texts:
I have some dia compa ac 500 brakes on an old road bike. While the calipers are installed on the bike, with everything tightened, I can move (rotate) the calipers side to side with my hand. I've already searched online and there seems to be a lot of different suggestions and opinions ranging from using loctite to the idea that the hole in the frame/fork is "compromised".

Here's a picture for reference (mine are not exactly identical):
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rFnXZUx3BwQ/TFH3HR5jIhI/AAAAAAAABpI/_VXBnW0Yhdw/s1600/DSCF0446.jpg

The calipers are held to the frame/fork with a metal rod with threads, a (capped) nut that gets screwed in in the "front", and a piece of metal that screws on to rod in the “rear”. Tightening that front nut only seems to add friction between the callipers. So, for example, when I release the brakes, the callipers do not return to their original position. Tightening that piece of metal in the rear seems to make it more difficult for the callipers to move (rotate). I’ve tightened these rear pieces as much as I could.

I have no idea if these brakes have been assembled correctly. One had 2 washers between that front nut and the calipers, the other one didn’t. Are washers even necessary? Regardless, both calipers rotate can be rotated like I described before.

How is this problem normally solved?

UPDATE:

I meant to describe some negative symptoms. Why is it a problem?

It's a problem because they get off center as you brake. You get one brake pad rubbing against the rim as you release the brakes. So in other words, they don't retract evenly. Ideally, I would want the brake calipers to be an even, fixed, distance from the rim (not loose).

I thought maybe it was an issue of friction. I disassembled one and greased it. I also put lube on the inside of the cable housing. This didn't help.

What might also be a problem is the length of the cable housing. In the front, the housing definitely causes the calipers to tend to one side.

It might also be an issue of unequal tension in the spring. I'm reluctant on bending it though.


texts: Is an exercise bike good enough for keeping fit in the winter, rather than a turbo trainer

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I bought a turbo trainer for winter training last year, but the hassle of using it (lugging my bike up the steps and into my narrow apartment, changing the wheel to one with a trainer tyre, setting up something to watch at the same time, getting the bike computer set up right), plus the noise (the NOISE!) whenever I get up to a decent speed, mean I probably won't be using it much.

So I was thinking of getting a standalone exercise bike instead, figuring it will be easier for me to hop on when I feel like it and less noisy.

Edit: (to make it less subjective):
What I'd like to know is what are the drawbacks of using an exercise bike when you're used to riding a road bike?


texts:
My back wheel is giving out a periodic squeak as if the wheel were buckled and rubbing on the brake.  Only, it's not buckled and it's not rubbing on the brake.

It's one squeak per revolution of the wheel, regardless of speed, but each squeak is the same (short) duration even if I move slowly.  It doesn't matter whether I pedal or coast.  The wheel isn't rubbing on the frame and if I gently brake through several revolutions it still squeaks while I'm braking.

I asked a bike shop about it a while back and they couldn't find anything but after all the routine adjustments it went away for a while.  Now it's back.

If I get off and turn the wheel by hand there's no sound.  Even if I lean on it and roll it around it's quiet.  It seems that I need to put all my weight (an my panniers and gym gear) on it to make it squeak.  I guess that's why they couldn't find it in the shop.

My best guess is uneven spoke tension might allow some of the spokes to shift and rub slightly.  I've looked them over and don't see any wear and I'm not sure how I'd make a definitive diagnosis there.

What could it be?  What else can I test?


texts:
I recently broke my Derallieur in my Road bike and I am planning to get a new one online but I dont know exactly which one to get is for the rear Derailleurs of 7 speeds.
thanks


texts:
I know that e.g. bike helmets and child car seat expires, but can't find anything about bike child seats.

There is a manufacture date on mine (Dec. 2014) and it's made of polypropylene (there is this logo on it: , courtesy of wikipedia).

Considering that I took good care of this child seat and that it has never been exposed to a shock, should I still consider changing it, as it has 5 years now?


texts: I have problem with my gears. How can I fix this or where I can find wire like this?


texts: Problem getting to big ring with XTR M960 Shift Lever

texts:
First, I don't think it's a derailleur issue.  I already played around with the barrel adjuster at the shift lever, as well as the limit screws without success.  The derailleur appears to be properly aligned.

I also swapped the inner and outer cables to try to resolve the issue, with no success.

I have a 3 speed front XTR shift lever.  Small and middle rings work fine, but when trying to shift to the large ring, the lever won't click the way it does for the middle ring.  Seems like the lever needs to move a little more before it hits the point where it clicks.

When I remove the shift lever mechanism from the housing (cable loosened), I can get it to click, but when I put it back in the housing, it still won't click in the big ring position, whether there is tension in the cable or not.

Is there some way of adjusting the shift lever itself to control where it clicks?


texts:
I recently started cycling to work, after having been walking the same distance for a couple of years. I used to have to replace my shoes about every six months, because they were too worn. This weekend I replaced my chain, because it was too worn and earlier this year I replaced my tyres, but more because I wanted better tyres than because they were too worn.

After learning about the prices of bike components and how long they last, I started to compare the maintenance cost of cycling versus walking. Most bike parts are cheaper and last longer than my shoes. So is it possible that cycling is actually cheaper than walking?


texts: Is it possible to change my bike standard headset to a internal headset?

texts: Its a non tapered headtube fitted with a standard headset with a 30mmx30mm ball bearings


texts: What's the type of polymer material used in friction bushings in Sram rear derailleurs clutches?

texts: The friction bushing of an (older) Sram rear derailleur clutch is shown below. What type of polymer material are these made out of? I'm also interested to know what friction materials are used in the clutches of derailleurs from other brands, such as Shimano, etc.


texts: Do I need to buy a special stand for my front wheel when using my turbo trainer?

texts:
I have seen available special "stands" (please tell me the correct terminology) to be placed under the front wheel when using a turbo trainer.

I normally just put a copy of the phone directory down on the floor, opened in the middle to hold the wheel in place.

Should I lash out and buy one of the specialised devices?


texts: What regular maintenance should be done to keep the bike in good condition?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How much maintenance?

Everytime I get my biked serviced, it ends up costing me over one hundred pounds (including parts), which is not much less than what I originally paid for it (it's a second hand Marin Muirwoods).  However, everytime I get it back it feels radically transformed.

I accept that parts are going wear out and I will need to get it serviced from time to time, but I would like to increase the time between services, and keep the bike running well for longer.

All I have ever done myself is spray a little oil once in a while.  What basic steps can I learn to do myself in order to keep it in good condition?


texts:
I have been hearing for the past months about twenty nine inch wheels for bikes, and seeing such at the showroom windows and on the street.

Also heard that they have a lot of advantages and a couple of drawbacks.

My question is why now? The diamond frame has been around for ages. I suspect the disc brakes and, later, the hydraulic disc brakes were not introduced right away due to technological limitations. But the size of a wheel is certainly not constrained by technology.

So why is this new fashion emerging exactly now?


texts: What kind of Rear derailleur do i have and what RD should I buy as a replacement?

texts:
I have an old mountain bike (21 speed) and I'm not sure what kind of rear derailleur i have. So far the performance is still okay but I was planning to replace it with my spare RD (SunRun Index) but according to the mechanic it's not compatible. Is there a way that I could still use my spare RD on my bike? if not then, what rear derailleur should i look for? (preferably shimano)
Still a newbie when it comes to bike parts


texts: To what extent am I responsible for stones flicked by my tires?

texts: Every now and then when I ride over a peanut sized stone the tires squeeze and accelerate it to the side at up to 30m/s. So far I have only hit a building and a car which ended up with a scratch. Am I responsible for the scratch? What if someone got injured?


texts: Fit thinnest road tyres (fat ones at present) to terrain bike Outpost GT

texts:
Can someone please decipher into common language this wheel/tire info?
Rough wheel dimns (by measurement) apprx 57 cm largest dia. x 25mm apprx rim width.
To fit H/E rim?
Tyre fitted Kenda K898-005
54-359.
I want to fit thinnest road tyres (slicks?) on these rims.

Please advise ('cos I'm not even sure of the wheel size in lay language)
thanks
Peter


texts: Halfway through changing rear gear out cable

texts:
I stupidly started changing the outer casing on my rear gear without having cable cutter ready. Suffice to say I've messed up the cut and now I can't get the gear cable though the outer casing. My friend is gonna give me his wire cutters tomorrow but I still need to ride the bike to work. Will this be bad for the bike to cycle without the gear being set up properly as long as I don't change gears when I cycle?

Thanks for your help


texts:
I did a ride with a guy who had a bike like this http://www.sandsmachine.com/a_rod_r2.htm

It was a regular road bike (Allow) that you could disassemble and fit in a case slightly larger than the wheels.

He said he used his bike for Triathlons and other riding events.

I am interested in configuring my own bike to work this way (Regular road bike, steel)


texts: Building up second hand frames to resell

texts:
I have built up a bike for myself recently and really enjoyed the process. Now my built is finished, I wish to work/build more bikes. I do not wish to do this full time or as my job, I would just like to work and tinker on bikes in my free time.
Would I be able to make ( small ) profits or even break-even when buying lose parts ( frame, wheels, groupsets, ... ) and building them up myself to sell?
I only wish to work on/build bikes as a hobby, but can't afford to buy and own multiple bikes. Is it possible I can turn break-even or make very small profits ( even $50 or $100 ) after selling complete bikes? I am not doing this to make money, I just can't afford to lose any on it.
! Not taking into account the tool I buy, since I will be able to re-use them on my own bike or bikes from friends. Not taking into account the hours spent, researching and looking for parts or even building the bike up.


texts:
I am about to purchase a 2018 Kona Sutra touring bicycle but I need some advice on how to know which is the right size for me.

My measurements are 174cm tall with a 79cm inseam. I was advised that a 52cm size frame was the right size but I am 18 years old and I still have the potential to grow.

On a 54cm frame the top tube almost touches my crotch but I was told that if I were to grow anymore that a 54cm frame would be perfect and now I am left with the decision on which size to buy.


texts:
Evening, total newb question maybe but it’s driving me mad.

I have a Carrera Vulcan 2015 model which I bought second hand to aid my physiotherapy. From what I can work out by the spec sheet the front derailleuris a Shimano Tourney FD-M190 (I think, I say that as spec sheet says 27.5 inch wheel which is ).

