texts:
Often when I go to school on my bicycle the left crank arm starts to loosen up after one or two really gentle jumps. When this happens I just tighten it with the tool I have in my backpack. It went on like this for almost two weeks after which after only one kilometer of riding it starts to creak very loudly and it also loosens up.

When I go to the repair shop, the worker just tightens it up and says it will work but after only one minute of riding it, it loosens up again. Please tell me how to fix this problem.

It is a square taper crankset where the crank is held on by a nut.


texts: How to setup triple front derailleur with a double crankset

texts:
I want to use my front derailleur which is a tiagra on a 3x10 speed setup with a compact double crankset making it a 2x10 setup.

What is the proper procedure for setting up the triple chainring front derailleur as a 2x10 setup compared to setting up a standard double chainring setup? Will I be able to use limit screws to set limits properly for top and bottom ranges?


texts:
I have several vintage NOS chain rings with part numbers. Is there a way to look them up to see what the specs are? Example:
I have 4 rings with 24T, 68BCD:

two of them have part# 17L24000 stamped 1G L-24
two of them have part# 4-1C424000 stamped M9 P-24.

Do these differ somehow?


texts: Is my Shimano Deore SLX dérailleur a medium or long cage?

texts:
I have a Scott E-Genius 730 Plus and would like to replace the rear dérailleur (the probable cause of difficulties described in my last question). It's a Shimano Deore SLX Dyna-sys unit, it's for a 10-speed cassette, and has a code RD-M7000 stamped into a metal part of the body. The drive system does not have a front dérailleur.

I have found a Shimano Deore M6000 Shadow+ 10 Speed Rear Mech, which I assume would fit. It asks me whether I want a medium or long cage, and I don't know.

I was hoping I could find a Bill Of Materials ("BOM") for my bike, perhaps by looking it up on the Scott website by its frame number, or scouring through the supplied CD-ROM and manuals. None of these have provided much information, other than basic brand information that I already know. I have also looked at the Shimano website, but this does not seem to provide measurements (e.g. see this product).

The cassette is 11t to 36t, so based on this answer I have these calculations:

Maximum Chainring Difference = 0 (there's only one chainring)
Maximum Cassette Cog Difference = 25
Total Drivetrain Capacity = 25
Maximum Cassette Cog = 36

Based on the Total Drivetrain Capacity, that would point to me being able to use either Medium or Long (my Maximum Cassette Cog exceeds the 34 limitation, but that answer is nine years old, and some comments indicate that 36 is pretty normal).

Of course Medium might be good in relation to ground clearance, but I might be tempted to go for Long if that's what I have already. What cage size do I have, and is there physical measurement data available that I could have used to answer this question for myself?


texts: How to avoid turning the spokes while tuning the wheel

texts: When I tried to practice tuning my wheels, I found my spokes turn with the nipples. I tried to drop some lubricant on on the nipples, but I had the bike for two years now and there are a lot of dust clog in it. So the lubricant doesn't help too much. What can I do in this situation?


texts: How to correctly align "to see" bicycle lights?

texts:
My "to see" bicycle light shifts out of position.  While I need to fix it (fork bridge mounted dynamo), how do I determine when it is correctly aligned?

In particular how are "to see" lights correctly aligned so they don't blind on-coming traffic?

This question is primarily about how to adjust beam position for courtesy and safety, rather than the mechanics of mounting any particular light.

related question: How to correctly align "be seen" lights


texts:
Now the (seatpost and QR) has been practically replaced by an (internally routed riser setpost) tightened with a torque wrench.

I disagree with the accepted answer here - sometimes above 1 liter of water accumulates. And stays there for a month.

But the old advice of "remove the seat, leave bike upside down overnight" is not practical anymore. Now what?


texts:
Suppose I saved my training on Endomondo (android)  with autopause option disabled. I have my training stored and I can view it on the endomondo.com site.

But I want to "simulate" autopause i.e. I need to obtain the same (similar) statistics as when autopause is enabled. Is it possible?
Maybe I need to use "special" editing this track (maybe with other software? - what software?).


texts: Is this brake cable alignment correct or problematic?

texts:
I have a BB7 disc brake to fit to a CAAD10. Am I fitting this wrong or have I bought the wrong thing?

It doesn't look like the brake cable lines up with the rubber bit - like this:

I have not yet run the cables but it looks like they would need to bend considerably as they are supposed to come out of that hole in the frame.

I can post a pic of a different angle later, but how much bend on a brake cable is okay?

Will this be a problem? Am I fitting it wrong? Thanks.


texts: Replacement bottom bracket for Shimano XT FC-M785 crankset

texts:
I ride a BMC FS-02 mountain bike which came with a Shimano XT group, including a FC-M785 XT Crankset (2X10).  The bottom bracket is apparently included in that and mine is showing some signs of wear.

I'm new to the press-fit bottom bracket and am trying to figure out what a good replacement is and what exact dimensions, if any, I need to be aware of.


texts:
Yesterday when I was biking my mountain bike on level paved path, I would pedal but get no power to the wheel.  To use a car analogy, it was as if I had the clutch in and was apply gas.  It seemed to happen most often after I coasted and then went back to pedalling.  I would pedal and realize that no power was going to the wheel.  The chain was definitely on the sprockets and moving. I could change gears no problem while I had no power.  Sometimes stopping the bike and starting again would work, or just trying again.  Needless to say, I'm taking it in as I'm not mechanically inclined, but I'm hoping to learn something.  Perhaps a link to a site that explains the problem?

So my questions.

What is going on?  I have heard of something called the "freehub".  I really don't know how bikes work though, so I'm hoping for an explanation of how one can pedal and give power to the wheel and then stop pedalling and the wheel just keeps moving (without the pedals moving).
If you are on a ride, is there any emergency adjustment to make?

For what it's worth, it's an old bike.  Circa 1993 Performance Mtn Bike.  So it's not too surprising that it's falling apart.  I haven't used it a whole lot, and have tried to wash and oil it, but I probably haven't taken the care that a biking aficionado would.  Also, besides losing power after coasting, one time I was pedaling and suddenly the pedals weren't powering the wheel.  I almost went over the handlebars!  So, I definitely want to get it fixed.  I'd just like to know a little bit about what is going on.

Thanks,

Dave.

Bonus question:  If there is enough info to make a diagnosis and you have ideas on costs to fix, perhaps you could comment on whether it's worth fixing.  Like I said, it's circa 1993 and cost about $450 then.  No shocks or anything.  Just 21 speed Mtn. Bike.


texts:
Lately I have been looking on new bikes, and I have seen some design on an aluminum frame which left me quite dubious:

That bend seems to scream "I am gonna buckle at the first hard hit!".

Are my worries just the fruit of a "conservative mind", or indeed such design value coolness over safety/durability?


texts: Help Identifying this Tandem? Sun Tourer

texts:
I recently purchased a tandem bike frame on a whim, and am having some trouble identify the bike and manufacturer. If anyone is able to help with this, even help identifying the manufacturer would be great. I'm not sure if this is the same 'Sun Cycles Co' from Birmingham, UK, as the logo appears more modern.
Thanks.


texts: 11-42T cassette of State All-Road to Shimano Deore XT 11-46T?

texts: Can I replace the current 11-42T cassette of my State Bicycle 4130 All-Road with the Shimano Deore XT 11-46T? How is the compatibility? Do I need to replace other components as well, in order to make this possible? Thanks in advance!


texts: 15T Freewheel Which Works on Flip Flop Hub

texts:
I am building a Single Speed Freewheel and I read somewhere that manufactures don't make 15T freewheels that fit on a Flip Flop hub; only 16t and bigger. However, I would like a gain ratio above 3 and I already purchased a 48T chain ring.

Is it true that you can't buy 15T Freewheel that will work on a regular non BMX wheel?


texts: Would appreciate any help in trying to identify this bicycle. HRSBO 71091


texts:
i got one floor pump with a so called "smart valve". it came with no instructions whatsoever. and I'm not smart enough to use it...

I tried it on both type of tire valves, and no matter what i do, it never press the internal valve mechanism to allow air in.

it is similar to this one:

How should i use it? do i have to turn something on the tip to adapt to either type of valve?


texts: Measuring stem clamp / handlebar diameter

texts:
I have a new-ish Bianchi Cortina hybrid that I'm trying to find suitable drop bars for, but I can't figure out the proper size to get. It seems like the bars mostly come in 25.4mm, 26mm and 31.8mm. But do you get this size from the bars, or from the stem clamp?

When I measure the bars on the outside of the clamp, it looks to be about 25.4. When I measure the space in the clamp itself it seems closer to 31.8. When I measure the bars directly under the clamp (where it fattens up a bit) it seems somewhere in between. Help?


texts: Park Tool TS-2 Truing Stand Upright Adjustment Knob

texts: I just bought a used TS-2 truing stand that was in storage for years. Used one time, according to the previous owner. I cannot get the Upright Adjustment Knob to move the uprights in or out. The black plastic handle has a lock nut to lock it onto the shaft but when the handle is locked in place I can't move it clockwise at all and when I try to move it counter-clockwise it loosens the handle from the locknut and the handle unscrews. Any tips on how to work this? Thank you in advance.


texts:
I was given an old racer frame and some parts which I am converting into a single speed commuter.

The front right fork has a small toothed mounting point, it looks a bit like it could have held a light or similar in a past life.

Can anyone shed some light pardon the pun on what exactly this mount point is and what it was used for.

Also are there any potential modern day applications for this mount point, does anyone sell any LEDs or adapters that make use of this interesting little feature.


texts: Linseed oil application to the inside of a steel frame

texts: Is the application of linseed oil to the inside of a steel frame still recognized as a good way to prevent the formation of rust on the inside of the frame?


texts: I've got a rear hub Shimano 5353 with a freewheel,I want to change the wheel for the one with campganolo hub,I dont know whether my freewheel will suit campganolo hub


texts:
I'm building a rear wheel for the first time. I have purchased the rim and hub and am now sourcing the spokes. I put the measurements into an online spoke calculator (on wheelpro.co.uk) and it estimated 295mm and 293mm for the right and left side respectively.

Now I can find 295mm spokes but, so far, I haven't been able to find a 293. I will keep looking, but I have two questions:

1)  How precise do the spoke lengths need to be. If they are out by a millimetre is it likely to cause a significant problem?

2) If they are out by 1-2mms, is it better if they are too long or too short. So if it turns out to be impossible to get a 293mm, would a 294mm or a 292mm be a better alternative.

Many thanks in advance.

