texts: Replacing a normal hub with a dynamo hub

texts:
I'm the owner of a Kona Sutra 2017. I'm pretty happy with this bike, but I'm looking to get a dynamo hub for it, with some lights and maybe a charger for my phone.

So far I managed to figure out that the front hub is a Deore HB-M525A.

This would require me to find something that supports a disc brake with 6 holes and 32 spokes.

My candidates are:

DH-3D32 DISC HUB DYNAMO

And that's about the only one I can find that would fit, sure there are one from SON, but the price is a factor x7.

This a valid option for me, and what kind of lightning would fit this dynamo? It seems like it's a bit hard for me to find these parts.


texts: What is the correct way to close roll-down Ortlieb panniers?

texts:
What is the correct way to close Ortlieb Front Roller or Back Roller panniers?

There's a black plastic piece of plastic near the opening on the bag that is facing back if it is opened and unrolled that suggests to me that there is a correct direction. Should I roll them toward the back of the bag so the tab is covered with the very first roll or toward the front? Does it matter?


texts: How can I properly identify Cannondale Bad Boy 1 year model?

texts: I'm looking to purchase a Cannondale Bad Boy 1 through Craigslist, owner not entirely sure which year model, how can I identify which year is it?


texts: The spring in my front dérailleur is jammed

texts: My front derailleur is jammed by dirt (grease + fine dust), because of this the gear doesn't shift perfectly and chain is thrown off the cog. The spring is a bit unreachable because the derailleur arm comes in the way. How should I clean the spring and protect it from jamming again.


texts:
This is 700x25 continental Ultra Sport II

I noticed there are two holes in both tires, and wonder if this is a manufacturing fault, or simply a wear indicator?


texts: How can I print a map with my GPS track?

texts:
I have tracks from a bike tour in GPX format. Is there an easy way to create printable topo maps with these tracks? Waypoints should be visible and labelled as well.

QGIS might be an option, but it's very technical and the print features are limited. Any other suggestions?


texts: Tips for participating in a large organized ride

texts:
Organized rides are popular and seem to be increasing in popularity around the world. The rides are usually charity and fundraising rides, and are generally supported in some fashion. Typically, the support includes food/rest stops and mechanical support. These rides are where you have 1000 - 2000+ bicycle riders, on the same route, at ALL skill levels.

How should one anticipate for, and adapt to this type of ride?

Prepare to be outraged, but there was this as well...http://obra.org/posts/obra/show/74957

Here's the deal via Bike Portland.


texts: What should I consider when buying a saddle?

texts:
My current saddle is starting to show its age and isn't as comfortable as I'd like on longer rides. I am considering buying a new one.

Obviously saddles differ in price and weight, but what other aspects should I look at when buying a new saddle?

For example, I've see Fizik adverts that suggest people should buy a saddle suited to their level of flexibility, with pictures of people attempting to touch their toes. Is this something I should consider?


texts: Which traffic light do I have to follow?

texts:
There is one situation in Bonn, Germany, where the buses have their own lane (right one) and the cars are separate (left lane). The cars have a regular traffic light (red, yellow, green) and the buses have their special kind (white bars, — and |). It looks like this:

The interesting thing is that the cyclist are supposed to take the bus lane, so they are on the right lane. One can see that right after the traffic light there is a dashed line parallel to the road that marks the bike area on the road.

The traffic light obviously aids the buses and cars merge again to a single lane. As a cyclist, I am not really sure what to do:

I could abide the car traffic light. It is the traffic light that I have been taught to read in school (elementary school, actually) and is the official one for car drivers as well. However, when the car traffic light is green, I have a harder time merging with the cars.
Use the bus traffic light because it is in my lane. It make also most sense since the traffic light is for merging the two lanes. But I cannot really read the traffic light, I just assume that the three lights correspond to red, yellow, and green. If a bus was right behind me, he would have to pass me if I waited for the car traffic light to switch to green again. This doesn't make any sense, I should just free up the bus/bike lane.
Ignore both lights. In every case I can just slowly merge with the car lane as I see fit. Usually one of the lights is on “Go”.

Every time I pass this place, I am a bit uneasy whether I am doing the right thing. I just carefully watch for traffic and merge with the car lane when there aren't any cars around. I'd like to know what the correct behavior for this situation would be.


texts: My child seems to have difficulties riding bike - would different tires help?

texts:
My son is 6 years old, weighs about 20kg himself. The bike we have for him is this Merida Matts J20 which weighs about 13kg.
His riding skills are fine but I get the feeling he's not comfortable on the bike. He often raises himself from the seat and rarely rides in a straight line, which frequently leads to minor accidents.
We're not going fast - about 10km/h average - but it seems he still needs a lot of effort to keep going. The bicycle just doesn't seem to have nearly as much inertia as everyone else. This results in him standing up to deliver more power to the pedals and the aforementioned swerving when going too slow.
And sure, the mass and its distribution is definitely a factor here; as well as him being easily distracted and not paying full attention to the road, but... feels like it should still be better than it is.
I've tried spinning the wheels but they seem to be moving freely (although the rear wheel does slow down a bit faster than I would expect, but perhaps that's normal). The tire pressure also seems normal, but I'll check tomorrow with a meter.
I'm wondering if perhaps tires could be a significant factor? They have a large protector like for off-road usage and we're riding almost exclusively on paved sidewalks:

Would the bike handle better with smoother tires? Are there any other tips you might share that could help? Or is this just par for the course with 6 year olds?

Update
I increased the tire pressure to 3.5 bar (was below 2) and raised the seat by a few cm. This seems to have made a significant difference and he is riding better now. I also checked with a LBS that the rear wheel was turning normally. He still likes to raise himself from the seat but is now riding with less swerving and seems to require less effort. Here's a picture, maybe there's something else that can be gleaned:


texts: 11-46 cassette with 48 chainring for commute bike

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I'm building a new commute bike.  Would like to consider the idea of using single chainring with 11-46 cassette.  Looking at the ratio, 48 front with 46 rear should give me the climbing option I need.  What is the disadvantage of this setup vs 2x11 or 2x10?

I'm getting similar overall range. There are big jumps, but that doesn't bother me as much.  I'm thinking the catch would the shifting experience. (i.e., shifting with 11-46 cassette might not be as smooth as 105's 11-34)   Is that it?


texts: How do so many bicycles end up in the canals of Amsterdam?

texts:
I heard this peculiar story about 20,000 bicycles are fished from the canals.

Found a video that show how its fished out

It's tragic, why can't they be recycled?


texts: What is the process of adding a light to a Yamaha PW equipped ebike?

texts:
I recently got a bike with a Yamaha PW system. The bike computer has a light on/off button but the bike itself has no light and I want to add one. How do I do this? From what I understand, I need a light cable, some sort of crank pulling tool to open the motor, plus the light itself.

My question is where can I learn about the detailed procedure for doing this?


texts: Which derailleur should I use with a Shimano 7 speed freewheel 14-34T megarange?

texts: Which derailleur should I use with a Shimano 7 speed freewheel 14-34T megarange in order to prevent the derailleur from rubbing the cassette in 2nd.


texts: How can you recognise a quality steel frame?

texts:
I'm looking to buy/build a road bike and I would like it to:

last 100 years
have a low environmental cost

As I'm not interested in shedding grams (a diet would be more helpful for me), I'm leaning towards a steel frame. But steel frames are often cheaply manufactured, and the price is slowly starting to reflect trendiness than quality.

How do I recognise a high quality new or used steel frame? Are there simple things to look for when weeding out the poorly made or overpriced frames?


texts: Kids bike front wheel falls to the side while on kickstand

texts:
My daughters bike's front wheel doesn't stay straight when it is on the kickstand. Our other 2 bikes only slightly go to the left but her front end "falls" to the left like something is loose. Hopefully I'm explaining the problem enough.

EDIT: Visually I don't care. It just never used to do that. And my daughters say it seems to feel shake/wobbly now. They don't like to ride it because of that.  The bike does not fall over while using the kickstand.


texts:
I've just bought a used road bike. after I arrived home I noticed one of the chain ring teeth was snapped.

I have a spare flat bar bike which I believe to be much newer than the one I bought.

Because of that and the snapped tooth I've had the idea of replacing the parts with parts from my old bike, rather than investing in a new chain ring.

Can you give me your thoughts please?

More images at
http://imgur.com/a/w5IZr


texts:
I bike commute and just moved to a tiny third floor walk up. I was willing to give up some of my precious space to store the bike, but it turns out that the narrowness and curvature of the stairs makes it extremely difficult to get the bike up and down. If I was going to store the bike outside, what is the safest way to do so in terms of lock configurations? There's a thick lamp post that I can see from my apartment that I'm considering locking it to. Thanks!

EDIT: The bike is fairly expensive (~$1000) and I use it for both commuting and amateur triathlon racing, so I don't think a folding bike is an option. The cellar of my building is even less accessible than my apartment. Based on everyone's advice, sounds like making some small modifications to get it up the stairs and stored safely is the way to go.


texts:
I recently had a Shun SS-8001 crankset fail. When taking it apart, I saw that the right pedal has a sort of stop ring that prevents the pedal, presumably, from unscrewing itself:

Now I need to find a replacement and I have no idea what this part is called. The pedal itself has a 35mm thread; this part seems to have a thread but also a tightening bolt. What keyword should I be searching for?


texts: Gear shift wire on SRAM after an accident

texts:
Took a pretty good fall after narrowly avoiding being hit by a speeding driver in the middle of a two lane road.

Managed to get the chain assembly back together but can’t figure out where this wire goes. Please see the following picture

https://imgur.com/a/sJMwhVJ


texts: How can I find a biking club that has a group for riding with kids in a trailer? I prefer to ride in a group.


texts: Commuter bike for better performance: less weight, or internal gear-hub?

texts:
Background

I commute daily to work, the ride is about 10 km each way, across the city. The path is mostly streets with intersections, and a few long cycling lanes. Some hills here and there: Strava cycling app says 'Elevation Gain' is 80m.

I'm currently riding a Trek Valencia hybrid bike (2011), it's getting a bit old, and I'd like to replace it. I'm looking for the same kind of acceleration / responsiveness / sporty ride, but possibly getting me to make less effort to get the same performance (or get earlier at work).

Options

I want hydraulic disk brakes, good quality gear set, and rather an aluminum frame.

I checked what local bike shops recommend, and I'm now hesitating between two options. Unfortunately, trying the bikes is not an option, as no shop has them in stock.

Stevens Strada 900 (2019)

product page

It has quality components and is lightweight. I'll need to add mudguards and a rear carrier though, so it will be a bit heavier than the announced 9.4 kg.

