texts: What to do after an accident with a child?

texts:
I was biking home last night and had a minor bike accident with a child of around 12 or 13. It was around 6pm on a mixed use pedestrian+bike path and completely dark, with little lighting on the path.

I was going uphill maybe going 8mph, he was on the downhill. I was well lit (headlight + white flashing light on the front of my bike, with full reflectors including reflective vest), he was unlit, no reflectors (except half a yellow reflector on one pedal). I saw him at the crest of the hill, he was on his side of the path, I was on mine. Then not more than 10 or 20 feet in front of me, he suddenly swerved into me. I was against a fence and had no where to go, so I yelled at him and just clamped on the brakes as hard as I could before he hit me.

I think the left side of his bike clipped the left side of mine, but both of us ended up on the ground, he seemed ok, and got up on his own after laying there for a moment -- he did have a bleeding finger, but he was able to bend it without pain. He wasn't wearing a helmet.  I asked him where his mom was and he said she was biking nearby, so I asked him where I could find her. He called her on his friend's cell phone (who also had no helmet or lights or reflectors) and told her to come.

I asked if he was ok or if he hit his head, he said he was fine and didn't hit his head. Mom showed up a few minutes later (no lights, reflectors or helmets) and said "What did he do?" so I told her what happened and pointed out that he needs to have reflectors and a helmet, and she said "but it was light out when we started riding". I also told her to check him for head injury just in case he hit his head on the ground, and she kind of rolled her eyes at me. My bike was ok, I was ok, he seemed ok, and mom just wanted to leave so I just left it at that and continued home without incident (I did discover the next day that my head light was scraped up and the light mount was cracked, but I had a spare mount so that was easy to fix), but after leaving I'm wondering what else I should have done?

We didn't even exchange last names, I got one picture of him and his bike with my cell phone camera but that's it.

Should I have called it in to the police? California law requires riders under 18 to wear a helmet and to have lights at night. Should I have said more to the mom about helmet and reflector use? Should I have gotten his full name in case I discovered significant damage or injury later?

Or since neither of us was injured was just biking away the right thing to do?

This is my first real accident in over 15 years of riding, I always figured that when I did have an accident it would be with a car, I never thought that it would be with a snot-nosed (literally) kid on a bike path.


texts: Any Issues installing STI Brake/Shifter levers to bike with direct-pull V-Cantilever brakes?

texts: I want to install drop bars in my hybrid bike and also thinking of getting STI brake/shifter lever. The bike has V-Brakes. Is there any issues on doing this that I should be concerned about?


texts: Are any anti-theft GPS trackers dynamo powered?

texts:
I am considering an anti-theft GPS tracker for my bicycle, but I am worried about battery life.

Are there any that recharge from a hub dynamo?


texts:
I only bike for pleasure and sometimes to get around.  I know very little about bikes.

A few months ago I got a B'Twin mountain bike.  Where I live now I do not feel safe biking in the city so I only use it on the weekends when the weather is good to get out to nature (on some otherwise clean looking dirt roads where many people bike).

Despite the light usage I already got a flat three times.  In the past I used to bike to work every day (with a similar but simpler bike) and I have never gotten a flat in several years.

What could be the reason for all the flats and what I can do to prevent them?  The first time I got a puncture I took the bike to the shop to get it fixed, so I don't know what caused it.  The second time I thought it's time I learnt how to do this myself, so I changed the inner tube alone.  I found a thorn.  The third time I found a small piece of metal wire stuck in the tyre, which may or may not have been the cause of the tiny hole in the inner tube.

I don't have great job stability so I expect to have to move often (1-2 years) and unfortunately I cannot keep a bike for a long time.  Thus I am looking for a solution which is not too expensive.  While many people will consider this bicycle quite cheap, for me it was the most expensive bicycle purchase so far ... as I said unfortunately I can't make a long-term investment.

Am I getting flats because I go on dirt roads too often?

Or is it because of the quality of the tyre?  Should I change that?  I can find different compatible tyres between 9 EUR – 40 EUR and practically all are advertised as puncture resistant, so it's not clear to me if there is a significant difference between them.  What I care about mostly is avoiding flats, not high performance (low weight, etc.)

Should I consider a "puncture proof" inner tube instead, with the slime inside?  I read mixed opinions about those and it seems like it's not the best choice for my situation.

Should I consider a tyre liner instead?

To sum up, I am looking for an affordable and simple way to reduce the frequency of punctures.  I need an affordable way because unfortunately I may have to sell the bicycle in less than a year.

Notes: I keep the pressure around 50 psi; the tyre has 35-65 written on it.  I read this post where the ultimate solution was to change the tyre, but it's not clear if it's also the right solution for me, and it's not clear if I really have to go for an expensive tyre go get useful puncture resistance, or if the standard B'Twin brand will do just a well (even if it otherwise offers lower performance).


texts:
I'm doing road cycling, on hills, over long distances.

Typically at the moment, I'll do two 30-40 mile evening rides in just under 2 hours. Generally either 50ft per mile climb or 100ft per mile climb. These are fine and even going straight from work, with just water, I'm fine energy wise.

However, Sunday's are long ride days, typically 5-8 hours of cycling over 70-100 miles, typically with 100ft per mile climb ratio or more.

I ride with a guy 5 years older than me with one year more cycling training.

However, he rarely needs to eat on the ride, and he'll manage with a few gels and his energy drink.

Whereas, I'll have chugged 1-2 litres of chocolate milk, four rounds of bread (in the form of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches), a (big) bag of minstrels (yeah, jelly babies are better, but, I loathe them). PLUS the energy drinks and gels.

I've always had 'issues' with blood sugar crashes if I don't eat enough on a regular day. I seem to burn it fast.

What can I do to help re-train my metabolism to work better?

Fitness wise, my RHR is around 54bpm, my MHR is 192 (based on highest garmin logged figure), my BMI is bang on 22. The guy I ride with has an RHR of 46, has peaked his MHR at 199 and is probably (though I've never asked) about right on his BMI too. So yes, the fact I can't hold pace with him is because he has an edge fitnesswise, but we have a 'system' of him not waiting for me when I start to drop on the hills, so he's still setting PRs, but still doesn't need to load the calories like me.

I'm aware that my body stores energy in the form of glycogen in my muscles, and it's this supply that is burned first, followed by converting fat to use or any fast carbs I take in. And I'm eating a good amount of carbs for storing up the energy. Saturday night is typically a big pasta trough and a big bowl of porridge before I ride. The guy I ride with on the other hand is gluten intolerant and not taking pains to carb load. And often turns up hung over too. Just to rub it in :)

My fitness is clearly improving, I'm constantly moving on my PRs etc, however, I'm just not getting more 'efficient'.

Which means I'm carrying more weight in food which won't help me keep the pace will it: ;-)


texts: What U-lock has a reasonable weight to safety ratio?

texts:
For my new city bike I'm thinking of getting a U-lock. Price of the bike is around $900, so I probably don't way to spend more than 10% of its price on the lock.

So far, Kryptonite locks look pretty good, altough that may be due to hype. Their "yellow series" locks seem pretty safe, but I doubt I would lug around a 2 kilo beast for long. The mini series lock looks nice too (and cheaper!) with its 1 kilo of weight. But is it secure enough? Are there are (perhaps less hyped, but good) brands that I should consider?

Note that I won't be parking my bike on the street for too long. I just want to be able to pop into a store without being on a paranoid lookout for my bike every second of my grocery shopping. Is going for the more expensive lock overkill in such scenario?


texts: Is there a preferred frame size calculator?

texts: I am buying a new road bike. I have looked online for calculators but I am getting different answers on which frame size I should get. I've got 53 cm on a calculator that only considers inseam height and 56 cm on another one that also considers riders height so I don't know which one is correct because I don't want to end up with a bike that is either too big or too small for me.


texts: What do I need to know about fitting new wheels on a bike?

texts:
My girlfriend has had the wheels stolen from her bike. I'd like to replace them, but we're working with a limited budget so I'm going to do the work myself and source the parts second hand.

I've done a basic bike maintenance course but beyond that I'm relatively clueless. I know that the new wheels need to be 700C's, and that the new rear gear cassette needs to be 7-speed (I guess because that's what the gear shifters are) but I have the following questions:

Will any 700C wheel work with any gear cassette? From browsing eBay it seems that some of the wheels are specified as working with 7-speed or 8-speed cassettes?
The first question aside, will any cassette screw on to the mounting on the wheel I buy, or are there different threads?
Should I buy a free wheel or a cassette? I'm not even sure what the difference is!


texts: Is it OK for a child's bike to have a radially-laced rear wheel?

texts:
I was looking at the Early Rirder Belter 16" child's bike and noticed that the rear wheel has radial spokes on both sides.

In wheels built for adult bikes this is considered bad practice. From Sheldon Brown's site:-

  Wheels with hub brakes and drive wheels should never be radially
  spoked. Due to the near-perpendicular angle of the spoke to the hub's
  tangent, any torque applied at the hub of a radial-spoked wheel will
  result in a very great increase in spoke tension, almost certainly
  causing hub or spoke failure.

These bikes seem to be popular and get good reviews, so it seems that this isn't an issue in practice. Is this because of the small wheels and the fact that children don't produce so much torque?


texts:
I have a Civia Bryant which I ride around the city and to work everyday.  Yesterday, while walking the bike into my apartment building, I noticed that there were noises coming from the front wheel.  Later, when I was able to take a closer look, I noticed that the disc brake rotor was making contact with the brakes and that the tire was touching the fender too.  I removed the wheel and tried to put it back while making sure it was aligned properly, but as soon as I tighten the skewer, it becomes misaligned again.

I haven't taken any spills nor has the bike gone through something that could explain this.  I do ride in NYC streets everyday and when in traffic cannot avoid all potholes, but that's it.

Does anyone have any idea about what the cause of this could be and how to go about fixing it?

Thanks in Advance.

