texts:
My rear axle broke about 2 weeks ago, and I replaced it with a new one.
I also replaced the ball bearings with new ones when I did this.

The issue I am having is when I'm going with a higher speed the rear hub is making some sounds as if there would be some friction there.

When I mounted the axle I tightener the cones so that the axle wouldn't wobble.
If I loosen the cones a bit it starts to wobble a bit.

What do you suggest I do in order to get rid of the noise? Should I try to let the axle a bit more loose?


texts: I just measured the inner width of my rim with a ruler and it seemed to be a hair over 14mm.  Looking at the tire sizing chart on Sheldon Brown's site it doesn't have an entry for 14mm inner width rims. My wheels are Vuelta Corsa HDs (nashbar special), and that rim is probably used on other Vuelta wheels, so I'm thinking it's not an unusual size. Might they be considered 15mm? Anyone know the official spec for those rims?


texts: Is there any way i can add progressiveness to my suspension, even though it is not compatible with standard tokens?

texts:
Off the back of my  last question, is there any way i could be able to add some progressiveness to my suspension, maybe i could retrofit tokens or something of the like.

Thanks.


texts: How can you identify if a Shimano rear derailleur is medium or long cage?

texts: I have a 2013 Shimano XT rear derailleur. It is part of a 2x10 drivetrain. How can I find out if it is a medium or a long cage one? The picture below shows the derailleur.


texts: I have a friend which has a friend who is selling his bike, the only picture i have is this one bellow, i know it is a Focus bicycle but i don't know the model.


texts: Any experience with spokes breaking on new Trek 720 touring bike

texts:
I have a new Trek 720 Touring bike with about 1000 miles and have broken two spokes on the rear tire in the past two weeks and haven't yet added the weight of panniers.  This is a 24 spoke wheel and I'm told Trek doesn't have a 32 spoke wheel for this application.  I'm concerned for when I begin my cross-country touring in another month and adding another 30-35 # over that wheel.  This Trek model is new this year...anyone else out there have similar problems? I've traveled 1000s of miles without broken spokes until now.  Any diagnosis?

NOTE - Trek has issued a recall for this particular wheelset

Trek Recall Notice for Bontrager Approved TLR Disc 700C 24H Front and Rear Wheels


texts: Pedals feel like they’re clicking while pedaling

texts: I am new to cycling and have recently purchased a brand new 2020 Cannondale Caadx 105 Cyclo-cross Bicycle. I have had it for around 2-3 weeks now and I’ve started to notice a clicking feeling while I am pedaling. The clicking is not audible and typically happens twice per revolution in both pedals. The clicking is usually only felt when I am using the central gears in my rear cassette, and usually when I’m not pedaling too hard. I purchased the bike assembled from the shop, and I don’t really know what could be causing this.


texts:
This morning I almost witnessed an accident. I was a couple of hundred metres behind the incident but arrived at the scene when a pedestrian was picking a bike from the middle of the road, a distraught driver was parking his van and a cyclist was lying on the pavement very dazed and grazed.

Several pedestrians stopped, one called an ambulance, the van driver put a jacket under the cyclist's head for comfort, but otherwise we didn't move him, we kept him talking, he wasn't complaining of cold. He did want to know about his bike, he was more worried about it than his bashed up leg.

But what should we have done? Did we miss out anything crucial? Do we do wrong?


texts: Impossible to disassemble a Sturmey Archer 3 speed

texts:
I have a relatively recent Sturmey Archer IGH 3 speed (CS-RK3) that has a broken part in it (HSA119 Gear Ring Pawl to be precise).
Unfortunately, I am unable to unscrew the HSA824 F30 Ball Ring to fully disassemble the hub.
http://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/catalog/files/300/PART%20LIST%20-%20CS-RF3%20CS-RK3.pdf

I have tried multiple approaches, from banging the wrench with a hammer, to extending with a long lever. I have tried a bit of penetrative lubricant to help, but the lubricant goes through the spoke hole.
I have two questions:

Can someone confirm that it is a right-hand thread (aka normal thread aka lefty loosy) ? All the videos I watch showed that it was the case, but this hub is a bit different (it has a freehub instead of a single sprocket), so I don't know.
If yes, what magical tools could I use to unscrew the cage ?

Thanks


texts:
Analysis paralysis.  My wife says I can spend up to $500 on a first bike.  I don't want to spend it on the wrong stuff.  My intention is to use it as the "last mile" on public transit on commute/weekends, quick to the grocery, leisure ride, and perhaps even intentional exercise.  I've read tons of other posts on this site talking about what to look for in the abstract.  Now I need some concrete advice.  Which bike to buy?

At 6'4", 36.5 inseam, This calculator says my ideal mountain bike measurements are 21.5" seat tube and 180mm crank.  I don't know how that equates to a hybrid.  I think the larger frame size limits my options - bikes stores don't seem to carry these sizes.  So perhaps I have to order online?

Besides being the best value in all parts, certain luxuries I think I'd like are wheel splash guards and a rear rack as I might commute to work.  Can these be added to any bike?  Front suspension?  Not sure if I need it, but I know to want lockout if I do.  Aluminum vs Steel?  I've read that aluminum is less shock absorbing than steel, yet my known options below are all aluminum.

Here's what I'm looking at:

http://www.marinbikes.com/2011/bike_specs_compared.php?serialNum1584=1584&serialNum1581=1581&serialNum1580=1580&serialNum1882=1882

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1094212_-1_20000__400321

Are these any better than a Dick's Sporting Goods Diamondback brand hybrid?

What others should I look at?

Thanks.


texts: Phillips brand c1950? Please help me identify this awesome old frame!

texts:
Here is all I know:

Seems to be a 26" frame.

Lug construction on main frame but the seat stays are bolted on.

Serial number at seat clamp: 3051CT

Has strange hole in bottom bracket shell.

"Made In England" stamped on underside of BB.

Forks are of a pretty old construction style.

Has tiny holes to mount a badge on the head tube.

Possibly a Raleigh Bomber from the early 80s, but I am thinking it is a 1940s-1950s Phillips frame from their 'Cyclemaster' line. That filler hole and no Raleigh stampings make me think it is a Phillips...

Attaching pics of my frame, plus two from the Phillips catalogues. Bottom right is frame, fork is center in the other pic.

What do you all think? Year range is hard to figure out from Google.

(Raleigh bought Phillips in the 60s i think, and looks like they dug into Phillips' back catalog 1980 for the Bomber frame - it's nearly identical.)

THANKS!


texts: Is movement in my bottom bracket an issue which requires attention immediately?

texts:
TLDR; my bottom bracket has movement when it shouldn't but no other issues / sounds / clunking. If I'm riding a few miles a day, is this likely to break catastrophically, or will it last another year or two issuing the odd warning sign?

This is different to the question: Riding on a failing bottom bracket - what could possibly go wrong? as mine doesn't experience clicking.

I have an old (20 yrs) mountain bike. The bottom bracket has play in it, one side can move up and down 1-2 mm - I am guessing this is simple wear.

There are no other issues, no creaking, no stiffness, other than the movement.

I cannot replace the bb unfortunately, tried to remove the crank arm and it pulled the thread out instead of the arm! I also suspect I'd have issues getting the bb out too. Bike is worth next to nothing, but this is an advantage as it makes it less likely to be stolen.

Assuming this is simple wear, will I get warning signs before it dies, or will it just unexpectedly die on me?

I understand there is no definitive answer to this, given the lack of info/data on the issue, but would appreciate answers from those with experience of this.

Edit: this is a sealed unit, so one side screws into the frame and the other has a plastic screw(?) to hold it in place. No adjustment of cups is possible as far as I am aware.

To clarify, there are no sounds coming from the bottom bracket.


texts:
I have a set of Shimano m785 calipers with Saint RT81 rotors.
Every week or so they squeal and severely lose braking performance (mainly the front).

Using disk brake cleaner and a touch of sanding I can get them working again. When cleaning there is clear contamination from oil that has dried.

Now I've thoroughly cleaned the caliper and even simultaneously replaced the pads and rotors. Two weeks later and it's back again. I do ride past some moderately industrial areas but where is the oil coming from? I don't think there's a leak from the caliper as the lever doesn't feel spongy.

Is there a way to prevent this other than catching the oil early each week and removing it?


texts:
I am planning to build a road bike for 5-10km transportation purposes and I want to build it part by part because I only earn $30 to $60 per semi-month (monthly bills are included, that's what I earn exactly). This is my first time to build a bike. I used a BMX-type bike, given by my uncle, before but it was used by my cousin.

I also want it to have a disc brake. I heard it costs higher price but low maintenance.

Drive terrains are asphalt, with 50meter 30-40 degrees slope (highest possible).

Any suggestions where do I start?


texts: How do I prevent my hydraulic brakes from getting pressed/damaged when the wheels are off?

texts:
When I was buying my bike, the technician in the shop told me not to press the brakes when the wheels are off (detached), otherwise the brakes will get damaged (I don't know how).

I need to detach the wheels for a few days and I want to clean the bicycle in the meantime. I will be moving it a lot, rotating it upside down, etc. How do I make sure the brakes don't get damaged during this process?


texts: What's a safer alternative to a flag for marking special bikes?

texts:
Every year I marshal a family ride organized by my local cycling campaign. As it's targeted at people who don't cycle long distances, the main job of the marshals is to offer help to people with mechanical problems, as well as to give them confidence they're following the right route.

To make us more visible among the huge crowd of bikes, we carry flags, like this:

Picture courtesy of Mike Clark

These flags are very effective and visible, but have some problems:-

They tend to fwap people in the face. Most of the ride is on cycle tracks, and if a wind blows from your left, the flag flaps out to the right, taking the whole width of the track and inconveniencing oncoming riders or pedestrians.
The bamboo canes sometimes snap if we go under low signs or tree branches too fast.
Part of the route is lined with high brambles. If the flag rubs against the brambles, they tug at it, pulling the bike off-balance (and this can snap the cane too).
If you stop riding in a tail wind, the flag envelops you and you can't see anything until you start moving again.

They also help a little with publicity, as passers-by always stop and ask us what the flag is for and where we're all going. (The design of the flag itself is irrelevant: the one pictured here happens to be the county flag of Northumbria, but all the marshals have random flags.)

Is there a way to improve on this design, removing one or more of these problems without making the marshals less visible? HV jackets just won't cut it: you can't see one HV jacket in a dense crowd from more than about 20 m away. Besides, some normal cyclists wear them, which could cause confusion. Rigid flags won't work either, even if they're shorter: there are parts of the route where even the riders have to duck under low branches.


texts: How do I identify what cassette type I have?

texts:
My chain was jumping and I looked at my cassette, let's just say it needs a lot of dental work.
So I need a new cassette and a new chain but can't find specs for the cassette type for my bike.

