texts:
I have a Sora 3500 set on my bike except for the shifters, which are Alivio ST-M310 and a 22.2mm flat bar.  Now I have a new bullhorn which I would like to install, but the old shifters don't fit, because the diameter of the bullhorn is 23.8mm.

I would like to have the brake and the shifter at the end of the bar, somting like this image. I thought that a bar-end indexed shifter and TT brake lever would fit quite well. I have a 2x8 gear system so, I think a Shimano Ultegra 6480 Triple 8sp Bar End Shifter would be perfect.

But I can't find a TT lever-like brake that has a mounting ring rather than plugging in to the end of the bar.

Is there a brake lever (for caliper brakes) I could look for so that both (brake & shifter) can be mounted at the bar-end?

UPDATE

After some search I found two solutions: one explained well here,
another solution is this, and here the brakes are Reverse Brake Lever.

Where can I found a reverse brake lever with clamp mount, and not internal handlebar wedge-sleeve mount?

I think, I found the answer, but can you correct me if I'm wrong?


texts: Old bike compatibility with direct train bike trainer?

texts: I'd like to get a direct train bike trainer (wahoo kickr) to exercise on. My current road bike is a Schwinn le Tour circa 1980, and does not have the 10 or 11 speed required to run on most direct train bike trainers. Would it be most cost effective to buy a new gear setup for this old bike (if it's even possible), or just to find a 10 speed on Craigslist? Thank you in advance ;)


texts: I am trying to decide between aero bikes from two different brands.  What are some of the things I should think about when comparing these two (or any other) aero bikes?


texts:
I'm currently repurposing an old frame and replacing the drivetrain. If possible I'd keep the old 7 speed drive train the bike had together in case I ever find a use for it. The chain is an HG40 quick-link. There's plenty of info online about joining chains with quick-links but little about breaking and reusing them.

Is there a trick to the quick link to separate the chain so it can be easily reused or do I just need to break it with a chain tool?

The install Tech Doc can be found here.


texts: Is the Park Tool Allen Wrench going to strip out bolts?

texts:
I am fed up with cheap allen keys.  I've bought a few from local hardware stores, but a 5mm is usually way off, and I end up rounding off the key, or the bolt.  I've thought about buying this parks allen key:

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Allen-Wrench-4-5mm/dp/B005R638TC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1423706361&sr=8-2&keywords=parks+allen+key

It has 5 star review from 5 customers at the moment, but I'm still wary.  Anyone have any experience with it?  Or is it just junk that they slapped a parks tool sticker on?

Also, if anyone has any advice on allen keys from their experience I'd love to hear.  Is it worth paying for Snap-on keys, or something similar?

I'd love to hear others have this problem too, and it's not just me that can't loosen or tighten a brake lever without rounding something off.


texts: Can disc brakes be considered safe for road group rides?

texts: I know aero bars are considered unsafe for peloton, does this extend to disc brakes whose rotors can be hot and sharp? I'm not talking about races, just casual training rides: is it reasonably safe for others in the group?


texts: What skills/drills should I learn to descend faster and more confidently? (for mountain biking)

texts:
I've ridden road and mountain bikes for years, and this is my first year riding as a part of a team (and actually doing races).  I've been stuck at nearly the same level of skill when descending and would like to improve.

Sure, there are some books I can read, but some are dated, and who has time to read a whole book?  (said only partially tongue in cheek)

Vague tips like, "ride with faster riders" are not needed - I ride with fast riders, and on the descents they're immediately gapping me at the first switchback.


texts:
I've not had a road bike since I was about 16 which is too many years ago to want to remember so forgive my ignorance.   I can remember that Cannondale were said to be good back in the day so I've bought one locally.  It was a fixer-upper so reasonably cheap.

I noticed having got it home that where the paint had chipped the colour underneath was a different colour. What's more it looks like a bit of surface rust.

Alarm bells are ringing and I'm wondering what I've bought.  I've spent hours trawling the web but failed.

This bike is said to be at least 20 years old. The bottom tube is tear-shaped and is slightly larger than the other tubes.

The other thing that makes this stand out for me is that the top tube has rolled at both ends slightly but 90 degrees from the other end. This means when you look at the bike from the side the top bar looks thinner, has a lower profile where it attaches to the head tube, whereas the opposite where it joins the seat post tube so from side on it looks wider, if that makes sense.

The serial number is S followed by about 7 or 8 digits and runs from back to front on the crank drive side. The forks are unusually straight too.

Can anybody put me out of my misery please?


texts: I noticed on the largest sprocket of my SRAM Red cassette, after every 8th tooth, the tooth is missing.  I looked at one on line and noticed the same thing.  What is the purpose of not including these three teeth on the sprocket?


texts: I guess this is probably the most stupid question asked on this community but I want to know about all the parts of a bike. I am a non-native English speaker and am finding it difficult to understand the question and answers here. Would you post a picture or some mnemonic device or anything you find valuable related to bike parts, so I could get the names of all the bike parts in my head permanently. Thank you.


texts: Can a XTR 2016 di2 bracket axle unit fit in XT 2016 rear derailleur?

texts: I have recently lost my bracket axle unit of my XT 2016 m8000 rear derailleur. My friend will be mailing me his XTR 2016 di2 bracket axle unit. Is it compatible/will it fit? I just wanted to know before i buy an after market bracket axle unit from(Goat Link by wolftooth components).


texts: Has anyone had experience with carbon fiber mountain bikes? I'm still skeptical as to how robust they are. Is it true that a scratch will make the frame useless? And Trek has this process called OCLV ... is that just hype or does their carbon layup process really have significant benefits?


texts: any gps improvement on smartphones with barometer?

texts:
I know that smartphones gps have problems with their accuracy, especially with altitude. But I heard that the Galaxy Nexus has a barometer that theoretically is used to improve the accuracy of the gps.

Anyone has used it to track any route? It can compare (in accuracy) to a mid-range bicycle gps device?


texts: Where can I get U.S. size 15B SPD clipless shoes?

texts: I want to get some large clipless shoes for an indoor stationary cycle at my gym, which I presume uses SPD. I wear a U.S. size 15B and it is difficult to find shoes that long, let alone with a narrow width? Shoes I could source in Toronto, Canada, would be best, but I can get them in the U.S. if I must.


texts: Does an SPD-SL AND SPD compatible pedal/shoe exist?

texts:
I am soon going to buy a pair of pedals (and new shoes of course) for my road bike (mostly used for commuting, and short-ish rides (40-50 miles/80Km).

Most important to me is being able to walk in my cycling shoes BUT ALSO, be able to cycle my bike without needing to wear my cycling shoes. (Ideally, both are equally as important...ideally.)

I am currently torn between a pair of SPD OR a pair of SPD-SL pedals, and then the required shoes.

Ideally I am looking for a pair of SPD-SL pedals, so I can ride my bike sometimes without my bike shoes without killing myself. Something like the Shimano PD-R540 SPD. [1]

They have a resonably large platform for the foot, which helps when wearing "normal" shoes.

Then I am also looking for a pair of SPD off-road shoes, something like the Shimano M076 MTB SPD Shoes.[2]

The reason I say these is they have some grip, and the cleat is slightly recessed, not the make/model.

So to my question. It can be asked in either of two ways:

Does an SPD/SPD-SL pedal exist?

OR

Does an SPD/SPD-SL shoe exist?

All advice welcome.

[1] http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/road/product.-code-PD-R540-L.-type-.pd_road.html

[2] http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31536


texts: 5 Month old bike, pedals and brake issue

texts:
got a Merida Matts 40-D bike in September/October, now I'm having some issues and need some help fixing them. Bearing in mind I've had this bike that long, I didn't start riding it until mid October and I stopped riding it between mid December and mid January.

Firstly when I first got the bike one pedal was ever so slightly stiffer than the other, I thought nothing of it but about 3 weeks ago the pedal became stiff, so I decided I would re-grease the pedal, did it all, seemed better and then the next day went stiff again. Re-greased it again, this time even freer than the one that is fine, day later it went stiff again. It's so stiff that unless you push on the pedal all the time it flips underfoot. Any ways to fix it without getting new pedals?

After my xmas holidays my brakes started to loudly squeal, so I bought the stuff to sand down my pads slightly and to bleed my brakes. I have just got around to bleeding them, they seemed much better to start with but now squeal again. What can I do to fix this?

My chain also seems to look odd, unlike any chain I've seen before, it seems as if the outer links are bent outwards slightly. I don't know if this is supposed to be like it?

I am thinking I should just try and send the bicycle back for a refund, I ride it every day for 5 minutes back and to University, I really didn't expect the bicycle I paid £250 for to have these issues so quick.


texts: Where should my sit bones rest on a leather hammock/sling saddle?

texts:
Where is the ideal / designed location for my sit bones to push on a leather sling/hammock style saddle?  (Relative positioning, that works for any saddle width)

While I'm riding on my leather saddle, I notice that my sit bones seem to press the saddle very close to the rear metal part of the saddle (i.e. near the rivets).  This metal bar with the rivets is U-shaped, with the tails curving forwards at each side.  Are my sit bones supposed to fit within the curve?  In front of it?

Referring to the grid below, my intuition is that I should get a wider saddle with a wider metal U such that my sit bones are in the relative locations of: center-of (C-D,2-3) and center-of (C-D,4-5).  Am I correct that the U should "cradle" my sit bones?

(Also, I notice most leather saddles use 6 rivets in the rear, so we can refer to them as rivet #1 through #6.)


texts:
I had a flat on the way to work today.  Not really earth shattering, it was about 5 miles in, only a short walk until the office, where I could fix it in comfort.

But walking the bike, I noticed an odd behaviour.  The flat was on the front wheel, and I noticed that once per revolution, the handlebars would turn slightly to the left.  Very consistent, just as the valve would get to the bottom of the wheel.

What would cause this?  Is it just the valve being slightly thicker than the (now deflated) tube, or did I somehow damage my rim in the short while between the puncture and me stopping the bike?


texts: Aluminum fork dropout potentially compromised - advice?

texts:
I hope y’all can give me some advice. I bought a bike, had it shipped, looks great except one thing — the fork was slightly damaged in shipping. It’s carbon but the aluminum part that attaches to the quick release is narrower on the right side. See pictures comparisons of the 2 below.

The leading edge of the Drive-side fork dropout is squashed back, the axle won't fit through the gap.

Bianchi Via Nirone 7 sora.