Edit: I should point out that I changed the quick-release skewer that came with the bike for a locking skewer.  It is when tightening the hex nut for this skewer that the wheel becomes misaligned.


texts: Do tyre savers made of a chain catch debris as effectively as tyre savers made of a wire? Are they practical?

texts:
I get a lot of slow punctures in my rear wheel (I think mainly from glass), so have been looking into installing a cheap tyre saver there. They are meant to catch the debris before it gets pushed into the inner tube in the course of several revolutions.
They seem to throw off a lot of spray in wet weather (see Andrew R Stewart's post on https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1102564-flint-catchers-diy.html ), and to avoid spray/mud going into my chain (positioning illustrated in image 1 - not my bike) I want to fix the tyre saver at the trailing edge of my fixed rear mudguard (also for easy access to remove any larger debris which gets stuck; image 2 illustrates positioning).
A wire tyre saver fixed to the rear mudguard seems likely to struggle maintaining contact with the tyre as it vibrates with the mudguard (see Andrew R Stewart's post on https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1102564-flint-catchers-diy.html ), so I want to try a flexible tyre saver made of chain instead (see image 3). (To give the tyre saver enough clearance that it won't bang against the rear mudguard, I would bend the rear mudguard upwards and let the tyre saver hang downwards).
However, first I want to check whether there are any disadvantages of a flexible tyre saver made of a chain vs made of a wire in your experience. Does a chain tyre saver make any irritating rattling sound compared to a wire tyre saver? Does a chain tyre saver pick debris of a tyre as effectively as one made of wire? If rattling is an issue, what is the best (non-rattly) material from which to make a flexible tyre-saver?
(NB I am considering alternative solutions to frequent punctures as well, but treat puncture-resistant tyres, injecting tubes with sealant etc as off-topic for the purpose of this question. They have already been discussed a lot on this site and are not without their disadvantages, eg increased weight/inertia/cost, so I want this page to be focussed on tyre savers in their own right. Do share tips on any installations which might shield the drivetrain from tyre saver spray in image 1 though.)


texts: Suggestions for protecting jeans from saddle clamp bolt

texts:
I’ve got a bike whose seat post uses the traditional style saddle clamp. It works! The saddle is firmly attached to the bike. Hooray. However. This bike is sort of a “café racer” - I mainly pootle around town on it in street clothes. No padding or spandex here. I got a new saddle, which I love, but due to its shape my jeans are taking a beating in the inseam area:

Due to the way I have it adjusted, the bolt that secures the saddle onto the seat post has its ends sticking out past the edge of the saddle. These are catching on my jeans every few pedal strokes and it’s taking a toll on their structural integrity.

Options:

Buy cycling jeans with reinforced crotch. I probably will, but I’d like to solve this another way in order to give them a shot at a long life, since they aren’t cheap.
Move the saddle forward a bit. This would work, but the bike wouldn’t fit me as well, which would make riding it less fun, which would make me do it less, which is counterproductive. Though it would make my jeans last longer...
Find another bolt that’s about six threads shorter. Possible; would require quite a lot of rummaging in the bolt bucket at my LBC (local bike collective).
Get a new seat post with the newer style clamp. I would like to do this, but I couldn’t find one in the right diameter at the LBC, and I try to confine my parts-buying activity to their used parts bins on principle (and to save cash). I’ll keep looking.
Convert this seat post to the newer style clamp. I would like to do this as well. It’d have the additional benefit of covering that hole where the split saddle looks right down into the open seat post. If anyone has tips on how to do that, I found this Q which could use some answers.
Ride with my knees out all wacky. Works but isn’t sustainable. (Not least because I look like a dork.)

That’s about all I’ve come up with. Does anyone have any other ideas for things I could do to work around this while I wait for the right replacement parts to come along?


texts:
A manual of a suspension fork states that the quick release handle must be in horizontal position, pointing backwards.

Is there any technical reason for this? Another natural position can be pointing upwards along the fork blade, and I cannot think of a reason why it is inferior.


texts: Does anyone make a clamping spoke wrench?

texts: I'd like to find some sort of "spoke wrench" which actually clamps onto the nipple (not the spoke proper), so that nipples that are slightly rounded-over (or, like aluminum ones, have a propensity to round-over) can be adjusted without further damaging the nipple.


texts: Can I use a 27.5 fork on a original 29er (2015 Cannondale Tramount 3)?

texts:
I have a Cannondale Tramount 3 e-bike that I would like to make better and lighter in every way I can for as little cost as possible, but with quality used or discounted parts.

Can someone help me with a tip for which fork to use (now it has a Suntour XCR, which is over 2.6kg) I think that with a 27.5 it will stand a litle more on its head but I think I still will have place for a 2.3 x 29 inch wheel. Originally it had 1.9, now it has lightweight 2.2 Maxxis tyres.


texts: 39-53t chainring on full suspension bike

texts:
I have a Giant Reign x1 bike which has 2X factory installed 22-36t 4 bolt Sram Truvativ chainring. The question is, is it possible to find 39-53t 4 bolt chainring that can be fitted to this bike  or if it's not possible what tooth ratios are possible?????

The reason I want to increase tooth ratio is my bike doesn't go fast enough on downhills no matter how fast I keep pedaling but in the same trail with my hardtail 3X chainring bike I can gain speed much better.

The highest speed record on trail, downhill, with full suspension bike: 61km/h (it's not possible to go faster unless the hill is steep slope) and with my hardtail one: 74km/h (It was possible to go faster)


texts:
So contacted a bike restoration place for a quote to respray my BSA, the guy asked me do I want 'coach lines'. Too embarrassed to ask what they were I just said yes.

So what are they exactly?


texts: I have a full suspension canyon neuron and after each wash, I'm finding that just water doesn't cut it. Does anyone know of any good products to use when cleaning my bike? e.g Mucoff.


texts:
I’m in the process of restoring my Dad’s bike so that I can start riding again. All the badges are intact but I can’t find any information about the bike. He’s had it for as long as I can remember (my whole life) so I’m assuming it was made in Japan in the 1970’s. Can anyone identify this badge?

Edit: I don’t believe it’s a Hero.  The sticker on the up tube says “Made in Japan.” I’ve searched a few Japanese manufactures that I found on Wikipedia but couldn’t find a Hawk reference on the few hyperlinks I could access.

Here is an image of the bike.

Please keep in mind that the handle bars, seat and front fork in this image are not the originals. It’s a standard 10 speed road bike.


texts: What tool do I need to press fit a "Spanish" bottom bracket?

texts:
I bought a BMX style bottom bracket called a "Spanish" bottom bracket for a dirt jumper.
Instead of using a hammer and a block of wood, I would like to do it correctly with a press... however, I'm not sure what specs I should be looking for in the press?
How do I buy the right press for the job?
I know asking for specific products is against the rules, so if you could just explain the specs for what I should Google to find the right press.
This is my bottom bracket... it is 19mm inner diameter and 73mm width

This is my frame


texts: First Road Bike - Some Options and Issues

texts:
I am looking the market for my first road bike.
I am planing to be using the bike, couple times per week for 1 - 2 hour rides, and maybe on the weekend some longer ones, around UK Yorkshire.

There are two things that I would like to know.

Is there significant difference, on how one road bike will handle uneven roads compared to others? Is there a way to know that from specs?

Also, I am looking to find a balance between performance and comfort. I know for a fact I wont be racing, but will taking long leisure rides on country side. If I where to choose between happy lower back, and 5/10 minutes faster within the hour, I could choose happy lower back. Again, I am not sure if there clues on the geometry of the bike that can help me spot the difference on this.


texts:
I was riding home today (with clipless pedals; SPD) and noticed my ankle was twisting strangely with each rotation of my legs. I had just gotten to the top of a massive hill. I pulled off to the sidewalk and inspected my pedal.

Turns out that the pedal had begun to loosen (perhaps it was never tight enough?) and the force of me pedaling on it had bent it a bit. I was quite upset because I was still 20 minutes away from home.

I tried getting the pedal off, but I was unable to loosen it (with a wrench, or hex key from the side) What should I do? I'm thinking of taking a powerdrill and forcing it out. Will this be an okay solution? Will my crank arm be damaged at all?

Here is a picture

as you can see the bend is very imperceptible. You can really tell when you pedal on it though. From the picture you can also see how loose the pedal got when it started to bend. Do you guys think there is hope in saving the crank?

Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to take this to my LBS and see what they say. I'll let you know what happens!

EDIT: Turns out that the pedals were not installed tight enough and it resulted in some cross-threading. My LBS said that the crank wasn't damaged too much. He re-threaded the crank and said that it should be okay, but that I should watch out in case that happened again.


texts: When going up hills, my gears drop 2 to 3 slots. Is this my cable tension?

texts: I own an old bike, with the old style gear shifters (levers). I have been trying to get the cable tension right. However, it seems to be getting worse. Whenever I am on a slight incline or just in a high gear on flat land the gears drop (involuntarily). Is there a certain way to fix this problem? Could it be anything besides for my cable tension?


texts: Can you identify this "BSB 400" steel frame?

texts:
I was given quite a nice old tourer some years ago. I think it was a custom-built frame. The only identification is "BSB 400" in a 1980s typeface:

It's Reynolds 531, has cantilever bosses and 130mm rear drop-out spacing.

It's an extremely pleasant bike to ride, and I have stripped it down to have the frame repainted.

Any ideas who built it or where it came from?

Mine has cantilever brakes, however I've seen another with callipers.


texts:
What makes the bicycles in Amsterdam suitable for riding with jeans on?

The Dutch are known to wear regular clothes while cycling rather than cycling specific clothing.

In cycling forums, people often say that jeans are uncomfortable for cycling especially in the rain. When jeans are wet, friction increases which can cause chafing and increase the wear and tear on the jeans and the saddle. The Dutch must have a way of wearing jeans comfortably since regular clothes include jeans. Cycling friendly pants tend to be silkier and thinner so that friction decreases, and more flexible so that there's less pressure on our perineum. Even with a saddle cutout, the seams on jeans can put too much pressure there.

I'm thinking that these are the possible factors:

Saddle height
Saddle setback
Upright posture
Cadence
Power
Coasting percentage
Saddle shape
Pants sold in the Netherlands tend to be more cycling friendly such as
jeans with softer seams
The commuting times are too short for the discomfort to develop

Also, can you have a fast or powerful human powered bike that's jeans friendly? Like hybrid, cyclocross, MTB, and road bikes.

Someone who's into fitness and speed, bikes to work, and wouldn't want to carry an extra pair of pants would be interested in getting that answer.


texts: Should I wait for clear views of the sky before turning on my Garmin Edge GPS?

texts:
I have a Garmin Edge 200 GPS unit. I commute from the center of Melbourne CBD, where there are many tall buildings and not a good line of sight to satellites. I park in an underground garage, so there isn't an option to turn on the GPS for a few minutes before I set off.

I've found through experimentation that if I turn on the GPS as soon as I start riding, it takes longer to get a satellite lock than if I wait until I have clearer views of the sky and then turn it on.

So if you consider the first 5 kilometers of the ride, if I turn it on at kilometer 0, it can be 5 kilometers (or even longer) before it gets a lock. But if I turn it on at kilometer 2 (when I'm clear of the tallest buildings), it will get a lock almost immediately.

Is there any basis to my experience? Am I better off waiting until I'm a bit clearer, or is there another strategy I can use to try to capture my entire ride?