Gears: 2 x 11 Shimano Ultegra R8000

Cube Editor black'n'purple (2019)

product page

This one looks interesting to me because of the belt drive. This would make the rides smoother, and avoid loss of efficiency in the long run.

Gears: Alfine 11 gear hub

Questions

I read posts with figures about the gear ranges of both systems, but I'm having trouble getting a clear picture. Some articles: stackExchange post, internal gear rations measurement, this post and that one.

How likely am I to get in situations where the speeds of the Alfine 11 gear hub don't switch correctly anymore?
Are the 2 kg less from the Stevens likely to make a noticeable difference in terms of energy efficiency?
Will any of the bikes above provide a range of speeds comparable with what I currently have (mid-end 3 x 8 derailleur)? I had the opportunity to try a bike equipped with a Shimano Nexus 8 gear hub, and there were definitely not enough 'high' speeds. This would prevent me from riding fast enough on flat lanes, or downhill.

Or to summarize, perhaps: more lightweight bike with derailleur or Alfine 11 gear hub, which would you recommend for my use case?

Any input and tips appreciated.

Thanks,

P.S.I also read the answers to How to improve my performance on a commute? and will probably follow some of the recommendations in there, like getting clipless pedals.


texts: Bike type suggestion for packed limestone trails

texts:
Where I live (Ontario, Canada), I am lucky enough to have access to a number of packed limestone trails (former railways). These are fairly flat and great for bicycling. They are mixed use, so sometimes they are very uneven - mostly from dried up horse tracks or farming machinery.

I am currently using a cheap supermarket bike; the ride is really bumpy and uncomfortable at times. I was thinking of upgrading to a proper mountain bike, but I am wondering if that would be overkill as the trails are pretty flat. Should I go with a bike with front suspension only, or both front and back? Any suggestions are appreciated.

I also have a hybrid bike (Specialized Sirius Sport) but the thin tires and clip-in pedals make it less than ideal for those trails and I feel like I am damaging it.


texts: Is storing bikes in an enclosed trailer a good idea?

texts: I too am running out of space in my house to store my bikes.  I have three bikes inside my house and my 5 kids bikes are outside in a shed (which is also over crowded).  My idea is to buy a 6X12 enclosed trailer to store our bikes and modify it to also be like a bike shop.  We take our bikes everywhere.  My concern though is keeping the bikes in an environment that is not controlled.  Although they will be completely sealed off from rain, etc., they will still be exposed to varying temperatures and humidity.  Does anyone think storing these bikes in a trailer is a good idea?


texts: My left STI shifter has 5 positions for a double crankset?

texts:
I'm in the process of installing my Shimano Tiagra left shifter for the front derailleur on my double crank and I'm a bit confused, the indicator shows it has 5 positions for a crank with only 2 chainrings (double), when using common sense says it should only have 3.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Shimano-Tiagra-2x9-STI-shifter-brake-levers-/300924155393?pt=US_Shifters&hash=item46107a3601

Depressing the large lever one click from the inner ring should put the front derailleur into the trim position, and depressing the large lever a full two click puts the chain onto the outer ring. Shouldn't that be it?


texts: What are the advantages of having more than one bike?

texts:
I have decided to keep my Norco Yorkville even though I weigh 265 pounds.
That is well over the manufacturer's limit even without cargo like groceries. I have just upgraded the rear wheel due to the original breaking spokes. Next year the front wheel gets the same treatment.
If I got a fat bike it could be relegated to cargo duty with the added bonus of being able to ride in the snow. I live in Canada and
riding my bike was an adventure today.

What I want to know is if there are other advantages to having two bikes.


texts: Did the Giant Trinity A1 come with a derailleur hanger?

texts:
I am putting a bike together and have it all apart but don't see the derailleur hanger anywhere.  Did I lose it or did the bike not come with it?  If it didn't come with it, why not?

Thanks.


texts: Carbon bike for commuting - concerns about durability

texts:
I have been riding an aluminium frame hybrid bike for 20+ years and it is coming to the end of its life. Having tested a couple of carbon hybrid bikes and been very impressed with the responsiveness of the ride I'm considering taking the plunge - something like a Canyon Roadlite or Trek FX  tick most of the boxes. It will be used primarily on my short (5 mile) but hilly commute, as well as longer weekend rides.

I've read several posts that discuss the fatigue and impact resistance of carbon frames vs aluminium vs steel, and I have a couple of specific concerns that I haven't found addressed in detail elsewhere:

I am concerned about possible damage caused by securing a carbon frame with a D-lock (== U-lock). I store a pair of D-locks at my workplace where we have semi-vertical bike racks. I will not be mounting the locks on the frame. However, it was suggested both by a mechanic in my LBS and Canyon's online chat assistant not to let the lock rest on the frame. This is suprising - each lock is insulated with thick plastic and weighs perhaps 1.5 kilos.  I thread one lock through the front wheel and let it rest on the down tube, and use the other one to secure the back wheel to the stand.  I wouldn't expect a carbon frame to have any trouble bearing a small load such as this, as long as there is no forceful impact when locking/unlocking (or of course from accidental damage from others removing their bikes). From what I've read it takes a major impact such as a crash or forceful hits with a hammer to cause impact damage.
I've read a few posts suggesting carbon bikes are less suitable for commuting for several reasons (harder to fit racks and mount locks; more alluring to thieves), bit also due to the weather conditions they will face. As I'm based in the UK there will be no shortage of rain and roughly half my commute is on roads. Road salt is known to corrode aluminium over a long time, but are there similar concerns with carbon, or is it just people being more protective of carbon bikes because they're more expensive?

Thank you.


texts: Hydraulic disc brake clicks once when I pull the brake lever and the braking force is very bad

texts: I have a brand new Trek Marlin 5 (1-2 months old) with hydraulic disc brakes and the rear brake doesn’t work well and when I pull the brake lever, it clicks once somewhere in the frame (cables inner routed).


texts:
I have a fixie and I'm finding the rear wheel slips forward when riding (horizontal dropouts), causing the chain to loosen and thus a sub-optimal riding experience. It's not enough to be critical, just annoying.

I have the bolts extremely tight on the frame with the chain taut, but it still slips a little when riding. I'm wondering if there are any tricks out there to solve this problem, or if I'm doing something wrong?


texts: Anecdotally, I see a lot of bike mechanics on the Internet use ball socketed allen wrenches. Is there an objective reason to using them over the 'regular' hex allen wrenches? Are there particular tasks or scenarios that make one style of wrench better than the other (e.g., prevent marring, or stripped socket hole)?


texts:
Update... What should I actually do on the test drive? The LBS has been kind enough to allow me to try out a brand new bicycle.

What things should I consider when test riding bikes that I am considering for purchase at a LBS? And what should my procedure be while on the test ride? Also plan to test ride between 2 - 5 similarly priced bikes.

This will be a hybrid (urban) bike intended for daily commuting. The LBS will do some minimal adjustments prior to the test ride, so how do I determine if it's a good/bad selection vs needing customized adjustments/fitting?


texts: How do I find the brand/make of a bike wheel? I have been given a free bike in great condition except the front wheel is damaged. I need to replace it but can't find any markings to state what make it is.


texts: I am having trouble identifying the manufacturer of this bike

texts: What brand is this logo? Can anyone identify this?


texts: Is 25 km/h average speed good? What speed should I aim for?

texts:
So, I recently got into road cycling and have been riding for a few weeks. My average speed for most of my rides is around 25 km/h for the first 40 km and drops to 15 or 20 km/h for the next 20 or 30 km. I want to know if the speed that I'm riding at is considered as "slow" or "walking pace" or is the speed that I'm going at pretty good. I'm not sure what speed I should be aiming at.

Note:

I am preparing for long distance rides, mostly flats more than 80 km. So I want to know what speed I should be aiming for, not to win, but the speed that one should ideally be at.


texts: Switching from straight handle bar to drop down - which dual control lever would fit?

texts:
I am currently looking for ways to modify my bike.

I do have a straight handlebar equipped and I‘d like to switch to a drop down road bike handlebar. My drivetrain is built mostly from Shimano SLX parts

MT600 36/26 Crank (2S)
SLX M7020 Front Derailleur (2S)
SLX M7000 11-42 (11S)
Deore XT M8000 GS Rear Derailleur (11S)
BR-MT200 Disc Brake
SLX M7000 Shift Levers

I'm  having troubles figuring out which drop down brake shift Levers (aka dual control lever) from the Tiagra or Sora series could work with those parts (2x11 and disc brake). Is there any possibility at all upgrading the shift levers without changing anything else in the drivetrain? I‘d like to stay with Shimano parts, if possible.

Kind regards


texts: Does rebuilding a hub increase efficiency?

texts:
I was recently helping a friend build a bike from scratch, and one of the first things he did was to inspect the hub to check that the wheel was rotating smoothly. He was adjusting the cone and lock nuts.

How large (or small) of an efficiency boost do you see from such adjustments? I'm a commuter using a single-speed daily -- if I were to rebuild my hub and do the same adjustments, would I see a significant improvement?

Sorry for the newbie question! Thanks in advance.


texts:
Really, I have two questions.
But first, I see no place to put a wrench on this hub.
Well, there is one small notch on one side on the dust cap (on the other side).
How do I get this hub apart?  It's wobbly and I want to repack it.

The other problem, of course, is the several metal damage from my cassette.  Once I get it apart, I can see if it's possible to replace that part... we'll see.

Really, I'm just looking for the proper procedure to get this thing apart!

thanks!


texts: What's this part of the bike, and is it safe to alter it?

texts:
The video shows someone installing a gps bike tracker, however there is not much room in the top of the head tube, so he hammers down what's already in there in order to make room for the tracker.

In this video, (starting at 1 minute 30 seconds)

I wanted to make a custom gps tracker for my bike as I'm into electronics, but I have no idea what this 'hammering' does. What is this part he's altering? And is it safe to do so?


texts:
I have just bought a double effect hand pump (a BETO CLD-024NAG) without knowing what to expect. I was very surprised to discover that the pump inflates the tire both when I push and when I pull. How does it work?

Also, the barrel of the pump is at the rear instead of the front (by front I mean where the valves and the manometer are) - is this related to the double effect?


texts: Can I upgrade to Synchro shifting on a 10s Di2 bike? (Ultegra 6770)

texts:
I bought a second hand bike with an existing Ultegra DI2 6770 groupset, which is a 10-speed group.  I would like to upgrade the components required in order to have syncro shift on it.

