texts: Can 700x28c wheels and tires fit in my MTB frame?

texts:
I have an old Giant MTB frame. It's got typical oversized aluminum tubing but with roadbike-esque triangle shapes. It's disc-brake compatible and I want to turn it into a commuter bike.
The rear end has a radius limit of 343 mm. I currently don't have the resources nor the opportunity to test-fit. The theoretical tire radius seems to fit just fine, but actual tires may deviate or vary slightly, hence my crowd-sourcing question.


texts: Rear V-brake pivots (cantilever studs) asymmetrical on Specialized Hardrock XC 2004 - how to fix?

texts:
This is a bit weird question. I bought a Specialized Hardrock XC used bike cheaply on e-bay. It had no front brake and the rear v-brake had different arms and was very dodgy. I thought I would able to fix what needs to be fixed - essentially to replace brakes shifters and cables. It would be fine, but for the unexpected.

( Studs that can be e-bay ordered from Taiwan)

The frame is good apart from the left rear V-brake stud (the cylinder piece on which brake is put on) - also called brake pivot and cantilever stud. It is protruding from frame by about 2 mm more than the right, also has a thicker ring at its base - so looks like as if it had not been screwed in all the way. If you look at the photo it looks like the disc shaped wider part has remained above the frame. Moreover - the part which the brake fits on that should be round (it is like a cylinder in the middle with flat sides used to screw studs into the corresponding frame threads) apparently has become oval - the left side brake does not go down all the way to the frame as the right side brake does and the fixator pin inserts into its hole by about 1 mm max. This is the problem I was trying to solve - if the brake would fit, I would not bother with the thing that one sud protrudes by 2 mm more.

The trouble I have is this - how do I replace the stud or what should I do. I have heard that one way would be to try to screw it more in - unlikely as the previous owner would have done it. The other way - to try to screw it out. After I could not fir the brake I tried to use mole grip wrench and understood it would be very difficult - tried just twice and stopped not to break the thing further. Another option maybe would be to file down the existing stud so that the brake fits on safely.

And how do I even know that the thread in studs from Taiwan would even fit the thread, should I be able to remove the stud? So I am worried to mess up the frame.

The brake I am trying to put on is Shimano Deore M590.

What do more experienced people think - how to sort this out? I am only a technically inclined noob in bicycling and would be very grateful for advice.


texts: Where can I buy a wide range of used bike parts online?

texts:
Does anyone know of a reputable website that sells a wide range of used and second hand bike parts and components?

I'm helping a friend rebuild an older commuter bike and we are having trouble finding compatible components. There are a couple of local shops that carry used parts, but not having any luck there so far. I know of an Ebay seller that sells used ski equipment; I'm wondering if, likewise, there is a website for used bike parts. I'm basically looking for a larger inventory than my local area.


texts: Are there mechanical advantages and disadvantages of various front derailleur styles?

texts:
In general there are:

High clamp
Low clamp
Braze on
Top pull
Bottom pull

And in particular, is any of those better choice regarding reliability and durability for touring bicycle.


texts: What target heart rate or power do people use when commuting by bike

texts:
Biking to work is good exercise. It can make it easier to meet our exercise needs.

When commuting by bike, what heart rate or power zones do people usually use?
What's a recommended target? Should we try to get to work as fast as possible or at a more relaxed pace? Do the commuters decide it based on feel?

Which days should we do sprinting? Should we have similar schedules every week?

An example of a schedule with the zones can be helpful.

Let's say you work full time and you want to break the plateau. You want the kind of fitness improvements that make you bike to work faster and improve race times.

Update Dec 20
Possible fitness goals: Faster commuting times, faster cruising speeds, 30 km/h feels easy, faster sprints to decrease missing green lights, being able to outrun wolves and bears. Getting to work faster on a bike means less need for driving to work or e-bikes!

If intervals are done, does that mean the next day must be zone 1 to be fully recovered to train hard enough for your next interval session? Is the fat burning zone good enough?


texts:
I am getting a grinding noise from the rear wheel which has got louder and is causing increasing resistance over the last few weeks (I live in the Netherlands so cycle every day).

The cassette has been taken apart and cleaned in case it was dirt between cogs, this didn't help. From this I am guessing it is bearings? I've been told that if I took it to a bike shop they would just replace the rear wheel which would be very expensive. Was hoping that maybe the bearings could be changed or that its a different problem?

My bike is a Scott Mountain bike with 21 gears.

Thanks so much, any advice would be really welcome as I am a student with little money :(.
Thanks, James


texts:
My XC MTB has open type headset bearings, is it possible to replace them with closed type?

The main problem is that I live in a flat and only place where to wash my bike after a muddy or dusty race is self-service car wash nearby. that results in sands being pushed into headset bearings and I have to clean them basically each time I wash my bicycle.


texts: Can I expend same or less effort riding a mountain bike than road bike?

texts:
I know nothing about engineering.

I feel like I can expend the same or even less effort riding a mountain amd a road bike (if going slowly) but feeling is not reliable, so I hope to get some insight on this matter.

Let's assume the mountain bike has a hard fork, hard tail, really thin tires.
At same price as the road bike. The two bikes are going for the same distance on a smooth road, with no wind. I don't know if climbing and decending make much difference.

What I guess is, if I am going slow, so the aerodynamics of a road bike will not make much difference, won't I using almost same effort to cover the same distance?
Gear ratios affect fuel consumption, so can I manage my gear ratio and speed to save total work I expend? Will a mountain bike will require less work to cover the same distance?
When riding in the city where you have to frequently stop and start, does a road bike need more effort than mountain bike since it has higher ratio gearing?
Is there some way to test this without a lab environment? I can't find a way to measure how much work I'm doing, and total work I expended.

Please feel free to educate me, I just want to know more.

Where I got this weird idea was from my wife:

She got a hard tail hard fork DIY XC bike, with carbon frame and fork. it was decently light, at about 10KG, slick tire with high pressure and very narrow. It cost bit more than US$1600.

But, she only rides it if we are going out town. She commutes with a US$45 lady bike, she said it was not much difference riding this bike, if under 4km.

I tried her lady bike, it was pretty easy riding short distance in the city, but very hard at longer distance on account of riding posture, and very small bike -- riding slowly of course.


texts: Anything wrong with using MTB saddle on hybrid bike

texts:
I'm been having problems with fit on my hybrid.
When I spend around 1hr on the saddle I start to get pain in the left prostate.

I can no longer ignore the problem because I plan to do C2C. Right now I need to do some training because I'm not that much better than a couch potato. I have a feeling I won't make it otherwise.

The thing is I have two other mountain bikes and I don't seem to get the same problem.

Shall I just get a MTB sadddle?


texts:
How does brazing and welding not ruin the heat treat on steel tubes? With such high temperatures, wouldn't the heat treat be ruined?

Edit: Specifically in this video

             it shows Hincapie using what looks like an oxy-acetylene torch to fillet braze. It looks like the tubes are getting red hot which is sure to ruin any heat treat. Is fillet brazing impossible with heat treated tubes? Also barring high tech manufacturing techniques, how does a small frame building operation preserve heat treats when mig or tig welding?


texts: Advice on what to buy for someone who snaps rear axles often

texts:
To start off, I have snapped my rear axle on my current bicycle four times already. Usually the wheel never "dislocated", so I was fine, but the last time I almost drove off a 10m drop because I almost lost the rear wheel. (It got stuck between the seat pole thing and was held on by the chain.)
I have no clue about bicycles though. I just bought what the dealership recommended to me at the time of purchase. (I would gladly read up & learn about that stuff, but I have the case of mountain stupid, where I do not even know what terms to look up...)
I have been riding every day on a relatively steep decline / incline (~20%) which is paved with beton (concrete) blocks, and I am quite heavy (120kg with clothes). That weight is still under the "rated for" weight of my current bicycle, but I'm guessing the axle snapping is caused by my weight.
The bicycle originally had a "tube" axle which you could tighten with a lever. Originally I replaced it with an identical one, which also snapped so I tried replacing it with a solid one, hoping that would be better but that snapped too. Twice.
I am really unsure what to do about it / what to get now, and was hoping I could get some advice of what to look for. I live in Europe, so if you are going to recommend a product it would be great if I wouldn't have to import it.
My current bicycle is from a company called "Bulls - The Ride You Want", but I couldn't find anything about them online except for a really crappy advert on YouTube.


texts: Should I get wider tyres/tires for my tour if I'm not going to go off-road?

texts:
I'm going to do a ten-day long tour down the west coast of New Zealand. I'll have some luggage in rear panniers, but no tent (staying with friends and in backpackers accommodation). There'll be a fair bit of uphill and downhill on some days. But I don't forsee that I'll hit gravel - I'll likely stay on sealed roads. Of course, it may rain (as if that isn't obvious).

My bike is a steel framed road bike, and I currently ride with 23mm tyres. Because it's an older bike I can fit wider tyres on, which some recommend for touring, but I wonder if it's worth it? In the context of my tour, if I went to 28mm tyres what would the advantages/disadvantages be?


texts: How exactly does cross-chaining accelerate wear?

texts:
I've heard all over that cross-chaining "wears your drivetrain out faster". I must admit I'm not 100% convinced that this is true, because I can't see a scientific basis for it.

Could I get an explination of exactly how and why cross-chaining wears out your chain/cassette/chainrings?


texts:
i bought my mountain bike litterally an hour ago but i feel im a bit to heavy for the bicycle.
I weigh 120kg (backpack weight included).
Its a Avalanche Reflex 29er 2018 model with a size 20 frame.
Am i just being paranoid?
If its the wrong size then ill just have to do an exchange so any help ASAP will be appreciated as it will be my transport to, and from work


texts: Tube constantly getting punctured near the valve

texts:
I have been using my bike for a few years now, and for the last month i am constantly getting this problem. After riding a day or two, it looks like my tube gets rotated a little inside the tire, and the valve becomes bent. If i continue riding, the tube gets torn. So i have to remove the tire, wiggle the tube a bit, and it's back to normal for a few days.

The tube seems to fit very well, and i don't notice any inconvenience when inserting it, so maybe my problem is not caused by bad tubes (or maybe it is? how can i make sure?)

Another thing that might be relevant: i started riding moderately technical terrain in the last year (going down rocky roads, riding downstairs in the city). The problems started just a month ago; maybe the additional stress, combined with the warm weather (25-30°C now), is the cause?

I also use anti-puncture tape.

So, what causes my problem? How can i fix it?

