texts:
Suspension forks typically have a bridge which connects the two lower legs. In the past, this also provided a hanger for the rim brakes. I always thought though that the main purpose was to ensure that the two legs remained parallel in compression, so that there was no torsion on the front axle.

I've noticed some MTB suspension forks that are bridgeless. In these systems what prevents the legs from compressing at different rates and twisting the axle? Can we broadly say a bridgeless suspension is weaker than a bridged one?


texts: Differences and effects of brake lever offset

texts:
I've seen some flat bar brake levers where the the pivoting plane of the lever blade is offset and not in line with the center of the handlebar's cross section.

What's the purpose for such design? Are there any effects or noticeable feeling between a centered-blade design and an offset-blade design? Is it done for optimization in hydraulic brakes?


texts: Rebuilding wheel using 284mm instead of original 281mm spokes?

texts:
I bought a new rear hub, same exact size as old, original spokes were 281mm however spokes i bought by mistake are 284mm, can i still use them to rebuild? I have deep double walled rim with lots of extra space for the spokes to stick out, however spokes have thread smaller than the spoke diameter and spoke does not screw past spoke cap, so i don't know where the extra length will go?

Spoke caps i bought are not same length as original, bought two variants - first is longer and second is shorter than original spoke cap, does it matter?


texts: I'm wanting to get a new fork for my bike but I have a sealed bearing hub (not sure what axle size, 5mm or 9mm) I was just wondering can I convert a sealed bearing hub to a different axle size? (15mm or 20mm thru axle)


texts: How to get enough leverage to remove pedals when their cranks are not attached to a bike?

texts:
I'm trying to troubleshoot a weird barely-felt click on my cruiser. The nest step of the process is to swap out the pedals and see if the problem goes away (if not, the problem is likely the bottom bracket).

I've replaced pedals before, own a good pedal wrench, and know how to remember which pedal has reverse threading. I was surprised to find that I couldn't get my only spare pair off the cranks--they were removed from a bent frame for me by a shop, an currently live in a box next to the frame I'll eventually hang them on. I usually grip the crank opposite to the one I'm removing a pedal from, but I can't get any leverage with just one crank!

TL;DR/ The question: How do I get enough leverage to remove the pedals from these free-range and short mountain cranks?


texts:
I have just replaced my disc brakes with avid bb5s. The braking is fine but there is a severe shudder, especially when braking hard. Any ideas?

Thanks for your responses but I have solved the problem. The online parts store provides only one bracket for front or rear. The front brake actually requires a shallower bracket, so the pads were skipping across the cutouts in the disc. The LBS was able to supply me with the proper bracket and the shuddering went away.


texts:
Did anyone take apart the replaceable battery of the Expilion headlight?
I assume it contains a 18650 like battery, but some have a protection circuit built in and some not.
Any knowledge about the type of battery? The lamp might even fit a thicker battery with higher capacity.

If I mill off the bottom part of the holder, can I pull out the battery, or is it tightly molded into the plastic shell?


texts:
For this question, I'm referring to bike lanes of the type shown here:

To me they seem like a really bad idea.  Firstly, one of the lanes is going against traffic.  In this instance, the cars turning left at the intersection have to look behind them to see if bikes are coming from behind. Also, it seems that it would be really difficult to pass another cyclist if the path was busy, since the only way to move around another cyclist is to go into the opposite lane, against the traffic of the other bikes.  The only advantage I can see over regular bike paths is that for the most part you are cut off from the cars.  However, I've never had a problem with cars using "regular" bike lanes. Are there any studies as to how well these lanes work?  Does anybody have any experience with these kids of bike lanes?  How do you like them compared to other types of bike lanes?

Part of my concern is shown in this video (skip to 2:50).  The lanes seem to move really slowly, and there seems to be a lot of people in the wrong lane completely.  It seems like it would be nice for people taking a leisurely Sunday ride with the kids, but if your actually trying to commute and get somewhere in at a reasonable speed, it seems like it would be impossible.


texts: Dealing with very juddery cantilever brakes

texts:
I'm a commuter with a ~13m daily round-trip. I've been riding this on an MTB for 8 years, but I'm looking to upgrade. I recently tried out a 2012 model Specialized Tricross; this having been recommended as a road bike that retains the commuter niceties  (rack/mudguard mounts, etc) and can handle the light gravel tracks that form part of my route.

I love the bike, but I found one fundamental problem: The cantilever brakes set off this (initially) terrifying judder under pressure. On one downhill section, I couldn't brake enough to stop accelerating without this vibration running through the whole bike (and me), massively increasing my stopping distance. As a commuter in Oxford, being able to stop quickly and confidently is a must; something I've always been able to maintain with the V-brakes I'm used to.

Back at the shop I was told that the judder is something that all CX bikes share, and that it might have been accentuated by the fact I was on a fresh bike on wet roads.  I've also read that softer shoes and toeing in can help reduce the level of vibration, but that nothing can be done to remove it completely.

So, can anyone point out a way to address this? Is it something I'd simply have to get used to, or have I just picked the wrong kind of bike for my needs?

EDIT

Thanks to 'grivooga' at Reddit (via Cyclo), this is an ideal description of the issue:

  What happened is that the fork blades and
  your headtube flexed. Just a little but enough to change the distance
  between the brake cable stop and the brake arms. This caused the
  brakes to pull harder. Something had to give, either the tire will
  skid, the brake pad will skip, or you'll go over the bars and crash.
  In this case the brake pad skipped on the rim. That released the
  pressure momentarily the frame and fork flexed back then the pad
  caught again and the process repeateded. The whole process happens
  very quickly, many times a second.

I'll try one of the recommended fork-mounted hangers, along with some better toe-in and maybe softer compound pads.

EDIT2

For future readers: After a couple of telephone discussions and a short wait, I took it out again with a fork-mounted hangar attached as shown:

The red circle shows roughly where the original hanger was situated. With the drop significantly reduced, all I feel now is the occasional soft vibration, and only when I lean fairly hard on the front brake. Enough of an improvement that I bought the bike.


texts: How does this work? "Rotor BB30 to 24mm Steel Road Bottom Bracket"

texts:
I'm looking at ways to make a Claris/Tourney crankset fit a BB30 frame.

I've seen that a "Rotor BB30 to 24mm Steel Road Bottom Bracket" is one of the options to make the two sizes work together.

When you look at the suggested BB for the Claris, for example, it has the octalink axle for the crank arms to attach to. The Rotor product does not. Is it an adapter that the standard BB goes inside, or does it work differently?

Thanks.


texts:
Since we have a lot of questions asking about buying a used bike, I thought we could do a community wiki on how to buy used bikes as a be-all, end-all.

There are a few main questions:

1) How do I check if a used bike is safe to ride ?

2) How do I assess the value of a used bike?

Feel free to add others as answers, one question per answer.


texts: Freewheel vs cassette geared hub motors serviceability

texts:
With ebike conversion kits there appears to be 2 types of rear hub motors: the ones that accept a cassette and a freewheel (see the image below from this aliexpress item)

Is the freewheel option more serviceable?

I mean when I'll be replacing the freewheel I'll be replacing worn out sprockets together with the ratchet mechanism.
Whereas with the cassette option the ratchet mechanism comes with the motor and I'll be only replacing sprockets and if there's a need to replace the ratchet then I'll have to replace the whole motor or is the freehub part with the ratchet that the cassette attaches to also replaceable?

Or is the freehub on the image above just screws on top of the freewheel attachment threads?


texts: Getting local businesses to install bicycle parking

texts:
I live in the far southern community of Nashville, Tn. If any of you know Nashville, it is very late to the bicycling movement. They have some good efforts currently but they are focused in the high rent downtown areas and super cool East-Nashville.

The fact is cycling is much better where I live but there are a lot of older people who would not think of cycling the half mile to the store.
 I have this idea that if we could get all the retail and mall owners to switch out the parking benches for smokers to bicycle parking, it might make the prospect of cycling more inviting.
Anyone have the experience int heir community where bicycle parking was soundly embraced?
How did you do it?


texts: How do you protect the underside of your brooks leather saddle?

texts:
I'm new to leather saddles and I'm working on breaking mine in. I'm using a Brooks B17 Narrow.  I use clip on fenders with my bike when the weather is bad. However, sometimes I get caught in the rain, or hit puddles on otherwise dry days.   I know that I need to apply proofide to the top of the saddle to protect and condition it, but I'm not sure what to do about the underside.

What strategies are recommended for protecting the underside of your leather saddle?

Would applying proofide to the bottom be appropriate to help protect it? Other suggestions?


texts: Failure statistics of carbon fiber vs aluminum mountain bikes?

texts:
I've read a lot of carbon fiber vs aluminum debates. The anecdotal evidence for one being better than another is not very interesting to me. I'm interested in the statistics.

Does anyone know where I can find actual failure stats for mountain bike frames? How many warranty repairs per year for each type vs sales volume, for example? Anyone work at a bike shop that can share the average number of people coming in per week with broken aluminum vs carbon fiber frames?


texts: Tandem drivetrain--right side front drive

texts:
From what I am reading, there are 3 attested tandem drivetrains:

1) crossover drive, with timing chain on the left, and main crankset and drive chain on the rear right. This seems to be most common.

2) Crossover drive, but with the main crankset and drive chain in the front instead of the back. This uses a very long drive chain, but has lower frame flex and better chain line.

3) Right side drive, with the main crankset on the rear. Right side drive has low frame flex, low weight, and low width.

What seems to be missing is:

4) Right side drive, but with the main crankset in the front. This would seem to combine the width , weight, and flex advantage of right side drive, with the chainline advantage of front-crossover drive. However, I have never seen it.

I'm building a tandem with no front derailleur, And I'm concerned about frame flex and weight. I'm thinking about trying it. I will just use small sprockets for the sync chain and a larger sprocket for the front/drive chain. Will it work? Anyone ever seen this done? Any problems?


texts: Do you think I can put road bike handlebars to this bike?

texts: Im new to bikes so I just want to ask a question. Is it possible to put a road bike handlebars on this bike. And if it is do I have to get a new stem also or just the handlebars?


texts:
I have a 18 speed mountain bike. (Huffy)

I recently had my rear derailleur replaced along with new shifters.

