texts: Busted Dept store Mongoose Shifter - Scrap or Fix

texts:
My wife convinced me that we should buy bikes (2x$100.00) @ a dept store. I found a Mongoose (which I can remember used to be decent) and within 6mos I broke the bracket that holds the shifter in place (not sure on my lingo here).  It says it is Shimano, but I don't know if I would be better off trying to replace it on my own(I am a smart DIY guy but have no experience w/Bikes), taking it to a bike shop, or just looking for a used Trek hybrid on CL?
Please advise.


texts: My rear wheel keeps getting side to side wobble issues. Can it be too much pannier weight?

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It's now already the second time that the rear wheel has issues with side to side wobble and I would like to understand why this is happening.

The first time I had a bike mechanic to tune the true the wheel spokes but then it happened again.

I am not 100% sure but I have the feeling that both times it happened on occasions where I was carrying around 10-12 kilos in a single pannier (on the left side).

Mine is a mountain bike with a rear fitted pannier rack which can support up to 25 Kg of weight.

I know that carrying over 10 kilos on just one side is not ideal, but when I do so is only for a very short distance.

Anyway, I was wondering if that could in any way cause problems to the wheel spokes?


texts: Where can I find a Shimano cs50 stopper fixing bolt?

texts: Somehow I lost a single 'stopper fixing bolt' on my down tube cable stop. I have a set of Shimano sm-cs50 outer down tube cable stops, and I don't want to buy new ones because I only need one bolt. Does anyone know the exact name of the bolt, or where I might find a substitute for it?


texts:
I've bought this MTB second-hand a couple of years ago, the vendor told me the brand, but I can't remember. Does someone recognise this logo?
I haven't found any swiss bike brand starting with "p" with this logo.


texts: Looking for advice - cracked rear hub along bearing races - How to buy a new rear wheel?

texts:
TL;DR below

My bicycle is an old used Trek hybrid (1994?) that I got a few years back. When replacing the tires recently I discovered that my rear axle was significantly bent (not surprising for a freewheel bicycle), and upon removing the axle and bearings I discovered massive cracks all along the freewheel side of the rear hub. (see photos below)

I'm sure that the hub is toast - but where do I go from here? I could buy a hub and rebuild the wheel, but I am guessing that is a waste of money compared to a new wheel.

Where/how do I look for a replacement rear wheel? Rear dropout spacing seems to be about 138mm, rims are 700c and about 26mm wide. I have a 7-speed freewheel that seems fine, but I am wondering if it makes sense to just get a freehub and a new 7-speed cassette to avoid future bent axles. Currently have all Shimano drivetrain components, not sure what model.

I mostly do road riding and commuting, with occasional light gravel. Brakes are rim cantilever style.

imgur photo album

Thanks so much for the help!

TL;DR: Rear hub cracked - new wheel? How much, where to look?


texts:
I own a Cannondale Super Six 105 (Ultegra now) Carbon 2012 bike and I can't stop the wobble in the headset.  If I tighten down the top cap (with 6mm hex) I can get rid of the wobble (hands on the drops holding brakes - headset has a fair bit of play) but I cannot move the wheels freely with the handlebars.

I stripped it down, cleaned it and assembled it again but its still wobbly after tightening the inner 5mm allen key.

Do I need a new headset  ? It's KP044 I think.

The bearings move around nice and easy but the compression ring feels very rough to touch.

The bike is 4 years old, 30,000+km cycled on it, I'm not sure whats wrong -

(1) I didn't tighten properly
(2) headset needs replacement or
(3) bike is old and something wrong with frame.

Would a new KP044 fix it for me or could the bike be kaput ? Also if I cycle on (1-2 weeks) with a wobble will it do damage to the frame ?

Some pictures

I don't know if the pictures are much of a help but everything is there except a bit of a rough corner feel.


texts:
Last year I bought some Kreitler rollers and used them somewhat. The biggest problem I have is starting.

I have 4.5-Inch Kreitler Alloy Rollers with Killer Headwind Fan Drums.

Does anyone have a suggest on an easy way to start?


texts: Skinny 26" tires? Giveing a small fixie a “faster” look

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I'm a very short woman and, since I wanted a triangle-frame fixie, I used 26" tires and a 49cm frame so it would fit me perfectly. The trouble is my tires are the wider variety. I want to have the slim fixie look, so I want skinny tires, but I can't find them in 26" size.

Are there any solutions?

I mostly want the slim tires for cosmetic reasons. The current tires function perfectly. (Used to to be a messenger, now I just commute) so maybe there are some tires that just have a more "speedy" look to them?

When my bike looks nice I feel good about riding. So, I'm hoping someone can help.


texts: Is my rear cog wobble the fault of the axle, the hub, the bearings, or the wheel trueing?

texts:
Adjusting the rear derailleur on a Bicycle Shaped Object in a stand, I observed skipping gears when shifting from 6 to 5 (it skips to 4), 5 to 4 (it skips to 3), etc, but would snap in place correctly when going in the other direction.

Observing this, I then noticed that the cogset is wobbling. Maybe the hub is wobbling. And the rim is appearing to not be centered (visually, radius does not equal half-diameter) around the hub. Distance between brake pads seems fairly consistent for a BSO.

When spun softly, the wheel does not balance with the reflector down.

Is my rear wheel wobble the fault of the axle, the cogs, the bearings, or the wheel trueing? I suspect the skipping is ultimately a derailleur alignment issue, but I can't begin to work on that until I solve this.

Video of same:


texts: Should I multiply maximum tyre load by number of wheels to get maximum bike load?

texts: I bought a cheapo adult tricycle and looking closely at each tire there is stamped on it a maximum weight capacity of 175lbs. Do I multiply 175lbs x 3 for the max load it can carry or does this mean only a person weighing less than 175 lbs can safely operate this trike? Thank you very much!


texts:
I got a Kryptonite Messenger Mini+ with a rear wheel extender. Really great design except for one thing: there's no way to clip it to the frame. The clip that I have depends on fitting on the straight side of the U, which would make using the extender impossible.

Is there a convenient way to attach this to the frame?

Additional description: the issue is that in the picture above, the right hand side is straight, and can accommodate the standard aluminum clip that Kryptonite sells. However, the aluminum clip is rigid, and cannot turn around curves, meaning I cannot put in on the left, and slide it onto the right side. The right side is curved (how it's held into the lock) and the clip mount cannot fit onto the right hand side. However, if I attach it on the left, then U-extender cannot slide past the clip.


texts: Will grooves on seatpost cause rusting inside frame?

texts: My bike has grooves in the seatpost as shown in the picture. The grooves do stop slightly further down the post, but the best saddle height for me is when the grooves partially go down into the seat tube. To me this looks as if water/rain can just flow down the grooves into the (steel) seat tube. What are the dangers of steel frames rusting from the inside out if water gets in? Is this seatpost designed to be used at a minimum height so that the grooves are completely above the clamp? (I can't see any minimum insertion height marked on the post.)


texts: Is a Stan's presta valve necessarily compatible with presta valve cores from other manufacturers? Or do they all have different threads?


texts:
I've started to hear creaking/clicking sounds from the saddle tube. Is the frame giving up?
I could look for a longer saddle post, if that would relieve some of the strain on this part of the frame, but I'm not sure what length to get.

I've measured the outer diameter of the post to be approx. 27mm -- but what is the proper name/size for this dimension?

It's a 58 (cm/in?) aluminum frame with 28" wheels, roughly 10 years old. I've got the saddle fairly high, but I'm a tall guy (192cm, 95kg) so it needs to be like this. When I put a heel on the lowest pedal, my leg is practically straight. Perhaps I should buy a bike with a bigger frame, if that exists, but I am hoping to avoid significant expenses. The bike is otherwise in good condition.

Updates to comments:

Saddle post is 1cm lower than its "max" mark. Close, but okay - perhaps too close, given my weight? (95kg)
frame and post is metal, presumably both aluminum.
Creaking goes away when standing. That's why I suspect this area.
Saddle clamp and rails seem good on visual inspection.


texts: What is a good way to learn how to ride a bike on rollers?

texts:
After seeing a few questions about rollers pop-up, such as this one, it has spiked my interest in these things again.

So how do you learn how to ride on rollers? How long does it take you to get the hang of it? Is it like learning to use clipless pedals where you are almost guaranteed to fall off a couple of times before you get it nailed?


texts:
I need to replace a Shimano Deore RD-M531 rear derailleur which has a long cage (9 speed cassette). I can replace the derailleur no problem, but my knowledge isn't great and am just not sure what to replace it with. This is an old bike and I would be happy with second hand to minimise costs. I would buy the same but none available on line. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Matt


texts: I've been trying to determine what size road or mountain bike I should purchase. All the charts I've found suggest what frame size I should have, but online shopping only lists wheel sizes. How do I determine what wheel size is best for my height?


texts: I have a BMX frame with a stylised "h" on the rear forks. Can anyone ID it for me?


texts: Brake response is spongey post-brake lever upgrade

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I have just performed an upgrade of brake levers on my Plug Racer, from the original cross-style levers (top mounted, possibly Promax 239A models) to Cane Creek 200TT bar end levers, connecting them to the original Tektro R538 brake calipers. The change of handlebar position entailed the installation of new cabling and housing also.

The response I get when braking has changed significantly post-upgrade, with a very spongey action. Having done a bit of research into why this might be, it would appear to be an excess of mechanical advantage in the braking system (as discussed by Sheldon here and here), a result of the new levers being of a short-pull type, and the original calipers requiring a long pull.

I haven't been able to confirm the 'pull' characteristics of the components in question however (the 200TT manual just says "200TT brake levers are compatible with caliper brakes", and instructions for the R538s are not available from Tektro), so before I go and look for a compatible set of brake calipers, is there anything else that might cause spongey action in the braking system?


texts: So after 35 years I have removed the Shimano freewheel from my original Puch racer, stripped and cleaned it and put it back together withoit losing any bearings.  Phew.  It was very gunged up.  But the two internal shims have been damaged and whilst I tried to realign them, the outer bearings bind when the lock ring is tight.  If I loosen it a bit then the freewheel works great again.  I cannot find a source (or size) for those shims - can anyone point me in the right direction. I have ordered an EBay freewheel replacement but really want to get the original working.  Thanks in advance.


texts: Proper term for 2/3-bolt compatible shoes

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I've just managed to find some shoes that are compatible with both 2-bolt SPDs (that I use) and 3-bolt (I'll be using a setup with Look cleats for a single velodrome session).  But it was really tricky tracking them down. Is there a proper term for these shoes?