New tube:

After some riding:

After a puncture:


texts: I am having a disagreement with a friend.  It stems around the scenario of 2 identical bikes on the same gear ratio side by side.  If the rate of pedaling is same for both do both bikes travel at the same speed?  Or does the rider's weight play a factor?


texts: I'm trying to find new wheels for my trek 1.1, and I can't find the spacing for the hubs. The wheels I'm looking at have a front spacing of 100mm, and a back spacing of 130mm. Will these fit on my bike?


texts: I am currently eyeing this bike but can't seem to figure out what model it is nor does the current owner. I do know it has Campy Record and the ONDA carbon fork. I am just trying to do my research before I go look at it. Thank you in advance for your help


texts: How is this damaged aluminium frame likely to fail?

texts:
I had an unplanned collision with a car yesterday (everyone is fine, thankfully) but my bike – a Giant Revolt 1 – now has a lovely new pair of dents.
I cycled it home from the collision (~6km) and it seemed “fine” although I was probably still in shock.
Looking at it today, and having looked at several other questions regarding dented aluminium frames, I’m trying to ascertain what the most likely failure is?
Is this frame likely to continue degrading/cracking over time (i.e. I might get several more months from it)?
Or is it more likely to fail catastrophically and fold in on itself?
I exclusively ride on paved roads although there are often small potholes.


texts: Replacing Raleigh record ace forks circa 1978

texts:
I wrecked my bike 7 years ago, in a bad crash. I rode home in shock. I went through a lot.

I replaced the tires, tubes, wheels and brakes. The forks are bent and at higher speeds there is some weird vibration in the front end at times. The forks have a springy twist rarely. How do I find, and how do I judge, what is a safe replacement.?

I'm poor and this bike has sentimental value.


texts: I'm about to build up a frame (Motobecane Fantom CX) with cantilevers and drop bars. I plan to use my old Campy 9-speed levers. Obviously, those levers don't have any way of adjusting the cable length - so I'll have to add some way to adjust it. I know I can buy a front cable hanger with an adjusting barrel, so that takes care of the front. It's the rear that I can't figure out: this frame already has a cable stop for the rear brake, so I don't think I even have the option of installing one of those adjustable hangers on the seat bolt. I think what I need is some sort of adjusting barrel that can fit into the existing cable stop - does such a thing exist? If not, how can I make one?


texts: Can anyone help me identify this stem binder nut

texts:
This nut (pictured) fits the binder bolt from a vintage 3ttt stem. I would like to know the name of this nut, or the type of nut this is so that I can try to buy more.

So far, I've found similar things when searching the internet with keywords like "knurled", "conical", and "tapered", but haven't managed to find anything that has the flange.

Can anyone help?

Edit: For clarification, here's a pic of the nut in situ


texts: What tools on a multi-tool do I actually need?

texts:
I feel like there are almost as many bike multi-tools out there as there are bikers. In a single trip to REI, I found nine different bike tools each ranging from only four to over thirty individual tools! But how many of these tools do I actually need?

I feel like some of the tools included in these multi-tools aren't really ever going to be necessary in the middle of a ride, but are actually better suited for at-home repair.

So, what tools do you actually need to carry with you, that you might actually need while out riding, and what tools are you can safely leave at home?


texts:
For riding on level surface one should strive for high cadence. However, what is the best solution when descending over rough terrain?

On one hand, because the legs are better suspension when the muscles are relaxed i.e. not pedaling, one could make a point for difficult gears. That way, with only a short 1/4 rotation of the pedals close to horizontal position, one can generate acceleration, then quickly return to horizontal position for the next obstacle.

On the other hand, because easy gears make it possible to rapidly rotate the pedals backwards OR forwards, easy gears could be beneficial, providing move agility to avoiding pedal strike.

Are there some guidelines, wisdom or tips of thumb about downhill gearing?


texts: 10 speed chain skipping on 9 speed cassette

texts: I have recently replaced a 9 speed chain with a 10 speed one on a 9 speed cassette. I read this is compatible. Shifting is fine and quieter but it is now jumping on the smaller cogs 6-9. Is this a common occurrence? Never had any skipping on 9 speed chain though it was a lot noisier.


texts: bike grease got on my wall. best way to get it off?

texts:
white paint on drywall.
black bike grease.

whoops.

what are you tips and tricks for getting it off the wall/paint


texts: Why aren't sportive' 'bikes popular outside the UK?

texts:
I recently bought a 'sportive' bike, i.e. very much like a road bike but with a taller head tube to give a slightly more upright, more relaxed, less 'heads-down' riding position, and a triple chainset rather than a compact double.

I think this is a great bike (I'm not telling you its make or model as I don't want to discuss the pros and cons of this specific bike), but the US-based manufacturer produced it in 2010 only. I happened to meet a UK-based employee of theirs at the weekend who told me although this bike was designed specifically for the UK market, its (worldwide) sales turned out to be too small to justify continued production. This surprises me, as I have the impression that only a small proportion of the (lower-end) road bikes sold are ever used for road racing or time trialling, with more used for fitness and day rides, including the sportive events that give this style its name, and that this style of bike is ideally suited to such uses.

Can anyone explain why such bikes aren't popular outside the UK?


texts: I have a one month old Citizen foldable bike and I have noticed a soft "thunk" when turning the crank. It sounds the same whatever gear I am in. It also seems to go away for a short while if I stop pedaling. This started just last week when my gears were slipping. I had adjusted the derailleur, but the "thunk" remained. I am pretty sure it is coming from the bottom bracket, but it could also be coming from the main sprocket - it is hard to tell.


texts: Suspension setting for slippy and steep uphill

texts:
Normally one locks or sets both suspensions to a really hard setting to not loose to much force while going uphill. I'm however having problems on steep passages, as my front wheel lifts off the ground, or if I shift to much weight to the front, the back wheel slips. That happens especially often on rooty paths or loose ground.

I'm riding a 29" with 120mm suspension at the front with three resistance settings. The back suspsension has also got three resistance settings. I can't lower my suspensions that they stay at e.g. 80mm.

Question: Is it smarter to set the front suspension to an low resistance, so that the angle for falling off the back is not as steep? Or does the increased bouncing (rebound) of the suspension just increase the risk of toppling over backwards, e.g. when shifting more weight to the rear to gain traction?


texts:
I bought this front wheel
https://www.probikeshop.fr/roue-avant-mavic-aksium-ust-disc-a-pneus-center-lock-2-aa9/154559.html
and this surly fork
https://www.bike-components.de/fr/Surly/Fourche-Rigide-Straggler-Disc-28-700c-p38261/
and I would like to know if I can buy this front thru-axle (12mm diameter) to assemble these three components.
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Surly/Front-Thru-Axle-p75526/?o=69407947-black-15-x-110-mm
and we can read that:
"The Surly front thru-axle is suitable for Surly thru-axle compatible frames and does not destroy the look of the beautiful frames due to the low profile."
so I guess my fork is not compatible with my wheel ...


texts: 4L of water and 2 max protein bars. Is it sufficient for a four hour ride?

texts: I am from India and it's really tough getting gels. So I thought I'd put for protein bars which are pretty easy to get. But Alot of people say to have carbohydrates every hour of your ride. Can anyone tell if having 4L of water and 2 protein bars is sufficient. Else can you suggest some snacks that can easily be made or bought.


texts:
I have a tire size of 40-622 and 700X38:

But when I look at the table I see that it does not match:
40-622  28 x 1-5/8 x 1-3/4  700 x 40C   28 x 1½ x 1,75  1995    Find tires
38-622  28 x 1-5/8 x 1½     700 x 38C   28 x 1½ x 1,75  1995    Find tires

You see how on the first line we got 40-622 (in the first column) and in the second line we got 700 x 38C (in the third column)? So what's the actual size of my tire?


texts:
I always use Google Earth to plan my cross-county routes. Lately, I have begun to ride long distance trips (over 70 kms). Checking my bike computer against Google Earth I have noticed consistent discrepencies of over 10% (computer give me more distance than Google Earth).

I have checked my computer againts my hand held GPS (old Garmin eTrex) and both differ by less than 0.5% in short test (2.5 kms). Also, I cross checked with my ride partner and we both are getting the same readings (+/- 3%) from our computers (different brands) over long distances (20-30 kms).

My bike computer is generic cheap chinese model. I can only select whole wheels size (26"), with no fine tunning. I trace my routes over dirt/paved road, so I certainly keep my planned course.

Can you explain why real distances (according to my computer) are always +10% over Google Earth? What's your experience?


texts: Is it normal for a Derailleur pulley to "wobble" a little bit? Or does that mean it's time to replace

texts:
I'm trying to repair my bike for the first time, so i'm learning.

It's a shimano deore set for a flat handle road bike.

It won't stay in gear --- it keeps shifting while i ride, especially in the middle gears of the back cassette (first and last gear seem to stick better). It's especially an issue when i start pedaling backwards... the chain is completely undecided between 2 gears at almost all times.

I've already tried adjusting it the regular way, and it's not the issue.

At closer inspection, i'm noticing that the pulley wheel labeled "Shimano - Centeron G-Pulley" doesn't spin perfectly straight. It sort of "wobbles" while it spins, and so... my chain sort of wobbles to the left and right as it spins around it. This makes the chain keep jumping gears. I understand that it is supposed to be able to "slide" to the left and right a little bit (the "centeron" tech, lol)... but in this case... it wobbles ever so slightly.. .and i'm not sure if that is okay, and if it means i need a new pulley.

I took the part out and cleaned it. I put it back in, and it still wobbles.
Is my diagnosis good? Should i order a new pulley set?


texts: Joe Blow bike pump failures in one way valve

texts: I used a bunch of Joe Blow bike pumps to pressurize water bottle rockets. Occasionally water squirted back into pump. After a few weeks of use, the one way valve failed. How can I fix this or prevent it from happening so often?


texts: Why does my non-drive side crank arm come loose?

texts: I tighten the bolt super hard. Ride for a while. Then it comes loose again. I don't know if its my BB or the bolts. How can this be fixed??


texts: Suspension fork - Can you leave them locked for a long time?

texts:
My bike's two years old (about 1800km on it, almost all road and bridleway) and kept in a garage. Back in November or so I locked the front suspension fork for road-riding, and over the winter probably did about 50 miles in short ~7 mile jaunts. A couple of weeks ago I tried to unlock my forks, and while the lockout lever moves ok, the forks appear to remain locked; they absolutely refuse to budge even a mm.

I've not had my forks serviced to date. The dealer is saying its because I had the forks locked for several months and neglected to have them serviced. It has always worked quite well.