Shifting in the lower gears is smooth and there is no noise when pedaling.

However, when I am in the upper gears, there is a "clicking" sound.

What adjustment can I make to eliminate that sound?


texts: Alfine 8 crunching/grinding in highest gear

texts:
I have recently bought a bike with an Alfine 8 hub and it was working well for the first week or so. Then there was a couple of gear drop outs whilst I was riding so I made sure to line up the yellow lines at the back.

Since then I've experienced a horrible noise coming from the lowest (easiest) gear whenever I put any reasonable weight on it. If I use it on a perfectly flat surface and peddle slowly then it's quiet but as soon as I try to pedal with any speed the hub starts making this grinding/crunching sound.

Moving the lines slightly OUT of alignment actually reduces the noise but causes problems with other gears.

Should I be sending this hub back to Shimano?

I've attached an image of my yellow lines lined up.


texts:
I was doing some maintenance on my road bike. I took the front wheel off, removed the quick release skewer from the wheel, set the wheel aside, and put a drop of tri-flow on the skewer to lubricate it.

When I returned to the wheel to reinstall the axle I knew the quick release goes on the left/non-drive side of the bike's fork due to previous pictures I have taken of the bike. However, when returning to the wheel I had set down, I cannot remember which side of the front wheel was the "left side".

My main concern is that while I have the quick release in the correct position relative to the fork, did I accidentally flip the orientation of the wheel? The bike has v-brakes so I cannot reference a disc to make sure I am returning the wheel to it's original orientation, and it has slick tires that do not have a "rotation/directional" arrow.

The only comparison I can make is that when looking down from a top view of the bike towards the center (right in between the spokes) on the hub the word "prowheel" reads from left to right in the middle of the rear wheel. So I installed the front wheel also to match the word "prowheel" reading from left to right.

Essentially I want to ask if it makes sense the way I returned the front wheel to the bike? Can you even put a front wheel with a slick tire and no disc brake restriction on "backwards"? Does my logic make sense with returning the wheel to match the wording on the front and back inner hubs?

Thanks in advance for your time, let me know if you need pictures to make what I am trying to describe more clear.

Joe

Update: I wanted to add a few pictures so I am making it more clear.

Thank you! One slight edit to my post is that the hub says "Chosen" not "prowheel."

Yes, here are pictures.

Picture 1 is a picture of the wheel and slick tire.

Picture 2 is the orientation of the wheel in which I perceive to be correct,
I put the quick release skewer into the front wheel with the handle to the left with the hub writing saying "chosen" reading from left to right when looking down at it.

Picture 3 is the wheel flipped 180 Degrees and installed and what I perceive to be incorrect, the quick release handle is still to the left but with the hub writing of chosen is reading right to left/upside down which I think could be the wheel on backward / to be incorrect.

Picture 4 matches the orientation seen in picture 2 with the rear wheel. It was my way of comparing the front wheel'S orientation to the rear's and seeing that chosen is written the same way from left to right when the front wheel is in this orientation.

Hope the pictures help! Let me know if I have it correct in picture 2 or if it still doesn't matter either way! Thank you.


texts: How to get tight tire on rim of a road bike

texts:
I have been having trouble getting a fresh tire onto a road bike wheel. The tire is "continental Grand Sport race 23mm" and the bike is a scattante road bike. I have looked at tips and watched videos including this one

but the part I am having trouble with (currently) is the first bead, which everything seems to skip over, saying it is "easy."  I have tried it both with inflating the tube somewhat and trying to put on the tire with the tube already in it, like in the above video, and just the tire itself. I make less progress with the tube.
I can get the tire about 6/8 or 7/8 of the way around and no amount of pushing, pulling, and general finger destroying will get it on.
Is there anything I can do?
Thanks.


texts:
I noticed the other day that my frame has a crack in it! I believe that it's my seat post causing the problem. A couple of questions really, a) how serious is this? and b) can it be repaired?

Edit: I've added a picture of the height of the seat-post to give some extra context on whether or not the frame is too small for me. I've never thought that the seat was crazy high or anything; is it?


texts: What are the possible upgrades for a 40-year-old Bottecchia 10 Speed?

texts:
I have a 40 year old Bottecchia (entry level model) that I took for ride yesterday after letting it sit for 20 years. Just inflated the tires and oiled the chain and off I went.

The tires and brake pads obviously need to be replaced and I was thinking of getting some cross tires for some dirt road and short trip riding, but yesterday's ride reminded me how bad the old derailleurs were and the huge gap between gears.

Some components had been upgraded (wheels, cotterless crank) but I'm wondering what gear clusters I can use without changing wheels.

I'm also open to other ideas ... other than making it a fixie.


texts:
I trued my wheel yesterday a bit, since many spokes lost some tension. Once I finished, all spokes were quite rigid.

Then I put the new tire on and as I was inflating it, I heard the spokes loosen up, with a typical cling, as heard while truing. The tension adjustment seems to have gone.

The tire was indeed hard to put on, but after inflation it fits the rim properly, no part of the tire is sunk inside. The pressure is also correct, 0.4 MPa (the max pressure allowed being 0.45 MPa).

In theory, the inner tube expands equally strong in all directions, so also inwards; however I have not observed visible contraction of the rim so far, even in the cheap $15 models.

Maybe a wheel should be trued with the tire on?


texts: Fitting question for first trekking bike - differences in stack and reach

texts:
I understand this might be a pointless/dumb question, but as an bike freshman, I am confused:

Trying to select an entry level first bike (cross/hybrid) and so far I'm between two of them (local EU brands)
I'm 176cm, inseam 74cm. For the first one, i fit better on their 18'' model and on the second one on their 19''.

I tried both of them on a LBS but unfortunately not for an extensive ride - just a tour around the block. However, their frame geometry is quite different,  having:
Stack:518,2 mm
Reach:383,5 mm

And  having:
Stack: 497,7 mm
Reach: 394,6 mm

I enjoy upright riding position and I favour stability and comfort more that speed. With these in mind, am I wrong to assume that the first one is a better option for me? Will the difference be too noticeable?

Thanks a lot.


texts:
I have just test fit my wheel on a Litespeed T5gravel that I'm building and I see there is less than 1mm of clearance between the rear rotor and the chain stay. The rotor is currently a 160mm avid Centerline, and I'd happily move to a 140 but from what I can tell you can't go down a size with this frame (the brake mount is part of the frame and seems to be built for 160).

Maybe it is fine but it is so close it seems like it will start rubbing even from thermal expansion. See the pic for what I'm talking about.

Any advice?


texts:
I tried upgrading to some 28mm but as you can see clearance is very tight. In some spots, the tire doesn't fully clear the brake (Tektro R350). The fork barely has enough clearance.

Is it worth trying to get an extra mm or 2 with a different brake? I searched around and I saw Tektro has long-arm options, but it's not the arm-length that's limiting, it's the shape of the top of the brake itself. Any brake recommendations? (already read this post - I'm hoping to stick with Tektro or any other fairly inexpensive option, and I only need the front brake.)


texts:
Was getting a sort of rubbing sound from my front wheel, like rubbing brakes, but the sound continued even with the bridal loose.  So I disassembled my front hub.  Everything looked good until I got to the cones.  One has a rather noticeable line worn by the balls (more so than I've seen on other bearings), and the other has what I would call a spalled spot in addition to the line, with a rough, wavy area for maybe 15 degrees of arc.  The cups, on the other hand, look factory fresh.  This is a Shimano RSX hub.

Any idea what would cause this?  The hub has 25-30K miles on it, but has been overhauled twice.  The sound came up over a period of maybe 100-200 miles riding.  I don't go off-road and I don't jump curbs.

Anyway, since the cups look good and the rim probably still has another 10-20K of life left, I'm thinking of getting a new hub and just swapping the cones, vs replacing the hub or buying a new wheel.  Any reason not to do this?

More info:  I took a closer look at the cones.  One is not really that worn -- there's just a barely-perceptible mark from the balls, and I'd not suspect it at all if it weren't for the other cone.  The other is spalled to one degree or another all around, however.

And, oddly, the two cones are not identical.  The "good" one has the plastic seal washers, while the "bad" one has no groove for seal washers.  Clearly, one or the other (probably the "bad" one) has been replaced in one of the two bike shop overhalls.

So the question is, why was the old cone replaced?  Presumably it was spalled as well, so what could be causing one cone to spall?

I haven't removed the dust caps, so I can't get a REAL good look at the cups, but will have a shot at it again, using a flashlight.  But on my several inspections so far the cups look smooth and shiny.  And I'm certain the balls were replaced the last time around.  (Unfortunately, inspecting 18 tiny ball bearings is just about impossible.)

Here are pictures:

Unfortunately, my camera only does a middling job with macro photography.  In the first shot the bad cone is on the left and the good (stock Shimano) one is on the right.  The second shot is the bad cone removed from the axle.  The line you can see, up close, looks kind of like a bead of weld, with "puddling" -- little dents kind of pushed up against each other.

When I went to remove the cone I discovered that it was very difficult to remove.  Something had snarled the threads on the axle, at about the junction point between the cone and the lock nut.  It was impossible to say with any certainty, but it looked like the axle was very slightly bent at that point.  It may be that a bent axle was the cause of the failure (though I don't know how it would have gotten bent, or how a bend at that point could cause a bearing failure).

Anyway, swapped in the axle from a new hub (also replaced the balls and repacked it) and the noise seems to be gone (though hard to tell for sure, as it was so windy for my test ride).

Grrr!!!

The noise is back, with the new axle, cones, and balls.  Have not taken it apart yet, but I'm guessing one of the cones will be pitted when I do.

