texts:
I commute every day on my trekking bike and when it is snowy/icy, I replace my normal tires with some studded tires.

The studded tires are ace, but replacing the tires is a real pain in the ass.

So I'm thinking of buying a replacement set of wheels to fit the winter tires onto.

What do I have to consider when buying new wheels?


texts: I have a Garmin Edge 500 with hear rate monitor, which I use while riding. Now I have all this hear rate data which I don't know how to apply. Can anyone point out how I should use this data for training, with the intention of racing?


texts: Is it possible to use a MTB with rear Boost hub with a Tacx E Blue Twist T2675 E trainer?

texts:
Greeting,
I want to buy a Tacx E Blue Twist T2675 E ( or any entry to medium home trainer from Tacx ) but I am not sure if it fits with my Rear Syntace X-12 - M12 12x148 Thread Pitch 1.0 Boost E-thru axle system.
I searched a lot the internet but I still couldn't find a good answer. I used this link to search for a Trainer Axle:
https://tacx.com/product/e-thru-trainer-axle/
I find that model T1711 which is for 142x12 would probably fit my requirements?
For modifying Tacx support I found this video

My frame is a MTB 4XL Promaxx 29er from Maxx.de This is the frame details:
My only uncertainty is: Will T1711 be able to hold my bike? or should I make a home-made Axle like in this video?

Also, I am ~130kg naked. Will Tacx hold me and my bike?


texts: Seatpost clamp arrow and too wide saddle rails

texts:
I have two questions in one: :)
The first would be what direction does this arrow on the seatpost's top clamp indicate? Is it towards the front or rear of the bike?
Second would be what should I do if my saddle rails are too far apart to fit the clamp?


texts:
I have a bike with lever/downtube shifters. I hate them, feel like they don't stay in gear for more than 10 minutes at a time, and would prefer a bike that has preset gears. Is there a way to get the shifting mechanism on my bike replaced to something like a thumb shifter?

I'm not looking for opinions about the best kind of gears.


texts:
I have an older Wabi Classic cycle which comes with TH Industries BB-7420AL 68/103 that seems to creak. I believe its called squared tapered. Its a single speed. Missing Cranks

I want to change the Bottom Bracket and Crankset to a new Shimano/ Sram with I think its called external threads? How do I buy both?

Can it be changed?


texts: How to verify bicycle by frame serial number

texts:
I have a problem to verify the model of the bicycle.

I have frame number - A4D58277 but can't check anywhere in Google, by which company was made.


texts:
I need to flatten my bicycle tire. What is the safest and best way to do this?

What I mean by safest is: I want to reinflate it again afterward.


texts: I was wondering if anyone here who is riding with bullhorn handlebars could share how tiring it is to ride, say, 50 km? I am thinking of setting up them to my road bike, mainly because, you know, it looks cool, but it almost feels like riding on drops which I find uncomfortable after a while. Bullhorn handlebars also provide 2 positions, so, does that make it more manageable? I am interested in rides which are about 30 - 70 km long. Thanks!


texts:
After having used platform pedals, I've recently started using Shimano SPD pedals on my cyclocross bike, which I mainly use on paved roads. I really like being clipped in, however, I have a condition with sore forefeet, with the pedals just making things worse due to pressure being applied in quite a small spot.

My question:
What are the best pedals for distributing pressure across the largest possible area on the foot?
Something like Shimano SPD SL?


texts: Extraterrestrial thing found in my suspension fork!

texts:
I have recently disassembled my suspension fork and found an extraterrestrial piece of rubber in the coil spring. After some highly accurate measuring it was safe to say that this rubber piece is actually preventing the spring to compress properly. I have removed the thing and the measured travel of my suspension fork doubled from 45mm to ~90mm. I didn't yet have the opportunity to test how it works out on the trails, however.

Do you know what this thing and it's purpose is? If it actually has a purpose, would it be a dumb idea to cut it in half so that it doesn't reduce travel?


texts: Old Cannondale MTB. 2nd set of wheels. Orig wheel has 8 speed cassette...2nd set has a 7 speed. Need advice

texts:
OK...need some advice. I have an old Cannondale with 8 speed Shimano XT drivetrain.  My current wheel has the appropriate Shimano 8 speed cassette.(13-26).

I bought an old Schwinn with the intention of using the 26" wheels to slap some street tires on it to use with my Cannondale from time to time.

The Schwinn wheel has a 7 speed cassette (or freewheel...not sure yet if it's a cassette).  I'd like the 2 sets to be interchangeable and I don't want to re-adjust my derailleur all the time. Do I need to bite the bullet and try to swap the 7 speed out for a matching 8 speed cassette or do you think this set up will be good enough?

I have started researching this and I apparently need special tools to remove the cassette and the hub may not even be compatible with an 8 speed. yikes.  Your advice is appreciated.


texts: Spinning bike's pedals are way bigger than the cleat pedals I have. What size do I need?

texts: I’ve bought a spinning bike that has the cage pedals. I have cleat shoes which I prefer to ride in, so I bought some cleat pedals to fit to the spinning bike. Trouble is I've just taken the existing pedals off, and the thread is way bigger on the spinner pedal than the one I have on the pedals I have bought. Is there a bigger pedal or adapter available?


texts: Protecting beater bicycle from scratches and rust

texts:
I have a beater commuter steel bicycle that is subject to all kinds of weather, abuse and a lots of scratches. Several hot-spots on the frame have appeared over the time where most of the damages and corrosion happens.

I was thinking of protecting those spots by:

removing rust
applying a layer of 2 component epoxy (have G-flex at hand) to seal the steel
after epoxy cures, wrap it with self adhesive silicon tape to protect epoxy from UV exposure

Does this sound like a good idea? Some better, cheaper, quicker, more durable solutions?


texts: Ouch, I'm really sore. Should I take a break for a while? How long?

texts:
I was in to cycling quite a lot in high school,  but was unable to and/or really lazy in college.

I've been getting back into cycling lately, doing a 65 miler two weekends ago, a 25 last weekend, and a 45 yesterday, in addition to biking to work (about 3.5 miles up a large hill in the morning, the same distance almost without pedaling on the way back) 6/10 days of those weeks.

Woke up this morning and I'm really really sore everywhere. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to just "cool it" for a couple of days?


texts: Why are tandem pedals mounted with the same position?

texts:
I have noticed that on all the tandems I have seen the pedals are mounted in the same position. i.e. while the front right one is up, so is the rear right one, and not front right up and rear right down.

Is there a specific reason for this?


texts: Can't find the B-tension screw in rear derailleur

texts:
I am trying to register my old rear derailleur (a 15-year-old Shimano "7sis"), and I'm trying to find what every guide calls the "B-tension screw". I looked everywhere and couldn't find anything that looks like it. I only have the two screw for the upper and lower limit.
Here are a couple of pictures:

Can anybody point me in the right direction?
Thanks


texts: Will adding duck/duct tape in my tires stop punctures?


texts: Are recumbents more fatal in an accident than a regular bicycle?

texts:
I noticed a bunch of people riding recumbents a few days ago, as well as upright bikes, for an event happening in my town.  What struck me was the low ride height and poor visibility (by others) of the recumbent riders, and, yes, they had flags.

While I hope it never happens, I couldn't help but think that if one were to get hit by a vehicle on a recumbent, it seems like one would be more likely to get run over/squashed/crushed under the tires, whereas on an upright bike, it seems more likely one would just fall off the bike if one were to get struck by a vehicle.

This is what has happened to me when I've been hit by cars in the past; I got injured but kind of just flew off the bike and to the ground.  I have never ridden a recumbent so I'm not familiar.

I know closing speed, impact angle, preparedness, etc. all factor into how bad one is hurt or not during an accident and I would like to know, on average, is a recumbent more fatal in an accident than a regular bike?  Are there any statistics that speak to this?


texts:
I have been using a riding jacket but it is a bit hot during summer over long trips. I like the jacket because it is very simple, only one pocket for a key and it protects in accidents (or so I think).

I have now used a so-called "technical t-shirt" used by footballers and armies as underwear. It moves the moisture out of the skin so my body temperature is more stable even with the jacket. I have replaced my cotton t-shirt under the jacket with it and I feel much better with it. I am unsure why but it works, ideas about such layered bicycling welcome.

I have been considering to buy this suit here but I have no experience with them earlier. What should I look for with this kind of suits? And how do layers work here? Which layer moves the moisture, not to get cold etc?


texts: Why are tubeless tyres popular in mountain biking?

texts:
I've noticed that a lot of people use or promote tubeless tyres for mountain biking. Why is this?

It seems a lot of hassle to get a special rim conversion kit and goop to put in the tyre. As far as I can see it still makes a lot of sense to carry a tube in case it all goes wrong out on the trail any way.


texts:
This is not meant to come across ignorantly or demeaning to other people I've cycled past.
When I come across other cyclists in long or short rides, I feel like I'm holding back to save hurting their feelings. It doesn't matter if they are commuters or group riders with rapha jerseys and bikes I can't afford. I have a used Bianchi that I got for £500 from a colleague at work. So it's nothing to write home about and is a very basic gear setup. It's a hybrid bike.
For example, there was a solo rider on my way to work and he looked to be putting in an effort on a climb. I didn’t get too much of a look at the bike, but it looked like a giant TCR. And he wore the normal cycling bib and jersey. I was wearing baggy joggers and somewhat loose jacket. I don’t know how long he's been riding nor the amount of time he has been riding for this specific ride. I got past him in no time and never saw him again after that.
Before I got my bike I walked everywhere. At the gym I could easily lift a massive weight with my legs. My legs have always been "big" and it wasn't due to my weight.
Sorry, I'm kind of stressing myself out about this. Do I have above average cycling legs unintentionally or did I just happen to condition my legs to be this way? Is it genetically a thing? None of my family have ever cycled, but yet I can go past everyone I meet in the streets that are cycling.
Before anyone says anything, I am not putting effort in to go past anyone; I'm going at my normal pace.


texts: Fettling issues - slow shifting rear gears while riding

texts:
I've recently had an issue with my gearing, struggling to shift down onto the last few cogs on the cassette.

I've got a Shimano Ultegra 6800 groupset, but when I shift whilst riding, I get a "tick-tick-tick" then it shifts.

This isn't the issue though.
I understand that a tweak of the barrel adjuster should sort it.

My issue is that when I put my bike in the bike stand, it doesn't happen.

I have thoroughly cleaned the bike and groupset, and re-lubed it. When shifting up and down to test, everything flies smoothly!

I then took it out on a test spin to make sure everything was hunky-dory, and my shifting issue was back!