I think the fork is a "Merida M-510, 100 mm, LO" (This looks like it) - although google finds nothing on that, so I guess its a rebranded something.

So my question - what's likely happened to the forks? Is it something I can fix (and how?)? Is it likely to be a manufacturing defect? And of course, does locking for a long time (even if unused for most of that time) cause issues?

Note: I've read the questions on here about fork maintenance; none of them mention locking for prolonged periods.

Thanks!


texts: Are single speed bikes considered good bikes to use with child seats?  I wasn't sure if the added weight of a four year old would make a single speed too hard to use.   Will be using the bike on relatively flat terrain.


texts: What is the downside to me purchasing a road bike instead of a hybrid?

texts:
I'm about to move to a place closer to my work where I'll be able to ride to and from the office (9km ride each way).

I'm not super fit but I occasionally ride to work from where I'm living now which is a 14km commute on an old mountain bike with some thinner tyres fitted. I need a change of clothes for those rides.

I figured with the move, it's a good opportunity to get into riding. I plan on riding every day and me and my gf may even sell one of our cars eventually.

Which is why I'm thinking I need a real bike. I'm a little torn between getting a hybrid commuting bike or a road bike.

My brain tells me a hybrid is much more practical but I tried a road bike the other day (only in a car park), and it just seems SO much lighter and smoother. In terms of the handle bars, it was awkward but I think I could get used to it.

So yeah, if I pick a road bike where I can stick a rack on, should I just go ahead and buy a road bike instead of a hybrid? Is there anything a hybrid will offer me that a road bike will not? How do road bikes handle when they have racks?


texts: Do I need a chain guide or bash guard to convert to a single chain ring?

texts: I want to convert an old 12-speed into a 1x6 for urban commuting. I'm hoping to keep one of the existing chain rings at 42T and use washers on the chainring bolts or replace them with single speed bolts. When I remove the front derailleur, do I need to replace it with a chain guide? Do I also need a bashguard? Or is that more for downhill mtb conversions?


texts: Can anyone tell me what model Armstrong this bicycle is and possibly what year thank you


texts: How often should I grease and repack my hubs and bottom bracket?

texts:
I am commuting 7 miles a day (round trip) in all weather in New England (temperate, moderately wet climate, cold winters). Overall I am putting about 1000 miles per year on my commuter bike, a 2009 Giant Transend DX with lower-end Shimano components (Alivio and whatnot).

I lube my chain and check brakes and tire pressure weekly, but how often do I need to get the hubs and bottom-bracket taken apart and lubed?


texts: How do you download OSM maps to Garmin Edge?

texts: How do you download free Open Street Maps (OSM) data on to an SD card for garmin edge 800 / 810 for use in navigation and turn by turn directions?


texts: Training for 150 km race in 2 months practicality and plan

texts:
I've just got into road bikes and want to prepare for a sportive race which is coming up in 2 months and is 150 km. My goal is just to complete the total distance within the 12 hour time limit given.

As of now I ride (16 km in 45 min)/day for 5-6 days a week and have decent fitness level but not too great . Apart from this I don't really play any sport but I jog (8 km in 45 min)/day everyday.

The terrain for the race and where I am going to practice is completely flat. I can devote 1-1.5 hours a day on the weekdays and much more on the weekends for training.

Is it practical for me to be able to take part and complete the race. Also can anyone suggest a training plan for me.


texts: How does hub diameter affect aerodynamics?

texts:
There is a lot of discussion out there about spoke, rim & tyre drag, but almost nothing concerning the aerodynamics of the hubs.

What got me started on this is the fact that road hubs still have a relatively thin appearance, whereas Shimano's (and many of the rest) Mtb hubs follow their 'parallax' shape, which is much wider in diameter.

Naturally, the spokes and rim cut the air all around the hub so it can't be as important, but to what extent is the hub a factor with overall aerodynamics?


texts: Coaster brake: concave sprocket orientation

texts:
The sprocket for my coaster brake hub is shaped concavely in the middle, it is not symmetrical.
I've seen some people on Youtube who had it mounted on the hub facing inward, and others facing outward.
What is the purpose for this concave shape? What is the correct orientation?
(My guess is that you can flip it around to adjust the chain line, but I'm not entirely sure)

Video showing my hub:


texts: What's the smallest size tire that will fit these rims: HED Tomcat disc, 24h, 21mm internal width


texts: How can I use a small Shimano BB on any frame?

texts:
I have a Shimano BB-ES25 bottom bracket and 45T crankset that was removed from a Giant-CRX City with an eccentric hub (it had Shimano Alfine internal hub gears).

They have literally never been used, and the bike they came out of has since been stolen.

Now I'm planning a custom fixed gear bike build, and hoping to re-use these parts, since I'm on a shoestring budget.

What parts do I need to use this BB in a frame that expects a standard sized BB?

Also, am I correct that, since this is designed for an eccentric hub, I should be able to use any frame for my fixie, instead of being restricted to ones with a horizontal dropout?


texts:
I don't see the screw to tighten on the Vision Metron Aero Brake Lever
How do I access tightening bolt?


texts: Trying to find a FC-M371 crank on line but no luck for my part of the world (Australia, New Zealand, Pacific Islands)

texts:
I need a Shimano FC-M371 crank set for my 29 inch Avanti mountain bike. Crank arm 175mm, 44 teeth on large sprocket, 32 on medium, then 22 for small.
Having trouble location one in my part of the world. Is there an alternative compatible crankset that would fit that anyone knows about?  Or a reliable online supplier that I can get one shipped in from?  Thank you.


texts: Could I switch tires on an MTB to tires with less friction if I mostly use the MTB in a city environment?

texts:
I thought MTBs were OK to use in the city but the friction from the tires seem to hold the bike back more than other tires would.

I got a mountain bike (Scott) and it's less than optimal on flat city roads. It's like comparing dubbed tired with tires that are not dubbed(?)

So I'm thinking of switching tires to flatter tires making it easier to pedal the bike in a city environment.

Would this be a good or bad idea? Should I instead just get a regular city bike for use in the city?


texts: i used a secondhand e bike kit but i cant get it to work

texts: guys I put a secondhand e bike kit on my bike but it doesn't want to work its a 36volt 22amp the battery has full charge at out put of 42 volts hooked it  all up push the thumb control nothing i have been at it for days trying to work it out if anyone can help out would be good.  thanks jason


texts: How can I measure what is a relaxed geometry frame?

texts:
I would like to know If a frame would suit me for really long distance riding (100-200km). I have read about the stack to reach ratio, which for example for one of my bikes that is comfortable for me is 1.52. But most of what I find in the road/single-speed segment is way lower. I also have a bike that is not comfortable for long rides (Polo Williambsburg) but I can not get those measurements online. Both where professionaly fitted.
But I have no been able to find a table which classified those stack to reach ratios and in some places they say that is not an indicator for anything.
How can I measure a new frame without trying it (online) to know if it is adequate for me by just looking at the geometry charts?


texts: Which direction should axle lock nuts face?

texts:
After having my bike worked on recently at the LBS I noticed that my rear axle lock nuts are arranged so that the smooth/flat sides are contacting the dropouts. To clarify, I'm discussing the lock nuts that go outside the cones, not the axle/track nuts that secure everything to the frame.
I removed the wheel and loosened the lock nuts for the sake of some photos.

From observing photos of other people's axles, it seems like the rough/beveled/textured/grooved/serrated edge should face away from the center/wheel and towards the outside/frame. The opposite of how mine are installed.
As far as I can tell from my research, this is the common orientation. Rough side faces out, smooth side faces in.
             <rough|smooth]             [smooth|rough>

[etc] [frame] [lock nut] [etc. hub stuff] [lock nut] [frame] [etc]

The photos I've found all seem to imply the rough side touching the dropouts is the right way to do it, but I can't find any conclusive results for bike axle nut which way or bike axle nut which direction.
Is that a general rule for axle lock nuts that the rough side should always face the dropouts?


texts:
As seen below, I got a paper slip telling me not to use my new pedals on indoor equipment. I don't want to anyway, but I wonder — if threads would fit, is there any real reasons not to do it? Probably there is, because they wouldn't limit their own market without a cause, but what reason is it?

Silvery studs on pedals are fully removable.


texts: Where to mount a headlight if the handlebar is obscured by a basket

texts:
I have a permanently mounted basket in front of the handlebars (because I have a child seat on the rack in the back). I also have a headlight on the handlebars (this one, if anyone cares). If the basket is empty, it is somewhat visible, through the mesh that basket is made of. However, if I put anything in the basket, the headlight is useless.

I should mention that I also have a dynamo powered headlight below the basket, but I turn it on only when it's really dark, as the bottle dynamo noticeably slows down the bike.

Any ideas where to move the headlight from the handlebars? To the fork perhaps? That can be a problem as it would point a bit upwards then, and also would be partially obscured by the wheel itself.


texts:
I just installed SRAM Rival shifters and a FD on my touring bike. However, I'm having an issue with very hard shifting. The right/rear shifts fine (teamed with X7 RD).
I have to push excessively hard for it to shift to the big ring. Then when I want to drop it to the small ring, again, I have to push hard and it lets loose with 2 very loud, jarring clicks.  I have Rival on my race bike so I KNOW that's not normal.
It almost feels as if the limiter is in too far, not allowing it to reach full throw, but if I let out the limiter, it overshifts and drops the chain. The shifter works fine when the cable is detached.
The previous setup was an ultegra 9sp clamp-on FD. I bought an Origin8 Braze-on Clamp on which to mount the Rival FD.
I'm just afraid I might break the DT blade off over time.  Any ideas on how to remedy this, or what might be causing it? The only thing I can think of is that maybe the Braze-on clamp displaces the FD too far outboard.

Thanks


texts: Replacing rims with a 3mm effective diameter difference - can spokes be reused?

texts: I'm planning to change the rims from 27.5 (ERD=566mm) to 27.5+ (ERD=563mm). Will I be able to reuse the spokes in this case, or is it worth getting new ones?


texts: Can your rims wear down from too much braking?

texts: I have a question about rims based on information in another question.  The person asking states that he doesn't want his rims wearing down.  Is this really a problem?  Assuming you don't wear the brake pads down to the metal, can the rubber pads actually wear down rims?  Does it make a difference if you use aluminium, steel, or carbon rims?  My rims are aluminium with  tiny grooves on them.  Is there anything I should look for to ensure that they aren't worn down?  I have over 10,000 KM of mostly city riding on my bike.


texts: Is it possible to estimate road grade while riding?

texts:
It would be nice to be able to estimate the grade of a road while riding, even if the estimate is not completely accurate. With a GPS, in theory it should be possible in theory to ride a short distance and divide the difference in elevation by the distance ridden to get a rough estimate. (Note that the sine and tangent are comparable for small angles.)

