texts: Are front and rear tires on BMX bikes interchangeable?

texts: what is the difference between a front tyre and a back tire and would it matter if they was both front tyres or both back tyres on a BMX bike?


texts:
As a child I had solid rubber inner tubes in my bike. They were a pain to get on but after I never had a flat again!

Now I've recently started biking again and have had two flats in two days, each resulting in a three-mile walk back home. I've been searching for solid rubber tubes for a few hours now, but have only found them at wal*mart, and they don't have the correct size? (700x38c)

Why have they disappeared? I thought they were a fantastic product . . .


texts:
I have a Gates carbon belt drive on a NuVinci hub.

I haven't bothered with the the whole tensioning using the app and everything, but I have a set-up where it is perfectly quiet and I've never had it skip.  But the belt feels quite loose.

My question is whether there is any benefit to higher belt tension apart from preventing skipping?  It seems the belt does not stretch and too high a tension causes all sorts of problems like bearing strain, noises etc.

So is the ideal tension then the tension that's just high enough to prevent skipping but no higher?  Or is there some benefit I can't think of tensioning past that point which is what the app/tools etc. attempt to do?

Thanks in advance!


texts:
Im repairing a friends bike and changing the crank. I have removed it and want to find a replacement

The removed item is Model: BB-06-PSPL - 113/68
Im wondering if there is a replacement Shimano model? or an upgraded part available as the bike is quite old.?

His bike is running Shimano Tiagra triple crank 9 speed. I am wondering if I could change the crank over to shimano aswell or would this not be possible due to the fittings in the crank housing.?

Thanks for you time in advanced

RD


texts: How to add rear rack to a full suspension bike?

texts:
I'd like to carry 20 - 40 pounds or so in panniers on my rear rack.
I've carried that much on my hard tail so it's not a problem for the biking itself.

The cantilevered rack style that is supported only on the seatpost is a non starter. I have a carbon fiber seat post. It can't hold more than 10 pounds (even that worries me)


texts: Adjustable stem busted - Do I need to replace the whole stem?

texts:
Today on my 2018 Pegasus Solero the adjustable stem broke. Probably due to overtightening of the righthand screw the nut at the left side of the stem tore free (see images).

The question is, whether I need to replace the whole stem or if there's a chance to buy only the nut somewhere. Also, how can I prevent this from happening again?


texts: Suggestion for rigid fork to replace 100mm-travel RST suspension fork on 26" Trek 4300 MTB?

texts: I have a 2008 Trek 4300 MTB (v-brake version) and am looking to replace the RST 100mm suspension fork with a rigid fork, but am having trouble finding something suitable.  I measured the fork length to be roughly 19 3/8" (~492mm).  All the rigid forks I've found (Surly 1x1, Sunlite) seem to not quite have the a long enough fork length.  I'm hoping someone here might have a suggestions.  Thanks.


texts: Bike feels like it is getting stuck when I start pedaling or increase pressure as I go up hills

texts: My bike feels like it is getting stuck when I start pedaling or increase pressure as I go up hills. Of course, I checked to see if the brakes were rubbing but they are completely free of the wheel. When I try to start riding after a stop I get the rubbing noise and feeling of tremendous friction but once I reach a constant speed it disappears. It will reappear as I speed up quickly or climb a serious hill.


texts: Sharing bike trainer between 11spd and 8spd bikes

texts:
I have an 11spd 11-30 cassette both in my bike and in my direct bike trainer.
My girlfriend recently purchased a road bike with an 8spd 11-34 cassette. What are our options for sharing the trainer? Our bike sizes are fairly different (54cm vs 44cm).

(I guess this is "easy" but not sure if practical): Swap the trainer cassettes every time: I put on the 11spd and use it, she takes it off and puts the 8spd cassette before using the trainer.
Keep the 8spd on the trainer. Will the 11spd bike work with the 8spd trainer? Maybe in ERG mode with no shifting?

What other options would you recommend?


texts: I have Bell air glide 950 pump. I can't push down as the air is being blocked somewhere. I removed the tube/pipe that connects to the Schrader/Pestra valves. If I open the screw behind the pump, air comes out from there.


texts: Cannondale Synapse 105 chain dropping on the last gear

texts:
I just bought a new Cannondale Synapse Carbon Disc SE 105 and I am having trouble with the chain dropping on gear 50-11.

If I shift on the front chain ring to the biggest ring (50t) and in the rear to the smallest one (11t), the chain drops to the outside of the chain ring under  load after a while. If I rotate the crank manually without load I can see that the the chain is jumping up on the chainring teeth.

It seems like the front chain ring should be 2-3mm further outboard because the gear teeth catch the chain plates causing the chain to jump.

Does anybody have the same problem? Any tips how to solve it? It is not a problem with the high/low limits on the derailleur.

Thanks


texts: Why are some leather saddles laced at the bottom and should I do this to mine?

texts:
Some Leather saddles, such at the brooks b17 imperial have holes at the bottom for lacing.

What does lacing a leather saddle do and should I (or when should I) do this to my own leather saddle? Should I adjust the saddle tension bolt before considering lacing or do they solve different issues?


texts: What do the conical springs in quick releases actually do?

texts:
What is the purpose of the conical springs in quick releases?

For centering? For anti-rotation? For dropping on the garage floor and rolling under the table? A legacy of the great spring controversy of 1913?


texts:
Is there any research that suggests cyclists are safer drivers than drivers who don't cycle? Is there evidence to suggest the opposite?

Please remember this is not a discussion. Please include references to credible research in your answer.


texts: Hollowtech 2 cranks and bb how good they are?

texts:
I have been commuting by a bike for 6 months on a 9 speed bike. It has a standard squared taped BB and cranks screwed on it. Now I have heard those Hollowtech 2 cranks and BB and how they can improve efficiency and putting bearings outside BB (not sure if I am saying it correctly).
So how good they are? I could actually feel the improvement when I changed from a 32mm tyre to a 23 mm high pressure tyre couple of months ago. I am thinking of upgrading if worthwhile. Thanks.


texts: How much float do the Speedplay Zero pedals have?

texts:
I was reading up that the "Speedplay zero" has a unique float and a wide range, but when reading up on the page dedicated to the "Speedplay zero" it mentions thatit is for  Rider who prefers a fixed (no float) or limited-float pedal system in the section labeled "why get this pedal."  It had also mentioned on the top of the page that it has a varying float, and that it has multiple adjustments to adjust the cleats perfectly for yourself.

I am curious if anyone has any experience with these as I am looking for a pedal that has a good amount of float so that I do not experience knee injury.  I heard the Speedplays and "Keywin" companies were good for that.


texts: Are there any reasons why you would avoid going disc (other than cost) for racing cyclo cross?

texts: Why (if you had the choice) would you stay with cantilever brakes and forgo the opportunity to change to a disc set up for racing cyclo cross?


texts: What are the pros and cons of sunscreen vs. protective clothing?

texts:
I have decided that, lack of sunburn aside, I need to get back to being pretty serious about UV protection.  I've been sloppy about it for a few years, and would like to not continue inviting skin cancer.

I'm on my bike for 90 to 120 minutes every day, about 45 minutes in the morning and 55 minutes in the evening.  But, I'm in Austin, which means intense ambient heat and intense sun during the summer.  Sometimes I resent stop lights because they leave me sitting in direct sunlight with absolutely no air flow to cool me down.  Sometimes it's so hot that doesn't do any good, anyway.

So far as I see it, my options are to lather up my arms, legs, and face with sunscreen twice a day, adding on a hat beneath my helmet (or getting a solid helmet); or to get some of the UV-protective clothing like what Izumi makes and wear that on most of my rides, though that means extra cloth on my arms, legs, and hands, and thus more gear that I have to cope with.

Clothing appeals from a reusability standpoint.  It might also help by reflecting more sunlight and thus more heat.

Sunscreen appeals from a "not putting on cloth that traps heat" pespective.

So, in bright/hot areas, which is more comfortable?  Should I just try both and see which I find more comfortable?  Even more importantly, which provides adequate protection?

And, if parts of my body are not tanning at all (such as, under my shirt), am I actually getting adequate protection there?


texts: Can you help identify this road bike frame manufacturer?

texts: I searched the internet but found nothing


texts: Ultrasonic cleaner power requirements, for cleaning chains before waxing

texts:
This question is a follow-up to Ultrasonic cleaner advice, for cleaning chains before waxing.

I plan to lubricate my chains by immersion in molten paraffin wax. The advantages and disadvantages are discussed in answers to a question by Poulter.*

The wax only adheres to clean surfaces without grease. While this is easy to achieve that for the outer surfaces, it is not easy at all where it counts: inside the roller bushings. I should rather avoid the good old Sheldon Brown method, since I fear it may be too much fun†. It appears to be consensus that ultrasonic cleaning is needed.‡

In JC Allen's answer to Ultrasonic cleaner advice it is pointed out that heating is necessary – 50 C are suggested. An answer by Maarten discusses cavitation size at lower ultrasound frequencies.

However, there is no discussion of the transducer power requirements to achieve thorough cleaning between rollers. At present I am in a discussion with other cyclists who doubt that low powered devices, specifically a 2l device with a 60 W, 40 kHz, transducer is sufficient.

What are the requirements for a ultrasonic cleaner? What is the minimum transducer power for thoroughly cleaning all relevant surfaces?

* Please post fundamental comments on the method at Poulter's question.

† Fun, as in the feeling experienced when one's dwelling is flooded with magma, while being inside.

‡ I cannot find sources to support that claim.

tl;dr: Are heated ultrasonic cleaners with low powered transducers (e.g. 30 W, 50 W, or 60 W) good enough for cleaning bicycle chains from lube before paraffin wax treatment?


texts: What causes rim failure where spokes pull it apart?

texts:
I've seen a few failures like this lately from touring cycling groups, and I'm wondering what causes this kind of rim failure (if it can be generalized).

poster on group reported shortly after this that there were two other (three total) spots looking like this. Looks very distinct from the side blowouts caused by brake wear.

Is it just overtightened spokes?


texts: What is causing phantom shifting on front chainring?

texts:
I have a steel cyclocross bike which doubles as my weekend bike and my daily commuter. About a month ago I got in a wreck and bent the rear derailleur hanger and the rear derailleur. Got the hanger re-aligned and put on a new derailleur.  Chain was not all that worn (checked it) so didn't replace it.

