texts:
I think there's two types of chain guide mounts, one of them is screwing in screws and another one is using the bottom bracket to hold it in place. Why not just use one type of mount? Is there a reason why they do this? Cuz I'm using the bb one and I don't see any problems. I want to add a chain guide that has a wheel at the bottom of the chainring to hold the chain but all of them are just exclusive for screw in ones.

And also, what's the name for both of them?


texts: Bike seems less stable when using handlebar bag

texts:
On a recent 3 week trip I used a handlebar bag (together with two back bags) to carry the stuff I needed.
In the handlebar bag I carried a reflex camera, my phone, a power bank and some candy.

While my bike normally feels really stable, the first few days with the handlebar bag were a nightmare: the handlebar constantly felt really wobbly, to the point I had to check it was not loose. Then I got used to the feeling, but still could not completely trust the bike.

Can the handlebar bag cause such behaviour, and how can I mitigate it?

Edit: I had a picture of the handlebar bag to give an idea of the dimension. About the mounting, the bag itself is firmly held on the handlebar, and also the content did not have much clearance to move inside, maybe less than a centimeter. The reflex bag basically left only the space for the smartphone.


texts: Which of these Mountain Bikes Choices is the Best?

texts:
The choices from local bike stores:

Used 2015 Cannondale SL 29 - 2 (Women's) - $750
2019 Haro Doublepeak 27.5 Trail - $760
2018 Specialized Pitch Comp 27.5 (Women's) -$700
2019 Specialized Rockhopper Sport 29 - $710
2019 Trek Roscoe 6 - $800

Also, my local bike stores probably have all other common models of Trek bikes if there is a different one you think would be better. I'm also not opposed to ordering a bike online, if there is a better option.

I don't have much experience mountain biking, I currently have a 2005 Fuji Nevada hybrid bike that I've done some light mountain biking with.

I am a 5'8" male. I don't have any issue with buying a women's bike though.

From these options, I'm currently leaning towards the used Cannondale SL 29, but like I said, I'm not very knowledgeable.

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated!!


texts:
i have a Cannondale Hooligan I on which I plan to remove the Shimano Nexus 3spd IGH and replace it with a derailleur gear system. This bike has ETRTO 406 aka 20 inch wheels.

I want to use an 11 speed XTR M9000 medium cage RD

My question is: what is the maximum number of teeth I can have on the cassette? I see there is a 11-46 or 11-42 and 11-40.

The question isn't about the capacity of the derailleur but about whether there will be enough clearance between the derailleur and the ground.

thanks!


texts: What's the easiest way to add gears to my single speed?

texts:
I recently bought a single speed - a Charge Plug Racer, and I realise I've made a mistake - too many hills on my commute and I need a smaller gear to help me up the hills. It's pretty hilly in my area.

I still like the simplicity of the bike, but cannot get up all these hills!

What's the easiest way to add a gear?


texts: Can I run a 700c/28"/29er wheel & tire on a 650B full-suspension mountain bike frame?

texts: I recently bought a 2015 Giant Anthem 3 27.5" full suspension mountain bike to build into an electric bike, however, all my other bikes (road bike, other electric bike) have 700c/29er wheels, and I think 700C/29er wheels might be better for this particular build. My new 27.5"/650B mountain bike is running relatively thick 2.25" mountain bike tires, and it has just over a half-inch of tire clearance on the front fork as well as the rear swingarm/triangle thing. I would like to change out the 27.5" wheels for 700C/29er wheels with smaller tires (say, 40C/1.75" tires). My working theory is that it would fit just fine, because the increase in wheel diameter would be offset by the decrease in tire diameter. Is this a workable, advisable change? Could I use the same brake rotors (160mm discs front and rear) on the 700C/29er wheels? Assuming that 700C/29er wheels would fit on my 27.5" frame, should I potentially avoid adding fenders due to the tighter tire clearance?


texts: Require a star tool to remove disc rotor

texts:
I need to change my disc brake rotors. I discovered that I require a star tool. Here is a picture of my rotor bolts. Can someone point out a tool that will fit this? Prefer a bike tool.

To give some indication of its size. The first size of hex key that becomes too big to fit within the star is: 4mm. 3mm fits within the star.

I have one of those wonderful screw drivers that come with 40 or so heads to fit all those different screw types (cheap china Ebay job), but the star in this kit does not fit snugly and I don't wish to risk rounding.


texts: Rear derailleur cage hits largest cog on cassette

texts:
I got a new rear derailleur for my wife's bike after a stick turned the original one into a twisted mess of metal. The derailleur is a Shimano Acera, the cage is slightly longer than the original.

The rear cassette is a Shimano MegaRange with 7 cogs, the largest being 34T and quite a bit larger than 2nd.

When engaged on the second cog, the inner cage plate begins to rub on the largest cog. Getting into the largest cog isn't possible due to interference with the cage. I tightened down the B screw all the way, but there just isn't enough room.

The inner part of the cage on the original derailleur is a bit shorter than the upper jockey wheel. On the new one, the inner cage goes a bit beyond the jockey wheel.

Is there some adjust I'm missing or a different part I should have gotten? Worst case, could I cut the inner cage plate back a bit for clearance?

EDIT:

I found the tiny stamping on the old deraileur, its a RD-M340. The new on is a RD-M360. Both claim to handle a 34T rear.

With a little manual intervention, I can get the chain up on the top cog and it turns smoothly.

The old (dirty) deraileur:

The new one in low:

The new one hitting the gear:


texts: What's the difference between Fulcrum Racing 3 and Fulcrum Racing S3?

texts:
I'm able to buy a set of Fulcrum Racing S3 wheels.  I searched in all their on line catalogues but the wheels in the picture the guy send me are nowhere to be found.
I'm thinking these are exclusively made for Specialized bikes, could this be true?


texts:
I am building a tandem and I can run the rear brake and shifter cables three ways.

I can run cable housing the whole way. Since it's really far, that's a lot of housing! And I don't think it would look good. But it would protect the cable.

I can put cable stops on the front and back, and run just the inner cables most of the way. The problem is the cables will rub the seat tube if I run them underneath the top tube. Unless I run the cables on the SIDE of the top tube, which would look weird.

Third, I could put little stubs of housing where the cables run past the front seat tube.

I would like to do the first one and just jun bare cable the whole way, and let the cables rub on the front seatpost where they pass it. Is it really a big deal if they touch it? The angle seems really shallow but I don't want it to make the brakes or shifting funny either.


texts: My wheel tilts to the left (to the disc side) any solution

texts: My front tire tilts to the left when I brake hard when speeding on my bicycle. I tried almost everything to get it fixed but no luck. Can you guys tell me the reason for that? If you know how to fix it please tell me.


texts: Can you remove the chain missing link too often?

texts:
I became  pretty obsessed with my MTB maintenance. After every trip, I completely remove the chain and wash it.
I am wondering if you can damage the missing (and weakest) link of the bike by doing that this often.
Thanks.


texts:
I have a new FELT Cyclocross frame and i am looking for a BB30 Crank to go with it.
I don't really need more more than one chainring, so i end up looking at a lo9t of MTB cranks on eBay.

What are the CONS of putting a MTB crank on my Cyclocross Bike?
Any known Problems?


texts: What is the longest off-road portion of the East Coast Greenway as of 2018?

texts:
The East Coast Greenway nominally stretches from Maine to Florida. But a lot of it has yet to be built. That means a lot of the route is actually still on-road cycling.

What is the current longest paved stretch that one can cover without riding on a road*?

*excepting perpendicular crossings of course


texts: What is the sliding bar on the bottom of my road shoe for?

texts:
I recently ordered some Sidi Scarpe Zephyr Cycling Road Shoes.

Absolutely fit perfectly, however I've noticed there is a sliding bar element on the bottom of the shoe and I cant work out what it is for.

I'm going to fit some look delta cleats on them, for use in the velodrome.

Best explanation is it has the standard look cleat holes, 3 main holes in a triangle shape. However there is one vertical slot (about 2cm) in the middle of the 3 holes, that has a sliding mechansism within it, i cant work out what it is for.


texts: How does a mountain racing team work together?

texts:
For a road race, I can imagine riding in a pelton has an advantage against air drag.

However, for MTB this does not make sense. XC races are slower than road races, and in a DH race having someone closely in front of you seems to be just another way to fall from the bike.

So what does it mean a mountain racing team? How do they function as a team? How do they behave during a race?

I guess a team of professional riders will have near identical skill level. On the other hand, a team of amateur enthusiasts can have vastly varying skill levels. How does this affect the answer?


texts: Are road bikes capable of being ridden on gravel?

texts: I am new to road bikes and was wondering if these bikes are capable of riding on light gravel or whether I will get flats? Does it depend on the tire material or are generally all road bike tires for road only?


texts: How can I know the number of teeths I need to go uphill?

texts:
I have a singlespeed with a flipflop hub to change to fixed gear. In my freewheel sprocket I have 16 teeth and in the ring chain 46 teeth.

For me this is almost always the perfect combination for touring where I live.

But sometimes I want to go up a mountain (15-17% ) and I,m not strong enough to keep pedaling. I,d like to have the fixie side as backup for those occasions with more teeth.

I don't have any local shop to try gear ratios so I have t guess and buy.

Is there any method to guess how many more teeth do I need considering what I already have? I can go around 15km/h in a 7%hill.


texts: How can you find parts for a discontinued bike - in this case, a 2004 Specialized mountain bike

texts:
I'm looking for the rear shock link for a 2004 Specialized FSR XC. Specialized doesn't have them; and so far I haven't been able to find that link anywhere!

Can anyone guide me in the right direction in finding parts for discontinued bicycles? Where should I be looking for parts?


texts: Small wheel bike to be converted to bigger wheels

texts:
I have a cycle with small wheels. I had been using it as a child. now I am an adult and I want to replace the small wheels with 26 inches wheels without spending a large amount of money.  I have thought of either putting wheel on the side to make a quadricycle. or welding a small piece of metal to the frame so as to be able to put a bigger wheel.

Is any other way?


texts: What exact size tires ORIGINALLY came on an older Giant mens Cypress bicycle?

texts: I have an 12-15 year old mens Giant Cypress bicycle. I am trying to find out what exact tire size originally came with the bike. I have been riding on smaller replacement tires that now need to be replaced. The smaller size that I have been riding on is 700 x 35C - 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8. These tires are smaller (thinner) than the original. I would like to know the original size and if there are any options besides these current tires which I never cared for anyway. Thanks, Frank


texts: What is the proper way to cut brake cable housing?

texts:
Unlike this question, mine is about cutting the housing.