What could I replace this with? I haven’t got a clue and the lad in the bike shop literally said “dunno” and shrugged his shoulders.

Rear derailleur is a SRAM x4 with a 8 speed Shimano cassette (which could do with replacing (I assume all 8 speed cassettes are the same).

Thank you for listening and any help would be hugely appreciated.

Paul


texts: Why are kickstands so much hated by MTB bikers?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Kickstands and mountain bikes

Is it just around my country, or is this a global thing?

Most bikers riding MTB specifically do not have kickstands. They simply drop a bike on the ground, or lean it somewhere, when they need to park it.

Why is that? Is the added weight really that much of a trouble?


texts: Need a well-fitted bike for urban commuting

texts:
I started cycling to work every day. The bike I'm currently using is a mountain bike with a tiny frame and has begun to hurt my back. So, I'm looking to purchase something new. I'll be cycling around a city. My distance to and from work is a 25 mile round trip.

I'm not looking to spend a gigantic amount of money. I'm wondering what type of bike I should be looking at? I really know very little about bikes so I'm sort of baffled by the many types e.g mountain bikes, hybrid bikes, etc.

What would you guys recommend? If it's any additional help I'm male and under 25.


texts: I've dented the rim on my Shimano WH-RS-10 rear wheel. I found the tech doc pdf. I've had wheels rebuilt before but always with rims that were available to consumers. I can't find any place that sells the Shimano rim, nipples, or spokes to rebuild this wheel. I know I can get close matches from other companies, but I'm looking for identical components to match the good front wheel I have. Does Shimano actually provide these components for sale? Would this be something my LBS could order?


texts: Baby seat for stoker's seat post on tandem

texts:
My wife and I used to both commute by bike, and now that our child is old enough to go on a bike, we'd like to do so again. She has already installed a front-mounted baby seat on her dutch-style bike, the kid loves to ride in it!

However, it seems silly to adapt my road bike for a child seat when we already have a tandem bike made for two adults that would offer a much smoother ride for the child in the stoker's position. Is there such a thing as a seat-post adapter to carry a child seat instead of a saddle, or a baby seat that could replace the saddle?


texts: I have a frame that I want to use. It is an old early 80's Cannondale frame. How do I tell what size threaded headset to use? What diameter should the tube be?


texts:
I have a used Stan's NoTubes Neo hub and would like to replace the ratchet ring and pawls. These were once available but are now out of stock everywhere.

Since these hubs, like most hubs these days, are made in Taiwan I was hoping to find the same ring with a different label.

Anybody know what the outside diameter (and thread pitch) is on 30T and 36tooth  SunRingle ratchet rings?


texts: Can bicycle parking stands damage wheels?

texts:
I mean stands like this:

If there is a little bit of wind or someone pushes your bike when they are trying to park, can the lateral forces damage the wheel?


texts: Why are license plates for bicycles no longer used?

texts:
Bicycle license plates were quite common in many countries before, during, and, depending on the region, also after WWII. In Poland, for instance, it was obligatory until the late 60s. I've found that in Switzerland some kind of license plates (Velovignette) were still in use until 2011.

I'm curious why countries retired such regulations, and what are the pros and cons of that situation. I'd like also ask if there are still some countries that require cyclists to register their bikes with some authority and/or are obliged to have insurance etc.

Example license plate below:


texts:
I'm likely to have to commute to somewhere that's less than ideal for security.  The whole thing is less than ideal but it's only for a couple of weeks.

Using using the beater bike I already have isn't an option: it's 23 km under time pressure,  and sometimes I'll have to use the hybrid with child seat (and try to get there in 55 minutes).  I'd rather use the tourer if I don't need the child seat.  In either case I'll take two locks (probably one D-lock and one cable lock, possibly 2 D-locks).  There are some fairly solid iron railings to lock up to, and both bikes are already security marked and registered.

So as an added detterent I'd like to make the bikes look as undesirable as possible -- how can this be done in a reversible way?  While Reduce Resale Value to Avoid Theft? (Uglify) is closely related, the answers there concentrate on permanent approaches, and I'm specifically after something more temporary.


texts: Campagnolo Crank Compatibility 11 speed crank to 9 speed chain/deraillieur/shifters

texts:
I need to replace my 9 Speed Campagnolo Racing T Crank with a new one which uses the power torque system.

Is a 11 Speed Athena (or 10 speed Centaur) crank compatible with the racing t front dérailleur and the 9 speed Chorus shifters?

http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Components/athena_crankset

Bike parts

Campagnolo Chrous Ergopower 9-Speed
Campagnolo Chrous Brakes
Campagnolo raceing t Crank (needs to be replaced)
Campagnolo raceing t front derailleur
Campagnolo raceing t rear derailleur
Campagnolo Chorus Cassette 9-Speed
Campagnolo C9 Chain


texts: Looking at the Osprey raptor 10 or 14 litre hydration packs. Does anyone have any experience with these, and can suggest whether there is a significant advantage in the extra capacity offered by the 14? Will be using it for day-long rides as well as trail centres, so something that can carry tools, phone, food, an extra layer while still being light and comfortable to wear is essential.


texts: Intrepid twenty on speed, getting information and understanding the gears?

texts:
I have just started using my bike casually for exercise and wanted to know the Gears, Front gears 1-3- Back gears 1-7, When do i switch from downhill to uphill?
I was told to keep on 3 Front ad back gear from 2-3 depending up or down hill, and getting the speed i need, not to over work my legs?


texts:
I recently purchased a Fuji Track Classic bicycle. It's meant to be my commuter bike.

I was resigned to using a clip-on fender, but when I looked more closely it appeared that there should be room to mount full fenders on the frame. There's lots of clearance. The front for even has mounting points for a fender.

Is there any guideline for clearance that I should be conscious of? Does it look like it will work?


texts:
My bike (A FireFox Sniper V) has 26x2.1 knobbies. I cycle on urban roads, so I decided to upgrade to 26x1.95 hybrid tyres from BTWIN. But they have mentioned that it is a 1 speed hybrid tyre. Will it work on my 21 (3 front, 7 rear) speed bike?

From India


texts: Choosing a road pedal system - Focus on durability

texts:
What road pedal system can you recommend? They should be durable (pedal and cleats), have no tendency to fail hazardously and work well (a bit of float, support against rotation around the forward axis (unlike SPD), fast and reliable to enter (I can click into RXS faster and more reliable than into SPD, mostly because the pedals are in a predictable angle. I miss the Xpressos more often that not)

I'm especially curious about SPD-SL and Look Keo, since I have no experience with them.

Backstory: I'm currently riding Time Xpresso 4. The cleats wear far too quickly to be acceptable (5 month / 4 Mm to get uncomfortable, after a bit more I rip the cleats out the pedal on hard acceleration). So instead of replacing the cleats I tend to replace the system. I had Time RXS before and switched over to Xpresso because the RXS were good while they lasted (~30 Mm) but one broke and caused a near-accident as well as a nasty scratch from the exposed axis on my shin. I hoped Time had addressed this in newer pedals, since others report the issue as well.

I realize similar question have been asked, but I still could not find one that answers the aspect of durability.


texts:
My bike's quick release seat has been slipping down recently.
I noticed when my (pro) biker friend remarked how low down the seat on my bike was, and helpfully readjusted it for me. Biking became easier. Yesterday, while biking, I noticed that biking was difficult again, so dismounted and checked the seat -- it was way down again.
So I fixed it.....but what can I do to make sure it doesn't happen again?


texts: Are single-speed bikes better equipped to handle cog/chain wear?

texts:
I need to decide between a single-speed and multiple-speed bike.

I usually ride multiple-speed mountain/city bikes in the highest gear anyway (around town). They're not intended for that, and doing so will wear out those cogs faster than the other unused ones.

But I assume that single-speed parts are designed with this more in mind?

Ignoring the other pros and cons of single-speed bikes:

Is it better for the long-term to get a single-speed bike; or is there no significant difference in the longevity of the cogs, chain, and so on?

(Of course it will depend on the quality of the actual parts and how they're used, but let's assume that all parts are from a good, original equipment manufacturer, and are used for daily commuting, ~30min.)


texts: A friend gave me his old bike which I'm fixing up to use. It has no chain and I've never replaced one before so I'm wondering what size I need to buy to replace it.  The Bike is an Apollo Avio, it has 3 rings on the front chain ring and 5 on the rear cassette - from what I've read this seems to equate to a 15 gear speed bike, but I can't seem to find bike chains that would fit that spec... they seem to range through 7, 8, 9 and then 10 speed most commonly, am I missing something?


texts: Pieces of plastic that came with my bike, what are these?

texts:
I've looked into my 6 years old Mountain Bike manual and in the bag with it and all the warranties I found these 5 pieces of plastic, what are they made for?

Thank you in advance


texts: Shimano Nexus 8 speed gear hubs: Difference between SG-C6000-8D and SG-C6001-8D?

texts:
I'd like to build a wheel with an eight-speed Shimano Nexus gear hub with disk brakes.
Does someone know the difference between the SG-C6000-8D and the SG-C6001-8D?
For both, Sheldon Brown says "Three roller clutches, Band brake (? -- none shown in exploded drawing)/brakeless."
Thank you.


texts: Pros and cons of gears in bottom bracket vs. rear hub?

texts:
Since 6 years, I am the happy user of a bicycle with a Rohloff internal hub gear.  German quality squeezing 14 gears and a 526% gear range into the rear hub.  Less known is the newer and equally German Pinion gear, which reportedly has 18 maintenance-free gears and a 636% gear range — all squeezed into the bottom bracket.  Wow.  The Pinion website features the logos of many high-end touring brands like Santos, Idworx, and Koga.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of squeezing the gears into the bottom bracket, as opposed to into the rear hub?


texts: Full carbon fiber 29er suspension mountain bike from AliBaba

texts:
Does anybody have any experience with this bike?

Full carbon fiber 29er suspension mountain bike with Deore XT 30 speed groupset

I'm looking to buy my first expensive mountain bike and trying to decide between this and the Giant Trance sx 27.5. Also, on the bike above, can someone tell me what the rear suspension travel is? Is it possible that it is just 37.5 mm?!