Some that didn't work:

Multi-cleat
2/3 bolt (this was how they were listed on some sites, but wasn't searchable on the same sites

I'm asking mainly for reference and in the hopes that an answer will provide a key for the next person in my position


texts: Bottom bracket tool for Shimano BB-R60 Ultegra 6800/105 5800 Hollowtech ii?

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I need a bottom bracket tool to fit a torque wrench (I think they are all 3/8" drive as standard).  Wiggle sent me one but it doesn't fit.  Do you know the correct torque wrench tool for this Shimano BB-R60 Ultegra 6800/105 5800 Hollowtech ii ? :

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-bb-r60-ultegra-6800105-5800-hollowtech-ii/

I got this Lezyne one but its too big :

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-external-bottom-bracket-socket-tool/

Shimano supply a plastic TL-FC25 with the BB-R60  B.B but it doesn't fit the Lezyne B.B socket tool.

Park Tool have 3 B.B tools but I don't know which one.  Or where I can get a cheaper one if they are expensive :

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-49?category=Crank%20&%20Bottom%20Bracket

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-59?category=Crank%20&%20Bottom%20Bracket

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-69?category=Crank%20&%20Bottom%20Bracket


texts:
I'm going on a coast to coast tour, fully supported, so only carrying what I need for the day.

I have a Trek Speed Concept I have used for Ironman races and a few multi day tours (75 mile days).

I used a touring bike with a triple for a similar ride a few years ago. It was great in the mountains (and for being new to riding at the time), but felt slow the rest of the time. Really wanting to take the Speed Concept on this ride...compact crank with 11/28 cassette, Thoughts? Am I nuts?


texts: Rohloff twist shifter is too slippery when sweating

texts: My Rohloff Speedhub is pretty slick, but unfortunately so is the twist shifter when I'm sweaty.  In southern Florida, riding my trike, that's pretty much all the time.  Switching gears already has higher resistance than your standard derailleur; when under a bit of load it takes even more effort, and there are times when I literally cannot shift gears because my grip slips.  I don't have many options to change out the shifter (it's custom to Rohloff) and it's irregularly shaped so I don't think I could use bike tape or anything on it.  I'm hoping someone can give me a solution that will give me a good grip even when sweaty or wet that isn't going to look ridiculous or be unwieldy.


texts: Maximum load of seat and quality of cheap carbon seats from China

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I ride daily a single speed bike in the city, where is a lot of bumps, pothole etc. I would like to replace  my current heavy seat (550g) for something very light. On eBay are available some cheap “carbon” seats from China with its weight around 120 – 190g. So, I have two questions:

Many description have information regarding maximum load of seat e.g. 120kg Are that seats suitable for me (90kg) even when I ride over some bump?

Do you have any experience with cheap “carbon” seats from China on eBay?

Many thanks
Petr


texts:
My bike pump hose keeps splitting in two halves. First time it split near the base of the pump (which i fixed by discarding the smaller piece and inserting the longer one to the base of the of pump) and now it has split right in the middle. I searched the internet but could find nothing like this reported before. I am perplexed, what could be the likely reason? I have been keeping the pump on the floor inside a closet for about four years and the two splitting incidents took place in the last month. Nothing else in the closet or the house have damaged. It looks like a very sharp clean cut:

Thanks!


texts: What should I factor in when moving from a 50/34T to a 53/39T

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I have a 11-32 cassette.

I'll be looking to do this for short 30km rides and long 100km rides on the weekend. the 30km rides have a few hills, nothing major, whilst the longer ride is generally quite flat.

Other than changing the chain to compensate for wear as well as factoring in the larger diameter of the new crank what else should i consider?

Apologies, I am very new to cycling and not sure where else to ask or where to look for information.


texts: Carrying a Carradice Camper Longflap when off the bike

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I'm currently considering getting a Carradice Camper Longflap saddlebag as I've heard good things about it and like the idea of being able to carry a lot of stuff in a saddle bag.  Just one thing concerns me, and I haven't been able to find out that answer elsewhere:

Is there a handle or something on the bag?  If not, is it easy to fit some sort of carrying mechanism, or is the bag meant to be just left on the bike?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Do you oscillate your diet along with your riding?

texts:
Briefly
If on alternate days you cycle and rest, and your ride uses, say, 1200 calories, what's better, to eat 2600 calories daily (and then where does the deficit come from on the riding days?) or to alternate between 3200 and 2000 calories (and what kind of diet supplies you with 3200 without disturbing your digestive system?).
For the impatient, let me illustrate the question with a figure.

Not So Briefly
My cyclocomputer tells me that my ride used 1200 calories. I'm here not trying to determine whether the figure is accurate. I'm trying to better understand the appropriate diet for a workout that uses such a substantial fraction (or, for some, a multiple) of the basic daily caloric needs. The other question (how can we—or how does a cyclocomputer—determine the calories used given distances, altitudes, heart rate samples, and speeds) is a very interesting question, but it is not the subject of the present discussion.
Since going through what was most likely "hitting the wall," I've been cautious to eat more, especially carbs.
During the ride I can get 350 or so calories from three small snacks.
Right after the ride I attempt to use this glycogen replenishment window and consume 170 g (about a third of a pasta package) to get ~550 calories heavy in carbs. With a sauce and fruits this after-the-ride lunch might add up to 800 calories, which is not too far from what an adult might need without a workout (assuming vaguely 400+800+800 for the three meals).
The purpose of this worked-out example is to illustrates the difficulty of attempting to reach 3200 calories in a day.
If I did this route daily, it would be simple enough. Rather than the daily ~2000, I'd aim to consume ~3200 calories daily.
But, in full humility, admiration, and respect for those who can climb three mountain ranges racing one day and still be expected to repeat the feat on the following day, I need a day to rest.
What do you do if you ride a day and rest the next? Is it more sensible to increase your caloric intake to, in this example, 2600 daily, or would you alternate between 3200 and 2000?
I am not trying to lose weight. More importantly, I'm hoping to avoid that the caloric deficit would come from losing muscles.
If you choose option 1 (a regular diet), where does the deficit on the training days come from?
If you choose option 2 (an irregular diet), is the human digestive system able to handle the stress of this fluctuation? Or is the secret really to drop the quality of the food and eat, say, cakes or chocolate bars, and then a thousand extra calories become a small volume of food. In that case it seems a spreadsheet would be necessary—to avoid that the outlandish number of calories do not come with an equally spectacular amount of saturated fats. Few would complain of the opportunity to indulge in extra slices of cakes and chocolate bars. The trouble then is the accompanying (saturated) fat. Even if it's not the objective, one of the nice side effects of a workout is to develop a larger heart muscle and larger-flow arteries. It doesn't help if that happens while both become surrounded with fat deposits.
Update

Part of the problem is fear that my hunger triggers may be entirely off. They only signal a very slight extra hunger on riding days, which may mean a slow, inadvertent, and gradual muscle loss. The combination of potentially being hard to measure (slow) yet cumulative (gradual) muscle loss is what makes it worrisome.

Judging by the very existence of hitting the wall, it's not that hard to exhaust the carbs stored in the body. I understand that these carb stores increase with exercise, but meanwhile what mechanism does the body use to average out? Are fat stores really capable of building up and getting used in a short-scale cycle?


texts: Which dual-platform clipless pedals allow for the least amount of movement between the pedal and sneaker

texts:
I am trying to decide between the A530 or PD-M324.  I am interested in hearing from folks who have used both.  Weight isn't the most important factor in my decision, so I would go with whichever model is grippier.  If they're more or less equal in that department, I would be inclined to go with the A530 since it's a bit lighter.  I wear flat-soled sneakers most frequently.

I've looked at this thread, which provides suggestions on how to improve the grippyness of the A530 (leading me to believe that they are somewhat slippery):

How do I make the platform side of a Shimano PD-A530 multi-purpose SPD pedal less "slippery"?


texts: What would cause variable air resistance on a day with no wind?

texts:
I commute to work regularly. I find that on some days when there's no perceivable wind, I feel like there's almost no air resistance at all and it's so easy to ride at speed. It's also relatively quiet without the wind roaring in my ears.

On other days when there's no perceivable wind, it feels like I'm riding in soup. It's really hard to get any speed up and the air is quite noisy in my ears.

I've discussed with my co workers and they often say they have the same effect on the same days as I've observed. Although they're also travelling in the same direction as me, so I can't rule out a very slight headwind causing the perceived difference.

Possible explanations:

There's a slight tail or head wind on these days.
On days that I'm more rested or energetic I could feel like the ride is relatively effortless.

Are there any other explanations that would contribute? High humidity or a high pressure zones?


texts:
I'm building a bike from scratch, and went to my LBS today to get the head tube faced. They told me I don't need it (they also told me they don't have the tool), but when I look at the frame, there is some visible unevenness at the top end of the head tube. Also, the bottom end is far from flush. This is the first time I do this, so unsure to keep looking for a shop that can face the tube, or just install the cups. It's an new aluminium frame. See the picture below, does it need facing?

I'll be installing a zerostack headset with industrial bearings btw, not loose ball bearings.


texts: Purpose of barrel adjuster on Travel Agent?

texts: I mistakenly bought the version of the Travel Agent (by Problem Solvers) without the barrel adjuster, and I’m just wondering if I need it.  What’s the barrel adjuster used for?  My bike has reverse brake levers (short pull) and linear pull v-brakes (long pull).


texts:
I own the Shimano sport camera, which per specs, will read speed, cadence and heart rate via ANT+. I am told that the data from the devices is recorded onto a .csv file that is stored on the card with the video. To put the two together, you are supposed to use software from Shimano. I can't find a download link anywhere online.

Does anyone know if the above procedure is correct, and when Shimano will be releasing the software?

I need to buy an ANT+ HRM and cadence/speed sensor but am not going to waste the money if they aren't going to release it this year.

Camera Info: http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/articles/shimano-sport-camera.html


texts: Can mountain bike dirt remaining on different parts for long time damage the bike?

texts:
My mountain bike is dirty from dust, mud and oil. Does it do any harm to the parts if I leave it dirty for a few more months - and for the sake of background information - or forever? I can imagine the granulate part of sand doing harm to the transmission (3x9 Deore XT), however that already happens if the mud splashes on it during the ride and the effect should wear off after some kilometers.

I'm interested on the effect of the varnish of the frame as well as dust entering into rotating parts (usually all embedded in an axle bearing) or the suspension fork. In order to remove oil film I need to use a degreasing product which might do more harm to those parts than the dirt remaining on it. Cleaning techniques involving pressured water might increase this effect.