Fast-forward about three weeks. I was noticing significant "phantom shifting" which was primarily when putting a lot of torque on the pedals (I have 220mm cranks and go up a 10% grade on the way to work). Everything seemed to be lined up on the stand, but on inspection the chain had multiple links with cracks in them. New chain=problem solved... for about 3 days. Now it's started acting the same way. It frequently "skips" and occasionally tries to shift from the middle chainring to the small chainring if I'm riding uphill, which threatened to unhorse me once. It can also do this on the large chainring. I checked visually and there's no snaggletooth. The chainring does seem to have a very minor wobble -- less than 1mm left/right, but I've noticed that the phantom shift/skip is indepenendent of where my feet are (ie can happen with left foot up, right foot up, etc)

Any ideas on what else could be causing this / what should I check?


texts: Which type of course is the fastest for a 10 km TT? A completely flat course or a course with 5 km uphill and 5 km downhill?

texts:
There are two types of courses that I am considering for a 10 km trial:

Completely flat. 5 km out and 5 km back.
5 km uphill at a grade of 1%, and 5 km downhill on a grade of 1%.

Assuming you start and finish at the same place and the elevation increase/decrease is zeroed out, is one of these courses faster than the other? Or are they both the same? Would a lighter rider benefit from the 1% uphill gradient?


texts:
The other day I left my mountain bike upside down overnight as I was changing a tyre. The next morning i had a puddle of what seem to be oil next to the handle bar. Does anyone have an idea where is this coming from? As far as I am aware my disk brakes are not hydraulic would it be from my front shocks? If so how do you replace, and is it safe to ride it now before putting some oil in?

This is my bike:

http://www.performancebike.com/reviews/performance/power/pwr/product-reviews/Specials/Spin-Doctor-Pro-Bike-Build/MONGOOSE/p/30__1446-2009-Mongoose-Canaan-Comp-Mountain-Bike-U-S-Exclusive.html


texts: I am looking at a DHX2 shock which is 230x65 I have a bronson which is 200x57 is it possible to resize the DHX2 to fit my frame. I have seen some folks use spacers but seeing as I am trying to downsize it I think it may be unfeasible or perhaps very expensive new shaft etc. 30mm difference in eye to eye and 8mm in stroke.


texts: Have Ritchey Logic cleats changed in 15 years?

texts:
I ride very old Ritchey Logic pedals (model year ~1998), with original cleats (look like the red ones below):

Since those have long been out of stock, I'd like to buy newer ones, the Logic V4 Comp, looking like the black one:

Question: does anybody know, whether Ritchey cleats for old Logic pedals are still compatible with the new ones? I'd be grateful for a non-speculative, definite answer.


texts:
One of the pedal arms in my bike is loosening off the crank every so often. When it starts to happen, the pedal arm, that has square ends, and the nut will end up detaching from the crank, so I have to tighten it back up with a socket wrench like the one in the picture below as tight as I can, but after a few weeks it will start to loosen again. Everything else seems to be ok otherwise.

What can I do to fix this problem permanently?


texts: Calorie burn information is dramatically different between Strava IOS App and Cyclemeter IOS app. Which is more accurate?

texts: I use Cyclemeter to track rides on my iPhone 6, then when the ride is over, I send the info to Strava. When I look at the ride in Strava the calculated Calories burned for a 17 mile 90 minute ride is ~500 while Cyclemeter says ~1100 (My weight is 225lb). I do not have a heart rate or cadence monitor, so the only info being used is the GPS (distance and elevation data) and barometer(I assume) and then my weight. What factors could account for such a big difference? Do the 2 services use vastly different data from maps? Which one should I trust?


texts: How do I know when it's time to pump up my tires?

texts:
I've been cycling for several months now. However, I have had the misfortune of having two bicycles stolen from me, so I've never had a single bicycle for more than a few months. With time passing, I've been thinking I might need to pump up my tires some. The thing is, I don't experience any degradation of my cycling experience so far, and by a cursory unexperienced glance the tires don't seem deflated (I think; I can't quite say if there's any sag compared to when I bought them).

So, how do I know whether it's time to pump the tires up? Should I just do it regularly every X weeks/months?


texts:
Have been trying to get the lockring removed from my cassette so I can replace it with a spacer kit and one sprocket (singlespeed conversion). I managed to get it loose, although the wrong way - so the whole cassette started unscrewing off the hub. I can't turn it the other way at all. Can someone confirm:

That this is actually a lockring
If so, any tips on how to remove it?

I have a chain whip, lockring tool and 24mm spanner/wrench.


texts: How to install pre bled brakes with internally routed frame

texts:
I have a 2017 Salsa Mukluk with an internally routed rear brake.  I bought Shimano XT hydraulic brakes to replace the low end mechanicals that came on the bike.  My problem is that the brakes came pre-bled.  I wanted to buy them not pre-bled, but couldn't find any.

My question is, what's the best way to install the brakes?  Should I completely empty the lines, internally route, cut to length, install new olive and barb and then refill with fluid?  Or is there a way to keep the fluid in the lines?

Doesn't pretty much everyone need to cut the lines to length?  I don't really understand why anyone would want pre-bled brakes.


texts: Are you an over-60 unicyclist with insights you would like to share, about anything from getting started to getting off?


texts:
Probably, another debatable question from my side.

When carrying items while riding, like water bottle, repair kits, pumps, or other stuffs that you might need, What is the best option.... to carry them?

On your cycle at saddle bag, handlebar bags, or pannier bags or etc.
or, On backpacks, like hydrant pack, or simple travel pack.

While loading on cycle, it will increase the weight of the bike, thus affect a lot of things, like speed, traction, more reactive on corners. Like while using pannier bags.. it will increase rear weight, making it difficult on uphill.

Also while loading on backpack, it will tire you down fast if its a big load, decreases your flexibility, agility & etc.

So what is right way to do it?

Update:

The type of ride I generally, go to are commuting, mountain biking, & trailing. And the items I generally carry are

Commuting: Water bottle(x2), Laptop (17"), books, copies, repair kits, hand pump, few other accessories.
Mountain Biking & Trailing: Water bottle(x2), repair kits, extra tubes, hand pumps, candybars & few other accessories


texts: Raising the bars on a stock Giant Escape Hybrid

texts:
I have a stock Giant Escape 1 Hybrid which I would like to raise the handle bars on for a more upright position. I'm looking for comfort not speed on my commute.

Am I right in thinking the easiest way is to replace the stem with a steeper angle / shorter length? I was thinking something like this so I could "dial it in"?

Is there an easier way and / or am I barking up the wrong tree?


texts: What's this torque specification on the seatpost for?

texts:
I read 12Nm torque on my seatpost (a Cinelli Vai seatpost).

What does this torque refer to?

I would assume it's for the two bolts above that tie the saddle rail to the seatpost, but at the same time it looks like a very high torque to me for those bolts, so I am confused.


texts: I want to switch my front and back brakes

texts: I want to switch my brakes to have the front brake be on the right and the rear on the left?  How do I detach the cables and reattach to the opposite lever?


texts: Riding with a Gates belt past its due replacement mileage: can it snap or other risks?

texts:
I just purchased a belt drive bike (Gates CD).

Maintenance free, according to the BS and what I have read online. The only attention is to replace it every 5000 km.

Since I usually ride around 8000 km/year, I was thinking to replace it once a year.

However I don't know what can happen by using a belt past its replacement swap mileage.

Can it snap like a belt in a internal combustion engine? Or, more in general, what are the risks?


texts: Left crank cracks when the left pedal is pressed

texts:
My crank has a little slack and cracks more and more when I pedal, but only on only with the left pedal.

What could be the cause(s) of this ?

Video of the loose crank:

Video of the cracking crank:


texts: Is an SLX M7000 crankset compatible with the rest of my drivetrain?

texts:
I ride a Comencal Meta HT AM Origin. Unfortunately I need to buy a new crankset. I’ve been thinking about Shimano SLX FC-M7000 34-24T with a new bottom bracket, BB-MT800.

Do you know if that crankset will work fine with the SRAM x5 parts which are currently on my bike?


texts:
I am hoping to get some tips and suggestions for having a partner drive support for long rides (training or touring).

Is it best to plan spots that they will meet you and can get to your location of needed (before moving on to a next location)?

We often see documentaries and shorts shot from a following vehicle but I assume that having someone follow close with the hazard lights on isn't quite safe (or legal?).

For those of you who have driven out arranged for a partner to drive support, how do you logistically do so?


texts: What is the technical name for this nut-bolt thing with inner hubs?

texts:
Its size is 2.2cm times 1.5cm. The width of axle is 0.92 cm (measured on the curved area, not probably the right way to measure) for axle in the hub Shimano Nexus SG 8R20 (12mm stop washer but cannot find its axle width from service manual). Its thread is unknown.

Please, see the picture. I want to learn how to measure the tread inside the thing and other conventions by which such things are named, such as the maximum torgue in Nm, so I can buy the thing in any unknown store. My local hardware store said that you cannot get it as bulk product because it has special thread. I am however interested whether there is any cheaper non-bicycle-store substitute to this thing. If not, I am still looking for ways to substitute this thing for inner hubs.

[Update, more images]

You can see that the left cap nut is in a very bad condition, it was new 6 months ago. The washer seems to be a bit damaged when looked from the side. The metal spaghetti shows that the internals of the cap nuts are broken.

The serrated washer eats into the paint, making very bad to the frame.

I am looking something better options to this inner hub thing, the expensive easily-broken cap nuts and damaging paint are not the way to go again.

Related

question with similar sizing problem covering nuts and axles here but front wheel
Harris explaining the axle hassle that affects the nuts here
investigating only the axle length, probably the reason why the cap nuts gets broken seasonally, here


texts: Replacing thick wheels with thinner ones

texts:
My heavy bike (~15 kg) has thick wheels, the rim width of each is about 3 cm. Accordingly, the tires are also thick (~4.5 cm). Unless the tires are fully pumped up, the bike is difficult to ride and is considerably slow (due to significant traction).

I am thinking of replacing the wheels with thinner ones. Is this possible in principle? If so, what issues have to be considered before doing that?


texts: I'm a CAT 4 racer, will I be suspended from racing by UCI / USAC if I participate in non-sanctioned races?

texts:
I'm not a pro, just a CAT 4 racer with a USA Cycling License. Can I be suspended and fined by UCI / USAC if I participate in non-sanctioned races? I've heard they are cracking down on licensed pros racing in non-sanctioned races, but does this apply to everyone?  What is the likelyhood of that actually happening?