Chris


texts:
I'm looking at purchasing a new bike with a 52/36 crankset on a 11-32 cassette. I've grown accustomed to a 50/34 crankset on the same cassete, and for the type of riding I do in the PNW (300-400ft hills regularly, 3000ft+ mountains monthly), I don't think I want to give up that lowest gear. It's not that I always rely on the lowest gear, it's just that want the option for days where I want to take it easy. I've been riding around on my current bike where I avoid using the lowest gear to simulate the 52/36 crankset and I've found that after a long day of riding I really like the option of spinning up a steeper hill.

So, I know I can swap out the crankset but will I have to swap out more than that? The 52/36 crankset is really the only thing keeping me from purchasing this new bike over something else that comes with a 50/34 crankset.

For the complete specs, this Canyon is what I'm currently considering.


texts: Is the 'shark wheel' a good idea for a bicycle?

texts:
I recently found a product that is a redesign of the common wheel.  It's branded as the 'shark wheel'.  It's basically a wheel where the rim is circular but bends like a sine wave.  Simple idea but very interesting.

Currently, the company only has skateboard wheels in production.  However, I recently saw the owners give a presentation where they demoed larger wheels for strollers, wagons, etc.  I can't help but wonder how long until someone rigs something like this onto a bicycle hub and rides it.

The stated benefits are that the wheel has, or can have, a thin tire with low rolling resistance but it grips like a fatter tire because of the way in which it travels over the ground, constantly changing velocity.

Below is a picture of one of the wheels.  My question is can this design be applied to a bicycle wheel, and, if so, would it be more performant is certain cases, e.g. off road?


texts: A kickstand has killed my touring bike. Am I wrong?

texts:
While I was cycletouring in the Nederlands last year I had someone in a bike shop install a new kickstand, longer, stronger and more effective than the previous one. He didn't put anything at all between frame and kickstand and must have tightened it very hard! The previous kickstand, also one legged, had been installed by myself, with some rubber between chainstay and kickstand and - I am sure of this - no ill effects. The bike is a good (Dawes Supergalaxy, possibly Reynolds 631), but old (year 2000) touring machine with thousands of loaded miles.
I am now doing my winter maintenance and have removed the kickstand to find the chainstay crushed, see pictures. Underneath, the crush is obvious (looks worse in the picture) and there is even a tiny hole. The above section is literally paint damage.

Am I right to think this the end of this bike? I happen to be building another touring bike at the moment but I was still planning to use this old friend for local trips and commuting. I guess now even this is not a good idea?
Any advice welcome.


texts: Is it possible to compensate a short sized frame by adjusting seatpost and stem?

texts: Could you achieve the same position you would have on a bigger frame by raising seatpost and stem? And how could I adjust those to "simulate" a bigger sized frame?


texts: Changing a crankset on a Specialized sirrus step through

texts:
I have an issue with pedals to crankset connection on a 1 month old Specialized Sirrus Step Through. Probably connection was done wrongly and they are just falling out of the connection holes. Looks like inside one of these connector holes is totally worn out (no thread left). Also I cannot find only crank levers for this set. So I guess I have 2 options buy the same (which so far I cannot find with short delivery) or make a forced change to something.

Currently installed is Shimano Tourney TY501 (3x8; 48-38-28T, square BB)

I am thinking about Shimano Tourney A070 (3x7/8; 50-39-30T, square BB)

It looks like the closest analogue available, but will it fit without any other changes taking into account the teeth difference (obvious area of concern is front deraullier and chain, both so far I cannot find exact model used for this bike)...

Would appreciate any input or comment. Thanks a lot!


texts: How can I make better use of the dead space under my bottle cages?

texts:
There's an annoying/useful bit of space under each of the bottle holders on all of my bikes; I currently strap a spare tube there (which keeps the right tube on the right bike). The tube is in a bag but the bag tends to snag and rip, and dirt/grit gets in. It also doesn't look very nice.  I should be able to make much better use of this space, to hold more than just a tube, and hold it better

I don't believe there's a product on the market, so I think I'd like to repurpose/make something.  It should be secure against falling off, and keep the dirt and the worst of the water out.

I've found this winter that on long rides (200km+, essentially unsupported but with occasional food stops) the bike is fully loaded. I don't really  want to fit the rack/panniers (weight and drag) when I'm already pushing myself quite hard, and can't add a handlebar bag because of my lights.

I've already got a top-tube bag (snacks/gels, backup battery for phone/lights), saddlebag (first aid kit, foil blanket, more snacks/gels, spare tube, jacket and shoe covers strapped underneath if not on me), 2 water bottles, tool case in 3rd bottle cage, jersey pockets full (2nd breakfast/litter, money/cards, any extra warm layers)


texts:
I've bought an old racing bike with Shimano PD 1056 pedals installed and I am in need to buy cleats compatible with these. G****e search for "PD 1056 cleats" reveal SHIMANO SM-SH11 SPD-SL cleats, but I could not find the pedals in any compatibility list für these cleats.

Are these both compatible or is there a better suggestion?

Here are some photos of the pedals:


texts: I have a 6 speed freewheel with a chain which says HG on it. Can I use a 7/8 speed quick link on my chain?


texts: Which bike light, aren't that to be seen kind enought?

texts:
I just bought a giant escape 2 and have been using it to go to work. When is time to come back home is already dark and I'm planning to get a light. Asked about one in nearby bike shop and they suggested me the following (https://www.qoo10.sg/item/GENUINE-GIANT-ZOOM-LIGHT-BICYCLE-LIGHT-HEADLIGHT-LIGHT-TORCH/531628737):

Comparing it to the models from Giant website https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/lights it seems to be on the cheap side.
I also noticed they classify lights as "to be seen" (cheap, i.e. hl100, hl200) and "to see" (expensive, i.e. hl500).
So which one would you advise me to get? If hl100 is not enough perhaps hl200 is ok, or I better go with the hl500? In principle my intent is to use the light to see.


texts:
I live in a fairly urban setting and there are plenty of cars around when it gets past dark. The main point of having a bicycle light/backlight (I contend) is not for you to see, its for others to see you. Besides just using lights, there are plenty of other reflective Doohickeys that purport to make you visible at night. (see this thread for an example)

In practice this works just fine in relatively suburban or lightly trafficked areas. Where an extra light on the road does stand out and people notice a bike rider. However, I live in a fairly urban area, and down-town is saturated with light that a dincky bike light will not stand out in the crowd.

I've experienced this both from the POV of a driver and of a cyclist. Just today I was driving downtown and almost hit a biker with the notorious right hook. Luckily we didn't make any contact, but afterwards I recognized why I didn't notice him even though he was wearing a reflective vest and had a decently bright light. His light made him blend in more with the backdrop of downtown. The oversaturated lighting of downtown desensitized me to certain visual cues that usually would tip me off to the presence of a biker or a car (i.e. their glaring lights in my mirrors). If I was driving down a darkish residential street I would have noticed him right away.

So what are some good tips on biking at night in urbanized areas, where there are more than just a few cars out after dusk. More specifically, what can you do (that you normally wouldn't do during the day) and besides making yourself brighter that would make your night ride safer?


texts: Help with choosing an entry level mountain bike

texts: Me and my wife are looking to start cycling in the nearby nature. We aren't expert biker cyclers but are in reasonable shape (we're in our 20s). We're looking for two entry level bikes, each up to the price of 350 USD. The nearby nature includes mostly 4X4 paths, sometime narrower but in general in such a paved manner. Could anyone recommend good bicycles in this price range that will fit our requirements?


texts: What is the cheapest option to fetch a person over a long-distance with bicycles?

texts:
I need to fetch an outsider from about 20km far away and I want to use my bicycles. I have used roller skaters with a bicycle to fetch my friend, I let my friend to use the bike while I will stuck to the back at the destination -- it is very cool and convenient (light weight) when you know your friend but doing it with unknown outsider is not be the best option because it requires trust between the participants. My next best option is to use my foldable bike stuck to my back-bag and my diamond-framed bike but the foldable bike weighs about 10 kg. I have been considering a number of options such as tandem, an unicycle and side-cargo thing but many options tend to be expensive. I don't want to use rack based sitting approach because it would damage the rack.

How do you fetch your friends or outsiders over long distances when you need to carry the transportation equipments to one-direction alone and then allow the friend/outsider to use the equipments to move to the other direction with you?

If you are suggesting a thing such as tandem that may be too expensive, let me know whether you could hack your standard bike such as diamond framed bike to a tandem so that I could get it cheaper.


texts:
I'm new and just found this site and look forward to being able to contribute where appropriate.

I am a stroke survivor and trying to do my best to stay in shape despite my limitations.
I want to return to cycling, but only have the use of one hand, so a conventional bike is not an option.

Recumbent bikes are of interest to me.
I recently purchased one and had it modified to allow operation with only the one hand that works.

All seemed fine until I tried to start riding once again. Even though both my legs work somewhat normally, there is some remaining weakness I have to deal with.  Due to this weakness I've had a very hard time getting started on the bike. My balance is not what it used to be,so getting both feet onto the pedals to get started is turning into a big issue for me.  If I have help by someone holding the bike steady while getting started, I have no issues after that and enjoy the exercise greatly.

This is not practical since I may not always have help getting started each time.
So, if was suggested that training wheels might be what I need.  Has anyone ever heard of  or seen training wheels on a full size bike used by an adult?  Or does anyone see any reason why training wheels would not work for me?

fyi, I have located heavy duty training wheels on Amazon, but before I order them, I thought I'd ask if there might be issues I've overlooked.

Any help will be appreciated!
Thanks to all in advance!


texts:
I've recently purchased a - 2nd hand - downhill bike which runs an 8 speed drive-train. Some components could do with an upgrade - specifically the shifter which is damaged. I have all of the necessary 9 speed components on a different bike which I'm happy to swap, the only problem is that I'm not sure if they will be compatible with the 8 speed sprocket / outer-ring?

It also seems difficult to track down decent, new 8 speed mountain bike components for further upgrades. Do I have to replace the sprocket / outer-ring?

Thanks in advance!


texts: I bought a 21-speed bike. The rear gear at 1st position puts the chain at 2nd toothed-wheel. Likewise 6th position puts at 7th wheel. When at 7th position, it goes out of the assembly. This problem started after a few rides. Can anybody help me out?


texts: I got it as a sort of hand me down a couple of years ago.  I think that it is from the late 90s or early 2000s.  It is definitely a mountain bike and it is red and silver/gray.  It is hard to pick out any defining characteristics because the seat and shocks are aftermarket and there are stickers all over the frame...any ideas?


texts: Replacement cassette for Schwinn Jaguar 7-speed?

texts:
How would I figure out the correct replacement for a 7-speed Schwinn Jaguar cassette?

