texts: DIY Painting a Bike Frame: Is it possible?

texts:
I have painted a couple bike frames (think really cheap garage-find rebuilds) with varying degrees of failure. Can you help me correct/fill in the missing pieces of my frame painting process?

Breaking Down the Bike: Remove everything except the Bottom Bracket, which can be masked. (Removing BB is to easy for me to mess up) Fork can be removed and painted separately.
Stripping old paint off a bike frame: Easy enough using scraper, sandpaper, and even super-dangerous paint stripper.
Cleaning off Rust: Rust can be sanded off pretty easily, even using tinfoil on sensitive/chrome areas works really well.
Masking: Mask the BB, the Fork and Seatpost holes, and anything else that shouldn't be painted.
Priming: A few coats of primer is absolutely necessary to fight rust.
Painting: Here's where I am lost.  I have heard these options:

Spraypaint/Rattle-Can: Worst Method, use Engine-Coat Epoxy paints, many coats, need to cure for weeks before anywhere near scratch-resistant.  Even then a strong fingernail seems to be able to strip paint.
Powder-Coating at an AutoBody shop: Don't know much about the cost EDIT: Costs around $200, according to wdypdx22 below. or pros and cons. Probably not financially feasible on a garage-find bike build, or am I wrong?
Other Options?


texts: My rear derailleur adjustment screws are in a vertical line there is no scew indicating inner and outer.  Without removing it I can't see which screw is touching at each side of the cassette. Does the upper screw relate to the big cog or the little one?


texts: I currently own a 2015 GT Verb Expert. And after watching a Red Bull rampage video I started wondering can I put a 200mm fork on my Verb Expert. Or does my head tube need to be more angled. And is it possible that it could snap my frame if I install one?


texts: What's the easiest way to insert a star nut into a steerer tube?

texts:
I need to install one of those star-fangled nuts, but I don't do this often enough to warrant buying a special tool for it.  I usually manage to hammer the thing in eventually but in the past it has taken quite a while to get it in straight and once I even broke the nut.

Is there a reliable DIY solution using cheap bits from the hardware store?  I am currently thinking perhaps try some PVC tube and a rubber bung.


texts: Where is the rear wheel quick-release mechanism on my bike?

texts:
Below are two pictures of my road bike's rear wheel (from the left and the right-hand side). As you can easily notice the tire is flat, and I suspect the tube needs to be changed since it's an old bike.

So I need to remove the rear wheel first, but all the videos on Youtube that show you how to do that work on a quick-release mechanism (which is quite straightforward).

I wonder how I can remove the wheel in my case (and what's the name of this model of release)?


texts: Does the BB axle (spindle) lengths 1:1 compare for square taper and octalink?

texts:
When measuring the axle length of a square taper bottom bracket, can I pick a new octalink bottom bracket with the same axle length?

I can think of some offset added or removed by the difference how the axle is mounted to the crank.

The crank set will be replaced too, of course.


texts: When I pedal they keep shifting forward randomly but not moving the bike forward

texts:
When I try to pedal fast or hard or just put any sort of pressure to move the pedals foward they seem to give out, randomly jerking forward and not making the bike wheel move.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_o4pSicvYyqLWdLTFh3VHp6LTA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_o4pSicvYyqdm93aGJZZW55OVU

Does anyone know what it may be?


texts: What makes a folding bicycle so difficult to ride?

texts:
I got a folding bike from Citizen (like the Miami) with dreams that I could take it on the road with me when I go to conferences but it's REALLY hard to ride very far with it. Is it because of the little 20 inch wheels?  Are the more expensive folding bikes easier to ride?

By, "hard to ride" I mean that after a few miles on relatively level ground I get tired of riding whereas on a regular bike I could ride those same miles and I'm hardly affected. Kids had trouble too... they noticed it took way more effort to ride the small bike.


texts: Fasted training - is it worth it? Is it different when the focus is endurance?

texts:
One thing I notice riding with an endurance-focussed club is that I need more, and more frequent, feeding than many of the more experienced riders. As I start to think about longer days (e.g. 400km) and consecutive days with a few hundred km each, I've started to wonder if fasted training will help. This would seem like a good time of year to start as I'm unlikely to do more than a few 200s before the weather improves, then I'll want to seize the chance to get the longer stuff in.

I'm not trying to lose weight, but to be able to make better/earlier use of my fat reserves.

Recent cycling literature seems to be in favour of fasted training in the context of performance, but says little about endurance. There's general agreement that this is a fairly low intensity training ride but will take some recovery.

The consensus appears to be that a 45-90 minute fasted session once a week is beneficial, and that's something I could build in to an extended commute. But does this hold true when the focus is on endurance rather than weight loss? Or do I need longer fasted rides? There are suggestions of a small calorie intake after about 45-60 minutes, or a little protein intake earlier in the ride. Does this change if the goal is endurance?


texts: Is it possible to wear out the cassette lockring threads?

texts:
I have decided to do a better job of cleaning cassettes when they are dirty. Is it possible to wear out the lockring threads on the freehub with repeated use? This would be monthly on the commuter/gravel bike (biweekly in the winter), and biweekly (after every ride or two, the cassette gets dirty) on the MTB.
What about the lockring itself? Has anyone ever stripped the threads or the splines with repeated use? What about the little serrations on the backside? Removing a stripped, properly torqued lockring does not sound like a fun repair job.


texts: How do I get rid of this clicking sound in the back wheel?

texts:
Difficult to diagnose, I know.

Basically, I bought a single speed Schwinn a few months ago, and after riding it for a couple of weeks it started clicking in the back wheel somewhere.

I've taken it in for a tune-up, mentioned to them there was a clicking sound, but they didn't notice anything (or didn't pay attention), and it still clicks.

It doesn't click, however, if you just pedal it with your hands, but seems to have something to do with putting your weight on it when you're actually riding.

Should I just take it in again? Or is there something cheaper I could look at?


texts: Please help me find the brand of bike on the pictures

texts: Saw him in the movie "Greta", but I can't recognise what brand it is(


texts: What would be the modern equivalent for 2001 Specialized RockHopper?

texts:
My beloved and dependable 2001 Specialized RockHopper A1 were stolen by some lowlife about two weeks ago. After filing a complaint with the local police dept. I filed a claim with my insurance company. They ask for a valuation of a replacement bikes.
Looking at the Specialized website I was kind of amazed to see how the variety of bicycle types and models grew with the years. It is a whole zoo, and it really is hard to tell the differences between models in different but similar categories (but that's probably for another question).
My stolen RockHopper had aluminum frame, 26" wheels, Shimano Deore / Deore-LX derailleur, RockShox Judy front suspension, V-brakes, thin metallic pedals, and that's what I remember in terms of components.
The current entry level RockHoppers offer SR Suntour fork, Altus & Tourney derailleurs and more entry level components.
What model would be considered the equivalent to my old RockHoppers?


texts:
So I bought a used road bike from WI recently. and just a couple days ago i got a flat. I took out the tube wanting to patch but saw that it was all patched up. So i decided to just buy a new on. the original tube was a "specialized 700x20/28c" but i bought a new tube according to the tire that stated "700x25c" and i installed it. It fit a bit big so I just shrugged it off and kept it. Within a couple of miles it popped tearing a big gash in the tube. I do tend to over inflate my tubes due to the roads near me. So my question is what tube should I get, what it states on the tire like "700x25c" etc. or what my original tube had?
All help is much appreciated thank you in advance :-)


texts: What is the purpose of suspension lockout?

texts:
I'm trying to decide which 29er bike I want to purchase and one of them has lockout. I know what lockout does but I'm not sure what it is used for and if I will need it.

Thanks

Update: We're good now. It's been 6 years (Holy crap) since I've posted this. I'm definitely fully aware of lockout. I've also realized my Rockshox Recon Silver lockout is actually 100% lockout since there's a buffer.


texts: Why do left pedals have inverted thread?

texts:
We all know right pedals are screwed regularly in the cranks.
Whereas left ones are screwed in the other direction.

Why is it like this and not the other way around?

Here is how I see things: under normal circumstances, the direction of the thread matters little if at all since the bearing allows pedals to spin freely regardless of how they are attached to the crank.

But when the bearing has troubles, I would think the thread direction is here to protect the pedal from unscrewing from the crank as one is pedaling.

But when you pedal forward, the right pedal is spinning counter-clockwise (since the crank is spinning clockwise) so you would unscrew the pedal from the crank.

Same works for the left: when you pedal, the pedal is spinning clockwise so in the direction to unscrew the inverted thread on the left.

I must be missing something,... but what?


texts: New road bike: alloy dual pivot brakes work poorly

texts:
I recently bought a new road bike (a very entry model - Giordano Acciao) which has alloy dual pivot brakes. The brakes seem to work poorly, even though they are quite tight. If I squeeze the brake and push the bike forward it might still move - when riding this feeling is even worse, the brake just won't fixate the wheel to non-motion. How is that possible on a new bike? Is there something I can do and that I am missing and I should do? Shouldn't the brake stop the wheel completely?

Best regards


texts: How do I prevent STI shifter cables from blocking access to my Randoneering Bag or Handlebar bag?

texts:
I've got drop bars with Shimano Tiagra STI shifters and want to use a Rando Bag on my small front rack or a handlebar mount bag.  Currently the shift cables jut out between the drop bars and hit in to the sides of my bag and can't be bent around it.  I have to run the cables under the top flap of my rando bag to get them out of the way, but this makes it hard to access the contents of the bag on the road.

What can I do to prevent this cable from interfering with my rando bag that doesn't involve switching out my shifters?


texts: Factors Involved With Tire Wobble When Riding Without Hands

texts:
I recently upgraded road bikes from a heavy one (25lbs+, 25mm) with thick tires to a very light one with skinny tires ( 16 lbs, 22mm ).

One thing that changed noticeably was the loss of the ability to ride without hands, which I like doing on LSD [long, slow, distance] riding so I can stretch out my spine every once in a while.

What are the factors involved with whether or not a tire starts to wobble when riding a road bike without hands?


texts: A few weeks ago I tried to take my Trek road bike for my first ride since last fall. It has been sitting in my (uninsulated) garage over throughout the winter and when I tried to inflate my tires the pressure gauge on my pump showed that they wouldn't inflate. Does this sound like a problem with the pump or the innertube?


texts: Places with car roads turned into bike roads

texts:
What can we do to minimize car usage and petroleum and other car energy consumption? I was thinking designating some car lanes as bike-only lanes could work in some places, or even having an hour where only bike traffic is agreed or something like that.