And looking for a new wheel, I can't find anything on the internet.  It's a Shimano HB-A410 hub, Mavic 622x18 rims, 36 hole.  So far I've not found any 36-hole front wheels, and most of the 622 road wheels I find are "aero" -- not exactly the style for my touring bike.  I'll check the local shops to see what they can get -- failing that I suppose I'll have to build my own.

"Final answer": Pretty much convinced that the hub was bent and came that way from the factory.  This is consistent with the repeated spalling and the damage to the axle that I found.  Replaced with a nearly identical wheel from Peter White and things seem fine.


texts: What kind of road tyres should I go for winter commuting?

texts: I currently have kevlar vittorio rubbino tyres on my road bike, but they don't have enough grip for the oncoming uk winter conditions. What level of tyre tread do I need for road commuting on uk winter roads and any recommendations welcome. I would still like to maintain a low weight and good rolling resistance.


texts: Compatibility of Tiagra 4700 shifter with MTB front derailleur

texts:
I am aware that with the introduction of the Tiagra 4700 groupset Shimano now uses the 11-speed road cable pull ratio also for their 10-speed road systems. Therefore a  Tiagra 4700 right shifter is only compatible with Tiagra 4700 rear derailleurs and 11-speed road rear derailleurs.

Because I would like to run smaller chainrings in the front for my 2x10 setup I need to use a MTB front derailleur. Is this possible with a Tiagra 4700 left shifter or did the cable pull ratio change there as well? If not: Can I use a Sora ST-R3000 left shifter from their 9-speed road groupset instead? What are my options? Which MTB front derailleur would I have to use with which road STI shifter?


texts: Are there any 8-speed brifters with internal cabling?

texts:
I have a situation where the bike has (OEM) 8-speed Shimano Claris shifters with the cables coming out the side which interferes with the handlebar bag.
(Photo below). SRAM doesn't list any 8-speed brifters at all, and Campy 8speed ergos are only available (second hand? genuine?) from Ebay.
I'm looking specifically for brifters with internal cable routing - bar-end shifters are a fallback option.


texts: Can you help me identify my bike please?

texts:
Bought this bike off a friend, but it has been repainted and I am just curious as to what kind of bike it is.

Seat, and both tires are not stock. I have replaced all of those since I bought it.

Any ideas would be appreciated. I have been researching the serial number hoping that I may find something. But haven’t. In case that makes any difference the SN is rcy10010578


texts: Replacing disk brake pads with multi-tool only

texts:
During my cycling week I only had my multi-tool with me. Back home and intending to replace the brake pads, I realized that I have to use pliers if I want to unbend the end of the cotter pin without scratching the brake saddle and/or my fingers.
Is it feasible to replace the cotter pin with a "multi-tool-friendly" or even a tool-free retaining pin? E.g. one with a pin clip.


texts: How much of lower bike pain over longer rides due to bike fit or body positioning versus core strength?  I have spent many years "fixing" my fit but have never had a professional fitting.  I have also ebbed and flowed on my core strength over years and can't pin down it's role in "saving" my lower back pain over time.


texts:
I have a Motobecane Super Mirage that I bought in 1977. I have another bike for regular use, and I've decided to completely rebuild the older one. I determined today that the freewheel teeth are worn down, so I need to replace that. I am just learning about freehubs. Can I replace the freewheel with a freehub setup? What factors do I need to keep in mind if doing so?

Thanks


texts:
My bicycle's crank is sorta wobbly - it tilts left or right, according to pressure applied to pedals.

How do I fix it? What tools do I need?

Video showing the wobble.


texts: The outside diameter of the brake rotor rubs against the caliper

texts:
I have upgraded my bike with a new front suspension fork. Bought and fitted an adaptor from Shimano as the fork is laid out for 160mm (Postmount 6) and my disc front wheel brake rotor is 180mm. However, when I fitted the wheel I noticed that the outside diameter of the rotor catches against the caliper.
The problem disappears if I fit a spacer between the fork and the adaptor but that is not a solution that I am keen on. The wheel can rotate but the problem is clearly noticeable.
The fork and the caliper are both post mount and I have double checked that the adaptor is fitted the right way up.
What am I missing?


texts: How much does nipple choice affect wheel weight/stiffness?

texts: Would I be a fool to replace the nipples on a Dura Ace 7900 C24 wheelset with a set of DT Swiss anodised alloy nipples, in the interest of aesthetics? I want the bike to look nice, but don't want to compromise on performance!


texts: Drum brake that fits on a Brompton fork?

texts:
I'd like to install a drum brake on a Brompton.

The internal distance between the drop-outs is 74mm.

I don't know how wide the Shimano Nexus Roller Brake are, but Sturmey-Archer's X-FD looks interesting.

However, I'm confused about its dimensions: The page says it's 70mm while the PDF says its OLD is 100mm.

Can someone confirm 70mm is actually the width of the drum brake vertically, and 100mm the distance between the two flanges, ie. it won't fit on a Brompton?

Thank you.


texts: Can I put a Tortec Epic rear rack on a 27" frame?

texts:
I'm reviewing racks for my newly re-built vintage tour bike. I have 126mm drops.   I'm guessing I can just use spacers/washers to get the width lined up,  but the it's listed as 26", so if there isn't clearance for the tire,  is there some simple way to raise the mount,  like some steel thingy with two holes in it and a little gap?  I don't have a lot of tools or shop space, so I need something ready made.  *I am in Hiroshima and there are not a lot of rack options I've been able to find locally.

I want this rack as it is well priced,  people seem to have good luck with them, it's steel and has a nice payload capacity.  I haven't seen anything that hits all of these points so I will make it work if I can.

Thanks!


texts: Is changing wheel necessary to use a freewheel with different number of gears?

texts:
Approx. 3 weeks ago I found an abandoned frame (including handlebars, fork, brakes, pedals and shifting gears attached to it). I decided to use it to build a new bicycle since only recently I've decided to learn more about these things (even though I have been riding a bicycle since the age of 3 :D). A friend of mine gave me an old MTB 2 months ago for spare parts if I need any. I decided to use the wheels (including the freewheel hub on the rear wheel) since they seem to be in order especially after cleaning and oiling the bearings and axle, and diameter-wise they are a perfect fit - 26 inch (actually my initial intent on mounting the wheels on the frame was to see what wheels would fit on it).

The problem I'm facing is that according to a friend of mine the shifting mechanism is meant for at least 8-speed rear freewheel hub while the freewheel hub the wheel from the old MTB has only 6 cogs.

My first question is what the model of the shifting gears is? The only thing that I have found are the labels on the various components that are part of the whole gear thing and they seem to be all part of a Shimano Deore XT set. Sadly when I looked online I found out that there are like 10 or so versions of this set throughout the years since the initial release. The parts look relatively new so I would exclude all models that are older than let's say 2005-2006 (correct me if I'm wrong). Is it really meant for 8/9-speed?

My second question is if it's possible to change the freewheel hub with a 8/9-speed without a need for replacing the whole wheel itself? The question of course applies only if the answer to the first one is "Yes, this is not a 6- but a 8/9-speed freewheel hub". This is probably a dumb question but since I've just started learning I don't want to screw things up. IMHO it shouldn't be a problem for close values (like 6 vs 7 speed if such a thing exists) since (to my understanding) rear cogsets with lower number of cogs have a greater distance between adjacent cogs while cogsets with a higher number of cogs have a smaller distance between adjacent cogs which makes me believe that in terms of width cogsets are in general similar enough and I shouldn't be bothered when switching on freewheel hub with another. I have another freewheel hub with 7 cogs from my previous bicycle and based on the measurements I've made the width compared to a 6-speed cogset is very small.

Below are some photos of the gears I have. Cleaning is currently undergoing so don't mind the rust and dirt. :D

If you need more information/photos I can provide these.

UPDATE: After doing some testing and also after looking closely at the rear derailleur I found that it's a Shimano Deore XT RD-M760 which - according to multiple sites - supports 7,8 and up to 9 speeds. I actually have a 7-speed freewheel hub from my previous bicycle however I am considering buying a 8-speed one. The chain I bought is a KMC Z8S which has 116 links in total (I have cut it to fit my wrong 6-speed configuration but I have a spare master link plus the rest of the chain so I should be able to recover from this mess :D). The labelling on the casing says that it's meant for 18, 21 and 24 speed systems hence with the 3 speeds on the front I can use this chain with a 6, 7 and 8 speeds on the rear. However due to my gear I have to stick to either 7 (that is 3x7=21) or 8 (that is 3x8=24) speed freewheel hubs. Given that I have an indexed shifter (as pointed in the comments) and some research I did I should go for an 8-speed freewheel hub, right?


texts:
I recently go my hands on a nice clean Titanium triathon frame. Together with my mechanic of trust I built up a sleek and fast city bike, using 650c wheels.

Since I ride throughout the year, I want to fit some mud guards to it. I've looked a lot of places, whether in bike shops around town or online (i.e. SKS). So far I haven't found anything for 650c wheels...
Another tricky issue is the lack of threads for fixing the bars. So ideally the guard should be fixable like this Crud Roadracer Guard Set. And of corse, the frame being built for triathlons, the geometry is rather tight so there isn't a load of space between frame and wheels...

I know it's a tricky question but I'm curious about any suggestions or tipps regarding a pair of mudguards.


texts: What kind of tire will fit a Columbia touring 26 inch bicycle

texts: I have a girls 26 inch Columbia touring bicycle, its old. It needs new tires, on the tires is the size of 26 x 1 3/8 inch. Yet, all tires at Walmart are too small to fit the rim. I even went to a 27 inch and it was way too big. My question is (and I have searched extensively and found no answers) Will a Schwinn tire fit this bike? Or, will those 700mm fit.  Thanks


texts: What is causing the chain skip after chain replacement?

texts:
I have a road bike that was converted to single speed with a single sprocket on the read wheel and a single chainring.

I had a 3/32 chain which worked perfectly fine. However after many kms and apparent chains stretch I decided to replace the chain.

I replaced the chain with a single speed 1/8 chain which I assumed would work perfectly, given that there's a single sprocket and chain pitch is standard.