Update:

I've experimented with a few things, and have found that the most reliable method seems to be to turn it on and then not move until I get a fix. This works quickly regardless of the buildings around me. It seems that temporarily blocking a satellite by moving makes it take a lot longer.


texts: What is a good starter mountin bike? (in France)

texts:
I have been riding a road bike for the past year. And now, I want to see if mountain biking is for me or not.

Ideally, it would be a bike that could handle a lot of climbs and be reliable for less than 700€.

I live in France if that helps reduce the number of brands/models available.


texts: Grocery Shopping by bike, expanding my cargo options cheaply

texts: Can I take a shopping cart like say this one and safely attach it to a bike? I'd like to also take it into the store with me as well.


texts: SRAM X4 MTB Rear Derailleur H-Limit screw maximum open, but still on 7th Cog?

texts:
I own a 6 months old Rockrider 5.2 mountain bike.

Everything was great until recently I noticed that the Rear Derailleur of my bike doesn't reach the highest gear cog, which is 8th. Its always stuck on 7th.

I tried opening the H-Limit screw completely and it even came off, but my chain doesn't still move to the highest cog.

I have a beautiful Sunday morning ride planned in 6 hours from now. Can anybody help?


texts: What do you do if you find your stolen bike's frame on ebay?

texts:
I am 85% certain that I see my bike's frame on eBay. It costs almost 2k with all the components and I see the frame on sale for $400 with seat-post and fork only. All my stickers not in the pictures(3) however the frame is the same size and picture only shows the side with no identifiable mark.

The frame itself is rare, not expensive but the brand is not widely sold. And if its sold used, its almost always a complete bike. The manufacturer doesn't sell frame only.

It was stolen, from a bike rack, in open daylight in downtown in big city, I suspect that I forgot to lock it. Lock was on the frame and so was my helmet. I reported the bike stolen on bike index and did file a police report. And posted the bike on local FB groups for stolen bikes.

It is now on sale on ebay, 5 days after about 100 miles away from where I am. Item says local pickup only?

UPDATE: I am now less certain that it is indeed my bike. More like 40%


texts: Changing 7-speed Shimano cassette to 10-speed

texts: I have a bike with a 7 speed cassette. My question is can I swap it to a cassette with more speeds (like 10). I will change the derailleur to a compatible one.


texts: Changing from 5 to 6 cog freewheel on 1986 Stumpjumper-Sport

texts:
Refining a prior posted question.  15 speed 1986 Specialized Stumpjumper-Sport has original 5 cog freewheel, 14-30. Original Analog shifters.  Biggest cog needs replacement.   Individual cogs are no longer available.   5 cogs is plenty for my needs, but 5 cog freewheels seem pretty rare these days.  Shimano makes two versions of a 6 cog freewheel that are sold through Walmart.com for $10 - $15. 14-28 (MF-TZ20), or 14-34 (MF-ZH30).  Prices seems pretty good.     What are the issues involved in transitioning from a 5 cog to one of these 6 coggers?

Would it fit in the same axel space?
6 cog chain compatibility spec states 3/32".  Does that imply a Shimano Hyperglide chain?
If so, would SH chain be compatible with existing front chainwheel cogs?
Any derailleur/cog clearance issues switching from 30 to 34 cog?


texts: Can I operate more than one motorized wheel from one motor control unit?

texts: Can you use 2 ebike wheels front and rear or two rear ones on a three wheeler tricycle but operated by the one controller?


texts: Can I fix my very small bike with a bike fit?

texts: I used this bike for about 140kms and when my last 55 km ride was over I was feeling pain in my elbows and numbing on my arms so I started looking into my bike size and fit. It is a new bike so I probably made a mistake on the size I bought. It is a 55cm frame and I am 6 feet. Do you believe it can be fixed?


texts: When I pedal the rear wheel is not turning

texts:
I have a very old bike. It used to work perfectly, but just recently it happened that when I pedal the rear wheel is not turning. Just for notice I pedal in the correct direction, brakes are not stopping the wheel... The chain is properly mounted, the casette or freehub (I don't really know how it is called, that thing on which the chain resides on the back wheel) is spinning while I pedal, but the wheel is not. So I guess the problem is somewhere in the back wheel.

So I thought that something is completely broken, but sometimes the wheel is turning when I pedal. Thus I don't know if it is totally broken or is maybe just clogged, or whatever.

Is there a way to just repair it without buying new things?

Thank you for your time and answers (p.s. sorry for my bad English)


texts:
I am about to upgrade my CX bike from the old 105-5700 (10spd) to Rival 22 (11spd). I have all the parts already and while reading the crankset/BB (GXP) manual I noticed the following:

Use the provided spacers with wide axle cranksets on 135 mm OLD rear triangle frames.

My frame does have 135mm OLD (and 68mm english bottom bracket).

As far as I understand, the Rival crankset is a road component designed for the standard 130mm road bike rear spacing and 68mm BB but in my case the bike has 135mm spacing.

How does this affect me? Can I use the spacers with my 68mm bracket (GXP has two 2.5mm spacers but I assume they won't fit because they are for 73mm BB AND/OR the crankset won't accomodate them)? Should I even worry about this (it's just 2.5mm on one side and the chain is flexible anyways)?


texts:
I have fitted a frame bag to my carbon bike frame so I have lost my water bottle mounts.  As it's carbon frame I'm aware that you can't mount clamps on the carbon like you would for steel.  However, I have come across the Top Peak Versamount, do you think this will be ok?
All help and views appreciated.
Mike
https://www.topeak.com/us/en/products/accessories/1093-versamount,


texts:
I have an 11-25T cassette with a Sora derailleur on my road bike. There are a ton of hills around me that I am struggling on when I'm on my road bike but not my mountain. I can easily remove the cassette, and I am wondering: Would upgrading to a 11-34 or 11-32 cassette be a simple swap? Would I need a new chain with more links/less links removed to accommodate the 11-32/34 cassette?)

It would be neat to have my fast setup and a climbing setup with a chain to match each cassette, though it would be simpler to use the same chain for both. Let me know if you have any experience doing a swap like this. Any information is well appreciated.


texts: Can I use fiberglass cloth and resin to fix tiny holes in fenders?

texts: I'm trying to restore an adult tricycle and the fenders have multiple very small rust holes in them.  Can I cut fiberglass cloth and make a "sandwich" with them with the fender in the middle and then cover both sides with resin? Or would a substance like "Bondo" be better?


texts:
What's the performance difference between getting speedplay zero stainless and titanium, 206g vs 164g.
Only focus on weight and not quality of bearings etc.

I suspect the difference won't be noticeable, but I would like to see the math :-)

Lets say I pedal at 80 rpm, crank length 175mm, how many watt will I save getting the titanium edition? Feel free to define any other conditions, that I have left out.

Edit
A lot of comments and answers, thanks :-) But they don't really address my question. As I wrote, I would like to see the calculations. Sure the whole thing is theoretical, but thats ok I guess?


texts: does anyone sell bicycle trailers with brakes?

texts: I recently was involved in a wreck, because I was unable to slow my trailer. I am thinking about building a refit kit to install brakes on a trailer, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel.


texts: Is it possible to add another chainring to Cannondale Trail SL 3?

texts:
I recently bought a Cannondale Trail SL 3 2021, and quickly realized that I need heavier gears for riding comfortably down hill and on flat ground.
Is it possible to add a second, larger chain ring and front derailleur to this bicycle?


texts:
I like to put 28c size tires on my Giant OCR4 2006 (which I second-hand bought recently), but these old Tektro brakes don't have this useful release switch modern brakes have. I tried loosening the fine tuning bolt marked (marked as 1 in the picture). But this doesn't open far enough for 25c+.

Is there supposed to be an easy way of releasing the brakes in case I get a puncture? The only way I can think off is taking the brake blocks out, or loosening the table tension bolt (marked as 2 in the picture).

Or is my best option just buying some new brakes if I want to run bigger tires?


texts: Folding electrical tape around the bar tape as it reaches the middle of the handlebars

texts:
So....

I saw a bike parked up at work with drop bars and bar tape that looked interesting.

As the bar tape reached the middle of the handlebars rather than wrapping electrical tape around the end to hold it down it looked like the electrical tape had been wrapped around the bar tape inside out.  It's difficult to explain but it meant that when the bar tape ended the electrical tape also ended.

Anyway i'm hoping this will make sense to someone as it would like to do the same on my bike :)


texts:
What parts do I need to put this back together?

I've lost some pieces going for a ride but I'm not sure what exactly. I think I'm missing the end cap to the crank and maybe a spacer.

I was heading out and the left crank arm came loose, around 180 degrees to where it normally would be. When I unclipped from it the whole arm came off the bike.

I've put the arm back on but it feels like the chainring & pedals are a bit loose. There's probably about 1cm of play laterally where the cranks move together so I think there might be a missing spacer.

What parts do I need & what do I need to do to get everything back together?

There are two bolts (pinch bolts?) on the crank which are still in place, but were loose.

The bike is a 2019 Giant Fastroad SL-1. I think the bottom bracket is Shimano.


texts: How to make a 10 year old electric bike battery work better?

texts:
I have taken a 10 year old electric bike out of the garage a few weeks ago after not having used it for multiple years. The bike is an elops 7 bought at decathlon with a geonaute battery. It still looks very good and the mechanical parts seem to be working flawlessly (I still plan to take it to a checkout in the upcomings weeks). However I'm having some issues with the electrical parts:

When the motor is asking for too much power (when starting or when going up a hill), the control screen and the motor both go off. They can be turned on again but it takes some time and is not a viable solution. When the power needed is low, the motor functions perfectly.
The battery seems to lose its power quite quickly, sometimes it's at 3 bars out of 5, and it just goes completeley out of power.

I would like your opinion on the diagnostic and the solution to get it in better shape(and what I've tried so far).

It seems to me that there is a problem in the battery (which makes sense because it is old), when talking to a salesman, he said it was very probable for a battery this old.

To fix that I would like to change the battery, Decathlon told me the part is not made anymore and that they can't do anything for me. I couldn't find the model on geonaute's website either. The battery is 24V and 10Ah. Upon some research, a battery of this type seems to be around 100-150 euros but wouldn't have the right connectors. Some website also propose battery reconditioning but the price is around 300 euros and it seems very expensive.

Any idea is welcome and feel free to ask for more specific details.
Edit : Added pictures of the battery  and battery connector


texts: Why might my inner tubes be getting consistently punctured?

texts:
I recently had a flat and replaced the inner tube. It pumps up just fine, but then when I leave it and come back it's completely flat. I replaced the tube twice more, with the same result each time.

