texts:
Last weekend, a friend told me about a local bicycle shop(Metro Cycles) selling a Carbon Cycle of Hamilton brand. This brand is sort of known in India but only for cheap bicycles. Later I figured out that Hamilton Bicycles is an in-house brand of Metro Cycles.

So, I went to have a look at the bicycle out of curiosity. It sure is a carbon frame, but I couldn't get more information about it as the dealer as well as the website are sparse on details. I have been wondering how come they came up with one-off carbon model and who designed it and where.

Some pictures of the bicycle:

This is the product page on their website: http://hamiltoncycles.in/Product.aspx?pId=10270

My notes on the first look at the bike:

Carbon Quality Unknown.
Endurance Geometry.
Shimano groupset: nondescript, 8 speed.
Saddle torn.
Handlebar bad. The grip is torn.
Brakes seem to be really bad. The rear brake has horrible stopping power.
JHT wheels?
Size not specified
Carbon chipped.
Horribly maintained

And they quoted ₹95000/-(~$1350) for this stupid thing. Surely, I can get a Carbon bike with Tiagra groupset for a little more.

Surely never buying this bike nor even recommending it to anybody but it has me wondering how to judge the frame quality. I have always relied on online reviews for known brands but when it comes to brands like these, I have no idea where to start. I faced a similar lack of information when I was looking for Java bikes, and thus let it go.


texts:
I'm a trumpet playet and I would like to carry my instrument with me on long trips. I have a quite light bag for my trumpet which can be carried as a backpack, but this might be troublesome for long trips. I would like to somehow attach my trumpet (probably inside of a case) directly to the bike. Currently my bike is equipped with a luggage rack at the bag to which saddlebags are attached.
Any idea is welcomed !


texts: 2 speed (double) shimano road shifter on triple chainring crankset?

texts:
I would like to put a 2-speed Shimano road shifter on my bike.
The bike is 3-speed front crankset.  Could I put these two together?


texts: What is a good small bicycle bag to store your gear and/or personal things?

texts: I'm looking for one that attaches to your bike and easily detaches so you can take it with you.  I usually ride with a small Timbuktu messenger style bag (really small, it's about the size of a large book) and I carry my wallet, phone, keys and stuff in it.  Is there something for bikes so that I can easily attach and detach from the bike?


texts: shimano fc4400 double chainring replacement

texts:
I am looking to replace my Tiagra fc4400 52t chainring, however it seems to be out of stock everywhere.

Based on the parameters (130BCD, 52t) I found a few alternatives, however all of them are 10 speed.

Also, I am not sure I can put them on the same 4400 crank, as it seems the new chainset's connecting sides are slightly wider. Would it simply be a visual mismatch, or can I expect any installing/usage problems?

If the 5700 chainring is not usable on this chainset, is there another you could recommend?

Thanks!


texts:
I need to replace the freehub body on a RS505 hub but I can't find the FH-RS505 hub for sale anywhere.

I've checked the Shimano compatibility section for this hub. It looks as though all the freehubs under the FH/WH are compatible with the RS505 hub. Is this correct? If not, which freehub bodies are compatible with this hub?


texts: How to eat properly when cycling in extreme heat?

texts:
In the US, we're in the middle of a heat wave. Temperatures are topping 100 degrees F and up in some areas. When touring, how should one's eating and drinking before and during a ride be changed to deal with heat like this?

If I don't chicken out, I'll be touring this weekend. I've ridden in temperatures like this before, but I'd like to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious.

The usual way I deal with heat is to drink lots of water, eat properly, reapply sunscreen more often, and don't ride too hard; conserve energy and take a break during the hottest part of the day. (Noon to three, in my experience.) I keep my helmet padding wet, and make sure to eat salty food. However, I'm not sure if I should eat and drink the same kinds of things.

For during-the-ride food, I've packed dried fruit, nuts, trail mix, energy bars, and I have five water bottles that I keep topped off.

I'll have a camping load - around 40 pounds of stuff - and I usually keep a pace of around 10mph.

This ride will be mostly on the roads, in the Pine Barrens of New Jersey, so there won't be all that much climbing.

Specifically:

Do I stick with protein the night before the ride and carbs after, or does the heat bring different requirements to the table? I'm a vegetarian when away from home, so that restricts what I can eat for my lunch breaks.
In the past, I've eschewed sports drinks, but is important that I ingest electrolytes? Should I start looking into sports drinks?


texts: What to check after blowing tire off rim

texts:
Recently, after mis-reading "35-65 PSI" on a tire sidewall as "35-85 PSI" (in retrospect the unusually huge range should have tipped me off), I inflated a tire rated for 65PSI max to 80PSI. A few minutes later it blew off quite violently, giving me quite the fright.

Now I'm nervous about using the tire again, wondering if it will blow off again more easily now, etc.

So my question is a) would you generally continue to use a tire that has blown off a rim once or is best to chuck it, and b) what aspects of the tire and rim would you inspect and what are you looking for to determine if it's safe to keep using the tire? The one I mentioned looks like the rubber around the bead is a little roughed up but not terrribly so. I'll add a picture when I get home.

Thanks.


texts: What is the largest hole a tire can bear before replacement?

texts:
Saw this question today. The tire in question has a 2cm long hole on the inside, from a knife.

I sometimes get puncture flats from e.g. glass. Never as big as 2cm. Usually if they're less than 1/2cm, I just keep using the tire. Is this at all dangerous? At what size does a hole in the tire become dangerous?


texts: Wear on an IGH by pre-selecting gear under power

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I have a bike with an 11 speed alfine IGH in the rear wheel.  It works fine, and I am comfortable riding it.

When accelerating hard or sprinting for some reason, I've noticed its possible to change at the shifter but the gearbox doesn't react until the chain tension drops for an instant.   For the Alfine, this mostly happens when changing to a harder gear.

This is similar but opposite to a derailleur-equipped bike, where changing down to a lower/easier gear (ie chain moves to a bigger rear cog) needs a brief window of lower chain tension to get over.  You might have done this when on a climb and have run out of leg in the current gear, and need to change to an easier gear.

Question: Is this bad?  Is it causing more wear on the internals of the IGH?

It seems my carefully-cultivated smooth pedal circle doesn't help.  A slightly choppier or bouncier pedal stroke allows the gear change to happen mcuh easier.

As a test I managed to ride in second gear  while clicking through to about 9th gear, though this was intentional.   When riding for real it might be only one gear postion out, but pulling away from a light quickly might cause 3~4 gears difference and when it does catch up I can end up in an overly hard gear,


texts: Which footwear is the safest for summer cycling?

texts: This morning I could not find my training shoes. So, I used my sandals. I found that the sandals not only kept my feet cool but there was no pedal slippage as I had expected. The more I think about it, having no laces is probably another advantage. So, which footwear is best for summer cycling?


texts: Trouble aligning front disc brake - rotor noise

texts:
I'm having trouble getting my front brakes aligned properly and staying aligned. The brakes are Tektro HDR-210 - I asked Tektro and they should be an OEM version of the HDR-310. I've just installed new Shimano B01S pads.

The brakes make a rubbing sound as in this video. This was shot just after I aligned the calliper by loosening the mounting bolts, holding the brakes on, and then tightening the bolts while the brakes are held on.

I noticed that the noise only happens when the lower mounting bolt on the fork is tightened. I've tried tightening the bolts in different orders but it hasn't made a difference: as soon as the bottom bolt is tight the rotor starts rubbing. Before tightening the lower bolt everything seems well aligned. The rotor seems pretty true visually to me.

I had to remove a little brake fluid to get the pistons to fully retract before the rotor would fit between the pads at all. I couldn't get any air to come out of the line. Braking at the front seems fine, about the same as the rear brakes that I haven't worked on.

Maybe once I've worn the pads a little there won't be any friction? It doesn't seem to be seriously affecting the wheel's rotation at the moment.

Is there something I can do to reduce the noise? Is this something that I should be concerned about or is it safe to ignore?

Update: I rode today, having not ridden yesterday. I guess in the ~48hrs since the last ride the brake fluid settled: the first pump of the front brakes was basically loose. After that they worked as well as the rear. I span the front wheel before I set out and it didn't seem to be making the rubbing noise, but it was there when I got back.

If nothing else I'm going to bleed & top up the line. I'm still not sure why the pad would be rubbing the rotor.


texts: I have just purchased an e-bike that came with a wide "comfort saddle". I am used to riding a hybrid with a narrow saddle, and that seat was very comfortable on long trips. Should I replace my comfort saddle with a narrow saddle, or stay with the original?


texts: Why is the Shimano R3030 FD not compatible with the 3503 FC?

texts:
I have an older version of the Triban 520 with the Shimano Sora 3503 groupset (3x9 speed). I neglected it for two weeks over winter and the salt has done some damage. The spring in the front derailleur no longer returns the cage. I am looking at replacing the front mech. It seems much easier to find a R3030 front derailleur rather than the older 3503 front derailleur.

From the Shimano compatibility documentation I can see that the the 3503 shifters are compatible with the R3030, 3503 and R353 front derailleur. Though, it seems that the R3030 front derailleur is not compatible with 3503 crankset. Can anyone explain why this is the case and suggest a suitable replacement?


texts: What is a better gearing combination for downhill?

texts:
One of the tracks I've been riding recently is testing both my skill level and my bike. The track is a combination steepness and roughness that makes it significantly different to what I've previously riden. The track is probably more suited to an AM FSR but I'm riding an XC hardtail.

The frequent chain slapping and rear derailleur bouncing around has led me to question what the best gear ratio to ride is and if this will damage my drive train.

Is it better to ride downhill in the larger chainring (42T) on a lower gear with a tighter chain or in the middle (32T) in a higher gear assuming the ration at the end is roughly similar?


texts: Gates Carbon Drive single speed shows inconsistent tension

texts: I recently noticed an issue with my Carbon Drive bike where pedaling was difficult at a certain point of rotation for the crank. Within about 30 degrees of movement of the crank, the tension on the belt becomes much higher, almost doubling. For the rest of the rotation of the crank, the tension is normal. This happens regularly with each rotation, which implies to me that (1) there is some defect or irregularity with the front sprocket, or (2) the crank is rotating irregularly. I suspect it is more likely (1), since the tension only changes for a very small range of motion of the crank, but I have no idea how to tell for sure. My question now is, is there a good way to diagnose problems with a front sprocket on a belt drive bike? More generally, are there good troubleshooting steps for dealing with tension inconsistencies like this?


texts: Will using dry lube and wet lube together give you better protection/performance than from using just one of them?

texts:
I think the only way to use them together is to put on dry lube first and then wet lube.
Will the wet lube hold? Will applying both give you the best that each has to offer?