  DT Swiss M212 Rear Shocks - Eye to eye:165m/m, Travel:37.5m/m, Alloy,
  Black anodized, Air, Elastomer negativ spring, Oil damping, Rebound,
  Lockout

I ride on Arabian mountains.. don't do a lot of jumps, but need to climb and descend very rough, dry and rocky rocky sections. Can somebody have a look at the specs and tell me if it is a good bike?

Thank you so much for your help!


texts:
This is my first time adjusting a threaded headset.

After thoroughly cleaning, inspecting and greasing the bearings, I attempted to re-assemble the headset. The piece is interesting in that the lower cup is somehow stuck in the frame, while the higher cup threads on the steer tube, effectively being inverted to what one would expect (i.e. in order for both bearings to be facing the cups, both bearings are seated with the separators downwards and the balls pointing at the sealing). The frame has a race face to accomodate the bearing separator.

I tightened the upper cup until there was no wobble (as strongly as I can by hand and then a quarter of a turn with a wrench). Then I threaded the stopnut. The latter revealed some thread damage upon inspection, and indeed does hold only until certain tightness (maybe a couple of kilograms on a 1/3 meter wrench), then "jumps".

After riding the bike for a day through some road bumps and holes, the headset was loose again, visibly shaking.

Do I need a new headset, or is it more likely that I am assembling the thing incorrectly?


texts:
I just got a Madsen bike for my wife, and now I am looking at how best to transport it.  I have a Suburban with a roof rack.  The bike is 88" long with the handlebars turned, and I don't know if I should try to find a hitch-mounted carrier or a roof-mounted.  Anyone tackled this?

The Madsen Bike is a cargo bike with a large bucket over the rear wheel.


texts: Are bicycle helmets repairable or disposable?

texts: Suppose I wear a bicycle helmet, and I fall hard and my helmet cracks. Do I buy a new helmet or can I try repair the old one with some glue?


texts: How to trim down using Shimano Tiagra front derailleur shifters?

texts:
I have Shimano Tiagra 9 Speed shifters on my road bike. On my front deraileur, when I shift up (smaller chain ring to larger chain ring), I can control the amount my derailleur moves, therefore I can use this to trim the front derailleur going this direction to remove chain rub.

However, how do I trim going the opposite direction?  On my shifter, when I shift down (larger ring to smaller ring), when I press the shifter, it instantly goes down to the next ring.  There is no in-between and I can't control the amount it moves.

Are you supposed to be able to trim going that direction somehow? Sometimes, if I happen to find myself in my larger cassette gears but also my largest chain ring and I'm not able to adequately shift to a different chain ring (maybe going up a sudden steep hill or something), then I get chain rub. But the only way it seems to be to trim the front derailleur in this case is to shift to the lower chain ring, then shift back up to the larger chain ring but don't push the derailleur all the way into place.


texts: Are coarse 3D mesh seat pads effective at keeping your butt cool on a recumbent?

texts:
The seat of my recumbent has a taut 2D mesh back which is quite good at letting sweat through. That can't be said about the ordinary foam pad supporting the ass. There are special "foam" pads which are really more of a 3D mesh and which were designed especially for recumbent seats:

I only know of one manufacturer of such products, www.ventisit.nl.

Does anyone have experience with a pad like that? When you compare sitting on an ordinary foam pad, sitting on a Ventisit and sliding up on the seat so your ass doesn't touch the seat, where approximately is the Ventisit (or any other similar product you know) on this scale?


texts:
When mountain biking with my friends, we sometimes end up tackling a severe up hill over rocky ground.

I usually find I end up putting a foot down first. I'm not sure what's going wrong. Sometimes my back wheel spins and I lose power and stop, or my front wheel lifts up and I somehow lose balance and end up going off to one side.

What techniques can I use to get further up hill before I lose it?

Thanks.


texts:
I have some backlash (free movement) in my body of cogset, so I try to dissemble my cogset to discover this weird body:

I'm trying to find a new one but I don't know how to call it. Any idea how it can be called ?

(Sorry, I'm french, I try to find translation for word, but I hope the picture help)


texts: What types of BB-axle to crankarms interfaces are there?

texts:
On the lowest end, we have the taper/square interface. I believe it is standard i.e. there are no variations in the sizes.

image property of VP Components USA

Then there is the octalink. Actually several kinds of it.

image property of Sheldon Brown

Then there is HALLOWTECH. Those seem to be the "best".

image property of screambikes.eu

Now the questions:

What variations exist of those types and are they compatible with one another. For example, is a V1 BB compatible with V2 crankset?
What other interfaces exist?
Have I properly ordered them in increasing "quality"/"high-endness"?


texts:
A lot of SPD shoes (not SPD-SL) have the cleat recessed into the shoe so you can walk with it. Has anyone found a way to get Look Keo cleats to be recessed so they are better for walking?

I suspect this is not easy due to the way they clip in and the only improving walking things you can do are grip cleats and the cleat covers.


texts: I have a new bike and after a bikefit (it was causing me kneepain) I had to raise the saddle and noticed a crack. I only use a torque wrench and tighten it to 4Nm usually so I can't overtighten (4.5 - 5.5). Can someone tell me if I should be worried?


texts: How much better are ceramic rims at wicking away water

texts: I assume the best advantage to ceramic rims would be the ability to shed water easier due to their relative flatness. How much better are they? Does it make that much of a difference when breaking?


texts: Accessory mount extender for curved bar: stem bolts vs double clamp

texts:
I've recently got a Giant Revolt 0, 2020. Obviously, I need lights for it, so I bought the Spanninga Axendo 60 front light. That is where the story begins :)
Namely, it turned out, that the "straight" section of the bar isn't actually straight, but has a slight angle (like, it's not 180 degrees, but, say 200 degrees). Which means, that when I mount the light on the bar, it illuminates one side of the road, not the area in front of me - quite noticeably so.
My rough sketch below hopefully gives a better idea of what I'm trying to describe.

The problem got me thinking and googling, and I found out about the existence of extender mounts. These seem to solve my problem - almost. So here are my options as I see them:

Extenders mounted via double clamps (like this one). My concerns here:

The angle of the bar will likely interfere with parallel mounting of the parallel clamps

Stem-bolt mounted extenders (like this one). Seems to be the better option for my situation: can be mounted as is, without bending stuff; also such a mount looks significantly more stable.
Concerns here:

will the bolts hold the light?
there are very few of these around, unfortunately

It would be great to hear your opinions and recommendations! Thanks in advance

------------------ UPD ------------------
Much as it hurts my pride to admit it, the light does have the necessary tilt adjustment. Thanks for all the comments nevertheless!


texts: I don't know what kind of bike this is. I need the name of this frame before I trade somebody

texts:
I need help identifying this bike.
I've tried looking up the colors, tried looking up the logo but can't make out what the logo is. Please help


texts: Why do freehub and cassette have only one position that matches?

texts:
When I'm installing cassette on my freehub, I need to make sure that the spaces align correctly. That is, there are 9 splines on the freehub and 9 corresponding splines on the cassette. My first attempt was just to put it in any of 9 positions but then I found out that one groove on the freehub is slightly bigger and the corresponding spline on the cassette matches it. So in fact, there is only one acceptable position. Why is this like this? Why aren't all of the splines the same size?
Naturally, I managed to replace the cassette, so I ask this out of pure curiosity because to me this "feature" seems annoying because I need to look closely to match corresponding splines, so I thought there must be some smart reason for this behaviour.


texts:
Can I install the 33mm tires on this bike => https://www.canyon.com/en-de/road-bikes/gravel-bikes/grail/grail-cf-sl-7.0/2198.html

I don't like the 40mm tires it currently has? I don't have the bike, this is like a before you buy question. Thank you.


texts: Do Kevlar Belts really offer puncture protection?

texts: My local bicycle shop is offering "premium kevlar belt tyres" and are "extremely puncture proof" how much of this is true? Does this "kevlar belt" offer good puncture protection? What does this protect against? Shards of glass? Stones?


texts: Is my local bike shop asking to much money to change a rear cog?

texts:
I normally have much love for my LBS, but I've moved recently and am a little unsure about this new one due to the fees he is asking.

I have a flip flop hub with a fixed gear (18 tooth) cog on one side, and a freewheel single speed cog on the other side. I need the fixed gear cog replaced. As I understand all you need to take this off is a special tool every bike shop would have. I assume the whole replacement process would take all of 5 minutes - quicker (like 2 min) for an experienced mechanic -- is this true?

The shop wants $50 labour to do this. Seems a little steep, I think! Am I right to think that this rate is unreasonably high?


texts:
I am a beginner to riding on road bikes.  A friend has lent me his road bike (Giant) for about 1 month and I want to use it as much as possible before I think about buying my own.  The current seat is absolutely killing me though (I have padded bike shorts already) so I'm thinking of fitting it with a seat more suited for me.

If I get a new seat, is it likely that I will be able to use it on another bike?


texts: If I mount a standard (tube needed) tire on a tubeless compatible rim will it be easier to remove when I get a flat?

texts: I'm running a tube in my tubeless compatible WTB rim and WTB Byway tire and am finding it nearly impossible to break the seal when I've gotten flats.  If I get standard (non- tubeless compatible?) tires, will make it easier to change flats?  Any advice appreciated.


texts: What are the 'parts' to a mechanical disc brake set?

texts: So there are rotors, pads, brake lever, brake cable...I just want to make sure that if i buy brakes I can get all the parts and I'm not missing anything.


texts:
Just bought a winter beater to ride through the winter.  I knew it needed some love but the frame (Giant Yukon) fit well and it was a reasonable price.

I just threw the bike up in my repair stand last night to discover although the brakes were partially working they all have a missing/broken plastic piece (They are missing the plastic piece that is labeled Spring adjuster below).  This piece connects the spring that pulls the brake away from the rim to the frame.

Picture taken from Sheldon Brown's Site.

I was thinking that rather than try and hunt around for that little piece that I should just go and buy a new set of brakes.  I was hoping to get some suggestions.  I was thinking that a set of v-brakes might be a good improvement.  They are a newer (but mature) technology.  I think if I upgrade to V-brakes that I will also need to get some new levers.  I just wanted to double check that they should fit my current bike (ie the pegs are in the same place).