As far as I know syncro shift is not available for 6770 (10-speed Shimano Ultegra Di2). For 6870 (the first 11-speed Ultegra Di2 version), Synchro shift is available if we update the battery to the BT-DN110. (Note: the battery houses the computer system that enables Synchro shift.)

Thus I am wondering what components I need to upgrade from a 6770 groupset?


texts: I have a Look KG361 that is built with 9-speed Ultegra. Is it possible to change the drivetrain to 2x10 or 2x11 with this frame?


texts: I'm considering upgrading from a 9-speed, 12-26 cassette on a 2006 Lemond Alpe D'Huez.  I have a triple front chairing with a Shimano 105 groupset, with one exception - an Ultegra rear derailleur.  Can I do this by changing both derailleurs, the chain, the cassette, and the hub on my existing rear wheel?  I have a lot of hills in my area, which is why I'm looking into possibly a 10 speed, 12-30.  Thanks for the help!


texts: Using Nylon vs. Silicone Washer on Bafang BBSHD BBS01 Mid drive E-bike Motor Assembly

texts:
Question - Can I replace the silicone washer in the BBS01 axle assembly with a like sized nylon washer?

Background - I am rebuilding a Bafang BBSHD BBS01 mid drive e-bike motor assembly.  I have about 10K miles on the motor and began experiencing some noise.  The fault appears to have been corrosion on the mechanical bearing at the top end of the rotor.  Cleaned, greased and attached with lock tight.  It should hopefully work.  While checking the axle for damage, I discovered the sole silicone washer (27mm OD x 18mm ID x 1mm Thick) was slightly damaged [see photos].  I have been unable to find a suitable replacement.  I can find a like-sized nilon washer.  Can I swap or does the silicone washer impart some special characteristic for this application?  My gut says the nilon washer will last longer.


texts:
I am seriously considering road racing, I am wondering what level of fitness I should get myself to before considering entering races. I intend to do TT races next year anyhow, but I was wondering what kind of level I would need to be so that I would generally stay in the bunch for the whole of a race.

Sort of answer I am expecting are be able to maintain 30kmh for 1 hour (on your own) or something like that, if that makes sense.


texts: Do helmets go out of style and get discontinued by manufacturers?

texts:
Issue:
My head is on the smaller side, so all "universal adult" helmets don't fit me. I've been to a couple LBS's recently and tried on just about all their helmets, from most of the popular brands (excepting Specialized). Most Small sized helmets I tried on don't even fit very well, some of them are in fact too tight. Going into winter, I decided to go for a cheaper, warmer helmet. However, I am pretty sure next summer I will not be able to handle miles and miles in it. I have found two other helmets (with lots of venting) that I would say actually fit comfortably (my primary criterion), one in particular I really like the look too.

Question: should I pick that other helmet up now (Bell Sequence) just in case it gets discontinued? I won't be wearing it for quite a few months, so it's kinda silly when you're on a tight budget to buy something before you need it, but I sure do like the fit (and venting).


texts: What is the name of this type of bolt for the front crank on my bike?

texts: I recently had to take the front gear off of my bike and had some difficulty undoing the bolts. Because of their poor condition, I have decided to replace them. However, I have no idea what they are called. I've included a couple photos that show the bolts themselves and the holes they are meant to fill. I had to saw the end of one of them off to get it out, and the Allen key holes are circular, so really they do need replacing.


texts: How can I tell which size chain my bike uses?

texts:
After learning how to break a chain and reattach it, and also how to add and remove a master link, I find that I can now do much more in the way of maintenance at home. I'll no longer need to bring my bikes into the shop simply for a new chain... if I can only figure out how to identify what size chain I'll need to order.

Is there a simple way of telling what size and type of chain I'll need to order to replace the chain on a bike? Do I measure the chain links? Count links? Count gears on the cogs?

If it helps, some of my bikes' drivetrains have internal hubs, some have derailer gears.


texts:
TLDR; I chased down a bike thief and caught her. Turns out she's a juvenile. She claims she mistook the bike for her own. The police say if we press charges, nothing will likely come of it because it's a he-said/she-said situation. What should I do?

Last night, my beloved racing bike got stolen off of the front of a Muni bus in San Francisco.

I'd been watching it like a hawk, and saw it as it happened. The driver did too. He yelled, "Your bike!" and opened the door for me, I dropped my stuff and took off after the thief. She was obviously having trouble keeping her feet on the tiny Speedplay pedals, and I managed to tackle her as she slipped. Two security guards happened to be right there, and apprehended her. Thankfully, the bus driver waited for me, so I was able to retrieve my laptop bag (and 40lb bag of cat litter — man, that would have slowed me down).

It turns out this happened right outside of the girl's apartment, and her mother and grandmother came out due to the commotion. The mother was genuinely and earnestly disappointed in her daughter.

The police told me given her story (she mistook the bike for her own) and lack of prior arrest record, it would be hard to take it any further than a police report. The problem is that in order to convict, we would need to prove intent, and that would be difficult to do. Having done some Googling since, as I (possibly incorrectly) understand it, the city prosecutor would be responsible for pressing charges and would probably opt not to do so.

Is that the case? And how should I proceed? I'm not convinced that pressing charges would result in a positive outcome (either if it wasn't successful or if it was; sometimes kids just do stupid shit and need an event like this to change their path). What would you do at this point if you were in my situation?


texts:
I have faced a very very annoying problem with my SPD shoes, and it happens on two pairs of shoes from different manufacturers (Shimano SH-AM7 and Northwave Outcross 2 Plus).
The problem is a very bad squeaky sound on every pedal stroke (on the pushing phase of the pedaling, when pulling it is quiet)

Well, to begin with, all shoes have similar construction. On the sole of a shoe, where the SPD cleat is bolted, there are basically two large holes. Manufacturer usually covers it with transparent film on the inside of the shoe. But this film adhesive is so weak it usually gets totally gone after you wash your shoes couple of times.
So what I do -- I put regular duck tape inside my show to cover the holes.

But after I do that -- this super ennoying squeaky sound appears which happens on every pedal push (in Shimano case, Nortwhave makes this sound even without duck tape)
I have tried lots of solutions. Like making holes in the duck tape, so that there is better air flow (doesn't help), I have wd-40-ed the pedal spring, thought it was the problem. But it is definetely the shoe, because when I pedal without being clipped in there is no sound.
I have removed the duck tape at all from my Northwave shoes, and the sound is still there! So it could be the insoles rubbing against the metal cleat hanger.

The only solution that worked for my Shimano shoes which I used a year ago, it was completely sealing the holes with silicon sealant used in plumbing. But it is a nightmare to remove it in case you'll have to.
But I haven't silicone sealed my Northwave yet, trying to find a better solution.

I just don't understand why manufacturers of the shoes make this terrible flaw in the consctruction. And since there are no thousands of squeaky shoes riders out there, it seems that there is some solution I don't know of.

Thank you for any help in advance.


texts:
My current stem is 25.4 mm in diameter. It's way too low and long. It's a threaded fork.

I have a nice quill stem adaptor that's 22.2 in diameter that would be nice to use.

Are there any shims to go from 22.2 to 25.4 and is it worth it?

I found some from Problem solvers but it seems to be for threadless stems only.

what would you do? would a shim be safe here or is it a no-do?

UPDATE: I found a shim and installed it. It works really good. Much better than my old crappy quill stem.


texts:
I have a 7 speed Shimano derailleur. It shifts really good from 1 to 6 but when
I try to shift from 6 to 7 it just doesn't want to shift. Can someone help me?


texts: Crank arm snapped: what could have caused it?

texts:
Recently, on my single-speed bike, the right crank arm just snapped. Was slowly going up a hill, and all of a sudden it broke in two pieces.

I have now exchanged the entire crank & chain set (sadly had to give away my beloved spider crank!)

Afaik this is not a very usual thing to happen.
What could have caused it?

Edit: It looked pretty much exactly like this.


texts: How do I tighten the loose chain given an enclosed Nexus rear hub?

texts: How do I tighten the loose chain on my son's bicycle given an enclosed Nexus rear hub (3 gears but no visible external cogs) ?


texts: My Shimano Tourney RD-TY22 7–21 speed bike rear derailleur mech, direct attach has broken, need a replacement, preferably newer

texts:
To cut a long story short, I have a full suspension mountain bike. Its rear derailleur mech (see title) is broken, had a trip round the spokes and age has degraded the main springs. I therefore need to replace it. Now, its old, and you can get the model, but its new, old stock so I want to upgrade the rear mech, not just replace.

So I need a Shimano rear mech, for 7 speed rear wheel, that bolts directly to hanger that is part of frame (Direct Attach). Can someone suggest how to select a  replacement mech? I am happy with the rest of the system, which is Dual SIS, and grip shift.

Thanks in advance,

Jawapower


texts: How do I know when to replace my bottom bracket?

texts:
With out completely removing the cranks and bottom bracket, how can I tell when it's time to replace my bottom bracket?

The current symptom is a slightly 'rough' feeling when I pedal. It's not constant, and it's not the pedals - I've swapped them out recently with nearly new ones.


texts: 20 yr old specialized rockhopper needs new crank gears

texts: Any help in what front pedal crank replacement gears to buy for my old Rockhopper.  It is a Altus A-10 crank.  I believe the crank to be fine but the gears look to be worn quite a bit.  Took it to a bike shop and they replaced the rear wheel gears, but still slips a little.


texts:
Hey guys I've noticed my disk brake being "lose", I'm probably going to consult with LBS anyway but heres how I can describe it:

the [rear] disk it self is not significantly more lose than the front one at least it wiggles the same amount (no excessive force was applied)
no significant loss in braking power, same power when I pull the brake lever as before
"activation point" hasnt changed aswell or at least not significantly for me to notice
some softness but I havent changed them in like 250 km so they might have worn down alittle bit
the wheel is mounted correctly so its not like the whole wheel is lose

My suspicion is that somehow the "brake gap" has widened somehow and need to be pulled together again.

Brakes in question are:

BRAKE   TEKTRO HD-M290, HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE, ROTOR: 180/160MM

BRAKELEVERS TEKTRO HD-M290, HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE


texts: How to attach Wahoo Elemnt Roam central on a RITCHEY WCS C220 110MM BLATT stem

texts:
I ordered a new bike with a RITCHEY WCS C220 110MM BLATT stem. I got a Wahoo Elemnt Roam and would like to attach this centrally to the stem (not via a side mount or on top of the handle bar).
Does anyone know an adapter that fits the Ritchey stem so the Wahoo Roam is centrally attached in front of the stem (I like a clean look that`s why)?


texts: Can I fit an MTB freewheel onto my road bike?

texts:
I am looking to replace  my 7 speed 12-18t freewheel on my old road bike to a different 7 speed (something like 14-28t) for easier hill climbs.