Does anyone know of a way that I can replicate the riding conditions/forces on my bike whilst on the stand?


texts: Can I drop-in a compact crank set with my current 105 groupset

texts:
I live near a lot of hills and am fairly new to biking.  In my lowest gear I still can't keep up at an efficient pedal rate on the hills.  I found out they sell "compact cranksets" which in addition to having a different bolt pattern have fewer teeth (50/34 vs 53/39).

Can I simply replace my old crank set (Shimano 105 5600, 53/39) with a new 56xx or 57xx compact crank?  I'd expect to have to take a few links out of my chain too, but other than than can I keep my shifter and derailleur?


texts: Joining Shimano chain with pin - which link-type should "lead" (take the power)

texts:
I'm pro-actively replacing the chain on my son's bike (the first time I neglected this cost me dear for replacement of derallieur, cassette and cranks at the LBS) which is used daily for commute to school (about 8.5 miles/day round trip).  The previous chain was a KMC which came with a quick-link, this time I am back to the original.

The new chain is Shimano 8S CN-HG71, and comes with a connecting pin rather than quick-link.  I'm looking at the Dealers Manual DM-GN0001-23-ENG.pdf pages 68 onwards.  I have all the necessary tools.

On page 70 it states:
As illustrated in Fig. [A], we strongly recommend to set the connecting pin in the hole of the outer link on the front side in the direction of travel.
The chain’s level of strength is enhanced compared to the method in Fig. [B]

This is accompanied by an image but unfortunately, rather than clarify, this has left me with a level of doubt.

The picture shows the chain broken below the crank therefore travelling right-to-left, if the figs. [A] and [B] correspond to this then they are the opposite way around to what the words suggest.  Or is the pulling-force being applied from the right-hand-end of those diagrams (so they are not a direct zoom-in to the crank diagram, despite that being suggested)?

Image credit: Shimano


texts: Is my six-year old touring bike worth repairing?

texts:
My touring bike (which I use for commuting) needs repairs which will cost £200... half the price of a new one.

I am not mechanically-minded.... and I am too busy and too old to learn!

A new bike will cost twice the price. But with the new bike, I get all the things the repairs will bring.... plus new wheels, new tires, a shiny frame (the current one is scarred but not damaged).

The bike shop say repairing is the best option.

I'm thinking.... keep the bike over the summer.... and buy another when the end-of-season sale comes along.

The repairs are: a major service, replacement of all the drive mechanism, etc.

Advice please!


texts: What is the diameter of the seat post on Citizen folding bikes?

texts:
I have searched and cannot find the diameter of the seat post.

I would like to get their Miami or Gotham model, but I know I'll need a seat extension as a 6'2" rider.

Dahon and others make longer seat posts, but I need to know the diameter in order to ensure a fit.

Anyone know the Citizen seat post diameter? Is it 33.9 like the Dahons?


texts:
So I bought a Continental Der Kaiser (similar to this one) and the peripheral knobs are pure magic. When I shift my weight slightly to the side, the central thread disengages and the peripheral engages. This has two advantages:

The grip is excellent, the bike feels as if it is upright, while it is actually 45 degrees tilted
I can very cleanly feel when the switch happens, so I know how hard am I cornering and what is the actual friction with the trail.

I have had similar experience (without the first advantage, only the second) with much cheaper tires, similar to the following, but with uninterrupted central thread:

The side knobs change the feel of the bike while cornering, and I know how close am I to losing traction. The effect is most pronounced on asphalt.
However, my new Scwalbe Land Cruiser tires have a round profile. Lacking the peripheral knobs, I feel very insecure during turns, because although the tires grip well, the two times I fell there was no warning - just the tire sliding our from under me. A tire with peripheral grips would have stood on its peripheral knobs and I would have felt that the edge of the tire was getting at funny angle and would have straightened the bike.
Is it true that round profile tires (like the Land Cruiser) are inferior at cornering (on pavement)? If so, what are their advantages (considering that side knobs do not add to rolling resistance, when travelling at straight line)?
As a bonus question, is the technique for cornering with round tires different from tires with side knobs?


texts:
I recently bought a Mavic A 319 rim with ETRO 622 x 19C and Schwalbe Marathon 28" tire with ETRO 32-622. Based on the tire sizing chart found at Sheldown Brown (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html) and the recommended tire width by Mavic of 28 to 47 mm, I thought that the 32mm would fit for sure. However, it requires enormous strength to pull the tire onto the rim. Much more than any tire that I have changed in the past. Because of the very tight fit, my tire was pulled down slightly on one side, making it run unevenly. To correct for this I had to pull and push on different parts of the tire to make it fit evenly. Also, something I never needed to do on a bike.

Is this expected, because the 32 are on the low end of the spectrum or did I read the numbers wrong?


texts: Should I fight a ticket I got for riding my bicycle in a crosswalk?

texts:
I was riding my bicycle home. I live on a one way and was waiting in the crosswalk while oncoming traffic down the one-way was green. This was at a 4 way intersection. There was no oncoming traffic and all other lights were red. I rode into the crosswalk and was nearly through when the light turned green for the oncoming right side traffic. A man flew through the crosswalk, not seeing me, and we collided. I hit his mirror off, made impact with his door, and fell down. I was then treated by the EMT and taken to the ER for further evaluation.

I am suffering no broken bones, but a painful hand contusion, cuts and bruises, as well as enhanced neck pain from a previous neck injury.

The cop found me still very frazzled in the ER and told me I was getting issued a citation for going the wrong way on a one way (while the man who hit me got off scot-free). The cop also said she could be giving me 3 other tickets but was trying to be "nice." I thought you didn't have to do that if it was a traffic infraction...

I understand that local bike laws in Santa Barbara say you are treated as a car. However, I was in the crosswalk (which is parallel to the one way street) when I was hit.

I need help understanding the laws regarding these specific circumstances. Is this worth fighting in court?


texts:
I'm considering getting my first road bike, a departure from the mountain bikes I've ridden in the past. I've heard that road bikes are ideal for asphalt-paved roads and paths, but I'm curious as to how much they're able to withstand. Particularly, I'm wondering if they'll be able to survive kinda badly paved roads where the ground is still flat but there's bits of gravel and dents in the ground, along with the occasional rock (like the C&O Canal trail to DC).

Basically, what's the worst trail that the average road bike should be able to withstand?


texts: What road hubs models or manufacturers use replaceable cartridge/sealed bearings?

texts:
whilst opinions differ on which is better, cartridge bearings (aka sealed bearings) vs loose-ball bearings. I'm attracted cartridge bearings based hubs, because of the prospect of just periodically replacing these cheap seemingly standard bearings to maintain my hub.

Which manufacturers and/or hub models make make use of standard cartridge bearings? (As opposed to highly custom bearings that could only be bought from the manufacturer)


texts: What causes frames to break at the (rear) dropouts?

texts:
The drive-side dropout and rear axle have broken twice. It's an old-style freewheel, not a freehub+cassette. (I weigh around 100kg, and ride a lot, and have been touring on hilly, gravel roads, with 15kg camping gear on the rack.)

The bike is an old (20-25 yo) hybrid Malvern Star (model "Elite"), steel frame, with 5 cogs on the back, and a freewheel. About 2-3 years ago, the drive side dropout broke, along with the rear axle (QR). I got new dropouts welded in, and the QR axle replaced with a solid bolt up (for $172 AUD).
They told me the axle "wouldn't beak". After a year or so, the rear axle broke again (which the LBS replaced). Then, about 6 months after that, the drive-side dropout broke again (EDIT near the chain stay) - not the weld, but the dropout itself, next to the weld.

I ride everywhere, and did several wilderness touring trips during that time. They were "on-road", but hilly, gravel roads (Bunyip State Park), and sometimes they're corrugated, sometimes water eroded, and ther were some tree roots on a rail-trail once, which I (mostly) manage to avoid. I wouldn't think they'd stress the bike that much, and wheel rims are perfectly OK - even though single-walled.

The LBS said it's because the freewheel stresses the axle, and when it breaks, the angle of the axle stresses the dropout, causing it to break in turn. They said it's the only cause of the break, and would not happen with a freehub and cassette. Researching online, I see the freewheel design does stress the axle. The guy now maintaining Sheldon's site agrees that that's how dropouts break; a couple of source only say it "can" break dropouts - but most don't mention an effect on dropouts at all.

Is the freewheel why my drive-side dropout keeps breaking?

Would a freehub + cassette really "solve" this problem, or would it keep happening? I want to go on longer tours, and don't want to get stranded!

Is there another solution?

Many thanks for reading all this! :-)

tyres: Schwalbe endurance, 26x1.50, inflated to 100psi (which they are rated to). Supposedly somewhat puncture resistant; but I got one on every tour.

dropouts: The replacements were forged dropouts (originals were pressed dropouts). It looks pretty strong to me, it's about 4mm where it broke, and about 7mm where the bolt goes.

hubs: after second broken axle, LBS noted slight pitting on the hub where the ball bearings run. Wheels are "Joytech", new about 5 years ago. They were the cheapest ones ($80 AUD, IIRC), single alloy rims. They look very well made (to me). The rear was a QR.


texts: Lighter bike slower than a heavier bike, possible reasons?

texts:
I have access to two mountain bikes, a lighter one (lapierre) and a Giant.
The maintenance I do to both is really similar, just tires and oiling the chain every few weeks. I always though that the lapierre was harder to ride but the other day I did an actual test. Before I set off I checked the tires and oiled the chain and did the same distance, at the same time and  similar weather and the lapierre was much more work and did a slower top speed and average speed, can anyone suggest any reasons for this and how can I fix it?

I took a bunch of pictures of both bikes first the slower Lapierre then the two bikes and then the giant here
http://imgur.com/a/G1MST#7

Tyre pressure is for both bikes on the 30s

I think tyre size is 26" (not sure) tho, as you can probably see from the pictures, they are the same size

Edit: very similar tires (if anything the giant has more grip), suspension exists and set to as stiff as possible on both (the test was performed on road),
As for different gearing I have no idea how to check
rider position feels very similar
Will take pics today and these tests are done on roads (ie while commuting)

My measurement was done using strava but also I felt it was harder to ride and thought I might have been slower

Cheers


texts: What is causing this noise? Is it normal?


texts: I have a 13 mile commute, and I'm looking to buy a new bike

texts: I'm currently riding a mountain bike from Wal-Mart, takes me about an hour. When I get my tax return, I plan buying a more appropriate bike for the commute. I'd like to stay around $300-400, and this would be the second bike I would buy, so I'd appreciate any suggestions and advice.


texts: What is the purpose of greasing BB threads?

texts:
As is known for Shimano sealed bottom bracket cartages (e.g. page 16 here), if the BB cup is made out of metal, grease should be applied to the frame-cup thread. If the cup is plastic, grease should not be applied.

