texts: Doing a 230km / 142 mile cycle this weekend over 2 days, what vital equipment am I missing?

texts:
This will be my first long distance cycle over 100km's / 62 miles.
Last weekend I did a 60km / 37 mile cycle without too much difficulty, so I'm pretty sure I can get through at least day 1, day 2 will be a struggle but then again I have the whole day on Sunday and can move as slow as I want.

This is the gear I am going with :

Bike: Trek 7.2 FX (2011) (Stock standard, no mods) - recently serviced!

Pants: decent mountain bike cycle pants with pads (not sure on the brand, but a good pair)

Shirt: regular cotton t-shirt (nothing fancy)

Jersey / Jacket : None

Backpack : CamelBack HAWG 20 - holds 3l of liquid.

Nav : Garmin Dakota 20 with heart monitor - and map planned - route broken down into 5 stages routing along cycle paths mainly, no major roads, except for the odd crossing here and there.

Shoes: Beach style summer sandals with velcro straps - no socks!

Contents of backpack:

1x Spare inner tube
2x AA battery spares for the Dakota
1x MP3 player with charging cable
1x Phone with charging cable
Initially 3l of pure cold water in the reservoir
Wallet (cash + credit card + id + medical insurance card)
Puncture repair kit
1 x pump (nice and compact and proven to work)
1 x Camera and charger
1 x Clean underwear change.

Food and additional drinking material I intend to buy on route until I get out far into the country after about 50km's then I'll buy some stock for the road.

What have I missed, and any additional tips for this ride are welcome.

Last thing I would like to add, I've read on some sites that listening to music while cycling isn't advisable, what would you say?

Should I take some form of self protection for the road? Mace or maybe a hunting knife - I mean you never know?

Thanks guys - look forward to the responses.


texts: Can one upgrade cable fork remote to a hydraulic fork remote? (Rockshox Pushloc to XLoc Sprint?)

texts:
I have a hard tail with a cable based remote lock:

RockShox Pushloc:

However, it's not that reliable. 90% of the time it works, but sometimes it get's stuck and won't unlock the first time around. I have to wiggle/press again for it to work. (I tired taking apart, oiling etc...).

I want to upgrade to a Rock shox XLoc Sprint, a hydraulic remote lock.
Is this possible? It seems like it has a slightly different mechanism at the top. Would I be able to take out the cable based one and replace it with the hydraulic version without changing the fork?


texts: How much motor do I need for my electric-assist bike?

texts:
I take my twins to preschool by car, and I'd like to switch to doing it by bike.

There's a hill, and we're heavy, and I'm not in great shape, so it's hard. I've done it a few times, but I always collapse when I get home, and I certainly don't have the energy to do it twice (drop-off + pick-up). I take a while to recover. It takes a lot longer, too.

I also would like to always bike to the grocery store and other errands, but they are within the range of the preschool, so let's focus on that one for now.

I'm looking at electric-assist bikes as a way to overcome the hurdle and starting doing this trip by bike (almost) every time. I've seen bolt-on hub-motor systems for as little as $300, and Big Dummy + Stoke Monkey setups for $3000+.

Data:

The bike + trailer + me + passengers weigh 430 lbs. There's a 230' climb on the way there, and 110' climb on the way back. I can drive it in 4 minutes but biking takes 20 minutes.

How much motor (and how much battery) do I need to invest in?


texts: Does chamois creme affect the life of cycling shorts?

texts: Does chamois creme have any effect on the life of cycling shorts? I know it's made to be used for cycling but does it make the chamois (or maybe a synthetic one) wear out faster?


texts:
On the 17th of August I'm doing a 250 mile ride in the UK in one day. I'm no stranger to longer rides often completing 100 mile rides and my longest ever was 175 miles (it was fairly unpleasant towards the end).

I'm quite squeezed for time, so getting really long rides in prior to this event is difficult.

My question is, what's the most effective training possible over several shorter sessions (perhaps up to about 2hrs long) between now and then? I can probably just about get 8hrs of training in per week.

I quite enjoy doing really hard threshold intervals, and I've heard sweetspot training is highly effective, but I'm just not sure if that's better than sticking in zone 2 for this event?

Note: I feel strong enough to complete 250 miles now, but I want to make it as pain free as it can be. I have a power meter so I can train effectively, and I also have a turbo trainer and the trainerroad app.


texts: Crank is slipping freely occassionally when pedaling; occasional "clonk" sound-not sure where sound is coming from-crank is tight, no movement or looseness


texts: Cycling on the sidewalk/pavement fines in belgium/netherlands

texts:
So, when cycling there is one narrow, but busy road I always 'evade' parked cars by cycling a bit on the sidewalk. I am aware this is entirely illegal, however compared to the alternative (stopping every 30 seconds for the 5 minutes it takes me to get to the end or jumping in front of cars which by law should break and drive behind me... but they are going a bit too fast for that) it is a risk I am always taking. I do wonder however, how badly would I be fined for this if caught?

PS. The road in question is in Belgium, so for all practical purposes I only care about the Belgium fine, but as I am Dutch I tend to do this to a lesser extend (the Dutch traffic situation is far better) in the Netherlands as well so would love to know both fines.


texts: Can North American pedals with a 9/16” x 20 TPI thread be used on a European rental bike or is there a metric requirement?


texts: Seating the rear derailleur cable housing

texts:
Unpacked road bike. Assembly is simple enough, except that the rear derailleur cable housing is not in its groove (I'm sure there is a specific term).

Here is a picture.

No matter how much I tug (manually), the lower part in the picture—whatever it's called, housing endpoint?—will not fit in its seat, or "groove".

The brakes need no adjustments out of the box, and so I'm assuming the derailleurs are likewise already tuned and I don't need to disassemble, say, the screw holding the end of the cable near the cogset.

What's the trick?


texts: Salvaging valuable parts from a broken vintage bike

texts:
I've got a 1971 Motobecane Club frame which is now about 1cm shorter than it used to be due to an unplanned merging of the front of the bike with the hood of a car which was in the process of turning; What parts are valuable enough to keep and try to sell?

The (already-removed) brakes are Weinmann Symetric side-pulls with Kool-Stop salmon pads which are about halfway used-up (but for salmon pads that means probably at least 1/2 years of daily riding)
The rear lamp is a Soubitez from a similar era ('70s/early '80s) but the front lamp was irreparably damaged
The chainset is an aluminium "Motobecane"-branded model from the '80s and was bought as NOS only a few months before the crash
The front derailleur is a Sachs-Huret Jubilee (i.e. is from the early '80s) which was bought as NOS only a few months before the crash
The rear derailleur is a Huret Allvit which likely came with the bike (i.e. is from 1971) and has signs of heavy use but has no damage
Although it can't be seen here, the saddle is torn so it's probably worthless


texts: Can I lace a XTR rear hub with thirty two spokes from a Valiant asymmetrical rim to a thirty two hole Magic regular rim?


texts:
I want to shorten my seatpost it fouls the non-OEM kickstand on my folding bike when lowered.

What is the best way to cut a (33.9mm alu) seatpost? Can I just use a rotary plumbing pipe cutter? The edges of a seatpost appear to be deburred or smoothed, what's the best way to achieve this?
There's no minimum insertion markings. Is there a rule of thumb in their absence?


texts: Are the Truvativ powerspline BBs reliable?

texts:
When I first got my Haymaker 1500 about 2 years ago the BB crank interface was the Truvativ powerspline pattern.  In the first winter my left arm came loose when it was cold (-15*C or so).  Since it was cold I wasn't really looking at my bike that much and the bolt loosen up and the arm began to wobble.  This led it to damage the interface of the arm.  After using some tin shivs to take up the slack and allot of red threadlocker on it (which I did in my place and gave it a day to warm up first and another to set, and used put more than enough torque on it), and then it was good until 2 months later were the bolt loosen up again (but with only a slightly wobbling of the crank arm) despite all the red threadlocker on it.  Tried to fix it again but the 8mm bolt (old) broke off into the BB with out any real force.  So, I got a new BB and left arm and it was good for for 3 months in the late spring, same thing but with the right arm.  The arms interface was fine (caught it early, so no damage).  I got a new bolt this time with thread locker, 40Nm of torque, and gave it 2 days to set.  It was fine for 5 months when it began to wobble again and this time the bolt broke off into the BB when I was riding.

Since then I replaced the BB interface system with the Octalink and I haven't had a single problem in the last few months.

So are powersplines really this bad, or did I just have a lot of bad luck?


texts: Does a helmet become useless after it slips from the hand and hits the ground?

texts:
I have a STUDDS motorbike helmet purchased 10 years back which I wear even today. I have not met even one single accident, but several times due to my carelessness the helmet has fallen off my hands and landed on ground with a thud!

Now, I wish to know whether after a slip from the hand should a helmet be replaced?


texts:
I picked up an old Raleigh Sirocco from the 1980s ish and am attempting to convert it to single speed. I thought it was finished, but when taking it out for its first ride, the chain kept falling off the chainring in the front (yes, the chain is tightened properly). The bike has a 48/52T SR Apex crankset with two chainrings. I wanted to just leave it on and install the chain on the smaller 48T chainring to save having to replace these parts (especially since it has an obsolete 118 BCD). I installed a single speed 18T 3/32 freewheel in the rear.
Maybe I am unable to use only one chainring of the double set in this way? Originally there was a front derailleur, which I removed - is that why it keeps falling off? Perhaps I need to reinstall it to keep the chain "in place", even though I won't be using it to shift gears anymore. Or alternatively, Should I remove both chainrings and install a new one instead (provided I can find one in the right size)? And if so - is there a difference between single speed and geared chainrings? Or do I need to replace the entire crankset? (I hope not...)
I checked the chainrings already and they do not seem bent / excessively worn.
Thanks a lot!


texts:
I was planning on doing my winter training this year on a mountain bike (for ergonomic reasons), but it occurred to me that the skewer for the Active Braking Pivot on my Top Fuel might not be work well. In the below pic, you can see the metal flange which would sit in the trainer, I'm worried about it getting bent or otherwise damaged (I'm ~205lbs/94kg). For those not familiar with ABP, there's a pin that moves through the channel you can see at the end, which allows you to unscrew the skewer (the end cap is attached to the frame).

Has anyone had experience with using an ABP bike on a trainer, specifically with long-term regular use? I have a blackburn fluid trainer.


texts: Can anyone identify this second hand bike?

texts:
I am looking into getting a new (for me) road / TT bike and this came up but I think it isn't a Specialized Shiv...

many thanks


texts: Shimano chainring compatibility (7400 vs. 7700)?

texts:
I have a 2003-era 9-speed Dura-Ace drivetrain, FC-7700 crankset (cranks are 175mm; rings are B-type, 53/39, 130 BCD).