Is it possible to do so and what are some possible problems I might encounter while doing this?

I found some 7 speed freewheels online and they are all advertised for mountain bikes. Can I fit one onto my old road bike? How do I know if the derailleur will still work and the sprockets aren’t too big for it?

My derailleur is an EXAGE 300EX.

Thank you


texts: Do I need to patch my tubed-tire if I have a puncture?

texts: I have about a 2 mm gash around the outside of my tire from a piece of brown glass. It gave me a slow leak and while I've patched the tube, do I need to do anything about the tire itself?


texts: I cannot change my pedals because of a plastic cap

texts:
I cycle casually every day and I know at least something about bikes. But not that much that I know how to deal with the problem I experience.
Recently I got a new great bike (for me at least), but I noticed that the pedals were starting to get loose (issues with the thread). They are a basic plastic model, so I wanted to change them to something better.
Anyway, I got the new pedals and started working. I had an idea on how to do it, but after reading the instructions and an hour later I thought I was doing something wrong. So I watched a few videos on how to do it, and I was doing everything right.
Except this little problem...
The place where the Allen wrench should go, there is this plastic coin kinda thing, that very confidently says "made in china", that blocks the hole for the wrench (at least I suppose there is a hole for the wrench behind it). There is no point in telling about the bike because it was built in the local shop and the pedals don't have a brand and it won't help if I tell you the other parts.
So my question is, how do I change my pedals?
Any help is well appreciated.


texts: How much faster would a person on a road bike go when using drop handlebars in drop position vs. using flat handlebars? Assume that the power output is the same in either case and that one is going on long stretches (as opposed to commuting).


texts: Why/How should I bed in disc brake pads?

texts: Why should I bed in my disc brake pads and what's the best way to do it?


texts: Need help getting the right derailleurs for a vintage 12 speed double

texts:
What derailleurs do I need?

2x6 speed
52 and 42 tooth up front.
Crank set is Shimano 600

I believe the bike is a Raleigh Road Ace. I came here a month ago asking to identify the bike and now I'm aiming to restore it. I know nothing about road bikes so I don't know if all 6 speed derailleurs fit all 6 speed cassettes. Please explain as if I'm five years old haha.

Thanks.

These images will explain more than my words can.
https://imgur.com/gallery/LDbbS


texts: How safe are helmet- or glasses-mounted mirrors?

texts:
I am wanting to get a mirror for my bicycle, but the obvious mount points are already occupied (bar-end shifters, aero brake levers).  There is some appeal to the Take A Look or a helmet-mounted mirror, but I am concerned about safety. It seems that a mirror hanging out near my eye may have the propensity to be jammed into my eye or some other part of my face or head in the event of a fall.

What happens to a head-mounted mirror when the rider falls? Do they flex or break in some helpful way? Are my fears well-founded or overblown?


texts:
I'm brand new to bicycle maintenance/repair and just replaced my chain for the first time which I'm very excited about. I do, however, have a problem. I used a quick link to attach the chain and I haven't been able to get it to 'pop' into place. I've pedaled it a bit while it's upside down and everything seems fine, I'm just not sure if it is. I don't want the chain to let go on me all of a sudden (I can easily undo the link by hand right now, seems too easy).

Does that seem right?


texts:
Hunting the internet for months for an alternative of this bag (which unfortunately isn't available for purchase anymore): http://www.alkr.com/urban-messenger.html

I searched on Amazon, Ebags, Google, Codura Corporate Website, but can't seem to find something satisfactory.

Requirements:

Solid "Codura" fabric or comparable (no leather, black, low key design)
Not a dedicated messenger bag
Structured, thoughtful compartment design (not one big compartment, fits 13" laptop somehow, medium sized)
No floppy bottom

Any suggestion are welcomed and please don't recommend the common choices like Timbuk2 Messenger. Violates at least points 2), 4) ;-)


texts: My bike is a Exitway R16 with Rockshox Recon suspension. I was wondering if is this bike for XC racing, light trail riding or both. The bike is not the fastest nor the slowest, I have a little hard time doing bunny hops.


texts: What does the number 77 mean on the Schrader valve?

texts: Can anyone please tell me what this number on the valve mean?


texts: Disadvantages of using QR->Thru Axle Adapters?

texts:
I have a 100x15 front 142x12 rear cyclocross frame. I'm considering getting mid range wheels with quick releases that come with thru axle adapters. The wheels are lighter and better than most options in this price range that come with native thru axles.

Question is, are there any negatives for using qr->TA adapter besides weight?

The wheels in question from crc
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/prime-race-disc-road-wheelset-2017/rp-prod142942


texts: Feasability of repairing '70s-era welded-steel luggage rack

texts:
I've got a '70s Motoconfort (Motobecane) with the original "French randonneur-style" front luggage rack (it looks like a very small porteur rack):

In the photo above, the rack is mounted to the bike frame via a bracket which sits between the front brake and the frame on the brake mounting bolt (highlighted in red). However, this mounting plate has sadly cracked with use:

Although this isn't exactly a "Welding Stack Exchange", perhaps someone here has experience in (trying to) repair this sort of metalwork?-- Is it possible and feasible from an economic and/or usage perspective, and if so, how can it be done? Of course, such a small front rack would never need to carry a truly heavy load, but it should be strong enough to hold a significant amount of weight without bending or breaking (again). It would be a shame to throw it away, since it seems that Motoconfort/Motobecane luggage racks aren't all that common any more.


texts:
I have a dutch city bike (similar to the one shown below) with broad tires that I use for commuting short distances. When traveling on roads with a slight tilt (left to right, perpendicular to the road), I often find myself feeling unbalanced, as if tilt of the road is exerting a force on my tires, pushing me against the tilt.

What am I doing wrong? Can something be wrong with the bike/tires or is it just "me"?


texts: Is this a real Concorde or just a replica?

texts: I'm confused with this, the lugs in this bike look identical with another Concorde but the tubing sticker clearly says "Reynolds". (Concorde only uses Colombus, right?)


texts:
On my touring bike, about a year ago, I upgraded my tires from the low-end stock ones to better lighter ones.
The weight gain was 205g per tire so 410g on the whole bike, plus a few grams on the tubes that were smaller ergo lighter since I reduced my section.

This made a huge difference in the reactivity, and the overall velocity of the bike.

Now for my racing bike, I intend to replace the wheels from the heavy stock ones to higher end ones. In addition to features such as stiffness and so, the new wheelset will be 410g lighter and I will gain a few more grams with a cassette change.

So weight-wise, the gain is very similar, will the feel be similar as last year? since this weight gain is also done on moving weight


texts:
A few weeks ago I decided I would start commuting by bike since I live in a central location in a fairly bike-friendly city (mainly to campus, work, gym, etc), through roads, and trails that are not always in great shape. So I went out and bought a used Kent Sierra Madre in good shape for $140 at a local bike shop, which turned out to be a comfort bike.

My mistake was not looking up this bike before buying it, and not even knowing what a comfort bike was (I just assumed it was a hybrid and did not know it was a comfort bike until I got home and googled it, woops). It's a good bike, it's comfortable to ride, stable and does what it's supposed to do I guess, but it's definitely not clicking with me. I feel like all the weight, the very upright riding position, suspension, and wide tires are making my pedaling way too inefficient, I can't go as fast as I want to go.

In hindsight I wish I had continued searching in other bike shops and gotten something like a touring bike, which I think would fit my needs a lot better than the Kent comfort bike. I know I didn't spend a lot on it, but I'm a student and my budget is tight, so buying another bike is something I should consider very carefully.

Any thoughts on how to best approach either getting used to this bike, getting another one, reselling, etc? Has anybody had any experience with this model or with comfort bikes in general and would like to share experiences with them? If I did decide to buy another bike, would a touring bike fit my needs more than a road bike?


texts: Is there a way to completely deflate an inner tube?

texts:
I had a flat tire and replaced the inner tube. I just didn't realize that the tube was a thorn-proof tube when I bought it. It was the only spare one I had, so I used it anyway. Just now I replaced it with a regular tube. I figure I can keep this thorn proof one around just in case I get another flat.

The problem is, I can't get all the air out of the thorn proof tube to store it in the closet. It's schrader valve. I push the pin in and air comes out, but there is still a lot in there. I'm trying to fold it up like a tube of toothpaste while pushing the pin, and it's not working so well. I could cut it and patch it, but then I may as well throw it out and buy a new tube. Is there maybe some way to get my bike pump to work in reverse or otherwise completely deflate this thing?


texts: Mysterious case: chain falling off large chainring, how to fix?

texts:
On my commuter bike I decided to rid myself of the small inner chain ring (which is almost never used) and front dérailleur (now redundant). However, I have come across an unusual problem. Whilst cycling the chain is coming off of the outer chain ring and falling onto the crank arm. This usually coincides with a shift of the rear dérailleur onto a smaller sprocket, although notably not onto the highest gearing - it has happened shifting from the 5th to 6th scrocket on the 12-27 cassette for example. Furthermore, I am not exerting abnormal force on the crank, just sitting and riding as normal. This just happens out of the blue and as you can imagine is quite disconcerting/dangerous.

I have considered and checked the following so far:

Chain length - tension is good so no obvious problems there...
Chain dirty - it most certainly is not, it has only seen 200 miles and its lubed up a treat ;-)
Chain ring to cassette alignment - Hollowtech II BB and Ultegra 53T 6600 crank in 68mm shell, standard setup afaict, no obvious problems there...
Lack of front-dérailleur - I removed this since there is only one chain ring - could this be a factor that prevented me noticing the problem before (surely not...)
Chain ring worn - the chain ring looks in pretty good shape to me

I experimented briefly, turning the crank and applying a very slight outward pull (away from frame) on the chain and it promptly fell off onto the crank. Frankly, I was surprised how such a small misalignment could cause the chain the fall off...

My question: Has anyone else encountered this problem before?

Any comments on the things I have checked (why I may be mistaken in my assessment of the problem)?

Other possible causes I have missed would be gratefully received - this is spoiling an otherwise nice bike and I really do not want to go back to using the double crank configuration if possible.


texts: Checking 'plumb' when mounting bike on trainer

texts:
From my former questions, y'all might be aware that I prefer to ride indoors  - for various reasons

no hordes of people of median IQ in 1500kg death machines waiting to smoosh me;
no need to wear lycra or Kardashian-shoes or helmets;
no 'free travel' by not pedalling on downhills.

