texts: Gap in headset dust cover--what am I missing?

texts:
I replaced my stem with one that has a taller stack height. I learned about proper gaps for the headset preload and had to requisition a thinner spacer to ensure there's ~3mm between the top of the steerer and the stem spacers. (I initially had the top cap too far from the top of the stem and did a 10 mile trail ride like that)
After installing the thinner spacer and torquing everything down, I noticed the dust cover/top cap of the headset bearings has a gap. It's flush on the front of the bike and ~3mm uncovered on the back. I disassembled it, cleaned out all the muck, and put it back together (tightening the top bolt first, then adjusting the stem position, then final torquing the stem bolts), but can't figure out why the bearing and split-ring washer thing don't go into the head tube far enough for the dust cover to be flush with the frame. The teen at the bike shop said sometimes you have to tap them in with a hammer. Is this correct?
There's no binding I can feel, but the front occasionally feels like it wanders on my test drives--like the stem/steerer connection is too loose. I can't tell if this is all in my head, or if the bearing slightly protruding from the headtube is indeed the culprit.
When I got the bike this spring, the headset/head tube made a ton of creaking and groaning, which was solved by disassembling and greasing everything with Park's PPL-1 lube. I've learned a lot more about bikes maintenance since then, but don't remember having any leftover parts after reassembly!
What have I done wrong? I can't find any 2020 Specialized Rockhopper parts diagrams to confirm whether a spacer or something is missing. The bearings pretty obviously only fit in one way, same for the split ring guys on the top and bottom. But maybe I have a compression ring upside down?


texts: Can I put 700c tires on rims made for 27 x 1.25"?

texts: It's getting hard to find any selection for my old Avanti 12 speed. it currently uses 27 x 1.25 inch tires. Can I put 700c tires without needing to buy new rims?


texts: How can I find the perfect handlebar height?

texts:
I test-rode a bike (2018 Specialized Rockhopper Sport) and I liked everything except the height of the handlebars, and it's the XL size so there's no larger option available.

I feel like it would be more comfortable if the handlebars were higher, but I worry that I may raise it and feel like it's too high or realize that my discomfort was caused by something else.

For seat height, I know that when I put my heel on the pedal my leg should be straight, but is there some easy rule like this for determining the perfect handlebar height for me?

Also, will it be difficult for me to experiment with changing the height up and down after buying the bicycle? Does raising the handlebar height require just moving spacers around or do I have to change the stem with a different one?


texts: At what point should you stop repairs and get a new bike instead?

texts:
My bike has passed its prime, one by one parts start to break, and replacing them keeps eating more and more money. Which made me wondering, is there any rule of thumb of when it is more economical to get a new bike instead of replacing parts all the time? Up to which point are repairs the financially better choice?
(I do all the work myself, so in my case it's just about the cost of material.)


texts: Why am I breaking a ridiculous number of spokes?

texts:
First, this is a follow up to this:
Why does my back wheel keep becoming untrue?

(The short version is I bought a used bike a few weeks ago, I broke a spoke on the back wheel, replaced the spoke, trued the wheel with a tensiometer, and found that it had become untrue again. The diagnosis was either the wheel was bent, or that the spokes were just settling and re-truing it would sort out the problem.)

I've been riding it over a week with an untrue back wheel (aka Kayak Mode). Today, I checked the wheel because the trouble had become a big issue again, and found I had two (!) broken spokes since replacing the first broken one a week or two ago.

So, why are my spokes snapping like spaghetti? I guess:

Because I was riding without truing the wheel
Because I'm riding too hard (i.e. coming off curbs)
Some combination of the two, or something else.

Thanks!

Your pal,
JKD

POSTSCRIPT
July 28, 2011

First, thanks everybody.

I wanted to follow up for people who find this question later, and describe the rest of my experience with the wheel.

I kept breaking spokes after replacing them, and by the time I got to the shop again, I had broken five (!) more. They looked at it, I looked at it, and I ended up replacing the wheel. It rides fine now, and as far as I can tell, it was just an old wheel.

Kazah!


texts: Why is this STI shifter cable corkscrewing?

texts:
I have a roadbike with an older Shimano 105 set of brifters.  The left hand / front shifter has always had problems getting the chain to the big ring, to the point I often have to dismount to reset the chain.
Recently someone pointed out that my shifter outer was "weird-looking"  and I had no idea, because this was all hidden by my stem while riding normally.
 sorry for fuzziness - was a balancing act
The outer lies normally when untensioned but twists like this when I change to the big ring only.  Shifting to the middle ring from the grannie works fine.
What has caused this?  It used to work acceptably but has never shifted well.


texts:
I generally ride alone. Recently while riding along at my normal pace, a very large group ride caught me. By large, I mean at least 50 riders.

By virtue of the magic of drafting, by the time about ten riders were past me, I had no problem at all keeping pace, even having to ease off to avoid crowding the rider in front of me. I kept as far to the right as possible (there was a curb) and a bike length behind the rider in front of me. There were riders to my left and directly behind me so it wasn't really safe for me to do anything but keep riding in the pack. After about two miles, we came to an intersection where I continued straight while the group turned right.

One of the riders rather pointedly suggested I should have pulled off to let the group through. I get that I'm an unknown quantity, but it should have been obvious that I was riding safely and really I had nowhere to go since there riders directly behind me.

Question is, did I really mess up? I do have just as much right to the road as the group ride does.


texts: How to make coaster brake work backwards, or disable?

texts:
I'm installing 49cc engine on kids' 20 inch bike.
Chain on engine located to the left, so I flipped the wheel and need to make it work. Brake are coaster. I will install both rear and front hand brakes. Thanks for any help!


texts: Tiagra ST-4720 on Trek 920 Disc (2016): front derailleur problems

texts:
I've upgraded my Trek 920 Disc (2016) bike with Shimano Tiagra ST-4720 Dual Control Levers.

At the same time I've also replaced the disc brake calipers (Shimano BR-MT420) and the rear (Shimano Tiagra RD-4700-GS) and front derailleurs (Shimano Tiagra FD-4700-B).

Everything works well, except for the front derailleur which does not seem to move enough. Meaning that the chain either remains in the lower or higher gear and changing gear is - if possible at all - very rare.

In other words, I have the impression that the spacing between the two front chainrings (of the SRAM S1000, 42/28T crankset) is too big for what the front derailleur is capable of doing.

I suspect a compatibility issue between my front derailleur and the chainrings/crankset. I have tried to look up some specifications about the chainring spacing and the maximal movement of the front derailleur but without success.

Any suggestion on how to make this last piece of the puzzle working would be highly appreciated!


texts: Will an MTB hydraulic brake lever be compatible with road hydraulic brake caliper?

texts:
I'm looking for a brake caliper that will be compatible with an XTR brake lever. As I browse through Shimano's line of lightest brake caliper, I found that Dura-Ace is the lightest but it's a road type brake caliper. So I'm asking,

Will an XTR hydraulic brake lever can be compatible with Dura-Ace brake caliper?

I'm thinking to pair XTR BL9000 hydraulic brake lever with Dura-Ace BR-R9170 brake caliper and pair it with RT-MT900 140mm disc brake rotor, if possible.

I don't do intensive downhill or anything but this is for my sleeper bike. So the highest/lightest component available is my option.


texts: Where Can I Find an Inexpensive Bike Stand Clamp

texts: Are there any recommendations for where I can buy an inexpensive bike stand clamp? I do not know what they are exactly called but the actual part that the bicycle is held onto in a work stand.


texts:
Recently I've installed a front derailleur and while doing it used nearly all hex screwdrivers from my multitool. For example, on the left hand of the handlebars I have a brake, a shifter and a fork lockout. To unscrew them I have to use 3 different screwdrivers (the one on the grip is the same as on the lockout). Needless to say that to put a cable on the frame I have to use different ones.

What is the reason for that (except for the multitool manufacturers conspiracy)?


texts: What's in a good all purpose city commuting winter tire?

texts:
How do I determine what factors lead to a good all purpose city commuting winter tire? Does the rim matter?

I'd like to not have to worry too much about looking out for and avoiding black ice, mainly because I'm not sure you can even do that reliably?

I'll be riding on roads and bike paths but if I encounter an unplowed section, I'd want to be able to get thru the snow without too much trouble.

I am interested in NYC so please factor that into your reply if possible, although a general answer would be great. FYI in NYC in January there's 8 inches of snow across 4 days, and 4 inches of rain across 10 days. Average temperature is 26F low, 38F high.


texts: So this is the first fixie bike I would have owned.  I am unsure if I want a freewheel one or not so I won't have to constantly pedal.  But I was wondering or seeking help for how I could build one by buying the bike piece by piece.  Any suggestions?  I was gonna buy one already made but a friend with a lot of experience with fixies said not to because they are cheap.  So some help please? Suggestions on parts to buy and other things? I would mainly use this bike in NYC


texts: Adjust handlebar position/height (damaged screw?)

texts:
I was trying to adjust the position of my handle bar...but might have turned the screw too hard in the wrong direction or perhaps it was like this earlier...not sure....

Is there anything that can be done or its too late ?

Thanks

Update 3 - Thank you All for the help !! This is now resolved, I was messing with the wrong screws...there was one underneath and that was the one I had to loosen to change the position of the handlebar - here is what had to be done

and thx to the immediate response from Pacific Cycles (Schwinn) letting me know what had to be done !!
Update 2 - I removed the other side screw and am attaching some photos, and a video which might give some more ideas.

Update 1 - thanks for all the great suggestions folks ! I will try out the options and report back !!

The Bad screw (you might see that it is almost gone round)

The Good screw on the other side


texts: Deterrents against partial (component) theft

texts:
Big question: Is there any way to increase the security of bolted on portions of a bicycle?

Specifics: I cycle as my primary mode of transport (in East London) on a early 90s steel road bike with drop bars. It's a good bike, though it could use a paint job. A few weeks ago my bicycle was securely locked in a place with moderate foot traffic (I'd guess someone walked by every 3-5 minutes) for about 4 hours. During that time, someone undid my (quill) stem and the brake cables (at the caliper) and made off with my handlebars, stem, brake levers and brake cabling. So with that in mind, does anyone know of means to secure that portion of my bicycle?

