texts: Does the initial position of the B-tension screw matter?

texts:
When I'm installing a rear derailleur, should the B-tension screw be in a high or low setting or does it not matter? I've tried searching for information on this but no one seems to mention this so it seems like it doesn't matter.

The B-tension screw on the derailleur that I have makes contact with the hanger. The part of the derailleur to which the screw is attached can move and is spring loaded (if that's the correct term) so to me the initial setting seems important.


texts: Why does my rear derailleur keep breaking?

texts:
I upgraded my rear-mech with a new cassette, chain and new cables a few weeks ago since then i've mangled two rear mechs!

Both times I've just been riding along; not in a big gear; not at the extremes of the cassette, the mech just seems to get caught on something (the chain?) and bends and snaps!

I've got to buy a 3rd mech and I'm wondering why it's happening, is it just bad luck?

The mech I replaced (an ageing XTR) I'd had for years without any miss-hap but now I've mangled two XT mechs, one was a Shadow and the one prior to that was a standard.

Any sugggestions?


texts: The stem connects the handlebars to the...?

texts:
If this is a stem... ... what's this?
I'm asking because I need to buy a taller one so I don't have to bend over as far. It's not convenient to buy a new bike, and I already have an adjustable stem which just doesn't quite get me there.


texts: I just bought a Giant TCX SLR 2, but I still have money to spend. Which parts should I upgrade?

texts: I am new to bicycling. I bought this bike because it had good reviews and ratings and it fits the area where I am living. I am not intending to use this in a cyclocross race, but maybe in the future. I still have money to spend, so which parts of the bike should I upgrade for the bike to function even better?


texts: Is it a good idea to sand off the rotor when exchanging disc brake pads?

texts: During operation, disc brake pads cut grooves into the rotor. When replacing the pads with new ones, would it be a good idea to smoothen the rotor with sandpaper(e.g. grit 200 then grit 800)? What is the role of these grooves on the disc in braking?


texts: How should an unattached SunRace R90 bar end shifter behave?

texts:
A few months ago I bought a SunRace R90 9 speed bar end shifter off eBay because it was ridiculously cheap and left it in a drawer.

My 8 speed Ultegra bar end has just died and I'm considering buying a 9 speed cassette and chain and using my eBay shifter rather than forking out £40 for a new lever.

The only question is if the SunRace is in working condition.

Perhaps naively I'd expect to be able to move it through 8 'clicks'. In actual fact I can move it through about 15.

Is this normal, or has it got a fault?

Without forking out for parts I've no way to try it out.


texts: Why does this hollowtech crankset have play?

texts:
Background

Shimano deore crankset (not XT)
The crankset has done about 10000km (6200miles).
It is from a touring bike.
Most of those 10000km was done with the
bicycle loaded (bags on both front and back racks).

Problem

The crankset in the picture has play in the directions shown by the arrows.

However in this position (180deg opposite) the crankset does not have play.

I do not notice the play while riding. I notice the play when tugging at the cranks with both hands.

When I take off the crankset, clean everything, then grease and re-install the crankset, the play is gone but comes back after about 100km (62miles). The play does not seem to get worse.

On half of the inside of the crank (non chain wheel), there are teeth marks. The teeth marks are smooth as far as I can tell.

Here the marks.

Here on the other half no marks.

On the axle / spindle there are similar marks on the one side but not the other side.

Here with the marks. Again the teeth marks are smooth.

Here the half without the marks.

Questions

Is the play indeed due to a worn out crank? (I have not got the tool to remove the bottom bracket, so I cannot test to see if it is the BB)?
Are the markings, or rather this type of wear normal? The original crankset was a deore XT which never had play and did about 20000km (12400miles).
When buying a new crankset, should I buy the more expensive or the less expensive? I was told expensive means light materials but quicker wear of the chain wheel, and cheap means heavy materials (metal) but the chain wheel lasts longer?


texts: What's the quickest "boost food" whilst riding in a fast bunch?

texts:
I am starting to ride with a bunch of cyclists doing on average 40 to 50k.
My personal average is around mid 30s to 45k/hr.
Aside from proper training, exercise and leg muscles, what food do you recommend to give you a quick energy boost to be able to keep up with the bunch?
I was told Mars Bars are quick energy sources, but high in the bad stuff. Any other more natural recommendations?
Thanks


texts: FSA Omega BB30 spindle comes out of drive-side crank

texts:
I have a Cannondale CAAD Optimo Disc Tiagra that came with the FSA BB30 bottom bracket and the FSA Omega BB30 50/34 crank set pre-installed.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed that the chain started slightly touching the front dérailleur at one specific part of the revolution (right when I start applying torque pedalling down with my right foot). I took the crank set out and found that the spindle has slightly moved out from the drive-side crank (the one that it's supposed to be permanently attached to) and was a little wobbly. I applied a couple of hits with a hammer and brought it back in; assembled the crank set back to the frame and the problem was gone. Unfortunately, after riding a couple of miles the same problem re-appeared.

Has anyone had any experience with spindle sliding out of the drive-side crank and know how this could be solved? I tried removing the spindle out of the crank so that I could apply some glue and slide it back in but it doesn't seem that it can be removed, it simply slides out ~2.5mm and subsequently causes some lateral movement of the crank set.

Any help and opinions will be appreciated! I attach a photo of how it looks like. You can see how far the spindle should slide in normally.


texts:
![It says 'T' and under it ''Made in Austria'' in the English language, which I find strange1

How do I identify this bicycle? I couldn't find online any manufacturer from Austria called merely 'T'.


texts:
I'm just looking to rent for a weekend away. I really know nothing about bikes and could use a hand selecting something that would be suitable for riding in the countryside and not be in complete agony?

There's a list here i'm looking to rent from (as i have money off)

Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks!


texts: Is it possible to rebuild a a steel bike frame (to make it lighter) by welding aluminum tubes

texts: I have an old (80's I guess) road bike, it is heavy, I'd like to make lighter. is it posible to cut and replace the tubes on the frame by welding aluminum ones?


texts:
My 4yr old son has a 16in Bikestar and at times he maxes out the gearing on it trying to keep up with his old man.  How feasible is it to add either a 2 or 3 speed hub to such a bike?  I'm concerned about how much space the hub is going to take up and since I doubt the wheel is a 36h, can one be used with less spokes?  I know kids grow out of bikes quickly but he is going to have this bike for a few years for now, and this wheel could be passed down to his sister (right now I'm planning on getting the same brand).

While cruising the flats it seems like his cadence is getting close to the high side while doing 7~8 mph.  Any bit of downhill causes him to max out and spin crazy.  When he wants to pick up the pace a little will also cause him to spin crazy.  We have a few hills along our favorite routes that he struggles on so I can't just swap out the existing gearing.  The front chain ring fills the chain guard so that is out of the question as well.

BACKGROUND INFO:

Ok, so I was mostly joking about the keeping up part, I let him lead and set the pace.  When he falls behind, I slow down and let him pass, but stubborn kid likes to follow the trailer ...uh princess chariot... too.  He also rides this bike daily to daycare and back (2 miles one way).

This bike was picked with commuting in mind.  We got him this bike for his 4th birthday and about a few weeks after ditching the training wheels.  He just barely fit it then and rides great with it now so we still have some time with it before he gets a new one.

Alternatives won't work as well since who wants to downgrade?  He loves having his own bike.  A trailer bike would probably not mesh well, he is already trying to attach his sisters trailer to his bike (and I'm tempted to let him).  Long distance isn't an issue with him either, his first ride without training wheels on a 12 inch bike was 15 miles and his first ride with this bike was 21 miles.  The common "long way" home from daycare is 10 miles itself.


texts: For fitness's sake, is it better to ride with low cadence in high gear or higher cadence in medium gear?

texts:
I've started riding to get fit and lose weight. As part of that, I set little challenges for myself, eg: "I'm going to ride these next two blocks as quickly as possible in the highest gear". I'd be pedaling slowly and strenuously but moving quickly. As I got more fit I would spend by far the greater part of my 20klm daily ride in the highest gear.

However, someone at the bike shop where I get repairs mentioned I was doing it wrong - that I should be aiming for higher cadence and only use the top gears when going down hill.

What's better solely for losing weight?


texts: How do you shift your weight when leaning on a turn?

texts:
When I turn I usually shift my weight on the same side I'm turning to. To ease the discussion let's assume we are turning left, on a paved road (no mud/gravel/potholes/grease/oil/ice/door traps).

I would lower the right foot, move my bottom to the left and this is sufficient to tilt the bicycle to the left.

However I have seen other people doing different things (remember we are turning to the left):

some people do the same as I do, but in addition they stick their left knee sideways. I tried (when nobody was watching) but don't see any advantage.
Some other people instead move their bottom to the right and then (I think using their hands) they tilt the bicycle to the left.

Having given this context (but feel free to add more styles/methods) I wonder what's the best way to take a turn, primarily in terms of speed, but I'm also interested in safety, when I can activate my brain enough (sometimes happens).


texts: Pitted Cups - Can I get away with this level of pitting?

texts:
I have two bottom bracket cups that I'd prefer to reuse (finding Avocet Bottom Bracket cups even on Ebay is hard!). I have purchased a replacement Avocet spindle of the correct size. I'm wondering if I also need to replace the cups. The condition of the cups is better than the condition of the axle. The pitting in the picture is only on one side of the cup - I tilted to cup to catch the light so that the picture would take - and it's not on the side of the cup that is hidden from view in the picture.  Here's a picture of the cups. What do you think?
edit: They are French threaded bottom bracket cups for an Avocet/Ofmega crankset that was known for using their own taper. The French threading is the real issue, and it's well known to be a problem. Now people use ISO aka BSA, British, threading, or, less commonly, Italian threading, both of which are non compatible. Additionally reaming and rethreading to those standards is not an easy option. You would have to add material and then do that.


texts: Difference between 650c and 700c wheels?

texts: I've seen triathalon setups with either 650c or 700c wheels. What are the pros and cons behind both wheel sizes?


texts:
I've had an eternal struggle with my current bike over brake contamination. The levers and calipers are shimano ultegra r8000, so the latest and (almost) greatest.

I first noticed it when I took it to a repair shop (i no longer use) for a bleed, it came back and the front brake would squeal like crazy and at low speeds had little to no braking force. You can stop from speed but then struggle to come to a halt without using your foot.