My Wahoo KickR is currently at a mate's place, so I've had to go back to an old "dumb" trainer; that's fine, because I've got a built-in power meter on my bike now, so I can still calibrate my workouts to power and HR zones.

One thing I've noticed on the dumb trainer is that I am very sensitive if the bike's not "plumb" (worse, if it 'shifts' during a session). What I mean by that is that it's very slightly tilted from vertical along its long axis, or if, having felt relatively 'plumb' it moves out of plumb during the ride (oddly, it tends to tilt left more often than chance would indicate).

I can compensate by turning the front wheel in the opposite direction to the 'tilt', but that puts significant strain on shoulders and arms if I'm training remotely hard.

It's not 'Princess and the Pea'-levels of sensitivity, but it's noticeable; by the 50 minute mark of a ride, if the bike's 'leaning' I get preoccupied by it, which screws with concentration and nek minnit my scranus is killing me and it's easier to just get off the bike.

Since the top tube on the bike is wider than the down tube (see? I know all the words now), to measure 'plumb' would seem to require taking a plumb-line down both sides of the top tube and ensuring that the gap is even on both sides. That's a gigantic pfaff, and I'm sick of it already and I've only one it twice.

I had thought perhaps that I could try to run a single line from a loose loop attached to the top tube (hoping that it intersects the down tube centrally), but that doesn't seem to work.

Has anybody ever bothered to actually do this, or do people not care much?

If I was 70kg or thereabouts I would not be that concerned if the bike felt like it was listing like a drunken galleon; it would be unlikely that the entire thing would come adrift.

As it is, I'm ~104kg - if I can notice that the bike's not 'vertical', I'm betting that there will come a day when gravity will notice as well (and given Sod's Law, it'll probably happen when I'm sprinting).


texts: Does climbing put extra stress on the chain, making it stretch out faster / higher break risk?

texts:
I remember taking it for granted, but then somebody gave me some reasons on climbing not affecting the chain, and I forgot about it.

Today I just got scared that my chain might break when struggling on some really steep hill I recently discovered.


texts: Need opinion on upgrading groupset for my road bike

texts:
I just moved to UK for my masters and was looking for a road bike. I found a pretty old ribble 631 road bike taht was barely used. Its supposed to be around 20 years old but still has decals intact. The seller said that the bike was too large for him so he just used it on a turbo trainer. I paid £560 for it.
Rear derailleur - Shimano 105
Front derailleur - Shimano 600ex brand on
Brakes - Shimano 105
Brake levers - Shimano 105
Gear levers - Shimano index RX400
Rear cassette - shimano 12 - 24 ( 7 speed )
Wheels - Mavic MA3 rims on Shimano 105 hubs
Headset - Shimano 105
Stem - SR quill
Bars - Richey Pro T6
Seat post - Titanium with alloy layback clamp
Seat - San Marco Ponza
Tyres - Michelin axial sport
frame - ribble 631 reynolds road.

Although the bike is in pretty pristine condition, I am not used to downtube shifters.
The shifters are downtube, the front is friction, the rear is indexed. . I am thinking, I'd upgrade parts of the groupset, to a 10 speed cassette, bar end shifters and rear derailleur. The cost comes to another £250 if I source the items as cheaply as possible.
Here are my concerns -

Did I overpay for the bicycle ? I do have a feeling that I did :(
Should I spend the extra on the upgrades?


texts: How can I connect two pieces of square aluminum tubing together to make a bike trailer using n55 docs?

texts:
Me and a friend are trying to build a trailer using principles found here ...

http://www.n55.dk/MANUALS/SPACEFRAMEVEHICLES/DIY.pdf

They are using 25 mm aluminum square tubing with a 2mm thickness and 6.5mm holes.

At the bottom of the docs is a bill of materials listing the materials.

It appears they are just drilling holes and than inserting a bolt and nut to connect the pieces.

Is this what they are doing?

More specifically does their need to be a washer on both sides?


texts: Can't change into the largest sprocket on rear derailleur

texts:
I bought my first road bike recently, and I've noticed I can't change into the largest cog/sprocket on the rear derailleur because when I pull the shifter the chain is pushed into the side of the largest sprocket and not over any of the teeth.

If I (gently) use my thumb to push the arm (chain guide?) the chain will mount the largest sprocket but as soon as I let go with my thumb it jumps down to the second largest sprocket.

I'm guessing this isn't normal and somehow it hasn't been fitted quite right? Is there anything I can do to fix this or should I just take it back to the shop?


texts: Is there an easy to use app for tracking my cycling performance? (iOS or Android)

texts: I'm looking for an app similar to the Nike+ app but for cycling. I'm mostly concerned with distance, calories and average speed. Elevation tracking would be awesome. Does your recommendation pair with a desktop app as well?


texts: Broken stem tube – LBS "just" lowered handlebars. Is this safe?

texts:
I have asked this elsewhere on the internet as well, but this is the Stack Exchange adaptation.
I have three related questions and I'll try to make it clear what they are. Here's some background where I've tried to boldface the most important parts:

Very recently I bought an old 1976 steel racing bicycle from the local Craigslist-like site. The previous owner said pretty much only the frame was original, and most everything else had been replaced recently. Sure enough, everything looked new and from a quick inspection nothing seemed out of place either. On the short ride home that evening, it rode like a dream as well.
The next day I rode to and from work and noticed the handlebars creaking when I put weight on them. That continued to and from work today, so on my way home I popped into a local bike shop and while they didn't find anything immediately, I asked a question that prompted them to remove the threaded stem.
Apparently, the stem tube had broken clean across the "slanted" part. I've attempted to illustrate where the break was here:

Their best guess was that the previous owner had raised the handlebars too much, and the metal just couldn't cope with the load so it cracked. And when the two pieces of the stem tube ground against each other that made a creaking noise.
You can imagine how glad I was that I got it investigated.
Since the LBS didn't have a replacement stem in store, they decided to put the handlebars back in with the existing, broken, stem tube. They reasoned that if the handlebars are low enough, there should be enough stem tube still inside the headset that nothing bad will happen. They assured me that I would be safe as long as I don't attempt to raise the handlebars.

Question 1: I guess there's a reason the stem tube is "slanted" like that. Why? Does it matter if my stem tube is broken and not slanted anymore? Do I risk breaking more things? Am I really as safe as the LBS wanted to assure me? (Based on the reading I've done, I'm guessing the slant is there to make sure the steerer turns with the stem, and the LBS might be thinking that the friction between stem and steerer should still accomplish that.)
If I wanted to, they said I could call them and they might get a new stem and do the replacement. Their best estimate was something like $70 dollars for the stem and work to replace it.
Now, I have some bike maintenance experience – but mostly the basics. I've intentionally refused to do anything that requires a torque wrench. However, I made sure to watch them work on my headset now, so I'm fairly confident in my understanding of how everything fits together. I think I may be able to replace the stem myself.
Question 2: The LBS guessed it would be about $40 to get the stem, but also said they had no idea where to order such a thing because it's a pretty old bicycle. Is there any chance I can get a hold of it for cheaper?
Question 3: If I think I can replace the stem myself, am I deluding myself? Is it hard? Easy? What might I have missed when looking at them work on the headset of my bike?
I guess those are the most pressing questions, but I'm also sure more will pop up. Thank you for taking the time to read!


texts: I'm looking for a good bike to use to get around campus and use on the local trail which is about 10 miles paved and unpaved and goes around a lake. Preferably under $300.


texts: How many miles and/or commuting seasons will a modern internal geared hub last?

texts:
I've been considering drive trains on a utility / commuter bike.

The Shimano Alfine internal 8-speed hub is on several bikes I've liked. I've also heard good things about SRAM and Nexus hubs.

I ride in a wet / nasty winters / fairly flat environment here in Minnesota.
I'm partial to lower gearing if it meant more reliability or lower
cost.
I don't need max efficiency
All other factors are secondary to durability in my eyes.

As I’m not current on how much maintenance can I expect a modern internal hub to require, and how long will it last before needing to be replaced.

What are expected or actual lifetime / maintenance needs of modern internal hubs?


texts: Replace 27.5 x 3" MTB tires with 27.5 x 2.1"

texts:
Recently I bought a new MTB, a Frog Xtream Vantage.

After two days of riding I realized a 3" tire size is too heavy and slow to ride. So I thought to replace the 3" tires with 2.1" regular MTB tires.

Does that work? Will there be any damage to the rim?

Also, will it improve my speed?


texts: Can e-bikes speed up my commute? Which class?

texts:
I have a daily 15 mile commute (1-way) which takes me approximately 1hr 15 min each way if I bike (taking into account traffic signals and so on). The route is all surface roads, with some mild hills. Sweating on the ride to work isn't an issue as my building has a shower and I don't feel particularly tired after. However, the sheer amount of time it takes each way is the main reason I don't bike every day; I'd like a commute that's more in the region of 45 minutes each way. I would like to cut my travel time. Therefore, I'm considering an e-bike purchase and am wondering the following:

Class 2 bikes go up to 20 mph with throttle and the saleswoman told me that pedal + motor could take it over 20mph. Is this true? On a Youtube video I watched they said something to the effect of "the motor stops helping after 20mph". Does that mean it shuts off once your speed goes over 20mph, leaving it entirely up to your muscle power?
Class 3 bikes go up to 28 mph per my understanding. Since I don't take bike paths on my commute they are legal (I live in California). Should I be considering a class 3 bike instead of a class 2 if my goal is a faster commute (as opposed to not sweating or getting tired)?

Based on comments, here is the question I'm actually trying to have answered:

Are class 2 bikes useful for going more than 20 mph consistently? Or is class 3 better for me if I want more speed?

Example class 2: https://electricbikereview.com/genze/sport-e101/

Example class 3: https://electricbikereview.com/juiced-bikes/oceancurrent/


texts:
My son has that helmet for bicycles. Its brand new and was gifted to him recently. Unfortunately due to my mistake it was left in the backseat of our car and has accumulated some dust/lint which is making it look dirty.

I want to clean it but don't know how, I don't wish to ruin it by just trying with a wet cloth. Its surface texture is like a very high quality tennis ball and it's not the carbon fiber hard top ones that I'm used to.

Any help would be great, That helmet is beautiful and I don't want to ruin it in haste.


texts:
I've managed to break my bike frame, and after doing some reading, it is possible that I'm not pedaling correctly by putting too much into my power stroke (see the related question I keep breaking my road frames - why?).