Bent dropout:

The other dropout which is fine:

The seller insisted on it being steel. The bike shop said carbon but the bottom is aluminum. Any advice would be helpful - is this severely unsafe? With how and where it’s damaged - is the fork totaled?


texts: Speed improvement from hybrid bike to road bike over 9km at 30 kmph?

texts:
What sort of speed improvement can I expect going from a $1000 hybrid bike (Merida Crossway Striker) to a $2000 road bike (Cannondale CAAD 10 - 105), all other things being equal?

Presently I can commute to work (9km) in 17-18 minutes. It's mostly flat on a dedicated cycle path.

I am hoping to shave maybe 30 seconds off my time. Is this a reasonable expectation?


texts:
I am having a new set of wheels built, and am trying to decide on whether to go with 6-bolt or centre-lock rotor interface.

What are the pros and cons of the two systems?


texts: Storing bicycle in a shed for the winter

texts:
I am living in Canada and it is the sad time of the year where I have to stop riding and store my bicycle for the winter. This summer I acquired a full carbon bike and I want to make sure it stays intact until the next summer.

Considering that the temperatures can drop to -30°C, is it bad if my bike is stored in a shed?


texts: Cassette compatability regarding Shimano 9 speed

texts: I have a Ultegra CS6700 9 speed rear deraileur that came on my bike.  Originally the gearing was 12-25, which I changed to 12-27.  I was wanting to know of that deraileur would work without a problem switching to a HG50 cassette.  The reason for doing so is because it offers a 9 speed 11-32 gearing.  I was wanting to get the bigger granny gear so I could more easily go up big hills.  Would this new cassette work with just swapping the cassette and adjusting the deraileur to accomodate the bigger gear (also changing the chain to have more length) with the older Ultegra deraileur or would it not shift because of the differences?


texts: I have an older Multisports EnduroCycle 550. The crank seems to be loose - the pedals wobble a bit side to side. How can I tighten that back up or do I need new parts?


texts: What tools do I need to disassemble and re-assemble an 80's road bicycle

texts:
I would like to do maintenance on my 1982 miyata 310 road bike myself.  What tools are necessary to take the entire bicycle apart, lube, and put it back together?

Here is what I have come up so far:

Bicycle stand
Hex wrench set
Chain breaker


texts:
As part of a bike fit I had done recently I had my well broken in Brooks Team Pro Classic pressure mapped (via the GebioMized system). (A pressure mapping creates a 2-dimensional mapping of the pressure exhibited across the saddle - useful for modifying fit). The results were quite astounding; an incredibly low pressure mapping, so low we were mostly at the limit of what could be detected by the system.

It was suggested doing some more testing and writing it up for publication (we had a long discussion of all the years of trial and errors I have done with Brooks) - which I am interested in doing.

My questions pertains to existing literature, some of which is not easily searchable through general internet searches.

Questions

Are there any published pressure mappings of leather saddles such as Brooks?
Is there any canonical sources out there for breaking in and setting up a leather saddle?

Most discussions appear to be opinion based short articles, forum discussions and other largely non-citable dialog.
Most also discuss a general trial-and-error approach with some anecdotal accounts, nothing measurable and repeatable.
As always Sheldon Brown has a nice summary, but I wouldn't consider it an in-depth guide.


texts: Is it more dangerous to use a bike lane or to ride in the road proper?

texts:
When I ride my bike, depending on which route I take, there are bike lanes and there are not - both routes take the same amount of time/distance, the only difference is the presence (or lack thereof) of bike lanes.

This article, in the New York Observer, and this one from the Law, Economics & Cycling blog highlight issues with bike lanes and indicate that dedicated bike lanes may be more dangerous than riding in the road. Is there any proof to this?


texts: Will a bike stand that holds one wheel damage my bike?

texts:
I have a similar bike stand to this at home:

I'm happy putting my wife's and my commuter in it but worried that it will damage the wheels of my XC bike if left in there for long periods. Can wheels get damaged if there is prolonged pressure on a group of spokes?


texts: Is the Power-Link designed for routine usage?

texts:
I have a Power-Link which i intended to use in emergencies (when the chain breaks and i'm far from home). Used it once, worked pretty well.

Now i wonder, what if i use it permanently with my chain? My idea is that it might be convenient to quickly remove the chain, stuff it into a bowl of acetone/oil/whatever, and easily install it back onto the bike.

But will the Power-Link wear out quickly (e.g. quicker than the other "links" of the chain)? I am not sure whether it was intended to be used all the time or just for emergencies.


texts: Difficulties changing from a folding bike to a full sized MTB - why?

texts:
I presently ride a Dahon folding bike.  Today I tried to ride a mountain bike, and it felt unstable.  I felt unsure of myself so I only rode for a moment because I felt uncomfortable.

It was very heavy to ride, and required a lot of strength vs my folding bike.

It was difficult to start off, and felt shaky.

Will I get used to it?   What can I do to get comfortable on this bike?


texts: Little bit of water under plastic cover on my shimano shifters

texts:
I've had my bike for a month or so and just gave it a clean. There is now a little bit of water trapped under the shimano shifters clear plastic covers. Is this a problem? Will it disperse eventually? Was going to ping off the covers but was not sure if they would go back on easily or the correct way to get them off.

Any help appreciated, know very little about bike maintenance!


texts: How has hardtail MTB geometry changed in the past 10 years?

texts: So I have been sitting on my 2005 Specialized Rockhopper because it is such a good fit (23" bike I'm 6'6") however I probably haven't ridden it in 5 years as it needs a new front fork. I'm just wondering, is it worth keeping and replacing the fork or will I get left in the dust every ride or laughed out of town?


texts: Name for bracket used for holding shift cables in place on down tube

texts:
I've got a '70s-era Motobécane† road bike which doesn't have any actual eyelets brazed on for guiding shift cables but instead has a strange chromed "bracket" which attaches onto the down tube with a screw and washer which has two small guides for keeping the shift cables in place (highlighted in green):

What on Earth is this thing called? — I've never seen something like this before.

† Actually, it's a Motoconfort, but I still haven't been able to discern any real differences between the two marques despite trying my best to do so.


texts:
I'm a beginner and I'm working on a bike. I'm trying to fix the shifting gears. I'm holding the shifter cable where it comes out of the housing by the front derailleur and I feel no change in tension from gears 3-5. At 1 and 2 I do feel a change and it is difficult to shift to those positions.  It's a shimano grip shifter. I'm following Park Tools "How to adjust a derailleur" but am hitting a problem shifting from 5 to 4. It doesn't shift and no amount of rotations of the barrel adjuster seems to resolve. I just noticed that if I hold the brake cable where it comes out of the shift I do feel the tension change.

Is this a problem in the grip shifter? It seems backwards, shouldn't 4-5 be difficult to shift, as that should tighten the shift cable? I did take the shifter off to inspect so maybe I didn't put it back on right. It seems kind of dummy proof as I only saw one way to put it back together.

I've added a pic of the inside of the grip shifter. Here is another noob question. There are only 3 teeth, how do three teeth make for five gears?

Thanks for any help!


texts:
Or a horse, of course.  The bike has to be rideable, and needs to return to normal afterwards.

Most years my city has what they call a "carnivelo", a family ride in which bikes, riders, trailers, passengers etc are encouraged to be in fancy dress and ride a car-free route.  There are photos online and videos of previous years on YouTube. Some years have more fancy dress than others.

This year the theme is "enchanted forest" so I thought a unicorn with 2 riders (my daughter fits better on her bike seat than in the trailer) would be suitable. We would of course be in fancy dresss ourselves. A "horse" could also pull a carriage based on the frame of the trailer with a new cover.

While the event itself is traffic-free, we'd have to get there somehow, which would presumably involve riding in traffic.


texts: What should I look for in a cycling undershirt for warm weather?

texts: Road season is about to start here and I think that it is time I stopped using my cotton singlets as an undershirt and start using something more specific for cycling (and racing in particular).  What is the best material for me to get?


texts: Do quick release wheels require certain design in the fork?

texts:
Basically, can a older (early 90's) American/SAE measured non-suspension fork take a quick release wheel?

I'm looking to rebuild/restore my old Huffy Fire Mountain MTB made around 1990*.  It has a non-suspension fork with a bolt on wheel.  I believe that the front hub is a Wald, but I would have to look again.  However, I'm going to replace the old steel wheels with some "good enough" aluminum ones with quick release axles from my LBS.  I'm asking can my current fork take the new wheel or is there other considerations I need to make?

Yes, it is a BSO but it is my buddy and needs some love.  Be nice for a spare as well.


texts:
When turning sharp at high speed, does it make sense to shift the weight to reduce risk of skidding?

I do not see the point of doing so. Both wheels are leaned at the same angle against the ground no matter how the weight is distributed. Whether the wheel starts to skid depends only on tire/road properties and on this angle, not on the force acting along. But a friend of mine, who is experienced more than me in cycling (and less than me in elementary physics) insists that it's better to "balance the weight" by loading the front wheel more.

Is there any argument for the latter statement, assuming identical front and rear tires?


texts: Rear derailleur doesn't go to smallest cog

texts:
I'm sure it is a simple fix to this, but please bear with me.
I have recently swapped my rear wheel on my bike (with an identical one, keeping the same cassette). Upon putting it back in, I noticed gears were not changing properly (chain was skipping or it wasn't moving smoothly to the next cog when changing gears).
I played a bit with the barrel adjuster, but before I managed to fix the problem I noticed that a. I could rotate the barrel adjuster infinitely in both directions and nothing was really "moving" and b. the chain wasn't going on the smallest cog anymore, no matter on which chain ring I was.
My questions would be:

Is it normal that gears need adjustments if I change a wheel with another identical one?
How can I fix the rear derailleur so that the chain gets on the smallest cog, and also fix the original problem of non-smooth gear changing?

Also, the barrel adjuster seems to be formed out of two components, each of them rotating independently (with the larger one moving vertically as well, with the help of a spring). Would appreciate some detailing of how this actually works. I have attached a few pictures.
I am talking about an Ultegra R8000 SS rear derailleur.


texts:
I need to move two bicycles from work to home. The route is 5 miles long and car free. My only means of transport is to ride one of the bicycles so my question is this: What is the safest way to get both bikes from work to home in one journey? (without some kind of trailer)

The bikes are a Carrera Virtuoso and a Scott Yecora (dropped handlebars)


texts: Finding the right length of chain lock for my road bike

texts:
I am trying to buy a chain lock as I would be leaving my cycle in quite a busy area. I am not sure what length of chain lock I will need if I wanted to secure my bike using a chain that runs through both the wheels and the frame.