(Part of my concern is that I'd love to move to STI/Ergos from my current downtube thumb shifters, but I can't escape the nagging feeling that a move like that would have massively increased the replacement cost of this theft, and I'm yet to find an acceptable security strategy)

Update:
Was just directed to https://pinheadlocks.com/store/en/  by jstutters on twitter which is clearly close to what I'm after, though not quite right for a quill stem. If anyone has experience with this sort of system, I'd love to hear about it and if anyone knows of something similar that works with quill stems/threaded headsets that would also be very useful·

Second Update(Nov 2014):
I've taken to using a full setup from http://atomic22.com they're pricy, but exactly what I was after. Been using them for a couple months now and am thus far very pleased.


texts: My bike's chain vibrates with every pedal stroke

texts:
I have a mountain bike, and with every pedal, it will vibrate seemingly in the chain and on the pedal. This is with every pedal without fail.

It started with steady occasional vibrations that went away when I went fast, then always were there, and just in the last hour, it’s very frequent and almost does a double vibration. I don’t know what to do or if it’s bad. I always go down big hills and I don’t want my bike to fail on me or something as send me sprawling into the road going fast.

If it’s nothing I can just keep riding with it, but if this bike breaks my mom will kill me. Suggestions?


texts: New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it before use?

texts:
My new chain is totally coated in lube. I would never ride a bike with a chain like this normally. All that goop is just going to collect flotsam from the road and wear out the chain.

Should I clean this coating off the new chain too?


texts: How much does bike price correspond with maintenance needs?

texts:
In this question (with this answer) I asked about a commuter bike, which is to be ridden 40 km every weekday, in the city. And apparently for this scenario I can choose either of two possible kinds of bike:

A $700 bike with derailleurs, rim brakes, and 700 wheels ... I image that this is an extremely standard, common type of bike.
A $1250 bike with hub gears, hydraulic disc brakes, 700 wheels, and carbon forks and seat post ... these are higher-end features and it's rare to find them so cheap (and may require a much less local LBS).

I asked at a LBS (whose specialty is commuter bikes) about, what is the difference between say one of their $600 and $800 bikes; and the answer was, "better components, more durability": that more expensive wheels are 'stronger', etc.

I don't have any insight into how much, quantitatively, more-durable versus less-durable means.

Some arguments (perhaps the main/only arguments) for hub gears and hydraulic brakes are "less or no maintenance".

How much maintenance (not just what type of maintenance, but how much) does a cheaper bike require? How much less does a more expensive one? And/or, how much longer will more expensive components last? Might the more expensive components actually be more costly to maintain (because they're more difficult to service and more costly to replace), but require service less often?


texts: Handlebar of my bike will not bolt onto the front forks

texts: I decided I'd like to remove my front brake from my bmx, but having looked closer i realised I was looking at a gyro brake system. I proceeded anyway, thinking this wasn't going to be a problem, and I removed the front brake with ease, although having to remove the handlebar to get the cable out. I then went to reattach my bars to the frame using the same long bolt that was in there before, but it just wouldn't screw into anything inside the tube. What did I do wrong and how can I fix it?


texts: Will electric heaters degrade bicycle tires?

texts:
Is it safe to store bicycle tires near electric heaters? I'm wondering if the heat will degrade the rubber somehow.

More specifically, I'd like to store my bike near the electric baseboard heaters in our apartment.


texts: Do I need to use thread locker or spoke prep when building wheels if spokes come pre-treated?

texts:
I purchased a dynamo hub, rim, and spokes for a wheel build. Unknown to me at the time of purchase, I discovered that the spokes all have blue thread locker compound pre-applied to the threads.  The spokes are DT Swiss Competition.

1) Do I need to use any other thread-locker or spoke prep?

2) Do I need to lace and tension the wheel all at once, or can I lace it one day, set the nipples to a set start position (with a nipple driver) and then tension it later?


texts: Is there an adaptor for a quick release wheel on thru axel hub

texts: I have a 2020 Jamis Renegade with QR front fork and thru axle rear dropout (142x12mm). Buying a set of wheels for road-specific use but have had trouble find a mixed set. Got a good deal on a QR Axis 4.0 wheelset. However, there doesn't seem to be a safe adaptor for converting the rear QR wheel to be used on the thru axle frame. Does anyone have any insight on this or should I just sell the wheels and look for the specific set I need. Thanks!


texts: How to remove a seized & snapped bolt and extractor from a welded titanium cage boss

texts:
I have a titanium frame with aluminium bottle cage bolts screwed into it. I tried to remove them the other day and one of them snapped off at the head.
I drilled a hole through the remains and tried using a reverse-threaded screw extractor to back it out. Unfortunately, this happened:

The bolt is seized so badly that a steel screw extractor snapped before it broke loose. Now I have a chunk of steel in an aluminium bolt in a titanium frame. What options do I have?


texts: Could someone confirm my assumption about Btwin Original 520 Hybrid front wheel?

texts:
My friend has a Btwin Original 520 Hybrid Size M (Specs)
His bike's front wheel was stolen and I would like to replace it with something cheap (no need for the dynamo hub, for example).
I am a little confused with all the available wheel sizes and models and worried that I could buy something that won't fit.
The rear tires (factory ones) are marked 700x35c, but the specs say that 26'' is the right size for the Medium Size.

From the specs:

  WHEELS: Single-wall, machined, anodised aluminium rims.
  SHIMANO front hub dynamo. The quick-release system makes it easy to remove the wheels when transporting your bike.

  TYRES: Versatile, highly durable road/path B'Twin tyres. Dimensions: size M 26 x 1.75. Size L 700 x 1.75
  Tyres with reflective strips offer excellent lateral visibility at night.

Also, when it comes to wheels I am guessing by the specs that I should buy 1.75'' width.
When I search for rims on amazon I am faced with all sorts of different sizing standards (32H, 36H, 700, 26'' etc). Could someone please indicate whether 26'' x 1.75'' inches are the right way to go? Can I then put 700x35c tires on it?
Are there equivalent sizes using another standard (like 36H) that are equivalent (in cae I am looking for them on amazon)?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Why did the Spanish Courts 'remove' so many Spanish cyclists from the Operation Puerto investigation?

texts:
Operación Puerto is an ongoing investigation (opened in 2006) by the Spanish police in to the activities of Doctor Eufemiano Fuentes, a sports doctor infamous for supplying professional athletes with performance enhancing drugs and associated training programs. Wikipedia provides a great summary.

Looking through the list of athletes implicated in the investigation, it does appear that the Spanish courts removed a number of Spanish athletes from the investigation (specifically from 2 Spanish cycling teams). Presumably there was more to this decision than an attempt by the Spanish police to protect Spanish athletes but I'm struggling to find an alternative explanation. Can anyone explain further?


texts: Are bicycle registration websites any use for recovering stolen bikes?

texts:
Ther are quite a few bicycle registration websites aimed to help you recover your bike if it is stolen, such as Bike Shepherd, Bike Register and MyBikeNumber. I'm curious if these sites are of any use.

What are the strengths and weaknesses of registering on these sites?
Is there any data available on their efficacy?


texts: Does the Brooks Cambium C17 Saddle rub off?

texts:
I use a brooks B17 leather saddle now for nearly 12 months. It's quite comfortable, has a great design and looks very neat on my bike. I use my bike for my commute every day.

There is something that bugs me with the saddle. It rubs off. Every time when it rains or when I sweat a little bit more my jeans looks dirty after a ride. Unfortunately sometimes more than that. I cannot say with certainty when the saddle rubs off, it depends on moisture but I don't know how many. The result is, that I use a cover since I noticed that.

Yesterday I read about the Cambium C17. Does anybody has already experience with this saddle, especially with rubbing off?


texts: Do glueless tube patches work as well as glue ones?

texts: Quite a few years ago I tried some glueless patches for repairing my punctured tubes while out on the road, and found that they rarely stayed on for very long.  I know that technology has advanced a lot since then, and I am wondering if I should now try them again?  Do they work?


texts: What do I need to know about Turbo Trainers?

texts: I'm about to get hold of my first turbo trainer (borrowing it from my triathlon club). Before I start, what do I need to know about turbo trainers?


texts: I am putting a new caliper on and the had to get an adapter.  Anybody know why it rubs and how to solve it?


texts: Can moving cycling cleats forward be a good way to train our calf muscles?

texts:
A good bike fit is known to increase power transfer and endurance because it balances our muscle groups. Interestingly, bike fitters often recommend moving the cleats back to put less load on our calves.

Wouldn't it be better to move our cleats forward to train our calves more? Stronger calves can improve running through increased stride length and reduced injury risks.
https://www.runnersworld.com/training/a20863322/strong-calf-muscles/


texts:
I bought an older second-hand racing bike, which has tubular tires mounted. I went to a bike shop and wanted to buy a spare tubular tire, but they told me:

  Wow, such an old bike! No, we don't have tubular tires. No shop has them. They are not used anymore nowadays. Instead, use an inner tube an a tire.

Is that true? If so, why?


texts: Can Shimano Claris use 11 speed cassette?

texts:
I'm sort-of new to road biking. I'm planing to upgrade my bike and group set slowly (since I'm a broke high school student). Right now I'm running Shimano Claris group set (except I have a R8000 Ultegra rear derailleur) because I'm planning to upgrade from 8 speed to 11 speed, however I don't have other shifter levers.

Can I use Shimano Claris levers for 11 speed?


texts: Tektro HD-R210 bleed port adapter identification

texts:
I have a generic brake bleed kit and I'd like to use it on my Tektro HD-R210. I'm pretty sure the brakes are just an OEM version of the Tektro HD-R310 - when I asked Tektro for support with the HD-R210 they referred me to the documentation of the HD-R310.
The instructions in the kit aren't too clear and don't seem to match the contents of the kit.
There was a bag containing 10 brass fittings labelled 1-10 in the photo, as well as a separate bag with the two fittings labelled 11-12 along with plastic fittings, some clear tubing, and clamps.
Can someone help identify which adapters are compatible with the HD-R210 bleed ports?
The kit is labelled EZmtb master version.


texts:
I have a set of Shimano CX70 canti brakes the pads of which are replacable by changing the pad only (cartridges).

I see in no document for any specification of a cartridge that fits. Are brake cartridges universal?


texts: What should I look for when buying tubes?

texts:
I wanted to buy a spare tube to carry while riding, but it appears there is wide choice: the first website I checked carried 92 items in the tube category, another one had 69, with prices varying from 3,29€ to 16,5€ (that's 5x).