UCI 1.2.019 rule states “No license holder may participate in an event that has not been included on a national, continental or world calendar or that has not been recognized by a national federation, a continental confederation or the UCI. Breaches of articles 1.2.019 or 1.2.020 shall render the license holder liable to one month’s suspension and a fine of 50 to 100 Swiss francs.”


texts: Finding the cause of a tubless loss of sealant

texts:
Today I had a complete loss of pressure while parked. This is what I came back to

I haven't been able to find a hole in the tyre with a visual inspection or by feeling around the inside of the tyre. One thing that stood out to me was the tape around the rim has a puncture at one spoke point. I don't know enough about tubeless setups to say that this would be the cause or not.

The rest of the spoke holes look fine, this is the only punctured area of tape.

On a tube setup I'd normally re-inflate the inner tube with some soapy water on the exterior to find the source of the leak before replacing the inner tube. With the tubeless tire I'm having trouble getting it on the bead the whole way around and I only have a floor pump.

How can I find the cause of the original pressure loss and begin to make repairs without access to shop air supply? Is the tape puncture the cause? Can I use methylated spirits to remove the remaining dried sealant?

Thanks in advance!

update 1: LBS who retailed the bike recommend following the specs on the tyre. The tyre was running right in the middle of the rated range.

update 2: Giant recommended running within 5 PSI to the centre from each of the upper & lower limits specified on the tire, with a few caveats. Backpack, panniers, would push the recommended PSI up a bit. Rider weight & personal preference would also have some bearing on the running PSI.
  100 PSI (dead centre of the recommended range) shouldn't be a problem for the tape at my weight at all but If I desired a softer ride I could drop the pressure a bit.


texts: How I can see who watched my Strava profile?

texts:
I have strava account,
Can I somehow see who watched my strava profile or my strava activities?


texts:
I've recently landed on asphalt because I've met the ground with the left pedal when turning left... It was painful, but no visible damage to me or bike...

The problem is, that my natural position when not pedaling is with left leg down, every other position (right leg down, or middle position) are in long perspective exhausting for my muscles... I don't know if it has to do with some asymmetry in my pelvis or false muscle memory/training (I rarely stand in upright position as well).

Are there any exercises targeted at muscles responsible for good position while riding? When I try this while riding, it's quite exhausting and often makes me making dangerous errors, so I hope there's some exercise I could do at home.


texts: How do I know if mudguards will fit my 2009 Carrera Kraken?

texts:
With the nice (and muddy!) weather coming up, I'd like to get some mudguards, but I'm really unsure of what will fit my bike

I have a 2009 Carrera Kraken, no modifications.

I will probably buy them from ebay since there are cheap ones on there, which fittings/style of mudguard are good?


texts: How to increase range of disc brake pistons?

texts: Recently swapped over my disc brake pads, but discovered that the pistons lightly scrape the rotor when not braking, and when I am braking it doesn't make much of a difference and it allows me to pull my lever all the way to the handlebar. Shimano Deore brakes btw


texts: Persistent front wheel squealing: Replace the fork? Switch to disk?

texts:
I have a Cannondale touring bike from the early 2000s that I use as my daily commuter.  With the stock cantilever brakes and original front wheel, I had a lot of front brake squealing.  I did the standard maintenance to try and make it stop (toeing, sanding, etc), and it returned persistently.  I've even replaced the front wheel (independent reason: got a dynamo) and the brake calipers (Avid Shorty), all to have the squealing come back.

This isn't just any minor squeal, this is "audible from 100 yards, plug your ears, the bike is screaming in pain" kind of embarrassing noise.

Would it be possible that it's the canti mounts on the forks that are causing the squealing?  Would replacing the fork be a possibility for fixing this?

I've been thinking that I might try switching to disk brakes, but I don't want to just have a different kind of squealing.

I already have a disk-compatible front hub (Shimano Alfine dynamo hub with CenterLock), but I'd need to get a new fork to get the tabs and calipers.  I don't want to throw away $200 (fork + brakes) if I'm just going to be squealing again or subject to a different annoying noise.

Would it make sense to do this in stages?  I.e. get a fork with disk and canti tabs and try that, and if the squeal returns try the disk option?


texts: I'm thinking of changing from 8 speed to 9 speed. What are things I should keep in mind before changing free wheel?


texts:
I am getting at the same time these two opposite results:
1. WARNIG: Heart rate too high. Maximum heart rate 148
2. INDICATION: Heart rate 134.
Of course 134 is lower.
Why does it happen?


texts: Achieving Correct Beltline for Gates Carbon Drive

texts:
I’m building up a Soma Wolverine with a Gates Carbon Drive and Alfine 11 internal gear hub. The Gates literature indicates that the beltline should be 43.7 mm +/- 1mm.

I am trying to use an old crankset I have on-hand, a Sugino RD2, which has a 45mm chain line when using a 103mm bottom bracket. Obviously this is slightly out of spec with the Gates belt line requirements

My question is, can I use an adjustable Phil Wood bottom bracket to make up the 0.3-1.3 mm difference in beltline? Would it be better to have the bottom bracket built with an offset spindle, which it sounds like Phil Wood can do? Or best to just buy a crankset from Gates?


texts: How to disassemble pinned sprockets from a freewheel

texts:
I have a shimano freewheel like this one

Picture taken from Cassette Removal & Installation
I need to use separate sprockets from it but I'm not sure how to extract them without causing any damage. I got the urge to just drill through those pins but I thought I'd rather ask first before the damage is done.
How do you take apart the sprockets?


texts:
When I bought my bike back in 1999, it was mounted on Shimano 105 except for rear derailleur and cassette which are Deore XT (all 9-speed, Hyperglide). The vendor then told me

  "..and you've got a Deore XT derailleur, more solid than the 105".

Sure Shimano won't suggest such combination however I wonder what kind of problem this can create. Shifter/derailleur compatibility? Chain/cassette compatibility? Cassette/hub fit?

NOTE: 105 was 9-speed in 1999.


texts: Bump on tire near valve after tube replacement

texts:
After about almost two seasons of regular city riding, I had the good judgement to roll over some still-hot asphalt, resulting in a puncture in my rear tube.

While this is the first time I've had to replace a tube on this particular bike and these particular rims, I followed the standard procedure I've used dozens of times on other frames over the years:

I removed the rear wheel;
I popped off the bead on one side of the rear tire;
I fully deflated and removed the old tube and disposed of it;
I finally put in the new tube after checking that the rim tape's in good shape, taking care not to pinch it between the tire and the rim.

After inflating the new tube, I noticed that the tire was rising up and away from the rim right where the valve was.

I deflated the tire and jiggled the valve around, making sure that the threads (it's a Presta) weren't getting stuck on the rim, but the valve wouldn't come out any further. I decided to make the short commute back home, since worst case, I could always walk.

Biking into work the next day, I managed to get a slow leak meaning that my tire was flat by 10 AM after riding in, with the puncture being right next to the valve. After replacing the tube again, I've once again got that weird bump.

I'm sure that my tube and rim have the right width; both are 700x23c (the tube is advertised as 23-25c on the packaging). I haven't yet had a flat on the newest tube, but I'm extremely hesitant to keep riding with my tire in that shape.

This is also the first time I've replaced a tube on a deep dish rim; are the steps and checks any different?

What causes this weird bump, and what can I do to avoid it?


texts: What do I need to research to switch to an internally geared hub?

texts:
I have a bike that I rather like, but it's geared entirely for high-speed road bike type work.  It's fantastic on the flat areas of the route that I take every day, but I also have a couple of serious hills that I cannot climb with this one (I can climb them with a different bike).

So, I'm looking at the possibility of saving money to replace the entire bike, or to regear it.  An option that I saw today was something like the Shimano Alfine 11-speed hubs.  I've not calculated gear ratios, but it's claimed that they have a very wide range and such a thing would benefit me.

So, if I wanted to retrofit my bike to an internally geared hub, what is involved (and what are the terms I'm looking for)?

size of axle?
distance across the rear fork?
what to do with no-longer-used rear derailleur?
will my existing grip-shifter need to be replaced, and does that entail anything other than just putting the new one on and attaching the wires?
will my entire rear wheel need to be replaced?

I'm pretty vague on what industry terminology would be used in this case.  I'm also trying to evaluate the viability of even doing this as I balance my options for adjusting or replacing the bike to better fit the city I live in.  The only adjustment I haven't mentioned is for me to replace the front chainring (there's only one on this bike) with something a little smaller.  I'd lose level-ground power but gain some climbing power.  And that, really, might be the least expensive and easiest of all of my options.


texts:
I've been lurking for a couple months, but this is my first post and I still have a lot to learn.
Background
I inherited an old hybrid bike (Raleigh Dash EX) and an old stationary trainer, and I would love to find a suitable trainer tire to keep biking inside while it's cold and snowy.
This is my first time picking out a tire myself, so I need some feedback because I'm struggling to answer this question myself.
Here’s my rim (it's a 700c (622)), and the current tire (700 x 38):
What's causing some concern for me when picking out a trainer tire is the tire width.
When I've looked at trainer tires, they tend to be much narrower. Examples:

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Home Trainer Fold Tire: 700 x 23
Tacx Trainer Tire: 700 x 23
Kinetic by Kurt: 700 x 25

The only one I can find of reasonably close width is the Continental Hometrainer Folding Tire (700 x 32).
Question
Does this mean that my best choice of training tire is the Continental because the others are so far off in width from my current tire?
Another way to phrase this agnostic of endorsing a brand/specific tire: If a tire with width 38mm currently works well with my wheel, would it be better to find a trainer tire with a similar width (e.g. 32+ mm) or does the width not matter enough here to make an impact?
I've seen some different advice involving this because 1) if I were on the road, that width difference has the potential to cause rim damage (source), but 2) because I'm on a trainer, the tire isn't really taking much load so it being a perfect width might be less of a concern.
Follow-up related question: I'm assuming with such a big tire width difference from the existing tire, it's likely that I'll need to assess if I need a new tube. Is that a reasonable assumption?
Thank you!!


texts: Chain falls off all the time when I want to shift from small to big front ring

texts: 90% of the time when I shift from the small front ring to the big one the chain falls off to the pedal. Why is this happening? This is a dual click, SRAM Rival. Shifting on a back wheels perfect, no problems.I really need some help please.


texts: SIm trying to find the name of my bike NFSD140S1561 is the serial number. its a bmx style and says pacific on the frame. Can anyone give me any info?


texts:
I'm planning on flying to Japan for a bicycle vacation early this spring. Having had a look at flight bags, I'm puzzled. They are expensive, weigh tons and are huge, I couldn't feasibly bring them with me on my bicycle trek. I might be able to rent storage for roughly a month in Tokyo, but it seems like quite a tedious project on its own.