The 90cm Kryptonite looks two small to run through two wheels,
I am not sure if I need two 1m chain locks or if I could do with one 1.5m chain lock

I looked at the pragmasis protector 16mm chain lock with padlock. Anyone have any advice specifically on what length of chain lock i will need or if it is better to get two short chain locks both for the front and the back wheels


texts: How differently will two bikes handle that have 1 degree difference in their head tube angle?

texts:
I am looking to buy a new mountain bike and comparing two models with different head tube angles.  How big of difference does 1 degree of slackness make?  Would an intermediate rider be able to feel the difference?

Both bikes appear to be fairly slack.

The first bike has a 67 degree headtube angle.
The second bike has a 68 degree headtube angle.


texts: How can I prepare for cycling 60 km, before getting the bike?

texts:
Help me win free ice-cream!
I happen to be someone who's yet to start cycling "properly" (the highest I've ridden yet is about 15 kilometres in a session, on a bike that most people here would find unimaginably uncomfortable).
Now, a friend of mine has challenged me to go 60 kilometres on a bike within 10 days from the day I get it, which would be at least a fortnight from now, I believe. It's going to be a cheap hybrid bike (a maximum of 15000 INR or 200 USD). If I'm actually able to do that, he'd get free ice-cream for 100 days!
I'd first like to ask for the kind of saddle I should get. I've read about saddles depending on the distance between sit-bones, but to be honest, I don't think I'd get any saddle around here (India) that, if it says it's 155mm wide, it'd actually be. So is there anything such as "too wide" a saddle? Is just buying a saddle that's "wide" or "widest available" the safe bet?
Now, coming to my own fitness. I'm able to walk easily for about 10 kilometres without feeling a thing, even while wearing slippers or flip-flops (and I mean i feel just as "fresh" as when I'd started). I'm able to do at least (because that's the much I've done as a part of my usual workouts) 30 lunges followed by 30 squats back to back (and vice versa). In a whole workout though, I'm able to do 200 of each
Coming to the core and upper-body, I'm able to perform 4 sets of 10-second push-up hold followed by 10 push-ups followed by 10 seconds pushup hold with up to 30 seconds of rest in between sets. (if you think it's easy, give it a try!). I don't know how or why, but I'm able to do 26-27 push-ups at a go otherwise. In a whole workout, I can manage to pull off about 250 of them. I'm also currently capable of holding a three and a half minute elbow plank.
Are there any exercises that I can do /areas that I need improvement in, to be able to get the free ice cream?


texts: Refurbishing mountain bike - left standing for couple of years

texts:
I've a Marin Rocky Ridge (2007) that I'd like to give a bit of an overhaul/refurbish as it's been left standing for two years or so. I'm just looking to know where would be common areas that would have degraded over time? Would brake fluid etc. need replacing, as well as bearings needing cleaned/ regreased?

This is a link to the bike spec (may need to select "Show detailed spec") 2007 Marin Rocky Ridge Spec


texts: Can I use tubeless tires on Araya DM-27.5 Black 32 hole Rims?

texts:
Rookie question, apologies in advance.

I have a Saracen Mantra hardtail with Araya DM-27.5 Black 32 hole Rims. I currently have Schwalbe Rapid Rob tires on both front and back. The tires are very bad and I am constantly getting punctures.

I'm looking at upgrading the tires to a combination of Schwalbe Hans Dampf / Magic Mary. My question is - Should I upgrade to tubeless tires and if so is it possible with my current rims?

Note - Currently hitting singletracks, looking to take on some more advanced downhill tracks and bike parks. Currently cant afford a full sus bike so making the most of the hardtail.

Any advice is helpful as my knowledge of bikes is still improving.

Thanks in advance.


texts: How important is centring dual-pivot brakes?

texts:
My road bike has Shimano dual-pivot caliper brakes like these.

Whenever I remove or refit the mudguards, or even sometimes just getting the wheel out, they seem to go slightly off-centre, by which I mean rotated around the mounting.

The effect of this is that, when the brakes are applied one pad contacts the rim before the other. Looking carefully the wheel also moves a little to the left or right as one pad pushes it to the side.

I try to rotate the brakes so that both pads contact the rim at the same time to minimise this movement, but as the act of tightening the mounting screw also rotates the brakes slightly, this is tricky.

So the question is - does it matter much if one pad makes contact slightly before the other? What are the likely effects of it doing so?


texts: Unable To Adjust Mechanical Disc Brakes Properly

texts:
I have a very puzzling problem with the front mechanical disc brakes on a big-box retailer mountain bike. Nothing fancy, and it used to work well for over a year but since I last dismantled it to clean it and eliminate squeal it's never quite worked properly.

Problem seems to be too much lever travel; when pulled tight I can get effective braking but released fully the brakes still stick. Letting out a bit more cable from the clamp will allow the wheel to spin freely on release but the brakes are almost useless even at max.

I've tried tightening and loosening the bolt in the caliper center but this doesn't seem to change anything (what does it do anyway?). Can someone advise how I can reduce the "range" of mechanical disk brakes or otherwise resolve this issue?


texts: Minimum mountain groupset hard enough to resist abuse

texts:
I'm looking to upgrade my mountain bike and I would like to get something better than I have, if justified. I've never ridden any groupset better than alivio/deore, which work ok for me and have tolerated some abuse. I'm riding harder these days and I would like to know if a better groupset would be more durable. I'm not very concerned with the "bling" factor or the weight, just something that will stand some "serious" trail. Any thoughts? Please feel free to elaborate on the brand or isolated parts if you want.

Edit: I would like to make the question more specific, because my intention is not to start a discussion about Shimano or SRAM. I assume that both brands are ok. Let's see: I want the bike to do cross country but not downhill. When I say that I ride "harder" I mean that I've gone from following a trail to now jump, go over rocks, some mud, a bit of water, etc ... That has made my drivetrain to get out of tune and drop the chain frequently, even I if adjust it before every ride. I am discarding here my shifting technique as a source of problems because I know how to shift correctly. I thus want to know at which level of the groupset hierarchies (no matter if it is Shimano or SRAM) this is less frequent. That is, that you adjust the gears and they stay adjusted for more than a ride even after some abuse. If I am going to need to adjust the gears every time no matter if the group is a XTR or a Acera, well, then I will rather save my money. But if XTR is stronger and stays tuned for more time, then I don't mind paying for the quality. I would like to hear from experienced riders if they noticed (or didn't) a great improvement in reliability (not weight or coolness-factor) when they bought a more expensive groupset. I hope that the question is clearer now.

Thanks!


texts:
Is this possible? The goal is to do this in 3 days - ride 250km one day, then take one day off, and ride 250km again the next day, all on a road bike, with about 2500m of total elevation gain, in 30C temperature, on a rented road bike (not saving money here).

Maximum distance I've done the last season was 200km on a trekking bike in one day, and that was after 1-2 months of training. 100km was my record on a road bike.

There's winter in my country, so I'll be able to ride hopefully in March, which means 2-3 months in a gym/running/swimming, and then just about 2 months of actual riding.


texts: Cheap bike tools or can I just use generic hardware store tools instead?

texts:
I want to maintain my bike. There a number of tools which are very specific, which also cost a lot of money. I have an old road bike which uses a freewheel. The freewheel remover cost me something like 7$! This really seems overpriced.

It would be nice if we had some sort of tool translation thread. Like, "these are the generic tools you would use in place of each of these specific bike tools."

Personally, I'm looking for replacements for the following:

The tools used to remove the bottom bracket.
The cone wrench, or the necessary tools to clean the hubs. By the way, do they have adjustable versions of the cone wrench?
The necessary tools for taking apart the headset. I've never done this. Maybe it can be done with generic parts?
chaintool?
anything else?

Maybe you really do need the bike specific tools for some of these. Oh well :(.


texts: 2014 RockShox Pike RC oil recommendation

texts:
I'm getting a lot of conflicting information regarding the volume of oil for the lowers on this 2014 RockShox Pike RC w/ charger damper. Can anyone confirm the correct quantity of 0W-30? Is there a safer side to choose?

Service manual:

Recommends - Non-Drive Side 15 mL and Drive Side 5 mL

Nato Youtube walkthrough:

Recommends - 10cc or ml in both the right and left

LBS/Sram Dealer:

Recommends - 5cc or ml in both the right and left


texts: Replaced my rim with a wider one - will my tire still fit?

texts:
I was running Shimano RS on my road bike (not sure the width) and switched to Bontrager Paradigm Comp. A sticker says 622x19 - I'm guessing 19 is the rim width. It's definitely wider than my old wheel. The tire is 25 mm.

On the old wheel, I had zero flats in over 3500 km - same tire and tube models. Since the replacement, I had two flats in about 100 km travelled. After the first one, I figured I must have pinched it, but I was super careful with the replacement and it happened again.

If it matters, I'm quite a heavy rider. My guess is that there is just a risk of a pinch when I hit a bump.

I'm wondering if my tire is just too narrow for the new rim? I can probably still return the wheel (although I'm happy with it other than the flats) - or should I just swap my tire for a 28 mm one?


texts:
I am in constant debate with my colleague regarding the use of aero tt/triathlon wheels (82/101) for normal/general road use (fear of buckling etc?). I was wondering what peoples thoughts were on this?

any thoughts to help me settle this would be appreciated!

thanks


texts: I am going to buy a Shimano XT rear derailleur, but currently I am using Shimano Alivio M4000 shifter. I would like to know if these two components are compatible?


texts:
Question for rebicycling a Motobecane Sprint Blue.  I have a desire to rebicycle this Motobecane Sprint into a semi retro style with the orginal theme.  In short i would like to purchase the same Motobecane headset, use the Sakae Alloy grill stem, Rigid Chrome 27x1 ¼ rim, but with a single hub.  I want to use wood handle bars and a few brooks accents such a pedal boot with leather straps and a B17 saddle.

How do I identify which headset will fit this Motobecane (1970s) frame? Will the Weinmann 730 side pull fit a 700C if I shouldn’t use 27x1 ¼? Will I have room for fenders (wooden) on both the front (¼ diameter) and rear (½ diameter)?

Is the diameter of the seat post 25.4 x 200 an indicator of the size for the Sakae Alloy Stem and the type of bottom bracket.  I know the rear gap for tire is 126mm.

I am ordering this item from eBay so i would like to get as much before it arrives to that I don’t have to wait for pieces.