At around 2000 miles I tried to replace the brake pads, when I took them out they were black with grime on both sets (front & back), not to mention worn down to the metal. I replaced them with the L04C sintered pads, gave the callipers a good cleaning with a towel (no chemicals) and fitted the new set.

Annoyingly all of my braking issues are back, now I probably should have cleaned the rotors, I simply used some muc off disc brake cleaner on them. I would like to know the best way to clean the rotors, I've inspected the pads and they are looking fairly black now, with plenty of tread left. I'm going to abandon these pads and fit a new set. For the rotors I plan to completely remove them from the wheels (they are center lock fitted) and try and treat them off the bike, what is the best way to fully clean them? They have plenty of wear left in them but you can see these black grooves in them, and plenty of muck on the back that I struggle to get off.

Below are images of the rotors after soaking them in disc brake cleaners, waiting and then wiping them down with a clean, microfiber towel.

Front Wheel Outside Rotor

Front Wheel Inside Rotor - note the increased dirt on this side

Looking at ways people clean their disc rotors, I've seen plenty of suggestions that I would need to burn the contaminants off the discs. Would the best approach be to remove them and use a blowtorch, should I soak them in some nasty chemicals overnight before I try to heat them? Do I try baking them in the oven?

And finally, what is the best way to prevent the brakes from becoming contaminated in the future? it's really off putting when they squeal and don't perform how I'd expect because it means I'm more reserved whilst out riding on the bike, leading to reduced time riding around outside. I commute on this bike (50 miles a week) and then ride about 50 on the weekends also, so it see's it's fair share of road use. I tend to wash it once after my big ride on saturdays and will rinse it off if it's been raining, any day that occurs (since I live in north east england, the acid rain..). I've owned disc brake bikes before and never had half the issues I've had with this, I had a cheap trek with tektro brakes and the brakes were sharper and never had any issues with contamination whatsoever (i did around 500 miles on that bike before a motorist happened).

Thanks for any and all advice :)


texts: Do Master Link pliers help with SS / fixie chain assembly?

texts:
A followup to my own question, seeking specific help.  I'd like to know if anyone is using a set of "master link pliers" (something like Park's MLP-1 MLP-1.2, or try this search) to help them with derailer-free chain work?

I have an IGH without a derailer or tensioner, so my chain line resembles a fixie / SS setup.  The chain has an ok amount of tension, but without a derailer, generating enough slack in the chain to both remove and reattach the power link isn't happening unless I remove the rear wheel.  Will a tool like the Park MLP-1 allow me to get the chain off and back on again for regular cleaning without forcing me to remove the rear wheel?

Thanks oodles!


texts: Heavy Rider (300lb+) - Please recommend a 26" tyre to avoid tyre pinch

texts: I ride a hybrid on 26" rims currently fitted with hybrid tires.  As I am 300lbs+ the rear tire runs permanently deformed/flat and the rims ride over the rubber causing tire pinch.  Can anyone recommend the tyre tube combination that I should try to obtain that will stop this happening?


texts: Shifters now that they are unavailable what can I use?

texts:
Hey all thanks in advance for help on this matter.

I have a Diamondback mountain bike that uses shifter set Shimano ST-EF51-8R and ST-EF51-L 3x8 disk brake. Son broke them on a jump, apparently snapped gear shifters off. As Shimano used same model number on two styles of these. I am looking for levers for mechanical disc brakes and 4 finger brake handle (not the 2 finger one). Of course I have been looking for over 6 months bike season is almost here and there has been absolutely nothing available to purchase to replace.

so with that said is there a compatible set that I can actually find to purchase online that will work properly no problems decent quality and price?
again ty

I am in Windsor Ontario Canada so for now going to Michigan to purchase or possibly pickup an order is out of the question. Unless shipped USPS to canada less customs hassle USPS.

Ty all with the so much help and understanding in this. I have decided to go seperate brake shifter instead of combo unit. After a lot of help and so much research v brake does work with mechanical disc brakes. It was so confusing with all the reads at the beginning. Ty for the edit to make it more sense lol I'm bad at explaining things properly. Again ty all for the very much appreciated help info and ideas.


texts: Difference between UD, 3K and 12K carbon finish?

texts: What does UD, 3K, 12K carbon mean and how do they differ?


texts: Are there smaller chain rings available for Shimano Tiagra Triple?

texts: I have a Shimano Tiagra Triple 30/39/50 and I want to find out what is compatible in terms of smaller chainrings for touring. Ideally, I’d like to be able to go down to a 26 or even a 24 for the smallest. Thinking in term of 26/36/46 or 48. This is a 4 bolt crank and it seems there’s little to no compatibility with other sets.


texts: Is it possible to repair a dent on frame?

texts:
Hi, I found today dent on down tube (13/14cm from head tube).

I have two questions:

Is it possible to repair the frame?
Is it safe to ride the bike after this

Main frame is aluminum.

The dent is on the right side of tube and it's only one damage that I found. I bought this bike a time ago, but usually I store it in dark basement and didn't seen it before.


texts:
I've seen rules and graphics online that basically say that bikers are to yield to hikers. Is this the generally accepted rule, and if so, how do you define "yield"?

Background
The areas I normally hike are wilderness areas (US) so I don't encounter cyclists very often. Yesterday I found myself on a trail that is very popular with mountain bikers and can honestly say that while hiking uphill I think that most of the cyclists barely bothered to slow down to allow me to step off the trail.

Coming down and normally being approached from behind they would slow and pass with comment like you normally would on a multi-use path.

I'm not being critical of the behavior of the cyclists - and in general I found them to be courteous - but it seemed that the expectation was that I would get out of the way, especially while I was hiking uphill.


texts: Does a long sleeve jersey add a lot of warmth for riding during the winter months, or does a short sleeve jersey suffice during the cold. I want a jersey for my commute to work and back and I can't decide if I should get a long sleeve or short sleeve. I am in Seattle, WA so the weather goes down to around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter. My commute is all down hill going there (I hit around 35 mph), and all up hill going back. So I do not want a jersey that will get me too hot on the ride back, but will keep my warm riding to work. Any tips or recommendations?


texts:
I am currently building a bike up. I have a carbon fork, with a carbon steer tube, and I have to install it using a compression plug. I picked up one of these this morning:

http://problemsolversbike.com/products/compression_plug/

I'm just wondering if anyone has done this procedure before. I'm thinking I might run into a problem getting the vertical tension right on the headset at the same time as the tension is correct on the compression plug. Also, should I be using installation paste?


texts:
I'm a long time ultra-runner turned triathlete so please bear with me. I'm looking to upgrade to Shimano Ultegra 11sp components and currently I'm running on the stock components which are Shimano 105's 11sp. I'm riding a Fuji Norcom straight which is their performance tri bike. I just want to make sure that I purchase the correct parts ahead of time so I can take them all in to get installed on my bike. I have the following parts needed on my checklist and want to make sure I have everything before making this purchase. If you see that I need anything would you please let me know? Thanks!

I wont need to buy front or rear calipers because I have trp brakes which are hidden behind the fork and the backside of the frame. I also wont need the levers because I have vision shifters on the ends of my aero bars.
I will need the Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-Speed rear derailleur
I have a choice between the GS Medium Cage Rear Derailleur 11-speed or the Short Cage Derailleur and am not sure what the differences are. Any help here?
Ultegra 6800 crankset 11-speed
Ultegra 6800 11-speed cassette
Ultegra 6800 SM-bottom bracket
Shimano 11-speed inner chainring bolt set
Shimano Ultegra 6800 outer chainring bolt & cap set

Anything else you all see? I'm purchasing from this site: http://www.trisports.com/shimano-ultegra-6800.html


texts:
I'm quite new at biking and I got my first flat yesterday. I was able to remove the inner tube and patch it, thanks to a lot of youtube videos. But today I found the tire without pressure. And I found that the patch was leaking. I replaced the tube with my spare one. But I want to know if this is normal, for a patch, to last a few hours and then unstuck itself and let air pass?

Thanks


texts: Can I replace my Shimano Nexus 7 with a Nexus 8 hub?

texts:
My 2 year old bike has a (damaged) Nexus 7 IGH, it started running heavy and I can't find out why.

Rather than getting it fixed I'm considering replacing it with a Nexus 8 hub, as they supposedly of higher quality (apart from the obvious extra gear).

Obviously I need a new 8-speed shifter to do this, but it looks to me that I can use the old roller brake assembly and the chain (very little obvious wear).

Can anyone confirm this?


texts: Norco 7.1 charger with rockshox 30 gold tk. Can I upgrade to rebas

texts:
I want to upgrade my norco 7.1 charger 2015 to use RockShox Reba RL Solo Air.

1) is this better fork than mine

2) Does it accept tokens

3) Is there limit as to how long a fork I can put on the bike
I assume it would alter the head angle but what effect would that have on my bike


texts: Can I replace my 700C x 38mm tyres for 700Cx23mm or 25 ones?

texts: what would be my possibilities if I cant?


texts: Does (square-taper) BB spindle length affect Q factor?

texts:
I am having knee and ankle trouble on my commuting bike (1993 Specialized mtb) and this has a 73mm BB with a spindle length I haven't measured but there is space between crankarm and frame.

I wanted to lower the Q factor and thinking that lowering the spindle length will be the easiest way - but does it actually affect the Q factor? As the cranks sit at the widest point which isn't necessarily related to the overall length.


texts: What's the checklist when buying a second-hand frame?

texts:
I am buying a second hand frame (Dawes 201 hybrid) build up (first time doing that, so exciting).

I'm paying cash on collection, so can back out if anything looks wrong. What should I look for on the frame to make sure it's up to scratch?.


texts: What does 'tubeless ready' wheelset actually mean

texts:
I know this may sound daft or simple, but can someone tell me what is meant by 'The wheelset is tubeless ready' on an bike advert. I have asked in a shop and had 2 answers ranging from 40 pounds to 300 pounds to change the tyres to tubeless. Surely if the advert say's tubeless ready it means a simple and inexpensive conversion to make you tyres tubeless.

Any help is much appreciated.