Any other input would be appreciated.  Last winter I rode my mountain bike with disks so I am not excited about switching to rims but I want to protect my mountain bike from salt.


texts: I noticed that many trikes have a basket in the back but I need something much stronger capable of carrying a golf cart battery which weighs about 60 pounds so is that possible to make a custom one capable of that weight or even better, capable of carrying 2 of those batteries simultaneously for 120 pounds total?  Could it just be made out of wood or is metal better?  Do you think having that much weight back there would cause any issues such as frequent flats on the rear tires unless I use super thick tubes?


texts:
I have a problem with the main frame hinge of dahon SUV D6 folding bike.
It is hard (stiff?) and the bike does not fold as smoothly as it should. I am trying to fix it.
But i do not Know how to UNASSEMBLE the hinge joint to fix it.
Is it possible to unassemble it? Can I fix it without unassembling it?
Either way, what tools and lubricants should I use?
I send some pictures


texts:
I'll soon start a rather long trip from Ushuaia in southern Argentina to Alaska in the north of North America. As I'm from Europe (France), I don't really know what to expect about spare parts for my bike in South America.

I'll ride a Kona Rove ST, a gravel bike with 650b wheels and 47mm wide tubeless tires. The train is 1x11 SRAM. How easy do you think it will be to get new tires, gear parts, tubeless sealant and other spokes?


texts: How is the Bikight aluminium chain tensioner installed?

texts:
Bikight tensioner

Is it perhaps installed next to the wheel, in the inner part of the frame?


texts: What do I do if my brakes keep squeaking when I press on them? Do I use lubricant or what?

texts: It’s really annoying in public places when I’m trying to stop my bike. Please explain


texts: Will an Italian threadded headset fit on an English frame and forks?

texts:
I'm currently building a roadbike with slightly dated components and was wondering if a Campagnolo headset will fit on my frame? It's a Holdsworth, so the fork threads are English spec.

I know what size the headset has to be, but I'm concerned about the Italian threading as according to Sheldon Brown:

"Obsolete. Threads are cut at 55 degrees, but ISO or J.I.S. headsets can be used."

And I was wondering how this degree cut in the threads would affect fitting of the headset?


texts: The bolt of my pedal's crank arm broke, what could be the causes?

texts:
It broke while as I started pedaling when a redlight turned green.

In the pics it is possible to see that basically the metal broke! Was it just a poorly constructed product or are there some common causes that explain why this happened (like i should have unmounted it and cleaned the dirt out of the screwing lines sometimes or else..).

I wouldn't want this to happen to my other pedal.

Original pictures: https://m.imgur.com/a/awW3NgK

Thx


texts: How to install geneticbikes.com's chain tug to horizontal dropout with anti-rotational washer and hub gears?

texts:
I have 8 speed Shimano hub-geared bike. When I place the chain tug by geneticbikes.com, the black tud does not fit into the dropout. According to the thread, here, I can use one chain tug to the right without serrated anti-rotational washer and one anti-rotational washer to the left.

The tud does not fit the dropout. I cannot understand where it should be in some hole but cannot understand the mechanics. What is the tud for?

You can see there the anti-rotational washer, being not round while the chain tug is round.

I am unable to find the right position to the chain tug, apparently the black tud behind in the way. I tested and the tug is of the right size to fit the line but it is very hard to find the right position without tilting the chain tug, not found any position yet (not sure whether I need to round the tud to fit it.

[Update] After filing, how to protect the frame from the tug's screws? Tug on the right (chain's side) and the anti-rotational washer on the other side (recommend on the link below, not sure whether it is enough to stop the hub rolling).

You can see how the screws make bad to the frame, how to protect it?

...and here is the picture on the right side, the anti-rotational washer is on the left side. The right side has no anti-rotational washer -- a problem? The fender screw is on the way to put the tug on a very good position, could the fender be placed on the same screw as the rack?

Further information

same question but with incomplete answers here
moz explaining chain tug here, to protect the soft aluminium frame
chain tug to solve a chain slippage problem here


texts: Why is it important to keep bearing sets when greasing a campagnolo hub?

texts:
In almost all cases where hubs are regularly serviced, bearings don't need to be replaced. The general consensus though is to replace bearings after so many thousands of kms. Many posts on the web say a grade 25 bearing is fine to use in a hub.

I have a Campagnolo Record hub with loose bearings (not in retainers). The races and cones are fine and yet the wheel drags slightly at points. Backing off the tension leaves the hub very slightly loose and mostly solves the courseness of the hub. This is what I expect with normal wheels, but not a Record. Why should my Record hub need some slack when the races are precision ground and hardened, and Campagnolo selects bearings to within 1 micron, or about grade 25?

Did the other people who serviced this hub in the past use just any general bearing? New bearings have been introduced by many bearing manufacturers as high efficiency, where they select bearings to within 1 micron. But, in a bicycle hub, it's not so much a matter of efficiency. It's about smoothness and road feel, and loose-ish hubs just don't deliver that.

It seems the answer to my problem now is to either buy a 9+9 set of matched Campagnolo hub bearings or to buy grade 3 Si3N4 ceramic bearings which are manufactured from the same lot. Even better would be if I could size my own bearings to within 1 micron.

Any other suggestions or ideas?

EDIT --------

Just to clarify. When I talk about drag from this hub, I mean when I spin the wheel and rest the axles on my index fingers I can feel and see some movement. On the other hand with a Mavic 500 with sealed cartridge bearings I can lightly tension the bearings and feel no movement when spinning the wheel.

With either wheel mounted on the bike there's no play (without load). So, when I say I backed off the tension of the Record hub it's not something you would normally notice in a setup for a bike, but I've found in riding I prefer my hubs set a little tight. Maybe it's because I tour and carry an extra load on the rear. I tend to push my cornering hard on downhill switchbacks and I find tighter hubs give me more of a sense of hugging the road.


texts:
I know that when a fork stops working plushly, it should be serviced in order to escape permanent damage. When a chain is noisy, it should be oiled, and when it is worn - replaced - again to prevent damage.\

But what about the bearing in a full-suspension mountain bike frame? How do I tell if mine should be replaced? What calamity could result in not replacing them?


texts: What road bike tire pressure is best for speed?

texts:
Is the maximum tire pressure always the fastest on a road bike? I've seen the Michelin chart on tire pressure from another question ("What pressure should I run my Road Bike tyres at?"), but they don't mention whether it is optimized for speed, safety, comfort, or some combination of these.

I have heard that the more pressure a tire has, the faster it goes. But this is not always true on a mountain bike, depending on the road/trail surface. Could it be that a smoother, less jittery ride at 105 psi might be faster than 120 or 130 psi on a road bike?


texts: What non-metric fastener heads are left on a standard bicycle?

texts:
I believe that we've for the most part made the transition to metric on contemporary bicycles -- at least for the tools we use to repair them, am I right?

For example, while many screw threads are still imperial (or whitworth or some bizarre French/Italian/British concoction), the actual fastener heads or shanks are metric. For example, pedals are  9/16" x 20 tpi  but we've standardized on 15 mm for the pedal wrench (or a metric allen). Solid axles might be 9mm x 26 tpi but again we've standardize on 15mm for the nut.

Are there any parts of non-BSO bikes coming off the line where we might still expect to still need a non-metric tool to take a component off of?


texts: Why does a loose pedal destroy the crank threads?

texts:
Can someone cite with sources the process by which a loose pedal pretty quickly destroys the crank arm threads necessitating a helicoil repair?

I'm interested in how the thread on the crankarm gets destroyed in these cases. Shouldn't the pedaling action tighten the pedal back onto the crank if Sheldon Brown is correct?


texts: It fell from the front hub/disc brake/fork area (most likely brake caliper) on my friend's bike which I'm servicing for the first time and I have no idea what they are!


texts:
I'm in the planning stage of building a new bike. This will be a light road bike for city runs and transport. For racing I have other bikes.
I'd like to build the bike from ground up by assembling everything myself. Not sure wether to go for gears or single speed yet, but that isn't relevant to this question:
What parameters would I need to consider when building a set of wheels?
I will probably go for steel rims to get a classic look. I've already found out how to calculate spoke length, and I'll try to find an old fork to mount the wheel on while building it.
The wheel consists of four parts:

Rim
Spokes
Spoke nipples
Hub

Protips on good parts? I guess specially the hub is important. Are there any real difference to cheap and expensive spokes as long as they are not carbon fibre?

What spoke arrangement should I go for; cross-laced or straight. Pros and cons?
In what order do I assemble the wheel?
What is the best spoke tension (given I can measure the torque)?
What tools do I need?

Any general good advice when building a wheel is appreciated as I'm totally unexperienced doing this.
A lot of questions that is. If anything is unclear, just ask and I'll elaborate on it. Thanks in advance.


texts: What is the advantage of a reverse arch suspension fork?

texts:
There are a couple of suspension fork manufacturers that have adopted a fork design where the lowers have a reversed arch.  I can't see that they claim any particular performance advantages for it, although there are some people on mountain biking forums saying they have improved torsional stiffness. Why would that be the case?

Also, how do they compare in muddy conditions, more/less resistance to clogging?


texts: Shimano 105 11 speed rear derailleur won't shift

texts: It happened the last time I washed the bike. It's happened again this time. The rear derailleur won't shift the chain up even though I was careful about not pushing the cog wheel up or down. Last time the bike mechanic sorted out stuff but I can't do this every time I wash the bike! What has happened and how do I re-adjust the derailleur after every wash?


texts: Modern road bike 8 spd vs 9 spd - what are benefits and is it just about the speed?

texts:
I am a little struggling on whether to go with the 8spd or 9spd models for my very first entry level road bike. Based on the spec, which I surveyed among the following bikes, the 9 spd model is almost identical just as 8 spd model. However, I was wondering if there's more benefits or differences than just the speed.