Thanks for the assistance.


texts:
I have seen quiet a few road bike with a Z-shape seat stay until now, e.g. specialized Roubaix

Does it serve any purpose? What's the advantage of this design in comparison to a straight-bar seat stay?


texts:
This is my bicycle.
I mounted a new Thompson 124mm bottom bracket (the narrowest of this kind I could find) and a new single-ring sqaure-tapered crankset.
When set as in the pictures, there is a thread sticking out on the left side, the whole thing is visibly asymmetrical and yet the chainline is still offset by about 5mm (chainring should be even closer to the frame).
I can't push the crank any further onto the spindle.
Did I choose the right bottom bracket and crankset for my bike or should I replace some of those parts? Is it possible to make something sensible out of it?
Links to the parts I bought (website is in polish):
bottom bracket
crankset
If you need more clarification from my side feel free to leave a comment.


texts: Snapped powerlink, new powerlink or new chain?

texts: If your chain snaps at the powerlink, do you need to replace just the powerlink? Or is the entire chain comprised?


texts: One extra position on front derailleur besides trim

texts:
After I changed shift cables, I have 4 positions on my front derailleur. WTF?

I have a double chainring. I have a trim position as well, but after shifting to the big chainring, I can still move the STI lever a tiny amount. If I do so, the derailleur will click into a 4th position and the derailleur moves out a tiny amount. From there I can downshift back to the 3rd position.

This only appeared after I changed gear cables and fiddled around with the limit screw. What should I do?


texts: Are high racers safer due to enhanced visibility compared to low racers or classic recumbents?

texts: Naively, I would expect that a high racer is safer in traffic than a low racer.  With the rider higher up, she or he should be more visible compared to being closer to the ground.  Considering that safety in traffic is the main reason holding me off from riding a recumbent, I wonder: is there evidence that a high racer is safer than a low racer, considering visibility in traffic?


texts: The tire got flat the third day of changing it

texts: I'm new to bikes. I got a used bike that had all the tires and tubes broken so I had to change them all. I changed the tires and the tubes completely two days ago, then I went cycling the next days. Today I went to ride the bike to find out that the front tire is flat (not completely flat, since the tube has a lot of air). Is it just a bad luck? Or does that mean I have bad quality tires or tubes? Or is it just a matter of refilling the tube with air again? Or that I didn't close the valve of the tube correctly? I'm really surprised for this!


texts: What are the technical differences between a bike for off-road touring and a mountain bike?

texts: There are a lot of adventure touring bikes, or bikes designed for bikepacking, off-road touring and the like. But what is the difference between one of these and a standard mountain bike.  E.g. what is the difference between the Salsa Fargo frame and something like the Kona Explosif. Or what is the difference between the Thorn Nomad or Raven and an Orange P7. I understand that the touring frames are more likely to have rack eyelets, but what are the other differences in design?


texts: Size 29×1.9/2.125 inner tube into my 700×40

texts: I just put a size 29×1.9 inner tube into my 700x40 hybrid tyre. Is it safe to use? Thank you


texts: What alters the efficiency of (cantilever) brakes?

texts:
I have installed on my bike brand new cantilever brakes (Shimano CX-70).

On the rear, the braking is justas efficient as I would have expected it to be.

But on the front, it feels quite weak. Front braking is usually more efficient that rear but in my case it is not. Actually, stopping by using only the front brake would take very long. It is just powerful enough to maintain a low speed in downhills or increase the braking power of the rear (I get a little more power when squeezing the levers from the drops position).

But obviously the rear braking can only be as much efficient as the rear braking can get, with the limitation of all the weight and traction concentrated on the front that should make it the most efficient brake.

Obviously I checked the installation of my brake:

The pads are in perfect condition
They get in contact with the rim about 1-2 mm from the very top of the rim (and the beginning of the tire)
they have a < 2 mm clearance between rim and pad and that distance is the same on both sides
I installed properly a cable stop (http://www.aspirevelotech.com/images/Paul%20Components/041-FunkyMonkeyFrontCableHanger-Black.jpg)
the cable condition is very good, as is the housing and it is properly lubricated

What else could it be?

For the record, the rims are also in very good condition and I do know that the brakes are not exactly the same model on the front and the rear and yes I have purchased the right versions and yes the front is installed in the front and the rear on the rear.

I mean, I could understand that the brakes are crap, but in that case a similar model would not be working properly on the rear. So even if the whole mechanism were just exactly operating the same as in the rear, I would get at least as much and probably even way more efficiency on the front.

I just don't understand.


texts:
I started riding in the eighties back when derailleur chains didn't come with quick link connectors (master links).  Since that changed I've been using my chain breaker to get new chains to the correct length and then use the quick link to connect it.
I have a SRAM 8 speed chain that's pretty new that I need to remove and reinstall on the bike.  I don't know if disconnecting and reconnecting the quick link is a good idea.  Any reason I can't do things the way I did back in the eighties and nineties?  Have modern chains changed?


texts: Why don't Tour de France riders always ride their TT bikes?

texts:
When the tour riders are doing time trials, they ride their super aerodynamic, aggressively positioned bikes for maximum efficiency.

However, on normal stages, there are many cyclists who could also benefit from the greater aerodynamic efficiency. Any riders at the front of the peleton or any cyclists on the breakaway would gain a great deal from having their TT bikes.

I can't even think of any downsides, given that with electronic gears they can have duplicate shifter buttons on the aero bars and the bullhorns.

Why don't they use their TT bikes all the time?


texts: Choosing a tool to take off the front cassette

texts:
My bicycle is Merida Crossway MD 40. It uses Shimano Altus derailleurs. The front cassette looks like this:

I measured the central circular element, that must be holding the whole construction. It looks like this:

What instrument should I buy to disassemble the front cassette from the bicycle? Does this ebay item fit?


texts:
This question is one that I'm sure has been beat to death, but I am new to bike riding. Ideally I would have bought the bike at a local bike shop and been fit for the perfect bike. However, the prices at the local shops where I live are pretty steep. So this is my predicament.
I am approx. 5'6" to 5'7" (Please resist the urge. I know I'm a manlet.)
My inseam is roughly 29.5".
The frame size of the bike I ordered is 50cm and the sizing chart is below.

Did I get the right size?


texts: Swapping cranks, but the new crank is wider, how do I compensate for this?

texts:
I was swapping the cranks and bottom bracket on my karate monkey from a Truvative stylo crankset (Mountain Double, GXP bottom bracket) to a Race Face Evolution DH (Mountain Triple, Race Face bottom bracket, It's Shimano Hollowtech II compatible I think).

However, the width (Q-factor?) of the Race Face triple crankset is wider than the Truvative Stylo.  If I install it and tighten the bolt, it looks to be 5mm+ of exposed space on the crank spindle and the crank arms can slide side to side through the bottom bracket since the spindle is so long.  I'm pretty sure my BB shell is 73mm (according to surly).

What do I need to do to compensate for this space?  Spacers between BB Shell and BB Cup? How many spacers will I need, and of what size? Is there some common spec listed for the cranks that I should have been able to tell this from the start?


texts: Is it possible to measure your sit bones at home?

texts:
Some bike shops have gel pads that you sit on to measure the distance between your sit bones. Is it possible to take this measurement on your own at home, or does this really require special-purpose equipment?

[Related question: Should I use a narrower saddle on a road bike than I would on my hybrid commuter?]


texts:
A bike shop employee used a tool he said would check the wear on the chain, and said that it should be changed.

He said it took a measurement that meant the chain had expanded, but it is still hard for me understand why I should change the chain.

He said that the reason was that the expanded chain links will cause the chain rings to wear down.

That is one argument and I have no experience with it, to know if it is true.

But are there more reasons? How do I know when the chain should be changed?

My first thought is to use it until it breaks, but it probably is not the wisest option.


texts: Increasing the size of tyres on a hybrid

texts:
We are planning on doing some mountain biking in a few weeks time and we'd like to get some wider tyres for my wife's hybrid. I know there are similar questions and answers out there on this topic, but I need some specific help to make sure I buy the right tyres.

The bike is a Ladies Scott Sportster 50 2015, the best website I could find with a fairly accurate spec is here

It's currently got Kenda K-180 700 x 38c / 30TPI tyres on it, which are fairly good all rounders and capable of running on clean forest paths but I don't think they would handle anything heavier.

It's got disk brakes so there isn't a clearance issue there, but I have noticed the frame is generally narrower than true MTBs, here are some photos i took of it.

Has anyone put larger, knobblier tyres on this kind of hybrid? whats the largest I can get away with? - I'm also slightly confused by all the tyre sizing, I'm sure someone told me this is a 27.5" tyre, but 700 seems to mean 29" on a lot of websites.

Any advice is very much appreciated, Thanks.


texts:
I have two winter packs on for if I will be away from pay phones and taxis and another for when I will be close to home and telephones:

Close to home pack

money for calling a cab
lights in case it gets dark
extra tube and pump (although I am considering removing this)

Far from home pack

Close to home pack plus:

Pannier to carry extra gear
Extra clothing including:

Extra gloves
Warmer/cooler pair of long underwear
Extra sweater

Thermos full of hot/warm water
Piece of fruit and an energy bar
Tool kit (Although maybe it is too cold to use these outside)

tube and pump
zip ties
chain tool
small vice grips
allen keys

What else do you carry in your winter pack?


texts:
Some time ago I noticed a clicking noise somewhere in headset area. Noise appears under pressure, also it clicks when I tightening the headset. First thought was that problem is with headset bearings, because steering was like "indexed" in center.

So first what I did - replaced bearings and greased everything. Indexed steering had gone. But clicking noise remained. Yesterday I removed mudguard to check fork for the cracks and found this small hole where fork meets steerer tube. Can it be source for clicking noise? Is it dangerous to ride with it?


texts: What air attachment screws onto a Presta valve with the core removed? High volume for seating bead?

texts:
I have presta valves on two of my bikes.  I have a presta floor pump.  I have an air compressor.  I have a schrader adapter.  I have a blowgun and a tire inflator for my compressor.  I can attach the blowgun and the tire inflator to the presta valve using the schrader adapter.

What I want to know is what kind of attachment do I need to screw my air compressor on to the presta valve after the core is removed?  The schrader adapter screws onto the valve core, so without the valve core, none of my attachments fit.  What do I need?

This post indicates that people remove the valve core to get a high volume of air into the tire (which I want to do to seat my tubeless bead), but nowhere can I find exactly how to attach my air to the valve without the core installed.

The only things I can find in videos that actually claim to do this are the Park Tool INF-2 Inflator and the Silca Hiro Locking Chuck, which exceed $150 CAD ($115 USD) and $90 CAD ($65 USD), respectively.

Please help, I've wasted hours trying to get a solid answer to this question.


texts: Rear Derailleur - getting stuck in largest rear cog

texts:
Bike is only about 4 months old. I was indexing my gears last night, and the rear mech cage is getting stuck when shifting from largest cog to second largest cog. If I shift to the third largest cog, it will pull it down. Shifting from second largest to largest works fine.