What should I look for aside from size and valve type? Does brand make a difference, or is it more like “grab any one, they're all the same”?


texts: How do I avoid becoming complacent during my commute after riding the same route for a couple of weeks?

texts:
I've found that when I'm used to a certain route while on foot or on the bike, I tend to have my thoughts drifting away and becoming less attentive, usually leading to dangerous situations and sometimes even accidents involving other road users. It's dangerous and I'd like to avoid it when I start to take the bike to my current job.

What methods can I use to stay attentive and not get distracted by my own thoughts while riding?


texts: Shimano revoshift is fogged so gear number is not readable.  I’ve washed the outside with isopropal to no effect.  How to remove lens and or replace it ?


texts: How does front projection affect stability?

texts: So I was reading this article called Stability of a Bicycle by David E. H. Jones and in it he talked about how front projection affects the stability of a bicycle with a negative front projection making the bike more stable because when the bike rolls it might lean to the side and then the front wheel will turn into the direction of the lean, which would lower the center of gravity and that would stabilize the bike. Is that correct? I didn't really understand his explanation of how front projection affects stability. Can someone help me out?


texts:
Could a bike frame be springy like an athletes prosthetic spring leg instead of rigid?
The frame would look like a bow, of a bow and arrow, open end ending at the tires.
What problems may arise that I cannot anticipate, or other engineering issues?
Is there a bike like this?


texts: Which component upgrades for longer rides

texts:
I have a Giant Escape 1 (2016) which I use for commuting to work and back. It is fitted with Altus level kit.

I was considering taking my bike on holiday with me to get in some longer rides, perhaps some parts of the Trans Pennine Trail. Nothing too excessive, perhaps 50 to 60 miles a day, which I know is nothing to many riders, but to me it's a step up from my 8 mile commute. The trail is mostly off-road, dirt track, but nothing too rough.

Would it be worth my while in the long run considering upgrading my components to say Deore level? And if so, in which order for "most bang for my buck"? My current setup has Tektro brakes, so I'm thinking that might be a good place to start?

Any thoughts most welcome


texts: I have a hybrid Dawes, about 25 years old. I think it's currently got 700x35mm. I would like to fit thinner tires but how do I know if the rims will accept them. Is there a way to know?


texts: How to destroy a LOOK pedal as it won't come off anyway

texts:
I've tried everything, from brute force, WD40 overnight, heat from a gas torch (trying not to damage the carbon crank itself), to using an extended arm for extra force.

Nothing will remove this darn pedal! The 8mm hex hole is now slipping so there is no more grip. Even the alloy wrench started to bend!

Ok, here is the low down.

Colnago C40 frame with Campagnolo Record Ultra Torque carbon cranks. Left pedal comes off easy, but the right drive pedal is fooked! Both pedals are LOOK Classics. Both were put on 2 years ago with grease, so they should have been easy to unwind. I suspect I annoyed someone on the bunch races and he went over and over tightened the pedal in vengeance! Bastard! I have an idea who it was too!

Anyway, the question is - how do I kill it!?

I am thinking nice clean fine metal blade on a hack-saw, cut pedal off, then drill middle outwards and hopefully it will unscrew itself without unscrewing the thread attached to the crank!

Any other suggestions?

Thanks


texts: Still skipping cogs when shifting after indexing and replacing shifter

texts:
I have been having problems with cogs being skipped when shifting up or down.
Heavy pedaling will cause shifting sometimes.
To fix this I tried resting the high and low limit screw and reindexing the rear derailleur.
That did not fix the shifting problems so I replaced the shifter and adjusted the derailleur.
I still have the same shifting problems after getting a new shifter.
Is this an issue with the rear derailleur? It is about 8 years old and has been bang up plenty of times.
Is the hanger bent?
any thing else I should be checking?


texts: Can a road bike's rear derailleur be used for either a 9 speed cassette or 10 speed cassette?

texts:
I currently have a 9 speed 11-25T cassette on my road bike. I'm thinking about switching to a different cassette with more teeth on the climbing gear. The cassette I'm currently look at is a Shimano CS-5700 10 Speed Cassette.

Can I swap my cassette from 9 speed to 10 speed without swapping my rear derailleur?

Is a 10 speed cassette wider than a 9 speed cassette or is the spacing between the gears wider?

Do I just need to adjust the wire tension in order to alter how much the derailleur moves when shifting in order to accommodate for the difference in spacing?


texts: I got this from a buddy and he said he thought it was a GT but I couldn't find anything that looks similar. There are no markings or anything on the frame.


texts: Where are my barrel adjusters for my shifting cables?

texts: I have a Devinci Caribou I and I was trying to adjust the front derailleur. I got the top and bottom stops adjusted right, but it seems that it doesn't downshift correctly from the biggest cog to the intermediate cog.  From reading on the internet, I've seen recommendations to adjust the barrel adjustment to fine tune the derailer. Only problem is I can't find the barrel adjustment.  The shifter cables come right out the side of the brifters, and there's no adjustment there. They go through the frame, and come out near the bottom bracket.  On the cable housing there's something that can be turned that seems like it could be a barrel adjuster, but turning it creates no changes in derailleur position.  This turnable part of the cable housing is present on both shifter cable. There is functioning barrel adjuster for my rear brakes, but this is quite different then the possible barrel adjustment for the shifter cables (and it actually works).  Can anybody help me out finding my barrel adjuster?  Here is a picture of the model that I have, although it's hard to see any of the cabling in this picture.


texts:
I'm looking for advice on AXA HR Traction bottle dynamos and others like it if there are any, as I have seen others on this forum discuss them specifically on other threads. My partner is running it with a clamp on her fork, its alignment with the tyre is as correct as I can possibly make it, but still no matter what I do the screeching/screaming noise when she rides is unreal - especially considering I have read on sales websites that these higher-end bottles are supposedly on the "silent" end of things. I'm not expecting sudden miraculous silence, but given we've tried all kinds of position tweaks and running it both front and back, I'm instead wondering if there's a chance this thing is internally faulty?

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks.


texts: Aluminum seatpost stuck to a steel frame

texts:
I'm trying to free my aluminum seatpost corroded to a CrMo frame. One of the methods is to heat the aluminum seatpost and then to let it cool. In theory, the aluminum will expand twice as fast as steel and hence the expansion/contraction should crack the bond.
Some recommend using a blow torch or even boiling water. I don't have access to a blow torch, but was wondering if there was something better than boiling water.
Recipe for disaster?


texts: How can I tell if the size of a bike is right for me?

texts:
Today I disassembled my current fixed-gear, and reassembled all the parts in another frame, which I am considering to purchase.

The current owner of the frame warned me that it might be too big for me, and I agree with him. Even though, I think it has good cost-benefit, so I decided to do a test-ride.

I noticed the final geometry and rideability was pretty good, and since the frame has a long headtube (which I desire) I guess the inseam problem might not be so important considering the main goal is randonneuring, where "riding" characteristics are much more important than "mounting and dismounting" characteristics. Most probably the bike will receive a drop handlebar, even though I like flat bars a lot.

Below is a photo of the current set. There are 6cm of seatpost visible, and I might want to lower an aditional 1cm.
The main reason I want to somewhat stubbornly keep the frame is that I liked riding it, didn't see any major problem except for a slight touch of the upper seatstays between the thighs, but that tends to disappear since I felt the need to put the saddle a bit more forewards.

What I am asking is:

  Even considering the frameset is ridiculously larger than I would
  typically choose, if I like riding the bike, is there any problem that
  I'm not considering, a reason NOT to keep the frameset?

I'm 1,88cm (6'3") tall, and have used 56cm bikes, this one is 64cm (seat tube, bbc to top).

Thanks for any insight!


texts: what to look for when buying bicycle pants

texts: I want/need some pants for riding my bike to work. It is a 5 mile commute and I want something that is not padded and not baggy. What other things should I look for and what type of pants should I get?


texts: How do I remove the freewheel side of a flip flop hub?

texts: I've got one of those flip flop hubs, and I need to remove the freewheel side and either service or replace it as it has started slipping really badly. What tools do I need?


texts: I live close enough to work that I'm able to bike there and back every day. I also pack a laptop in a backpack. I am seeking ways to reduce the weight on my back. I've only seen people use saddlebags on a bicycle 1-2 times my entire life so I'm looking for advice. Has anyone tried to pack a laptop in a saddlebag before and how did that turn out? What are common issues/features I should look for in a saddlebag? I can only think of two things to look for at the moment: 1) impact resistance (not crushing my laptop) and 2) water proof if possible.


texts: Will a hollowtech shimano BB fit a bike which currently has an octalink bracket?

texts:
I have a mongoose otero elite 2008 and the crankset is broke (wobbling) It's also bent, so time for a new one. I currently have a nice shimano deore crankset from an old bike, but it uses a different kind of bottom bracket (holllowtech) where as on my bike I have an octalink BB. Can I remove the octalink and buy a hollowtech BB to fit the deore crankset?

the spec says I have a Shimano ES25 Octalink BB


texts: Are there any bicycle computers that will log ride data?

texts:
I'm looking to get a computer for my bicycle to give me some more information when I go on rides.  I have seen and used several that belong to friends, and while they seem invaluable, the one feature they all lacked was data logging(more than simple avg. speed, avg. cadence, etc.) and the ability to pull that data onto my computer.  I'd love to be able to make some graphs of my rides so that I can track my progress, this seems simple enough that it must exist, I've just had no luck finding one.

Ideally, I would like it to have the following features:

Speed and Cadence sensors
Trip functionality
USB interface to get data the data onto my computer.

If anyone has any recommendations for a good cycling computer it would be greatly appreciated!


texts:
I have a small Japanese (Nippon) fold-up bike and I need new tyres and tubes (road/commuting).   The wheels are about 12" diameter*.  Where would I find replacements please (preferably by web/post), London.

I'm not entirely sure how to measure them, the outside diameter is 13 and a quarter inches; the rim diameter is 10.5 inches. Tyre width is 1 and a quarter inch.

(It also says "1.4 x 1.50"; "Ornate" and a max pressure in pascals on the side of the tyre). Picture: https://i.imgur.com/OljrZHI.jpg  Some parallax


texts: How to safely remove pump chuck from Schrader valve

texts:
I just pumped up my tire, and then ripped off the valve when trying to take the chuck off, and consequently the air.

I've learned that I shouldn't twist when trying to remove the chuck, but what else can I do to make it easier?

Thanks


texts:
So I am replacing the rear v brakes on my old Saracen ruff trax, callipers, cables and pads.