Is the elevation given by a cell phone or GPS-equipped bike computer accurate enough to give a meaningful grade estimate over short distances? Furthermore, is there any practical way to estimate the grade of a road that does not require a GPS?


texts: Clipless pedals, saddle height and proper starting (and stopping)

texts:
I commute ~20 km a day and decided to give clipless pedals a try. I installed my cleats following a guide on the web: under the ball of the foot, very slightly behind to relieve the toes, especially since I am just commuting and touring, so not focused on pure speed. I loved it from the start!

Still, I was feeling like I was my saddle got suddenly too low.
Probably I was pedaling too much "with my heels" when riding flat (which maybe explains even more how the performance gain is spectacular).

I have considered the saddle height from a few different perspectives:

I moved my saddle up and it felt way better while riding.
Still, at the height where it "feels" the best, my knee is slightly bent which seems fine.
With the general rule-of-thumb of having the barefoot heel just touch the pedal with the leg completely straight when the pedal is completely down, my barefoot foot is a little under an inch hovering over the pedal.
I know that Master Sheldon also stated another rule-of-thumb being that the proper saddle height is: the highest possible without wobbling the hips down to reach for pedals. So I would be fine from that point of view.

Which rule of thumb is most important? Is it a problem that my heel can't touch the pedal?

This leads me to my other problem which is an obvious leak in a bike maneuvering/driving having learnt on my own at the age of 20+ ... : I cannot start without sitting on the saddle already. I have no trouble getting up from the saddle for some power pedaling, even just a second after starting, but I cannot get to start outside of the saddle.

Until now it was fine since I have quite a low bottom bracket and I could stand on my tip toe on one side and be sitting, but with the height increase, this is becoming a very painful option since I am on my very tip-tip-toe and a stop over 20 seconds is very uncomfortable.

I know it is a leak on my side. But it just freaks me out. It is probably that as much the fact of starting out of the saddle as much as it is starting with a position way more in the front of the bike than usual, it just does not feel right, I feel I will lose balance (since the "usual comfort position" is way more in the back).

I feel like an idiot but just can't seem to overcome that "fear" (yep, ridiculous, I know...)

Same goes for stopping, feels weird to have to brake and get one's butt so much in front and so low at the same time,...

Any tips?


texts: Would variable crank arm length be beneficial to a rider?

texts:
I was thinking it would be cool to have a bike where the crank arms can be adjusted automatically "on the fly", depending on load.  If that is not  so safe then maybe a manual adjustment that the rider could make from a control mounted on the handlebars while riding.  For example, when extra torque is needed, the crank arms could be extended to maybe 180mm.  When cruising along on flat pavement on a windless day (or with wind at the riders back), shorter crank arms might be desirable to save on excessive leg motion.  Having adjustable crank arm lengths might actually extended the effective gear range even wider.  For example, suppose the crank arm length adjustment is between 180mm and 140mm and is currently set in the mid portion of 160mm.  The rider then attempts to ride up one of those spiral walkways that are part of a pedestrian bridge over a roadway.  If the lowest gear has already been selected but more hill climbing torque is needed, extending the crank arms from 160mm to 180mm should help.  Even if 180mm is excessively long for the rider, it is only temporary until they crest the hill, then they can be reset back to 160mm.  I think that would be another fun thing to play with on a bike.

So my question is would this be beneficial to a rider and if so, why don't I see these available?  Has anyone attempted to make this, either homemade or available to the general public?  From an Engineering viewpoint, can it be done?  If so, how?


texts: How do I adjust my rear coil suspension?

texts:
I have a full suspension bike with rear spring-style suspension.

I find the rear suspension too soft. How do I make it firmer?


texts:
I see a crack on the carbon frame of my bike

https://www.dropbox.com/s/flqrue2plzyqki9/DSC_0118.JPG?dl=0

The bike is around 4 years old but I just notice the crack line now.  I think there was always some kind of a hairline crack just a few months after getting it.  Its about 3/4 away around, but is it paint or more serious ? the picture is not the best.

What are my options going forward ? do you start to look at a replacement frame, send it to be fixed  ? (its a Cannondale Super Six 105 Carbon 2012)


texts: Which Shimano Centerlock Rotors Work with Avid BB7 Mountain Brake Calipers?

texts:
I spent a lot of time trying to figure this out, so I thought I would post this to maybe save others the hassle.
The problem: Avid BB7 Calipers don't play nice with many of the popular Shimano Centerlock rotors.

The center spider on these rotors can extend so far that it fouls the little brass tabs at the base of the BB7 brake pads, especially if you're using the smallest, 160mm rotors.

(True, you can cut those little tabs off easily enough, but that doesn't fix the 2nd problem.)

The broad center spider (there to increase stiffness and provide a heat sink) makes the rotor so stiff that it doesn't work well with the Avid BB7's single-side push design. It can't effectively shove the rotor from the outboard side toward the inboard pad, so you'll get poorer braking, uneven wear, and frequent pad replacement will be required.


texts: Do I need a bike bag / box to put my bike on the Eurostar?

texts:
The Eurostar website has a page that really should say but doesn't:

http://www.eurostar.com/UK/uk/leisure/travel_information/at_the_station/bicycles.jsp

I'm guessing I don't?

Would also be interested in any other experiences/hints/tips anyone has for transporting bikes on the Eurostar.

Thanks!


texts: Why is there a gap between my crank and bottom bracket?

texts:
I just fitted a Tiagra crank arm to my bike. I noticed that there was a gap between the bottom bracket and arm and was concerned whether I fitted the arm correctly.

I tried to force the crank arm further down the axle to reduce the gap but was unable to do so. The bottom bracket is an Ultegra BBR60. Is the gap normal or do require a spacer?

Appreciate any advice.

Ps the chainset is also Tiagra.


texts: Can this damage to my brake mounts be repaired?

texts:
So, I tried to take some brakes off of a bicycle to change my old-style callipers with V-brakes; the results were not good.

One of the "heads" or "lugs" was so caught in brake itself that I managed to torque it clean off of the bicycle trying to remove it.  The darn thing is STILL caught inside the brake, it's just not attached to the bicycle any more.

Is there any way to fix this sort of damage or is the bike a goner?  I assume I need to find someone who can weld.

Also, how did a tube inside of another tube get SO stuck that it took all of my strength to even start moving it with tool?


texts:
I bought a used bike with Sram 7 gear hub and after a few weeks, the chain started falling of all the time. I took it to a bike shop and they told me that the problem is in the gear hub, that it's not working as it should and because of that, the rear wheel keeps moving out of it's place, out of the dropouts. They also told me that probably no shop here in Denmark would be willing to do the rebuild of the hub.

Is this true? The cost of a new hub is more than 50% of the price I bought the bike for, so it doesn't seem reasonable to invest any more money in it.


texts: I have damaged the rim of my rear Shimano RS21 wheel (unexpectedly hit a sharp kerb) which affects braking quite severely so I was wondering if it is possible to replace just the rim and not the whole wheel (the rest is in perfect condition). I've searched a number of online shops and none seem to offer Shimano rims, do Shimano not sell them separately?


texts: Are Deore trekking / MTB groupsets compatible with cyclocross frames for touring conversion?

texts:
I have a pre-disc-brake vintage 10 speed cyclocross bike that has already seen me through some tours, however, I find the compact chainring is sometimes not geared low enough. I'm also growing increasingly frustrated with the lack of support for 10 speed shifters / components now that Shimano's road components have moved-on... I've previously converted from drop bars to flat bars.

It seems like the "trekking" T6000 and T8000 groupsets might be worth considering, but they are hard to find, and appear to be slightly modified versions of the M series mountain versions.

I'm curious if touring cyclists have had much luck finding and using the T6000 or T8000 series components on road frames, or else the M6000 / M8000 mountain bike equivalents. Any issues with compatibility?


texts: I am in the process of upgrading my road bike from 3x9 Sora FD/Tiagra RD with Sora shifters to 3x9 105 FD/RD.  Any suggestions on shifter upgrades?  Derailleurs have been replaced, have new SRAM  9spd cassette and chain, all work OK, but would like different shifters to finish improvements. Would any newer 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace be compatible, or should I focus on a hunt for a decent used set?


texts: Can Shimano Claris R2000 shifters be paired with Claris 2400 derailleurs?

texts: Can I use the modern looking shifters with the older model derailleurs without any problems in shifting?


texts:
Sometimes I ride in the park which has no light. There always are dog walkers, runners and other cyclists.
So, when I ride towards someone I have two options:

dim my light and slow down (since I can't go fast anymore)
speed up to to minimize time that I light on those people

My front light is:

So, the question is: how to be less irritating?


texts: Should I lubricate rear derailleur wheels

texts:
Replacing the chain I found  that the plastic wheels of the rear derailleur are rotating with high resistance.

So I disassembled the wheel, cleaned it from dirt and sprayed with WD-40. Here is how it looks now:

I have Motul Tech grease 300, that I used to lubricate the ball bearings in the hub. So, should I put the grease between the steel cylinder (how is it called?) and the inner round hole of the wheel?

Or it will just attract dirt and make things worse?


texts: How to estimate price of an old CrMo frame?

texts:
So it happened.

My old good CrMo friend got hit by a car and the blow was heavy enough to affect the whole frame. Now the car driver is expected to pay back the expenses but I am not sure how to estimate the price of such an old frame.

It is a road bike frame, order-made in Japan somewhere in nineties and all I know is its serial number. Can take pictures of some particular parts if it helps for the estimate.

What are the signs of high-end or a low-end frame, so that I know how much to ask?  Where to look?

Pictures:


texts: How do I figure out what crankset replacement will fit my derailleur?

texts:
I have a bike with a Shimano FC-M560 crankset in the front which I want to replace. I naively bought a Shimano FC-TY301 crankset, thinking that there's norms and that 3-speed cranksets are more or less interchangeable.

Fast forward; the distance between the new crankset's chainrings is larger than the old ones. Since the Shimano Deore LX derailleur doesn't go as close to the seat tube, the chain will rub against the cage when on the smallest chainring.

My question is: How do I select a part that will fit my particular derailleur without relying on the exact series? (The exact components are expensive to get at this point since they're not made anymore).