I recently came across a brand new 7400-series B-type 53t chainring. Does anyone know if this will work as-is on my crank? Or should I expect any degradation in shifting performance?

Thanks in advance,

Al


texts: What can I do to fix or replace this broken axle?

texts:
I cased a jump badly and I broke either my bottom bracket or crank, I’m not sure which. What can I do to fix or replace this?

Picture is of my broken bottom bracket or crankset.


texts: Why does the rear hub (cassette) moves on the axle when I pedal?

texts:
I am new to this website. I am also new to the terms, and names related to bicycle components.

I have a bicycle called a Burner SuperCycle.

I went to the repair shop twice in the last year because things started breaking down. I am not using my bike in an extreme environment. Just in the street of my city. What I have noticed is, after a while, I start hearing a strange noise when I pedal. And with time it gets worse and worse and now it's just too much.

A couple days ago I decided to investigate by putting my bicycle upside-down and pedaling manually. There was no strange noise but the rear hub/cassette was moving up and down in a circular manner on the little bar that goes trough it (I don't know the name, sorry).

So I have a strong feeling this is where the sound is coming from.

What should I do next? Take off the whole wheel? Tighten up something?


texts: How much is average annual maintenance of a mid-range electric bike?

texts:
I'm considering buying a mid range e-bike for commuting (3 miles one way, all city road/bike lane). it's about £1000 to buy the bike, but how much is it to service the bike? I don't need an exact number, but some ballpark would be very useful. Is it less than £100? £100-300? or £300+?

Also, do e-bike repairs usually get done same day?


texts: I am willing to buy a new mtb.But i am totally confused about which brake to choose.I want to do daily communication by my mtb. and also often want to do stunts.in this circumstances which kind of brake is best for me???


texts: Replacing non-standard pedals on an exercise bike

texts: I'd like to replace the pedals on my "Pro Fitness" recumbent exercise bike, and use clipless pedals instead (MTB or SPD). I tried to replace them, but found the diameter on the crank hole is too small for the pedals I had lying around (SPD and flat). Could I replace the cranks? I only see cranksets for normal bikes online.


texts:
I was changing the spindle for a longer one in three Crankbrothers pedals (Candy 1, Eggbeater 1 and 2). Two were wery simple, the plastic cap, the spindle nut and take down the pedal body with all the bearings. No noticable force required, one just takes the body down smoothly.

In one case, however, I am not able to remove it even with the maximum force of my hands and with some rubber mallet hits. I think the inner part of the enduro bearing is stuck to the spindle. Is there some reasonable way to solve this problem without destroying the bearing? Or could it be claimed as a warranty defect?

Although I may still quite well use the pedal in its current shape, I will definitely need to get the bearing out when the time for new bearings comes.


texts: Is a Hollowtech II BB compatible with an Octalink Crank? (Shimano Claris)

texts: If I fit a Shimano Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket (Claris), can I still use my Octalink Claris crank?


texts: What type of saddle doesn't hurt the pelvic bone?

texts: I have been having issues with my pelvic bone when riding my bike. I have a very good bike, and the saddle is wide, but after riding 10 minutes my pelvic bone kills me to the point that I have to stop riding to rest it. I want to be able to ride more than this but am confused on which saddle to purchase. Some sites tell you to use a narrow seat, and others say a wide seat. What type of saddle should I look for?


texts: Why is my front Derailleur not shifting as smooth as it used to?

texts: I have a Specialized Hard Tail 10' Model. When I ride and am shifting to the bigger gear on my front derailleur it isn't as smooth as it used to be or sometimes doesn't shift to the gear I'm going for. How can I fix this? Do I need to adjust my shifting cables and loosen my barrel adjusters?


texts: Where can I get a sprocket that works with a standard bicycle chain that mounts onto a 5/8" bore rod?

texts: I'm trying to set up a bicycle powered machine (grain mill), and I want to drive a 5/8" diameter shaft with a standard bicycle chain. I'm trying to find a sprocket that is 5/8" bore that fits a bicycle chain. I've tried 3 separate ones on Amazon and all of the sprockets are too wide for a standard bicycle chain. Does anyone know where to get a sprocket like this?


texts:
I am looking to build a dirt jump track and after realizing how much dirt is really required for a proper jump I am exploring using a wood frame to pile dirt on top of to reduce the need for dirt. I live in San Diego with little rain, so it seems this is as good a climate as there is to use wood without being overly concerned about the wood going bad or rotting or decomposing. My plan was to build a bridge more or less with about 18-24 inch "hand rail/walls." I would then fill the dirt in over the bridge up to the top of the wall (so the dirt would be about 18-24 inches thick) so there is a table top with a take off and landing I can sculpt. I was going to use pressure treated lumber when possible for structural integrity/longevity, set the posts of the bridge in concrete, and use sealed plywood where necessary. It seems this would be very solid.
If it lasts 3 years, I would be happy. I suspect it will last longer than that in San Diego. Questions:

Has anyone seen this/have any feedback?

Is 18-24 inches enough dirt to properly compact and hold? I would think so as I have seen small 24 inch tall jumps and they don't fall apart.

Any thoughts on pressure treated lumber lasting a long time in contact with dirt that will need to be lightly watered somewhat frequently? I've seen posts saying pressure treated wood should last decades in contact with the ground.

Thoughts?
Thanks,
MB


texts: How can I look unsafe to a car driver but be safe

texts:
This research seems to show car drivers give you more space if they think you are more likely to do something unpredictable.

It claims that where a cycle helmet often results in drivers giving you less space.

So how I make a driver think I am not a safe cyclist without being unsafe.

Is this the reason why the cyclists I always saw in Cambridge without lights never seem to get knocked of their bikes, but “safe” cyclists I knew with good lights and reflective jackets etc did sometimes (not often) get knocked of their bikes?

Direct link to research and a blog post by the researcher.


texts: Is it safe to ride a dual suspension bike in sub freezing temps?

texts: I have a Giant VT3 with dual suspension and I'm thinking of using it as a winter bike is there any special care I should take before heading out into the cold?


texts: Need help picking the right rear derailleur and chain for Giant Escape 2

texts:
Product page for the bike i have: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/escape.2/14810/75679/#specifications

I'm not able to make sense of the variations of shimano altus derailleurs,
here's one:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-M280-Altus-Rear-Derailleur/dp/B00WY0NRYA

And would the , KMC Z7 6/7/8-Speed 116L Shimano HG, be a good replacement chain?


texts: My rear wheel is wobbling much after around 3 months of use. Is there any fix that i could do it or should i replace the wheel?

texts: So i checked the few available solutions. But in my case when I hold the wheel and shake it sideways it is not wobbling it is firm. But when I ride I can see the tyre wobbling and it looks like the sprocket is moving, it is like the sprocket is not firm on the axel? not sure what the problem could be.


texts: what oil for daily fork tube lubrication?

texts:
Some guy tells me to use "silk honey" for my fork tube.
But it's hard to come by from where I am.

Any good stuff you guys use?
Can I use RockShox 5/15wt damper oil?

All my bike use RockShox by the way.


texts: What are the features that I should seek in cycling glasses?

texts: I am seeking eye protection for cycling. I don't know if I should buy glasses or goggles.


texts: Shimano BR-RS505 brake caliper retainer screw stuck

texts:
My bike has a set of Shimano BR-RS505 hydraulic brakes and the rear pad axle, datasheet item 10, just won't budge.

The flathead screw stripped a little when I tried to release it and I didn't go any further.

My first thought was to carefully apply some WD-40 (all I have) into the screw then use a heat gun to hopefully loosen it off.

I've also been told that the only other solution would be using a small hacksaw to cut through the pin!

How should I proceed? Thanks!

(I have also bought replacement, seemingly compatible, hex screws rather than flatheads..)


texts: Which e-bike kit should I choose? Hub vs chain driven (hilly terrain)

texts:
I am looking in buying one of these budget (I am on tight budget) kits:

Chain driven kit cost $100
front wheel hub kit  cost $100

My bike is multi gear and where I live there are some challenging steep hills, not all of them paved.

Which kit would perform better?

Stealth and sound are not relevant issues for me.

BTW the chain driven (cranked?) one does not connect to the bike gear system, so it does not use advantage of changing gears.

I couldn't find any info about the chain one.


texts: Convert Shimano Ultegra 6870 rear mech from short cage to medium cage

texts:
I would like to ride with a 11-32 cassette but I have a short caged Ultegra 6870 derailleur. Can I just swap the cage? Or are there other differences between the derailleurs?

Cheers


texts: I have a bike with mtb tyres size 26*1.95. I am planning to put a smaller hybrid tyre. Is that possible. If so kindly let me know what size would fit. The rim size is 26*1.75.


texts:
I keep getting punctures with road bike tires riding the street in Baltimore. I know they are not the cleanest but I should not be getting a flat every single time. Using Continental Gator Skin and Continental 28mm tubes on my Trek hybrid, which I converted to dropbars to make as many improvements without blowing the bank on a road bike.
I typically keep the PSI around 80-90. These are new tubes and tires as I thought the first flat was related to having tubes and tires that hadn't been replaced in 5 years. However, that was not the issue. I was able to identify one cause being a 3-4mm glass shard that punctured the tire and tube. This most recent puncture shows no sign of puncture on the tire for a very tiny circular puncture on the tube.
Can anyone suggest a couple reasons why I would be consistently getting flats other than road conditions?
Should I consider getting some commuter tires instead?


texts: Fork trail vs chainstay length in steering

texts:
Is fork trail or chainstay length is a bigger determinant in the overall steering of the bike?

Consider an arbitrary frame that I think is steers too slowly.  I'm going to rebuild it because I want a fun project, have some scrap metal, all the parts, and I want to build another similar bike that steers a bit quicker and is more racy.

All other things being equal, mainly the head tube angle, would building another frame with shorter chainstays be a better way to go about it than using a fork with less trail?

I'm interested in the rate of change in the steering of the bike while changing those two factors, and which one affects the steering more, and by how much if it can be measured - i.e. 1mm change in trail could be offset by 2mm change in chainstay length (that's probably wildly inaccurate - I'm hoping to hear from some frame builders).


texts: Is it considered rude to draft other random cyclists?

texts:
On my commute to work, if there a cyclist in front of me, is it rude to catch up and draft?  To effectively draft I would usually need to be within a foot of their back wheel.