9sp

Bianchi Via Nirone Sora
Bianchi Nirone Dama Sora
Giant Contend 1 (tubeless)
Specialized Allez Sports

8sp

Bianchi Via Nirone Claris
Giant Contend 3
Specialized Allez


texts: If you keep a bike inside for months in a row, do you have to check it?

texts: For example, if you keep it in a garage or in basement, I am thinking the tires might lose air and then the wheel will pressure down the tire. So do you need to check the bike once in awhile and inflate it?


texts: How are these trikes able to spin around backwards?

texts: I found a video of some trikers who start out going backwards, but spin around to moving forwards (watch just the first 10 seconds). As best as I know, my trike can only go forwards. How is such a trick achieved?


texts: Converting Sram Force 1 to Sram Force 22

texts: I am buying a Sram Force 1 groupset with a new bike and I cannot test it before buying. In the case I really dislike the gearing steps issues, how difficult/costly would it be to convert to Sram Force 22 which has two chainrings?


texts: 2 questions: What bike is this? Also is this front wheel too big?

texts:
I found this bike one morning near my house and figured I'd bring it home to work on it/restore it. But I have no idea what make/model/year it is and I come asking for help. I can make out the word "SINTESI" on the side but that's about it. I tried to take a picture of the brand marks that were still visible but mind you, none of these may be stock. Also I stuck a 700c wheel on it and I was wondering if it's too big?

Cheers


texts: Is this cracked rear derailleur safe to use

texts:
So I've been building up a late 80's steel frame to a modern 11 speed, but still using downtube friction shifters. After doing a few runs up and down my street all felt OK so I decided to take it out on it's maiden voyage.

A couple of miles down the road however something didn't feel right, after pulling in to a cul de sac to try and see what was wrong I was testing going up and down the gears a few times when the pedals jammed. Luckily I was going quite slow and managed to jump off. Anyway it appears one of the jockey wheels became jammed between the spokes. I'm guessing I may have offset the H limit screw too far or something?

Anyway the damage is it's cracked the housing of the rear derailleur hanging bolt (see below). Is this safe to use or should I get a new one?


texts: Is there difference between a Shimano HG200, 11-36, 9 speed VS HG201, 11-36, 9 speed?

texts: Is there difference between a Shimano HG200, 11-36, 9 speed cassette and a HG201 11-36, 9 speed cassette?


texts: I’ve noticed some wear in my mtn bike tyre sidewalls.  Is this serious or can I get many more km from them?


texts: How can I make it clear to other road users that I'm an inexperienced cyclist?

texts:
I'm in my mid-20s and I'm currently learning to bike, on my own, as I don't have anyone to teach me. My goal is to be able to commute to work when I want to, be able to travel to nearby towns, and more generally to get over the frustration of not knowing how to bike.
Practicing turns, signals, maneuvering and the like on an empty parking lot is one thing, but I figured if I wanted to do the above, I'd have to actually get on the road at some point, so I've begun biking in the city. I had no extremely close calls so far, but I'm occasionally given "weird" looks by other road users, or honked at. When it's cyclists or pedestrians, I explain that I'm currently learning and ask them what I did wrong; folks are usually receptive ("we've all started somewhere!") and describe what I shouldn't have done, what I did by the book but they didn't expect me to, etc.
However, I can't stop motorists, and shouting "SORRY I'M NEW TO THIS" is unlikely to be heard, and more likely to be misheard as an insult. I have no way of knowing whether I was honked at because I was doing something dangerous, or the driver was just annoyed by me biking slowly, as my current average speed is about 10 km/h (6 mph). At the same time, the driver has no way of knowing whether I'm a cyclist unconcerned by road rules, or just an inexperienced one: people will make the natural (but wrong) assumption than mid-20s me being on a bike means I know what I'm doing.
I'd like to have something to make it blatant to other road users that I'm a newbie. My goal here is twofold:

Motorists being a bit more cautious around me (though they should be to begin with, since as a cyclist I'm more vulnerable than they are)
Not harming the cyclist community by having people think stuff like "cyclists are jerks who behave like they own the place, just look at this one".

Since I'm mostly thinking of high-speed users here, it should be something that can be seen and acknowledged in a second or so. For instance, in my country, young drivers (driving license obtained less than 3 years ago) have to stick an "A-disk" to their trunk:

I've thought of patching one up with a white cloth and red marker, but I'm not sure it's the best thing to do:

I'm not sure how I could make it stay on my backpack;
I have very long hair (it reaches the middle of my butt), which I have trouble keeping tucked under a jacket while biking. I'm afraid my hair may hide the A-disk;
I've never seen a cyclist with one, so I'm not sure motorists would understand it's a serious thing and not some kind of accessory.

What else could I use, or how could I improve the A-disk idea?
Some precisions, if relevant:

Location is a French city with more than 30k inhabitants. From my inexperienced cyclist's point of view, it has a decent amount of bike paths and bike lanes, and the car drivers seem pretty patient (compared to the "cyclist nightmare situation" I've heard of in the biggest cities like Paris, Marseille, etc). I'm careful of taking the routes I've judged to be the most cyclist-friendly, but there are still cars (i.e. danger) on them.
I have a helmet, a bell, a (weak) front light, a pump, side and back reflectors. I am thinking of buying a rear light and a high-visibility jacket.
I can signal but only with my left hand.
I can't bike while standing up on the pedals (yet).
I don't have anyone to ride with me, and I can't attend the biking lessons given in my city (I'm at work when they take place).

I've searched this site for beginner signal, inexperienced, without success; and Googling variations of this question's title only bring up results about learning to bike as an adult, what to think of when biking in the city, etc, not this specific point about "beware the newb" signalling.


texts:
A friend said me that if you have one part in a very bad condition like a cassette and then you put a new stuff like a new chain it will destroy the new stuff very quickly. A LBS said that I should change my derailleur's pulley wheels after I said that the derailleur has undergone at least 10Mm. Then again, another LBS said that I should change only the cassette and the old derailleur pulleys do not matter. Hence, I am very confused. Are there any objective ways to state when one should change derailleur pulleys?

The diameters of the pulleys in the picture are about 3.6cm above and about 4.0cm below. They seem like the products here. Cannot find the specs of the original ones to compare, yet.


texts: Crank Length 165mm or 170mm? mixed views

texts:
I have been doing a lot of research into crank length, I have a 172.5mm crank which I find my knees come up too high, and sometimes I get a bit of back pain. I have a Scott Speedstar 2017.
I am 175cm tall, and an internal leg length of 78cm. I looked at the following video:

             which was invaluable but, I find I am around 164mm for a crank when using the 9.5% of my height.
should I go down from 172.5 to 165? or just move down to 170mm? as was said at the end of the video, "Modern bikes are designed around 170 to 175mm long cranks"

should I goto 165mm or 170mm long cranks? I know I need a shorter crank, just how much shorter is the question :)

Thanks! :)


texts: How much does a front wheel last with disc brakes vs calipers?

texts:
I've read that the calipers end up "eating" the rim. How many km in the city or touring (with a normal use of the brakes) does it take to destroy a rim? Is it something to worry about?

Considering that I already have calipers and I'm planning to change the wheels in the future in the range of 500€ (both)... If I change to disc brakes I would have to change the fork, buy the front disc, probably add weight...

I want to have a bike reliable with really low maintenance both in money and time which can do a lot of kms, would changing to a front disc brake save me money and time in the long term?


texts: Are CO2 cartridges feasable for use on fat bike tires?

texts:
Are CO2 or other portable cartridge style devices feasible for use on fat bikes with tires 26x4.5" or greater? I know there are large 20g or 40g cylinders available?  If so, what sizes of cartridges would be appropriate?

Though, I'm sure it might be good to have a pump as a backup as well in case you run out of cartridges.


texts: Approximately where is the center of mass of a mountain bike?

texts:
Take a "standard" multipurpose bike like this one: http://www.islabikes.co.uk/bike_pages/beinn29.html (Weighing 12.2kg)

I'm conducting a physics investigation, and for this I need to know the approximate location of the center of mass of the bike, or any similar bike for that matter. (Are there any sources for this?)

Now, before you holler at me about it being impossible to determine, too many factors etc, I just need an approximate value, precision isn't too important.

Thanks!


texts:
I use Google for mapping out long distance tours in areas I don't know. Often it takes me on gravel roads. I can't tell from the app that is not really road bike friendly till I get there. This can really mess up my plans (since I may I have to back track and go around adding hours to the day and getting to my camping destination.

That said - any favorite apps for bike travel - camping? Maps?  (I do have warm showers!  Love it for emergencies!)


texts: Crank threads stripped - both pedals fell off

texts:
Something really strange happened to me - 2 years ago I bought a bike (Carrera Gryphon Hybrid from Halfords). I had just about 100 miles on that bike the month I bought it and than I locked it to a covered bike stand. I now tried to use it again but within a mile the left pedal came off. I tried to go on with the other pedal and after another mile it came off, too.

First thing I noticed is that one of the pedals must have not been screwed in till the end (thank you, Halfords!). The other thing is that the threads seem stripped. Here are the pics:

Left crank:

Right crank:

Right pedal:

Left pedal looked similar but I just scratched with my fingers and was able in just a few  minutes to remove much of the stuff that filled the threads:

These metal rings were what came off when cleaned the threads of the right pedal:

So, given that it was relatively easy to get the stripped metal off the right pedal I am thinking of cleaning the cranks and the other pedal and of trying to just screw in the pedals. However, I am a bit worried - if it was so easy for them to come off (OK, one of them was probably not screwed in till the end) what is the guarantee that putting them back in will last? I know, it doesn't cost anything to try out but I don't want to subject the threads to additional wear if there is possibly a better solution. I was even thinking of maybe trying something like a thread lock (e.g. locktite) but wanted to first ask for advice before I do something that I might regret.


texts: Pain in right leg, related to asymmetric leg position?

texts: I've been cycling two years now and have only just noticed mainly from using my new turbo trainer that when I'm pedalling my left leg is about 1" or so from the top tube whilst pedalling but my right leg is 4-6" away from top tube. Ordinarily this wouldn't concern me but recently I've been getting a lot of pain in my right leg from my hip downwards. Could this be my problem and does anyone have any thoughts on what to do, get bike fit?


texts: Why does my right Achilles hurt when I use my Sidi S Pros

texts:
My right Achilles has been hurting when I ride with my $300 Sidi S Pros, which I bought a few months ago. I don't want to waste my money by not wearing them when I ride. How can I fix my pain in my right Achilles ??????
Please help if you can.
Thanks


texts: Right Shimano SPD pedal clicks on down stroke

texts:
I recently bought Shimano SPD pedals for indoor cycling on Zwift. I have not had them very long at all maybe a month.

Every downstroke I hear a loud click on my right pedal. I thought it may have been the cleat in the shoe because the position looked different than the left shoe. I made them match but I still have the issue.