How do the rest of you manage? Remove the wheels and wrap the thing up in (EDIT: cardboard and) plastic-wrap on the airport, have it checked in instead of luggage, and then use the panniers as carry-on luggage? Is it safe? Has anyone had their bicycle damaged or stolen during transport?


texts: Two broken teeth in Shimano 105 crankset

texts:
I have just received my new 105 7000 cranksets from a reputable seller in Aliexpress and I believe there are two broken teeth perhaps cause by mishandling of the shipment company or poor wrapping of the groupset components. Do these affect the performance of the shifting and do I have to bother sending these back?
Measured the rest of the teeth are around 5mm and these 2 are 4mm now.


texts: How can I get started building a bicycle?

texts:
Now that I've been riding a while, I'm interested in building my own bike.  In this case, it will be a bike for commuting and getting around town.  It will probably be a flipflop fixie/single gear, but the kind of bike isn't important to this question.

What resources (books, web sites, magazines, shops) do you recommend for information about building a bicycle from scratch?


texts: I have recently been riding bmx, racing to be more specific. I ride around my neighborhood a lot when im not at the track and have noticed this loud clanking noise. I didn't know where it was coming from at first. Thought it was maybe the pedal. But then I started paying more attention to it. It happens on my right foot when I pedal. This happens about every 10-15 minutes and sometimes I don't get it for an hour or two. When I was at the track I was standing up at the gate with my right foot forward. Then it happened. I was simply standing there and it made the loud clank noise, but then I found out where the problem is.(sort of). When it happened my right foot went down one crank. My foot went foward with out the tire or bike moving. What's the problem? Will it cause future damage? My guess is that the crank is slipping and not engaging. I have a 3 piece cliq crank. I'll try to discribe the sound a little better. It sounds like your hitting the bottom bracket with a rock or tapping it with your finger.


texts: I have a road bike with Look pedals that I would like to ride with SPD pedals, are they any adapters to the cleats that would allow me to do it?


texts: What's the most useful style of chain gauge?

texts:
I see that there are three kinds of chain wear gauge:
The basic kind. I'm used to using this kind:

The hook style. Supposedly provides an indication of how worn the chain is. I've used these and the idea makes sense:

Digital. This seems like overkill and designed to separate fools from their money:

Does anyone know the relative benefits of each? Is the simple kind generally good enough?


texts: Bike size - will a 2cm make a difference

texts: I am buying a Cannondale Synapse 105. I have to buy used, not new.  There are two I am considering, they are identical except one is 54 cm and the other is 56 cm. My height is 5' 10/11".  I have read many articles on bike size.  Are there any experienced bikers here who can offer good guidance?


texts: Bike not changing correctly between two gears

texts:
I have only recently started riding to work and I've been given a bike by a friend which is in reasonably good shape.

For the way things are working out I keep the front gear in the same position and change the back one between 4, 5 and 6.

The trip is very hilly so I like to switch over to 6 as I near the top of a hill so I can continue pedaling as soon as possible at the base of the next hill.

However, the bike changes quite readily between all other gears 1 - 5, except going up from 5 to 6. Going down 6 - 5 works fine. This means more effort when trying to go up the next hill. Sometimes the gear kicks in just before I want to switch back down to 5 again.

There is also a 7th gear on the back that I don't use, so the 6th is not the highest choice.

This problem occurs regardless of if I'm going up, down or on a flat grade. It also doesn't help if I try switching back down to 5 and trying again, it just seems to kick in randomly.

Any suggestions on what I can see could be causing this.


texts: Is there a bicycle designed for slow riding?

texts:
I enjoy my road bike, but recently my children have become old enough to ride, but still very slowly.  I'd like to be able to ride with them on all or mostly flat pavement, but the road bike just isn't pleasant for slow riding as it takes more effort to balance and isn't that comfortable.

What type(s) of bike is well-suited for very slow comfortable riding like this?


texts: Cross Training routines for longer rides

texts:
I am trying to build up to longer rides (75 - 100 miles). I usually only have time for one long ride a week. I can squeeze in one or two shorter rides of 20 miles or so. How can I build mileage under those kinds of time constraints?

The obvious answer is to go out and ride a little longer each ride, and I'm doing that. I am really looking for supplemental workouts or cross training ideas. My legs and lungs are doing well with the increases but my shoulders, back and arms are not. Frankly even ways to get used to being on the saddle that long would help.

What other aerobic exercises are best? (running, swimming, etc.)
What other strength/flexibility exercises will help? (yoga, back/shoulder exercises, etc.)


texts: Constantly engaged disc brakes, how hydraulic brakes retract?

texts: I'm building a little velomobile and I'm thinking of creating a handbrake (park brake) feature where I'd engage the brakes when I leave it somewhere so it can not move (slope, get stolen or whatever). I'm concerned if having my brakes engaged for a long time can introduce some damage to the system like bending the rotor as well as I'm not really sure how the retraction works. I'm using a pair of shimano hydraulic disc brakes purchased them assembled and filled with oil. If the pistons are being retracted by springs and were not designed to remain engaged for hours on end I suppose that the springs could loosen and not do their job so good after some time, while if the retraction is achieved via the vacuum from the retracting fluid inside then I suppose I would not have to worry, which I'm keen is the case but I guess I'm looking for a word of comfort since I could not find this information online, it's all about mechanic vs hydraulic everywhere.


texts: When to change winter tires for bicycles

texts:
At work, we discussed when to change to winter tires for bicycles (and cars). We assumed that temperature was the key factor and I used a program (Mathematica) to check the mean temperature in Stockholm (see this question Probability of ice in Stockholm).

My question is: besides the risk of ice, what are key factors for deciding when to change from summer tires to winter tires? E.g. is the rubber of summer tires negatively impacted when it gets colder.


texts: A general explanation of rim, tire and tube specifications

texts:
My bike's manufacturer page specifies that it has a rim size of 700CX14GX36H.  It provides a tire size of 7X28C.  It also mentions that it uses high performance 700C tires, which I think is also referenced in the rim size.

I just replaced my tube by myself for the first time, and it was easy enough to determine that I needed a 700x28c size tube, but I would really like to know what all these specifications I'm seeing mean.

Can someone provide an explanation of what general rim, tire and tube size specifications mean?


texts: Shimano sora 9 Speed rear derailleur capacity

texts:
It's 37T here http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/road/sora1.html

But 31T here
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sora-9-speed-rear-derailleur-1/#prodbullets

Why is the difference?

I want to install a 50/34 rings with 11-28 cassette. I have the cassette and RD already but not sure if the RD has the enough capacity.


texts: Is rotating seat post 180 degrees to get a tri position a good idea?

texts:
So I'm in the process of converting my road bike to a tri bike as much as possible. I would like to push the seat saddle a little more. So I rotated the post and adjusted the saddle as in the picture below. However I worried that such position might make it prone to snap to I reverted the change.
Picture of post with adjusted saddle: http://imgur.com/7dWpzQR


texts: I have an OLD (Columbus tubing anyone?)...Corsaro 27" X 1 1/4 12 speed road bike I am reviving. The first thing are new tires and tubes. I got 2 Michelin Protek 27 X 1 1/4" tires and Bell tubes. I installed one and all went well until I inflated it to 80 PSI, whereupon the tire popped off the rim.  The maximum stated in the instructions was 87 PSI. I called a friend at Off Ramp in San Jose and he said that my bike had older aluminum rims (?) which would not allow 80 PSI. He suggested 65 PSI. I am trying that.


texts: Damage hole in seat tube after sandblasting, is it possible?

texts:
I had this 29er steel 853 Reynolds frame, with the paint in very bad state, no rust or corrosion,
so I decided to have it sandblasted and repainted,...
The result I think that it is that I got it damaged with a hole in seat tube, just over the housing stop, after sandblasting, is it possible?


texts: Shimano Sora 9-speed shifters "missing a speed"

texts:
First time posting, hope I can get some suggestions on this weird issue I've noticed with my shifting. I have a fairly decent understanding of how to maintain gears myself, and have made quite a few attempts at trouble shooting this, so unless I've missed something it seems to be something beyond the obvious 'reindex, replace cable-housing, lube chain' sort of thing.

The Problem
So basically, my 9-speed shifters which are a few years old, seem to only click through 8 speeds, both ways. This manifests in the chain always 'skipping' a cog on the 9-speed cassette no matter how I index, although I think the cog it skips varies depending on whether I'm shifting up or down.

Notes

I have recently replaced the chain, the cassette, the cables (lubed) AND the housing, so I am fairly certain it is none of these.
The deraileur seems to be indexed correctly: transmission is quick and crisp and and both extermes of the cassette can be reached when shifting through all the speeds.
I have come off the bike on the the derailleur side before, but the fact both extremes can be reached seems to suggest a bent mount isn't the problem?
The shifter seems to physically only click through 8 speeds, despite most definitely being 9 speed.
Chain is 9 speed

For all I know it could be a common problem, but not one I'm familiar with. Is there some sort of adjustment needed on the shifters themselves?

Any informed suggestions greatly appearciated!

Thanks


texts:
In a guide for adjusting Avid BB7 mechanical road disc brakes, it said:

  Only use the barrel adjuster at the brake lever to adjust for cable slack. For lever throw, use the outboard adjustment knob. For brake pad wear adjustment, use both the inboard AND outboard knobs.

What is lever throw?

What is cable slack?

Which of these should I use to dictate how far I have to pull the levers to come to a dead stop?

For the BB7, it is recommended to have the inner (wheel-facing) pad about 2 times further from the rotor than the outer pad.


texts: Do these parts fit my Giant Escape 2 2018?

texts:
This is my bike Giant escape 2 2018

I want to change the groupset (for fun) for this one aliexpress link, Basically it's a Shimano Deore M6000 2x10 groupset (without the brakes)

I'm almost sure that it will be compatible but I don't want to spend the money before making the purchase so. Can you guys share your knowledge, is this compatible with my bike ?

Also, I think I need to buy a new freehub, do I?


texts:
My steel BSO has developed a creaking sound when I apply the front brake. I only hear it when I am beginning to brake, when there's not a lot of pressure being generated. I can recreate this sound by pushing the front wheel back with my hand, imitating braking pressure.

All the sound happens while I'm going from no braking to very light braking. Going from very light braking to very hard braking makes no noise.

I'm pretty sure the sound is either coming from the frame's head tube or the fork tube. I have inspected the frame and fork crown. No visible cracks.

I replaced my very weak front brake recently, and I have been enjoying doing stoppies and stuff. Could this have started a crack somewhere? And if so, where is it most likely to be?

Edit:

After following some of the advice you guys offered, I have further narrowed it down.

I do not have a suspension fork. My headset is not loose. The wheel is not the source of the creak.