So what should I look at to identify what type it is in order to buy a compatible one?

I have a Schwinn Graft Pro


texts: Derailleur hanger moves when tightening quick release

texts:
I have an old Trek T-900 tandem that my wife and I ride quite a bit.  It's got an 8-speed rear setup.

It's a standard (tandem) 145mm rear-spacing with matching hub, but tightening down the quick-release moves the derailleur hanger, screwing up the shifting.  I can re-adjust, but next time I remove the wheel, it shifts poorly until adjusted again.

This is an aluminum frame, so re-spacing it isn't an option.  Ideas of what is going on here?


texts:
I have a JoeBlow Sport (not a Sport II or Sport III)

It head defaults to schrader style. There was an adaptor in the box which I thought was a presta adaptor.

I tried sticking that adaptor in the pump small side (screw side) toward the pump, other on the tire presta value. No matter what I tried I could not get the tire to take air (yes, I unscrewed the lock on the presta valve)

I looked for some videos and the manual but I can find nothing on the JoeBlow Sport. Only the Sport II and Sport III which have a different head.

I found this video about some other head and how to change it. It involved opening the head and flipping parts. So I opened the head on my JoeBlow Sport but I can't see any way the parts fit differently.

If I flip the second part from the right end, it's black and rubber, it looks like I'd expect for a presta valve but it's impossible to close the head back up with it upside down. In fact I can't see any point in being able to open this head, flipping any piece whatsoever makes it impossible to close.

Can someone explain what I'm supposed to do here?


texts: Chain hitting front derailleur cage with H limit screw fully loosened

texts:
I followed the Park Tools guide to set up my gears. The rear derailleur was a success but I can't manage to adjust the front derailleur so that the chain stops grinding on the guard. There's no more give left in the H adjustment so I can't bring it forward. Any ideas?
As you can see by the paint damage, the chain has hit my frame many times in the 6 months I've owned the bike. The chain has never come off though.
One suspicion I have for the chain pushing against the derailleur cage is that the chainring is not fitted correctly, or has shifted. The photos show that it's on an angle. Is this cause for concern?
Thanks in advance.
For the images below, the chainring is set to the top and the casette is set to the bottom:


texts: Does cycling without stretching make you shorter?

texts:
My brother said recently:

  You need to stretch after you cycle or you will become shorter.

I am very sceptical about this and a simple Google search doesn't bring up anything in the affirmative.

My question is, is it true that cycling without stretching afterwards is linked to height loss?


texts: Why aren't sealed hub bearings common place?

texts: Loose hub bearings may be cheaper to mass produce, but why wouldn't sealed hub bearings be one of the first upgrades to a bike?  It seems that most of us choose loose bearings.  I'm thinking of putting in a set of sealed bearings front and back and be done with it.


texts:
Has anyone ever made a set of studded tires?  What did you use?  I read about a method somewhere but I cannot recall where.  I heard that you can:

Drill/make a small hole through the tire
Screw a screw through the hole
Cover the screw in part of the screw with duct tape

I am somewhat skeptical if this would work or not.  Anyone have any suggestions?  I was thinking rivets might work better.

Picture source.


texts: Spokes are too long for wheel build. What did I do wrong?

texts:
Tonight, I began the process of building a new wheel.

I purchased an Industry Nine Hydra Hub (MTN - 32 hole - Classic Rear Hub - ISO 6 Bolt - 12x148 HG)

Here are the calculations posted on their website:

I am pairing it with the Spank 350 29" Rim. Here are the calculations for the rim:

As for nipples, I purchased these:

I checked on several different spoke calculators. This is the spoke length calculation I got:

Drive Side Spoke Length: 290.7mm

Non Drive Side Spoke Length: 292.4mm

Drive Side Spoke Length: 290.7mm

So, I bought 290mm spokes and 292mm spokes.

But, halfway through building the wheel, I noticed the spokes are way too long... like to the point my wheel build is definitely not going to work with these spokes. I have 16 spokes on the wheel and all of them are sticking out of the outer nipple holes...

My Question:

What did I do wrong in my calculations? What is the correct spoke length?

I have this bad feeling that it has something to do with Spank's "ERD++" calculation, but I don't understand their wording:

  ERD and “++” – It’s important to note that the “++” callout in Spank
  published ERD measurements for all our rims, refers to the height of
  the nipples you are using in your wheel build. You must add 2X nipple
  head height (specific to the nipples you have chosen), to the ERD when
  calculating spoke lengths. In the past ERD was usually communicated as
  a calculation including a standard nipple head height, (Inner Diameter
  of the Rim + 2x Spoke Bed Wall thickness + 2x Nipple Head Height =
  ERD). However, in recent years many new standards of nipples have been
  introduced, and nipple head heights vary. For example a standard
  external nipple has a 2mm head, while a DSN type nipple has a 4mm
  head. For this reason, Spank communicates ERD without including nipple
  head height, so the user can add the exact height of the nipples they
  have chosen for their build, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2X Spoke Bed
  Wall Thickness = ERD ++).
  https://spank-ind.com/apps/help-center#!faq-article-1

... Does that mean I'm supposed to add more to the ERD? I just used 602mm. If I had to add to the ERD, the spokes would be even longer, so I don't get it.


texts: Replacement crankset for MegaExo BB 24mm on 8 speed bike

texts:
I have a Specialized Allez E5 from 2017 with Shimano Claris (8 speed) and I'm looking to replace my crankset.
I believe this is my current crank.
My specific and potentially stupid question - am I right in just looking for replacements that fit my BB or is there anything special I need to consider for the 8 speed? I'm probably going to get a like-for-like replacement in terms of teeth, ring size and so on.
Thanks


texts:
Let's assume the following saddle heights:

ultra low (bmx, DJ)
low (slopestyle)
medium
high
ultra high (XC)

In videos on the internet we sometimes see pro DH riders riding with a medium to high saddle height. I understand that this needs experience and works for them because on some ocasions they may control the bike by pressing on the saddle or something like that.

But how can they absorb impacts from 5 (or more) feet drops? Either drops to flat or drops with a bit of a transition.

My problem is that even when my saddle is at low to medium position I'll sometimes crash my b@ll@cks when trying to absorb landings. So I either:

decide not to absorb anything and let the bike (suspensions) handle it, or
absorb a bit by leaning my back (humping) which is obviously super wrong and dangerous and has already caused me some lower back pains

Any ideas on how they do it and whether [1] is the key on those situations?


texts:
I'm wondering if all 10-speed chains fit to 3x10. A lot of webshops say that the chain is "for road bikes 2x10" or something like that. Or nothing at all.
The chain I have right now (Shinano CN HG-54) is "ultra narrow", but I'm not sure if that's because it's a 10-speed, or if there are sizing issues between 1x10, 2x10, and 3x10.

I appreciate any input!


texts:
What is the top speed hit during a sprint on flat ground in a road race by a professional sprinter, say, someone like Cavendish?

Is there an official record for this and if so who holds it currently?


texts: What variables best determine bicycle fit for an individual without riding it?

texts: Trying to decide a bicycle purchase, not sure how to choose the best fit bike for my body type.  Should I measure my leg length, torso length, arm length, body build, does my gender make a difference?


texts: SRAM 11 speed Apex derailleur w/ SRAM GX 10-42t cassette

texts:
I'm building up a drop bar bike and working with sram for the first time.

The issue I've run into is that a local shop advised me that the indexing for the sram 11 speed road line and the mtb line was the same. So I've got a complete gx drivetrain (cassette, rear mech, crankset) hooked up to a sram s-500 bar-end shifter (which I have now been told is incompatible).

It should also be noted that I have trp hylex brakes so brifters aren't the ideal solution in this case.

I'm trying to salvage this build and it's been suggested that I just buy an apex rear derailleur and swap it out, but I'm concerned about it's compatibility with the 10-42t cassette (SRAM XG-1150 GX 11 SPEED).

If I could go back and do it again I'd just buy the complete road group with brifters and use mechanical brakes, but I'd like to avoid re-selling what I've got if possible.


texts:
I have a broken inner cage plate on my Shimano Ultegra RD-6700 GS rear derailleur. This replacement part # is Y5VG09300, and I can't find this part anywhere.
I'd really hate to throw out a perfectly good Ultegra level RD for want of 1 broken part.
Can somebody recommend a compatible replacement inner cage plate, or somewhere I can buy the correct one?
Thanks!


texts: My Road bike pedals locked up tonight. Why?

texts: I was riding my road bike and my pedals locked up and I couldn't spin anymore. I got off the bike to check the gears and chains and while fiddling with them I heard a loud POP and my rear tire popped and kind of tacoed the bike rim. Why did this happen? What did I do and what can I do to prevent this from happening again? I am new to road biking and I absolutely LOVE it!! I just want to learn more so I can no have the fear of going farther away from my house than I can run home!


texts: What do I need to know before buying a bike off of Craigslist?

texts:
I know absolutely nothing about bicycles yet I need to buy one in the next 7-9 days. I really can't afford to buy one new and my price range is in the $100-$150 area. Craiglist is my best bet for getting a decent value for my money so what should I know, check, and say when talking to the bike owners?

The one I have been eyeing is the Marin Road Bike in the first image in the description on this link:
http://fresno.craigslist.org/bik/3856785558.html


texts:
I'm looking for information about this frame- it's my trusty touring bike, and I've been gradually upgrading it - next up is to convert to 700c and a modern chainset (probably sora to keep costs down)

The frame is a Falcon, and has a decal saying 'falcon' on it, but I can't find any information about falcons anywhere - no mention on Sheldon Brown of a falcon model, and scant information on Google.

The frame is steel - 25 inch, lugged. It is pretty much the only original part of the bike!  It was originally a 10speed, down tube shifters, rear indexed, front friction.

So my questions:

Can anyone give me an approximate date for the frame?

Can anyone point me in the direction of a resource about falcons?

Are they a well known brand?

I'm thinking of getting the frame resprayed - is there anything I should bear in mind?

.

.


texts: How do I tell if jockey wheels need overhaul or replacement?

texts: I am refurbishing a bike and am deciding how much to clean out the rear derailleur.  It's in pretty good shape.  But after I take off the chain, I tried spinning the jockey wheels with my fingers (after cleaning grime off the sides), and they only spin as long as I'm touching/pushing them -- they don't spin freely.  Should I be concerned enough to take apart the derailleur and clean/re-oil or re-grease the jockey wheels?


texts:
Assume there's no visible damage to a bicycle helmet and it's been under normal use (2000-4000 miles/year).