Bikes could have special carts attached to them for transporting whatever messed to be transported during those hours, and some special vehicles would be nevertheless authorized.

How would this work? Where has a similar system been implemented, and what are the details?


texts:
I have an old Peugeot bike that's pretty awesome but the brakes are bad. In good conditions they are weak, and when wet they stop working entirely. I wasn't sure what the issue was with this, and someone had recommended I buy entirely new rims.

Is there any way to make these brakes work in the rain without buying entirely new wheels? I like this bike, but I'm not looking to spend hundreds of dollars to restore it.


texts: What are the reasons for and against wearing a bicycle helmet?

texts:
This is a tricky question to ask correctly. One attempt has already been closed as subjective and argumentative. There is no one correct answer, for sure. However, there are interesting reasons that I believe are worth recording here.

Ideally include supporting documentation/research. I will vote up for quality of answer, not based on whether I agree with the answer.


texts: Clarks Exo hydraulic brakes can't get fluid in

texts:
my son has a Carrera Kraken which is fitted with clarks exo hydraulic brakes.
he mistakenly cracked off the bleed nipple last week causing the front brake to be pretty much non operational.

I ordered a bleed kit, taken off top reservoir, connected syringe and hose to the bleed nipple. cracked it off half a turn.

However I can't push any fluid through. its solid.

I'm stumped. 1st time doing push bike brakes. I understand the principles of the system.  Am I missing something with this type of brake system or would there be a blockage or even trapped air in the system to cause this?


texts: I have a one month old Bowflex C6 spin bike. I am having a problem where the left pedal (SPD one side and toe cage on the other) clicks a lot when I am riding. I have verified that the crank arm is tight and that the pedal is tight/bottomed out in the crank. I have noticed that the there play between the metal part of the pedal and the bolt piece that engages into the crank. It doesn't happen on the right side. Is there a way to remedy this or do I either live with it or get better pedals?


texts: Can I buy an aluminum seatpost with a chromoly frame

texts: I'm starting to plan to build a bike and am looking at parts. I found a frame I like (Poloandbike CMNDR frameset) which is chromoly, but am now trying to find a seatpost to go on it. I believe the seatpost on the frame is 31.6 mm. I found a seatpost I like (Kalloy Laprade SP243) which is made of Al6061T6. My question is, is it alright to have an aluminum seatpost on a chromoly frame? I know some alloys will need grease or different conditions, so I wasn't sure if this would be an alright things to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: What tactics other than 'setting an example' successfully encourage friends/family/others to become cyclists?

texts:
We all know the scenario - you buy the girlfriend a bike, you spend a day servicing a friend's bike, you give an old bike to someone in the family or you spend time in the LBS helping a friend get a bike. Your motivation is out of genuine enthusiasm and in the hope that they will enjoy cycling, maybe to become a life-long cyclist.

As time goes by you realise that they have not really taken to the bike, it remains in the hallway/garage/shed and they still get around the old-fashioned way - walking, catching the bus or killing the planet with their noisy, cramped tin-box.

Although you daren't say it, you might as well have not bothered. They are not going to go cycling any more than a leopard is going to change his spots. No amount of logic or reason will change matters.

But...

...then there are some people you advise on a new bike choice that do get into cycling. Although they probably did not need you to help them get cycling, you still have played some part through 'setting an example'.

In other walks of life it is possible to have success at introducing a newbie to 'something better'. For instance, where you can find someone wanting help with their badly rootkitted computer you can take all day to pull out the viruses or spend half an hour with the Linux install disk. Invariably they don't have a copy of Winmare 7 or find any signs they have joined the Mapple Cult next time you see them - they have accepted a big change despite having to learn-new-stuff (which is hard).

Alcoholics Anonymous have '12 steps' structure and a dose of religion to wean people off drink. Ultimately A.A. face a similar problem to the lost-cause-of-cycling in that people are not going to change unless they want to, however structure works for some A.A. punters, in some cases, some of the time.

Clearly this is an open ended question with many answers. Personal anecdotes are welcomed, did a childhood gift of a bike, a bike-to-work scheme or the advice of a doctor work for you? Is there anything that we can learn from other walks of life?
Statistics and studies could also provide answers. Whatever hints and tips you have to help people take up cycling as a way of life are welcomed. Answers with lateral thinking, tips from other walks of life are also welcomed.

Please mod up the better, more insightful answers.


texts: What is this thing called that holds the gear shift cable (not the wire)?

texts:
There is a small metal part that keeps the gear shift cable in place, so the inside cable can move without the cable hose moving as well. I think I damaged it slightly when making repairs so I need a new one, but I have no idea how that part is called or if it is something specific to my bike. I have a Shimano Nexus 8 internal shifter.

I attached a photo of the part standalone and installed.


texts: Any idea what kind of tool should I but to fix the loose left crank on my bike? I found this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-CCW-5-Crank-Wrench/dp/B0012Q5XAS but not sure if it's gonna suit. Or is it enough to buy only nut driver?


texts: How to mount clipless pedals on a tandem?

texts:
My wife and I have recently purchased a vintage tandem, and are willing to switch to Shimano SPD pedals (M520).

The problem is that there are 3 "chainring" sides on a tandem, 2 of which are located on the left side of the bike. So basically I don't see any way to fit the pedals in the correct position, except for the stoker right side, because the threads will be the wrong way round.

How do I fit normal pedals onto tandem cranks?


texts:
I have a Trek road bike (although you might call it a hybrid since it has straight handlebars. I do about 3,000 miles per year on it for general health reasons (up to 30 miles at a time and averaging 13 mph) and I'm not into racing, cycling clubs etc (I'm coming up to 70). I've just replaced the front chain wheel with an identical version (Shimano Acera FC-M361 48-38-28T) and also the chain. I need to replace the rear chain wheel but before I do I thought I might ask for some advice.

The supplied rear chain wheel is a Shimano HG-51 8aw (i.e. 11-32T). Virtually all of my riding is on levelish ground and UK roads (as bumpy as hell!) with pretty shallow inclines - no off road riding. I find I rarely use the high and low front gears and virtually never use the bottom two rear gears. So what would be your advice on what gearing I should buy for the rear chain wheel replacement, and if you feel so inclined could you comment on the overall front and rear gearing - I feel its probably not optimal since I only seem to use 5 or so of the 24 gears!


texts:
What (if anything) will happen to a bike whilst it sits unused, that wouldn't happen to it whilst being used for a work commute over the same period?

Suppose I take a 3 month sabbatical and leave my bike locked up and secure, in the same place that it would normally be (outside, moderately exposed to the elements). When I come back 3 months later would I have to do/check/refurbish anything that I wouldn't have had to do from just using it daily for 3 months (and still outside the whole time)?

Is the answer different if it's "2 years", or "3 weeks" rather than 3 months?


texts: Effectiveness of disc brakes with brifters

texts: How well do mechanical (non-hydraulic) disc brakes generally function when used with brifters?-- This combination seems to be increasingly common among e.g. adventure bikes such as the Salsa Vaya, Genesis Croix de Fer 10 and Specialized AWOL) as well as cyclocross bikes (e.g. the Fuji Cross 1.1 and Merida Cyclo Cross 300) but I was told during a custom-bike consultation at a LBS that current non-hydraulic disc brake technology is not mature enough to work well with brifters: Apparently it has something to do with the difference in mechanical advantage between road bike- and mountain bike-style brake levers. Is this information true?-- if so, is this combination just a marketing gimmick?


texts: Would a 26 inch rigid fork work on a 27.5 rim and frame? I'm looking to replace my suspension fork for a rigid one since i currently only ride my bike on the road (i got slicks and road gearing already) but i cant seem to find 27.5 rigid forks sold near my area.


texts: Trouble securly attaching panniers to rear rack

texts:
I recently got new panniers (specifically these) because my old ones were falling apart and I have been having trouble attaching them to my rack. I've included some pictures at the end of this post to help with describing my issue. Specifically I am confused about using the bottom plastic hook that's meant to secure the bottom of the pannier to the rack. It is different than what I am used to from my old panniers but seemed like a common design when I was shopping so I didn't think too much of it.
However often I feel like the hook won't stay in place. A few times the hook has even come off the pannier altogether. The panniers didn't come with any instructions beyond the pictured "Adjustment Required Tighten Before Use". I assume that refers to this screw on the hook but I've tried tightening the screw regularly and it doesn't seem to help that much. Is there something I am missing?


texts: Lost power when chain is not lubricated properly

texts: Does anybody know how much power is lost when the chain is not lubricated properly? I drive a rather heavy bike and experienced that when the chain is not lubricated it definitely has an effect. Can anyone give an estimate in percentages about the amount of power lost due to a non-lubricated chain.


texts: Can I carry my tandem on a bumper carrier?

texts: I would sometimes like to transport my tandem by car, and it would be convenient to use one of those "strap-on" bumper carriers.  Is it feasible to use this type of carrier?


texts: Why does this bike have bosses on the bottom of the down tube?

texts:
What can the bosses on the down tube, next to the front wheel, be used for? The only thing I can think of is a mountain bike style mudguard, but I've only seen ones that clip on.

Evans' Cycles website.

Click to zoom in:


texts: First road bike, decade old quality or lower end and new?

texts:
I'm looking at buying a 2009 Trek Bontrager Madone 5.2 for $1200. This bike is basically new as it has under 50km on it. I'm new to the world of biking and have been looking for something within the $1000-$1500 price range. I can get a low end specialized new for this price point but is this deal worth it or is the technology gap too big?

Thanks in advance for your responses!!


texts: How to pick the correct lock ring removal tool

texts:
I have an (admittedly cheap) lock ring removal tool which is bundled with equally cheap red-handled chainwhips commonly sold on eBay:

This tool works great for installing and removing Shimano cassettes.  I really like the fact that it has a 1/2" socket adapter so I can snap it on to my torque wrench.
I now have a bike with disc brakes and want to swap wheels. The aforementioned tool has the correct number of splines for the rotor, fits but only goes down about 1mm into the hole, so I'm unable to remove the rotor lock ring because there's not enough purchase.
I'm looking at either Pedro's 6460010 (lock ring tool with no center pin) or the Shimano TL-LR11. I'd like to avoid the Park FR-5.2 since it requires a 1" socket to fit on to a torque wrench, making it far too easy to fall out. The TL-LR11 says it is specifically for the SM-RT10 and won't fit standard center locks, so I may be barking up the wrong tree. I have SM-RT70S rotors
Which of these tools would best suit my needs or should I look for something else?  I'm also considering switching to external lock rings that require a BB tool, but would like to be able to remove the existing rings myself and/or use this tool help out friends in the future.


texts: Replacing rear coaster brake wheel on 1959 Roadmaster

texts:
I have to replace rusted/'bent rear wheel with coaster brakes on my 1959 Roadmaster.