The the punctures were

Just to the right of the valve on the rim-side, not a clean cut but a small hole as if the material had been stretched or twisted too far.
Roughly opposite the valve, a 6 or 7 inch gash, not straight. I couldn't tell whether this was rim-side or tyre-side.
Just to the left of the valve, rim-side, a clean hole about 5mm long.
edit: replaced rim tape, put in new inner tube. 2 minutes later I hear it go pssshhh, same result as number 3.
edit: added second new rimtape on top of first, new tube, 2 minutes, pssshhh, same result as number 4.

I'm using the process described in this video, except that I don't use a tyre lever to put the tyre back on after inserting the new tube (because I've previously made the mistake of pinching the inner tube and making a hole), instead I just use my thumbs to push the bead over the rim.

I've examined the inside of the tyre and the rim, I haven't found any aberrations (no spokes sticking through rim tape, no holes or foreign objects anywhere). Edit: chap in repair shop had a look at the tyre and confirmed it seems fine.

Could these different failures all be caused by the same thing?


texts: Can you help to tell me what this frame is


texts: Semi-integrated / external headset compatibility

texts:
Mechanics at a repair place told me that my bike needs a new headset. For the moment, I have a semi-integrated / zero-stack Cane Creek VP-A45AC. I went afterwards directly to a bike shop asking for a new headset, and they sold me an external Massi headset. I am no expert in headsets, and I don't know if 1) the shop sold me this external headset because it's interchangeable with a semi-integrated one 2) they made a mistake and I need to go back.
I didn't find much on external / semi-integrated headsets compatibility, does someone now if I can use this external one on my bike (provided the dimensions are correct, which seems to be the case) ? Thanks.


texts: Can I insert a carbon seatpost up to 20cm deep into seat tube? The seattube is carbon as well. Total length of the seatpost is 35cm. The shape of the seatpost is aero seatpost (tear drop shape). It's a Pinarello Dogma.


texts: Why rear derailer has limit on front chainring difference?

texts:
Just as an example, Shimano RD-M786-SGS (as most other RDs) specification says "Max. front difference: 22T".
Why is rear derailler limited in front max difference? It is clear that it is limited in total tooth capacity, but max front difference is stated separately. What goes wrong if it is exceeded, given that other numbers remain within their specified limits?


texts: Will a 36V 500W ebike with a 36V 17.5Ah battery go farther and faster than a 36V 250W ebike with a 36V 10Ah battery, or will I give up something by doubling that wattage?


texts: I broke my pedal today. I own a bmx. It happened when I landed from an american bunnyhop. Any tips to land softly? (I have even bent the rim.)


texts: What should I be concerned about changing out wheelsets on a Ritchey Cross bike?

texts: I've got a Ritchey steel cross bike with cantilever brakes and 28mm+ cross tires; could I run a different wheelset with like 25mm road tires?  What do I need to be concerned with (brake alignment...what else)?


texts:
Does anyone yet make an affordable quad chainring?  I would love to see a 4x12 with my staggered cog idea such that all 12 gears are shifted progressively using the 4 chainrings.  Each chainring would engage only 3 cogs.  I think the "double shifting" would be quite easy.  On the gear indicator (1 thru 12), every 3rd gear could be marked with a different color number to indicate to the rider that a "double" shift is required next.  Generally when the rider settles into a good pace on reasonably flat pavement, he/she will only be using 1 chainring and using the 3 gears for it to fine tune the cadence.  For example, if the chainrings are labelled A,B,C and D and each cog for each of those chainrings is labeled 1 thru 3, someone might be using C2 gear but shift to C1 for a slight headwind and C3 for a slight tailwind.

I think it is a good and interesting idea and would look cool too.

I played around in a spreadsheet and came up with these ratios:

20/40 = 0.5
20/33 = 0.61
20/27 = 0.74
28/31 = 0.9
28/26 = 1.09
28/21 = 1.33
36/22 = 1.64
36/18 = 2
36/15 = 2.4
44/15 = 2.93
44/13 = 3.38
44/11 = 4.00

Notice that the 15 cog repeats cuz the difference between the 36 and 44 chainrings is close enough to 20%.

Also notice the overall spread of the gears is a very wide 8 with a very low 1st gear (0.5) and a reasonably tall high gear (4.0).  That should cover almost any situation for the average rider.


texts: My rear wheel axle has broken this is second time

texts:
Hi! my bike is Trek Marlin 4. I don't know why my axle broke so easy and this happened second time.

its almost winter in my nation we don't have good bicycle shops. They will be close so soon. I can't order a new one what should I do and I want to know why this happened ? Please help me

Is it possible to weld?

I bought my bike about 4 months ago.


texts: How does the new Canyon Endurace rim version support 33mm tyres with R7000 brakes?

texts:
Canyon just popped a new version of the Endurace back in stock and I'm a bit confused. Half way down the page they claim "With 33 mm of clearance, just fit chunkier all-road rubber and you’re good to go." for gravel riding.
But the bike is fitted with Shimano's 105 callipers. To the best of my knowledge, these only support up to 28mm tyres. What am I missing here - are Canyon suggesting you must swap the brakes to put in wider tyres...? Or are they tacitly accepting that slightly chunkier tyres can fit inside the 105 callipers.


texts:
Gearing             14-Speed Shimano A070 STI
Crankset            Prowheel Ounce 42/52T Double Chainring Alloy Crankset
Shifters            Shimano A070 STI
Front Derailleur    Shimano Claris
Rear Derailleur     Shimano A070
Brakes              Tektro Dual-Pivot Caliper Brakes
Brake Levers        Shimano A070 STI

Above is what I currently have. I am looking to convert from drop bar to flat bar to use the bike as a casual fitness and commuter bike. All I know is that some parts are road bike specific and may need replacing if I want the conversion done. I hear that the front derailleur, shifters/brake levers (obviously since it currently has STI) and the bar it self. Is there anything else that needs to be changed? I would like someone who has more knowledge in bikes than me to possibly tell me what parts from the above mentioned list needs to be changed. I am not looking to do any upgrades. Just looking for cheap budget parts since it will just be a leisure bike.

Thank you all

Sincerely

Tom.


texts: Freehub movement on Reynolds hub--is this OK?

texts: The freehub on my Reynolds wheel moves a bit horizontally when off the bike.  Is there a problem with it, or is it working as designed?


texts:
I'm looking for an upgrade to my crankset and I would also like to replace bottom bracket. My current setup is Shimano M522 (3 x 10) which I would like to replace with SLX M677 (2 x 10) and current bottom bracket is First R30. Are there any compatible bottom brackets from Shimano that can fit in my bike frame (73 mm wide) and which will be compatible with SLX M677 crankset? Shimano recommends BB-MT800-PA as compatible press fit bottom bracket but according to specifications it is available in 89.5 - 93 mm.

I'm confused about options and alternatives - please help.


texts: I want to upgrade my 2020 Allez from Claris to Shimano 105

texts:
I have a 2020 Specalized Allez that came with Shimano Claris, but since I live in a very hilly area, I feel as if I need more gears. I have been biking for a while now, but I don't know if I need to train more or need more gears. The inclines that I find myself needing more gears on are over 10%. I am wondering if I can just put in a 105 rear and front derailleur, and keep my original brakes. I am also wondering if I have to get new rims to compensate for the extra 3 gears I am putting in, or if I can just put a more narrow spacer in the back.
Thanks for reading!
Edit: For those of you wondering, I have the base claris gearing system, so an 11-32 cassete in the back and 34-56 in the front. Thank you all for your help. When going up 5-12% inclines, I don't need to shift all the way down, its usually in-between 13-25% inclines that I find myself using my smallest gear. I will probably train more for the next month or two and then see if I still need to upgrade! Thanks everyone.


texts: Two brake positions on fixed gear/single speed

texts:
I recently bought a fixed gear/single speed with a flip flop hub.
It has drop bars with two brake positions. One on the hood and one set of cross top brakes.
I was considering removing the hood brakes, as having two sets looks a little silly (to me) on a fixed gear.
I don’t know if the bike was originally a conversion or if it came this way.

Would it be okay to remove the hood brakes and keep the cross bar brakes?

I do hope I worded everything appropriately! Thank you in advance for your advice.


texts: Are electric bike speed limitations set in stone?

texts: I'm thinking of getting an electric bike, and like most, it states the speed limit at 25Kph, which also happens to be the speed I typically cycle at. My question: is this speed set in stone? Is there a limiter of some kind preventing me from going faster? If there is, is this limit defeatable?


texts: Leaving lock on the parking rack - is this rude?

texts:
We have a bicycle parking rack near the office building. It's rather large: for about 30-35 bikes.

Someone has left their lock (chain or whatever) locked around one part of the rack.

So, I've got two questions:

is this rude, or it's just me thinking this way?
can I park my bike on such a place if there are no other options?


texts:
I've bought this bike new about 10 months ago. No issues until now, only the fact that my tires (tubeless) lately have constant white foam like this:

Now I have to pump up my tires every day before I ride, but the bike is still usable through the day even for long rides.

Now I know that I should take it to a shop, but I want to know what to expect there, would it be a difficult and expensive job?

Thanks!


texts: Why does my front mountain bike wheel sway left and right slightly?

texts: Went to a bicycle shop he said could be screw loose but after he tighten it still swaying to both side slightly once awhile


texts: Should thighs touch the stomach to reduce flab?

texts:
I got myself a new bike and i have been told by many to reduce the seat height or bend more to cycle such that the thighs touch your stomach or atleast closer to stomach as you cycle. They say it will reduce the flab quickly and better workout.

Is this true?


texts:
I noticed today that my the cable controlling my front derailleur is beginning to fray. Hoping to get this great group's thoughts on the situation.
It's a Shimano 105 2x11. Bike has about 150 miles on it.
Q1: Does it seem surprising that it's happening so soon? Could I be doing anything in my riding or maintenance to bring on this problem?
Q2: How close is it to failing? If I continue to ride till it fails could I cause more damage (other than a long walk home), or should I get it fixed right away?
Thanks very much for your opinions. Picture below.
UPDATE: a few people asked for additional pictures of the assembly. Adding 2 more. Thanks.


texts: Most favoriable collision with a car? How should I act before collision, supposing enough time?

texts:
Suppose a car is going to collide with you. What can you do to minimise the consequences?

By collision I mean that it may be intentional or an accident. Anyway I am looking for tips on how to act in this kind of situation where the other vehicle probably has much larger total energy than you.