My questions is...

Unless I pull the brake cable tight through the calliper the pads do not get close enough to the wheel.

My concern is I’ve pulled the cable right through so that basically there is just the rubber boot and no cable (apart from cable outside the pinch bolt).

Is it an issue that inside the little bracket at the back the rubber boot gets squished up a bit.

Complete novice at maintenance if it wasn’t obvious


texts:
Can't seem to find something similar so I am going to ask a question.

I recently bought a vintage(mid or late 80s) steel road bike and the back wheel seems to be moving off center and towards the left side of the rear triangle bottom part. The wheel is a tiny bit untrue but nothing out of the ordinary so I don't think that this is the issue. If I take the wheel off and put it back on again correctly it just moves a little bit to the left side after 10-20km. Any ideas on why this might be happening? First time I noticed it was because the tyre started rubbing on the frame and I don't want this to happen anymore.

Cheers,
Ivan


texts:
I am upgrading from a Shimano tourney bike and newbie so please be nice to me .. lol :)

I ride trails and easy bike paths and some roads. For cross country - Semi road/ Semi mountain type riding, which is better? - A 1X11 SRAM/Shimano system or do I need 2 gears in front with a front derailleur? Considering ease of pedaling, shifting and more slower shifts in gear, isn't a 2X10 set up better?

Thanks


texts: Lower gearing with 15 year old Shimano Ultegra

texts:
My wife adores her 15 year old Giant TCX Composite (size 44!). Arthritis means no getting out of the saddle for hills.

We've got the standard 52/38 up front and a slightly larger 11/26 at the back. A lot lower gearing is needed.

I had SRAM PG990 (I think) on the back of mine, that had (I think) a maximum 34 , which was great . I don't recall if this required a new rear derailleur cage. I think so.

The wife doesn't mind MTB components, as long as they're around Ultegra spec.
I'd rather invest money in a bike she loves, than spend $5k (Aussie) on a equivalent replacement.

How low can we go?


texts:
Thanks to COVID lockdowns, things are shut and I'm anyways miles away from larger market areas. What I do have is litres of sanitizer, the kind that is watery in consistency (not gel-like) and is intended to be sprayed (not squirted).
The composition of(v/v) is as follows :

80% Ethyl Alcohol
1.45% Glycerol
0.125% Hydrogen Peroxide
Purified Water Q.S.

It's flammable and has tonnes of alcohol, basically a good sign as a solvent to dissolve oil and grease, from what I can remember from high school chemistry. Not to mention it also leaves the drivetrain smelling nice ;)
So, is it fine if I use it as usual degreaser (spray, rinse, lube) ?


texts: I am building an EBike. The motor manufacturer said I must replace the existing cassette with a freewheel. Why do I need to do this?


texts:
Hi members eres something that I would like to know. ..
I have a viking gravity 20 inch ebike wheel motor.
If I  exchanged/refitted  this motor into say a 29inch wheel with all the same parts/kit controller etc, would this then make/alter the speed/cutoff mph?
Thus improving top speed and limiter on the 29inch sized bike.


texts: How do I deal with a dog chasing me when I'm touring?

texts:
Once I was riding my road bike down a rural road. I heard barking over my shoulder and saw two dobermans running toward me. I can't think of a time in my life that I felt more endangered.

I reacted instinctively and accelerated. Unfortunately I was on a gravel road and going into a bit of an incline. There was no way I could outrun those dogs. I looked back over my shoulder and they were no longer chasing me. The cycling gods must have been smiling on me.

Another time, in a similar situation, a different dog ran along next to me, barking and baring its teeth. I maintained my speed and yelled at it (trying to assert some dominance) until it got tired of chasing me.

These two experiences have done a lot to put me off touring alone.

How do I deal with issues like this?


texts:
Road bikes have a forward bent seating posture, mountain bikes have a straight seating posture.

I was wondering which of the above seating postures (of road bikes or mountain bike) is better for back bone?

Whether any of these seating postures could cause back pain, slipped disks etc?


texts: What is the difference between city (urban) and mountain bike helmets?

texts:
Is there any substantial difference between city (on the left) and mountain bike helmets (just examples)?

I understand that cycling in mountains is different in terms of risks from city commuting, however, my impression is that the safety standards do not distinguish the two.

In my case, I am looking for a helmet for city commuting. Can one say that a city helmet is provably safer in this case? What are its advantages and disadvantages?


texts: Can early 2000 era frame use the latest group sets

texts:
I have a Schwinn Peloton LTD from early 2000 with a 10 speed DuraAce crank.
The label on the bottom bracket says BC1.37x24 ROAD.

Can I get the latest Shimano group sets to work with this frame?


texts: I am repairing a Dahon Vitesse. The frame latch was incomplete. I have the new frame latch parts but cannot work out where they go, particularly the washers and small springs. Does anyone have a diagram or instructions please?


texts: Cycling computers fits on any wheel size?

texts:
I'm a newbie and I plan to buy cycling computer for my bike with 29" x 2.1 wheel.

Is it all cycling computers can fit on any wheel size?

I'm planning to buy Cateye Micro Wireless MC100w or Cateye Velo 7 online. Does them fit my 29" x 2.1 wheel?


texts:
I have a 1980 Peugeot road bike and the tyres need replacing.

The existing tyres say:
700 x 25c
25-622

Which I thought was pretty standard?

Someone in the Decathlon bike shop told me this was niche and I would struggle replacing them. He said my options were to hunt for vintage parts or go all in and get new wheels.

Is that right? I'd obviously prefer to just get new tyres if I can!

I'd really appreciate any advice!


texts: Is commuting 10 km on an empty stomach harmful?

texts:
I recently moved to a new place and I started taking my bike to work. It is a ride of 10-15km, depending on how fancy I feel about taking detours. I wake up at 7:45, and 15 minutes later I am already on the bike. I eat breakfast at work, after 30-40 minutes of biking. My question is: does it have health ramifications if I do it every day? I did some looking around on the internet, but everything I find relates to high-intensity sports cycling, not a leisurely commute.

Some facts that might be helpful:

I maintain a steady pace, enough to get sweaty, but this is more from the length of the ride than from the intensity. I stay dry for the first part of the ride.
I feel strong and capable most days. Rarely I will feel worn out on the last kilometer or two, but this is pretty rare and I guess indicative of bad sleep.
The ride is 100% flat. The biggest climbs are speed bumps.


texts: Relationship between punctures and tube pressure

texts:
What could be the relation between a bicycle's inner tube getting punctured and the pressure of the tube.

Are they directly proportional? I.e, if the pressure of Bicycle tube is higher then it has higher chance of getting punctured.


texts: In these days I'm going to design a e bike project. I'm going to use BLDC motor for that. but normally (according to my knowledge) there are two types of BLDC motors. there are, normal BLDC motor and stepper motor. my problem in can I use a Large stepper motor for the e bike?


texts:
I have a mountain bike that I take out to a local bike trail. Currently I have some thin XC tyres and they don't seem to offer much grip when going at speed. The trail is 80% downhill and mostly loose gravel.

What tyre type would you recommend for loose gravel?

Thanks.


texts: I just bought a new (second-hand) bike (Orbea Asphalt sport) and I was looking at the tire and found out it was a tubular tire, a Continental Grand Prix, but on the sides you can read 'only mount on a hooked rim'. Is it possible for a tubular tire to be mounted on a hooked rim?


texts:
Will an Shimano M8000 brake lever blade fit a M8100? I broke my left blade, it's a Shimano XT M8100. I can only seem to find the replacement M8000 part. I don't want to replace the whole unit, seems like a waste.

Thank you!

EDIT, pics make everything better:

Here's the original M8100 lever blade:

and the M8000 lever blade:


texts: Looking for cleats to match my vintage Mavic pedals

texts:
Which type of current cleat would match these vintage Mavic pedals (Mavic 646 LMS SSC I believe)?

Thanks in advance.


texts: How long should a road tyre hold its pressure?

texts:
How long should a road tyre be able to maintain a pressure of around 100psi, and what factors are likely to reduce this time?

Background:

My tyre pressures are consistently dropping to around 60psi after about a week (three commutes, total ~50 miles), which makes the bike feel sluggish and less responsive.

I've only recently got a road bike, but I've always had mountain bikes - they've always held around 30 psi for weeks and weeks with no problems. I'm wondering if it's the higher pressure that's causing my tyres to need inflating more frequently, or something else?

This answer to another question, and some other answers I've seen suggest that you should check your tyre pressure every day, but is this to be cautious or are you likely to actually have to inflate your tyres every day?


texts: Dimensions of a hybrid clip on cycle fenders

texts:
I have a Fuji Absolute 1.9D cycle size 23 inch hybrid bicycle.

Would someone please recommend the correct dimensions of a clip on fenders (mudguards) that are both functional and aesthetic? (I personally prefer narrow fenders.)

Thank you in advance for your help.


texts:
I've been watching and trying out Seth's tips on bunny hopping by doing the meerkat position first. I was able to get the feel of actually pulling with my weight and it kinda feels like floating a bit.

I was just wondering when getting to the meerkat position, does it really suddenly get "lighter" halfway towards the peek? I was able to do it but was shocked that it suddenly started pulling to my waist faster as it got higher. I'm not sure if I was about to loop out at that point but I don't think I do because I was standing up and my weight was probably a bit ahead of the rear axle.


texts: I have a question, what is the best method to fix my tubeless road tyre if I have a puncture while on a trip? I am searching for a fast method just to get home and fix it later.


texts: I have just bought a 2008 Felt Virtue 1 frame and have no idea of the size of shock I need. Measuring the eye-to-eye length, it looks like 185mm, but how can I work out the stroke length?


texts: Is there a hub gear that can be disengaged?

texts: When maneuvering a folded bicycle the pedal cranks turn when drive wheel rotates backwards causes difficulty. Do any hub gears have a gear disengage facility to overcome this problem?


texts: First long bike ride: Determining the cause of saddle soreness

texts:
I went on my first long bike ride yesterday - approximately 30 miles. (I know, it's cake to you grizzled road veterans out there, but I'm proud!) I had a great time and we took a fairly leisurely pace - approximately 10 mph or so. Lots of cycling and a lot of conversation.

I didn't have any problems with energy or anything, but during the ride I was a bit sore in the saddle. Due to our pace, I was able to ease this a few times by standing in the pedals and pedaling infrequently. By the time we were getting back (the last mile or so) I was really feeling it, but today it seems to be okay. Overall, it worked well.