  All modern bicycle chains are made to the “one-half inch pitch” standard, meaning from rivet to rivet is nominally 0.5 inches. The sprocket teeth are cut for this same one-half inch standard to accept bicycle chains. However, this does not mean all makes and models of chains are interchangeable. source

Since I replaced the chain, the chain skips on the rear sprocket due to what appear to be misalignment which compounds after a couple of revolutions and then skips.

I tried adjusting the chain tension but that doesn't seem to help.

Hypothesis to explain the problem:

The stretched chain had deviated from standard pitch and caused the sprocket (which is relatively old) to match it through constant wear.

How reasonable is that? Should I just replace the sprocket? Could the problem be elsewhere?


texts: MTB Hardtail preventing flipping backwards on steep gradients

texts:
When climbing longer 40-50% gradient sections my front wheel starts lifting even at cadences around 70. Leaning forward doesn't help much, I am already balancing myself on the rear wheel. Today the bike suddenly got out of control, I flipped and fell on my bum.

Longer stem? Saddle forward? Can you shorten the front suspension? What can I do to shift weight forward?


texts: What is the difference in procedures for bleeding different disc brakes?

texts:
I want to learn to bleed my new disc brakes. While there is a wealth of knowledge on the topic, it is difficult to tell the difference between pedantic explanations and sloppy work.

In the official Avid bleeding instruction video a meticulous procedure is explained, of course using their proprietary kit.

Shimano disc brake bleeding seems much simplified, and the kit is different (simpler).

Questions:

The avid kit looks really cool, with the clips on the hoses. And is not very expensive, at $60. Can it be used to bleed any kind of brake? With an adapter?
The avid instruction stresses removing any air from the liquid prior to the bleed (they clamp the hose of the syringe and pull on the piston). Why is this not done in the Shimano video? I went to a (good) mechanic with my Shimano BR-M395 and he didn't do such a thing. He didn't even unscrew the caliper fluid bolt - only operated on the lever.
Is Magura Mineral oil fully compatible with Shimano mineral oil brakes? Can the two kinds of oil be mixed?
At the LBS they told me that the procedure is complicated with Avids, because their caliper design is awkward, easily trapping air. On the other hand, Shimano brakes are expected to fill up properly and without air by just tapping the hose while filling. Is this true?
Any other differences between the procedures for Avid, Shimano, Magura, Tekrto, Clark's?
Is it true that the oil is very dangerous for the skin and the eyes, and gloves must be worn?


texts: What's the cheapest way to get into training with power?

texts:
I used to train with a  stopwatch, and later on, heart-rate. Both required relatively inexpensive tools.

Now I'm interested in training with power (measuring the watts produced) and I'm finding that the tools are at least an order-of-magnitude more expensive.

I was hoping the ANT+ standard would drive down prices a bit.


texts: Is there a way to check for non-visible damage on a carbon frame?

texts: I had an accident on my carbon road bike. As I look at it, I do not see visible damage to the frame or forks. Is there a way that the frame can be tested for damage and if so, how do I get this testing done?


texts: Minor but persistent saddle sore - Safe to continue riding?

texts:
A few months ago I switched from a heavily padded saddle to a Velominati-approved one: http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#61

It was very uncomfortable at first (even with padded shorts), but I quickly grew accustomed to it.

My shorts are of the cheaper type, and most of my weight is concentrated on a very specific spot on each of my sit bones. A little more padding would be better, but it's tolerable the way it is.

Three weeks ago I did a particularly long ride (7 hours), and it left a small saddle sore on each of my sit bones.

Since then I haven't done any long rides. Just my usual 20 minute commute to work (which I do in normal pants, no padding).

The sores haven't gone away. But even on my commute, without padded shorts, there's only a very mild (often unnoticeable) discomfort, and I'd rather sit and spin than ride standing.

By continuing to do what I'm doing, am I preventing the sores from healing? Am I risking an infection?


texts: How do the pros recover so quickly after a crash? And what can we learn from them?

texts:
I assume when pros crash, they do the same damage to themselves that the rest of us do.  Although they're lighter, they tend to be going faster. But not only do they often finish that day's racing, but they're racing again the next day.  How do they do it I'm thinking mainly about joints.

Why I'm thinking about it/an example:

A couple of weeks ago I had a bit of a crash.  Nothing serious and I finished the ride (another 180 km) but the knee I landed on must have got a bit twisted, which seems to be a habit when I go down.  We were doing about 45 km/h just before four of us went down in a race-style crash, but I certainly managed to hit the brakes.  I was still clipped in with my hands on tha bars when I hit the ground, and I'm only a few years older than typical TdF riders.

After 10 days of taking it easy (ibuprofen, bandage, elevation, some ice but probably not enough, and not complete rest) I was ready to try it out on a club run, and yesterday (2 weeks after) did another long ride in which it really stiffened up at lunch.  There's no way I could have been competitive (yes, there were some PRs towards the end, but not on roads I've ridden recently).

But the pros can race again the next day.  Are they just stoked up on painkillers/anti-inflammatories? Is it a lot of ice and compression after they get off (which is much sooner even if the distance is the same)? Do they manage to avoid injury in the first place despite crashing with a lot of energy?


texts: What special measures do I have to take to commute in frigid temperatures?

texts:
Until now, I have been an infrequent recreational (summer) cyclist, but this winter I plan to begin commuting to work via bicycle.  It is a relatively short distance, (approx. ten minute ride), but the temperature in winter can get as low as -40°C (-40°F), although more-typical lows are between -25 to -30°C (-13 to -22°F), with the ever-present wind making it feel even colder.

It generally stays below freezing most of the winter, so I'm not particularly concerned about wetness or slushy/icy streets; my primary concern is temperature.

My bicycle is a mid-range mountain bike -- not super fancy, but not the uber-cheap Walmart variety, either.  (I realize it's not the ideal commuting bike, but it's what I have.) It has rim brakes and trigger shifters for the derailleurs.

At home, my bike will typically be stored in an unheated shed.  At work, there is a heated indoor location to store it.

Snow is generally cleared from the streets reasonably quickly, and I have a dedicated bike lane most of the way to work, so I'm not too worried about navigating the streets in the winter.

This is not a duplicate of What are the minimum requirements to commute comfortably through the winter?, since it deals with moderate New York winters, and I'm asking specifically about much colder temperatures.

I want to know:

Is there any special equipment/care/maintenance I need for my bicycle for it to be able to function appropriately in these temperatures (e.g. special lubricant for the chain, special tires that won't crack in the cold, etc.)?  I have little experience with this, so I don't know whether my bicycle will be sufficient as-is or will need special treatment.
I plan to dress warmly, cover my face, etc., but I'm wondering if there is any special clothing/equipment I need for myself, aside from regular warm winter clothing.
Is there anything else I need to be aware of when commuting in very cold weather?


texts: Fox F120 RL fork mystery fluid - with pics

texts:
The fork of the bike I bought used - a Fox F120RL (installed on a 2011 Trek Fuel 8 EX) has started leaking a weird see-through fluid from the side where you adjust compression and rebound. Does anyone know what happened or what is leaking?  Is it worthwhile fixing? Have I been scammed? What even is that fluid? (Pics in the end of the post)

The full story:
Recently I bought an amazing-feeling 2011 Trek Fuel 8 EX (second hand, of course). After a couple days I significantly lowered the pressure on the fork and rear shock and achieved that perfect feel (15-25% sag). The bike could clear a small speed bump without feeling anything - true magic.

But after I made my first ride on a rocky trail with the new sag and air pressure settings, I noticed black oil on the front of the fork. Being naive, I thought this is just a bad seal and temporarily made the decision to turn the compression up to the maximum. After that, I took my bike home and stopped using it until I can take it to get the fork rebuilt.

Today I woke up to a weird smell and a pool of clear fluid on the floor. It is on the the right side, opposite to where the hydraulic disc brake is mounted. I have never seen any fork leak this badly before. If I turn the compression it makes bump noises and it maybe losing air pressure...

side view of the leaking fork. the "dirt" on it, is oil from a previous ride. notice the fluid leaking down the leg:


texts: Inline Barrel Adjusters with Shimano 105 R7020?

texts:
I'm upgrading my Shimano 105 5800 shifters to newer 7020 shifters in order to equip my bike with hydraulic brakes. I'm not changing any other components as part of this upgrade. The kit shipped with the necessary cables but without inline barrel adjusters. I did some reading and the 7000 front derailleur has "integrated cable tension adjustment" so it appears that it doesn't need barrel adjusters. I am not sure if the derailleur manages this on its own, or is a combination of shifter + derailleur, etc.

Considering I will continue using my existing derailleur, I want to confirm that I should cut the new cable housings and add my old barrel adjusters to this setup.


texts:
I have a bike on which I’m looking for information. Serial number is T80409c3 I believe.  Has been stored in a garage and has all original parts minus the kickstand that was aftermarket. I believe it to be a prototype.

It’s a Chromoly frame.


texts: FEM: How to Design weight-distribution in bike prototypes?

texts:
Inferio! No-one can understand this bloated question here, now more focussed.

Suppose you are doing a new bike. How can you be certain that some critical point won't get too much force and the right parts gets the force that is then again supported by the ground? Of course, everyone here has played the wonderful bridge construction -game and knows that weight-distribution requires proper analytical reasoning. I think there are some multi-variance-something-methods to investigate it. Anyway, just skim-read a book and they give many different formulae (apparently numerical approximations) for different kinds of attachments (or welding points or anything you call it). So I don't try to underestimate the hardness to design proper weight distribution. Any design hints welcome.


texts:
I am thinking about buying a CO2 tyre inflater. I have never used one before and have 3 questions:

Do they have enough pressure to get a road tyre up to full pressure (~100psi)
When you use a cartridge, do you have to use the entire cartridge at once?
Are there any common cartridge standards? i.e. am a better off going with a particular brand because it is compatible with more brands of cartridges.. or are they all happy to mix and match?


texts: Child seat: how to keep the child's head from falling forward?

texts:
When my child falls asleep in the child seat, his head falls forward.
How can I keep his head back?