My question is what is the purpose of applying grease?

On a side note, I have heard of a couple of explanations, none of which I can prove or disprove. Firstly, to prevent difficult removal of the cups due to corrosion of cold welding. And secondly, to prevent intrusion of water and contaminants through the threads.


texts: XC helmet for road biking, or road helmet for XC?

texts:
I'm not a very serious biker in either category, I need a new helmet and I'm thinking that I would rather spend $200 on one awesome helmet rather than $100 on two just-good helmets.

I understand that an XC helmet will have more padding and a road helmet will lighter and more aerodynamic. One one side, I feel like added protection of the XC can't hurt, but then the aerodynamic thing comes into play. Also in favor of the road helmet, I don't think I ride crazy enough trails to merit the XC helmet. I mostly ride mild to moderate single tracks in the woods of New England.

For a road helmet, I've been searching for a few hours and I've found that POC makes a road and XC helmet based on the same design called the Octal. In the road bike variant, it comes with MIPS.

For an XC helmet, I've noticed a few models come with GoPro mounting systems with quick release in case of a collision. I do a lot of night time XC riding and I love the idea of putting a flashlight on that. The Bontrager Lithos and a few Lazer helmets have that feature. I'm not sure how odd they'll look or if the visor wind resistance will actually be a problem on the road bike.

Are there any better middle ground helmets that I'm missing? Am I risking my safety more one way or the other? Should I change my mind and buy two instead of one?

I've been riding with a Trek Vapor for over 10 years. Anything is an improvement!


texts: mountain bike chainsuck, replacing parts while thinking of future upgrades

texts:
I have been having what I believe is called chainsuck for a while now.  Chain will get stuck between first and second ring and have to stop and pull like "%&$* to get it out.  It is always the between the first and second.

From reading a few posts it looks like the sensible approach is to (at minimum) replace the first and second rings as well as the chain.

My question is:

1) should I replace all of the rings or is it OK to only do 1 and or 2?

2) do I have to replace the rear cassette at the same time?

3) Is this pretty hard (just starting to learn how to do some mods, cleaning and maintenance my self).

EDIT

on further inspection, the middle ring has lost some teeth, got a nice bend in one bit and shark fin look to some of the teeth.  This was replaced by "halfords" a while ago, guessing they put some rubbish ring on there.  The first ring is a bit shark fin like, but the outer looks pretty good.


texts: Road positioning when stopping at an intersection with stationary traffic

texts: When the light is red and there are cars in a line. Since bicycles ride on the very right do we go ahead to the stop light or stay behind the cars? I live in British Columbia, Canada.


texts:
I have a used 2011 trek 1.2 compact road bike with a stiff Sora FD-3400 double front derailleur.

Shifter seems very stiff, and when I shift above the second index (trim or third) by accident it gets stuck on the big chainset ring and then it takes a huge amount of force to release it or even impossible and I have to release the shifter cable from the derailleur. As I understand I should set the top limit so it won't go over the second index right? But even if I shift to the second index and try to lower to the first it takes some heavy force
and there is a loud clank when it does get released.

I think its the derailleur because when I detached the derailleur, pulling the cable in the housing seems smooth, and the shifter has good and smooth pull and release for all its indexes and trims.

Here's a video of me pulling hard on the cable

Here's my video of how hard it is to move:

Compared to what I see here at 1:34 mark:

when it does shift this is the sound it does at the end of this video (not my video)

I also suspect the previous owner had something to do with it, since there is a little dent under where the derailleur clips shown here:

Am I right thinking its the derailleur and should replace it? What else can it be that  I should check?


texts:
A failed stealing attempt left my Bianchi Via Nirone 7 road bike with an ugly damage to the frame. The bike is still in place, and it hurts me every time I go to the bike shed. They removed the front wheel and twisted it 90 degrees, with the back wheel all the way up. The Kriptonite 2 D lock bent, but did not give in. Same for the frame. There is a big dent on the top tube of the frame.

I am considering buying a frame and having it replaced.

Any suggestions on which tools I could use to remove the jammed Kriptonite Series 2 lock?
When looking for frames, what are the technical specs that I have to pay attention to if I want to be able to re-use the fork, the seat tube and the pedals?
How unsafe is it to use the bike with a dented frame?

Thanks!


texts: What caused my cycling shorts to get damaged during washing?

texts:
On a ride yesterday, I noticed a spot on my shorts where the fabric felt rough. After washing, the problem became much worse, and there are major areas of damage on both the front and back of the shorts. The following picture shows a close-up of a section of the shorts on the front near the chamois. If I look at the shorts closely, it almost seems like there are short little threads of elastic sticking out.

I've never put the shorts in the dryer, and I'm not aware of anything I've done wrong. Is this sort of damage common? Are there any mistakes in care or handling that are likely to have caused this, or is it a manufacturing defect?


texts: Can I mix & match different chainring brand/model?

texts: I want to change my 36 Race Face Evolve chainring (in a 22/36 setup) for a 32t. I've found a "cheap" Race Face Turbine 32t. Will it be compatibile with the 22t "Evolve" chainring or I will get shifting problems?


texts: What is the difference between hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes? Are hydraulics more reliable? Or more powerful? I'm curious since, hydraulics seem to get more attention and seem to be on professional bikes.


texts:
I just replaced my rear wheel with a road tubeless (Bontrager RL TLR). Was lucky to have the bike shop installed the tyre, took two blokes to put it on the rim. Anyway, my second ride was a couple of days after I bought it and I can feel the wheel bumped a gap on the driveway. So I went back and put some more air to 90 psi.

Two days after I pumped the tyre, I checked the tyre before riding and it only had 40 psi. Is that normal for road tubeless? I only have to add air once a week with none tubeless tyre.

Follow up

I went back to the shop and they said they put enough sealant and insisted that rapid air loss is normal for tubeless. They also offered to put tube in it if it's too much a pain. Caveat, I asked how others' experience with road tubeless and they said I'm the only one with tubeless. I did see there's a stack of TLR rim strip, presumably from new Trek bikes they sold that came with Bontrager TLR wheels.

I sent a link to this question to them and trek, no response yet.

For now, I will just pump the tyres before every ride.

Edit

To clarify, my question is only about road tubeless tyres relative to road clincher, so they're both "high pressure" tyres. I actually ran the tubeless with less air (90 psi) compared to my front clincher tyre (100 psi). The reason for that was because the tubeless rim is a "wide rim" than (then) usual road wheels.

In case anyone's interested, I only have tubeless wheels now and run them with tubes because 1) losing air was too much trouble and 2) I don't think I can put on a tubeless tyre myself.


texts:
This freewheel has been giving me a lot of pain. I can't seem to move it at all with hammer & punch (clockwise). From the videos, it always seems so easy :P

So I'm going to buy a removal tool. Is the FR 1.3 compatible with this, in your opinion?

A few questions:

do I need to put the axle back in, and screw it to the removal tool?
do I need to separately remove the lockring?

What I'm doing this for is to change the ball bearings. They've already come out, so I need to clean inside, put grease and the new balls.


texts: I've mistakingly bought a pile of rubbish instead of a road bike (was going to be my first one), however, I'm determined to make the most of it and treat it like a project for me to work on. Currently it's right hand shifter is a 9 speed one (campagnolo), a broken rear derailleur (shimano) and an 8 speed cassette... with only 7 of the cog things actually present... (key words and knowledge in this area are pretty poor for me so I apologise.) I'm going to replace the derailleur, does this need to be a specific one?  And then the main question... Is it possible for me to swap to a 9 speed cassette from the 8 speed? Would this make the shifters work effectively, to save the cost of replacing them?


texts: cable tension for Shimano 105 Front derailleur is very tight

texts: I just got a merida scultura 400 and on the biggest chainring there's rubbing on the outside of the front derailleur cage. the only way that I can lower this is by tightening the cable by ALOT. is this normal on a road bike?


texts: Is shift cable protector under bottom bracket on cyclocross bike important?

texts:
I recently replaced the shifter cables on my cyclocross bike (Specialized Tricross). Both cables run exposed (not in cable housing) under the bottom bracket, through a little screwed-on plastic guide that keeps them in place.

When I removed the old cables, one of them also included a short, maybe 8-10" piece of what I would call protective plastic sheeth that kind of sat within the screwed-on plastic guide, extending for a few inches out either side. It was pretty shredded up and I decided to chuck it.

Now that I'm looking at the new cables (approx 200km riding), I'm wondering if I should have looked for a replacement for that protective sheath.

Is that protective sheath important and should I have replaced it? If so, what is it called?

The image below shows the cables right now, looking straight up at the BB, front of bike towards top of image.

I saw this similar question, but it seems like the OP there did not at any point have the protective sheath I originally had on my bike.


texts:
I am trying to work on endurance in the hopes of one day touring the GDMBR in a reasonable amount of time and after watching Ride the Divide, I noticed a lot of the riders are using aerobars. When I am training, I can ride close to 40 miles on my bike with a Specialized flat bar but I am noticing significant pain in my back, tailbone, wrists and shoulders.
Are aerobars the answer to my pain problems? My assumption (from purely a comfort viewpoint) is that aerobars allow you to shift your weight occasionally and distribute your weight differently without stopping. If so, is there a certain type of handlebar I should be looking at for a mountain bike? I would prefer an easy to install/uninstall solution because I am not always looking to have these handlebars on. Also, is adding an aerobar the proper solution or am I looking at it wrong? I am questioning bikes at the moment and would be grateful on any tips.
I have never used any other type of handlebar other than a flat bar, so please include anything that may seem incredibly obvious.
Note: I looked at this answer but those look incredibly uncomfortable for long distances and seem pointless for what I am doing.

Specifications
Bike
Specialized Myka Sport 29er
Handle Bar Specs
Specialized flat bar, alloy, 640mm & 660mm wide, 8-degree backsweep, 4-degree upsweep, 25.4mm
Full Specifications


texts: Bicycle pedaling resistance on single speed e-bike

texts:
Recently, I've bought an ebike that is about 2 months old now, I've maybe gotten 100-150 miles off of it as a daily commuter. When I pedal, it would have a lot of opposing force or friction, and pedaling harder doesn't make a difference. I've kind of deduced that the issue was purely mechanical and the hub motor had nothing to do with it since when I turned the bike off, it would do the same thing.

So essentially what happens is, it alternates, 90% of the time it would be hard to pedal and the rest of the time it operates seemingly normal. I had taken my chain off the derailleur and the problem persists. I thought maybe lack of lubrication in that tube in the bottom axle bracket of the bike that connects the pedal crank arms?

