texts: Is it OK to use coffee or other drinks to clean road rash?

texts:
This may seem like an odd question, but I was wondering if it's safe or a good idea to rinse road rash with iced coffee or other drinks? My usual strategy for road rash is to clean the fresh wound as soon as possible as thoroughly as possible, but normally I'd use water (and soap if available).

However, on my commute to work today I came across a fellow cyclist who'd just wiped out (biking fast around a wet corner, wheels slipped out from under him when he hit a slippery patch). He had some nasty road rash on his leg and elbow. He slid half on pavement, half on wet dirt, so the wound was pretty dirty. The only liquid I had with me on my commute is iced coffee (with milk and sugar). I offered him the  coffee to rinse his leg and he declined,  but he did use the packet of neosporin I gave him (which seemed of limited usefulness given how dirty the wound was). His bike was ok and he was able to ride on to work and said he'd have someone look at his leg later.

So anyway, I was wondering if cleaning a wound  immediately with coffee (or other drinks, like tea, Gatorade, Coke, etc) is a good idea or if it would be better to just wait until I get to home/work to clean it with soap and water? I'd do a thorough cleaning at home regardless, but is there any benefit to cleaning immediately after the crash even if I don't have any water available? Also, is the answer different if I'm facing a 2 or 3 hour walk to better facilities rather than a 20 - 30 minute ride?

And a related question, what else could I carry in my commute bag that would be useful for situations like this -- wet wipes?

I did come across this related post on treating road rash, but it doesn't address what to do at the time of the accident:

What do you do to cure road rash more quickly after a crash?


texts: Is a pad spacer needed when installing disc brake pads?

texts: I need to replace my disc brake pads on my Shimano XT brakes. This seems like a pretty straight forward procedure, and I have all the tools needed except for the pad spacer. Do I need this to install the new pads correctly, and if I do, is there something else I can use?


texts: What tools should I carry around to replace the tube on a bike with bolt-on wheels while on the road?

texts:
I'm considering getting a fixed-gear bike for commuting, and I'm unclear on how one can quickly replace a punctured tube on a bike with bolt-on wheels.

So far, all the bikes I've had (at least, since I started riding enough to actually get a puncture or two) have had quick-release skewers, which made fixing a flat on the road a breeze; pull over, loosen the quick-release by hand, pop off the wheel, replace the tube, pop the wheel back on, and tighten the quick-release by hand.

However, most fixies I've been looking at have wheels that are bolted on and then tightened using a wrench, with no easy way to remove a wheel without using a wrench.

What tools do fixed-gear bike riders carry around to replace flats on the road?

I'm specifically interested in stuff that would fit inside a saddle bag.


texts:
I am having some issues with my drive trainsystem. I have changed my chain after quite a while (shame on me) with a new one, that i sized exactly on the same number of links as the old one. When pedalling however, when putting a high pressure on the pedal the chain skips.

My issue is, whether the chain is not sized properly (since I havent had this issue before) or is there a problem with worn casette cogs or the freewheel.

I get a from-factory setup of Sram casette and probably Shimano hub (not sure). The cogs are quite loose on the freewheel as you can see on the picture. I dont know if this normal, but would expect to hold firmly.

I usually ride on tough gears, so I dont know if the end of the freehub is demaged by this as you can see on the picture, or it is the design of the freehub.

Talking about the cogs, once again I dont know if they seem to be worn, or the edges are not sharp  and look like this by design.

I would very much appreciate your advice on whether the cogs, or freehub have to be changed or it is probably just an issue with the chain length. Thanks in advance ! :)

Martin

EDIT:
I just made a video to demonstrate how loose the cogs are. Even after tightening the lock, one can still rotate the cogs on the freewheel. Is this normal ?

My loose cogs on freehub (video on Youtube)

EDIT 2:
I also post the picture of the fron chainring. Is this worn to much, or you think this is more probably causing the chain skipping, than the rear?


texts: I'm looking to purchase some quality flat pedals for my bike. I've been riding cheap plastic ones and they keep breaking! I am currently looking at the Race Face Aeffect since they are aluminum. Any and all recommendations are appreciated!


texts: hello, Any info on this bicycle, it make, model and possible year. The young man was born in 1931


texts:
I have a Vision Team 30 rear wheel with a Taxc tyre mounted onto a carbon frame bike.

I have recently noticed that the whole wheel sways from side to side about 1-2mm when I pedal. Is this normal for the wheel to have a bit of movement or should it spin in a completely straight line?

The wheel is centered on the the resistance roller and I have tried tightening the quick release but the wheel still moves.


texts:
I have an old double trailer from when my kids were little that I kept and use to haul stuff. Yesterday I heard a loud bang while it was sitting in the driveway, and it turns out one of the inner tubes blew. It is not repairable.
I have been searching for hours for this type of tube, without success:
16x1.75 with a bent Schrader valve
It has to be bent because the wheel is solid. The original one was a Kenda, I can find them with straight valves, or I can find wider ones (2.125 and up), but not this size with a bent valve (except for Ebay with shipping from China, but I don't want to wait until August). Should I get one with a straight valve and try to bend it/squeeze it in, or get a 2.25 inch wide tube for my 1.75 tire?

This trailer does not travel far or fast, but it has to carry heavy loads.


texts:
I own a 2019 Croix De Fer 10 and would like to replace its fork since I recently damaged it. I went on Genesis's website to try and find out exactly what kind of fork it is, I am quite new to bike maintenance and cannot tell by just looking at it. The only thing I managed to surmise it is a unicrown straight steerer...I think it's 1 1/8".
I would love if anyone had any suggestion for a replacement fork I could get or if they could help me understand how to look for the right one.
I found this:
https://www.condorcycles.com/collections/forks/products/condor-bivio-disc-fork
but I am not sure it would work.
Does the replacement need to be a straight steerer or can I also use a tapered steerer (maybe with an adaptor)?
What should I look out for? Will my mechanical disc brakes fit on it?
I just don't know what to even look for to go about and find a replacement. I have tried asking my local shops but they are slammed and I am shielding, so I am not sure what to do.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
What type of sunscreen is best for long road rides? I'm thinking sweatproof, non-greasy, non-smelly. Ideally it would be a 'low risk' and 'safe' according to something like the EWG or Good Guide, since I don't like putting nasty chemicals on my body.

The goal is something that lasts a long time (think 4 or 5 hour ride in the hot sun) while sweating, without running into my eyes/mouth/onto my hands.

Experiences?


texts: Are there any 'anti-fly' masks on the market?

texts:
I keep swallowing flies, because I'm mostly cycling along a canal.  I'm cycling quite hard, and mild hayfever means that I can't just breathe in through my nose.

I've bought a 'buff', but I'm getting too hot in that, and I'm not worried about pollution (small particles), so I'm after a lightweight mask that I can breathe through easily.  Are there any masks on the market suitable for this?


texts:
I've gotten my self my first mountain bike, along with a Bike computer. This needs to be setup, but im really not sure how i do this. The wheel size of the bike is a 27,5 inches. The bike computer is a Bontrager Trip 100, that comes with the following wheel settings:

700:23, 700:25, 700:28, 700:32, 700:35, 700:38, 29:2.1, 29:2.2, 26:1.5, 26:1.9, 26:2.0, 26:2.1, 26:2.2, 26:2.3

One thing is what setting to enter on the computer, but im also unsure about where i should place the sensor and receiver on the wheel. I believe it must matter if i place the sensor and receiver near the center of the wheel, or if i place it need the edge.


texts:
I recently bought a bike overseas rather than at LBS (no LBS had the type of bike I wanted).  Now the bike makes a strange noise and I can't bring it in for servicing (buy from LBS when you can!).  Could anyone give me any pointers to what could be the cause of this?

When the chain is on the largest (size 34) or second largest cog and I am either free wheeling or back pedaling, there is a squeaky sound.  When the chain is on any other cog there is no so such sound.  Visually, there is no contact of any part where contact should not be.

Below is a link to a video.  What could this be?

Thanks,
Mark

 video recording of the behavior and sound


texts: Can mountain biking shoes be used with road bikes? What are the pros and cons?

texts: Is there anything wrong with wearing mountain biking shoes (SPD) with a road bike? I find that it makes sense because you can still walk around with them on but you still have the ability to clip in and pull the pedal up like a normal road bike shoe would allow. Am I missing any aspect of the situation?


texts: Should I change the tire and tube or can it be patched?

texts:
Someone deliberately pierced the rear tire of my fixed gear bike. It's a 700cX25 tire with 700cX18-23 tube inside. As you can see from the image the threads have come out. I am not sure about the severity of the damage. So what should I do of the following remedies:
1. Replace both tire and tube
2. Replace the tube and patch the tire
3. Replace the tube and leave the tire as it is
4. Patch both tire and tube


texts: How to roll-start with a back-pedal coaster brake?

texts:
I have a bicycle with a coaster brake. It is very "handy" to brake even without hands. But somehow I can only do a stand still start. This means if have to get on bike first and then start pedaling. With other bikes step on the pedal and push my bike till got like 5km/h and then hop on. If I do that with my Dutch-bike, I always trigger the brakes and hence fail to quick start.

Is there any way to avoid this?


texts: Fitting a 9-speed 11-50T cassette on MTB: which derailleur?

texts:
I'm trying to understand if its possible to fit a 9-speed 11-50T cassette (found one on Ali) on my MTB. The plan is to go 1×9. The problem is that I can't seem to understand the if a specific derailleur can handle that.

The rear derailleur in mind is Shimano M4000 long cage.
Should I use a hanger extension? Will 11-42T be better for that?

Thanks for the help


texts: Bottom Bracket on a Trek CrossRip Comp 2016?

texts: I'm trying to change my crank set from a FSA Vero 602 50/39/30 set to a FSA Gossamer Pro 386ABS 48/32.  I have the new crank set but I need to know what my bracket shell standard is.  I was wondering if anyone out there has a Trek CrossRip Comp 2016?  Would you happen to know if the bracket Trek used on these bike was the same and if so, do you know the bracket standard without me taking it apart.  I am currently using the bike on a trainer and really don't want to tear it down to find out.  I would like to get the bracket before I do this.


texts: will any shimano pedal fit any shimano crank?

texts:
I bought a second hand boardman cb pro mountain bike. It came with no pedals (as expected) but the guy gave me some 1/2 inch screw pedals, flat basic ones.

But they don't fit. The screw diameter is way too small for the thread on (I believe you call it a crank).

The crank is shimano Fc-m542.

The bike is relatively modern. (within 5 years, at a guess).