There are two situations:

Trainers
There is one part of the commute that is often used by individuals and groups of riders who seem to be training rather than commuting. Generally I would draft these guys if I can sprint to catch them.  As they are going quicker than I can sustain, I never take a turn at the front.

Commuters
I think any fellow commuter is probably ok to draft and if they slow down enough I'll take a turn at the front.


texts: Quick link too easy to remove after installation, is this a problem?

texts:
As I always do, I've used a an 11-speed KMC quick link to close my 11-speed chain. However, this time the quick link was particularly easy to fit (and similarly very easy to remove). Is this an issue? In other words, could there be a situation, under normal use, in which the chain is not operating in tension and the quick link unexpectedly comes apart? If I compress the chain by hands the link easily opens and I'm a little nervous that the same would happen when I'm out on the road.
Update: I took the bike to my local bike shop and they replaced the KMC link with a Shimano one saying "the KMC links tend to be on the loose end, so we prefer to use Shimano ones"


texts:
I bought this SRAM PC1091 chain for my compact chainset and have been running it since January. In order for the chain to fit properly I cut a few links from it.
I am now getting a standard chainset, so I think I will have to add some links back on the chain.

Can I reattach this link to my chain to make it longer? This is how I left it when I chopped it.


texts: Road bike or hybrid for fitness (also including some commuting and loose gravel)?

texts:
I'm new to cycling and want to start riding regularly as a form of exercise. I'm mostly going to be riding on roads/pavement but may come into contact with the occasional gravel-isn road https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Tamsa.JPG

I may use it for commuting 1/5 times but it will mostly be for fitness.
For now I don't see myself riding long distances. I'm not sure what the distance looks like but I would expect 2 hour rides maximum (most days just 45 minutes to an hour).

I don't want a bike that's too heavy or has too many complicated gears, but I do want one that will hold up well and can accommodate the occasional change in path.

My previous bike was the cheapest I could find. It was a cruiser and barely lasted a few months when the tire popped after riding over an acorn on the road. So I want a bike where that won't happen again...


texts: Bike shifts well for low gears OR high gears - but not both

texts:
I have been having issues with my 9-speed rear derailleur and was hoping somebody could help shine some light on it. Thanks in advance! I can adjust my rear cable tension such that either the few top gears or few low gears will shift appropriately, but not both.

If I tighten the cable, the shifting for gears 1-2-3 is very smooth - but then trying to shift to 4-5-6-7 it gets a bit more sluggish and then 8-9 barely work at all (i.e. if the shifter is set to 8 it will stay in 7, and if the shifter is set to 9 it will stay in 8).

Conversely, if the cable is loose the bike shifts well in gears 1-2-3-4, but then it is very sluggish for 5-8, and when the bike is in 9 the chain is constantly trying to "jump" into 8th.

What I've done:
-The lower limit screw is set such that when the cable is disconnected the bike pedals in 1 smoothly
-The upper limit screw is set such that when I push the derailleur inward the bike pedals on 9 smoothly and I am unable to force the chain into the spokes
- I've replaced the derailleur hanger (as I read this is a common issue when a few gears present shifting issues)
- I've adjusted the B-tension screw such that the derailleur cog is 5 mm from the biggest cassette cog when in 1st gear

I'm wondering if the "range" over which the derailleur is moving left-right is slightly smaller than the cassette's width and therefore by tightening the cable I can force it to match the low gears fairly well, and vice versa for the high gears. I've googled pretty extensively and haven't found anybody else describing this issue unless they are trying to match shifters, derailleurs, and cassettes with different gear counts, which I am not.

If it's helpful: I recently converted by bike to a 1x9 using Shimano Alivio 9 speed shifter, Shimano Alivio Shadow 9 speed rear derailleur, Sunrace 11-40T 9 Speed Cassette and a JGbike derailleur hanger extender (the derailleur cog was running up against the biggest cassette cog)


texts: Old Kalkoff cross bike, worth restoring or not?

texts:
I just acquired a used 21 gear old Kalkoff cross bike (cant even find correct model name). The frame and most expensive parts seem intact, so I was just wondering if it would be cool and inexpensive to restore bike: repaint, change faulty/old parts.

Community, help me identify how much would it cost to restore its functionality and aesthetic look. Which parts would you recommend and so on...

Here are the bike pictures: http://imgur.com/a/aqTHh

Big thanks in advance.


texts:
I was getting my road bike out earlier and heard a clunking sound when I dropped the back wheel. I repacked the bearings in it ~200 miles ago, and the wobble felt like bearing play. However when I removed the wheel it was the cassette that wobbled, and when I removed the cassette the freehub moved from side to side inside the wheel hub. It was fine before I repacked the hub.

What on earth could have caused the problem?? Perhaps degreaser somehow got into the freehub and wore something down...

UPDATE

I followed you advice mikes, although my 10mm hex key was too small for the nut. Furthermore, when i grasped the freehub body to inspect the amount of play, it came off in my hand!

The bearing you can see aren't the 3/16" hub bearings but lots of tiny little ones that were packed inside the freehub. I believe the other half of the freehub, the part attached to the hub by a hex key, is still bolted onto the wheel.

The wheel is part of a bike from decathlon, which is still covered under their parts warranty. Would this damage be caused by a defective freehub or have I broken it somehow during my maintenance regime?


texts:
I have a foldie which has always had bad/weak rear brakes, which keep getting worse. To preempt the response that they are expected to be weaker than front brake, this isnt a question about weight transfer, or traction being lower in the back, or the rear wheel locking up sooner. Right now, if i were to brake the rear while moving, I barely feel any braking at all. I have tried to adjust it to be angled correctly and hitting the rim correctly but it seems to make the issue worse.

I recently noticed that both the rim surfaces are a bit curved (the centre is about 1 mm thiner/deeper than the top/bottom edges (if that makes sense). One side is worse than the other, which made me feel it was a manufacturing defect, but now i see that the other side has a similar (but less pronounced) curve, which makes me feel it is just a wear thing.

I also notice that the rear brake pads are very smooth to the touch. They still have the grooves vertically, which indicates that they arent worn out yet? Should i try to sand it down a bit to try and improve the braking?

Is there anything else I can do? Is the rim wearing down normally or is that the cause of the braking issue? (I have been sorta compulsively trying to adjust the back brake nearly as long as i can remember, cant get them working as I would like.)

The bike is ~2 years old, ~1300km riden. Sorry for the rambly post.

Edit: The rim is curved, but the wear indicators are still quite pronounced. Does this mean the rim has bent rather than worn out? The brake pads are quite worn out as well, one of the edges of one of the pads has reached the wear indicator, so I have ordered a new pair. Removing, servicing, and reseating the pads seems to have given me some braking power for now. Remains to be seen if it lasts long. I could find a couple of small metal pieces(like 2-3 sub mm size) on the pad, but not enough to explain the wear. I wasn't able to hear them when I brake either so might not have been a major factor.


texts:
Recently I noticed that my bike makes a loud clanking sound when I start pedalling, both from a stand still and after freewheeling. If I remember correctly the problem started after I washed the bike, so my first thought was that some of the degreaser got into some bearings. But given that the LBS has re-greased everything down to the threads of the through axles that option is less likely.
The LBS tried but couldn't detect any play, I have yet to try myself though.
I should also stress that there is just one clank after I start pedalling, which makes me think something is settling in to place, as for what it might be, I have no Idea. It also doesn't mater how much pressure I put on the pedals. I do feel a slight click on the non-drive-side along with the clank, but that could also just be my imagination. I haven't been able to recreate the symptoms when the bike was in the bike stand. The bike is a giant propel 2020 model.
Does anyone have an idea what this might be?
Looking forward to your input


texts: change derailleur and shifter in an old road bike reconverted to hybrid

texts:
I have an old road bike, that I converted to a hybrid bike, I just use it for small tourings. Some time ago I changed the handlebar, the brake levers and the tires.

Recently the derailleur broke up, it was in bad shape and there's no way to repair it, so I just want to get a new one, also I would like to replace the shifters, as they are the old ones that are on the frame, and put triggers like an MTB.

The bike has a 6 speed cassette, I was thinking in a cheap Shimano Tourney derailleur but I can't happen to find trigger shifters of 6 speed on online stores. My idea would be to put a 7 speed shifter with just 6 speeds and someday change the cassette.

What you think? Would be possible to put a 7 speed cassette? Any other suggestions?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Real measurable benefit to ceramic bearings?

What's the different between ceramic and steel bearing ?
On the bottom bracket, what do you feel when you change into ceramic bearing ?
is it better then steel on BB7800 ?

Better power transfer ? if it's almost the same, not worth the money then ??
thanks a lot


texts: Which clothes to use in wet weather for long distances?

texts:
When I want to do a longer ride (let's say 3 hours) in rainy weather, what are the best ways to keep dry? I already checked this question, but it does not address long rides and most answers only give information about rain coats and tips for short rides, like commuting.

I want to know what clothes to use on long rides:

shoes
legwear
(rain)coats
face/helmet


texts: How to remove the broken ball end of a small hex key that is now stuck inside the socket

texts:
While trying to replace the yoke of my derailleur I made the mistake of using a multi-tool hex key that was not able to handle the torque necessary for the task and snapped while the head stayed inside.
I tried using gravity, a magnet, shaking and all combined to make the head fall down, to no avail. I've no idea on how to proceed further and am really thinking of getting a new derailleur.


texts: Will the Shimano HG41 match nicely with a Shimano Claris derailleur?

texts:
I am almost buying a bike equipped with a Shimano Claris group, and I am particularly fond of big hills. So I found lying around my place a new cassette HG41, 11-34 teeth, which is allegedly for MTB. Will the big cog adapt ok with the short road derraileur? Both are 8 speed.

I know Shimano has some compatibility charts around, but I couldn't really figure it out by myself. Maybe something related to too much caffeine right now.


texts:
Is there something I can spray on my brake cables to keep them from freezing up in cold weather?

I want something preferably that will not attract dust.

Brakes froze when temperature was 20 degrees F.


texts:
Just bought a used shockwave sus:550 bike with grip shift shimano gears.
The grip shift won't move no matter how much force is applied. Also the chain skips as one rides despite a recent lube job. Any suggestions on how to solve this?


texts:
Check out the power curve at the bottom of the post, it's composed of two screen caps from the same ride, stacked on the same image:

Apparently on the ride in question the cyclist rode at:

291W for 12min 55s
270W for 9min 10s

But I would have though that if you rode for 291W for 12min 55s, you also rode at least 291W for 9min 10s ... right? ... ♂

What are these dips? How are we meant to interpret this data?