Update
Just found this video on YouTube. It teaches you three techniques to clean your chain. If you forward to timecode 8:20 of the video. He mentions that you can put on Finish Line's Dry Teflon Lube and later you can put another lube on top of it:

Just wondering if this is ok.

Update
Just bought some Finish Line products to do some chain maintenance. On the back of the Finish Line product pamphlet they have a list called "Pro Team Mechanic Tips". Two of the items on the list contain techniques that use two different lubes/greases on the same chain...I've included them below...

In extremely wet conditions, some mechanics will lube the chain with WET lube, then apply a top coating of Teflon Grease to the chain.
In semi-wet conditions, some will apply DRY Lube to the chain as a base coat, and then a top coat of WET lube.

So, I think based on this list and the video link I found above.  Applying both lubes is an acceptable technique.


texts: Is anyone aware of specific problems with Vanmoof cranks/bottom brackets?

texts:
I have a 2013 Vanmoof 5.1. I had it serviced recently by Vanmoof in Amsterdam and when I got it back, it was riding wonderfully—everything felt smooth and "free", like every little bit of power I was putting into the pedals was getting to the road.

Two weeks later and it's kind of back to where it was before the service. There is a little creaking/ticking sound coming from the cranks every turn and it feels a little like I'm riding through treacle.

Is anyone aware of a specific problem with Vanmoof bottom brackets, or could you suggest what it might be?


texts:
What is a good method for finding a bike which matches my riding style, body measurements and bank account size when not able to actually go and try the given candidate bike model(s) in-person?

In my particular case, I live in a corner of the world where the type of bikes carried by almost all dealers (large and small) are in no way what I want: I want something akin to a classic "randonneuring" bike, but there is only one shop which "carries" anything close to that-- the shop has a single Kona Honky Tonk, and their solution would be to e.g. add fenders, racks, etc. Perhaps this is in fact a good solution, but I would like to have more than one available to me.

Manufacturers/models

Obviously, I can do research on the Internet to find appropriate manufacturers/models (e.g. Kona, Surly, Salsa), but I would need to actually get one of these bikes, and they don't always deliver (I am outside the US, and it's even harder to find local brands which make similar bikes because everyone wants a bike suitable either for Grandma or for Lance Armstrong despite still riding in their Lycra more slowly than I can walk in ski boots).

Fit/sizing

However, even after finding a potential choice for me, how can I even know if it fits me?-- I'm not a freak or anything (180cm and ~67kg), but I do know how differently even different road bikes "feel", and so the idea of ordering a bike online sounds like a bad idea to begin with.

Maintenance/repair

Although many bike components are more or less standardized to some extent, might I still not need to get some components which are "exotic" to my location, given that the bikes themselves are not sold here?-- having to mail-order a replacement for something which broke unexpectedly would be a tad annoying.

So, is there a reasonable non-local solution here for me, or might the best solution to simply be to do as the Romans do?

Thanks for the advice.


texts: Adjusting bike fitting to cope with FAI (hip deformity)

texts: After many years in the saddle (as a casual rider only) I am currently unable to ride to due a problem with my hips. I just got the X-rays back and it seems I have a "pincer" deformity on both hips which is causing pain and limited motion. I am hoping this can be treated with pain meds and possibly surgery in the near future, and then I'll obviously be wanting to start riding again. To avoid a recurrence of this problem it seems I may have to pay more attention to the fit of my bike, and how I sit. From what I've read so far it seems that my cranks may be a little too long for my leg length, and perhaps a more upright riding position will also help to reduce the effect of hip joint impingement. Has anyone else had to deal with anything similar, or have any suggestions as to how to reduce the impact on hip joints ?


texts: Replacing the bike seat on my mid-1990s Trek mountain bike

texts: I have an old Trek mountain bike, about 22 years old but still in great shape.   I want to replace the original "Avocet" seat with a more comfortable seat.    Are bike seats universal so I could buy any one for the bike?


texts: Is it possible to remove wheel without loosening the (V) brakes

texts:
I have a mountain bike with V-brakes and every time I get a puncture and need to remove the wheel to replace the inner tube, I have to use a hex/Allen key to loosen the brakes, otherwise I can't pull the wheel out.

Is there a way to loosen the brake arms without fiddling with the hex/Allen screw? I'm worried about wearing the screw out.

Just to clarify, quick release isn't good anyway, noodle still won't come out and I still have to loosen the cable.

Adding a photo of noodle in question, as suggested (I've moved the cover to the right to fully expose the end of the noodle):

Another photo of noodle with breaks released:

And one with breaks engaged (apologies for the blurriness, was a little tricky holding my phone and engaging the break):

And finally, one with the arms pinched:


texts: What are the pros and cons of a Turbo Trainer over Training Rollers?

texts:
For the winter, I'm looking to get either a Turbo Trainer (like this one) or Training Rollers (like these)

What are the pros and cons of each?

I don't think I like the idea of not being able to turn the front wheel.  Mind you, I do a fair bit of spinning, and it doesn't bother me there.

The rollers 'look' better, somehow more natural.

What are your experiences?


texts: What are the different types of bottom brackets?

texts:
Right now I am only familiar with two types of BBs (bottom brackets):

The square type on my older mountain bike.
The hallowtech (SM-BB70) that comes with a Deore XT crank I bought on my newer bike. I'm assuming hallowtech is a newer technology. Its waaay lighter than the square type one because of the hallow tubing.

But then I read about pressfit BBs. After a bit of reading I could not find a good comparison between the SM-BB70 and pressfit BB.

Are there other BBs I dont know of? Also if someone could provide a list of pros and cons for the different type of BBs that would be a big plus! Thanks in advance.


texts:
My rear wheel was stolen this morning and I am unsure about how to go about getting  a new one without wasting too much time and money (I really want to start biking to work again!). My bike is really old and I'm not sure what parts I need to measure to figure out which type of wheel to get.

It's a Diamondback Apex adventure series that looks exactly like this picture.

I'm completely new to bikes and don't know what the parts are called. It looks like the gear part was left over. Can anybody tell me where to start, and what to measure?


texts:
I'm 183 cm / 100 kg (220 lbs) and was thinking of buying a bike. I was looking at the following models:

Trek Bike 7.4FX (http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/city/fitness/fx/7_4_fx/)

and

Giant Escape RX3 (http://giant.co.jp/giant12/bike_datail.php?p_id=00000044&action=outline)

Are these two models strong enough to hold me?
I am planning to ride the bike on roads only, but maybe a dirt road or a road with cracks or even holes once in a while. Are the tires strong enough?
The tires are 700-32C. Can I say the wider the tire the stronger?
I am not sure about the absolute weight limit. Can you find it? Is it 125 kg / 275 lbs? (Maybe I want to put some stuff on it. That's why I'm asking.)
If I need a weight limit to up to 136 kg / 300 lbs, do I need to consider a mountain bike?

Thanks in advance ...

B


texts: Is there a good resource for helping to discern the cause of pain / soreness?

texts:
I went for my longest ride of the year this past Sunday. I guess my body wasn't expecting it or my bike is slightly misconfigured. I'm interested in finding a resource where I can look up what I might have done wrong based on where I am experiencing pain. Does such a resource exist?

FWIW, I had serious stiffness and pain between my right calf muscle and right ankle.


texts:
I have an old 2000 Cannondale XR800 (CAAD3?) that I want to upgrade with a non-suspension, disk-brake compatible front fork. Something like this.

But what fork to buy? Anything I should know about standards, measurements etc?

I believe I may be capable of putting everything (fork, wheel, disk, caliper) together. But I know nothing about fork/stem standards and compatibility and such.

--

The bike currently has the original Rock Shock fork with suspension in/at the steering stem. It's been great, but I really really want disk brakes and the suspension doesn't really give me much (I think :) plus it needs maintenance all the time.

I am considering buying a new bike altogether, but I like this old bike. And I have a feeling this old frame can keep up with modern ones. Feel free to correct me on this.


texts: Please suggest a Hitch Bike Rack Theft Protection Solution

texts:
Recently I purchased hitch bike rack. This is my second bike rack. My first one was stolen when I left it installed on car (car parked on street).
The one which got stolen was a THULE bike rack. The new one I bought is Yakima. But I think they use same kind of locking mechanism, Details here. I do not trust these locks much. Previous one has a similar lock but got stolen.
Is there a way I can make it difficult to steal? Right now only this lock is a deterrent (and rack weight, its 50 pounds).
I could not find any product as such which addresses this problem.
I am fine with any solution(like securing the rack with car's frame with a strong  metal chain), as long as it makes a strong deterrent for a professional thief.
Please suggest a solution. Too see the product visit here https://yakima.com/products/fullswing .


texts: How easy (or hard) is to move a Rohloff speedhub from one bicycle to another?

texts:
I have two 26" bicycles and I am considering investing in a super expensive Rohloff speedhub.

I would like to know if it would be possible to easily move the wheel with the rohloff hub from one bike to another - assuming of course that both have already been set up for it (shifter, cable, and everything).

Thank you


texts: Is it worth it to reverse the wrap direction of handlebar tape at the brake levers?

texts:
The Park Tool Handlebar Tape Installation guide suggests that the direction of wrapping can be either self tightening or prone to loosening. Its basic instructions make the tape self-tightening on the tops. The guide also describes how to start wrapping in a direction that makes the tape self-tightening in the drops, and then at the brake levers to switch to a direction that makes the tape self-tightening on the tops.

How much of a difference does the direction of wrapping make in practice? Is loosening of handlebar wrap a common problem? Are there any downsides to reversing the direction of handlebar tape at the brake levers, and if so, is it worth it?


texts: How close do I have to be for effective drafting (while commuting)?

texts:
I commute and want to draft another bike, but still have room to stop when someone opens a car door in front of the rider in front of me. At what distance does drafting significantly reduce drag? Are there factors other than following distance that influence drafting efficacy (wind direction, etc)?

This is not a question about whether the drafting while riding through urban environments is a good or bad idea. I know that it is probably a bad idea.


texts: Difference between high and low pressure air springs?

texts:
I've just been adjusting the spring pressure on my
Rock Shox SID XX fork and then adjusted my Manitou Minute Expert because I had the pump out. The SID has the solo air spring and needed 115psi and the Minute has the ACT spring and only needed 20psi. Whats the difference between high and low pressure systems and what is the benefits of each?


texts: I need some help identifying a bike I just acquired


texts: Crankshaft snags and loses resistance while cycling

texts:
I have a hybrid (18+ years old) that I use for daily commuting which has developed a problem with the cranks. Every so often (perhaps 10% of the time) when I push down on either crank arm after free-wheeling, there is the sound of the cranks snagging/grinding on something internally, which can sometimes be felt through the pedals. The cranks then momentarily lose resistance and stop driving. This usually corrects itself within another complete 1-2 revolutions of the cranks (leading to further sounds of grinding metal), after which resistance is restored.