The advert states' Answer Atac AM, 15x110mm/12x148mm, Tubeless Ready'


texts: Interupter brake lever compatible with hydraulic mechanical disk brakes?

texts: I have recently Installed JuinTech R1 Hydraulic mechanical pull disk brakes to my road bike. I would like to add some cyclo top or interrupter brake levers. Does anybody have any experience with this? Any issues?


texts: Can I add a 11-40 XT or XTR rear cog to a road bike with Di2?

texts:
I want to build up a road bike for the Baa Baa Bikepack and want some more large toothed gears. I want to run Di2 with a compact front derailleur and largest toothed cog possible. Ultegra CS-6800 is 11-32, but I'd like to run  XT CS-M8000 (11-40) or XTR CS-M9000. Is this possible on a road bike?

Cheers,

Dave


texts: What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider?

texts:
I'm a commuter; I mostly ride around the city to get to work, go shopping, visit friends, and stop by the pub. I have basic cycling skills down; proper mounting and dismounting, signaling turns, standing on my pedals to sprint up short hills, and so on. But I've seen some more advanced skills and tricks that I don't know how to do, such as bunny hops, track stands, and the like.

What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider, and how can I learn to do them? I'm interesting in things that are useful, not just showy, and interested in city riding, not mountain biking. For instance, learning to bunny hop might be useful for that one point where the curb cut to get back on the bike trail is half a block down from where the trail actually is.

For each trick or skill, describe it and how it's useful in the city, any limitations it might have (can only be done on a fixie or a mountain bike with front shocks, or should only be done when you have plenty of clearance on both sides, etc), and describe how to learn it, either directly in the answer or by referring to a good resource on learning it elsewhere.


texts: Where to get replacement bolt for rod brakes

texts:
Well, I did it again: While working on a bike with rod brakes I lost the bolt which connects the two "actuating" rods to each other (I have no idea what these parts are even called; The measuring tape is in centimeters):

Here are the nuts securing the thing:

Where on Earth can I get something like this?-- is this even possible, or did I just ruin my last bike purchase in a record two weeks?


texts:
I'm trying to open the freewheel from an old bike that I have, but I can't find how. I even searched for tutorials on the Internet but I can't find one that looks like mine (please see picture).

And I have an old tool that looks like a fit tool (see picture below), but the inner diameter is smaller than the outer diameter of that central part of the freewheel,  therefore I can't put it in.

I also found this tool (see picture below) like it would fit in there but I don't have it yet.

Can anyone help with this? Which tool do I need for this and, more Important, is it possible to open it with a hammer and a screwdriver?  And if so, which part should I try to open, the middle black cylinder or the yellow toothed one?

Thank you!

EDIT:
Mine looks very similar to this:

Re-iterate the question. Do I need to open the cylinder with the two circular holes or the inner one with the two notches, in order to detach the freewheel?


texts: Which way does the seat clamp go on the post?

texts:
I have one of the older style seat clamps, the one with the bolt all the way through it with two male ends that tighten on either side. I'm not sure if the bolt side goes to the front of the post or the back of the post, or if it makes a difference. I have it to the front right now because it makes the seat closer to the bars and shortens the cockpit nicely, but looking at my friends bike, it seems like it may go the other way, and I don't want to bend or break anything.

Which way is the seat clamp supposed to go, to the front or the back? Does it make a difference?

Here is a picture of the clamp:


texts:
I recently constructed my own windshield for my bicycle using Lexan and wood. It works great but it is hand-made thing and I might be willing to buy a premade one that is curved (mine has a 90 degree angle).

But is there a good one available?


texts:
Does this crack look cosmetic or structural to you? It's tiny hairline thick.
UPDATE: I took the bike to trek store and their technician looked at it (I think he simply did tap test) and said he beleives it is only paint crack.


texts: What's the efficiency of hub gears compared to derailleurs? I know that hub gears are not as efficient. Apart from being heavier, how much will I lose in performance if I use hub gears?


texts: Bike fit: Adjusting stem angle vs. height

texts:
I'm playing with my fit a bit as I have gotten much more flexible since I had a bike fit 2 years ago (+1 to stretching and foam rolling.)

As I'm experimenting with drop I am wondering if it makes more sense to adjust my stem angle going from 0 degree shim to -2 degree or removing the last spacer (~5mm) I have below the stem to adjust the overall stem height(SLAMMED!) Is there traditionally an order of operations for these types of adjustments?

Should I consider going for a longer stem at a certain point?

Thanks for the help and I realize it might be time to get a new fit but figured I play around with it a bit first.


texts:
I have an old steel frame road bike, dating from 1980.  Its not rare or special, but its very like the one I rode to high school in the late 80s.

Problem: There are no bottle cage mounts, so my solution is to drill 4 holes and fit rivnuts to suit the standard bottle mounts.  Rivnuts are also known as nutserts, and look like this:

There's a special rivet tool that compresses the fitting while preserving the thread.  I have one on order, and it looks like this.

So other than drilling the bare minimum diameter holes in the frame, what else do I need to consider?

paint or treat the raw steel edges of the drilled hole?
locate holes properly on the centerline or fractionally left, away from the drivetrain?
use mixed-epoxy on the insert as an insertion lube plus it will be a waterproofing layer when in use
my nutserts are smoothbore, not ribbed as per the example - would this matter?


texts: Will hydraulic brakes work with vertical underseat recumbent handlebars?

texts: I have this type of recumbent. I want to upgrade to hydraulic brakes, but every bike shop warns me about the issues that will come from attaching the brake levers in a vertical position. They say that it will catch air very quickly. Do I  have any options? Maybe there is special brakes for this type of situation?


texts: Would using compressionless brake housing for derailleur be a problem?

texts:
... since derailleur cables are a smaller diameter? Would they be too loose in the bigger housing?

The housing might also not fit the shifter hole.

Any thoughts on this?

The 'why' behind the question:

The reason I'm asking is because I'm replacing the brake line (housing and cable) for my back v-brake, and understanding the difference between a brake housing and a derailleur housing, I feel like a compressionless brake housing could work as both.

The cable set (housing and cable) I like for the job is very long. Considering that, and the fact that my front derailleur housing could use a replacement as well, I was wondering if I could use the housing for both (as that would be the most economical solution as well).

Edit

Combine the accepted answer and the comments below, and you have an excellent answer to the question(s) above.

Kudos @DanielRHicks, @NathanKnutson and @ChrisH!


texts:
I have a 2011 Commencal Supreme DHV3 Team edition and I need to replace the bottom bracket. The problem is that I am confused about what the correct model to buy is.

The tech book for the bike states:

BOTTOM BRACKET WIDTH Type Cranks 83mm Press Fit Shimano BB92

However, doing some online googling I found this thread where the poster has been told that he should buy either

Shimano BB71 MTB Press Fit Bottom Bracket Size - 89.5/92mm
Shimano BB91 Road Press Fit Bottom Bracket Size - 86mm

This page states that BB91 and BB92 are identical, however this doesn't seem to be the case to me as the BB92 has a shell width of 91.5mm

I'm puzzled as they have different BB numbers and different widths too (the BB92 has a shell width of 91.5mm). I would naturally just choose the BB92 from the Commencal tech book, but can't find any Shimano BB92s for sale in the UK.

Which model do I go for? Will a BB71 do?

Unfortunately I am not in a situation where I can look at my existing bottom bracket as it has transpired that an incorrect BB was fitted to my frame when I had it serviced about 6 months ago, and I am no longer in the same country...


texts: Minimum space between square taper crank and bottom bracket

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I upgraded to a new square taper crankset on a single-speed drivetrain and now the gap between my crank and the bottom bracket is bigger. That's because the cranks taper shape is different from the one I had before and I haven't changed the bottom bracket. This (along with a different shape of the crank) made the Q-factor bigger. I wanted to reduce it, so I ordered a new bottom bracket with a shorter spindle. I checked the measurement already and it's going to be all good with chainstay clearance. The question is:

How close can a square taper crank be to the bottom bracket? How small can the gap in the picture be?


texts: SPD SL Cleat Cover, are they supposed to be attached all the time or removed on rides?

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I've always assumed you put them once and forget it, and still clip in with them, but then I read somewhere that Speedplay covers needs to be re-attached when you're walking. Is Shimano the same?

If yes, is there any cleat covers that you can always use without constant removal?


texts: Ball bearings only on one side, and smashed "ring"?

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I have been given a bike for free, as the rear wheel was very wobbly.

I'm been learning how to take things apart, and investigated the axle - it's not bent.

The ball bearings, however, were a surprise. There were 9 on one side (the side of gears) and none on the other side. Those 9 balls were kind of loose (I think 10 could fit well), and there was a smashed up steel ring in there.

I'm not sure if that's something "useful" (eg, reduces friction?), or if it's the "dust cover" that got pushed in and smashed thinner. I found it weird that only that side lacked a steel dust cover.

Could you help me understand if this was just a bad maintenance job (the rear wheel is clearly newer than the front one) or if it makes sense to have ball bearings only on one side?


texts: cannondale cadd10 105 crankset replacement

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I had a terrible crash on my Cannondale CADD10 105 (11spd) and wrecked the crankset (the bigger ring bent). It is FSA Gossamer Pro, BB30, 52/36 from the website. Is there an identical one available for replacement? I couldn't find any on Amazon or online store.

And what does BB30 mean?

Thanks


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I'm new. I'm 26, from the UK and until last year I'd never cycled more than 10 miles before. Then in September I cycled 2700 miles from Maine to Florida. It was great.

I've just bought a Dawes Galaxy, I believe made in about 1997. It's got a Shimano RSX rear derailleur, 7 speed, indexed shifters. Three cogs on the front with friction shifting. Shifters are on the down tube.

My plan is to buy some Shimano brifters. I was hoping to upgrade the down tube shifter into the integrated brake shifter. Could anyone give me advice on which Shimano sets would be compatible? I imagine any Shimano 3x7 would work. Is that correct?

Would these work?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-ST-3300-Sora-7-Speed-STI-Lever-/291470495079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43dcfecd67
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Shimano-Sora-ST-3300-7-7-Speed-Right-Hand-Side-STI-Shifter-Brake-Lever-/281698654774?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41968c5a36

Other equipment I believe I'll need is: cable housing, wire, crimp tool, end caps, bar tape, cable tensioners ... What do I put in place of the current shifters, some sort of cable stop?

Anything else I would need? Anything else I need to consider?


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Almost every question Bicycles.SE about damaged carbon frames seems to get the same answer: "the frame isn't safe anymore."

How strong of a hit is needed to break a carbon frame? There are little stones that get thrown up by the wheels and hit the bottom of the frame, from time to time the bike falls down, etc.