I would expect power curves to either be flat (usually a result of ERG mode on a trainer) or constantly falling as the time period increases.

I reached out to Strava and their facebook rep said it was 'complex' and to send in a query to the support email - they haven't replied.

I had a look here: What method or algorithm is used for computing Power Curve on Strava?

It's good info, but the example given there doesn't have a dip, and doesn't discuss it - but it does make make me think that the answer might just be what I'm trying to avoid suggesting...

Addressing some of the comments:

At a casual glance I'll agree that power curves do show power plotted against time, but don't be mistaken in to thinking that they show instantaneous power over time.

Power curves show the maximum power a rider rode for a duration (averaged via various means, some algorithms more clunky than others), and as has been confirmed to my satisfaction they should be a 'monotonically decreasing function of duration' - but they're not on Strava, (which prompted my original query...)

Here is a visual example of how power curves are different from power with respect to time:

Instantaneous power over time:

(This was a Zwift ramp test in ERG mode until failure when it slipped in to free ride)

Power Curve plot from the same data:

Note that:

They are under different sections in Strava
They don't look alike
The 418W at 1 min on the power curve correlates to the 1 minute duration that 418W was held (around the 21min 40s period seen in the instantaneous plot and not 1 minute in to the ride)
The power curve has a logarithmic time scale


texts: My bike is a pretty terrible mountain bike held together by duct tape and I just fixed an issue with the brakes rubbing on the wheel slowing it down. And now my gears stop working. No matter what I change the gear shift to, the chain stays on the 5th gear (second smallest). I was cycling the other day and manually moved the chain onto the 4th gear, and even though my shift was on 4, it moved itself back to 5. Any idea how to fix this? Cycling on only gear 5 is very tiring.


texts: What is this blue mesh tube thing in the Rema TT 06 patch kit used for?

texts:
I own an (old-ish) Rema TT 06 patch kit. The contents look like this:

Notice the blue tube-like thing under the left box. In the part list on the manufacturer's site, I couldn't find any mention of that thing (http://www.rematiptop.com/part.php?pid=56&cid=5&sid=4, which is also the source of the image).

Is is basically a short tube of mesh-like, flexible material. What is it used for?


texts: I noticed a wobble in my back wheel while commuting in this morning. Broken spoke. Is this a problem that I should take care of before my 7 mile commute home, or can I pick up a spoke and repair it at home?


texts: What is the maximum safe storage temperature for a bike?

texts: I like to keep my bike in the car on days I drive to work, in case I need it to get to a meeting in another building.  However, I'm concerned that it gets too hot some days.  Is there a temperature at which bike components might overheat or be damaged?


texts: How to tell if a hub uses sealed bearings or loose ones?

texts:
My rear hub is dead. Tt has tons of play and I'm planning to replace it with  a  new Shimano  one. Everyone suggests me to  get one  with sealed bearings,  how can I tell if a hub uses sealed or  loose bearings? For example I'm planning to buy this one:
Link to Shimano  hub

is there any naming scheme so I can tell by the  name?
where can I verify that?


texts:
I decided to buy a new freehub and replace it myself, as the one I had broke down (started spinning to both sides). However, I didn't realize the new freehub has sealed/cartridge bearings as opposed to the old one which had loose bearings... as I was doing this for the first time I didn't even notice.
What can I use instead of the old cone that used to secure the loose bearings?
On the other side I still have the loose bearings system. Will this work or can it cause any future troubles?


texts: What to pay attention to when buying a used race bike? - the one with thin tires :) Thanks for advice guys! I ask because I am a beginner in bikes, but I would love a faster bike. Now I have a very slow mountain bike, and mostly use it to travel from town to town.


texts: Got these on 17 days ago and probably done no more than 60 miles. The main commute is 6 miles. 4 of that is a steep downhill.


texts:
Just got a bike with discs (BB7).
The feel of the braking is so-so on the first ride (5km commute from LBS to home).
I think the cable for the rear needs a little tightening.

But even so, I don't feel the big change I had been advertised when moving from cantis.
I know I will get more reliability on the wet and mud but still...

So I was wondering, is there anything such as a break-in period for brakes?
Is there something specific I should/should not do?
Is there something specific I should/should not verify to find whether my set-up is right or not?


texts: Is the banjo bolt the same between the Shimano XTR and Shimano Saint rear brake caliper?

texts:
Earlier today, I went to install a brand new Shimano Saint caliper in place of an old XTR that's leaking from the pistons, only to find that Shimano doesn't include the banjo bolt...
Do the XTR and Saints use the same banjo bolt?
Is there anything else you need to do the swap that I might be missing?


texts: What do I need to look for when buying a new rear wheel?

texts:
This is my bike:

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/xtc-27dot5-2-2014

Stock rear wheel axle in the hub is broken. I couldn't find replacement axle so I need a new wheel.

I want to use my old disc brakes. Will certain wheels only accept certain disc brake sizes?
I want to use the old drive train / cassettes. Will certain drive trains / cassettes only fit on certain wheels?
I need a new quick release for my back wheel because the old one's grooves wore away. Will all quick release axles work for my bike? (ie. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/hope-qr-steel-skewers-rear/rp-prod31896)
Can I fit a different sized wheel on the back than in the front? Would that cause any problems?


texts:
I'm looking to replace my current drop bars. I like the width just fine and would like to get a new set that is the same width (or at least close to it).

How is the width measured? Is it the overall outer width? The width between the center of the bar ends? The width between the inner edges of the bar ends? The width of the flats up until the curve? Something completely different?


texts: How to secure a fully carbon (aero) bike when washing/repairing on a stand?

texts:
My bike is fully carbon (frame, seatpost, saddle etc...) and I clean it regularly. I have read/heard from multiple sources that you should not clamp carbon materials when using a bike stand. However, without clamping, the bike slides everywhere. In particular when I rest the bike on the bottom set of clamp teeth during a cleaning session. The bike is fully aero and I'm very conscious about clamping it too tightly.

I have seen this post relating to bike stands and carbon frames but it doesn't help me. I'm want to know how people with all-carbon aero bikes secure them when cleaning?

1) Are there any special clamps/stands out there that are made specifically to secure carbon bikes?

2) Has anyone got any home-made solutions to secure their carbon aero frames/seatposts?


texts: How can I check if my bike is safe for touring?

texts:
I have an old second-hand bike that I use daily for commute, and in a few weeks I want to take it on my first bike tour around Europe.

I'm a bit worried, since the bike is quite old (has some rust spots, a loose spoke or 2, etc.), that it might not be the safest thing to do. However it never had any problems while riding around the city, and unfortunately I don't really have money for a new bike or parts.

Are there some standard checks one can do to see if it's fit for touring? Are there any serious problems that I should be worried about?


texts:
I am looking for a new city/urban bike and thought that a gear hub would be a nice addition (before this I was exclusively using derailleur gears). To get started I was reading the wiki page on fork ends to learn about some simple facts and what to pay attention to (especially like how to adjust the hub properly).

I found an interesting bike but I simply cannot tell what kind of fork end this might be (it doesn't seem to have one?!):

It looks that one first has to add a fork end. Is this a good way - e.g. compared to a semi-horizontal dropout - to adjust the hub/chain combo?


texts: Will 27 x 1 1/4” tires be too wide for an old bike that came with 27 x 1 1/8” tires?

texts:
I am restoring an 1970s Schwinn bicycle. I bought a new wheel set but I have the old ones with tires for reference. It originally came with 27 x 1 1/8 tires and I’m wondering if 27 1 1/4 tires will be too wide and not leave enough clearance.
I can get 27 x 1 1/8 ones if necessary, I’m just seeing more options for 27 x 1 1/4 and wouldn’t mind a wider tire if it’s not a problem. Thanks for any advice!


texts: Busting on inflation - is the issue the tube or the tire?

texts: I have a mountain bike and just replaced the tires and inner tube. The tires recommend up to 65 psi. When we hit about 55... the tube popped. Is the issue likely the tube... or could the tire have an issue that caused the tube to pop on inflation?


texts: List of essential tools to maintain an Ortler Mainau bicycle

texts:
We have three Ortler Mainau bicycles in our family that I would like to maintain. We don't have a garage but only a smallish cellar, and I would like to work there (e.g. I cannot use toxic things there).

The maintenance tasks I would like to do in short term:
  - Adjust the breaks/gear/seat post/etc. as it is necessary.
  - Regularly clean the chains
  - Fix a flat tire

The tasks I would like to do medium term (if I need):
  - Fix a slightly warped and twisted wheel
  - Fix the lightting
  - Rewire the breaks/gears if it is necessery

I have no tools at all, so my question is that what tools I have to buy in order to be able to maintain those bikes in short term?

I live in Switzerland close to the Alps so the weather is quite wet (e.g. I assume that I need different oil for wet weather than for dry weather).

Thank you in advance!

(Updated according to the admin requirements)


texts: Is there any way to save disk brake pads once they've gotten even a little bit of mineral oil on them?

texts:
I did a frame swap recently and my front brakes are now screeching loud and not as powerful as they were on the other frame. This leads me to believe that I must have gotten some mineral oil or other contaminant on them during the frame swap process.

The problem is that the pads are expensive and they still have a lot of life left on them. But just wondering if it's a lost cause this point to try to clean or salvage them


texts: Are aerodynamic rims worth additional weight?

texts:
I was under the impression that reducing the weight of your wheels is important. However, I'm noticing that many of the extremely high-end aerodynamic rims are actually heavier than cheaper rims by the same manufacturer.

For example:

Easton's relatively entry-level EA90 SLX wheels clock in at 1398 grams and around $1000 for a pair, while their super high-end EC90 TKO are 1545 grams for twice the price.
Mavic's Kysrium Elite S wheels are 1520g and less than a third the price of their high-end Cosmic Carbone 80 wheels at 1640g.
Zipp's 30 Clincher cost only $850 for a pair at 1655g while their 808 Firecrest® Carbon Clinchers cost $3000 and weigh 1730g.

Obviously the prices seem to support the idea that aerodynamics matter more than a few hundred grams of weight, but at what point does the added weight offset the gain? Or is the importance of reducing rotational weight overstated?


texts: GPS with maps for touring / using an iPhone

texts:
We are going to do a bike tour through France and Spain with a friend at the end of the summer. I was wondering what is the best option for a gps. Ideally we want something with the ability to display maps. I know that sometimes it is possible to download some free ones off the internet (the ones they sell are really expensive!). Anyone has experience with this?