What is the correct technique to pedal, and what is the best way to get up to speed without causing too much stress to the bike frame?


texts: Rear axle for Alexrims DC 4.5 Disc 26" MTB wheels w/ Formula hubs

texts:
I've acquired a pair of old Alexrims DC 4.5 Disc 26" MTB wheels with Formula hubs, but the rear wheel is missing the axle. I've been reading various posts about how to measure / replace the axle, but haven't found anything that makes me confident enough yet to buy a replacement. Is there an easy way to tell what size / type I need?

I initially presumed I would just need a standard axle for 5mm QR skewers, but when I measured the internal diameter of the hub it was 12mm. So is this hub actually designed for a 12mm bolt thru axle?

Any advice or pointing in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Crank arm doesn't go all the way on square taper axle

texts:
Doesn't matter what I do, I can't seem to push the arm all the way, even though the bolt is tight and it feels stable:

I just replaced a worn out and damaged arm but they look similar enough to not have this gap (old on the left, right is new):


texts:
I have a Specialized Crosstour that is about 10 years old.  I rode it occasionally and never had a flat.  Then it hung in my garage for a couple of years.  When I took it down, the tires were flat and I couldn't shift.

It went for a tune-up.  Hours after getting it back, the front tire went flat.  There was a single small hole, so I applied a patch.  After sitting overnight, it was flat again.  The new hole was 2 inches from the previous.

I tried patching it again. Before patching, I inspected the tube & tire.  I couldn't see anything and didn't feel anything sharp.

The second patch went flat, so I took it apart, and wiped down the rim, rim strip, and inside of the tire.  Never did I feel anything sharp.

I installed a new tube this time.  This held for about 3 days, and then was flat again (I never rode the bike this time).  This time the hole was on the opposite side of the wheel as the previous holes.

In all cases, it was a single hole on the spoke side and I aired the tires to 95 lbs.

My only guess right now, is that I am causing the flat by pinching the tube when putting the tube in.  I air the tube up a little so it is round and am pretty careful when I put it in the tire.

I'm not sure what to do next and what could explain the punctures?

Update 1

I came home on Tuesday, and my wife had taken it to the bike shop to be repaired.  They didn't find anything and their new tube is still holding fine (3 days later).

I'm forced to conclude that I was causing the hole by my poor installation technique.

Update 2
The new tube install from the bike shop held for 3 days at about 30psi.  At least it was at 30psi before I aired them up to 95psi and rode 2 blocks on our street.

The next day, the front tire was flat again.  I haven't yet taken it apart to see where the hole is.

Final Update

I accepted Popup's answer because it seemed the most likely explanation.  I have replaced the rim tape with cloth tape AND used a thorn resistant tube.  I will do the same to the rear when I have an issue with the rear tire or tube.


texts: What Cannondale bikes compare to a Specialized Crosstail or Hardrock?

texts:
I don't know much about bike parts, so I don't really know which make is better, So I hope you can help out here.

As I said I don't really know how they are, but I've always had a thing for how Specialized bikes look.

Now I want to buy something that can be used for both commute and some trail, so I'm looking at CrossTrails and HardRock 29ers... but it turns out I have a 20% discount off cannondale bikes... which is quite appealing. I could probably buy a better bike and pay the same, or just get a comparable bike and save some money. What cannondale bikes compare to those I mention or which should I get so that it would cost me around the same after the 20% discount?

Thanks!

extra..

The Cannondale shop is right in my company's campus so that would make it easy when it needs maintenance.

I can also get 10% off specialized in one specific store, but the shop is  25+ miles away from where I live.. so that could make it troublesome when to take it needs its maintenance)

EDIT:

I've dug a bit into the Cannondale bikes.. how would they compare (component/build wise) to say a Trail SL 29er 2?


texts: Q-rings shifting chain not smoothly hitting the teeth

texts:
I bought my bike with Q-rings a while ago. Recently I switched to NoQ rings because I wanted to make a better comparison (hadnt ridden round rings in 2 years).

This weekend i re-mounted the Q-rings but even though my Di2 is shifting properly, I do notice that when going on the big Q-ring, in different crank positions it sometimes takes an extra rotation for the (KMC) chain to really drop into the teeth.

What could cause this? I cant recall it happening before the NoQ mounting.

Thanks


texts:
]1
Serial #236777. Lots of GT components. Blue plastic rims. Probably the original tires.


texts:
I recently picked this up along with a couple of old wheels.

I don't know it's age or history. I've only got as far as identifying it as a Sachs.

There are no other markings apart from the logo shown in the photo.


texts: Campagnolo QS Front Derailleur/Shifter Compatability

texts:
I have older Campagnolo Chorus 10-speed shifters. They are marked 'Carbon BB System'.

I am replacing my front derailleur and have a spare 10-speed Record QS front derailleur. QS stands for Quick Shift. I understand that the QS system changes the ratio that operates the derailleur.

Will an older non-QS lever work with a QS front derailleur?


texts: How do you make the handlebar stem straight?

texts:
I adjusted my stem height the other day, and since then, the stem hasn't felt straight. I've attempted to straighten it a few times, but because I'm just eyeballing it, the handlebars don't quite seem right when I ride.

(I have similar problems when I try to straighten my saddle or brifters; is this hard for other people, too, or do I just have some sort of alignment-blindness? :)

Is there a simple way to make the stem objectively straight instead of relying on my subjective (and wrong) judgment?


texts: How to correctly use an Avenir Airsource One bicycle pump

texts: I have an Avenir Air-Source One pump that keeps popping off while trying to inflate the tires. can someone tell me how to correctly inflate the tires, without the pump popping off?


texts:
I have received a hand-down bike from a friend that had a punctured inner tube which I have since patched, however during my fix I noticed that the tyre is not in the best condition when looking at the sidewall, and would like to know if the tyre is dire need of a replacement.
Thanks in advance for any response!


texts: Is there any bicycle with calorie burn meter in market? Its not the one on the gym. Normal bicycle for outdoors. Is there any bicycle like that in market? I have a project for my school work. Really need your help. Thank you. I'll appreciate any comments.


texts: How can I tell if my bike has a freewheel or a cassette?

texts:
I bought a Frankenbike off Craigslist.

It's a Specialized Rockhopper of unknown year, converted to a commuter, with shocks up front and V-brakes.

I love this weird little bike and want to put a Copenhagen wheel on it when they come out, to make it into the ultimate commuter frankenbike.

To install the wheel I'll need to know whether I'm dealing with a freewheel or a cassette. How can I find out without taking the bike apart or knowing the year it was built?


texts:
Are there any bike mounted bags for a camera, that could safely hold my Sony NEX-5? I'd be happy enough if the camera fitted in with the 16mm pancake lens (as most of the shots are landscapes anyway). However, I was only able to find bags for cell phones or very slim compact cameras.

The camera dimensions without lens are per spec 111x59x38 mm (WxHxD); my own measurements give cca 114x63x39 mm. With the lens mounted the depth is about 62mm and the height just slightly bigger.

Sony NEX-5 with 16mm pancake http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/SonyNex5Nex3/Images/NEX-5_with_16mm-001.jpg
full size photo

Here's a top photo to get the idea of the thickness: link.

I'd like a bag that I could mount on the handlebar, allowing a quick access without having to step off the bike for a quick shot.

Or are there some solutions I could modify to my needs (more or less easily)?

I'm open to your suggestions! Thanks.


texts: Are there classes for learning how to cycle for exercise?

texts:
Is there such a thing as a class that teaches people how to optimally ride a bicycle for exercise? This class would assume that a person "knows how to ride a bike" but that's about it (i.e. they can balance while riding the bike and they have some idea of what changing the gears does but that's all).

If such classes exist, how can I find one in my locale?


texts: I want to change the pedals on my spinning bike but to clipless but

texts:
Ive bought a spinning bike to help in lockdown, and its ace...I want to change the pedals to a clipless set. I bought some clipless pedals, but the thread on the pedal is way smaller than the ones coming off. I read about and bought an adapter, but its on marginally larger. Is what I'm trying to do possible, there only seem to be 2 pedal sizes and each would be way to small to fit my crank. Is it possible I have a crank that only fits its own pedal size??. Any help would be appreciated as I'm a set of pedals shoes and an adapter down at the moment.
Many thanks


texts: Ways to combine Shimano M-615 SGS with 9-speed cassette and shifter

texts:
current setup is Shimano M-615 SGS rear derailleur, Shimano Deore M591 shifter and Shimano CS-HG81-10 11-36T cassette

My idea is to return to 9-speed while not throwing the derailleur. Wanna change the shifter to SunRace M95 (9sp shimano compatible, dunno if pull ratio should be changed to be DynaSys compatible) and some 9sp cassette with alu spider (the hub has alu freewheel body) or at least to remove one of the cogs.

Any ideas if the 9sp shifter will work with the 10sp derailleur? Thanks in advance


texts: What to put after taking off rear stabilisers from child bicyle?

texts:
I removed rear stabilisers from my 9y old daughter's bike a while ago, but I lost the little pieces that are supposed to replace the stabilisers.

Today I don't even remember what they look like. Any idea what these pieces are, meaning their name & specs (if they're standard) so I can maybe order them on Amazon?


texts: Potential risks of sitting upright on the saddle during a daily commute

texts: I ride my bike to work Monday through Friday, about forty minutes both ways.  The elevation changes a bit but not too much.  I'm not a huge fan of holding the handlebars, and I often ride with no hands for as much of the distance as I can.  I know this throws off my balance a bit (and a large bump is more likely to throw me off my bike) but beyond that should I be worried about how this affects my muscles?  E.g. could I be straining them/stretching them in the wrong way?  In general is it bad to consistently ride using that posture?


texts:
Whenever I cycle in heavy rain with my tubeless tires, what I presume is the sealant seeps out of the rims in a kind of gloopy dark-grey mush. Is there something wrong with the sealant I'm using? Or perhaps compatibility between the tires / sealant / wheel?
I heard a moderately loud pop when when I set up the tires and they appear to be seated correctly.
Using gravelking foldable tubeless ready 35mm tires with Orange Seal sealant.


texts: How did these pimple/bubble/bump shapes form on my tube?

texts:
I've been riding on the same rear inner-tube for several months without issue. I topped up the rear tube last week, went on ~10mi ride (including a rest in the middle), and had no problems.

I was about to ride again today, but when I looked at my rear wheel I noticed the tube was completely flat.

While removing and inspecting the tube I found two obvious bumps/bulges/protuberances/knobs on the inner-tube.

These bumps are near a spoke. They are on the inner wall of the tube.