I'm thinking that the soreness is probably just the symptoms of a longer ride (and me not being used to that). However, I figured I'd ask. How would I, as a relatively new rider, know when saddle soreness is caused by a bad (for me) saddle or bad saddle adjustment versus extended time in the saddle? Are there specific symptoms that I should be looking for?

Edit: I'm looking for generalizations, as I know that specifics change with each rider and bike. An example would be something like, "if you have excessive soreness in your inner hamstring area, your seat may be too far forward", stuff like that. As it stands right now, I'm chalking this all up to the first ride, but I'd like to be knowledgable for future rides (and not ignore any potential warning signs I might miss).

Thanks!

(As a note, for anyone who might ask - I'm riding a Fuji Traverse 1.7. Everything's stock. I'm about 5'10", 5'11" with long limbs.)


texts: Why is my chain so noisy after cleaning and lubricating?

texts:
I have recently gotten into commuting to work with a road bike.  Once a month or so I will degrease, clean, and lubricate the chain.  I change through all the gears to distribute the lubricant and wipe any excess from the chain when I am done.

The problem is that for the first 2 or 3 hours of riding after cleaning the chain, my bike is constantly making clicking+creaking noises.  They sound similar to what one would hear if the bike was having trouble changing gears and seem to be coming from the area of the rear derailleur.  I can "feel" the noise in pedals also.  It seems to be most noticeable in certain gears on the rear derailleur (3, 5, and 6) but totally absent in others (such as 4).

After a couple hours of riding the noise goes away and the bike feels great.  What is going on here?


texts: Recommended handlebar style for short daily commute?

texts:
I am looking to buy a bicycle for a San Francisco city commute totalling 4.1 miles (about 6.6km) in each direction.

My question is, what handlebar position (and riding position) would be recommended for such a ride?

I notice drop bars are very popular here, but I am concerned that the bent over position would be stressful given that I will be commuting 5 days per week. At the same time, I do not want to overly stress my quads. Perhaps a compromise is recommended?


texts: What rear mech can I use with 105 shifter?

texts:
I would like to use a set of 105 shifters (10 speed), but I don't have a rear mech yet for them.
I would like to purchase a mech that would allow me to use a big cog cassette, like a cyclocross or mtb one.
What is the compatibility with other models, like mtb mechs?
Thanks in advance


texts: How to talk to authorities to convince them to bicycle initiatives?

texts:
Since at least 1998 in unkempt, secluded place in Warsaw, PL,  there was an unofficial downhill track. Between the bushes some youngsters constructen on their own ramps etc. Between september/october this year users of that place decided to talk to the authorities to mark this track (at their own, private expense) and make its legal status clear.

Our authorities said not only: "No", but within single month wiped everything away, claiming that this is just a piece of rubbish, that is also unsafe, not compliant with local plan, entacted in 2000 (but that plan can be seen as "dead", within 16 years nothing has been constructed, there are wild trees, trodden paths, a lot of rubbish and one official pavement/stairs to the 1944 Warsaw Uprising monument). No will to consult, no will to discuss.

At present:

So how would you talk to authorities to gain at least no hostility against
grassroots initiative?

Clarification: This place is an artificial hillock, made from the  post-WWII-rubble.
Since 2004 it's named to commemorate Warsaw Uprising, but its not any kind of graveyard or so.


texts: Is there a collective name for the non-groupset parts?

texts:
I would like to estimate the price of a bike if bought in parts.

One thing is the frame, that is easy.
The front and rear shock can also easily be checked out as individual components.
Tires
A groupset seems to include:

brakes
shifters
drivetrain
BB
hubs.

Those categories are easy to check for price on the manufacturers sites.

However, a few pieces remain:

saddle
stem
bars
grips
seatpost
spokes
rims
axles
pedals.

IMHO those peaces constitute a small, but significant fraction of the price of a bike. However, they are so numerous, that checking their prices is tedious, compared e.g. to googling "Alivio groupset" or "Schwalbe Rapid Rob".

Is there some easy way, given that I know the prices of all components in the numbered bullet points above, to estimate the price, in parts, roughly, of a bike?


texts:
guys! I was wondeing if any of you beautiful people can help me out. My dad's bike just broke :( He lives in Ukraine and has had this "Turist" bike for probably over 20 years. They don't make this model anymore and I was looking around on the internets trying to find a similar looking bike to buy for him. He's 60 and uses it to commute to work and when going on fishing trips. I have attached a picture. If you know where I could find a bike that look like it, or even better, where I could buy one and have it delivered to Kiev, Ukraine, I would greatly appreciate it :)
Please post a model number and I can look into it and where to buy it.
Thanks so much]1


texts: What are the differences between Columbus Tubings?

texts:
I'm just wondering why there are seven kinds of tube sets by Columbus (or Reynolds). There's XCr, Spirit, Life, Zona, Max, SL, and Cromor. I recently had a frame made using the Cromor tubeset; mainly because it was the cheapest set they have. Now I'm wondering what really is the difference between the other sets and why they cost more.

I read the product catalogue, it's mostly about the material used and mechanical characteristics, which I'm not really familiar with. Could someone explain the differences, as well as pros and cons, in layman's terms?


texts:
I have a Race Face Ride XC single ring crankset that I stripped out the pedal threads on one arm.  I am trying to remove the crankset, I have followed the instructions that came with the crankset, and it is not budging.  I have a Park Tool CWP-7 and have tried to use it (following any instructions I could find) and got nowhere.  I have soaked it in WD-40 for a week and have pounded on it with a hammer, and its still stuck.  There is supposed to be an "extractor bolt" but the only piece I have to "extract" is the end-cap bolt on the drive-side.

What am I doing wrong? Do I need a different crank puller?


texts:
I have a stock 2016 Trek 520 bike and I'm a newbie to road cycling.

It has Alivio front derailleur and Deore rear derailleur with Deore triple-chainring crank.
The 2016 came with 26/36/48 front chainrings and 9-speed 11-32 cassette. I would like to get it as low as possible by replacing the smallest front chainring from 26 to 22 (while keeping all other components.)
Will it work or is this something that I need to experiment with to find out? I'm hoping that someone already tried this and can share their experience.
will shifting up/down between 22 & 36 cause a problem? (A difference of 14T instead of the stock 10T)
we can assume that I will never ride in the smallest chainring and the smallest 4 rear cogs.


texts: Is it possible to install a thru axle on a bike, which is a few mm to shorter than the bike frame's thread?

texts:
I installed a thule thru axle on my frame, but it is a bit shorter than the original one (newman, see pic).
I think 4-5mm to short.
Furthermore, the original one is CONIC, and the replacing thule one is 'flat'.
Can this hurt my frame?


texts: I'm preparing for a mini tour in the greek islands this August and I'm getting concerned about sun protection. I'm considering not using a helmet (as I'll reach 30 km/h max). Last year I was wearing a "buff" that protected me from sweat, but did not protect me from minor sunburn. Would a hat be a solution, but of what type (considering strong winds)?


texts:
I have been using Strava for the last year to track my daily commutes, mountain bike rides and hikes.  Unfortunatly, I have found that Strava appears to be hiding my data from me.  It seems like I only have access to a small number of recent rides (maybe 10?) and I can't search for rides based on name.

I would like to switch to something that will not hide my data from me and will allow me to:

Record rides & hikes
View rides & hikes on a map afterwards
Browse my rides/hikes
Search the titles for specific things
See things like yearly totals, maybe average speed
Allow me to export my data to some open format (geoJson is preferred, but GPX works too)

Bonus points to any product that:

Is free or has a one time cost
Has clear info on how they are using your data
Is opensource


texts:
Just brought my 2010 Trek 1.5 into my LBS to get a tune up. They quoted me 475 based on needing to replace both rims as well as the slightly bent handlebars. Which gave me pause in that maybe I should just buy a new bike instead.

LBS guy said that I could've prevented some of the rim damage if I cleaned the bike between rides to prevent salt buildup on the pads and such. I use the bike to commute to work, and last thing I want to do when I get home after a 15 hour shift is wipe down my gross wet bike.

So: Do I fix my bike or get a new one, maybe something like the Specialized Allez Elite? Or is that just going to require the same level of repair in a year, and not end up saving me any hassle? Or if I do get a new bike, would I be better off getting something a little less delicate and more forgiving to the rough environment of winter in upstate NY?


texts:
My budget is $300 - $400. I live in India.
My doubt is whether, its better buying a new bike or just assemble different good company spare parts (used or new).
I am very new to cycling, so please help...


texts: Shimano 8/9/10 speed freehub conversion to 11 speed does not appear possible due to changed spline pattern

texts:
After remaining unchanged (with a few exceptions like FH-7801) for nearly 20 years the Shimano freehub body spline mount has changed along with the width.  I had hoped I could refit a 8/9/10 speed rear hub (FH-M756) to work with 11 speed.  But the mounting face on the 11 speed freehub body is totally different compared to the old 8/9/10 design.  I don't see any hope in retrofitting old hubs with new freehub bodies.  Anyone found a solution short of hub / wheel replacement?  The "Zinn" filing down method seems to be the only hack available for standard Shimano brand hubs.

FH-M756 freehub body Y3BD98010 cannot be replaced with FH-6800 body Y3CZ12000 (see photo).


texts: I have a new bicycle, my first with multiple gears. The shifter is on the right handlebar. Does gear 0ne on the shifter indicate the smallest wheel on the cassette or the largest wheel on the cassette? If I am climbing a hill do I need the large wheel or the small wheel?


texts:
I am pretty new to bicycles and have a query regarding my Giant Contend 3.

The bolts on my wheels looks like in the picture, how can i convert them to quick release and what components would be required for same?

Sorry if this question has been asked before.


texts: UK - What constitutes dangerous driving?

texts:
So today a big tour bus pulled into the bus lane in front of me. In the process of doing so, they came pretty close, within an arm span. Then, further down the road the traffic slowed them down and I passed them. When they caught up with me they passed within an arm span again.

They never actually touched me, and I didn't have to swerve or stop suddenly to avoid them. Nonetheless, it didn't seem particularly safe; not having driven a tour bus I don't have any idea how confident the driver could be in pulling this off, but it felt dangerous.