I've played around with the cable tension, etc.

I tried pushing it inwards without the cable attached and the same still happens but it eventually pulled its self back in.

Any ideas?


texts:
I'm newbie.

I have bullhorns with two TT levers.
For safety, I'm considering installing cross lever(s).

I'd like to install only the rear-wheel cross lever since:

Setup will be less clumsy
When my hands are on the handlebar tops, I probably won't be at high speed, as when I'm on the tips of the bullhorns.

What do you think?


texts: What would I search for to find bike hubs that attach on only one side like found on tadpole recumbent

texts: What is the name of the hubs used on recumbent tadpole trikes. Those tricycles that have two front wheels and a conventional rear wheel


texts: Ultimate way to communicate while riding, an offline walkie talkie app?

texts:
I find it super strange that there is no popular offline walkie talkie app for mobile devices. It could be really handy when you are biking with someone for a long distance! You could talk with your friends all the way without any problem. And the best part is that it is free because you will use local network Wifi, or bluetooth.

I have been searching for quite some time and the only app I found was Intercom. It does exactly what I need, provides an easy way to communicate without an internet. But the problem is that it is super glitchy! It can just stop receiving and transferring voice. If you use headset which could be really cool when it is loud on the road, like it usually is, it just does not use headsets. And so on. Very bad...

So the question remains! How to communicate with friends when you are on a ride?


texts: How does a double-headed bicycle pump work

texts:
I have a pump with a presta fitting on one side and a schrader fitting on the other side. If I leave the pump unattached to anything and work the handle, air squirts out both orifices. But if I put my thumb gently over either hole, the pump pressurizes on the side closed by my thumb and no longer squirts out the still-open side. How does this work?

Note 1: This is a double sided head on a stand pump. There is a selection lever but the effect is there without pushing the lever to either side.

Note 2: There is no need to push a valve into the pump head to see the effect. Blocking a hole by putting a flat cover gently over its outer surface is sufficient.

Note 3: I first noticed this effect when pumping a completely empty tube (outside of a tyre) up from flat. With the valve firmly in the nozzle, and the lever on the correct side, the air insisted on rushing out the wrong (open) side of the pump head. Only when I pressed the tyre rubber almost flat against the inside of the valve, did it build up pressure on the 'right' side and allowed a little air into the tube. That was then sufficient to pressurize the valve so it then pumped all the air out the 'right' side on subsequent strokes.


texts: new freehub body seems too tight after installation

texts: Is it normal for a new freehub body to feel tight.  I changed a freehub body on a Velocity hub and it does not spin as freely as I am accustom to seeing on other hubs (and the original Velocity hub).


texts: Can I use my Chariot (now Thule) child carrier hitch on my Juiced Crosscurrent S?

texts:
I recently bought a used Chariot Cougar 1 child bike trailer / carrier from Craigslist. This same trailer design is now under the brand "Thule." It works great, and the included hitch fits on my Gravity Comp 20, my partner's Gravity Comp 30, and my partner's Santa Cruz mountain bike (converted to an e-bike). However, my Juiced Crosscurrent S rear axle isn't compatible with the hitch. (It also does not fit either of our Jamis Dragonslayer mountain bikes.) I want to do my share of daycare drop-offs but with steep hills in San Francisco, I'm struggling.
Can anyone help me troubleshoot either an adaptor or an alternate hitch design to let me use my Chariot (now Thule) hitch on my Juiced e-bike?
Juiced Crosscurrent S rear axle:
[
Juiced bike: https://www.juicedbikes.com/products/crosscurrent-s2
Hitch for bike trailer: Thule Model #     40191109

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Thule/50103033.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAiAxp-ABhALEiwAXm6IyUcJJB4yO5G6W6UZIJqQSP5o58DL5ar1cp_1YXNxylANcHVbJIBooBoCySMQAvD_BwE

Is there any possibility the following options would work?
https://www.thule.com/en-us/accessories/thule-thru-axle-maxle-m12-x-175-_-20100799

https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Child-Carrier-ezHitch-Release/dp/B00FY2OJTM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=thule+hitch+carrier&qid=1611192551&sr=8-5


texts:
I'm considering to replace my bottom bracket. My current one is a cheap 68x115mm squared. As I'm obsessed by bike weight, there is a titanium product I'd really love to install. However, the closest available sizes are 113 and 119mm. My chainring is already close to the frame, and I'm also considering to install an oval (so sometimes larger) chainring, so I cannot install the 113mm.

So, if I install the 119mm, this will theoretically make a chainline difference of 2mm. Is this acceptable?

My transmission is 1x10. I do most of my riding on the high speeds (small sprockets), which is great for the case here (chainline closer to these sprockets). Still, I need all the 10 speeds to work ;)


texts:
You can get dirt cheap bicycle patches from ebay, 48 patches for less than 1£.

How do they compare to patches from a well known brand such as TipTop or Park?

My question is only for patches that requires glue.


texts: Rule of thumb: how far before changing my chain to prevent cassette wear

texts:
On my old commuting bike every 12 to 18 months I would have my chain replaced (I cycle about 100 km per week). As the chain wear would also wear the cassette I would have that changed at the same time.

My new commuting bike has a Shimano Ultegra groupset, and it's a bit too expensive for me to change the cassette regularly.

Is there a good heuristic for how often to change one's chain, in terms of distance cycled, in order to avoid undue cassette wear?


texts: Big tires are rubbing in certain conditions so how can I fix my rear wheel play issues?

texts:
I have a 2007 Tarmac Expert Double with a
Mavic Kysrium Equipe rim spoked to a Mavic Kysrium Equipe, 24 hole, Mavic QR rear hub.

I recently upgraded to 28mm tires from 25mm and I had the rear wheel recently trued so rolls smoothly and clears all the stays.

However, when I climb (out of seat) or make sharp turns, the tire rubs on the sides of the seat stay.

When I press on my rear wheel to the left or right, it gives enough to rub against the brake pad as well as the sides of the seat stay. If I loosen the brakes the tire rubs a bit more on the right side than the left.

Gooling around shows that my hub might be going bad given that I have put about 5-7k miles on the bike.

Is this repairable? Does it make sense to buy a new wheel? Can I just replace the hub with a PowerTap and new spokes? How dangerous is it to ride with so much play with the wheel.


texts: Major differences between Hardtail and Full Suspension mtn bikes

texts: I'm curious as to the big differences in the feel and ride of a hardtail vs a full suspension mountain bike. Also, which types of riding/trails are each better suited for?


texts: Mongoose Right Bike Gears shifting up magically

texts: On the right, or back gears of my mongoose bicycle, the gears are not clicking as they should on the right side. Its stuck in 6th or 7th gear and it has a grip-shift that works fine on the left side. When I try to shift down I can hold it down and it will stay in gear but when I let go it flies back up to 6th gear. How can I fix this?


texts: Why is it common for cheap bikes to have the frame sawn in half below the saddle?

texts:
These days cheap bikes often seem to come with the frame sawn in half below the saddle.

What does the manufacturer gain from this design, and why is it associated mostly with cheap, low quality bikes?

What disadvantages are there to the bike rider? I assume that it's not a great feature since quality bike makers don't seem to opt for this design.


texts: Would a Portland Design Works 700 x 37 fender fit a 700 x 32c tyre?

texts:
The website clearly says:

  The Road Plus Size Full Metal Fenders will fit road bikes with 700x30 tires maximum.

However, my experience with another mudguard brand (not sure anymore, I think SKS) was that the specifications were conservative and I could fit slightly larger tyres without an issue.

Does anybody know if PDW Full Metal Fenders 700 x 37 would fit a 700 x 32c tyre (on a Merida Speeder 200, if that matters)?

I don't have a bike shop nearby that sells these, so I can't go and check myself unfortunately.


texts:
If rear tire is off the ground, the wheel will spin when pedaled.

When wheel is on the ground the pedals will move the chain in any gear but will not move the rear wheel.  The chain is not losing contact with any sprocket cogs.

Why doesn't the rear wheel turn?


texts: Saddle Wash and take care and Maintenance

texts:
Can I wash saddle with soapy water? How can I take care of my saddle?

My saddle is the GT MTB Saddle, which is made from synthetic materials.


texts: Can I convert the brakes from rim to disc

texts: I have a 1990s vertik 2 it's the mountain bike one and I am wondering if I could convert the rim brakes to disc brakes if so what are good budget options


texts: Quick - Maybe Question on changing gears

texts:
Not looking for a overly technical answer here just a very simplistic one I quess.. When switching gears is it best to try and keep both front and rear gears either high or low (Depending) I mean we wouldn't want say front low and rear high or other way around would we ?

Thanks


texts: Tektro Novela MD-M311 mechanical disc brake replacement

texts: I have bought an electric mountain bike with Tektro Novela MD-M311 mechanical disc brakes and love the bike; however I find the brakes squeal quite badly, and I am looking at replacing the rotors and calipers only with another mechanical disc brake. Can anyone suggest a better mechanical disc brake available?  I can't switch to hydraulic as the handles have electronic switches in them.


texts: Upgrading gears from microshift to Shimano

texts:
I have a Firestorm 29D (3 * 8 gears, 24 total) bike. The shifting is not smooth at all. I would like to upgrade my rear derailer and shifters or groupset to Shimano altus or any other. Kindly suggest me if its possible to do so.
Current configuration:

Shifters: Microshift TS38-8 3X8 Speed
Crankset: Prowheel 24X34X42T, 170mm
BB Set: Sealed Cartridge
Freewheel: Steel, 12-32T 8 Speed
Wheels: Alloy Double Wall 36H Rims
Rear Derailleur: Microshift RD-M25

I did try tuning it using the barrel adjuster but still the shifts are not smooth.
I was thinking of replacing the entire drive train. If Altus is not that good option what do you suggest is a good upgrade?
Yes I feel the same this gearset should have been smooth but it is not :( Since I bought this bike 2 months back I have rode a distance of 1000km.


texts: Handlebars for an upright seated position

texts:
After injuring my neck, shoulder and arm on a fall from my bike I need the type of handlebar that you see more commonly on a cruiser bike.  ie that is one that gives you anupright sitting position.  My bikes are a Merida 100d and a Specialized Ariel.  Does anyone know of a handlebar the can fit these bikes.
Erin


texts: Best bang for the buck to improve a cheap fixie?

texts:
What are things to improve on a cheap bicycle that make a real difference? I'm looking at the bang for buck tradeoff.