When would you replace it? After 3 years? 5? not at all assuming it seems visibly OK?


texts:
Are full carbon forks less prone to failing from hidden defects than those with alloy steerers?

Even though the mechanics couldn't find problems with Richard Stanton's bike, his fork failed catastrophically at 35 km/h uphill. He took good care of his bike. Manufacturing flaw, frame fatigue or corrosion in the steering tube were the possible causes of the fork weakness.

If his fork was full carbon, could his diligent check ups and maintenance have prevented the accident?

From my understanding, bonded alloy can hide damages and make the tap test unreliable. You can't tap the carbon part that's covered by metal unless you separate it. Here's a tap test demonstration.

Some articles about the incident:
http://www.stickybottle.com/latest-news/amateur-rider-49-dies-on-coffee-spin-after-carbon-fork-snap/
https://cyclingtips.com/2016/12/after-the-death-of-a-canberra-cyclist-should-you-be-concerned-about-catastrophic-fork-failure/
https://www.smh.com.au/business/consumer-affairs/should-there-be-a-safe-life-for-bicycle-parts-20161118-gss41s.html
https://thewest.com.au/news/wa/cyclists-falling-victim-to-an-undetected-danger-with-their-bikes-ng-b88329369z


texts: What are good bicycle review and comparison sites?

texts:
I'm thinking of buying a new road bike on the new year but I'm unsure which model to go for.

Are there any websites that maintain comparisons of currently available models?


texts: Which type cycle should I choose. Need Help

texts:
Hi I'm looking for a cycle for long distance(50-60 km) riding in Delhi, India. I'm confused to choose between Road and Hybrid bike. If we consider roads then Hybrid is best option and if we consider distance then Road bike is best option so I'm confused between these two.

PS: I'm a beginner for gear bicycles. I used to ride non-gear bicycles for 30 kms.


texts: Gear to protect against hand injury in a crash

texts:
I commute to work a few miles on my bike in the city.  Today someone walked out in front of me and I squeezed the brakes too hard and went over the handlebars.  I suffered a mild elbow fracture because I put my arms out in front of me and the palms of my hands are destroyed.

I started thinking, I have had several incidents while commuting (mostly in snow or on leaves) and I almost always get hand injuries as a result.  I'd like to get gloves that protect my hands.

But:

I don't want the gloves to make injury to elbows, arms, head, scaphoid, or anything else greater.  That is, they shouldn't stick to the asphalt too hard nor slide too much (I think...I'm open to suggestion)
They should be comfy to ride.  I can have a separate pair for winter and summer riding.
I'd prefer if they were tough enough to withstand a few falls without taking too much damage.
I'm always on roads and bike paths, so asphalt is the only landing consideration.

I'm not sure what kind of stuff to get.  Cycling gloves seem like they are mostly leather and it seems like they would be damaged from a fall like I just had.  Motorcycle gloves seem heavier duty and have more protection, but I don't know how they would have affected this situation.  That is, I'm very glad my hands are hurt and face/head/shoulders are fine.

Is damage to wrists or scaphoid bone a serious concern?  If so, are there good gloves for that?  I'd love some suggestions.

Edit: BTW My commute is only like 20 minutes each way per day.  Long distance issues are not of concern for me.


texts: Dual gear cable setup for aerobars and handelbars

texts:
Is there a solution to set up gear shifters at the end bar of the aerobars and on the handlebars simultaniously?
It is just annoying when I am down in triathlon position and have to change the grip to go into another gear


texts:
As an keen but casual touring cyclist I'm interested in getting a little more competitive and also keeping myself comfortable over longer distances. So I'm considering getting professionally fitted, as from others' experiences it sounds good. What should I look for in a fitter and where in the UK (preferably the South) can I find a good one? I'm wary of going somewhere that will be mostly focused on selling me new parts or a new bike.

Also, would the measurements be in any way transferable to another bike? I ride a Marin San Alselmo and a Thorn Tandem, plus I'm considering something properly race-roadie as my N+1.

EDIT: I know there are a few sub-questions here and many people won't be able to answer them all, but I'd also be appreciative of partial answers.


texts: Just wondering if anyone can identify the logo of the brand on this stem, thanks.


texts:
Hi I was wondering if any bike engines would be compatible for a adults tricycle?
An example of the bike I am talking about:

TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/otuo2d2

Thank You


texts: Will tires with spikes on a loaded heavy touring bicycle puncture the tubes?

texts:
I am thinking of buying Schwalbe "Marathon Winter Plus" or "Winter" tires with spikes. I intend to use them on a touring bike which when loaded will have:

about 25kg (55 pounds) of luggage (2x5kg on the back rack and 2x5kg on the front, 3kg on the handle bar and 2kg for odds and ends).
Myself 77kg (170 pounds)
The bike itself, a Surly Troll around 18 kg (39 pounds)

I normally inflate both tires to 3bar (43 PSI).

Questions

Will this load cause the spikes to puncture the tubes?
What is the likelihood of the spikes puncturing the tubes?


texts: Restoring a steel Japanese bike from the early 80s

texts:
I recently picked up a Shogun 2001 touring bike from the early 80s. It's hardly been ridden and has a beautiful double-lugged frame with F&R racks, Al fenders and brazed-on threaded fittings for all of those those. It's an 18-speed with Shimano 600 DX brakes & hubs, Deore front & rear derailleurs & triple crank and some odd Deore pedals (see the pic). It even sported the original tires, w/the Shogun name, which are barely worn. But I have a couple of questions moving forward about bringing her back and upgrading.

I want wider handlebars -- 44cm. Where do I get those? What (stem) clamp size do I need to be looking for? Obviously it's not 38.1mm.
It has natural gum-rubber brake-lever hoods that are deteriorated. I want to replace these. What will work? I don't care about the color; synthetic black rubber hoods are fine.
It has braze-on downtube friction shifters. I want to install bar ends. What, if anything, do I need to be watching out for when I do this? Given that it's a 6-speed, do I have to us old ones, such as a set of Suntour 3090s? Or can I use newer ones that are 9 or 10 speed?
I've never seen pedals (see photo) that attach to the crank arms quite like these. There's a fat bolt spacer between the pedal and the crank arm, and they appear to be held on the back of the crank with a bolt. I don't object to these pedals but I'd like to know how to remove them if they ever need work. Can they be replaced with conventional pedals if need be?


texts: Building a traveling bike, frames and components: where to buy in Europe

texts:
I am about to either buy either build a bike for medium-long travels, and I am struggling with differences between the european and american market offer (I live in France). Talking about the beautiful salsa marrakesh, which really looks like a perfect deal for my needs, the gap between the american price in dollars and the european price is strong (frame 650$ vs 750€, bike 1650$ vs 2000€). Hence, I am wondering if someone of you knows a good european Salsa reseller with fair prices, or US seller that delivers overseas. Another option I am considering (to avoid expensive rim brakes) is the Surly long haul, but any suggestions in that direction are most welcome.

About components, the only all-covering european website that I know is bike-components.de, which is mainly focused around mtb and road bikes. While I surely can manage to combine pieces to find a good solution anyway, I'd like to know if there is a components online marketplace which mostly deals with traveling bikes and offers pieces directly on that purpose.

in a line: what's the online reference marketplace for components and frames for european bike travelers?


texts: Is it a good idea to switch to hub gear?

texts:
I have a Firefox Roadrunner Pro. I wanted to know if it was a good idea to install an internal hub gear on it. I want to install it to reduce dust accumulation and oiling and to simplify the wheel-removal process.

I have been told the I would need to add a new chain tension-er and that would eat away the advantages of the hub gear.

And which gear hubs would give a better gear ratio than i already have with my SHIMANO TZ21 14-28T, 7 speed


texts:
I've got an old `86 Raleigh fixed gear bicycle that is making a loud clicking noise when the cranks rotates. It seems to have just started doing this today. I'm looking for someone who, maybe has experienced this type of noise with a bike before, that can possibly point me in the right direction to fixing it.

Both bolts on each side are stripped so I'm not sure how I'd get it apart to see if it could be the bottom bracket, if you have any ideas on how to do that, that's appreciated too.

The only thing that I can think of that could possibly be a variable in this is yesterday I sprayed some pb blaster down my seat post and into a little hole in the frame to get my extremely stuck seat to come loose.

Anyway...here's a video of the noise:


texts: So I have a Fox float shock (a standard air shock) and I was wondering if I could use a regular tire pump or do I need a special shock pump to fill it back up? Also, are there side effects of using either one? It's a rear shock and low on air.


texts: Where to find bolts for an old Raleigh Bicycle?

texts:
The college kid in our family has a old/ancient Raleigh 3 speed bike with long fenders.  Those fenders are held in place with a strange bolt that is threaded on both ends and has a head near one end.

The short end is screwed into the frame, the long end accepts the fender rods, and then a bolt tightens down on them.

I removed the bolt with an 11/32" socket, but the closest fit I can find is a metric size.  However that fit is either too loose (5mm 0.8) or too large (6mm 1.0).  So I'm guessing some wonky British bolt, or some proprietary Raleigh bolt.  Anyway, do you know of any place that might have bolts that fit this kind of bike?

I've emailed the local Raleigh bike shop and either they don't know how to work their email, or they have no answer....

Image from comments, in-lined to prevent link rot.


texts:
My rear hub is damaged. I have not yet inspected the source of the damage, but the wheel is moving sideways when rotating (a LOT), plus I rode it like this for about 35km. Therefore, I find it probable to soon need to replace the hub.
The rim and spokes are new (couple of months of commuting). I suppose I wouldn't be running in the "old spokes new hub" problem.
I know that rear wheels are dished. Also, I have trued rims, using V-brake as a guide.
I would like to do the repair (replace the hub) myself. However, I do not own a truing stand, neither a spoke tension wrench, and find those quite pricy to purchase just for this one job.
Here I found a gem of an explanation of how to do it. Here it is concluded that without the tools, this is impossible. Here it is mentioned that experience can substitute the tools (I have none, unfortunately).
My question is "is this doable". The wheel is the cheapest around, so ruining it won't be a big deal. The wheel will be tested on a commuter bike, and not for some off-road dangerous activities.

Edit:
So I inspected the wheel and the hub is just fine. However, I have 4 broken spokes, manly loose ones, and the wheel is out of true. Sounds easy to fix!

Edit:
Thanks for the discussion. I think I will purchase 24 cheap spokes and see what happens, for the learning experience. Maybe next month there will be a question around "how do I replace my rim".
Also, thanks for the references:

Sheldon
Mike T


texts: I've just purchased a 2014 Wahoo Kickr with an 11-speed Shimano cassette on it and I'm having a bit of difficulty getting it to work properly with a Tiagra 10-speed rear-derailleur. Is this because the parts are incompatible? I'm still trying to get a sense of what are the finer details of cycling, so my apologies if I've neglected important or useful information. I will add it if so.


texts: Is there a way to syncronize cycling activities from Movescount to Runkeeper or vice versa?

texts:
I have used Runkeeper for years to track my cycling activities with my Smart phone.