I'm newer to working on bikes (but lots of automotive experience).

Got this bike inexpensively. Chain keeps coming off. I gave the chainwheel a little adjustment with the hammer, looked like some of the teeth were out of alignment. Replacing the chain. The cassette looks pretty chewed up as well.

I see some $18 7-speed Shimano cassettes online. How would I know if I was getting the right one?


texts:
Also known as a snakebite or pinch cut, a pinch flat is a common term among the bicycling community for a certain type of puncture — but what exactly defines one?

What causes pinch flats? What helps avoid them, and why? Diagrams would be very helpful.


texts: Why does a 28 1/3 tyre fit, when a 27 1/4 tyre is too big?

texts:
I've just bought these rims off eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercian-built-Wolber-rims-Shimano-hubs-vintage-27-inch-good-condition-/270921291817?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item3f142ad829#ht_500wt_1401

I've fitted a 27 1/4 tyre to the front, no problem.

But the rear only accepts a 28in Tyre, and the 27 is too big...

Why is this? And what size would this make the rim?

Many thanks

From what I've gathered here: http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3802

It would appear that some 28 tyres fit onto rims with smaller diameters.

Now, that raises a new question, why would Mercian sell a pair of wheels with different size rims? - Or wouldn't they?


texts: Can't find a "friction screw" for a friction shifting system

texts:
I recently broke one of the two speed levers ajuster (friction screw) that adjust the pressure between the levers and the cable. It's made in plastic as shown in the picture below. I would like to know if someone know the real name of this part and if I can find it somewhere. I have looked on internet but cannot find anything.

Otherwise, maybe someone could have an idea of a part that could replace this one. It's sitting around (and in the back) of a 8 size hexagonal head.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

enter image description here


texts:
I recently acquired a steel fork, but the paint is very damaged and I would like to polish it and have it silver colour.

What is a good system to have it nice as the one they sell, which look so bright?

Thanks


texts:
I have a Suntours xcm (spring 80mm) on my hard tail.
I drive more frequent and more pretentious. So I consider to upgrade my fork.
How can I tell if I need a better one? What can a good air-suspension  better than my current?

And what would be a good replacement?

edit:

conclusion

less weight
more adjustments
higher responsiveness


texts:
I have a single speed bike (Genesis Day One ~2013) with mechanical disc brakes.

I would like to upgrade to hydraulic disc brakes.

Do hydraulic road brake levers exist that do not include shifters or dropper post buttons?

Shimano & SRAM levers appear to all be designed to work with their geared groupsets. Magura don't appear to do road bike brakes.


texts: I am willing to switch from 700x23c to 700x28c (front) and 700x25c (rear)

texts:
I've just bought Orbea Onix TDI Road Bike that has 700x23c tires. They are very tough on the roads that I have around - I go to mountain highways and there's a lot of pavement cracks that feel too bad for me with the tires that I currently have. Plus, my bike is 8yrs old (in perfect condition though, barely used) and the tires are 7-8 years old, too.
I'm looking to put:
- for rear tire, Vittoria Randonneur II City Tire - BLACK, 700 x 25
- for the front tire, Continental Ride Tour City/Trekking Bicycle Tire, 700x28
The reason I have to go with smaller on a rear is because 28mm won't fit there. I'd love to go 28mm on both.
My question, is this configuration will be ok for my road conditions.
P.S. I've been cycling for about 2 years and had a hybrid Trek bike, that I use now only for flat roads along the beach


texts:
I have an old Battaglin road bike from 1997 that I want to convert to a single speed. My issue is; what conversion kit to buy? The rear hub spline (not sure this is the correct term) has a 4x4 millimeter. I bought a kit on ebay, turns out it doesn't fit and I am guessing it's because the campagnolo free hub uses different dimensions.

here is the item I bought on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Speed-Conversion-and-Cogs-16T-and-18T-8-9-and-10-Speed-Freehub-Body-SS-/251897565819?nma=true&si=3cfysRTM4ElBxkenIFNdiTV97UE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


texts: Finding compatible thinner street tires for Giant ATX

texts:
I am trying to get a pair of thinner road tires for my Giant ATX (Disc). I have tried to look up resources to see what tires would be compatible with the bike but could not find anything.

Can someone suggest what road tires would be compatible. I have a 26 inch model. I am new to biking so have very little idea.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Is it possible to use road-style brifters with an internal gear hub?

texts:
I have a touring bike with road-style Shimano brifters, which I love. I'm also very intrigued by internal-gear hubs, but these hubs seem to focus on rotary or push-button shifters.

Is it possible to run an internal-gear hub, especially one of the 11-, 12-, or 14-speed ones, with road-style brifters? And if so, what parts would be needed?


texts: Adjusting TRP RG957 deep drop rim brakes

texts:
I've got a lovely new bike for my daily commute, a Condor Italia. I've done about 1,500 km on it and I need to adjust the brakes. I would expect to just turn this bit:

But that will not turn, and it even lifts up and drops back down. It's clearly attached to a threaded barrel, so I don't understand why it won't turn, not why it can just lift, given that it is threaded.

How should I be adjusting these brakes?

I may resort to undoing the nut/screw securing the brake cable, pull a bit of cable through, and then tighten the securing screw, but there must be a simpler way to take up the slack from brake pads wearing and cables stretching.


texts: Will I need a new derailleur when changing to a higher ranged cassette?

texts:
I want to upgrade my bike cassette.

Currently I'm using  single chainring 53T with 7 speed cassette 14-28T. I'm dying when riding hilly a road.

Thinking of upgrade the cassette to Hyperglide 12-32T 7speed. Should I change the derailleur as well?


texts: Can I use a 1x10 wide range cassette with Shimano SL-BS79 bar end shifters?

texts:
I'm putting together a drop bar hybrid conversion for a gravel bike and want to run a 1x10 drivetrain. So far the only shifting component I have is a pair of Shimano Dura-Ace sl-bs79 10 speed bar end shifters. I'm planning to just use the rear one, obviously.

Before I go ahead and buy a RD and cassette, I though I would check for any compatibility issues. I guess that the shifters are intended to work with road RDs, whereas I guess that I'll be wanting a MTB RD to deal with whatever wide range cassette I end up getting.

Any suggestions?

Edit: Although I'm committed to the idea of 1x10 with bar end shifters, I'm not particularly wedded to these particular shifters - they just happen to be the ones that I have in the parts bin. So if what I'm proposing is going to be a big ordeal, please say!


texts: How to / is it possible to straighten a bent seatstay/chainstay on a steel frame? At home or inexpensively by a professional

texts:
I have a Genesis Croix de Fer 20 (725 Chromoly) and crashed with my friend on his bike. On one side the back of the frame bent out so the wheel drops out, it is bent but not crumpled.

I would like to know about the options for fixing it either myself or by a pro without costing too much (I think I could get a new frameset for £350). I am based in Denmark

any help much appreciated I have attached a picture of the fram.

e


texts:
In general, ball bearings are applicable in higher speeds because of the smaller contact area and smaller friction force, but roller bearings can carry greater loads because the load applied to the contact area produces smaller contact stresses.
   -- Principles of Mechanical Engineering Design, Liubomir Dimitrov

In bicycle applications there are neither high speeds nor high loads (compared to cars or industrial machines). However, I would assume that the "smaller contact stresses" would result in significantly longer service life of the bearing, even if water and contaminants penetrate the bearing. And still the only time I have heard of bicycle roller(pin) bearings is in the hyped Lefty.

Why are ball bearings used exlusively in bikes e.g. in the headset where some minor friction would not be a problem?


texts: Disable index shifting to create friction shifting possible?

texts: I have a 6 speed freewheel on a Diamondback. I tried to replace some busted shifters with an 8 speed indexing shifter that was on clearance. It appears that each shift's spacing of the shifters is going to be a little smaller than that of the gears.( It takes about 7 shifts to cover the 6 gears ) Can I turn off the indexing in the shifters so that they work as a friction shifter? If not, I will have to check out recycled cycles for and old 6 speed set. Should have done that first. Don't know if 6 speed shifters are even made/sold new anymore. Thanks


texts:
Picture is worth a thousand words, so I'll skip right to it.

Here's a closeup view:

Wheel is about 3 months old, has under 500 miles on it.


texts:
I'm trying to troubleshoot a new rear shifter that my bike store installed. The new shifter is a Shimano EF65, 9 speed. The bike is a 2016 Trek Allant 7.4D. I don't know what the derailleur is off hand and the bike is back at the shop at the moment, it's definitely a shimano 9 speed.

The 1st time I picked the bike up after having the new shifter installed there were about 3 bands across the entire range where shifting up OR down did nothing in terms of which cog the chain was on, they were more or less dead spots.

The 2nd time I picked it up after having it adjusted I had to shift down 2x then up once to get it to go down one gear: shifting down one time did basically nothing. Sometimes I thought it'd be in gear and then there'd be a massive *crunch* while on full power as it slipped down into the gear I'd actually selected. This nearly threw me once or twice.

The 3rd time I picked it up the downshifting problems were limited more to the upper gears (i think). 7 -> 6 would take about 200m of pedalling before the chain would eventually clunk over so I still have to downshift twice then up once to make sure I'm properly in gear.

Before I dropped it off it was shifting fine except for the 10 minutes before the original shifter failed. For a moment it randomly wouldn't shift down every now & then, then it wouldn't shift down at all - there was 100% play, like the down shift lever was just gliding with no resistance. I tried to limp it to the store but about 10 minutes after getting stuck in top gear the bottom of the shifter fell off onto the road and the inner workings spilled everywhere.
Apart from that... it was running like a Swiss watch. It's been given a thorough service less than 3 months ago.

I think everyone's a bit confused at the moment. Are all shimano shifters for the same speed compatible? Is there a chance my derailleur could have worn along with the shifter so they'd be compatible with each other but not with a new drop-in replacement? What else could really have gone wrong? The hub's been inspected to see if the gears are indexing properly and apparently that's not the problem. I'm scratching my head a bit at the moment trying to figure out what could be wrong. We've spent about a month working on it so far and we haven't had much success getting it back to the way it was working before the original shifter failed.

Update as of 15th May:

The mechanic tried a spare derailleur. He installed new Alivio cassette. He replaced the inner core of the shifter cable with a SRAM core, as he mentioned it looked as though the old core was snagging. He replaced the shifters with another set of Alivios.