The child seat is a modern type with a back that can be tilted back to prevent that. It works, but only as long as the bike isn't moving. But at speed, the seat's movements from an uneven road surface and from simply pedalling will slowly but surely make his head fall forward. Short of replacing the child seat with one whose back can be angled even further back, what options do I have?

I thought of the whiplash protectors used in Formula 1 cars: somehow strap the child's helmet to the seat back. But that would be neither safe nor effective, as such a strap would only tug at the helmet (not the head) with the risk of slow suffocation or at least a helmet that slides into the neck and would no longer protect the head in case of an accident.

Let me add a fun photo: here, a cloth bag is hung from the helmet in an attempt to keep the child's head from falling forward. We did NOT actually do that, but it shows the idea.


texts: Are there any sub $100 gps devices that can export a gpx file

texts: I am looking to ride with strava, however as a teenager I receive very little to no money regularly and I do not have a smart phone. I would like a device that tracks my ride via gps and exports a gpx file so I may upload it to strava. It must cost less than $100 AUD.


texts: How do I remove a pedal from a crank with a crossed thread?

texts:
I've part stripped, and ultimately crossed the thread on my crank and can't remove my pedal now.  This was done whilst riding and then trying to remove the pedal from the damaged crank.  I figure the crank is toast but I want to remove the pedal without damaging it.  Does anyone have any simple way to do that?  My best theory at the moment is to use a hack saw to cut through and then either use a chisel to widen the gap or to then make another cut to free the pedal completely.

The main reason I haven't just done that is that I'm worried about damaging the pedals threads.  I want to continue using this set of pedals.

Here is a picture of the pedal, it wobbles about in the crank but I haven't managed to pull it out.  I tried pulling the pedal while someone undid the pedal but the thread appears to be too screwed up.


texts: When the the caliper brakes are applied, the pads barely move at all

texts:
I've done some light maintenance on cheap side caliper systems and I've run into this problem on a few older bikes.

When the the brakes are applied, the pads barely move at all. I've adjusted the brakes so the pads are closer, but they still don't come far enough. They are also rather difficult to push. This only seems to occur on the rear brakes, presumably because they're used the most (at least by these bikers).

Do I need to just get new (better) brake systems or is there some way to fix this?


texts:
I have recently made the decision to commute to work via bike. It’s about 14 miles each way (so just under 30 miles return). I initially started on my old bike but it clearly wasn’t really appropriate for what I consider a fairly long commute, so I purchased an Ebike (a Cube Acid). I love the bike; it’s really opened the possibility of commuting 5 days a week whilst still giving me a decent work out with reasonable heart rate pushes.

I’m now 1 month in, have cycled every day (rain or shine) & am generally really enjoying it.

However, after nearly 500 miles saddle time I’m experiencing quite uncomfortable saddle pains & really sore / numb thighs / legs. I also feel quite tired at points during the day & in the evening.

A lot of the above seems obvious, I am after all putting in nearly 150 miles a week. I also like to push myself some days using Strava to set new Personal Bests (PBs) etc.

My questions are:

Is it normal to feel such pain on the saddle, and is this possibly the cause of numbness in my legs?
Is it possible a bad saddle position is causing a pinched nerve like effect down my legs?

I do wear padded cycling bottoms (although they are cheap Decathlon ones).

Another thing, due to the nature of an Ebike you tend to sit and ride the whole journey, no standing up to push up hills, etc. Is this bad?

I know a lot of people will mock the Ebike, and I know this makes life easier, but although it is making life easier I’m still pushing hard and averaging fairly high heart rates over a 50 min commute each way (better than driving a car, right).

Hopefully a few experienced rider / regular commuter might be able to offer some words of wisdom here.


texts: Would a recumbent bike be allowed at an ultra endurance event? & Why is no one using one?

texts:
When I look at ultra-endurance races, for example, https://www.transcontinental.cc/ I always think two things:

Wow! I want to do this
This is ideal for a recumbent bike!

So, I wonder: Would this be allowed? I kind of assume there is no rule forbidding it so: Why is not everyone doing this? Recumbents are a lot more comfortable for long distance and at least in the flat they are a lot faster, two.

Rules for the transcontinental:

Ride from start to finish via controls listed here
No third party support, resupply or lodgings
No drafting (other than with pairs partner)
All forward travel must be self powered
Travel by ferries only by approved routes
All riders must maintain evidence of their ride
Inactive for 2+ days without contact = scratch
No insurance, no helmet, no lights = scratch
Riders must know and obey local traffic laws
Ride in the spirit of self reliance & equal opportunity


texts: Using 9 speed bar end shifters in friction mode with 10 speed derailleurs and cassette

texts:
I am going to build a new bike, and I'd like to reuse my old bar end shifters if possible.

I prefer using them in friction mode.

Is it possible to use 9-speed Shimano bar end shifter on friction with:

Shimano 10 speed derailleurs/cassette?
Shimano 11 speed derailleurs/cassette?
Campagnolo 10 speed derailleurs/cassette?

Any problems to expect/consider?


texts: Can I replace the eccentric bottom bracket in my Salsa El Mariachi with standard BB?

texts:
I have an older Salsa El Mariachi with a Bushnell eccentric bottom bracket with 54mm O.D.

Do I have any options to replace the EBB with a non-eccentric bottom bracket?

The current bottom bracket has threaded openings to accept a standard 68mm English thread BB, currently running a standard GXP bottom bracket and crankset in the Bushnell EBB.


texts:
My road bike with square taper Chorus crankset has developed a click when pedaling. The click happens always in the same pedal position, right crank forward, on both chainrings. Since the noise started, I have reinstalled the cranks, tightened chainring bolts, and replaced the seatpost, pedals and wheels.

The bottom bracket rotates smoothly when cranks are not installed or without chain. The click only occurs when pedaling with force, and happens when standing up so it very probably is not the saddle or seat post.

The most mysterious part is that the click goes away in rain or even humid weather. Any ideas?

EDIT: Since this got a "popular question" badge and duplicate, situation update: Since I posted the question, I have switched pedals a couple of times and replaced the chainrings. The click remains the same.


texts: Recommended brands for full-day rides and short multi-day tours

texts:
I’m going to be investing in a new touring bike soon for weekly centuries and the occasional few-day tour. I’m looking at the $2K or possibly $3K level.

I currently ride a Lemond Croix de Fer, and I like the comments I get from others who notice I’m riding a LeMond. So I find myself wanting to look beyond the common brands like Specialized and Trek. My question: is it reasonable to look beyond the common brands for a bike that is more "specialized" than Specialized?


texts: What causes a wheel to suddenly go out of true?

texts:
This morning I noticed that my wheel was suddenly out of true and rubbing against the brake pad at one point. My first guess was that I had broken a spoke, but all of them seem to be intact. A few spokes seem less taut than the others, but none of them are loose.

I don't recall hitting any major potholes. Is it possible for an obstacle to bend the rim without being a big enough obstacle for me to notice? Should I just true the wheel and move on with my life, or is there anything else I should be careful about? Other than a broken spoke, what would cause a wheel to suddenly go out of true?


texts:
I'm in the process of replacing crankset and bottom bracket on my road bike - square taper type spindle. Bike is only four years old and bought from new, so all original parts with threads in good condition etc.
Trying to thread crank puller tool into cranks but can't seem to get it to screw in - obviously don't want to force it as it seems like hand tightening should be sufficient. Looks to be the correct size and cleaned & greased the threads of both the tool and the cranks.
Is there a particular technique to doing this or is it really just a case of turning clockwise and it starts to engage with the crank thread?
May be an age old question, but never done this before and don't want to risk damaging tools and/or components. Any suggestions appreciated.


texts: What is a good bike-to-lock ratio in price?

texts: What is a good ratio, in prices, between your bike and your lock so that it would be reasonable. Say if your bike is 200 GBP, a lock of 20 GBP might be too cheap (or just right!). So where do people draw the line?


texts: Changing wheels on Scott 960 - will 29" 12 x 142 fit

texts:
I've recently bought a set of wheels I'm hoping to change over to for a Scott 960 (2014).

The specs of the bike are here https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Scott/Scale-960,13562

I wasn't sure from these specs how to find what the correct hub size should be for the wheels.

I've bought the following wheel set:

Shimano SLX MT66 Wheelset Black 29" 12 x 142 Shimano

A friend of mine thought the original wheels may be 29" 10 x 135 rather than 12 x 142. How from those specs would I determine this and does this mean I need to return the wheels?


texts:
I recently got a ton of bmx parts and 2 frames for free from someone on nextdoor. He left the parts at the end of driveway, so I couldn't ask any questions. I'm curious about this race frame he gave me. I put this mostly together from parts in the box. The decals have been removed, and there was only an Answer sticker on the bottom of the frame. I'm hoping the gusset on the headtube may help someone identify it for me

![enter image description here]
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Dvfq.jpg)


texts: Due to a house move I am soon to become a road bike commuter with approx. 18 miles to cover. I could do with loosing a few kgs but am worried about developing the emaciated physique so apparent in many of the road bikers I see. How can one avoid this? Is it simply a product of the high endurance aspects of road cycling over longer distances, or a combination of that and excessive dieting? I have been a mountain biker for over 10 years and have found that it helps one build muscle mass in the upper thigh and arms and shoulders. Any advice on how to avoid the skinny road biker look would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I am having some trouble with my Boardman Mht 8.8.

Whenever I press my brakes while stationary, and move the bike with them engaged, a creak and clunk sounding noise appears, every time. This actually moves the wheel slightly, which is slightly worrying.

I am puzzled, my 2 local bike shops say it's normal with hydraulic disc brakes, they say its the brake pads moving around, but I beg to differ, it just doesn't seem right. And help/feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks : )


texts:
After I changed tires to conti 4 seasons in my road bike, the front wheel has been leaking air very slowly. I've changed tubes some 3 times already, and it keeps happening (after a couple of weeks). The tube will keep some pressure for about 3 to 4 hours before it's noticeable. Submerging the tubes in water doesn't help to find leaks, and the back tire is fine. I checked several times and found no sharp objects inside the tire.