All I've used with random success has been a pair of pliers with a good sharp inner cutting tool. Is there a better way, or a proper tool for the job? I am trying to avoid pulling the inner wire cable and fraying them. Thanks


texts: Mountain Bike Disc brake pads price vs performance

texts:
I know the differences between organic and sintered pads. That bit is (fairly) easy.

Where I come unstuck is finding out what is the difference between pads at different price points. Does anyone know what the difference between a set of $10 set of disc brake pads and a $40 set is likely to be.


texts: What is the best way to attach a Presta Valve?

texts: I attached a public bike station's Presta valve today - lost all the air in my tyre in the process and it got completely deflated.


texts: How do you check your road bike tires for wear?

texts: What is the best way to determine if your tires need to be replaced?


texts:
Two fold question. MTB has 7 speed cog and 3 chain-rings. Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur and Acera front derailleur with rapid fire shifters.

First, the right shifter will now only index four cogs. I've checked and adjusted the rear derailleur and even when cable is detached the shifter will only advance or descend four clicks. Is it repairable?

Second, can I replace the rapid fire shifters with grip shifters?


texts: I have purchased a fold-up all-terrain mountain bike serial # LDR15080363 that I would like to restore to the manufacturer’s specifications. Unfortunately, I have been unable to confirm who the manufacture is, any assistance is greatly appreciated.


texts:
I recently worked on my derailleur a bit to fix some issues in high gears, however, now I can no longer shift down to my lowest in the cassette when in either crankset.
I have tried the L screw at about any setting, including turning it so far it came completely out, but am still unable to downshift to the largest cog.
I also turned the barrel adjuster quite a bit, with no noticeable difference that I could detect. (Is it possible I need to do many, many turns to get it where it needs to be? It seems unlikely considering I didn't have to make massive changes before to get the other cogs set, but I admit I'm a novice.)
I'm thinking either the spring itself is bad or maybe I need to tweak the B-screw, but I'm afraid of undoing my work that got the higher gears working and going back to square one, or worse, with my shifting. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!


texts:
I have a Specialized Tricross which I bought new last year.

In that time (approximately 1K miles), I wore out my chain and gears. At least two of my gears are still slipping, even with a new chain.

I think I spend the majority of my time in one or two gears. Should I avoid this?  Are there other things I should be doing to avoid replacing my chain/gears every season?

I am a novice who mostly just commutes to work, so assume I know very little about form.


texts:
I have a bicycle that after a some amount of use (at least 3000 kilometres since I bought it from someone else) began having some problem on one of its pedals.
Basically at every single rotation, there is a snap in some place, like if there was a crack inside the pedal. That snap its almost impossible to feel when going low on pressure applied, but reasonably felt when running at normal speed, and feels like something is definitely not right and its going to break when either sprinting or climbing.
The closer to the left the foot is, the less I can notice it, (its the right pedal), what can be the cause?
Is it too dangerous to keep going with it this way? By dangerous I mean, the pedal simply getting lose or something like that and go off the bike.
The weird thing is that its a fully metal platform pedal, like this one:

What is there to break? Aren't these pedals just a shaft and the solid outside of the pedal?


texts: Why do modern mountain bike forks no longer use boots on fork stanchions? Older mountain bikes used to have them on the forks, and lefty and headshocks still do. Why have these fallen out of fashion and would putting aftermarket fork boots on your stanchions be productive or not?


texts: I have a road bike with a compact crank and 11-25 rear cassette(9 rings) at the moment. And my local climb is 35k long with an incline between 10- 30%. I really struggle with it. I have to stop like 5- 10 times to complete it. I am thinking of upgrading the cassette. I have an option between 11-30,32,34. I was wondering if it is really worth it to get the biggest cassette? Any opinions would be appreciated? Thanks.


texts: Bickepacking saddle bag touches rear wheel on mountain bike

texts:
I am planning a 2 weeks trip following a mountain bike itinerary consisting of 650 km including single trails and 25'000 m of positive (and negative) elevation.
I planned to go with my full suspension mountain enduro bike and I got the Ortlieb seatpack 16.5L and handlebar-pack 15L to pack all the camping gear. During the test ride last weekend, I was pretty pleased to be able to pack everything I needed in those bags.
The issue is that while riding on single trail going downhill, I was forced to keep the rear suspension to its tightest setting and even then, the seatpack was touching the wheel every now and then. Here is a picture of the setup:

The bike is a Canyon Strive with 29in wheels.
So the question is: how to avoid having the seatpack touching the rear wheel when going downhill ?
Putting the saddle higher is certainly not an optimal solution has it's already too high to be really comfortable going downhill. I was thinking about maybe switching the rear wheel with a 27.5in but I don't know how easy it would be and if it would be comfortable to ride for 2 weeks.


texts: DBS 10 Speed Conversion - Bottom bracket?

texts:
I have dismantled and thrown away the old parts of this DBS 10 Speed bike I'm converting to a fixed-gear. Yesterday I received a 48T Espresso crankset, but now I wonder which bottom bracket to get. The shell width is 68mm. Can anyone help me to get the right size for a bottom bracket?

The bike as I found it originally

The bike after I have stripped it down


texts: Please Assist in Identifying This Frame!

texts: I ran across this site and thought someone may be able to easily identify this vintage racer. My neighbor passed and left it to me and I was hoping to at least know what it was. He worked on bikes for many years several decades back and raced as well. It is extremely light. Campagnolo hardware, Cinelli seat and stem. I’m thinking Cinelli but can’t find any bike with holes in the frame connections as seen. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


texts: So recently i bought a carrera vengeance for £45 which is a bargain and the only problem was the gears(24 gear SRAM shifters) for the left side. When i got it i tried to shift but it just clicks and nothing happens, there is also a strong resistance. Someone please help.


texts: brake seems slack but pad is already close to rim

texts:
This is a v-brake. I have to press the brake lever all the way down for the bike to stop, but if I try to adjust the brake arm by pulling cable out a bit more towards outside, then the pad would be touching the rim already. It seems the cable has some slack inside the tube or between the brake lever and brake arm? How do I adjust this?
Thanks


texts: Can I use a 1" stem on a 1 & 1/8" steer tube?

texts:
I have a Nitto Technomic stem that I'd like to use on a '92 trek 930 with the idea of converting it from a mountain bike to a poor man's expedition touring bike with drops.

I found this shim that would seem to do the job.

Has anyone tried this? Is it a bad idea? I can't think of any reason why, but that's why I'm throwing it out here.


texts: Difference between cheap and expensive mountain bikes

texts:
I've been helping the friend to choose the bike the other day and we went to specific bike open air market. As I remembered the normal price for entry level bikes was ~400 EUR, but the Chinese mountain bikes there were priced something like ~100 EUR for the new one. For new one I mean it was right from the box with some branded parts from "Shimano" (probably fake :)). I've took a ride of one of the bikes and it seemed OK, without any sounds or discomfort. What is really the big difference? May be it's worth to buy 4-10 cheap bikes instead 1 expensive one for 1000 EUR? I mean, yes, the parts will be of cheap quality, but when they are worn - I probably can even install the original ones in the future or am I mistaken?

Example: http://trinx.ge/index.php?m=126 The majority is priced ~150$.


texts:
I am buying my first bike as an adult person and I am torn between getting a road bike or a hybrid bike. I will be using the bike primarily for transportation (I am a college student living in a city) but also sometimes just to ride for fun. I am a fan of the handlebars used on road bikes as I find the flat handlebars uncomfortable, but the tires of the hybrid bike make me happy.

Overall I'm not very educated when it comes to bikes so the only difference I can notice between the different bikes are the tires and the handlebars.


texts: Used-bike: How much to reserve for repairs/upgrades of total budget?

texts:
Let's say I have 500€ to buy a second hand bike. How much of that budget shall I keep for repairs and upgrades, and how much shall I spend on the bike itself?

Of course it depends on the condition of the bike, but I was wondering if there is some general wisdom about this.

When buying a second hand car, the common wisdom says that ~30% of one's budget should be kept for immediate repairs and upgrades. So when someone has 10000€ for a second hand car, wisdom says to buy a car for 7000€, and keep the rest 3000€ for the repairs and upgrades after the buy.

The resources I found had no mention about the expected costs of repairs and upgrades.

I researched these topics already:

What should I do to get an older bike into good condition?
What should I look for when buying a used bicycle?
How to tell if a bike is good before purchasing?
Purchasing a bike
Suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade
What to look out for in a second hand bike buy
Buying a higher quality use bike vs. a lower quality new bike

External resources:

Buying used bikes for beginners
Buying a Used Bike 2: Things to Look (Out) For
How to buy a used bike
Google search: how to buy a second hand bike


texts:
If my bike currently has 24 inch wheels, will 26 inch wheels fit?

I have a cruiser with 24 inch wheels an I want to put 26 inch wheels on it, I am not sure they will they fit.


texts:
Before starting to build a soundsystem for my bicycle I would like to ask where I can be redirected or provided info for a) a ready-made solution, b) a set of clear instructions on how to make one.

My requirements are:

It has to fit somewhere on the frame or the rack (maybe pannier style) - a trolley is not an option as I do not have space to store it.
The battery has to last a minimum of 5 to 6 hrs
It has to be loud enough for a city Critical Mass ride (many cyclists circulating together)

Thanks in advance!


texts: What kind of crankset to get for this bike?

texts:
I have a Schwinn Volare 1300, bought from here.

So the pedal on my crank arm came off today, when I tried to screw it back on I noticed that the hole where the screw goes has become smooth and does not have the screw notches on it anymore.

I've taken to my local repair shop and they told me I will need a replacement crankset. I have contacted warranty and am waiting for a response (as the bike is only a month old now) but in case that does not follow through, can someone suggest a compatible crank set?

Here is a closer look:

I don't know much about bikes so am not sure what kind to order.


texts: How do I descend faster on the straightaway?

texts: I've heard a lot of advice about descending mountain roads involving cornering and braking. I want to know how to go faster when descending on the long straightaway. Is it worth pedaling at speeds above 40 mph or should I just tuck in my legs? Is there anything I can do to my posture beyond dropping down to the lower handle bars and getting as low as possible? Is there any adjustment to the bike fit that could help? Where should I put my weight on the bike? Any other general speed increasing tips?


texts: Spray new bike with teflon to repel dirt and moisture?

texts:
I'm getting a new road bike.  Would a light spritz of teflon spray help in repelling dirt and moisture?  I wouldn't coat it completely, just focus on those dirt collecting areas, the undersides of the frame, the crevices on the brakes and derailleurs, etc. and of course not the brake surfaces.