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Which rim tape should i use for 700x28 tires? I can only find 700x17 or 700x14...

I just measured my 26" and the (outside) base of the rim is 24mm... and i used rim tape that is 20mm wide... it fitted fine.

Now for my 700 tire, the base of the rim measures some 23mm... almost the same as the 26"...  yet the tape will be 3mm short. will that make any difference?

Also, would i be able to use the 26" tape on the 700?


texts: What modern wheel and tire size could be replaced from 32-630 ( 27 x 1 ¼ ) wheels

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Referring from the question, specifically, what is the closest modern wheel size for my old 32-630 ( 27 x 1 ¼ ) wheels. It's hard to find rims and tires for that size now a days. I'm looking for the closest size in terms of wheel diameter. It should not go any bigger but close to exact size or smaller.
I'm also converting my bike with disc brake, so rim size won't be any issue with rim brakes.

I have read this guide and mostly I found closest to mine is the 700C or 622mm ISO version for road bikes.

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/285/bicycle-tyre-dimensions/


texts: How long should MTB disc brake pads last?

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I'm fairly new to mountain biking and I was able to put in around 900 miles on my first set of brake pads on my Giant Anthem X2. At that point they started grinding metal on metal. I went and bought new Shimano pads (I have Shimano brakes) and after only 100 or so miles one of the front ones has already worn out.

The last time I rode the bike was in rain and mud so I'm not sure if that contributed to it.

How long do the brake pads typically last? Is there something else going on?


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What is the best way to lubricate gear and brake cables in their tubular housings? Up until now, I've used CRC/WD-40 with an extension tube and attempted to squirt the lubricant into the tube housings. However, I suspect that this is fairly ineffective because 1. WD-40 is not a great lubricant (judging by the other Q+A on this site), and 2. the lubrication doesn't travel very far into the tubes.

So what is a good way of doing this?


texts: How do I know if I can replace the 27 inch wheels with 700c wheels on my bike?

texts: I recently purchased an 80's Japanese bike off craigslist called "Jupiter King." It has 27 inch tires but I want to switch to 700c for greater wheel/tire selection. I specifically want some nice yellow wheels with yellow rim. Help? I am quite a noob with bikes. Thanks for any help/advice.


texts: What should I consider when choosing a bike frame?

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In thinking about building a road bike from scratch, what should I consider when choosing a frame?

I'll be building from all new components and plan on just doing day rides of a few hours a piece, but perhaps few days touring.  I'm not really interested in racing at all—that's what cars are for :-)


texts: Very narrow gap between pad and brake rotor

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I have just retired my Tektro brakes (13 years of service) and replaced with a pair of cheap Shimano MT200.
I have a problem with extremely narrow gap between the disk and pads. The gap is so narrow that it makes it near impossible to adjust brakes for no rubbing. Also any amount of dirt that gets on the disk during winter ride is guaranteed to cause a lot of noise.
Brakes don't appear to be overbled. Pistons can be pushed all the way back into the caliper when pads are removed. Also lever freestroke distance appears to be usual. For contrast I compare this to another bike that has SRAM brakes on it. Lever travel is about the same but SRAM brakes have about 3x times as much of a gap between pads. It appears that for the same amount of lever travel SRAM calipers advance/retract 3x distance of Shimanos... This cannot be right.
It is difficult to take a picture of but here is a sketch:

What I have tried and checked so far:
Wheel off + pads off + push the pistons all the way back.
Makes no difference. Calipers can be pushed all the way in without a proble, Leveler bottoms out. After doing this, the bite point is lost and it takes a few pumps of the lever to let the calipers adjust and "find their place". After calipers are in place, the problem is back - gap is too narrow.
Re-bleed
I am no stranger to bleeding brakes. Done everything by the books. But for this particular subject it is important that I bled the brakes with pistons fully pushed back and largest bleed block (that fits) in place. This should make sure that the system is not overbled... I obviously don't pressurise the system.
No improvement
Rotor thickness
My rotors are original from Tektro and I thought that maybe rotor thickness is different between Tektro and Shimano, but it does not appear so. Rotors measure 1.8 mm with a digital caliper...
Caliper tilt (pad not parallel to disc that makes visual gap smaller)
Nothing to say here, calipers are mounted straight. I readjusted them a few times.
Running out of ideas here. Any advice appreciated.
UPDATE 2021-05-10
About 2000 km later I can confirm that the correct answer was "just ride it". The problem was there for a while but eventually went away (around 1000km mark.


texts: How to create a bicycle that rolls backwards when you pedal forward?

texts: This may seem like a crazy question, but I am currently trying to design a kinetic machine where pilots are facing away from the direction of motion, adding whimsy and curiosity. As someone who doesn’t have a lot of experience with redesigning bicycles, I am struggling with coming up with a functional design where the gears of the bicycle could still be changed. The first idea I had was to arrange the chain in a figure eight shape, making the back wheel of the bike turn backwards while still pedalling forward. Although I haven’t prototyped this design, something tells me that having the chain cross like that would create too much resistance to reliably change gears. Another idea is to add an extra gear between the pedals and the chain, changing the direction the chain is going entirely. However, I’m not sure if the size of said gear would interfere with gear ratios on the bike? If anyone is interested in helping me out, I would greatly appreciate it!


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The new Cycle Superhighway 3 goes through Hyde Park, London,UK on West Carriage Drive.
It contains a number of points at which pedestrians are evidently intended to cross, as the roadway and cycleway is raised.
Unfortunately, this is the best picture I have of one which was taken while CS3 was under construction: the raised segment of the crossing continues into the cycle lane.

However, I have noticed on my commutes that very few cyclists or pedestrians seem to know who has the priority at these crossings. They are not laid out like zebra crossings, as exist on some cycle lanes in london, which had led me to believe that the cyclists had priority, and the raised sections were advisory in nature to pedestrians, just like crossing islands are usually when not marked by a zebra crossing.
The highway code seems to me to be silent on the issue: it only mentions specific types of marked crossings, rather than generic raised crossings with no markings.
Who has the priority here?
As requested by one of the comments, this is what one of these looks like:

Both from West Carriage Drive in Hyde Park
https://maps.app.goo.gl/L3J2urZCehHJj1Uj8


texts: My handlebar and My front tube are no longer one. Might I have died?

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So, I have this problem [problem].

This happened today while I was putting it in a car to store overnight, but clearly I have to fix this.

Could someone please tell me: what exactly qent wrong here, and how likely would this have been to kill me?

Just in case it is hard to see, this is my handlebars coming off of my stem....


texts: Info for replacing a shift cable housing

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I have a Raleigh MT 200 - 1994. I lost the segment of the housing for the cable of the rear derailleur (Shimano STX) that goes to the shifter, see red in the image 1.

I would likely purchase a replacement online. I want to know what should I look for in the spec, to make sure that I am buying the right thing.

What I found in the segment that goes to the derailleur (which is similar to the segment that goes to the front shifter):

Legend in the housing: Shimano SIS SP, image 4.
Outer diameter: 5mm, measured with caliper.
Two different metallic ferrules in the ends, images 2-4. The grooved ferrule goes to the shifter. These look very much like types A and B in https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repair-tech-info/bikeman-tech-info/1641-cables-a-housing
Length: about 200mm.

So, I have several specific questions:

Is there anything else I should look for?
Will an SP40 work (like http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-XTR-XT-SLX-Shifter-Cable-Housing-SIS-SP40-/301329907340)?
Or an SP41?
Is it mandatory that the two ferrules are different, of types A and B respectively? (I do not know the difference among them).
What does "sealed" mean (like in http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-180mm-SIS-SP-Sealed-Cable-Housing-New-w-black-ferrules/222309191697)


texts: Can I fix my Park Tool CCP-22 - the round head came off?

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At some point I somehow managed to break my crank puller. The round head that pushes against the axle has come off.

Can I get a replacement handle / fix it myself or do I just need to buy a new tool?


texts: Mechanical disc brake calipers: Removing pads from top side vs bottom side

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Regarding mechanical disc brakes, is it preferable to have a caliper with pads removable from the top side? Shimano BR-RS305-F calipers use pads removable from the top; Shimano BR-R317 uses pads removable from the bottom side. I'm not certain about Avid BB7 calipers; they look like the pads are removable from the bottom but the pad spring is inserted from the top side. I'm also considering the TRP Spyre mechanical caliper but can't tell how pads are inserted/removed. Any wisdom here? Am I wasting my time? Thanks to all.

Swifty, you're right on. I neglected to say I'm riding an ebike with a Rohloff hub, and as such, removing and re-installing the rear wheel is harder than a standard bike; that's why caliper design is important to me. Anyway, as far as I can tell, the Avid BB7, the TRP Spyre, and the Shimano BR-RS317 calipers all load from the bottom. The Shimano BR-R305 loads from the top to the best of my observations.


texts: Is it possible to increase travel on Cannondale Scalpel?

texts: I have a 2014 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2. It's an amazing XC race bike but some courses are so gnarly that I'd love to have a bit more trail. The head tube angle is so steep. I would like to make it just a bit slacker without having to buy the new 2017 model. Is there any way to do this? I am new to biking and bike mechanics so I hope I got all the terminology correct.


texts: Shimano uses abbreviations in their model numbers. For example, the Shimano Deore Hollowtech II MTB Crankset 3x10-speed has model number FC-M6000-3. Is there a table somewhere that defines all the abbreviations?


texts: Are parallel v-brakes fixed distance? [Avid Arch Rival 50]

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OK, this is naive question, but I have to be 200% sure :-)

If you compare the regular v-brake against parallel v-brakes as Avid Arch Rival 50:

the one thing which is always ignored is the way you can change the distance between pads. In the regular v-brakes you change the distance with the cable, more loose means more distance between pads.

But with parallel v-brake the distance is fixed, so loosening the cable does not change a thing, it just adds a dead cable section.

This influences the pads and the wheel rim you can select -- more fat pads or slightly wider rim and you have a problem.

The question is -- am I right with the fixed distance in such v-brakes?

UPDATE: fixed means -- there is some distance, predefined, and you can narrow it, but you cannot increase it. Let's say you are on the ride and you hit something hard with wheel. The wheel needs trueing. With regular v-brakes you just loose the cable to get home. With parallel v-brakes loosening cable does not help.