The only thing I did find a bit weird was that the rim tape was not exactly on the center on one point, and would not stay in the center easily (it kept climbing the inner wheel).


texts: What speed is my Shimano Nexus 8 Hub in?

texts:
I made a mistake when changing a flat. I didn't have it in 4th speed. When I was changing the flat I shifted it for more give on the shifter cable >_< . Now my shifter says 4 and I don't known what the gear is actually in.

I've been field testing it to get the 4 on the shifter to put the hub in 4th speed. I'll commute to work, experience slippage, adjust it so the yellow lines match, and continue experiencing slippage.

I'll unhook the shifter cable. Shift down so 4 is now 3. Field test again.

How do I know what speed my hub is in when the shifter doesn't match?


texts: How wide of tires can I run on a Victory Vision road bicycle?

texts:
I'm new to road bicycles, sorry if this question is beat to death. What I'm wondering is what to measure as far as frame clearance, rim width, etc. to put the 'widest tires that will fit' on my road bike for durability purposes?

The bike is more or less a glorified BSO, and because of this I can't find any real specifications other than the amazon.com page: http://www.amazon.com/Victory-Vision-Mens-Road-Bike/dp/B002D126EW

The ones that came on it are unmarked, but appear to be 27mm or 28mm, the rim width is 25mm. How do I know whether 32mm or larger will fit before buying them, without rubbing and such?


texts:
Has anyone rode the trails at Cuyuna Lakes in Ironton, Minnesota?

Wondering if there is tent camping at the base of any of the trail systems that a guy can literally ride into camp at the bottom ?

If so, can you give me some advice? Where to go...best place to grab...heads up about anything... etc.

Thanks stackers!


texts: New Schwinn 700c (bike in a box) assembly

texts:
I just got my bike delivered and having more difficulty than I thought putting it together.

After buying proper tools it should be okay. Aside from set up tips, does the suggestion about like lubrication for set up a must?

I cannot find any.


texts: I was wondering how to tell when your disk brake pads need replacing.  My front seems to be not stopping as quickly as it used to, or as I would like. I know this could be road grime build up, but I am not sure the indicators for replacement time for the pads.


texts: What happens to the dynamics of a bike as a trailer load approaches a significant percentage of the weight of the bike and rider?

texts:
An average bike trailer might add 5-10 kilos to the weight of a bike, while not zero its also a small amount of the overall system mass.

How do the dynamics of the combination change, as the weight of the trailer + load approaches the weight of the rider + bike ?

Imagine loaded trailer is half the weight of the rider and bike, and equal mass, and double the mass.

This comes from a comment on Designing Bike Trailers – Especially the hitch and load  and aims for a more generic answer.


texts: Can Di2 only be tested as a complete setup?

texts:
I'm having problem testing my Di2 setup. Long story short, I got a pair of used but in very good condition Dura Ace Di2 9070 brifters for a cheap price. I then bought a new Di2 cable set with external battery mount, external junction SM-JC40 and the SM-EW90 junction A. For the RD I bought an Ultegra R8050 RD, also in a very good condition since the shop said they just took it off a new bike. The batteries are the SM-BTR1 with around 50% charge, as indicated on the junction box when I plugged the cable into it. Currently I'm missing an FD.
Now the problem is I want to test whether the setup works out of the box without firmware update so I plugged everything in, checked the connection etc, but the shifter isn't doing anything and the RD doesn't move. Holding the shifter button also doesn't show the battery level. So my question is: Is it normal for Di2 to not work without the left shifter and FD connected? Or is it really a firmware problem?
Thanks in advance.


texts: Is a self cleaning lube enough for chain maintenance?

texts:
I've been trying to figure out what I should use when cleaning my bicycle chain.  When I first purchased my bike, I knew I needed to lube my chain when i did regular maintenance.  I purchased some White Lightning Self Cleaning Bicycle lube, which suggested to me that I only needed to put that lube on the chain and everything would be fine.

I recently purchased another brand of lube, and it didn't say anything about self cleaning.  I've read in several places that a degreaser is needed and a cloth and some soap to clean a chain properly, and then lubing takes place afterwards.

If I buy White Lighting self cleaning lube (or another Wax based lubricant), do I need to go through the regular chain cleaning steps(of de-greasing, soaping, greasing/lubing again)?  or can i just lube my chain and go?


texts:
I have a bike with the so-called back-pedal brake, but since it's for someone who's learning I think that it's more an obstacle than an advantage.

Since the bike also has hand-actioned brakes, can I remove the back-pedal braking effect without replacing the wheel?


texts: How do I change a road bike into a commuter bike?

texts:
I have a road bike that I commute to work on, just a 9km trip each way.  I also have some tightness in my lower back, especially since I usually sit in front of a computer screen.  My wife wants me to change my road bike set up so that I am no longer bent over when riding, but have a more upright posture.  Can I change the stem and handle bars easily (and cheaply) for a flat bar configuration so as to turn my road bike into a commuter bike?

P.S. I am also planning on getting some panniers fitted, so as to take the weight of a backpack off me, but that will probably be another question.


texts: How do I know if I can replace the 27 inch wheels with 700c wheels on my MIELE bike?

texts: I need a help with choosing a wheelset for my Miele bike.I can't fully understand if it is possible to replace my old rigida 27 inch wheels for 700c coz i have too little free place.I visited a site where there is a size table of wheels and saw that it is possible(judging by numbers).There are no 27 inch wheels in my country at all,so im made to think of whether to  put 26" or if possible 700c.


texts: I've seen several manufacturers, like challenge, offering what they call an 'Open Tubular' tire. How is this different from a standard clincher tire?


texts: In need of guides to maintain the bike that I'm about to get

texts:
I'm about to get myself a cheap hybrid (costing ~200 USD) and I'd like to be able to learn how to maintain it on my own without having to go to a bike shop every now and then (and also because I'm a student who can't really afford to do that). If there are any books that could be suggested, that'd be really helpful!
It'd have alloy (6061) frame and rims (double walled). Shimano tourney groupset (3×7), adjustable handlebar stem, quick release seat post as well as both wheels.


texts:
I've recently noticed that my front hub is bent, or at least the parts that connect to the fork (any name for this?). It's not a huge bent, but it's clearly visible with your eyes.

It fits the fork without any problem, but I'm wondering if I should keep these, or if that may damage my fork somehow (as a fork is probably more expensive than hubs...)

See the highlighted part in the picture? That's the bent part. It seems to be bent through the whole length of the hub, not only the external part. Actually, when I rotate the wheel, I can see this part moving from side to side.


texts: Shifting from a Tiagra BB to an Ultegra or Dura Ace BB?

texts:
So after about 10,000 miles with my bike I bought in 2015 the bottom brackets have had enough. I need to switch them out, and considering they're quite cheap in retail and also does a lot of the heavy lifting I thought I could upgrade to a better series.

And here's where my problem is, I have no idea whether a BB I'm considering will fit the bike or not.

Here's the bike I have

It's a 2015 Nishiki Hyper Pro

The original Bottom Brackets are Shimano SM-BB4600, which seem to be the Tiagra series. (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/shimano-tiagra-4600-bottom-bracket/rp-prod67221)

The Bottom Bracket I hope to upgrade to would either be

Shimano Dura Ace BB-R9100 (https://www.wiggle.se/shimano-dura-ace-bb-r9100-vevlager/)

Or the
Shimano BB-R60 Bottom Bracket (Ultegra, 6800/105 5800, Hollowtech II) (https://www.wiggle.se/shimano-bb-r60-vevlager-ultegra-6800105-5800-hollowtech-ii/)

Would you say these bottom brackets are interchangeable? And if so, for me who mainly use the bike for a high pace 12 mile commute (in sun, rain or snow) each day, what BB would you recommend? Never mind the price difference, I only focus on durability and performance.


texts: Life expectancy of a cycle tube and tire?

texts:
Can anyone please let me know the life expectancy (no of km or time period) of a cycle tube and tire?

Let us consider different cycles (MTB Hybrid Roadbike) and different terrain (off-road slightly rugged smooth) respectively.

Though I have a hybrid and have rode around 1500 km on it without a change of the tubes, I would love to know the other cycle's life expectancy and it would be helpful for others too.


texts:
I'm based in Oxford and I have a classic Triumph steel cruising bike. I am a complete amateur when it comes to paintwork and I wanted to ask the community here a few quick questions if possible.

The pictures I have attached are probably the most useful but I will explain what I think is going on with the bike too. There is lots of patchy paint loss dotted all over the bike with exposed steel that I would like to protect and repaint if needed.

My main question is... What are my options to try and prolong the life of this frame? I ideally want to preserve the Triumph logos too.

Many thanks,

James


texts: What books do you know about learning mountain biking.


texts:
Apologies if this is is obvious or has been answered before.

I'm looking at setting up a touring bike, using road STI levers (Shimano or equivalent, looking at Tiagra 3x9 or possibly the Microshift 3x9) with a MTB derailleur (probably just Deore) and 9 speed cassette, in order to get the gearing right for loaded riding.

Will there be any compatibility issues?


texts: Things to consider when choosing a recumbent

texts:
Google's Sergey Brin asked for recommendations on buying a recumbent. What factors should he consider when evaluating alternatives?

  I'm thinking of getting a recumbent road bike even though +Dylan Casey will laugh at me. I would like to get a nice mix of performance, comfort and safety. So, probably 20'ish pounds, not too upright, not too flat, good visibility, maybe an optional fairing, ...


texts: Fitting a saddle with non-round rails to a Stevens Arcalis

texts:
What options are there to change the saddle mount on an aero seatpost of an Stevens Arcalis 2017 to mount a saddle with non-round carbon rails?

Below you can see the saddle mount that is designed to accept round saddle rails only. Usually 6mm x 6mm or 7mm by 7mm.

Are there any options – specific to this bike or general purpose – to allow that?