I have found on Amazon the same size (24 X 2.125) new rear coaster brake wheel.

Will it fit? What parameters I should check for comparison?

What else do I need to know?

Sincerely,

BTS


texts:
If anyone knows what this frame is and could help me identify it, I would be most grateful.

Distinctive (or not) details of the frame:

Seat tube top: is concave, curved in.
Rear brake cable routing: brazed-on noodle on the seat tube.
Seat post binder bolt: is behind the seat tube.
Top mounted cable routing: the shifter cables and the rear brake cable are routed along the top of the top tube.
Head tube: the reinforcement rings.
Rear derailleur cable braze guides: are under the seat stay.
Ritchey rear dropouts: incl. flat (vs round) seat stay and chain stay ends  & eyelets.

Measurements:

Weight (approx.): 1.886 kg
Steerer: 1 1/8 inch
Seatpost (approx.): 26.6 mm
BB (British): 68 mm
Dropout spacing: 135 mm
Top Tube (approx.): 590 mm (c-c); 615 mm (effective); 28.6 mm (diameter out)
Seat Tube (approx.): 435 mm (c-t); 390 mm (c-c); 28.6 mm (diameter out)
Head Tube (approx.): 110 mm; 36.5 mm (diameter out)
Down Tube (approx.): 32 mm (diameter out)
Chainstay (approx.): 420 mm
Reach (approx.): 460 mm

Serial Number: B99XXXX (B plus 6 digits)

Other (Ir)Relevancies:

Came equipped with a threaded 1 1/8 inch triple butted (TB) rigid
Kona Project 2 (P2) fork.
Originally from Germany.
Preliminary discussion: http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=377616

Close matches so far:

Many Scott mid-90s models.
Biria MX 700, but round seat stay and chain stay ends and 27.2 mm seatpost.

All input appreciated, any ideas or suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks


texts:
The Gates belt is running slightly off-center on the rear sprocket. Does anybody know how to adjust the rear sprocket/wheel such that the belt runs centered?

Thanks


texts:
I'm very new to road biking and struggling to set up my cycle computer on my Triban 500 SE.. Manufacturing Info about bike here :

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-se-road-bike-black-id_8306187.html#anchor_ComponentProductTechnicalInformation

To confirm they are 650 tyres which are 23mm wide.

My question is about wheel circumference which I need to be converted into mm. Does anybody know or understand how to work this out?...

Note : I am almost positive this is a very noob question.. However, saying that there is little information about this on the web so an answer that explains how they got to it would be appreciated and would definitely help future newbies!


texts:
I have a Schauff Pittsburgh 2002 26"  tandem which has the standard tandem drive train setup (timing chain on the left) and Shimano Deore components with 3x8 gearing.

The tandem has become my partner's and my single mode of escape during the pandemic. Because of our different heights and the sizes of the seats, he can only ride as stoker and I only as captain on this tandem. Unfortunately due to an injury, he currently needs to take it easy and can't pedal. I might be able to pedal us both around for some short trips out of town. I am aware that having two freewheeling mechanisms on a tandem is super complicated and expensive.
So, is there an easy/cheap and reversible/temporary way to either:

Somehow disconnect the stoker cranks from the drive train, such that they either spin freely or are fixed, such that the stoker can use them as footrests
Provide a different and comfortable way of adding footrests for the stoker, possibly with the pedals removed.

As mentioned, simply removing the timing chain and switching seats isn't possible for us.


texts: How do I locate and loosen the rear derailleur hanger bolt?

texts:
Context:

I need to remove my rear derailleur so that I can attach an alignment tool and straighten things out.

Images of the rear derailleur while the bike is upside-down:

http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626152/size-8/
http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626153/size-8/

Question:

Where is the derailleur's hanger's bolt that attaches the derailleur to the frame?

Solution:

Find a hex wrench with a long handle (at least as long as the 3-way hex wrench from Park Tools)
Turn counter-clockwise in the area circled in red by Jerry.


texts: Sunrace 10 Speed 11-46T cassette rear derailleur compatibility

texts:
I would like to know:

What rear derailleur (RD) was the "Sunrace 10 Speed 11-46T" designed to work with.

Is there a compatibility chart ?


texts: Yesterday, I was having this problem.  Taking the advice, I messed with the barrel adjusters.  Now, every gear is working great except the highest gear and lowest gear.  I put my bike in the highest gear and I can still click the shifter once more, but nothing happens.  When it comes time to shift down gears, I have to click the shifter once before shifting has any effect.  In the lowest gear, the chain jumps.  I have to hold down the shifter to stay in gear there.


texts:
I have used my googlefu now but I don't come up with any good research articles.

I read that a lot of elite riders train mostly on low intensity, is this the case and why?
To increase fet oxidtion, and endurance muscle fibers and decrease the risk of injury?

This article says that it is not good (in isolation) in higher levels:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_slow_distance

I also read something about 85/15 rule of race pace (85% of youre training should be lower then race speed and 15 % of the time at faster speed).


texts: Chain falling off inner chain ring no matter how L screw is set

texts:
Bike is a relatively new Cannondale Carbon Synapse with the Ultegra 6800 groupset (although front chainrings are FSA).  Has about 1000KMs on it.

Bike has been great, but I went out on a ride today and about 40K in or so it started losing the chain off the inner front ring.  Prior to this it was tuned perfectly and then suddenly I couldn't pedal more than 10 rotations without the chain coming off (not shifting at all).

I took out my tools and adjusted the L screw to tighten up the gap and it still happened.  Then I thought I'd just keep out of the lowest rear gear so I could just get home (I was stuck going up a big hill).  Still no luck.  Must have tried 12 times and lost the chain every time within 10 feet of starting up again - making adjustments every time.  By the end of it both the front and rear derailleur were adjusted to be pulling the chain away from the inside brutally - just trying to get home. Eventually I had to give up and call for a pickup.

The only other thing I noticed was that immediately before this happened the rear cogs were getting funny - it kept wanting to shift down (before the hill - was in a higher gear so in the big ring at the font - didn't lose the chain, but was going all squirrelly in the rear).

I can't see what is doing it.  Chain rings don't have any bent teeth. Seems to only really happen under load. I can tighten up the L screw to the point where it is rubbing the chain and it still will manage to come off if I put any load on the drivetrain. I don't even see how that is possible but it is what happens.

I have no idea what is going on - any advice?


texts:
I'm curious is it possible to make a tyre that will fit perfectly on snowy/icy road. So I found studded tyres.
Now, my question is - Is it possible to make studded tyre that will have good grip on snowy/icy road/sidewalk and use same tyre for dry road/sidewalk?
Reason I want tyre with those specs is because I ride a bike in winter from house to work. Because it's too cold outside, I can't hold with traffic so I ride on sidewalk. Some sidewalks are clear, but on certain parts are ice or "compressed" snow. Without studded tyre it's not possible to brake or change direction.
Where I should put screws in tyre? In middle or at sides of tyre?


texts: Can i use a 10 speed hubbed wheel on my 7 speed/cassette bike?

texts:
I ride a 2005 Claud Butler San Remo with a Sora 7 cassette on the back. My back wheel has broke and is not repairable and I have bought an Ambrosio WS23 Wheel (700mm) with Bianchi hubs which I believe had a 10 speed cassette on.

I have been told it needs to be a Campagnolo cassette but can't seem to find any 7 speed cassettes from Campagnolo? Could I put an eight on it? Would i need a spacer? I want to know what my best/cheepest/easiest option is or should I just forget about it and try and get a Shimano hubbed wheel?


texts: I haven't used my bike for almost a year and I need to start riding it again, but it appears I have a flat tire. I don't think there's something wrong with the tube cause I haven't used it for a pretty long time. It just won't inflate. The tire has a  Schrader Valve. I use a pretty old pump so maybe that's the case? I'm not really sure.. So is there any way I could inflate it again without getting a new tube or tire?


texts: Will any Avid brake bleed kit work with my Promax brakes?

texts:
I need to replenish the fluid in my front brake on my Whyte Portobello (Promax Hornet disk brake) after all of the fluid leaked out through my own mistake.

I'm looking at kits like this on eBay, will it will be fully compatible with my Promax calipers etc?


texts:
This is the kickstand of my folding bike, and since the day I bought it, the kickstand just don't stay in place. It move around the bolt a tiny little bit, and from time to time it touches the crank arm when closed making noise while pedaling, and don't sustain the bike as good as is suppose to do when opened. I temporary fix it by kicking it with the foot to push closer to the wheel. I tried to put a piece of rubber in between (you can spot it in the picture) to increase the friction between the plates, but it still moves around, no matter how tight is the bolt. There is something I can do about it?
Thank you!


texts: How can I maximize the lifetime of my cleats

texts:
I'm using look kéo cleats. My right one is much more worn down than the left one. Almost to the point where I don't think it will have any edge showing on the front lip.

I do walk in them a bit, but usually in grass or on smooth tile. In both conditions I would think it's the heel hitting the floor more, so the front wearing quicker is a surprise to me.

What are some causes of early wearing on cleats and how can I prevent them?


texts: Raleigh Nitro MTB - 5-7 speed freewheel conversion - 135mm spacing

texts:
I have a Raleigh Nitro Mountain Bike that I want to convert from a 5 to a 7 speed freewheel. The rear drop-out spacing is 135mm.

Am I right in thinking that all I need to do is get a rear wheel that is 135mm with a 7 speed freewheel? (And obviously upgrade the shifter and rear derailleur.)  Am I missing anything obvious?

Many thanks in advance.


texts: Is a 22 inch road bike appropriate for a 5'9" person?

texts:
I am admittedly a beginner and looking to purchase a used single speed bike just to casually use around the neighborhood. I came across this listing:

https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/murfreesboro-scattante-ssr-roadbike/6878047099.html

I am 5'9" (1.75 m) with a 30" (0.76 m) inseam. The seller claims he is also 5'9" and the 22 inch (56 cm) bike should work for me, but after some research I've been getting mixed answers. I spoke with a bike shop employee and he said this frame would be much too large for me, but there's a chance the seller didn't measure it properly. I was wondering if this size would work for me.


texts:
This frame used to be black with a campagnolo sticker though under it I found a green layer of paint. When I went to set it up they told me it's probably an old UK or Belgium bike. For what i can see the frame number looks like 81    6836.
Photos here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=10JKLCWnSE7nxlYehOYcJJPFo_1fQvr6S


texts: DIY solution for carrying kids on a long-john: ideas?

texts:
I ordered a long-john (namely, a Bullitt Clockwork) and - the official folding seat/composite honeycomb bottom being way too expensive for my budget, I am now in the process of building a passenger seat for my son (1,5 years old).