Photo comes from Avid Arch Rival 50 Review at GearReview


texts: Exchange front wheel with rear wheel (Matrix 750) on Trek 4500 mountain bike?

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My rear wheel has been showing around the rim some wear on one side. Perhaps something to do with my braking.

I was wondering if I can exchange the front wheel with the rear one (in other words, can the gear sprockets be uninstalled and put on the other wheel)? My bicycle is a Trek 4500 (and the wheels say Matrix 750 on them).

If the above is not plausible then can the rear wheel be flipped (that is, the side be changed), again with the gear sprockets being replaced and placed appropriately?


texts: Aluminium "white rust" on roadbike. How bad is my situation?

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After some research I did not find similar photos/examples to mine so decided to ask.
Recently I have bought used aluminum road bike. I did check all other parts and they are in good condition, but forgot to flip it and when I did I found this:

So my questions are:

How bad is this?
Can I stop it from spreading?


texts: Tube patches: dedicated ones or recycling old tubes?

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Before I discovered puncture less tires, I had often to patch my inner tubes.

I initially bought dedicated patches (which invariantly were too big or too stiff), then decided to try cutting old tubes to shape, and using them as patches after washing away the white powder they had on the inside and giving both the tube and the patch a light scratching with sandpaper.

I find reused tube to be more easily workable, while being thinner and more similar to the tube they are going to patch.

Is any of the two to be preferred?


texts: The difference between thin width of tyre and thick tyre width

texts: According to physics doesn't it say that lesser the are greater to force or grip. So why wheelies performed on tyres with greater thickness?


texts: How do I make Shimano SPD cleat lock into pedal more securely?

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I bought Shimano SPD pedals and shoes for MTB. They’re great for uphill and straight gnarly sections.
There is one problem - when I’m clipped in I have a ton of movement.  I have tightened the spring but there is lots of movement so how do I get a tighter feel?


texts: new cyclist here. I've recently started riding and have worked my way up to a 50K in 2 hours 24 minutes, averaging 21 km/h. I noticed that I really wasn't able to carry my speed through climbs and would like to know how to improve. On flat ground I can go 23-24 km/h but am usually going at a slow jog type pace on any type of hill. Thanks for the help.


texts: Can 26 x 1.5 inner tube fit 26 x 2.0 tire?

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I bought it as pedalheaven (my local bike shop) was closed and as I have a race tomorrow.

I will return it if doesn’t fit.


texts: Shimano STEPS E8000 battery won't charge

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I have a STEPS E8000 bike and wanted to make some improvements, like possibility to charge from any kind of CC/CV charger (even using solar panels when grid is not available) and to charge it to 41v to improve cycle life but things went wrong after first brief charge.

I charged(CC/CV) just a little from 40.3v to 40.6v when i observed that the battery level indicator is not working anymore.

The battery doesn't want to start at all and the Shimano charger is just blinking when connected, meaning some kind of error.

Now i have 2 options: buy a new battery or find some Shimano service but i have no ideea if Shimano fixes a battery without warranty.

The second problem is that im not sure if a new battery will work wihout pairing/programming.

Any thoughts why the battery(or BMS) got bricked when charging the cells directly and will a new battery work (plug'n'play)?


texts: New innertube won't inflate when in the tyre

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I'm replacing my inner tube after getting a flat. When I inflate the tyre with the new tube in, it feels soft- even though the pump says the pressure is 100PSI.

The tube inflates and holds its shape when I inflate it on its own (outside of the wheel). I'm convinced I'm making some fundamental error but cannot figure it out.

Details:

Old tube: Schrader 700X28-38C Specialized (came with the bike)

New tube: Schrader 700X28-45C Kenda "kwick-seal" and says e-ready. (only one I could find online because of lockdown).

The new tube valve is shorter than the old one. It also appears to leak a bit of fluid when I deflate and doesn't deflate easily when I push the pin. I'm using a track pump which I have tried on my girlfriend's bike and seems OK.

Any suggestions would be great as all my local bike shops are closed because of COVID.


texts: Can a thicker chain cause it to slide/jump under pressure?

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I recently changed my chain on my roadbike. It's a roadbike made to a single speed.

Anyways, the new chain is a bit thicker than normal. I applied the same number of chain links to the new chain. After switching the chain, the chain jumps/slides under pressure. A problem I had before because the chain wasn't tight enough.

This time i can't figure out why the chain jumps. It looks tight enough. Could it be the width of the chain?


texts: Replacing 30 yr old tires; the new ones don't fit

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I pulled an old touring bike (Ross circa 1980) out of the basement and bought new tires for it. Both the old tires and the new tires are labeled 27 x 1 1/4, but the new tires are larger than the old. They fit into the rim fine, the inner diameter of the tire is correct. But the new outer diameter is greater, and the new tire rubs against the fenders and cannot spin freely. The new tire also seems wider than the old but I didn't measure and am not certain.

My question is, since the inner diameter of the new tire is correct with the 27, would I be able switch to a smaller size to accommodate the fender, or am I stuck with what I have? The new tires I bought are cheapo Bontrager touring tires ( http://bontrager.com/model/08860 ) - if I bought another brand or style in the same size, would that help?


texts: Advice for servicing a Scott Sub 10 [8 speed Alfine hub gear]

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I purchased a Scott Sub 10 last year and use it almost every day for commuting doing around 12 miles a day.

I'd say I've done around 2000 miles since purchasing it last Summer.

I am going to take it in to get serviced soon as I feel the wheels need to be straightened and other things aught to get looked at.... as sometimes the gear (Shimano Alfine, 8 spd IGH) slips when I put it into 8th gear.

I was surprised the bike didn't come with much in the way of instructions about servicing the hub since it came with guides for most of the other components.

I went to one bike shop and they quoted £140 for the hub to get serviced, which seemed a bit excessive until I went and looked at how much the official Shimano servicing kit costs alone.

I want to service this myself as I think it'll be a good lesson to learn.

So my questions are:

Does anyone have any experience of advice for doing this?
What tools will I require?
What lubrication is recommended?
Are there any guides?


texts: Can someone help I don't know brand of bike mine is?

texts: Hi I don't now what kind of bike or logo please help thank you.


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I am interested in picking up this frame for a rebuild project. I can't find info on which year this is or what model. Most models seem to have a black rear triangle, presumably carbon.

After sleuthing online, I can't find any that have the website printed on the rear triangle and the specific branding. The forks and stem are obviously a placeholder from another bike. But is the frame okay? It's not a repaint is it? Or, worse, a crappy frame painted and with stickers? What would you estimate the worth is?


texts: I think requirements are reusable, simple, small-size and things-to-easily-to-carry. There are exotic answers with chain clearers and other things that do not qualify to me simple. Perhaps, the Sheldown-Brown's shake is closest, here, to clean chains and then lube -- you can get bottles everywhere and alkali/white-spirit-whatever available to the bottle. But there may be more solutions. How do you maintain chains during touring? (open question: no season specified, etc)


texts: How can I increase the highest gear ratio?

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I am looking for some higher cog front gears for an old bike I am considering. I've been away from it for some time and don't know the current number of cogs on the front ring, but I am looking to maybe put a really large ring on it. I just find that there are times I need one or two more gears to shift up to. I don't always ride in the highest gear, but I have way too much in the lower range.

Is it possible to switch to a larger front ring to boost my higher end range?


texts: How can I run a dynamo wire from my front hub to my dynamo light?

texts: I have a Pashley Roadster Sovereign, and wanted to upgrade the dynamo driven headlight. Sadly, I didn't successfully use the old wire to pull the new wire through the front fork, and now I need to fish a wire through the fork without the aid of something to pull it through. Any tips for accomplishing this? When I try to fish the wire down the fork, it catches on something and I've never successfully located the end of the wire through the vent hole.


texts: Campagnolo Athena 9 speed compatibility?

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I own some NOS shifters, Campy Athena 9 speed, from 1998 i guess.
do you guys know if I can use it with any campagnolo front/rear derailleur?
how do I know what is compatible?


texts:
I've ridden 90 KM (and at reasonable speeds - 30+ KM/h) without issues, but rode my first Gran Fondo (140 KM) and experienced various spasms while riding.  There were aid stations with food so I ate bananas - seemed to help, but the distance between stations was ~40 KM so I'd still get spasms...  The spasms were mostly quad/back of the leg - I only got a calf one once and it was much more brief than the others.

Can anyone shed light on why I experienced these, and what I can do to prevent it in the future?  My hamstrings have always been short/tight, takes a while in Yoga/etc for them to loosen up.  The seat angle was tipped a little more back than I usually ride, didn't seem like a seat height issue...


texts: Chain Splitter vs. Chain Tool vs. Chain Breaker

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What is the difference between a Chain Splitter and a Chain Tool and a Chain Breaker?

Are they the same thing?


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I'm working on adjusting my front derailleur; Shimano 105 group set 5700 series.  On reading on the net and also watching a couple of online youtube videos there is comments about the barrel adjustment used to either tighten or loosen the cable to ensure that indexing occurs.

Now what I'm confused with is that the notes often refer to increasing the wire tension via a counter-clockwise turn.  The question is counter clockwise relative to facing which way ?  For an inline barrel adjuster depending if i'm looking down from the shifter on the handle bars, or looking up from the cable end of the derailleur the direction is different.

Is there an easy way to know which way to turn ?


texts: after heavy rain or washing, which parts of the bike to re-lube and with what?

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Good afternoon,

I'm a relatively new cyclist and I've been caught out in a heavy rain a few times recently.  After this, or if I was to wash my bike thoroughly, I'm not sure which parts of the bike to re-lube and what lube to use.

Obviously I should clean and re-lube the chain, but what about everything else?  For example in this video:

at 7:30 the presenter, after re-lubing the chain, shoots the front and rear derailleurs and adjacent parts with WD-40.  This seems backward to me, being that WD-40 is also a solvent I would have figured to clean the chain first, then shoot the front and rear derailleurs and adjacent parts with WD-40, then re-lube the chain with chain lube.

I've checked various other YouTube videos and websites, many suggest similar to above, but others recommend to re-lube each pivot point of the front and rear mech parts individually with chain lube.

Also, in the above video the presenter shoots the metal brake parts with WD-40.  This seems to make sense with rim brakes, but I've recently changed to a bike with disc brakes (cable, not hydraulic) and I'm apprehensive about spraying WD-40 or anything else near the relatively small and delicate brake pad friction material surfaces.