Update:

Stevens Vertriebs GmbH (info@stevensbikes.de) informed me via email

  ... we are sorry, we don´t have Arcalis saddle clamps for Carbon-Rail
  available

So stevens does not provide any replacement part for my purpose.


texts:
So the first problem is with my front gear, which is stuck on the largest cog, and when i try to lower the front gear, the cable just gets looser and looser and nothing moves anywhere. If i move te deralieur by hand, it moves fine.
The second problem is that my back gears are shifted by a few gears. So when i'm in 1st gear it's on the 4th cog and when i'm in 4th gear it's on the 7th cog.
These two problems limit my gear range from 21 to the hardest 4. My gears switch using levers on the steering handle.


texts: What are the things called that you attach a rack to?

texts: I'm looking to purchase a bike for my commute to work and want a bike I can attach a back rack to. Looking around on-line it is very hard to figure out with which bikes this is possible. What is the term for the points that you connect a rack to? Or more generally, what should I search for that tells me a bike has these points?


texts:
I found this bike push-trailer.

Because the trailer project is open-source I discovered that the used hub motor is MUXUS XF40 (specs here)

In many places on the internet a learned that if such motors doesn't runs at their optimal RPM (usually high) they could get overheated.

Because the trailer could work in 2 modes:

6 km/h engine support in Hand-Car-Mode
25 km/h at 250W in Pedelec-Mode

I wondering how is possible to manage the "hand-car-mode" where the hub-motor runs very low RPM (max. 6km/h) without overheating or other problems. Or the "low rpm overheating" isn't real issue and it is possible easily a safely regulate the BLDC motor to run in any LOW rpm?


texts: Tubeless tire looses air through weld of rim

texts:
I have the DT Swiss X1700 Spline 29″ with the Schwalbe RockRazor 2.35" PaceStar on my pre built Bike which are tubeless. After about 100 km the tire now looses air through the weld very fast.

I illustrated it appropriately:

Can you tell me if this is a factory fault or is it simply not enough sealant in it? Does the sealant work on the rim as well? I don't want to take a look into it since I may lose warranty.


texts: What is the difference between the different oils for a suspension?

texts:
I am trying to rebuild a fork and quite confused on what I need for oil and some of the terms for the types of oil.

I have seen the following:

Suspension oil
Damper oil
Semi-bath oil
Gear oil
Motor oil

The manuals I am looking only say "oil" or "semi-bath oil" (without a particular difference being mentioned) and only specify 5WT.

What are the differences of these?  Should I care and just use the same "suspension oil" for everything?


texts: Front disc brake wobbling / grinding on pads after full braking and minor plunge

texts:
The front disc brake grinds after a light accident with full braking and plunge.

To give an idea of the forces involved:

The bike fell to the left, mostly cushioned by me. The bike had no more linear
momentum. The brake lever and handlebar band has minor scratches. The handlebar
or stem is slightly skewed.

It look like the wheel/rim is not deformed/buckled, it's not visibly
wobbling.
The disc is slightly deformed, wobbling at most a couple of 100µm. The
bending cause by the pads looks more than a millimeter.
The gaps between disc brake pads are not even, one pad is always touching
the disc. The disc seems to be not centered in the brake.
The handlebar is slightly skewed (de-justified stem/steer tube).

The animation shows the brake photographed from the front toggling with brake
released and slightly, but not fully pressed:

From the animation you can see that the brake pads are not evenly spaced. On the
left (inner) side there's a (wide) gap, while on the right (outer) side the pad
is already touching the disc. Also, the disc is being pushed and bent by the
outer pad moving.

(Note that the animation was created from two photos taken with the bike
standing but being unfixated and the levers being operated. This causes some
minor movement of the whole bike. If you think this makes the judgement
impossible, tell me and I'll try to make a better pair of pictures.)

The animation shows the wheel spinning in 90° steps, photographed with sharp
angle to (along) the fork:

The wobbling is quite visible.

There's no more than these scratches caused by the plunge:

Technical data

Gravel bike
Carbon fork
Through-axle
Aluminium drop bar
Shimano 105 BR-R7070 with dual pistons
1200 km driven, 4 months old
Bike: 10 kg
Saddle bag and water bottle: 3 kg
Me including backpack: 65 kg

Course of events

This is after full braking and a - presumably - light plunge from standing. The
front wheel locked, the rear wheel lifted off the ground. The bike was upside
down (angled 45° - 90°) and I had the saddle in my spine before I fell fore- and
sidewards.

So I pushed downwards and sidewards (along the axle, not in driving direction)
into the stem with my body weight and a bit remaining momentum. There probably
was torque by the fork into the axle.

Questions and guidance

Is is possible that the braking energy itself might have

deformed the brake?
deformed the disc?
damaged the wheel hub?
deformed/invisibly fractured the carbon fork?

I'm pretty sure the bike pluging did no major damage.

What was stressed most during braking?

What components shall I replace (apart from re-justifying) to be safe?

Apart from asking a professional bicycle technican for an estimate, are there
things I can check for myself?

Might the fork be damaged by the aforementioned forces?

More background

This happened during a light traffic accident.

Ask for details

Ask for details, more part numbers, measurements or other photos (i.e. of the
scratches) if required to gauge this. If you think there's too much distracting
information, tell me and I'll remove it.

History of later clarifications/additions:

Clarified: double pistons. Rephrased/deduplicated "Course of events" section.


texts: Should I switch to a 13-23T or 12-25T cassette?

texts:
I am currently riding a Fuji Sportif 1.5 with original configuration. I am not using clipless pedals currently.

The bike come with 50/34T chainrings and a 9-speed 11-32T cassette. I noticed that most of the time I am using only 16-24T. Sometimes with 28T for climbing.

As a result, I am considering to switch to a 13-23T or 12-25T cassette. However, I am a newbie and do not have experience of switching cassette.

Are my thoughts correct? Moreover, are there other issues that I have missed? For example, compatibility with my bike.


texts:
Does the nukeproof horizon mtb rim have a brake track? Can I use rim brakes with it?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-horizon-mtb-rim/rp-prod161912


texts: Why are chains sold in fixed lengths rather than by the meter?

texts: Why can't we purchase chain by the meter, in any length, instead of in fixed lengths? Then the chain could be cut to the exact length required, unlike current situation of throwing away several links. This might not be beneficial for end users, but what about large bike shops or even OEM bike manufacturers.


texts:
I've been planning to upgrade my Foxter Evans 3.0 (Low budget Bike) to
lessen it's weight. What should I replace to lessen it? Also I'm a 5'11 person
and my frame is a medium. Should I consider replacing the frame due to incompatibility of my height? I only have $400 budget.

Below are the specs:

24 Speed Gears ! ( 8 x 3 Set Up)
Epixon Fork -- new fork
Shimano Gears
Oversize Bar and Stem
Heavy Duty Alloy Frame Square Tubing
27.5 Bike 5'4 to 5'10
Great Affordable Entry Level 27.5 BikeSpecifications:
Frame: Foxter Alloy 6061 Thick Frame Square Tubing 27.5
Fork: Foxter Suspension with Lock Out
Handlebar: Foxter Oversize Alloy
Stem: Foxter oversize Alloy
Shifter: Shimano 8 Speed Shimano Altus
Brakes: Shimano Hydraulic Brakes
Front Derailleur: Shimano Tourney
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tourney
Crank: Foxter Steel Triple Chainwheel
Cogs: Taiwan 8 Speed
Tires: CST Jet 27.5 x 1.95
Seat Clamp: Quick Release
Rotors: Shimano Rotor Discs

Thank you for those who will answer.


texts: Are Shimano R7000 chainrings (50 and 34T) compatible with Ultegra R8000 crank?

texts:
I need new chainrings due to slipping chain and decided to replace them. I currently have an Ultegra R8000 Chainset and don't want to replace the crank arms (as it is really expensive). Ultegra is almost 50% more expensive for the rings. Will the Shimano 105 R7000 chainrings fit this crank as I have heard different opinions on this and wanted to get some certainty from someone?
Many thanks


texts: Can I put drop handlebars on my commuter bike?

texts:
I want to put drop handlebars on my commuter bike which has a straight bar. The guy at the bike store said that drop handlebars are too thick to fit my standard brake/shift system.

I don't want to change my braking/shifting system. Can i modify my brake levers to increase the diameter so they can fit on dropped handlebars?


texts: Relationship between given width of a tire and actual height

texts: I've spent some time digging around and can't quite find a satisfactory answer here. I have an older (80's) road frame that currently has 622x23 tires. I would like to upgrade to 28mm or even 32mm tires. Generally the issue with larger tires is clearance between the brake calipers. In my case this is not the issue. The calipers themselves are plenty wide to accommodate much larger tires. The problem at hand is the clearance between the top of the tire and the cross beam between the seat stays where the brakes are mounted. It's quite small (3-5) mm. So... Is the diameter of a tire affected in three dimensions, or will a wider tire (28mm vs 23mm) also be "taller" aka vertically higher from the rim. I've seen a few comparisons and tire reviews that imply width and height are separate, but that seems logically impossible based on the inner tube expanding equally in all directions. Any clarification on this would be wonderfully appreciated. Thanks and smooth roads ahead ; )


texts:
I see outer 130 BCD chainrings with 52T/39T.
Why the the 39T in the label?
How does the outer care or know what the inner ring is?
What would be different about  52T/42T?

Does the 39T care what size the bigger is?

I have a 52T/39T that I want to take down to a like a 48T.


texts:
I broke the pedal of an old french bike (Peugeut Mixte 70's). The threading doesn't fit the one in modern pedals.

Now I am wondering if I should insist in finding an old french pedal or if I should rethread the pedal support in order to be able to use modern pedals.

Though, I am a bit scared about rethreading. Can it really be done safely? Is the space between threads the same? Has anyone here done this?


texts:
This has always bugged me. At the end of the season I'm breaking down my bikes and cleaning every inch of them and I get to the derailleur and can't seem to ever get all the junk out of the middle of it! Anyone have any good strategies for getting in by the springs and around the moving parts?