Every single time I've picked the bike up from the shop the guys have told me it's been tested and is running fine. I don't doubt that they're telling the truth. I had one good ride to the shops taking about 45 minutes with panniers on and didn't experience the problem that one time. I usually ride for 1 to 1.5 hrs and every other ride, apart from that one good trip, I have experienced the problems a few times during the ride. This may be completely coincidental but I think I noticed the problems more frequently in the cold.

I'm wondering if the crunch / free spinning / lack of resistance on the crank sensation could be the freewheel, and the slow shift times might be a separate problem? The crunching seems to be set off most often when I shift from 7-8 but it also happens on bumps & spontaneously a bit.

Last time I rode the bike I had time to start my helmet camera once the gear had already stuck, and recorded and additional 30 seconds of me shifting up & down without the derailleur engaging the lower gear.

              Hopefully you can see from the video which gear is stuck at the time, or any other detail that might be relevant.

Thanks in advance for your help!


texts: I'm 59 years old, 6'6" with 36" inseam, I presently have a carbon Teschner road bike. looking for at either a gravel bike or hybrid bike I have not decided yet, but my main concern is getting the correct size.


texts: Nerve pain and "handedness"—is it common for your dominant hand to be more susceptible to nerve problems?

texts:
Since moving to the Southwest I've greatly ramped up my cycling. I used to do ~16 miles a day, now I do double that or better, nearly every day of the week. Usually by around 15-20 miles I get nerve problems in my right hand. My left is pretty much unaffected, even if I do 50 miles or more.

Note: my right hand is my dominant hand.

I ride with a club, and whenever I see riders shaking their hands to relieve the tingling, it's almost always their right hand. Lately I've been asking people I see doing this if they're right- or left-handed. Right-hand shakers have all been right-hand dominant.

Does anyone know if my straw poll has been tested more scientifically? And, if so, has anyone proposed an explanation for why the dominant hand should incur more problems than the off hand?


texts:
I want to know to permanently fix back view mirrors. Last night, somebody stole them.
Please tell me any solution.


texts:
Folding tyres are easier to mount and store. They are also a gram lighter.
Why are non-folding tyres still manufactured?
Why folding and non-folding tyres of the same model differ in price more than a few cents, which I think the price difference between 2 meters of kevlar cord and 2 meters of steel wire would be?


texts: Can Shimano Rear Derailleur Lever Be Fixed?

texts:
I have the old style gear lever - simple metal stick thing? Use a screwdriver to tighten up the screw on the outside to change the 'tightness' of the lever.

Trouble is it always comes loose again.

Can this be fixed or I need another type of lever?


texts: New wheel. Does it need that little rubber lining between it and the tube?

texts:
I recently replaced my rear wheel (hooray for figuring out how to remove the cassette). Now I am about to put the old tube in the new wheel. I noticed the new wheel doesn't have any rubber lining to protect the tube from the metal as my old, now broken, wheel did.

Is this an important barrier?


texts: Uneven inner tube when inflated inside the tyre

texts:
I have bought a new inner tube that, when I inflate it inside the tyre, it stands out in the part of the valve. In the beginning I didn't realize but riding the bike it felt OK with a small bump periodically every meter or so.
I took it off to inspect it and you can see that in the area of the valve it stands out of the tyre. See picture below.

I am used to change inner tubes and this has never happened before. It is the same size as the usual specialized although this are cheaper. Is there anything that I may be doing wrong or should I return them?

PS: Other cases where the inner tube is not even although inflating it outside the tyre here and here.


texts:
I recently got a 2018 Felt VR30. I've been riding for a long time, but this is the first bike I've ever had with a carbon fork, and only the second I've had with a threadless headset.

The problem I'm having is that the stem keeps creeping up the steerer tube; this pulls the plug up as well. Every few days I need to tighten everything up, and tonight I noticed that the headset's upper cartridge bearing is loose in its race.

I am concerned about over-torquing the clamp bolts, but I'm doing it anyhow, because 5 nm just doesn't seem very tight. I've applied some carbon paste to the steerer, which seems to help a little, but it hasn't solved the problem. The stem (from Ritchey--not stock) has visible loctite on its bolts, but maybe they need more? It occurred to me that it might have a different stack height than the stock stem, and I've played around with headset spacers, but that doesn't seem to make a difference.


texts: Can I run Campagnolo 10 speed chainrings on 11 speed crank arms?

texts:
I  have been using a Campagnolo Chorus 10 speed compact for a while. Recently  the thread insert for the pedals came out with my pedal while riding.   Just before this happened I had ordered new compact chainrings.
Can I take an 11 speed  crankset with 110 bolt pattern and put on the chainrings from the 10 speed  crankset and run it efficiently with my existing 10 speed?

I m trying to find a solution because I can't find replacement  crank arms for the 10 speed and I really want to stay with compact gearing.


texts: Which mapping/route planning source should I trust for elevation

texts:
I'm planning a few routes, and while I've generally used Google maps and cyclestreets, the former makes exporting to GPX a pain (there are third party tools, but once you've customised a route they sometime refuse to work, and Google doesn't pass on the customisation properly) and the latter doesn't allow custimsed routes (though its 3 options are generally good).

After hunting for another tool I tried Strava's route builder planning tool (I don't feel any need to log my rides online so don't use Strava for anything else). This apparently uses openstreetmap data.

Now when I put the same loop into Strava and Google I get a difference in elevation gain, and not a small one: 522m from Google and 774m from Strava which is 48% more.  The distance is within rounding error (Google: 68.5km; Strava 67.7).  At 10% or even 20% I wouldn't be too worried but that's a big difference.

So which one should I trust?


texts: So I’m cleaning my bearings and the cups and I’ve just realised one of them looks like it’s been bent inward. Is it supposed to look like this or has something happened?


texts: Please help identify this vintage SKIP bike. Thanks

texts:
I have a friend who has this bike and he is having trouble finding any information on this bicycle.
I'm not trying to sell anything I’m more interested in the history of this machine.


texts: Repairing a bent bike frame, is it worth it?

texts:
I have a bike with an incredibly bent frame. The bike itself I have tried to replace with other inexpensive bixes, but this one just had a certain geometry that I keep wanting to resurrect it. It is one of those give-away Schwinn Firenze GL 5000 road bikes from the 80's.

I continue trying to find a replacement as I am sure it will be cheaper (and the bike holds no sentimental value aside from the quality of ride); but for the sake of reference, how much would it cost to get a bike frame bent back into shape? I think this frame was likely an lightweight steel one, but referencing aluminum & carbon prices would be appreciated, too. (I don't know if it's even a viable solution, but wanted to at least crush the hope if it wasn't.)


texts: How do I know if there is water in my fork

texts:
I have a SunTour XCR fork. Not wanting to ruin it I am worried that a significant amount of water has penetrated beyond the seals. I have recently ridden the bike in rain, snow, and washed it in a bathroom with a showerhead.

The symptom that I am observing is the following. I just cleaned the stanchions, oiled them, compressed them rapidly to get oil beyond the seals, then wiped off excess oil and dirt, from the seals.

But unlike usually, when compressing the fork, there was a "whum" sound of air leaving the fork boots and passing throught some liquid at the seals.

On one hand, I had just put oil just there. On the other hand, I have never heared this sound (with a brand-new fork), when applying this procedure.

Should the fork be disassebled and dried? What other tell-tales are there that there is water in the a (spring-operated) suspension form?


texts: What do I do if my bike won't pump with an air pump at all?

texts: My bike tires will not pump up at all. I tried forever. I had this bike for a year and then it won't pump at all. I have a pump you stand on and use your 2 hands to pump. At first it was pumping air a little but now I it's not pumping. What do I do I'm confused. Do I need a new inner tube or I do I have a bad a tire?


texts:
Will a 700x 25-32 tube work in a 700x38 tire?

I just bought new tires that are 38mm but have a couple of new 25-32 tubes left from a different bike, can I get away with using these for light road use?

Paul


texts:
My rear (disc) wheel currently has a lot of movement in it. I have been riding it like this for 18 months due to intending to replace the rim (has been dented) rather than simply getting it trued. The movement has worsened but nothing else really noticeable has changed.

So I am now considering what are the impacts of ignoring a buckled wheel and continuing to ride. These must sit on a spectrum from ride comfort through to catastrophic failure but I don't understand what they are. There also in my mind be an impact on ride speed or additional energy expended by I can't quantify these.

So simply:

What is the impact of a buckled wheel?


texts: What valves are these, and why do each wheel have its own type?


texts:
I've got a bent QR rear axle and am looking for a replacement. Seems that these come in 9.5 and 10 mm sizes with a couple of different threadings. When I measure the OD of the threads I get around 9.8 mm – can I assume that that means I've got a 10 mm axle?

Is the right way to measure to pull the axle and measure an unthreaded section? Or does the size even matter if I'm replacing the cones and nuts with it?


texts: Why has my inner tube enlarged after moving from bicycle to repair

texts: I got two punctures in my front inner tuner of my bike and when I have gone to reassemble, the inner tube appears to have stretched a significant amount and no longer fits along the rim of the bike, not sure why this has happened and is there anything to be done to fix this?


texts:
Can anyone measure the width of the clamp (the dimension parallel to the bar) of the new XT M8100 12 speed Shimano brake levers?

I want to know the amount of 'bar space' the clamp takes up.

The width of either the XTR M9100 or SLX M7100 levers would be fine as well.


texts: Why do so many people put the inside pedal down when cornering?

texts:
When learning to ride, my dad taught me to always have the inside pedal up when cornering. He reinforced the lesson by telling me about a race he'd been in where someone clipped a pedal when cornering and took down 20-30 people in the pack behind him as he went down.

To me it's quite intuitive to keep that inside pedal up - it keeps it away from the ground when leaning into a corner and I'll often even hang my knee on the inside as I'm leaning to lower the center of gravity even further. Additionally, I think that I'm actually pushing on the outside pedal as I go around, which also feels very natural to do.

The vast majority of people I see riding these days (recreationally or light competitive, not professionally), including (much to my chagrin) my own children, insist on putting the inside pedal down when turning. I suppose that there is a belief that "my foot is closer to the ground, so if I start to crash I can save myself more quickly", but it just seems so totally counter intuitive and unnatural to me. It feels very unbalanced to have that inside leg down, like I'm going to fall over on it.