It's an "internet bike" I'll assemble myself, so I don't have the guidance of an LBS for these things.


texts: How to choose bar-end shifters for a given groupset?

texts:
I'm doing a few triathlons this summer, and I'm getting an aerobar for my bike.  I'd like to be able to shift while in the aero position.

I've currently got ordinary road bike bars.  On these bars are mounted a pair of '05  Campagnolo Ergopower shift/brake levers.  The groupset in this specific case is a Campagnolo Centaur, the rear derailleur is a 10-speed, while the front has 2 speeds.

I'm riding with a pair of clamp-on Profile Design aero bars.  I'll be riding solo, so I don't need (or want - my weight is quite far forward!) brakes on my bar ends.  Instead, I'd like to be able to shift from this position.   Currently, my Ergopower shifters are still hanging in front of my drops.  I no longer ride in the drops very often; I'm either on the aerobars or on the hoods when going up a hill or in a group ride.

How do I select shifters for the aerobars?  The photographs I've seen look like the old friction shifters that go on a downtube.  As suggested here, friction shifters would be difficult with a 10-speed for the rear.  Also, I rather like my indexed system: I can adjust at home, and then click and forget while on the road.  Must I use:

Shifters of the same brand as the rest of the groupset? (Shimano/Campagnolo/SRAM)
Shifters of the same product line as the rest of the groupset? (Dura Ace/Ultegra, Record/Centaur)
Shifters of the same model year or generation as the rest of the groupset?
Shifters with the same number of indices? (10 speed, 9 speed, 8 speed)
Indexed or friction-type shifters?

I'm having a hard time finding the shifters for my system at a reasonable price in an exact match. I've found other Campy bar-end shifters, but they're all of the higher-end Record series than my Centaur system and they're usually a newer model.


texts: Are freewheels really that prone and susceptible to bent axles?

texts:
I'm 90kg (198pounds) and I have a 27.5 hard tail mtb 9 speed freewheel and it is quick release. I only use my mtb as a commuter on roads and never on trail. I run my tires at 35-40psi.
Ever since i bought the bike, the stock axle lasted about 1000-1500 kilometers before my rear wheel started rubbing against my frame. I got it checked out and replaced at my local bike shop cus it was indeed a bent axle. After they had replaced it and replaced my bearings, it only lasted 200km befofe it got bent again. I went back had them replace it with a new one again and same thing happened, only lasted 200km. I tried getting it replaced at another bike shop near me and this time it ony lasted 100km before it got bent.
Is this because of my weight?
Or because my tires are too hard? Or are freewheels just prone to bent axles especially when you have more gears?
I have read somewhere that the greater the speed (7-9speed) the more it is prone to having a bent axle if it is using a freewheel.
I do plan on upgrading to a cassette type hub. I just fear that i may still bend my rear axle even after upgrading my hubs. That's why I want to know if there are other factors causing my axle to bend and will it it still occur if I upgrade to a cassette type hub due to my weight or tire pressure (if those are factors causing or contributing to a bent axle)
Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance of your answers.


texts: Carbon bikes make me nervous. Can you ease the tension?

texts:
Is it only me, or do Carbon bikes make others nervous!

I realize that carbon fibre is strong, but for some reason, having a bike that isn't made out of metal seems like asking for trouble.

My main reason for not liking it is the failure mode. Carbon won't bend like metal, but rather crack and snap in half. This makes me nervous.

Think of it this way. Over time a frame develops weaknesses. In a metal frame, these weaknesses would cause things to start bending. The bending would be noticeable and I would replace the part before it caused and accident.
However carbon doesn't bend, and it will eventually just break.  This would most likely cause an accident.  I don't want my front fork to just snap as I'm riding down the road.

Is my concern warranted, or am I just unfamiliar with the technology?  How often should carbon parts be replaced?  What signs of wear should I look for?


texts: Can cycling improve my stamina in soccer?

texts:
I cycle about 2 km uphill every day, and it takes me about 16 minutes on my MTB.
I hope this will also improve my stamina in soccer as I am unable to sprint/run fast.
Please suggest me some good diet.  I am allergic to eggs.
I am 20 years  male  and I weigh 74kg ,height 5.6 ft. Is my body weight OK or bad?


texts: What are cheap options for an extra set of brake levers for mechanical disk brakes?

texts:
A quick question. I want to have an extra pair of brake levers for my mechanical disk brakes set at a different position on my handlebar(s), and I want the whole upgrade to cost as little as possible. Ideally not more than 50$, at max 100$ (so no ultra-hightech sport competition-grade stuff). What are my options? So far I've discovered only the thing called "Cross/Inline brake levers" They seem like the thing, but it seems to me they are a bit limiting regarding where you can place them. Are there any other relatively cheap options?

Edit:
Sorry for confusion, I had to mention I don't have a typical road bike's or cyclocross bike's setup. I'm riding a hybrid bike, which has a butterfly bar as a main bar, and a couple of high curved horns attached at its left and right edge. Horns allow me to sit almost perfectly straight, and the main (butterfly) bar allows to lean forward for a bit more aggressive posture when riding over rough terrain. So I would like to be able to engage my brakes from both those main hands' positions.


texts: Chain "jumping" every few crank rotations

texts:
After a few pedal-strokes the rear derailleur completely gives out and the pedals drop to catch up.
After much googling it says the most common thing is rear derailleur adjustment is needed, so I have done that which was pretty straight forward but the problem persists.
Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/XnrwqW4WatoFc7ee8
Excuse how shaky it is, the bike is hanging on a washing line...
I followed this guide when adjusting:


texts: Should an amateur attempt truing a wheel

texts:
I was in a bicycle crash recently, and noticed afterwards that the wheel was out of true (it hits the brakes once every revolution). The damage doesn't seem extreme to me though: it's not visible just by looking at the tire. I have little experience with bike maintanance or repair, and have read that truing is hard. However, I don't think I can afford professional maintanance/repair right now.

So, should I attempt truing the tire myself (with the help of online resources), or am I likely to just destroy the whole thing?


texts: Advice on tyres for a 109 mile charity cycle

texts:
A friend and i have decided we want to cycle between our favourite football team's stadium for charity. We are starting at Wolverhampton and finishing at Bristol with a total distance of 109 miles.

We currently have cheap Btwin mountain bikes from Decathlon and plan to swap for a slightly thinner tyre. Our theory is that it will make pedaling slightly easier for us as we assume the majority of the trip will be road riding.

The current tyres we have on our bikes are 26 x 2.0.

I have been looking at Continental Ride Tours at 26x1.75 would these fit and do you think they would be good? Not very clued up on bikes to be honest.

Thanks

Neil


texts:
I'm very very new to bicycles and obtained a little project for me to work on, hence the amount of rust on the parts currently but I'm not sure if I have a direct or hanger mount derailleur? I'm 100% I need Shimano I just can't figure out which Mount haha.

I have attached a picture to the post (don't mind the disgraceful amount of rust and whatnot). Any help is appreciated!


texts: Good idea to commute with a road bike and keep it outside?

texts:
So I finally want to upgrade from my 1980 Schwinn World Sport 10-speed with suicide shifters to something more modern.

I will be working in Texas this summer and want to commute to work, but I highly doubt that the office has a place indoors to keep my bike.

Is it bad to spend $800 to $1000 on a new road bike if it will be left outside 9-6 everyday? I will have a backpack so a tarp is possible.


texts: I need help adjusting Marzocchi dj3 2011

texts:
I want to increase my fork length but I don’t want to change the sag or travel or rebound.

The forks are on a Rocky Mountain frame and I want the bottom of my hard tail to be parallel with the ground and not pointing down in front.


texts: Can you run a standard tyre on a tubeless rim?

texts:
I have some new tubeless MTB rims and I'd like to avoid buying new tyres for them.  The tyres are reasonably sturdy (Continental Race King Protection - 4 plies / total 240tpi) and I have sealant. As I understand it the sidewalls aren't as tough so you can't run on quite as low pressures as UST tyres but that's OK with me.

Any other potential problems?


texts:
This brake was installed on a fixed-gear that did not come with any brakes.  The nut on one side rubs against the fork, and over time it rotates and presses the pad against the wheel.

Here is where it is rubbing:

The workaround is to unscrew the break and re-center it, but it wiggles its way back and I'd rather a more permanent solution.

The first thing that occurs to me is to put a washer on the bolt between the brake and the fork, but the bolt is just barely long enough to screw into the nut.  Could I get a washer and a longer nut to handle this?  Would that fix the problem?

The other idea I had was to file down the nut in the photo so it doesn't contact the fork, but that just feels like a bad idea.

[Edit]
As requested, here's a shot that shows the whole brake:


texts: How do I know when to change my crank bearings?

texts: My crank makes a bang when I pedal hard or up hill and don't know what makes the noise


texts: What is this fender part called and where do I get one?

texts:
My bike came with this plastic bracket thing that holds the fender to the fork arch. It's very convenient and now I want to buy another one. Unfortunately, I cannot find this part anywhere online, and I don't even know what it's called. I tried searching for obvious things like "fender fork clip" but no results.

Does this thing have an official name? Do you know where I can get one?


texts: Twist shifter cannot shift down – what might be the cause?

texts: My son's bike is stuck on 7. When we try to shift down to 1, there are no clicks. It just shoots right back to 7. This is a dial/twist/grip shifter, not a trigger shifter. I do not think it has anything to do with the derailleur, but want to confirm.


texts:
My front wheel doesn’t spin freely. I had the hub tightened and now it has a lot of resistance. I use bolts, not a quick release.
There isn’t rust on the fork, the brakes are not rubbing.


texts: Explanation on the lineup of Shimano Derailleurs

texts:
I am pretty sure that almost everyone in this community knows the answer to this question but not me. I found this picture on the internet.