Some more details about my bike, it is a single speed, hub motor bicycle. I disconnected my brake sensors to use a road bike handlebar so I'm not sure how this factors into it. Please, anyone give your suggestions or thoughts, and thank you.

EDIT

Bike has rim brakes, not disc brakes


texts: Slipping aluminium seatpost in aluminium frame

texts:
I've already seen this question: Problems with a slipping seatpost

The main difference is that I have an aluminium frameset and a forged alloy seatpost - lightweight clamp.

After every couple hundred miles on my commuter (particularly over rougher surfaces), I've found that the seatpost slides into the frame by about half an inch or so.  After the second time I've noticed and readjusted it, I figured it might just be because I have a lightweight clamp.  I over-tightened it past the recommended torque, but alas, it happened again.  I then tightened it as far as I dared without snapping the bolt, but have now found that it has slipped another half an inch over the last 200 miles or so.

Is there some kind of paste / compound that I could use that, similar to the carbon paste, would prevent this slippage?  I asked the manufacturer and my LBS about the carbon paste, but they explained that it may not be a great help, because the carbon paste is "designed to create a small amount of swelling of the carbon" on the surface of the components, thereby improving grip.  Well, this is metal on metal, so it's different ... right?

Update: It is not oily / dirty / dusty and it is not old and worn

For completeness, I have this bike:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXRT58ALRIV22/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-sram-rival-11-road-bike

With this seatpost:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/SPPXSLT3D/planet-x-superlight-team-3d-forged-alloyseatpost

And this clamp:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/SPPXSLT3D/planet-x-superlight-team-3d-forged-alloyseatpost

Any advice other than drilling a hole through it an putting a bold in (I won't really do this) ?

Note: I tried to add a tag to the question for the correct English spelling for ALUMINIUM, but apparently I need more reputation for that.  Right ... ;-)


texts: Elastomer in bicycle trailer hitch: is it important?

texts:
I have a bicycle trailer (Hamax Outback One). Recently I inspected the hitch as I was connecting the tow bar to the bicycle. The steel spring was getting rusty, but I do not think it's a big deal. However, inside the spring there was a black cylindrical rod which I assume is made of some sort of elastomer. That part seemed to have broken into two pieces.
I started looking for a replacement or a fix for that. There are a lot of similar complete replacement hitches sold online. However, the dimensions of the parts, especially of the coupler that stays on the bike's dropout, are slightly different, meaning I'd have to replace the whole hitch and buy new couplers for multiple bikes. Alternatively, a complete new tow bar for Hamax trailers can be found, but that is more expensive and really not something that I'd need.
On the picture below, the transparent elastomer part is sticking up out from the steel spring.

The question is: how important is that for safety that the elastomer is in one piece? I assume its role is damping when the spring gets compressed at braking.
Additional question is that if anyone has done that I plan to do, that is, to buy a no-name hitch and reuse its new elastomer alone. Or maybe there are other DIY sources of the elastomer part?


texts: Disk brake brakes work poorly after annual maintainance

texts:
The disk brakes practically don't brake anymore. If I pull the brake lever as hard as I can, the wheel still turns if I push the bike forward.

Is this normal? Do they need a "brake in" period?

UPDATE: It's a mechanical brake, and the levers are properly adjusted. If I pull the brake lever, I can see the pads pressed against the rotor, but the wheel still turns slowly If I push the bike. This was not happening before.

The maintenance was done at a local bike service, I don't know exactly what they did to the brakes, but the rotor seems to be oiled up.


texts: What should I look for in a "trailer bike"/"tag-along" bike for a child?

texts: My daughter is growing fast, and will soon be too big for the child seat that is on the back of my bike.  She is not yet ready to ride on the road, so I am thinking of purchasing a "tag-along" bike.  What features should I look for, and are there anything to look out for?


texts: Is it really necessary to loosen/unmount handlebar while packing bike?

texts:
Reading multiple advice on how to pack a bike in a cardboard box for shipping, I have always read to "remove the handlebar" or alternatively "loosen it and rotate it by 90 degrees".

Since my bike has a straight handlebar (like this one)

I wonder why not simply removing the front wheel and turning the handlebar and the fork by 90 degrees?


texts: New bike wheels dont sit in dropouts perfectly, are washers safe to use?

texts:
I recently upgraded my road bike from Vision Team 30's to Mavic Ksyrium Elite UST wheels,  However once I got the wheels and put them on, the rear wheel seems to rub on the brake hardware when riding.  When I put the bike on a hanger and spin the wheel, it seems fine, but every time I ride, I can feel resistance, as if I'm riding with the brake slightly engaged.  I messed around with the quick release and found out that even with it tightened as much as humanly possible, The rear axles seem to almost be a little too short, and I think this causes them to sit slightly loose in the rear dropouts, despite the skewer being tightened all the way.  I tried using the QR skewer that came with the wheels, but it is worse than the ones that came with the Vision wheels, so I've been using them, but still have a bit of play with the rear wheel.  From the looks of it, I could throw a washer in between the axle and the frame to have it sit snug, but I'm wondering if this is safe or not? By my estimates, the gap with the new wheels is maybe 1-2mm, just about the size of a washer.

I was under the impression (not knowing much about road bikes) that all wheel axles had the same width, is this not true?

Update: photo showing washer and problem area:

It seems the washer works great.  No more wobble in the wheel, no more rubbing.


texts:
My brother recently passed away, and I'm trying to figure out how much his carbon-fiber 21-speed road bike might be worth.  There's no obvious labeling.  I've searched online... seems like key characteristics are shape/tapering of frame segments, shape of frame segment joints, location/style of ports for internal cabling.  Alas, haven't found any matches :^(.  Photo below, and many more photos at:

https://bicycle.oddotter.org/

My sincere thanks to anyone who can offer any leads/help/advice!


texts: Advisable to switch from 38 mm tires to 28 mm?

texts:
I have a urban/hybrid bike ( Riverside 500 that came with 38mm tires that I don't really have complaints with except some visible cracking since a year or so (which hasn't impacted feel, air retension or anything at all) But I have been thinking of replacing these 700x38 tires.
I can go with 38, 35, 32, 28 or 25 mm tires to replace these. I am speculating about going with 28mm as of yet.
I dont do any off-road stuff , I stick to road riding and commuting mostly on great highways but the occasional pot-hole riddled by-lane does come up , so fragility or sharp feedback is best avoided .
Which size is ideal in this scenario ?


texts: Safest way to carry luggage on my carbon frame?

texts:
I'm planning a 5 day trip on my Trek Madone 4.5. We are planning on staying motels so don't need to carry camping equipment. I need to find some type of rack that is compatible with my carbon frame - I would prefer a rack that could carry more than a seat post rack ( seat post is carbon)

I would welcome any suggestions - since this is a one off trip I would prefer not to buy a new bike.


texts: When installing a rear rack, should I attach the struts to the frame or the seat post on my small bike?

texts:
For context, the bike is a small Giant Liv Alight and the rack is a Transit Rear Rack which carries up to 40 lbs.

The distance between the mounting eyelets on the rack and the ones in the frame is about 8," while the rack-to-seat post distance is a little less.  There are struts (attachment arms) for sale which are 11".

I plan to carry close to the 40 lb maximum.  Considering the weight, would you recommend mounting the rack to the frame or the seat post?  (As a city hybrid, this set up is a downgrade from the stronger, heavier set up on my touring bike.)


texts: Bought a frame one size larger, how to fit for slightly smaller rider?

texts:
I've recently bought a frame that is about one size larger. It's a 22" frame and my height is about 5'9".

I had a choice between the 22" frame and an 18" frame so I chose the frame that was a bit larger because I had a bad experience on a frame that was too small.

What are the potential downsides to a larger frame and could it be fixed with adjustments such as a lower seat post.


texts: Charger works as I have a second battery and it charges.  The 500 watt battery displays a partial charge but does not charge and does not power bike.  I have done multiple resets without success.  It is less than one year old.


texts: I have an Lumala Trigger ATB 26" bike and I have no problems with it, but I have never felt a better bike than that either. It costs about $300 and it is a full squish with 100mm travel fork and a oyi ch 501 back suspension (I have never heard of that brand) it has 21 (3 on the front 7 on the back) gears and comes with Shimano Revoshift friction Shifters. I wanna use it for proper mt biking but I wanna know if it will hold up or if I should sell it and get a new one. thanks :)


texts: Crash-proof Laptop bags for MacBook Pro for Bicycle?

texts:
I'm thinking of getting a new bike, one with a Pannier or Cycle rack; my job requires me to travel with a Macbook Pro and there are several issues.

1). I am worried about crashing/wiping out and breaking the MBP.

Is there a recommended crash-proof bag, or a bag that securely fastens it so that it does not bang against either the side of the pannier; or when you put the bag on the floor it doesn't hit the laptop?

I've been looking at the Hardcase shell and the bags you can get for MBP at a local Apple store; however they look flimsy as hell and only appear to be there to reduce scratches.

a) Are hardcase shells (as sold in the Apple stores) designed to withstand this kind of damage?

2). The additional weight will make the bike sway around corners, when braking, or when climbing up hills.

This is a particular problem that I am unsure how to solve.  I could carry the laptop on my back, but ideally I want to move the weight from my shoulders to the pannier.

Another possible solution would be to put a counterweight in the opposite bag, but this means carrying much more weight than I need to; additionally I do not have anything to act as a counterweight.

Another possible solution is to put it on the central (top) pannier rack behind the seat and use straps, etc to securely fasten the laptop bag.

The problem with this is rain, especially if its sitting flat, it'll just collect moisture, and soak through.

I am based in the UK.


texts: Shimano FD-M191 replaced with Shimano FD-M590

texts:
just replaced Shimano front derailleur (FD-M191) to FD-M590. And problem appears, on smallest cog chain rubs lightly on left side, and on biggest cog on right side.
Just can't lower derailleur more when chain on smallest cog, cant put derailleur higher when chain on biggest cog. I think just reached limits in both directions, any ideas?
Thanks


texts: Can a greasy chain cause the chain to come off the rings?

texts:
I heard once that you should clean your chain with a light degreaser whenever it looks especially dirty or at the very least once every few months. But that doesn't account for frequency of rides or miles ridden!

I've been riding my road bike over 100 miles per week for the last month and have been meaning to clean my chain anyway... and then...

The past week my chain kept popping off the chainrings. Four times out of five it was while shifting from the small ring to the big one. I believe it also happened when accelerating from a pretty low speed, like just at the crest of a very steep hill.