I found the source of the leak. One of two bumps has a sizeable hole/cut. It's not a slow leak. If I try to pump it does not hold any air.

I remember now that last week, after that ride, I had heard an odd noise from my kitchen (where I store my bike) and couldn't find the source when I went to check on it. I thought, "that's odd", but didn't think twice.

In hindsight that noise must have been my rear inner tube very suddenly deflating. It wasn't a bang, but a sound vaguely similar to a bag of rice falling on its side and the grains coming out quickly then slowly then stopping. Sort of like a deflation now that I remember it!

The issue isn't glass or debris, and the tire does not have a bubble and otherwise is not deformed or damaged when I inspect it.

A similar question and answer makes me think that perhaps I overinflated it when I thought I was doing things like normal, but I've never experienced this particular behavior before and was curious. Also, that user did not notice these obvious deformities like I did, so I thought it could be a different scenario.

On feeling the rim tape, I do not notice the spoke protruding out at this spot, but I do notice an obvious dimple/depression in the rim tape at that spoke!

What may have caused these bubbles?
If poor rim tape may be at fault, must the rim tape be re-done?

Unfortunately I'd have to bring the bicycle to a shop mid COVID-19 lockdown for anything beyond changing the tube, as I'm only really equipped to swap out the tube with my skillset.

For context, the tire says 700x28c, the wheel says 700x18c/23c. That discrepancy between 28c and 23c always bothered me, but I have no idea if it matters. The bike has been like that since I bought it ~7 years ago and multiple mechanics at multiple shops have replaced my tubes and tires with similar ones and never mentioned it. The max PSI is 115 and I usually only inflate to ~100 PSI, if my pump can be trusted.


texts: Can 2.40 tires fit a 20 inch rim/wheel. I want move up from 2.35 tires but I'm not sure if I  have to buy bigger rims/wheels or if I can ride it with the 20 inch wheels.


texts: Clacking noise as right crank goes 'over the top' once per revolution

texts:
Every time the right pedal goes over the top I get a single clack noise with a little more 'travel', a point where the bottom bracket moves without any resistance, from that point in the rotation. I have only just noticed it recently and it seems to be more noticeable on the lower gears where the cogs are smaller.

Any thoughts on what to do or what might be causing the problem?


texts: Why chains differ for 10x cassettes and 11x

texts:
I have Shimano Ultegra 6700 10x, I want to change crankset only to R8000.

But found in internet that, I have to change the chain also because I have 10x cassette on rear wheel.

It became so interesting why chains depends on speed 11x or 10x Shimano?


texts: Hitting bumps on a locked out suspension fork

texts:
I just bought a mountain bike with a Suntour XCM fork with lockout.

Being a BSO rider, this is my first ever bike with a lockout on the fork. I will be riding trails, but most of my riding will be in an urban setting.

The fork bobs and steals energy while I'm riding, so I figure I'll have it locked out while I'm on pavement.

I ride aggressively, and I occasionally hit potholes.

My previous bike was a rigid steel BSO. It took some hard hits while street riding, but nothing ever happened to it.

This brings me to my question: How strong is the thingy that locks out the fork? Will it break if the front wheel takes a hard hit while the fork is locked out?


texts: Do freewheel/cassette/chains come as a set?

texts:
I've a Marin San Rafael, 2005. The cassette is an 8 speed 11-28 shimano, exact model number unknown. The chain and freewheel are whatever came with the bike..

I've always thought the chain had a problem, stiff link perhaps, because it would feel like it skipped a tooth/jumped particularly when running on the smallest two cogs and pedalling hard.. everything else has been mechanically good, though lately the freewheel has developed a problem, probably stuck pawls. It's slipped and crunched enough times that I'd say it warrants replacing rather than cleaning and regreasing..
The bike has always been stored indoors, some use in wet weather but mainly dry, and has probably done about 2000 miles. I'm reasonably tall/heavy at 193cm/110kg and live in a hilly region which may have contributed to what I think is a premature failure

So, I'm setting about ordering bits but I'm not sure what to get - there aren't any obvious model numbers on these components and I can't find exact specs on what came as standard

If I replace like for like, do chain/free/cassette come as a set?
Will any shimano 8 speed cassette fit?
Do chains have a standard length and need shortening to suit?
What keywords do I need to search (e.g. eBay) for to ensure I get the set of things I need?
If I go for upgraded components (cos I don't think I'll be getting smaller any time soon), are there particular keywords to search/look in the tech specs for (e.g. Number of pawls-I've no idea what makes one freewheel more heavy duty than another)?
Are they a standard fitment hence a drop in replacement or do other things need to be changed too/do I need to match it to the hub?

I don't use the bike enough to warrant eg a sprag hub and rear wheel rebuild, but l'll be using it regularly, soon

Note, I'm not after particular product recommendations, I'm after knowing how to search for and buy the right set things over the the internet, what things are called, what's needed to ensure the job can be done in one swoop working finding something missing - the mechanics of fitting them is not part of the question either


texts: Why does RockShox say you shouldn't use a bolt on axle on their fork?

texts:
I bought a RockShox suspension fork for a trekking bike I'm building. My plan was to use a wheel with a Shimano XT Shimano DH-3N72 hub dynamo I have from before on it. The hub has a normal bolt on (9mm?) axle. Before installing the fork, I'm reading through the manual, and they specifically mention you should only use a quick release or thru axle on it, "Do not use a bolt on axle with you fork". When I try, the wheel and axle bolts seem to fit perfectly.

I understand that fork instructions are not something to ignore lightly, but I'd like to know why they advice so clearly against this?

You have to tension the bolts with a torque of 6 - 8 Nm, which is more than quick release I imagine. But I couldn't imagine this would have an effect on the fork?

Also, would it be easy to replace to bolt on axle with a quick release or does the hub need to be different for that?

Edit: correct hub type

Edit: add pictures of the hub to clarify the kind of bolts.


texts:
I have an old Schwinn sidewinder 2.6 mountain bike. I'm starting to get into better trails and I want to upgrade my front suspension. It has the standard 1-1/8 steering, but its a threaded shaft. Does this mean I can't upgrade to the new "smooth" style forks that are readily available?  I guess in short can I put any suspension in my bike if i change the front forks and handlebars?  I don't know much about bikes suspension and what can be messed with and what can't.
Thank you
Kyle


texts: Just replaced axle on rear wheel. It is loose at first but as soon as I ride it, it tightens and wheel no longer rotates. Help!

texts:
Yesterday, the axle on my rear wheel snapped. I spent today trying to replace it with a new axle of same length. Before doing so, I checked bearings, and they seemed ok. When I put the hardware on the new axle, the axle spins (although feels a bit gritty), but as soon as I ride it, something tightens and the axle no longer spins, and I need to push the bike, dragging the wheel.
What have I done wrong?
? Is it likely there is damage to the bearings/hub that I haven't spotted?
? Perhaps I have put in too many/too few ball bearings? (I didn't count them so have replaced with what looks right). Should they sit snug, some slightly above the others, or all on same level with slight gaps?
? Have I not used the lock nuts appropriately?


texts: Sources for vintage or reproduction decals?

texts: What sources offer reproduction decals in the vintage Cannondale (lower-case, non-italic) style? When I finish restoring my bicycle's polished aluminum finish, I would like to apply replacement decals. I've examined some products offered on eBay, but none match the really old Cannondale logo.


texts:
I have a second hand bike and the chain doesn't seem to work well with the 11 speed cassette fitted.
It almost seems too wide to fit in the sprocket gap. Are there any visual signs on a shimano chain which indicate whether it is 10s or 11s?


texts: At the ripe old age of 20, I finally moved to an area with a BMX track, so this summer I'm finally going to be able to follow my life-long dream of racing. Other than spending a lot of time riding daily and practicing on my home track, what other sort of training should I be doing? What muscles do I need to work, and what's an effective way of doing so (preferably without gym equipment)?


texts: Is a long distance ride by an Amateur possible?

texts:
I am new to biking beyond what I did every day as a kid/teen, and I realize this is a very serious undertaking. I am in shape but not for a ride like this, so I will train. I have a new bike, a hybrid, and don't know much about bikes other than how to take the tires off. I want to ride with a camelback and the basic of basics.

Is this just ridiculous or can I do this by August 2016? What would you recommend to begin? I am female, healthy but with a heart murmur. I would be going at a moderate pace, time is not an issue. Bike from Toronto to Florida, Fly home from Florida.

Edit: Thank you for all your input! I will be seriously considering all of these points. It's a great community here, I really appreciate this!


texts: Plastic screw with ripped-off head stuck in the frame

texts:
So I attempted using a couple of shitty plastic screws to attach an air pump to the water bottle mounting holes in the frame. I was using a long-arm torque wrench and the head of one of the screws just came off, leaving the body inside.

I need those threaded holes in order to install the pump!

Thinking of burning the screw body with a soldering iron and then forcing a steel screw in, to clean the thread.

Would this be a good idea? Maybe drilling would do better? Anything to be careful about?


texts: What makes a bike stay upright when moving?

texts:
What makes a bike stay upright when it is in motion?  What is the relationship between speed and stability?  Is it a linear relationship?

I could ask this on the physics site however I am hoping for a relatively simple answer.  I took an introductory class in physics in University so basic physics is appreciated but nothing too gnarly.

I think that it is not the spinning mass of the wheel that is keeping the bike upright.  I read a study recently stating that if you have a wheel with identical mass spinning backwards beside the bike the bike will not lose stability.  (I am not sure where I read the study).

Why do bikes stay upright when on a roller?


texts: My friend wants to sell a second hand helmet, I strongly dissagree, am I correct?

texts:
My friend has recently purchased a new bike. The guy who sold it to him was clearly giving up the sport, so he gave to said friend his helmet as well (MET parachute for MTB).

As my friend already had a functioning helmet, he is now trying to sell the second one (within our rough group of people with whom we ride primarily). Now I personally believe it is just morally wrong to do this as he cannot know what the helmet has lived through, although it appears to be free of dents and has few scratches.

So am I being silly or is it just wrong to sell a second hand bicycle helmet?

Note: He sells the helmet he was given with the bike.


texts: There are tons that are out there for recording routes, and such.  There's also the physical mounting.  Is the iPhone actually good/useful for bikers?


texts: Can I upgrade a Norco Yorkville for a 260 pound rider plus cargo?

texts:
Hello I have a 2017 Norco Yorkville. I was breaking rear spokes so bought a better rim with tougher spokes. Now my suspension seat post is wobbling.
What else can I upgrade on the bike for a 300 pound plus load? I could trade up to the next level bike but prefer to stay with this one.