Suppose someone is about to drive over you when you are riding a bike, what is the best way to avoid this happening? During work time I see people driving too many times at too high speed up to pedestrian crossings, for example. Even though I am using lights and reflector vests they do not really help with this kind of situation.


texts: Which cleats provide more adjustment freedom?

texts:
Currently I have MTB shoes and I am surprised how little freedom they provide for left-right adjustment (shift). So I wonder which cleats -- MTB vs road -- provide more adjustment freedom?

Assuming such question can be answered in general (i.e. without ton of exceptions that brand X provide more than Y).

Update there is more than one way to skin the cat -- by adjustment I meant fixing the cleat on the shoe with screws. Not the adjustment when on the bike and small movements which pedal+cleat allow.


texts: Will a Miyata 912 be able to take wider tires/bicycle racks/fenders and still handle well?

texts:
I've found a Miyata 912 going for $300 on Craigslist. From what I've read, it should be a 1970-80s road bike on the high end but supposedly built quite strongly.

I'm looking for a bike to commute to class and work so I definitely want:

wider road tires (I'm assuming that this handles bumps better than skinner road tires)
fenders (mud/sand/gravel/dirt/etc)
bicycle racks (if I want to carry more stuff)

Will the Miyata 912 be able to take that and how will those changes affect its handling? Does it make sense to use it as a commuter bike even?


texts: Can a bike frame be retrofitted with internal cable routing without Disassembly?

texts:
Would I be able to have a local framebuilder retrofit an existing steel mountain bike frame to install internally routed cable guides on the top tube without disassembling the frame? I would probably prefer to install lugged guides for this.

Why? Certainly not for performance reasons. I just like internal routing, which I have on a couple different bikes already. Less external stuff to get caught on while riding and easier to accommodate frame packs for bikepacking.


texts:
I replaced my free hub body due to pedal slippage. I also replaced rear cassette and chain for regular maintenance. Since then the problem started and I replaced shifter and cables as well as rear derailer. I am out of ideas. I know how to properly set high and low range and adjust index. Once the index is set for gears 8-4 or so, gears 3-1 shift too quick and the chain ends up in the large ring when the shifter says it’s in 3 or 2 and the last shifts to 2 or one are incredibly tough as the cable is so tight. If I loosen the cable to allow a smoother shift in gears 1-3 gears 6-8 don’t work together.

The rear cassette and chain is 8 speed, the same part number as previously installed.


texts: Is going without a helmet more aerodynamic?

texts: Is having a bare head more aerodynamic than an aero road helmet?


texts: Why is my wheel going out of true after I mount and inflate the tire?

texts:
I’m wrapping up my very first wheel build (rear wheel), and I noticed that the wheel is going out of true after I installed the tire. Before installing the tire, I had the wheel trued pretty well (within one millimeter in all directions). With the tire on, it’s now got a few millimeters of lateral runout. What could be causing this?
The rim is a 29” 28h Stans Arch MK3. The spokes and hub are generic, although I will mention that the spokes are significantly too short. I am replacing the rim, which cracked after a period of riding MTB with chronically low tire pressure (and thus many rim strikes.) The new rim is shallower than the old one, so the ERD is bigger. The tires are set up tubeless. I don’t presently have a tension meter, but I can tell you that the spoke tension is pretty even (squeeze method) and is comparable to the other three wheels I own, maybe a bit lower. I don’t want to overdo the tension, especially on a MTB which will see jumps and drops. I will borrow my friend’s meter and update the question.
Side question: why are the spokes not equally screwed into the nipples? Of course, there might be discrepancy between the drive- and non-drive sides, but on the same side, there’s a millimeter or two of difference. The wheel is true (without a tire), so why is there a difference?
Update 1: Deflating the tire brings the wheel slightly back into true. Dismounting the beads brought it most of the way back, although it is still wigglier than I remember trueing it to. It’s only lateral true that is affected; radial has been pretty much perfect the whole time.

More photos without the cassette:


texts: Parking a bike with wide tyres in a narrow bike rack

texts:
I park my bike at work in a rack like this:

At the moment I have 26 x 1.9" knobbly tyres and the wheel just squeaks into the rack. However I'd like to replace these with 26 x 2" Schwalbe Marathons for a smoother ride and better puncture resistance, and these almost certainly won't fit.

What's the best way of putting my bike in this rack if the tyres won't fit, preferably without annoying colleagues by taking up more than one space? So far I've thought of:

using the lock cable to 'tie' the wheel to the side of the rack - possible but a bit of a faff
fitting the bike with a kick stand so it doesn't need the rack to hold it upright - not ideal
getting the 26 x 1.75" tyres instead - would work but I'd prefer the wider ones for best grip as my ride is partly on offroad paths and a cobbled street (and nothing to do with thinking the wider ones look better, honest).

But are there any other techniques or products I haven't thought of?

(Security of this type of rack is not a big concern, incidentally, as the rack is inside a shed with a code lock.)


texts: Could someone please identify this bike and tell me the cost/price?

texts: I found this bike in a junkyard, perfectly functional and looking like it hadn't been used in awhile. I brought it home and cleaned it up a little; I googled everywhere online but I can't find this exact bike and I'd also like to know the price.


texts:
Is there a simple way to clear excess wax from between the links of freshly dipped chains?

When I pull my chain out there's a pretty decent coating I can wipe off. The interior stays full of wax even after a good wipe off.

I'm using 100% paraffin and removing the chain when the wax cools enough to form the beginning of a skin on the surface of the pot.

I've tried making an S-bend and running the chain up and down, brushing the chain with a short-bristled brush. The only thing I've found that works is manually clearing each link with small enough a blunt tool.

Is there something I could run the chain through quickly and get the wax between the links out without spreading it everywhere? Putting it on the bike and backpedalling makes a bit of a mess.


texts: Bracket axle for Shimano RD-2300 rear derailleur

texts: Where can I find a bracket axle for Shimano RD-2300 rear derailleur? I searched everywhere and I didn't find one. I need to mention that the frame type is Speed Fitness Alloy and bike is a Focus Arriba (2011).


texts:
I was just wondering if the Rd rx810 is compatible with a 1x 42t and 11-40 set up? I've seen it's meant just for 2x but wondered if that was just shimano being shimano.
Thanks!


texts: Are taller carbon fork expander plugs available?

texts:
I recently cut my carbon fork steerer and it is a few mms too short for my desired spacer arrangement. If it was a little bit higher, then I could move a spacer from above the stem to below the stem.

My expander plug sits 1mm above the top of the steerer column. It occurred to me that if it were a few mms higher then I would be able to add another spacer.

Are there slightly taller expanders available?


texts: KMC X9 chain: can I replace some links from any chain?

texts:
I've got some broken links in my KMC X9 chain. Is it possible to replace them with links from any 9 speed chain? Or do I need to replace the whole chain? Also, in that case can I just use any 9 speed chain?

The cassette is Shimano 9 speed but the chain is KMC x9 and I cant figure out which one of the KMC x9 it is. For example here it says they have like a few of them.

http://www.kmcchain.eu/chain-mtb-multispeed-9_speed

Thanks a lot


texts:
I am now in training for cycling. Long time didn't got into bike. I am using a 21 gear mountain bike with highest gear, and around 70 - 80rpm. What's surprise me is my average speed only 12km/h(recorded from strava) and 14km/h(recorded from mapmyride).

I was wondering whether i am using the wrong gear? I thought that the higher with the same rpm will move faster than a lower gear with same rpm.

12km/h is much slower than my expectation. I expect 70rpm would be 20km/h or more.


texts: What is ideal for long distance road bike rides 23mm or 25mm tires?

texts: I keep reading that the drop line for 25mm tires is greater. Obviously the 25mm tires have more volume. Do they have fewer pinch flats? Are they more comfortable, because they create less vibration? What about wet conditions? Why should I give up a 23mm tire?


texts: What are these washers that came with my front wheel quick release?

texts: I just bought my first bike in probably a decade (Schwinn Discover hybrid bike). There is a quick release for the front wheel. The skewer had a nut, lever, 2 springs, and these 2 washers on it. The instructions explain all the other parts, but don't mention the washers. Any idea what I should do with them?


texts: My Araya GP-710 rims have a sticker that says 'safety dot' with arrows that point to little dimples in the rim -what are they for ? Dimple not visible in pic, but are on the rim


texts: Freehub has started slipping, what can I do?

texts: I've just gone through the london winter and both my bikes now have a slipping freehub. Admittedly my mountain bikes' freehub is quite old and probably worn out, but I'm wondering if they are seized up inside and I can apply some lubrication to stop it from slipping? Anyone got any good advice?


texts: Is it still possible to purchase solid white rubber tyres? I need some for a Raleigh Tiger child's tricycle I am renovating the size in the side wall states 12 x 7/8 there is 300mm also on the side wall.


texts: Can you have an Ultegra crank arm on the one side and a 105 crank arm on the other side

texts: I have an Ultegra groupset, but I also have a 105 left crank that has a power meter. Can you mix these two? I don't care about the weight difference, only talking about a geometry point of view. My left shoe and right shoe's cleats are in exactly the same position, but my left side shoe (at the contact point of cleat and shoe) is against the crank arm?


texts: Where to buy 2005 Shimano 105/Ultegra brifter hoods?

texts:
I have a 2005 Trek 1500 WSD road bike with original Shimano 105 STI brake/shifter levers.  I'm looking for replacement hoods for the brifters because the originals are wearing out.

I believe the groupset model number is ST-5510.  I also believe that ST-5500, ST-6500, and ST-6510 hoods should all be compatible (55xx = 105, 65xx = Ultegra, xx10 = Flight Deck).

Can anyone point me to a source to buy a pair of hoods for these levers?  I've searched and searched and come up empty handed.


texts: When to tune/replace brake cables for optimum tension

texts:
Original Question

What physical symptoms do I need to look for to understand that my brake is out of tuning or the cables have reached end of life?

It is not necessary to consider the brake shoes in this question as I already have a previous question on bicycles SE covering that.

MY USAGE
I ride everyday for work and fun. I cover about 20 miles on average every week but would be doing a lot more than that.

MY REASONS FOR THIS QUESTION

I have been tuning my front and rear brakes by either releasing the nuts near the handle or just adjusting the cable near the brake (i.e. where the noodle is). It seems that they are running out quicker than I though (i.e. running out of tuning). I really don't know what to do anymore. I know that a really bad way to do this is just replace the brake cables, but I just almost bought the bike (November 2012). I think there are better ways of tuning and managing the brake performance. I have attached some pictures for the users to see what I am talking about.

The posts that I found on Bicycles SE and youtube are not really helping me for this. My brakes run out of tuning a bit faster than I thought. If I am doing something wrong, a slap on the wrist will be appreciated!