Is there a specific size pedal I need to look for so it fits tge thread / hole?


texts:
I've been putting up some pounds and have a bike gathering dust at home =D

I normally commute by bus or carpool, but would like an opinion from some more seasoned bikers on how you'd tackle this commute http://goo.gl/maps/0ts21

My excuses are:

It's scary, for me at least, because the destination is at some big highway with trucks and everything racing at +80 km/h.
Bike lanes down here in .mx are not even a concept in most parts of the country.
No place to shower at the destination and the job is white collar.
Crazy hot weather, up to 40°C and above at times.

So the questions are:

Is this doable?
If so, how should a noob tackle it?

Thanks for reading and do share any insight you might have.


texts: Is the fit wrong on my road bike or is my body too stiff / inflexible?

texts:
I am very confused about how to get a correct fit on a road bike. I am female, 5'5", average weight and proportions, and have a 31" inseam. Recently, I decided to buy a Specialized Ruby after trying out my friend's bike and noticing how smoothly it rides. I was told by one LBS that I should ride a size 51cm or 48cm bike but I feel stretched out. They said it's because I'm not used to the position. When I look at myself in a mirror on the bike with my torso making a 45 degree angle from the horizontal I don't feel comfortable. When I ride with that position on the demo bike I feel stretched out and struggling to support my torso at that angle though my arms don't lock.

Another LBS fitter is convinced that I need a much smaller bike and has tried to fit me on the 44cm. My arms do have a slight bend and I am sitting more upright and don't feel stretched out as much.

So, my question is--who is right? I am also thinking about trying out road racing, so getting the correct fit is crucial.


texts: Brisbane - Logan cycle route question / How to find/ask about good cycle routes in certain areas

texts:
Sorry if this is a bit meta.
My specific question is: What (if any) is a good route to cycle between Logan (QLD,AUS) (near the M1) to Brisbane (via the V1) for those adverse to riding on busy roads.
Alternatively, where would be a good place on the internet to ask this question?
To elaborate on my question further: I am investigating regular travel between Daisy Hill and Brisbane CBD. Once you get on the V1 at eight mile plains its easy but just before then is a bit tricky. It seems your choices are either along Logan road to where the V1 hilariously starts at a motorway onramp with not even another foot path in sight. From School Road to the V1, Logan road is 80km/h with no footpath and not even a hard shoulder in sections.  Alternatively to the east of the M1, there is school rd on to Miles Platting Road, but this road section seems to be missing paved footpath as well.
Has anyone got some tips on this section, or the journey as a whole?
I believe the V1 extension to the underwood road overpass will be complete by mid year, which would make things easier. but until then..
Thanks!


texts: What does self-support mean during touring?

texts:
Please, justify each item/action you take/do to qualify to be self-supportive during touring. My problem is independent touring around the world. The term self-support per se means no extra luggage, among other things, because you cannot carry them.

  UPDATE I will award the bounty to person who makes my hope possible: I
  want a new clearer community wiki
  -format so that no-one will get credit and everyone are free to make edits,
  without creating duplicate answers and
  keeping this question clearer and more
  accessible for future users. If there
  is no willing mod, I will reward the
  bounty to a person that makes the
  largest contribution to find
  self-supportive tips on this site or
  other sites, appropriate to touring.

Discussion in meta here.


texts: Getting the hub logo facing the valve hole?

texts:
I have built a number of wheelsets and always struggle to get the hub logotype "upwards" and faces the valve hole in my rim, so that it aligns with the tire logo.

Instead of getting it right the first time, I end up lacing a whole bunch of spokes and then moving them one at a time until everything looks as intended.

How do I do it?


texts:
I use clipless pedals for bike commuting, and I'm looking for suggestions on waterproof "booties" that can go over a pair of cycling cleats.

I can find some products on-line, but can't ever see the bottom of the "bootie" whether it covers up the cleat or not! What's the name of the thing I'm looking for, so I can search for them?


texts:
I've got another mystery at my hands. This time this 26.6mm seatpost (although i'm not with a paquimeter on my hands, a 26.8mm one almost fits is), italian thread bb. By scratching the dropouts I couldn't find any visible stamps and I have no idea of any components and fork that it came originally. I can read the serial number as 903273 and have never seen those lugs before, does anyone have any idea?

here are the pics


texts: How should I remove a tyre that's stuck to the rim with old sealant?

texts:
I have a wheel with a puncture. It seems to be a pinch flat (the air is shooting out in the direction of the rim) but I can't get the tyre off to investigate.

This is an ex-tubeless tyre that I put a tube in once. Guess I should have cleaned up the sealant first. Now I can't even move the tyre, let alone remove it.

The rim is aluminium. Is there a powerful solvent that is safe to use, that would weaken the old Stan's + muck glue?

I googled around this, and most answers are 'be a man! use tyre levers! No, they're for girls, use your thumbs!'.

Well, I'm beat. I have poor muscle tone and bad motor skills for medical reasons, so I accept the possibility that 'normal' people could just pull it off. I, however, can't. The suggestion here was use a credit card but that didn't work.

I could take it to the bike shop, but something tells me this isn't the last time something like this will happen. I'd like a solution for next time. I need a solvent that won't attack the aluminium. Ideally I'd like to save the tyre/tube, but that's a bonus.

Edit: whoever suggested a vice, that worked. It unstuck the tyre and I could remove it normally with tyre levers.


texts:
I bought a Campagnolo master link (this one) for use with my Campy 10 speed chain. When it's not on a chain, it joins up and clicks into place and all is well.

However, when I try to fit it around the chain link the pin doesn't seem to go through far enough to allow the groove in the pin to 'engage' with the opposite groove. Based on the packet it seems there are different pin lengths.

How do I know what pin length I should aim to get to fit my chain? Are there different 'standard' lengths for Campy chains?


texts: Dura Ace 7700 (with American Classic RD205 rear hub) Broke Shifter. Upgrade Options

texts:
I’m currently putting quite a lot of miles on an older Canyon F10 carbon bike equipped with Dura Ace 7700 shifters, derailleurs and brakes. My wheels are American Classics with a newer RD205 hub, which according to American Classic supports 10/11 speed cassette.

Unfortunately, my right shifter broke and I’m quite short on options regarding 9 speed shifters. I could go with Microshift, which would be a significant downgrade as well as Sora.

I really love that bike but it’s a bit old for a complete 11 speed upgrade.

If going with 10 speed 105 5700 is the difference in shifting in comparison to 7700 big?

Any suggestions?


texts: Making the pedals on my kid's bike rotate when I push so he'll learn to pedal

texts:
I bought a 12" bike with support wheels for my kid. He is 2.5 years old. He is not pedaling the bike, so I push the bike from the back. The bike moves forward, the wheels rotate, but the pedals do not move. Since the pedals do not move, my kid just puts his feet on them and will not pedal.

How can I make the pedals move when the wheels move so that he'll learn to pedal?


texts: I'm a man 5'8" planning to get a new bike as a beginner. looking for going around the city + fitness. My budget under $800. The bike that I need it should make me fall in love with Road bikes.


texts: how can I fix an uneven hydraulic disk brake set

texts:
I have a cargo bike (http://www.christianiabikes.com/en/product/26/) with front wheels having bengal helix 7.5 hydraulic disk brakes.

Inexperienced me, I have taken off the caliper from the rotor on the right side and squeezed the lever. After that I wasn't able to put the rotor back. Then I took apart the caliper (the entire thing, not just the bleeding valve) and leaked some fluid so that I could put the rotor back and took the bike to the bike shop.

They have filled the liquid up but the brakes became uneven. Bike is steering towards left when it is braked. They are saying that they cannot do any better than that since I messed with it and asking me to buy a new brake set.

Is it really true that brakes are ruined? Can I not fix it by completely disposing the fluid and starting over?


texts: I recently bought a "Schwinn Women's Clear Creek 28"/700c Hybrid Bike", and it turns out I'm uncomfortable with the wheel size. I couldn't figure out why I'm so unstable on it. Even though I haven't ridden a bike in 10 years or so I should have been able to pick it up right away. Well, I found out that the bike I rode from the time I was 10 until I was in my early 20's had 24" wheels. It was also a mountain bike. This new bike is a hybrid bike and has 28" wheels. With my old bike I was comfortable and in control when my seat was higher than the handlebars and I was still able to touch the ground. With these 28" wheels, my seat is up as far as I can go with my feet still able to touch the ground and I don't have enough height over my handlebars to feel stable (and I'm 5'11"). Does anyone know if it's possible to change out these wheels for 24"? Or is that size only for kid's bikes or mountain bikes? What about 26"? Thanks!


texts: Is there any available Strava statistics regarding rider's distance compared to others' per year?

texts:
I'm writing an application and would like to know how my logged 22.000 km during 2017 stand compared to all Swedish Strava users.

https://2017.strava.com/en-us/videos/64f479a9bec7cd1793afe4322823092b99d462bf/


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Fixing noisy V brakes

I have quite an old mountain bike, that has become quite rusted over the past few years. I just tuned up the derailleurs and replaced my brake pads.

The front brakes work just fine; no issues. However, the rear brakes whine/squeal very loudly whenever I use them. This happened with my old brake pads and the new ones have caused no change.

What would be the best way to diagnose/fix the noise?


texts: Is 7-speed for 10-speed cassette replacement possible?

texts:
I have a city/touring bike with Shimano MF-TZ21 freewheel hub which is 340mm wide (I measured). I would like to change it to a 10-speed cassette 11-25 or 11-28 but I am not sure if it can fit between my chainstays (129mm). I know I would need to buy shorter hub also (and deraileurs, shifters, chain etc.). In bike service they told me (without measurements) they are not sure if new 10-speed package can fit between my chainstay. I googled 10-speed Shimano cassette dimensions but I could hardly find anything I can interpret correctly.
Please help, can I fit new package in 129mm?


texts:
Having just learned to ride a bike in my 30s, I've just taken my first tumble over the handlebars and jarred my shoulder.

Should I rest the shoulder or keep stretching it? Looking to reduce recovery time


texts:
I'd just bought a used wheel, but didn't actually notice its quite serious crack on the sidewall of the rim (silly me, quite foolish to not inspect it).

In this case, what are the odds of it failing, when used exclusively on a trainer?


texts: How should I set up my rear shock (with ProPedal) to minimise bob when climbing?

texts: I've got a Fox RP23 rear shock which I'm very happy with, apart from the apparent ineffectiveness of the ProPedal setting.  Bob is very noticeable on climbs in both positions.  It's hard to say which is better.  I don't expect to eliminate it completely, I just want to know that I've got the optimal setup for my bike and riding style. The manual is pretty vague so I'm wondering if anyone has any useful tips?


texts: What's the best way to fix carbon to titanium?

texts:
I'm building (experimenting if you wish) something out of the old bike parts and I need to fix two parts together one titanium and carbon.