I am just a beginner and I still don't understand the difference between Altus and Acera, TX and TZ, where is Tiagra, Claris, Dura-Ace, and other major types of derailleur in this list. I somehow find the SRAM lineup to be clean and easy to understand but Shimano is a total mess for me. Can someone please explain the complete hierarchy of Shimano derailleurs? Am I the only one who messes this up? Thank you!


texts: Why is my front crank clicking/creaking?

texts:
I've purchased a new bike. Carrera Hellcat is the model.

I'm getting a click noise from the front crank but only when the middle sprocket has the chain on it, there are 3 at the front. There are around 10 small click sounds per every rotation. I'm just wondering if anyone knows what it could be.

I've tightened the chain ring bolts and the bottom bracket a bit but the problem is still there.

Does any one have any ideas?

Seems odd that there's no click on the other front gears.

Cheers!


texts: What are the consequences of a chain that is the wrong length?

texts: I changed the chain on my bicycle before doing any proper reading on it, and I did not check whether the chain was the correct length. It seems to be working ok... but what could potentially go wrong?


texts:
I started riding road bikes seriously a couple of years ago at which point I acquired Exustar pedals and shoes. The pedals have kept up well, but my shoes are getting a bit tired and I'm wanting to get new ones. Seeing as I've ever only had one pair of shoes/pedals I don't really know how pedals and cleats compatibility works? Is there a standard shape for cleats? If I buy, Shimano shoes for example, will I be able to use them with my pedals? Or do I take the cleats off of my old shoes and put them on my new ones? How does it all work?!

I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me!


texts: DT swiss 370 hub ends in a thread, what is is for?

texts:
I bought a second hand wheel which has a DT Swiss 370 hub. I miss-thought the hub is for a 135x9 mm axle, but it is not. After finding out that it was not a 9 mm I took a deeper look to the hub and found something that surprised me, the hub ends in a male thread.

I was not able to find the user manual... So my questions are:

Does this hub need a 135x10 axle?
What is that male thread for (see images)?, is it supposed to rest on the frame directly?


texts: Is it unhealthy to fail this bike fit and why?

texts:
Recently, on a beginner MTB lecture, I learned that the pedal axle should in no part of the stroke be horizontally in front of the knee. Not observing this is unhealthy for the knees.

Also, here (btw great video) they explain a similar thing. For a "correct fit", the knee should line up with the pedal axle.

Currently I am riding my little sister's mtb. The seat is high enough, but even being slided maximum to the front, I fail the above test miserably (the seat tube is quite angled). A couple of weeks of short rides, and my knees already hurt constantly (maybe placebo effect?).

Why would having the seat too far back be unhealthy for the knees?


texts: How do I train for climbing in a relatively flat area?

texts:
How do you best train for climbs in a flat area?  I am aiming to tackle some UK climbs in N. Yorks and the Lakes come autumn but I only have access to the flat local countryside at the moment.  I don’t have any specialist equipment to quantify power output (e.g. power meter) or proxy measures of exercise intensity (e.g. pulse meter).   The image below describes the most hilly circuit I can access nearby.

I have read around the topic from the following sources:

http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/cycling-fitness-tips-climbing-drills.html
http://road.cc/content/forum/27585-training-hills-when-you-live-flat
http://www.kingstonwheelers.co.uk/coaching4.shtml
http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/no-climb-climbing-bike-workout [this offers a suggested workout]

And the key pieces of information seem to be as follows:

Lose weight to improve power to weight ratio.
Optimize the bike for climbing by selecting appropriate gears etc.
Use a turbo trainer (not possible for me)
Train abroad (not possible for me)
Practice sprints into a headwind in a big gear – aiming for development of quads and core
TT training – you spend a similar amount of time at a similar power output as used in longer in alpine climbs.
Train on any climb available with a bike loaded shopping.
Practice good pedal technique – on a hill every pedal stroke will count due to the heavier load.
Interval training at lactate threshold (difficult to characterise without specialist equipment)

With all this said I am still unsure how to make the best of the short climbs I have locally.  Is it best to practice in low or high gears?  Is it worth trying to tack on a short sprint at the summit of these climsb?


texts: Today I have replaced my chain with a kmc z8s. The rear cassette is Shimano acera 8 speed , and is not worn yet , so everything is OK with the cassette. But the problem is that the chain doesn't fit the cassette properly ,when I apply more power on the pedals the  chain starts sliding over the cassette (The lenght of the chain is OK too). What is the solution of this problem ?


texts:
first time so bear with me please.
I recently had to replace my rear wheel. Went to LBS and the only options available are 130mm spaced. I have a nice Specialized 1980s frame that measures 126mm. It's a steel frame so squeezing in the new wheel is no problem. However, I'm curious how this will affect the feel of the bike. By essentially widening the "stance" of the bike, will I lose some responsiveness and agility or will it feel the same? Followed up by how will this affect the tension of the shifter cables that travel along the chainstay? Thanks for your help!

PS. If anyone knows where to find a 6 speed 126mm QR rear hub that I can build a wheel around (or a complete wheel) let me know. I've not had much success searching for one. Thanks again!


texts: My question is in regard to putting my beach cruiser on a bike trainer. I refuse to take no for an answer ;). 1st question: can I put a through axle in my coaster hub. If not, here is the 2nd question: I have 26 X 2.125 tires on my bike can I just change the back wheel to a road wheel with a through axle if I'm not concerned about the brakes?


texts: I've recently started biking serious amounts (to me, anyways, 12 miles or so ) and I've noticed a pain in my right hand, near the center of where the wrist connects to the palm. It hurts when pressure is applied, and sometimes otherwise. Could this be from biking? My first thought is carpal tunnel, because I also work on computers for a living, but I'd really like to avoid having carpal tunnel.


texts:
On my bike, on the left shifter, It is labeled low to high and has lots of dots between them.

I don't know how to shift to one individual gear on the front derailleur. It seems that If I shift it once it kind of moves and you have to shift several times to move to another ring.

Can I shift more than one gear at a time, so I can move to another ring faster?


texts: Bottle dynamo: the steel wheel quickly wearing down?

texts:
4 weeks ago I replaced the bottle dynamo on my bike (see this question).
Now, after 4 weeks of commuting for a total of something less than 600 km, the dynamo runner looks like this

It won't take longer to have the rest of the runner completely flattened, therefore I am considering moving to a better dynamo.
I can choose between:

low-end dynamo with steel runner (cost around 10 Euros)
high-end dynamo with plastic runner (cost around 40 Euros)

Aside from cost consideration, is it advisable to use a steel runner? Is there any risk that the steel runner can tear the side of my tyre?
P.S. Hub dynamo is out of question.


texts:
90 % I bike off road, but easy and lazy, but 2 3 times a year I go seriously up hills I mean Ventoux and that kind of stuff. I would like then to use tires that are somewhat more effective. Since I want the Bad Boy per se 2 questions,

will I have problems going down hill at speed
what size of tire is the most effective

thanks Henk


texts: Is there a road shoe cleat adapter (from road to mountain) that could be used in a cyclo cross race?

texts: So Im aware that you can buy (3 hole) spd pedal to (2 hole) mtb pedals so you can own one pair of shoes like this one offered by crank brothers. Has anyone ever seen a cleat adapter that could aid traction when running in a cyclo cross race (i.e. a pair of studs right at the front of the pedal)?


texts: How to measure the size of a suitable tire for my bike?

texts: If I have the diameter of the rim of my bike and also have the width o this rim, how can I determine which tire is good for me?


texts:
I'm wondering if riding hard strengthens the knee or causes degradation?

I exercise regularly and am in solid physical condition.  When strength training off of the bike, I do a lot of leg work including heavy squats, deadlifts, lunges, etc.  I've been doing this seriously for 5 years or so alongside riding, mostly road, and it's done nothing but help when I get in the saddle.

So, when I get on the bike and ride hard, which is usually 4-5 days a week in season, I have leg soreness (obviously).  However, I get sore in the knee - not pain per se - just soreness.  The soreness is mostly felt in the structures that hold the knee together, i.e. ACL, MCL, LCL.

When I strength train I don't get sore like this - the soreness is all in the muscles, i.e. quads, glutes, hamstrings, as opposed to the ligaments.  In fact, I've never done anything besides cycling which induces this type of soreness.  That said, is this good in the long run?  Am I strengthening my knees or slowly working toward future knee problems?


texts:
So next week a friend and I are going to be a support vehicle for a 500 km bike race. We wanted to setup something so we could live stream the whole event and wanted to ask if anyone has any experience with the best way of doing this. We will have around 4 or 5 stops evenly spread out on the track. One of our biggest challenges will probably be the battery.

The gear we have or is planning on getting

2 x GoPro 3 with extra battery
iPhone 5 with a 50 GB data card. (Is that enough?)
3 x 6000 mAH power packs to charge phone and GoPro

Our plan is to attach the phone and GoPro to one of the bikes and swap the power backs on each stop. Will this work? What other things should we consider?

We are planning on using https://livestream.com/
We will have a laptop in the car as well.

Will update this post with what we find out.


texts: I need help on how to make my bike faster

texts:
Hi Just wanted to ask how to make my bike faster.

Do I change the front chainring to a larger one, if so do I have to get a whole new drive train or can I just get another shimano large ring. Can I get a smaller cog at the back, will that make my bike faster?

Please take a look at my bike. here are the specs

Shifters: R660 Shimano trigger, Front derailleur: R453 Shimano, Rear derailleur: Shimano Sora, Cassette: FAC MICHE 9s 12X26 Bottom bracket: FC453 Shimano 50/39/30, Chain: KMC Z9000

here's the site with more information
http://www.btwin.com/en/fitness-road-bikes/3856-b-twin-forme-5.html

I just want to know if I can change anything to make it faster but I don't know what to change. thanks

Thanks

David


texts: Does it matter what way the tires go if no directional arrow?

texts:
As the title suggests, I have just put on two new tires but now I'm not sure if I put them on in the right direction.

No directional arrows so I presume anyway is fine, however me being me it made sense to have the tread pattern going in the forward direction.

So do these look right or should I flip them around?


texts:
I want to attach a pump holder to my aluminium frame. Can I drill holes in it ? I would then use blind rivets with some glue for waterproofing to attach the holder.
Is there a place on the frame where this would be better?
I know this question, but it is for carbon frames.


texts: Is it safe to use a spacer that reaches above the steerer tube?

texts: I have a spacer that reaches from the top of the stem and over the top of the steerer tube. I am able to lock it down with the top cap, but I was wondering if it is safe to ride like this, or if I should get a smaller spacer so that the spacer and top cap is flush with the top of the steerer tube. The picture below illustrates the situation (hopefully).


texts: What bearings go in DT Swiss R23 Spine Disc (FW,RW,Freehub)?

texts:
I am not longer able to pedal or back-pedal freely. Coasting still works, so I suspect my freehub bearing is the problem. But man... I've been searching for hours now and can't seem to find what bearings need to go in my wheels.