I'm not sure whether it's relevant but I recently had the pedals replaced on the bike, and the mechanic mentioned they were hard to remove. The cranks seemed to be fine before having the pedals replaced (no problems or noises). The bike also used to make a quiet "tick-tick-tick" sound when free-wheeled, but I've noticed this has stopped completely.

I suspect the bottom bracket needs replacing (the last time would be years ago, if ever), and we've had lots of rain recently so maybe some water found its way in.  Everything else (chain, gears, pedals, etc.) are fine.

Are these symptoms consistent with bottom bracket failure, or something else?  Does this explain why the "tick-tick-tick" sound has stopped?

Thanks.


texts: Converting a KHS FLITE 223 into a freewheel fixie?

texts:
I have this KHS Road bike that I got back in high school and was wondering if I'm able to convert it into a freewheel fixie (I think that's the right term) The bike does have vertical dropouts. Would it be cheaper to convert it or just buy a new bike altogether?
Here is a link with all the specs I haven't changed anything since I got it!
https://khsbicycles.com/bikes/flite-223-16/


texts: The threads on my bike's pedal crank just became fully stripped and the pedal fell off, though the pedal itself is fine. Is there any way I can fix this without fully replacing the pedal crank?


texts: What is the crank length on a Shimano Deore XT?

texts:
I have this bike:
http://www.trekbikes.com/int/en/bikes/mountain/cross_country/superfly/superfly_9_8/

Frame Size is 17.5
Crank is: Shimano Deore XT, 38/24

I purchased a garmin edge. It asks for Crank length for the cadence business.

How do I get my crank length?  Should I get out a tape and measure it?


texts: How do I move my chainring without moving my crank arm?

texts:
I recently did a 1x10 conversion on my mountain bike. I replaced almost everything on my drive train except for my crankset. The single chainring (104 BCD, 34T) fits onto my drive-side crank arm in the position where the large chainring used to fit (used to be 3-speed in the front). This causes some severe cross-chaining (if it's even called that on a 1x) when my chain is on the biggest cassette ring.

How do I move my chainring closer to the bike frame and therefore more to the center of the cassette? Can I buy spacers? Do I need to move my drive-side crank arm itself? Do I need to replace the crankset entirely?


texts:
It's time to replace my shift cables on my road bike and I'm thinking of spending the extra and investing in Shimano Dura Ace 9000 polymer cables.

Has anyone experience of these? I'd appreciate your thoughts, particularly on whether the shifting is any better over standard cables and if you think they are worth the money.

I run Ultegra 6700 and can't think of any reason why they wouldn't be compatible.

Regarding installation/maintenance:

I understand that when you install them you need to scrape the polymer off the cable where it is clamped down upon by the rear derailleur - Is it simple enough to scrape off without making a dogs' breakfast of it?
They are pre-lubed with silicone grease - in the future will WD-40 suffice to keep things moving smoothly?


texts: Upgrading 8 speed shimano Acera RD-M3000 to 11 speed Deore XT M-8000?

texts:
I want to upgrade my existing setup, but i wanted to know if the frame will have enough space to make it possible ?

Thanks,
Sam


texts: Is it possible to replace a MTB crankset to a Roadbike crankset on an MTB frame?

texts:
I just want my bike to go as fast on a road and can go trails as well.

Update:

I got a gear calculator app and this is what I would get if I upgrade my cassette and chainrings. A more than 10kph difference based on my normal cadence of 70. I hope this app is accurate. Kinda stick to all MTB parts and will not mixed with roadbike crank since its not workable. I think I may be pedaling slower for this upgrade but pretty sure will get used to it and improve my pedaling power in the long run.


texts: If I am using Bar End Shifters, is there a compelling reason to change the old brake levers?

texts: I have old dull aluminum break pulls on dropbars with suicide levers.  The new brakes are Tektro long reach.  Should I change the levers?  If so what is a good quality/price lever to buy?


texts:
Is there a resource comparing different safety statistics for transporting babies on bicycles, specifically using different methods?

I'd like to see some information about how safe it is to compare a baby in a bike seat vs. in a trailer vs. in a box bike. Intuitively trailers seem to have the least risk of a fall, but might be more likely to be hit by an inattentive motorist. I've looked and I can't find any data about this.


texts:
I have a very specific compatibility issue : I just bought a Shimano Nexus 8 "SG C6000-8R" rear hub and would like to know if I can use it with the Shimano "SL-S503" gear trigger.

The reference page, which is about a slightly different hub (mine doesn't have coaster brake) claims that we can use it with the Shimano SL-500, nothing said about SL-503.

So, does anyone have experience having a bike with both components? Or can someone surely say that they will work together.

More generally though, I don't understand how references are made: what's the difference between the SL-S500 and SL-S503, between the SG C6000 and SG C6001, etc?


texts: Rescue corroded alloy nipples on wheel spokes, perhaps using chemicals?

texts:
My wheelset has alloy nipples which have severely corroded.  It needs rebuilt with brass nipples.

However, my LBS can't get the spokes out.  The nipples are too disintegrated to turn, but not disintegrated enough to just crumble to dust and release the spokes.

The LBS says the only option is to cut and replace the spokes.  This will be expensive (multiples of the cost of a simple rebuild using existing spokes).

My questions are:

Any suggestions how to get the spokes out?
Specifically, are there any chemical tricks to accelerate the corrosion and entirely dissolve what remains of the nipples (without damaging the rims or spokes).

The wheelset has carbon rims, steel spokes, high-end straight-pull hubs, and alloy nipples.


texts: Evidence on "Uglify Your Bike: Effective Theft Deterrent?"

texts:
Does anyone have any evidence that uglyfying does or does not work as a theft deterrent? It doesn't have to be scientific: even anecdotal evidence helps (and maybe well-founded opinions)?

This question was originally part of this one but I was asked to separate it.


texts: Is their a particular term for "standing" while cycling, and how is it done?  I've never been able to manage it, nor for that matter, flinging my leg over the saddle while the bike is still in motion, when the ride comes to an end.


texts:
I am Fabrizio, completely new in this forum full of experts, considering myself somebody who wants to take his very first steps at biking on the roads. I started to live in the Netherlands since 2 months ago and I completely fell in love with bikes. Now I really want to buy a good bike for biking on the roads but, being 100% Dutch (e.g. direct ;)), I do not know where to start from.

I would like to ride the bike twice or thrice a week, to make exercise. Considering the fact that I have a knee injury, this is the only sport I can do without getting damaged, besides swimming (but it bores me). It really motivates me the idea of travelling very long distances across the Netherlands, enjoying the landscapes, and eventually carry some things with me. As for me, I am 1,85m and my current weight is 82kg.

I have done some research and there are the so called touring bikes. The drawback I find on them is that they are not so fast, but on the other hand you can easily add some panniers and carry almost whatever you want.

On the other side, race bikes are lightweight, fast, dynamic but you cannot carry anything on them. It's just you, maybe your phone and pocket, and that's it. Please, correct me if I am wrong. Is it possible to add some racks and panniers on them?

So to wrap it up, I honestly do not know where to start from and what to buy. It would be nice to hear so experienced opinions about this topic based on your thoughts and beliefs.

Thanks for helping me out! Looking forward to hear from you.

Edit:
I will provide a little bit of more information, as @john suggested:

The idea is to bike mostly on-road, and eventually off-road. This means that almost 80% of my distance will be covered on routes, but I would not like to get in troubles if I face off-roads.
I need to try drop handlebards. Honestly I do not know. I do not want to bike in a uncomfortable position, that for sure.
I think I need to be able to fit mudguards.
My budget goes up to 3000 euros.


texts: Why isn't my quill stem controlling the front wheel of my bike?

texts:
Please excuse me if some of my terminology is off. I don't know much about bikes.
When I came home from college I noticed that the seat of my bike was way to high and the headset was really low, I have a old style quil stem head set,. So I decided to raise the headset. When I raised the headset I did not know that I was not supposed to completely remove the headset stem bolt. I tried screwing it back in but it doesn't work. So now the headset does not control the front wheel, and I have no idea how to fix it. Can someone PLEASE help me!!! I also have a question, why is it that when I hit the bicycle stem bolt with a hammer it fixes it but only for a short time period?


texts:
My crappy bike (Aldo Cadenazzi) was squeaking for the last two days. Then today the stem broke. Luckily I was very slow when it happened.

How can I fix it? I have read a little bit about threadless and threaded stems, but I am not sure if a threadless stem will fit to this old bike. (I am not even sure if it is worth it)


texts: Safest position to ride on roads with cars

texts:
What is a hard and fast rule on where to ride within a lane, if one exists at all?

I've heard people say that you should ride as far over as you can while avoiding drains, potholes, small children etc.. and keeping out of the way of motorists. I have also read that further out into the lane is safer causing motorists to give you a wider berth and increasing your visibility.

Which is correct and are there any meaningful statistics to be found?

Related: Best ways to avoid getting hit by cars?


texts: Unable to shift to lower gears; Shimano 6 speed SIS rear deraillers

texts:
Presently I'm able to ride my bike only in 5th and 6th gears. I cannot turn the shifter (it's too tight) to move the chain to lower gears. The low stop-screw is all right and it was working till yesterday and I did not make any adjustments to it.. But unable to use the shifter to do that as the cable is too tight to be pulled and I'm afraid of breaking the cable.

Any ideas where the problem is?


texts: Does stripe in Selle Italia saddles form a channel?

texts:
NOTE -- I am NOT asking about saddles with hole (cutout).

Some saddles from Selle Italia have very distinctive stripe, take for example Selle Italia SL:

The question is -- does such stripe form some kind of channel? I.e. is the area softer (here it is denoted by black) than the rest of the saddle (here in white)? Or maybe it is embedded (the surface is lower than the rest of the saddle)?


texts: How to disassemble a Topeak JoeBlow Sport II

texts:
OK... I searched everywhere, could not find  a definitive answer.