Basically the parts are two tubes one made of carbon of a lower diameter and one made of titanium. So the carbon tube goes inside the titanium tube and I need to find a way to fix it inside for good. I guess it should be some kind of a hardcore gluing.

If anyone have any experience or suggestions please share. Thank you!


texts: Carrying a child and balance bike on my bike

texts:
I have a child who is 2 1/2 years old (28 months actually) and he is about 98cm tall and weighs about 15-16kg.
He has an Islabikes Rothan balance bike which is 3.5kg (7.7 pounds).
When we go to ride his bike he eventually gets tired and I have to carry both him and the bike back home (I am sure all parents can relate to that).

I was wondering if I could get a child seat and attach/hang the bike behind the seat so that:

We can ride our bikes togeather
When he gets tired I can put him in the seat, hang the bike on the back and return home

Also I am thinking that the child seat should be carrier mounted to hold more weight since most child seats hold up to 22kg (~48.5 pounds) and with 16 + 3.5 = 19.5kg they would probably be maxed out if it was frame mounted.


texts: Using a 10 speed Shimano 105, do the shifters ever wear out? Should I get a spare just in case?

texts: As per title as I would like to keep my bike as Long as I can.


texts: Are there road bike tires invulnerable to popping?

texts:
I am a mountain biker now living in Minneapolis and so I bought a road bike, but I can't keep tires on it to save my life. I 'upgraded' to Continental Attack/Force tires, got a glass shard in the rear, and now just went over a pothole that popped both the front Continental and rear stock tires.

I haven't even been able to even ride a mile on it. At this point, I'll take heavier wheels with more rolling resistance just to be actually able to ride. Does anyone make solid rubber or non-pneumatic tires for 700c wheels?

These look neat, but they aren't being produced yet:

Side note: I like to drop and hop curbs (though I haven't even been able to attempt it on the road bike), there are frequently metal shavings or other sharp objects on my garage floor, and I live in a neighborhood with lots of cracks and potholes. Should I just give up on road bikes and stick with my mountain bike?


texts: Metal strand lining protruding from ends of shifter housing

texts: What could I have done wrong to cause the metal strands within my shifter cable housing to protrude out the ends? Did I use the wrong ferrules (I also have black, plastic ones)? Did I get cheap cables? Did I cut the housing too short? I'd ask if I did a poor job cutting the housing, but I used the Park Tool CN-10 cable cutter which I thought did a fairly fine job of cutting these.


texts: What is the best pedalling technique to heal and prevent patellar tendonitis?

texts: I have a very mild case of patellar tendonitis.  But, it is a chronic and recurring problem I have been dealing with since 2011.  I get it mainly from playing tennis.  But, I notice that when biking I can also agravate it a little.  I bike on a touring bike with fixies type pedals that fit pretty well.  What should I watch for in my pedalling technique to heal my patellar tendonitis?


texts:
I have heard often that you should replace a worn chain, that a chain lasts somewhere between 800-1200 miles, and that if you don't replace the chain on time, you'll need to replace the cassette when you get a new chain.

My question is this: instead of going through 4 or 5 chains between cassette replacement, what is the downside of riding the same chain until the cog needs replacement? And, if you do that, how long would you be able to do so?


texts: How do I tell the difference between bike brands

texts: I have a 20 inch BMX bike. It was given to me with no stickers or identifying marks on it. How do I tell the difference between brands?


texts: What are some alternatives to fruitlessly ringing my bell at a motorist?

texts: I doubt that motor-vehicle drivers can hear the "ding" sound that a bicycle bell makes. What are some better alternatives?


texts: How to prevent breathing issues during extreme cold

texts:
Yesterday I rode to work in -2°F / -19°C temps.  When I got to my destination (only about 3.5 miles), my lungs felt terrible.  My voice was hoarse and I was coughing a lot. All this despite the fact that I was wearing several wool and fleece layers, a thick balaclava and was completely toasty the whole ride.

The ride may have triggered some exercise induced asthma due to the extreme cold. I tried to cover my face with the balaclava, but there was not enough ventilation and was getting short of breath trying to breath through the fleece, especially when climbing hills.

This sort of thing is something that should not be repeated for the health of my lungs.  What gear or techniques can I use to prevent this kind of lung irritation during extreme cold?


texts:
My chain is struggling to get onto the big chain ring and when it does it has quite a bit of chain rub.
The limit screws are quite literally on the limit! And there doesn't appear to be a barrel adjuster.
I tried loosening the cable bolt and pulling on the cable to tighten but it didn't seem to have anymore to give.
Anyone have any advice?
Chain on small cog on rear cassette.


texts: What type of Hayes hydraulic brake is this?

texts: I am having trouble finding out which brake set from Hayes this is. I think they are from around 2003 or so. The brake levers were spray painted and I can't see anything about them anywhere. I'm trying to buy brake pads and a bleed kit for them, so if you have any bleed kit recommendations let me know!


texts: Internally geared hub on a 20 inch wheel

texts:
The bicycle has a two gear automatic IGH, which I would like to replace with a 5 or even better a 7 gear hub. I am very much a beginner with this so I would need any kind of help and advice you can offer.

The reason I am doing this is because I need a little more assistance when cycling up hill and also a little more speed when going on flat land. Right now the e-bike i capped at 25 km/h.

My questions are:

Can I use any kind of IGH or are there some differences in size or number of holes or such? Note I only use the bicycle in the city so no wild rides or anything like that.

What is the cheapest way to get my bicycle to have a little more range with the gears? I assumed it was replacing the IGH but maybe there are other options.

Anything else you want to share would be appreciated as well!

I'm also enclosing a picture if that helps.


texts: installing 11-40T Sunrace cassette with Sram Rival 22

texts:
I'm trying to build up a hillclimb bike (Mt. Washington) - current set-up is OK, but I could use the help AND don't care about temporarily losing the use of my big chain ring.  Current set-up (all SRAM Rival 22):

50/34 crankset
11-32 cassette
mid-length rear derailleur

Seems like the conversion should be possible with Sunrace CSMX8 cassette (11-40T, 11-speed), the Wolftooth derailleur hanger extension, and a SRAM PC-1130 chain.

Assuming this is possible, are there pitfalls to consider?  Other recommended parts?

RESULTS
For those of you who arrive in this rather obscure location wondering about a similar set-up, I made the change described above and disabled the front derailleur (per @Argenti Apparatus's suggestion) and it worked out beautifully - so far, shifts as well as or better than the standard set-up with the SRAM cassette...


texts: Is any major manufacturer working on a 12 speed group?

texts:
So, 11 speed groups are great, but as everyone knows, they are old news and manufactures are constantly innovating and upgrading to sell "this year's" new parts.

11 speed has been around for a while now and I was wondering if any of the big names are developing a 12 speed group?  Are there any freehubs that could support this?

Personally, I wouldn't rush out to but one but it seems inevitable.


texts: TRP spyre mounts wider than rear disc mount positions

texts:
I recently picked up a Cannondale CAAD12 Disc and some TRP spyre disc calipers for it. Just lining up the mount holes on the spyres to the mount positions, the front disc mounts on the fork line up great. Hoever, the mount positions on the rear are closer together than the mount positions on the spyre caliper. The two spyre calipers are the same, but the disc mount positions on the rear of the CAAD12 frame are closer together.

Is there an adapter or something I need to get? Or a completely new caliper? Will this affect what size rotors I can run?


texts:
I've been riding a Marin San Anselmo hybrid for some 13 years and I'd guess I've done over 7000 miles on it almost exclusively on the road (and it's not my commuting bike).

I'm gradually doing more cycling and longer distances and I'm finding myself increasingly uncomfortable (neck and inside leg). So I'm starting to wonder if it's actually suited to the kind of riding I do. I'm already looking to get a proper bike fit, but I'm also considering a custom frame in steel or titanium with higher spec components and (gulp!) drop handlebars.

I'm 5ft 8in (174cm), 30inch inside leg, 10 stone (140lbs/64kg). A bit small for a bloke, but not that freaky for a cyclist perhaps!

At the level of bike I'm looking at, the cost doesn't seem to be much more than something off the shelf, but it is a lot more hassle. Then again I hope this bike to last me the rest of my days, so maybe it's worth the effort to get it right.

So I'm wondering if a custom frame will make me more comfortable and/or faster and what experiences similar-sized people have had.


texts: Do new hubs need to be adjusted prior to use

texts: Do new hubs usually come adjusted, or one needs to adjust them prior to use. I have a new Shimano Claris hub, and it does not seem to be as smooth rolling as my previous Tiagra hub. Should I try to adjust it, or leave it as is?


texts:
How do self-sealing inner tubes work? I understand it protects against objects up to a certain length, but do I need to still remove the offending object eventually? Or do I need to leave it in?

Are they generally reliable and worth it?


texts: handlebar light (or mount) with ball and socket joint

texts:
Is there a handlebar light or mount that uses a ball and socket joint or otherwise allows complete freedom to change where it points? I like to adjust my light depending on a # of factors. For example, as I approach someone on the trail, I'll adjust the light down and to the right to avoid blinding them. Sometimes I'll want it more up (in areas with branches at head level) or to the side (for an upcoming turn). And so on.

I've been unable to find a product providing this kind of adjustability.

In contrast, handlebar mirrors often have such joints. Currently, I rubberband a flashlight to the back of my mirror at night. The mirror joint has enough strength to hold the additional weight of the light and yet lets me adjust it just by pushing. No tools required. I've been doing this for a while so I could continue but it takes some attention - rubber bands only last a few days in the sun so I have to check them before each ride, and strapping it on is a bit of a nuisance. I'd prefer something that I could just snap on/off. Or maybe I just need to find some kind of "better rubberband" that is more reliable and stands up to weather? (I've looked for that too without success. Velcro won't work - it has to have some stretch because the mirror doesn't mate perfectly with the flashlight.)

Please don't suggest a headlamp. (I avoid headlamps. I've tried them. I regularly ride/run with others and they are frequently blinding me and each other, etc.)


texts: Should/can I return a new bike that seems too big?

texts:
First off, this is my first road bike. I did quite a bit of researching and read lots and lots of guides/tips on how to choose the bike you want and all of that. The problem is that you can't really "feel" the bike on a 5-6m test ride.

So, here's what happened: I test rode a Trek Domane 2.0, size 58, and then later test rode a Domane 2.0, size 60. As they come from factory, the 60 felt better but after a 11 mile ride today (I got the bike yesterday), I'm starting to feel like it may be too big for me. For example, standing over the frame, it actually presses against my body.