The bike is an inexpensive Fixie/Track Bike (less than 150GBP).

11 kg steel frame
Flat bar
Front and rear V-Brakes


texts: Why is this ring used near the Crankset?

texts:
I couldn't comprehend, why this ring is needed. Please refer the pictures. Its a road bike (I am not sure if it matters or not, so felt like mentioning it).

In my Bicycle, this ring usually comes out loose, Should I be worried and get it replaced?

Edit: Its an old bike, I have myself rode on this one for nearly a 3K miles so far, since I bought it from a person who had been using it. The model might go down to be roughly 7-8 years old. Nonetheless, I love this one.

P.S.: Pardon me for poor quality of the images.


texts:
I just bought an older road bike with 27" wheels.  I am curious if I can mount 700 wheels (typical road size) on it.  Has anyone ever done this?

The main reason I am interested in doing this is so that I can have more tire selection.  I like the body positioning on my road bike but since I live in a rural area I do a fair bit of biking on gravel/dirt roads and pathways.


texts: Can I use Shimano STI brifter with 11 speed mountain derailleur?

texts:
I'm considering a 1x drivetrain for a gravel bike. Shimano hasn't yet released a road/gravel solution to the market that incorporates a rear derailleur with a "clutch" (that keeps the chain from bouncing as much). Except for some of their mountain derailleurs, e.g. SLX.

So my question is, is such an 11 speed Shimano derailleur compatible (i.e. same "pull" as) their 11 speed STI shifters (such as Ultegra 6800)?

I did find an answer for 9 speed Shimano, indicating compatibility, but I'd like to know about 11 speed.

Thanks!


texts: What's the purpose of the Weeride Copilot "safety" tabs?

texts:
I just bought a used WeeRide Co-Pilot bike trailer. It's pretty good except for one little feature(?)

These tabs stick out on the side, and I'm assuming they're safety tabs to help you not run over your child, but for the life of me I can't figure out why. If I try to make a low-speed turn in our road (about 16') it will twist my seat around. It's less maneuverable than my regular bike trailer due to that fact.

Is there any real reason that I shouldn't follow through with my plan to grind them down/off so I can make turns safely?


texts:
My grandson has the kind of bike you pedal backwards to brake, and he goes riding with me on my days off.  Yesterday, he asked me if we can convert his bike because we have looked everywhere and no one seems to have a gear-shifting bike for someone who is 8.  The Problem is that he is having trouble keeping up with me and wearing out a lot earlier because of the hills.  Are there bikes with 18" or less wheels that shift or is he still too small for that kind of riding?  I am pretty sure that I can figure out how to mount the gears and get a small derailleur just to learn how to shift and I am pretty sure I can change his brake system to the handlebar levers, but not sure it would be so wise, if I could just get his parents, who are willing and more financially able, to replace the bike with one that is built to be a dirt bike and not a trick bike frame with attachments to help him go faster.

I am pretty sure it is possible and I may even be able to make it just like mine but not sure how cost effective it is if he can just buy one.

I am still learning what different bikes are called.  But he is about 3ft tall and his bike is getting too small for him.  His current bike has 12" wheels.


texts: What do I get by paying more for a bicycle?

texts:
I am not experienced with bicycles, although I have been using them for years to get to work, as well as to go out in the countryside (dirt trails) to take nature photos.

I have used affordable B'twin bikes and I was generally happy, but after my last bicycle was stolen I am looking to step up a bit. There are countless articles on the internet suggesting not to spend too little. But I find it very difficult to find anything tangible or easy to understand about what precisely one would really get by paying more.

Take for example the Rockrider 520, 540 and 560. (I am linking the English Decathlon site so people here can read it, but I do not live in the UK.) I am looking at these: all of them are better than what I had. The price more than doubles when going from the 520 to the 560. I look at the specs, but I am unable to translate them into what I could do with the 560 that is not possible with the 520, or how the experience would be different.  I am looking for help with this, especially advice that I could translate to other models as well, although it is these three that I am looking at now.

All of these are marked as:

  Not suitable for XC, All Mountain, Enduro and BMX.

This restriction seems to cover all forms of mountain biking (which is puzzling) and some websites suggest to dismiss all of these bicycles from the start because of this note. However, the cheapest model from Decathlon that does not have this note is 50% more expensive, way more than what I can afford (where I live, it's actually 2x the price of the discounted 560).

To sum up:

For any bicycle I pick, it is easy to find another one that is two or four times as expensive. How can I better understand what one gets in practice for paying more? The specs often just mention components of a certain brand, but it is hard to even see which component is better, not to mention how having a better component translates into riding experience (please see the specification lists I linked).

When looking at the three choices above, my spouse asked me "Even the cheapest one is better than what you had. What would you gain by paying more than that?". And I could not answer. What I really wanted (bigger wheel, better gear range and theoretically better brakes) is indeed present in the 520 already.

As to the question "why a mountain bike", I would like to be able to go on rougher trails (rocks, roots) without too much worry. I would like to learn how to do that safely and efficiently. However, I am not young and sporty or physically skilful person. I also keep thinking that my own physical limits may be reached much before that of an expensive (for me) bicycle.


texts:
I was wondering on a mountain bike what rear derailleurs work if have a 21 speed bike.

Additional information: 7 ring rear cassette and 3 in the front

Will an 8 and 9 speed rear derailleur work or how would i go about this getting a rear derailluer in that condition?


texts:
Sadiq Khan, the current Mayor of London, was spotted riding a (strikingly regular) bike around in May 2020.
What is the contraption attached to the center of his handlebars?


texts: Can you change a 7 speed freewheel to 6 speed

texts: Can you change a 7 speed freewheel to a 6 speed


texts: I have a fairly new MTB and I'm currently trying to tune the gears. Currently I can change down gears pretty smoothly I.e. 6 > 5 > 4 etc but going up the gears is slow for the chain to switch cogs. What should I check to fix this problem?


texts: Preventing ergonomic handlebar internal rubber cylinders to stick

texts:
I have a bike with ergononomic handles (Fuxon brand).
Those are kept in position (as in prevented to rotate) with a mechanism which fits inside the handlebar.

This mechanism works by compressing two rubber cylinders along their axis, so they expand in the diameter.

Whenever I need to remove them for any reason (last time replacing the bar ends) it's a long battle. The rubber cylinders don't move even when the pressure is released. I risked many times ending with the rubber cylinders stuck inside the handlebar. Still, it takes no effort to push them in, but don't want this to happen again.

Any suggestion to prevent them to become stuck? Could I use some grease/lubricant, without making the situation worse or making them ineffective?

The current "solution" is to relieve pressure by unscrewing the thing, and wait. It took several weeks, until one day the thing came out by pulling.


texts: How to board a ski chairlift that is not intended for bicycles?

texts:
As the end of the ski season is approaching, I am thinking about visiting our ski resort by bicycle. I would like to do it at the end of the season to avoid the inconvenience of the crowd, and minimize the inconvenience I would make for others.

In the ski resort we have, it is pretty unusual to have bicycles. The chairs don't have any hooks or other appliances to hold bicycles, and the crew might not be able (or willing) to help.

In these circumstances, how can I ensure safe and smooth boarding and disembarking? I will be in a small group (2-4 people), all of us having standard (non-fat) mountain-bikes. I am willing to do basic disassembly (e.g. remove wheels) if it would help.

Our ski-lifts have standard chairs, designed for 2 persons (like in this example picture); they are not of the type that slows down when in the boarding/disembarking area.


texts: combining friction shifting with indexed components

texts:
I would like to combine friction shifting and a 7 speed freewheel with current Campy Chorus derailleurs. It seems to me that the way that friction shifting works would allow this combination, since all that happens is that tension on the cable adjusted manually to get the derailleur to move between chainrings, right?

Is there any feature of indexed operation that makes this unlikely?


texts: Is it ever legal in the UK not to have two brakes on a bike?

texts: When using a bike on a road in the UK, is it ever legal not to have separate brakes on the front and back wheels?


texts:
Are there any small non-folding bikes, of relatively good quality?

From what I see around, Brompton/Dahon produce only folding ones.

Ideally, should be under 10 kg, and have a few gears (but single gear is fine as well). I don't care so much about the structure (frame type/wheel size), as long as I can use it comfortably for short city distances.

I don't entirely exclude folding ones - but the folding mechanism clearly has a cost, and it's something I don't really need. The target is more a bike with small frame/wheels, and longer saddle/handlebar supports.

The Big Shot Mini Polo would be a good option, but the seller said they don't produce it anymore.
The A-Bike could be an option.

I'm a ~70/75kg 5'10" person.

====================

Post purchase edit:

I ended up buying an A-Bike, and while on paper it could be an acceptable bike, its engineering is a disaster.

Riding on 6" wheels is not a big problem. The problems are two:
- it's very, very hard to pedal
- the sprockets will consume and become unusable after sometime

This bike will not last more than a few months. DO NOT BUY IT.

====================

Right now, what appears to be a good option, is the Dahon Jifo - the price is unfortunately high.


texts: Shimano 3 Speed Internal Hub Gear on child bike popping chain on 3rd speed

texts:
my daughter got a S'Cool bike that's a 3 speed internal hub gear system. It works fine in the first two speeds but when it goes to third gear it makes a bit of noise - like a small "whizzing" sound that often comes a few seconds when changing gears before the cassette switches over. Sorry, I'm not very technical yet on my bike knowledge.

After about a minute or two of riding in third gear the chain will pop off. She's 5 years old, very average weight so there should be nothing about too much strain on the bike. I've replicated the problem by holding the bike in the air and manually activating the pedals for about 30 seconds and then chain will pop off with almost no load.

This is the model she has (though she picked a real "pride of the irish, blazing orange color) https://www.scool.de/.cms/503-1-374


texts: Options to reduce reach on a gravel bike

texts:
I bought a 2020 GT Grade shortly after the pandemic hit. Bought it online, no test drive. It was a bit of a risk, but it seems to fit well enough with one exception: the reach feels a bit long. When I ride the hoods, I feel a little too extended. I'd guess I need to decrease it by ~30 mm.
I'd love to get a real fitting, but understandably none of the shops in my area are doing that yet, so I'm winging it and looking at some options with the help of my LBS.
My initial inclination was to shorten the stem. (It's about 80-100 mm.) But when I talked with my LBS he thought that that might modify the steering too much and suggested instead that I consider "short" or "ergo" drop bars. I think my current bar reach is about 100 mm, and I see some for sale that are 65mm.
So, my question to this great group is what is your opinion on the best way to reduce reach:
1/ shorter stem
2/ change out the drop bars
3/ something else?


texts: Entry level bike for 140kg rider - what features to look for and what to avoid?

texts:
I am a fairly large person (140kg). 7 years ago I used to bike quite a lot (I would go everywhere every day on the bike). Back then I weighed much less (I also was much younger, now I am 20 years old).
I am looking to buy an entry level bike (is around 250 euros but I can go higher, which is a decent sum in Romania).