Can anybody suggest a recommended re-lubing procedure after heavy rain or a wash (pertaining to brake parts, please clarify advice for rim vs. disk brakes), thanks!

Edit: somebody linked this: Post Rain Ride Wipedown
which contains similar advice but does not state clearly which front or rear mech parts or brake parts to lube after a heavy rain and with what type of lubricant.


texts: Compatible front mech replacement for Shimano STX RC FD-MC36

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I have an old 2000 Marin Riftzone, indexed gears, 3 rings at the front. The front mech (shimano stx rc) is seized and I want to get the cheapest solution to make it functional again. It doesn't do any offroading any more and I just want to make it functional so someone else can use it.

There seem to be so many options with 2nd hand front mechs on ebay I am lost as to what I need to look at to make sure a new one is compatible (have already accidently bought one with too small a clamp)

Can anyone help me understand  what models are likely to work? Or what to look for.

Current mech is:

bottom pull - do I still need a bottom pull or will top work also?
34.9 mm diameter - obviously need to have this.
3 rings - how do I identify 3 ring mechs? Is there a code in the names or do I just need to look at specs?

Are there any other things I need to keep an eye on?  I don't understand the FD-MC36 bit of the mech model, is this important?


texts: Replaced faulty Shimano twist shifter but front derailleur still won't catch 3rd

texts:
I have one of the ubiquitous Wal-Mart-sourced Chinese Kent bikes, badged as a "GMC Denali."  It came with the Shimano RS41 3x7 twist shifters.

The front shifter got to where it would not physically move all the way into "1," such that if I set up the front derailleur I could catch 1 and 2 but not 3 (I presume the shifter broke inside and a loose piece was jamming it - it wouldn't move all the way to 1 even if the cable were disconnected at the other end). Earlier tonight I replaced both shifters and cables with a brand new RS45 set (I was told by the vendor that this would be a straight replacement) and whereas I was able to set up the rear perfectly, in the front I still couldn't quite catch 3.  It appears as though the front derailleur simply will not mechanically move far enough outward to move the chain to the largest sprocket, even with the high limit screw adjusted all the way out.  I can play with the barrel adjuster at the shifter all I want to get it to where the shifter can be forced into clicking into 3 with the cable as tight as a guitar string, but the derailleur simply isn't going to go any further (and yes, it is high enough that it is clearing all the front sprockets).

Might this derailleur have worn out its pivot(s) such that its range of movement is reduced, or do I need to adjust the low limit screw until it almost won't go into 1 anymore and try again?  I'm perfectly willing to replace the clamp-on derailleur if it's just gone south, but I sure don't want to if I'm just missing an adjustment nuance.

Thanks!


texts:
The bottle cage bolts on my bike (carbon frame) tend to unscrew easily. Instead of tightening harder (I stopped at ~2Nm), which could damage the bosses in the frame, I am thinking of using threadlock on the bolts. It should be safe as the bosses are made of metal and it's not going directly on carbon. The question is: which threadlock is best suitable for this kind of job?

I have some blue one (Loctite 243), but if purple (Loctite 222) is better, I am willing to buy some.


texts: how to translate MTB wheel specifications?

texts:
I am looking for a pair of wheels for a MTB build project, but I am lost when I read the specifications for wheel sets.

What I am looking for is a pair of wheels with a 9mm rear axle diameter and a 15mm front axle diameter.

But how do I know if a pair with quick releases will fit when it says nothing about the axle diameter?

Example "Available with 9mm or 15mm front axle" so? What is the rear axle diameter?

I am not asking what kind of wheelsmyou like or which you think I should and shouldn't buy. I need help understanding the specifications from the manufacures.


texts: Uneven Chain Ring Wear, or Manufactured This Way?

texts:
Bike - Trek DS 8.6 (2016) hybrid. Purchased August 2016

Chain set / chain rings - FSA Dynadrive 48/36/26

Shimano Deore front and rear derailleurs

Chain - KMC

Bike usage - roughly 600 miles since purchased, road and bike trails, but not off road / trail; Some hill work (but generally in small chainring for those), and really only using large chain ring when on flat roads. Novice rider, so not huge power output, and rides average 80-85 cadence rpm, topping out 100-105 very occasionally. Rides are generally between 10-20 miles

Edit re "cross-chaining" - when using the large chainring I would tend to be using smaller cogs of the rear cassette, to avoid cross-chaining

Please take a look at the picture - hopefully you will see what appears to be different shaped teeth on the front large chain ring. Some appear quite pointy, others rounded, and two or three almost flat, as if the apex has been removed.

My question(s) - is this excessive wear and if so, caused by some fault in the drive train? Or has the chain ring been manufactured with these differences in the teeth? If there is a likely fault I can go back to LBS, but what are the likely causes? If deliberately manufactured that way, why?


texts: Mountain bike, chain skips when force applied from stop or going uphill.

texts:
I am trying to diagnose my issue. I commute to work about 14 miles round trip per day 4 or 5 days a week. I have some hills and I also cross a 2 mile farm via dirt road. I have put hundreds of miles on it since a tune up.

Lately from a stop at a light,  when I apply pressure to start off the chain will skip. It simply pops off the rear derailleur  and will not let me move forward. I am not a bike mechanic but I can learn quick. I am not sure how to diagnose the problem or even fix it. I can make this issue happen very easily by starting from a slow or stopped and pushing hard or riding up and pushing down on the pedal. The problem does not occur if I push lightly and start off as softly as I can. I can give more information if required.


texts: Rear wheel resistance and vibrations are driving me crazy

texts:
I've recently purchased a new wheel set for my track bike. It's a Phil Wood High Flange laced to H + Son Archetype.

I've been traveling a bit and haven't really ridden them very long. I immediately set them up on my bike and rode them the following day on a 40 mile ride. Halfway through through my ride I started feeling a bit of resistance, as if someone was holding me back, causing me to use use more energy and slowing me down.

I pulled off, checked chain tension, alignment and wheel rub (no brake rub because I ride brakeless) but everything was fine. I've read on here of similar scenarios from other riders however, many said they were going a particular speed. Somewhere between 20-30mph. Mine is on and off, the resistance does pick up on elevated speeds but for the most part it holds me back.

Today I went for a ride, looked over the rear wheel especially and again, everything checked out totally fine. Though, it went straight into the same issues as before. Only on my way home my rear wheel actually somehow loosened and had major wheel rub. I pulled over and realigned the wheel and tightened. It didn't happen again.

If anyone can give some suggestions or opinions I'll really appreciate it. Cheers


texts:
I've had this bicycle since 1996. I got it as payment from a client i used to have. I love the frame but i have never known which company manufactured it. I believe it's chromoly it is very well built and has dropped seat stays. it has a serial number on the headset but no other info available for Id purposes.
Thank You.


texts: Araya 27 1 1/4 rim and tire, max pressure

texts: I've just bought new tire (deli tires 145) for my old vintage ARAYA rim (27 1 1/4). Tire is the same size but I don't know which max pressure I can put in them, tire says min 73 PSI.


texts: Can disc brakes cause front quick-release to loosen?

texts:
I just purchased a Yuba Spicy Curry Bosch cargo bike with disk brakes and quick release skewers on both wheels. I haven't had any issues with it so far, in fact, I love riding it, but I have read that using disc brakes with a quick release axle can be dangerous, as the braking force can cause the quick release to loosen and the wheel to fall out. It seems crazy to me. Nobody wants to lose their front wheel riding.

Is the risk overstated? Is it something that only happens with badly designed or improperly adjusted QR/disc setups? I check brakes and tire pressure before every time riding, if I just check the QR as well am I going to be fine?

Would it be safer to just replace the quick release on this particular bike with regular nuts?

I just can't imagine it is a common occurrence, but since I ride this bike with my kid as passenger and share it with my wife, I really don't want to leave it to chance. I am curious to hear from anyone familiar with this particular problem of disc brakes, beyond what is stated in the Sheldon Brown article. Thanks!


texts: Is it normal for seat stays on new CAAD12 frame to be slightly warped/not straight?

texts:
The seat stays on my brand new Cannondale CAAD12 frame are slightly warped (not straight and slightly different on both sides), especially around the welding spots for the rear brake mount. I could imagine this could be because of the heat treatment, but just want to make sure, is this normal?

Full res picture: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9y6l6S7soQvLWtZVFg2RXdOMUk Thank you!


texts:
I have moved yet again and I am trying to find a LBS that I trust in my new city.  How do you evaluate a LBS given that you are paying them for services that you don't understand.  (If you did understand them you would just fix your bike yourself).

One of my criteria is that the bike shop trys to down sell me on their products or attempts to convince me not to buy anything at all.

How do you evaluate a new LBS?


texts: Timing Yourself To Determine Gear Ratio/Torque

texts:
Since there are so many types of bikes IGR, belt, and gears, I have resorted to doing timed runs with the bike to determine how high the torque is.  I throw it into the highest gear and ride on flat ground.

If I wasn't comparing bikes I would just use the gear ratios or use a gear calculator(still confuses me slightly).

Is doing timed trials on the highest gear effective for determining which bike has a higher gear ratio?   I gather I am not factoring in wheel speed differences considering some wheels are faster.

Alternatively a tool would be nice that would help but I am guessing they are rather expensive.


texts: Can I run a wheel with a 130mm hub on a mountain bike with 135mm spacing?

texts:
I'd like to build a wheelset that would work on my cross bike or my 29er, assuming I had disc brakes on the 29er and rim brakes on the cross bike, is there any way I could use a 130mm hub (that fits the dropouts on my cross bike) and make it work on the 29er with 135mm spaced dropouts?

The problems I would see would be that the disc rotors wouldn't line up on the 29er.  Could I use spacers to make the hub fit on the 29er or would I need to use a 135mm hub and spread the chainstays on the cross bike?  Would either of those options work?


texts: Why does my drivtrain skip under hard torque?

texts: I recently purchased a new bike, a Specialized hardtail mountain model.  It is on the cheaper side, but with the brand I expected a good ride.  Less than a month of riding it, the drivtrain has started skipping.  Under a hard torque load, the rear drivtrain will "chink", and the crank will slip forward just a little.  It only does this in a few gears, specifically 7 and 8 on the back with the middle chainring. Shifting down to 6 usually stops it.  As it is good quality, brand new bike I did not expect this.  I looked at the rear derailer, and it appears to be ever so slightly bent, but i dont think this is the problem.  It is hard to look back while pedaling hard, but it doesnt look like the chain is trying to go up or down a gear.  Since I got it, I have given it a good wash and lubed everything back up, but the problem remains.  It is a less expensive bike, so I expect to replace some components eventually, but I would like to get my money's worth from the old ones first.   Also, I live over two hours from the nearest bike shop, so any help here would be appreciated.


texts: When did Square Taper Bottom Brackets retire from racing?

texts:
I haven't been able to find any hard data on this. I have the impression that most top-end bikes made the switch around the year 2000.