TIA

UPDATE SINCE @DANIELRHICKS POSTED HIS ANSWER

I have replaced my brakes whilst you folks were reading this and resulted into the followings now. Could anyone tell me if it seems wrong? Also, I am not sure if angle of my V arm of the brake is correct. Do I need to fix that too?

WHAT I HAVE DONE TO FIX THE TENSION ISSUE

Once the brake pads are replaced. I opened up the nut to the maximum i.e. created the highest tension point.
Adjusted the cable attatchment (i.e. the attatchment of the cable with the allen-key joint near the noodle).
Slowly closed the nut inside (i.e. loosen the cable tension) so that the necessary gap between the pad and rim can be achieved, also the cable attatchment near the noodle is appropriate.


texts:
I have a cracked tyre on my Road bike. I think I put it in the gazebo and exposed it to the sun.

It's cracking along the tyre wall, in continuous fashion.

Would it be safe to ride on those crack tyre? As they are fairly new, I don't want buy a new one if it is ok to ride, i.e. no catastrophic failure.


texts:
I recently took my bike in for a service and the mechanic urged me to replace my chain, potentially at great cost (might need a new wheel). He said it might jam or pop off. He couldn't explain to me why my safety might be threatened but repeatedly asserted that it would be threatened.

So, why exactly is an old stretched chain a safety issue? How exactly might I be more likely to crash because of this?


texts: Possible to use Cane Creek angleset cups on top and bottom of headset

texts: I currently have a -1.5 degree angleset cup installed on the bottom of my bikes headset and a 0 degree on the top. I would like the head tube angle a little slacker so am wondering if it is possible to use a -1.5 degree cup on the top as well which would give -3 degrees of HTA. Am. I dont think there would be an issue but wondering if im missing something.


texts: Front derailleur won't spring back to lower gears

texts:
The front derailleur on my mountainbike sometimes gets stuck in high gears. When this happens and I want to shift down I can nudge it a bit with my foot and it will spring back to the lower gear.

I think the spring is still strong enough because just a small nudge is enough. I haven't been fiddling with the two adjuster screws, and -as I said- if I nudge the derailleur after shifting it jumps to the correct position. The issue seems to be the (admittedly pretty large) amount of gunk that has gotten stuck in the derailleur over the years. I tried applying some WD-40 to the moving parts but two small applications have not really helped remove the gunk. Is this still the way to go or is there a better way to get the gunk out without completely removing the derailleur (which I -for now- am too lazy to do).

This question deals with a similar problem, but it hasn't moved beyond the diagnosis part (which I have already done I think).

[update:]

I tried liberally applying WD-40 a few times over the course of a week, including some (aided by hand on the derailleur) shifting after each application. This mostly removed the issue when shifting from 3 to 2, but 2 to 1 remained. Today I went to my local car-cleaning station and applied a high-pressure hose to the derailleur. This removed all the visible gunk. I applied some oil,  now shifting is as smooth as can be given the state of my chain and chainrings.


texts: What are early signs of failure in forks/stem/handlebars?

texts:
I ride an SE Lager. In the past year, the following components have worn out or broken

Front chainring
Rear cog
Rear freewheel
Chain
Seat (one of the bars snapped off)
Many, many spokes
Wheels

Basically, it seems to be a very cheap bike made to a minimum standard. I like the feel of the bike and with my replacements for the above components I'm pretty happy with the way it rides.

The thing that scares me is that the forks, stem or bars will break and pitch me face first into the road.

How can I tell if these components are also weak or try to detect early signs of failure?

Update: Added wheels as replaced parts


texts: 2 wheeled trailer - wheel position/weight distribution

texts:
Two wheeled trailers usually have the wheels in the middle as far as I know. I understand this minimizes additional weight on the back wheel of the towing bike. But wouldn't moving the wheels back on the trailer and thus moving weight onto the rear wheel of the towing bike make braking easier and the trailer more stable?

Some trailers would be too heavy, so let's keep this to trailers and loads of up to 60kg.

So: What are the reasons for this position of the wheels?


texts: Why Do I Need a Better/Lighter Road Bicycle to Train For 'Fitness'?

texts:
I'm about to purchase a bicycle in the very near future and have been shopping around at different bike shops to see what I like and what they offer.

My primary goal here is to commute to work.  It's a 6 mile / 9.5 km ride (each way).  It's all paved road, mostly bike lanes, for the duration of the trip.  And that's what I tell the sales people.

Twice now, I've been asked if I intended to use my bicycle for 'fitness'.  And when I say, 'Well, sure, maybe it'd be nice to do that too...' the salesman points me away from the bigger 'commuter' bicycles and towards the smaller road bicycles (one said a road 'cruiser' would be best, the other just suggested a 'road' bicycle).

I didn't think anything of it until I was at home - but now it's bothering me.  How does having a lighter, more efficient bicycle, that promotes a more aerodynamic position ENCOURAGE fitness?  Isn't that the exact opposite?

Surely for any given course/distance the cyclist with the heavier, less efficient, bicycle would be working harder.  I'm not a cyclist, but I do know if you go to the gym and use a stationary bicycle the more resistance you have the harder the workout.

What am I missing?  Would you not get a much better workout on a heavy bike with an extra 70 pounds and sitting in an upright position....than on a top-of-the-line road bicycle?

Or is it just a reason to get me into a higher price-range?


texts: High pressure water cleaning and chain lube

texts: After mountain biking in muddy conditions I clean my mountain bike with a high pressure water blaster. I'm assuming that after this I should re-lube my chain?


texts: At what time of year can I buy a bicycle for the best price?

texts: Is there a month when new models come out and dealers discount stock like with cars?  Do they raise prices in the spring and lower them in the winter?


texts: converting a nine speed hybrid disc to a seven speed drop bar, is it possible?

texts:
I have a used Jamis Coda Elite that I'd love to convert to a drop bar bike, but on the cheap.  I also have an older drop bar mountain bike that already has the 7 speed brifters on it.

Can I just swap out the rear cassette on the Jamis for the cassette on the MTB?  Will the rim on the older MTB have room for the disc swap?

The front tires would stay the same; just new cable to the brake for the brifters. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Will a bicycle trailer damage my (steel) bicycle?

texts:
I have a rhode gear trailer with a 100 lb capacity, similar to the burley and other brands, that attaches to the left chainstay (see image of hitch below). I currently have it attached to my heavy-duty commuter, and I am not concerned with any adverse effects that it might have. However, I am having so much fun with it that I would also like to attach it to my road bike, which has a steel frame built for racing.

I accept that this can affect the paint, but I don't want to cause structural damage (e.g. bend or break) the frame. Should I be concerned?

Thanks!


texts: Is there such a thing as a cyclist philosophy?

texts:
I've done a fair bit of cycle touring, I've been a regular mountain biker and now I cycle regularly in the city. I would definitely say that cycling shapes my life and the way I think.

Is there such a thing as a philosophy of life that unites cyclists and are there any books, writers, or well known cyclists who talk about such a thing? Does cycling make people think differently?


texts: Why should you not just buy the chain with more links?

texts:
I have the choice of buying a 114 or a 116 link chain for the same price.

Why would I not buy the longer one and shorten it?

In my case my bike previously had 108 links, and assuming that was correct, 114 should be sufficient, but given it may need shortened, is it not worth buying the longer chain just in case?


texts: How to mount central (two-legged) kickstand on normal bike frame

texts:
I bought this kickstand, but it has grooves in the top that the instructions said should slot into the "stand plate" on the frame.

My frame looks like this: doesn't seem to have a plate of any kind, and the chainstays don’t fit into the grooves on the kickstand.

So is this kickstand a weird one that needs some kind of plate, or are all centre kickstands like this?   If so, how do I fit one to my frame - can I buy a separate base plate?  This was the only thing I could find like that..


texts: Diagnosing faulty circuit in vintage incandescent headlamp

texts:
I've got a steel-framed bike with incandescent lights, probably from the '70s. Unfortunately, despite all my efforts to get it working, the headlamp refuses to work.

History

About six months ago, the thing worked for a bit, even with its ancient, yellowed wires and bottle dynamo from a different era, but then suddenly stopped.
About a month ago, I replaced the ancient incandescent bulb with a new one and cleaned the whole thing inside and cleaned the ancient bottle dynamo but that didn't make a difference.
This weekend, I replaced the wiring for both the front and back with new double wiring†.

With the new wiring, the bottle dynamo is easily powering the old taillamp, so it seems that it's neither the old dynamo nor the new wiring which is the culprit.

In the photo you can see the way the thing works. When I screw on the top, I bend the metal connector plate forward a bit in order to be more sure that it actually does connect to the bulb.

What might be going on here? — I doubt it could be any kind of short due to the fact that the cabling is brand-new and that the dynamo lights up the taillamp just fine (it even lights up with only a slight turn of the pedals, so it seems to be generating a good amount of current).

Tools

The only electrics-specific tools I've got is one of those screwdrivers which has an LED which lights up if the head detects a current. However, I'm not exactly enthusiastic to buy even more stuff for this endeavour because I've already wasted such a large amount of time and money...

† The old wiring was a single, ungrounded wire and I actually don't know what to do with the new ground wire because there's no obvious attachment point for it, so the new wiring is still basically a single cable.


texts: Would a quality derailleur improve a cheap bike

texts: I bought my son a cheap mountain bike last week, it did 2 miles before the chain mashed up the drailleur. is it worth replacing with a better quality component. im a novice , but handy enough to upgrade. he loves the look of the bike but my question is , is it worth the effort..


texts: Route planners with route avoidance features

texts:
Already asked on https://webapps.stackexchange.com/questions/141455/route-planners-with-route-avoidance-features but may be here is a most adequate place to make the question.

In my quest to search route planners, I didn't find yet one which has the following two features:

Avoid a specific point/street. Go from X to Y avoiding passing in Z. As is possible in some to add waypoints, it should also be possible to add nowaypoints via user interaction.
Avoid streets with incline superior to X%, where X is input by the user via a text box. It is particularly useful for cycling, to avoid steep inclines going up, and dangerous descents going down.

Does anyone now about some web page which has such features? Tired of searching, didn't find anything.
Thanks.


texts: How many miles to repack bearings or replace on recumbent

texts: I have a Sun EZ-1 Super Cruzer recumbent.  It is the low end bike.  It is beginning to be harder to pedal.  Got at least 5,000 miles on it and never bearings have never been repacked or replaced.  Wondering if it time.  Also where can I get parts?  Normally Sun only works through dealers.


texts: I need help with identification.  I really like the style of the bike, but can't find any information about it.   Does anyone know ?


texts: Power to weight, FTP and Terrain Profile

texts:
If two riders of different build

rider 1 - shorter, lighter, thinner
rider 2 - taller, heavier, stockier

Are riding a rolling terrain. No notable climbs. A few short climbs lasting no more than a couple of minutes maximum - but otherwise a flat to undulating terrain.