Looking back, I find it weird that the bike shop that I went to didn't check for that. What I'm left wondering is if they'd exchange the bike after today's ride. Honestly, one can't really feel the fit on a ride around the block and before any adjustments. I bought the bike at that shop kind of expecting a fit, but they never did anything, which got me a bit disappointed.

The question is two-parted:

Is the fact that I can't stand over the frame comfortably a deal breaker?
Is an exchange to be expected from a bike shop after a (short) ride?


texts: Why have my crank arms started corroding?

texts:
I have a set of Rotor 3D cranks and I've just noticed that the non-drive-side crank arm is corroding at the end and around the pedal bore, beneath the surface finish.  The drive-side arm is fine.

I would estimate that these cranks have done around 100000 km in their lifetime.  Is it normal that they should start corroding like this?

I'm concerned that this pedal is never going to come out...


texts: Hey I was wondering how you would change a chainset from 2x11 to 3x11 on a Carrera Fury (SRAM components) Thanks


texts: 2003 Klein Attitude comp bottom bracket change type

texts:
I have a 2003 Klein Attitude Comp, and I want to put a crankset I have on it.  However, the crankset is square taper and the current bb is not.  Does anyone know what size square taper bb can go in this model, if at all?

I found this picture on google search.  Note that the 2003 model is candy apple red.


texts: What do I do after a tubeless tire has been punctured and self-sealed?

texts:
I picked up a puncture in my rear tire while out on my road bike. Quite a bit of sealant leaked out, but eventually the hole fixed itself with plenty of air pressure left in the tire to ride home.

I'm not sure how I should follow up on the puncture. Can I consider it "fixed" and reinflate the tire to ~100psi? Do I have to remove the tire and properly fix the puncture with a rubber patch? How can I tell whether I'm low on liquid sealant inside the tire, and if I should replace it?


texts:
Any one have any tips for riding in mud, and lots of it? I am talking about mountain biking.

I am doing a race on Sunday, and it rained all week, and there's a chance of rain during the contest as well.


texts: Has anyone experienced poor traction and side sliding using these Kevlar type tyres. My front wheel has slid sideways and caused me to come of the bike on three occasions now since I had them fitted. Would be grateful for your response. Thanks Tim


texts:
I have a 9s rear derailleur in a 10s transmission. It works fine, but I have concerns about if this configuration could produce problems in the long term.

I know the 10s chain is narrow compared the 9s chain, but it fits properly in the wheels of the rear derailleur. But maybe I'm not taking into consideration other aspects.


texts: What parts of 12-speed drivetrains are compatible between brands?

texts:
Now that Shimano has released their own 12-speed MTB drivetrains (SLX and XT), I have the following question:

What parts of these drivetrains are compatible between Shimano and SRAM?

I would guess that chain, chainring and/or cassette (assuming wheels with the respective freehubs) would work with the rest of the drivetrain being made by the other brand while combining shifter and rear mech from different brands wouldn't work.

Is this correct?


texts: Bottom bracket maintenance - is it a thing?

texts:
Previously when I've had annoying noises from my bottom bracket I've simply discarded it and bought a (cheap) new one.  But the last time I replaced it I got a great offer and splashed out a little bit on a Hope Road Ceramic Bottom Bracket.  A couple of years on (but only 2,000 miles later) I'm getting noises out of it when I pedal.  Due to injury it has sat around for a long time while I recuperated.  I'm trying to avoid replacing the bottom bracket if I can.

I don't need help diagnosing the source of the noise.  Please assume my diagnosis is correct that the noise is from the bottom bracket - ball bearings or any other part of it including it's fitting to the frame

What I'm trying to understand is:

Is there some maintenance (clean and re-grease?) that I should have been doing but missed? Beyond cleaning it externally I've done nothing to the BB
Does the fact that it's ceramic make a difference to question 1?
Are the ball bearings generally a sealed unit or is it possible to open, clean and re-grease them?

My "bike mechanic" skills are self taught since I was a teenager.  Naturally there's things I find I should have been servicing all along or monitoring but simply never knew I had to (for example rim-wear).


texts: It is a 1986 or 1987 stump jumper sport, serial number DS636887. I have the original saddle and all equipment as when purchased. Only the tires are not original.


texts: Is the 30 teeth chainring on Campagnolo Mirage 52/42/30 crankset replaceable?

texts:
I have new (for me) 2008 Orbea Onix TDi with existing 50/34 front crankset.
My shifter is 3 steps - to switch from 1st to 2nd I have to click twice.
All parts are Campagnolo Mirage.

Climbing the hills on it for me is too hard - I'm 230lbs. I've just ordered a new 52/42/30 Campagnolo Mirage crankset. But I have a feeling that 30 teeth still won't be enough.

Can I replace the 30 tooth chainring with let's say 26 to make climbing easier?
And if yes, which one would you recommend?

Thank you.


texts:
My freewheel tarted slipping this week. It slips most from a stop with no pressure snapping to significant pressure on the pedals. Slipping may be the wrong term as it really isn't engaging. Once it "hooks up" and pressure is continuously applied there is no slippage.

Bike is a 3 years old, kona humu-humu, and used for daily commutes in Montana. Stored in an unheated shed at night, left out in the elements during work M-F 9-6, a couple times a month year round while out on the town.

Past couple months I've been hearing a banging sound out of the rear cog which I assumed was the chain slipping on the cog, but now I'm wondering if it the ratcheting mechanism in the freewheel.

Recent weather included a large snow storm which caked the bike in snow/ice followed by a week of sub 0F weather, so the snow stayed caked on. Two days ago riding it home after dark in like roughly -20F temps the issue first occurred. Thinking it was a chain slippage and being very intermittent I brought it inside got the bike warmed up/dry tighted the chain and did some other routine maintenance.

Next day, same issue occurs but easier to recreate while off the bike and I can see the chain is fine and the freewheel just isn't hooking up.

I have a couple theories but not how likely each is. I'm also not sure how serviceable the freewheel is.

Theories:
- Water worked it's way into the freewheel and is now frozen inside the freewheel. This is changing how the moving parts operate.
- The banging sound was the freewheel and is a sign of or the cause of major wear. The mechanism providing traction now has a loose fit and the extreme low temperatures are enough to further loosen the connection to unusable.
- It's too cold for the springs/oil in the mechanism to perform adequately for normal usage
- Something else?

I need to swing by the local shop anyways as I'm swapping out some parts shortly, but if there are some simple fix ideas I'd love to hear them.

EDIT: Freehub not freewheel + Single speed cog.


texts: Can I use the drive train of another bike?

texts:
I was gifted an old bike that I've decided I want to fix up and use. I believe it's a hybrid, not quite road and not quite mountain bike. It's 21 speed and it's an Apollo quick cross (I can't find anything about it on the web, have emailed the manufacturer asking for the manual).

Despite knowing nothing about bike maintenance I can tell the drive train is in fairly desperate need of replacing (missing and worn teeth on the chain set). The idea I have is finding a donor bike and borrowing its drive train. Is this possible and what should I be looking for in a suitable donor bike?


texts: what's the reason for different front and rear tire sizes on a XC MTB?

texts:
i just received my Moots Mooto X RSL, which i had previously ordered--it's a titanium 29" hardtail, spec'd for XC racing (eg, an upright geometry w/ 100 mm travel on ff, fairly high head angle & seat angle)

Moots (AFAIK) only builds to-order but i know next to nothing about mtb wheels and tires so i deferred to their default spec for both

i just picked up the next bike from the dealer yesterday and the front has a 2.4" wheel; the rear a 2.2"

is this common on mtb builds? Or at least for mtb XC racing builds?

what is the reasoning behind this practice (i assume the wider wheel in front is critical)?


texts: Dangers of commuting outside town to work

texts:
I live in the Canary Islands, more concretely, in Gran Canaria. Our towns are pretty spread on the island, and it is really common to live in one town and working in the capital, which on average is approximately 20 minutes by car.

Some of my coworkers come to work by bicycle, they live somewhere near. The one that lives furthest from the office has to make a 30m ride in his bicycle before he arrives at the office.

I was thinking about this idea, the difference is that I should make a 1h 30m trip (estimated by Google Maps): Which is this one: Google maps link

It involves roads without road shoulders and some parts with a cliff on the right (it has a crash barrier).

Being a beginner in long trips (actually never made one that took more than 30 minutes) I don't know if this one is too dangerous for taking it two/three times a week (I work on semi-remote).


texts: Will 26 x 2.0 tire fit on bicycle with 26 x 2.125 size tire

texts:
I am planning to purchase Maxxis Larsen TT 26 x 2.0 tire for my Firefox Cyclone D 26 bicycle.

My bicycle currently has 26 x 2.125 tire. Just wanted to know if the above Maxxis tire will fit or not.


texts: Using 57-559 (26x2.25) tire instead of 54-559 (26x2.1) on a mountain bike?

texts: I have a ZAC 79 front rim with a Deore HB-M530. I just found out I've got a flat tire (after thinking last week "Hmmm, probably I should get a new tire soon..." :D). I'm going to buy the Schwalbe Smart Sam Plus HS 476. However one thing struck me - I actually have one Smart Sam Plus on my rear wheel and it's of size 54-559 (26x2.1) while actually one the front I have one 54-559 (26x1.95) no-name tire that I've taken from a previous bicycle of mine. :D Both fit fine so I was wondering what the actual margin is when it comes to picking tires and whether I should by a 26x2.25 one for my rim. Speed gain (thinner tire better than fatter tire) is not such an issue here (I hope :D). I'm using my mountain bike on paved roads mostly though sometimes I also ride through woods (nothing too rocky) etc. and that's why I picked these tires.


texts: What is the stem/seatpost thing on the Bicymple?

texts:
Anybody know if that's a pre-existing part that's been repurposed or if it's something that they've had custom fabricated?

There are more pictures on their kickstarter page.


texts: Regulations regarding Braking redundancy on single speed bikes.

texts:
Recently there have been an increase in the number of fixed gear bikes in my (U.S.) city.  Increasingly they tend to have one or zero brake levers, justified by their ability to stop with pedal power alone.

Even more recently, I've noticed even larger numbers of single speed (non-fixed gear) bikes  --- outnumbering the fixed gear bikes.  And they often have only a single brake lever (for simplicity or fashion?).

I understand the justification for having only a single brake on the fixed gear bikes because their braking redundancy lies within the drivetrain.

I do not understand why this is acceptable on single speed bikes.  Is there something I am missing or is that indeed ridiculously dangerous?