Does anyone of you have a clue?


texts: How can I combine Garmin recorded track data with FitBit heart rate data?

texts:
I have a Garmin Oregon 600 and FitBit Charge HR. Is there a way I can combine the GPS track from the Garmin with the heart rate data from the FitBit so that I can use it in a visualization tool like MyGPSFiles?

Also, if there is a way to do this by manually editing the files please let me know. I could turn this into a project and write a program to merge the data but I don't know what filetype would support this combination of data.

I would prefer not having to carry my cellphone, but would replacing the Garmin with a smartphone make it easier?


texts: Is reverse pedaling good for smooth gear change?

texts: I am newbie for cycling. When I change my gears, some lock sounds are coming from the chain. But if I do reverse pedaling while switching gears. No sound form chain, but gear switched to the right position? Is this good or am doing wrong?


texts: Changing the wheels on a hybrid giant escape

texts:
I have a spare set of Giant SR2 wheels lying around and I was thinking about buying a Giant Escape 3 and changing the wheels over.

Would there be any issue with doing this?

Cheers!


texts: Is passing traffic on the cars' passenger side ("Undertaking") with a bicycle frowned upon in the UK?

texts: Take the example where a bicycle lane is on the road, rather than the pavement. There is a queue of cars waiting at the lights, and the bike lane is clear right up to the lights. If you were to cycle right up to the lights, you would be passing all the queuing cars on the way, on the passenger side ("Undertaking"). Is this an example of "dangerous driving", or otherwise frowned upon (UK)? What if the cars were moving? What if there wasn't a bike lane, but you were staying to the side of the road so that other cars could overtake you if they wanted?


texts: What can be done to seat post too long/saddle too high?

texts: Recently a mountain bike --someone's hand-me-down--, came in my way. Size wise it might be slightly big for my ideal but within the range of manageable, I accessed. After trying a few times, however, it became clear that its seat post becoming too long and saddle too high with the way it was. I broke the parts apart and the only way I could make do with this seemed  not to use this post or any post at all, crazy it may sound, but it should work out only if the saddle cushion part immediately placed on the seating area. (Somehow the depth that the post can slide down is limited to half of the post length due to its structure: a "coil type' object obstructing and blocking the post. I'm a girl of 5 foot 2. Although the bike is a mountain type, I am not planning to use this for adventurous rides in mountains or slopes but for small scaled travel nearby with no bumps and/or environments as parks, etc. I am an experienced cyclist but also a city dweller, who would be cautious due to frequent casualties observed in the area where I am currently located: urban.


texts: What is the best chain and gear lubricant used by pro cyclists either for maintenance or for racing and how often is it recommended to apply? I have limited knowledge and so I have always simply used a product named Castrol EP 90.


texts:
I've been an idiot. I took them off the bike this morning, and there's nothing left - the springs have been bent back and stripped off, and that strange 'rubbing' noise I've heard from the back wheel? Yes, it was...

I've bought some new pads, but I don't want to mess things up any further.

How do I properly install pads into a Shimano BR-M365 disk brake caliper?

Any hints, clues, do and definitely don't?


texts: Do disc brake rims ever need to be replaced?

texts: Obviously the brakes do not place any wear on the rims. But are there other factors that could lead to the rims needing to be replaced? I'm excluding damage from accidents.


texts: Should V brakes be able to lock the front wheel?

texts:
I recently bought a folding electric bike for commuting by train, and braking has been a constant pain.

The shop has adjusted them most weeks, I've never had a bike need this much adjusting, but they won't even entertain the idea that they could be faulty.

Today, they've changed the brake pads, after less than 200 miles use, and when I've come test the bike, the front wheel doesn't come close to locking (nor does the rear of the bike raise off the ground), and the bike will casually come to a stop.

The mechanic has just argued that v brakes function like this and should not lock the front wheel, and he couldn't make them any more effective than they are, I explained that every bike I've ever owned with v brakes was able to lock the front wheel, but it just felt we weren't going to see eye to eye.

So, should v brakes be able to lock the front wheel?

Update
To clarify, the bike has at times been able to stop much more sharply than it currently is, on delivery, the brakes were okay, and after each previous 'adjustment', so the weight is not the problem. It can 'endo', the claim by the mechanic is that it shouldn't be able to, and that configuring the brakes like this is fine.

A few details, which were requested in the comments:
It has 20" wheels and weighs 18kg,

Here's a picture of it:


texts: What are the best brakes other than disc brakes

texts: I'm a big fan of hydraulic disc brakes because of the braking power and relatively infrequent maintenance. What is the best kind of brake other than disc for braking power and modulation? And is it the case that rim brakes tend to need adjustment more than hydraulic disc? For context, I've been warned off cable disc as a poor substitute for the hydraulic type, but I don't have first hand experience here. To improve the question in response to comments, is it possible to say what kind of mechanical brake gives the best mechanical advantage, ie best lever-to-pad travel ratio? Many thanks.


texts: Rear derailleur at limit, chain still rubbing

texts:
I gave my bike a thorough service recently by pulling it apart and cleaning/re-greasing everything. Now everything is back together and I just can't get the rear derailleur to work properly.
The H limit screw is already fully backed out and the derailleur is at its mechanical limit, but the guide pulley just doesn't move out far enough to eliminate the chain rubbing against the 2nd smallest cog.
During service the rear axle and cassette stack was removed, however I took care to measure the position of the cone nuts beforehand and they should be in the right position. The stack is also bolted together (except for the last 2 small cogs), so couldn't be a missing spacer.
What could be the cause of this?
PS: The bike was never in a crash, so I guess the hanger is not bent. In any case I have no derailleur alignment tool at hand if it were.
The model is a Simano Deore XT (2013)


texts: Is it normal Allen keys are loose fitting?

texts:
I notice on my chinese made Norco that the keys are very loose fitting.
I know there are different sets of allens but I seem to remember them either fitting snugly or not at all. The reason this concerns me is
it feels like I could strip the hole especially on the brakes which
have to be tightened down well.


texts: What's the difference between power meter and bike computer?

texts:
I am currently using a IpBike computer app (on Android) with DuoTrap Speed and Cadence sensors on my bike. I was reading about power meters and how they would help in training by assessing the power output. However, I have some questions as mentioned below.

Can somebody explain the differences between power meter and bike computer? Are there any overlapping features between the two? or are they totally different from each other?

Also - having a power meter but not a bike computer, will it serve any purpose?

Thanks.


texts: cable housing with braided metal hard to cut?

texts:
Jagwire makes some cable housings that look like braided metal (called "sterling silver", "titanium", "carbon silver", and "gold"). I have a vague recollection of a review that said these metallic housings are more difficult to cut than the solid colored ones. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

(I have a decent bicycle cable/housing cutter that worked fine on the solid colored Jagwire housings.)


texts: How to fix this unusual looking valve stem to put air in the tire?

texts:
I'm wondering how do I fix this valve stem? I want to put air in the tire. But, i don't see the usual screw-on stem part. The other bicycle tire has such type of stem, so I am thinking this one is broken. How do I repair our replace it? Thanks for help,

update: thanks for the helpful info. i plan to get some more time on this during this week. this evening, i found a part with my pump kit that i was able to screw on. it didn't work with one of my pumps, but i have another pump i plan to try on it.

update: it was exciting to turn the top part from what i've learned from this thread and then be able to pump up this tire for my wife to have a working bike again. now, i know the usage of the other side of this pump attachment that i had never used before too. thanks for the help!


texts: Am I required as a biker to use the bike lane on the right side of the road?

texts:
The following is a google maps image of a busy intersection I need to take during my commute:

Traffic mostly comes from 2 sides: the South and the West. At the time I pass this intersection, there is a lot of traffic from both sides. There are bicycle lanes on both sides. Most traffic from the south heads west (about 4 in 5 cars) and most traffic from the west heads east (again 4 in 5).

When I come from the West and need to go via Diepe Roet (that small curvy street to the South), there is a cycling lane up to the intersection. However, I find it hard to judge the traffic situation, because there are usually 4 or 5 cars waiting from either side, and they don't usually use their indicators properly. There's also not enough illumination to completely cover the intersection.

The solution I've found is to head north along Heistraat. If it's not yet dark, I try to cross at the Frans de Cortlaan, which doesn't have nearly as much traffic. However, there's not much light there either, so if it's dark (in the winter), I drive another 50 meters or so further North. There is a school there with clear illumination on both sides, no perpendicular streets, a long speedbump and a zebra crossing. Both crossings are in my opinion far safer to cross, because it's much easier to see oncoming traffic in both ways. After having had an accident in the dark when crossing at the marked intersection, I rarely cross at that street, except during the holidays when there's no school traffic.

However, I need to drive on the left hand side bicycle lane for this, and I'm not quite sure how dangerous or legal this is. I'm not the only cycler who does this on that intersection, and I feel like I got enough justification to do it. However, if I get into an accident, I could get into trouble for not following the normal flow of traffic.

Is driving against the flow of traffic an appropriate maneuver to counteract the danger on that intersection?


texts:
How can I undo a chain that is closed with a master link?

Inspired by comment from https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/39284/19705


texts:
I'm not very familiar with all the different component groups available and wondered if there's a chart that ranks their quality (or price).

So I'd know that Shimano 105 is the same level as SRAM Apex (just and example, I don't know).  So I can get it in my head a general idea of where these component sets stack up against each other so when I look at bikes I'll know (generally) the quality of the components.

Surely there's a list somewhere out there, but I can't find it.


texts: What features should I look for in a mudguard?

texts:
I am wanting a mudguard that is quite long for the rear. However I don’t want the mud to flick onto my back.

I have already tried the ‘Ass Saver Fendor Bendor’ but it slips on my frame. Would you be able to recommend me one that would work?


texts: What kind of tail lights can I attach to the rear of my rack?

texts:
Every taillight I've owned has mounted to the seat post, but when I load my rear rack the seatpost light is no longer visible. Instead, I'd like to mount a light to the rear of my rack, which has a single centered screw hole for mounting a light. What kinds of lights can I mount with this kind of setup? Are there lights specifically designed to be mounted on the back of a rack with a single screw?