Aluminium 7005 frame, 21 speed (3x7) with rim-brakes and suspension seat post.  https://www.norco.com/bikes/city/hybrids/yorkville/yorkville/   With a MSRP of $369 USD its above a BSO, but still an entry-level model.


texts: Simple brake test, pulling the brakes and pushing the bike by hand

texts:
After installing and adjusting, there is this test, where you pull the front brake and try to push the bike forward, it should offer enough resistance to lift the rear wheel.

Then you test the rear brake, by pulling the lever and pushing... backwards? If I push backwards, it does offer enough resistance to lift the front wheel, but if I push forward, the bike will easily slide on the floor.

Is this correct? This seriously confuses me.

Test riding during rain or dry weather, the rear brake leaves a lot to be desired, it slows down, but seems like it takes ages to stop the bike. This isn't a question about braking technique, it's more about braking adjusting.

Is there any adjusting needed to be made in order for the rear brake to contribute for more stopping power, to make it behave like the front brake?


texts: For what kind of bike and under what riding conditions would a Biologic FreeDrive Chain Cover be suitable?

texts:
I've got a Strida 5.2 and absolutely love the greaseless experience.

For ordinary chain bikes, when could a Biologic FreeDrive Chain Cover be used without causing troubles, but only provide a cleaner ride?


texts:
I have an 8 inch rear wheel off an adult scooter.  It appears to have suffered crush damage - at a guess someone's driven a car over the wheel while on its side.

The bend is smooth and covers perhaps a quarter of the rim on one side only.  However there is some crinkling on the outside.

And from the side

My gut feeling is that this will go badly if I try to straighten it.   If it were steel the chance of success would be much higher.

Owner tells me it has never ever been driven over, but they didn't get it new.  So its likely been used like this for several years.

Question Is it saveable? either by straightening it, or by leaving it as-is ?  Or by bending the rest of the flange inward to match the squashed section?


texts: How to mount a compact pump onto a full-suspension frame?

texts:
Many FS mountain bikes have a weird shaped seat tube. I have managed to strap tube to the bottom of the down tube with electric tape, but am now struggling to purchase and mound a small pump. As is evident from the picture, the bike lacks water bottle mounting screws, where compact frames are typically stored.

What would be a secure mounting option for a pump?


texts: Barn Bicycle Find Information appreciated

texts: I am seeking information on this bicycle found in our farm shed.  The bike is blue with very thin white stripes.  There is a serial number on the top of the bike where the seat attaches.  It is 4E8736  It is located in Canada, possibly Canadian or US made. Any information greatly appreciated, thank you!


texts: Chainwheel compatibility with Shimano Alfine (single ring)

texts:
The chainring on my Shimano Alfine 39T crankset (FC-S501) is severely worn and needs to be replaced.

Can I replace it with any chain ring that has the same BCD, bolt count and teeth?

I am looking in particular at replacing it with a chainwheel from the 105 range (Y1M339000). Will it fit?

I am concerned mostly about the shape of the tabs not meshing properly with the spider, or does it not matter? Do all Shimano chainrings have the same cutout?


texts: How many spokes can break before I need a new wheel?

texts:
3 of the spokes on my wheel are broken. How can I tell if the wheel is still good to use?

Can I just replace the spokes or do I need to buy a brand new wheel?


texts: Should i upgrade from Skultura 400D with 105 to giant tcr advanced with ultegra di2?

texts:
I have had the merida skultura 400d and have ridden around 1100kms. Would there be any value in getting giant tcr advanced pro disc or the propel advanced pro? My rides are generally 80kms a week usually by myself at an average of 23kms per hour with average cadence of 65. Would an aero bike make a difference? Or would i be better in getting aero wheels on my skultura?

Many thanks
Sandeep


texts: Lockout Lego on after going down a flight of stairs

texts:
I recently was biking on some roads with my Specialized Pitch Sport 2015 MTB when I found a dirt trail, and forgot to shut off my lockout. I did a bit of hopping on my suspension, but the path was relatively smooth. I only realised after riding down a staircase that my suspension was locked.

Did I damage my suspension by going down the staircase, hopping on the suspension or going 30 mph on somewhat smooth asphalt?

FYI the fork is a Sr suntour xct modified by Specialized and I weigh 100 pounds.


texts: How to gain confidence with new "big" bike?

texts: I just aquired for the first time a 29er mtb, the 2017 cube acid! Although it is the right size for me, no19 for my 1.81m height, I feel it's HUUUGE for me, a whole lot of a bike, and I actualy feel afraid ! of it! Will I get used to it and feel safe and comfortable with my new bike? Any method to gain confidence with it?


texts: Why would I need a torque wrench for a bicycle?

texts:
I was rather surprised to find a question about choosing a torque wrench on this site. I haven't cycled for years, but many years ago when I actually cycled I would do with a set of ordinary wrenches just fine.

What bicycle maintenance tasks would require a torque wrench and can't be done with an ordinary wrench?


texts: What's the difference between galvanised brake cables versus stainless steel?

texts: I'm looking at buying a set of new brake cables and I'm wondering what the difference is between the stainless steel ones and the galvanised cable?  I'm only getting relatively cheap ones but I can't find an obvious description of the benefits/disadvantages.


texts: Is my rear shifter broken? Ultegra 6800 shifter, 11 speeds, 9 clicks, only 8 causing cable tension change

texts:
I was riding and noticed that I wasn't getting to the two or three smallest gears. Shifting along the eight or nine largest gears were fine though.

I checked the limiters and the cable tension and that was fine. After a lot of adjustment, I still couldn't get the full range. I then realized that I was only getting 9 clicks out of the shifter when instead I was expecting 10 clicks. Additionally, the first click (from no tension) didn't add any tension to the cable at all. I tried this with the cable off the derailleur and using a pair of pliers to manually pull on the cable.

Is my shifter fried?


texts:
Bike noob here.

I have a Quando rear hub with a busted cap?  By cap I mean the cap covering the bearings beneath the cone.

This cap is separate from the bearings.  It hold the balls in place.  Is it possible to replace this with a Sealed Bearing.  If not, am I able to purchase just the cap or must I replace the entire hub?

I can post some pictures if this isn't descriptive enough.


texts:
During a stroke, I encounter one or two (not always in the same pedal position) where the resistance is high. If I spin the crank freely (on the bike, wheel off ground), it will quickly come to a stop at one of these points. So, part of the stroke is fine. At these points, spinning the cranks backwards, the chain seem to collapse at the top. I feel like maybe the back cassette isn't spinning as free as it should.
Does anyone have any idea of what this could be?
I feel I take good care of my bike. Cleaning it from dirt about once per week and degreasing/greasing the chain typically twice per month.
I'm fairly new to bike repairs so any help and pointers are appreciated.  Note:  The bike is fairly new; only about a month old. I've ridden about 2500 km.


texts: Does a singlspeed conversion kit feel different than a freewheel?

texts:
I'm trying to get a steel singlespeed and I find it quite hard to find something in the market that is light and with brakes.

Will one notice any difference if, for example, one gets a Cinelli Vigorelli road frame:

with a kit like this:

compared to a similar bike frame without brakes used for track races?

Is it noisier, less stiff or something like that?


texts: What tool is needed to remove KMC X11 w/MissingLink, 11-speed chain?

texts: I need to take it out and then clean it- its full of sand. Maybe even replace it. Does any universal chain tool work. Should I get one from the manufacturer.


texts: Is a V-brake lever (specifically the Avid Speed Dial 5) compatible with a side-pull road brake (specifically the Colnago X brake)? The bike is being converted from track bar (bar-end brake levers) to flat bar.


texts:
Can anybody help me with any tips on fine-tuning the adjustments on this derailleur (Force 22)? The positioning as far as I can tell is good, I can stick a penny between the teeth of the big ring and the outer cage with the derailleur in that position, and the hash marks are aligned with the ring.
I am having trouble getting it to make consistent upshifts. It sometimes takes, but more often takes more than one crank revolution for the chain to make it up to the big ring, and all the while it is bouncing/jamming inside the derailleur cage and scraping all over the big ring before it catches. A couple of times the FD has shifted the chain off to the outside (and also to the inside when I'm dropping from big --> small. This happens in pretty much all of the cassette positions, not just at the lowest gears. I figure if I can get it to work in big-big then it will work okay elsewhere with some fine tuning.
I've tightened the cable as far as it will go with the barrel adjuster screwed in, then have tried adding tension to the cable using the adjuster but I can't seem to get any consistency. There are two videos on YouTube for this and I've watched them both...no apparent improvement?
LBS (which built up this bike) is incompetent and I will not be going back. I got it with visible play in the crankset and headset, misaligned shifters, overtorqued stem bolts, the lot...so I have to figure this out myself.
Thanks!
Edit: Took to another LBS, and they couldn't get it right either. Putting the groupset on eBay. Unbelievable how unintuitive it is to tune and set up. Moral of the story if you want to avoid headaches: buy Shimano.


texts: Cantilever brakes gets very weak if it rains

texts:
I have a bicycle with cantilever brakes.

Under light rain or dry weather the braking action is not very powerful, but good enough.

However, under heavy rain the braking action gets close to 0.
This become especially problematic if I carry luggage or am going downhill (it can take > 100m to stop under theses conditions).

What can I do to improve this?

Note: the pads are a bit worn out and I will replace them soon, this is however not the source of my problem (encountered it while they was new/ well adjusted)

Edit:

Finally I got a heavy rain and could test out the proposed solutions.
I fixed the brake angle on both front and back wheel.
I changed only front brakes pas with newer ones (thicker, bigger water drain, but shorter ones).

Yoke angle did yield a noticeable improvement on the braking action, wether wet or dry
Changing the pads yielded the a huge difference in braking action under wet weather only (wear was not a factor here)

Conclusion: Both technique should be used together. Choosing an appropriate pad is VERY important.


texts: What is the technical name for the push-on type of wheels that are found on some bicycle trailers?

texts:
The trailer wheels have their own axle that stays in place via a spring-loaded ball bearing.

(They are quite different from the various axles usually found on bicycles themselves; those have some kind of bolt or clamp at both ends and go into dropouts.)
They’re described in
wikipedia

Most trailers have a separate axle for each wheel, like those used on
a bicycle. These separate axles usually mount directly on the frame
using either threaded nuts, a quick-release mechanism, or some press
fit arrangement.

and in
this question

...a single sided wheelchair hub. They are light and designed so the
wheels are easily removable, which is handy for a trailer that will be
packed away often.

but is there an accepted name or term?