Are manufacturers allowed to sell bicycles with non-redundant brakes?  Is this regulated in the U.S. or anywhere else? This seems like a recipe for disaster (having experienced brake failure on my bike).


texts:
Sometimes I use bike for a week long trip camping along, doing maybe 200km per day riding on asphalt road. In the end, my feet have bad smell, which is not super strange or concerning, but it does seem a bit unhygienical to do so, especially if I don't have an opportunity to take a shower, I have a feeling I might get some feet fungus.

I tried riding barefoot once for short time and everything went well. I don't have sensitive feet and my pedals are mostly flat, so it's not a pain to pedal.

Now, I've almost never seen anybody else doing it so there must be a downside or danger to it? Does anyone have any experience on this?


texts: max weight that the shimano Rs400 can carry ?

texts: I am intending to buy the shimano RS400 pair of wheels to replace my 20 spokes wheels. I intend to use them for touring and commuting when an expected heavy luggage.  Was wondering the maximum weight that these pair of wheels can handle. and how to know in general ?.


texts:
Recently my interest was piqued with a very long tour: http://tourdivide.org/

Being time constrained by an 8 hour job, how does one train for a ride that will require 160 kilometers (100 miles) per day for 30 days?


texts: Upgrading 8 speed Shimano 105 to 11 Speed Shimano 105

texts:
I'm thinking about going to from 8 speed Shimano 105 to 11 speed Shimano 105-5800.

I know I'll definitely have to change my cassette, chain, rear derailleur and my right shifter.  But what about my crankset?  My current chain is 3/32 inches wide and my new chain would have to be narrower so what if it doesn't fit on my crankset?  Is that possible?


texts: I have replaced three flats on my new bike and found each time a tear or hole at the base of the air valve. What can cause this.


texts: Carbon steerer tube scratch (inside the tube) - how bad is it?

texts:
Today I looked into my steerer tube and saw this:

Since Im new to carbon frame, I cannot decide if this is a serious problem which has to be fixed asap, or just a minor scratch on the surface. It dosent look cracked, not deep, probably caused by my expander plug...
Thanks for your toughts, maybe some of you had the same issue
Best


texts: How fast can you go over speed breakers?

texts:
so I've only recently started biking. I have a hybrid, Montra Trance Pro.

So I went pretty fast over a few speed breakers, and that made me wonder, exactly how fast can I go over a bump? The rear derailleur especially seems really vulnerable to me. Am I just overthinking this, or should I slow down?

On my old gearless cycle, I wouldn't have thought twice over going fast over a speed breaker (not fast enough to lose control), but this new bike has me a bit worried.


texts:
I cleaned up my bike yesterday after a particularly wet and muddy week, wiped the oil off the chain, applied a fresh batch, took it for a spin and found no issues whatever with the shifting (I go through all the front and rear cogs to make sure the oil is distributed evenly).

This morning, however, on my way to work, shifting was a complete nightmare, it felt like either the chain was skipping or the derailleur was ghost-shifting (likely the latter). The only thing I could put it down to was the dense fog and the permeating humidity. Is that possible? Could it have somehow affected the oil on the chain?


texts:
I have seen other questions on this forum where preventive measures against salt water on bike chain are discussed. I have seen them in context to rusting.

What I want to ask is that, rusting will be caused by water, then what is so special about salt water ? What effect does salt specifically have on bike chains ?


texts: stop air leak when disconnecting inflator from presta valve

texts: Presta novice question. When removing the adaptor and quickly screwing the inside core down, air escapes. I've changed from a short Zefal pump to using a compressor. The tire says 50-60 PSI, but by the time it is disconnected I lose a lot of air. Do I go with the tire PSI or presta recs which are like 80-100? Thanks!


texts:
I'm stocking tubes that I found in discount. One of my friends said that tubes get old over time. Do Butyl tubes do this?  If it is true, what are storage tips for stocking them?
And they came packed with a powder-like solution, how does this work?


texts: Use of Shimano long-reach calipers with "New Super SLR" brake levers/shifters

texts:
So my bike has Shimano Tiagra ST-4600/4603 brifters (it's a triple) but is fitted with long-drop BR-R451 calipers. In theory, these should be incompatible because of the change in cable pull ratio, which Shimano seem to call "New Super SLR" that happened in the 4500->4600 / 5600->5700 etc. transition.

However, I have found conflicting sources as to whether this is OK, including the Shimano compatibility chart at hosted at Celebrazio which firmly says "No!" (although if you're using the flat-bar lever it's OK?); whereas the Shimano Line-Up chart seems to think it's all right to use as an alternative to the short-reach in-series caliper. Also, a previous edition of the compatibility chart says that mixing the older brakes with newer levers is permissible.

I presume this is the same situation as using the short-reach brakes from a previous series of the groupset with the newer levers, in which case is there any solid advice about making the setup work?


texts: Remove visible thorns etc from tyres equipped with inner tubes with sealant liquid?

texts: Running with inner tubes equipped with sealant liquid, should we remove visible thorns etc or not?


texts:
Can regular bike forks be modified to allow front drivetrain setup?

Some bikes have front drivetrains instead rear drivetrains. The problem is that bike stores don't seem to carry forks that have a derailleur hanger. Forks don't always outlast the bike and custom building another fork is likely very expensive unless it's mass produced.

It's possible that you want or need a different style of fork. One might prefer metal instead of carbon fiber for safety and a larger room for errors, one might need a different style for panniers and fenders for touring and commuting purposes, one might need a different shape for fork lights or cameras, one might prefer mounting holes for a disc brake caliper, you nane it.

Here are some bikes that have a front drivetrain:

Can you widen a steel fork from 100mm to 130mm to accommodate 8 through 10 speed hubs using the cold set method? 30mm of widening sounds quite large. It's almost three sizes up. I've heard of 10mm. What are the risks? Once you widen it, how do you install the derailleur? Can you tap a custom shaped steel bar and use it as a derailleur hanger?

You can find standard spacings for hubs and seatstays here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html


texts: Why is my big chainring is so scratched form the inside?

texts:
I have noticed a lot of scraping on the inside of my Trushift 44T plate. Is it just a function of distance, time and color or is it a clue that something is not working properly? The bike was bought used.

Here is my chainring (bottom) and another from my buddy's bike. Mine did more km so it is not a perfect comparison but still:


texts: Can I use adapter to adjust Q-Factor like curved cranks?

texts: So I just picked up an FSA power meter that is 386 EVO compatible and I replaced my FSA crank , but then realized that my original  FSA crank is curved and the power meter crank is straight so it hits rear chainstay.. Is there any adapter or spacer I can use to have it clear the chain or should i just get get curved cranks.


texts: Can I swap down to a different number of teeth on a chainring

texts: I currently have a single speed front chainring setup with 52 teeth. I can't find a suitable replacement for my chainring so I am wondering if it is possible to get a chainring with a different  number of teeth, e.g. 48 teeth.


texts: How to straighten a bent derailleur hanger?

texts:
I've bent (again) my derailleur hanger. It's a replaceable hanger but for this summer I can't get an original one and I know that the non-original one I can get is made in a harder material and could possibly damage the frame.

So I'm left with the choice of straightening this light aluminium alloy thing. How do I do that without breaking/weakening it?


texts: Advice for buying a new crankset for my bike

texts:
Long story short: I recently bought a second-hand bike (good condition), but the guy who sold it to me screwed the pedals in the wrong sides. After two months of riding, the thread on the inside of the crank arms (where it connects to the pedals) is completely stripped away, and can't hold the pedals in place. My understanding is that I have to replace my whole crankset, but I'm at a loss as to which one I should buy.

The crankset I currently have is the Shimano FC-2203, my derailleur is the Shimano FD-R443, and the bottom bracket is a Shimano BB-UN25. (Specs available online, sorry I can't link them).

I can't seem to find a Shimano FC-2203 crankset online, so I assume they are no longer produced. Am I correct in thinking I'd need to buy a new crankset with the following specs? Which are important and which are not?

Crank length of 170-175mm (the best is 170mm based on my height, but I'm currently riding a 175mm with no issue, so any number in that range should be fine).
Triple crankset for a road bike (my current chainrings are 52-42-30, so something close to that is ideal).
No more than 22 teeth diff. between top and bottom chainrings, and no less than 10 between the top and intermediate (derailleur requirements).
Compatible with my 68mm, square-tapered bottom bracket.
Compatible with an 8-speed chain and 9/16" pedals.
Chainline of 45mm (or close) to match the derailleur.
Spindle length of 113mm (or close) to match what I've currently got.
Are there any other specs I should be worried about? Let me know if more information is needed.

The cranksets I've currently found are:

Shimano Tourney 7/8 Speed TX801. This looks close, but it appears to suit a spindle length of 123mm and a chainline of 50mm. Am I right in thinking this won't fit with my current setup, and could grate against the frame?

Shimano M131. This appears to use a shorter spindle than what I have, so could that also be an issue?

Shimano Tourney FC-A073. Looking through the Shimano specifications list, this appears to be my best bet. It meets all the specifications above, so will this fit my bike properly?

Sorry about the long and confusing question, but I just want to know whether I'm on the right track to finding a replacement crankset, and what I need to look out for when buying.

Thanks so much for the help.


texts: Is it worth wearing a headlamp when cycling as well as having a bar mounted light?

texts:
Most bike lights seem to be the bar / seatpost mounted variety. Is it worth also having a headlamp for riding?

I go cycle touring, ride in the city and do mountain bike xc trail riding.

I've got a budget enough to buy something decent.


texts: Broken fork and front wheel after head-on crash, need to replace headset?

texts:
Crashed out a couple of months ago, broke my front wheel, fork, and left collarbone. The crash busted my fork pretty bad, I can't even turn the front wheel now without it getting stuck on the frame. Will I need to replace the headset as well? As much as the front wheel permits, it seems to turn smooth, with no noise or resistance. Thank you.

UPD: Ended up replacing the headset, the old one had a little resistance as the wheel passed the center. The repair guys said that it was good as new and probably just needed a new fork that's not bent to hell. However, my old headset was loose ball bearing and the new one is on sealed bearings, so I don't regret replacing it.


texts: Claris ST-2300 shift/brake units compatible with V-brakes?

texts:
I have a Giant hybrid (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/cross-city-2) with Shimano Altus (3x8) with Tektro mini V-brakes.

I want to replace the flat bars with drops, which means I have to change the brifters. Claris (ST-2300) looks like it should work for the rear derailleur (8 speed road/MTB is compatible).

The front derailleur is a Tourney TY710. If I want to keep the triple chainring, I believe I will have to change that derailleur? is that correct?