I have found that the fork tube is also not the source of the creak, based on the way the sound behaves when the bars are turned one way or the other.

I am almost certain the noise is coming from the frame.

Follow Up:

I got it welded, and I haven't had problems since.


texts: I feel a little painful during the first few weeks of commute with bicycle. Just wondering that does it make my butt tighter and sexier?


texts: Is it possible to service rear derailleur pulleys?

texts:
The outer pulley of my RD-M735, when spun, sounds scratchy and feels slightly grindy as if there is a tiny piece of dirt/grit that has fallen inside.

I have literally soaked it in WD-40 and then 3-in-1 oil and also, motorcycle chain oil (scottoiler oil), whilst spinning the pulley and it is a lot better than before. But it still catches now and again when turned by just finger tip, and sounds slightly dry and grindy. It will turn under two finger pressure though.

Therefore, I was wondering if the pulleys are serviceable, inasmuch that one can access, clean and repack with grease, the ball bearings, or  replace the bearing (that I presume) are/is within the axis of the pulley?


texts: Change-over rules for women's team sprint

texts:
I have just been watching the women's team sprint finals, and sawsaw China lose the final race due to a rule infringement. Earlier the Great British team were disqualified for the same reason. There is a set region that one rider has to peel off and let the other pass through.

Despite the commentators' best efforts I still don't understand where this region is marked on the course.

Also I don't understand why there is such a rule at all. The lead rider allows the second rider to draft for the start of the race, so they want to stay in the race as long as they can, but they wouldn't want to stay in until the end. Is there a reason for a fixed change-over zone (e.g.safety), or is it just a rule that's always been part of the sport?


texts: Is there a possibility to mount a 2014/2015 Croozer Cargo trailer hitch onto a 2012/2013 model?

texts:
I've got a 2012/2013 Croozer Cargo trailer and its trailer hitch is very clunky. It's also difficult to couple and uncouple and I've hurt myself multiple times on the quadratic bolt sticking out at height of bicycle's rear axle. Additionally the part mounted to the bicycle makes it wider which causes issue when putting it in the boot of my car. (The bicycle is a Brompton folding bike and hence the size of the hitch matters, at least if it sticks out on the side like 5cm.)

Recently I saw new Croozer Cargo models at a dealer and I noticed that they now have a completely different trailer hitch system. Way more compact, less clunky, no more sharp 90° edges and easier to couple.

According to the dealer there's no chance of getting the new hitch system combined with my previous generation trailer—but this didn't seem a technical founded answer.

So anyone here knows if there's a possibility of retro-fitting my previous generation Croozer Cargo trailer with the current generation Croozer trailer hitch?


texts: SRAM eTap rear derailleur chain drop issue

texts: I’m having an issue with my chain falling off the lower pulley wheel when (1) I hit a significant bump or (2) shift from large ring to small ring.  But only in cogs 6, 7, 8.  Any suggestions?  I’ve checked derailleur hanger, put on a new chain, checked chain length, adjusted micro shifting and it still does it.  Groupo is a year old, never crashed, and is on a Canyon Ultimate CF SLX.  Thanks in advance.


texts: How do I pack a road wheel for shipping?

texts:
I need to ship a rear wheel back to the manufacturer for a warranty issue (Mavic).  I'm wondering what the best, most secure way to package it is so that there can be no refutation that 'it was damaged in shipping' or something like that.

What materials do I need and how do I package it?  I want to do it on the cheap because the manufacturer isn't covering the shipping cost.


texts:
I purchased a set of used clipless pedals. They are somewhat unique in that they do not use a spring mechanism, but instead have a rubber block / set screw to provide tension. The problem is even with the screw completely backed out, the pedals are still nearly impossible to get out of (I've actually had to remove the shoe because I couldn't unclip).  I'd like to replace the rubber (I read that this was a problem with some Onzo pedals with a similar design), but I don't know the brand. The dust caps just say 'CM'.

Can anyone identify the brand, maker or supplier for me?


texts: Reference Request: Best practices for urban commuting

texts:
I'm thinking about commuting by bicycle for the first time. What are some resources (e.g. books, websites) I should take a look at for tips and best practices to follow.
I'm looking for further reading that contains the type of advice given in this question:

What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute?


texts: Mountain bike crankset chainring compatibility

texts: I have a Shimano Deore LX crankset.  I would like to replace the outer chainring.  What manufacturer chainrings are compatible with my crankset ?  My outer chainring takes all of the abuse, due to logs and rocks.


texts: Do bike frames actually break so easily?

texts:
I've been thinking of getting an MTB. Watching all those videos on YouTube of people doing cool stunts or even just riding in a forest off-road looks amazing - until I got to videos like this one:

I've seen lots of posts on how to prevent breaking a bike frame, and I completely understand that the maintenance of bike should be regular, but are all these broken bike frames only because of bad state of bike itself?

I've got some friends who have broken their new MTB in few weeks of riding, was it just coincidence?

My question is: do bikes actually break that easily? That may sound like a noob question because, yeah I am not into biking at all. And I am looking at getting an MTB. (I can drive bikes pretty well, on roads.)

Thanks for any comment, answer, upvote or downvote (oh and yes if you downvote tell me why so I wont repeat my mistake)


texts:
I'm new to triathlon and want to ask about what are bikes that consider a good choice for triathlon beginners? for both training and locale or small competitions.

Here are some parameters to put in mind while recommending bikes:

Price range: As a beginner, I may give up early if I find out that this sport is not suitable for me, and spending $10k on a bike at this stage is not the best decision for sure.
Durability: beginners usually do mistakes, and may broke their bikes. A durable bike is highly recommended for this stage, right?
Ease of use: I mean by use; easy to be assembled, disassembled and any common or periodical fixes that need to be done to the bike.

Any other suggestions to put in consideration, please add.


texts: What is the meaning of 11-32 cassette and 12-25 cassette?

texts: I'm willing to buy a 2015 Shimano 105 groupset and i have got 2 options in choosing the cassette, the first is 11-32 and the other is 12-25. I have  no idea what these numbers indicate and which one would be more suitable for me knowing that i'am still a beginner.


texts:
I'm 195cm and 80kg. For as long as I can remember, I haven't been able to sit on my sit bones comfortably. In hard wooden chairs I slouch or lean far forwards. Plastic seats, such as on a metro, are also quite uncomfortable.

I often struggle with soreness after riding. My skin looks fine down there, but I get a tremendous amount of tissue soreness in the vicinity of each tuberosity. I do wear cycling shorts but not bib-shorts.

It just occurred to me yesterday evening as I was sitting on the metro and realized that yes, my butt hurts if I sit up properly.

Is there any hope for skinny people like me? Is the solution simply ride more? (increase muscle tone, develop awesome butt-calluses?)

I'm curious to hear solutions from other diminutive derriere dudes and dudettes.


texts: What are the physical advantages of riding a single speed with higher chainrings?

texts:
Ever since my aero road bike was stolen, I have been riding a cheap single  speed bike on average 6 miles a day. The crankset was cheap and I recently switched to Sram Ominium 48t vs what the bike had 44t.

Overall the bike is faster but the chainring is on the larger side and i constantly have to standup if i am going up hill.

I feel like my lower back is getting stronger, but I am wondering what the physical advantages of a higher chainring on a single speed.


texts: Front wheel tilted fork alignment problem

texts:
I have this Dawes Discovery Twin and there seems to be a problem with one, or maybe both, of the quick release dropouts. The front wheel tilts a little to the right and rubs the brake shoe.
I already tried swapping the wheel around to rule out the possibility that the wheel itself might be skewed.
Looks like one of the dropouts is bent a little, but I can't determine which is the bent one and which one is good. Maybe someone out there on stackexchange can spot the problem with the help of the attached photo's. The second picture also shows a little dent on the inside of the left fork arm. Not sure if it is damage or some provision in case you would want to install disc brakes (paint seems fine).
Anyone any idea how to straighten the wheel?

UPDATE 14/7
After your answer and comments I took out the fork and it looks like both arms are a bit skewed to the right (as seen while cycling), am I right? Like the whole thing has suffered a blow from the left.
Also now we have a clear view of the dented left arm. The dent is not very precise, more like a local depression. Made some measurements that appear to show that the left arm is closer to the stem than the right arm - it looks pretty serious on this photo but maybe my perception is biased - and that would account for the tilted position of the wheel. In which case fiddling with the alignment tool serves no purpose.
So I will go find myself a new fork. Thanks to all for your help and comments!


texts: Will Shimano Di2 synchro shift work with an XT (Mountain) rear derailleur with an Ultegra (Road) front derailleur on the same bike?

texts:
Basically, can I mix a mountain Di2 rear derailleur (specifically, the RD-M8050-GS) and with a road Di2 front derailleur (specifically, the FD-R8050)? Will firmware updates and syncro shift still both work properly?

Full context: I'm trying to build a touring tandem with a very wide gearing ratio... hoping for an 11-42 tooth cassette and a 16 tooth differential in the front.

I'd use full syncro-shift to ensure I can't cross chain (at least after it finished shifting) to ensure the rear derailleur has sufficient chain wrap capacity.

The other option is to use either (1) all mountain derailleurs with a larger big chainring at a 16-tooth differential, but I understand the front XT derailleur is only supposed to be used on a 10-tooth chainring differential, or (2) all road derailleurs with an 11-42 mountain cassette, but the road rear derailleur is only spec'd up to a 34-tooth sprocket, and I'm not sure if a road derailleur with a Wolf Tooth RoadLink DM (to allow bigger cogs) is as good as a native mountain derailleur on an 11-42 cassette.


texts: Alternative way for truing disc brake rotor after a couple of truing procedures

texts:
2 days ago after the last ride my front rotor (Ashima AiRotor 203mm) twisted again in a small area on it (not hit in obstacle or overheated), I was almost ready to throw another half an hour from my life to manual truing it with the tool, but gave up and decided to ask the community what is the idea to true it with best results and doesn't last 4-5 rides before twist again. Note that the brake caliper is centered so there's almost a symmetrical gaps between the rotor and brake pads and both brake pistons go out also symmetrically. Is it worth it to remove the rotor from the hub, heat it to mineral oil's boiling temp and put it on a press with 2-3t pressure or put it on lathe and use a pushing rollers on 1/3 of it's braking surface, like in machines which straightens the steel wire?

Thanks in advance


texts:
I have a nexus 8-speed internal hub on a Civia Kingfield bike. It keeps getting misaligned -- the dots on the bottom don't line up.