I wish my seat to:

Be safe
Be cheap to build
Have the possibility to tilt backwards (or anyway having it designed in such a way that when my son falls asleep during longish rides his head won't bounce all over the place).

My first impulse was to build something akin to the box the bakfiets comes with:

But while being cheap to build and relatively safe (the kid is enclosed in a solid structure) there is no support for the neck/head, nor the seat can be reclined.

My second idea was to still build the box but enclose/fix on the bottom of it a forward-facing child seat designed for cars.  Not owing a car, I'm not sure of how that works, but I know as a fact that my friends children routinely sleep in them.

However this solution is relatively expensive/heavy, and in addition I either fix permanently the seat to the box (and then I need to always shelter the bike from rain/snow) or I make it releasable (and then I'll have to carry it around if I don't want to get it stolen / be soaked by rain).

Finally, the last idea I had was to mould a box-cum-integrated-seat in FRP (fibre reinforced plastic, think "fiberglass").  I have some experience with previous projects and the end result is light and durable, but getting it done is a labour-intensive process.

So, my question is: does anybody have an alternate idea on how I could build the seat for my son? Or an off-the-shelf solution that won't cost me an arm and a leg?


texts: What is a reasonable maintenance routine for a commuter bike?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How much maintenance?

I've purchased a nice hybrid (a Trek Fx) and plan on using it as my daily commuter, maybe averaging 50 miles per week on it.

What regular and preventative maintenance do I need to perform on the bike to keep it riding well?  Please provide a basic description as well as a rough schedule (e.g. "clean the chain monthly").


texts: I've been cycling for most of my life but I'm not an endurance rider - the furthest I've ever cycled in one go is 20 miles. I do a modest amount of riding daily - a couple of miles. Soon I'll be leaving my home for a work placement (I'm a student) and the trains are extremely expensive to come home on every week, so I'm considering cycling instead. The terrain is almost entirely road with occasional dirt tracks, and my bike is a MTB Cycletech mountain bike. The first question I have: is this 50 mile ride feasible for someone of my experience? Secondly: if so, what sort of preparation should I be doing? I'm thinking of bringing several bottles of water, but I'm unsure as to what foods would be sensible to bring, and how much of them I should be consuming. Any other tips on top of this would be extremely useful.


texts: Should the tightness of the QR skewer (rear wheel) affect the freewheel

texts:
The tighter I fit my rear QR, the less freely my rear wheel spins. It’s very noticeable.
Problem is that when I have the QR quite loose I tend to get a creaky noise from the rear axle under load but when I tighten it, the creak goes away but the rear wheel doesn’t freewheel as loosely.
Is this normal?
Thanks...it’s a 2016 Giant Defy (carbon frame, disc brake - and no, the brakes aren’t rubbing).
Thanks people - pretty much I suspected; that the hubs might need a bit of a service. I have taken them apart myself and given them a good clean up (this is after I had noticed the problem which is no worse since I reassembled the hubs - it's a Giant SLR Wheel System which I think has a DTSwiss 360/370-type 3-pawl hub with cartridge bearings, so maybe something in there has got worn out. Looks clean and nice though. I'm about 17,000 kms on these hubs without a proper service - although I did pay for a full bike service last year, I suspect they had a look, spun the wheel and thought it was OK so did nothing.
I can fairly easily unscrew the hub end caps though but I also read that's how they should be put together - not too tightly screwed in.
I guess I could try taking it all apart again - but probably better getting someone who knows what they're doing to have a proper look.
Thanks again.


texts:
I'm looking to buy a pair of Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLE or Mavic Ksyrium SLR.
The Cosmic's are 50mm height, Ksyrium 25mm.

I'll only be using the wheel for racing.

How do they perform in cross wind. I'm thinking about performance (watts used) and also handling, can I control the bike in a group.

My simple logic tells me that the smaller rim, would of course be best choice in side wind. But then again, I suspect that the aero wheels perhaps might not just have been made for still winds?


texts:
I've got an old bike from my friends, which basically looks good (just needs some oiling), but its handles are really beaten up and greesy. I couldn't find any screws or anything which keeps these handles in place - please see photo.

Is it possible to replace handles without replacing the whole gear switching mechanism?


texts: Conical head tube: does it really make huge difference?

texts:
I am looking forward to getting a new mountain bike and in various reviews sites they are really focused on if a bike have conical head tube or not. In many cases it is the first thing listed as pro (or cont in case the bike don´t have it).

It suppose to make the handling easier. But I don´t really see how that works. It is just another commercial trick or does is really affect the handling a lot ?


texts: What model of bike does Alicia Vikander use in Tomb Raider (2018)?

texts:
Does anyone recognise this model of bike? It has some stickers/decals with fictional logos, but I couldn't find any brands/marks on the bike itself (more images):

Note: The fox tail and paint can are from a 'fox hunt' game/race in the film. See here.


texts:
I have a 2015 Cannondale Bad Boy 3. I'm planning on making a trip tomorrow that goes across a very long, fairly steep road (It's almost completely straight).

I've had the bike for about six months, and I absolutely love it. I trust the construction and control of the bike, but everything has it's limits.

Hopefully someone would be able to tell me what a "safe" top speed is for the bike. I've personally hit just under 40Km/h on this bike on a different downhill, much shorter than the one I'll be riding tomorrow. I just don't want the tire to fly off while I'm cruising down this hill.

I'm going to have the bike serviced tonight. The tires are the standard Schwalbe Kojack. They're still in good condition, and everything else is stock from the factory.

Thanks in advance for any help!


texts: Shimano shoes: what is the correct equivalence of US and EU sizes? Or, which to trust more?

texts:
Shimano seems to have some contradictory sizing information for their cycling shoes. Their EU/US sizing corresponds differently from shoe to shoe, and also with some industry "norms" (if that's really a thing).
Here are some examples from actual shoes:

vs.

So which is it Shimano, does EU47 = US12.5 or does it equal US11.8? That's a significant variation. (Plus I've never heard of an US size which is not a multiple of ½?)
Wikipedia agrees with the first one, FWIW.

It took a little hunting to find a Shimano size chart. On "Which Shimano Kicks Are Right For You?" it says "...Shimano offers a useful size guide..." but actually doesn't seem to include that. But I did find one on their product pages:

(From here, then click "adaptive size spec" - seems to be generic, not only pertinent to the specific product at this link?)
This chart seems to be consistent with the second tag.
All in all, I'm confused. What to make of all this? Am I more likely to get a good fit assuming the US or EU size is accurate?

Note - obviously the ideal would be to visit a good store and try stuff on; if it fit the number doesn't matter. But given Covid and maybe limited local availability it would be great to be able to order online with some confidence that a good fit is possible vs. being a waste of time & money.


texts: Which 9 speed Shimano Cassette should I get?

texts:
I have a 40 minute (each way) daily commute that is particularly hilly.  I would like to upgrade the groupset of my faithful steel road bike to make my commute more enjoyable.  Money is precious at the moment so I have sourced sourced a Shimano Ultegra 6500 groupset, minus the cranks and cassette.  My questions are as follows:

Will a set of 8 speed Shimano 105 cranks (which I already own) work with the Ultegra 6500 group?
What new cassette should I buy to help me with the particularly hilly terrain I will encounter.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Nathan


texts: How much slower should I expect to be in winter rides?

texts:
I typically do ~100km rides (almost always alone). In summer, I manage average speeds of 30km/h or more. This is the first (of only three in total anyhow) winter in which I keep riding somewhat regularly in winter.
I did > 1000 km per month in the summer months, and around 700km (some of which indoors) in the winter months (but extra running etc.). So I would expect my form and fitness to be somewhat lower, but not dramatically so. For instance, average watts on the indoor trainer as well as times when going running are fairly constant. (My PM also shows fairly constant wattage on the bike.)
Yet, average speeds are more like 27-28 km/h at the moment.
(In my case, although I hope the question could be of more general interest, I also ride a new bike which I had hoped would be faster although it is an endurance bike, simply because it is more high level in terms of the frame than my previous fairly entry level alu one.)
My question: Is that an expected decrease in speed? If so, is it possible to break down this difference into different components (next to, possibly, less fitness)? I think of

typically more windy conditions, which hurts average speed
more layers of and less aerodynamic clothes
wider tyres (28mm insted of 25mm for me, also lower quality ones; also, the endurance bike maybe has somewhat less agressive geometry)
more rolling resistance on wetter surfaces
more careful riding style on wet surfaces (surely hard to quantify, but definitely applies to me)
I heard something about colder air implying more resistance
more energy needed to keep the body warm (although I rather overdress, I think)
psychology?
anything else?


texts: I can't extract sealed bearings out of the wheel

texts:
I face the problem again of extracting the bearings, this time out of the wheel of my Giant XTC Advanced 29” 1.5 2017, Giant wheel system, hub OEM manufactured by Formula.

Once removed caps and cones the axle can be released freely (no hit, no pressure, all loose) and bearings appear uncovered at both sides but I can't use the axle to extract the bearings. Then I hit hard with the punch from inside out but they do not move a milimeter. I have a déjà vu and stop hitting.

Again: What am I missing?

UPDATE: Last picture. It seems to me, but not sure, that the box of the axle is here wider than the bearing and maybe there is a ring preventing the bearing to be extracted that side. Maybe a circlip again? Or anyway should both bearings be extracted by the disc side? Sounds weird, I'm just pondering.


texts:
I was wondering if anyone could help me find out what size rear wheel I need to buy as a replacement (wheel is EXTREMELY out of true) as I cant seem to find it.