My question is: what should I look out for in choosing my bike in order to be sure that I am buying a bike that will last me for some time: what parts that tend to be most affected my the users' weight should I check, what dimension for the tires (I am 1.90 m tall) etc.

I will mainly use it to go on normal, asphalt, roads, so I don't require something that is sturdy from that point of view. I plan on using it almost as much as I used the bike back then.


texts: Parking rear-wheel first: which sprocket to put rear derailleur in?

texts:
So, I want to keep this from happening:

To that end, I like to park my bicycle rear-wheel first, which was discussed in answers to this question, where I'm taking the images from. Since almost everywhere I need to leave my bike the stands tend to be of the variety you stick your front wheel into (image below), I like to park my bike rear-wheel first and lock the frame to the rack. Most of the time, the rack has space for the rear derailleur either inside or outside the rack.

This brings me to my question: Should the rear derailleur be between the tines of the rack, or should it be outside the structure? In other words, which sprocket should I have the chain on when it goes to the rack? For purposes of this question, please assume I don't have a kickstand.


texts: Is it possible to add disc brakes to a bike with caliper brakes?

texts:
I have a Felt Z80 road bike like the one pictured below. Would it be possible to add disc brakes instead of the caliper brakes it came with? I don't plan on getting a new bike for awhile so I thought this would be a beneficial upgrade because I ride in the rain from time to time.

I suppose my other question would be, if it is possible, would it be worth it?


texts: Crank axle cracked on 1972 Centurion, looking for guidance on how to replace

texts:
As I said, I have a 1972 Centurion. Today while riding I hit a pothole as I was coming down on my left pedal. I immediately felt like my pedal was moving around in ways it shouldn't. Stopping to look, I'd cracked the actual axle that the crank arms attach to.

I'm looking for information on where I can buy a replacement part for this, how much it will cost, as well as how to carry out the replacement.

Here's the actual crack:

Here's the pedal looking all bent:


texts: Bike pedals turning when coasting (not a fixed gear)

texts:
My pedals are moving when I'm coasting, and if I try to stop them the upper segment of the chain gets really loose, and the rear derailleur does this thing, where it gets almost horizontal, and then something gives and the chain moves – then the whole process repeats.

Here's a video that shows what's happening – you may want to download the video, otherwise the quality is quite poor.

This makes the bike pretty much unridable – I'm new to bicycling, I'd appreciate any suggestions for how to figure this one out.

EDIT 8th Sept 2015

Thank you guys for helping me.
I read the link given in second answer, and there were a lot words unknown to me, so I focused on common speeds, and according to that, I have a freewheel. I took it apart and cleaned it, according to this Youtube video.
It didn't fix my problem.

But, I took a couple of photos of my cassete/freewheel (I'm not sure what it is), so maybe you guys can tell me what it is after all: Photos (download for full resolution).


texts: I've decided on Bar End Shifters for my Vintage tour bike rebuild. I think I've got it down to these. Any reason to choose one or other?

texts: The contestants:  Shimano SL-BS64 Ultegra Bar End Shifter Set (8-Speed)  and Dia Competition Grand competition ENE bar end control.   Seem fairly similar and both well loved.  I'm aiming at pairing these with something like 26/36/48  and 7 speed  12-32.  Am I missing any good possibilities?


texts: Seeking suggestion for headset and bottom bracket press

texts: I'm looking for a suggestion on a single press tool, good quality, that will allow me to press fit a Praxis PF30/BB30 conversion BB and also a headset on a nice titanium frame. A single tool would be much easier on the budget.


texts: Hearing a strong sound when hitting a curb

texts:
I bought a  hardtail MTB about a month ago (a complete beginner) and the way I'm dealing with curbs is:

I'm going at a decent speed
I slightly lift my front wheel
I shift my weight off the back wheel (it's 27.5" and i have it on near maximum pressure
) and it hit the curb (and I hear a strong sound - sort of metal hitting concrete)

I had my friend to check if anything was touching the ground, he said nothing but the wheel.

Is this the right way to do it? Do I need to put more pressure to the wheels?
Thanks for your time, I really appreciate it.


texts: shimano M545 left pedal cap unit bolt fallen off during use

texts:
I recently (2 months ago) bought my first set of clipless pedals (first pedals I have ever bought, just used default ones before).  Shimano M545.  All was well till this morning when I noticed that the left pedal has lost the bolt on the side that holds it together, (think its called the cap unit bolt).  This cap unit bolt and the washer bits have disappeared, presumably during a ride.  Here is a link to shimano's site that shows the pedal and the cap unit bolt bit:

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0015-downloadFile.html/09)%20PD-M545%20and%20424%20Overhaul.pdf

I took it to my local bike shop and they say they do not have a bolt for it.  Can this sort of thing be found / bought and replaced or do I have to replace the whole pedal?

I bought it from Wiggle and have just contacted them about the issue but wanted the advice from the community about how I can deal with this situation.

Thanks


texts: Can I use an expanding plug rather than a star fangled nut in a steel steerer?

texts:
I've got a Genesis Equilibrium 725 steel frame and fork that came with an unbranded (but said to be Prestine) headset and Genesis-branded top cap and star fangled nut.
The headset and nut aren't fitted, and I'm considering buying a Cane Creek headset to use instead of the unbranded one, but my question here is specifically about the star fangled nut:
Can I use an expanding plug instead of the star fangled nut?
I am aware that an expanding plug must be used instead of the star fangled nut in a carbon steerer (e.g. see the entry for "Star Fangled Nut" in Sheldon Brown's glossary) and I have heard that expanding bolts can be used in aluminium steerers, but what about a steel steerer?
And should I be looking for a particular type of expansion plug?


texts: What features are useful on a bike for carrying children?

texts:
See also this question: What should I look for in a "trailer bike"/"tag-along" bike for a child?

I want to buy a bicycle.  I will want to use a child seat for a few years, and then move to a trailer.  I will be using the bike in a small UK town in light, orderly, traffic, to travel a few miles (At most 5 miles per journey.) on mostly level ground.

What features should I look for when buying the bike?  What features would be useful?

What features are less useful?


texts: How much range can I get with two separate cassettes without changing chain length?

texts: Just bought a new bike and got another wheelset in the deal. One is 700c and one is 650b. Right now they both have 11-34 cassettes. The rear derailleur is Shimano Claris long cage. I found an 11-23 cassette online. I'm curious as to whether or not the length of chain would be a problem when switching between wheelsets with this big of gap between the large cogs. Anyone have a similar experience?


texts: How accurate are altimeters in bike computers?

texts:
I bought a bike computer with a pressure-based altimeter (Sigma 14.16 STS). It gives gradient of current hill with 1% resolution, current altitude with 1 meter resolution, and total climbed amount with 1 meter resolution.
How accurate are these readings?


texts: Suitable rear mech for Megarange cassettes

texts:
I just bought an 11-34T 8 speed rear cassette and noticed that it is a Megarange cassette with a substantially large jump between the lowest and 2nd gears.

Will this work with my existing Alivio rear mech or do I need to get a different one? (Such as in this question here)


texts: Buying first hybrid bike; better to put $ into components or disc brakes?

texts:
I'm looking to replace my 2008 comfort cruiser with a fitness style hybrid. My budget allows for maxing out at $500 (on the new fitness hybrid bike itself). I ride rails-to-trails with the kids, charity rides, and would like to commute to work on occasion (15 miles round trip).

Ultimately the decision comes down to bike feel, but with the limited budget, am I better to put my money into upgraded components or disc brakes?


texts:
I am thinking of buying this e-bike off of Craigslist but I am having difficulty figuring out if it an actual e-bike or a regular bike that has been converted.

I wiki'd the list of GT hardtails and Google Images didn't show me anything that popped out.

What we know:

Hardtail Mountainbike
The make is GT
The Tires are Bontrager, possibly XR1

The guy isnt exactly answering my questions in complete English sentences.


texts: Professional bike mechanics & maintenance training courses

texts:
Recently I have been doing some small fixes in own bikes, I have enjoyed it a lot, then comes to my mind the idea that would be nice to help others as well, but in a more professional way.
What is the most professional training one could take to become a bicycle technician?


texts: What kind of rear wheel should I get for 10 speed Shimano Cassette? CS-4600 12-30

texts:
I have a 10 speed bike, and I bought a new cassette CS-4600 12-30
I am just confused. I'm not sure what kind of rear-wheel I should get for the new cassette that I bought. I am planning to use it mainly for indoor biking/zwifting.
I would really appreciate it if someone can tell me if all 700c wheels with a 'freehub' are compatible with the cassette that I bought.
Also my bike has quick release front, and rear as well.


texts: Can I replace Shimano Claris crankset FC-2450, 50/34t for Shimano 105 53/39t?


texts:
I'm looking for a pair of folding, orange training tires, size should be 700x23C.

I'd like to have only an orange stripe, not the whole tire.

Can you recommend some model?


texts: When pedaling forward my bike suddenly disingages and goes limp

texts: My Ridgeback Velocity bicycle suddenly disengages and goes limp and loose when pedalling forward, similar as if I'm pedalling backwards.


texts: I can ride a bike somehow, but I'd like to learn to do it better (maneuvering, etc.) before starting to use it as a way to move about the city. Any suggestions how I should go about doing that, what I should consider? All I could find on the web was how to learn to ride for beginners.


texts: Does riding on the sidewalk make it more likely to get a flat tire?

texts: I just started bike commuting, and the two times I've gotten flats were when I was biking on the sidewalk, and in both cases they seemed pretty random. I use a mountain bike. Is it just a coincidence or is there more to it?


texts:
I have a one inch crack in the topside centre of my top tube in my Ti bike.
Is this a problem in terms of frame integrity or?
Is it fixable?
The bike was hand built by a local well known frame builder, who is no longer
in the biz


texts: How can I lower the gear ratio on my son's bike?

texts:
I got a SH Commencal 24" MTB for my son. He loves it - except on climbing steep slopes where he runs out of steam.
It comes with a 7-speed 14-28T freewheel (Shimano MF TZ21) + Acera derailleur, and a single 36 tooth chain ring.
I added a photo in case it helps.
What would you suggest for getting the lowest gear ratio -- lower ?
The cheaper, the better.
I have basic knowledge of bike mechanics (but I'd use this as an opportunity to learn) and basic tools (but then again, there's eBay).
If it's over my head, I'll ask a bike shop to do it for me, but it will add to the price and be less fun.


texts: How to properly adjust rim brakes for a touring bike?

texts:
My touring bike needs new brake pads, and I'm about to do the swap. I've done it before, and plan to consult the usual YouTube videos to refresh myself in the procedure. (Brakes are something where one doesn't want to mess around.)