I'm going to clean my chain anyway, but I'm just curious: could a very dirty chain be causing it to pop off the rings? Or could this be a problem of technique? Or do I just need a general tuneup?


texts:
I was cleaning my road bike (cannondale supersix evo) and noticed a marking on my chainstay and I'm not sure what it is. Scratching it is a little rough compared to the carbon around it. This was not there before

I did take my bike into the shop a few months ago, since the wheel was sitting really close to the non-drive side chainstay, and they said it was a non issue. This was when it only had a small scratch. Now it's turned into something like this.

Should I be concerned? I have a big ride coming up and don't wanna miss it!!

Here are some pics:


texts: I am looking at ways to deal with jeans aging prematurely due to saddle rub. While I could change clothing (not nessarily an option), as suggested in an older thread, I am wondering if there is such a thing as shorts to put over jeans than can quickly be removed. If not, has anyone experimented to see if this would help diminish the issue?


texts: Can I change from a 26 x1.95 tire to a 26 x 1.75 tire on the same rim?

texts: I want to put 26 x 1.75 tires on my mountain bike.  It currently has 26 x 1.95 tires on it.  Will the rims hold the somewhat smaller tires?


texts: What 11-32 10 speed cassettes will work with Shimano 105 5700 freehub?

texts: I have a Shimano 105 5700 10 speed hub, currently with a 12-27 cassette. I want to go to an 11-32 cassette. There is no 5700 10 speed cassette that goes beyond the 12-27. There is an Ultegra 11-32 (6700?), but i'm looking for a cheaper option. I have seen a Deore XT 10 speed 11-32 cassette, will that work? I am using a 105 long cage rear derailleur (5700-GS).


texts:
Today I got a stick wedged between my frame and tubeless valve stem. In addition to snapping the stem I widened the hole a bit.

Any suggestions on how to fix it? Current plan is to go over the whole area with some fiberglass cloth and then redrill the hole.


texts: Rear pannier bags on touring mountain bike

texts:
Why people are not using rear pannier bags on MTB for touring? Most of reports and photos I see have a saddle bag and the rest of luggage seems to go to the front of the bike.

I have done touring only on road and CX bikes before and loved rear panniers. Would it be a bad idea on MTB?


texts: How to tell if a chain is Bicycle Chain or something else?

texts:
Hello is there anyone that is able to help me?  I need to get a new chain for my little boy's quad bike and I'm unsure on what size I need to get.

Its a 50cc mini motor quad bike. I have looked online but says all different numbers of links and the one that is on it already is too small as I bought it off some bloke who didn't have a clue what he was doing.


texts: Cyclocross Frames and Disc Brake Compatibility?

texts:
I'm looking for some guidance on how to determine if a certain disc brake is compatible with a certain cyclocross frame.

Specifically, here is my particular situation.  I have an extra set of Spyre TRP brakes (and wheel set with matching rotors).  I'm looking to get a carbon frame direct from a Chinese manufacturer and build a bike, preferably from Dengfu since they seem to have a very good reputation and have been around for quite a while now.

Originally I was interested in the FM286:

http://dengfubikes.com/Cyclo_Cross/112.html

But that frame is not available in the size I would need until another production run can be produced, which will be about a 3 month wait.  Dengfu does have their older cyclocross frame available in the size I'm looking for, the FM059:

http://dengfubikes.com/Cyclo_Cross/110.html

I'm really not concerned with the 50 gram weight difference, but I would prefer the FM286 due to the newer style front derailleur mount.

Anyhow, my question is how universal is the compatibility of disc brakes to frames?  Would the Spyre TRP Cs fit both frames in the front and the rear?  I notice with the older style frame (the FM059) the rear caliper mount is on the bottom of the seat stay, but on the newer frame (the FM286) the rear caliper mounts are towards the rear of the chain stay.  Does this matter as far as rear caliper compatibility?  Please advise, thanks!


texts: What to do when a car turns into a side road (etiquette)?

texts:
If a car is turning right onto a side road and not an intersection, what must I do?

Perhaps I am 25 feet/7.5 meters (and another cyclist just passed the car that's turning right), should I

A) Try to speed up to clear the car?

B) Slow down to let the car pass?

I live in Ontario, Canada, and am also driving with traffic. Evidently the first choice is more risky. What if cyclists are behind me; what if there aren't?


texts: Which kind of bicycles is better and comfortable for shorter communtes, 4-5 km daily

texts:
This kind straight handles

or this kind?


texts: I've bought a road bike for my wife. The bike size is 45cm or XXS. The problem is, the frame is high for my wife. Can I change the rim from 700c to 650 to reduce the problem? For info, my wife height is 155cm and her inseam is 68cm.


texts:
I recently fell off a roof, lost quite a bit of skin from my elbow, which broke the fall, and that made me think: if I took a fall from my bike, how would I land? I would more than likely try to use my hands to break the fall, but my hands are unprotected.

In addition, winter is coming, and soon my hands will be freezing as I ride my bike. Therefore, are there any protective gloves that I can wear? I'm looking for something relatively inexpensive but something that would also give my hands (and fingers) a decent bit of protection should they kiss the concrete/asphalt. Therefore I don't want any gloves with finger holes ... those seem a bit pointless.


texts: Chain clicks when the back wheel is in highest and lowest gears

texts:
When I have my back wheel gears in either the lowest gear or highest gear, my chain clicks as I pedal.

How do I fix this?


texts:
What should one look for when purchasing spin shoes?

I will mainly be using these for indoor spin classes and occasionally on a road bike.


texts: Should I use an already master-linked chain or add a masterlink to a plain chain?

texts:
Trying to find moderately-priced 9-speed chain is a pain, particularly with a master/missing link already installed. I can only find PC-971 master-linked chains from US market but shipping and handling ruins the deal. Then, I can find master links (like here) but haven't yet found a chain. Also, the seller will sometimes only ship to a limited number of countries.

How would you buy if you wanted a master-linked 9-speed chain? Would you buy the chain and the link separate or together like in PC-971?


texts: Replacing multiple spokes (9/36): more like replacing spokes or rebuilding a wheel?

texts:
I've never built a wheel and while I'd like to learn one day I'm not going to learn on this one.

On Saturday my rear wheel ate my derailleur (and bent the steel hanger in the process)*.  No spokes broke at the time. After straightening the hanger I fitted the RD of my MTB (both are Shimano 9 speed) and it worked quite well.  After about 130 km I heard a ping, and shortly afterwards the broken spoke snagged the chain and I came to a sudden stop.  20 km gently home and I go to change the spoke (it's a tourer, came with 3 spares). When I get the cassette off I find another has gone, and all 9 of those that come outwards on the drive side are damaged.

So clearly 9 spokes need replacing.  Is it reasonable to buy 9 new spokes and lace them in and tension them one by one then true the wheel?  Or is that a stupid idea? I've got time to spend on the former approach as getting the wheel to a shop is a considerable hassle.

* there are some pictures on Strava for anyone who's interested in that bit.


texts:
After 300 km GX Eagle chain is at 0.5% wear which indicates to me I have to buy a new chain?
Is this normal? How to prevent it or advice for better chains?
I mostly drive MTB in the woods in Belgium in a dunes area. So a lot of very short and steep climbs and descents (think 50/100m). My gear ratio on a 34 tooth chainring is mostly on the 3 smallest and on climbs on the 3 biggest. I am running SRAM Eagle SX derailleur, with NX cassette and GX chain.
My bike gets washed almost every ride with me also cleaning the chain, cassette, sprockets and chainring from dirt. If I don't wash the bike it's because it's not dirty.
How I wash the drivetrain:

use garden hose to sprinkle of the biggest dirt from chain
clean chainring and sprockets with toothbrush
clean cassette with larger brush
use 2 nail brushes and let chain run in between
use garden house to get remaining dirt of
use an old rag and clean/dry chainring and sprockets
use old rag and thoroughly rub chain back and forth to dry it.
lube chain with a drop on each roller
go through a few gear high and low to let lube sink in.

Lubing with is done with wet lube since there is a lot of rain lately.
Any advice on better more lasting chains or does somebody have a similar experience and a possible solution?


texts: How to store bicycles outside during winter

texts:
Okay. I have a bike which I would like to store for around six moths. Winter temperatures can be as low as -30 C. The problem is that I do not have an indoor storage space, so it is going to reside on a balcony. We also have lots of snow.

So, my plan is:
1. Inflate tires to max
2. Greasing
3. Wrap bike in plastic wrap.

Any suggestions?


texts: Is a tire patch kit really necessary for urban commute?

texts:
I'm cycling for urban commute, on well-maintained roads and bike paths, Vittoria Randonneur "puncture resistant" tires, and at no point on my ride am I more than 1/2 mile (usually within 1/4, I bet) from a bike shop.  I also presume that I'll never be without a wallet and cell phone and am in a city with good public transport.

Given that, is there really a reason to bother carrying a patch kit or extra tube with me?


texts: Legality of opening someone else's car door?

texts:
This is in the context of having just been involved in a near miss with the car. And only applies at traffic lights whereby the car is stationary very soon after the near miss. So, generally the near miss is to do with the car pulling across a cycle lane shortly before a set of traffic lights.

If their window is open it's easy to speak to the driver in order to elicit a response to "Do you know you nearly just hit me?". If their window is closed it's more difficult.

Knocking on the window is one option, and if that's ignored I've been tempted before now to simply open the door. Simply to prevent them from driving away before I've made them aware of their mistake.

So, my question is: is it legal, in the UK, to do so? The question of whether or not it's sensible to do so is one for another time.


texts:
I made a bit of a boast in the office a couple of days ago when it was suggested that I ride into work, it's a 13 mile trip one way.

My boss is a bit of a MAMIL, and has cycled quite a bit, to him 13 miles is a walk in the park.

My bike is a £70 jobby from Halfords, only really used perhaps once or twice a year for going on a short bike ride with the kids.

I also have a very sedentary job and am sat at the computer 8 hours a day, I used to be fit 20 years ago as I was in the forces but since leaving, the only excercise I have done is one 10Km run (as a bet) about 8 years ago, and today I'm nursing the effects of riding 29.5 miles on a bone shaker in flip flops.

Problem is, I liked it and want to do this, initially once a week but want to build up to several times a week.