Having clean tires is probably a good advise for security reasons/grip, but the combination of profile and my tracks causes them to become clean pretty much automatically.

The ideas should apply to other bike types as well.


texts: Low gearing setup for road bike with Shimano dual control

texts:
Question:  What is my best bet for a crankset, given the following requirements for a road bike I am setting up:

68mm "English" thread bottom bracket
Shimano STI "brifters", 2x10 (I already have these!)
Low crankset/chainring gearing approximately 24/39, similar to mountain 2x10
Front index shifting works reasonably well (between the two chainrings)
Other existing components are Ultegra 10-speed 12-23 cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur, and CX-70 front derailleur (all these parts should work with desired gearing)
Assume all current generation parts

One possibility I am considering is to use the Shimano 105 triple, and replace the outer ring with a guard; my only concern with this is that the spacing between inner and middle rings might not match what the 2x brifter is expecting. Various mountain cranks are possibilities, but issues with chainring spacing and chainline might come into play.

For my philosophy on this gearing, see this link at Rivendell Bikes:
http://www.rivbike.com/Cranks-Chainrings-s/41.htm
also click the link on that page for "low-wide" crankset.

Thanks!


texts: How to remove a (press fit?) crank arm from a chain ring?

texts: Does anyone know how to remove this crank arm? Or if it can be removed? The bike was ~$250 and seems to have a lot of 'don't take this apart' engineering, I'd like to soak the chain rings in rust remover without the arm interfering. The interface is also just a bit loose. It's not clear if there's any way to tighten that gear-looking around the square.


texts:
Sheldon Brown's site suggests that QR skewers should be installed with the levers on the left side of the bike, "so the derailer [sic] doesn't interfere with it" and that "Usually, the lever for the front wheel also is on the left side, but some Bike Friday travel bicycles fold more easily if the handle is on the right side".
Most of my bikes now have disc brakes, and it seems better to install the levers on the right side so that there's no potential of the handle fouling the brake disk, however remote that possibility may be.
If I don't have any problems with the QR lever hitting the derailleur, is there any other downside to installing QR levers on the right side of the bike (drive side)?
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html


texts: Storing commuter bicycle indoors during winter

texts:
I got myself a road bike that I intend to ride occasionally during winter (mostly for commuting). I live in an apartment, so storing the bicycle in a dry and cold place such as garage is not an option. I know that frequent temperature changes may lead to rust on steel components. My bike has double-butted alloy frame and carbon fork, so no rust hazard there, but other parts may be compromised. On the other hand, keeping the bicycle near a heating device may cause damage to tires and/or other rubber components.

Just to discern from a similar question: my general concern is related to frequent extreme environment changes (wet and cold outdoors vs. hot and dry indoors) and their impact on bicycle maintenance/performance.

So, what are the usual tips for storing a commuter bicycle indoors, during winter?


texts: Using Engine Starter Fluid to Decontaminate Brake Pads

texts: I have some hydraulic disc brakes, and for one reason or another they get contaminated. My dad (who's worked on cars for ages) told me to use engine starter fluid, but I'm kind of skeptical about this. I know they make some brake cleaners, but would starter fluid accomplish the same task without negative side effects?


texts: Bike pedals not moving for upright position

texts:
I need the help with my bike. When starting a bike (stopped position), I cannot move my pedals to the upright (power) position before starting. When I stopped in the traffic light, I need to move my bike to return my pedal to the upright position. I wanted to ask if it is normal for some bikes or there is a problem with the bike.

I suppose it is not fixie. Correct me if I am wrong. Is it possible to get it changed?


texts:
I have my eye on the Garmin 800. It looks fantastic, but alas I can't afford it right now.
I would like a gps / cycle computer that would work well in Europe with maps.

What are my options? I want something I can couple with wheel sensors for speed (better accuracy).

Next month I intend to cycle through Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Thanks in advance


texts: Are more expensive chains/casettes more quiet?

texts:
If we ignore the lower end products and compare mid and high end products. Is there a noticeable difference between the sound produced while pedaling in the same gear (Not the shifting sound)?

For example if we are talking about shimano, compare tiagra or 105 vs ultegra or durace.

This question is not so much for road use but to use the bike in a trainer inside a flat.


texts: How to solve issue with self-unscrewing Praxis Convo BB for Shimano?

texts:
I am looking to solve the issue with Praxis Convo BB which unscrews by itself during the ride. What would be the best solution?

On my second ride on a Specialized Venge Pro 2019, I noticed that my Praxis "SHIMANO-BB30/PF30 CONV BB 68MM" bottom bracket is loose. I immediately stopped riding and brought my bike to the nearest bike-shop.

According to mechanic at the bike-shop drive-side cup of the BB bottoms out before rubber expanding collet even starts expanding. They installed new BB (just a new Praxis BB) but it's also doesn't sit there very tight, just barely starts expending before bottoming out.

Loose cup (just removed crankset and touched cup to show how loose it
is)

When cup is screwed in by hand it bottoms out before starting expanding:

P.S. Keep in mind that I have Shimano Ultegra R8000 crankset


texts: Apparent pedal force improvement from swept back handlebars; why not use them?

texts: As a teenager a friend found some antique swept back motorcycle handlebars that had the same expansion nut type fitting as my bike and we had to try them out; the handles just touched the front of the saddle when turning very sharply - with any kind of speed, not at all. The point is the amount of force that could be applied to the pedals was greater, because pulling up on the handles was close to being in line with the force down. As analogy, it was like lifting a weight in a straight line from standing above position instead of having it out at arms length and trying to lift. My father immediately ordered their removal as unsafe - it certainly made it (too) easy to wheelstand both from centre of mass being further back (upright position) and that greater force. However, if a bike were designed to achieve that in line pull on handlebar/push on pedals, would performance, especially uphill/against the wind be improved?  I think recumbent designs may use this effect.


texts:
I have a Cube Agree GTC (2012), and I would like to buy some tri-bars for it. I've read that this model (
Although, on second thoughts, maybe this is a newer model...) has compatibility issues with clip on tri-bars so I was hoping that someone has already solved this problem, if one exists (I've never bought or clipped on tri-bars before)

Has anyone satisfactorily purchased tri-bars for this model? Any recommendations?


texts: How to brake without falling during wet weather?

texts:
A couple of days ago I fell off my bike. I was on a wet, steep downhill, asphalted road with a lot of curves. I didn't expect neither the weather, nor the 15+ km downhill route. I was always reducing my speed to 9-10 kph before taking a turn. However, just after a taking a turn and before another curve, when I pressed the rear brake lever, the wheel stopped turning immediately, despite the slight pressure, and started to slide. Worse, the bike didn't stop, it started to accelerate. I pressed the front brake lever, slowly initially, but since the bike was still accelerating, I pressed more was thrown off. Never mind the damage; I got off with minor injuries, the bike as well. This could have been due to my being careful to begin with, but not enough, apparently, so my question is how can I be better prepared in the future? And what might have caused the tyre to slide? The road was wet and with minor holes and bumps, sure, but I had gone through similar terrain seconds ago and I could brake just fine. And I'm sure I didn't press the lever way too hard than perceived. Also, there wasn't any wet sand. None that I could see anyway.

In hindsight, there are a few things that came to my mind. I'm not entirely sure about any of them, however, since I have just recently started to cycle since my childhood/high school years and I just discovered that there was stuff I was missing out on back then (such as bike fitting and geometry).

The saddle could've been lowered. I normally ride so that my knees
bend at a 25-30 degrees at the pedals' lowest position. I assume
lowering the saddle would've necessitated much more effort from the
front brake to throw me.
My bike is suited for XC racing. Would picking a downhill bike, with
the appropriate frame geometry, have made a difference, provided we're
talking about an asphalted road?
Should I have kept the rear or both brakes engaged constantly? At
the time, I didn't want to do this out of fear that they, being disc
brakes, would overheat and the rotor would be destroyed. The route I
was on was at least 28 km long, mostly steep downhill, save for the
last 10 km or so, which were a rather pleasant, slight descent.


texts: How to safely dispose of extra chain lube

texts: I was trying to revive my old dirty chain for a few weeks while I waited for my replacement cassette to come in, so I partially soaked it in some chain lubricant.  What's the safest way to dispose of a small amount of dirty chain lube?


texts:
i am planning to replace my current crankset and BB with this:

http://www.jensonusa.com/Cranksets/Race-Face-Ride-1X-Crankset?cs=Blue

Would like to know if this compatible with my bike. Currently here's what i know about the specs:

Its a single speed with 32t front sprocket and 14t rear cog
It has an eccentric bottom bracket, i measured the shell to be 7.3 cm
The current crankset i have now is a Truvativ e400 with powerspline bottom bracket

Here's a photo of my BB, hope it helps.


texts:
I would like to find an as similar as possible replacement fork for my 2012 Giant Roam 2. (They have rusted over time).

The full spec of the bike is here: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/roam.2/9330/49862/

According to that site, the forks I am looking are the SR Suntour NEX 4610 Lock-out.

However, I cannot seem to get them online anywhere.

Any ideas of what types of forks I can get for this? On a budget!!


texts: Swapping out my front and rear derailleurs

texts:
I have been having trouble adjusting my gears correctly, so that they stop making noise and grinding in one spot or another.

Every time I set the high, the low goes and then fiddling with the cable length blows everything out.

I have a 2014 Giant "Boulder 2" which came with a Tourney TX55 rear derailleur and a Tourney TX51 front derailleur.

I purchased a Tourney TX35 rear derailleur and a new Sora 3500-B x2 front derailleur, thinking this might solve the problem, but I'm now just stuck with questions.

Will the Sora fit as my front derailleur in place of the original Tourney FD?
Will the Sora be a better option than the original Tourney FD?
Is it worth changing over to the other new Tourney TX RD, as I don't think there is anything wrong with the original?
I would like to upgrade both derailleurs, but what should I buy and what would be the next level up?


texts:
So I did my first bicycle race this weekend.

The watts graph was very varied, there was a lot of low watt (150-200w) and short bursts of +400w.

I would like to know how many bursts there where, and how long and what wattage they where on. Looking at the data in Strava I only see the 25w distribution or the maximum watt given a time (power curve).

I don't want to do this manually.

Are there any good tools for analysis of this sort?


texts: Practical benefits of expensive jockey wheels?

texts:
Today I had to make a detour to the bike shop as a jockey wheel decided to fly out of a friend's derailleur. The shop were able to supply a replacement retaining bolt free of charge, however the only jockey wheels that they stocked were cartridge bearing ones at £20 a go. Needing to get home, the derailleur received an unexpected upgrade.