In the past I have successfully adjusted it using the barrel adjuster, and it would work great again for a few months. I attributed the misalignment to cable stretch. However the past two times I did this, it quickly became misaligned again, and now the barrel adjuster is so stiff I can't turn it with my fingers in either direction.

I took it to the shop and they claimed there was dirt in the barrel adjuster and they said they cleaned it out, and they had adjusted it again so the dots lined up. The barrel adjuster turned easily again immediately after they did this. 100 miles later, and it's horribly misaligned again, and the barrel adjuster won't turn again.

Furthermore, the latest misalignment happened quite suddenly to me today. It was riding pretty well, a skip here or there but very rare, and then suddenly became completely terrible; no gear "sticks" any more, and the dots are quite far apart on the bottom.

Any ideas what's up? I am thinking I probably need a new cable and new housing, however when I mentioned that to the shop they said the cable was fine (though I have no idea how they checked).

The bike has about 2000 miles on it and only minor maintenance has been done so far (wheel truing, previously mentioned barrel adjustments, new brake pads, etc.).


texts: Do you automatically have to replace your chainrings once your chain reaches 1 % chain wear?

texts: My chain was badly worn. 1.0+ % wear. There is no visible shark toothing or extreme spacing on chainrings. Is there a chance I can get away with not replacing the chainrings, or does the amount of chain wear automatically necessitate that I replace them?


texts: What is the difference between a TREK 7.2 FX and a TREK 7.3 FX?

texts:
I don't understand the numbering system on TREK bikes.

Is it the lower the number the better, or the higher?

What is exactly is the difference?


texts: Why does my chain have a single hollow pin?

texts: I have some version of a SunRace 10-speed chain, and I'm curious as to why it seems as though each pin is a regular "non-hollow" pin, and a single one on the chain is hollow.  Is this some kind of a master link?  I couldn't tell via - How can I tell if a chain has a master link?.


texts: Recommended Folding Bike for Hybrid Commuting? (Bus/Car + Bike)

texts:
I bike commute to work, but for other trips where I don't want to arrive covered in sweat and/or would take longer than 30 minutes each way, I generally have to drive. I'd like to be able to get anywhere in my city without a car. My city (Austin) has OK but not great public transit and the buses only hold two bikes (and are always full). We also have Car2Go, but there isn't always one nearby. I figure that if I had a folding bike, I could always get to one or the other fairly quickly and make most trips around town 30 minutes or less.

So, what folding bike would you recommend for:

Occasional use. 5-10 times per month.
Short trips. 1.5 miles or less each way.
Some hills, but nothing too steep.
Very compact size and easy transport. I need to be able to take it on a bus and fit it in a Smart Car.

EDIT to add:

I'm 6'3", about 200lbs
I generally would have 10lbs+ of gear with me.
I'll spend over $500 if necessary, but looking for the cheapest bike that will get the job done.


texts: Difference Between SRAM SX eagle chain and SRAM NX eagle chain(12 speed)?

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I have a Trek X-Caliber 8 with a SRAM SX Eagle 12 speed drive train, but I only have a SRAM NX Eagle chain. What is the exact difference between the two chains, and how can I modify my chain to make it work with my bike?

I do not have another Eagle chain
The chain is too long, not too short
I do have a chain breaker, but the pins seem to be stamped so you can't take them out? My chain breaker might just not be up to the task.


texts: Periodic Maintenance Task for Bike Commuters

texts: What are the periodic maintenance tasks (weekly, monthly, annual, every X miles) that anyone who relies on a bike for transportation (typically in urban/semi-urban environments) should be performing? Ideally stated in terms of miles travelled (where applicable).


texts: How to distribute weight properly in this situation?

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I want to travel long distances with a mountain bike, and I have an army backpack that's wide, 55L, weights around 15-20kg total. I do not have a bike yet so I cannot test it, but I wonder if it won't cause problems in regards of weight distribution?

I'm planning to put it above the back tire on an attachable metal holder (the standard one) and strap it around my waist so it wouldn't fall down.

Would this work? I'm worried about weight distribution and it making me fall down, especially if I'm riding on an uneven road.

Please ask questions if you need to.


texts: Reuse oversized hardtrail frame to build a commuter bike?

texts: I have a spare hardtrail frame which is too big (20.5") for me (5'7") for riding trails. Would it make sense to build a commuter bike for me as road/touring bike frames are generally larger than MTB? Could it be comfortable to ride this frame on road? I like to lean forward on a bike and I'm a fast type of commuter.


texts:
My V brakes make a lot of noise when I brake! I am annoyed by such noise, not to mention the pedestrians. My mechanic said that it will not make this noise after using it for couple of days, but it is not happening, it's already been about a month.

Should I grind the pads and then use it (I don't want to do this, it's a expensive set)? Or there is some other way?

I did see this question but the answer was not quite helpful.


texts:
I see this a lot in videos from road bike races. A lot of rider team cars mixed with the road bikes doing the actual race.

What is the matter with that? What do they do? Also, don't the riders inhale all the fumes from the exhausts?


texts: I'm back, again. I'm buying a BMX bike, its a 2021 Kink Gap XL. I wanna put pegs on it, because it doesn't have pegs, and a lot of the tricks I wanna learn require pegs. So, if I buy this bike, will I be able to put pegs on it? Will pegs work on any BMX bike? I don't really care what brand, just as long as something will work. Are there different sizes too?


texts:
It's an old 9 speed shifter bought in 2010 or so. It has been completely in bits and i have it all nicely back together, it operates "normally" for once shift only, doesn't reset and so only gives me 3 gears.

I probably have the lug in incorrectly.

Can someone explain how the indexing works or give me some other hints?


texts: Differences between Shimano DH-T670 and DH-3N72 dynamo hub?

texts: Despite the cutouts in the hub flange, are there any differences? Different sealings or different races?


texts: Replacing grip shift shifters on department store bike with thumb friction shifters?

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I have a department store bike with a twist grip shifter (3 chain rings, friction shift and 6 sprockets, index shift - Torque Drive One derailleur) and I want to replace it. I am not able to get sufficient advice on bicycle forums because it is a Bicycle Shaped Object apparently and not worth any money on fixing.

I have my reasons, and basically I am looking at something like http://amzn.to/papmPF or http://amzn.to/osZcI0 .. Is it possible to replace my current twist grip shifters with this? Is it a difficult process?

I particularly want a friction shifter, so is this possible?


texts:
I would like to use a Shimano XT group for my flat-bar disc-brake touring bike, but the XT crankset doesn't suit my touring needs very well. I would prefer having a 50/34 crank instead of the XT's 38/26.

To what extent is is possible to just change the crankset? I would like to keep the XT shifters etc., it's just the crankset that needs changing. Specifically, I'm considering putting on a Campagnolo Centaur Red&Black 50/34 crankset. Would this combination work? Does anyone have any experience with this or a similar setup?

Thank you very much for your answers!


texts:
I own a Honda Pilot and looking for the best bike rack that will allow me to hang the bike on the back of the pilot but possibly still open the door.  99.9% of the time we haul the bikes on my pickup truck - but we are going on a two week vacation in the Pilot so this one time I need to carry bikes. Does anyone currently carry bikes on a Pilot's rear hatch?  We can't put on top due to cargo container.

Can anyone suggest a good one that will still allow us to open the rear hatch?  We don't have a trailer hitch (and I am trying to keep cost down), so one that straps directly to the rear hatch would be great.

Thanks,
Mike


texts: Is it possible to control two brakes from a single lever?

texts:
Up until the start of the year, I was a keen road cyclist, I even dabbled a bit on here amongst the experts, but unfortunately in February I suffered a stroke.

I am gradually starting to pick things up again, one of which is a desire to get myself riding once more.

The stroke has left me with some damage, in particular it has paralysed my left arm and left me very unbalanced(!). I'm hopeful that maybe converting to a tricycle will help with the latter, but I have a question specifically about the former.

For the sake of this question, the bike I'm thinking about converting is about 5 years old, has brifters and dual pivot rim brakes. It shifts mechanically.

Now, I figure that it might be possible to rig something up, so as to allow me to operate the front derailleur with my right hand. An inventive use of a bar-end shifter, perhaps? But I'm at a loss as to how I can get the bike to brake smoothly, operating both front and rear brakes at once. One solution I can think of would be to control both brakes with the same brifter, and I was wondering, is this even possible in practise?

Also, I'm aware that an easier option, given my disability, might be to use an electronic shifter. In this scenario, I wouldn't even try to modify the existing bike, but would instead buy something new. But of course, current fashion dictates that new bikes commonly ship with disc brakes, and so I have a secondary question regarding how I might do this with hydraulic disc brakes. (Presumably, with mechanical disc brakes, the approach would be the same as for dual pivot brakes?)

Please note I'm not looking for a product recommendation here - I'm quite capable of doing this myself - but if someone can say "Yes, I've seen it done", and maybe suggest some search terms, then I would be grateful. As things stand, I'm not even sure what to look for.


texts: Would rim brakes help a slightly bent rim?

texts:
After recently falling and bending the rim a bit I was wondering if forcefully applying the brakes while in motion help it straighten a bit?

Might be my imagination but it seems much truer than right after the fall after constantly applying the brake.


texts: Will a newer Shimano series cassette be easily interchangeable?

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I'm trying to create two wheelsets that I can quickly swap out on the same bike for different conditions.  My existing set has a Shimano 105 5800 series 11 speed cassette.  They discontinued that so you pretty much can only find the newer Shimano 105 7000 series 11 speed cassette.

While reading a review of the newer series, it was mentioned that:

  It's designed to also fit a mountain bike wheel, so you need the optional spacer if you're fitting it to an 11-speed road wheelset.

My question is, will the spacer requirement on the new cassette with my road bike force me to mess with my rear derailleur indexing/etc. when I swap the wheelset/cassette?


texts: Fitting 1-1/8" straight fork in Giant Overdrive headset

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I have a 2013 Giant Defy 3 with a broken fork.  The original steerer tube is tapered: 1-1/8" on top and 1-1/4" on the bottom.  I'm trying to figure out how to replace the fork with a more common 1-1/8" straight steerer.

The head tube measures 42mm top and 47mm bottom, and the bearings are integrated. So I'd like to find a reducer sleeve that fits inside my existing bearing and reduces it down to 1-1/8". Not sure if this exists.
Alternatively, I guess I could buy a reducer ring that goes outside the bearing, and a new 1-1/8" bearing.

Then I have to figure out what angle of race I need.  I'm not sure how to measure that on the existing bearing.


texts: Can 'Zefal All in 1' really doall of those: cleaning, degreasing and oiling?

texts:
Can someone tell me if 'Zefal' All in 1 Spray is good for: degreasing, oiling and cleaning? Link

It seems suspicious because it covers 4 very distinct functions in a single spray; eg: Degreasing, Oiling, Cleaning.