My budget is limited so I don't know if I can afford a Garmin 800 or even a 705.

The other priority is that it should have a more or less decent battery life. I personally prefer AA battery in case I cannot charge it somewhere.

By the way, has anyone used an iPhone for such a task? My friend has one. I can immediately think of a couple of drawbacks. First, the danger of breaking such an expensive gadget. Second, consuming all the battery very quickly.

I do mountaineering and trekking in the mountains as well so perhaps I wouldn't mind spending a bit more if I get something that I can later use on those trips as well.


texts:
I know you are not supposed to recommend any particular brand.

I saw a bike with some pretty neat rims. (The brand rhymes with Wreck)

They had far fewer spokes than most bikes.

Are they stronger and stretch less?

Can you buy just the rim for another brand of mountain bike.(the front rim)

I have 24" rims.

Thanks.


texts: How to access seat-post lever on the handlebar?

texts:
I would like to change the position of my seat-post lever but in order to do so, I have to untighten its screw.

The problem is that I can't manage to access the screw, due to the presence of the hard metal cable going to the lever: it's right over the screw!

Here is a picture:

So here is my question, what's the type and size of the screw? How to access it?


texts: I am a big guy who wants to buy a race bike

texts:
I am new to this site and I would really appreciate any thought on this.
I am 32 years old male. I used to be in good shape most of my life. my weight fluctuated between 180 to 220 lbs.
three years ago. I had bad right knee and foot injury, runner knee and PF, planter facii, in my foot. I stopped every thing all together and started gaining weight. I reached 235 ads, and decided again to get back to active life style. I bought my first bike, which was specialized diverge I believe. Guess what, I fell in love with cycling, after a few months I decided to buy my a good racing bike, but injuries hit hard this time in both knees. I had to stop cycling as the pain was bad, burning sensation during night. I was busy finishing my phd and stopped every thing all together. I gained weight, this time is 270 lbs. I started active style again and lost 10 lbs and feeling good. knees bothering me from time to time but looks like I know how to handle them.

I got a job and saved some money. The dream still in back of my mind, I want a good racing bike.
It happens I am visiting the states so I can get the bike I want, which is not easy in the country I am from and cost extras for shipping.
I am seriously considering Madone SLR 7, which is ulteagra di2 system.
the question is:
Am I being a child who wants something and keep begging for it here? should I wait until I look like those athletes, or go ahead and buy it?
if you recommend so, would it be good for average distance riding like 30 miles or so 3 times a week as for fun and exercise?

Also if there is any thought I would really appreciate it.
my height is 6 foot and 258 lbs.


texts:
Some bikes, e.g. Busettii Vortex use an external motor, while others (by the same manufacturer) use hub motors. Busettii claims that external motors have higher efficiency (http://www.biyadii.com/), yet their top-of-the-line Big 50 model uses a hub motor. Other Web sites say that hub motors are more efficient.

I'm confused. Do external motors really produce more torque using less electricity? If so, how? If the issue is sub-optimal RPM in hub motors, then why would moving the motor outside the hub help with that?  I am looking for some no-nonsense technical explanation of the pros and cons of each design.

Thanks!


texts: How to remove the visor of a POC Trabec helmet?

texts:
The title says it all. I feel like I'm missing something, but I can't find help anywhere on Google, and I don't want to break the visor.

Here's a link
http://www.pocsports.com/us/products/trabec/10501.html


texts: What are the effects of different types of rear shock installation on full-suspension bikes?

texts:
I've been looking at full-suspension mountain and trail bikes lately, and I've noticed that the rear shock can come in a few different configurations:

It can be installed roughly vertically, between the seatstay and the downtube. E.g. Norco Range A7.2.
It can be installed nearly horizontally, also between the seatstay and downtube. E.g. Diamondback Atroz Comp.
Finally, it can be installed between the seatstay and the downtube. E.g. Norco Revolver 9XX.

What are the effects of these different configurations, and why does it seem like that last configuration is so much more expensive (on average) than the other two?


texts: Why doesn't my suspension fork rebound after being compressed?

texts: I use a RockShox SID suspension. After using it for a while I noticed the suspension has not been rising back out on its own. I have to lift the front fork of the bike for the suspension to go back to its resting form. I would appreciate if anybody could tell me what's wrong with my suspension and how I could fix it. Thanks.


texts: Replacing a SRAM Force hydraulic caliper with a new one

texts: I'm replacing my SRAM Force hydraulic caliper with a new one, I've drained the old one so there's no fluid in it. When replacing the caliper with a new one how can I put fluid into it? Should I just do a classic bleed or are there special steps to follow for new caliper installation? thanks


texts: Do Left handed bikes feel different to ride?

texts: Want to buy a BMX bike but they only have left hand drive ones in stock. Does it feel the same as a right hand drive?


texts: Can if fit new 105 5700 cranks on my existing 5600BB?

texts: I am refreshing my drive train. I have been running a full 105 5600 set for a couple years. I have an ultegra cassette and chain ready to fit, and I am consdiering crankset/chainring options. Is the new 105 5700 hollow tech compatible with my 5600 Bottom Bracket?


texts:
I recently bought a second hand bike, that got through quite some repairs and testing at a nearby bike store. They fixed some issues and put the bike into cycling condition, as well as changing the tires.

After some travelling, I have noticed that on very bumpy roads the rear suspension starts making what i would label as "B-series movie bed suspension noise" (niieek, nieek, nieek), the spring seems to be "jumping" too much and provoking the scratchy sounds.

I have also noticed that the rear suspension has some kind of screw mechanism to strenghten or loosen the spring (see pic), and that it's halfway, but I have no idea how to touch it and I don't want to trouble the bike store again for such a simple thing.

I understand that what I should be looking for is to increase the strength / stiffness of the suspension, to reduce the scratching, at the (relaxing for my ears, worse for my own rear) cost of less shock absorption.


texts:
I have city bike with Sturmey-Archer X-FDD front hub with drum brake.

Last week, after cold and wet days (drizzle, 2 C), the temperature dropped below -10 C.
I store this bike outdoors, I ride it every day 10-30 km.
Because of u-lock malfunction it was grounded for 3 days. When I eventually managed to free it, I observed very poor front brake operation. I suppose it is  about 30% usual effectiveness.
I ruled out the cable - braking cord is moving back and forth with no problem.

Has something wrong happened to the brake linning? What could cause such behaviour?

Edit:
As I'm lazy person, I didn't want to disassembly the hub and see what's wrong.
I supposed there is some ice on the surface of the lining, but after few dozens of hard brakings thing went even worse, ie. brake was less and less effective.

What I eventually did was riding for some not so long distance, using brake when pedalling with mudulate force. After that brake suddenly gain it full effectiveness.

@Emyr is probably right. There sholud be a lot of ice. Long braking melted it and let the brake dry.


texts: How to minimize damage from pitted cones?

texts:
While working on a old 60's Raleigh I found that there is slight pitting on one of the cones on the front hub (rest of the hub is good).  Ideally I would replace the damaged part and move one, but spare parts for these bikes are becoming difficult to find.  While I did find a replacement this time, there may be a point that I will not.

So given that one can't fix this properly, what can be done to ensure that damage is minimized?

This will also cause my bearings to wear out faster, and rules of thumb to follow?

In my case these are the oil lubed hubs and I plan on sticking with that, but if grease would work better, then I'm ok with that too.

Here is all the damage the current cone has:


texts: Converting from square spline to external bearings, what do I need to know?

texts:
I need to replace the entire drivetrain on my circa 2000 MTB commuter. Quality groupsets all seem to use external bearings these days. Replacing my current cartridge bottom bracket for a modern external bearing BB is my main compatibility concern. What information do I need from my frame and a prospective groupset to determine if it will fit my bike?

Off the top of my head, I guess I need to know my frame's BB shell width and thread and the chainline. What else? Where do I find the corresponding info for the new parts, particularly Shimano? Anything I need to look out for?

Update:
The bike needs new a new bottom bracket, chainrings, chain, 8speed cassette and front derailleur. Replacing them individually costs almost as much as a complete modern groupset (which includes new levers, rear mech and two more gears).

Why not buy a new bike? Three reasons. One economic: the steel frame is sound, the wheels and brakes are new, and bikes of comparable quality are much more expensive than a new groupset. One philosophical: I don't like throwing things out while they still work. One emotional/irrational: I like my bike, it's been good to me, and I want to do right by it.


texts: Repeated rear flat on a Trek 4300 started this season only!

texts:
This season only started getting a lot of flats in my back tire (riding the same Trek 4300 mountain bike for past 6 years and never had this issue). In last 7 days had 3 flats - put new tube yesterday and had a flat today again! Using Lyzene pump to inflate to 40 psi. Inspected the tire and there is no evidence of any protrusions. The puncture in the tube is on the inside - a tiny slit. Inspected the rim as well and no evident sharps there - I have a double wall back wheel.Thinking maybe the tire (original since new) is worn out and is causing this problem.
Appreciate feedback.
Cheers!


texts: Any fix for a schrader valve that won't open?

texts:
I have the all too familiar problem of being unable to pump up my tyre :(

It's not a problem with the pump (because it works on the other wheel) so I guess there must be something wrong with the schrader valve. I've done all wiggly woggly poking efforts to get it to release air, tightening, untightening the pump head etc. to no avail (I just keep pressurising the pump instead of the tyre). However the valve doesn't "look" damaged (the pin is in place, straight, not obviously damaged).

Is there any other possible fix to this that I haven't tried? Some clever tip or trick? Or should I just give it up and buy a new inner tyre?


texts: Someone messed up by quick release on the front wheel, so the side that says open is pointing outward. I can't undo the quick release now and take out the front wheel.


texts: Is it possible to service Specialized Brain suspension systems at home?

texts:
I like to do all my own work on my bike, and with other forks and shocks I've had, I've been able to find the necessary service manuals and specialty tools to overhaul the systems myself at the end of the season. Now I have a Specialized Epic with front and rear Brain suspension. My local Specialized shop tells me that the only way to get the fork rebuilt is to have the shop send it to Specialized for their elite mechanics to service it.

Has anyone tried servicing these Brain systems on their on? Any resources to point to? Or is it just a hopeless endeavor and I'll forever be tied to swallowing my pride and paying for someone else to work on my bike?


texts:
On my bike the rear light is a LED integrated in the fender. The gap between the LED group and the tire is quite narrow. The make is the same as in the picture below.