Bike: REACTION HYBRID HPA PRO 400
Tyres currently on bike: 28 x 1.65 - 700 x 42c

Thanks in advance,
Dan


texts: How are the categories for climbs decided?

texts: In cycle racing, there are five grades or categories for climbs - Category 4, 3, 2, 1 & Hors (Above Category or HC).  How do they decide what is category 1 and what makes it so hard it is a HC?


texts: How to tell which freehub body is a compatible replacement for the one on an old Shimano FH-HG50 rear hub?

texts:
I'm working on trying to fix an old Shimano FH-HG50 7-speed rear hub, which skips often and sometimes spins forward without turning the wheel.
My questions are:

What to look for when buying a compatible replacement freehub? How to tell if a new freehub body is a compatible replacement for the old one (part number 30H 9801)? Would something like a Shimano FH-M590 work (assuming, of course, I also use a spacer for the 7-speed casstte)?
Would the wider hub interfere with the rest of the wheel or the frame? Distance between chainstays is 135mm.
How thick does the spacer need to be to make this work? I've seen RJ's video on this operation, and he uses a 4.5mm spacer. Is that universal?


texts: How do I reduce the risk of pinch flat punctures while riding up stairs on my hardtail?

texts:
I've got a Specialized Pitch, size 27.5". I do a lot of urban MTBing and tricking.

I know how to ride up stairs - up to four stairs at the moment, working on getting more - you lean back, get the front wheel up the first three or so, then lean forwards and pedal, keeping the weight off the back wheel. I work up a bit of speed and then pedal up, with gears set at 1 in the front and 3 in the back (I've got 3 in front and 8 in the back). The back wheel is at ~40 PSI.

But consistently, I'll make it up this staircase ~5 times in a row, and then, at some point, inevitably, I'll get a pinch-flat puncture.

This has been the main expense on the bike recently - this one staircase has cost me hundreds in replacing the inner tube.

Is there anything I can do to avoid getting these punctures? Am I simply not doing it correctly?


texts:
I am considering buying a new helmet online, which means it'll be delivered to my door by courier.  In my experience, couriers can be careless with parcels.  Should I be concerned about this, or are helmets packaged so that they're safe even if knocked about a bit?

In case it matters, the brand of helmet I shall be buying is Specialized.


texts: How to cover a bicycle left outside for extended periods

texts:
I'm about to start a new job, within cycling distance of home. Trouble is that the office is small and has nowhere to store my bike. So I'm going to have to chain it up outside each day.

I went to my local bike shop today to get a cover and was surprised to find they didn't sell them. The staff said most are no good: they are too thin and light to offer proper protection.

Is this right? If so, is there anything else I can do to protect the bike from the elements (I live in the UK so this is mostly rain rather than extreme cold)?


texts: Do any bike sharing schemes provide a way to rent or share helmets along with the bikes?

texts:
Do any bike sharing schemes provide a way to rent or share helmets along with the bikes, either in a kiosk or through an arrangement with local businesses?

None of the schemes that I've used (London, Vienna, Boston) or am aware of provide them, and in most that I'm aware of it is rare to see helmets in use at all, despite the fact that most recommend them and in several cities riding without them is illegal.

Have any of the cities that have cycle hire schemes come up with a convenient way to provide helmets along with the bikes in a way that's consistent with the "use and forget" philosophy of the schemes?


texts: How can I stop my mudguards from rattling?

texts: Is there a simple way to stop the mudguards on my bike rattling? They're securely connected, but when I go over bumps in the road they tend to wobble about and rattle against my front wheel.


texts: Does weight and climbing cause strain on bike?

texts:
I‘m a heavy (260 pound) male rider using my 2011 NORCO 24 gear hybrid to commute to and from work. It’s a 6 mile trip each way with a +450 foot climb in the last 2-3 miles coming home. The ride is all on hard surfaces with an occasional curb. I have ridden this commute about 80-100 times.

I have been having issues with the rear-shifter and chain. Also with spokes on the rear rim. Started with the rear-shifter breaking off but despite three visits to the dealer’s shop and one to a different place, new cables, replaced spokes and so on I still have problems. After a couple of rides the spokes rattle and the gears go out of sync. The issues with the gears seem to happen when going up the hills (when I assume the most pressure is on the bike).

Two questions:
If I assume the two repair shops are competent then what might be causing the gears from going out of sync 3-4 trips after I get them adjusted? What’s causing the spokes to loosen up? I suspect the strain on the bike climbing (taking in mind my weight).
What type of bike would be appropriate considering the combination of climb and level riding plus the weight?

To answer some questions and some further info:

What do you mean by "the gears go out of sync"??:
The gears don’t correspond to the setting I have. I gear but see the chain hasn’t moved. I might have to switch back and forth before I get the desired setting. Chain falls off the gears. There is also a lot of creaking and groaning (and not from me!).

Do you change the gears while climbing / fast pedaling?
Not so much while fast pedaling but definitely while climbing. It’s not a steady climb so I try to gain as much speed as possible and then drop the gears fast while climbing.

have you replaced the chain and rear cluster yet?
No. I probably need to change the chain. There is a chink in the chain after the last fail.

I’m ready and willing to replace parts if required. However if the cost start mounting I wonder if I’m better off getting a more robust bike.

Thanks for all the great suggestions and ideas!
Since it’s a rather spread and open question I can’t really pick any one as best but I wanted to post one final question and my action plan:
I will go back to the dealer and replace the chain and rear rim with higher performance items, plus have the bike overhauled. Think his mech is competent but will insist on talking to him directly. So yes – I intend to extend the life of my NORCO.

For my type of riding – paved roads, occasional curb, hill climbing… is the hybrid the ideal bike-form?


texts: Combination of different Shimano braking components

texts:
For a daily city bike i want to combine some older Shimano Components.

Is it possible to combine a Shimano XT V-Brake Lever (BL-M739) with a Shimano 105 SLR Front brake or are there any things i have to pay attention to?


texts: When riding with a single pannier, does it matter which side it's on?

texts:
I read somewhere that when riding with a single pannier, the pannier should be mounted on the left side (traffic side in the US). However, the article didn't give a reason behind that. It's been quite some time and I can't find the article again for reference.

I initially thought that it was so that the reflectors on the panniers wouldn't mislead motorists as to where on the road I, the cyclist, was positioned. However, after noticing this evening that a pannier mounted on the traffic side of the bike blocked the visibility of my girlfriend's seat post mounted light, I began to question this.

Is there any reason to ride with the pannier on one side or the other? Does it matter it all?


texts: I find that I'm always in my highest gear. What options to I have to re-distribute the ratios to a more useful range

texts:
I have three gears in the front and 8 in the back, but I always use the highest gear (I live in a flat place) I might drop down one or two gears occationally but this is only a small fraction of the time.

I want to buy new gears and re-center this distribution around something I find useful, I probably only need the top three ratios from my current setup, and I would like to have maybe 5 more ratios above that. Is this type of modification ever performed?

Sorry I don't know any of the relevant cycling vocabulary.
Also, what are power ratios measured in and how do I determine the ratio of my current highest gear?

Where should I buy these parts?
Can I make this modification for under $100?


texts:
I needed wet lube for my chain, so I went to my local cycle store and bought the following pictured Shimano wet lube.

Back home, out of curiosity, I "googled" it, and surprisingly enough, I didn't found any picture of it on the Web. Now I'm really wondering, do you guys have any idea of the origin of this product?

The label is in Dutch, French and Danish. The company is noted as "Shimano Workshop > Shimano Europe", headquartered in the Netherlands. The only reference number is WS000002-A.


texts: How do I prevent a tube valve from fusing to my rim

texts:
I have a 20" Sun Rims CR-18 rear rim. This rim has a cylindrical metal sleeve that goes through the valve hole. Not sure where that came from, as I inherited the rim with the bike when I bought it used.

When I was changing the tires after riding this bike through the New England winter, I noticed that the valve on my tube was stuck to this sleeve in the rim. I used locking pliers to attempt to wiggle the valve free, but instead, it sheared off the end of the valve and left the rest of the valve fused inside the rim.

I had to drill the remainder of the valve out. When it eventually dislodged, it released some gray powder.

What caused these two parts to fuse together like this, and how can I prevent it in the future?


texts: What type of paint to use for a bike frame

texts:
What's the best type of paint to use for painting bike frames, it's steel if that makes a difference?

I want to do a custom paint job and mix a few colours in a gradient effect. Should I use enamel paid, or an off the shelf car paint etc?

Also what paint should I use for an undercoat, a car primer paint ??

many thanks


texts: How to distinguish a 26 inch fork from 28 inch fork

texts:
I have a 26 inch MTB frame and I want to replace the fork.

How can I distinguish a 26 inch fork from a 28 inch one? Which are the measurement to know?

thanks!


texts:
I currently have a Shimano 5700 10 speed double 53-39 t crankset with BCD of 130 mm (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5700-double-10sp-chainset/rp-prod50439?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-NqyBRC905irsrLr-LUBEiQAWJFYTkxMA9a_E1fL6-t7-aTW19bkJuJg-JSW1YW7l4VlWooaAuNz8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds).

Can I change to a Shimano 110 mm BCD cranks of 53-39 t (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5800-11-speed-double-chainset/rp-prod116491)? That's 11 speed but I don't think that will matter. The reason to change is I want to try a 165 mm length crank instead of 170 mm on current.


texts: How can I undo the locknut on this Shimano 105 hub

texts:
I'm having trouble working out how to properly service this Shimano 105 rear hub. I've watched some videos, read Leonard Zinn's book and following Park Tools' instructions, but it doesn't help.

I've got a 15mm cone spanner around the cone (I think that's the part in the picture), but there are no flats of any size on the locknut.

I got some vise-grip pliers and managed to get it undone, but there must be an easier way!


texts:
Just switched from flat to drop bars which are narrower that the original flats.

Also, to compensate the "depth" of the riding position, I took a shorter stem (60mm instead of 105mm).

Because of these changes:

The riding hands position is different (which was the purpose, but I am not used to it yet): the hands are "vertical" when riding on the "safe" positions (on hoods and on drops) and are when in the "unsafe" position (around stem), they are very close to the stem which is unusual for me as well
The bars are narrower, so in any position, the hands are close to the center of the bars which feel very different
The shorter stem also affect the feel of the direction

As a result, in my tests, I did not have any problem per se, but my starts have showed to be a little "wobbly" (not riding completely straight on the 1 meter or 2) and on a general level I don't feel as safe as I used to.

I am sure a big part of that needs just getting used to, but still, any tips?


texts:
I bought a Cyclecross Bike last year because I wanted to race. I did not get the bike in time to participate in any races last year though. The training course is closed near me for now so I can't train for the time being. I have looked on youtube and watched races and on how to stop in a race and the bunnyhop.
 How do I be ready for the races(that start in September) both physically and mentally?
 What should I eat before a race?
 Is there any equipment you would suggest?
 Are there any strategies I don't know about?


texts:
My trusty old CF racer was stolen the other day, and I'm looking for a replacement. I saw this bike at PlanetX and was intrigued. It's a full carbon bike with (last years) Ultegra components for a very reasonable price ( < $2k). It comes with a compact crankset and a short-cage dérailleur. The largest cassette it can accommodate is 11-28, which would give me a lowest gear of 34-28.