I did not notice any speed improvement on the way back, the jockey wheels didn't strike me as being featherlight and the shifting worked the same as before. I was beginning to wonder 'if we had been had'.

So, what is the point of expensive jockey wheels? I can see the benefit for the shop, but not for the cyclist.


texts: How many miles of riding require the same effort as one mile of running?

texts: A co-worker and myself are having a friendly bike / run contest. What is a good ratio for miles ridden vs. miles run? I know it depends on pace. But I'm curious what a generally accepted range of ratios might be.


texts: The Scope Of The Lance Armstrong Doping Scandal

texts:
I know that Lance Armstrong has decided not to fight the allegations of his doping; while technically not an admission of guilt - he is being sanctioned/punished for doping.  I've also read that several of his team-mates and team doctors have also been sanctioned/punished/banned for life for their involvement in doping.

Is there a single, comprehensive list of everyone from the team (for the various) years that either has been busted or hasn't been?  Is it pretty much accepted that everyone cheated, or were there people involved who were actually clean and unaware of the cheating?


texts: Why is carbon fiber inherently weak? Or is it?

texts:
This question got me to thinking: If it were possible for me to use a carbon frame, I would, but the expense and my riding style keep me using steel and aluminum. (I like hauling stuff on racks and I'm not a skinny guy.)

I'm looking for a physical reason why carbon is a weak, fragile material, suitable for light bikes that will be treated delicately. Keep in mind, they make airplanes out of this stuff!

Is there some reason carbon fiber has to be treated with kid gloves? What is it about the material that resists being light and strong? Or, perhaps, is the weakness of carbon a myth, and it's all in the way that carbon bike frames are built at present?


texts: Blind rivet nuts for ebike battery on frame: aluminium or steel?

texts:
I'm planning my first installation of an ebike battery by drilling/riveting the frame (photo of the battery below), here are some details about the project:

The battery weights about 5 kg.
It's a folding bike, and because of the hinge, the battery won't be close to the frame, but shifted up about 15 mm using spacers between the frame (i.e. the rivets) and the battery support. This adds leverage on sideways force.
I wish to put at least 4 rivets. Maybe more, by putting 2 close rivets on some holes of the battery support.
I'm aware steel rivets are much harder to install than aluminium rivets. But I'm planning to buy a good quality clamp, with a lot of leverage.
I'm considering to use M6 fasteners rather than the standard M5 if there is enough room (in
particular for the bolt heads).
Bolts will most certainly be 12.9 steel.

As you may have guessed, I wish the installation to be really sturdy. The bike will be stressed, and I'm really worried about breaking bolts because of sideways force (for example if the bike falls down). So I want peace of mind about this. Also, I encounter many DIY ebikes having battery wobbling issues, and I'd like to avoid that...
So, steel rivets may seem to be a better pick than aluminium rivets, but I think they have a major drawback: if there is an issue with a rivet (e.g. it gets loose and turns on itself), an aluminium rivet would be very easy to remove, just by drilling it, whereas drilling steel would be much, much more difficult. (I know it, on a screwed up steel bolt, I had to drill for many hours, just to remove a very small amount of material...)
Thus I'm hesitating between aluminium and steel rivets, though I'm bending towards aluminium because of the above issue. What are your insights about this?
Update: Here are some details following up to your first answers and comments:

The frame is aluminium. By very rough measurement, the wall thickness should be about 2.75~3mm.
To clarify/emphasize, I'm indeed talking about rivet nuts, aka nivnuts. Not regular rivets.
I'm aware of galvanic corrosion issues, though in the present case it shouldn't be too hard to manage. (and the bikes are stored indoor, that helps a lot)
My previous issue with drilling steel could have been because of inadequate drill bits. I can't say, maybe. It was with a Dremel actually (a pretty powerful one, though).

So, shall I opt for steel rivets?

If ever I had to drill through one, it would be doable by using a good drill bit (like cobalt or carbide), right?
If ever the rivet started rotating on itself, could I just try first to use the clamp again on it?

Update 2:

After some more reading, I have established that aluminium rivnuts would be too weak and inadequate for the job. Therefore I'm going to use steel rivnuts.
People also put some red Loctite (the permanent one), or even JB Weld, when installing; I may go for the Loctite. Using JB Weld sounds overkill, even for me.
I have created a new question, about the spacing I need to put between the frame and the battery: DIY ebike: what system to choose for adding space between frame and battery?. Your insights are welcome!


texts: What kind of bike is a brooks champion flyer saddle suitable for?

texts: I have a brooks champion flyer, sprung saddle which I have used in the past for touring on a converted mtb.However, I have read recently on Sheldon Brown that they are best suited to bikes where the handlebar is higher than the saddle. Is there a recommended bike setup or limit for handlebar to sandle height difference for using this saddle? I've got this in my head now and I cant remember the difference between handlebars and saddle I had when I was using the saddle for touring. Now I want to use the saddle for commuting but my mtb has a different cockpit set up and wanted to get third opinion!


texts: Changing the middle chainring on a 3-chainring crank

texts: I have a shimano acera crankset (3x) that is 28-38-48 with a 8 speed rear derail. Now I was going to convert this bike into a SS but decided not to mess with it. Can I take off the middle chainring (38) and replace it with a 44 teeth chainring instead without any messing/adjusting with the front derail.? (I'll just be using the middle chainring)


texts: How to clean a bike after muddy/sandy cyclocross race (or mountain bike ride)

texts:
What do I need to be concerned with when cleaning my bike after a typical muddy and sandy cyclocross race? (Probably also applicable to mountain biking.)
Particularly, what can be done (in the field) between races to keep the bike clean and ready to ride again? Also, what am I missing due to the quick cleaning which I should take care of at home later?
I know we are supposed to avoid using a high pressure washer around the hubs / bottom bracket to avoid pushing out the grease.
I'm concerned with

Grit in the chain
Grit in the brake cables / shift cables
Grit in the brakes and on the rims (typically canti-brakes)
Mud caked in and around every part of the drivetrain / hubs / derailleur
Re-lubing the drivetrain (and other parts) for another race
What kind of 'field kit' items I will need for this

Other Related Questions on bike cleaning:

How to wash a bike properly?
How can I clean sand off my bike chain?
What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?


texts: Identifying extra triggers in a speedometer

texts:
The HRM, GPS, and cadence in my cyclocomputer give perfectly good readings, but the speedometer (and hence the odometer) readings are obviously incorrect.
Because the speed and distance readings seem to be just about twice what they should be, I'm guessing that something other than the dedicated magnet is triggering the extra events.

Might the Presta valve be magnetized and provide that extraneous trigger? Since the cadence and wheel receiver are in the same piece, there is not a lot of flexibility in moving the dual-receiver far away from the valve.
Have you been there? What are some ideas to debug this issue?


texts: Upgrading from a freewheel type to cassette type

texts: I'm kinda new for this, I am planning upgrade my bike from a freewheel type to a cassette type. How can I determine the cogs for the cassette type? My old bike has 8-speed freewheel cogs gears which range from 13T-28T.


texts:
My mountain bike has a BB30 bottom bracket that was clicking under power. The bike is only a month old, so I figured, break in period, and I took the crank off and greased everything up with teflon grease. I coated everything I could get my hands on in the grease, and re-tightened the crank to the specified torque ( 430 inch pounds ).

Much to my frustration, the clicking is back when under power, after riding a mile or two. What is my next plan of attack?

Updates: I tested a different pair of pedals to rule out the pedal bearings ( no, I didn't swap left for right ). I tried tightening the chainring bolts several days ago, no changes there. The crankset is some sort of SRAM Truative triple. Unlike the cranksets I've owned in the past, there's a ring on the non-drive side with an arrow on it, I'm wondering if it's a suspect at this point.


texts: How can I teach my capable 20-something friend to ride a bike?

texts:
My friend, let's call him Jack, does not know how to ride a bicycle. Jack is a fully capable 27-year-old man. His father was incarcerated during a block of his upbringing, leaving him without a skill that many of us (his friends) take for granted. In a related note, he didn't learn how to tie his shoes until he was 11. TMI, but true.

I tried once to teach him how to ride. Several years ago I piled sporting protection on his body - football shoulder pads, catchers shinguards, rollerblade elbow pads - and guided him down a gently sloping hill. He glided successfully for 50 yards and hopped running off the bike into a soft grass lawn, thinking he'd figured it all out. The second time he got on the seat he pedaled head over handlebars into a fire hydrant. There was no third ride that day and there hasn't been since.

But he wants it. I've Googled "adult training wheels." I've found a set that costs more than $200. This is unreasonably expensive. The embarrassment of using training wheels is not a problem for him. Being unable to ride a bike is embarrassing enough.

Are training wheels the way to go for a guy like Jack? How else might I help him ride?


texts: MTB tires: why the extended thread on the edges?

texts:
I have tires similar to this one:

My point is that the tire is quite "flat", with large knobs on the edges, unlike most MTB tires, which are round.

The tires feel quite unstable on any hard surface when cornering. What is the design reason behind making an MTB tire non-round?


texts: How come some cyclists lean forward at a 45 - 60 degree angle and I don't?

texts:
I just wanted to ask how come some cyclists when they ride they lean forward, with their arms straight, resemble a 45 to 60 degree angle (which looks cool by the way).

I have a hybrid bike and I wish I could get that look and it seems to be more efficient because some of the weight looks to be shifted in the front wheel compared with cycling on a straight back (90-80 degrees angle).

Is it the distance between the seat and the handlebars? Is that the reason they have to bend their body? Or is it something else?


texts:
This is a job I will do very rarely, so I would prefer to avoid buying a specialty tool, if possible.

Unfortunately I don't own a dremel. Side cutters just mashed everything and did not cut at all. Are there any other methods you can recommend?

EDIT: I think this is different from the brake cable housing question, in that side cutters will get the job done with a little effort on brake cable. They have a much harder time cutting the parallel strands of derailleur cable housing.

EDIT2: I asked the guys at the store where I bought the housing to cut it to length for me and they didn't mind. :)


texts: How to prevent my disc brakes from locking/sticking due to debris?

texts:
Context:

I have a commuter/crossover bike with disc brakes, and a daily commute of ~20km. I upgraded to a bike with disc brakes after standard caliper brakes kept losing their stick and requiring pad replacements, as my rims became coated with oil from the roads (I commute past a diesel truck depot, and the road is nasty for about 1km).