From the last time I cycled onto snow (with a different bike), I remember that quite some dirty ice can accumulate between the fender and the tire.
Can the accumulated dirty ice permanently damage the integrated LED?


texts:
So far my only approach to buying a seat is "That looks like a good one, I'll buy it and hope it works for me."

That isn't very cost effective... I don't think the bike store will let me return it after I ride around on it for a few hours. Which means if I don't like a seat that I bought, I'd have to buy yet another one just to try it out.

What are some good guidelines for selecting a new bike seat that doesn't feel like I've been sitting on a block of wood? How do you select one that "fits" when trial-and-error isn't an option?

I own a mountain bike and enjoy trail riding, but these days I ride on pavement most of the time.


texts: shifting (hah!) from downtube to integrated shifters

texts:
My old racing bike has 1991-era Ultegra, but I have gradually accumulated a nearly complete set of Dura Ace 7402 (mostly new in box) and plan to upgrade the bike. 7402 was a transitional release and offered both downtube and integrated shifters; I have both. The bike is currently outfitted with downtube shifters. It is feasible to install integrated shifters on such a bike? What happens to holes and bosses for the old downtube shifters?

Generally, have people regretted making such changes to an old bike? Does anybody suggest I just stick with downtube levers?


texts: What is the cause of my fork wobbling when applying the front brake?

texts: When I apply the front brake of my bike it feels like the connection between the fork and the frame is loose and there is a one time movement. It happens every time I brake. The bike is new but it was bought in a sale and so it might be that it was not fully assembled... Thanks!


texts:
Not a product rec question, I mostly need to know the way of selecting the correct hubs for me.

I've got a GT Avalanche 9R expert and I'm not happy with it's hubs.

I use this bike only for xcm and other off-road riding - as I understand I need to have a hub with industrial bearings (not sure if it's the correct word) - right? What difference makes the number of them? (Some have 2, some 4)
(A bit more specific one) That's what I've found in specs:

Should I look only for QR models of I can use 10mm through axle?

Now I have a center-lock rotor mount. Is it interchangeable with 6-bolt?


texts: Would like to custom-build a bike but I'm not sure on what parts to buy

texts:
Currently I have a 2011 Trek 3700 (no disc brakes) and just this year have gotten into riding mountain bike trails and would like to have a bike better suited for doing that.

I'd like to keep the budget under $1000 (using Trek Mamba as a target) but when I'm looking for parts online, I seem to come across the most expensive options for each part. I'm a fan of Shimano but willing to use other brands if the price is less but the products are still comparable to one another.

As for specifics for what I'm going to be using it on, it'll be public mountain bike trails (off-road, of course) so nothing too demanding but still find a need for disc brakes and given my height, 6'6" roughly, a 29er seems to be the better option and would prefer a hardtail.

Unless a budget of $1000 is just unreasonable for a DIY....

Thanks in advance!


texts: Ebike brake lever cutoff switch / interrupt switch : How does it work?

texts:
When pressing the brake lever on my ebike the bldc motor controller (aka ebike controller) 'cuts power' to the motor until the brake lever is released again/sensor is deactivated. I would love to know how that works/what happens.

I am wondering what causes the power to be 'cut off' when the sensor is triggered by pressing the brake lever.
My theory is that the power (5v +) to the throttle and pedal assist sensor are cut off when one of the brake sensors is activated, this in turn causes the user to be unable to 'apply throttle' .

Perhaps my theory is way off, do any of you know how this works? Does it differ per case/controller ? Or is the method (of cutting off the power when one of the brake sensors is activated) quite universal ?

The controller I'm using: https://a.aliexpress.com/e1R175D8X

My battery: 20s 72v 10parallel

Thank you very much for any input, it is greatly appreciated!


texts: Changing from Ultegra 6800 crank to r8000 dual power meter

texts: I currently have a shimano ultegra 6800 crank set on my 2014 trek speed concept 7.0. I want to install a dual side power meter and can only find the r8000 dual side power meter setup. Will the r8000 work on the bike I’m riding?


texts: I am a newbie and this is probably a simple question. I have a new Trek Domane 2. It is the 2020 model. From what I can tell on the Trek website, it has a Shimano Claris R2000, 8 speed shifter. Based on the back tire (where there are 8 gears) I think that is correct. In the winter I want to be able to ride the bike on my wahoo kicker. When I went to the bike store the only cassette they had was the Shimano CS5700 11-25T which is has 10 gears. I've adjusted the tension on the derailleur, but that doesn't seem to do anything. The 4 big gears and the small one seem to work, but not the other ones. What do I need to do to fix this?


texts: I need to know what kind of spokes to buy

texts: I have a Trek 7500FX with Bontrager race lite 700x32 tires. I have broken spokes, I no longer have the book what size spokes do I need?


texts: Should disc brake rotors be removed when packing bike for travel?

texts:
I've been looking at a few tutorials on packing a bike to take it on a plane, and most of them make no mention of disc brakes. One did specifically mention disc brakes, and recommended taking the rotors off and sandwiching them between two small sheets of plywood to stop them getting bent or warped.

Any thoughts on this?

Can you just put them back on with the allen key bolts that attach them? Or do you need special alignment tools and a torque wrench?


texts: Claud Butler Tandem - add a front derailleur?

texts:
I'm in the process of stripping a SWB Claud Butler tandem so I can get it repainted. There are a couple of things I need help with....

a) Can you fit a front mech to the bike, and if so, are there any "gotchas" to avoid, or limits as to chainring size ? I've currently got a 9-speed cassette with long cage mech on the back, and we'd like the bike to be 18-speed if possible....

b) What size is the eccentric cam for front chainset ? Current one is looking like it's seen some (ab)use over the years, so may need replacing. Is there a standard size for these ?

BTW, I'm trying to get it nice and tidy for racing... well it IS what it was designed for...

=:~)


texts: How much runout is acceptable in a disc brake rotor?

texts: I'm trying to sort out pad dragging / noises in Avid BB-7 mechanical disc brakes and I'm wondering how much runout in the rotor is acceptable? Right now I have about 0.05 mm (measured with a Park DT-3i).


texts: compatibility for a new cassette and chain

texts:
My cassette and chain have worn so I need replacements, My cassette is a 10 speed 12-30 and it says on it shimano hyperglide cs 4600 - I have struggled to find this and I don't think they make it any more, but I don't know of one that will fit, and my second problem is how do I know what chain to get it to match my new cassette, what matters?

Ok thanks for the replies, I am not too bothered about the ratios a 12-28 or something would do me fine.
I did a bit of looking up on what you said and I found this http://wiggle.com/shimano-tiagra-hg500-10-speed-cassette-1  I don't know whether it would work, what do you think?
And any shimano 10 speed chain you say will work?


texts: What variables are considered when determining wheel size and how do they affect these variables?

texts:
What variables are considered when determining wheel size from a theoratical perspective and how do they affect these variables?

I noticed that city bikes tend to have smaller wheel sizes, whereas sometimes I see very large mountainbike wheels.


texts: What is a good way to weatherproof a bike outside

texts: So I've been going to college over in Michigan for the past few months, and I've always been worried about the condition of my bike. Back at home, I used to keep it in a shed to protect it from the elements. But now that I live in a dorm, my only option is to keep it outside on a bike rack; and it's already showing signs of rust. I tried bringing it into my room before, but space is VERY limited and I still ride very often between classes and on long trips. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could protect my bike from the harsh weather outside?


texts: QUARQ DFour installation on Shimano bike

texts: I'd like to replace my Ultegra 6800 crankset with QUARQ DFour powermeter. But I don't know how to choose between BB30 and GXP versions. I have Shimano Pressfit SM-BB92-41B bottom bracket. Do I need to replace my bottom bracket or use some adapters?


texts:
I have a bike that is almost two years old. It still has the original brakes (side pull caliper brakes), which seem to still be functional. However, they are worn and I am going to be doing a lot of biking out of town during the next two weeks.

I think I know how to replace my brake pads, but I don't know if they still have plenty of life left or are about to go. What should I look for? How can I tell when they need to be replaced?


texts: Shimano Sora vs higher range brake pull ratio

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I've just upgraded my commuter bike (old Trek 370) to the replaced components from my main road bike (originally 2009 specialized allez - new head and handle) and found the brake calipers aren't long enough (similar to this). They are unbranded calipers anyway so I'm looking to upgrade them.

Looking at these long reach calipers I've found they state

  Must be used in conjunction with ST-4600, ST-4603, ST-5700, ST-5703, - ST-6700 or ST-7900 STIs for correct leverage ratio

As far as I can see these are Tiagra and above. I'm not sure which the Allez's shifters were (ST-3500?). What difference is there in lever ratio? I thought all shimano shifters were compatible and can't find any more details about compatibility.

Which calipers can I look at to work with my shifters?


texts:
I'm interested in purchasing a bike, however due to my location can't get into a bike shop, so will need to order it online.

The 2009 GT 2.0 Transeo I am interested in does not explicitly say it has v-brakes. I know it is not the disk version though.

The 2010 GT 2.0 Transeo mentions it has v-brakes.

Is the v-brake a fairly recent improvement in rim brakes as recent as 2010?
I know it is common for people to assume disk brakes are better. But I'm trying to bring down the price of my purchase, and do not intend to go cycling on rough mountain paths, or do too much wet/muddy condition cycling. Which is better in your opinion for my usage?

Thanks in advance.


texts: full suspension whole/frame only mountain bike box dimensions

texts: i am planning to buy a full suspension whole or frame only mountain bike (commencal meta am v4.2). what boggles me is the dimensions of the box when it is shipped because the shipping price is really expensive.. I need the size in Length, width and height. Thanks!


texts: I've got an FSA Gossamer pro MegaExo compact crank set.  Lately, while tightening the bolts on the crank spider, it cracked (see picture).  I know FSA has recalled the left crank because it turned out to crack for the same reason.  Has anyone had the same problem with his right crank?  Does FSA sell spare parts?


texts: for a single-speed conversion, is it always necesary to change bottom bracket?

texts:
I want to convert my old raleigh, which has 3 chainrings on the front, into a single-speed. Do I have to replace the bottom bracket? I keep hearing conflicting things.
Thankyou.


texts: Are there any permanent solutions for holes smaller than 1cm on outer tyre?

texts: My road bike tire is damaged because of some biketrap I fell into. After a month I got a flat while riding. I found this hole at the damaged area while repairing the puncture on inner tube. After pumping some air the inner tube is popped out from this hole. I put folded piece of paper inside to prevent another flat until I get home but I dont think that will hang on a bit more.  Any longtime solution to last it longer would be helpful.


texts: how much of a difference does bike weight make when trying to maximize the bike's top speed?

texts:
Today I was at a bike shop looking at single speed bikes. I rode one, but didn't buy it because I like to bike fast, and this bike must have weighed 2x more than my aluminum road bike (the bike was steel).