Are v-brakes compatible with ST-2300 shifter (or similar)? This Shimano document seems to say no, in which case what are my options to get a drop handlebar onto the bike.


texts:
I'm a biking amateur, but I've been wanting to upgrade and get more serious.  Just recently, I was gifted a pretty new bike and I'm wanting to figure out how BSO it is so I can either upgrade it or get rid of it get a new, nicer bike.

What should I check to tell how much of this bike is cheap BSO material and how much will last?

I'd really like a part-by-part list so I can replace them or decide if it's not worth it.


texts: Shimano Nexus 8 internal hub skip/clacking noise when under torque

texts:
Hello fellow cycling enthusiasts.
Intro
I have bought, just 2 months ago, a new Cube Hyde Pro 2020 bicycle with belt drive (Gates, rear cassette out of metal, CDC with 22 teeth) Shimano Nexus 8 internal hub (model SG-C6001-8D). I mostly ride in the city and sometimes for fitness purposes.
Bicycle link with specs: cube.eu
Problem
Overall I am happy with the bike. It rides quiet and comfortable but I have noticed that under high torque situations like short steep inclines or fast take offs a single sharp and unpleasant clunking noise can be heard from the gear hub. This happens in all the gears. I have tried to catch this noise on camera and took a video of it on my daily commute on a short steep incline and gearbox in 1st gear: Youtube video
What I tried

First I made sure that the tension on the gear shifting cable was correct and that 2 yellow marks on the hub line up when the 4th gear is selected (see the picture)

Second step was that I checked the belt tension with the Gates frequency measurement app on the phone and it shows ~35HZ tension which is within the range recommended by the manufacturer

3rd step was research and it seems that few other users have noticed such behaviour even on this website. I actually found 2 threads with similar problem but with no clear solution:

The crank arm slips when pressing hard on pedals with Shimano Nexus

How to prevent Alfine 8 from “skipping”/"slipping under load?

I would greatly appreciate any help or input from you. Even if you don't have the solution but have observed the same behaviour please reach out and maybe we can find the solution together.
Thanks!


texts: Does anyone know if SRAM makes a 9 speed compatible shifter for dropbars? What's the best option for shifter/derailleurs for a 2x9 cross bike?


texts: Asymmetric torque recommendation for bottom nut on damper side vs air side on a RockShox fork

texts:
I was doing lower leg service on my Recon Race solo air fork for the first time. According to the user manual from 2009 that came with the fork, bottom bolt (damper side) should be tightened with 6.8 Nm, whereas the bottom nut (air side) with only 5.1 Nm.

I had tightened the nuts to ca. 6.5 Nm and 5.0 Nm, respectively, but the air side nut was leaking oil afterwards (despite a new crush washer). Then I tightened the air side nut to ca 6.5 Nm (just like the damper side bolt) and the leak was gone. I am only worried that by solving one problem I might have created another one that will manifest itself later.

Is there a reason for this asymmetry in recommended torques for the bottom nuts in RockShox forks (Fox doesn't seem to differentiate between air/damper side bottom nut torque)? Have I done damage to my fork by tightening the air side nut to the same torque as the damper side bolt?


texts: Front derailleur wont shift to small gear

texts:
I have removed the cable and loosened the range adjustment screws to take them out of the picture.
Spring on front derailleur now pushes the cage all way to left. Looks correct so chain should move to smallest gear. But just stays on middle gear and rubs cage.  Won't hop.
Nothing is jamming the cage from moving inward; it is at max inward and lined up with inner gear. Its not bent nor mounted too high. Everything looks correct.
Any ideas?


texts: How to proceed when pedestrians occupy the dedicated bike path?

texts:
I go to work every day on my bike. In my town there are only few bike roads but luckily one is about half of my way to job, but a lot of pedestrians believe they are bikes and occupy the bike path. At this point there are several scenarios. Sometimes they hear/see me and move away, this is not ok because they don't have the right to be there in first place, but it looks like they understand that.
But there are other cases when people ignore me or even try to get run over.
Those scenarios are really scary for me. I usually just avoid them which is actually make me the offender because I have to invade the sidewalk.
Or like this morning: a woman was on my side of the road and was completely ignoring my bell, I could not pass her on her left side as there were another bike coming, and just when I was passing her for some reason she thought that it will be the perfect moment to move away from the bike path. Lucky for her she saw me and just end up with a scare.
Should I lecture people about how ignoring roads can be unhealthy? Should I pass them at full speed leaving a nice scare?
A bike + driver hitting someone it is a few broken bones at best. How should I treat a pedestrian completely ignoring bike path, bikes and bikers, or even trying to cross my path?
One more thing, bike paths are not optional if there is one; if you are on  a bike you must use the bike path.
Edit: I live in Spain. Here each town hall writes their own rules for bikes use in their territory. In mine, pedestrians can´t remain on a bike path. Bike riders also are enforced to ride on a bike path if there is one.


texts:
Top-notch mountain trekking shoes are advertised as having Vibram soles. They are supposed to be durable and have superior traction on wet stones, mud etcsetra.

This is what we want from na mtb tire, right? Then why no vibram tires?


texts: Excepting the hubs, are the front and back wheel in OEM road bikes or in Road Bike wheelsets manufactured differently?

texts: Essentially I am wondering if wheelsets are manufactured differently for the front than the back wheels. I assume only the hubs and spoke holes?


texts: Derailleur does not match up with chain after tube replacement

texts:
I have been recently replacing rear inner tube on my bike, since then I was not able to fix the
wheel back in.

It makes unusual clicking sounds when backpedaling and one side of the chain gets loose. Upon further inspection I think the problem is that the chain does not properly fit into the rear cogwheels, as if the chain got longer while replacing the wheel?

Also, if I shift to the smallest cogwheel on rear derailleur, the part with two small wheels gets collapsed as if there was not enough tension making in practically impossible to function.

As I said, the bike was working perfectly. I only took out the rear wheel, replaced inner tube and put the wheel back in.

Here is a video of me trying to backpedal. Also notice how the part of the derailleur is wobbling - it is because the chain seems not to fit in the teeth and causes resistance.


texts: My new cruiser bike has a twist shifter on the straight handlebar.  Why is there more space on the dial between the numbers 6 & 7?  The space between every other number is the same, except between the 6 & 7.  I'm a little OCD.


texts: why can't you use park tool shift cable cutter to cut hydraulic cable

texts:
I was going to use my parktool cable cutter on the hydraulic cable for my reverb.
 I would potentially service my hydraulic shimano disc brakes cables if I ever need to. But another thread has said you shouldn't. if it can cut metal why not hydraulic cable


texts: I was wondering if I could easily install a quick release skewer on my Kent 700c Mens roadtech bike that I got from Walmart. If not what would i need to do in order to do so.


texts: Where should I prefer and avoid cartridge bearings in a bicycle?

texts:
All bicycle bearings, hubs, bottom bracket and headsets used to be cup and cone
bearings. However, recently there has been a trend to replace these with
cartridge bearings in new parts.
Is this a good path?
What benefits and drawbacks do cartridge bearings have? Where should they be
preferred and where should they be avoided in a bicycle?


texts: How do you remember which rack you have left your bike in?

texts:
I have more than once had to spend time looking for my bike at the station, what’s your method to remember the rack you put it in?

Do any town have a system of numbering or labelling the bike racks so it is easy to find your bike?


texts:
Does a social network exists for bicycle users?

I'm working on a website that caters bikers who want to discover some parts of France, and I'd like to allow bikers to share their experience. I could use FB, but some other soc net are maybe more relevant.

What would a biker do?


texts: dropper post not working at freezing temperatures

texts:
Over the past winters I noticed that my dropper post (rockshox reverb) stops working around 0°C (32°F). I usually manage to lower it one last time but then it doesn't rise anymore upon pushing the button (I ensured several times I'm pushing all the way down and tried keeping it pushed for a minute). Once after the ride back inside, it starts working again.

Is that a known feature?
Any suggestions for mitigation?


texts:
I recently bought a bike (never rode one real one before, only ever used the gym ones) and became quite comfortable with it so I ride it everyday around my city.

Here's the thing, I'm a 19 year old girl (if that's relevant) and I exercise almost daily (plus the cycling) so my leg muscles are fairly strong, but my average cycling speed never got over 8 km/h, I was wondering why? Does the bike use muscles I usually wouldn't train?

My city is uphill/downhill almost no flat terrain, but when I looked up even average cycling speed for uphill it was 12 km/h, am I doing something wrong?


texts:
I got into an accident where my handlebars got bent. They are very firm and do not seem to budge with force, but I'm a small guy. Can they be fixed? Can I do it myself? What tools would I need? How much would it cost for someone else to do it? Is this considered major damage, or something minor?

Additionally, how difficult would it be to fix these scratches/marks?

Damaged Handlebar

Undamaged Handlebar

Marks/Scratches


texts:
I have an old 27" road bike in a long, lazy and cheapish process of restoration. I'd like to put 28" wheels on, which requires 4mm longer brake reach. The bicycle used to have fenders and the existing 27" rim is already a bit far from the fork crown (and from the caliper bolt).

I had an idea to try to deepen the fork dropout in order to get the wheel closer to the crown, there seems to be enough space to do that, and still keep enough to get the axle bolt tightened.

Is there any reason I shouldn't do that?


texts: Press fit bottom bracket causing bearings to bind

texts:
I have a carbon Cannondale mountain bike with what appears to be a PF30 or PF30A bottom bracket: two 6806 bearings pressed into cups, which are pressed in turn into the frame.

With the bearings and cups still in the frame, the NDS bearing feels slightly gritty and the DS bearing feels very gritty with high initial friction. So I'm thinking I need to replace one or both.

Except when I pull the DS bearing (comes out with the cup), it feels fine. Maybe 90% of ideal, no obvious grit even under pressure. Press the cup and bearing back into frame, though, and then it feels terrible again.

I assuming this is a frame tolerance issue: it's squeezing the bearing too much. If so, then replacing the bearing won't get me anywhere.

Does this sound like the right conclusion? The frame is still under the factory warranty.


texts: Reducing saddle bounce when increasing cadence

texts:
Trying up my cadence, but noticing a fair bit of saddle bounce.

Few things that could be contributing.

I use toeclips over cleats
saddle height (thou I'm at the sweet spot of full leg extension without strain)

Is there any techniques/exercises to reduce this or am I simply trying to increase my cadence too fast too soon?


texts: How would you recommend securing a pannier rack on a bike without braze-ons?

texts:
My bike has lugs for mudguards/rack down by the rear drop-outs, but not in the usual places at the top of the seat-stays.