Why does this feel like the "right" way of going around a corner to so many people?


texts: Looking for bike trailer with pedals for a disabled, older adult

texts: Is there a way to have a pull-along bike trailer w/pedals (similar to the child sized trailer in the pic above) -- but sized for a disabled adult?


texts: Difference between Campagnolo quick release skewers

texts:
All,

There are several models of Campagnolo road quick release skewers, including the Type 20, Type 40, Khamsin, Record, and Bora/Hyperion/Bullet models. The price differences between the models varies greatly. However, I can't find any descriptions of what the differences are.

I have a standard 11-speed road wheelset with 100F/130R spacing (not Campy), and I'm looking for a Campy internal-cam skewer set for them. Which Campy skewers will work and are there materials, construction, or weight differences?
Thanks.


texts: What MTB 10 speed double cranksets exist with 180mm cranks?

texts:
I am looking for a a 10 speed dual crankset that has 180mm cranks.

I see the SRAM cranksets only come in 170 and 175mm.


texts: The best way to connect aerobars with Di2-shifters to bike w/ Ultegra 8000 Di2 and the junction box in the bar end?

texts:
The current installation (performed by the supplier) of the junction-box (EW-RS910) results in only one port left at the levers for what's usually used for sprint or climbing shifters. This port is found at the left lever (ST-R8050 L).

Can I get Shimano's four-port junction-box (SM-JC41), plug in the aerobar shifters (SW-R9160), and connect one of the remaining two ports of the junction-box with a wire (EW-SD50) to the available port on the left lever and thereby make it work?

Is there a better way, even if it works?


texts: What are real advantages of brake hose junction connectors?

texts:
I just received my new brake callipers and handles.  They come pre-assembled with hoses and a "hose junction connector".  These are the same as Dan Lloyd has in the below video:

I understand the advantage of these when there is a need to work on the hosing without the need to unwrap bartape.  However I can't really think of a scenario where I would work on the hoses and still worry about the bartape as well.  I do however see scenarios where these connectors would scratch my frame or just be plain ugly.

Before I spend money to replace something potentially useful: what are some real life advantages of using these connectors?


texts: Are cross brake levers with compact drop bar redundant?

texts:
I currently have traditional drop bars and cross (interrupter) brake levers. I like the interrupters and use them a lot.

But I'm going to get a compact drop bar (FSA Omega Compact bar on order), and in trying to envision this new setup, it seems the interrupters might be less useful with compact bars because my hands, even on the cross bar, will be closer to the (regular) brakes.  Plus the "cockpit" area, being more compact with compact bars, might be overly cluttered with interrupters in there. Plus with a compact bar I suspect I'll have my hands on the cross bar less of the time.

All in all it seems interrupter brakes are less desirable on a compact drop bar than they are on a traditional drop bar.

Does anyone use interrupter brake levers on a compact bar?


texts: How much better are aerodynamics between a vintage road bike and a top of the line aerobike?

texts:
(Just up front: (1) All comparisons made keeping all other factors equal! (2) I know this is a really hard comparison, but there seems to be virtually nothing canonical on here or the rest of google, so I figured it was worth a shot to ask.)

Currently I own a beautiful 80s Gazelle, full chrome, steel frame, on which I occasionally do trips of various distances. I'm struggling to cycle faster than 36 kph avg on it (no aerobars) over say 100k. I have an 8 speed, and I believe my highest gear is 12/54.

Because of this I'm thinking of making an upgrade to a proper aero bike, I think it might make a difference. But how much of an impact can I really expect? I'm looking at the Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 8.0, which I might fit with ENVE 7.8 racing wheels - I'd say that's about as aero as it would get. What kind of (rough) speed improvement can I expect?


texts: When trying to inflate my bike tire, I pump maybe 5 times then it gets difficult for me to pump because the handle is hard to pump?


texts: Will a change from 26x2.10 to 26x1.95 tires improve speed?

texts: If I change my 26x2.10 MTB knobbies by 26x1.95 slick tires, will I feel any difference on my speed on paved roads? or is it going to be the same? I am kind of confused about how much I should change the width of my tires to notice an improvement in my speed. The reason: I will be using my MTB to commute.


texts: How to tell if a folding bike is faster than a boris bike

texts: Am considering purchasing a folding bike, but curious to know if there is any way to know (other than planned / timed test riding)  if a particular model is faster (top speed, in a velodrome, with a reasonably fit rider) than the standard boris bike available in London?


texts: I cleaned my cassette and changed my chain, now my freehub is slipping. What are the possible causes?

texts:
I removed my cassette, cleaned it and put a new chain on my mountain bike. All seemed to go well and went back together nicely. However when I took it out for a ride the free hub seems to be slipping with a sort of judder. It's like it engages, but then slips almost like the chain is slipping.

I'm fairly confident it's not the chain slipping though as it's doing it an every gear (more so in lower gears where there is more tension) and the derailleur doesn't seem to bounce/move at all when it slips.

I pulled the cassette back off to check it all looked like it's assembled correctly, but I see nothing wrong.

Thanks!

Update 1
I've inspected the cassette fairly thoroughly and am fairly convinced it's not warn. There is no angling on the teeth and no visible sign of the chain not sitting properly. Watching it carefully and it looks like the cassette is spinning with it when it slips, not the chain slipping over it.

The old chain wasn't massively overused, it'd been on the bike maybe 8 months and done maybe 1000km. It was replaced due to a link failing, not because it'd warn out.

It's slipping a lot almost to the point it's completely unrideable. I'll stick the old chain on later and see if it stops, but I can't see such a massive difference being likely?

Update2
Thanks for all the answers trying to help. I've added some photos of the cassette. https://imgur.com/a/TY1Z7


texts: Is it normal to need to replace my brakes every few months?

texts:
My journey to work has uphill and downhill segments in both directions (a fact I'm sure to share with my future grandkids one day). In two of these segments, I have to brake pretty hard to arrest my speed.
Despite having my brakes replaced recently, and despite having worked from home about 50% of the time and not using my bike as much, I am once again in the situation where maximum-effort braking is no longer enough to slow myself down to a stop on these slopes.
Is the need for regular new brakes something I should just accept? Or are there higher quality brakes available that I should ask the bike shop to install?
EDIT: I think the brakes are disc brakes. This is what they look like:

I am vaguely aware that on some brakes you can adjust something that allows you to tighten the remaining brake material against the disc, but I'm not sure how you'd do that.


texts: Proper use of shimano chain measuring tool

texts: I bought a TL-CN42.  The instructions are vague.  I inserted the double toothed end between 2 rivets.  The single toothed end then rests on another rivet, BUT if I push down lightly, it will go between rivets.  Is it time to replace?  This is a 9.5 month old, 10 cog cassette, touring bike with about 2,700 miles, 95% on roads or paved trails.


texts: Does anyone have any tips for bleeding Hayes brakes? I have some Hayes Stroker Ryders and bleeding them is less than fun compared to bleeding my Avids.  Do they make any syringes for bleeding the Hayes? I've watched videos put out by Hayes and read their documentation, so I'm looking for tips that you would learn from experience.


texts: Should I buy a mountain bike, what size should it be?

texts:
My bike is becoming old and I'm upgrading.

Where I live half the roads are offroad/gravel, half of them are really old asphalt that has pot-holes in it. I'm thinking of buying a mountain bike, because they look really cool (that's not the main reason ofc), and as I've heard they're pretty nice to ride offroad, but I'm not sure about normal road use.

Do they need a lot of maintenance? Oh, and what size should it be? I'm 180cm which is about 5'11" for you Americans. My budget's about 200-300 euros, is that even enough for a good mountain bike that will serve me well for years?


texts:
My most recent bike was a Trek Domane SL6 that I loved, but the frame has started to show some cracks and I am looking at switching over the Shimano Ultegra components to a steel frame.

I am a big guy, 220 lb (100 kg) at my fighting weight so bike weight isn't a big concern. The bike will be used mostly on the road for bi-weekly 100+ mile (160 km) rides and the occasional long distance group ride. (I also might do a triathlon later this year but I am not looking to podium, just finish.) It will also be used to ride for fitness and fun, not really any commuting.

I have been looking at the Mason Definition 2 frame as well as some of the All-City frames. Does anyone have any experience with these two companies?

The bike will also be used, on weekdays, on a Wahoo Kickr trainer for workout purposes and to build up endurance.

The Domane is my only experience with modern bikes so I am not sure what else I should look at or avoid, so any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
Earlier today, I saw this bike with an absolutely bizarre drive-train. It looks like a single speed, but it has a derailleur on attached to it. The derailleur does not move horizontally, but only along a vertical axis. The bike is a Mongoose Alta, but I could tell that it was heavily modded. The bike is not originally a single speed, and has a different derailleur.

Does anyone know why this would be a desirable modification? I'm really curious.


texts:
I'm using a  21 speed bicycle,the problem is I'm unable to shift the chain to the smallest derailleur(rear)...the shifters are thumb press type
there's no problem in pressing the shifter...when shifting to the toughest gear the chain shifts up to second smallest derailleur(rear)..when i press the shifter it's moving but the chain is unable to catch the smallest one...can't figure out the problem :(


texts:
I am 1,85m tall, have shoes sized 58-59 (European) and have classic non sloped frame with seat tube 55cm. Problem is that my feet land with their middle on the pedals, not with the front part where the toes are.

I will try to move seat more to the back, but other than that, is it possible to look for different geometry on the frame, or are almost all frames the same in that respect?


texts: Which exact version of the Secteur is this bike?

texts:
I recently bought a used bike off CL but it is too big for me, so I am trying to identify it to figure out a fair-market value for reselling/trade-in. Alternatively, if I could figure out how to make the bike fit so I didn't have to sell it, I would, but I think all components are as small as they could be already (notice the seatpost is all the way down... it still doesn't fit!).
The only identifying features of the bike are that it's a Specialized Secteur and that it's black with red highlights. Near the back wheel it says "enhanced aluminum alloy" on the frame and the wheels say "classic" on them. The fork has a bit of clear plastic. It has two front gears and (I think) 9 back gears. My best guess for this bike, looking at the Specialized website, is that it's a Secteur Double. I am also aware that the wraps, seat and drivetrain have been updated/replaced. Thanks for any and all help!


texts:
What model and year is this bike? Stickers/Decals say Cannondale but not 100% sure if it is.