The store owner told me that the bike weight will not have as great of an effect on my top speed as many other things both on the bike and things I could change about how I ride.

Is he right or wrong? Does bike weight make a big difference or is it just very good marketing?


texts: Need help with picking right shoes for riding my new bike

texts:
I haven't been on a bike since I was a child.  I have had had weight-loss surgery due to being extremely over weight.

I now have a bike but my feet keep sliding off the pedals or just don't feel secure so I've been looking into the different types of shoes.

I have a basic mountain bike I can't afford to buy shoes plus new pedals so my questions is what are the best affordable shoes to wear on normal pedals so I don't keep losing my footing?


texts:
I work for a bicycle tour operator in Cambodia. We run daily tours on mostly paved roads. I'm looking to purchase new crank sets for ten bikes but I'm having trouble determining if any of the models are worth additional investment. We don't care about weight, just durability. The tour route is essentially flat. We have a tight budget so I don't want to invest additional money if it's not going to pay off over time.

The specific options I'm considering are Shimano FC-M171, FC-M371 and FC-M361 for $17, $30 and $40, respectively. What should I take into consideration when deciding which ones to buy?


texts: How can I cycle in winter while not being able to change work clothes?

texts:
I started recently to bike to work, where we have a shower and I can change clothes. However recently I also started attending an evening course, where there is no place to change.

So when I commute to work, it's easy. At home I wear my warm cycling clothes and then at work I switch to light comfort ones.

However the problem happens when I want to go to the evening course. Since it's pretty warm at the classroom then I can't wear my warm cycling clothes and go to the course and stay with them for 2 hours. And since there is no place to change, then I can't change there to be able to return home from the course.

Any ideas on how to solve this? or any clothing alternatives/ideas?

My commute is pretty long. From the course to home is about 18KM.

Edit: the temperature in winter here gets easily below 0, and the worst is -18 to -20.


texts:
I'm thinking about upgrading my bike Cube Aim 29 2013.
Current configuration described here.
The bike is completely ok for short rides, but for longer rides doesn't feel comfortable. So I'm going to change saddle and pedals, but I also want to make it more suitable for off-road rides.

I'm considering Shimano components. Is it reasonable to buy something like XT M785 10 Speed Double Groupset? Or SLX level components would be enough?

Regarding the frame - it is in good condition and Cube uses the same frame for their higher-end hard-tail bikes.


texts:
I own a 2018 Cannondale SuperSix EVO Ultegra. When I bought the bike I upgraded the crank set to the Cannondale Spider 52/36. I recently decided to go to SRAM Res eTap. During my install the FD is at the top end of the braze-on and it’s hitting the big chainring.
Is my best bet ordering a new set of chainrings at 50/34? Or is this bike not compatible?


texts: Effect of raising handlebars on a fat bike

texts:
I am currently demoing a 2019 Cannondale Fat Caad 2.  Never owned a fat bike before.  This bike is relatively light and they are on clearance right now at a local bike shop that I ride with and do business with.

The problem I am running into (and it seems to be a common complaint of this particular model) is that the front is too low.  The bike shop owner says I can raise the handlebars using a different stem and handlebars. I get that.  I've done it with my Fuji Jari and my cheap mountain bike.

But I think it would need to be a bit more extreme with this bike, and so I'd like to understand the effect from a riding perspective that this will cause.  I'm not a bike geometry expert, but I get some of the general idea.

I'll mostly be using this bike for 2 things:  Winter snow riding (not on extreme terrain) and all season all-terrain riding (not on extreme terrain).  I'm not big on technical stuff, but I like to explore and ride a bike in all weather and wherever I can.

I generally keep my center of gravity over the pedals (light on the hands) and spend a decent amount of time out of the saddle.

So my question boils down to: What effect will raising the handlebars have on how the bike will handle, and ultimately, is this a legit thing for me to do for my riding style or would I be better off looking into a different fat bike with a different geometry?


texts: What could cause a screeching noise when going downhill without brakes?

texts: Going downhill on my road bike with aero bars without applying brakes results in a terrible screeching coming from what seems to be the front wheel. Are the bearings going out?


texts: How to get grease out of my brake rotor holes

texts: I got an as-is bike used that came with disc brakes. Both brakes squealed so I cleaned both rotors and both sets of pads. That fixed the back one but not the front one. I removed the pads and noticed that there is something that looks like grease in the holes of my front rotor. I used a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to clean both the pads and rotor and that quiets it down for a short time, until the grease re distributes over the rotor surface.


texts: Can I use normal grease for a car on the surface of carbon bike?

texts:
Helo Guys,

I want to know your experience about carbon material and grease
Can I use normal grease with carbon ?
I want to put grease onto fork and stem....

Or WD-40 or silicone penetrant would be ok ?
Thank you....

Can I use this one ?


texts: Biopace chain rings and front deraileur rub

texts:
Turns out my front chain rings are biopace, after I thought they had disappeared!

I've got a problem with the chain rubbing the front deraileur at a certain point every rotation. I only get this in the highest gear on the inner ring and it happens from about the 4th gear when on the outer ring. getting gradually worse when changing up to the highest gear.

Not sure if it's a trim or height problem or both :S

when in the small inner ring height should not be a problem.

But it could be height issue when on the highest gears on the outer ring.

Setup

Dura ace deraileur front and back
105 cranks and chain ring
unknown back sprocket set


texts: Rear rotor drag when I shift my weight left

texts: I have a stock Surly Straggler which comes with Avid BB-7 Road mechanical disc brakes. When I shift my weight to the left on the bike (left crank down, all weight on left foot), the rear brake makes a noise s...s...s...s. When I shift my weight to the right, the noise disappears. So, when it makes a s...s...s...s does that mean that the rotor isn't true? When I shift my weight, does that somehow tilt the wheel a bit?


texts:
When going for a day ride, climb a hill, have a beer and a sandwich and then shread on the familiar path down - all is well and fun.

However, if I go on a after-work-and-sleep-in-sleeping-bag ride or a multi-day ride, it is common to begin the day with a rough descent. I have been sleeping on hard ground, my joints have been immobilized for 8 hours and on top of that it's the coldest part of the day.

In such a situation, what would be a good sub-five minutes workout to prepare my body for extended descent? I am also recovering from right shoulder and right knee trauma.


texts: Problem with chain skipping without trying to shift (even with new chain and gears)

texts:
I have a mountain bike where the chain intermittently skips when put under load on the middle (and very rarely on the smallest) chain ring. It is not related to shifting.

I've taken several steps to correct it including:

calibrated front and back gear shifters
replaced the chain
replaced the rear gears
replaced the middle gear at the pedals (which was the most affected)

To my great frustration the problem is still there! Could this be because of the derailer? The chain seems tight enough. Help from any gurus out there would be greatly appreciated.

Update: I've tried fiddling with the back screw on the back-derrailer (not the L/H-screws) in the hope that it was a chain tension issue but it did not help. I've also checked the chain for stiff links but could not find any. I am not able to reproduce it when not riding the bike so I am not certain where and how the chain skips. I am at my wits end and planning to bring it to a different repair shop with a sensai mechanic so hopefully he will be able to sort it out.

Update 2: Solved. See below.


texts: Are CO₂ tire cartridges reusable for multiple tires?

texts:
I need to inflate near flat tires for four bikes. This looks already laborious, so I started to think about CO2 cartridges I have seen in the bike shop. While looks somewhat expensive, would be OK if more than one tire could be inflated with the same cartridge.

Can a single cartridge be used to inflate more than one tire, assuming that all bikes are standing nearby? How many regular (road, not racing) tires could it inflate from close to flat condition?


texts:
I'm upgrading my road touring bike, currently with a 3x8 drivetrain and bar-end friction shifters. I'm going for integrated brake/shift levers, and wondering about the difference between the Claris ST-2400 and Sora ST-3500 STI shifters.

I already know that the Claris is 3x8 and the Sora 3x9. Upgrading to a 9-speed cassette and chain should be no problem (chain rings are already 9-speed compatible). I'd choose the same cassette range for either, and I don't think having the extra intermediate gear would matter much to me.

My question is: are the Sora shifters better (in terms of materials, reliability, smoothness, accuracy, or whatever) than the Claris? It's a 50-ish dollar difference, so that's not that big a deal. Anything else I might've missed? I'm not really interested in going to a 10 (or more) speed rear, so the higher end mechanisms are out.


texts: Shimano 105 FC-5501 chainrings replacement

texts: I have road bike with old 105 5500 2x9 groupset. My crankset chainrings worn out from wear and need to be changed. My crankset is 105 FC-5501 52/39 Octalink 130 BCD. I looked for 5500 series chainrings in e-shops, but I didn't find anything for this old model except e-bay where I can get all crankset with crank arms. Could you advise which ones of chainrings would be appropriate with FC-5501? Can I use for example a Shimano 105 5700 10 speed 130 BCD chainrings on my crankset?


texts: Which usually wears faster - wheel rims or brake blocks?

texts:
I was wondering which you'd expect to wear faster: wheel rims or brake blocks.

The reason I ask is that my mileage has shot up the last couple of years so I'm seeing a lot of wear on things I never knew could wear.

I'm told that chain, cassette and front chain rings should generally be replaced together. As per comments and answers I won't be using that cycle shop again.  Luckily it didn't cost me too much cash.

I was wondering if the same applied wheel rims or if or if wheel rims are expected to last much longer than brake blocks?

Edit

So here's what prompted the question...  I have some "Mavic Open Pro" rims bought two years ago.  I've burned through less than 2 sets of brake blocks since.  This last month I've started hearing about rims wearing and the existence of markers.  Here's where I get stuck.  I can't find any markers.

So although the above seems a stupid question I'm trying to figure out if it ever had them?  I'm presuming not because I would have thought I'd notice and I shouldn't have worn them smooth yet judging from comments.  I'm also trying to figure out if I don't have them what the sign would be if they need replacing.