It would be great if I could get an answer for both of these:

When was the first alternative to ST used in pro racing?
When was ST used for the last time in pro racing?


texts: Carbon 700c Wheels: What does 33/50/60/88 mm refer to?

texts:
I've been browsing 700c carbon rims on ebay, and noticed most are listed with the 33/50/60/88/etc mm in the title.  What does this represent?  It doesn't appear to be spoke/nipple holes.

Additionally, what's the general life span of a carbon rim?


texts:
Can anyone help me identify the model of this bike and possibly give me a time period in which it might have been made? I am considering buying it for a total of $350 with riding shoes in my size, a helmet, and a stationary stand for it. I know nothing about road cycling but am looking to get into it and from what I can tell Eddy Merckx is a great brand with a few exceptions. He says they components, pedals, and shoes are shimano. Apologies for the poor pictures they were all he had. I have not seen the bike in person yet and am a bit concerned that it is disassembled, is there anything in particular I should look for?
Thanks


texts: Headset upgrade, problem finding headtube dimensions for my 2020 Giant ATX 3

texts: It's a 2020 Giant ATX 3. Does any one know how to find this info? Thx.


texts: Front fork pulling to center / "indexed steering"

texts:
So I took my bike in to the repair shop, to have the rear wheel replaced, but after the repair I noticed immediately the steering feeling a bit strange.
I've since worked out why.

The problem is that the front forks are somehow pulling the front wheel back to a straight position, each time the front wheel is turned slightly.

I can see this most easily when picking the front wheel up off of the ground, and turning the front handlebars.
The handlebars basically 'snap' themselves back to the straight position, quite strongly.

So it's not related to the wheel, or tyre, since this happens with the wheel completely lifted off the ground.

And it's not related to the brake or gear cables either, since it does exactly the same thing with these cables pulled out of the way manually.

So, as far as I can work out, it must be due to something inside the actual tube of the front forks.

I'm pretty sure it didn't do this before going in to the repair shop (or at least it didn't do this to any noticeable extent).

Note that, based on looking along the wheel, it really seems to centre front wheel quite accurately, and the centring forces seem quite evenly balanced and smooth on either side. So it kind of seems like something that would need to be set up by design (rather than something being randomly broken).

But, this is definitely not something that is desirable for steering, as it makes it difficult for me to steer appropriately when going around bends (since the forks try to pull back to the straight position, which is not what I want when turning).

So the question is: are front forks supposed to do this kind of 'automatic recentring' to some extent?

(I'm thinking perhaps that maybe it used to be much more subtle before going in to the repair shop, so maybe I didn't notice it, and it was ok for steering before, but it somehow got exaggerated.)

If so, is there some way I'm supposed to be able to 'turn down' the effect.

If not, i.e. if front forks are just not supposed to do this, why could this be happening now, and what should I do about it?


texts:
I was testing my seat and as I was sitting on the bike on the highest level of the seat post.
My seat post came off and bent my seat post, so I ordered another, but now my seat tube doesn't allow my new seat post to fit in even though I bought the same size.
I got a wrench and made my seat tube bigger and finally it fit but now my seat clamp doesn't fit.
Now I ordered a 34-point-something seat clamp which finally worked but now my  problem is my seat clamp isn't tight enough.
My seat goes left and right and when riding for a long time my seat goes down. Is there anything I can do?

My seat tube used to be 28.6 after this incident my old clamp didn't go back in, so I got a 30mm seat clamp but that still didn't work.
So I bought a 34.9mm seat clamp as I thought maybe if I get a bigger size and then really tighten it down it might work as I don't know my bike seat tube size, Then the seat tube in the frame was out of shape.
Could you give me advice on what clamp size to get?
I just bought 2 clamps 28.6 and 31.8 hope one fits.


texts:
I have an indoor, wheel on trainer - while indoors I notice the Chordal Action in the chain.
The Bike is a couple of years old now - I have replaced most consumable parts except, chainrings, bottom bracket and jockey wheels.
Shifting feels fine.
I do think my chain is pretty slack on the high gears - but only just about fits in the lowest.
Chain and cassette are fairly new, less than 500 miles.  Chain is lubricated with "Finish Line Ceramic Wax"
Would it help if I changed the jockey wheels ?


texts: How to create tension in old upright handle bar levers / U brakes?

texts:
I have an old bike with a front brake "Weinmann Symmetric". It was not working very good as it stood in a garage for 20 years.
I bought a new cable and new brake pads.
I tried to pull as much as possible from the cable, while bringing the brake pads to the rim and the tightening the cable. But when I pull the brake lever it does not pool the brake nor return to its position.
This is the brake:

The cable installed, the flash made it a little bit red:

When I activate the brake it stays like that without pulling the brake:

The cable attachment to the brake:

Update:
I tried to put a new cable housing with the same size as the old one and a new cable housing around 3-4inch longer. I still get the same result, the cable does not move at the end.
I made a little video where I don't even have the cable attached to the brake because I don't want to destroy the cable with so many tries, but it is possible to see that the cable does not move at the end. I don't know if its possible to insert videos here so I'll just put a link
https://imgur.com/a/7aH7IMh


texts: Hayes Sole Disk Brake sudden loss of pressure.

texts:
I braked hard today and felt the pressure in my disk brake drop very suddenly.

Since that point the brake has not been working with no action at the calliper and little  pressure in the lever but not spongy.

Any one know the likely cause and whether a bleed might fix.

I can't see any evidence of fluid leakage.


texts:
I bought a 8spd chain and am putting it on a 7spd bikes.  I thought I could use either a seven speed or eight speed chain. But it looks like the chain is way too long should I take out some links if so how many. The derailer I am using is from a different bike.
Paul


texts: What should I look for when purchasing a helmet?

texts:
I dont actually own a cycling helmet, but I'm thinking its probably a good idea to get one!

I want to buy one from the internet (mainly because its cheaper than stores), but what do I need to look for? How do I know which is the correct size?


texts:
I have a new road bike with thru axle and disc brakes (Ultegra). I noticed that depending on the how tight I screw the axle in the frame, the brake disc will be closer to either side of the brake pads. I didn't pay attention at first, so now the rear left pad is much more worn that the right one.

Is there a way to find the perfect torque to make sure that the disc is perfectly centered?


texts: Without getting really technical what determines the length of the cranks that you would use on your bike? I was wondering if longer cranks without being ridiculous would act as a fulcrum and make climbing easier in a higher gear ratio.


texts: Adding Brake Caliper Cable Tension SRAM Rival

texts:
I have come across a really annoying issue that I just can't seem to put a finger on, and it is causing nothing but heart ache and frustration.

I was checking to see how much wear I had on my brake pads, unfortunately the lighting was too dark for me to see correctly while the pads were seated in the Caliper, so I had to remove the pads from the caliper. Once I was done checking the brake pads, I re-seated them and noticed that there was now a lot of play in the shifter/brake lever (I'm using a combo of SRAM Apex & Rival (Brakes) components).

My bike has an internal cable for the rear brake and I believe that the issue may lay here.

So I did what I thought would be a straight forward brake tensioning adjustment, but now there is so much play in the lever and I'm finding the one of the calipers isn't returning to it's usual position. I have tried everything, YouTube, adjusting the adjustment barrel thing, unfortunately the Rival Brakes don't have an adjustment screw on them.

I have tried everything I can think of and I just can't get it back to how I had it set before. Any advice on how I can overcome this problem will be greatly appreciated!

Thanking you in advance,

Stu : )


texts:
I brought my hybrid bike to Evans Cycles recently to get the rear gear mech replaced after I broke it.

When I got the bike back, it was significantly harder to pedal. I tried moving my gears lower but even then the amount of effort required to maintain the bikes speed is higher than before, considerably, which is making my commute exhausting which it never was before.

I notice that it is harder to change the gears now on my bike - twisting the handle feels harder and the gears move very snappy. Could it be they have over tightened something? What do you think it could be?

Thanks!


texts:
I am trying to remove the stickers/decals so I can repaint the bike.

I have tried scrapping, paint thinner, and xylene.

I also tried using a heat gun, but the process seems rather tedious.

Is there some method that is faster?


texts:
I have a Travel Trac (Performance Bicycle) Century V fluid trainer, vintage c. 2005, that I've pressed into heavy-duty service during the pandemic.
It's been working well these past months, but seems to have developed a leak recently.
Is it reasonable to try to repair the leak? I found a video where a guy fixed his JetBlack fluid trainer by just replacing an O-ring.
Rather than trying to fix it myself, I'd like to hand off the task to a professional. Is there a shop in the US (even better, the Bay Area) that's experienced with this repair?
I'd hate to trash the otherwise-fine trainer for a failed $1 part.


texts: I have a Lappierre Zesty 314  (2012). I'm running XT rear mech, an SLX front mech, my crank is XT, rear cassette is XT and XT chain. I went to the Forest of Dean and after the day was over I snapped my chain! I picked up a SRAM chain for my bike and now when I pedal hard it slips with a big bang. I have new Eastern Havens so my hub is fine. Can you help with any ideas to help me solve this? Shall I get a new rear cassette?


texts: I need to replace a rusted up Shimano FD-M191 front derailleur.  This is the original equipment on my 2010 Fuji Absolute 3.0, which has 3 gears in front and 8 in back.  Acera SL-M310 rapid fire shifters. Seems like FD-M590 for FD-M360 might work?  So many models.


texts:
I just bought a new MTB and am planning to change my previous MTB into a Road Bike.

How do I do it? What kind of parts do I need to change or add or remove?