Any advice on what I should buy to make my life easier?


texts:
I recently took my bike in for a service and they told me that the hub and bearings had worn out and they needed to be replaced. I took the wheel off and rotated the bolt thing going through the center and there was a bit of a grinding feel. I took it apart and cleaned it up and it didn't look so bad

Its a bit hard to focus on such a small item but it seems to have an ok mirror shine and I only found a few minor scratches on some of the balls

If I apply new grease to this and put it back together should I expect it to work fine or is it actually in need of replacement?


texts: How to get a replacement rear axle for a Giant ATX 2

texts:
I need to replace the rear axle for my Giant ATX 2. See my related question.
How to I get one? I found some links on Amazon, but I am not sure they would fit or about the quality of them. I need an extra strong axle so it doesn't break again. (I am over 200 lbs.)
The hub itself seems like it is in good condition.
How do I order the correct axle?
edit: I ended up fixing the axle at my local bike store. it works like new now. it wasn't expensive, only $50 including labor and parts, but it took about two weeks due to the sudden increase of customers at the bike stores due to the corona


texts:
Update -

As Daniel pointed out in the comments below, this is an unusual type of roller cam brake that is fixed to the fork using a single bolt through the fork rather than cantilever fixings

I have found two examples of roller cam brakes that uses a single bolt - Odyssey Bulldog and Dia Compe Big Dog - but both seem to have been discontinued for a long time

I will leave this question as unanswered a little longer in case anyone know of other brands that make these brakes that are currently available

I have a long reach brake that I've put on a refurbished old Chinese bike, it looks fantastic and it's a perfect fit for the old fork and new 700c wheel combo that needs about 95 mm reach

I am looking to refurbish another old bike, but I can't seem to find this type of brake anywhere. The one that I have came from the Taiwanese stockist Ducas (www.ducas-bike.com), but they no longer have it in stock and they have not been able to help me find one somewhere else

Any help identifying this type of brake or a good long reach alternative (I need at least 95 mm) would be much appreciated


texts: What does "2×4" refer when talking about food?

texts:
This post repeatedly uses "2×4" when referring to food eaten on a long, multiday tour. I suspect it's a shorthand for nutritional guidelines when planning meals but it's hard to Google for. What does this refer to?

  Our route headed past Devil’s Punch Bowl and climbed into the clouds powered by the 2×4 of eggs, hashbrowns, bacon and stack of pancakes

http://tenspeedhero.com/features/crush-the-coast/


texts: Hi friends I have a hercules roadeo a100 and I want to install a disc brake to it. It comes with a disc brake in front and v brake in rear. So can I install a disc brake to it and how much it costs.


texts: I have 2 chainrings in the front and I think 3 gears for the LHS shifter. How do I know visually if I'm in the middle gear when looking down?

texts:
When I look down when I think I'm in the middle gear, I see the chain on the big chain ring but isn't the big chain ring for when I'm in downhill mode?

Basically, what does middle gear look like on 2 chainrings?

Bike details: Giant Contend 2, The front is a FSA Tempo, 34-50T

I'm really new to cycling be gentle.


texts: Switching the position of brake levers for a bike ordered from another country

texts:
I purchased a bike from Germany and I noticed the front brake lever is on the left and the back brake level is on the right. I'm from the UK, and all the bikes I've ever ridden have had a setup that's opposite to this.

It looks like the only way I can solve this would be to pull the brake wires out from their cables, and run them back through the levers again. This means I may need to cut the end of each brake wire.

I'm wondering if there is an easier way to do this? For example, working from the levers and unhooking the top part of the brake wires? I remember when I used to repair my bikes as a teen, there was a part that I'd hook and unhook, but not 100% sure this was something to do with the brakes.

I haven't worked on, or ridden a bike since I was a teen. I'm going to buy some tools to carry out this work, but just wanted to know how to easily switch over the brake order.

Thanks in advance


texts: Is it possible to accurately measure airspeed on a bike, and is it useful?

texts:
So riding into a 15mph headwind at 15mph, your airspeed would presumably show as 30mph. In no wind, airspeed of 15mph.

What would the airspeed be if cycling at 15mph with a 15mph crosswind?

And would viewing airspeed be at all useful to a training cyclist, apart from relatively determining what the wind speed is? The only reason I'm even thinking about it is because so don't have a power meter. :)


texts: How to lock up a bike with a rear wheel lock?

texts:
Really did try searching for this but couldn't find an answer. I'm getting a bike with a rear wheel lock like this:

Since the rear wheel is locked to the frame then would securing the front wheel and frame to a solid object with a ulock/chain be enough? Bike is around $1500 in the US, higher than average larceny in my city but not known for bike theft. Here are my options

1) Rear wheel lock + ulock or chain around the front wheel, frame, and bike rack = 2 locks in total

2) Rear wheel lock + chain around rear wheel, frame, and bike rack + pitlock skewer for the front wheel = 2 locks + skewer

3) Rear wheel lock + chain around rear wheel, frame, and bike rack + ulock around the front wheel and frame = 3 locks in total

4) Rear wheel lock + chain around rear wheel, frame, and bike rack + ulock around the front wheel and frame + pitlock skewers on the front wheel, saddle, everything


texts:
As I was browsing Youtube for cycling related videos, this one on making your own tubeless setup caught my eye.

The procedure is essentially as follows:

Clean a standard rim (not for tubeless tires, which has rimtape installed)
Fit a 20" tube on a 29" wheel
Split the tube along the seam of the tube so that it covers the edges of the rim
Clean the chalk (used for manufacturing the tube so it doesn't stick to itself) out of the tube
Install a standard tire (designed for tubes) on top of the split tube (so the edges of the split tube cover the rim), and pump it up to see if it seals well enough
Add sealant and shake the tire up as usual, trim the excess 20" tube off the rim.

I can see why this works to some extent [ the tube prevents air escaping through the edges of the rim as well as towards the spokes ], but I am curious about a few aspects of this:

Why doesn't air escape through the standard tire? Presumably the tire itself is somewhat porous to keep the weight down (since only the tube needs to be air tight but the tire itself does not). I'd also guess the tube on tire contact isn't very good at low pressure, but the pressure may be high enough and the interface between the tube and tire nice enough.
Why does the tire not roll over the rim at mountain biking pressures? Presumably theres less area and mechanism for the tire to grip onto the rim, and I'd expect a sew-up tire-like roll off, especially on rough terrain, or at least the seal to give out.

Now, I'm not recommending anyone try this (including myself), but it does seem like some people have used this successfully. In the unlikely event that someone has actually tried a setup like this, I'm somewhat curious as to what the results were as well (but I'm not trying to primarily solicit opinion-based answers).


texts: Will I damage anything by not replacing my clicking bottom bracket?

texts:
I have a Specialized 2010 Sirrus Sport with a sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket that makes a clicking noise.

If I don't have it replaced, will I be harming anything apart from the bottom bracket itself?


texts:
I have cleated shoes. My feet do a lot of work floor miles and get I pain in ball of my foot. I feel like the cleat is pushing on the ball of my foot.

I was considering changing the shoe liner; would this help or not? I have N.W foot wear, they are at least 6 month old.


texts: Inner tube valve cut from stretched rim tape?

texts:
I was trying to fix my sisters flat tire to make some money by charging her fees cheaper than the bike shop.

I found the leak to be on the actual valve piece. Near the base there is a small cut looking to have generated from wear and tear. Looking at the bike wheel rim it came from the rim tape was stretched into an oval around the hole, with one side of the metal hole exposed to rub against the inner tube valve (presumably what caused the cut).

Only parts of the rim tape were stuck to the rim so I assumed it was meant to move and completely ran a finger beneath it all the way around... On the opposite side of the rim tape next to the whole where the valve piece is threaded through is a fold where the rubber rim strip has gathered around that side of the hole as it stretched.

I tried putting some tape around the cut on the inner tubes valve stem as a quick fix, but overnight the tube deflated somewhat.
Instead of just replacing the inner tube (I assume this would only work for a while given the issue has not been addressed) I was wondering what would be the best fix?

Bearing in mind she will probably only pay me $10.


texts:
For my new job I'll have to commute about 10 - 20km (6 - 12mi) each day (one trip) in flat terrain. Right now, I'm commuting 6km/4mi each day, with an elevation gain of 160m uphill to work.

I'm riding a hybrid bicycle with a gear hub (only one gear lever) and a straight handle bar.

I assume that for my new route, a more aerodynamic position would be nice and I'm pondering about a better handlebar choice -- drop handlebars or tri bars as addition to my straight handlebar? Is it just a matter of personal preference, or are there general pros and cons?

The route will be mostly on a seperate bike lane next to a road with little traffic.


texts: Why do I keep getting cut looking flats?

texts:
My flats are causing some deep confusion.

In the last year I've replaced at least 12 inner tubes because I keep getting flats. They are not puncture or pinch flats, they look like cuts to the tube, sometimes small incisions sometimes long gashes. They're always  the back tire on the side facing the hub and they're usually close to the valve.

Tubes only last a couple of rides and it seems to be getting worse. I took the wheel to a shop recently hoping to gain some insight into the problem and the guy replaced the rim tape and put a new tube in and it went flat on the walk home. I tried a heavier duty 'hybrid' bike tube, and that only lasted one ride. What happens is I'll ride it once or a couple of times and either during the ride or more often at home later, after the bike has been sitting for some time, I'll hear a hissss and it's flat. When I examine the tube there's a hole that looks like a slice near the valve.

Anyone have any clue what could be going on or what to do about it? I'm thoroughly confused.Could it be a poorly designed rim? I thought it had something to do with the rim being too narrow and that putting excessive pressure on the tube. Only thing is I can't figure out why it would pop when the bike is at rest.


texts: Recommendations on how to make grips more comfortable?

texts:
I find that on longer rides on my Trek FX3 that my palms (particularly my right palm) go numb from the pressure I am exerting on them.  I appreciate that part of this is related to my posture and the need to strengthen my core muscles.  Was wondering if there are any suggestions or recommendations on what I can do to make things a bit more comfortable?

I have tried a pair of gel padded gloves but this does not seem to make any difference.

Update

Below is an image of grips:

This weekend I paid more attention to when my palm went numb and it is definitely towards bottom outer half where the numbness starts. Basically where my palm rests on the "Satellite" section of the grip.  Makes me wonder if I should try to adjust the angle which the Satellite sits.  This will potentially stop my wrists from bending upwards and encourage more even distribution of weight on the palms.

Update 2

After adjusting the saddle height/position and tilting the grips downwards to about a 45 degree angle I have noticed a huge improvement and my hands do not go numb anymore.


texts: Shimano Altus 9x3 speed shifter leaver is soft

texts:
I’m having trouble with my rear shifter lever. When I go to push the lever in to go through the gears it’s just soft and doesn’t go back to its original position.

Any ideas what’s this could be and how I can fix it. It’s a new bike I just bought a week ago and the drivetrain is Shimano Altus I know they aren’t the best but couldn’t resist the price of the bike.


texts:
I am planning on throwing a challenge to create a bamboo frame for a unicycle, but to declare a winner I shall test some endurance criteria.