What do you'll think?

I just got a beautiful bike yesterday, powerful and smooth pedalling. However, it was very neglected and needs cleaning and rustproofing. However, as a student I don't have a tremendously large budget and this bike needs some other purchases too.


texts:
my wife bought me a used flat bar road bike for christmas. to her a bike is a bike, one size fits all. it was quite ovious to me that it was going to be way to large as it had a sticker on the frame with XL on it, and im 5'5"/ 5'6".

not wanting to sound ungrateful i gave it a try. lowered the seat nearly write down to get the correct reach ( leg straight with heel on the peddle at 6 o'clock.
the stand over brings the cross bar tight into my  crotch, but thats not a problem.

the ct of this bike is 56.5cm
the advised ct for me is 51cm. 50cm/52cm could also work.

so my questons are, can i say this bike fits me.
or am i riding at a disadvantage with this lare frame.


texts: silicon spray to treat porous inner tube?

texts:
A friend of mine claims that porous (very slowly deflating) tires with inner tubes can be treated by the following procedure:

Let the air out.
Elevate the bike so the tire is of the floor (no external pressure on it).
Use a spray-can with silicon grease spray to spray a fair dose of silicon in the nipple. (EDIT: Dunlop/Woods valve with the valve-stem removed.)
Spin the wheel to distribute the silicon and wait 5 minutes to let it dry a bit.
Repeat step 3-4 another 2 times to get the silicon evenly spread along the inside of the inner tube.

The rationale is that the silicon coating will seal the porous rubber from the inside.
(And needs to be applied 2-3 times because the first dose will stick to much to the inside close to the nipple, so it won't make it all through the tire. The 2nd/3rd dose will propagate further as it travels past the area already coated.)

This sort of makes sense at first glance....

Fact of fiction ? Whats your take on this ?


texts: What is causing an intermittent side to side wobble of the rear cogs?

texts:
I am struggling to diagnose the cause of an intermittent side to side wobble of the cogs on a rear wheel. Here's what I know:

Periodically (maybe every 10-15 minutes) during a ride, I experience slippage between gears not associated with shifting.  A glance at the rear cassette while continuing to pedal reveals the cause: the rear cogs are all wobbling side to side, a few mm each way.
The wobble is in sync with the rotation of the cogs: slow pedaling = slow wobble, fast pedaling = fast wobble, no pedaling = no wobble.
If I stop pedaling, coast, and then resume pedaling, the wobble goes away.  I can't say for certain whether the inverse is true: that the wobble always starts after coasting, by the time I notice it, I can't be sure exactly when it started.  Nor can I say for certain that it goes away every time after I coast--I just know that by coasting (even briefly) and then pedaling, I can eliminate the wobble (for a while).
With the wheel off the bike, I have not been able to reproduce the wobble.  There does not appear to be any plan in the hub or the cassette. I have checked that the cassette is securely tightened to the freehub and it is. There is not noticeable play in either the freehub or the cassette.
With the wheel on the bike and the bike in a stand, I haven't been able to reproduce the wobble either. I have tried moving the pedals slowly while watching the rear cassette, stopping the pedals, and re-starting and ran out of patience before seeing the wobble.
I do not believe the whole wheel is wobbling. This is tough to know for sure since I have only witnessed the behavior on the bike, but to my distracted on-the-bike eye, the wheel is rim is rolling true while the cogs wobble.
The hub is a Velocity Road Rear Hub, the cassette is a SRAM PG-970 9 Speed

What are the most likely causes of this behavior? What additional diagnostic or troubleshooting steps would you recommend?


texts: Croozer hitch -- axle quick release lever on the left?

texts:
The croozer manual states that to mount the axle hitch [with the hitch on the left/non-drive side and the quick release axle skewer oriented such that the quick release is on the right/drive side]:

  The quick-release lever must be positioned on the right side of the
  bicycle (relative to the direction of travel). If the lever is on the
  left side, the quick-release skewer must be removed and reinserted
  from the right side

I'm not sure I want to put the QR on the cassette side though :/ . Does anyone know why they want the QR on the right here?


texts: How to wash a hydration pack (not resevoir)?

texts: What's the best way to wash the pack part of a hydration pack (not the resevoir/hose)? Is it just like a back pack: cold water and a little detergent with air/tumble dry low?


texts: A pin punctured my tyre. Should I only replace the inner tube, or patch the outer, rubber tyre?

texts:
Today I managed to run over a flat heat board pin, and my tyre got punctured.

I will change my inner tube tomorrow, because it's not that expensive and I find it easier than patching it up.

My question is: Should I be concerned that the outer rubber tyre was damaged? If so, would applying a tyre patch on the interior of the outer rubber tyre do any good? Or would it make things even worse for the new tube? My fear is that the hole means a weak spot in my tyre, and that the tube would break.

Thanks for your help!


texts: Chain with master link / quick connect link doesn't clear rear derailleur

texts:
Bought a chain with a master link (packaging said quick connect link), it looks just like this:

This bit however won't fit cleanly through my derailleur, it snags on the wall right as it goes onto the first jockey wheel:

First off I tried adding a washer to widen the clearance between the derailleur plates. This helped a little but I can't add any more washers because the screws ain't long enough.
I've tried reversing the direction of the master-link plate, won't work because it hits the cogs. I've also adjusted the high and low screws of the derailleur, to no avail.

I'm afraid that if I try to file down the pin it will make the chain more prone to failure.
Wouldn't it be better to bend the derailleur plate out of the way somehow?

Am I missing something here, did I install something inappropriately or pick a wrong part?

EDIT: The packaging of the chain says 1/2 x 1/8 / 114L, suits most geared bicycles :D


texts: Can you use a 8 speed Shimano shifter with a 7 speed cassette?

texts: I want to use an 8-speed shifter with a 7-speed cassette.  I saw this question, but I am unsure if this would work, since I believe the spacing is the same between a 7- and 8-speed, but the length is not.


texts:
I have Avid Shorty 4 brakes on a cross bike. I would like to use zipp 303 carbon wheels, but I am not sure about brake pads. The brake pads on there now are a combined cartridge and pad set. You cannot replace the pads. Any recommendations on pad holders and brake pads for carbon wheels that would fit well on Avid Shorty 4 brakes?

Thanks-


texts: What are the disadvantages of more suspension travel?

texts: Having some suspension travel is always nice, but what disadvantages are there for the bikes handling as the travel increases? This question applies to both to full and front suspension bikes.


texts: When not used, what gear should I store my bike in

texts: Is there a conventional wisdom to what gear a bike should be left in, when used infrequently?


texts: What is the weight limit for a Cube Aim Pro 2021?

texts:
My Cube Aim Pro 2021 model is being delivered this upcoming Saturday. I'm really happy about it because there was a huge run on mountain bikes, it will be my first.
Now my concern is I'm quite heavy (119kg) and this PDF file says for my hardtail Aim (I got the Pro but that one is not on the list) that a rider weight + bike weight should be not more than 115kg, so I'm way over that.  But on the right it says that the weight limit is 140kg (then I should be good right?)
Now I'm wondering, what is it? And yes I know I'm way too heavy but that's why I'm getting an MTB, I'm going to start with riding gravel roads, no jumps or anything (I live in the Netherlands).
Should I just cancel the whole bike or just ride it? I'm really not sure if it's 115kg max or 140kg max.

Okay! I will only be adding a front and back mudguard, for the rest I won't be adding anything. The 115 is for the bike+rider and the extra 25kg is for lets say a backpack or a kickstand? And that makes 140kg but I wont be adding any cargo backpack or kickstand, only the mudguards.
What would you do? Cancel the bike or just use it because I don't want to destroy it in like a month of riding.


texts: My MTB has currently a Deore FC-617 2x crankset. I am looking what components I need to convert to 1x. Do I need to change the crankset, or simply getting a new chainring for my existing crankset will work fine ?


texts: Native BB30 crankset or adapted Shimano?

texts: I have a bb30 frame, and I need to change my crankset. However, I am baffled by the reviews online if it is better to get a native BB30 crankset, like SRAM Force 22, or an adapted Shimano Ultegra 5800 with the wheels mfg adapter, which I slightly prefer. Would there be any performance or durability losses choosing the adapting way?


texts: Keeping a 2006 Giant SCR 3 on the road - 9 speed to 11 speed?

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I have a Giant SCR 3 which was a freebie from a mate, who had it new.  It's approx a 2006 I think, and I've had it about 5 years.  I've spend a relatively small amount along the way at the LBS, keeping it going.

Due the serious mileage it's seen between the two of us, the following are now clear;

The original Tiagra 9x3 groupset is nearing End Of Life (confirmed by friendly LBS, who don't try to sell me anything I don't need)
The original Alex rims are WAY beyond the wear indicators, although, nothing bad has happened yet!
Braking is now a serious effort on the hands (needs new cables I guess)

As much out of nostalgia for my first decent road bike, I'm tempted to give it a new lease of life.  I have other bikes, but this is/was my go-to commuter, and old enough to lock up in town on a night out too.

I believe the 9 speed is now obsolete in Tiagra?  So do I go Sora 9 speed (Sora in 2019 perhaps similar standard to 2006 Tiagra?)
OR, as I need to change wheels too, is this an opportunity to go to new 11 speed Tiagra?

Am I missing a trick here? Can I just by new cassette, chain-rings, chain, and keep it going...

Thanks all

James

PS: Little bike DIY experience to date, although I am mechanically minded.


texts: Can I get smaller tires without changing my rims?

texts: I currently ride a hybrid that came with 700x32c tires. Can I swap out a narrower tire without changing the rims, or do rims only fit a specific size of tire?   How small can I go before I have to buy new rims?  I hear having narrower tires makes you go quite a bit faster.  Does it really help that much?


texts: Can I change rotor size with disc brakes?

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I have a new bike with 160mm rotors and Avid BB5 brakes. I wanted to step up to Avid BB7 brakes as they seem easier to adjust. The BB7s come packaged with rotor options -- 160 / 180 / 200 mm.

Can I go up a rotor size?
What would limit this? My fork has a brand but the manufacturer's website has no indication of rotor size limitation.
Is there any advantage to going up?

I should mention that this is for an electric-assist bike with 20" wheels.  I do drag a trailer and live in a hilly area, so good/better brake performance going downhills is definitely appreciated.


texts:
I am trying to replace my cassette. I can not use my cassette removal tool as it is blocked by the skewer, so I need to remove it. From what I can see, the skewer is held together by two bolts. I have tried using an adjustable spanner to remove one of these bolts. However, I am finding this impossible because the bolts and the skewer turn together and there is no relative rotation between them.