I have looked at catalogues of cannondale from 1997 to 2010 and can't see this bike.  If anyone could help I would be really thankful.its frame number is A9H64776 if this helps


texts:
Today I noticed that the sides of my rear tire has these cracks

The tires have been installed last June, and since then have always been used at the proper pressure (initially at the low end of suggested range, in the last 3 months in the upper end). The bike is stored in a shed or, when I go to work, in an underground garage.
Is it normal to have these cracks? I have always seen them on rather old tires.


texts: Front tire & downtube clearance - extremely dangerous?

texts:
I recently moved cities and met someone to buy a used "vintage" bike from them. While test riding at a slow speed I gradually applied the brakes. The front brake seemed to jump from light pressure to completely locking the front wheel at once and threw me over the top promptly!
My first thought was that the front wheel was out of true - causing the brake to apply harder as the other side of the wheel came around. However, the wheel was mostly straight.
Eventually I discovered that when braking, the frame and fork were flexing enough to cause the downtube to contact the front wheel. This contact caused the downtube to completely seize the front wheel instantly.
Has anyone else encountered this before? What fix would you even go about to stop the downtube from striking the front tire? I searched online and didn't find similar stories - so perhaps this super dangerous maintenance issues is rather uncommon?

Shogun Selectra - old frame, probably from the 90's
62cm frame
700c wheels
Rubino 28mm tires (seller said previous owner had 32mm tires) I didn't get the exact rim measurements. Tires seamed an average height for modern road tires
wheels mostly true
plenty of clearance for the tires in the fork (next time I'll have to check the downtube too)

edit - photos from comment

The frame paint was indeed worn away at the contact point between the front tyre and downtube - though looked like erosion over a long period of rubbing.


texts: I heard about a local club holding a kermesse race, and I was wondering what exactly they were?


texts: Can I use slider dropouts on my track dropouts?

texts:
My bike's dropout/fork-end basically look like this:

and I wonder if I could use something like this to convert it into a vertical dropout with a hanger and disc caliper mount:

I'll only be using the bike for road purposes. I suppose there shouldn't be any stress-related problems, right?


texts: Should I buy this bike with a dent in the top tube? Is it safe?

texts:
I'm considering buying this used steel-frame bike. But the top tube has a small dent (about one-third of the way from the saddle). Is this a problem? I plan to use it daily (~6-7mi) for commuting to work.

Here's the link: https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/genesis-cdf-racer-/1361247559


texts: 51cm top tube too small for someone who normally cycles frame with 55cm top tube?

texts: I'm looking to buy a second bike and have found a really nice frame. The bike I cycle at the moment, which fits me perfectly (I am 5'11" (180cm)), has a 55cm top tube. The frame I'm looking at has a 51cm top tube. Is this difference too much?


texts: Diagnosing buzzing sound when riding over uneven terrain

texts:
I've got an old steel-frame road bike which has started making a very unpleasant and worrying buzzing sound when riding over rough/uneven terrain (e.g. roads with lots of fissures/cracks, cobblestones etc.). I've tried

(lightly) whacking the metal fenders with my hand
(lightly) dropping the bike on each wheel individually as well as together
shaking the bike vigorously
and hitting/spinning the quill pedals

but I can't seem to reproduce the sound when not riding. What might it be? What steps can I take to diagnose this?


texts: Is a folding bike's chain more likely to slip?

texts:
I have recently purchased a Raleigh folding bike second hand.  I had to take it back for servicing (within warranty) when there were problems with the gears and derailleur.  The dealers have replaced the chain and the cassette, but when I tested it hard up a gentle hill in top gear, the chain was still prone to slipping.  The dealers were happy to take it back and look at it further, but also suggested that I had tested it too hard (e.g. standing up).

Are my expectations unrealistic - should I accept that a folding bike is less suited to high intensity riding than other bikes?  Or am I sensible to test it so vigorously before accepting it?


texts: Rear derailleur noise in big/big combination

texts:
Every Google search I've done over the past weeks has landed me on this great forum, so thought I would register.
Basically my son gave me his 1996 Scott Apache adventure mountain bike in a box and I've rebuilt it with new bearing, cables etc.

The problem I have is the chain seems to be rubbing on the side cage of the derailleur,  only when it's on the high front and rear cogs.
The chain is two links shorter that the original which was to badly rusted to re-use.
Old chain = 110
New chain = 108
I did rap the new chain around both large cogs and added two which gave me the 108.
Here's a couple of images:


texts:
I have a new 10 speed grx group set. The right hand shifter have only 9 gear. I check the problem is in lever,i felt in high gear it was making a big jump.
Are there any suggestions for someone who is having a similar problem??


texts: Do tube protectors increase rolling resistance or just add weight?

texts:
I have been experiencing a lot of flats lately (proportional to the increase in time/distance I have been doing), so I am thinking of adding a tube protector (e.g., one of these) to each tire.

Will this alter rolling resistance or just add weight to the wheel? I'm not sure what goes into rolling resistance aside from tire material and pressure. I expect a slight slow-down, but I'm not sure what to expect. I'm willing to trade slower speed for the time fixing flats.


texts: Can I convert a 1x9 speed Madsen kg271 cargo bike to a 2 or 3 x 9?

texts:
I know most these days seem to want to go the other direction, but my partner would like more gears on this heavy cargo bike that can be tough to pedal uphill.  I think the frame has all of the necessary cable stops etc. for installing a front derailleur. And I know it would have to lose the chain guard.

But, I don't know much more than that. Like, is it possible to change the crankset to a 2 or 3 ring version? What else would have to be changed? What has to be compatible, and how do I make sure that it is?

I am pretty handy, and might consider doing at least some of the work myself if I can, and if it's even possible, but I don't know how to make sure it will all work together.  And, if I can pick up components as I find good deals on them, that would be great too, so I need to know what to look for and what has to match, even if I'm going to have someone else put it all together.

I will do my best to provide additional information if it is needed. Thanks!


texts:
I got my toddlers bike second hand & it looked like tyres were a bit flat. We brought new tubes & when I went to replace them I found that the current ones inflated.  It seems that I can pump & pump & still no more pressure is added past certain point. I.e., one can still depress a section of a tyre so the sides meet.  When daughter is on the bike it looks like there is no air. With a single finger & minimal pressure I can flatten the tyre to the rim.

Is this normal or what am I doing wrong?


texts:
The axle on my bike that supports the pedals appears to have loosened, so that there is precession in it - I can slightly jiggle the pedals back and forth in a perpendicular direction to the axis.

Since this is a cheap bike, I am not particularly surprised. Is it possible to correct this, for instance by buying a new set of pedals and replacing them?


texts: Can I clean out a set of old handlebars with water?

texts:
I've bought these bars second hand and would like to clean them out before I use them. Right now they're full of dust, dirt, spiders, etc.

Will it do any damage to run water through them? I'll, of course, let them drain and dry before putting them to use.


texts:
How much more expensive are hydraulic disk brakes compared to mechanical disk brakes?

I'm asking this to determine which parts contribute to price differences across different models and brands. Is that a big factor? A general estimate would be also fine. And I'm comparing this in low-end mountain bikes.

Thanks


texts: Adaptor for Garmin Edge 530 out-front mount to a Go Pro

texts:
I am using the Garmin out-front mount for my Edge 530 and I am looking for an adapter that ables me to mount my Go Pro underneath the out-front mount. Does anyone know any method? Hacks?

P.s: I know K-Edge is making mounts but first I'd like to make sure there are no methods to use my original Garmin for this.

Also, found that Edge 530 mount is different that Garmin out-front mount you can buy on Garmin's website. The latter has four screw thread and as you can see mine doesn't.


texts:
I am pretty new here, and I am not acknowledged with the bicycle terminology in English, so this topic might be a duplicate. Sorry in advance.

So, when I put more pressure while pedaling, the chain over-jumps (some teeth of the gear ring are being missed). Upon observation I think the problem is in the front gear rings (they're 3), but I am not quite sure. When the chain is on higher gear (smaller gear ring) on the back ones - it jumps more that when I am on a lighter gear (bigger gear ring).

Any suggestions what can be the problem and how can I fix this ?

P.S. the teeth on the gear rings seem to be fine and not waster or smth.


texts: My girlfriend have just bought a gel saddle for her hybrid bike. She does day trips with it (30-50 kms) and a bit of commuting. Some say this saddle is useless and she should buy bike trousers instead. What do you think?


texts: Why doesn't my new SRAM XG-1295 cassette bolt turn freely?

texts:
I am trying to install a brand new SRAM XG-1295 cassette. I watched many videos and it seems very straight forward. Place the cassette on the freehub, match the splines in back, tighten with a cassette tool.

But for some reason, the bolt(?) on the cassette does not turn. This has nothing to do with the freehub. I'm holding the cassette in my hand, trying to turn the bolt but it does not turn.

Any help would be appreciated :)

-MIke


texts: When applying pressure to my bike to go faster to maintain a speed, my bike aggressively ticks and doesn’t run smoothly. Could this be the bottom bracket?


texts:
Say you want to build entirely your own bike, from frame to ring bell. Is there a site that can help you with compatibility among all parts? Or maybe you just want to upgrade your crank set but you don't know what else you must upgrade (BB? Pedals? Front derailleur?)

I'm thinking something like PC Part Picker or Logical Increments for pc's.


texts: Slick tires and Knobby tires vs Bumpy roads!

texts:
My question is if Slick tires can support bumpy roads better than knobby tires?

I ask this because I'm currently working doing delivery all around Manhattan and unfortunately I get some bumpys roads on the go while riding with my Road bike. The constant flat tires I get every week got me thinking on take the ride on a MTB bike but if I use a MTB, I want to go as fast as possible like I do in my road bike, so I found that changing the type tire to a slick one can do the job and there is where my question come now

Can Slick tires support bumpy roads better than knobby tires?

I also know that air pressure have impact in this situation but I want to know if there is any difference beside of this that make Slick tires better to bumpy roads than Knobby tires!

Thanks!


texts: Does one replacement automatically require another?

texts: I need the chain, chain set and cassette replaced on my road bike - does this automatically mean that the bottom bracket must also be replaced?


texts:
I have new derailleur and I am somewhat surprised that when I try to spin it with hand (no chain is mounted yet) it basically has no momentum, it almost immediately stops. Almost any other spinning part of the bicycle has much more momentum and spins for a while.

Granted, the wheels in derailleur are the lightest ones, but shouldn't they at least make a one full turn?

The screws are not too tightened because out of curiosity I loosened them already. No change.


texts: Do simpler casettes have less issues with missing shifts?

texts:
On my new Trek Marlin with a 8 gear cassette, sometimes I try to downshift into the middle of the range of gears and it doesn't take (upshifting works fine). I can hear the gear clicking for a few seconds before the chain finally snaps into the correct position causing the chain tension to jerk while pedaling.