Problem:

Since I upgraded, I have the opposite problem: literally every day in the winter, my disc brakes get full of mud, road salt, and sand. That stuff gets on top of and behind the (magnetically attached) brake pads, and makes them drag on the rotor. At best, they make the brakes constantly pull as if they were about 1/2 engaged. At worst, the water in the mud freezes and expands over night (I have a tiny apartment, and the bike sleeps outside), and the brakes are completely locked in the morning.

What I've Tried:

At first I thought it was the cables that were freezing with tension on the brakes, but after replacing and oiling them, I isolated the problem to the brake rotors/pads themselves.

The roads where I live are pretty much always covered in debris all winter, so changing my commute to avoid that stuff doesn't really work.

I've tried adjusting the brake pads farther away from the rotors. This works a little, but to fully prevent sticking, I have to adjust the pads so far out that I can't fully engage the brakes when I want to.

Up until now, I've been washing the bike with water every night (annoying, since during the winter the outside faucets don't work), and rinsing the brakes with warm water every morning to unfreeze them.

Question:

This is getting really old, so my question is: without obsessively cleaning them 1-2 times a day, how do I keep my disc brakes from getting gummed up? If the answer is "buy better disc brakes", that's fine. I just have no idea what to look for.


texts: Giant Terrago 26 inch, can i have disc brakes?

texts:
Hi I have a 26inch Giant Terrago and i was just wondering if I can have disc brakes. I can on the forks but I don't know it I can on the back?

I have looked at other bikes but couldn't see the same as mine so just wondering if anyone can help me on this?


texts: Are derailluers always or usually compatible with any cassettes?

texts: Is it OK to choose a derailleur without taking into consideration the cassette that will be used with it and vice-versa?


texts: What is the twin-link four bar suspension designs trying to solve?

texts:
In another answer on suspension spring load calculations, @Criggie provided some examples of different suspension designs, 1) the standard four-bar, and 2) the twin-link four-bar:

Clearly there second has a more complicated linkage, but what is the twin-link four-bar suspension design trying to solve?

The twin-link seems to have a bigger virtual pivot point and the magnified axle path seems to swerve less laterally, but it's hard to tell from the exaggerated diagram.


texts: How often should rear suspension frame linkages be serviced?

texts: I recently (2015) purchased my first full-suspension mountain bike.  As time goes by it is increasingly making creaking noises when I climb.  Initially I thought it was the press fit bottom bracket but have now come to the opinion it is the frame linkages.  Is it typical maintenance to remove the rear triangle and re-lubricate the pivot points on full-suspension mountain bikes?


texts: Mixing Dura Ace 9000 drivetrain with ultegra?

texts:
I'd like to mix the DA9K drivetrain (chain, chainrings, front and rear mech, excluding the cassette) with my current ultegra 6800 setup. I dislike the DA shifters, but I'm ready to upgrade my shifting and braking cables if need be (suggestions welcome).

Is this going to work?


texts: What kind of bottom bracket fixing is this?

texts:
Dismantled my bike to try and take a look at the crank bearing, as I fear it may be getting dry. Unfortunately at the stage pictured I could go no further.

The outer and inner rings appear to be separate, and locked against each other (presumably to set the end-float of the axle?). No idea what kind of fixing this is, so also no idea what sort of tool is required.

Does anyone recognise it?

Thanks!


texts: Can I install a gears cassette on a regular bike?

texts:
I was given a bicycle for my birthday (yai!), it has 24" wheels and it is awesome!

But it is single speed and sometimes it is hard to ride up-hill in my daily commute.
Could I change the rear gear for a gears cassette?
If so. Do I need to change the rear wheel as well?

PS. Am I using the correct terms? I'm new using english to talk about bicycles.


texts: will Shimano Shimano Dura Ace 7700 STI Flight Deck work with Rear Derailleur Shimano XT RD-M771

texts:
I thinking to change my Long Haul Trucker set up. Have both Dura Ace 7700 / 7703 STI Flight Deck 3x9. Will it be compatible with the LHT stock Front Derailleur Shimano Sora FD-3403 n Rear Derailleur Shimano XT RD-M771.

I'm changing over to Paul Touring Canti's brakes too. Just wondering what other issues might come up

Sorry if these questions are redundant.
Thanks for your time and consideration.


texts: Pedal: Platform came off axle which remained in crank

texts:
I have Shimano PD-T780 pedals. I bought them almost new only a year ago and they aren't cheap pedals.

On one pedal, the platform suddenly came off, revealing an axle which tapers off towards its end and has threads at that end barely visible through the grease in the following picture:

The axle thing has a hex indentation on the side not visible in the picture which is used to screw it into the crank. The silver wrench ring (like a nut but no screw threads visible) attached to the platform is labelled "Tighten 10Nm" and I haven't ever turned it. I don't  know what it's for. Looking into the platform, I think bearing balls were visible. Maybe it's designed to come apart like this for servicing.

Here is an exploded view: I can't seem to upload the picture I extracted from this pdf. The two leftmost pieces of assembly 1 (the ring is rubber, a seal I guess) are on the crank, the other pieces are in the platform.

I was in something of a hurry, so I just stuck it back on and used another bicycle.

How do I properly reassemble this? And while I'm at it, should I add some grease?


texts:
What tools are required to begin building a frame? Are there DIY substitutes for any of them?

Are there things that aren't requirements, but simplify the process enough to be worth the cost?

Aside from classes at a place like UBI, how do you start learning what is required to practice this art form?


texts: bicycle pedal design specifications for threads

texts: Where can I get information on the various different types of threads used in bike pedals as each manufacture has its own specifications? Different manufactures of pedals have different threads and I need the design and specification for the pedals to not strip the threads, etc.


texts: Bicycle is Having a hard time Shifting -- especially gears 13 and 14

texts:
21 speed commuter bike. Raleigh 2011 brand.

After my gear shifter cable was broken, I took it into the shop to get it fixed. (4 days ago). Ever since, when shifting, it takes forever to actually shift and often does quite 'violently'. Shifting way past the trouble gears (past where I can currently handle) or way lower solves the problem. But that's not a good solution obviously.

Is there anything that I can do to fix this problem? What did they mess up at the bike store?


texts: I bought this Lemond frame online. I have an opportunity to get some components for it before I actually receive the frame. Hoping to get more info on the bike (model/year) in the hope of getting some kind of spec sheet. Any help is appreciated.


texts: How to cope with boredom whilst cycle touring?

texts: I went on a long cycle tour before and I found myself getting bored whilst I was riding at some points. E.g. on monotonous main roads, and areas with not much scenery or people to stop and talk to, or when I got bored of music I was listening to. Does anyone have any advice about how to cope with boredom and in general improve the experience whilst touring.. I like to meet as many people as possible, because I found before that it was the people that made my journey interesting.


texts: Wrapping alloy brifters for cold weather

texts:
I have a bike with alloy brifters that get very cold during winter season riding.  I wear a nice pair of gloves and the cold comes right through because my hands are wrapped around them and usually in constant contact with some part of the alloy brake lever or the alloy shift paddle (Rival 22 Hydro).  This gets uncomfortable, as I'm sure many others have found while riding in the cold.

This is not a problem at all when I'm riding my bike with carbon and/or plastic brifters.

I know why this happens and my question is what and how can I wrap the levers with in order to mitigate the conduction from them to my fingers in cold weather?

I'm concerned with interfering with the motion of the paddles and levers.  I don't want them to be sticking or missing shifts because there is some bulky tape wrapped around them.

Are there any materials and methods others have used successfully? Also, I'm not really interested in bar mits as a solution.


texts:
I need to replace my completely worn cheap cranks (not sure how those are called, but the chainring and right crank are one piece). The chainline of my singlespeed freewheel is approx. 43 mm. I have a brand new Sugino RD2 crankset lying about (listed as 45 mm chainline with ring in outer position when used in combination with a 103 mm JIS spindle). I pulled my left crank and it revealed a Campagnolo bottom bracket (looks like centaur or veloce). I measured the width of my bottom bracket frame tube (standard 68 mm) and the  spindle protrudes for 22 mm on the left side (measured from the edge of the bottom bracket tube), so I concluded that the spindle length is probably 111 mm.
First question, is that a safe guess? Or should I really pull the right crank too?
Quick inspection gave me confidence that the combination of the ISO bb and the JIS crank won't be a problem. According to the late Sheldon Brown, this would cause the chainring to sit 4.5 mm more inboard, so the combination should give me a chainline of 44 mm with ring in outer position. Is this right?


texts: Choosing a rear derailleur for 11-42t cassette on a SRAM 10-speed 1x system

texts:
I have an 11-42t 10 speed cassette and a 42t narrow wide chainring. I cannot work it out definitely whether a Sram long cage rear derailleur will work with it.

I think that this one should work but if someone clever could confirm and/or recommend something better, I would really appreciate it: SRAM GX Type 2.1 10 Speed Rear Mech.

It's a road/gravel/commuter bike with bullhorn bars that I'm building myself. Its the first time I've built a bike and has been a steep learning curve which is part of the reason I'm doing it, buts its very fun.

I know there are loads of similar questions on the internet but I've trawled through hundreds and there seems to be so many inconsistencies and exceptions in the answers.


texts: What are the practical limitations of a road bike compared to a mountain bike?

texts:
I grew up on a big box store mountain bike. I want to get a road bike for my commute, but I'm curious about the limitations I'll experience.

I know the benefits of a road bike: lighter weight, less rolling resistance, aerodynamic riding position, etc.

But I want to learn about the limitations: I'm mainly concerned with the ability to hop up and down from curbs and occasionally riding through some mulch and grass.

Is a road bike's frame less tough than that of a mountain bike? On my cheap mountain bike, I can (though I usually don't) hop over and down from curbs at full speed. Would I have to be more ginger with the road bike or would curb-hopping be recommended against altogether? Would the drop bars make it difficult to hop over curbs at all? And would a road bike's tires be unsuitable for anything off-road? Any other limitations?


texts:
I just got an old MTB, I need to replace all the parts except the frame since the parts are in broken condition, except the sprocket and cassette
I'm a total newbie and LBS here cost crazily high, so I'm trying to replace all the parts by myself
The o.g parts are :

Shimano tourney SIS 3x6 - rusty and broken
Tire size is 26x2.125"
Crankset is rusty and broken too
Brake is also rusty and broken

So the question is

If I replace the group set to - let's say - Micro shift 3 x 9, will the group set work well? Do I need to change the cassette or I can stick with the original one which only have 6 speed and I can't/mustn't shift to 7th gear?