Not bad, and the same as I had before. But I live in the Alps and I frequently find myself in the lowest gear well before I hit the steepest parts of the hills, so I would like to have a lower gear, if at all possible.

I spoke to the vendor, and they said that it would (at least in theory) be possible to put on a medium-cage dérailleur and an 11-30 cassette. But I was wondering if it would be possible to have a smaller chainring in front instead. Can you get smaller than 34? Or would that not fit?

At some level I'm contemplating putting on a triple instead, but that seems like going back to the 20th century...


texts: Replace v-brakes with rim caliper brakes with no center hole: adapter?

texts:
I'd like to mount caliper rim-brakes on a rear fork where no center hole exists for that purpose. I'm trying to find the part underlined and shown in white on picture attached.

As you can see these rear Shimano calipers are fixed to this U- or horseshoe-shaped part that itself was tightened using the holes where normally 2 v-brakes are fixed.
I'm only trying to find this part online, but have no idea what it is called (whether in French or English or whatever...). Can someone please point me to the right direction ??
Thanks.


texts: Can my cantilever brake pads not being centered lead to a problem?

texts:
I just watched a Park tool video on cantilever brake adjustment.
The mechanic pointed to a small screw and said it was to center the brake pads but did not say why. Obviously two forces that oppose each other should be applied evenly. My question is,can uneven application of the brake pads lead to a problem other than inefficient braking.


texts: Is there a sign that a fork needs hydraulic/lubricating oil changed?

texts:
What are the signs that a fork needs an oil change?

I'm asking this because lately my RS Revelation (1yo) seems stiff. I checked the sag and found I should increase it... so I did, but it's still using almost the same amount of travel (I check the o-ring at the end of a ride). Moreover, on rough terrain (gravel), I feel an incredible amount of vibrations that hurt my fingers.

Are these the signs? (in other words: will an oil change solve these problems?)


texts: should i replace the tires/tubes to sell vintage bicycle?

texts:
new to this site.  I have a vintage GT Pro Performer from my youth, all original and am considering selling it.  The tires are original but would fall apart if someone tried to ride it.  Is it worth replacing the tires/tubes with new ones to get more money when i go to sell it.  Trying to figure out if I should just leave it alone and let the next owner worry about it or if it would add value to the sell greater than the price of the tires?
thanks...


texts: Where to get replacement bike frame cable entry grommets?

texts:
Does anybody know where to get more of these ?

These hold shift and/or brake cable ferrules where the cables enter the frame.  Here is what they look on a bike if that helps:

These specifically are for a Dengfu frame, but it seems all the Chinese open-mold design frames use this same part, and some big-name manufactures as well.  Note that this type has a molded spring-type arm so they clip in the frame without need for fasteners or tools.

Before somebody says "contact Dengfu", they are located on the other side of the world and they are looking to ship frames, I'd prefer to find a closer / more convent source, and this seems to be a relatively standard part so I would figure somebody out there will sell these in relatively small consumer quantities.

The closest I've found so far is:

https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=Chainstay+Cable+Stop&vendorCode=CERVELO&major=11&minor=11

I suppose I could try these, but the shape is somewhat different (you have to look at the images closely to see, the shape is similar but definitely not exactly the same), and at $8 each for a part that probably does not cost $0.05 to make this seems excessive.

Does anybody know of a source that is an exact match and/or available for a more reasonable price?


texts: Durability of Seat and Chain Stays on steel frame touring bike

texts:
I've been toying with the idea of mounting a dynamo on my REI touring bike. Model is ADV1.1 and it has a steel frame.

Dynamo attaches by a mechanism that clamps onto a seat stay and tightens with two bolts, but I also recently got spooked by stories here and here that similar mechanisms for kickstands run the risk of crushing the chain stays.

I don't have much experience with mechanically modifying bike frames, so how generally concerned should you be about fixing things to or modifying a bike frame for fear that it is damaged or weakened significantly?

And how much should this concern vary between different brands or types of bike, i.e. touring, mountain bike, etc?

Should the concern for kickstands and the chain stays carry over to the dynamo scenario?


texts: What are some Routes to riding from Los Angeles to San fransisco?

texts: I'm a fixed Gear cyclist and I'm trying to set up a big ride with a group of friends from Los Angeles to San Fransisco. I am aware this is not an easy ride but we are willing to go, but I'm not sure Google Maps is giving a very good route for cyclists. Is there any place where I can find a route suitable for cyclists to get to San Fransisco.


texts: Why doesn't "butt soreness" affect serious cyclists?

texts:
Over time, my seat (butt) has been broken in by my saddle. I don't have a callus, and nothing obvious has changed. Physiologically, why doesn't riding cause seat soreness anymore?

On the flip-side, what does a saddle do to a less-experienced posterior? Is soreness caused by something as simple as bruising, or is there some other effect going on?

EDIT:

To clarify, I am referring to muscle soreness caused by the saddle rather than soreness of the skin (e.g., saddle sores). The question is about why the soreness doesn't affect experienced cyclists who have adapted (over the course of many months or years).


texts: I don't know much about bicycles but I came across one that I want to offer to my nephew since he is into vintage race bikes. I would like to know the original brand of the bicycle/frame since I want to replicate it with the right decals. I was told the frame tubes are Reynolds 531 and from the equipment (Mafac, Simplex, Belleri) I assume the bicycle is probably French from the 70s after several searches enter image description here. Thank you in advance for your help.


texts: I have an inseam of around 26 1/2 inches (without shoes). Would a 47cm frame fit me? If not what would the correct frame size be? I'm looking for a hybrid (or road) bike.


texts: Can you record multiple rides on a Garmin 500 and download more than one on Strava?

texts:
Can you record multiple rides on a Garmin 500 and then download them sequentially onto Strava?

Valerie Jones


texts: Recommendation for lightweight pedals for use with SPD or without

texts: Are there any nice looking and lightweight pedals meant to be used with or without SPD shoes? Would be nice to be able to ride even without my special shoes, but not if such pedals look bulky and heavy.


texts: How do I prevent neck and back pain, and recover physically/mentally on a multi-day ride?

texts: I'm nervous about the ride and looking for some motivation, support and answers to a couple of questions.  I'm a 53 year old female and I've done 75, 80 and 100 miles before but never a two day ride for a total of 180 miles.  I've put quite a few hours in on my bike but I'm getting nervous now.  I know I can do the first day but I'm concerned about the second day and how I will feel.  I tend to feel a lot of burning across my shoulders and neck after about 50 or 60 miles.  Question 1: What can I do to prevent this?  Also, what should I eat the night before the ride and is there anything I can do to prepare myself mentally and physically after the first day?  Can I do this?  I won't back out now............I told my family I was crossing the finish line even if someone has to drag me across.  Please help!  I'm not even sure I can sleep tonight!


texts:
I bent the (steel) derailleur hanger on my 9spd cassetted (steel) Bianchi Volpe about 1.5 yrs ago, and I just did it again, but worse. This time the derailleur got sucked into the wheel and really did a doozy with the actual hole stretched and deformed.

Is this a lost hope or is it fine to ride, so long as I can straighten it / re-tap the whole and get it shifting?

I suppose my only options are to add a new hanger if that is even possible or make it a single-speed.

Update
To those who may experience the same thing, I was able to successfully bend this back into place and get everything shifting well, despite the hole now being deformed (the derailleur still threaded properly after bending without re-tapping the hole).


texts: Bike computer which doesn't need a smartphone to work

texts:
I'm confused with different models of bike computers available in the market right now.

I actually want a bike computer which can log data including speed, distance, GPS (optional) etc. I'm not interested to take my smartphone while riding, but I want to upload the ride stats in Strava after my ride.

Is there any reliable bike computer available in the market which logs necessary ride stats which can be exported/synced with Strava once the ride is complete?

Is GPS necessary for uploading ride stats in Strava?


texts: What considerations are important when purchasing a new chain?

texts: Are there any special types out there or are they pretty much all the same?


texts: Shimano FC-RS500 11 speed chainset with 10 speed cassette and chain

texts: Is it possible to use a Shimano 11 speed crankset FC-RS500 with a 10 speed ultegra cassette and chain. I will be using 105 5700 front deraileur and a 105 5701 rear. Thanks


texts:
I've got some play in the rear wheel hub, which makes the wheel move sideways a bit. Here's a video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EpXNE9YYdzwxotgWbCeWi2DM9FOlmY7A

How can I fix this? Do I have to disassemble the hub?


texts: Fatigue Considerations: Over-tightened Front Derailleur Dent

texts:
I'm looking into purchasing a used bike to get into touring/bikepacking. There is a particularly low price Soma Double Cross Disc bike I've found on Craigslist that I think would be perfect... with one caveat. As you can see in the image below, a clamp on derailleur was over-tightened on the seat tube. My question is this: should I be worried about this too much? Would this be an easy fix for a frame builder?

Obviously, I have to go take a look at the frame and ensure that there is no cracking. This would perhaps entail removing the paint. I'm also going to consult a couple of shops in my area to get some professional opinions. In my mind, this shouldn't be a big deal on a CrMo frame. It's obviously going to reduce the life of the frame, but for a mere $500 I think I'm okay with that.


texts: Schwinn Meridian Adult Tricycle not easy to turn left. Turning right is fine

texts: It turns right just fine but going to the left, whether on a curve or a hard left turn, seems stiff and a bit precarious. Can this be repaired?


texts: How to clean rim brake track efficiently?

texts:
What are the most efficient and effective ways to clean brake tracks on rims?
It is generally understood that rim brakes work better and pads last longer on clean brake tracks. Dirt on brake tracks tends to tenaciously sit in grooves.
Any method must meet the following criteria:

Work Safety: no exposure to toxic or carcinogenic substances
Easy Disposal: if cleaners cannot be disposed with household waste water or rubbish, or contaminate the ground in one's yard they are out
sufficiently clean: the method ought to lead to sufficiently clean rims, if your method is a wipe with an oily rag, explain why that's enough.
practical: the method needs to work with tyres on, preferably wheel in bike, and better be quick


texts: While riding her bike my daughter's pedal came off. It appears to be stripped. This has happened to her with a total of three bikes. What could be causing this to happen?


texts:
On a recent ride, my GPS stopped functioning about half way through. From other sources I have approximate times for the missing data and I know the route, so (in principle, though I'm really not sure how) I could manually create a track for the second half of the ride. But how do I combine this data with the GPS data from the first half of my ride?