My two options seem to be:

use P-clips around the seat-stays
fashion a single bracket extending from the centre of the rack to the bolt-hole on the rear brake bridge

The first option seems easier and less fussy, but perhaps there's another way.


texts: Shimano SL-RS47 SIS handlebar shifter reassembly

texts: How do I reassemble the Shimano SL-RS47-7 SIS left shifter on the handlebar after it became separated after an accident? The shifter became separated and I could only get it into first gear. It does move the derailer but it doesn't have any stops, therefore, springs back to first.


texts:
My chain broke and in a moment of silliness (I was cold wet and slightly annoyed)  I threw the broken one away before thinking about measuring the new one.

Is there a guide to getting the chain length/tension correct ?

It's an 8 speed road bike (Shimano Sora back, double ring front)


texts: Have a 2007 Litespeed 10 spd with compact crankset (Shimano R700). The crankarm fixing bolt failed recently with unfortunate results to my backside. Am considering going with Ultegra 6750 compact crankset with Dura-Ace bottom bracket. Does anyone know if this is a compatible upgrade?


texts:
I have an Avanti Giro F2 (http://www.wiggle.co.uk/avanti-giro-f-2-2016/) currently. Im quite a heavy rider at 140kg and wanted to look at strong wheel replacements for the stocks.

I've seen some wheels with more than 36 spokes, but they are all for tandem bikes and was wondering if it was something I could use for a regular bike instead.

Is this possible? If not, what alternatives or specifics can i look at to build as strong a wheel as possible on road rims?


texts: Bike transport while touring - would a folding bike be better?

texts:
So I’m thinking of touring with my  lovely self made diamond bike with 28” wheels that I built from used bike parts. I love to ride on something that I built but I wanted to be able to tour a lot and I had some doubts when it came to traveling with a regular bike because of in-between modes of transport such as putting the bike  on plane, bus, train or car, but I’ve never actually done a prolonged tour via bike.
My question for any experienced tourer is: since in-between transport for me is a must, does a folding bike like Brompton really make a difference compared to maybe disassembling a diamond shaped bike every time you want to go on train/bus/hotel?


texts: Giant Rack-It Front Rack experience + bow vs. "bow-free" front racks

texts:
I'm looking at getting a front rack for my Kona Dewey 2015, which has two sets of mounting points on the forks. Specifically looking at getting the Giant Rack It front rack (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/giant-rack-it-front-rack-black) mainly because it's cheap (~£20) and looks okay. Does anyone have any experience with this particular rack?

Giant Rack It Front
Also, unsure what the benefits/disadvantages of bow vs. bow-free racks are (ie that arch of metal that connects the two sides of the rack) as seen in comparing the Tubus Tara vs Tubus Duo for instance. What is the benefit of the bow? Examples here: http://bikeshed.johnhoogstrate.nl/bicycle/rack/low_rider_comparison/

Tubus Tara, with bow

Tubus Duo, bow-free


texts: I've rounded out my top cap bolt by using a bad allen key. I've tried most solutions to removing stripped bolts but none of these have solved this issue. If I use a large adjustable wrench and place it on the top cap and turn will this loosen the bolt enough that I can remove it? Also, I would prefer not to drill as I have a carbon fork and may risk damage if the drill slips in the removal process.


texts: I’ve been given this bike since it wasn’t used. It has this thing attached to the frame on the rear wheel. Does anyone know what it is for?


texts:
What effect does cycling have on the bladder?

There is some information online:

Beginner Triathlete

  It is not uncommon to have genitourinary symptoms caused by prolonged contact with the bike seat.  These symptoms can include numbness and tingling, erectile dysfunction, hematuria (blood in the urine), overactive bladder, and even a transitory decrease in sperm production.

Livestrong

  Bicycle riding combines two key triggers of female urinary tract infections -- friction and bacteria. If you're a woman and an avid cyclist, understanding the mechanics of infection and taking the right precautions can minimize the chance you'll contract a UTI during during this physical activity. If you're a male cyclist, little if any evidence shows a direct link between bike riding and infections, but the mechanics of cycling can aggravate another condition with symptoms mimicking bladder infections.

Pacific Urology

  While the physical and mental health benefits of cycling are clear, there can be negative urological consequences.

(although that seems to be more about sperm count than anything else.)

Opinions seem to be contradicting, though. Is there anything conclusive?


texts: Raleigh Alpine 4.2 Shimano front wheel and rear brakes assembly

texts:
Hi I recently purchased a Raleigh Alpine 4.2 Shimano.

I am having a bit of difficulty with assembling the bike. Would anyone be able to assist with fitting the front wheel. I have included pictures of the right side of the front wheel the left side and the fork of the bike.

With regard to the brakes, it seems that the brake cable fits into a small hole on the silver lever on the left. I don't want to damage anything hence I don't want to apply force. The red and silver cable seems to large to fit into this hole. Does anyone know which part of the cable should be placed in this hole?

Thanks for any assistance let me know if any further info is required.


texts: Campagnolo Record C9 / Shimano CS-HG200-9 incompatibility

texts:
I drive cheap Shimano cassettes together with Campagnolo Record C9 chains. Yesterday I installed a new C9 and a CS-HG200-9. But the chain sort of slips over the sprockets, not unlike really worn parts, but exactly once per revolution and under all loads. Has anyone else experience with this particular setup?

This Campagnolo chain is not incompatible with Shimano 9 speed cassettes in general: I've gone through a couple of these, and had overall good experience. I cannot remember when I changed to the last pair, but it's been more than one year - that means at least 11000 km, much of it commuting under all weather conditions with lots of acceleration and partially steep, fast ascension + some tours over some of the Swiss alps passes.


texts: Rear derailleur shifting poorly, skipping gears

texts:
I've got a Shimano Sora on a 8-gear cassette, and have odd behavior and skipping, shifting under stress.

This started with a trip to the mechanic for a tune up which replaced the chain. I had some skips so I replaced the cassette. Still more skipping, a second trip to the mechanic didn't do much good.

I tried adjusting it myself and found some odd behavior:

Had to adjust the H screw way out, and it doesn't seem to reliably return to the same spot while pedaling (while working on it).
When I start at the smallest gear and shift to the largest, everything looks perfectly aligned.
When I start at the largest gear and shift to the smallest, the first click does almost nothing. The second goes to the 7th gear, third click to the 6th... and the seventh click skips from the 3rd gear to the first.
After all this, it doesn't seem to move back into the original position without a little push.

Any ideas on what's going wrong here? It seems like tension pulling the chain out is not sufficient, but I don't see any adjustment for that.

Am I barking up the wrong tree?


texts: I presently have a 3x7 speed crankset with a sealed cartridge bottom bracket on my touring bike and want to upgrade to a new Hollowtech II bottom bracket and crankset, specifically, the SHIMANO Claris 3x8-Speed Road Bicycle Crankset (FC-R2030). My shifters are 3x7 speed indexed, and I will stay with the 7 speed rear cassette. Is there any reason why the 3x8 front crankset would not work?


texts: Has SRAM discontinued i-light hub dynamo?

texts: I haven't been able to find SRAM hub dynamos lately. Has SRAM discontinued making of hub dynamos?


texts:
I have some knobby cross-specific tubular tires (Challenge Limus 33) mounted on a bike and I want to change them in exchange for slick tires for a period of riding primarily on the pavement.  While they are excellent tires, and have a lot of life left, the road noise is undesirable.

Can these tires be reused after they have been separated from the rim tape and/or glue?


texts: I have a 2005 KHS Flite, which I am fairly sure is a Reynolds 520 frame, that I absolutely love and have morphed through many variations (the original brakeless fixie, then both breaks free-wheel, then upright gentleman's bike that can still whip, and so on).  Someone tried to steel it or just decided to fuck with it, and bent the downtube/put a dent in the downtube.  It's not major enough to keep me from riding it -  at least I don't think it should, I could be wrong. I was wondering if there is anyway to work out the dent.  Maybe from the inside out somehow?  It's thumb print size into the metal, with little to no warping around the indentation.


texts: Converting an existing cyclocross bike to disc brakes

texts:
I have a bike (Surly Crosscheck) that is used for commuting and cyclocross. As it's a bit older and disc brakes were not legal for 'cross until recently, it has cantilever brakes for optimal mud clearance.

They also kind of suck for commuting in a rainy city with panniers.

I have been debating doing a conversion to discs for this bike, but I don't really know what I'd need to replace, so a list would be highly helpful, then I can price it out and decide whether or not I should just buy a new bike... Possibly I could also keep the cantilever on the rear and just go with a disc on the front for good stopping.

Presumably the wheels and front fork at the least would need to change. As would the brifters as those probably pull differently. What else would I need?


texts: I think this corrosion comes from sweat. How can this be removed?


texts: I recently bought a second hand Giant Upland SE and to be frank, it is my first bike with multiple gears. The bike functioned normally for the first day or two. I could use all the gears.  When the bike is stored indoors, the pedal and wheel work fine but once I take it out in the cold (anywhere from 0 to -30 degrees celsius), the pedals rotate freely and have no action on the wheel. Also I am not able use some gears on the rear wheel. Can anyone please help with an explanation and solution?


texts: I live in Virginia and built a wind mill using a bike wheel.  Do I need to remove the wheel so the cold weather won't destroy the bearings?


texts: If a slime tube hardens when exposed to air, why doesn't it harden when I pump it?


texts: Riding on a failing bottom bracket - what could possibly go wrong?

texts:
My BB is showing the first signs of being on the way out (a click when I drive either foot down hard; if I remove the chain there's a barely perceptible clicky feeling at the same crank position as the click).  It's not convenient to get it fixed in the near future.  The last time I wore one out, the ride was horribly notchy by the time I got it done, but I blamed the cassette/chain.

What's likely to happen if I keep riding on it?  I can tolerate a rough ride on this bike (I'm not doing much distance on it at the moment). But I don't want to damage anything else (this seems unlikely to me).  I also don't want a sudden failure, especially one that causes things to seize up.


texts: For a quick on the trail temporary fix can I use a tubeless tire plug on my tube tire? Just to get me back to my car? I'm an 84 year old new biker (electric) so forgive me if this is dumb question.


texts: I just changed the chain on my Cube Acid 2X11sp  mtb. I replaced the old chain with an exactly similar brand, model and length new chain (shimano). Is it NECESSARY to readjust and finetune the speed changing mechanisms (deraillers)?


texts:
I have a patch kit (from Bike Hand) and it includes:

Rubber solution

Metal rasp

Patches

Along with the aforementioned supplies there are two small rubber tubes, hollow, and about 1cm long.  What are these and how would one potentially use them with the patch kit?


texts: Can a Mamachari be fitted with an 11 speed 52-36T crankset and FD?

texts:
I would like to upgrade this bike with a better and faster crankset, 52-36T, but I'm confused if my planned setup will be compatible with the bike I have. I have consulted in our local bike shop and they said that a Dura-Ace crank would fit but the FD will have a hard time or impossible fitting considering the top tube design of the bike.