I've had the pump a few years and use it a lot on several bikes.   I like my pump and want it to last as long as possible and I'd like to clean and re-grease its innards as a preventive measure,  the o-ring specifically but I cannot get to it.... I'm afraid I'll break it

Can anyone tell me how to get the cap off without breaking it?  or is there another way?  It's a JoeBlow Sport II (the yellow one)

Thanks in advance


texts: What's the difference between Weldtite Dirtwash citrus de-greaser spray and the WD40 chain de-greaser?

texts:
I m planning buying a chain degreaser for my bike,  I gone to two bike shops and they sell different brand of degreaser.
First bike shop i went to is the shop where I got my ATX fromand He sells wd40 chain degreaser, the second shop i went to they sells some weltite brand lubes and dirtwash cirtus degreaser.
I m wondering if there is any difference in performance between these two degreaser.
I have used the WD 40 Chain degreaser before and it performed really well, but I havent tried the Dirtwash Citrus degreaser spray and i wanted to see which one worth buying.


texts: What fork size is 32mm (inside diameter on the frame) considered?

texts:
Good day, I'm new to the whole bike building process, but I've finally decided to make the step and build a semi-nice bike.

I've bought a really nice aluminium frame 2nd hand, but its sizing has me stumped. The inside diameter of the front part of the frame (where the front fork goes in) is ~32mm. I've been searching online (e.g. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html) for a couple of days, but I cannot understand what type of fork I should get.

Should I get an 1 1/8", 1.5" or some other type of fork?

EDIT: After some investigation, the bike frame is an Alpinestar Almega DX, the same as in this picture  I couldn't find any specs though :(

Here is what I measured, when I said it was ~32mms (apparently it's the headset, not the pipe itself). The other end is the same size.

Thanks!


texts:
My CAAD9 is fairly slow to stop. I read that giving the brake pads more travel can help — ie: making it so that you have farther to squeeze.

How can I do it with this brake setup?


texts: Hub grease, white grease, red grease or buy grease?

texts:
As i'm going to overhaul my hubs, i'm looking for the right grease for the job.
The easy way would be going to a shop and buy some dedicated grease.

But searching through my garage, I found that i already have two types of grease.

Rivolta S.K.D. 4002 -even found a pdf - http://www.nescotech.ee/358eng.pdf
Some unknown red colored grease (not original package), only thing I know about it is that i got it from a factory that is making taps and metal tubing with high pressure press machinery, and it was standing in a cabinet outside in the sun heat and winter cold for 15 years, and it has decomposed a tiny bit.

both have almost same thickness, the red one is slightly thinner (estimated by eye and touch).

I know you can't use any grease you want, so here I am asking for your opinion.


texts:
Can I fit a 34.9mm front Shimano derailleur on my steel frame? I understand that steel frames are narrower. However, is there some sort of adapter that I can use, or can I even wrap the frame around there with some inner tubes to "fatten" it up? Will this be sufficiently stable?

Any thoughts will be appreciated, thanks.


texts: How much does tire pressure affect the weight of the wheels

texts:
Kind of inspired by this question, but something I've been thinking about for a while.

How much does the air in a bike tire weigh?  Is it an appreciable amount? Is there a point where using a wider tire, like at 28c at 80 psi would be lighter than a 25c tire at 100psi? Obviously, this depends on the specific tires used.  I don't have a scale precise enough to measure, and I don't have the math/physics knowledge to figure this out.


texts: Marin Fairfax Alp 2011 - Can I fit a 11-32t Cassette

texts:
I currently have a Shimano LG50 12-25t 8 speed cassette and am finding it a real struggle on steep hills - I am around 13 stone (82kg). This is the first time I have looked at changing the original gear ratios on any bike I have owned.

I want to change to the 11-32t or another cassette but I am wondering if I need a new chain i.e. to lengthen it and also if the rear mech is OK. I ask this as stuff on the interweb says both can possibly be an issue. I believe there may be normal and long leg versions.

The rear derailleur is the original Shimano Sora 8 Speed Rear Derailleur (GS Long Cage).

Current chain is the Shimano Altus HG40 6-7-8 Speed Chain.

Crankset is Truvativ Touro 52-42-30t.

Using the link below it says the rear derailleur will take 37T to 39T or less.
So the current cassette is (25-12) + (52-30) =35T
11-28 is (28-11) + (52-30) = 39T
11-30 is (30-11) + (52-30) = 41T
11-32 is (32-11) + (52-30) = 43T

From this it looks like my only option is the 11-28, which would only give a minimal improvement. Am i wasting my time trying to fix this particular bike as it stands?????

Thanks in anticipation. Kev

Many thanks to you all for your responses. I hope I have learnt a lot around this area and it sounds like I was hoping to achieve too much. I have ordered a 11-28t cassette and new chain as this stays within the guidelines from Shimano for the Sora rear mech. I will be v interested to see the difference it makes.

As suggested by someone, I did a lot of shopping around for a slightly smaller 5 bolt chain ring than the 30T that's on there, but hit a massive blank in finding a Truvativ ring that was smaller. Thanks again to all......UR*s


texts:
This question, What's the cause of the tyre cut, got me wondering if there is anything that can, or should, be done to repair small cuts in the tread of a tire. As I was looking at the damage to the tire it seemed like a bit of Shoe Goo or a similar substance might help to keep the tire from picking up other foreign material that might either work its way into causing a puncture or further damage the tire in some way.

Or is there nothing worth doing for a small cut like that?


texts: Where can I find vintage hardware to mount a Raleigh 3 bolt chainring?

texts:
I need hardware (3 short bolts) for my Raleigh Super Course 10 speed made in Nottingham England in 1973.

The bolts hold the front large chainring to the smaller chainring that the pedals are mounted to.   Can these bolts be purchased?


texts: securing disk brakes against theft in a low-visibility locked bike room

texts:
I have once again had my disk brake stolen on my bike in my apartment building.  Being a high rise they forbid us taking bikes up in the elevator (and I don't really have the space to store it anyway).  But they don't put any camera in the locked bike room.

So, people from the building can just go in at night and take out the brakes.  The first time (different building), it was the whole wheel and the brake.  This time, they left the wheel alone, but took out the brake handle, cable and the clamp.  It's incredibly annoying to replace a $150 part every time some loser decides to steal in his own building.

What are some possible strategies to deter that?  Locking the wheel would be an option, using an extra lock.  But I don't think it would stop someone from just removing the brake components.

I have had a suggestion for non-standard fixation bolts.  Also, Deterrents against partial (component) theft they suggest gluing the parts together.  Or soldering in the head of the bolts.

It's a nice, but old-ish bike that I don't intend to sell - I don't mind scuffing it up a bit to secure the brakes.

Any suggestions?  Keeping in mind that it should stop someone from easily ripping off the brakes in a 15-30 minute time frame, using regular tools.  i.e. just get the loser to steal from another unsecured bike.

Another would be to install a spy camera and catch the person in the act.  That might work, but they could also steal the camera if they see it.  And it's a 400-500 person building, no guarantee they are easily recognizable.

Or a sound alarm.  But the bike can easily be jostled by someone just trying to get at his own bike in the next rack over.

In any case, the solution only really needs to work in my building, so it can be fairly heavy, as long as I can just leave it on my assigned bike rack.


texts: Get a tougher gear on Shimano GRX, 11-34T, 2x11

texts:
I have a new 2021 Cube Nuroad Race gravel bike with Shimano GRX, 11-34T, 2x11.
I am used to riding a road bike, and find on the new one I don't need the easiest gears on the hills, but could use a tougher gear on the downhill as I can't get any power down when descending. (I have switched the 40mm tyres for 32mm tyres while the weather is still not half bad in the UK).
I have never messed about with the cassette on a bike, switching gears etc, and was wondering how to go about it. Do I need to buy a whole new cassette? What cassettes are suitable and compatible?
Thanks
Edit:
Some useful suggestions. For more information, it is not just pedalling down serious slopes that I run out of gears, but on not very steep descents and occasionally on the flat if my speed is up. Though it seems what I need is to switch out the chain rings.


texts:
I am living in the UK and in this situation (sorry for my bad drawing):

The bike (the dot in front) wants to do a u-turn and needs to signal to the car (the dot behind). If the bike does not signal, the car will not slow down and my hit the bike.
How can I signal a u-turn? I was thinking about putting my hand behind me but that may not be obvious for road users.


texts: Can I attach SRAM trigger shifters to a 31.8mm braze on adapter?

texts:
I noticed that Paul's Components make an adapter that enables SRAM shifters to be mounted to a road bar by exploiting the Matchmaker system. I live in England so anything from Paul's is très expensive, and I cant help but think... isn't it just an appropriately sized clamp with a screw thread? therefore can't any 31.8mm braze on adapter for front mechs be used in the same way?

My overall aim get a 10 speed shifter onto my bullhorn bars, and I have some time trial brakes already so cant use bar end shifters. The appearance is very important to me, I don't want anything that looks messy or completely bodged which is why I don't want to have multiple bar ends or anything.


texts: Can I use any screw for my derailleur limiters?

texts: I need new limit screws for my rear and front derailleur. Bike shop wants to charge $5 for them when they probably cost $0.05 each. Can I just get my own screws from the hardware store or do derailleurs require specific screws? If the former, what measurements/etc should I look for as far as the shaft and threads are concerned? Also, what kind of thread locker should I get?


texts:
I've recently started working on retrofitting an old bike with an even older weed-eater engine.  The engine will sit atop a bicycle rack and directly drive the rear wheel tire (engine has a built-in clutch).  I've already constructed the engine mount and obtained other hardware. http://imgur.com/a/we3bn

My concern is that once I get moving (maybe 15-20mph) the chain will be moving so fast around that tiny sprocket that it will come off.


texts:
I'm planning in braving the harsh Canadian winter for my daily work commutes via bike. I currently have this nylon jacket, I was wondering if this would be adequate protection? Possibly with an additional layer or two underneath.

Also how would drywick cycling pants fair? Is breathability a bad thing in winter temperatures?


texts: Shimano MTB and Road Components Compatibility

texts:
What chain would be suitable for a drive train that uses a Deore SL-T610 right shifter, Deore RD-T610-SGS derailleur, 105 CS-5700 10-speed cassette (11t-28t), and 105 FC-5700 crankset? According to the Shimano compatibility chart, The RD-T610 is compatible with the 105 CS-5700. It's also stated that you can use the following chains:

CN-M981
CN-M980
CN-HG95
CN-HG94
CN-HG75
CN-HG74
CN-HG54

But when I look at the crankset and chain compatibility, the only chains compatible with that crankset are:

CN-7901
CN-6701
CN-5701
CN-4601

The inner ring of the 5700 crankset will be removed as it will be a 1x10 setup. Would the chains that are compatible with the derailleur/cassette combination work with the crankset?


texts: Pass in the Alps that can be crossed by mountain bike?

texts:
I'm looking for a pass in the Alps that I can cross with my mountain bike. I know that if there's a road, I could just use it, but my question is a little bit more special.