Recently bought a pulse watch Suunto Ambit 2 that stores activities in the Movescount portal when the watch is docked, and my question now is if there as a easy way to record activities with the watch and then synchronize or push them to both Movescount and Runkeeper?


texts: What's the strongest way to bond a cable stop to an aluminum frame?

texts:
I recently picked up another well loved GT road bike frame- it's in great shape aside from a missing downtube cable stop. The model is a ZR 4000 probably from 1999, it's 7005 heat treated aluminum. My best guess is that the cable stop was originally glued or bonded to the frame somehow based on a lack TIG weld lines or braze. I'm not sure if the cable stop snapped off from poor storage or when the frame was in use last. It's a CL find and lived in a garage for a number of years.

What's the best way to reattach a new downtube stop? Would I have a stronger bond if the new cable stop was aluminum or plastic? I have a great work space with appropriate ventilation and equipment, but after preliminary research I've found a lot of aluminum specific products (like those used on airplanes) can't be purchased online or by individuals, so whatever product needs to be accessible in that regard.

I'm also open to non-adhesive/epoxy solutions, but the tubing is ovalized and very oversized, so using downtube shifter clamps doesn't seem feasible. As a last resort, would using a hose clamp be safe on ovalized, aluminum tubing once I got it tight enough to withstand the forces of shifting? As a last, last resort, I am prepared to run cable housing all the way from the brifter to the cable guides under the bottom bracket. I'd like a pretty bike, but ultimately this one is just for riding and not show.


texts: What does this warning symbol on my pannier bag mean?

texts:
I bought a pannier bag which attaches to the rear rack with 3 quick-releases. Each quick-release has a sticker on it:

What does this symbol mean? My guess would be something like "don't hit this with a hammer", but it seems rather unlikely that anyone would, so I'm really not sure what I'm being warned about.


texts:
I've been trying to propely adjust front gears in my bike, but failed to do so. I can't make the front gear to shift to highest gear. I can make it work when testing the bike while it's lifted, but can't make it work when actually riding it. I've followed this tutorial, but it made no effect.

Should I go to a professional bike service, or is there something more I can try doing myself?


texts: How many lumens (lm) should a front light have?

texts:
I need a front bike light for pretty quick night riding on roads beside the town. I found one that has 120lm, 30lux, and 92m shining distance.

Is it enough? What parameters should a good front light have?


texts: Why are cassettes replaced more often than front chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels?

texts:
On a bike there are three kinds sprockets that the chain comes into contact with: the chainrings, cassette, and derailleur jockey wheels.
It seems that the standard practice is to replace the cassette for every 2-3 chains or so. Chainring replacement is heard of less commonly, and it seems they last much longer than cassettes.  Why is this so?
In fact, it seems counterintuitive since each (given a 2x10 setup) each chainring is used on average five times more than each rear cog.
I can perhaps think of a few possible reasons:

Rear cogs experience more wear since they are smaller, so there is much more force on each tooth.  (However, this doesn't apply to mountain bikes, where several of the rear cogs are bigger than the smaller front chainring)
(Edit: in fact, this really isn't the case for XC mountain biking with a lot of climbing, in which much if not most of the time is spent with a front:real gear ratio of less than 1:1.)

There is more wear and tear from the chain pulling on the teeth (rear) vs the teeth pulling on the chain (front)

Front chainrings are made out of more durable material.

Finally, there are also the derailleur jockey wheels, which no one ever seems to replace, except when replacing the whole rear derailleur.  I assume that's because they aren't a "load bearing" part of the drivetrain like the cassette and chainrings are.


texts:
I have a pair of 1980s Shimano 600 brake calipers that look very similar to this

From https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict/253060189019_/SHIMANO-600-BR-6207-etriers-de-frein-brake-caliper.jpg

Sadly the cable barrel adjusters have gone missing. I thought they'd be easy to find on ebay but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for and some of them seem to be selling for several times what the calipers are worth!

The hole in the caliper arm that should hold the adjuster is not threaded internally. However, it is partly flat so the hole is not perfectly round. Could anyone suggest where I could get such a part cheaply, or a formal name for it that I could use to help me search? I'm not bothered whether it looks retro or not.

Looking at pictures on line, it looks as though sometimes there is a nut above and below the threaded barrel adjuster and sometimes only above it. In the latter case is the adjuster held in place only by the pressure of the cable outer above it?


texts: Proper spoke tension when dishing to the side of the hub

texts:
I am building wheel with 7 speed freewheel so my rim dishing needs to be towards the side of the hub.
Using 281mm spokes on both sides of the hub except for side close to freewheel used 12mm nipples and for other side 16mm nipples.
I have tension 160 kgf for spokes at hub side and about 90 kgf for spokes on opposite side.
Somewhere i read "tension for spokes ideally needs to same prevent breaking" is that same tension for all spokes on one side of the rim or every spoke on the rim needs to be same tension?
If i set same tension i will loose dishing, so if i say use 181 mm spokes on one side and 184mm spokes on other side then i can set equal tension and rim still be centered over center of fork?


texts: Help Me Identify My Uncle's Old Elevated Chainstay Bike

texts:
Please help me identify my uncle's old bike. I will greatly apppreciate all of you that willing to help mi.
Thanks to all in advance who help!


texts: How can I prevent glasses fogging when cycling in the cold with face covered

texts:
Related to this question: need cycling eyewear, but fogging is a big problem but that is more focused on the eyewear itself, whereas I'm interested in the face covering material.

I cycle to and from the train station every day. Only about 20 minutes each way but in the cold that's still quite a time to have a freezing cold nose / cheeks. So I have experimented with scarves, snoods, balaclavas etc when it's cold. However all of them cause my glasses to fog up due to the hot air of my breath condensing inside the glasses. Contacts aren't an option for my type of vision; it's glasses or nothing.

I don't want to go for some separate cycling glasses or big goggles. I have enough stuff to carry with me as it is. But I am open to an alternative way of keeping my face warm.

What should I be looking for in a product that allows me to wear glasses and still keep my face warm?

I'm not necessarily after specific product recommendations, more about materials / equipment or a specific feature to look for that can solve this issue. Because currently my options are:

a) see where I'm going, but have a freezing cold face. Or
b) Be all warm, but not be able to see so well.

Should I look for woollen scarves? balaclavas with breathing valves? A different breathable material I am currently unaware of?


texts:
I have some pedals very similar to the one in the image.
It appears both sides have these seemingly non removable pins.

The round bit with the logo doesn't appear to be a dust cap. I already tried with a flat head screw driver and a hammer.

Is it not possible to regrease these pedals?


texts: Is the lateral brake disc position standardized (and, if so, to what tolerance)?

texts:
I am thinking about getting a second wheel set for my CX bike to be able to easily swap between road and off-road tires (and possibly run a tubeless setup). The bike is equipped with 12mm through-axles (front and back) and flatmount brakes.

I am wondering (assuming same disc diameters): Would the disc rotors be exactly[1] in the same place laterally, or would I have to adjust the brake caliper position after changing the wheels?
Would it make a difference if I got the same/different brands or models of wheels/hubs?

[1] exactly: close enough, so that the brake pads don't rub on the rotors ;-)


texts: Looking for a 40 (or 48 hole) 126mm rear freewheel hub with cartridge bearings

texts:
I was just told that my wheel is toast. Really -- it's just the rim. I had another broken nipple and, when they opened it up, they said the aluminum oxide rained out of it like a salt shaker. I guess it was a while ago when I built the wheels. Ahh well, I guess that's what you get when riding year-round in Chicago where they put down two grains of salt for every snowflake.

I really would like to build up a whole new wheel as the hub has some issues. I spent some time looking around for a new hub and was stymied. Hoping someone here might have a lead.

The wheel is 6 speed and uses a freewheel. Six speeds is all I need in flat Chicago and I have a whole pile of very nice 6-speed freewheels already. Plus, my bike fits a 126mm rear wheel.

So, does anyone know anyone making a nice 126 rear hub?
40 (or 48) holes please. I carry lots of groceries and the the roads in Chicago are terrible.
Cartridge bearings please. I find cartridges fare way better in salty slush that dominates the streets for months out of the year. I'm pretty good at repacking bearings, but I really don't have the time to do it repeatedly.

thanks for any leads or insights!


texts: Mechanical cable-actuated disc brakes started working really badly

texts:
Currently I have a cyclocross bike with Tektro Lyra mechanical cable actuated disc brakes with 160mm wave rotors.

I have had issues with the brakes for some time now, mainly my fault, I accidently put some oil on the rear brakes so they almost stopped working (it was a while ago now). After properly cleaning them they seem to just slip so I ordered new brake pads.

The current problem is not the pads or oil; it's the actual cable and braking mechanism (in my opinion): when I try to brake, the cable and lever are not tight enough, but when I tighten them it becomes really hard to pull the lever. Then I checked the brakes, and compared to the front brakes, they do not 'restore' to same place - when I brake, the lever is hard to press, but then afterwards the cable does not go back to its initial place for some time. The front brakes are super easy to pull, brake fast and restore to initial position almost instantly.

What could this be? I know it's hard to explain, but it seems like the cable is moving back really slowly, and the mechanism in the rear brakes that is supposed to snap back is not as effective.

Should I just take the bike to be repaired?


texts: Raleigh 300 Crank Bolt specs for replacement

texts:
I have a Raleigh 300 and the crank bolt fell off and was lost.

I have no idea how to find out what size crank bolt I should get!

Can anyone advise?


texts: How to determine tire size when the sidewall label is unreadable?

texts:
I have a women's Mongoose hybrid bike that is older. The tires are dry rotted and I can't read the tire size info.

How do I determine what size replacements to buy?


texts:
Front brake works fine.  Rear brake does not.

I took the bike to the LBS to have the rear brake adjusted and get new pads. I expected them to work great, BUT, brake is still not stopping the wheel as it should.  Bike shop guy said something about the pads have a "glaze" on them that has to be broken in by using them.

What other possible causes should I investigate ?


texts: Why do consumer battery powered LED lights fail mid ride

texts:
I've had consumer battery powered LED bicycle lights fail mid ride without the battery being at fault.  This has been spread across brands, weather conditions, ride lengths.  The most recent failure is a rear blinkie that dies on a 6km commute.