I'm not really sure if he saw my bottom bracket being really old. Might there be any modern bottom bracket to fit it at all?

Edit: Finally found an enlightening link
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1297/bicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility/


texts: Different hub brake behavior when standing still and when moving

texts:
I recently switched to a bike having hub (roller) brakes and hub dynamo, so I am pretty new at this kind of brakes.

I have noticed that if I pull the front brake lever when moving, the brake engages almost immediately, but if I pull the lever when I am standing still the lever goes almost freely until the end of its range before I feel some sort of resistance.

Is this a normal behavior for this type of brakes?


texts: Internal cable routing blocked on '80s steel frame. What are my options?

texts:
I have a new-to-me ~80's steel frame with a rear derailleur cable that is routed through the chainstay. There's a blockage close to the BB end, and I'm wondering what my options are?

My assumption is that it's mud/dirt/etc. due to where it is, the fact that I cannot blow air through at all, and what it sounds when I jab it with a coat hanger.

This frame means a lot to me, so I'm very keen to get it working if I can.

Edits:

The frame is a (I believe) 1981 Concorde Acquila.
The chainstay holds a bare inner cable.
And pictures added (more for Criggie, rather than solving the
issue, though if click through and zoom in on the second picture you
can see the exit-hole on the chainstay)


texts:
I have a bike (Cannondale Quick MX) I used frequently until last fall, when I got a driving license (not my first, well out of my teens) and a car to use.  The bike is 3 1/2 years old now.
Since the car ruined my life ;) I only ride occasionally.  Recently I got it out for the first time in a month or so :( and discovered the rear brake had no pressure -- the handle was loose and the calipers did not move.
I got a bleed kit a while back when I felt the pressure was low, and a litre of fluid, so I refilled it and it is now working normally.  While I was doing this, at one point when pumping the brake handle with the bleed valve closed (following instructions, doing this alternating with quickly opening the valve to let air bubbles out) the caliper1 popped out (I had removed the pads2).
I put it back and applied one of the plastic tools in the bleed kit (there's a bunch of these that aren't mentioned in the instructions) that clearly seemed intended to insert into the space where the pads go to hold the calipers in place, then at the end put the pads back.
However, the brake itself is slightly too tight -- not noticeable riding, but if you spin the wheel freely with the brake open, it stops just a bit prematurely because the disc lightly touches one of the pads, pictured below.

Notice the top pad is much more worn (that's not just a trick of the light), such that toward the neck of the clip it is down to the clip itself.
I guess I have to replace these, but do I also have to replace the brake? It's obviously been doing this for a while.  Have I put in too much oil (I don't really see how that is possible, but...)?  The handle is currently a bit soft (much softer than the other, identical one). Basically this reminds me of a sticky or misaligned V brake, but there doesn't seem to be anything I can tweak with this.  Reducing the pressure would make it unusable, and I don't even think it would help the actual problem.

Pretty sure that's what it's called anyway; I tried looking around for detailed diagrams of the brake but they did not label the caliper specifically.  Anyway, a nickel sized shallow piston that sits freely inside the brake.

One set of instructions online said to do this; the ones that came with the bleed kit just said to remove the cotter pin, which all by itself seemed pointless so I presumed "then remove the pads" was missing...


texts: Failure modes for suspension forks, air and coil

texts:
An air suspension fork on one of my bikes starts showing its age: noticeable play, scratches on stanchions etc. It has not become less smooth and does not leak air so far, however.

I am starting to wonder how safe it is to continue using it, and what will happen when it "fails".

Possible outcomes of a non-catastrophic suspension fork failure that I can imagine are:

All air leaks out and it compresses fully, becoming very short
All air leaks out and it expands fully, becoming at its full extension
Air air blows out, making stanchions loose in the legs
The fork just locks at random compression position.
Stanchions become so loose with so much play that it becomes noticeable at braking and steering.

What of these options are real, both for air forks and coil forks? Are there other failure scenarios resulting from a fork's old age but not a crash?


texts:
I picked up Ti bolts for my [brake] rotors, and am aware of TiPrep but wondered what other more commonly found (and likely cheaper) alternatives are there?

Scouring the 'Net, I've read about copper anti-seize...  One co-worker who does auto-moto stuff suggested zinc anti-seize?  Loctite in general doesn't appear to be recommended, though they do have a copper based product.


texts: Is it ok to hang the bike by the frame, if the bowden is on the bottom?

texts:
Related: there are plenty of Q&A's (both here and on other sides), according to which, apparently, it is ok to hang a bike by its wheel.
What I didn't find though is, if it is ok to hang the bike by the frame, if the bowden goes below the frame, thus the bowden cable and the frame would be pushed together. Could it e.g. cause the bowden to wear quicker? Or slightly misadjust the rear brake?
Especially if the bike hangs for longer periods, say up to six months.


texts: Normal MTB trigger shifters and hydraulic brake levers on a bullhorn handlebar

texts: Was wondering if mounting Altus shifters and hydraulic brake levers on the vertical sides of a bullhorn handlebar would work or would be possible? I tried holding one of my grips on my flat bar while standing besides my bike as to somewhat recreate the vertical orientation of the bullhorn bars and it seemed to me very possible and accessible. I can imagine my hand position and orientation being similar to as if I was holding or using an exaggerated version of old granny handlebars which can also use normal brake levers and shifters despite the almost vertical-like position of its ends. What are your takes on this? And do you think it will work?


texts: What effect does changing the stem length have on my bikes handling

texts:
I'm finding that when jumping my mountain bike seems to be very nose heavy no matter how far back my saddle is. What effect will moving to a shorter stem length have?

My bike, a Boardman FS-PRO came with a 100mm Richey stem. I think that moving to a shorter stem length will allow me, and my short arms, to sit further back on the bike and hopefully make steep dropoffs a bit easier to ride. I've heard that shorter stems make the steering quicker too. Will this make my bike unrideable?


texts:
I use a MTB from 1995 for commuting. I've just added a child's seat up back. So I need a front rack or basket mounted.

I found an old basket that I mounted temporarily.

What are my mounting options? I'm not super keen on using the wheel axle (as now) but if I want to use the fender mounts I must use some spacer there?

Would you recommend mounting it to the bars, crown or canti bosses at the top?

It would be great to be able to carry 10 kilograms (22 pounds) in the basket, so I can stop and shop groceries on my way home.

I wonder how the Wald 157 Giant basket is mounted? Seems to be mounted through the QR axle. That might be working?

All recommendations and tips are welcome!


texts: Front wheel shifting left on braking with new front shock and fender install

texts:
I have a specialized turbo electric bike and just had the shop put in a rock shox paragon front suspension.  They didn't have the rotor size adapter for the disc brakes so they swapped my 180mm rotor with a 160mm rotor.  They put my old fender on my new shock as well.

Riding it home I noticed that when I brake, there is a noticeable hard shift of the wheel left (to the disc brake side).  It's all the more noticeable because I can see it move in relation to the fender above it.  It looks like it's shifting 5-10mm.

Is this normal?  Is it an optical illusion and it's the fender that's moving and not the wheel?  Is the disc brake pulling the wheel over?  Did installing the fender cause it?  Is it caused by the replacement of the rotors?

I'm a bit at a loss to figure out if it's a problem and how to diagnose.  I suppose I can undo the fender and then do some other things one step at a time but I wonder if there's an easier way to diagnose other than taking the parts off one at a time.


texts: Is the 9-speed Sora crankset compatible with 105 11-speed chain?

texts:
I'm thinking of upgrading my bike, which has a Sora 9-speed system on it (50/34 chainset). The upgrade is for esthetic reasons - i simply like the look of the internal cable routing. That being said, it is not an absolutely essential upgrade, and if it costs too much I will not do it.

My plan is to buy the new Shimano 105 5800 11-speed cassette, shifters and chain. I understand that the 11-speed chain is thinner than a 9-speed. Does this mean that I also have to buy a new crankset to replace my 50/34 Shimano Compact FC-R345 Octalink?


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I recently bought a new bike. It is a Scott bike with disc brakes. The bike went in for it's service and now it has problems braking. As soon as I pull the brake leavers the front brakes makes a loud squeaking noise. The front brake disc is a blueish color from trying to brake.

The back brake works perfectly. I took it back to the people who serviced it, and they were unable to solve the problem. Do you know what the problem could bee and how to correct it?


texts: Usefulness of high-pressure/high-volume switch on a track pump

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Among the track pumps (floor pumps) on the market, I see one advertised with the following feature:

  foot-activated high-pressure/high-volume switch

I'm interpreting this to mean that the pump has two modes:

High pressure and low volume, suitable for pressures between 80psi and 160psi.
High volume and low pressure, suitable for pressures between atmospheric and 80psi.

Is this interpretation about right, and does this feature make it more attractive than other models for someone who'll use it mainly for road bike tires, but also occasionally for mountain bike tires?

I'm intrigued by how they achieve this, since a first guess of how to build it would involve changing the diameter of the tubular air compartment, not exactly something that can be obtained by a switch. But that's for another question (perhaps on some mechanical site).


texts: Upgrade compnents to fix "Everest" brand BSO/MTB

texts: so after a month of research,i've come to a conclusion that this might be an everest brand mountain bike.its a unified rear triangle and its frame is made out of steel.since i'm not gonna just let this bike stay one side collecting dust,with a budget of about maybe a 100 bucks,what could i possibly upgrade to make it a good ride? please just give me tips,any will do.and don't tell me that i should just trade for another frame


texts: What kind of bike should I get to accomodate me?

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I’m a plus sized female (about 135 kg, 295lb, 5'7") from NYC and I’m looking to get into bike riding again. I haven’t ridden a bike since I was about 12 years old and I loved it.

I’m looking to purchase a bike I can ride in central park or just about any park here in the city. I don’t know where to start. All I know is I don’t want to pay 700 dollars (531.68 pounds) for a bicycle at this time.

What should I do? Is it possible for a supportive bike? I’m concerned about tires and flats. I don't know much about bikes since it’s been so long but I’d appreciate all the advice you people can give me.


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I've recently changed the default 700x35 tires and 35mm Schrader inner tube to 700x25 slicks with 25mm Presta inner tubes.

However whilst fitting the new tire and inner tube, I noticed that the inner tube had about an inch or two of excess length to it. This mean I had to tuck it into the tire, doubled back on itself.

I've doubled checked the inner tube packaging and it's definitively for a 700 diameter rim.

I presumed that it would sort itself out when I pumped up the tires. Is this normal?