My pedal:


texts: How do you estimate the speed of Tour de France riders on tv?

texts: I was watching Tour de France with my father (who is a cat 3 racer), and he claimed to be able to estimate how fast the riders were going by observing the cyclist on the screen. I didn't believe him at first, but as we watched, and the screen showed their speeds, he was fairly accurate. How is this done?


texts: How much space do I need between my tire and brakes to change from 700x23 to 700x25 or 700x28 tires?

texts: My concern is that the actual one (700x23) is quite close to my brake (about 3 mm). It's safe for me to buy a 700x25 or 700x28? I would like to have a slightly wider tires.


texts: Brake lever compatibility between disc and v brake

texts:
I bought a used bike that had no front brake lever or caliper.  I am putting this one onCaliper
and am wondering if I can use a lever from a v brake.


texts: How feasible is it to transfer modern (2010) components to a 90s frame (road bike)

texts:
My 2010 aluminum frame may be toast (stripped bottom bracket) and I was considering getting an older chro-mo frame and transferring the components to it.  It's a racing/sport style with drop bars and 24 speeds.  I'm an beginner/hobbyist bike mechanic, I have the basic tools and can take a bike apart and put it back together (given enough time ;)).

If I remember correctly some time in the past road wheels were commonly 27".  When did they switch to 700mm being the common size?

(I ride for leisure and exercise about 50 miles/week.)


texts: Replacing a rear wheel bicycle axle. How should I do it?

texts:
I bought a second hand bike a few weeks ago.. sadly the rear wheel axle broke. I want to replace it, but since the bike is a little old (maybe 30 years old. it's a monark, a swedish known brand) I'm not sure if that's possible.
Also, I've never done this before, so it's not very obvious what should be done.

Since I moved here a month and a half ago and don't really have any available tools.. can I get away with only a wrench and/or a cone wrench? what else is needed?
I bought a new axle from a shady shop where the dude told me that if it doesn't fit he can exchange it for something else.. but I'm not very confident about this.

here are some pics:

What do you think?
Thanks!


texts: Using a cassette and derailleur with different sprocket/cog specifications

texts:
I am trying to make a cheaper (500ish) bike work with a Tacx Flux (2018 version). According to their website, the Tacx Flux only supports 8-11 speed cassettes, but my bike has a 7 speed freewheel (14-28T) on it. So I looked up and found out that I am able to use a 4.5 spacer to fit the 7 speed cassette on the Flux's cassette hub. However, all the 7 speed cassettes that I found online have 11 or 12 teeth top cogs, while the  derailleur on my bike requires a 14 teeth top cog. I was thinking of just replacing the top cog with a 14t one, but I couldn't find a way to just replace one cog in a cassette. I am new to this stuff and wasn't sure if my understanding of the situation was correct. The Shimano website states that the top sprocket max and min for my derailleur is 14T (https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY200-GS.html) Does this mean that I have to use a 14-28T cassette for my bike to work or am I understanding this incorrectly?
Thank you in advance!


texts: What skills must cyclists master to succeed at racing?

texts: In addition to power, stamina, endurance, what skills must you master to succeed in professional cycling?


texts:
I don't have a clue what happened… Got the frame this way.

Mountain bike is Lapierre Zesty 2014.


texts: why has my fox rear shocks adjusting lever popped out?

texts:
as i put in my title my fox rear shocks mode adjuster and rebound adjuster has popped out and exposed a little metal ball, I can no more adjust my rear shock but don't know why this has happened.
Can anyone help?


texts: What model/make are this Freewheel and Freehub?

texts:
I am in the process of overhauling my old Motobécane racing bike and I'd like to replace the freewheel, if reasonable. However, there is no indication of who made it (the bike shop couldn't help) and I've never seen a hub like this online.

The Freewheel has a lock ring with splines on the outside and I'm wondering which tool to use to screw it tight on the hub.


texts: Choosing mudguards for carrying a bicycle in a small lift

texts:
I am in need for mudguards for a bicycle I bought.

Here is a link to the bicycle's description: Speeder i8 The bike is a flatbar road bike, with an internal hub and roller brakes.

The bicycle is always carried in a small lift where it is positioned vertically on its rear wheel because of space limitations.

The mudguards I see in stores that would fit this bicycle have a problem: they are of "full length" and cover the wheel part that touches ground when positioned vertically.

What I need is something like these shorter fenders.
However, most fenders sold are larger, like these.

Are there any pre-made solutions?


texts: Which is safer: country road vs highway?

texts:
Asking the park ranger about my planned itinerary, her answer was to take, instead, a 4-lane divided highway with wide shoulder, the argument being that it would be safer than using 2-lane/little-or-no-shoulder country roads. Adding that "people drive like crazy" on country roads.

I've heard the same argument offered by a park ranger at another location.

I personally hate riding on highways, because of the noise but also because this is where the occasional narrows (e.g. bridge, overpass) appears to present more hazard potential, and based on the impression that the difference in traffic volume makes it more likely that a DUI/sleepy driver might hit me.

Anyone would be familiar with a source that would offer some indication of the probability of serious or fatal injury suffered by a cyclist as a function of the type of road?

EDIT

As much as I appreciate the sensible opinions expressed below, I couldn't find any evidence to support the impact of road type on hazard.

The closest that I found is a statistics from the UK comparing built-up vs non built-up fatalities and serious injuries for various types of vehicles. The proportion of incidents affecting cyclists vs motor vehicles driver/passengers is the same, irrespective of the road type. Same for A vs B roads.

Another way to look at this question - none of the reviews on the etiology of cycling mentioned the type of road. Mentions were made about the hazard posed by intersections (car attempting a right turn while a cyclist overtakes on the right; failure to obey stop or light) and dooring.

Sorry for not providing links to sources - I am on tour and using a phone to post/edit


texts: How do I align my front brake disk with the caliper?

texts:
I have manual Avid disc brakes.

I took my front wheel off like I've done hundreds of times. When I put it back on the wheel is aligned properly with my fork, but the disc presses against one of the brake pads. This causes a lot of squeaking when I simply roll the bike and a ton of friction that will eventually destroy the brake altogether. This really isn't making sense to me other than the possibility that the caliper just isn't aligned properly, which seems practically impossible because all you do is screw it in.

I have tried adjusting the sensitivity of the brakes to the point where the problem pad is off of the disc. Then the other pad is so far out that I have 0 braking power when I try to apply it (other than a little friction from the problem pad). Can anyone please help me?


texts: SRAM Rival 1x: Hestitant shifting in middle of cassette when going to larger cogs - causes?

texts:
I have a few months old bike with SRAM Rival 1x. I have changed the cassette (to get closer gear spacing) and chain and can get the rear derailleur to shift almost perfectly swift and accurate both ways - apart from around the middle cog and onto the next one or two larger cogs. Here the shifting often can be, but not always is, hesitant or even not working, making the chain rub in-between cogs.
I have sized the chain by the standard procedure: Around largest cog and around the chainring bypassing the rear derailleur and then adding three inner and three outer links plus the powerlink, that is, a few links more than the four links recommmended by SRAM.
Since the bike is quite new and hasn't been out in mud or heavy rain, that is, the issue would not be lack of cleaning.
What could cause these problems with shifting at that particular point on the cassette?


texts: As the title says, where can I get this type of chain guide? My chain falls off exactly at the bottom side of chainring when I'm making bigger jumps and this would be the perfect solution for that.


texts: Burping v/s bleeding hydraulic disc brakes: is it safe?

texts:
I found a method for burping (get the air out of the circuit) hydraulic disc brakes in YouTube (see here). The method is:

1) Rotate/move the hand lever assembly until the reservoir cap is facing up and at level.

2) Take off the reservoir cap.

3) Slowly squeeze the lever repeatedly, until no more air bubbles come off.

4) Refill the reservoir with brake fluid.

5) Put the cap back on and return the lever assembly to his normal position.

To me it looks far more simpler than the standard procedure, and can be used in an emergency on the road (Obviously, it doesn't apply for replacing old fluid).

What problems can you see with this method?


texts:
I recently acquired an older blue Motobecane Mirage with a great frame and paint.  I have stripped it all down and salvaged everything I can (frame, front wheel, handlebars, front brake) but now I'm left with a quandary.

What type of bottom bracket/crankset/rear wheel will I need?

There is something bizarre about the bike so I've read but I can't find a solid answer.


texts: What is the purpose of spindle with longer non-drive side?

texts:
I've just discovered that Shimano has 107mm and 110mm spindles in their BB (square taper) -- the first one is symmetric and the second one is asymmetric. I have read why BB spindles are right-asymmetric (longer) -- chainring clearance -- but Shimano released such BB that spindle is longer on the left side (i.e. non-drive).
I don't get it -- all the trouble with clearance is on the drive side, so once you have given length, you make it double. Where is the need for longer left-side of the spindle?


texts: Alfine 11-speed - what is needed to install it? What are common problems when installing?

texts:
This is an expensive and heavy hub but I'm looking to build a new wheel and strip the rear derailleur off my old Trek MTB. It already has a fixed Ritchey carbon fork and front disc and is a nice commuter, I just hate the grindy noise of a gritty derailleur so I want it gone to create a low maintenance wet weather bike. In the summer it's this, unmodified. Both bikes get a complete strip, clean and lube when they need it but I want to cut down on the time spend doing that - the IGH-carrying Trek will go out on wet days and the road bike in the sun.

I've googled plenty on this. There just aren't many pages up though, and none I can find that gives the whole fitting process. Shimano's PDF installation instructions are pretty dense and don't point out the important bits that a real person would need to know. I've read enough about performance to know it isn't perfect (and I would probably prefer a Rohloff) but it's going to solve my muddy, gritty bike path problem.

Buying it from an Australian store is pretty much out of the question given that it will easily cost hundreds more - importers gotta eat I guess but not at my expense and not at such a ridiculous markup. Sheldon Brown's pages, among others, have me keen to buy all the parts and build the wheel myself. Ordering all the parts is the time gate and failing to order something that later has to be sourced will lead to a frustrating wait of more weeks and paying an extra large shipping cost while another order is placed.

What I need to know is exactly what is required to fit the Alfine system to an existing bike. The hub is sold as one unit, the shifter another. The chain ring is sold separately too. Then there are one or two different small parts kits available which seem to be harder to get.

What will I need to buy (part numbers if you know them)?