Is there a way to take two separate GPX tracks and combine them into a single one? What issues arise in "syncing" overall times, speeds, etc.? Are there tools that assist in reconciling them?


texts: Do I need to change my cassette if I can't see any wear?

texts:
I bought a new road bike with Campag Athena 11 speed in March last year. To the end of Jan it had covered 9000km.

In all that time I hadn't changed the chain because I don't have the Campag tool, and the KMC chain was not available. I finally got a new chain recently - unsurprisingly the old one was very stretched - so I bought a new cassette as well.

The thing is, the new chain on the old cassette runs very smoothly, and even dismantling them and comparing the cogs I can't see any change in shape or size! I don't know what Campag are making them out of, but it's fantastic stuff.

Everyone I've spoken to is convinced that after 9000km on one chain the cassette will be useless, but the prevailing advice is also to change the cassette when there are issues, and there just don't seem to be any.


texts: Whats a good entry-mid wheelset for a salsa fargo?

texts:
Im building my touring/sportive bike for this summer, and i ve decided to go with a salsa fargo frame, and im thinking of having two separate wheelsets, one for more offroad touring, and one for road optimized sportives/brevets.
Does this sound like a good idea, and if so what are your recommendations for the road wheelset on the fargo?


texts: Can I change a 3speed sturmey archer to a derailleur system?

texts: Might be daft but can I change an internal hub for a derailleur option. I have an old bike which is slow but I do love it. I want to upgrade my running gear but the "chassis" is still tip-top. I don't want to loose my beloved but am sick of the three speed granddad option. I'm aware that this might not be possible but any help you chaps can offer would be great.


texts:
I have mudguards on my bike as shown here:

Firstly, I don't even know what the metal spoke-like things attaching it to the bike are called. Do they have a name?

Secondly, what do I need to attach them back to the bike. From the non-broken ones it doesn't look like a normal screw, but again not knowing the name means I am not getting very far with google.

Lastly, out of interest, is there a name for this type of mudguard and is it an old/out of date type of mudguard.


texts: What is the theory behind a gravel bike?

texts: As I understand a gravel bike, it's basically a road frame but perhaps with a slightly more upright riding position. It has wider tires with much deeper treads and a stiffer rubber than standard road bike tires. What is the theory behind these changes? I had always thought that the thicker and stiffer tires were to prevent small bits of gravel from pinching flats, but is the theory instead that the deeper treads and wider tires are supposed to increase traction? And what is the rationale for the upright riding position?


texts: How can I prevent or mitigate the front wheel coming off the ground when climbing steep hills?

texts:
On one of my bicycles (a 2012 Trek Madone 4.7), when climbing very steep hills, I have had problems with the front wheel coming off the ground. This creates an extremely dangerous situation because when this happens one loses all steering control.

Do I have any recourse beyond choosing a less steep route, getting less fat (catch 22), or using a different bicycle?


texts: Hi does anyone know which model this bike is ? Thanks


texts: Schwinn Racer - Frequent Punctures - Schwalbe Marathon Plus

texts:
I'm a noob, based in Hyderabad and planning to cycle to work - atleast 2-3 times in a week (36 kms from house to work - can't do it right-away - but plan to definitely do it later, when I build up the stamina). My problem is, in Hyderabad with the Metro work going on - the roads are a disaster, my bike, which is a Schwinn Racer (Single-Speed Coaster breaks) is a great road bike, but I'm got fed-up of the frequent punctures, sometimes (5-6 in a month), I changed the tubes 2-3 times, checked tyre pressure, etc., but still the same.

I'm thinking of putting in the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires - both front and back, do you guys think that it will be enough? Or its something to do with my bike itself? Any and all suggestions are welcome!


texts: Are all ready-made wheels sold "cassette compatible" only?

texts:
I will have to change my wheels on my old trusty late-80s Peugeot (PS28) soon. The rear wheel is mounted with a freewheel-type 6-speed hub (not cassette).

I was wondering if all ready-made wheels that you can buy are only cassette compatible (therefore 7-8-9 speeds)?

My derailleur is Shimano 105 with mixed friction/indexed mode, mounted on the tube, I suppose it is only designed to support an indexed 6 speed.

A LBS told me I could only change the rim of the wheel given the hub is in good condition.

What would you suggest would be the best way to approach this?


texts:
I have cranks with 4 holes for outer and middle rings attachment. There are no holed for inner ring attachment. On my other bikes crankset middlering has 8 holes 4 for cranks and 4 for inner ring. I tried to take them and attach to my other outer chainring and cranks and put it on bike, everything works perfect. The problem is I can't find  middle chainring with 8 holes for sale in my country or on ebay. Should I drill 4 more holes on my crank. Or what should I do please advise!

Some IMGS:

I. My other middle chainring with 8 holes, I can't find it for sale:

II. My crank inner side with 4 places for drilling maybe :D


texts: What force (in newtons) are disc brake mounts built to handle?

texts: I'm testing a dropout design and wondering what the standard force is considered for disc brake mounts. Simulation of mine suggests a safety factor of 15 with 2000 newtons applied to the ISO brake tab/brackets, so I'm probably good -- but I'm curious as to what a standard might be.


texts:
I just bought a new Schwinn Cutter, but my brakes are constantly squeaking when I apply them. It has nothing to do with weather as I haven't taken it out in the rain. The rims on the bike do have some colored trim, but I'm not sure if that's the reason. Any ideas on reducing the break squeaking as it's embarrassing?

Follow up: these are not disk brakes.


texts: How to decelerate effectively with a rear brake?

texts:
My front brake is not operational and it will be a couple of days before the replacement Shimano Deore arrives. There are probably other use cases for braking with a rear brake. For example, pad glazing or boiling fluid due to  excessive use of front brake downhill. Or sudden brake cable failure (has happened to me - the cable got cut at the caliper).

I have determined that my stopping distance is about 3 times that of both brakes operational.

Because the center of gravity of the rider is not located on the line between the two contact "points" of the bicycle with the ground, when decelerating an overturning moment is generated. The result is more weight on the front wheel and less on the rear wheel. More weight equals more traction or more stopping power.

Are there any techniques for effectively stopping with only a rear brake? Some way to put more weight on the rear wheel?

Brakes: basic Shimano hydraulic discs
Tires: Schwalbe Land Cruiser
Use: commuting and local autumn trails


texts: Front hydraulic disk brake is too powerful on MTB — solutions?

texts:
I am thinking about disconnecting my front brake altogether because it's either on or it's off, and there's no in-betweens. As a result I've been over the handlebars about five times now and it's getting to be a bit of a pain.

Does anyone know if its possible to soften the brakes so the front acts more like ABS?


texts: What's this part from inside the steering tube?

texts:
I wanted to replace a stem with a new one, so I first tried to screw the top cap off. What happened is that instead of the cap, the piece in the picture came out. What is the name? Is it bad that it came out?

I managed to take the top cap out of it. Is it enough that I screw that piece back on the star nut?


texts: I have changed the chain after my gauge showed that it's .75 worn. New chain jumps anyway. Why? How to deal with it?

texts:
I am riding MTBs for over 8 years and either the rules and tools to measure the chain wear do not work or I don't understand how to use them..

I have bought Canyon Exceed with 1x11 SRAM drivetrain. I have been measuring the chain wear and after 1500 km the chain gauge showed .75, which as I understand means, that the chain is worn and need to be replaced, but the cassette should be ok. So I have changed the chain. Well guess what - it skipped on two sprockets. I was shocked. I had the same situation on my 3x9 Drivetrain. there I even tried to change the chain after 500km and the chain skipped on the 2 smallest sprockets.
I keep my drivetrain quite clean, and lube it frequently, of course this new bike was always washed and lubed..

I don't know what I do wrong.. I expected that the 1x11 drivetrain will help me to avoid this problem, since all the shifting happens only on the cassette side and not on the chainrings.

Maybe some of you have some suggestions, how I can avoid this problem - next to that will the SRAM x-sync 32 chainring (small aluminium chainring) be worn too if I will put the old worn chain again?

Thanks a lot! Gidi


texts:
I am in the process of replacing my worn out bottom bracket. After removing the crankset I see that there are no insets on the bottom bracket for my bottom bracket removal tool to latch on to:

According to the bike manufacturer the bottom bracket is fully enclosed as seen in the picture. I have tried prying the black cap off with a screwdriver but it wont come off. Applying more force with the screwdriver seems to damage the frame and cap as seen in the picture below. The cap seems to be made of some hard rubber type material.

How do i remove this type of bottom bracket?


texts: FSA MegaExo crank tensioner bolt, can I use any 12mm bolt?

texts:
I have a FSA MegaExo (which just came with a bike I bought 2nd hand). As usual the bike needed service because the previous owner did not do anything before selling.
Crank tensioner bolt FSA 12M was stuck, so I had to cut and remove it.
Would you just look for any 12mm bolt or buy the original one (5euro + shipping)?
Bottom bracket was dead as well, and I realize this is quite expensive because of the strange size of the axle - 19mm. It costs 35 euro
Is it worth buying all this or not really worth for this just generic crankset?


texts: Is it worth to get a Bianchi Caurus 909 and rebuild some parts?

texts:
I'm planning to get a Bianchi Caurus 909 2nd hand for city bike and some long rides (30 km average) whenever i want to visit another city for example. The thing is if it worths to get the bike and change the gears, maybe the brakes, handlebar plus the maintenance. I've asked a bicycle guy from my city and he said it would cost something like 80 euros to clean and change its parts that i've mentioned on top.

I'd like to convert this:

To this:

Thanks!


texts: Which waterproof overshoes would you recommend for use with clipless pedal shoes?

texts:
Last Winter I bought some waterproof overshoes on the internet to keep my feet dry on the daily commute. Unfortunately these overshoes fastened with a velcro strap which fastened underneath the shoe obscuring the cleats in both my road shoes (SPD-SL) and mountain bike shoes (SPD). I managed to get by tucking the velcro straps inside the overshoes and wearing them loose, but they have never really stayed secure that way.

Can anyone recommend some waterproof overshoes that:

Keep your feet dry
Fit snugly and don't come undone on a ride or catch on the bike
Have fittings which don't obscure cleats and work well with clipless pedals
Are reasonably priced


texts:
I ride a road bike, mainly on flat terrain.  About two years ago following a 100k ride I had major pain in the front of my knees, just above the patella. The pain did not subside, was present during the following rides,  and I have not been riding (due to a number of unrelated health issues) at all frequently or for any real distance since.