The best picture I can find is below:


texts: my first frame jig - a customized one - which addons and features to add?

texts:
i am currently workin on the Bicycle-Frame-Building-Jig that is designed by tanner W at Instructables https://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Frame-Building-Jig/
which bottom bracket assemblies should i work out:
The question is - which bottom bracket-assembly-types would you suggest!?which axles and dummy shells should i drill see https://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Frame-Building-Jig/
well at the moment i am musing bout the extras and features

what should i add
which features should i add
eg some dummy axles for the bottom bracket assembly - what do you suggest!?

i think as long as we can get a standard English bb in both 68 and 73,
we should be fine.
afaik: It's hard to deal with the press fit sizes because AFAIK nobody is selling facing/reaming tools for them. As far as i know: Paragon has a ton of bb shells available, so we could match what they sell.
but I think the two most standard sizes will probably do for now.
the tanner w fixture is adjustable for width, so we only need one set of blocks see here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Frame-Building-Jig/
and also see the bottom bracket shells: https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/frame-building-parts/bottom-bracket-shells/steel.html
well at the moment i am musing bout the extras - what should i add ?


texts: What are good vegan diet resources for bicyclists?

texts:
I am a vegetarian, and I bike 100-150 miles a week. I see that many cyclists are vegans, and I would love to try a vegan diet compatible with the high energy input that cycling requires.

Can you suggest books, websites and other resources which provide information on healthy and efficient vegan diets for cyclists?


texts: Is it possible to add a TT shifter to Di2 junction box?

texts: Is it technically possible to add another shifter to an already functioning Di2 setup, allowing for an extra shifter at the end of an aero extension bar, hooked up to the same junction box as the original shifters, to allow the rider to shift in three different riding positions (normal, drop, aero)?


texts: These two bolts indicated by green arrows...what is the correct torque wrench setting please?


texts: Knee feeling after long ride with road bike

texts:
During the last 2 months, I rode on my road bike for a few times (about 7 times) a way that is about 60 km (37.282 mi) long. Two days before, when I did this ride, after the midst of it, I started to fill very comfortable regarding the effort that I needed to put on pedaling, even though I started to pedal on the harder gear speed. Almost the hardest on my bike. The ride was beautiful and amazing, I did it in a very good time. Now comes the problem - I don't really think it's a problem, but I want to meet any possible bad thing that can happen if I can do this.
After I rode, my feet feel a kind of weary, but especially my knees. It's not pain. I'm just weary on my knees. When I sit on chair or bad (before to sleep), I feel very comfortable with my knees, it's a sensation of total relaxing on my knees. I have to underline that I'm not very trained, and this is the majority of time in the last two months that I spent on my bike. Before, I rode only on my little town with my city bike.

I'm interested if anyone experienced this before, and if this is due to the lack of train mostly or if it's due to bad saddle fit. Any other possible issues?

N.B. I know I must check for saddle position. Actually I'm searching for the best fit that I can have, but because in my town I don't have a specialist in this area, I have to document myself for getting the best fit.


texts: What options do I have if my rear derailleur breaks when I'm out on a trail?

texts:
I ran into an unfortunate situation earlier this week. I was out on a mountain bike trail, alone — just me and my hardtail. I'm pedaling, when I suddenly hear a CRUNCH and my bike stops. The hanger has broken, and the derailleur is totally bent.

I couldn't pedal, because the derailleur would travel with the chain and get stuck in the gears, and I had no way of reattaching it.

Luckily, I happened to be pretty close to the town when this happened, so I ended up walking it for ~15 minutes and dropping it off at my local bike shop.

However, I'm wondering what I can do if this happens again and I'm at a less convenient location - say deep in the woods. I don't generally carry any tools besides for a Swiss Army knife and an Allen wrench set.

Is there anything I can do to patch it up enough to at least get back home if I happen to break my derailleur?


texts: Shimano 105 front derailleur has some “extra shift” after shifting to small cog

texts:
I have a new bike (about a month old). It has Shimano 105 2x11 group set.  The shifting works fine but I have noticed something odd on the front derailleur shifting.

I am in the big cog at the front. I shift to the small cog by pushing the lever as far inwards as it will go. It shifts nicely to the small cog.

However, I can then push the lever inwards some more and the front derailleur will “shift” a bit further. This doesn’t affect the gears at all as far as I can tell.

I have put the bike on a stand and done this whilst watching the front mech closely and sure enough, I shift to the small cog (really making sure to push the lever all the way across) and I can see the mech move. But then, I push the lever again and it shifts a bit more and the moves a
My partner has almost the same bike with same group set and her’s does the same thing.

Hopefully I explained that in a way that makes sense.

Is it normal?


texts: Continuing to use damaged cones in rear hub?

texts:
I've read in many different places that if you take a hub apart and see damage on the cups, cones, or bearings (may god have mercy on you if your cups are damaged) That they must be replaced.

I recently bought a used bike that had a lot of miles on it. There was a tiny bit of damage on the cones in the rear hub, concentrated within about 1/8 of the race.

That seems to make sense: The wheel spun very freely, so it was well-tuned, and the top of the cones took very little wear. The damage developed where the rider's weight was: on the bottom 1/8 of the cone.

So I'm wondering if I can get away with simply rotating the axle so that the cones have the damaged side up, and the good side down. That way the damaged side will be supporting an insignificant amount of weight (and not messing the balls up), and my ball bearings will have the pressure on them while they're rolling over the good part of the cone.

Does that sound like a hack that will work?


texts: Can I use a Shimano XT 11-gear derailleur with a 10 ring cassette on a mountainbike?

texts:
I put a 40-11T 10-gear cassette on my mountainbike, but did not check whether it was compatible with my current xt shadow+ derailleur. Now the derailleur rubs against the cassette in higher gears. In the future I would like to put on an 11-gear cassette.
So that I don't have to buy a new derailleur now and then again in a year or so I would like to install a derailleur that will work with both.
Is this possible?
Thanks


texts:
On a ride yesterday I changed from my large to small cog on the front gear set and my chain instantaneously snapped. The snap occurred right on the point where the mech would have applied pressure.
The previous day I had a gear service from a mechanic who now swears that this is pure coincidence but I would prefer opinions from people who aren't trying to save money and reputation.
I was already considering returning my bike for a re-service as the outside of the front derailler was still rubbing the chain when in the smallest back cogs.
Could it be a case of poor adjustment work that placed too much strain on my chain during the gear change (I was only in gear 3 on the back)?
This was also the first time I used the small cog since the service


texts: What does a flashing yellow arrow traffic signal mean?

texts: While bike commuting in an urban setting, I've started noticing that some intersections have flashing yellow turn signals during part of the light cycle. What does this mean? If I am on my bike in the turn lane and a flashing arrow appears, can I proceed with the turn or should I wait for the arrow to turn green?


texts:
My wife's bike has a fork by RST, Sofi.
Definitely a budget fork, however is working quite well for the occasional use.
I saw that the the seals rings are quite damaged, and I was looking to substitute them.
I cannot find any manual online, and furthermore there isn't the classic screw on the bottom...
How do you open such low-cost forks and service them?


texts: How to calculate bike stand-over height using frameset geometry and wheel radius?

texts:
While it's best to buy through fitting a bike in store, it's not always possible (discussed here).

On some websites, the stand-over height of a bike may not be listed as part of the specifications.

However, simple geometry would dictate that there must be a way to calculate the stand-over height from knowing the frameset's tube lengths and angles, as well as the wheel diameter alone.

Or is there more to consider?

For example, taking the Genesis Day One Disc in the 60 cm variant as an example:

Seat tube (centre-top): 600mm
Effective Top Tube: 575mm
Head Tube: 185mm
Head Angle: 71.5°
Seat Angle: 74°
Chain Stay: 415mm
BB Drop: 64mm

Stem Length: 110mm

H/Bar Width: 44cm

That's more or less OK, but what size are the wheels?

Hubs: KT-SY1F / KT-MX7R 6-Bolt Disc
Rims: Alex XD-Lite Disc 32H
Tires: Continental Cyclocross Race 35c (wire)

I would like to know the standover in order to determine clearance between my crotch and the top tube.


texts: I replaced the no-name brake calipers on my bike with Ultegras today.  Am I correct in thinking the rear brake housing is too long and needs to be shortened?  And if so, how do I determine how much to remove other than trial and error?  (With one of the errors being too much.)


texts: How does one extrapolate riding calories to fellow riders?

texts:
A 30-kg child, a 60-kg adult, and a 90-kg adult go on a bike ride.
The 60-kg adult uses a cyclocomputer, which knows the weight of the adult—and gender and age, as well as the weight of the bike.
At the end of a ride, the cyclocomputer declares that the trip used 1000 calories.
Would it be accurate for the 60-kg adult to declare to the child and to the other adult that—if we were to ignore gender + age differences, as well as the difference in bike weights, which may well be serious omissions—that the child has just spent roughly 500 calories and the adult 1500 calories?
Two cyclocomputers may not even agree on the estimation of calories, and so this question only seeks a very rough "ball-park" confirmation whether the relation is linear.
In short, do cycling calories scale near-linearly with weight?
Since older children are typically quoted as needing 1500 calories per day, compared to an adult's 2000, before factoring in exercise, might we use this to expect that a child is using 75% of the calories during exercise as well?


texts: How to get rid of hub play in XTR FH-M975?

texts:
I recently bought a 2012 Santa Cruz Superlight 29, and there is some play in the rear wheel. The hub is an FH-M975 (XTR). With the wheel off, you can tell there's some play, but I guess there is supposed to be a little to begin with, and tightening the quick-release should remove the play. Even with a very tight quick-release, there is still noticeable play.

So, I decided to overhaul the hub following the instructions in Zinn. The overhaul went well, but the only way to get the play out is to really crank down the cone so there is no perceivable play in the axle. Zinn is clear, and other advice says the same, to make sure there is some play in the axle, then the quick-release will tighten it up. That said, I have it pretty tight now, and there is only just barely perceivable play in the wheel, and it spins just fine as far as I can tell.

Is there anything wrong here? Could something else be causing this problem? Should I just crank it down a little more until there is no play in the wheel?


texts: Shimano FC-5700 chainring with FD-5600 derailleur?

texts: Currently my front chainrings are Shimano FC-5600 48/40 with FD-5600 derailleur. As I can not get new chainrings in FC-5600 I was asking myself if my FD-5600 supports FC-5700 53/39 chainrings?


texts:
I currently run Shimano 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace (2X11) components on my road bike.