The service manual here seems to refer to a quantity named stroke, is that the relevant number here?


texts: What does "11-25" mean in the cassette description?

texts:
I need to replace the chain and cassette on my bike soon but I don't know what teeth to count.

The Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Road Cassette - has 11 gears on the back so I know to go for the 11- bit but I don't know the second part -

e.g 11-23t 11-25t 11-28t 11-32t

I think its 25 but what am I meant to count ?

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Photos?preview=DSC_0115.JPG


texts: How to deal with long pre-bled brake line?

texts:
I bought and installed a set of pre-bled hydraulic brakes onto my bike to replace the mechanical discs that came with it. My future plan is to buy a new bike, transfer the brakes to my wife's bike and replace the old discs onto my bike and sell it.

In the meantime I have a very long rear line, about 30cm extra, that I'm struggling to manage. I've looped it and cable tied it on both sides of the loop, once back on itself and again to the front brake line. Unfortunately this solution slips a lot so I'm looking for a better one. At this stage performance of the brakes seems ok with this method.

Does anyone know of a better solution or is getting them shortened by my LBS the way to go?


texts:
My fiancee expressed interest in going on rides together, so I borrowed my mom's old purple Univega Via De Oro that's running 21sp Shimano STX-RC.  I replaced the cables and overhauled the shifters, and rides had been going well.  Yesterday I pulled the bike off the wall to find that the front tire was flat.  The tires are TopGear Stratos 700x35c on Mavic 622x17 rims, and they're feeling kinda brittle.

Edit:
Which compounds make up a tire or what should I look for in a tire to meet the following qualifications:
Thorn resistance
Comfortable ride
Enough width to reduce getting trapped in ruts
I don't care too much about rolling resistance.  We're going on fun rides.  I just don't want to worry about changing the tube frequently.
Thanks in advance!


texts: Why do people use bigger cassettes for lower gearing when they could instead use smaller chainrings?

texts:
I want lower (sub 1:1) gearing on my next drivetrain but also a decent range, reasonable spacing between gears and still be reasonably light.

While looking at different combinations of components, I noticed that:

1x options were not nearly as light as I expected, mostly due to the huge cassettes needed for decent range.
On 2x, large cassettes were killing my weight compared to "standard" road setups (50/34 compact double with 11-28 cassette).
Shimano GRX setups gain weight in all the components, partially negating their gearing benefits.

At this point, for a lark, I threw in some randonneur type cranks and the old heavy bottoms brackets that go with them, and noticed the numbers coming up not that much worse than modern drivetrains.

Furthermore, I found that some rando cranksets can be made to come with super small chainrings. One manufacturer I looked at went down to 42/26(!), and pairing this with an Ultegra 11-28 met my criteria and was the lowest weight combination. I'd love to buy an Ultegra 42/26! Just imagine what that would weigh!

So, why don't more people use smaller chainrings? Or the flip side to this question: why don't drivetrain manufacturers offer them?

Is this just the standard reason that "the bike industry is driven by racers"? Or am I missing some obvious physical thing that makes smaller chainrings inferior? Should I just give up and become a retrogrouch?

This answer seems claims that smaller cogs have more friction, but it doesn't seem like it would be a lot more, considering we have "small" cogs on most of our cassettes.


texts: I recently saw a bicycle on display that was labeled as circa 1895 (from the White Crown bicycle company), and the fork blades appear to be made from a single piece of tubing bent into a U-shape (see image). All other bikes I've seen from that era appear to use separate pieces for each blade. Is it possible this bike is later than 1895 or was that design actually in use by then?


texts: Can you be ticketed for breaking the speed limit on a bike?

texts: Given that bikes aren't required to have a speed indicator, can you be arrested or ticketed for breaking the speed limit on a bike?


texts: I'm trying to find a decent racing bike for my next triathlon (on the cheap). I saw this bike on Craigslist with no information about the model or features. Can anyone help me figure out what bike this is and how much it is worth?


texts:
I own this Fuij Roubaix 2008 model road bike, its an aluminium frame with carbon front and rear forks. I already did 25000km on the bike and replaced wheels, chainring, a couple of cassettes, chains and so on.

Will the frame wear out? I am only concerned that the frame will ware out and fail during riding, otherwise I like the bike since its suits me, the size is just right and I like the non-sloping frame.

I am concerned about frame because the rear bolts between the carbon seat stays and the aluminium chain stays were lose and there is this mechanic which every time it sees me with the bike says that its going to break.

What do you think? I would avoid buying another bike not because of the cost but because I like my bike and to the new one I would have to adjust a bit.

Basically I am asking how to know when to replace a bike or a bike's frame,


texts: If I have a wheel listed as 8-10 speed Campy compatible, will a 11-speed Campagnolo cassette fit it?  I seem to remember that they didn't change their standards when they moved to 11-speed, unlike Shimano and SRAM.  I just don't have enough experience with Campy to say for sure.  Anyone out there done this conversion and can tell me for sure?


texts:
I am a 16mi/day commuter and have been for the last two years.  When I bought my bike the first thing I replaced was the warn stock saddle with one of those "couch on a stick" models.  Say what you will, I put over 3300 miles on that saddle before the rails broke.

I now need a new saddle.  The LBS whats to sell me a $70 leather one that is frankly out of my price range. (I bought the whole bike for $50).  What is a good second saddle that will hold up to an admittedly rough commute, be comfortable and not break the bank?

Update:

The bike is a Alta Mongoose frame with 1.5" road tires. During the summer I ride in padded bike shorts, winters are often in rain gear.  Once a month or so I need to ride in slacks and dress shoes when I have a meeting downtown. I also take it out for an occasional weekend ride.

An older picture, I have since added fenders, new tires, and a better rack:


texts: Shimano saint chain ring lower than 34 teeth?

texts: I have just purchased a bike with a Shimano 34T sm-cr82 chain ring and crank set.  Is there a 30teeth chainring that you can put onto it to make it easier to ride uphill?


texts: Where is the best place to park a folding bike?

texts:
This is quite a generalised question, but I'm looking for some principals to follow when looking for parking for my folding bike, that I just bought this morning. I think the ideal situation would be if I had an office - I would just put it under my desk then - but I am a student without an office. I want the parking to be secure, because my bike is new and shiny, and having it indoors means that it won't get wet in the rain. One of the reasons why I like cycling is that I can park very close to the place I have to be, so that leads me to think that I could lock my bike up at the back of a lecture hall, where it is out of the way, or in the passage outside. I don't want to be a nusiance, because people aren't used to seeing bikes parked inside. But, on the other hand, they probably don't understand my desire to select the most secure place to put my bike.

The prinicple I'm thinking of at the moment is to take it into the same room as I am in if I am going to a meeting, or lock it in the passage where it is out the way, if the room is too full. What about longer-term parking, e.g. parking for the whole day? Could it be in a big, open, indoor public area? It there logic to parking it outside where the bike racks are? I have a locker, but I think it doesn't fit inside my locker.

I'm planning on using it to park my car further away than usual, and cycling the rest of the distance.

Edit: I wouldn't leave it without locking it.


texts: BB and Crank compatibility with Pressfit 86.5

texts: The bike frame I'm buying says that It is Pressfit BB86.5 (road), What are my options in terms of bottom brackets and cranks? I would like to get a BB30 Sram Force crank is this possible?


texts: Does chain tension change how hard/easy it is to pedal?

texts:
I ride a single speed bike and it seems to be tougher than it should be to pedal. It is comparable to one of the higher gears on a multi-speed bike. I'm getting the feeling that my chain may be too tight.

It has a 44:16 gear ratio.

Would a looser chain make it easier to pedal?

Obviously you don't want the chain too loose or you risk having the chain pop off.


texts: Straigtening a rim with 7mm deviation in a single section

texts:
In a recent crash my front rim experienced significant sideways force. There was no burring on the lip of the rim, but the section was (eye-measured but perfectly drawn) (y is left-right deviation):

Firstly, I was surprised that the wheel isn't showing a similar kink on the other side of the circle.

Then I tried to straighten the bent section. First I readjusted all the spokes under the dent, plus a couple more on the edges. This reduced the kink a little. Then I went around the rim, "fixing" left-right adjustment, ovality and dish, while being careful for over- and undertightening spokes.

It didn't work. The spokes directly under the kink needed to be force overtightened and this still about halved the problem.

Next I loosened all the spokes and re-adjusted them. The end of the process was marked by the rapture of the nipple in the centre of the kink. The wheel was twice as true as before (measured by looking and handwaving) (so deviations are now 1/4 of those in the picture).

I have no intention of replacing the broken nipple. The hub sounds like an old alcoholic coughing. But for the next time: What is a good procedure for straightening a rim as shown in the picture?


texts: Campagnolo Veloce compatibility - small rear derailleur with larger (29 or larger) cassette?

texts:
I recently bought myself a second-hand Condor Fratello. It is fitted with Campy Veloce (mix) groupset, currently with a 12-25 cassette. I'm coming from riding a 105 (11-32 cassette) for years, and this new ratio is really tough for me. So, I want to upgrade the rear cassette and chain, but keep the other existing hardware.
As far as I can tell, I have a short Veloce rear derailleur (Given that you can buy two versions of this derailleur, a 'short' or 'medium' version, see here: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/campagnolo-veloce-10sp-rear-derailleur/rp-prod57880). See below for a photo of the derailleur as it's mounted to the bike.
Here's my question: I'd love to get a cassette that provides the 'easiest' gearing possible, ideally something close to the ratio I had on my 105. Will the Veloce 13-29 (https://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-veloce-10-speed-cassette) work with this derailleur? Moreover, could I go ahead and grab a Campy cassette from a different product range with an even more comfortable gear ratio?


texts:
So I have a kona Dr dew which is technically a hybrid. More road bike than mountain. I've only had this bike less than a year but I really like the look of it but I want to install drop handlebars. I understand this will also mean I will need to change the brakes and shifters. Anyone know a good reasonably priced set up I could use?