I'm looking for a pass that isn't very busy, for example if the main road uses a tunnel to cross the pass. Additionally, it should be worth the effort, e.g. because of the great view and landscape.


texts: I have a few questions about frame repair, seat adjustments, and rims.

texts:
My bike is a Trek 1100 Aluminum Frame

My bike has a few dings and scratched in the frame, and I want to get rid of them. So I was thinking I could get a powder coat or something to get a new paint job on there. I want to cover up the dings, but also get a new color on there like  bright green. Can I do that? If so would they go over the label and somehow out one back on or would they not put one back on? What is the price for that kind of thing too?
I was looking at some new colorful rims, and some said "single speed". What does that mean on a rim?
My bike is a Trek 1100 aluminum frame, so many of the adjustments are hex wrenches/Allan wrenches. The seat is also that way. So my question is, can I somehow put the modern seat adjuster on it? Like fit the clamp on there in a way it would stay, or is the seat post a little too small to do that?


texts: What cantilever brakes are compatible with Surly Pugsley 100mm front fork?

texts:
I just purchased a Surly Pugsley project bike.  The front hub isn't set up for a disc brake so I'm looking to install a cantilever brake.  It has 65mm large marge rims.  I've scoured the internets and haven't found a recommendation for non disc brakes for the pugsley.

What cantilever brakes are compatible/recommended for use with Surly Pugsley 100mm front fork and the larger marge rim?


texts: Can I use a spoke tension meter to fix my uneven pre-tensioning prior to truing?

texts:
I've managed to lace up the wheel I’m building, however I think I've managed to unevenly tension the non drive side as a few spokes aren't as tight as others.

If I get a tension meter, I can go round the wheel and more easily fix it, right?

Am I correct in assuming if I get the spoke tension even, it will be easier to true?


texts: Mechanic says not to use top three/bottom two gears or the chain will throw

texts:
I just bought a BTwin Fit 5, all stock, fresh from the distributor, Decathlon. Took it for light pacing at the store and things seemed OK. About 100 metres out the door, I shift up to the top end of the range, pedalling firmly but not hard, and it promptly throws the chain to the outside.

Returning to the store, the mechanic puts the chain back on, adjusts the tension on the derailleurs and tells me not to use the top three or bottom two gears (i.e., the 3 highest resistance and two lowest resistance shift positions in the drive train's range), or the chain will throw again. I asked why, but unfortunately, I'm a foreigner and don't speak the local language well enough to understand any of his explanation. Please note I definitely did not misunderstand the bit about not using the gears; this was crystal clear.

Wild speculations on what he may have said about the reasons for this:

Chain tension or play due to the lateral shift between the inner and outer gears of the front and rear cassettes when shifting
Chain length
Something about the derailleurs

Again, there's a substantial language barrier and I have zero confidence in my understanding of what he said about why I shouldn't use those gears.

If you're not familiar with Decathlon, it's a sports department/box/super store. Definitely not a high end or dedicated bike shop. The house mechanic struck me as less than an expert, to put it gently. I've definitely read some reviews online griping about the inability of Decathlon staff to correctly set up the drive trains of new bikes. However, it's important to understand that this quality of expertise is representative of (or better than) that of every shop within an hour's travel.

This advice seems utterly mad to me. What on earth could be the reasoning behind this? What can I do about it? Aside from the obvious of taking it to a better mechanic, as that presents substantial difficulty for me on a number of fronts. The bike shifts without a problem, including before the throw. I did test out every gear during my test ride. I haven't yet experimented with trying to reproduce the problem yet; I'll do so in the next few days most likely.

The bike has a Shimano Sora groupset and Shimano Deore shifters. I'm an experienced rider but no mechanic; I haven't done anything beyond basic maintenance myself. I can provide additional pictures and am game to make relatively minor adjustments, but even just clearly nailing down the issue would be considerably useful.

Additional pictures, shifted to big-big.


texts: Is cranking bigger gear from dead stop bad for your legs?

texts:
So I don't have lots of money and just recently the bb on my vintage tube shifter 2x6 road bike broke and I have to make do with a slightly too long bb and mtb cranks because it's what I have.
Anyway before I can replace the bb and cranks, I'll have to make do with the big chain ring in the front (48) and the 4 heaviest gears at the back to prevent cross chaining. I find myself going usually on the two middle gears.
When stopping at a red light, I don't change gears, but just crank it up slowly while standing until I got to my desired cadence and then sit, though sometimes I got a little excited and sprinted away.
I've heard that climbing in too heavy gears can damage your legs, so is this practically the same? will I damage my legs doing it this way? I don't feel pain or anything, but just in case.


texts: Free Spirit "Brittany Te12" Part Identification/Upgrade

texts:
i found this old 12 speed basically attached to a neighbor's back porch by vines, and aside from some superficial rust on the chrome, it seems to be structurally intact. the decals read as stated in the title and also indicate that it was sold by Sears Roebuck and made in Taiwan.
a photo album of the bicycle and closeups of parts is available here.
i can't find any reliable documentation specifying the parts currently installed, but as far as i can tell from googling, it appears to have:

a very noisy, threaded, adjustable cup-and-cone BB. resource
a cottered crank, which was loose, and upon tightening, became crooked. resource
a "Falcon XT" rear derailleur with little remaining spring tension.
a "Falcon" front derailleur with little remaining spring tension.
a 126QR bolt-on, drop-out rear hub, based off of ~126mm measurement. resource
a bolt-on, drop-out front hub that i could not identify (nothing found with ~88mm measurement).

i would like to replace most of these with modern equivalents that fit with minimal/no modification. (e.g., a non-cottered crank, quick-release hubs, common derailleurs, etc.)
the only resource i could find with something specific was this Reddit post where someone claimed to replace the BB with a Shimano UN-55.


texts: I have very little knowledge when it comes to bicycles and how they work. With that being said, I have a Giant Cypress Hybrid. It is a great bike for the most part. I'm looking to get a little more top end speed out of it. When I'm on a paved trail, its simply nkt fast enough for me. Another gear or two would be great. Is it possible to just replace the rear cassette,  or do you have to do something to the front as well?


texts:
I bought a belt driven bike which had had the rear triangle of the frame moderately bent (i.e. bent but no tubes collapsed or cracked) – it was a gamble as to whether it’s fixable….  It has a Nuvinci 330 hub with disc brakes which requires a large 135mm dropout spacing.

The frame is made of steel and I’ve been able to bend it to near alignment.  However, as I don’t have a reference bike to compare measurements from, I’m struggling to figure out whether I’ve aligned it properly or not.

Firstly I aligned it based on the string test (Sheldon web page and also a Youtube video) so that the distance between the string and the seat tube frame member was equal both sides.  I got this right to within 1mm and was happy with myself.

But then I dropped in the rear hub and tried to pedal it.  It turned but it was making a noise which wasn’t very happy and you could tell the hub wasn’t aligned with the pedal wheel, with the belt rubbing as it seated itself on the gearwheels.

So then I bent the frame some more and now turning the pedals works really well and looks like it’s all fitting nicely, however if I do the string test there’s around a 6mm difference in the distance between the string and the frame between the two sides.  However if I measure distance from each rear axle end to the same point on the headset it’s the same distance within measurement error, so I think the axle is sitting perpendicularly to the line of the frame.

So the question is this.   Does all of the above mean my frame is bent in some way where I just won’t be able to fix it?  The bottom bracket is one of those split types so that you can tension the belt – it looks horrifically weak structurally to my eye and it may well be that the bottom bracket axis is no longer perpendicular to the frame plane which I doubt I could fix.  Or maybe a 6mm difference in the string test is not enough to worry about?  Or are some frames deliberately made so that the string test should not return the same measurement which would mean that the way I have it now is perfect?

Thanks in advance for any help.

PS.  I am waiting for a rim before I can restring the rear wheel and this is taking a while to arrive – hence I’ve not been able to ride it to see how it feels.


texts: Why are so many ramps on dropbars tilted downwards?

texts:
When looking at drop handlebars, it's noticable that most ramps are tilted downwards. I find that rather uncomfortable for my hands as they slide down into the hoods of the brake levers and get squeezed into that v-shaped valley where the ramps meet the hoods.
While I much more prefer almost horizontal ramps, I'm sure there must be some reasoning behind this.


texts: Should I restore my old mt-bike for winter commuting (and for wife to ride with me) or throw it away?

texts:
One year ago I moved to Boston and my father-in-law gave me his old Specialized mountain bike. He is a road bike guy so this bike was left aside for the longest time. It was in a decent shape. The only money I spent on it was for some lights, one tire and two tubes. I commuted to work (3 miles total) every single day: with sun, rain or snow. But (unfortunately) I didn't take care of it at all. And now the bike is in a really bad shape. Chains, front/rear derailleurs and cassette are all SUPER rusty. And both breaks are also gone. For my birthday I bought a new bike (Specialized Sirrus Comp) but I don't want to ride it in the snow.

So I decided to restore the old one. The idea was to slowly restore this bike with decent parts, ride it during the winter and take care of it, and after that, I'd have a spare bike that my wife could use.

First step: brakes. They were REALLY bad, so I bought new v-brakes from Amazon (Shimano Acera Mountain Bicycle V-Brake / $23) and I tried to install them. It didn't go well because I also need new cables. Because of that, I got really frustrated and I completely disassembled the bike and there's no turning back.

Here is my question: should I do that or not? This is the list of parts I will probably have to buy in order to put the bike back in the streets:

Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set - $14
Shimano Stainless Steel Shift Cable - $9
Shimano Tourney 6/7-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - $13
Shimano FD-TX50 Tourney Front Derailleur - $11
Shimano Tourney Shift Lever SL-RS45 - $16
New chain - $10

Am I missing something?? I should probably buy new wheels but I can certainly wait.

So the total cost would be: $96. The (ideal) final result would be an old but decent Specialized frame (it's the only part that's not rusted) with brand new entry-level Shimano parts. This sounds better than a department store bike.

Is it stupid to do that considering I have no idea how to put everything back together (Youtube will help me)?


texts: Just bought a Nicol bike and not sure who makes them

texts:
I just bought a road bike and the only logo on it is Nicol, does anyone have a clue who made this bike and what it’s worth?

Thanks


texts:
I have a limited budget, and I've never bought a new bicycle before.