Which rim size will suit the tire? Is it also the 26 inch rim?
If I want to use narrower tire, 26 x 1.5", do I need to find a special rim size which will accommodate the tire width or any 26 inch rim will just do fine?

Thanks


texts:
I’m trying to install a chain with a snap on master link, but I can’t figure out how. I’ve tried twisting the chain as suggested by other questions to get it into place, but that doesn’t help. How do you do this? What’s the secret?

It’s a Shimano 8S CN-HG40 chain.


texts: Fixing rear-wheel puncture on belt-drive bike

texts:
I just bought a bike that has a Gates Carbon belt drive and am wondering what I will need do to remove the rear wheel when I get a puncture in my rear tyre away from home.

The dropout looks like this:

The centre part of the dropout on this side of the bike (and not the left side) is clearly removable. The rear of this removable dropout has a triangular shape that wedges it in place.

My guess is

Disconnect brake cable to allow room for tyre to pass them.
Disconnect shifter cable from hub.
Do nothing with the belt tensioner? Loosen it?
Loosen nuts holding rear axle.
Remove two recessed Allen (hex) bolts from removable dropout
Pull the frame apart slightly so the dropout can move forward?
Move the belt out of the way through the now open slot in the frame.
Pull the wheel out rearwards.

I don't like step 3 a lot. I've read the belt tension is important and I'm not confident of getting it correct when replacing the wheel. But if I don't loosen the belt tension first, step 6 may cause damage.

Is this procedure correct?


texts: Need help with gears and wheel alignment

texts: i have an aluminium frame single speed. I wanted to know is it possible to add gears to it (correctly). I saw same model with gears installed but the rear wheel was not in line with front wheel and was moved to a little left to accommodate the 7 speed gear freewheel. Is this something acceptable or a disaster to happen.


texts: Double-walled rim's what difference depth makes?

texts:
Provided both rims are double walled aluminum, what advantages/disadvantages of having deeper 30mm rim vs more narrow 18mm depth?

EDIT: I am not Tour de France type of rider, not setting world record in speed, more of commuter, most of the time i am cruising in the city streets and sidewalks.
Used to think smaller depth rim has less weight and this could be advantage for cruising (not high speeds) compared to deeper heavier aluminum rim also its more flexible so it could be advantage as well for bumps etc?
P.S. I do have a 700c retro skinny frame bicycle.


texts:
Hi I would like to know the maker of this bike I brought back from my stay in Italy. It has been repainted, It isn't the original fork, and the serial located on the top of th bb is :1148591
Any clue ? Thank you.


texts: Is this a good source of food for 25-50 mile ride?

texts: I like to mix almonds, walnuts, raisins, cashews and dried blueberries together have them as a snack throughout the day. I've never tried this food source on a 25-50 mile ride. I'd like some thoughts from knowledgeable people on how good this would be to eat during a ride. Anything good to add to this?


texts:
I am trying to disassemble a set of pedals to service them but I can't figure out what tool to use on the nut (see photo). I just need them temporarily until I can cycle to the bike co-op to change them, so if I can't get them apart, can I lubricate them somehow when they are still assembled so that they turn more easily? I have an aerosol grease I could just spray in.
Many thanks! Gill


texts: Can Someone Help Me ID This Marzocchi Fork?

texts:
I know it’s a Marzocchi, maybe a Dirt Jumper 3? but I’m trying to ID it so I can do a service and also would like to know the proper air pressure, which I can’t figure out without knowing what model it is.
There are no stickers on it, and there is an 05 stamp on the crown as well as the lowers, so I assume it is a 2005, but holy cow did Marzocchi make a ton of models that year. There are also the following stamps on the crown also.
3114A0209
T05D1223
They have quick releases, and the M shaped lowers crossbar and a slight M shape on the crown as well. Air valve in one side, and a rebound damper on that same side near the wheel.  On the left side of the fork there’s a knob with an adjuster that I assume locks out the fork or something.


texts: Can I swap from 46/36 chainrings to 36/28?

texts:
I ride a 2015 Cannondale CAADX (Sram Rival) which has an FSA Gossamer crankset fitted with 46/36 chainrings.  It has 5 bolts and a 110mm BCD.  I'm an old man with bad knees.  I never ride on the 46 ring, but I could surely use a granny gear.  Is it possible to swap my chainrings for a 36/28 pair, e.g., say a Vuelta SE Plus Chainrings 110mm BCD Black 36T and a Vuelta SE Plus Chainrings 74mm BCD Black 28T, or say these Sugino Chainrings?  Is there any reason (beside aesthetics) that I couldn't move my current inner 36T chainring to the outer position?  If the change is possible, do you recommend any particular chainrings to look at?

I realize that I will have to shorten the chain and possibly shift the front derailleur.  Is there anything else that I need to be aware of?  Thanks very much for any help!


texts: Are 26" racing wheels still being produced?

texts: It seems like all new road and triathlon bicycles are being made with 28" wheels and I've found it almost impossible to get 26" wheels for and older tri bike. Are they still being manufactured?


texts:
What do the symbols on tires mean for example
kenda nevegal
(54-559)
k1010-009
1113513C
/\ / 167  (/\ / symbol of two triangles)
NYLON
I want to find out when my tires should be replaced.
Thanks.


texts:
Bicycle keeps 'skipping a beat', especially when I exert more force, or go uphill. I don't know what you call this.

What is the problem and how can I resolve it?

Lubricating it helps get rid of the problem for a bit but soon it resurfaces.


texts:
I’m thinking to buy this bike. I usually ride mountain bikes and this is my first time looking for a touring bike. I only need something for ride on the roads to go school.

Could someone recommend me something??

Info:

10 Speed CCM Ladies Bicycle
25" Rims diameter
21" or 53cm Frame Size
Women's road bike sizing
Rider Height 55" - 58" / 165cm - 172cm
Frame Size 53cm - 55cm
Frame Size Medium


texts: Can the Garmin Edge 130 obtain heart rate from a fitness wrist-band?

texts:
I know that Garmin sells HR monitor chest band, but I'd prefer wearing a fitness band on the wrist, that can also measure HR (likely less accurate).
Would it be possible to connect the Garmin device with such a fitness band? I have searched for some hours but couldn't find any example for this.
(I haven't bought any gear yet, that's why the fitness band is not specific.)


texts: How many sprockets can I fit on a crank?

texts:
So, I have a pair of ambidextrous shifters on my bike. In other words, both shifters are ten-speed so that you can change the "handedness" of your handlebar if you want. This got me thinking, they could also be used for a 10x10 drivetrain.

So, how many speed chainring is achievable with reasonably off-the-shelf components, and what (if anything) would stop me from building a 100-speed bike, and at what point?


texts:
I've bought Bontrager Backrack light and I am thinking about different ways to mount it on my road bike.

Some details:

at the bottom the rack attaches to the quick release screw.
the tubes connecting the rack to the frame at the top are attached to the rack by a clamp as shown below. The clamp sits on top of a racks tube and the connecting tube is inserted through the holes. With tightening the screw we push the tubes together.
this clamp can be mounted on only one transversal tube, others are too wide.

I can attach the rack to the brake mount adapter or to a special seatpost clamp.

Questions 1 and 2

I prefer the seatpost clamp (pictures S1 and S2) since the brake mount adapter doesn't seem strong (I can rock the rack and bend the adapter, pictures B1 and B2).
Is there any downside to the seatpost clamp mounting, e.g. putting too much stress on that part of the frame?
Also, is the high angle of the tubes problematic?
The tube is only in an approximate position since I haven't bought the appropriate seatpost clamp.
The tube behind was left there from the brake adapter mounting.

Question 3:

Which orientation of the connecting tube is the best?
Obviously, I will cut the tubes to the correct length when done.


texts:
I got a cheap old bike I fixed up and I want to install a mid drive motor but the ones I found require a specific bottom bracket size and I don't know what size bottom bracket I have.

The wheels are 700 x 23


texts: Sprocket touching the biggest cog no matter B screw...how do I fix?

texts:
My Shimano rear derailleur was destroyed, for some reason got into the rear wheel, so I had to buy a new one. Hanger was a little misaligned but I think I fixed it.

I bought the new derailleur, changed cable and housing, the chain was pretty new.

All installed, checked L and H, and I noticed the derailleur was a little close to the cogs. but worked fine in all the 6 smaller cogs.

When I try to go into the biggest cog, no matter the B screw, the sprocket is touching the cogs (with the chain in between) making a weird noise and sometimes it cannot even get up there.

The first derailleur was a Shimano TY500 6-7 speed. I ordered another one, a Shimano Tourney RD-TY300 6/7-Speed  but is doing the same thing!

The rear cassette has a biggest cog of 34T

I'm running out of options... only I can think is replacing the hanger to see if that is the issue.


texts: Is the head angle on full suspension bikes given with or without sag?

texts: Is the head angle on a full suspension mountain bike measured with our without sag? I would imagine that the rear shock sagging would give a slacker head angle than what is measured without sag.


texts: My tube lose air once inside Tyre and mounted on wheel?

texts: I am getting this weird experience.My tube holds the air when removed from wheel and tyre but lose it once in tyre mounted on wheel.I removed it 4 times and checked for bubbles in water bucket.No puncture.Air holds even for days out side wheel and once it is inserted in Tyre ,mounted on wheel and pumped the air,it lose in a min .What could be the reason?Some ghost/spirit playing games?I am really puzzled .


texts: Crankset compatibility: Specialized Stout XC vs. SRAM GX 1000 GXP

texts:
I need to replace the crankset on my Specialized Rockhopper 29 Expert (year 2017) due to damage. I would prefer not to replace the BB to minimize the cost/effort.
The original crankset is described by Specialized as:

Specialized Stout XC, 2-piece 2x10, 24mm spindle, anti-corrosion
hardware``

and the BB as

BSA threaded, external bearing, 73mm width

I have concluded that since most of the drivetrain is SRAM (except of the rear derailleur weirdly), the crankset SRAM GX 1000 GXP would be a suitable replacement since it features 24 mm spindle, has the same 36/22T, the same BCD, setup and looks generally similar on pictures (yeah, I know).
Unfortunately, it fits pretty well, except of one minor detail - the shaft seems a bit too long and there is couple mm wiggle space left when I install the left crank. I have since learned that the BSA threaded is something else than BB30 that the SRAM GX 1000 GXP apparently features, even though they have the same radius. I am very confused by all the different parameters to watch for.
What I want to ask - is there an adapter for this? Or simpler - what should I buy that will fit the BB? Or is this is a lost case and I need a new BB? I do not really feel a need to upgrade the 2x10 setup and just want to fix the bike.
Thanks for help!
Edit: I have found here that the Shimano and Sram Threaded BBs differ. Since my spindle is 24 mm all the way, it is probably compatible with the Shimano system. Would e.g. COMET MODULAR CRANKSET work on my bike better then?


texts: What are the rim size options for fat bikes?

texts:
I recently purchased a fat bike through the internet, and found to my surprise, that it had 3" tires, and not 4" tires.