Touring bikes have special concerns when it comes to brakes. In particular, they're carrying a lot of weight and need to be able to stop in all conditions. But it seems that my brakes on this bike are always too tight or too loose.

How does one properly adjust the brakes on a touring bike?

(The bike in question is a Novara Randonee with cantilever brakes. I'll be putting on two sets of Kool-stop dual compound brake pads. However, answers that apply to touring bikes in general would probably be more useful for all.)


texts: Freshly inserted pin on a new Shimano chain causes a stiff joint

texts:
I just tried to replace my chain for the first time - Shimano, 9-speed, labeled as CN-GH53. After I inserted the special pin, the joint is somewhat more stiff compared to the other ones. On the insertion side, it seems to protrude from the plate about as much as the regular pins (so almost not at all), and on the other side, where the guiding part of the pin was, it's protruding by about 0.5 mm.

Is this normal, and will it get better once lube penetrates the link, or did I mess something up? I did notice that before I pushed it in enough to be aligned with the regular pins on the one side, the joint couldn't move at all and it got better once I got it further, but I don't want to push it in too far by accident.


texts:
What are the characteristic features of a bicycle well-fitted to its rider?

Are there a standard set of "rider positions" that we talk about in bicyle ergonomics?

What are the standard tolerances and variances of these heuristics in practice?

How do these features vary by domain (eg. road, mountain, grocery-getter)?

How do these features vary by application (eg. racing, touring, recreation, practical)?

Related (but not duplicate):

How to do a bike fit?
(This is similar but different because it's about doing a bike fit, versus what a good bike fit is.)
How should a bicycle helmet fit?
How is bicycle fit affected by switching from a riser bar to a flat bar?
Bike fit: Adjusting stem angle vs. height


texts: What's the best way to secure helmet straps?

texts:
On every helmet I've worn there is always some extra length to the straps that run through the buckle that secures the helmet to ones head.  Most helmet's these days come with one or two small rubber rings or something similar in which to loop the extra length on the strap.

Is there a better way to do this than the ways I've tried?  The most obvious way is to simply cut the slack off but I'm not really after that.  I'd like to see how others finish their helmet straps to be the most comfortable around the neck and the least intrusive.  Below are pictures of:

unfinished straps

method 1

method 2

I've been riding with method 1 and method 2 for awhile.  Is there a better way to secure the straps other than cutting?


texts:
I have been looking for a press-fit bottom bracket replacement bearing for a Giant Fastroad SLR1 (2016 model).

The markings on it identify it as an FSA 19mm diameter, that is the spindle is 19 mm I think.

I took it to my LBS, they did a botch job with some replacement bearings, not the full unit, which I had to re-adjust myself as they tightened it far too tight.

Can anyone recommend where I could get some replacements from please?


texts:
The tires on my Miami Sun tricycle have chevrons that point in the opposite direction and the label on the side wall which reads drive direction.
Do I align the tires using the chevron or the arrow stamped on the side wall ?


texts: what is the average amount of pre load supposed to be on the front and rear wheels?? mountain bike. i know that if you leave just enough to barely feel movement in the wheel, then tighten wheel, seems like i'm constantly having to re adjust. if i put any load on it just past the no play area, it feels kinda ruff...but when i squeeze both ends manually like i'm installing it, it gets smooth...is the rufness correct before preload after tightening wheel?


texts:
I have to park my bicycle, leaning it against a low metal fence. Unfortunately the frame of the bike gets scratched. Though I try to protect it by wrapping it with polyethylene, some parts are still unprotected. So, I decided to buy a double leg kickstand: to keep the bike standing straight, so it won't touch the fence.

I found out, that there are cheap and expensive kickstands:

1-st kickstand costs 99 GBP
2-nd kickstand costs 43,52 AUD
3-rd kickstand costs 21,99 AUD

What is so special in the 1-st and 2-nd kickstands, that makes the price so high? The 3-rd seems ok to me.


texts: I biked the longest I have in my life; my previous record was one 12 mile ride, but today I went ~36 miles on my MTB. Should there be any steps I take to recover myself? Also what things should I inspect on the MTB? I noticed that during my ride there was sometimes pain in my lower back ... should I be moving the seat forward or backward?


texts: 22 inch frame mountain bike for someone who is 5'8"

texts: I'm 5'8" and had my mountain bike stolen in the fall (bummer!). Just found a really good deal on a 2015 Giant Revel but it's got a 22 inch frame. Would this be unsafe/unpleasant enough that I shouldn't get it? Hard to say no to a deal like this!


texts:
I need some help, or suggestions

I have a Campagnolo Record 1" steerer threadless headset, that it is supposed to go on my Cinelli Proxima project.
The problem is that when I received the frame and headset I realized that it was missing its "crown race".
I tried to look online, but it is quite tricky to find one, and expensive to buy on itself, just because people selling these components, even when they are old and used, try to over price them.

Do you know how I could find one, what is the best way to find these kind of components?

Could I use a generic crown race, or the contact angle of the bearing would be different?

For what I know if the caged bearings are just the same as a normal generic headset, both should roll on a generic crown race, it should not be like for sealed bearings which need a precise angle.

I really appreciate your input!
thanks


texts:
I am shopping for tyres for my normal MTB. As I am mostly riding city, some gravel and light offroad I wanted something with good speed on road and some traction offroad. I found Schwalbe E-bike tyres which should offer just that.
Are there any downsides for riding e-bike tyres on normal bike?


texts: I just bought 2002 Specialized Expedition Elite 3×9 speed bike. The bike comes with stock threaded stem. It was taken apart for service. And upon reassembly the bottom of the stem is catching and not fitting inside. Nothing has changed in the setup, all parts are the same, no bearings fell out, nothing broke, so I am at loss. I will be grateful for any help!


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I'm building a new bike and have ridden a frame which feels (and looks) amazing. I'm dead set on buying it but it's a single speed frame. Ideally I would like gears at the rear. It has a dropout which can house a derailleur but there are no cable stops on the frame. It has been suggested a just run the cable straight into the derailleur and should work.

Has anyone ever tried/seen this setup?

EDIT:

In response to some of the comments, this is the frame in question;

It's a great ride and I'm really struggling to find anything that rides anywhere close it, hence my attempt at finding a solution. It may turn out that I do need to choose another frame, but I wanted to explore all options before going back to the drawing board.


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I tried the Xiaomi qicycle electric folding bike and I really liked it.

The only problem is its size. I already know how to raise the handlebar, but I'm not sure how to raise the seat. It should be just about five centimeters higher, in order to fit with my height. I can't replace the seat tube with a longer one, because it's already the longest I can find. I found this product. Its purpose is not to make the seat bar longer, but it would accomplish this goal anyway. I was wondering whether there are other possibilities besides this.

Rinsten Spring


texts: I have a cassette style wheel. How do I measure whether it will take a 7, 8, or 9 speed cassette?


texts: I have a fixed gear bicycle with a chain that gets periodically tight and loose as I complete a rotation of the pedals.  How do I center my chainring so that the chain has even tension throughout?


texts: How does Google Maps estimate cycling times

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Google Maps has a bicycling routing option in beta. It does seem to do a good job routing in my town by using streets with bike lanes where possible and avoiding going up steep inclines directly.

But I'm curious how it estimates travel time. For cars, it seems to use the speed limit with a proprietary  fudge factor that uses historical and current traffic conditions.

But for bicycles, what is it using to estimate travel time? There's considerable spread in terms of speed between the fastest Strava PR (personal record) seekers and the slowest bike moms with trailers - maybe even as great as 2-3x difference.

Has anyone figured out what the algorithm seems to be doing in terms of cycling times? Does it take into account the user's own cycling speed? Has Google said anything re: this?


texts:
So I sat down and said "what kind of a bike do I want?".

I ride mostly in the city, but I wanted something that I could take out to the trails. I don't do anything crazy... maybe a 2' drop at the most. Since I'm looking at bikes in the 1-1.5k price range, full-sus bikes are absolutely out. It seemed like a hardtail 29er was the way to go.

But then I got to doubting that I needed the front suspension either. Why not save money, weight, and maintenance? All I'm sacrificing is a little bit of off-road capacity.

So I went hunting for a non-sus 29er in the 1-1.5k price range. The only ones I can find are single-speeds. Really? I'm a spinner, and there's no way I'm doing that.

What do I do? (feel free to shoot down the theory that I don't need a front suspension)


texts: Can anyone tell me what make or brand this frame is?

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I can't figure out who made this or what brand maker it is. It has the serial number and on top of it it has a different number.

G0Q230-2
Wbdo26l0431p


texts: Can an 8 speed chain fit inside an 11 speed Shimano 105 (RD-R7000 ) rear derailleur?

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I am using downtube friction shifters, I know my shifter's pull of 28.5 mm multiplied by the Shimano 105 RD's pull ratio of 1.4 gives me 40mm of travel, enough to traverse  the entire width of my 35 mm 8 speed freewheel. I am worried that my 8 speed chain will be too fat to roll across the jockey wheels of the 11 speed 105 rear derailleur...should I be ?
I have an 8 speed freewheel.


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I have a used bike I would like to sell. It's relatively high end (retail price was about $3.5k). I put the bike for sale on Craigslist at what seemed to be a good price, especially relative to others on the site that I've seen, but haven't gotten any responses at this time.

What other methods or services are popular and reliable to sell a used bike?

EDIT:

To be clear, I don't want tips about why my ad might not be good on Craigslist, as that is a very different question and probably not helpful to most readers. I'm curious about reliable venues to sell used bikes from people who have experience with that.


texts: Some trainers come with a polyurethane roller not metal. I think that would be a lot better then the metal one. Has anyone used a polyurethane roller? And if so are they good or just the same as metal when it comes to wear and tear, and slippage ?


texts: Bike Setup: Correlation between seatpost offset and stem length?

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Say the current setup uses a zero offset seatpost, and a 100mm stem.  If the seatpost were replaced another seatpost that has a 20mm offset, should offset be subtracted from the stem length?

My current situation is for a road/cross frame, dunno how important that is to the topic vs mountain/etc frames.