Factors I've tested:

Water proofing.  This causes one light to fail and later recover.  But not the other which is adequately sealed.
Battery contact patches / corrosion.  This caused a third light to fail intermittantly, but isn't present in the currently failing light.
Shock.  I can't produce a shock that causes the blinkie to turn itself off.
Battery life.  I've put it on to test if it fades over half an hour.  It doesn't.

Help.


texts: Can a bmx hub support a 7 speed mountain bike freewheel?

texts: Been wanting to build a new set of wheels for my trail rig. Since my bike uses rim brakes, which work good enough to not upgrade to disc's, I'm going to re-use my old rims. Problem is they are 48 spoke. There isn't many options for 48 spoke hubs in the mountain bike search results, But many in the bmx search. Wondering if anyone has done this or just has the knowledge of why or why not this would or wouldn't work..thanks a lot.


texts: How much fork to tyre clearance do dedicated cyclo cross bikes need?

texts: I wish to take part in my first cyclo cross race but would like to avoid buying anything (other than tyres) until I have tried it. I currently ride a Kona Honky Tonk which I believe has enough clearance to have 32c tyres without fenders. Will this be enough clearance for all the mud or will it gum up the entire area and create friction and stop me mid race? Also It has dual pivot calliper brakes.


texts: I have sturmey archer xfdd and  xrd5. Which brake lever are suitable for these and drop handle bars. The cable is  road type with a barrel rather than a nipple.


texts: Would a swivel wheel trailer work with a bicycle?

texts:
I want to use a trailer with my bike but it's extremely dangerous in winter conditions due to black ice and slush.

I'm looking for a trailer that acts like 2 extra wheels for stability than just something to drag. So imagine a trailer box that is hard bolted to the bike frame so the trailer always keeps the same angle of the bike frame. The 2 wheels on the trailer pivot.

Have you ever seen this done?
Do you think it can be done with a bike?


texts: Is a bike faster than a car for the first ten metres?

texts:
The city I live in has just installed cycle boxes in front of traffic at light controlled intersections. This has spark a lot of debate online.

My experience is that I will generally, through timing and being ready in the correct gear, be able to clear the intersection from a stand still before any cars will.

Is there any science to back up my observation?


texts: What are the conditions for removing training wheels?

texts:
I have children who I'm trying to get stoked about riding bikes. I am prone to letting them try and fail, and learn from mistakes, gaining confidence as they go, but this doesn't work perfectly with their personalities. I was wondering if there was some community consensus on what what conditions should be met for removing training wheels.

What should I look for in the rider?
Are there any activities that we could do to build confidence?
Should I remove both training wheels at once, or one at a time?

I am looking for consensus, not necessarily the "right" answer, but a widely-accepted one.


texts: Handlebars wobble when gripping center of bar

texts: My handlebars wobble when I am gripping the center of my handlebars at moderate-high speed.  When holding the grips on the end of the bar it's fine but I like to sometimes give my hands a rest with a center grip.  How can you prevent this condition?


texts:
I've recently purchased a Cyclocross bike that's been great so far.  I use it to commute and race.  However, I don't find the cantilever brakes that came with it satisfactory.  I'd like to switch them out, but am not sure which would be best for what I do.  Right now I have Tektro CR720 Retro-Style Cantilevers.  They don't seem to have much stopping power.

Any recommendations on an upgraded brake.  I'll stay with the cantilever, but need something with more stopping power?  Might I just need to switch out the pads?

Any input would be appreciated.


texts: Rear derailleur got caught in the spokes, what could be a root cause

texts:
I have several problems on this bike. Here are the elements that have failed and other pieces of information:

the chain has derailed past the largest sprocket
the rear derailleur has rotated 180 degrees, and is caught in a spoke (between the frame of the derailleur and one of its sprockets)
half of the derailleur is now bent 45 degrees from its frame (derailleur on picture 2 should be U-shaped, not V-shaped)
sprockets showed some signs of wear, but not to the point where it causes the chain to skip when load is applied
the threaded hole to which the rear derailleur is screwed shows some sign of wear ( this is a modular part which is itself screwed to the frame)
rear axle is broken in half right in the middle. I don't have the tools right now to open it, I believe this requires a punch and a hammer to remove the cog set.. Right now I have already lost some bearing balls after I moved the axle from the dropouts.

Now I'm wondering if there is a single failure that could explain what happened.

Thanks to the answers, I inspected the derailleur closely and found this:

There is a missing chip exactly where the L screw is supposed to hit the frame. Apart from that and the fact that it's bent beyond repair (IMO) the derailleur is actually brand new..

Here is a picture of the broken axle I  knew something were really wrong when bearing balls started falling on the ground...


texts:
A couple of weeks ago, I broke 2 spokes and my rear wheel (27 inch) was seriously bent. I replaced these spokes and re-trued the wheel, but the next day the same thing happened, another 2 spokes snapped and my wheel was bent again. So I replaced the spokes again and re-trued the wheel.

Sure enough, the next day I broke 3 more spokes. I have repeated this "cycle" 5 times now within the last 2 weeks and I have no idea what I am doing wrong.

At first I thought the spokes were too lose so I made them all tighter, while ensuring that there was even tension around the wheel and a little extra tension on the freewheel side. When this failed I thought that maybe I had them too tight, so I tried again with the spokes a little looser but this failed too.

This wheel was purchased only 2 months ago and I have probably ridden it probably 1500 km. I also weigh about 85kg (190lb) and I very rarely ride on anything not paved. I am not convinced that the wheel has met its expected end of life based on this.

I cant determine why my wheel keeps breaking over and over again. Either there is something I am doing critically wrong in the truing process, the wheel is irreparable, or the bike shop just sold me a bad wheel. At what point should I just give up and buy a new wheel?

Edit:

I have been spray painting the spokes as i put new ones in and i found that the non painted spokes were breaking. Also they were breaking at the hub flange.

I have fixed the wheel to the point where I can ride it without the spokes breaking, but i still need to true it a little more. Im still not sure what I was doing wrong though.


texts: Best way to get rid of a "squeaky" bike?

texts: I'm a college student and my bike is part of my daily commute to class. However, last semester my bike began squeaking and the squeak got louder and louder as time went on. I tried spraying some WD-40 on the crank-shaft, but this was only a temporary fix. Is there a better way to get rid of the squeaking sound than spraying WD-40 every couple of days?


texts: What is the size of my seatpost clamp nut?

texts:
I have this bicycle given by me by a friend, I kept adjusting the height of the bicycle saddle for different members of my family and now the sides of the nut are rounded.
The nut is used to adjust the height of the bicycle saddle using a range.
I believe that the bolt is a carriage bolt? Now I am trying to find what size the nut is and the thread which I don’t understand.
Anyone know where I can buy the same nut online? Please tell me if the pictures aren’t clear, I’m still waiting to use the bike.


texts: First road bike: mech disc brakes vs dual pivot sidepull brakes?

texts:
I'm keen to buy my first road bike to do some rides around London (evening and weekend rides for exercise and travel), I've narrowed it down to 2 within my price range:
Example: Carrera Zelos from Halfords  and Triban starter from Decathlon  There doesn't seem to be too much in it but I was just wondering whether anyone had any advice or thoughts on which might be better for a beginner?
Specifically  I've read so many different opinions on mech disc brakes vs dual pivot sidepull brakes but I'm still not set either way... mech discs better in rain vs sidepulls lighter and easier to replace(?). As someone who has never maintained a bike before I don't want to go with mech disc brakes if that means having to have expensive replacements down the line that I can't do myself.
However, Halfords appeals as they offer lifetime bike health checks, warranty on the frame and Carrera seem to be a decent brand for a beginner?
Also the dual hand position brake levers (interrupter levers) on the Triban looks appealing but the handlebars seem to be quite narrow at the top and I'm thinking when I get more into cycling they may become an annoyance/no room for lights etc?
Any advice at all is much appreciated!
Many thanks in advance :)


texts: How to prevent wrist pain on road bikes?

texts: When I started bike-commuting with my road bike I developed chronic pain in my wrists. It probably took a year to go away, and now I have been free of complaints for several years. My wife just started bike-commuting with her road bike and she started to complain about painful wrists as well. I assume this has to do with holding weak wrists at an angle for an extended period of time. I was thinking about pointing her handlebars downward a bit, but am worried that she will slide off the grips mounted to the top of the handle bar (I don't know what those are called...) when she rides with her hands above the bar and has to brake abruptly. Something else we were thinking about trying is wrapping her wrists with elastic bandages, but we weren't sure if we were going to exacerbate or at least prolong the problem, since she would probably use her wrist muscles less.


texts: how to remove broken grommet from recumbent seat (without damaging mesh)?

texts:
summary: Note this question

is not about installing a new grommet: I know how to do that
is about removing a grommet, so that I can install a new grommet in the already-existing hole

details:

I have a 25-year-old SWB mesh-seat recumbent that still works quite well, but

is showing its age, in that various non-standard parts are needing replacement
its manufacturer no longer supplies replacement parts

One thing I'd like to replace is its seat, but for now I'll settle for replacing its broken grommets, mostly to prevent further damage to the seat. The broken grommets are currently all on the left side (facing) of the upper part of the seat:

(Note also that the rear/underside of the grommets are also broken similarly.) Here's a detail of 2:

The grommet holes are presumably still in good condition, though that will presumably not last: see lower grommet in above detail. I have grommets and install tools, so can presumably install new grommets in the grommet holes ... if I can get the old grommet pieces out. (FWIW, I have some replacement grommets that appear to be the same sizes as the original, but one will not fit over the existing/broken grommet.) How to remove the old/broken grommets without damaging the grommet holes?

Note also that I do not want to cut new holes (which I also know how to do) if there is any way to remove the old grommets.

Some things I have tried and rejected:

Prying the old-grommet pieces up with a small/thin screwdriver. I can't get any purchase--those old grommets are very firmly seated into the mesh.
Pulling the old-grommet pieces off with needlenose pliers. That kinda works, in that I can pull off very small pieces (i.e., the width of the needlenose) of the old grommet. Unfortunately, in addition to being tedious, this also leaves a jagged and convex edge where the piece has been removed.


texts: Replacement shifter for Shimano exage 7-speed - modern shifter compatible?

texts:
I've got an early 1990s Schwinn Crosscut with Shimano Exage LX400 components.  I've just pulled it out of storage.  The bike is in pretty good shape overall.  The derailleurs are moving freely and the gears and cranks don't have any significant visible wear.

The front shifter ratchet mechanism was stuck.  I couldn't get in very well but i sprayed it down with WD-40 and tried to work the mechanism, but no luck.

I replaced it with a Shimano Altus SL-M310.  that is working mostly, I've got it adjusted to the point that  the chain rubs slightly on the front derailleur when on both the smallest crank and rear gear, I can live with that.