What are the common fat bike rim sizes, and tire sizes?  I'm primarily interested in width, as I am looking for a commuting bike to ride through a lot of snowy crud, and am looking for wheel/tire options to replace on this newly purchased bike.


texts: What is the best way to raise handle bars

texts:
I have bought a second hand 19 inch frame and I am normally used to a 20.5 inch.

The bike rides OK but I would benefit from raising the handlebars.

I have read about fork steerer tube extenders and adjustable bicycle stems.

I personally think the fork extender would be a better way, are there any advantages or disadvantages to either?


texts:
I've got an old Trek 1200 road bike circa 1995 with down tube shifters and mostly original components.  These days, I mostly ride it on my summer vacation on Martha's Vineyard where most of the riding is on pavement but occasionally I'll want to venture down a sandy road.

I currently have smooth 23 mm tires that I fill to 115 psi.  These are terrible on the sandy roads!

Can you recommend tires for a road bike that would do better on sandy roads?

UPDATE: These are sandy roads that cars and mountain bikes would have no problems going down.  It is a mixture of packed dirt and shallow sandy areas.  Sandy roads are not that long, no more than a mile here and there.

UPDATE2: I bought two of these 700x28 Kenda tires. This worked for the front but was too big for the back.  I'm going to return one and get a 700x25 for the back.  People on Amazon say these tires run big, so other 28 tires might work on this bike.


texts: So, I have an 80's raleigh bike, reassembled from spare parts.  I'm wondering what the best way to get more speed out of the bike is.  Wheels?  Gears?  Lighter gear? Different pedals? I'm rather fond of the frame, so I'd rather not replace that.


texts:
All,

I have a 2017 Scott Spark 720. It has 27.5 Plus Tires on it 2.8 maxis recon which I run at 16/18 psi (amazing traction).

I have been getting a lot of pedal strikes (In rocky/rooted turns, mild but annoying and throwing me off line) and have been considering purchasing a 29 inch wheel set to put 2.6 tires on it. I estimate that I would be running closer to 25 psi in them.

Approximately, how much would this increase my BB height by? I think if I could get 1-3 cm increase the pedal strikes would pretty much disappear.


texts: Kenlight Mountain bike that has Kenlight decals and a red white and blue metal Kenlight badge on the head tube. I was told it was may be from the 1980's.


texts:
So I've not cycled in a while but my step dad was using my bike and he has a habbit of breaking stuff. I have since decided to start cycling to work again and I replaced various parts due to rust etc (Chain, Cassette, brake pads, cables) and seeing as they didn't work properly in the first place I decided to take some time to tune the gears. Now I think I understand them but the issue I have is: On the cassette at the back the gears will happily and smoothly shift from 7 to 1 under load or not under load. But going from 1-7 it will ignore me when I switch to 2 but when I then go 2-3 it will skip over 2 and onto 3.

So the question is: Why does it work perfectly from 7-1 under any load but then under any load it will not go 1-2 but every other gear works? It's literally that 1 down to 2 that won't work.

Please take note that there is no grinding noise or anything when i flick from 1-2 it quite literally just ignores me and makes 100% no attempt to switch but it happily jumps over 2 to 3 when I flick down to 3.


texts: Determine Heartrate Zones with Sport Watches

texts:
I have read that the usual way to determine the maximum Heart Rate is to do a lactat test or so. Is it possible to determine Heart Rate Ranges with a watch only? I have read about the Ownzone functionality of Polar watches but could not find a valid review.
So, is this possible and reliable? And if so what is this functionality called so I can do a good google search for it.


texts: I have shifter with damaged housing. It shifts well, but I guess if housing is not repaied, rain and elements will quickly put an end to it. Which material would be suitable to fix this hole? Epoxy glues? Maybe ones with metal filler? Are there some sensitive parts in the damaged area that I should be carefull not to glue?


texts:
I've done a bit of research but can't seem to find much information on how neck braces actually work to protect the neck. There are many views on whether they are actually effective in reducing serious injuries (in the same way it took a long time for ski snow board helmets to be proven).

Neck Braces are a recommended safety item by the UCI for downhill events, unlike full face helmets which are mandatory, but all racers wear them.

What do they protect and how do they do that?


texts: Windsor - The Hour - Bottom Bracket Dimensions

texts: I'm looking to replace the bottom bracket in my Windsor "The Hour" since I'm buying  a new crank set for my bike.  What are the dimensions for the bottom bracket: both shell width and shaft length?  I can take the bottom bracket out to measure it, but I would rather only do it once while installing the new parts.


texts: Are braking vibrations a sign of the end of the life of a wheel?

texts:
My mountain commuter (2008 Schwinn High Timber) has picked up a vibration in the front wheel under braking.  I'm worried that this is a sign that the rim is end of life.  I checked the V-brakes and they do have some slight play front to back (about a 1 mm at the top of the brake arms), but the bolts for them are still tight.  I have found a few spots on the wheel that looks like a pit, or possibly environmental damage, but not enough of them to justify the vibration.

Is it possible that a rim will warp into a wavy pattern (I highly doubt it)?

This rim does not have a wear indicator when new, but will they put something in the rim that will be exposed when worn?

It is a Alex "X101" (best geuss) Rim single wall alloy, but since it is a BSO OEM, it isn't listed on the website.  I have put 15000 km on it with 2/3 of it being daily commuting.   My commute home involves braking from speeds of 50 kph for red lights and a turn on a 3.5 km stretch.  I have to ride the brakes for a short but steep downhill section while escorting the kids home.  The wheel is still true and the bearings are in good shape.  I'm on my 3rd set of brake pads (oem, over the counter bike shop, and now KoolStop dual compounds used for 2000km).  I'm a all weather rider, but I keep the bike clean.  I don't get to ride in nasty slushy snow, but roads are heavily salted here that will linger for weeks.

I'm planning on changing the wheels out anyways here in a few months for other reasons, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to kill myself in the mean time.


texts: What is the make and model of this 16" kids bike?

texts: I've seen this picture in one of the Facebook groups and was curious to what the brand is and model. I found a lot of close makes but not the actual bicycle on internet and gave up after searching for hours.


texts: Practical way to park many bicycles in one garage for everyday use?

texts:
I have seven bicycles, four of my personal use, and three for each one of my wife, stepson and nephew, all of them adult-sized.

My lifestyle involves one or two short daily commutes and a lot of daily errands with one of three bikes (cargo with rack and fenders, wide-tire full suspension, and skinny tire fixie, depending on mood). Eventually my stepson wants to ride and takes his bike out, but this is like once a week. And my nephew takes her bike once a month or less. My wife usually goes out with me on the weekends, so we take her bake and one of mines out).

In my former home, I stored all of them "stacked" beside one another inside the house, so when I had to take one of them, usually I should move all the bikes in front of it, take the desired one out, then put others back, usually ending up with often-used bikes behind less used bikes. That made the youngsters sometimes give up on a short leisure ride out of sheer (justifiable) lazyness to take their bike from behind the "stack"

Recently, I moved to an apartment that has a garage, measuring like 3 meters wide by five meters deep, and about 3,5 meters tall, so now I am free to use it to organize the bikes, plus some cabinets with tools, hooks for the helmets, a tool hanger in a wall, etc.

So the question is - do any of you suggest a way to organize the parking of these bikes in a way that:

Makes the everyday bikes very quick to take in and out for me, and the less used ones easy enough so the young ones don't have to think twice about the mess when they feel like taking a ride;
Completely avoids the need to hang or lift the bike. I am sure there is enough space so that moving the bikes around can be achieved by rolling them, either forwards or backwards;
[edit] The bikes' positions could very well be swappable, since there is seasonal variation on the most used bike;
Possibly requires the need to move the bikes around a bit to take one of them, for example using two or three stacks of bikes, or whatever.

Here is a poor photo of the actual garage with the bikes already in it, but surrounded by a lot of junk, some of which will be taken out, some of which will be rearranged in cabinets, drawers, etc. (for size reference, the old doors in the back are leaning against the wall). Notice the stacked configuration on the right, where one of the bikes leans against the wall, and the others lean against it successively. I would like to avoid or at least streamline that.


texts: What makes a mixte frame? Further, what's the etymology of 'mixte'?


texts: How much mountain biking experience is needed for Goat Canyon Trestle Bridge via Carrizo Gorge Road?

texts:
Goat Canyon Trestle Bridge via Carrizo Gorge Road is a 16mi round trip out and back trail that I guess runs along some disused train tracks.
My question is: how much mountain biking experience is needed to do this trip?
I could hike it but that would be one of the longest single day hikes I've ever done. I ride bikes on sidewalks and paved roads, from time to time, but I've never mountain biked before.


texts: How much do components really matter for a non-competitive rider?

texts:
I do not ride competitively, but plan on doing some longer distance rides (30+ miles).
I've read that better components are lighter, run more smoothly, and last longer. Out of those three categories, durability (lasting longer) is the only one that really matters for me, as long as the components don't break all the time and get the job done.
Are the main advantages of high end components the reduced weight and smoother operation, or are they significantly more durable as well?


texts: Removing WD40 from disk brakes - possible?

texts:
So I was stupid enough to get a fair bit of WD40 on my disk brakes. I tried cleaning them by removing the wheel, cleaning the disk (with soap) and to spray soap in between the brake pads and wiping it with a small cloth.

However, the brakes still squeak like crazy. Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this?

I went to a bike shop and they told me I would also need to replace the rotor disks, is this true?


texts: Is taking a bike TRAILER on SF Bay Area Rapid Transit permitted?

texts:
My partner and I were considering purchasing a Burley Travoy (http://www.burley.com/products/cargo-utilities/travoy.cfm).  We thought we might do this because we like to get groceries at Rainbow in San Francisco sometimes, though we live across the Bay in Oakland.  It seemed like the Travoy would be easier to get on an off the train (with a bike) and easier to keep out of the path of other passengers than our Burley Flatbed...  but is this even allowed?  It says NOTHING about trailers in any of the BART literature.