Both riders having the exact same power-to-weight.
And apply their power in equal measure ie. same.

rider 1 - 60kg - 270 watts 4.5watts/kg FTP
rider 2 - 80kg - 360 watts 4.5watts/kg FTP

Is rider 2 actually faster than rider 1?
(because he is applying his 360watts on flattish terrain)


texts: Cons of using an infrequent use long range e-bike battery trailer using SLAs

texts:
So I've recently purchased an ebike and started thinking about how I could go long distances without charging.

It occurred to me that whilst sealed lead acid batteries can't go through many cycles, for the odd long distance (~100 miles) some deep cycle ones could be perfect, especially if mounted within a trailer.

I have a 48v e-bike, so I'd need 4 SLAs in series. I'd probably only use this a few times a year so other than the discharge from using them they'ed always be topped off with charge.

Can anyone see any potential disadvantages of doing this? Perhaps SLA's are just too heavy and I wouldn't get the range I want?


texts: Sram cranksets, are there differences other than weights betwen models?

texts:
I'm trying out different crank arm length 165/170
Are there differences between sx/nx/gx cranksets other than weights?
(I'm wondering if I should pick one of sx/nx/gx and differentiate arm length only..)


texts: Is it ok to use fixed gear threads for a freewheel?

texts: I have a fixed/fixed flip-flop hub and the lockring threads are stripped out on one side. Would I be ok to just thread a single-speed freewheel on that side and use it as a fixed/free hub?


texts:
I have a Claud Butler MTB which is fitted with QHD-6 Tork hydraulic brakes.
Whilst these have worked really well for a number of years, recently the rear brakes stuck on whilst I was out.

I have now bought new pads to replace and hopefully solve the problem but I don't know how to take out the the old pads and replace them. Any help please.


texts: Single-speed vs Multi-speed bike purchase

texts:
I am looking at buying my first bike as an adult.  I grew up in a neighborhood that was very hilly, so am used to getting bikes with gears to be able to do hills more easily.  I now live somewhere comparatively flat (long shallow hills; E.g. 0.5 mile at a few degree incline, <5 degrees), but am very out of shape.

Question:  What are the real things I need to consider to decide

1) Whether I need a multi-speed bike at all

2) How many speed bike I need?

For completeness & context
I am about 6' and 160 lbs but not in shape at all.  I currently walk or bus pretty much everywhere.  I'm looking to use the bike mostly for getting to/from work, not necessarily to get in shape.   My ride to work can be 0.5-3 miles, depending on if I decide to ride to transit or bike the whole way.


texts:
I have a bike with an SRAM X01 rear mech, and SRAM Guide Hydraulic disk brakes.

The bike has flat bars, but I'd like to swap them for a Salsa Woodchipper, which means swapping the shifters and brake handles.

Does anyone know if one can use an SRAM Apex shifter to control an X01 rear mech and Guide disks?

Thanks!


texts: How to fix handlebars that have virtually turned into a seesaw

texts: I have a Roadmaster Granite Peak Women's Bike. It was really cheap, but I'm not sure if this issue has to do with the quality of the bike or how it was put together. The issue is the handlebar has loosened and is like a seesaw because it slid out of the piece that holds it in place, the part in the red circle. However, they are not loose enough to just slide right back into place. How would I fix this? Thanks in advance]1


texts: Do I need a new chain after 1300 miles (2100 km)?

texts:
I have a Boardman Airpro and probably need a new chain having done about 1,300 miles (2100 km) with it.

The bike is used for leisure and commuting and therefore goes through all weathers. I also keep the chain pretty clean and well-oiled.

Do I need a new chain? There are so many different types. Which chains will work?


texts:
I have a cross bike with two back ortliebs,

a 6 liter top tube bag
https://www.rei.com/product/877045/revelate-designs-tangle-bike-frame-bag-large

 Frame bag (the long one below toptube)

and a front pouch
https://www.rei.com/product/117049/revelate-designs-egress-pocket-handlebar-bag

 Front pouch

Do you think I'm better off putting heavy things like tools in the top tube bag/front pouch, and putting light stuff in the ortliebs or vice versa, or a mix of both?   I want to optmize for good handling.  In the past when I have just gone with the ortliebs it works ok but I would love to spread the load out.


texts:
I have the black mounted lock you see below, and would like to buy a U/D lock or folding lock, so the bike can't be moved. I would prefer a 12mm wire where one end goes into the mounted lock, but many videos suggest that they can be cut.

There are lots of videos on YouTube, where they use a grinder to saw over the locks, but I am not so concerned about these types of attacks.

Below have I found an U/D lock, which I have no idea if this particular model is good compared to an Abus or Kryptonite of similar weight, but I like that it also functions as a luggage carrier.

Question

How concerned should I be about the leverage attacks, as this U/D lock is fairly long?

Which strengths and weaknesses does U/D and folding locks have compared to each other?


texts: Broken Sturmey-Archer dual cable 5-speed shifter

texts: I have this Sturmey-Archer shifter which controls a hub with 5 speeds with cables on both sides of the hub. These 5 speed with 2 cable shifters are very hard to find and my shifter broke as the picture shows. Because only the brace of the shifter broke I was wondering if I can buy just that part or what would be the best way to still use this shifter.


texts: Carerra Hellcat - Front Derailleur issues - Possibly replace

texts:
I am new here and to cycling as an adult (last time I rode I was a teenager some 30 years ago).
I have bought a second hand Hellcat and am having issues with the front derailleur (FD). It sort of works now (won't go into the detail) but having read a few posts it is clear what the issue is - incompatibility.
The bike uses SRAM gear changing equipment however the FD is Shimano (Tourney). I have looked high and low for a SRAM x4 FD but with no luck so the next step would be to potentially buy a different setup for the changer and FD. It is a 3x8 bike so would need something to suit. Also, what parts do I buy as I have zero knowledge of what to get (as I believe some FD's are suited to road bikes only). It doesnt need to be pro-spec, I am simply riding for health rather than competition.
Any help is really appreciated.
Thanks


texts: front wheel takes more impact than rear?

texts:
I was commuting to work this morning and was following a bus, suddenly I saw a huge crack, no time to steering around so just run over it. Then I felt my bike not steering properly. Pulled over and had a check I found the front tyre was complete flat. That must be from the impact because a puncture should take longer to flat a tyre. The inner tube may have exploded (haven't checked). Never MTB before so wondering is front of a bicycle takes more impact than rear? Is that why MTB has longer travel in the front?

Thanks everyone for the inputs. I have checked the front tube, there is 2-3 mm slit, so definitely from an explosion. That means the front tyre hit the crack, then deformed too much at the impact. Looking at vehicles in crashes (front ), they all have badly deformed front, rear is relatively intact. If front doesn't deform, then the force will go through all vehicle and cause even more damage to the driver. I think it's similar here.


texts:
Not sure if I'm using the right terminology here. Last night I changed the chain on my cheap road bike (2008 Specialized Allez Triple), and then took it for a quick test drive but the chain was skipping under any load at all. Figured the cassette is well done as well.

The problem is it's very hard to find a 12-26T where I am for some reason, but there are stores with 11-26T in stock. Would this cause big issues? Anything I should check for before I buy and install?

Also, I am sure I've seen people do this, but right now everything is Shimano, but the only cassette's I can get are SRAM, shouldn't be an issue correct?


texts: How do I tighten this 10s Shimano splined freehub? 2008 Cannondale CAAD9 R5 - WH-R550

texts:
The rear wheel on my Cannondale has been having freehub play for some time now. I've tried using an hex key to tighten the freehub, but to no avail. The wheel is a WH-R550 rear wheel.
The 11mm hex key I've tried is too big. The 10mm hex key doesn't catch. I had tried a 10mm hex key on another freehub (from a Giant OCR) and it had worked, but it seems like the splines on this Shimano wheel are preventing the hex key from catching.
Could somebody tell me how I could tighten this? I brought the wheel to a bike shop, Roy's Cycles in Brooklyn, but the mechanics there didn't seem like they knew what they were doing and told me to get a new wheel.


texts: Cycling shorts: comfort vs bacteria / fungus?

texts:
I picked up endurance cycling a few years ago (30 - 100 km rides), and bought a few pairs of padded lycra shorts because that's just the thing to do. I wash them after every ride -- at least soap in the shower, if not a proper machine load -- but I'm finding that I still get a flare-up of jock itch after every ride that takes a day or two to clear with medication.

Over the past week I've been trying the experiment of riding without the padded lycra; just normal shorts, and have had no jock itch whatsoever. I'm also pleasantly surprised that I don't really notice a comfort difference with pad vs no-pad; I guess my sit bones have hardened up :)

Questions:

Is this normal / expected?
Is there something else I should be doing pre-ride to reduce jock itch?
What is the point of padded lycra, and is it worth putting up with infections?
Should I just throw out my lycra and wear simple running shorts instead?


texts:
I have a Trek 620 (Reynolds 531 lugged steel frame) from the mid-80s the rear dropouts are spaced at 126 mm. I'd like to be able to run an 8- or 9-speed cassette and I was wondering about the issues involved with running a modern road hub with 130 mm spacing without adjusting the frame spacing.

It seems to me that the rear triangle would have the ability to flex 4 mm without needing to be cold set – at the expense of a small misalignment of the dropouts.

Are there problems with doing this? Other than the slight hassle when installing the rear wheel?

Would it impact the value of the frame – the bike is a rider, probably not a candidate for a restoration (frame could use repainting and I'm not sure the components are original, the wheels definitely are not)?


texts: Installing modern Deraileurs in an Old type mountain bike Frame

texts:
Found my old mountainbike(steelframe) and i saw that its Rear Deraileur was worn out, was wondering would i be able to install a modern deraileur on a bike frame like this? I'd also like to ask if deraileur hangers shown in the picture with be compatible for this frame? Pls i badly need some advise about this as i want to restore this old bike

Also! Can all deraileurs be fitted to ANY bike hangers or frames? (Do they all have standard bolt size and holes)


texts: Detailed resources for planning backcountry/primitive tours?

texts:
Are there any resources out there with details for specific backcountry/primitive tours, such as water sources, itineraries, camping spots, route difficulty, etc?

I'm a hiker/camper who just bought an "offroad touring" bike a few months ago, and I've been dying to take it out on a long-term trail ride. Problem is, so many of the trails that I find don't allow bikes at all. The ones that do are frequently very short and catered to technical mountain biking.