I am not looking to for a full conversion into specialised road bike. But like the answers are suggesting, I am looking for a bridge between commuter or road bike. My majors concerns to be met are:

Should be fast enough to compete with road racers over short distance
Should be light as a road
Should be as close as possible in as cheap as possible.


texts:
Question: What is the correct way to replace a damaged QR on a Specialized Allez Elite ?
I broke this whilst trying to open the QR. It was extremely tight. I tapped with a hammer (I know not bright) and boom it broke. This is not a manufacturing mistake it is mine. Thanks in advance.


texts: What could be the reason for chain skipping

texts: My chain is skipping only on the smallest sprocket, and it skips with every crank turn. The chain is not stretched. Also, chainrings are almost new. Could this freewheel be the reason, it doesn't seem worn out to me (although it's old):


texts: Should spoke tension be measured before or after adding a tube and tire?

texts:
I built my first set of wheels and measured the spoke tension when I finished. They were all uniformly tense at about 100kg of force.

Once I put the tire on, that measurement went down a little, to about 90 kg -- makes sense, I guess: the tube and tire must compress the wheel.

But the drop made me wonder if the measurement to pay attention to is before or after the tire is added.


texts:
Does anyone know the oil specs for the 2013 Totem RC2 DH DPA fork?

On http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/totem-rc2-dh the "Technical Manual - RockShox Front Fork Oil Chart - 2011 (44.85 KB)" only mentions 2 step (their previous system and not dual position air) and the latest PDF "2014 RockShox Suspension Fork Oil, Air, and Coil Charts (2.3 MB)" has all the forks apart Totem. I think that's because they are discontinuing Totem this year.


texts:
Last year I started biking again. My current ride is a quite good "cross" bike weighing a bit more than 10kg  (~22lb, I didn't weigh it). Currently I'm doing around 200km (~120 mi) per week, mostly on roads. Now I'm wondering whether a road bike would be beneficial for day-trips or such. I live near the Alps in a hilly area.

Is there a notable benefit from the lower weight of a road bike? (I weigh 80kg, 175lb) Unless it's a really step difference or a I pay a lot for a very light bike I don't expect much benefit, but might I be wrong?
I wonder how notable road bike tires might be, I'm expecting way less resistance. Any way to qualify that?
A road bike handlebar has more ways it can be gripped, which might be comfortable on longer rides.
A road bike looks nicer :-p

Are there more important factors I should consider? I'd certainly keep my current bike for times where I have to carry luggage or want to stay off roads.


texts: Post cyclo cross race bike cleaning and lubrication for you bottom bracket?

texts: If I wash down my bike after a muddy race cross race or training ride I usually dry everything off and then begin lubricating the chain and sprockets back up once it has dried. The only place I don't do this is the bottom bracket, it this something I should be doing as I have gone through one bottom bracket per year for the last three years or is this normal?


texts: Clicking noise from drivetrain under load

texts:
So when I pedal under high pressure, one crank arm loudly clicks one time at position 1 or 2 (non-repeatable click) and when I continue, the other arm does the exact thing at the same position.
The click can only be produced once in a given arm before the other arm clicks under pressure at the said position, so the click alternates between the arms under pressure, once each.
The same thing happens when the bicycle is standing still while putting pressure on the pedals (holding the brake).
I hope my explanation is clear; it seems a bit wordy.
It is not the pedals or the crank arms themselves that are the culprit, coz I made sure they are properly tight.
I am using a sealed bottom bracket and I suspect it is the source of this.
What do you think is the cause? And if it's the BB, do I have to replace it?
Thanks


texts:
Has anyone heard of a device that records gear changes?

Like a cadence sensor or power meter, but specific to recording when you change gear.
With all the data we can currently capture about our cycle training, it would be interesting to see which gears are used and when, mapping this against gradient/speed/cadence/power/... .

While I don't plan on dropping any coin on di2 or etap, is this even something included in them?


texts: Road bike fitting: Fit calculator results look slightly different with the bike I am planning to purchase

texts:
I am planning to purchase a Triban RC 120. My height is 181.3 cms and I am planning to get an L sized model.

Since I am new to road biking, after reading about it for a bit, I decided to get the bike fit done. I referred to this site to get the measurements: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp

The recommendations from the site and the actual measurements from the RC 120 are as mentioned below:

The top tube length looks okay to me. I am concerned about the Seat Tube Range params. Based on the measurements, I think my legs have a disproportionate length than the general standards.

I am confused as to whether I should go ahead and purchase this or not?

PS: I am planning to rent a Triban 500 for a couple of days to get the actual experience of a road bike before purchasing one.


texts: Low profile tire suggestion for 27 x 1 1/8 wheels

texts:
I recently purchased a Japanese vintage early 80s Zunow bicycle. The wheels rim are Araya 27" x 1 1/8 and I need to replace the tires. After some research and recommendation from my local bicycle shop we ordered the Panaracer Pasela but my fork doesn't have enough clearance for them.

Any similar experience or recommendations on other brands of good tires with lower profile I could try?


texts:
In some areas of the world, cars are allowed to use snow chains (or cables) in order to increase traction on ice and snow. This is slightly complicated on bicycles, but has been done. The main problems seem to be the chain being fixed to the tire while avoiding the rims (for brakes; presumably this can be relaxed for bikes with disc brakes to grab around the rims).

As an alternative to installing tire chains, various manufacturers have been selling snow socks (wraps) for car tires, which are temporary stretchable covers for your tires designed to increase traction in winter driving conditions without having to install chains or specific winter tires. While I haven't used them, they seem to be helpful for occasional cases where all season tires are not comfortably enough. It seems like some of them work on changing texture due to water absorption due to tire heating (which I don't think will happen on a bicycle, but depending on absorption rate, could be pre-treated with warm water before riding), while others start textured.

Does anybody offer snow socks for bicycles? (I was not able to find them, but I'm guessing you could stitch together a set for both tires from one car snow sock, possibly with some additional fastenings to prevent the cover from rolling off. I also did not see a similar product for motorcycles.).
If they exist: Has anyone tried to use snow socks on bicycles? If so, did they offer a significant advantage over running a smooth road tire or a non-smooth commuter tire such as this (or alternatively, some knobby variety of tire) without the sock?
If they do not exist: Does anyone have some theoretical insights to the last problem?

I realize there are two issues here - snow and ice, which are related but somewhat distinct due to the types of snow and ice, so characterizations in both cases would be useful. Snow socks are useful for on-road use, so lets restrict the answers to the case for on-road use.

This question is primarily of theoretical interest, given the installation times for snow chains being longer than a tire swap, but snow socks should be quicker if they can be fastened to the tire around the rim as in the disc brake case.


texts:
After a few months of usage, this new trailer hitch looks as in the picture below:

The black is removed and the hitch started rusting. Can I still fix this? What could I have done better? Just wipe off dry after usage?


texts:
The mechanism inside one of my gear shifters is a bit skewiff and I can't lock the cover on properly. Any idea what the problem is? Pictures of the dodgy one and the ok one for comparison with the cover off and then on.

I think a part may be missing from the dodgy one?

Dodgy one:

OK one (with an extra cog?):


texts: How to tighten gates belt drive on Focus planet 8

texts:
the belt on my focus planet 8 is becoming a bit loose and I thought of tightening it.

The rear wheel setup on the focus is similar to the one in the video from bikefriday below:

What is different is that my bike does not have the adjuster holes to change the tension. There is the big long thread, but at the end there is no hole for an allan key nor is there a hole for a screwdriver to adjust?

Pictures below:

Does anybody know how to deal with this?

Below are the pictures from the side:
sideview1

I imagined that the process should be: open the 2 bolts from the outside, then tighten the inside "bolt" on the chainstay. however I don't see a way how to perform the last step, as it is not a bolt nor a screw that i have on the inside chainstay.

thanks


texts: Specialized Roubaix Seat Post Rubber Seal Loose

texts: On my Specialized Roubaix Comp, the rubber seal where the seat post enters the frame works loose and slides up the seat post a little. The seat post itself is not loose and stays put, the issue is just with the seal.  I not sure if the seal serves a functional purpose (i.e. to prevent water ingress) or if it is just for aerodynamics and appearance. However, it bothers me that will not stay put. How do I get it to stay put?


texts: Need help - changing tires/rims on Origin8 Intersekt 7

texts:
I bought an Origin 8 Intersekt 7 two years ago. Denver has so much construction, and "goat heads" that I've popped my tires 7 out of 8 rides. Needless to say, I'm way over it, and haven't ridden the bike since summer 2016.

I'd like to replace the tires and rims to something thicker, but not sure if I can do that with the bike.

Current wheels specs:
7-speed cassette on rear
700 x 28C
50mm walls

Can I bump up to a "wider" rim and "thicker" tire so I don't have as many flats. I love the look of the bike, and don't want to get rid of it, etc. Help?


texts: Transfer components from a Scott Spark 20 to a Orange Alpine 160

texts: My beloved Scott Spark 20 with an all carbon frame bit the dust after many years. I would like a new bike to rise out of the ashes of the spark and have seen a 2nd had Alpine 160 frame I fancy. Is this a good match though, the Spark has 120mm travel forks and I guess the Alpine has 160mm rear travel, would that make for a badly handling bike?


texts: E-bike battery charger making horrible noises, only works certain outlets?

texts:
I had posted on endless sphere but since then I have possibly made a little discovery.

Tldr; I have a fresh 48v battery and charger around less than 3 months old. Very intermittently when trying to charge the battery the charger will power up, the fan spins up and then it starts to make a nasty buzzing / whirring sound. Its pretty loud normally but this is something else.

My discovery since the last post is that I no longer believe this is a broken fan issue, as I know that can make a lot of noise. I will not dismiss the possibility by any means though. Main reason for believing this is that when I charge at home it boots up fine and lightly whirrs. But more often than not I have noticed when I am charging in my place of work, this weird sound starts like clockwork almost as soon as I turn it on.

I can be entirely sure of this but id say i cant remember it once doing it at home, but its happened around 10 times now in work. Sometimes it can charge fine even on the supply, it is kind of odd.

I have attached a picture of the charger and a video sample of the noise it makes.

It is a generic style chinese brand charger so criticise if you wish but this is brand new, CE and RoHS tested.

Any help or SUGGESTIONS FOR A NEW CHARGER using the bespoke connector it has would be GREATLY appreciated.

The charger is a generic-style C300 model battery charger, similar to the one shown below:
https://i.imgur.com/a1vYr7K.png

[Charger noise video]
https://streamable.com/1kmpr

[3 Pin DIN style connector, not XLR]
https://imgur.com/a/4oqjeRB