However, I just bought a 24" Giant XTC from a very bicycle-inept person who's kid had only used it a couple of months.

Anyway, I checked the hubs (which were essentially new), and they were both significantly overtightened, with heavy though "uniform" indexing. Having my cone wrenches with me, I adjusted them, and they spun very nicely. I figured there wasn't damage, so I bought the bike.

Point is, it seems like the hubs were originally tuned in that over-tight fashion.

Is this normal?

UPDATE:

I took the hubs apart. It all looked great inside except for the embarrassing fact that one side of the rear hub had only six balls instead of nine. Ouch, Giant.


texts: How should I select front and rear gears?

texts:
Just bought a Falcon Interceptor bike with Shimano gears - whatever that means.
I've had bikes in the past but only those with one set of gears for the rear wheel.

What's the need for front and rear gears? What should I be doing with them?

What are the front gears for? What should I be considering when selecting front gears and rear gears? Are they (front and rear gears) interdependent or independent?


texts: Can anyone identify this Tandem bike I restored from a junk yard?

texts: This is a bike that I rescued from an abandoned junk yard in central California. It was terribly rusted, and I think I am crazy for spending the amount of time and money I did to restore it. I often wish that I would have just walked right on by it! It had remnants of rubbery decals on it, but they were far unreadable. The gear changer says "FALCON" on it. Unfortunately that is the only thing with a name on the bike. Does anybody know what this bike is? Or perhaps how old it may be?


texts:
I am renovating a bike, I guess it's 10 years old. It has internal gears with pedal brake. And then it has a hand brake in the front, I think it is called "cantilever direct pull". One arm was moving quite smooth, while the other was very stuck, tough not impossible to move by hand.

In the process of removing the arm from the brake boss, something remained on the boss: some kind of brass-looking bushing with a kind of rubber gasket.

The brass part was almost impossible to remove. I tried different things. And only in the end when I took a 60cm pipe wrench was I able to wiggle it off.

I felt victorious until I realized that the power needed to clamp around the bushing was enough to deform the boss itself. So now I have a slightly oval boss, just enough to notice with the naked eye. The internal threading is now too tight, but it is possible to put in the bolts though. The real problem is putting a new brake arm on the bushing. I cant even get in one millimeter onto the boss.

Picture above shows: Bushing stuck on boss

Picture above shows: The other boss, where the bushing easily slid off together with the arm

Picture above shows: After removal of the bushing, the boss is slightly oval

My question is two-fold:

1) How should I have removed the bushing, without damaging the boss.

2) How can I fix the boss now, so that I can put a new brake arm on it?


texts: When cycling my bottom bracket sometimes starts to make a clunking noise, I can get rid of the noise normally by doing one or two strong pedal strokes. Is this anything serious does the bracket need to be looked at?


texts: Another (?) which-frame-size-to-choose post

texts:
Unfortunately in my home country (a small tropical island) I can't find a reseller that has stock of an adventure bike (also known as gravel bike).  I am about to order one online, but I am stuck on the frame size. I would like your opinion on whether you would lean towards the smaller of the two or the bigger.  I have included a picture of the geometry of the bike, the sizing chart of the manufacturer (red line is my height) as well as my size (as measured with instructions from competitivecyclist[.com]).

I want to use it for commuting (on tarmac), weekend rides (80km at around 30-35km/h) as well as multi-day bike packing rides (unpaved roads).

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

Measurements    CM

Actual Inseam 87.5
Trunk 59.5
Forearm   34.5
Arm   66.5
Thigh 62.5
Lower Leg 58
Sternal Notch 151.5
Total Height  184

EDIT
Thanks CardMechanic (I am not yet allowed to comment on your answer below).  Would trying another bike (a road bike) really be representative for this particular bike I am considering?  The geometry would be quite different right?


texts: How to alter a sports cycle to avoid wheel bend

texts: I have a Hero Hawk Nu-Age, which I bought it two years back. In India, this cycle was mostly used for sports. As this cycle has very thin wheels 27 * 1-1/4, I could not ride this on bumpy roads for long time. Whenever I drive on a bumpy road, the wheels bend and had to be corrected. So now I decided to get the cycle replaced with Shimano tyres and get the drop-down racing style handlebar replaced with straight handlebar. Can anyone please suggest or guide me on this.


texts: Which type lockring removal tool do I need

texts:
I'm trying to learn DIY cassette removal as I want to swap one on a buckled wheel. I have another cassette which uses an FR5 but it doesn't fit this one.

When checking this site it looks like it's a HCW-17 tool but specifically mentions that's for single speed bikes which this is not.  It also says it should have 2-8 splines but mine (and the one in the picture on the site) has 9 splines.

This tool is a fair bit more expensive than the FR-5 tool so I just want to make sure it's the right one before I go ahead.

Any help would be appreciated


texts: Adding a larger chain-set to a mountain bike

texts:
Can i replace a 24/34/42 MTB chainset with a 24/38/48 MTB chainset while still using the same 7 speed cassett, chain and shifters.
My old mountain bike from the 90s had 24/38/48 MTB chainset and when i stood up and pedaled on flat roads i could get to 40mpg while now on my 2019 29er with 24/34/42 MTB chainset & 12-32 7 speed cassett i struggle to reach 30pmg while pedalling like crazy
EDITED: So it appears, i have a Formula DC22 rear hub, not sure if this help anyone to tell me if a 11-28 cassette will fit on it. Trek say i need to buy a whole new back wheel if i want to change the cassette. Here are some images of back wheel and cassette.


texts:
A total newbie here. I'm planning to upgrade a single speed to geared one road/tour bike. I haven't decided the gear system though. I guess I'll decide that upon availability of the parts.

Well, I am looking for a budget but reliable alternative to Shimano brand gears.

I live in India. Can anyone suggest some other brands? Also are there any local companies?


texts: Repetitive strain injury risk, seated vs standing on pedals

texts:
At the same cadence and torque, and hence at the same power output, which generally presents the lower repetitive strain injury risk: pedalling seated, or out of the saddle?

How does the distribution of forces on the body and the risk of injury change as force on the pedals goes up, both for seated and for out of the seat cycling?

For an aging recreational cyclist, with no great need to sprint, is it always the better choice to downshift and remain in the saddle, rather than to get up and stand on the pedals?

(Edited: made clear I'm interested in repetitive strain injuries specifically, rather than injury in general. Apologies to those who answered with respect to general injury risk - these answers are interesting, but not what I was looking for)


texts:
Going over the lower jockey wheel (see first picture), my chain rubs against the inboard side of the cage and sometimes snags.  It is a brand new derailleur (Shimano Acera M360) and a new derailleur hanger.  I've tried adjusting the cable tension, the limit screws, and the B screw, but none of those seems to affect it.
I've also noticed that the chain twists a bit between the front chain ring and the rear derailleur (2nd photo), but I'm not sure if the two are related.  Any suggestions are appreciated.

Chain against the left (inner) side of the cage.

Chain twisting between the front chainring and rear jockey wheel.


texts: Can I swap BMX wheels for a larger size?

texts: I am a 5 foot 10 inches 14 year old boy who would like to get into riding a BMX. So if I was to buy a BMX with a certain size wheels, can you swap them for bigger wheels


texts: Easiest bicycle to assemble? Single speed?

texts:
I have an XC MTB, a road bike and a trainer, which I maintain.
I also do maintenance for the kids and wife's bikes.

Today I replaced a cassette in my road bike - something that required special tools but was rather easy.

I think I might be ready for the next level - to put a whole bike together.

I'm thinking a single speed (freewheel or switchable) would be the easiest to build, perhaps with a front brake only - get a frame, ready made wheels, hubs, chain, sprockets etc and I should be good to go?

Am I being too optimistic? What it the hardest part of building a bicycle?


texts:
I am wondering if I would be able to run the 105 5800 crankset with my 9 speed ultegra 5600 shifters/rd?  I don't have the funds to do the whole groupset at once, and I believe upgrading to 11 speed would also mean that I need to get a new rear wheel.

Some more info / related questions:  I have an 05 roubaix that has Ultegra 5600 Brakes/shifters and cassette/RD, and an fsa gossamer 52/39 crankset.  the front derailleur has 3 positions although I just have 2 chainrings.  the front derailleur shifts pretty terribly and the chain drops frequently when i shift down.  do most front derailleurs have 3 positions even when there are only 2 chainrings?  I set it up so that I can use the middle position to get away with some cross-chaining, but should I be doing this at all?


texts: Are bananas still a good food to carry when cycling?

texts:
I am very much an old school cyclist and I always carry a banana with me when I go on rides longer than an hour.  In the past I have found them ideal - they easily fit in my jersey pockets, the wrapping is biodegradable (if I accidentally drop it when riding), high source of potassium to stop muscle cramp.

Should I change my ways and ditch the bended yellow pill for a more modern fare?


texts: Is the Suunto Ambit compatible with the Bontrager DuoTrap Digital Speed/Cadence Sensor?

texts:
Bontrager DuoTrap is ANT+ compatible as well as the Suunto Ambit (with firmare 2.0 or greater).

Since it's not possible to find any proof of concept on the internet (specialized sites, forums, etc...) about the compatibility of these two devices, is it possible to know of some of you guys got this working?


texts: Front drum (was disc) brake only works when going backwards (!)

texts:
I am restoring my old bike that hasn't been used for quite a while. The rear brake works fine, however, the front brake has an issue: It only brakes when the bicycle is going backwards, not forwards!

I have no idea how that is even possible - but it shows that at least it can't be the handle or the wire. Something broken inside the brake perhaps?

I attached a picture of the brake for clarity. Any suggestions on how this is possible and if it can be fixed?


texts: What's the difference between a Cannondale F29 Carbon 3 and a Cannondale F29 *Flash* Carbon 3?

texts:
I'm trying to decide on a mountain bike and I've short-listed the Cannondale F29 Carbon 3.

Some bike shops are listing them as F29 Carbon 3 Flash and some just as F29 Carbon 3.

They're both the same RRP, but the specs differ.  I know my question is what's the difference and I'm now saying that the specs differ, but I'm no expert on the parts used.

So, is one better than the other or are they just different/equivalent parts of roughly equal cost?


texts: Will my chain line be affected if I use a BB386EVO crankset on a standard cartridge BSA frame?

texts:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324064544587

FSA sells this which allows you to use BB386 cranks with BSA frames. Is the offset different enough between the two standards to cause problems with my chain line? I'm talking about the classic cartridge style BSA not the outboard BSA in case there is a difference. If there is a BB offset chart somewhere out there it would be super helpful as well.


texts: Restoring/modernizing an old cheap(ish) bike

texts:
tl;dr;? Just see bullet points below...