Chain Dura-Ace
Cassette & Crank 105
Derailleurs Ultegra

I am looking to replace my cranks when I wear out my next chain and want to experiment with different crank lengths (e.g 165, 170, 172.5, and inbetween etc.) without buying extra Shimano Cranks for $$$. I also want to make the jump up to 53/39 from 50/34 that is on there now.
I know Shimano does not make any adjustable length crank arms.
Do I have any off the shelf options to be able to use my other Shimano components and possibly use a 3rd party crank to get adjustable cranks without spending tons more than what I would on a Shimano Crank set?
Thanks
---- Update
I'll probably go about trying to see if I can rent or try out a crank arm for a bit to ensure the fit is good and then buy the full ultegra crankset. Just as a bit of a follow up does anyone know if you can buy the right side crank arm on for an ultegra crank set new as I see the left side sold separately, but not the right?
Thanks


texts: Can a fixed gear sprocket be changed without tools?

texts: I do not have a chain whip or sprocket ring tool. Is it possible to change the rear sprocket without these tools?


texts: How do I adjust my child's bike shown in this video to improve fit and comfort?

texts:
Timeline

Provided because I learnt a lot in the process

My 5yo daughter has started growing out of her Apollo Petal with 14" wheels and an upright position typical of a child bike.
Basic research and measurements lead to the conclusion she might be ok with a bike with either 16" or 18" wheels.
I found a good deal on a used mountain bike with 18" wheels so we tried that first but it was clearly too large for her.
I bought her a Decathlon B'TWIN 500 SPY HERO (although the sticker on hers says 900?!) on 16" wheels, still with a fairly upright position typical of a child bike.

The problem

I'm struggling to adjust it so that it's comfortable for her! Neither of us have the patience for more trial and error, so I'm hoping someone with a bit more experience can tell straight away what the issue is.

A similar bike has a good product video  where the actress
seems to have the bike adjusted exactly right (link is to product
website where video is included among photos, I don't think it's
possible to link to video directly and I couldn't find it on youtube
or similar)
This is what my daughter looks like on her bike at the moment. Is she just still a little short for it, or is there something I can do to improve her fit?

Things to note:

The seat only has height adjustment (I can't tilt it or move it forwards/backwards)
I am reluctant to put the seat higher up. At the current height, her
heels are slightly off the ground when sat.
The stem and handlebars are integrated so also only have height
adjustment too. They are nearly at the highest setting. We tried having them lower and it was even more awkward, she was constantly standing up on the pedals.


texts:
I have a Bosch/Rohloff bike that currently uses a 3/32 chain. Seems like that's the standard for Rohloff hubs. Problem is, I'd much rather use a 3/16 chain, i.e. a chain that's exactly twice as thick. Are there Rohloff sprockets designed for this? And if not, how difficult is it to manufacture a 3/16-compatible Rohloff sprocket?

Update: even though I'm still sticking with 3/32 chains, I'm now using the stupidly thick (8.8mm pin length) Connect 7R8 chains.


texts:
So I've got a nice hybrid bike that I picked up secondhand, was doing some maintenance on it to get it up and running and thought I'd replace the bearings in the rear axle.  In doing this, I've found a small pit in one of the cone nuts.

I don't have a picture, but this is the type of thing (In reality, mine's not as bad as this, it's less long and less deep):

Just thinking, would it be a really bad (or silly) idea to try to file the whole nut, so that the surface is smooth. I appreciate that this would be quite a lot of work to get right.

Cone nuts seem to vary so much and finding an exact replacement could be tricky, so thought I'd explore this idea...

Look forward to hearing your thoughts!


texts: Does a small bolt cutter do OK cutting spokes for a wheel build?

texts:
I'm hoping a cheap bolt cutter will make easier work and put less stress on my cable cutters when cutting and threading spokes for a wheel built. (My hands get knackered pulling on the shortish cable cutters, so 12 inches of leverage would be nice) While the cable cutter did a decent job of keeping the spoke end square-ish, I assume the bolt cutter, which is like a couple chisel points meeting, will give me a chisel-like point on the spoke end.

I'm wondering if anyone's used a bolt cutter for spokes during a build (not a disassembly). I've got a feeling the Hozan threader might not like the non-square end.


texts: How do I adjust my handlebars to allow me to ride hands free?

texts:
Or in other words -- how to make proper adjustment so the handlebar will be stable on flat road so I could ride with my hands off it.

I don't actual ride in such position I simply want stability. Just for the record how stable handlebar looks like when riding:


texts: Just bought a vintage Sprinter Gran Touring, where to find info?

texts: just picked up a vintage bicycle for C$75 and want to use it as a project bike. I'm curious before I start exactly what bike it is. The bike has the brand Sprinter and it says Gran Touring on the top tube. I can't seem to find any info online. It seems to be made in Canada and has a sticker at the bottom for Calgary Co-op, which today is just a grocery store. I've posted some pictures here in case someone can identify it.


texts: Suggested maintenance for rear shock between service intervals?

texts:
Typical rear shock has a suggested service interval around 150 hours or a year.

What is a suggested maintenance between those service intervals? Just oil the stanchion from outside? Any technique to do that because it is harder to pass the oil by the stanchion than with a fork?

Is the suggested interval a rule which should not be negotiated much or is it rather a recommendation which can be prolonged in case of less dirty rides (mud/wet).


texts: Will a front wheel with 24 spokes be strong enough for a total load of ~100kg?

texts:
I want to build a wheelset for my Adventure/Gravel Bike based on the DT Swiss GR 531. I want to use my SON Delux Dynamo Hub. Since it is for 24 Spokes I am thinking of mount the rear wheel with 28 straightpull and the front wheel with 24 non-straightpull Spokes. The bike is used during the for asphalt primary but also for bikepacking adventures in Iceland or Norway as well as gravel and forest rides at weekends.
My weight is 73 Kg. The bike will probably around 9.5 and I calculate 15 Kg of luggage and food.
Are 24/28 Spokes enough for what I want to do?


texts:
Where are the best places to find bike maps with local routes and trails?

Places I typically reference when searching for this includes:

Most local bike shops (LBS) have local maps available or for sale.
Employees of any LBS are often avid riders and will hold a plethora of knowledge about the local area and trails.
Local trail clubs (typically volunteers that help maintain trails in an area) can be a resource to direct you to finding maps or trail information.
Your local Chamber of Commerce or Parks & Rec type of department will typically have maps of local bike routes.
Google Maps has recently introduced the ability to find directions from one place to another by bike.  For certain metro areas they will route you along known bike routes or trails. When doing directions click on the "Bike" icon to tailor it specifically for bikes.

Please feel free to add more.


texts: New disc brake frame feels heavy at the back

texts:
Just bought a Cube Attain, and it is heavier than the Felt F95 that I just crashed. I liked the feel of that bike, but wanted disc brakes for the hills I ride - tried upgrading the brakes on the old bike.

The new bike feels heavy at the back, is it that it has a bigger cassette (34 tooth), or the discs (hydraulic)? I doubt that it's the wheels as they weren't great on the old bike. Wheels are supposed to weigh 1740gms which doesn't seem too bad.

Bike is same frame size, with the same amount of exposed seat tube. Frame is aluminium again, with carbon forks - again, the same as the old bike.

Geometry is very similar apart from seat stays which are lower down seat tube than old bike. Through axles on new bike, and 142mm axle on rear.

Irony is that although I have a bigger cog on back, I need it to  get up the same hills I did on my old bike with 6 teeth fewer.

Anything I can do?


texts:
I'm looking to buy my first MTB and I had an online calculator tell me to get a 17.5". My measurements are height: 177cm and leg 76cm.

Thing is, I found a bike that I REALLY want, but it's the last one and it's a 15.5" hence the good price. If I don't get this particular one I'll have to get something significantly lower spec as this is massively discounted.

I don't intend on doing really long rides ever. Maybe 2 hours max.

1.5" difference doesn't seem that much.. Will this be ok or am I about to waste allot of money?


texts:
I'm building my first bike: probably steel (easy to work with). 2X26" road tires. Full suspension. Will be used on sandy dirt roads, and paved streets with moderate incline. Want hands free option, and good directional stability--both seated and standing on uphill sections.

Which design factors will help stability? How much trail, fork shape, crank more forward or backward? What else?


texts: Apparently there is too much play, indicative of it being too worn to function properly. Would the RD-MC31 be compatible or is there a newer compatible set that I could use?


texts:
I'm just getting into biking and last week I just purchased a Cannondale Bad Boy 4 from REI. They still have it in the shop as I'm in the processing of moving and they agreed to hold onto it for me.

My question is regarding tires. I purchased the bike as an urban commuter vehicle as I've just moved downtown and am planning on using it for my commute to work. I also plan on taking it on some longer rides now and then on the city greenway (paved path), to get groceries, or to see friends. Nothing super long, maybe 10-20 miles max. The vast majority of my trips will be much shorter though, 1-2 miles through downtown.

I noticed the bike comes with "smooth" tires (not sure the right term for them), which appear (to me) more like long distance touring tires or something. Should I ask REI about switching out the tires with something with a bit of tread? I'm a bit concerned about running into rain on my commute and slick conditions.

The guy at the shop told me that the ones on the bike "should be fine" for what I'm looking to use the bike for and that I should just be sure to be careful in wet conditions. He said if I wanted to, I could get some "gator skin" tires down the road to have as another option. But I don't think I'd be interested in storing and/or switching out tires on my bike. I'd rather just have one set of good tires and stick with that.

Anyhow, what do you think? Based on my situation, should I stick with the smooth tires or see about switching them for something with a bit of tread on them? I'm more concerned with safety than lightning speed. Thanks for any insight!


texts:
What does it mean when people say that a bike part is "campy"?

I've heard people say "campy hub" and "campy chain", for example.


texts: Is it possible to fit a chain guard to a bike with derailleur gears?

texts:
I've been slowly going through the process of converting my old hardtail mountain bike into a commuting bike. One of the things that I'd like to do is to fit a chain guard so that I can ride the bike while wearing long trousers and not have to worry about chewing up the trouser cuffs.

A complication is that the bike (like most mountain bikes) is fitted with both front and rear derailleur gears. I'm not keen to replace these with an internally geared hub system as I have been trying to keep the changes relatively modest in their cost.