What constitutes dangerous driving? What metrics can I use to make a judgement call about whether a vehicle's actions are actually making me unsafe, as opposed to just alarming?


texts: What kind of wheels need different nipple for front vs. rear?

texts: I'm shopping for spoke nipples and I see some described as specifically for front or for rear.  Is this just a marketing tactic, or do some wheels need different ones like this?


texts: How much aerodynamic drag does each component contribute?

texts:
Obviously numbers will vary based on the specific bike, but what are some approximations of the drag contribution of individual components in a typical (non-aero) road bike?

I have read in many places that the rider accounts for most of the drag. So obviously, riding in a more aerodynamic position is free speed. But after that, what are the most significant upgrades to the bike itself, and how large might those gains be?


texts: What to substitute a lost pedal dust cap with?

texts:
I am working on my 90s Raleigh mtb (it's awesome), where one of the pedal dust caps was lost. Subsequently, the pedal without one had much more sand inside, and is in worse shape overall. As I'm finishing maintenance, I want to fix this, so, do you have any suggestions on the substitutes? My first instinct was to try a spare bar end cap, but it's much larger in diameter. Maybe I can use something small, and add a lot of plumber's tape to make it fit, but I can't think of anything right now.
Somewhere on forums people suggest coins or just no caps at all, but it doesn't sound right to me. I'll leave coins as last resort though.


texts: How to select an inexpensive road bike for a heavier rider?

texts:
I want to start riding a bike from home to work so I need to buy a bike. I don't want to spend a lot on the bike and also I'm not interested in bikes that Target and Walmart sells. I want something cheap yet worth the money.

My main concern is my weight. I'm a heavy guy and I'm afraid of breaking the bike in just one week! I'm 186cm (6'1") tall and 117Kg (257 lbs). Is there any problem with bikes for a over weighted person like me?

I'm looking for road bike that is priced between $300 to $500 that can handle my weight. I know for you bike lovers it's not enough to offer a good bike but unforgettably I can't spend more.

I just give an example that is in my target price range:

I looked online and found the Windsor Wellington 3.0 on bikes direct:

EDITED to make question more useful for other people. :)


texts: How do I improve my cycling at my age (77 years)

texts:
I am 77 years old and newly come to riding a road bike. In the better weather I do between 75 and 100 miles per week, consisting mainly of fairly easy roads with four or five reasonable hills, depending on length of rides. I do routes of 17 miles, 23 miles and a Sunday ride of 40 miles.

I average speeds of about 14 miles per hour and can get up all the hills but fairly slowly, I have trouble standing up to rest or get a boost in climbing. I do stretching and power exercises and three lots of HIT on an exercise bike each week. I cope with my mileage OK but would like to improve my hill climbing.


texts: How to choose a compatible set of chain, cassette and chainring?

texts: I would like to change the chain, cassette, and the chainring of my bike. The cassette has 7 speed and chainring has 3. Is any combination of 7 speed cassette and 3 speed chainring built by any manufacture compatible? How should I choose the proper chain? Does any kind of chain from any manufacture work?


texts:
Hi all, having trouble identifying this logo found on my Bmx frame- any ideas?

Many thanks

More info:  It was bought with all high end parts- and was said to be WTP Justice or other WTP frame—couldn’t find other markings but will check in crank space and other areas for any more.


texts: Swapping Rockshox TwistLoc lockout to trigger lockout

texts: I have a Trek Top Fuel 8 with a Rockshox TwistLoc lockout system. Can I switch it for a trigger lockout?


texts: Unable to adjust alignment of handlebars

texts:
I have a Dutch build Gazelle Superior Special that is a rather old bicycle. I have noticed that the handlebars are no longer fully aligned with the front wheel. I have decided to remove the threaded bolts in the hopes that I can adjust the direction of the handlebars. See below:

This reveals a single ball joint with grooves for adjusting the handlebar pitch. In the center is a single long bolt:

I have removed the bolt in the hopes that I can swivel the ball joint. However it is completely immovable and I cannot adjust the direction it points.

Is anyone familiar with this system? I do not have a stem I can change. I am unsure if I am simply not applying enough force, or if there is some other mechanism on this bicycle design for adjusting the orientation. There is very little information or discussion I can find on this particular bicycle model.
Thank you in advanced!


texts: Can I change the cage on a Campagnolo Chorus derailleur?

texts:
I have a Campagnolo Chorus 10 speed rear derailleur that will not shift properly.  I've  aligned the frame, adjusted the high and low settings and attempted to fine-tune the shifting with the barrel adjusters but it will not shift properly.  The cage itself appears to be slightly out of alignment.  Can this be serviced, or better yet swapped out for the cage on a 10-speed Daytona derailleur( that I happen to have)?

This question is not a duplicate as the Campagnolo products are different from SRAM or Shimano and I was specifically asking about replacing parts, not how to adjust the derailleur.


texts: Comparison of flat bar road bikes, cyclocross and hybrids for city and occasional dirt roads

texts:
I am looking for a new bike with following properties:

comfortable for commute, promenades and fitness in the city and outside with occasional bad roads (dirt roads with some tree roots, bumps) and rough cobblestone
more or less light (I expect to go upstairs with it in hands often)
upright posture preferred if possible

The thing is, I don't want to buy a compromise that tries and fails to be everything -- hybrids are seen this way in some articles I've read.

So I am looking at the three categories I mentioned in the title. Can you give a comparison of the three? What can you advise? Are my criteria too broad?


texts: Is vegetable oil as good as motor oil to oil a bike?


texts: I am a race bike beginner and I am considering to buy a road bike. Is it doable to ride a road bike for an Ironman race or should I consider a Time-Trial bike?


texts:
I'm looking to build my own bicycle. The main thing I care about is compatibility. I've been researching around and have found various gold nuggets along the way:

YouTube - How To Build A Bike From Scratch

insight: There are a lot of different bicycle standards and parts.

YouTube - Bottom Bracket Standards Explained

insight: Threaded bottom brackets do not require special tools.

Nomad Trails Blog Post

insight: Friction shifters are compatible with more cassettes.

Shimano Wikipedia Article

insight: Shimano has a huge market share. Does Shimano set the standard?

Shimano vs SRAM Blog Post

insight: Shimano and SRAM are the two dominant parts manufacturers.

International Organization for Standardization ISO 4210

insight: There is a collection of standards for bicycles but you have to pay hundreds of some kind of currency to read it.

It seems like building your own bicycle with reliable interchangeable parts is a trade secret with tiny insights hidden in places across the internet. I've found people who care about things being light or new. The main thing I care about is compatibility because I want to build my own bicycle, maintain it, and swap out parts. I haven't found reliable coherent source that cares about that.
Intuitively I'd rather figure out what the most reliable standards are and then buy parts that follow the standard instead of only by parts from one manufacturer. I want reliable parts that are maintainable with regular tools instead of a high performance special things that require special tools. I'm not sure how to describe what I'm looking for bicycle parts.
To use an analogy: I'm looking for a ThinkPad not a MacBook. There are a bunch of well defined standards that different Original Equipment Manufacturers can follow to make various components of a ThinkPad. If I want to swap out the DVD drive and stick a Hard Drive Caddy in there I can because the measurements for that slot are clearly defined. Further, I can buy the Hard Drive Caddy from dozens of manufacturers. The same goes for the battery. Also, if I want to change the thermal paste I only need a Phillips screwdriver to open up the ThinkPad. The MacBook on the other hand requires special tools and the battery is a proprietary technology that is glued into the machine because it's thinner or for some other performance reason. When measured by some performance metric the MacBook might be better but from the standpoint of compatibility the ThinkPad is better. So when talking about brands it's better to go with IBM Lenovo if you care about compatibility. I want to develop a similar intuition with bicycles but I'm not finding a coherent source of information.

What are good sources of information to learn about bicycle compatibility ideas?
If there aren't any brands that care about compatibility and standards is the idea to just use Shimano parts because they have the biggest market share?
What guidelines do you follow if you care about compatibility and maintainability?


texts:
A friend told me the best bike parts are shimaro/shimanno?
I saw both companies online! Which one is faking other ones name?!!


texts: There are a lot of blog posts about cheap import lights (like SolarStorm etc) and how they perform. What is not clear to me is why they are so cheap. I know their battery packs are low quality, but that by its own doesn't justify the price difference. Even replacing their battery pack with a EU/UK made, their price caps at around £35, which is less than half of the cheapest branded light with similar output. What are the shortfalls of these kind of lights?


texts:
I'm new to road bicycle with gears. I have 3 gears in front and 8 at the back. The principle behind Bicycle gearing is too difficult for me to understand.

Please tell me what gears to use

When riding on a level road
When riding up a flyover bridge and
When riding down a flyover bridge.

Now I use front gear 2 and back gear  6 to 8  when riding a level road
and front Gear 2 t and back gear 4 to 3 when going up a slope or flyover bridge.

When I use Front Gear 1 and Back gear 3 for to ride a steep upward slope, I  find it easy to ride but the number of revolutions of the pedal increases sharply.

Am I using the right gears in the above conditions?

Thank you for your help.


texts: For 'classic' cantilever brakes, are cartridge brake shoes better than non-cartridge ones?

texts:
What are the advantages of cartridge brake pads compared to non-cartridge ones? Do they offer better braking characteristics?

I'm about to replace brake pads on a 1994 MTB which has Shimano STX brakes (front) and STX-RC brakes (rear), model BR-MC33. Both are 'classic' low-profile cantilever brakes. The STX-RC brake has cartridge brake shoes (type M64/T for aluminium rims), whereas the older STX brake has non-cartridge ones.