My mom recently gave my wife her old Raleigh Horizon bike.  She must have gotten it around the year 1990, and there's no way she spent much on it (she's kinda cheap).

I don't know much about bike's - I mean I rode them every day of my life as a kid, but I never really got into the nitty gritty details of a repair or upgrade.  My plan with this Raleigh, is to repaint it, which shouldn't be a problem.  However, I also wanted to replace the cables and shifters if possible since it's disassembled already.  Possibly the cassettes, too.

Finding information on an old cheapo bike like this is kinda hard.  Most Youtube videos are for hardcore guys who are all about their $1000+ bikes (probably you guys lol).

I basically want to get my wife a bike that works well but isn't going to cost me more than $100 (USD).  I have the bike, it technically works, but the chain does slip off when shifting a lot and these shifters need to pressed pretty hard to make them do anything.  They're also slightly rusted.

I've already disassembled the entire thing to prepare it to be painted.  I just want to reassemble it with some new parts to make it better...

My questions are:

Are brake cables and shift cables the same? On Amazon I see most are sold as "shift" or "brake" cables but they seem the same to me...
What type of cables would an older bike like this need if I wanted to replace them (and maybe upgrade, if not too expensive)?
Can you recommend a set of sprockets (or cassettes) that would allow the shifting to work better.  Nothing extreme, just simple but decent ones... if that's a thing :)
Can you recommend a set of shifters?
Is there any other inexpensive upgrade that you might recommend?

Thank you!  Sorry for the noob questions

UPDATE: updated the terminology to be correct (I think).  Thanks @ojs :)


texts: Shoe covers (or other tricks) for commuting in shorts

texts:
I commute to work by bike, very often in casual shorts and waterproof North Face sneakers. Provided I don't want to change my clothes (in particular I don't want to get SPD etc.), is there a good way to keep my feet dry when it's raining?

In particular, would shoe covers be of any help? My impression is that most of the rain gets into my sneakers by streaming down along my ankles/socks, which is why I have doubts if shoes covers would be of any help when I cycle in shorts (but I've never really used them so please correct me if I'm wrong).

In case it's of any importance - if I wear the same clothes and just go for a walk/jog, then my feet stay dry for much longer. Ideal solution would allow my feet to stay dry for a similar amount of time when I cycle.


texts: I need to change my bike from UK to US Spec

texts:
I bought a bike from the UK.  The brakes and shifters are on the opposite sides.  I want to change it so the front brake is on the left and the rear is on the right,  Same thing for the shifters.

I have Drop bars and Ultegra Shifters.  Is this a difficult project?

Thanks,

John


texts: Why are there almost no bikes with a single chainring?

texts: Bikes with two or three chainrings are the norm, and then there are singlespeeds, but except for kids' bikes, you see almost no stock bikes with a single chainring in front but a cassette and derailleur in the back. It seems like for a lot of people this would be a nice balance with respect to simplicity, weight, maintenance, so why are there so few?


texts:
I recently bought a BMX bike that currently has all stock parts. Recently, with the school and weather, I haven't been able to ride it that much. Anyways, when I picked it up from the shop, the bars were positioned leaning forward, not parallel with the forks, so I adjusted them.

After playing around on the bike a bit, I noticed that the bars would slip forward if I put a good bit of pressure on them, so I completely removed the bars. In the stem there was a lube, I guess for the screws, which I mostly wiped off because I figured that wasn't helping the slippage. I also tightened the bolts pretty tight, and I had to use a hex wrench + a cheater bar to get them pretty snug... I could go further, but I don't want to snap off a bolt in the stem and have to buy another.

So, does anyone have any suggestions on how to lower / stop the bars from slipping forward? I'd prefer to not cut grooves in the stem (unless it's the bottom, the bottom part of the bracket is completely smooth) but if that's what it would take I'll do it. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Note: I did tighten the bolts in the correct pattern


texts: Problem with changing to high gear on the front derailleur on my new Bianchi Spillo Rubino Altus Rigid

texts:
It's a 24 speed bike with 3 gears on front (Cranks PROWHEEL 48/38/28T) and 8 on the rear. I rode it today and when I was moving the front gear to 3 to move the chain to the large ring I have to press the shifter hard and it does not always work. Sometimes when I move it from 1 to 2 that also does not work.

Can you suggest what might be wrong and how to fix this.


texts:
I'm looking for suggestions, when basically everything has failed to remove a pedal. It's a pretty new bike (Trek 520). The drive side pedal came off fine, the non-drive side did not. I am aware that it has left-hand threads.
I initially used a 15mm pedal wrench, and tried with an allen key on the other side as well. Now, the flats on the bolt are completely stripped.

I used a metal file, to file new flats onto it. Then, I placed it on its side, and put a little WD40 into the bolt, so it could soak for about 30 minutes.

Then, I used a butane torch on the spindle, where it screws in.

After all this, I put an adjustable clamping wrench to it. The bike is upside down.

It stripped the teeth on the clamping wrench, without budging.

This is absurd. The only thing I haven't tried is a bolt extractor. After all of this, I don't have much faith in it.
It seems like I'm going to have to replace the entire crank. The one that comes with it is:
Shimano Alivio T4060, 48/36/26, 2-piece w/chain guard, 175mm length
However, due to high demand, and limited resources from the pandemic, this has been sold out everywhere for some time. :/
Edit: Update. First of all, thank you, the responses here have been awesome, this is a terrific community.
I didn't have access to a vice, so I ended up taking the bike to my LBS. We removed the crank arm, stripped the pedal down to the spindle, and put it into a vice there. Flash forward to three of us working it, two pushing off the wall, and using a foot to torque the arm, while another alternates a blowtorch, and spraying it down with penetrating oil to the point of slightly deforming the arm. Whatever black magic is holding this thing, it will not let go.
The Alivio crankset isn't set to be back in warehouses until June, so we ordered a 175mm, left Sora arm for $30.


texts: Nexus IGH reluctant to shift after applying load

texts:
I ride a belt drive bike with a Shimano Nexus SG-C6001-8D IGH. I'm aware of the normal cable adjustment procedure (aligning yellow marks on the hub), I've done this.
When I ride normally, shifting is instantaneous and smooth. However, when I move off at lights, I usually use gear 3, and I've noticed that if I accelerate hard, the hub will not shift into gear 4 after I change it; instead, it only shifts after I go up to 5 (and then it immediately goes 3 -> 5, so gear 4 is effectively skipped over). Sometimes it also happens that if I shift 3->4 and leave it there, without going to 5, 4 will eventually engage after 5 seconds or so.
I should point out I don't attempt to shift under load; I accelerate in gear 3, release pressure on the pedals, then shift and continue.
As said above, this 3->4->5 shifting issue only happens when accelerating. If I ride normally at a constant speed, those gears have no issues.
I know for a fact the shift cable needs to be cleaned, there's likely water inside, as when it was -5°C/23°F outside once, the cable froze in its housing. Could this issue be caused by the cable, or is it a hub problem? I suspect the cable but I'm not sure why everything would be fine when not applying load. For reference, I'd estimate the hub has at most 5000km/3000 miles on it.


texts: Rear derailleur shifting from 1st to 7/8th with one click

texts:
I have recently replaced shifter cable and reset the pulleys so that they are in line with the cogs.  I've set the high and low limits and have the gears shifting nicely upward & have fine tuned with the barrel adjuster.  When shifting back down the gears just jump from 1st almost straight down to 7 & 8th cog after only just one click of the shifter!!

Help....any recommendations on how to fix please?  Cheers


texts: How to determine tyre pressure for trail descents?

texts:
I ride XC for recreation: trails, dirt roads, gravel roads, some rock beds. The bike has a hard-tail frame with, 80mm travel fork and 2.10 inch tires.
I have noticed that pumping the tires a lot makes riding on asphalt easier, however grip is reduced off-road.
How should I determine the correct pressure of the tires for optimum grip when descending, while still avoiding pinch flats? Can this be expressed as a function of the recommended minimum and maximum pressure? Is it different for the front and rear tire?


texts: Repairing stripped threads on a nut type bottom bracket

texts:
I recently bought a used 2011 diamondback outlook mountain bike for $30 on craigslist.

The bike however needed some significant work. The bearings in both wheels need to be replaced, the shimano 7 speed freewheel was rusted to crap and best of all, the rear brakes were missing. I guess that's why it was $30. The previous owner also decided it would be a great idea to coat everything in some very heavy automotive grease. the only good thing about that was the chain was really dirty but just needed a good cleaning. Somehow that was intact...

Anyway here's what we are getting to. I was removing the right crankarm to replace it with different ones that weren't so beat up and the threads are now stripped. Not the threads inside the crankarm, the threads attached to the bottom bracket that allow the retaining nut to hold the crankarm into place.

Picture:

As you can see the threads have been almost ground down. The threads at the bottom closest to the square taper are what they are supposed to look like, and above that is what the threads look like now.

The nut also was stripped when I was removing it, so I ordered a replacement 14mm nut for this type of bottom bracket online since I can't find a nut like that in the fasteners section of my local hardware stores. But I can't easily do the same with the bottom bracket, so I need to fix it.

My first thought is to wrap some thread tape around the damaged threads. They still seem to be "sort of" there, just sanded down.

My second thought is to use a ton of threadlocker red on both the nut and the bolt, then tighten it in. This should hopefully create a good enough seal and the new nut won't move.

Third option is to buy a thread tap and try to carve new threads into the bolt. The only problem is I would need some sort of hollow thread tap that would fit over the bolt, and I don't think that even exists. I also don't know the appropriate thread pitch tap to buy in the first place.

My fourth choice is replacing the bottom bracket altogether. That will require me to buy more tools to remove the bottom bracket like a shimano bottom bracket removal tool, and costs the most. So I really want to avoid this if possible.

Finally, is it possible to remove the threaded portion of the bottom bracket entirely by unscrewing it and just install a new threaded rod? Can that even be done?

Any ideas?


texts: Bike feels like it's slipping/shifting gear when pedalling while standing up on max gear

texts:
not familiar with bike terminology, so sorry if this doesn't come across well. My bike will make a loud clicking noise and the pedals will give some resistance when I pedal whilst standing up. If I sit down it is perfectly fine. Shifting down to lower gears allow me to stand up and pedal with no issues whatsoever. It's hard to see what exactly is going on when the only time I can get the issue to occur is when I'm standing up on the bike.