Meanwhile, the rear shifter failed while I was testing the new front shifter.  Similar ratchet mechanism stuck.

I can easily enough (hah) replace the front shifter with the matching right side SL-M310, but with 7 speeds instead of 3 there's a lot less room for error.  Is this new shifter likely to have the same distance between gears as the old derailleur?


texts: Will These Bike Racks Fit a 2002 Citroen Berlingo?

texts:
Could someone please advise me as to whether either (or both!) of the following bike racks will fit on the back of a 2002 Citroen Berlingo?

3 Carrier with Clips
2 Carrier without Clips

Please note: these are links to eBay (UK) listings - I realise that this is irregular, but I couldn't actually find the manufacturer's website for them!
They are both strap-mounted, not tow-bar mounted; I do not have a tow-bar. Please note that it is a van and so has a vertical rear, not like a saloon/hatchback/estate, but to a smaller degree with an estate.
I am looking to mount a road/racing bike and a mountain bike on it. I would prefer the 3 Carrier with clips, since, well, it holds three and has clips (!), but if it doesn't fit and the other one does, then the other one will do fine. :)
Thanks in advance! :)


texts: Are there permanently mounted bike computers?

texts:
Over the years I've owned multiple bike computers (whose things that tell your speed/distance). Each time the head either falls off while I'm riding or I remove it, but lose it somewhere.

I want my next purchase to be one that is permanently affixed to my handlebars so that it never falls off or gets lost. I'm looking for one with strong mounting mechanism. I want to have to get out a screwdriver to replace the battery. I can't seem to find any one on the market that does this. Any help?


texts: Why has the Centeron pulley disappeared on many Shimano rear derailleurs?

texts: I have no idea if it's only some mechs or all nowadays but a while back I noticed its absence. Always thought it was a clever design to aid alignment when things were slightly out of adjustment. Derailleurs still go out of alignment despite changes in design such as actuation ratios etc. so why the change?


texts: which multi-speed hub should I upgrade my trek district to

texts:
So my rear freewheel hub broke on my single speed belt driven (no metal chain) trek district.

Since I have to replace the rear hub, I'm thinking of replacing the rear hub with an internally geared multi-speed one.  All the bike shops around here seem to have the Sturmey-Archer 3spd, wheras all the youtube videos of people replacing their Trek District hubs are with Shimano Alfine 8 speed.

I'm riding mostly flats and just need the gears for an uphill bridge (Williamsburg Bridge from Brooklyn to Manhattan) that I ride over every day.

Which hub should I get?  Is the Sturmey-Archer 3spd fine?  How would the gears on that 3 speed compare to the single speed gearing that I currently have?


texts: Should I get an air sprung or a coil sprung rear shock FS mountain bike?

texts:
I have not bought one yet, and I am very new to the sport. The type of riding I will be doing is dirt jumps (rather large ones) and rugged trail riding. I used a BMX for these things previously, which actually worked out pretty well. As a newbie to the sport, I am just wondering: which type of rear shock would be best to look for: air, or coil?

I want something that is going to be easiest to maintain, and most efficient while riding. A bike I have been looking at is the Scott Voltage FR 30/20/10 models (these all have a spring rear shock) or a Trek Slash 9/8/7 model (which have a hydraulic type shock). I am leaning towards the Scott Voltage bikes, they look simpler, but I am unsure.


texts: Slight play/jiggle in rear wheel, bolt speed-thru axle is fully tightened?

texts:
Bike is a Cannondale Topstone Ultegra RX2. Rear hub is a Formula RXC-400, 12x142 centerlock.
I got a flat rear tire on a ride and swapped the tube. When I retightened the thru axle I noticed that there was definitely some play in the rear wheel, even when the axle was fully tightened. Seems like the hub is slightly loose or something. I can provide pictures of the hub body etc if needed. I'm not quite sure how to fix this problem.
Removing the wheel at home and inspecting the cassette, it feels very slightly loose with some horizontal play. I guess I need a lockring to tighten it?
Images available here: https://imgur.com/a/xflq8qL


texts: What is a simple mnemonic for remembering the thread direction when removing pedals?

texts:
Given that pedal threads are different on the left and right pedals: the right side pedal has a right-hand thread (removes counterclockwise, installs clockwise); the left side pedal has a left-hand thread (removes clockwise, installs counterclockwise), I often find myself trying to remember which way to turn the wrench to loosen a pedal.

Does anyone have a good-- preferably humorous and easy to remember-- mnemonic device to forever ingrain in my memory which pedal goes which way and keep me from over-tightening when I am trying to loosen?


texts: What are the advantages and disadvantages of riding a smaller Mountain Bike frame?

texts:
I am 182cm (5' 11'') tall and am looking into buying a new frame for my mountain bike.

Right now i have a 19'' frame and i found a good deal on a 17'' frame.

The guy from the shop told me that it shouldn't be a problem for me to get a 17'' frame since you can have a longer stem and seat post so its fits alright.

Smaller frame means lighter but what are other advantages and disadvantages ?
Would you choose a smaller frame ?

Update
The difference top length (seat tube to handlebar stem) from my 19'' to this 17'' is 1cm.


texts: Just how much difference does your bike make?

texts:
I'm new to cycling and got a cheap (not the very cheapest probably one step up) mountain bike as a way to get around the country lanes in Cornwall, with the odd rough track here and there down to a beach.

I am curious about the quantitative differences I'd see if I had:

The same type of bike but much lighter
the same bike but more road focused tyres
an actual road bike

My interest is more on ease of getting up hills and conserving energy in general than raw speed... Can anyone give me firm figures or real life comparisons?


texts: How much steerer tube length do I need on my suspension fork

texts:
I have survived BB hell with minor bruising to be greeted with another challenge replacing forks.

I have a 1996 TREK 8000 SHX (yellow) and a 2002 TREK 4300 (silver/blue) MTB bikes. Both bikes have 21" frames. I want to get my wife and I into trail riding and I am looking to replace the suspension forks.

As beginners, I do not want to break the bank buying these forks. I know a crucial point is getting the steerer tube length and diameter correct. What are my considerations? Is there a way to look up the lengths of the tubes for 21" frame? I do not have the physical old parts.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Chain rubbing on rear derailleur cage after replacing crankset

texts: I bought a new Shimano 3-ring crankset for my aged MTB (5-speed at the rear) and updated the BB to the recommended length (9.5mm longer than I previously had with 2-ring cranks)for the new cranks. Now the chain rubs on the outer side of the rear derailleur cage when shifted to the large sprocket and the middle ring. Does this suggest the chainline of the new cranks is too big?


texts: I was in a collision the other day. What should I check?

texts:
I was making a left hand turn the other day when a u-turning vehicle t-boned me.

I somehow managed to land on my feet, but the bike didn't fare as well. It landed on the drive side.

My back wheel was tacoed, and the driver bought me a replacement.

Now that I've had some time to install the replacement, I'm noticing that either my derailleur or the hanger is bent. It looks like it's the hanger, but is there a way to tell?

What else should I check? I've cleaned up the frame looking for cracks and it all looks good. It's a pretty robust aluminum frame, so I'm not surprised. Is there anything else that may be wrong?


texts: mix left shifter and font derailleur of different speed

texts: I have a Shimano 5700 front derailleur and 5700 flat bar shifter (left) but for some reason I can't use the FD on my frame (too narrow, my driven train is 9 speed). After lot of research some people suggest using Shimano 2400 FD (8 speed). I am going to try but my question is can I still use the 5700 flat bar shifter (left), which is for 10 speed driven train?


texts:
I was plucking at the spokes of my rear wheel today which has an asymmetric lacing pattern. It's 2 spokes (both tangential to the rim) on the drive side along with a single spoke on the non-drive side. There are 7 of these triplets spread across the rim.

So in one pair of DS spokes, one spoke had a dramatically different pitch than the other spoke in the pair. This spoke also felt a tiny bit looser when pushed on.

Spinning the wheel and using the brake blocks as a reference, the rear wheel is slightly out of true. There is some lateral bias - but the runoff looks pretty tiny. Definitely not an issue even when running brake pads very close to the rim. This to me suggests that this should not be an issue. Blame me for being paranoid regarding an expensive wheelset that's almost brand new.

In any case, what are the chances of having this loose spoke pop in the future? Should I bring the wheel into a shop and ask for a truing? Do all shops check for even spoke tension at the end of a truing? I've heard of people who got their wheels trued only to end up with a cracked rim shortly afterward or popped spokes - presumably because the mechanic didn't bother to check spoke tension.


texts: Accessory to raise handlebars (on a bmx)

texts:
I just bought a used bmx bike and after raising the seat to a level where it is semi-comfortable to pedal while on the seat, I now find that the handlebars are too low.

Is there any sort of an after market accessory I could buy that could raise the handle bars up several inches?

UPDATE:
Here are some photos:
http://imgur.com/a/c55Mv


texts: Which kind of crank arm for my bottom bracket

texts:
I'm trying to make my indoor bike smarter by fitting a crank arm power meter.
The bottom bracket is a Tange bc 1.37x24t. Apparently it is of the English kind which is the most common.
Since there are many different models (Shimano, Cannondale, etc...) for the same kind of crank arm power meter, I would like to know which is more appropriate for my bottom bracket.
Thank you


texts: Choice of spare tyre and tube in Europe for 40-559(ETRTO) or 26"X1.5

texts:
I am currently having tyre 40-559(ETRTO) or 26"X1.5 and tube picture. But I recently thought of buying a spare tube and tyre(available on some offer). However, I had a hard time in matching it with my current tyre dimensions.

Tube on offer: HUTCHINSON 650x28-42 A/B (26x1"1/4 / 1"3/8)
(ETRTO 28/42 - 571/584)

And a tyre also on offer:

VTC 37-590 1 26x1-3/8 650x35A HS348

As I am new please forgive me for the obvious or senseless questions. But I didn't seem to get help from the shops or Google search.


texts: How can I safely clean Stan's tubeless tyre sealant from carbon rims?

texts: I had a minor accident and spilled a lot of Stan's tubeless sealant on my carbon rims, which has unfortunately dried and become quite difficult to remove. What is the easiest and safest way to get dried sealant off carbon rims without damaging them? I guess alcohol might do the trick, but I am a bit afraid that it may damage decals and such.


texts: Chain replaced but bottom jockey wheel "jumps"?

texts: I have a 10speed MTB and replace the chain using a powerlink.  Now the bottom pulley wheel makes like a jumping kind of movement.  It is not smooth.  Also when in my small ring in front I get chain suck.  It sucks!! I never get chain suck :(


texts: Chain slips to lower gear when pedaling backwards

texts:
I have a hybrid 18 speed bicycle which is able to shift through all gears on both the front and rear sets of gears.  When on the largest gear on the front set (by the pedals) the chain will try to slide to the next smaller gear when pedaling backwards.  It is as if the chain in bent or not moving in a spot.