I've found a couple sparse sources, but not much. Most sources for tour info seem to cater to supported road tours, or road tours in general. This is the best example of what I'm looking for, but I get the feeling that there are many more options out there than this site lists. I notice that the entire Ozark trail is missing, for example.


texts:
We all know that SPD shoes can be worn off the bike (that is why they were designed), however there are not many SPD shoes that you would want to wear off-bike. There are even fewer (if any) SPD shoes that look presentable in a smart workplace. As for getting into one of those nightclubs with a strict 'your name's not down' door policy, as things stand, no SPD shoe would get you past the bouncers.

If you do know of any SPD shoes that look like normal 'interview grade' work-shoes please tell.

If you have looked for such a shoe and not found anything remotely appropriate, what would be in your dream specification? A gore-tex liner? Reflective heel tab? Carbon-fibre reinforced toe-box?

I am also interested in SPD shoes that you can and do wear to work and at work, particularly if they look completely different to the 'Shimano Golfing Shoe'(TM) / 'Bling innit' efforts foisted on the cycling public.

I know some people do not see any point whatsoever in a SPD shoe that you can wear all day or as part of a mixed transportation journey (e.g. cycle to the train station, catch the train and/or tube...) - it is different strokes/different folks. Some of us want to ride like the Dutch do - everywhere and all the time - but with some decent SPD pedals and sensible footwear.


texts:
I need to build a new bicycle (others are gone, stolen :( ). Good thing is, I have two spare wheels of decent quality in my basement.

These old wheels took quite a beating though, when I was younger. No truing, many jumps and crazy stuff. I even remember my front wheel popping out of the fork during a jump. The landing was bad for the wheel, trust me. The quick release skewers are bent, and probably scratched (or worse) the inside of the hub when I removed them.

Now I'd like to reuse these good old wheels (both front and rear). But before that, I want to make sure they're still safe to use. The wheels are old anyway, so I figured I'd take the hubs apart to lubricate them.

So, three questions:

can I take my (front + rear) hubs apart while it is still attached to the spokes?
is it good enough to visually inspect the hub axle, and decide whether it's safe to use based on that?
any other safety concern?


texts: Is it possible to replace bearings in Shimano XT bottom bracket cups?

texts:
Curious if I can just replace the bearings in my existing cups or if I would need to buy new cups?

If possible to replace them then what are possible high quality replacement bearings?


texts: Can anyone identify this frame possible brand Sergio?

texts: I bought a road bike frame with no manufacturers name and a barely visible sticker which I think says Nova, it has Sergio stamped on the seat stays where it meets the seat tube. The rear dropouts are campagnolo brev and it has cable guides welded to the top of the bottom bracket. There are no cable guides or mounts for shifters. Anyone any ideas?! Also got a box of parts with it, there's half a Shimano golden arrow groupset with it, and some old suntour derailleurs.  enter image description here


texts: How do I determine the correct position for my bicycle seat?

texts:
I have been suffering from IT band problems on my outer knee, which I'm pretty sure were caused by raising my seat height too much. I raised the seat on the advice of a friend who said that a higher seat gives more power in each stroke.

By trial and error over several months I have found a (lower) seat height that seems to be acceptable, but I still get occasional twinges if I cycle a lot, so I suspect it's still not quite right.

Is there a well-understood way to correctly determine the best height for a bicycle seat? Are there factors other than seat height that are important to consider?


texts: What are the advantages of angling your saddle down?

texts: I have seen a few people do this where their saddle was angled down a bit. Why would someone do that?


texts: First time buying parts ( derailleur, chain, rear axel, shifters) need help!

texts:
I have a 21 speed (3 front, 7 rear) NEXT bicycle ( model number 8568-49, year 2007.12.06) sitting in my back yard at the moment a few missing parts and I was hoping to get some help on what to get and whats compatible with what because my knowledge of bicycles is limited. Ok so here it is...

Bent rear axle 3/8 thread 165mm... I found it hard to find a 165mm would a 170 or 175mm be alright?

Missing rear derailleur... I no model number to go off of here so I was thinking a Shimano Tourney SIS TY22? The cassette is a 7 speed Shimano MF-T207 and the front derailleur is a Shimano FD TY18.

The twist shifters are bad I noticed they were SRAM so here I though... SRAM MRX Twist Shifters? Will they work with what I have and what I'm proposing in terms of derailleurs?

And finally chain, here I have no clue... something that wont snap as soon as I start to peddle.

I'm looking to complete my bike and hope to enjoy in soon, I'm very open to suggesting and thank you for any help.


texts: Saddle or frame shape for painful Coccyx?

texts: As a child I was very active, and in a weight-lifting injury I damaged my Coccyx, making it very difficult to sit in the same position for long periods of time. As such, bicycling, what once was a staple joy in my life, has become painful. Is there a seat or frame design that takes pressure off the tail bone so that I can ride pain-free once again?


texts:
When I removed the Shimano 5800 cassette from the Hope 4 Pro hub I noticed that there is a significant axial play of the freehub body. Also I am able to slightly twist the driveside spacer from side to side. The hub have seen 3000 km. The QR was loose when I was removing the wheel. I replaced the cassette, mounted the wheel and tightened the QR properly.

The freehub body play disappeared and the hub seems to roll well, there are no unusual sounds when I ride the bike. But I plan the 3000+ km trip with approx. 15 kg of additional load and I want to know whether I can rely on this hub. I don't know its internals. Is there anything inside that can break after further equal amount of wear and stop me in the middle of nowhere?

Edit:
I found the exploded view of the hub

What may cause the play of the freehub body? Maybe I closed QRs too tight and the axial load damaged the bearings?


texts:
I have never ridden a road bicycle, so this question is probably silly (and a duplicate). Still:

Assumptions:

Road bike
Riding fast, 30km/h nominal
Few and gradual corners
No abrupt stops (i.e. no traffic lights)

In the face of those assumptions, why are road cyclists concerned about the bicycle mass at all? The large inertia of a heavy bike should be no problem and should even be providing stability and comfort. The only conceivable drawback would be higher friction in the bearings, which should be negligible.


texts:
I have just purchased an old tandem, but don't know the make or year.
Can anyone help me to identify it.
The frame is steel and it has a frame number of 452599.
There are no decals fitted but I attach a photo of the front tube casting where a decal was probably fitted to indicate the make.
The wheels/rims are 26" x 1.3/8" and the rear has a Dunlop Motorette tyre fitted (still holding air).
The front handlebar has "Il Primo Milano" on it.
The hubs/brakes are Sturmey Archer (Front has a number 10 5 6 on it)
There are four sprockets on the back hub.
The derailleur is a Benelux Super 60
The seats are marked Iscaselle.
From what I have been able to look up on the derailleur, it suggests it could be 1950's or 1960's but that is all I have found.
Many Thanks![Frame Number
!Frame

!Derailleur![Tandem 2
]3


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I enjoy buying used gear and building up bikes, but often wonder why some used/older components are only a fraction cheaper on sites such as eBay. For example, Shimano Ultegra 6600 10 speed shifters are currently going for anywhere around $100 - $150 USD when you could buy Tiagra 4700 for around the same price, which will most likely outperform the older series.

Do older bike component really hold value well or are older components expensive because of their, 'vintage' factor?


texts: Combining flat bar and aerobar: Double stem setup or alternatives?

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I'm currently running a pair of clip-on aerobars (Syntace C2) on my long distance touring bike. I've set the aerobars up quite high, as for me they are not so much about the aero-part (though it still helps when battling strong headwinds), but mostly about giving my wrists some rest and a change of posture. So far, I really like them.

However, I feel like I could benefit from a bit more reach when riding on the flat bar, so I'm thinking about changing out the stem for a slightly longer one with a bit less rise. This is where the trouble starts, since that would bring the aero's way to far away from the saddle. In fact, they could already benefit from a slightly shorter stem.

Thus it seems like a double stem setup (such as some TD racers use) would solve this problem. 1 short stem up high for the aero's, and 1 long stem for the flats. However, the part of the steerer which sticks out is only 68mm.

Any suggestions for stems with a very low stack height (< 35mm) would be appreciated.
Would it be safe to run a double stem setup with conventional stems (with stack height of, say, 40mm). The lower stem would grab the steerer tube full-on, but the upper stem would stick out for 10mm or more.
Something like this (link) would help a lot, but they seem to be out of production. Does anyone know of an alternative?
Perhaps someone has a different suggestion?


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I  am converting my 52x42 12 speed to 1x11 speed.

I am wanting to put a 46t chainring on the crank.

My question is will the 11speed chain run on this chainring which is 3/32" thick.


texts: Im trying to identify a bike with the serial numbers ACL8L35099 can someone help me ive been trying like crazy

texts: I am trying to identify a chrome bike similar to a dyno orroyce union


texts: What kind of master link is most convenient for IGH / fixie / ss setups?

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Here's a question related to this and this -- I've got a IGH bike and want to keep the drivetrain clean.  I prefer to remove the chain for regular maintenance, but don't want to have to remove the rear wheel from the vertical dropouts to get this done.  I put a SRAM Power Link in, but even with about 0.5-inches of vertical play in the chain, there's not enough slack to "unbuckle" it (no chain tensioner present, either).

On non-derailer bikes, is it best to use a chain tool every time, dial in enough chain slack to use a "buckle style" link (SRAM Power Link / Wipperman Connex / KMC Missing Link), or use a retaining clip type of link (KMC Master Link)?


texts: Are Shimano R440 road flat bar shifters compatible with a mountain bike front derailleur?

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The Shimano shifter flat bar series have the same cable pull length than the mountain bike shifters.

Is this series compatible with a mountain bike front derailleur, Deore, for example?


texts: Acera rear derailleur / freewheel compatibility

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I'm looking at buying an e-bike conversion kit with a rear geared hub motor that requires a freewheel.

On my current bicycle, I've an 8 sprocket cassette (Shimano HG CS-HG41-8an) and my rear derailleur is Acera (RD-M340).

Will this be compatible with a Shimano 8 sprocket freewheel?

How do I go about determining if these are compatible? Is there any compatibility info online?


texts: Material to make patches to fix Crosso / Ortlieb style waterproof panniers?

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I've got some panniers to fix. I've bought some impact adhesive and I am working out which material to buy for the patches - will PVC ok ? or polyurethane or something else?
Has to be waterproof and strong and preferable available in yellow!


texts: Have rim brakes on my two month old road bike , and they are starting to howl when used. Cleaned the tires and rims but that didn't solve the problem


texts: Can storing bicycles upside-down damage hydraulic brakes?

texts: I usually store our bikes for the winter hanging upside down by the wheels from the rafters. I would assume that I can't do this with a hydraulic disc brake bike: am I correct?