Do cassettes with a large range of gears have more issues with getting the chain to switch to the proper gear? Is this an issue that can be fixed by adjusting the derailleur tension?


texts: How do you decide your route to commute to work?

texts:
I'm seriously considering bicycling to work, and I'd like some advice on the way to choose a route. Specifically, I have these two options:

Go on a path with only 2 cross streets, but a road that is 55 mph. I'd probably have to bike off-road, but there's a well maintained dirt shoulder.
Go on a path with a bike lane, only 35 mph traffic, but many cross streets, traffic lights, etc.

Each is about the same distance, so that's not a significant factor. I'm more familiar with the first route, as it's a clear cut reason to drive that way, but I know my way around the second route. There really isn't any other routes, although I might be able to make the second route a bit more off of a main road with a bit of work...

Also, feel free to give any generic advice to choosing a bicycle route.


texts: Three speed STI shifter on two speed crankset

texts:
I just bought old Shimano RSX STI shifters for my 90s road bike, which had a Shimano 600 Tricolor Group (2x7) with downtube shifters.
While the rear shifter I bought is correctly a 7 speed one, the front one is a 3 speed one. Is there any way to adapt it so it works on the 2 speed crankset and derailleur?
Thanks!


texts: Name of colour of paint on Kink Volte BMX

texts:
I am looking for the color name for restoration on my kink volte?
serial # aca10e001651
Any ideas would help. I'm hitting a brick wall with google.


texts: Can I use a Presta tube in a Schrader rim?

texts: I keep losing pressure in my tires, and among other things, I'm looking at the valves in the tubes. It's an old mountain bike with 26 inch tires. Can I use Presta tubes on rims drilled for Schrader valves? I know the valve will be smaller than the hole and could cause issues there, but has anyone had success (or failures) with this?


texts:
I have a full ironman scheduled in 2018 and will therefore be doing a lot of mileage next year. My question is, if I get a flat during the race, is it basically race over as it is unlikely that I or mechanic will be able to fix
at roadside or is there a quick fix solution to get me to the end of the 180k race?  PS - I am a female and not good at changing tyres quickly at the best of times


texts:
Here in my country is kind of difficult to get certain types of handlebars, but it is easy to get flat and riser mountain type handlebars and standard types of road drop bars.

So I'm investigating whether it is possible to purposefully bend a straight handlebar to have it in another shape.

Can it be done with common store-bought tools? If not, I can take it to a metal working shop and get it bent there? Will it be safe?

In particular, I'd like to turn straight handlebar into a bullhorn shaped one.

I'd like to have this done on aluminum but i'm not sure whether a finished handlebar can be bent.

A second option is to make the handlebar out of steel pipe that is easily bought locally. However to install it on a bike shims will be needed to make up for the "bulge" that handlebars have in the clamp area.

I have currently configured my bike with a short straight handlebar fit with bar ends and it works pretty well for my purposes, but I'd like to have a rounded curve instead of the sharp angle that the bar and bar ends have.

I currently do not have the means to buy a ready-made bullhorn via internet by myself, but if I had, the hassle of shipping, customs taxes and other annoyances made me wonder if making my own is feasible.


texts: Do I need a Blackburn bike rack for my CoPilot Limo kids seat, or will the vintage Schwinn rack do?

texts: I was given a CoPilot kids bike seat and the instructions say that it requires a Blackburn EX-1 rack. But will my Schwinn bike rack do the trick, safely?


texts: New roadbike. Poor cassette quality control?

texts:
I've just bought a new ROSE PRO SL 105 roadbike and took it for a spin. At first, i noticed a little clicking sound in the rear cassette. I thought that it only might need some time for the chain to sit properly. When I took a closer look at the cassette, I've noticed that some of the teeth look a little too sharp, unlike the others.

Is this something I should be worried of? It seems to me like a failure of the quality control. The rear cassette is a Shimano 105 CS-5800 11-speed.

If so, I will contact the support for the warranty claim. Do you have any experience how they will approach this problem? Rose is a manufacturer and also a direct bike seller like Canyon, so they have no retail stores.

Thanks in advance!


texts:
Any and all information about this motobecane would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you


texts:
If I'm riding at 20mph on the flat with no wind, and then a 10mph wind kicks up, if I'm heading directly into it I'll slow down by X mph, and if I'm heading directly with it (i.e. pure tailwind) I'll speed up by Y mph. (As an aside, are X and Y likely to be the same? From experience I'm assuming not)

If this is on a perfectly circular course, is the effect of the side wind (I should have said 'the angle of the wind') smoothly proportional? I.e. assuming constant power output, when doing a lap and so experiencing each angle of wind for the same amount of time, would my speed show a smooth trend from 20-X mph, through 20mph, to 20+Y mph, and then back again, maybe like a sine wave? Or do side winds mess with the cyclist in a way that pure head and tailwinds don't?

For extra credit, do you know where the wind would be coming from for me to be travelling at my original speed of 20mph?


texts: Nine speed derailleur on 10 speed cassette

texts:
Will combination work? I have 10 speed shifters, 10 speed chain, 10 speed cassette and all components are Shimano.

The reason I ask is because I am new to cycling and I am having trouble indexing my gears. Gears skip and I get some catching. It just might be not indexing properly or it might be the combination.

From a comment:

  It’s a road bike but decided to go flat bar initially from a comfort aspect, hence the reason for the Tiagra flatbar shifters - 10 speed. All components are new, frame is second hand, hanger is straight from what I can tell. Cassette is 10 speed Ultegra, derailleur 105 9 speed, chain is a 10 speed SRAM. It’s a mix and I would have gone all 105 10 speed but I bought it aftermarket from a bike shop, and I am only making sense of the components now.

EDIT: Take delivery of the Tiagra RD 4700 tomorrow.Will let everyone know how it goes.


texts: Are the Shimano derailleurs sold on Ali Express genuine or fake?

texts:
I am trying to buy Shimano Alivio M4000 components. When I was researching on Ali Express, I found this. This is Alivio M4000 including the front derailleur, rear derailleur, left and right Shifters and only for just $40. On Amazon they are sold for $35 and that is just for the rear derailleur. This just doesn't seem right.

I know this isn't exactly bicycle related but then I thought this was a worthy question because there are lot of people buying Shimano parts from Ali Express and it is impossible to segregate the actual sellers apart from the phoney ones. Answering this question can prevent lot of people from getting scammed.

Any more information about this would really be appreciated!


texts: Avid brake lever plays, do I need to bleed?

texts:
The particular bike has Avid Juicy 3.5 brake system and it was unused for a long period (years). So I decided to bring it to my wife's place.
I removed the front wheel and put it in the trunk. When I arrived and assembled it, I immediately noticed that BOTH brake levers were playing freely up to halfway down.
I removed them from the handlebar and turned them upside down, pushed the levers and voila, the lever resistance came back.
I have no idea why this happened, it now seems OK but I have some doubts.
Could you explain why this happened and do I need to bleed them just in case?


texts: Where can I get a Job that involves bicycles?

texts: I was wondering if anyone knows any job or if you could advise as of what I could do to obtain a new job that involves bicycles?


texts: Experience with surfboard bike rack (or cart)

texts:
I want to make (DYS) a rack or cart for carrying a surfboard on my bike. The idea would be to have space for only 1 board and being able to go as far as 150 km. So it should be as light as possible, comfortable and made of afordable materials (of course the combination will be located on an optimum non-perfect point). So, going through the internet I have seen a lot of different models, but I don't have any experience in relation to them. What configuration would you recommend me?  Depending on how the board is placed, I would be worry for being affected by the wind or making the bike and/or the cart inestable. Is the wind really a problem? I will use it in Scotland, so it could get windy.

Some examples: http://www.thesurfingblog.com/surfboard-bike-rack-the-many-styles/  (site dead 2015-12-02)

I like this one (if it works) http://www.bettersurfthansorry.com/prod-39-1-1386/.htm However, it seems way too expensive for what it is.


texts: Pain in the toes while cycling using clipless shoes

texts:
I am not sure why I get a pain in my toes. After some 75 km of cycling, I don't find it right. The blood starts to clot in the tip of the toes.
After I lift my legs while lying down, it gets alright.
I am not new to cycling. I have done a lot of cycling but not much with my clipless shoes.
I feel that the shoes are sharp in front end to add to the aerodynamics.
Should I change my shoes? What should I check for while buying clipless shoes?


texts: Bottom bracket with built-in internal hub - does this exist?

texts:
I've heard that one can install a bottom bracket that has what is essentially a built-in internal hub, giving one the ability to add a virtual double chainring where there's only one. This would be designed to be used in concert with whatever gear cluster or internal hub you have installed in the rear.

If this is true, does it exist in this form, or have I heard of a distorted version of the device? What are the advantages and disadvantages of such a bottom bracket?


texts: What are the advantages or disadvantages of different spoke styles

texts:
I see triathlon bikes with various different spoke styles, from normal wire to aerodynamically shaped blades to completely solid wheels, but I can't understand why there should be so many styles.

I can understand needing less spokes on an indoor track, as you won't get bumps, so I'm okay with that, but can anyone shed light on the decisions behind the other styles?

I have also seen this question on flat spokes but that wouldn't explain the wing like spokes or the solid wheels, would it?


texts: What is the difference between KMC 410Z vs 710 chain?

texts:
What is the difference between KMC 410Z VS KMC 710 chain?

For use in single-speed or fixed gear bike.


texts:
Hi, i can't figure out what the model of my bike is. I know that it's an Orbea AVANT bike, but i can't figure out which series it is.

Any help would be a appreciated thanks!

The frame is made of Aluminium. The fork is carbon fibre. Everything on it is original, nothing has been changed.

I got the bike from participating in a bike tour, they didn't give me any info on what model the bike was. I've asked the people that arranged the bike tour what model the bike was, but they don't seem to have any information about the bike.

This might help a bit, the shifters, front and rear Derailleur has the text shimano 105 on them.


texts: Why did the bike shop put grease on my seatpost?

texts:
When I bought a new bike my LBS put grease on the part of the seatpost that inserts into the frame.

Why is this? Surely it can't seize?


texts: What bicycle design factors affect stopping power?

texts:
I've been under the impression that bikes and motorcycles cannot stop as quickly as cars.  I'm curious what factors have the largest impact on bike stopping distance.