There is also a cyclical click when pedaling forwards in higher gears with an occasional slip.  It seems the chain may be uneven in several links.

What is the most likely cause/fix for this?


texts: Do Italian frame sets use different sized components to bikes in the USA?

texts: I want to restore an Italian made bike but I am not sure if components I buy in the US will fit.


texts: Apollo XC26 mountain bike, convert it to a coaster brake fixie?

texts:
Hi a few years ago I acquired this bike:

It's a pretty crappy bike, it's cheap, poor quality parts and not really a mountain bike... but that is why i love it. It means i have to pay extra attention when taking fast sections of downhill, land properly when doing jumps and if anything brakes it doesn't really matter as the bike was cheap. I buy more cheap parts and get to learn how to build and repair a bike as i go, this bike is a learning experiment for me, as I do not want to spend £1000s on a good downhill bike i bought this second hand for £20 and rag it and then replenish the parts.

However i want to make some modifications; i would like it to be like an old school BMX:
 - Fixie
 - Coaster brake
Reason for this is the cables get in the way, the gear system is that inneffective twist shift, they don't work properly and it is just another cheap component that will break.

I know i can change this into a fixie, but can i also give it coaster brakes?
If i do will i still be able to somewhat downhill and jumps?
Thanks
Dan

EDIT

it is horizontal drop outs so i think it should be possible, but i have not had much experience


texts: I have Shimano STI shifters (model ST 2300) and the shifter lever (the part for braking and shifting) is loose. So if I hold the head (cockpit) and move it, the head also moves a bit. How can I tighten this?


texts:
Why is it that many people often recommend against using kickstands on mountain bikes? Does it have something to do with offroad riding (perhaps something could get caught there?), or are kickstands a problem with suspension frames, or what?

Most bikers riding MTB specifically do not have kickstands. They simply drop a bike on the ground, or lean it somewhere, when they need to park it.

Why is that? Is the added weight really that much of a trouble?


texts: What are some notable differences between a 20'' trial bike and a BMX bike?

texts: I was wondering what are the differences between a small (20'") trial bike and a BMX? Were I to choose one to buy, what should I consider before I make my decision?


texts:
Can I put "new" 27 and half inch tires on "old" 27 inch rims?  Looking to
save the trouble of finding out!


texts: What should I look for in an indoor cycle trainer?

texts:
I'm considering getting an  indoor cycle trainer . I had a look on ebay. There are a lot, and the price ranges from under 20 pounds to several hundred pounds. Quality and function range accordingly, so I'm a bit lost.

My main reason for getting it is to use it for cardio fitness training. So, I'm looking for something that meets these criteria

a) Its got to be stable (no annoying rocking / wobbling)
b) As small/compact as possible so it can be packed away (while meeting criteria a)
c) I can change the resistance, or incline to increase the cardio workout. Preferably mid workout.

Can anyone recommend a trainer that meets these requirements?


texts:
I'm having neck pains and muscle cramps when I go for long rides (> 90kms) . I don't know if the reason is due to big kms or is it the fit of the bike.
I live in India where a bike fit costs 12000 INR($195).
Do you suggest me to get a bike fit compulsorily ??

Thanks.


texts:
I'm trying to save an old Trek and need to remove the bottom bracket.

The crankset says FC-M361 but when I google that it says that's a square taper bottom bracket. This surely doesn't looks like a square taper. How do I remove it and what's it called?

Update

I just realised that my crank removal tool cant do this type of square taper. I have been using this for 10+ years on many bikes and it has always worked.

Update 2

It is an octalink. My neighbour had a tool and removal was straight away.

Thanks!


texts:
I had two new tires put on my bike and the LBS used Finish Line sealant.
I have managed to puncture after 5 rides. The tire doesn’t lose much air, but air still bubbles out. My experience with Stans sealant on the previous tires is it did a good job.
I was going to syringe it out the Finish Line and replace with Stans, will this compromise the Stans?


texts: Noleen ATS Comp 26 Front Fork Shocks - Oil Needed?

texts: I purchased a VERY used 2003 26inch K2-Zed 1.0 (Small Frame) from a guy for $10 and am attempting to restore it for my 15 year old daughter who says she has outgrown her 20 inch bike. The front forks had a decal on the side (Noleen ATS Comp 26) were in bad shape and were completely frozen when I got the bike although I was able to get them moving slightly again after much rust remover/disassembly/cleaning/lubricating (trying to keep it as original as I can as the bike is as old as my daughter which I thought was cool). The bike was in various stages of disrepair and the forks came with plastic one fork tube cap (threaded) and a spring with two plastic attachments on either side. One side of the fork tubes is threaded at the top so I assumed that is probably where the spring goes but my question is what, if anything, goes on the other side and does it require fork oil when I'm reassembling it (if so, how many cc)? I have searched the starting with their company site but so far I can't even find specs on the forks, much less a diagram. Anybody out there know how these forks were put together originally? Thanks in advance for any time you spend helping out and let me know if pictures of the disassembled forks would help.


texts: Can someone tell me the handlebar diameter of a Carerra TDF road bike from Halfords

texts:
Does anyone know or can measure the diameter of the handlebars for the Carerra TDF road bike from Halfords.

It was bought a few years ago and the similar specs on the site aren't helpful.

This would be at the point where you'd fit cross top levers, so not at the stem.

Update. It's not my bike hence why I can't measure it. Otherwise I wouldn't be asking. Hoping someone has it and can measure or already knows.

Update 2. I'd hoped to get lucky and that someone here had this bike. Is anyone good at eyeballing the diameter from a video?


texts: Disk brake squealing after bike shop changed my pads. Is it enough reason to ask them to re-service (for free)?

texts:
I recently took my bike to the shop, since it started making a weird metal on metal (not squeal, just hard brushing sound). After checking it out they saw that the back brake pads were really (REALLY) worn down, so they changed them.

Now my bike is doing a really loud screechy sound when I use the back brakes, and the bike doesn't even stop that fast, I remember my back brakes being pretty strong, completely stopping the back wheel even if I was going fast (of course, if I was going fast it would drift a little.. but the wheel was locked). Now it's making this loud sound and just kind of slowing me down slowly, but not fully breaking.

I didn't know if this was normal.. but after reading a few question here like this, it seems like it is definitely not. (Fixing noisy V brakes)

Is this a legitimate reason to take the bike back to the shop and tell them there is something wrong with their work?

Thanks!


texts: Any suggestions on how to reduce/eliminate the squeaking sound on my Shimano V-brakes? I dont remember doing anything, i just wipe my bike and rims every after ride.


texts: Upgrade old Gary Fisher MTB drive train to 10 speed

texts:
Las year I purchased a old 1998 or 1999 Gary Fisher Tassajara MTB. It came with 519 Weinmann wheels 26x1.5/559. There is no brand on the rear hub, I believe they are part of those Weinmann wheels.

Will a 10 speed cassette fit? Running 8 speed cassette at the moment.


texts: How should I route the front derailleur cable on a bike without lugs or guides?

texts:
I have just realised that the old touring frameset I bought has doesn't have routing lugs for the front derailleur cable.

The downtube and the top of the right-hand chainstay have lugs for the rear derailleur cable. For the other one, nothing. There's no bolt-hole underneath the bottom bracket to mount a guide either.

It's a steel Dawes Galaxy. I suppose I could drill a hole underneath the bottom bracket to mount a guide, but I'm puzzled how the cable would have originally been run.


texts: If I can't find the hole causing a flat tire, do I need to replace the tube?

texts:
My back tire got flat. If I pump it up now, it can hold the air for about 30 minutes to an hour before it's totally flat.

I took out the inner-tube yesterday, pump in a bit air and put it into water, trying to find a hole but couldn't find anything.

Could it be that the tire is too old and I must replace it?

EDIT: thanks to all your response. Beside soap water, I found out hot water is really helpful and that was what I used to fix my tire. There was a very tiny hole on the tube that I couldn't find when I used room temperature water.


texts: Bottom bracket lock ring loose - how should I tighten it

texts:
I can feel so laterial play when grab hold of the crank arms then wiggle it side to side. I discovered the lock ring  was very loose. So much so i could turn it with my fingers without any effort.

When I tightened the lock ring just by hand, the play went away. I loosened it then it came back.

Does this mean my bb is unscrewing itself from the frame and i need to tighten it up?

Is this a job for a  newbie home mechanic to attempt?


texts:
It's getting chilly out there and my knees are starting to hurt from my short commute. I tried layered trousers (thick jeans + windstopper on top), but to no avail - my knees still get cold, while my whole legs sweat.

I am thinking of some kind of kneepads. If a product could provide (listed in decreasing order of priority):
(1)warmth
(2)comfortable to wear all day, under baggy trousers
(3)knee joint support, as this is the joint I (ab)use the most
(4)knee protection during falls
it would be perfect!

I tried two types: volleyball sports soft pads, and medical support pads (from the pharmacy, very cheep). The volleyball are wonderfully warm; however both begin to come loose after maybe half an hour of riding.


texts:
I have a gravel bike with an MTB setup. SRAM GX rear mech, SRAM XO shifter, 1x11 system, Shimano disc brakes. How would I go about replacing my flat handlebars with road bars?

Alternative 1
Get a hold of a Shimano 11-speed shifter, a brake lever and a Jtek Shiftmate to convert from Shimano ratio to SRAM.

Alternative 2
Get a hold of SRAM 11-speed road shifter and brake lever. Also need new hydraulic brakes which are not compatible.

Alternative 3
Get new mechanical disc brakes. Get SRAM shifters with mechanical levers.

So what is the best alternative? Or do I have more options?

And can I use SRAM GX rear mech with SRAM Apex or Rival shifters without a ratio adapter like Jtek Shiftmate?