Hope someone can help me out!


texts: How do I figure out what the model number is of my Shimano rear derailleur?

texts: Here are pictures of my current derailleur I need to replace.


texts: How to collect Shimano ALTUS parts together?

texts:
So today this morning i was trying to shift with the front shifter, but after a while it was just shifting on nothing i mean was not working then i tried to push it hard and then everything came out. I've taken some picture to show you guys if i can fix it or it's totally broken ?
And if i can, can you help me out to collect them together again ?


texts: Conceptual: Bike Lights built into Grips

texts:
I am a design student and avid cyclist and am currently working on a design project for school. I had an idea for locking handlebar grips that have LED lights built into them. If you can picture MTB grips or even BMX grips for that matter, essentially there would be an extra 2 maybe 3 or so inches towards the inside of the grip where the inner "ring" on a BMX grip would be (side of the grip closest to the stem). This would give enough extra space to house a few LED's and batteries as well and would be operated by the thumbs of the rider. The intent of this grip is to not only provide safety and visibility for the rider (as you would have 2 "headlights") but to also deter theft as grips are a complete pain in the ass to take off.

Anyway, my question for all of you is do you see any value in this concept? I know there are other options out there for theft proof lights but I feel like a seamless integration would make it less of a "target" if even at all. Honestly if any of you have suggestions or things you think would enhance this idea any feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks for your time. And remember this project is conceptual...there are no wrong answers.


texts: How to reuse a rim after the brake edge has been damaged

texts:
My chain fell of and got stuck a few days ago (i ride fixed gear) and made a real mess of my back rim.

I noticed 2 marks on the brake edge of the rim where the chain scraped along.
they are not very deep (under 1mm) and 1-2cm long.

Is there any way i can make the rim brakable again, without having to change my brake pads once a week? Since the incident i haven't been using the back brake because of this...


texts:
Does anybody have experience with riding with a big (60-70 pound) dog? I took a look at How do you carry a dog on a bike?, but there doesn't seem to be much experience with big dogs reflected there.

What I'm hoping for is a bike setup that would be practical (e.g., easy to set up and go) for errands around town and short rides (30-50 km). It would be a bonus if the bike also worked well for "non-extreme" touring (with dog). I don't think I want to ride with the dog running alongside – there is too much traffic for me to feel like that is safe for dog or rider. The Soma Tradesman looks like a possibility, although I'm not sure that it would work with such a big dog on the platform.

I'm open to considering a trailer, but the one's I've seen and used don't seem to practical for use in a (sub)urban environment. I've seen a bike with a Bob Yak trailer and a biggish (maybe 40 pound) dog "surfing" on the platform, but it seems too risky for the dog without some modification to the trailer.


texts:
I noticed recently that my rear tire seems to be tearing on the right side. The bead is firmly attached inside the wheel but the wall/fabric are tearing away. The bike and tire are only 3 years old. I’m wondering if one of the following might be causing this:

I ride most weekdays with a rear pannier on the left carrying 5–10 pounds of weight. On rarer occasions I’ll carry more weight.
A month or so ago, I had a flat caused by a sharp sliver of unknown material poking through the rear tire. I removed the intruder and patched the tube. (It’s possible the tube is slightly bulged due to the patch, although I’m not sure the location corresponds exactly with this tear.)

Would anything else reasonably cause such a tear? It looks as though the tube is causing the tire to bulge out a bit where it’s torn, but I wouldn’t say that I normally have the tubes overinflated — if anything, probably underinflated.


texts:
I have a 1985 Peugeot P16 (mixte). The Weinmann 730 sidepull rear brake was located at the seatstay bridge.

Q: Is it safe to relocate it to the gusset plate located behind the seat tube and attached to the intermediate stays (because i don't know the name of the head tube to rear drop out twin tubes!).

The brake, with a spacer, will physically fit, but i don't know if it's the right thing to do. Seems this would leave the seat stay bridge for rack & fender mounting.

thanks


texts: I bought a new bike that has mechanical disc brakes. They were squeaking really hard. I tried aligning the caliper. Now the squeaking noise is gone form the front brake, but not from the back brake. I noticed that the brake in the back has less space between the disc and the brake pads, but that shouldn't be a problem. The brake pads are new and so are the discs, and I cleaned everything. What should I do?


texts:
My rear shifter says the chain is on gear 4, but actually it is on gear 7. When I try to swap the gear, I just can't press/pull the lever: it's stuck. The 2nd problem I have is that when I'm riding my bike and I put some pressure on the chain, it like skips every 2 seconds. I think the 2nd problem is a consequence of the first one. I don't know much about bikes, but I hope one of you can help me :), ask me anything I forgot to say.
P.S. Sorry for my English


texts: What GPS unit should I get? Or, is there a better app I could use to log my rides?

texts:
There is only so much I can do with logging my rides with my phone. Both the Strava and Runtastic Apps have issues logging my rides. Importing a GPX file from one to the other produces inconsistencies and it's annoying not knowing the exact info from my ride.

I had a Garmin Edge 305, and was looking into getting a new Garmin unit. Reading over the reviews, Garmin's site, and Amazon listings, I am really confused as to what unit to get. The 510 fits in my price range, but some reviews say that it has a lot of GPS issues. Additionally, Garmin no longer sells it, so I'm thinking that it will be replaced soon. Garmin Touring and 810 do not come with the accessories, and are absolutely too expensive when bundled up.

Two questions:

Is there an android app that does a better job recording rides and
allows importing into Strava's website without too many
inconsistencies?
What Garmin unit will give me a heart rate
monitor, wheel and candance sensors, and the abiity to extrac the
GPX file into Strava's website?


texts:
I'm looking at a road bike with SRAM Force AXS 2x crank but would like it as 1x. I see from photos that the spider is separate from the right crank.

Are the 1x vs 2x arms and/or spiders different?

If arms and spiders are the same, I can just replace both rings with a single 1x-specific one. If the arms are the same but the spiders differ, I have to get the 1x spider as well, and if the arms differ I have to replace the whole thing. The seller don't do any customization so I can't ask them to swap.


texts: How to choose between 10 speed vs 12 speed drivetrain on mountain bike. Pros and Cons

texts:
I'm buying a mountain bike from a company that lets you choose the drivetrain. I am having trouble deciding whether to go for a 1 x 10 speed Deore option (11-42) or a 1 x 12 speed SLX (recently released) (10-51) or GX Eagle Sram (10-50) option.  My budget could stretch to the more expensive 12 speed options. But is it worth it? Can't seem to find a definitive answer and cut through all the marketing. What are the  pros and and cons of 10 speed vs 12 speed drivetrain on mountain bike?

Some obvious benefits of the 12 speed:

Range

Negatives (correct me if I'm wrong):

Less distance between shifts?
Alignment very important for smooth shifting.
More expensive.
Quicker to wear out?

Previous drivetrains I have tried:

Traditional mtb 9 speed with triple front ring
1 x 10 and 44 tooth front chainring on my commuter bike
2 x ? on my road bike
GX 11 speed when I demoed the mtb I'm looking at
singlespeed huret flip flop
8 speed XTR.
fixed gear
mountain bike fixed gear
7 speed SIS
7 speed gripshit
Sturmey Archer 3 speed Chopper


texts: How to use cheap nut and bolt bike with a smart trainer

texts:
I have a cheap bike (CCM Capri bike link: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ccm-capri-women-s-hybrid-bike-700c-0711734p.html). I want to use this bike with Tacx Bushido smart trainer. This bike has nut and bolt for the rear wheel. No through axle or quick release.

I have below questions:

As the tire on this bike has a tread pattern on it. I want to replace it with an indoor trainer tire. Can you please recommend which tire size I should buy. Currently, I have 700x38C tire (as shown in the pic below). I am looking at something like the ones shown in this link: https://tacx.com/product/trainer-tyre/
How should I use the device provided by the smart trainer (shown in the green pic) on my tire? Do I remove the rod by unscrewing the nut and bolt and use this device provided by the smart trainer?
Is there a way to convert this nut and bolt configuration to through axle?

I have already checked this link and did not find it useful for my case: Smart trainer & CX bike compatibility

Bike tire right side:

Bike tire left side:

Tacx Smart trainer rod to be used with the tire:

Tire information:


texts: Slotted or unslotted crown race with tapered carbon steerers

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Does a tapered carbon steerer (40mm at the crown) typically require a slotted crown race if the steerer lacks an integrated bevel on which the lower bearing can rest?
I have a Cane Creek Forty headset with an unslotted crown race whose inner diameter is 39.8+ mm  and a tapered carbon steerer whose outer diameter is 40mm "on the nose".
Having read about the dangers of tightening a stem onto the upper section of a carbon steerer without a compression plug inserted into the tube and properly torqued to provide resistance against the inward forces, I am concerned that this Cane Creek crown race might not be the right one to use with this particular carbon steerer.
What are typical tolerances here?  Is this steerer typical at 40mm or a bit chubby?  Is 39.8+ mm typical for unslotted crown races, or a bit skimpy?


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I can't find any nice video or pictures tutorial that explains how to connect and disconnect a quick release chain link. Am I not finding anything because it has another more common name?

How do you connect and disconnect a quick release chain link?


texts: Can I install a handlebar brake handle without removing the grips?

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I recently bought a cruiser bike with coaster brakes. I decided I wasn't happy with the stopping power, so I want to add a hand brake to the front wheel.

I ordered some parts online, but I have run into some trouble with installing the brake handle. It doesn't open wide enough to attach at any point to the handlebars, it appears that I have to take off the handlebar grips and slide it onto the handlebars.

But it's a new bike with new leather handlebar grips that I'd rather not ruin. I've seen some videos online about removing grips with Pledge and a screw driver, but that seems kind of iffy to me.

Do they make a handlebar grips that attach similar to some phone mounts that I've seen, where they open up wide and then screw shut?


texts: Is there a difference in having tires filled with CO₂ vs air?

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When you fill your tire with a CO₂ cartridge you are obviously putting CO₂ into it. When you use a pump you are putting air into it. Are there significant temperature variations that may lead to poor or better performance when using one or the other?

For instance, if you fill a tube with CO₂ and another with air at same temperature and then the temperature rises 10°F, will one be more likely to explode than the other? What precautions must be taken when using one vs. the other?


texts: What type of brakes is least subject to failure in the winter?

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There is a lot of snow in the winter where I live. Different kinds of snow; soft, sticky, wet, etc. And ice too. It can get pretty cold: -25 °C (-15 °F). We drop salt, sand and gravel on our roads.

I'm about to buy a bike that I'll be using this winter for commuting to work. What kind of brake will work best in all kinds of wet and icy situations?

I'm interested in braking performance as much as long-term durability.