What comes to my mind are:

Tire size (more rubber on the road means more stopping power), a higher diameter/lower-pressure tire should be able to apply more friction to stop
Bike weight (less weight is less intertia)
Brake types(?) Do rim vs. disc make a difference (it would seem they are negligible as both lock up the wheel when too much pressure is applied)

What impact do these factors have?  What other factors affect braking?  Which factors can be tweaked for greater stopping power--and at what trade-off?

Note: My assertion that cars can stop more quickly than bikes originated from my motorcycle rider's ed when I was getting my motorcycle endorsement.  It was stated that cars are able to stop more quickly in general, and as such you must learn to follow further back than if you were driving, and also learn to swerve around stopped vehicles (in emergencies) rather than trying to brake in a straight line--as you are most likely going to end up on the bumper if you only brake without additional maneuvering.


texts:
I have a dub crankset with arm length 175 (https://www.sram.com/en/truvativ/models/fc-styl-7k-b1)
I want to change the crank arm length to 167.5
There's no 167.5 crank arm for SRAM MTB line (I think SX/NX/GX/XX1/X01 are MTBs?)
I found Red and Force 167.5 arms which are also DUB (I think these Red and Force are for road?)
So can I mix the Red or Force crank arm (https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Force-AXS-Crank-Assembly/dp/B07WCRY3BY) with my existing MTB crankset ?


texts: I just got a Garmin Edge 1030, and have newer Ultegra Di2 with the buttons on the hoods. I was excited to see that the Garmin can connect to Di2. When I look for it in the sensors, it is not coming up. Do I need to add an ANT+ transmitter to my current Di2 setup? I am not sure, or is that something that should already be installed and the problem is else where?


texts:
Do OnGuard MinPin Locking Skewers provide adequate security?

I read one review (http://www.rei.com/product/842891/onguard-minpin-keyless-3-piece-locking-skewer-set) saying that the skewers can easily be defeated. Another review (http://www.amazon.com/review/R3CTA0K40XLP1K/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0077T7CR6&linkCode=&nodeID=&tag=) said the skewers could probably be either broken or defeated w/ a magnet or pliers.

For anyone who has used these skewers, how would you describe the security that they provide?


texts: I just bought my daughter a mountain bike (at a garage sale) a Fuji Thrill with Shimano gears.  Anyway we need to replace the right hand shift/brake combo lever(the little spring is shot and won't allow changing of gears).  It is a 3 x 7(with a little window to see the #'s 1-7 with a green indicator).  The guy at the bike store suggested a Shimano EF60 but I need to buy both and change all the wiring. I can do the work but would rather only replace the broken one.  Any ideas on where I can find a part online and what the part # would be?


texts: What are the widths of Shimano 8, 9, and 10 speed cassettes?

texts:
I was hoping that someone could provide me with the precise Shimano road-bike 8, 9, and 10 speed sizes for the following:

Cassette Spacer Width
Cog/Tooth Width
Maximum Chain Width


texts: Rear derailleur movement where it is bolted to hanger

texts:
I've checked the hanger and that seems solid. There is some movement/wobble in the derailleur at the bolt that connects it to the hanger, like it's not quite tight enough even though it's tightened as far as it will go. When followed down to the cage it feels like 1-2mm in sideways cage movement, maybe more - it feels significant anyway. The cage itself is definitely still solid on the derailleur, and it lines up straight under all of the sprockets.
I took the derailleur off, cleaned the threads and everything around them including the c-clip, refitted but still some wobble. I think it's affecting my shifting as the cage might not necessarily return to the exact same place at the extremes of the cassette meaning I can't find a cable tension that works for all gears.
Is there anything else I can check before trying a new derailleur? (I have a medium cage ready to go but the current short cage has been working fine so reluctant just to retire it)
I did notice that around the c-clip it wasn't an entirely flat surface, there were a few metallic ridges the were higher around the edge than other parts of the surface. Are they there for a reason and do they have to be located in a certain place? It's a Tiagra derailleur, looks pretty much like this: https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsyF4.jpg


texts:
Servicing a mate's bike. The brake caliper nuts were already rounded off. Tried all the hints to remove without success.

Agreed to saw off the calipers as new ones were needed anyway. Got this done and removed all parts apart from the nut. Both the front nut, inside the fork and the rear in the frame are currently immovable.

Soaked in wd40 and tried screwing in a bolt from the front and tapping to loosen - without success. Any further hints or advice??


texts: Sunglasses fogging on cool bright mornings - can I improve airflow?

texts:
My favourite riding sunglasses are my Bollé Mamba II safety sunglasses - they're light and wrap around properly while being by far the most  comfortable ones I've found.  They're also cheap.

There is a downside, which is normally only apparent in winter but was a bit of an issue yesterday morning: they fog easily, especially on the bit I look through using the drops or aero bars.  Yesterday was sunny all day, but I started before it warmed up, so I was out in around 10°C, sweating a little.  It's possible wind chill on the outside was cooling the glasses, as I averaged >30km/h for the hour or two this was a problem, before the day warmed up.  This wasn't about stopping, because I didn't, but when rolling along.  It was better when riding into the sun, but that never lasted long.

I like the way they sit so close to my face, but it means that unlike my less-good cycling-specific glasses there's no airflow behind the lens.

The issue may be what they call "upper protection".  They're a sort of frameless design, but with a little ridge running along the top of the lens, at eyebrow height and touching my face.  It's visible (just) in this photo of them upside down:

They're getting a little scratched and it's nearly time for a new pair, so it's a  good time to try some experiments.  Is there some way I can increase the airflow behind the lens? Are there designs that do this so I can be inspired?  I don't really want to try a coating, because I'm likely to wipe it off.

Other, looser fitting and less comfortable glasses don't fog up nearly as much (including another Bollé polycarbonate pair, so it's not the material).


texts:
We've purchased a new e-bike for commuting, its very heavy and carries a heavy load, and the commute is through a very hilly neighborhood. The mechanical disc brakes have become a constant issue, loosing nearly all braking power in usually about a week's time. I've cleaned the pads to remove the glazing (light sanding) and 91% isopropyl alcohol on the rotors, and even replaced the pads, all to the same result - good for a few days, followed by diminished to total loss of braking power over the course of the week. What is wrong with my disk brakes?

https://blixbike.com/products/aveny-electric-city-bike
Tektro Aquila Mechanical Disc Brake, 160mm Rotor


texts: Is mountain bike good for long distances?

texts:
I am currently living in a plane area. I use an MTB (mountain bike). My work place is 10 to 15 km away from my home. Temperature is around 36 degree in celsius in my region.

Question : Is mountain bicycle good for this purpose?

Edit: See the image of mtb below. One more thing roads are straight but there are few up and downs in my ways.


texts: Getting a dura ace 7800 derailleur to work with 10 speeds

texts:
I have a bike set up with a dura ace 7800 derailleur, specifically listed as a 9 or 10 speed model. I am interested in getting it working in the 10-speed configuration. Two things:

I remember reading somewhere that you have to rout the cable a certain way to get it to work with 10 speeds, but I can't remember how to do so.
I can't get it to rest in the bottom gear even when the limit screw is all the way out and the cable isn't attached. I can easily force it into place, though. I am considering taking out a spacer from behind my cassette that the instructions said I would be needing.

Any advice?


texts: Shimano TOURNEY FC-TY301 crank arm material

texts:
I have spent ~30 minutes searching for a clue, maybe I'm getting old and dull...
Are the FC-TY301 crank arms made of steel or aluminium alloy?


texts: How do you clip your helmet to your bag when not wearing it?

texts: I've been using a carabiner through the strap to clip my helmet to my backpack.  But it seems clumsy, and the helmet dangles around a lot.  I've seen other people with helmets closely mounted on a bag.  How do they do it?  Is there some kind of clip for this purpose?


texts: Replacement for a Suntour Superbe front derailleur

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I broke my front derailleur trying to adjust it. It's on a 1980's Klein Performance road bike.

Should I try getting only the same one, or is there any replacement that could work well in its stead?

I love the bike, and the metal looked cheap after breaking so I don't mind trying an upgrade.

TIA


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The child is female and is of 2.8 years old.

We have a choice between 12 inch, and a 14 inch cycle. Don't have any cycle shops around. Will be purchasing this online.

I don't know what 14 inch  stands for, but as you can see there is a size difference between the following 12 inch cycle and the other 16 inch one.

Cycle is supposed to have supporting wheel.

http://www.herocycles.com/kids-zone/fruity-12t?sort=p.price&order=ASC#.VrmyXahX5J8

http://www.herocycles.com/kids-zone/blaze?sort=p.price&order=ASC#.VrmyOKhX5J8

How to measure which sized bicycle can a toddler ride?


texts: Are bicycle rear racks and panniers suitable for cross-country riding?

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Later this summer, I intend to make a ten-day travel. It is going to be mainly road touring with one-two-tree days of sloped dirt roads or forest trails possible.

I usually pack heavily, carrying a 60 litre pack, that I will probably fill up for this journey (tent, sleeping bag, beer will be restocked continuously). Both the backpack and bags have rain covers. However, my concern is that putting around 10 kg(22 lb), maybe 15kg(33 lb) directly over my rear wheel will ruin the rim at the first hole I bump.  Which should I choose : the backpack or the system of rear rack mounted bags system?

Related: Why do cyclists prefer messenger bags over backpacks?
Gary Fisher Kaitai suffers from handlebar wobble at moderate speed with 10lbs on rear rack


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My back wheel stopped free wheeling so we took out the back wheel and opened the hub to find that the axle is bent. So we threw away the axle and thought to replace wheel. Now I know the axle can be replaced but i don't know the dimensions of the axle i had.

i looked at the specifications for my bike but i couldn't find any detailing on the rear axle length and diameter. my bike is: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/xtc-27dot5-2-2014

How can I find a replacement for my rear axle?


texts: Hydraulic disc brakes on cross bike (post mount)

texts: I have just bought some post mount calipers (Shimano) to fit on a cyclocross bike and separately some 160mm discs. The calipers do not quite sit flush on the post mounts (front or back) before the disc reached the back of the caliper. Should I expect to need washers to space the caliper out a bit further, and if so, what thickness?


texts: Mounting light on handlebar with bag installed

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On my bike I have installed an handlebar bag (the Ortlieb Ultimate 5).
Since I am also considering installing lights on the handlebar, I am afraid they will be simply shielded by the bag.

The clerk of the bike shop where I asked for information assured me the handlebar bags are designed to ensure handlebar lights can be used, but I am not sure and I don't want to try it by buying an expensive light that I cannot then use.

In the picture you can see the bag holder as installed on the handlebar. The bag will exceed its level of few centimeters.