Much appreciated. Cheers!


texts: Should square taper cranks be greased before installation?

texts:
There’s a fierce debate over whether the interface between a square taper spindle and crankarm should be lubricated or not. Adding to that, everyone seems to have their own take on the issue. Here’s some opinions I’ve heard thus far:

Perfectly clean and dry. (Use solvent to clean the spindle.)
Coated with a complete layer of grease.
Extremely thin coating of grease. This entails putting some grease on, then wiping it all off again to leave just the thinnest layer of grease remaining.
Oiled

Proponents of installing cranks dry say it’s to stop the spindles from excessively deforming the crankarm. Proponents of lubricated install say it’s to ensure the the crankarm gets smoothly and consistently pressed onto the spindle, and to prevent galling/corrosion. Everything else falls in between these two extremes.
Is there a definite best practice?
I honestly can’t believe this question hasn’t been asked already!


texts: What to do with too many old bike parts and frames to count

texts: The side of our house is filled with old bike frames, parts, accessories, etc. - Once I hose them off and clean them up, I would LOVE to get rid of them.  Where's a good place to sell them?


texts: What are the differences (and their practical implications) between a 29" mountain bike and a cyclocross bicycle?

texts:
I am considering the purchase of a bicycle for riding off road, and have heard a lot of buzz about 29" mountain bikes. However, I am not particularly interested in technical riding - although I would like to be able to ride through most things, even if I have to do so slowly.

I am leaning to a CX bike because I am familiar with the handle bars and geometry. However, the 29" also ride very smoothly. I can see that the tires, handlebars, suspension, and geometry are different, but what are the consequences of these differences that I need to consider?

Mountain Bike:

Cyclocross Bike:


texts: Which type of handle bars are best for off-road & road use?

texts:
There are quite a lot of types of bars. Some best bit for aerodynamics, some best fit for control, some offer significant amount of positions.

I am looking to change my handlebars to the best fit type for both off-road rides which should offer a lot of control of bike and for road use, provide variety of positions, to gain aerodynamic form.

I was using a curved handle bars (also referred too as raised bars) before, it provide a lot of control over turn, but except that it was fine.

And does the width of the bar affect riding?


texts:
Background: I'm overhauling/refurbishing my second road bike that I use mainly for training. It needs new wheels.

I found a couple of nice used 2011 wheelsets that were spares for a women's bike team and saw very little use. The rear wheels are 28 spokes; I have a choice for the front wheels. Either 20 spoke or 24 spoke. What should I think about to make the choice? (clinchers)

I weigh 160lbs if that matters.


texts: Which bike computer is best purely for navigation?

texts:
Priorities being:

clear navigation prompts/pop-ups;
screen size;
map layout/colouring/clutter(lack of);
calculation speed.


texts: How do I get a Garmin Cadence Sensor 2 to pair with an iPhone?

texts:
I have bought a Garmin Cadence Sensor 2. After installing it on the bike and rotating the cranks to wake it up, theoretically I should be able to pair it with my iPhone but it doesn’t appear in Bluetooth Settings. The documentation is abysmal and doesn’t go into any useful detail on the pairing procedure. What’s the trick to get it to show up?
(The iPhone is a 12 Mini running iOS 14.2, but I couldn’t get it to work with my iPhone X on iOS 13 either.)


texts: Will carbon fork make a huge difference when commuting?

texts:
I am considering a hybrid commuter bike, in particular I like Specialized Sirrus Elite Disc. This model however does not sport a carbon fiber fork. Only the more expensive model does, which I do not have budget for.

Another candidate would be Trek Crossrip, which does have carbon fork. Should I make getting carbon fork a priority, will it make a real difference on my ~13 km commute? I sometimes do ride over surfaces like this, that's why I'm concerned:


texts: The back brake on my bike is not functional, is it illegal for me to cycle in the United Kingdom?

texts: I live in the UK and cycle to and from work. I recently noticed that the back brake on the bike is not functioning. Is it legal for me to be cycling on the road (the front brake works fine but it is a bit difficult to stop at, for example, pedestrian crossings)


texts:
I have a Diamondback Apex with Rockshox xc30 and all I did was turn the knob for the preload adjustment and it suddenly came off. I tried putting it back together but it won't go all the way back in. I try riding it but even the lockout won't hold the crown from slipping all the way down. This makes the hole spring be seen and the handlebars very low. The suspension is now rough and useless.
What should I do?


texts: Is it safe to put child seat on drivers seat post?

texts:
I purchased a Hamax child seat (not unlike this one), but when attaching it to the frame the child seat is too low and is touching the rear wheel.

As you can see in the photo, I don't think I can secure it higher up in the frame.

Is it safe if I attach it to the seat post?


texts: Just yesterday I noticed that my tyres soon need to be changed but my tyre size is  27.5 x 2.8 But the closest sizes I can find are 2.35, 2.4, 2.1. Those were the closest sizes I could find in store (because I don't buy stuff overseas). What should I do or which size will fit?


texts: What are the pros and cons of internal gears?

texts:
I've had my hybrid 24-speed for a bit over 3 years now, and just last weekend, when looking for a bike for my wife, discovered internal gears. Suffice to say it blew my mind when I saw 7-speed internal gear hubs, for example on this This Giant Suede Women's bike.
So the question is, what are the trade-offs between the internal gear hub and an external gear hub and derailleur?
I'm assuming they'll be more expensive? but what about the set of gear ratios they provide? the reliability? the serviceability? tuning/maintenance? other effects on the chain/sprockets?
Going back to the bike linked above, there's a near-identical model (picture) with 21-speed external gears that's considerably cheaper, and I'm wondering whether the extra money for the internal gears would buy any real benefits (e.g. longer lasting chains/sprockets or fewer services), or whether it's just for fashion?


texts: Styles of Shoe Covers for Colder Weather

texts:
After getting this pair of shoe covers,

I'm wondering whether this style of closure (zipper behind the foot) is reasonable.
I suspect that after the inevitable bit of walking on grass and asphalt, they'll be too mucky, and require ongoing cleaning.
The trouble, it seems, is that they must be put on after the shoes. These shoe cover only make sense for cleated shoes. One puts on the shoes, then pulls these shoe covers over the shoes, while adjusting the neoprene so that the cleats and the heels poke through the two openings at the bottom of the shoe covers.
Another style, one with velcro closure that wraps around the foot between the heel and the cleats, seems more sensible.
That style can be worn along with regular cycling clothes. The shoes are put on later, and then it's simply a matter of pulling the velcro shut.
Can you comment? I need these covers as a solution to feet getting too cold, and nearly numb, at just 12°C/54°F. I am looking for a solution that will enable riding until freezing (then I'll park during winter).
Related:
1,
2,
3.
So far I'm riding with synthetic base layers and wool (skiing) socks. I feel that switching to wool base layers and thicker wool socks will be all that's necessary to continue riding until freezing (with thin tires).
Update
It is a very small detail, but it may be worthwhile being aware of it, at least for some.
Style 1, (the one pictured: wear shoes; pull over; zip) requires having some bench next to one's bike. Putting them on without a bench or a seat is significantly more awkward than trying to wear socks without sitting down.


texts: is it possible to go and install a suspension onto a bike that dosen't have any suspension?

texts: I have a huffy 3.0 fortress mountain bike, I have to ride on some bumpy roads and trails, I have a friend who has a bike that has suspension. I rode it once and it was very smooth when I went over a speed bump. So I wondered if it was possible to install a suspension onto my bike. I tried to search it up, but I didn't find anything helpful. So I decided to see if any of you can answer that.


texts: Can cyclists legally ride on the sidewalk?

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Can cyclists ride on the sidewalk? What if the road in question has no bike lane? If cyclists can ride on the sidewalk, does it matter which side of the road the sidewalk is on? I live in California - would the law vary by state or locality?

Are there other concerns outside of the legality to consider?


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I bought a new bike with hydraulic brakes in september 2019. It was working fine for a few weeks but after that I started to notice my disks blackening and the brakes lacking power.I got told that there was probably air in the system so went to the shop to get it fixed which they did for free as it hadn't been over 6 weeks since the purchase.This is a link to the old thread which helped me a lot but I haven't had a chance to visit the shop due to bad weather. Hydro brake disk blackening
It's been about 2 to 3 months since that thread and the weather finally settled this weekend so I took my bike out only to find that none of my brakes work at all now.Im not sure what to do now.Id be grateful if anyone can help.BTW they are Clarkes brakes


texts: How to install a Rohloff Speedhub on a Surly Troll with rear facing horizontal fork ends

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I have a Surly Troll with rear facing horizontal fork ends.

Is there a recommended way of installing a Rohloff Speedhub 14 on the Surly Troll? These answers mention tugnuts and washers, but perhaps Rohloff have their own adapter for this type of bicycle / fork end.
Or perhaps the Surly Troll with these fork ends wasn't made for an IGH?

Pictures of the fork ends (this is a pre 2017 Surly Troll):


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Here's some photos:on the left is the suspension,on the right is the crank set,on the bottom left is the front derailleur and on the bottom right is the back derailleur

I recently spray painted my bike that was given to me by someone, and then, I suddenly got curious to find what is the brand of this bike but i couldn't as it was covered, so any idea what brand it might be?

Also, will it be suitable to ride on rough terrains using it? or parts to upgrade it?

EDIT: After a month of research, I think this is an EVEREST brand mountain bike.is it any good?   And it is steel?


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I have a one-year-old REI CTY 1.3. Aluminum frame, belt drive, with an eccentric BB shell for tensioning the belt. The bottom bracket itself is a standard Shimano BB-RS500, but I cannot identify the eccentric shell. At first glance it looks like a Bushnell unit, but it seems to be a solid machined aluminum cylinder (on the Bushnell the crescent shaped piece with the holes is separate).

I cannot get the shell to rotate in the frame at all.

There is a single bolt (socket-head cap screw in a counter-sunk hole) that runs the full length of the shell. I assume that bolt tightens some sort of internal wedge against the frame.

I've tried removing the bolt completely, as well as unscrewing it part way and tapping the bolt head with a hammer. I've tried to move the shell with a pin spanner, and also dropping a long allen key in one of the holes and using the crank arm to get more leverage. Nothing budges.

I assume the wedge mechanism is not un-wedging. Since I don't know what's going on in there I don't know what to try next without potentially damaging something... Any ideas?


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I can't remove the key, or open, my brand new Kryptonite lock. I can twiddle the key with about 60 degrees of movement from current position; and have attempted every movement I can think of. Have tried putting a drop of lubricant in to see if it would help.

Any advice?

UPDATE: was impossible to remove the key, so it got sent back to the retailer for a refund. I would never buy a Kryptonite lock again, if it had been on my bike this would have been a complete disaster.


texts: Do mid-low end bike manufacturers only design their bikes to last 1000 miles?

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When exploring a braking system, I noticed with surprise that they tested their brake actuations to match the 1000 mile quality life expectation of a comfort bike. This seems to imply that this is the expected design life.

Since the page is oriented towards bicycle manufacturers, can we imply that 1000 miles is the expected design life of mid- and low-end bicycles? The lab itself seems rather legit:

This does hinge on what "quality life span" and "comfort bike" mean.

tl;dr: Is there evidence that the industry believes that 1000 miles is the reasonable lifespan of a low- to mid-end bicycle?