The frame should be able to withstand this kind of tension:

The problem is that I don't know which tests I can set up to try the frames endurance repeatedly and reliably.

Do you think there is any low-tech test I can make to test this?

Thanks a lot in advance,
Jaime


texts: Enhancing brake force with steel rims in wet conditions?

texts:
I currently own an old racing bike, that still has ripped steel rims and a side pull caliper brake. The braking power is acceptable when the street is dry, but as soon as it gets wet (even morning dew) it is getting harder and harder to stop. On the first time stopping, the brakes might even need up to 3 seconds until I feel something, and I have to pull the handles quite hard.
This was not a problem in summer, but since the weather is rainy most of the time now, I have to find a solution.

The whole Bike cost me 50€, so buying new brakes or rims might not be in the budget. I heard about cork brake pads, that might provide better stopping power when wet, but only found very expensive ones. So if there is another solution, that I missed now, please let me know!

Else I will have to ride one of my more expensive Bikes in the winter and have the risk of them getting stolen.


texts:
I have a 20" bike with a single 42T chainring and a 6-speed sprocket. The top speed is pretty low (I'm used to racing bikes), calculated to be ~24kph @90 RPM.
I've measured the 5-arm distance between mounting bolts and it seems to be 68-69mm. This looks like a 120mm BCD, but not sure on that. I can't seem to find manufacturer data, except Cyclone SP5.

I think I need a 52 or 53T chainring, how should I search for one? What would be the cheapest option, given that the bike is practically new but with low-end components?

EDIT: added images to the original post, for reference


texts: I know I need to keep the disks clean on my bike, but if I've got them covered in grease, what should I clean them with?


texts: What type of shoes should I get with regular pedals

texts:
I have never been more than a casual rider, maybe 5 miles at a time. I signed up for a 500 mile multi-day bike event that i need to train for and was thinking about getting real bike shoes due to more energy transfer to the pedals. I just have regular simple platform pedals now. so would it even make sense to get special shoes with hard soles if I don't have regular pedals?

Thanks!


texts: What is the purpose of the plastic disk between the cassette and the rear wheel?

texts:
There's a plastic disc between the cassette and rear wheel on my bicycle. It doesn't seem to have any effect on the actual drivetrain; but I've seen it on a number of bicycles.

What is it for?


texts: Any companies out there that given a carbon frame could replicate it?

texts: I snapped my frame and I really liked the bike setup I had. Is there a company out there that will make a carbon framed based on one provided.


texts: Does the diameter difference between road and mountain bike handlebars make some bikes incompatible?

texts:
I'm shopping around for a new set of handlebars, I want to give trekking bars (aka butterfly bars) a try.  They're reasonably cheap so I'm willing to dive in as an experiment.  I'm wondering though, mountain bike handlebars have a greater diameter than road bike bars do from what I read.

Should I be concerned whether or not a new set of handlebars I buy will fit in the handlebar stem of my bike frame properly?

If it helps anyone, I have a windsor tourist touring bicycle, and the handlebars I'm looking at are these.

Thanks everyone!


texts: Which upgrades are required for participate in cycle race?

texts:
I want to take part in cycle race, so for that I upgrade my bicycle to 18 gear. (It was not shipped with gears)
Here is my cycle STREET RACER NE 26T. (this is the same model I've, but size may be different)

Is it good idea to use upgraded cycle in race or I should buy new one on which gears are pre installed?

Here is my event detail
Vishal Khadi BRM - 200 and here 200 BRM on 16-Jul-2017

Also is this type of bicycle is ok for this type of race event or I need other one?

Here are some personal detail
I am riding around 20km (in 1 hour) in working days.
40-45 km in weekends and it take aprox 1 to 1.5 hour.
Max speed I rode was 42km / hour (in trafic)

This is first time I am taking part in cycle race event, so how should I start practice for this event?


texts: What is the length of the Hope XC internal spacer from freehub to bearing?

texts: I think I have a worn spacer as it has ragged edges.   Does anyone have the length of this spacer when new?


texts: How to buy machine-built wheels for a touring bike?

texts:
I may be in the market for a wheelset for my touring bike, a 2004 Jamis Aurora. I know very little about buying wheels; what are the things I should consider? I don’t need anything fancy, and I’d like to keep the cost down, so machine-built (as opposed to hand-built) seems like the logical choice.

I run fairly wide tires, 28-35mm.

The answer “don’t buy machine-built wheels” would also be perfectly valid; I’d be curious to hear the reasoning in this case. I spent a good bit of time on rec.bicycles about 10 years ago, and that community was really down on machine-built wheels.


texts: What is the best bicycle lock on the market?

texts:
What is the best bicycle lock on the market, defined by:

Best security
Easiest usability when securing your bike
Easiest method of transport
Lightest without other compromises

Edit:

In addition, what do you think of the lock design below? Secure? Transportable? Would you use it if you had it? Is there something else that you would prefer, or something about it that would keep you from using it?

Edit 2:

I am looking for a way to convince my roadie friends that securing a bike on a long ride for lunch stops/etc is doable and practical. The weight is a killer, and they just won't buy it. That's also why I'm not just doing something like one of the Kryptonite Chains or a U lock.

This question was inspired by this Kickstarter project. No relation to me. I just think it's cool.


texts:
Yesterday I checked my brake pads and noticed that the wear is uneven: much more on the left side, much less on the right side (both front and rear wheel).

This is how they look:

The left ones have almost reached the wear line, while the right one no.
I never noticed any problem with braking.

Is there anything I should check?

When I installed them I made sure that the distance from the rim is the same on both sides and that when I pull the brake lever they are both engaged.


texts: Does anyone recognize this titanium frame?

texts:
I bought this titanium frame some time ago. No markings, only the serial number on the bottom bracket. The 84 probably stands for 1984 as the bike was fitted with Campy's 50th Anniversary gruppo. The BB is Italian threaded.
Any ideas?


texts: Chain keeps slipping on in-hub geared bike. Stretched chain?

texts:
I have an Avanti Discovery 8, which is a mid-range hybrid bike with Shimano in-hub gears. I ride about 20klms a day on bike paths so whilst it gets a work out, it never really gets much bad abuse. I've owned it about a year.

Yesterday I found that the chain would slip and catch occasionally when I was applying torque, like going up a hill. When I got home I checked all the links in the chain were flexing, moved the rear wheel back a few millimeters to tighten the chain, and tightened the crank (it was a little loose and wiggling a few mil) and re-oiled the chain. I also ensured the gears were aligned.

Next morning the bike felt fine until halfway to work then the slipping started again and increased as I rode. It got so bad that by the time I reached work I could no longer ride. Every stroke the chain slipped.

I can't figure out why this could be. It's not the gears, as there is no derailleur. Could it be the chain is actually stretched?


texts: Swapping parts from old bike to new frameset

texts: I have a Piave (around 2009-ish year) road bike with a frame that has become to small for me. It has pretty good components i.e Shimano Ultegra and threadless stem etc. There is a 2014 S-Works Venge frameset being sold and I was wondering, could I swap all my components (bar the fork, seatpost, BB, headset) Onto this new frame if I needed to? I have looked around to try find the sizes of things to make sure they fit but haven't found a lot. Any help?


texts: What are the ESSENTIAL tools to do a basic strip and rebuild?

texts:
I can't currently afford to pay someone to give my bike a complete strip and rebuild (I need a wheel rebuild, which is essential, so I am paying for that this month!)

So, given I have a hybrid, disc brakes, shimano crankset, I think all bearings are cartridge...what are the ESSENTIAL tools I need to do the job myself.

I already have:
Full set allen keys,
Screwdrivers of various sizes,
Mole wrench (adjustable/lockable),
Pedal spanner,
General spanners/all-in-one cycle spanner,
Grease and oil,
Pliers.

I don't have:
Bottom bracket removal tool,
Work stand.

I am not a bike mechanic (hence not having many tools) but willing to give each part of the strip down a go - one at a time...so headset one weekend, front hub next etc.


texts:
I'm in a market for new 700c road wheels and noticed that, in addition to usual clincher and tubular, some companies sell rims in hookless variant. They don't seem to be significantly lighter compared to clinchers (both listed as 400g by manufacturer of my choice).

What are benefits and drawbacks of hookless rims over clinchers?

Update: I've decided to leave the answer open until wheelset in question is built and tested, as my own experience might be enough for another answer.


texts: How do I get/check if carbon wheels are tubeless compatible

texts:
I have fake Zipp 404 and Continental GP4000 SII tubular on it. It is time to change it.
The question is how do I know if this wheels

a) without removing
b) with removing

tubeless compatible or not?


texts: BB92 (Shimano bottom bracket) with SRAM 30mm crankshaft (X01 or XX1 BB30)?

texts:
The frame that I want to build has BB92 bottom bracket hole.

The drivetrain I want to use is 1x11 SRAM XX1 or X01 with 30mm crankshaft (BB30)(edit: also available GXP).

There are ways to fit it - directly pressing these bearings (or similar from other manufacturers) into the frame so the 30mm shaft will fit.

The question is will it fit also length-wise (will length of shaft be compatible) or same spacers are necessary and is the solution a good one (prone to squeaking, no bad experience with such setup etc.)?

Edit:
Other possibility is to use GXP X01 or XX1 crankset. Since those spindles are stepped it wont work with BB92 shimano bottom bracket, but will fit with GXP BB92 press-fit bearing cups (which is similar solution to the firts one)

Which solution is the better one?


texts: How to prevent spiders from making webs on my bike?

texts: I really hate spiders and I'm afraid of them so this is really a problem for me. I use bike every day to get everywhere - to work, to shop etc. These nasty things can make a web in a matter of a few hours here (Cambridge, UK) - almost every morning when I want to get to work there is a web, almost every afternoon when I want to go home there is a web. Sometimes there is even a spider. It's really annoying and terrifying. I found this: How can I keep spiders and other bugs off my bicycle? but it wasn't really helpful. I was thinking about spraying my bike with Raid or something, or maybe spraying it with some kind of water solution with washing liquid and essential oils (I read that some of them repel spiders). Do you have any advice on this? Or maybe at least some advice on dangerous fluids for my bike that I shouldn't use for this? (Like water makes my bike rusty)


texts: How can I stop my shifters slipping when climbing?

texts:
I'm having trouble with my rear mech and/or shifters. Under heavy load (say, when climbing) the rear mech is slipping. The two photos below show my shifters before and after a climb. I've not touched the gears during the climb, the shifter slips and I just change gear.

What would cause this? I didn't think putting power through the drive train would push/pull the mech.


texts: Is there a way to calculate the correct bicycle tire pressure?

texts:
I have 57-559 (57 mm width, 559 mm diameter) / 26"x2.125" tires.
I weigh about 95 kg / 210 lbs.
The tire's sidewall shows a single pressure value of 300 kPa / 43 psi.