What parts will be troublesome to fit?

For those of you that have experience installing these: Have you used one of these hubs and did you go through the process of sourcing, fitting and adjusting this hub yourself? What did you improvise/overcome/improve during your fitting? When done did you feel you had done it perfectly? Compare the complexity of this task (Alfine system and adjustment) to a conventional derailleur...

edit: if what you are looking for is a grease-free solution for your belt-drive bike, these are not questions you should be asking. Alfie 11 hubs leak oil and make your belt just as greasy as a chain. I'm hearing from many people "mine too". One store tells me the extra tension on the sprocket when using a belt with this hub makes leaks all but inevitable. Shimano have had mine twice for extended periods for service and can't fix it. I am massively disappointed in this product, wish I had bought the 8-speed that uses grease rather than oil bath internally.

2018 edit: Spot Acme still running nicely, but now with drop bars, TRP Hylex brakes, new wheels. I've given up worrying about the Alfine 11 leaking oil on the belt, it's inevitable.


texts: What parts do I need to replace for my bike?

texts:
I have a MTB (2000  Giant  XtC SE2) with a frame size of 17.5 that I haven't used for 10 years, I was a 5 ft 6 inch and 130lbs back then.

I'm planning to use it again , I'm currently at 6 ft 1 inch and weigh 200lbs.

Which is more practical? Upgrading some parts of bike or getting a new one?


texts: Any knowledge on LaFree Electric Bicycle?

texts:
I have this LaFree Electric Bike, all I really know about it is that it was made by Giant.

I am an Electrical Engineering student and I am looking at bringing new life into it, would it be worth updating to more modern standards? Any information on this bike is greatly appreciated!


texts: Is it a bad idea to take a commuter bike for a 50 - 100km ride?

texts:
I'm a reasonably new rider so excuse my ignorance, but I'm thinking of taking my commuter bike for a 70km ride some time in the near future.

I have recently been on several 30km rides without issue and recently had my bike serviced and adjusted.

The majority of the ride will be in light traffic and there is a shoulder where cyclists regularly ride, so the main concern is not safety. I also consider myself fit enough so fitness should also not be an issue.

So what are the negative aspects of doing this?


texts: Is there anything special about rotor bolts?

texts:
I fitted a new rotor to a new wheel yesterday (6-bolt) and didn't have any spare bolts so borrowed them from another bike.  As I go to buy replacements, is there anything special about such bolts?  I know they're generally Torx button heads, but  I can buy them in steel, titanium or even aluminium.

They're not expensive, and they'd be useful elsewhere on the bike (I'd get stainless) but I prefer socket head screws in general because I don't always have a T25 on me, depending on which tools I'm carrying.

So is there anything special about the material or shape?


texts: How to install flat mount road disc brake calipers on IS mount bike?

texts:
I have custom MTB frame and I bought a pair of Shimano Hydraulic road shifters.
They have on Shimano BR-RS505 Road Hydraulic Brake Calipers Flat Mount when instead my frame takes standard IS 51 mount (+adapter of course for it).

What kind of adapter should I use?
I have noticed that this kind of calipers use a front adapter mount and it might work on the back too...

Thanks for your help!


texts: How do I identify the manufacturing year of a Surly frame?

texts: I am looking at purchasing a used Surly Pacer. However, the owner is unsure of the year (he also bought it used). Are there any visual cues that I can use to identify the year of the frame?


texts: Shimano R7020 shifter broken - no audible click when shifting

texts:
I have had the shifters for about a year and they have only been used moderately on my road bike. I was changing gear prior to putting it on the turbo when the right long shift lever went 'slack'and it would not change gear any more when trying to move to easier gears on the rear cassette. It felt like the lever had reached the stop limit and there was no l,konger any audible click. Moving to harder gears with the small lever still worked fine.
At first I thought the cable may have snapped but this was still intact. After a lot of fiddling I decided to take the shifter off the bike completely. I then removed the rubber hood cover and the small cover plate on the underside of the shifter.
I took out the gear cable just to make sure it was not fouling anything up in the mechanism. I also gave it a good flush through with silicone spray as I know old grease and debris can cause problems.
Once clean I spent some time looking at the mechanism and found the following;

when the shifter is held upside down it seems to work properly and a small silver flange engages with the splined cog as you press the big lever across. It shifts up one gear at a time without problem and there is an audible click each time.

when the shifter is turned the right way up i.e as fitted on the bike, the small silver flange drops downwards slightly (as per photo-left of picture) and no longer engages the splined cog. The lever therefore just pushes right the way across instead of moving the gears one at a time. There is no audible click. I did try refitting the cover plate to see if this held the flange in place but no joy.

It seems like the silver flange should be under some kind of tension to hold it in place as gravity makes it fall downwards and away from the splined cog. I assumed maybe a small spring or something had broken. I therefore ordered a brand new shifter and found after fitting it to the bike the exact same thing happened.
Anyone else had the same problem or am I doing something wrong in the fitting process?
Photo attached showing silver flange on cog.


texts:
I cycle 20 miles total per day, on 3 or 4 days week, commuting between work and home.

Will this get easier? as stupid as it sounds.

I start work at 6:30am and can't drive so I cycle until I can afford a moped and cbt training (?). Right now I find it mega hard in the morning.

I bought a new hybrid bike with slick tires etc. I go at easy pace and take about 50 minutess each way.  I suppose I am looking for encouragement as will need to do this for least another 2 months. And I have a few heavy inclines to battle also.

I am 32 and not really fit.


texts: Ultrasonic cleaner advice, for cleaning chains before waxing

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I'd like to avoid solvents, or use less solvents when I re-wax my chain.

Are there any features I need to have in an ultrasonic cleaner?

I've seen unheated 700mL cleaners for ~$30 USD and 2 to 3L cleaners with 80 degrees celcius heating starting at ~$90 USD.

My current chain cleaning process is

Boil chains in some water and wipe the melted wax off onto a rag.
Soak chains in solvent and agitate. I always see some metallic particles in the solvent after I remove the chains.
Hang & wipe dry the chains.
Soak chains in melted wax.
Take chains out of the wax pot when the wax starts to form a skin, wipe the excess wax off.

Could I get away with a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and pour in boiling water + maybe a little detergent instead of using the solvent I currently use to clean my chains?


texts:
I heard a grinding noise from the rear wheel on my mountain bike. I took out the quick release and saw that it's full of dust. Before my last long ride, I serviced my rear hub by removing the cassette, re-greasing the ball bearings, etc. I did not open the free-hub body, but I did remove it to get to the bearings.

I flipped my bike upside down and took out the quick release. The sound went away when I removed the quick release, but came back when I re-inserted it. It was also quite a tight fit. Is it normal for the quick release to become dirty on the inside? Should there be seals somewhere? Can I put grease on the quick release after cleaning it?


texts:
One month has passed since I fell on a mountain bike trip. The accident wasn't critical, it just left a huge scratch. The accident happened during a fast descent when my front tire hit a little crack.

My problem is that I don't feel confident riding descents anymore. My mind gets afraid and it impacts my riding. What should I do?


texts:
I recently got a Brooks B17 and am having trouble finding a comfortable angle. If it's level, I tend to slide forward. If it's angled up to the point where I don't tend to slide forward, I feel pressure on my perineum. A worrisome amount of pressure.

I haven't had such an issue with other saddles (plastic based saddles with cutouts).

With the Brooks I've compromised so it's angled slightly up, slight tendency to slide forward, slight pressure down there.

Q: I'm hoping when it breaks in the tendency to slide forward will be reduced, that my sit bones will create indentations that reduce the forward slide. Anyone know if this will happen? Any tips?

It's a touring setup, saddle about as high as the bar tops.


texts: Bottom Bracket for Trek Crossrip Elite 2014?

texts:
I am planning to upgrade my group set to 11 speed 105 along with the bottom bracket. However, I have no idea what type of BB should I get and brand.
If anyone could help me that would be great?


texts: Why are is my 7 speed chain drive slipping? in the lower gears

texts:
I've  noticed when I ride in 1st or 2nd gear that the chain drive slips then engages then slips again.Especially when going up ridiculously low grade inclines, such as ramps at crosswalks.
What is causing this issue and how do I repair it?! This is on a 7 speed adult tricycle.


texts: 1970's Gitane please help identify the model

texts: Does anyone know the model of this bike?  Where do I look on the bike to find out?


texts: List of tools to take apart a bike to minimise space for storage

texts:
I have a bike that I would like to take apart to store for the winter. I live in a college dorm and don't have much space. What are the basic tools that I would need to take it apart?

I think taking apart the wheels, pedals, and handlebar will be enough.

Ex: Screwdriver, wrench

The bike is a Trek 7.2FX


texts:
I'm not quite sure what size my spindle is on my giant downhill bike.

I bought it a while back and it hasn't caused any problems. I've only recently taken up making it look good.

All I want is 2 new crank arms to put on it but I'm not sure how big my spindle is in diameter or length. Is there an easy way of measuring it?

I've measured the diameter: it seems to be about 18-20mm but I think it has a sleeve over it that's about 24mm. The length of the shaft is about 110-115mm. If anyone can help me and tell me what size it probably is I'd much appreciate it. I know there's not too many sizes out there in spindles so it has to be a normal size I think.


texts: Aluminium front and carbon rear wheel on hardtail?

texts:
I recently got a used hardtail MTB. (Specialized Epic Elite)
It's got Roval SL Control 29 - which is pricey. The front has 24 spokes and back has 28 spokes.
Now I want to install a dynamo on it and found out there are not many dynamos for 24 spoke wheels.
And I'm not sure If it's a good idea to use 24 spoke wheel on a long distance (I asked a separate question for this
I stumbled upon a aluminium wheel with SONdynamo built into it
Does using the Hunt wheel (aluminum) on front and carbon wheel on rear makes sense?  Buying another Roval carbon 28 spoke wheel and building dynamo on it myself would cost me probably 2.5x the price.
Should I stick with carbon on front as well at least even if it's not the same model?


texts: What does that "LL" mean, stamped (along with the length) on my Mountain Bike's  Shimano BB spindle?


texts: Difference between wet and dry chain lube

texts:
I was in a bike shop recently asking for dry lube, and the sales guy told me that the wet/dry distinction is just one that Finishline uses for their product lines, not an actual distinction between chain lubes in general.