By the sound of it I wont need to worry for a while, I've got a few brake pad changes left in them yet... but for piece of mind I wonder if there's a way to know if they're out of tolerance without markers?


texts: My freewheel stopped working. I can still pedal forward, but not backward. What's wrong with it?


texts: Upgrade Peugeot 5-speed to indexed flat bar shifters

texts:
My girlfriend got a vintage Peugeot with original 5-speed cassette (2 front gears) and friction stem-shifters (with a flat bar). She's struggling with the shifting. I'm considering the following upgrades:

Replace the stem shifters with 5-speed twist shifters. Would I need to also replace the rear derailer in that case?
Replace only the rear derailer (and maybe the cables) and see if that makes it easy enough for her to learn friction shifting.
Alternatively, I could go with new 6-speed parts: shifter and derailer. But would that mess up the shifting since the cassette is still 5-speed?
Replace the front derailer as well, but not the front shifters. So I'd have twist (indexed) rear shifters and stem (friction) front shifters. Is there any reason that wouldn't work?

Which of these would you recommend? Are there any important things I should be aware of/look out  for (I've not done a bike project like this before)?


texts: How do I make my rim brakes stop squealing?

texts:
My rear rim brakes are squeaking loudly. I don't know what the problem is, but I am sure it has nothing to do with rain because it happens all the time even if it is dry.

Anybody have an idea what could be problem and how to solve it? It makes the rear brakes kind of useless, because if I use them I will scare the people or drivers around me.


texts: Why do my knees hurt when I use a trainer?

texts:
Whenever I use my CycleOps magnetic trainer (like the one pictured below) my knees always end up hurting.

I don't have this problem when riding out on the road. My cadence is the same for the most part. I usually keep it on a medium resistance and the bike is level. The trainer itself rides really smooth and feels pretty similar to riding on flat ground.

Is there a reason why the trainer would cause pain in my knees?


texts: How do to determine if an adapter is needed for disc brakes and rotors?

texts:
I have an old older (not too old) bike that already has disc brakes, but I would like to replace them with a totally new set and new rotors.

How can I determine if a given replacement (caliper and rotor) is plausible my bike, and if so if an adapter will be needed or not, and if it is, what to get?

For the particulars, I have a 2000 GT Zaskar and one brake setup I am considering for example Hope v4 with 203mm front rotors and 183mm rear and would like to know if this would even fit.

![enter image description here][5]


texts: Seat Post Binder - Fuji CF1 - circa 2008

texts:
I'm looking for a replacement seat binder for a 2008 Fuji Aloha CF1 - The one I had cracked and will no longer work.

I have contacted Fuji but they politely laughed at us!

Most shops looked through their "junk" cabinets with no luck.

What can I do to replace the seat clamp?

Here is the photo of the seat clamp.


texts: What headsets can be used to replace the FSA No.57/No.61BP headset?

texts:
I managed to damage the headset on my Merida Speeder 300. In particular, I warped the bottom bearing, and I need a replacement. Normally, this would be a simple matter of looking up the specifications of the model in question, except the FSA website doesn't list a product numbered 61BP or 57/61BP.

I took a caliper and measured some of the parts. The steerer measured 28.4mm at the top, and flared to 39.8mm at the crown. I probably messed up the measurements, and that steerer is a 1-1/8"-1.5". The cups are semi-integrated, the top one measured 40.1 mm on the inside, and 32.4mm inside the lip. The bottom one was 47 and 41 mm on the same. Of course, I couldn't get at the tube because the cups were in the way, and my handling of the caliper is suspect..

So, what is this product and what are the critical measurements of it, with an eye to getting a replacement.


texts: Advice for resuming riding after illness?

texts:
Just got a rude reminder a few weeks ago that I'm middle-aged (let's call it a cardiovascular accident), and I'll probably be a while recovering fitness. I've signed up for a rehab program at the hospital, and I plan to ask their advice about when I should get back on a bike and how hard I can push...

... But it occurs to me that there may be some optimal program for recovering/developing conditioning as a bike rider, and I'm wondering if there is general advice I should keep in mind.

(I'm much more a touring than racing rider, if that shifts the emphasis. I do have a static stand, so "riding" in air conditioning is not impossible, just not especially interesting.)


texts: What are the benefits of going from 25mm to 28mm tire?

texts: I went from a 23mm to 25mm tires on my '07 Tarmac Expert. The change was a blessing as I was able to do everything with more confidence. A part of it was for going from Gatorskins to Grand Prix 4000s II. Now that my Grand Prix are about to be worn out, I'm considering to going to 28mm versions. I know that my frame and brake callipers can clear the tire, however I'm not sure if I will gain any major benefits. I do a lot of climbin and try to stay off the flats.


texts:
I recently bought a Tandem from the 90's and now trying to adjust the derailleurs. But, no matter what I do, I don't manage to properly set up the 3-way front derailleur. It either

properly shifts from lowest to 2nd or
properly shifts from 2nd to highest.

I noticed that the crank and chainwheels don't seem to fit to the rest. The front/rear rear-derailleur and the captain crankset are a black and Shimano Deore LX FC-M563 to my best guess, while the stroker crankset is silver and some "Shimano" which I cannot further specify.

I am therefore wondering if that could be the reason for the derailleur not working properly. Or should one-shimano-fit-all, no matter which model?

I also noticed that the chainwheels seem to be not equally spaced. It's ~8mm from lowest to 2nd and ~5mm from 2nd to highest. As far as I can tell, on all my other bikes the spacing is equal and ~5mm.
Are there such 'weird' cranksets or has it just been incorrectly assembled? i.e. could I possibly fix my problem by exchanging some spacers instead of buying a new crankset?


texts: Adaptive seats because of Total Knee Replacement

texts:
After TKR (total knee replacement) have a difficult time in foot placement on pedal, my right foot falls in middle due to range of motion? Any ideas or suggestions?

I thought if I found a seat that sat back, it would allow for right foot to hit at ball!


texts: How do I reduce slack in the chain of a single-speed bicycle?

texts: I have a single speed bicycle that has some slack in the chain and threatens to come off.  How can I reduce this slack?


texts: I need to replace my cassette (Shimano HG30 8speed 11-32) and chain (KMC Z7) that is currently on my bike (pinnacle Aura), however these parts are now discontiuned and I need to find the replacments. I have been recommended the HG51 cassette but don't know which chain to get.  Can anyone help?


texts:
this is my diy electric bike, but in the latest headset servicing (I had to change the seal of the top bearing), I noticed that I've a broken part on the top of the "bearing crown race stays".

The funny thing is that I found this picture of 2 years ago where the damage was already there, but since I was a noob about bike maintenance (and still I'm, but a bit less), I ignored that. The picture was made even before the conversion.

I did 5000km since then, and I didn't noticed any play in the headset, but is it safe to ride? What I should do to mitigate/fix this? Can this broke catastrophically someday? the bike is 10 years old.

This is the bearing crown race that goes on the bottom of the fork, and I can slide with my fingers easily, but still no play in there, as far as I can feel. This would need a replacement as well but I cannot find in the internet, this is a weird 1 1/8 threaded fork.


texts: Can Tacx Flow head unit work with old (2002) Basic frame/brake?

texts: I want to replace a lost head unit/computer on my old Tacx Basic from 2002, does anybody know if modern Flow head unit will work with this old frame/load generator? I think such was an upgrade path, once, but still - the frame is really old (but in good working condition).


texts: Is a Racing-Bike making creaking noises a sign of equipment damage?

texts:
Last Sunday I noticed that my bike makes creaking noises (similar the hull of a ship, but on bicycle scale - imagine a rat making the sound "creak"). It seems to me that this is related to stressing the bike frame, but I can't generate the creaking in a ready manner, and sometimes it goes away. It also isn't connected to pedaling or bike movement. I can't pin-point a source(like a screw or bolt, or shaft).
It sometimes creaks when I just get on it, then I can ride 10 minutes without a sound.
Still, this is a new sound to me, and I've and I wouldn't want something in my frame to crack when I'm doing 50 down hill and going into a curve.
I've gained 6kg since I bought the bike, might the extra weight be a problem?

Should I worry, or has someone experienced something similar before?


texts: Making my children's bike trailer more comfortable

texts:
I'd like to know what I can do to increase the comfort and enjoyment of my two toddlers while riding in the bike trailer, typically for short to medium distances (3-4 miles most often, around a half hour or so).

I have an older model Schwinn two-kid bike trailer, the kind with no proper seat bottom (sling-style).  I have a 3 year old and a 1.5 year old child, and neither really cares for riding in the trailer - but particularly the younger one, who ends up squished.

I managed to fashion a seat out of a piece of wood just the right length to fit on the crossbars, which helped a lot on the squishing, but I'm curious what else I can do safely to increase the comfort of the children.  The trailer specifically says not to use a carseat, and I don't think I could fit two in anyway (or one plus fit the older guy).


texts:
I have a BH road bike and it has some movement with the tube that connects to the fork.
I took it to a bike shop for a tuneup. When I picked it up the guy mentioned the issue. He said he tightened something (I forgot what it was) but it didn't fix it. He then suggested that I needed to change a bearing (or something) inside the frame (where it's circled). The guy said that it may crack the frame since I'm riding and the tube is moving around.
It moves very little from side-to-side, and I don't actually feel it. But it got me a little worried after he said that it could crack.
Here's a picture of the small gap: in the left I'm pushing the handlebar towards the front:

Is this something that can be fixed?


texts:
As I happen to be endowed with the honor to use a Specialized S works road bike that was lying in a friend's basement, I decided to go for a ride until swift realization of the gears being  electronic and thus not powered.
There seems to be a place to perhaps plug a battery where a bottle holder is supposed to be, perhaps one is lying around where I got the bike from.
Now, I know nothing of such advanced bicycles and tend to see how certain advancements in terms of progress may seem immediately desirable but are not so convenient as I literally can't go for a ride without electricity.
I wished to know if any of you had any further insights on this matter that I could gratefully benefit from.
May you be well!
EDIT : Thank you everyone for your helpful guidance, an avid cyclist told me which battery was fitting and I found it, Dura-ace Di2 !


texts: Derailleur/Gears Locks Up/ Freezes Up/Stalls

texts:
Hey guys I have a specialized mtb with the old oval chainrings and lately it's been locking up. When I start pedalling "hard" or faster the crank stops turning and then jumps forward a bit and generally is not very pleasant. Please note the wheels keep turning fine. Has anyone had this problem before? It's happened to me on another, thankfully cheaper, bike that was stolen a year before I built my fixie (which gives me no such problems) a couple years ago.

To recap, the pedals stop turning and then jump forward, stalling in a way, when I start to pedal harder, like up a hill or just on flat but faster. How do I fix this?

Thanks for any help! I really love this bike!