This is the third road bike I have owned - and I have been cycling seriously for about 10 years and have previously completed a couple of century rides.  I do not ride competitively.

I have had two professionals fit and adjust my bike for me - but this was prior to my injury. I now have little faith in their methodology:  After all, I wouldn't be injured if the fit was perfect, right?

My preferred course of action, to ensure I don't repeat the injury, is to make small adjustments to my bike to find a pain-free riding position:  I am currently feeling tweaks in my knees, in the same location, even though I am starting out slowly by only doing 20 to 30K rides.

Can someone provide me advice on how to move forward with this? Please let me know if you need more information from me. Thanks


texts: Is it possible to change the bike’s friction shifter into a trigger shifter?

texts: I found my twist shifter inconvenient because it is very hard to twist, I would want to replace it with a trigger shifter to make it convenient. Is this possible?


texts:
I have a set of Gipiemme Parade Wheels that look like this:

The other day I was getting my bike out of the garage, and I lightly bumped my rear wheel with my foot. The wheel made a strange rattling noise, as if a nipple or some other metallic item was running around in the wheel. My front wheel doesn't do this, and I haven't noticed it before. Should I be worried, and what's making that sound?


texts: How do you secure your prior purchases in your trailer when you go into another store to make more purchases?


texts: I found this 'scratch' on my carbon frame on top of the front derailleur. Not quite sure when or how it appeared. Could this be more than a scratch?


texts:
My carbon frame has some slight scratches and some black gunk around the seat stays. What is the best way to polish the frame to bring it back to its original appearance?

I was thinking of using a solvent to remove the black scuff marks and a 1200 wet-n-dry emory paper with water to gently polish the duco back, finishing it with a gentle buff and polish.

Someone here reckons the car polishing products are just as good.

Any thoughts on this please?

UPDATE: Yes I have tried the damp cloth trick already. No good once it dries.

Thanks


texts: Will mountain bike front derailleur work with Shimano Tourney index shifter?

texts:
I am having trouble getting my Shimano Deore DX front derailleur to work with a Shimano Tourney index shifter. I would like to know if anyone else has made this setup work and am interested if anyone has had success with a different front derailleur. Also, of course, I am interested in any ideas folks might have, besides getting a second bike -- I am mobile and don't have the room -- and I'm both cheap and not rich. Swapping out parts and tires for various uses has worked for me, at least until now.

Here is my setup:
1990 Specialized Stumpjumper (basic model), Shimano Deore DX derailleurs are original to the bike.
It has 3x7 gearing. 11-28 at rear, 26-36-46 in front. The only original gear is the biggest in front, a Shimano SG-X 46.

For my road bike setup, I have a Shimano Sora Flight Deck index shifter on the right -- for my rear derailleur -- and a Shimano Tourney on the left -- for the front derailleur.

I used to have Sora shifters for both derailleurs, but, alas, the front shifter was broken when a family member mailed my bars to me without enough protective packaging. I bought the Tourney on the fly to make a 60-mile group ride.

Factors to consider in any answers folks might provide:

I was able to make the Sora shifters work with this setup.
The front derailleur is stock and pretty beat up. It has some slop and the cage has taken some hits. I have strengthened the cage in the past, so it's likely not perfectly aligned. In the past, this didn't matter. After writing this up, I'm going to see if I can find a replacement online.
I have confirmed the shifter is for a 3x7 setup by checking its model number.
I know how to adjust derailleurs and even checked in with videos by Calvin Jones of Park Tools to make sure I wasn't missing something.
Basically, the Tourney shifter only has enough travel to give me the bottom and middle gear or the middle and top gear.
Oddly, I can get the front shifting to work on my stand, but not when I give it a road test. My wife helpfully suggested my weight is the factor here ... (190 pounds/86 kg, 6 foot/182cm).

Thank you in advance for any help you folks can provide.


texts:
I have a Nashbar floor pump with an automatic Presta/Schrader head. The valve holes are on one side of the head and the air is supposed to switch to the hole with the valve inserted. It used to work great but now it won't switch, i.e. it blows air to the side that's not attached.

I tried the normal stuff, banging, wiggling the head etc. Is it dirt inside the head? Worn parts? Has anyone tried to take one of these apart? WD40? Or should I just get a new pump? It works great otherwise; when it's selected to the right hole (sometimes Schrader, sometimes Presta), but 90% of the time it's on the side I don't want! And because of my budget it was one of my "major" purchases!


texts:
I have a relatively new Salsa Journeyman, which has now, after about 200km, developed a squeal in the front hub.
The squeal is relatively quiet on low speeds, but gets noticeably loud when riding faster.
The wheel is fitted with an unmarked Formula hub, which i believe is a DC-20 model based on its shape.
I did already check the brakes and it's definitly not caused by them.
It looks like the gasket part of the hub is rotating with the wheel and causing the squeal.

How do I fix this squealing?


texts:
I suspect that something has pierced my frame. At any rate, I have a dent in my bike frame. I would like to avoid the possibility of corrosion, with minimium cosmetic trade off. So, how do I go about fixing the dent?

EDIT

I have since noticed that nothing has pierced my frame. However, there is corrosion.

Here is the frame spec:

Frame Material: Steel

Frame Size: 17-18

Frame: Voodoo Black Magic butted thin wall heat treated Cro-mo frame


texts: Is this FD compatible with this crankset: 2 teeth too litle

texts:
I am a proud owner of this guy. The crankset is SRAM S1200, 36/22 and the FD is SRAM X7, direct mount.

However, the cage on the FD broke, and I ordered this item in a hurry.

1) Dyna-Sys 10-speed design – for use with Dyna-Sys 10-speed MTB drivetrains.

2) Specifically developed for 68 and 73 mm bottom bracket shells with a 48.8 mm chain line

3) 66-69 degree chainstay to seat tube angle range.

4) 44-38 tooth outer ring compatible, total capacity 14 teeth

Questions:

1)  I have heard Shimano and SRAM FDs are compatible  - is that true?

2) 73mm BB - check, 48.8mm chain line - how do I check this? Is it correct to measure with a ruler from the center of the frame to the middle of the two chainrings? I doubt I can get accurace better than a couple of mm.

3) 66-69 degrees chainstay - check - it it inscribed on the old FD.

4) The tooth capacity is OK, but my big ring is 2 teeth too large.

All in all, can this equipment work together or be made to work together, or do I need to toss it?


texts: New frame bottom bracket and crank compatibility and general stupidity!

texts:
I recently bought a Scott CR1 SL 2012 frame to replace a crash damaged frame on my 2009 Boardman Team Carbon road bike.  The intention being to move as much as possible across from the old bike on to the new bike.  Mostly all went well, I even managed to cut the fork and install the headset.  I didn't have any specific tools and the press-fit went in by firm hand pressure.

Anyway, on to the BB and crank.  The old bike was running SRAM Rival and SRAM GXP cranks.  New frame came with Shimano press-fit BB already fitted (I believe to be Shimano SM-BB91-41B).  From a lot of internet searching it was still unclear whether the BB is compatible with GPX crank so I gave it a go to see.  Once fitted it actually seemed fine but after a short test ride there was a bit of play that no tightening could get rid of.  I left it for a week then went back to it to remove when I had a spare 5 minutes......  Oh dear, in my rush I forgot that to remove I need to leave the outer 'screw' in and loosen the inner one to push the crank arm off.  Instead I screwed a crankpuller in to the crankarm and kept tigntening and managed to strip it.  So now left with a stuck crank arm.

So first things - need to remove the crankarm, I have tried hammering it outwards and it seems to have budged a bit but now none further.  Going to try a gentle ride soon to see if that helps.  The arm is knackered so also could cut it off but how easy is that?  Any other suggestions.  I'm not sure riding it is going to work but it may.....

Once it is off what to do next?  I think options are:

1) Swap BB to Sram BB86 GXP and stick with my crankset after buying a new crankarm.  Problem here is removing and fitting the BBs, new tools etc

2) Go Shimano crankset, the 'off the shelf' bike uses Dura Ace but could use a lower range crankset that would fit the BB I suppose.

I'm leaning towards (2) as it involves less fitment work on my part although will cost a bit more but at the same time I don't mind upgrading anyway.....

Any thoughts on first of all removing the old arm?  Then what would you do given my options?

Thanks


texts: Replacing a 1950s or early 1960 solid rubber 20" bicycle tire

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How can I replace a '50s or early '60s 20" solid rubber bicycle tire?

I have been looking everywhere.

The wheel measures 17" by 1 1/2". New ones are too small to fit.

Any information would be appreciated.


texts: I have a Schwinn Skyliner bicycle for my wife

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I need to replace a quick release skewer that came out of the front wheel of the bike. What specific Skewer do I need? How long is the skewer and how thick is the rod of the skewer?

Thank you very much.


texts: Is there a special 3/32" chain ring for single speed/fixed gear bikes?

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Am I able to use what's called an "Outer" chain ring in a single speed application?  Something like this

https://www.modernbike.com/sugino-48t-110mm-standard-chainring

Thank you.


texts: How to use a vapor barrier with cycling shoes for cold weather riding?

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I've heard many people like to use plastic newspaper bags or grocery bags as a vapor barrier when cold weather cycling. I'm already wearing winter cycling boots which prevent outside water infiltration, but I've been considering this for really cold days or longer rides below freezing since my insoles eventually get soaked with sweat eventually and become very good at transferring the cold from the bottoms of my shoe to my feet.

What is the most effective way to use vapor barriers inside shoes to keep warm? Should I wear the vapor barrier over my socks, under my socks, or between two layers? What is the theory behind it?


texts: Generally what should the tension be for spokes in wheels built up from scratch? For the front wheel? Should the tension be different for drive-side/non-drive-side spokes in the rear? Should tension run differently for different cycling applications E.G. mtb, cyclocross, pavement, touring, etc...


texts: Why is a derailleur guard present only on more affordable bicycles?

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Looking at http://decathlon.co.uk, I see a derailleur guard only on more affordable bicycles, e.g. this one.

This one does not have it, and there seems to be no obvious way to install one.

Are derailleur guards important? Why does the more expensive bicycle (with higher component replacement costs if something breaks) not have one? Is it correct that one cannot be installed on the one shown in the picture? If it can be installed, is it recommended?

One might always fall, or a parked bicycle may get knocked over.