Stores still sell Shimano non-cartridge replacement shoes for 'classic' cantilever brakes, but the replacement inserts I need are almost nowhere to find, anymore. I wonder if it's better to replace the brake shoes completely with cartridge ones from some alternative manufacturer, or to just go with easy-to-find non-cartridge replacements.


texts: How to measure sit bone distance if I am very fat?

texts:
I saw many people over the Internet suggesting I sit on a cardboard with my feet a little lifted, mimicking my riding position, and then marking the place with chalk to reveal ny sit bones footprints. However, as a ~140kg man, this does not seem to work (no traces left in the cardboard), but I am unsure I did it right.
Could you kindly suggest other methods / how I could make this work? I want this in order to grab a saddle.


texts: How much flexibility is normal for steel frames?

texts:
I have an 1980ies steel road bike which I used to ride clipless pedals on. I have recently switched to platform pedals for commuting and found out that when I'm coasting and move my feet left and right, I can flex the frame a little bit. The flex is so strong that I can tell only by looking at it that the BB is not aligned centrally under the top tube / seat tube. When I quit the pressure, everything goes back to normal again.
Steel frames are known to have some flex, but is this normal?


texts: How do I know if a given hardtail mtb frame is 'supposed' to have suspension forks?

texts:
How do I know if a given hardtail MTB frame is supposed to have suspension forks? I read somewhere that if you want to convert a suspension bike to a rigid you need 'suspension corrected' forks which are longer. So I assume there are different types of frames based on if the forks are supposed to be rigid from the start and another design that is meant for suspension forks (?).
If that is true, assuming that I can't measure the slack angle of the frame, how do I know if the frame is designed for suspension forks or not?


texts: What's easier to change: largest or smallest tire for rims that support multiple sizes?

texts:
I have a set of rims which state their size is:

26 x 1.50/1.75

Which I believe means I could take tires which are any:

26 x 1.50 (40-559)
26 x 1.625 (44-559)
26 x 1.75 (47-559)

The new tires I am going to buy are relatively stiff / tough, but I also frequently have to do roadside tire pulls and tube repairs.

Which size tire would provide the easiest hand-pull off and on the rim, the largest or smallest available size?


texts: I failed to replace my chain at the proper interval. Will I have to replace my whole drivetrain?

texts:
My bicycle is a 2012 Specialized Secteur. It has 6000 miles (10000 km), and I have never replaced the chain.
I recently began noticing that the chain always seems out of alignment with the rear cassette, no matter how finely I adjust the rear derailleur. This feeling only occurs in certain gears (the ones I tend to use the most). In these gears, the chain clicks softly. It is almost like it wants to skip off of the current cassette gear onto another. The feeling is similar to when the rear derailleur needs an adjustment because it is trying to set the chain between two gears on the cassette.
I know that when a chain is worn, it will "jump" gears because it has enough free play to prevent a proper mesh with the gears of the drivetrain. That led me to research when a chain should be replaced. To my horror, I realized that I had ridden the bike three times the recommended replacement interval. I have regularly cleaned the chain throughout its life and kept it lubricated.
I know that I must replace the chain, but before I do, I would like to know if it is possible that the rest of my drivetrain is salvageable. Should I replace the chain and see if the problem goes away? If not, should I follow with replacing the rear cassette, then if that also fails to fix the problem, the front chainrings? Or, is it possible that this symptom that I am experiencing is not related to the chain's wear at all?


texts:
My gear shifters (c. 2000 Shimano XT) will not shift to the bigger cogs (higher cable tension). Pushing the shift lever doesn't move the indicator past about half way so I can't reach the big cog on the front, or the lower gears at the back, it just doesn't click up into the next gear.

The bike is about 16 years old, so I'm guessing something in the shifters has worn out, but I thought I'd ask here in case there's something I missed and they're repairable!


texts:
I’m looking to build up a new dive train for a slalom / 4x bike.
Is it possible to mix and match any sort of chainring and cassette without running into any problems ?


texts:
I think Ive been getting a cramp in my right quad. I assume its a cramp, but ive never had one before.

I bike 10 miles per day 5 days per week. I always ride the same way (to and from work). On one particular stretch (comm ave in boston) i usually try go about 25mph the whole way. This is where i get the cramp.

It started happening last week and just assumed it was because of the colder weather. Is there anything i can to prevent it from happening?


texts: Is there a recommended way to center your handlebars?

texts: Is there a best practice for centering your handlebars in the stem? Besides eyeballing it, I actually tried measuring distances but found that depending on where I measured from and to I got different results. For example, the screw in the cap to the top of the hoods would show they are off by one amount but measuring to the end of the bars would show a different amount. Is there a most true set of landmarks to use? Does it depend on the quality of the bars? Does it even matter?


texts: 1987 Schwinn Tempo Maillard hub rear axle

texts: I have a 1987 Schwinn Tempo with 32h Maillard "Sealed mechanism" hubs. (I'm still confused about that phrase, maybe it's a bad translation? They're completely unsealed cup-cone hubs). The axle is slightly bent near the drive side, and maybe it's distended or maybe just the axle, but the cone no longer fits flush. I can still adjust it to spin freely and with no axle play, but the freewheel and rim wobble. I am looking for either an axle or a donor hub I can take the cup from. What is the thread diameter of these axles? Wheels Mfg has nice looking rear axles which are advertised as "Shimano/ fits most japanese hubs" or "Fits most Taiwanese hubs", and ebay has a plethora of 36h hubs of the same vintage which look extremely similar. Would I be able to use the cones and axles from 36h hubs?


texts: Hill riding: What gears are usually the most comfortable?

texts:
I've read this and this and I understand the good ways and the bad on how to ride up hills. In fact I consider myself a good hill climber (roadie), but some of the guys I ride with are beating my KOMs because of their gearing. Two of them are now on 32s whilst I only upgraded from 25 to 28. Yeah I know, I should have gone up to 32 as well to match. BUT, I reckon my 28 with the right gearing on the front will make all the difference. So what are good gearing ratios to determine the right gears for both front and back, so that I can keep my cadence around 70-80 or 90 and still have decent speeds (more then 15km/h)?
Do I have to provide personal specs, weight, etc?
Thanks


texts:
It's become a fairly common occurrence in shops to be faced with a tubeless wheel that was doing fine, slowly started having issues, and hasn't had a sealant re-up in a while or ever, but what sealant was used is either lost information or one you don't have handy. If unknown, maybe you could figure it out if you pull the tire, but that's sometimes easier said than done these days, and you can always clean out what's in there and start over,  but what you really want to do if possible is just shoot some fresh sealant into the valve and move on.

Every sealant manufacturers says not to mix brands, yet experience bears out that usually if you just do it, it's fine. But what possible exceptions are there, and why? Are there any sealants out there that are particularly bad for the purpose of possibly mixing with unknown prior sealants? Any that are particularly good? Any hidden compatibility rules that might allow a shop to responsibly only have a small number of bottles around yet still be able to handle anything that comes in the door?


texts:
I have an 5800 set on my bike. However I changed the rear wheel, which comes with a Shimano FH-M756AL hub, which does not support the 11 speed cassette. So for now, I removed the 21 cog and added a spacer before the largest cog. So the shifting is kind of working, but I'm not 100% sure it is fine. I'm looking for a solution which does not require any hybrid cassette.

If I purchase a 5700 10 speed cassette will it fit on the hub and will it work with the ST-5800?

Or is there a MTB cassette that will work with ST-5800?

Thanks


texts: Can I break a single speed chain with kmc universal link

texts:
It maybe necessary for me to remove the chain for a deep clean. I dont think it's ever been cleared by it's previous owner.

So just to be sure I can use one of these to rejoin the chain:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kmc-universal-chain-joining-link/

wanted to make sure just in case I screw up a perfectly working chain.

It is a kmc chain I believe.


texts:
I have bought and successfully installed a SON 28 Dynamo Hub and a Supernova The Plug III on my bicycle.

However, when the wheel spins, the Hub Dynamo connectors will spin together with the wheel.

Is there a specific way to install the wheel packing the SON 28 so that the Hub's electric connectors will remain in place as the wheel spins?


texts: Bottom bracket harder to turn half way around

texts:
does this sound like a I need a new bottom bracket ?
When I turn my cranks with no chain attached, it's pretty smoothe, no real noise and just goes for a while if I let it spin.
When I attach the chain I can turn about half a rotation freely and then it becomes stiff and seems to be in the same place each turn.
I think my bottom bracket is press fit type - it looks like cartridge bearing on either side - I've probably done a couple of thousand miles.
I did just change the cartridge bearings in my rear wheel & hub, think my chain is worn between 75% & 100% from the tool I used to measure.
this may be unrelated but im riding a lot on a turbo trainer - something is causing the chain to vibrate a lot in the lower / harder gears - but appears to be indexed fairly well.
Thanks.


texts: When engaging the brake lever: the cable loosens and doesn't stay in the other side (where the twisty bit is)

texts:
Picture inside. Bike newbie here, Tried adjusting v-brakes from rubbing but now when using the brakes this pivot piece pops out (instead of going back in). Why is this happening what are my options here? thanks!

The cylinder in there is not aligned, not sure if that matters? I tried to align it but it will not stay put (from wear?). Front brake is the same story.


texts: My tire was slashed. Replaced the inner tube, but should I replace the tire as well?

texts:
Talking about a hybrid bike.
As the title says my tire was slashed. It happened overnight and the cut is on the side, so I'm 99% sure it was slashed. I replaced the tube and have been riding without any further problems for a while now. However I still have a ~1.5cm cut in my outer tire. My question is whether I should be concerned and whether I should replace it?


texts: Sudden deflation of a mountain bike tube without a bang?

texts:
I pumped up my flat tires on a Sunday afternoon and on Monday nothing went wrong, but on Tuesday, my bike was left in the rain followed by scorching sun. During that time, both of my bike tires deflated suddenly but there was no puncture or bang.

It is confirmed that the tube had a hole.

Any explanation for why it happened?


texts: Anti-rotation washers (non-turn) washers in non-parallel dropouts?

texts:
I have a Shimano Alfine 11 Interally-geared hub and am fitting it to an "M5 559 shockproof" recumbent.  The wheel is built and true and runs nicely.

However I have a problem with the anti-rotation washers and my dropouts.  The upper and lower edge are not parallel - they diverge at about 24 degrees.   The dropout is not damaged or bent open.

Normally this isn't a problem, but an IGH needs an antirotation washer that looks like this.  The "5L" and "5R" version is what I have.

The problem comes in that the tang on the washer is way smaller than the angle of dropout.

I think the washer's tang should be pressed against the lower part of the dropout, because the hub will want to "roll" forward under tension from the chain.  That is, NOT as pictured.

Your thoughts?   I know I will have to get a set of 7 or 8 to make the cable entry angle work better, but am I risking the health of the frame's dropouts by putting an IGH in at all?


texts: I just got a Nishiki cross bike and it has a Shimano Revoshift 7 speed.  The bike is about 3 years old or so and did not come with a manual and I am a biking novice.  The shifting I understand.  The left handlebar has a Revoshift friction handle with a "+" and "-" setting.  What is the purpose of this and what is the best setting?  I noticed that if it is set for least friction the chain came off the gears.


texts: Is this article accurate? If so, why is the hype about loosing the FD on enduro bikes?

texts:
I read an article on full suspension bikes, explaining antisquat and pedal kickback. They say the bicycle is the only vehicle, where the gear affects the suspension characteristics. This is great, they continue, because the kinematics can be made so that in some gears of the front chainrings the cranks and rear axle are isolated, while in others pedalling blocks the suspension travel.