Is there anyone out there who has tried taking a trailer on BART?  Did you get hasseled?  Are there other transit systems that have a policy on bike trailers?


texts:
Currently, on every other day I commute to work which is a distance of 18km each way. I enjoy this ride but next year I may be moving to a place which will be about 35km from work. Questions:

1) Would it still be reasonable to commute this kind of distance each way once I have moved?

2) Google maps estimates that this distance would take 2 hours to complete. Would it be possible (depending on the bike and fitness) to do this distance in about an hour?


texts: How do I make sure my bike's the proper size?

texts: I recently received a used road bike. I took it to a bike shop where they told me the seat and handlebars had to be raised for my height, so I had them make the adjustments. I now have trouble getting on and off my bike, and when I have to stop my feet barely touch the ground. Would these be indicators that my bike's the wrong size for my height?


texts: Suggestions for braking with severe osteoarthritis in both hands

texts:
I have severe osteoarthritis in both my hands and have had to give up cycling as I am unable to squeeze the brakes for safety. Are there any available options for braking, as I would like to get back on my bicycle for exercise?
I have a Cannondale road bike and have travelled around a lot of Europe on this bike. The handlebars have been raised to a high level allowing no pressure on my thumbs that are the most painful.


texts: Are 52/34 chainrings compatible with an 11/32 11speed cassette

texts: Im thinking of buying a Scott Addict 20 supplied with  Ultegra 52/36 rings and 11 speed 11/30 cassette. Could I change this to 52/34 rings and 11/32 cassette?If not would 52/34 and 11/30 be a compatible combination?


texts:
Let me preface by saying that this may not be the right SE. I considered asking on the Physics SE, but I thought I might try here first. If it is wrong, I am not against it being migrated.

From basic principles of Physics, power is computed as Work/time. So consider a rider and bike system climbing a hill. The work done is the difference in potential from bottom to top, and obviously the time will be climb-time.

Now, my question is:

  Given the same rider, same bike weight, and same climb-time, does your gearing affect power? Also assume that the climb is efficient, no slipping tires, normal pedaling, etc.

From a physical perspective, I expect the answer is no. Same difference in potentials, same time, same power. However, from the rider perspective, I know that it sure feels like a lot more power is being used to climb with a harder ratio.

I expect that the answer is that the disparity comes from idealizing the system. If we consider the bike a closed system, we expect that all the energy put into the bike carries it up the hill, but this is not the case. Moreover I think the inefficiency of the human body will be relevant. However, I still cannot resolve the question.


texts: What kind of bike is this, found in basement

texts:
i got these pictures from my dad, can someone tell from what era this bike is? And is this something valuable/rare?
The owner died last year, he was 86. Lived in flanders, belgium.

Any help would be more than welcome


texts: How did I strip my crank arm with a crank puller?

texts:
I'd decided to remove the FSA Tempo square-taper crankset of my 1-year-old road bike to measure & replace its bottom bracket as it's clunking and has little lateral play. The non-drive side crank arm was stripped when I tried removing it with a crank puller, at which I immediately stopped and also gave up removing the drive-side crank to avoid risking further damage.

(Crank Puller)

What could've gone wrong? I first threaded the tool by hand without cross-threading and tightened using a wrench to engage the threads fully into the arm.

Edit: Is it just that the 3-piece crankset is badly designed that there's a high-risk of stripping aluminium crank arms?


texts: Have replaced v-brakes and they still squeak. What to do?

texts:
I think I've read every post here about V-brake squeal, as well as the popular ones on the Sheldon Brown site, the Park Tools guide and so forth - but I seem to have a brake squeal that just won't abate, and I'd like a 2nd (and 3rd and 4th opinion) before I replace the last few components I haven't yet replaced.

I've a Trek 7.3 hybrid bike, around 2009 vintage - it has a 700C Bontrager alloy rim and Avid Single Digit 3 v-brakes (which I believe are OEM only). About 9 months after owning it and riding about 8 kilometres a day 4 days a week it developed a brake squeal at the front - strangely the back brakes have never been a problem and they work really well. "No problem," I thought, and I cleaned the rim (using a steelo/600grit sandpaper) and toed in the brakes slightly - which fixed it adequately, although temporarily. This process is something I've repeated over the last few years - eventually replacing the worn down pads with a few different styles of cartridge pad.

But the squeal has been steadily growing to the point where the I needed stupid amount of toe to stop it - which really just gave me brakes with questionable efficacy. I eventually swapped to a Kool Stop pads - though again this fix was temporary.

Being a 700C wheel, I toyed with going to the style of brakes most road bikes have - but I lack the appropriate mounting hole in the front forks - and the tools with which to make one.

Noting that there was a reasonable amount of play in the bushes on each brake arm (they're integral to the arm), I bit the bullet and ordered a set of Avid Single Digit 7 brakes, to replace the brakes on the bike. Pulling the old brakes off I noticed the brake bosses on the frame appeared to be bent - so I replaced those too. I cleaned the daylights out of the rim, again with steelo, a quick run over with 600grit sandpaper and an application of automotive brake cleaner to remove any oil (it seems to be a lot cheaper than isopropyl alcohol here and appears to work well - also, I had some close at hand). I also make sure I clean the surface of the pads removing any grit and give them a with once-over with a clean bit of sandpaper.

Following a number of guides, I installed and set up the new brakes and they are excellent for the most part; the arms are meatier and have far less flex in them and the return adjustment, and adjustment in general, seems to be easier setup and control.

But they still squeal, loudly - in the dry, in the wet, night and day. And granted, terrifying j-walking pedestrians with the noise can be fun - but I don't think it's doing me any favours.

So given that I've replaced the brake bosses, the brake arms, the brake pads and removed cleaned, re-greased and refitted the forks - that really only leaves the rim.

Do I replace the rim, or do I just deal with the squeaking? Or have I missed something really obvious?

An update on my progress.

Replaced the front wheel with a 2nd hand one in excellent condition (having been recently respoked and trued) - some sort of lightweight Ritchey thing. The wheel had been used by a chap who'd commuted a decent distance on it every day and had had no problems with squeal.

I cleaned the rim with 600 grit glasspaper, then automotive brake cleaner and a steelo, wiped clean with paper towel. I then cleaned it with methylated spirits and again wiped it clean with a paper towel. This removed all the old traces of brake pad grit and oil and let me check that the surface of the rim was flat.

I took off the Avid cartridge pads supplied with the Single Digit 5 brakes and, after cleaning them up with sand paper and a wipe of methylated spirits, put the Koolstop single  compound 'orange' pads back on.

Adjusted the brakes to make sure they sat on the rim properly (they're slightly thicker than the Avid pads).

And still it squeals!

Sadly, I'm thinking I just have one of those very resonant frames.

The next step is the replace the forks - but I'm in no rush to that anytime soon give the cost.

I'm still wondering if I've missed something obvious!


texts:
Last year I bought a used wheel set on marketplace from a guy that rides off-road/trail.
He said they were strong and since I intended to put an electric motor w/assist on the bike I figured it couldn't hurt to have a stronger wheel on front.
They are for 26" tires, according to him at the time, and they were/are very light and clean, but they measure 1 and 7/8 inches wide, compared to a regular wheel that measures (approx) 1.5 inches wide.
They are made by "Panther" but I can't find anything relative to them on the 'net, and I can no longer find his contact information.
Can anyone tell me what these wheels were intended for?
Will they take a wider tire than a "normal" rim takes (I was hoping also to put a 26x2.5 tire on them)?
I'd like to read/learn more about these rims.
If anyone can "catch me up", or direct me to where I can learn more I would be really appreciated.
Thank you


texts: This is a cheapo Chinese freewheel, probably from a Walmart bicycle, etc. It's unusually heavy compared to my mountain bike's freewheel. I'm just trying to see if I can disassemble it. It's a learning experiment.  I've already figured out how remove the freewheel from the hub, and the gears (chain-rings) from the freewheel-hub assembly.  Now I'm trying to unscrew the central ring that allows access to the freewheel bearings and pawls. I can tell it's reverse threaded,  so I'm turning it the CW direction.  I have a pin tool for that spacing (which I normally use for bottom brackets), but the pins are too short to access the central ring's holes, b/c that central ring is recessed below the hub that the chain-rings slide over.  I've trying whacking a screwdriver tangentially in the CW direction, holding the tip against a hole. I get good purchase, not slipping, but the ring won't budge.  I've tried this with the freewheel installed on the wheel, and with it off the wheel & secured to the bench, locked in place with the freewheel tool and a wrench. I've never had any problems removing that ring on any other freewheel, it's just a bearing cone after all,  so what's up? Any ideas?


texts: Why do current mountain bikes have such steep top tube? Comparing my Kona Blast 2001 vs 2019

texts:
I am very curious about the geometries of mountain bikes nowadays (or probably since a while back).

They all seem to have very tilted top tube .. compare my Kona Blast 2001 vs 2019

Kona Blast 2001

Kona Blast 2019

For the newer bike that fits well when riding .. have tendency to be hitting my crouch when I dismount somehow.


texts:
I do realize this question is asked a lot and I have looked around but I find my self still struggling with it, for that I apologize.

Recently I decided to commute to work and so I bought a Giant Escape 3, this works fine for my 30 mile round trip ride (Route: http://goo.gl/VxWcHe). I work in IT and so I generally have a laptop, tablet, an assortment of chargers and other materials with me. I estimate that my load is probably around 15 lbs and is 20-25 lbs when I commute with my hobby items.

This bag just isn't working for me, it hurts when I lean forward and causes to much sweat on my back because of no ventilation. I am trying to figure out a bag that would work for my needs whether it is a backpack, messenger, or pannier. If it is a pannier it needs to be able to go onto my back when I am not commuting, and if it is a backpack/messenger I would like it to have some form of ventilation for the back. If possible I am trying to keep the price under or around $100 but I understand I may have to shill out more so I believe my limit for price is around ~$150.

Once again I am sorry for this long post, and often repeated question, but I have issues when it comes to choices (consumer wise) unless there is an obvious winner and I just can't seem to figure out a winner even with the pros and cons posted.

EDIT: Also I live on Oahu, Hawaii. If it isn't raining it is most likely very hot and very humid. Normally I am biking home while it is still 80F+ and 50%+ humidity.


texts: Can my Schwinn Meridian adult tricycle (one speed) with handle front an rear brakes be converted to coaster brake? Local bike shops have said yes if I could find a Schwinn conversion kit I have search on line and cannot find a source. Thank you!