Are there chain guards that you can add to bikes with derailleur gears?


texts: Better to go with a longer spindle length bottom bracket or shorter?

texts: I have a 1987 Panasonic dx1000 that I am converting to a single speed. I was planning on replacing the bottom bracket. To get the measurements I measured the tube to be 70mm (2 3/4") and the spindle to be 125mm (4 7/8"). When looking for replacements I cannot find this size. Would it be better to go with a 68x122.5 mm or a 68x127.5 mm? It was a double cog and removed one so that it's only a single. Any suggestions?


texts: Cone size for Shimano Type D on Schwinn Cruiser

texts: What size wrench do I need for the rear hub on my Schwinn cruiser?  It is a Shimano Type D. Also, what grease is recommended that I might be able to by locally.  Thanks to all.


texts:
Are there lock products out there specifically designed for easy handling when locked unlocked dozens of times a day?

I'm using a normal, chain-based lock at the moment and I'm annoyed because

I'm doing constant slight damage to the frame when removing the lock from the bicycle
I need to carry a key at all times, fumble it from my pocket when it's time to go (often in a thankless, noisy, roadside environment), and fumble the lock back onto the bicycle

Are there any solutions out there that make frequent use as painless, and still as secure, as possible? I'm thinking about something that works like a remote-controlled car door lock. It should, however, still be possible to attach the bike to an object to prevent it from getting carried away.

  Related: best bike lock


texts: I am hauling my bike a couple of thousand miles

texts: Without the seat and post in.  Any suggestions what to plug the tube with?


texts: How do I clean chain grease off my clothes?

texts: I commute to work, and often wear my khakis on the ride in. As such, my clothes often get chain grease on them. What products or cleaning strategies do you know that work to remove chain grease from clothes?


texts: Toothed plastic cup on bottom bracket got sheared off - still removable?

texts:
I messed up. I wanted to switch out the bottom bracket on my bike. When I tried to do that the toothed cup on the left side (non-chain side) sheared off. The entire thing is now plain with its housing.

edit says: The other side is also not removable as the teeth got - for lack of a better word - destroyed when I tried to unscrew it. Didn't even apply that much force.

Is there a way to remove it without damaging the frame of the bike?

For reference: The 'destroyed' toothed cup you can see in this picture is what I'm talking about. In my case the cup is made out of plastic (I guess, based upon the fact that before it tore off some teeth got shredded).

This is the other side where the cup has been sheared off:

edit says: By the way, this is the tool I have been using in combination with a socket wrench:

EDIT/FINAL

Sorry it took so long but the bottom bracket is finally out. The cup that had the destroyed teeth was easily removed by combining a spanner and a wrench with the tool.

The other side - the one with the sheared off bit - was more stubborn and in the end a heat gun, a screw driver and a hammer were necessary  to get it out.  It was done by heating the cup up without damaging the frame or the bowden cable guard and then hammering the screwdriver into the inside of the cup in a way that unscrewed the cup. The thread of the frame into which the cup was screwed got damaged slightly.

Since Nathan's answer got the first cup out, I'm going to mark his as my answer.


texts: How much value do groupsets gain/loose per year?

texts:
What is the difference in value of a last-year component, and the equivalent one from this year? For example an SLX rear derailleur, an X0 crankset, a Fox Float fork.

How substantial is technology trickle-down. If a brand new bike from last year costs x, and the frame is unchanged, what could be expected the worth of the components to be, compared to the 2014 model? For example 5% less?


texts: Spindle diameter on the FSA Gossamer TT MegaExo crankset

texts: What is the spindle diameter on the FSA Gossamer TT MegaExo crankset? 24 mm or 30 mm? I can't find a direct answer anywhere. I have seen MegaExo described as 19 or 24 mm, but "Gossamer" as 30. I'm looking at the aforementioned crankset for my Giant Trinity BB90 bottom bracket shell, but I don't want to go 30 mm.


texts: Old Shimano Altus Hub disassembly. Clockwise or counter clockwise?

texts:
I hope to squeeze a bit more life out of this old Shimano Altus hub and apart from having to build my own tool:

Do I have to turn the inner part with the two notches clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Edit: Thanks to you guys I just needed to buy an Allen wrench for 2.75€. Turns out the small tool shop is much cheaper than the big 'we sell everything' construction markets. The hub needs a thorough cleaning and should be fine after that.


texts:
I've always used a lock nut with a presta valve, but I know others who don't use it and leave the valve stem to protrude through the rim hole without fastening.

What, if any, are the advantages of not using a locking nut for a presta valve?


texts: Is it legal for cyclists to use amber bike flashers for visibility (in BC, Canada)?

texts:
Amber bike lights can improve daytime visibility. This makes sense because white light looks similar to sunlight and amber light stands out more clearly. Being seen sooner means that drivers have more time to react. Possible situations that benefit from improved visibility include users changing lanes, traffic circles, users turning, drivers opening their doors, users waiting at cross streets, and oncoming users passing. Also, amber may be easier on our eyes which can improve safety even more.

The question is whether it's legal to use them in BC? Does the BC Motor Vehicle Act say anything about it?

If it's not legal, then a possible alternative might be to avoid strobe patterns.

Dinotte sells amber bike headlights.
http://www.dinottelighting.com/LED_bike_lights/dinotte-daytime-amber-aa-headlight.htm

Video of a Dinotte amber light being used:

From local bike stores, it's getting more common for bike lights to have amber for sides.
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5053-077/Bottle-Blinky-Sidelight
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5055-194/Urban-900-Light

Here's are some custom made ones.

https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Powered-Yellow-Bike-Light-FrontSide-Combo/


texts: Putting 8-sprocket cassette on a 18-speed bike

texts:
I have an 18 speed and want to swap the wheels out, but the new rear wheel has an 8-sprocket cassette and the one on the bike has a 6-sprocket . I plan on swapping them but just for fun I tested it out without swapping them and the 8-sprocket rides just fine even though two of the sprockets will never be used.

Would it cause problems to ride with the 8-sprocket or can I just leave it on and won't experience any differences?


texts: Tiagra 9 speed triple front with a 10 speed group

texts: I want to temporarily swap parts on two bikes for a trip - I currently have a Tiagra 9-speed setup and a bike with Ultegra 6600 double/10 speed. Is it possible to use the triple front shifter from a 9-speed group with the Ultegra group (substituting an Ultegra triple crank and FD that I'd buy) ?


texts: in need of help. Looking at buying a hybrid bike. Anxious on getting the correct size. Different sites say different things for the size I require. The bike I’m looking at is the carrera subway 1 men’s. (This is my budget) I’m a female 5ft 6in (167cm) with a 29.9in (75cm) inseam. The bike has 27.5 tyres. Do I need 16” or 18”. The size guide says 16 but I’m anxious and others are telling me that’s to small? Thanks.


texts: Recently My freehub broke and so I removed the cassette to replace the freehub and noticed, whilst off the bike, 4 of the remaining bolted together 8 sprockets wiggled (4 wiggled together but separately from the other 4). (10 speed shimano hg62-10). I also noticed some scratch marks on the freehub body (see pic) and wondered if this had anything to do with it. Does my cassette need replacing, or is this OK?


texts: How do I prevent my chain from dropping down while going downhill on bumpy surfaces?

texts:
I have a Merida Duke 650 hardtail mountain bike.

The issue with my bike is the chain continuously keeps coming out of gear while I am going down hill on bumpy surfaces.

Is this happening because my rear derailleur is too soft?

Is there a quick fix or trick to avoid this from happening?


texts: I bought my son a powerlite Jr cruiser. He would like to but a bigger tire on it. It currently has 520mm 24" wheels with 1" tires. Question is how wide is a 24" 507 bmx rim? I can't find specs anywhere. His current rims are 11/16" wide and I think it's possible to fit a 1.75 or 1.50 tire.


texts: Converting hybrid to gravel bike, flat to drop bars and brifters?

texts:
I'd really like some advice on changing the bars on my bike to drop bars from flat. My bike is nothing special, but I really like it and would like to try to convert it, rather than buy a new bike. I prefer the riding position of drop bars. I've got a biking adventure coming up at the end of October that I'd like this to be done for.
Here's what I'd like to do:

Swap the tyres to Schwalbe Rapid Rob Kevlar Guard MTB Tyre

Change the handlebars to Farr Aero Gravel handlebar, or similar!?

Use my existing brake calipers, but have levers on the new bars

Use my existing gears/derailleur, but have the shifters on the new
bars.

Here is the full spec of my current bike: https://99spokes.com/bikes/pinnacle/2020/lithium-3

Rear Derailleur   Shimano Acera M360 8 speed
Front Derailleur  Shimano Altus M313 band on 31.8mm
Shifters  Shimano Altus M310 8 speed
Cassette  Shimano HG200 8 speed 12-32T
Chain KMC Z-51
Brakes    Tektro Auriga M275 hydraulic discs w/160mm rotor

Is this possible? I'm fairly handy, but not done much work on bikes previously. Could anybody help me in getting somewhere close to a shopping list?!


texts: How can I convince my company to sponsor corporate cycling gear?

texts:
I work for a medium sized company (about 200 people). We have a small but reasonably active BUG (Bicycle Users Group). I've seen corporate cycling gear before and have some friends who can get corporate gear cheap.

I'd like to propose to my company that they subsidise some corporate branded cycling gear, but I'm not sure how to pitch it. I've created a short survey on SurveyMonkey and know there is definitely some interest from my colleagues.

From my perspective, the pluses are:

Employee satisfaction - getting a bit of a perk of the job
Corporate marketing/promotion - getting the company visible, especially in group rides

What else should I emphasize in my pitch? Has anyone done this successfully and if so, how did you go about it?


texts: What are the benefits of a frame-bag over panniers? I need one for a bike-packing trip (any good value recomendations welcome). I've used panniers in the past but I've seen a lot of framebags about.


texts: You can buy the same bike at different stores (see for example the Schwinn Discover, here, here, and here). Does the place where you buy the bike from matter in terms of what parts they put on it? Or is the only difference in the assembly?


texts: Climbing or aero bike for a light rider?

texts:
What is the better choice for a lightweight rider (173cm - 48 kg), lightweight climbing bike to get even bigger edge when climbing, or an aero bike to catch up the speed in the flat road?

Obviously I will 'need' to have both bikes in the end.