However, this calculator shows that given a fixed tire size, different rider + bike weights would have different optimal tire pressures.

Is there a way to calculate such an optimal pressure?


texts: Identify this Bianchi as much info as possible please

texts:
Hi I have a bianchi of which I have the serial # starting with 6634xxxx if that helps identify year and/or model.
**excuse the mess in the background-- it looks bad sorry


texts: I'd like to adjust the reach (distance from the drop bars to the brake levers) on my Ultegra 6510 levers.  The Shimano instructions don't mention the ability to adjust this at all, which seems odd to me, since even basically junk mountain bike levers are adjustable in this way. Is there a way to adjust this on these levers? Is it "normal" for road levers to not be reach adjustable, or is this just a Shimano thing? From searching around a bit, it looks like you can use "Specialized Slim Shims." Is that the way people typically adjust the reach? Anyone have any better "home-brew" way to make them adjustable?


texts: Cannot raise V-brake blocks high enough to align with wheel rim

texts:
After adjusting my V-brake blocks to their highest setting on the lever, they still do not align with the wheel rim (they sit half on, half off).

Is there any thing I can do about this, or is it an incompatibility between the wheel size and fork?


texts: Size of Pedal Threading on old German Glockenlager?

texts:
I removed the pedals of a Göricke bike from 1934 or 1935 (according to the bike number). It has a Glockenlager (What is that in English? Bell shaped bottom bracket?) as seen in the picture. The crank threading for the pedals however is quite messed up and I would like to re-cut it. I measured 4 threads at about 4,8mm (or 4,9mm) with an 14,2mm external diameter on the pedals. The diameter is a tipical 9/16 pedal threading, but the thread steapness only results in about 20-21 threads per inch, and not 24. 24 is the normal amount of threads per inch for pedals.

EDIT: I noticed 20 tpi is normal and not 24 tpi. Therefore it should be a normal threading.

Is this some other threading they used in these days or shall I just cut it with a normal pedal thread cutter? The pedal make is K&B (the logo is in a cloveleaf)


texts: How do I choose a replacement Derailleur?

texts: I have a Psycle Werks downhill-bike and the derailleur got bent and cracked I need it to get replaced does anyone know or have any suggestions on where I can get a new one or what I should do?


texts: Is a leather saddle appropriate for all-weather riding?

texts: In our climate, it rains pretty steadily for 3 seasons. Would a leather saddle (like a Brooks) be appropriate for my bike, or should I look for a different material?


texts:
I hit the edge of a cone yesterday when biking and had a pretty hard fall. Was looking at my bike to see what damage it took. Saw this crack on the rim, is this something really serious that I should be worried about? Last thing I want is to take another hard fall
This is the bike I have. https://archive.fujibikes.com/2010/Fuji/roubaix-acr-20


texts: After a loose bottom bracket and some prevailing knee pain I have made a few adjustments to the bike. I have managed to greatly reduce the pain in my left knee but the right still has some pain. I have noticed that since the bottom bracket came loose that my right foot if positioned the same as my left  will knock against the crank arm. I have to perch my foot on the edge of the pedal. I'm not sure whether this is something that could be attributed to a bending of the crank arm or something else?


texts:
Quick question. I have a lower quality mountain bike with a bad suspension fork. Overall the bike isn't bad. It fits me well and I have a lot of fun on it. I would like splurge on a new mountain bike but that just isn't a priority right now (but a cross bike would be pretty nice...).

So I was thinking that maybe what I should do is look around for a new fork. My general bike knowledge is pretty good but I know almost nothing about forks. I was hoping that someone could point me to a good reference on what I need to know before I buy a fork.

I think that buying a new fork probably isn't a good deal. I think for that price I should just buy a new bike. I would ideally like to spend around $100 but I would spend up to $200.  I suspect that this puts me in the used fork category.

Key features I would like out of my new fork:

Cold weather riding: my fork currently goes stiff at 5C
Lighter
Better traction/handling
More fun
Other - I have never ridden a better fork so "other"

Links:

Picture of my current bike (for context)
Brief description of my bike
Link to same question on Reddit


texts: Does a bike exist that is both very light and does not need to be ridden in a hunched over position?

texts:
I have a spinal injury that prevents me from lifting anything heavier than about 10 lbs (4.5 kg), and prevents me from being in a hunched over position, without causing myself extreme and lingering (for weeks or months) pain. I miss biking. I am wondering if there exists a bike that is both very light, but also allows for riding in an upright sitting position? So far my searches have turned up nothing.

It's possible I just have to resign myself to not being able to bike anymore, but I am hoping that there is some niche build or light bike that could be modified out there that might be suitable that I have missed in my research so far.

EDIT: the bike does not need to be less than 10 lbs (4.5 kg). I just wanted to give perspective on the necessity for low weight. I weigh about 170 lbs (77 kg)


texts: Why would my rear brake pads wear faster than front?

texts:
It has already been established that most of braking power comes from front brake. Now, several times that I have been replacing brake pads on my commuter cyclocross bike I have noticed that rear pads are worn out but front still have some rubber in them. Does this happen to anyone else, and why would this happen?
The brakes are Shimano cantilevers, previously I had no-brand min-V's that did the same.


texts: How can I teach an 18 year old girl to ride again? (Not ridden since 7)

texts:
How can I teach an 18 year old girl to ride a bicycle again after she has stopped riding at the age of 7 due to crashing into a tennis net and getting scared about cycling. She's 1.6 m (Approx 5' 3"). She's scared of getting on the bike and is scared of falling off. Finds it hard to balance.

How can I also get her over the fear of crashing on a bicycle?


texts: What large chainrings are compatible with Shimano FC6603 crankset?

texts:
On my race bike I have a crankset FC6603. I want to replace my outer chain ring (My inner and middle chainrings are OK).

But I cannot find an online store where they sell the outer chainring of this series. The middle and inner ring are available on the online stores, but not the outer chainring.

Maybe the outer ring isn't be produced anymore?
Which series (with an available outer chain ring) is compatible with the series FC6603?


texts: Add-on Aero Bars to an Already Aero Handlebar

texts:
I've recently upgraded from a Specialized Allez to a (3T Strada Pro Force).  I took it on its first long ride (56 miles) and my, already bad, wrists really suffered.  I changed hand positions as often as I could, but it was still an uncomfortable ride.  On my Allez, I have a set of Profile Airstryke aero bars which have been great because being in an aero position takes the pressure off my wrists.

The 3T Strada Pro comes with Aeronova Aero Handlebars.  With them having a flatter shape, I'm not sure if there are any add-on aero bars, like the Airstrykes, that can attach to this handlebar.

Although I enjoy riding in the aero position, I do it more for comfort and hand position options than I do for aerodynamics.  Are there any add-on aero bars that I can purchase that will fit this type of handlebar?


texts: I am putting drop bars on one of my MTB Shimano 10 speed 1x Deore. I am looking for a road hydro shift lever

texts:
I will be putting road drop bars on one of my mtb's for this coming winter as a project that has Shimano 10 speed 1x Deore.
My goal is to "simply" have road shift levers and hydraulic brakes with good shifting and braking performance.
Here is my setup can some tech cyclist help me figure out my cheapest options? All the different leverage ratios for 10 speed across mountain and road (and now GRX) gets quite confusing. I would like to stay 10sp.
Thanks !!!
Here is the bike and I have 5 other (1 road, 2 gravel, 2 other fs mtb's currently built up with too many frames to count) so this is going to be my only e-bike:
https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/20-nail-trail-e1
Current Setup:

SHIFT LEVER: Shimano Deore 10sp
DERAILLEUR REAR: Shimano Deore Shadow Plus 10-Speed
CASSETTE: SunRace 10-Speed, 11-46T (I would like to be able to have that large of a cassette still)
BRAKES: Shimano BR-MT201 Hydraulic Disc, 203mm Rotor


texts:
I want to upgrade some gear parts on my current bike, which is a Fuji Panic 3.0
I don't really know if it will be compatible though.
The bike: http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2006&brand=Fuji&model=Panic+3.0

Parts i will be equipping/replacing with:

Shimano Alivio ST-M4000 Shifters 3 x 9-speed
Shimano Deore RD-M592 rear derallieur MTB SGS
Shimano Deore FD-M590 front derallieur Top Swing OR FD-M591 Down Swing
Shimano Alivio CS-HG300 Cassette 9-speed
Shimano Alivio FC-M4000 Crankset MTB 40/30/22, 9-speed

Parts are not final, i can for example replace the M592 with a M591 for about €5 cheaper

I also noticed that some of the parts come in diffrent versions and designs, for example the cassette comes with different ammount of cogs: 11-28, 11-32, 11-34, etc.

How do i know which designs/versions to use? The Crankset (some length in mm), Front derrallieur (some angle in degrees) and rear cassette (ammount of cogs) have diffrent versions

Is there any other parts i would need to buy? I was thinking i could re-use the rest on the bike.

Everything on the bike except the shifters are original. I could also just buy Claris shifters and use current parts but since i bought the bike used and the gears seem somewhat clunky i decided it might be best to replace the gears instead.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

/C

EDIT: The parts will cost around €160

EDIT2: Thanks for all the answers, I will be buying a new bike.


texts:
Not a big bike person so my information could be wrong. My bike tire leaks air whenever I fill it and I know its coming out of the valve hole. I did some research and found that its a presta valve so I looked up how to replace it on youtube and for all of the videos the smaller threaded part is a separate piece from the larger diameter part but mine is all one piece.
Is there any way to fix this or do I need a whole new tire/wheel?
Thanks!


texts: Suitable Shimano integrated shifter/brake replacement for old STX

texts:
I am looking for a replacement of an old Shimano STX right shifter, from a Raleigh MT-200 (I am pretty sure this is accurate).
It is an integrated shifter, 7 gears, cantilever brakes.

Other than getting a vintage part, which is hard, I found Shimano ST EF-51 may be ok. But I am not sure if they are ok for cantilever or V-brake. Any hints?

  Are there any other options out there?*

As linked here, 8 speed shifters seem to work ok.

  Would 9 speed shifters also work?
  Where can I check specs to confirm this (I would have to check the pull length, probably a piece of information hard to find)?

EDIT: Found an answer here for the first question.

EDIT 2: This and this are posts of mine on different issues of this same replacement need.

EDIT 3: Any suggestion about this Vintage Shimano Altus 3/7 in ebay (ending today)? Is there anything specific that I should ask to evaluate its usefulness?

PS: Interesting post, with many pictures on page 4, e.g., this.