Here's the spec of the bike

FRAME MATERIAL  Kona 6061 Aluminum Butted
SIZES   46, 49, 53, 56, 59, 61cm
REAR SHOCK  n/a
FORK    Kona Project Two Aluminum
CRANKARMS   SRAM Via Centro
CHAINRINGS  32/48t
B/B SRAM Powerspline
PEDALS  VP 198
CHAIN   SRAM PC1031
FREEWHEEL   SRAM PG1030 11-36t 10 spd
CHAINGUIDE  n/a
F/D SRAM Via Centro
R/D SRAM Via Centro
SHIFTERS    SRAM Via Centro
BRAKE CALIPERS  Shimano M446 Hydraulic
FRONT BRAKE ROTOR   Shimano 160mm
REAR BRAKE ROTOR    Shimano 160mm
BRAKE LEVERS    Shimano M446 Hydraulic
HEADSET TH ZST No.10
HANDLEBAR   Kona Deluxe Energy
STEM    Kona Commuter
SEATPOST    Kona Double Clamp w/offset
SEAT CLAMP  Kona Clamp
GRIPS   Velo Ergo
SADDLE  Freedom Aon
FRONT HUB   Formula
REAR HUB    Shimano M475
SPOKES  Sandvik Stainless 15g fr / 14g rr
RIMS    Freedom Ryder 21
FRONT TIRE  Continental CityRide 700x32c
REAR TIRE   Continental CityRide 700x32c


texts: Threads visible on axle of rear fixed wheel

texts:
See attached photo, I can see the threads on the drive side of my axel. Is this something that I should be worried about?

Edit:
Other side for reference


texts: What is the frame called that fits 700c wheels?

texts:
I have a set of 700c wheels and am looking to buy a used frame.

I want a frame that fits the 700c tires so I don't have to file down the front dropouts or use long reach brakes.

What are the frames called that fit 700c tires?


texts: What is the name of this small component inside Shimano Tourney STI

texts: What is the name of the component outlined in red in the image, that seats the head of the brake cable?


texts: Is there an easy way of working out which way round to apply a chain whip to a cassette for its removal? I've taken plenty of them off in my time but always end up having a couple of tries at it before I put it on the right way round.


texts: Can I install a double chainset on a bike that was originally designed for a triple chainset?

texts: I have a BTwin Triban 3 which has a triple chainset that needs replacing. I am thinking of replacing it with a double chainset this time. Is this possible, or do I need new shifters and a different rear cassette? Could someone please link me to a good tutorial that will show me how to replace the chainset.


texts: Why are my front suspension forks so stiff?

texts:
I recently bought a Silverback Stride 29 MD and the forks it came with were the SR Suntour XCE 28. From Day 1 of riding the bike, I noticed that the forks were extremely stiff and I had to exert a lot of energy just to compress the forks. The advertised travel for the forks was 100 mm, however, the forks do not even travel half of the advertised distance. I tried messing around with the preload adjusters but that didn't do much. The forks also do not "Sag" when I sit on the bike but I'm not sure whether "sag" only applies to air forks.
In conclusion, the issue is that the forks feel very stiff and require a lot of energy to compress and do not travel even half the advertised travel distance.
(PS. I weigh 52 kgs if that's any help).


texts: Bought a Genesis bicycle for £100 and wanted to know if it was worth it since I can't quite identify the exact model

texts:
I'm not seeing any cue in regards to the model, thought that maybe there's someone here who could help me identify it.
Thanks in advance :D


texts: How to clean up at work after a commute?

texts: I would like to bicycle commute to work, but we don't have showers or any place I can change. How can I clean up and carry clothing? My office is business casual, but I need to look neat and presentable.


texts: Can I use a Vittoria Zaffiro 700 * 25c road bike tyre with a hole in outer rim of the tyre?

texts: My road bike tyre got punctured couple of days ago and I just noticed that it resulted in a hole in the outer wall of my tyre. How can I close this hole? I rode just 500kms on this tyre so I am not sure if I need to replace it with a new one


texts: New chain and cassette makes cycling much more difficult

texts:
I had a new chain and cassette fitted yesterday. But today, hills which I could easily climb two days ago are now horrendously challenging. What was a pleasure has just become a nightmare. Why is this happening? What should I do?

The bike is a Specialized Tricross, about 4 years old. Never had new rear cassette before, but has had new front cogs, new derailleur, and previously one new chain. The bike appears to work OK when on a rack. See my comment below, please.

Edit. Update with new information:
Counted teeth as follows: front 50/30, rear 28/11. There are eight rear cogs. The front cogs were changed a year ago, so I have been accustomed, and the shop advised at the time, original size was now obsolete. It would seem that the rear cassette changed ten days ago is a different size to original, and it seems this may explain my struggling to ride with same positioning of gears as previously. Each of the numbers I have quoted here I counted twice. Seems a different size of cassette was fitted


texts: If I have a 20 inch frame what is the biggest size tire I could put on it? I was just wondering  if anyone knew before I go try it.


texts: What is the purpose of the 'tire guide' screws on shimano brakes

texts: On Shimano Ultegra and Dura-ace brake calipers there are round-head slot screws in the lower section of the brake pad holder. In the BR-6600 spare parts catalogues they are labeled as 'tire guide' (item 13), however they are not mentioned in the user manual. They are also absent from Shimano 105 brakes and from comparable SRAM brakes. What is their function?


texts:
I am going on a long 200 mile tour over 3 days with six other people. We are riding down to Washington DC and then renting a car to drive back. We thought we could rent a Van or SUV and have two people drive that and fit all the bikes in it if the seats fold down. Then Rent another car for the rest of the people to fit in and drive back.

The bikes will mostly be 26 inch tire bikes with medium to large frames. Two of the bikes will be large framed 700cc tired bikes.

Any suggestions if this is possible?


texts: Understanding how to calculate critical power curves

texts:
Hello fellow cyclists,

There are services out there that can calculate power curves based on your bike ride (when training with a power meter).

This curve shows the time to exhaustion (t) based on the power P. So let's assume that my maximum power is 1000 Watts, then this formula will. calculate how long it would take to be totally exhausted (probably not that long for me).

The formula I keep seeing is this: P(t) = W’/t + CP

This formula looks extremely easy and yet I have trouble understanding what those values are. Are there any calculation examples out there?
If I understand this correctly, CP is the critical power. This is the power that can be sustained (theoretically) infinitely. I have to provide this value, so let's just assume this is 200 Watts.

What is W'? According to the internet, this is the work capacity that is currently available. How can I calculate this?

Are there any example calculations?

Example activity (not real numbers, just for an example calculation):

Duration 1h, 3600 seconds

FTP = 200 Watts

CP = 160 Watts

Power During Ride: 3600 data points, every even data point is 150 Watts and every odd one is 120 Watts.

I also now that there are way more complicated formulas out there, but I would like to understand this simpler one first.

TL;DR: What is W' and how can I calculate it based on my bike ride.

Any help is appreciated.


texts: Purpose of partially filled in rear drop out

texts:
I have an old MTB frame that has the drive side rear dropout partially filled in as if it was part of the original forging of the dropout.  And, I have seen this on a few other frames -- even different manufacturers.

Clearly it was done to limit how far back the axle can go in the dropout but the question(s) is(are):

why does the frame maker want to control this detail?

why is it only on the drive side?.

=== edit ===

To clarify...

This is not the bike in question but it is an example of what I mean. My apologies to the site where I found this -- it was not copyrighted.


texts: I'm currently trying to unlock my bike that has been sitting on my porch for a while, the key works and turns, and I can hear the lock engaging/disengaging, however I cannot get the shackle to come out. I think their might be dust/sand stuck in the mechanism however I'm not sure how to get it off now to check.


texts:
I have a friend that refuses to attempt to learn to ride a bike without training wheels/being a tricycle, despite being 22 years old and an avid jogger.....

I have an 30 year old touring bike, and a hybrid that is more on the mountain bike end of things.

I've noticed that adult training wheels are horribly expensive, and I don't have $200 to blow on a set.

I've come up with some crazy ideas that I might discuss with a professor from my engineering mechanics class, but does anyone have an affordable way to set up training wheels on a "typical", if you will, adult bike?


texts: How to decelerate during long downhill rides and avoid brake glazing

texts:
I mostly ride touristic style, and its not uncommon descents of few hundred meters or even 1000 meters (vertically, usually average gradient is around 5-10%). What's the best technique to brake to avoid glazing of brakes?

Theory

I've heard following advices:

pulse brake instead of constantly braking
use alternately front and rear brake
create as much of aerodynamic drag as you can to reduce the pressure on brakes

Apart from that, I have following theories:

brake pads have some temperature above which they will start to glaze, so I should brake in such way, to avoid exceeding this temperature
if I brake suddenly with great power, brake pads/disc rotors/rims will have to absorb a lot of energy which translates to heat, if I brake gently - less heat is generated
if I brake with both brakes energy will be divided between two brakes so as heat (though not necessarily evenly - division depends on the force applied on brake levers)
the greater the speed, the greater aero drag, so if I go faster, less energy (in total) will need to be absorbed by brakes
the lower the speed, the longer the time that it takes to ride, so longer the time to dissipate the heat from brake system

Braking strategies

So based on all above I have two strategies for braking:

Brake as little as possible, but when needed (ex. before hairpin turn) brake shortly with great power and both brakes
Brake constantly using both brakes and maintain low speed (below 20km/h?)

First strategy is trying to use as much aero drag as possible and then it will generate a lot of heat in brake system. Though during the brakes it will have time to cool down again. Second strategy maintains constant high temperature of brakes, but provided low travelling speed I assume that temperature will not exceed glazing temperature.

These strategies I discarded:

Brake constantly and maintain low speed using alternating brakes. This means that although the brake that's not operating is chilling down the other gets full load and its temperature will be higher improving risk of exceeding glazing temperature.

Experiences

I've already glazed a few disc rotors:

In my commuting bike, I have one hill (700m long, 4% gradient), and I brake shortly but with great force
In my trekking bike - downhill on straight asphalt, starting with gradient above 10% where I gained ~50km/h later I tried to not gain any more speed using alternating brakes technique

Also I have a feeling, that after glazing, when I experience lower braking strength, if I ride a few downhills when I'm more gentle towards this brake it regains its effectiveness. Is it possible?

Though it might be problem solvable using different means (reduce my weight, use larger rotors). I'm looking that would work best, even on non-disc-brake bikes.

EDIT:

Final Question

To reduce number of variables, my final question is:
Given:

The speed Vn - which is the speed the biker would get if he would not brake nor pedal at all, when areo drag is preventing him from gaining any more speed from gravitational force.
Desired speed the biker would like to go Vd = R * Vn

What are the optimum braking strategies that:

Minimize time that it takes to ride 10km of such slope
Prevent brakes glazing

Depending on the R. If R >= 1 then the strategy is just not to brake at all, that's easy, but how to brake if R=0.5 or even R=0.1?


texts: Does anyone here have measurements of SRAM's direct-mount spline interface?

texts:
The makerspace I work in purchased a new metal milling unit and I want to test its software's tolerances and mill a narrow-wide chainring.