However, other bike store folks have told me that there is a difference, and that wet lube can be applied less frequently, but will tend to collect grit and sand more, while dry lube is less adhesive to that stuff, but must be reapplied more often.

Are any of these right or close to right?


texts:
I need to replace the rim tape of my back wheel as it's pretty damaged and it's popping my wheels all the time. Finally made sense of the cause and I'm in need of a replacement. However, I'm unsure of the size that I need.

My wheel size is: 37-622 (28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 - 700 x 35C) HS297

Now I also measured the width of the rim tape manually and it's roughly 2cm.

These are some of the amazon results of rim tapes, but I'm not sure which one fits my bike:

https://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=rim+tape

Your help would be highly appreciated.

EDIT:

Pictures of my rim: Rim 1, Rim 2


texts: Front wheel lifting on climbs on my Mountain Bike

texts:
I've got a full suspension XC/AM 29er mountain bike (Gary Fisher Hi-Fi Pro). I'm running a size small frame with an 80mm stem with about 7 degree rise.  Bike seems like a good fit for me. I do run the seat a touch lower than optimal for more room to move on sketchy sections (no dropper post) but still not so much that my legs scream on flats and climbs.

However on a lot of climbs, even ones that are not super steep, my front wheel seems to pop up quite a bit. This makes me have to foot down unexpectedly when the climbs are rooty or rocky. I try to get as close to the bars as possible when I'm digging hard, but I feel like something might be better done with bike fit than bike english.

What should I try to set up the bike to avoid this?  I switched from a slightly longer 90mm stem due to the feeling I was going to OTB on sketchy terrain, so I don't want to play with lengthening the stem much.

Things I considered:
Raising seat (would require a $$$ dropper since I'll need to lower it for sketchy sections).
lowering stem (I've got about 20mm of spacers to work with below the stem)
Flipping the stem (not sure what this will do to handling on steep descents)

What's going to be the most effective way to change the setup to avoid or reduce the lifting effect?


texts:
Following up on my original wheel issues question, I went to see my local cycling store to tell them about my problem.

I want to change rims and would like to have them support tires from 23 to 28mm. My frame is a hybrid one, perhaps a bit on the MTB-side, so I originally have a 17mm wide rim (supporting 25-38mm tires).

I did not have a lot of time but the guy said there were no rims to fit my needs and that at best I would be able to comfortably run on were 25mm tires...

Was there some kind of misunderstanding between us or was he making a valid point?


texts: Invested too much in my car! How can it be worth cycling to work?

texts:
I am a promoter of cycling in general, especially for commuting to work. Convincing people, especially motorists, to cycle to work is a challenge. Most understand the benefits of cycling, even if its only a couple of days per week. Health, well-being, money and the environment are definite pros. Let's be honest here. For those that commute via bike, MONEY saving, compared to a car, is a big plus.

Everyone's situation is different (distance, weather, work changing facilities etc..). Several motorists are fond of the idea of cycling to work, but most stop there never take any steps to put it into action. The thought is fleeting, despite most people owning a bike. Some people are plain lazy, but for others it just isn't feasible.

For those who are lazy, they can usually provide some justification. Time, weather, showering at work, bad roads, no cycle lanes etc...

However there is one argument that I have come across that is compelling.

  "I have spent so much on my car. Tax, insurance, petrol, servicing and the car itself. I can't justify riding my bike into work if I'm investing so much money on my car in the first place"

For the motorist that says this, is there any appropriate response that offers a solution to their predicament that encourages this person to cycle (even if it's just one day a week?)

My first approach would be to outline the health benefits, but for some, money talks.


texts: Dawes Galaxy OLN and horizontal dropouts

texts:
I want to build up a steel framed commuter/light tourer/utility bike with hub gears.

A Dawes Galaxy from the 1990s era looks about right to provide the frame.

But I want 135mm rear dropout spacing (for hub gears) AND semi horizontal dropout (for chain tension).

Looking at bikes I'm getting the feeling that I can't get both. It looks like Dawes went to 135mm OLN at the same time as they went to vertical dropouts. I think all 8 speed (and above) rear cassettes were 135mm.

Anybody shed any light on this? Thakns


texts: which power meters will work with a sram cx1 group set and a bb90 bottom bracket?

texts:
I am thinking about getting a new bike but would like to keep using a power meter but can seem to figure out which ones are compatible with sram cx1 and x1 groupsets.

Its for my cyclocross bike so pedal based power meters are out of the question.


texts: Cannondale carbon synapse rear cassette size increase.

texts:
I'm a 66 year old, 6 ft 3 inch (190cm)  18 and 1/2 stone (117kg / 259 lb) biker !

I own a cannondale carbon synapse with a 32 tooth cassette on the rear wheel that was okay for Mont Ventoux climb last year. This year our group of skinny bikers ( I'm the heaviest by 4 stone) are planning all the passes in the Lake District over 4 days.

Can I put on a 36t cassette without changing all the front chainrings and chain as long as I keep the same number of cogs on the rear cassette i.e. 8?


texts: Damaged pedal threads on crank arms, having a hard time finding a replacement, what do I do?

texts:
I have the Vitus Nucleus 27 vr, but I recently broke the original plastic pedal on it after I hit a rock and so I replaced it with another set. The problem is I completely overtightened and damaged the thread on both cranks.
I need to replace the cranks, however every website I try to buy just the cranks, I am met with either having to buy the whole crankset or just being able to buy the left crank for some reason. Also I'm very concerned about the compatibility between all the components.
So what do I do?
Thanks in advance.


texts: 9 speed chain doesn't fit 9 speed cassette

texts:
In all my years of working on bikes, this is a first. Bought a new 9 speed KMC chain and 9 speed cassette to replace a worn 9 speed drivetrain recently (single chain ring). Went to put everything on tonight, except the new chain is way too short -- even on the smallest cog the derailleur is so stretched I'm afraid turning the cranks will rip it off the hanger.

Comparing the new chain to the old chain (also a 9 speed chain, in case it isn't clear) shows that the new chain is about six inches shorter. I don't know how many links are in the old chain, but the new chain supposedly has 116 links and the highest link chain I can find on the internet is 120. I've never had so much difficulty overhauling a 9 speed drivetrain before.

Can anyone explain what the hell is going on here? I've got pictures on my phone I can include if the description doesn't make sense.


texts: is it possible to put a bigger than 34t chainring on Merida e160?

texts: Is it possible to put a bigger than 34t chainring on a Merida e160 MTB? There is only about 2mm of clearance from the chainstay.


texts:
For my goals, I am looking at a Kestrel Talon 2015 as it fits my price point and I like the combination of road cycling or switching to tri fit (albeit jack of all trades but master of none).

I am now trying to figure out if the Kestrel will fit my body dimensions (following the Eddie fit). From what I've read, sure being able to stand over the bike is important, but it seems the effective top tube length is most critical. I know the best advice is to try the Kestrel out at a LBS, but there are none near me.

I followed the measurements on competitivecyclist.com and here are my specs:

Your Measurements
Inseam: 75
Trunk: 62
Forearm: 32
Arm: 55
Thigh: 54
Lower Leg: 48.5
Sternal Notch: 137.5
Total Body Height: 166

The Eddy Fit (cm)
Seat Tube Range c–c: 49.8 - 50.2 cm
Seat Tube Range c–t: 51.2 - 51.8 cm
Top Tube Length: 50.8 - 51.2 cm
Stem Length: 9.1 - 9.7 cm
BB–Saddle Position: 63.2 - 65.2 cm
Saddle Handlebar: 48.5 - 49.1 cm
Saddle Setback: 4 - 4.4 cm

For the Kestrel Talon, here are the specs. I'm stuck between the 48 cm & 52 cm frames.

I think the 48 cm frame's top tube, the effective top tube length is 51 cm, which is I think very close to what the Eddy fit says.

I think I'm leaning more towards the 48 cm, but not too sure if I'm missing something obvious.

Thanks!


texts: CB Roubaix upgrade to Shimano Tiagra - brake problems

texts:
I installed the new Tiagra brakes (4600) to my Claud Butler bike following the accompanying instructions. I've also installed new Tiagra levers.

There is not enough adjustment in the brakes to allow the pads to sit on the wheel rim. On the front, the pads are half on the rim and the other on the tyre. The rear brakes don't extend to the rim at all. Are the brakes just not compatible with by bike?

The existing components were a mix of Sora and other bits (RPM crankset).


texts: Where (UK) can we rent an adult tricycle or recumbent tricycle

texts:
There are a lot of cycle tracks (mostly old railway lines) in the UK that have bike rental, however very few of them have adult tricycle or recumbent tricycle.

Does anyone have the list of where you can rent an adult tricycle in the UK?


texts: I'm getting a new bike and i'm wondering if a Shimano TX50 front derailleur is good enough and will do the job or should I get another bike which has an acera, FD-M390 front derailleur. Thanks in advance for ur help!


texts: Steering in pivoting boom front wheel drive recumbent bike

texts:
I am a student pursuing BTech from new delhi. I am undertaking a project in which I am required to build a recumbent racer bike and then compete in a race.

Last year, I built a rear wheel drive short wheelbase recumbent bike but I found that it had an inefficient drivetrain due to which I could not win the speed event of the competition.

This year I am planning on building a front wheel drive short wheelbase recumbent bike. Since there is a problem known as heel strike in the case of fixed boom front wheel drive, I am more favoured in building a pivoting boom type front wheel drive bike.

With this type of a bike, I am concerned about its slow speed stability. I will be required to clear slalom sections in the race for which I need easy steering at slow speeds.

Will it be difficult to steer at slow speeds given the crank rotates while steering?


texts: Which way does this ring go on the left crank of this Shimano deore hollow tech external bottom bracket crank?

texts:
On the inside of the left crank there is a small ring. The picture shows where the ring is meant to go.

The ring is smooth / flat on one side. The picture shows the flat side which seems to have been rubbed silver by friction. The flat side seems to be made of metal.

The other side has a raised ridge on the inner circumference. The raised ridge has a rubber/ plastic feel.

What is the correct way to install this ring?

(Please excuse the low resolution images. It's the best this phone can do.)

Update

It's possible that I previously installed this ring the wrong way and that's perhaps why the one side is polished. The ring seems to fit best with the ridged-side towards the bearing.