I think that this problem is similar to the problem described here, and I'm trying out the solution suggested by NFC. I have tried to hold one bolt fast using pliers and using the spanner to turn the other bolt. I have not had success as the pliers slip before I can turn the bolt with the spanner. Is there an alternative solution to my problem?

I have had a lot of trouble finding help because my searches return tutorials on removing a quick release skewer. Apart from the other question I have found a forum post but I did not find it helpful.

This is the first time I have tried to replace a part of my bike. I might have used some terms incorrectly or I might have the wrong idea about the proceedure that I am trying to carry out.

Thanks for any help.

Pictures:


texts: How to remove old style chainring held in by a single nut between bearing and chainring?

texts:
I've got this old school mountain bike, back from 1986.  It's a 5 speed rear cassette with single front chainring.  Make unknown, but has an emblem on the front that says "Concord".  I'm jammed up trying to get the chainring off.  The chainring removal requires removing the crankset as the chainring will need to be slid all the way off the "left" side of the crankset.  It's held in to place with a single large nut around the crank (which the Park Tool HCW-18 3 pointed side is a perfect fit).  To keep the chainring from slipping under power, there's a pin from the right side of the crankset that pokes into a hole on the chainring.  So, relatively straightforward:

Except, the big nut that holds it in place is giving me fits.  It's so tight I can't even figure out if it's right or left threaded!  Since it's on the right hand side of the frame and bearings I figured it would be right hand thread.  However, since it's facing from the frame/bearing side out away (with the chainring out further from the frame), perhaps it's left threaded?

Won't budge with muscle power.  I've also tried tapping the HCW-18 with a rubber mallet in both directions after using PB Blaster on the nut.  No go.  Can't seem to get any motion at all in either direction.  I'm about ready to go at it with my 20lb sledge to either break it free or just plain break it, but would like to have some idea which direction to go first...


texts: How to properly remove bearings from shouldered-axle track hub

texts:
I am trying to learn the right way to remove bearings from a track hub. The bearings are cartridge bearings pressed into the hub. The axle has a ridge that prevents it from being removed while both bearings are in place.

I know there are bearing pullers like this one from Enduro:

But these require that the axle already be removed.

So what is the proper way to remove these bearings? I know that I can just tap the axle out with a rubber mallet and force one of the bearings out, but I think this would damage the bearing.


texts: How to achieve a tighter turning radius?

texts:
I'm having trouble making the rather tight turns on one of the tracks I ride on. I am already leaning inward while I'm turning, but very often either I still can't turn sharply enough, or I lean too far and end up wiping out, especially when I'm turning at high speeds.

So my question is, are there any riding techniques that I can use to help me achieve a tighter turning radius?


texts: Chain Waxing - Strainer / Colander / Other?

texts:
How do you keep your chain out of the muck when re-waxing it?

I've been using this colander:

There's an unperforated section around where it bends at the bottom.

At first I had it in the bottom of my crock pot and noticed there was about 3cm depth of stuff that looked like black miso soup that my chain was sitting in.

I raised the colander up by ~4cm and it's not swimming in gunk, but there's a definite residue of the stuff in the bottom of the colander where the chain sits.

The chain came out covered with wax that was a little grey when wiped off.

I'm considering using this strainer next:

Would a strainer allow hot wax to circulate around the chain but not let dirt settle in the bottom?

I previously tried plant pots but the plastic became so soft during soaking that I couldn't easily remove the chain without stirring up the sediment.

Is there a better way I could keep the chain and the muck separate  from each other while it's soaking?

Thanks in advance!


texts:
I have a 1x 9s setup and am a strong rider, I ride as a courier everyday.

I recently set this up with 2nd hand parts and built the wheels myself. I noticed some slight play (wouldn't really say play, just a very slight delay with engagement) in the freehub but everything else is normal.

It's not all the time, but I can feel a shudder in the pedals, even at low speeds, like when the fender is rubbing the tyre and gives you a sensation of dragging rubber.

It's happened on my previous wheel too before some of the pawls gave up.


texts: Eccentric bottom bracket click clack on each pedal revolution?

texts: Can anyone suggest what this "click/clack" noise coming from my BB might be a result of? It's a Wheels Mfg eccentric, PF30. The bike is newly assembled.


texts: Lockring tool seems to be 1mm or 2mm too small to fit sram 8 speed cassete?

texts:
I'm trying to replace a cassette. I got a chainwhip tool set + two lockring tools. I assumed it would be compatible as it's a 'common' 8 speed cassette from sram.
However after trying this yesterday, the lockring seems a tiny bit too small (though all the grooves seem to line up. But it won't budge with the nut going through the lockring. I even tried to gently hammer it in, but that just left a 'hexagonal' marking on the lockring...
Potentially I need to remove the nut? However there is very little contact area (a few mm) that could occur between a spanner and the nut, unless perhaps it'll come off with very little force (I could give this a try tomorrow).
I did find this thread that seems to mention a similar problem: Is this an unsuitable cassette lockring tool?
However it's not clear in that question on how to determine one from the other?
My main question here is:

What lockring tool do I need?
Do I need to remove the nut?

Actually, this is starting to make sense. In the question I linked, it seems likely that they had a freewheel, and their lockring tool was too BIG. In my case I have the opposite problem, but it seems I have an actual cassette rather than a freewheel. In which case my lockring tool seems to be for a freewheel rather than a cassette..


texts: Air transport of a MTB with hydraulic brakes

texts:
I would like to transport my MTB on an airliner's cargo hold.
What are the requirements concerning hydraulic brakes, do they need to be flushed?


texts: This may depend on the seat post and the fixture, but how deep should my seat post be into the frame? I have a bike that came with a post that is pretty long and I cut an inch off the bottom of the post a couple months back so that I could sit lower, now I'm considering cutting two to 4.5 more inches off so I can get further down on the bike during some technical riding and so that I can pump deeper. How far into the bike does the seat post need to go before stability is compromised? Are there any other risks of having your seat post not too deep?


texts: I weigh around 220 pounds, the weight limit for the bike is 230 pounds, part of my regular ride is a long stretch of compacted gravel, I tend to thrash along being used to riding a mountain bike and the less than a year old Mu Uno has already developed a squeak. Am I going to break it?


texts: What are the advantages and disadvantages of different pedal formats for a recumbent?

texts:
We're reasonably familiar with pedals on conventional bikes.

Flats are convenient for normal shoes
Clips and Clipless provide foot retention and option of pulling up

A recumbent has additional considerations

No way to "rest" the foot on a pedal because your foot pushes from behind nor down from on-top.
Heel strike - just the same as toe overlap for smaller DF bikes, heel strike is where your front wheel/s touch your foot while turning.
Getting started from stopped - pedals are a lot further from the ground so raising your foot in time for the second push stroke while maintaining low speed balance.
Danger of "leg suck" should your foot fall off the pedal and hit the road while rolling.

What other considerations are there for choosing a pedal for a recumbent bike or trike?


texts: How can I tell if my presta valves have removable cores?

texts: I read about valves that have removable cores and that is better for applying sealant. How can I tell if my valves have cores that are removable?  (I don't have the type of the tube, or any other info; used bike).


texts:
Can I use the regular Shimano 2300 shifter/brake levers with Shimano 105 callipers?

I’m looking to upgrade to Shimano 105 throughout but at the moment I can’t afford a full groupset so looking to pick up bargains on eBay.

If I can get 105 or Ultegra callipers will my current levers work ok?


texts: Does the plastic cap on a Presta valve serve any purpose once fitted to a rim?

texts:
I can see the use of the valve cap on a Presta valve when the tube is still packaged (it obviously stops the valve puncturing the tube), but does it do anything except look pretty (or not) once you've fitted the tube to a rim?

I've kept them on out of habit, because I've had problems with sticking Schrader valves in the past when I've lost the caps and dirt/grime has got in there - but the design of Presta valves suggests to me that they wouldn't suffer this fate.

Given that I really need to inflate tyres on a road bike every day, is replacing this cap something I can leave out of my daily chores?


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When I use the adjustment screw to adjust how far the pads are away from the rim,
neither side moves the pad.
Is there a fix?


texts: What affordable rear brake can I get with nut/bolt rather than Allen Key?

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I am looking for recommendations for a rear brake for a road brake. The problem is that I can see plenty of options for the newer 'Allen Key' style but not the older 'nut/bolt' style. I also want just the rear brake rather than a set, drop is 'normal' for a road bike rather than extra short/long reach.
I am not too keen on going second hand because I want a nice new brake complete with pads.
Just to clarify, I am after the second of these two types:

Thanks.


texts: I was trying to determine the longest length I can safely cut my steer tube, then I learned about stem extenders. I have to wonder, if you cut your steer tube to the maximum recommended length for above and below your stem. Is it still safe to add on a stem height extender? Is using an extender any different than merely cutting your steer tube extra long?


texts: Please help me identify this bicycle (Peugot)

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I recently finished a renovation project on a classic Peugeot road/touring bike and was wondering what the model and production year of this bicycle is.

I tried but could not find anything myself. Perhaps one of you more knowledgable in classic bikes could help me identify the model/production year. I've attached a number of photos.

Some additonal info:

Simplex derailleurs
Frame number: y71210232
Atom hubs
Rigida rims

Here is a link to the rest of the images:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1vWegk_w2W92iAWccGJoYzEkW7v3aPSQz?usp=sharing

Thank you very much!


texts: Is it ok for a kid's bike to only have a front brake?

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My wife picked a bike (with trainer wheels) for my 3yo son. It only has a front brake. Having gone over the handlebars once when I was just using the front brake, I'm a bit worried about this. Should I be?

(Now that the bike has arrived, it has a rear coaster brake.)


texts: Should I buy a crank, derailleur, cassette, etc. all from the same company or are the parts of the drivetrain not super specific

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I am looking to build my own bike and was wondering whether the bike and the drivetrain would work better with matching parts or not. I work at a bike coop and it would be much cheaper to be able to use random parts. I want to know if that would be smart or if I should by the parts in a set from the manufacturer (with a price tag if possible). Thank you!
If you need me to be a little bit clearer feel free to ask.


texts: Is it OK to leave my bicycle unlubricated for a day after a hose-down?

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I just cleaned my bike with low pressure water but I don't have any lubricant. I left it to dry in my basement with the window left open.

Is there any chance my bike will malfunction or rust before tomorrow when I buy some lubricant?