I'm guessing it just consists of a circle with square splines and radial holes for the fixing bolts. I'm not seeing anything on my searches.


texts: Can dropout break due to a faulty cassette or a bad installation?

texts:
Backstory: I currently have a BH Ultralight RC road bike that I use to ride to work. About 6 weeks ago I took it to the bike shop because the pedal was slipping over the cassette when I took off, so they changed the rear cassette and the chain, and they did a few other things. It cost $220, but The bike was running very smoothly.
Then about a week the dropout (that's what they called it) literally snapped and the rear derailleur got stuck in the rim. I took it to the shop again, they straightened the "transmission" (what they said), they also straightened and reused the chain, they changed the spoke and they installed a dropout. I picked it up and took it home.
The issue is that I rode it yesterday for the first and the ride is terrible: the pedal's slipping again, the chain is always scraping something regardless of the shift, and it's making all kinds of noises. It's just terrible.
Since they said that the cassette and the chain was damaged from the dropout break, I'm almost sure that they'll want to change the rear cassette and the chain once again. My concern is that the dropout has never snapped like it did before (I didn't even know that existed), and I'm thinking that it broke because they didn't install something right the first time I took it.
Question: is it possible that the dropout broke because something wasn't done correctly when the new cassette was installed?


texts: I have a large front rack that is 17 inches wide.  Is it possible to attach bike mirrors to the back side of the rack that extends to the right and left of the bike?


texts: Can single-sided Power meters cause unnatural Bilateral asymmetric pedaling?

texts:
In case it is not clear for everyone, let me briefly explain the graph. The pink line represents the Power output along the y axis while the grey dots represent Left/Right balance in Power. The x axis represents time.

I was aiming for 360 watts in the beginning. Assuming I had a single-sided Power Meter (for my right leg) it would have showed smaller numbers where the Power Balance was more towards my left leg.

The direct consequence in holding a specific amount of watts using a single-sided Power Meter would be that as the Power Balance shifts away from the leg with the Power Meter, the total actual Power will go up while the numbers remain the same. As the Power Balance shifts towards the right leg total Power goes down.

The indirect consequence is the mind would subconsciously (or even consciously) learn to use the right leg more than the left leg. Especially in those crucial moments, like the last 15 seconds of an interval.

I'm looking for evidence to backup my claim. And since I am 100% certain that I am correct, why do people use single-sided Power Meters? Why do they exist at all?


texts: How can I tell number of speeds on my road bike? 9, 10, 11?

texts: How can I tell how many speeds my road bike has?  I have a Shimano Ultegra groupset.  Thx


texts: Tires Not Taking in Air But Will Let Air Out

texts:
Have tried a number of times to inflate mountain bike tires with schrader valves using a pump but it never inflates.  Tires already inflated but feel a little low on air, so I go to pump them and the valves are not accepting air, just feels like I'm compressing the air in the pump.  It doesn't appear that the valve is blocked or anything because when I first put the pump on the valve it lets air out.

What is going wrong?


texts:
I have a burley kazoo trail-a-bike, which my five year-old and I are really enjoying. When not trailing my 5yo, I can easily put my Arkel pack onto the burley rack, but its attachment points don't quite fit when the kazoo is also attached. I'd like to do some bike-packing with my 5yo and thus need to attach panniers while he's on the back.

So I was wondering if there are any Kazoo riders out there who have found a decent bag that fits around the Kazoo's attachment point? Is this even an ok idea? Are there other suggestions for how else I might carry gear and a tail-a-bike?

EDIT: I wrote Burley about this. They said (a) their panniers will fit, but (b) they don't recommend having a kid on the kazoo at the same time as panniers, so I should get front racks instead.


texts: Pulley for 10 Gear Derailleur for 9 Gear Chain

texts: I am using a 10 gear XTR derailleur on a 9 gear cassette with a 9 gear chain and the tension pulley of the derailleur looks like needing replacement (despite teeth being very sharp it seems to work OK so far so i know i don't have to replace it, but i'm going on a tour so don't want problems during it). Should i replace the pulley with a recommended replacement (i.e. Y5XC98140) or use a pulley for a 9 gear XTR derailleur instead (i.e. Y5VW98120) since i am using a 9 gear chain anyway? The number of teeth is the same, so what's the difference between those pulleys? Can they have a different axle diameter as suggested here?


texts: How can I fix my rear derailleur's B-tension adjustment?

texts:
I've noticed that my rear derailleur (Ultegra 6700) will not return to where I've set the B-tension adjustment. Pulling it away from the hanger means it will just stick there, or maybe move back a little bit. Comparing to other bikes with Shimano rear derailleurs, mine seems to be odd one out.

It mostly causes annoyance when removing the rear wheel -- I have to push the derailleur back "in" afterwards, instead of relying on it just naturally going back to the correct position.


texts: 1970-80's Roadmaster bike makes a clicking noise when turning right

texts: A 70's/80's Roadmaster Pursuit bike makes a clicking noise when turning right. It doesn't make any noise when riding straight or turning left. It doesn't seem to matter how close the turn is. I have checked the headset and all bearings are fine. I checked the axle and that is fine too. I cleaned and greased both and still makes the noise.  Any suggestions as to what else could it be causing it?


texts: Can road disc calipers be mounted on a mountain bike?

texts:
Are the mounting posts and position for road disc brake calipers the same as or similar enough to mountain bike disc calipers that you could put a set of road disc brakes on a mountain bike or vice-versa?

I'm aware that this generally requires road brake levers, and that you also need to make sure any drop bar levers are compatible with your derailleurs. However, my question here is narrowly about how you would convert the brakes of a disc-equipped mountain bike to something drop bar compatible.

If that can be done, what are the downsides to be aware of?


texts: How do I mount this Topeak rack onto this road bike with disc brakes?

texts:
I've browsed several closely related questions already, but haven't found one quite like my issue yet.

I have the following rack, a Topeak Tourist for Disc Brake bikes (with a matching Topeak trunk bag with panniers)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZKHN6Y/

And I have a 2014 Diamondback Century Sport Disc. It has 700c tires, which the reviews for the above rack suggested would be fine. Anyway, clearance isn't the issue at hand. Here's some pictures of the bike - hopefully they're helpful.

http://imgur.com/a/O7dfS <-- More pictures of bike!

Up until now I've been using a hybrid bike with no panniers... so I have next to no familiarity with racks. I've looked into the issue, but feel increasingly suspicious about whether there's any way to mount these. If I can I'd be most pleased, although I'd need the method pointed out (and I've experimented; for example, you notice the two bolts above the quick-release lever in the last picture? those are too large to work double duty for the rack; they don't fit the thing) - but if not:

I've heard stuff about p-clips (like Halfords 19mm Luggage P Clips - again, no link). I'm not sure what problem they exist to resolve; it looks like it's mine, but - there's always two different places to attach a rack (triangles and all that), plus more than that in different styles of rack (some attach to a seat post, apparently) and I'm not entirely sure if these would help my issue or the one I'm not having.
I heard a recommendation for the "Tubus Adapter Set for Quick Release Axle Mounting." Ignoring quality concerns (I can make a judgement call), would that be a good purchase for me in that it might resolve my problem?
Same for the "Tubus Clamp Set - Rack Eyes for Seat Stay Mounting," which is apparently related to p-clips.


texts: Bottom bracket Stronglight JP400 equivalents

texts:
I need to replace my bottom bracket cartridge because it is knackered. After a bit of reading it seems that there may be many types of cartridge variations (axle lengths, threads, size of square taper, etc etc). So I'm not sure how to fully specify the required replacement so I can be certain it will fit (other than buying the exact same part).

The old part is marked as a Stronglight JP400 122mm.
Chainset is Shimano.
Bottom bracket shell width is about 69mm (as near as I can measure it). Frame is aluminium.


texts: Are there any generic hose extensions for frame pumps?

texts:
I see two kinds of portable frame pumps to carry with me on my riding:

Pmps that have a flexible hose that is either integral or pulled out and/or screwed on (e.g. Topeak Road Morph, or Lezyne).  The nozzle is at the end of the hose.
Pumps that have a nozzle that is right-angle to the pump tube, directly part of the pump itself.

The former are generally quite expensive, and the latter ones don't provide good leverage and are prone to bending the valve tip or coming off the valve while pumping, etc.

It seems so obvious to me that there should be a simple hose of, say 8 inches long, that would have a nozzle on one end to attach to the bike tube and the other end a fake Schrader or Presta valve head that the bike pump's nozzle would attach to.

However, I have not seen them online or in stores.

This product, if it exists, would be able to provide a lot of the convenience of those fancier pumps at a fraction of the cost, not to mention it would be a generic way to upgrade existing frame pumps.  Of course, the extension should be able to handle the air pressure used for bike tires.

Can anyone tell me if they do exist and, if so, where I could get one, or what they are called?


texts: I'm planning on packing my bike for transportation with both wheels off. I have SRAM Apex disc brakes on the bike. What are the risks if ever the brake leavers get squeezed during transportation ?


texts: Anyone know which wires come out of this controller?  One is not connected and I don't know where it goes!  Thanks so much!]1


texts: Should I buy average tires with puncture resistant tire liners or just puncture resistant tires?

texts:
The reason I am asking this is I am a pretty big rider who carries cargo sometimes. Let us say close to three hundred pounds all told. The streets where I live are terrible with many pot holes. There are also a lot of construction sites that will be there for the next few years. I got nine
flats in one month/150 kilometers. They are not pinch flats. All are at
the exact center of the outside of the tube. They are not always in the same spot either. Only once have I seen any debris embedded in the tire and I didn't think it was responsible for the flat. They are the stock tires from when I bought the bike a 2017 Norco Yorkville. I would just bite the bullet and buy great tires like schwalbes but could really use the funds elsewhere on the bike. I forgot to mention. The tires are inflated to 75 P.S.I. close to the 80 max.


texts: Bike trainer 11 speed cassette compatibility with Ultegra 6500 9 speed groupset

texts:
Disclaimer. I don’t know much about bike mechanics. I had to do a lot of reading just to be able to name things right and to be able to write this post :)

I bought Elite Suito bike trainer a few days back and now I think I’m in trouble. Elite Suito comes with 11 speed 11-28 cassette. My bike has an old Shimano Ultegra 6500 groupset with 39/53 crankset and 9 speed 11-23.

So what are my options?