Firstly, because some people are commenting that the article is grossly incorrect, I would like an opinion on that.

Secondly, as every mountain biker looking to spend some bucks knows, the fuzz is Enduro now. And 1x10 or 1x11 drivetrain. If the article is correct, this setup is robbing FS bikes of a lot of their potential. How come no one is raising the alarm?


texts: What is the metric thread diameter of my crank arm pedal thread that's stripped

texts:
I'm in the market for a threading repair kit. I live in Australia so the closest options for me are to go to Supercheap Auto or Bunnings Warehouse (links to products from those stores). These repair kits have metric sizes e.g. m6, m8, m12, etc. What is the right sized repair kit for my crank arm to be re-threaded?

My crankset is Shimano Deore FC-T6010 170mm.

No idea which one will work. Thanks for any help.


texts: I have a 1985 Murray Phoenix high tech racer. It has 26 X 1 3/8 tires. I want to switch it over to mountain bike tires. How would I do that?


texts: What do I need to grease when assembling a new bike?

texts:
I just took delivery of my first road bike. I guess it's an entry-level to intermediate level bike. I need to do a bit of assembly, and there weren't any instructions. It seems reasonably straightforward, but I just want to ensure I'm doing it right.

I found a couple of questions here:
Assembly of New Bike
What do I grease and what do I lubricate?

But what I'm wondering about specifically is what I need to put grease on now. I've figured out that I should put some inside the frame before installing the seatpost, and I should put some on the threads of the pedals before installing. But what about the front wheel axle? Am I supposed to put grease there before tightening everything up? I realise it's maybe a basic question, but I'm a newbie and as I said, I just want to ensure I'm doing things right.

Edit to add: The bike is a Scott Speedster 30.

FRAME Double Butted 6061 Alloy
FORK Carbon 1 1/8" Carbon steerer


texts:
I took a punt and purchased a Mountain bike second hand, unseen (off our local equivalent to eBay).  It turns out it is a much higher spec bike than expected - including a carbon frame.

Until now I have used Thule 591 roof racks to carry my bike, which clamps the down tube. Can I carry a carbon bike using these racks, if not, what is the recommended way to carry it?


texts: I've been gifted this frame by a family member and would love to restore it to its former glory. I literally don't know where to start. The brake levers are frozen solid and don't move at all. The gears are downtube. Obviously the first place to start is with some wheels - but Im not sure what cassette size I should be looking for. All in all any pointers or advice would be most welcome. Thanks!


texts:
Was wondering if anyone can verify year of the Gitane frame

Thanks
Damian


texts: How to get a bike from one city to another in the U.S

texts: I need to mail a bike from Portland, Oregon to Austin, Texas. I know that you can get free bike boxes from many bike stores, but how do you pack a bike to ship by mail or to check as baggage on a plane?


texts: Is it possible to use BMX steerer (stem+handlebars) on fork on folding bicycle?

texts:
II want to replace my folding bike's steerer with a BMX setup.

I've been told by a bike shop that it is not possible because the steerer tube protrudes 10 cm higher than the frame tube.


texts: Why does a Shimano centerlock rotor have free play?

texts:
I have an electric road bike that has SM-RT64 Shimano centerlock
brake rotor in the front. I have noticed that when I press the front
brake and try to rock the bike back and forth, there's some free play
somewhere in the braking system.
I checked for free play in the headset to find nothing.
I checked hub (HB-R7070) bearings for looseness but they weren't loose.
I checked that the disc brakes have the pad retaining screw tight.
When I rock the bike back and forth, it doesn't seem to be the brake pads that
are loose. The looseness seems to be at the centerlock brake rotor. It is not
the fixed rivets connecting the spider to the disc that are free; instead, the
brake disc seems to be rocking back and forth at the hub, and the lockring
seems to be rocking along with it. Thus, the brake disc - hub connection is of
suspect.
Related information found online:

https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=116894
https://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/front-hub-play-980620.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/xtr-disc-brake-play-386036.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/disk-has-1-2-play-when-braking-914595.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/linear-centerlock-play-792697.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/centerlock-rotor-slop-1055472.html
https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/12768497/play-in-centrelock-rotors
https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/12719436/rotational-movement-on-centre-lock-disc-brakes-normal
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/360397-little-play-front-disc-normal.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1121066-centerlock-rotor-slop.html

https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=177747
https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/3wajho/my_first_mountain_bike_has_a_loose_disc_brake_is/
https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/play-between-disc-hub-centerlocks-710730.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/loose-rotor-centerlock-adapter-369055.html

What could be the cause?
Is the brake disc defective?
Are the aluminum centerlock splines in the hub damaged? (I hope not as it took
about 5 hours to build the front wheel, and swapping the hub to another would
take another 5 hours).
Or is the centerlock design just too weak for the massive braking forces I need
(my weight is over 100kg)?


texts: How do I find the right size of bottom bracket?

texts:
I have an old cup-and-cone system that I need to replace; for the sake of simplicity, I would like to replace it with a cartridge.  Alas, I have no idea how to figure out what dimensions of the cartridge to buy; ubelievably, the exact dimensions of most parts don't even seem to be available at the point of sale, at least not online.  This made me assume there were some sort of standardization to it, but if so I can't figure it out.

However, the last cartridge I bought (though the spindle length was within 2 mm) seemed a lot more wrong than 2 mm (I think the symmetry was wrong.)  All I know is this:

SCM
3UB

is written on the spindle, which is about 124 mm long; and on the cup was written: 1.37x24T.

I have a triple chainring.  Thanks.


texts: Campagnolo Cambio Corsa primitive derailleur -- can it be recreated?

texts: Does anyone make this sort of system and sell it today, or is my only option looking for someone selling theirs? I've googled whether similar systems are being made today but found nothing to my liking. Are there any new versions of this?


texts: I know the other turn signals, but what if I need to flash the hazard? On a car it is both turn signals, but on a bike stretching both arms is stupid.


texts: Why do cyclists shave their legs? Is it because of wind resistance?


texts:
I very recently purchased an E-bike for commuting to work and other area locales. I understand with any new bicycle there will be some break-in time and after a few rides I did notice the brakes were a bit softer than when they started out. I looked online and found some basic tips to adjust the the brake tension which worked.

The brakes on the bike are TekTro Aries mechanical discs.

The weirdness begins with a slight ticking noise I recently started to hear when riding and goes away when I actuate the brakes. However, when I tried to duplicate the problem at home to confirm the problem, I found it difficult to recreate. With the rear wheel lifted off the ground, I turn the wheel and no ticking sound. Additionally while still holding the wheel off the ground, actuating the brake handle had no noticeable effect on stopping the rotation of the wheel. I then put the tire back in contact with the ground and actuate the brake handle, wheel refuses to budge until I release the brake.

Can anyone explain to me how to clear up the ticking noise?

Is the brake not working with the tire off the ground normal?


texts:
My wife and I are planning a cycling trip through Europe. This will be our second, and we're planning to build a pair of dedicating touring bikes for this (and other) adventures. We'd like suggestions on how to most cheaply and reliably get our bikes from the United States to Europe.

On our previous trip, we ended up having to change carriers, as Delta wanted to charge us a total of $1,600 ($200 per leg per bike, with two bikes and four legs round-trip) to get our bikes back and forth. We switched to Continental, who thankfully only charged an extra $400, but the experience makes us worry about future travel. What we're most worried about is the uncertainty: we may expect the fees to be one amount, but a change in oversize baggage surcharges or a disagreement over the policies with airline personnel could result in us being charged far more than is reasonable. And we may only find this out at checkin, which would be far too late to alter our plans. Thankfully, after getting conflicting information from two Delta staff members over the phone, I confirmed the excessive bicycle surcharge in time to change our flight. Next time, we might not be so lucky.

Since we've decided to build our bikes, my first thought was to spend the extra money for S&S coupled frames (the awesome Surly Trucker DeLuxe) and a matching S&S hard case. This right now seems like the best approach, but it might be annoying with hub dyno powered lights. Two problems come to mind with this approach: 1) I ride a 62cm frame, which still may not fit into a regulation-sized case, and 2) airlines lose baggage all the time. I can't think of a more depressing situation than to wind up in Europe ready to go, with our bikes nowhere to be found.

Another option is to skip the couplers and simply our bikes. From what I've seen, this is simply prohibitively expensive. For instance, Bikeflights quoted us over $2,000 to round-trip our two bikes in standard hardshell cases.

Neither of these seem great, so I feel like we're stuck between a rock and a hard place. Does anyone with experience in traveling with bikes have suggestions?


texts: Left crankshaft arm broken - can I use a different manufacturer?

texts:
Good evening,
My left crankshaft broke on my Voodoo Masala hybrid bike (Halfords). It has a Suntour XCT9 crankshaft.
Frustrating it’s cheaper to buy and entire replacement Crankshaft than the left arm alone. My question is can I use any 175 left arm or am I left working out what replacement crankshaft to put on it?
Thanks,
Paul


texts:
This is what my stem shim looks like:

Why is it angled like that? Does it have a purpose?

I lowered my handlebars and with that angle it looks hideous. The stem sticks out over the spacers now. When it was at the top with no spacers below it looked fine.


texts:
So I have a bicycle that has a single front gear, but many back gears with a derailleur. I am wondering if I change the size of the front gear (like significantly), meaning if I get a bigger front gear without changing the back gears or derailleur, will the derailleur will still function and not cause the chain to go slack?
If not can I adjust the rear derailleur to a larger front gear?
I am trying to make a generator out my old bicycle, and in order to get a more efficient power output I need to have a higher front gear (since it is an old bike for smaller people so it has a rather small front gear). I am pedaling too fast on it as is right now. I do not know what gearing I have right now.


texts:
What's the best downhill safe fall if you're getting a lot of speed wobble, or you're on a really rocky course and lose control?

I noticed a lot of people try to slide the bike down to its side, but that isn't always possible.  When it's not possible to do that, should the bicycler try to pop a wheelie and go to his back?  Jump up and start running, and then slide on his nostrils?  Roll?  Log roll?  I've seen so many different falls, and I've always improvised.  I'm of the belief that you have to know how to fall before you do any sport, though, and I don't feel right not having researched bicycling safe falls.