Can I do minimum upgrade to get my bike to fit 11 speed cassette?
Can I downgrade my trainer cassette to 9 speed to match my bike?
?


texts: I have a TREK 3500 Bike, 2015 model, and I've been looking for a compatible front fender. The standard strap-ons don't work, as the front fork is also the suspension.


texts: Should I ring my bell before going around corners?

texts:
I'm in a town in Bavaria, Germany and the local custom with the more dangerous corners is to honk a horn or ring a bell. Will this actually make me safer?

Currently I am cycling in a half-urban environment. Having moved recently, I find the new city's biking infrastructure to be fairly dangerous, with many intersections designed to be dangerous ("traffic slowdown") and with new, not-yet-well-known yielding rules where most people still speed through without slowing down to look first.

Knowing that the safest conduct would be very slow cycling (but impractical given the density of dangerous places), I've taken to auditory messaging, i.e. ringing my bell before dangerous places and corners, and I know quite some people who have upgraded their bell to a horn to gain some safety. On the other hand, I've spoken with a number of residents who find this excessive bell-ringing and horn-honking disturbing, especially the people living at these dangerous corners.

Does an auditory signal appreciably improve my safety?


texts: The pros and cons of crank self-extractors

texts:
I'd like to know more about the reliability of self-extracting crank bolts, but haven't found much information on how they perform (or how they don't).

My interest stems from touring and international travel, but also from practicality. It seems like a no-brainer to be able to remove your crankarms with a common allen key without having to carry around a separate crank puller (or using riskier emergency removal methods).

Beyond concerns of not being able to remove the extractors themselves (for lack of a pin-spanner), I'd like to know whether these have a history of characteristic failure. I haven't found anything in the way of recommending them or condemning them.

I know that FSA, Sugino, and TA manufacture these gadgets, but are they as good on a bike as they are on paper? Are they simply unnecessary?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  29" wheels - what advantage do they provide over smaller wheels?

Do 29 inch wheels make a difference off road? They certainly cost more.


texts:
I rescued a bike from the trash and want to convert from 7 speed to 9 speed.  The biggest sprocket has "Lock Ring Type" printed on, so I assumed it was a 7 speed cassette (and I wanted to see if the free hub is a modern type that fits a 9 speed cassette).
However after taking the wheel out I noticed it looks like a freewheel rather than freehub with cassette.  Why does it say "Lock Ring Type" on the biggest sprocket?  Is this actually a freehub with a lockring that's unfamiliar to me?
I have included a picture (I removed the axle to have a closer look).


texts:
Which parts of a bike have reversed (left-handed) threads?

There's 1) the non-drive-side left pedal-to-crank threading and 2) the drive-side right bottom bracket cup (apparently sometimes called the fixed cup).

Is there anything else?


texts: Building bike from scratch: why more expensive than pre-built?

texts:
I was going to ask about the pros and cons of building one's bike from scratch, but I came to the conclusion that I'm not going to do it (asking and building).

Now my question is: why is it (usually, if we leave the silly high-end prices alone) more expensive to build a bike from scratch?


texts: Which country has the cheapest top-end mountain bikes?

texts: I'm living in Brazil where top-end mountain bikes are very expensive, due to high import tariffs. I'd like to know which country has the cheapest top-end mountain bikes? top-end would mean a bike which can handle a race and is light, not necessarily carbon-fiber.


texts: What's the most efficient riding style for losing weight?

texts:
I plan on setting up my bicycle with one of those devices that holds the rear tire and gives some resistance so I can exercise through the winter.  I think it's called a bicycle trainer.

When using one of those for weight loss: Is it better to ride for a long time on low resistance or at a low speed?  Or is it better to ride harder, spinning your legs faster or with more resistance for a shorter amount of time?

Sorry; there isn't even an exercise tag on here.  Feel free to retag as appropriate.


texts:
I let one of my son's friends take my circa 1995 Schwinn Moab Elite onto local trails and they came back with the shocks blown and parts of the spring assembly missing. I need to replace the front fork.

I took the following measurements:

steerer length is 210mm
thread length is 40mm
steerer diameter is 1" 1/8
travel is 50 or 60mm, certainly not 100mm
26" wheels
the bike has rim brakes

I am not sure what the "crown race" is and how to measure it. Do replacement forks come with bearings or will I be using the old parts?

I found this one online that seems to have the right dimensions - will it work?


texts: Racing bike feels bad to ride, can it be fixed?

texts:
I bought a sponsored racer's cross country bike because of its light weight and great components (giant anthem advanced team).

I had the consumer frame of the same name from five seasons ago in a 29"er and thought nothing much would be different.

I've since crashed several times on it and generally ride poorly, and for lack of a better term the bike feels finicky and twitchy.

What is different between a racer's XC bike and a standard consumer bike that might account for the terrible ride? I'd love to fix it as a 19 pound XC bike is pretty appealing...


texts:
I would like to ask if my bike is able to do enduro/AM racing.

Specs:

Giant Stance 27.5 2
Deore 2014 RD 10spd (with switch)
Deore 2014 shifters
Deore 2014 brake set
FSA Comet 24/30/40 crank set (stock parts, already hollow tech)
Alivio 2015 FD Highband
Rockshox gold tk 30 solo air 2015 fork 120mm travel (with rebound adjuster and lockout)
Rockshox Monarch R rear suspension 120mm travel (rebound only)
2014 ZTR Crest rims
origin 8 hubs
pillars spokes
Schawlbe nobby nic evo tires
Tubeless setup (stans sealant)
Deore 10 spd sprocket
Deore chain 10 spd(not sure if deore or just shimano non series)
Giant Cockpit(HB - 720mm, stem - 90mm +-6 degree, stock giant seatpost)

If I need to upgrade any parts then I'm open to suggestions, opinions and flames.


texts: Need a method to wrap H-bars with handlebar tape

texts:
I've gotten good at wrapping drop bars, using conventional cork tape: You start at the end and work your way up, keeping the tension even and watching the overlap, and it works perfectly for me.

But the H-bars on my Bike Friday have aways been a challenge. They're smaller and more finicky to wrap, but that's just a matter of time and practice. Specifically, getting the intersections at the bar joins to wrap cleanly has always been a problem:

Over time, the tape will invariably loosen because of this.

Can anyone suggest a method for doing this that will stay for longer? Should I wrap the main bars separately from the vertical bars? Is there some special secret way to do this? Or is this just a downside to this kind of bar?

Edit: I wrapped the bars from the top of the barend down to the bottom, then getting the main handlebars. The below picture shows the problem area; note the separate piece of tape.


texts: I bought a new cassette last week and they said that I also need to replace my chain. I only used that chain for 4 months and only rode my bike every sunday for 50 kilometers at max. Do I really need to replace my chain? I used the ruler method on testing chain wear and it's still okay.


texts: How do I efficiently shift gears on a road bike with downtube shifters?

texts:
I have bought a vintage Campagnolo road bike, so the shifters are on the down tube.

I own a mountain bike and i am used to changing gears on that one, but don't know the proper technique to change on this one.

Update

I am concerned about the technique (which hand to use, how do you keep the other on the handlebar)
how do you know to shift in the correct position without an indexed shifter
other tips and tricks


texts: I've had this mountain bike a little over 2 yrs. I had it serviced when I bought it because it was recommended even though it's not an expensive bike.  One day the chain slipped off multiple times which had never happened. Once I flipped it over I noticed the cassette was wobbly. Would this be an expensive repair and what exactly should I be looking at to have replaced?


texts: Are electronic security tags (e.g. Immobitag, Datatag) a good idea? Are the stickers likely to deter theft and does the electronic tag increase the chances of recovery in the event of theft?


texts: White graphite (hBN) a worthwhile chain lube?

texts: Hexagonal boron nitride, a.k.a. white graphite, is non-toxic, very very slippery, tends to stick to metal, tends to not have other substances stick to it, and seems to have worked very well in my first ride.  Anyone have reasons why I should wash it off real quick? :-)


texts: My girls have the exact same Nishiki mountain bikes. The purple one is actually a year newer but has significantly worse tread wear. Any idea why?


texts: Caliper road brakes on cantilever specific frame

texts:
I just bought a used bike with cantilever brakes that are very stiff (it's quite hard to push them) and weak. I have been fiddling with them for about two weeks now but to no avail (only the smallest improvement). Since I plan to use the bike for road only (it's originally a cross bike) I tought I would just switch the brakes to caliper ones and be done with it. The problem is that there are no caliper mounting holes only the canti ones.
I'm also kinda hesitant to buy new canti brakes because I don't want to waste my money and then find out the new brakes act the same way the old ones did.

My question is: Is it possible to install some kind of adapter/bridge on the cantilever mounting points so that I could install caliper brakes on it?

Also if you have any other ideas I would appreciate them greatly.

Thanks!

EDIT:
Here are the pictures I promissed, the front and rear brakes are basically identical, only difference us that the rear ones have longer brake pads.

I also forgot to mention that the spring is in the lowest hole so it should be really easy to push the levers.


texts: I've always bought 700x28/38 Specialized inner tubes for my bike, because that was what I was told fitted. But what do those numbers mean? How do I know that a specific inner tube will fit my bike?


texts:
I am looking to buy some cleats for the first time, but due to a misplaced cast of a broken leg when I was much younger my feet do not both point directly forward, my right foot is approximately 20 degrees from forward (pointing out to the side).

Would this be an issue using cleats.


texts: Chain really noisy near front derailleur on low gears but doesn't appear to be rubbing.

texts:
In the four lowest gears (i.e the 28 cog end) when in both the big and small ring, loud noises can be heard coming from what appears to be near the front derailleur. I've uploaded a video of the noise here:

If I shift up from the 4th smallest gear then the noise goes away. I've checked to make show the chain isn't rubbing on the derailleur cage, and it doesn't look like it is. I've attached a picture of what it looks like when in the small ring and the 3rd lowest gear in the back. I even tried to set the low limit of the front derailleur so the cage moves in further towards the bike to see if it was in fact the cage, but that didn't seem to make the noise go away either.

is there something I'm doing wrong here?


texts: 105 Shimano 10 speed shifters - compatibility with 11 speed rear derailleur

texts:
I am building a bike and I am using 10 speed Shimano 105 shifters.
On the back I am using a 11 speed 105 rear derailluer (because is the only one I have at the moment).
The cassette I am using is a standard SHIMANO TIAGRA CS-HG500-10 10 SPEED CASSETTE 11-25T.

Unfortunately, I am having some problems: when in biggest cog or second one, the chain moves out of the tension pulley and gets stuck (by the way the chain is a 11 speed chain, so width should not be an issue).

Does it seem like there could be something wrong with the chain line?

Any of you knows why it happens?
Did it happen to you?

Thanks already for your input!