I'm fine with removing the cage and doing jockey wheels, etc., but would prefer to keep the main body together.


texts: Weird whistling from the rear derailleur

texts:
Shimano Deore xt, 10sp. The noise happens only when I change gears for the short period of time when the chain is moving from one sprocket to another. While pedaling on one gear it works well and silent. The chain is not new, but is not worn out, no skipping or jumping etc.

What can be a reason for this?


texts: How to install bicycle pedals without a notch on the spindle?

texts:
I bought a pair of bicycle pedals that to my surprise had no notches on the pedal spindle to use when tightening them. I managed to screw them in by hand, but they are not quite tight since I can't use a spanner on them. So what would be the correct way to tighten them? Are there any special tools or similar that I'm supposed to use?

The offending pedals can be seen below. The spindle is, as you can see, completely smooth.


texts: Ask for Recommendation for Biking Outfits

texts: I am thinking about start cycling other than just riding it around school. I want to make myself look professional. Do you have any advice for me? I don't really know what kind of outfit is suitable for college students. I think I would love to get a shirt or a tank and a bicycle shorts. Thank you in advance. Does bikers have special shoes, too?


texts: what could be the reason for very inacurate strava tracks of my bike excursions?

texts:
I'm not sure if this is the right "forum" to ask the question but I'll try anyway.
So I'm using strava to log my biking excursions. Recently I have noticed that my recorded tracks are very "ugly" - lots of straight lines across several roads and buildings, lots of zigzags and loops.
What could be the reason? I thought that some apps are disturbing gps but the same happens when I kill all the apps. GPS track from my garmin, if both are turned on at the same time, looks much better.
it was not so before, btw.


texts: How much rest (tendon or ligament), for a novice?

texts:
Given that 'training' is a valid topic, can you say how much rest a novice needs?

My ambition is to commute 18 km each way, every week day: in Toronto (mostly flat, some hills, mostly bike lanes and some bike paths). I have a bike and I am currently doing the 18 km in about an hour and a quarter (so, about two and a half hours total per weekday).

My schedule has been:

Full days (18 km each way, 40 km total) since the Tuesday before last (8 days ago)
No riding (complete rest) last weekend (2 days)
About 10 km/day, for the 6 days before that
Virtually no exercise (occasional 1 hour on an exercise cycle) before that (this is a new job and a new bike) ... so, I'm a novice
I'm 49 years old, have a sedentary (computer) job/life-style, male, not over-weight (6 foot / 185 cm and 170 lb / 77 kg).
It's been a little cold (down to about -8C; I've been wearing jeans, and caring more/only about my core temperature, so maybe the back of my knee got cold; certainly my feet got cold sometimes; it wasn't especially cold today though, about +4C, when the pain started)

I've been loving the rides, and I want to continue.

Today I developed a pain at the back of my knee at the top of my left fibula. I don't know whether that's a ligament or a tendon (I'm presuming it's one or the other). I'm using Shimano SPD shoes with the clip at the default position (centre of the ball of the foot). My right knee is fine. The one other thing I do with my left knee is, when I stop, I put my left foot down on the road: which means pointing my left foot down, putting my weight on my left toes (not heel), while my right foot is still on the right pedal; but maybe that's not relevent.

Towards the end of my ride I tried unclipping my left shoe, and rode with the pedal under my arch (instead of under the ball of my foot, to reduce the work being done by my calf ... because I couldn't work out why it's the back of my knee that's hurting: I would have expected the front, if most of the force/work is from the front thigh) and that seemed to help: less acute pain.

I don't care much about short-term pain, except that it might be a warning of worse chronic pain to follow.

Why am I getting that pain there? What should I do or change, to remedy it? Am I resting enough and if not how much more rest should I take?


texts:
I find my right cleat is wearing a lot quicker than my left one.

Usually I start with the left cleat in the pedal and then click the right one in while pushing off. Is the action of inserting the cleat that damaging? or is it the standing on the right foot while waiting?


texts: Cramps/pain in feet and toes after turbo trainer rides and cyclocross races

texts:
Recently I purchased a pair of mtb shoes one size larger than I needed (due to lack of availability and time), sizes I needed: uk 11 the size I purchased: uk 12.

After a turbo trainer rides or cyclocross race I have cramps/pain in feet and toes.

Should I replace the shoes or could it be something else?


texts:
So two days ago I bought a brand new Carrera Sulcata MB. Ever since it came out of the shop the rear brake rubs constantly, but only on one side of the caliper. I've tried realigning by loosening, holding brake and then tightening, but to no avail. I also tried holding the rotor/calipers in a position where they don't rub, but as soon as I tighten the allen key bolt it goes back to rubbing. It doesn't rub when it's not tightened fully but I'm not sure that's very safe. Now they have started to squeak at a certain point of the rotation (very loud) - do I just have to let them bed in or is there anything I can do beforehand? It's quite frustrating.

Thanks!


texts:
I put 26" slicks on my mountain bike so I could get good city riding speed and comfort without worrying about bad patches of road. The tread is mostly worn to having no pattern on both tires after about 750 km of use. Maybe that is typical I'm not sure. They were Kenda brand. The guy at the store showed me 2 models to choose from I took the ones that had higher inflation maximum so I could get them at max air pressure capacity for lower rolling resistance.

How do I know I'm buying a good quality bicycle tire versus just an overpriced one? Or for that matter when is a cheap tire a good value or just poor quality?


texts: Any tips on riding a roll-off, followed by a trench?

texts:
Any tips on riding this section of the trail? The land is sandy and the clearance afterwords is several meters.

I can't ride it slowly, as it is too steep and the sand will slide off. I suspect the suspension could probably handle the trench, but didn't try, let alone for jumping.

What is the correct way to pass this obstacle on a long-travel full-suspension bike? What about a rigid XC bike?


texts: Modifying SKS Race Blade Long for solid axle hubs

texts:
I have a set of SKS Race Blade Long fenders. They have quick release attachments that fit around QR skewers. Unfortunately, I'd like to set these fenders up on my single speed commuter which has track hubs with solid axles (standard diameters of 9mm up front, and 10mm in the rear).

Initial idea: drill the holes in the fender quick release tabs with a battery powered drill to fit around the track hubs' solid axles.

However, I've also seen suggestions for using a round file instead of drilling, or just p-clamps and abandoning the qr tabs. Anyone have any experience that would care to give their thoughts?


texts: I changed my V-brake pads but I can't adjust them correctly

texts: I changed my V-brake pads with new ones but now one of the pads is in touch with the rim all the time while the other one has a normal distance from the rim. Adjusting the cable or spring force didn't help. In case it helps, I attach a photo to the topic.


texts: Effect of helmets and other impressions of the bike rider on driver behaviour?

texts:
Are there any studies on the effect of helmets and/or other impressions of the bike rider, on driver behaviour?

Has anyone collected their own data on things like this?

Has anyone noticed any other slightly unexpected oddities like the two I observed bellow?

Recently I had to ride back home on a road down a 10km route which I've travelled many times before, but without a helmet, the difference in driver behaviour was very noticeable... I got a lot more space, didn't have a single car overtake me dangerously close (though a few were certainly still illegally close).

I've noticed similar differences when i'm sort of practising riding skinnies by staying dead in the middle of the lines at the sides of roads (this seems to give drivers FAR too much confidence to act dangerously... I was already worried about this particular test after just one day, I was actually interested in getting hard data riding on the lines vs normally vs unstable and wobbly (against number of cars coming dangerously close (based on video)) unfortunately i only got as far as anecdotal evidence that skinny practice on road lines is dangerous as hell, that normal riding seems much safer and that wobbling about unstably does seem to make you safer from drivers, but it's easy to get carried away. Then as I was practicing skinnies some twatwaffle hit me with his wing mirror, putting me off balance, scaring the shit out of me, and ending my desire to gather data, while increasing my desire to keep away from asphalt in general.

Those experiments ended, and I never thought about it much till the helmet incident recently... I'm certainly not intending to do the no helmet experiment myself, so I was wondering is there any real data for this kind of thing, or any other interesting phenomenons to do with driver and cyclist etc?


texts: Chain not sliding into casette perfectly

texts:
I have a RD 7900 derailleur and a standard 105 28t casette.

After replacing my wheelset I observed after I put my bike on the workstand that the chain is not sliding in perfectly into the casette cogs in the lowest (28t) gear, all other gears are fine.

It makes some sort of grinding noies because, spoiler alert, the casette teeth are grinding on the chain rings and "forcing them" into place.

The derailleur is indexed and high low screws are properly set. I also dont think the derailleurs bent but I cant make that judgement with my bare eye.

How do I adjust my derailleur so that the teeth on the casette will fit perfectly in the chain ?


texts: Can't get lowest gear and derailleur shifts on its own

texts:
I have a bike with downtube friction shifters and a 5 speed freewheel. When I bought the bike a while ago the shifters weren't connected so I did it myself. At this point it all worked fine. I took it to the local bike shop to check out what I had done, as I had never done it before. He did some adjustments (I don't know exactly what) and ever since I have had trouble with getting the lowest gear (biggest cog) and the derailleur shifts automatically back down to the smallest cog.
I have checked:

the cable - it is tight
the limit screws - they are fine
the shifter - even when tightened I have the same problem

Today I notice three things:

the cable binder bolt on the rear derailleur is loose, so it spins on its attachment to the derailleur. I assume this is a problem.
the cable is frayed after only a couple of months use
in order to move gears I have to put a huge amount of pressure on the shifter and it only uses about one third of the possible span of movement. When I set it up in the first place the lowest gear and highest gear were almost 180 degrees apart on the lever (if that makes sense).

I now need to replace the cable but how can I fix the derailleur issue? Does it just need replacing? I put a photo showing the position of the derailleur in 1st gear to check if the chain is the correct length.
I don't really want to go to the bike shop again as he isn't the friendliest person....
Many thanks for your help.
Gill

! This is the shifter position when it is on the big cog.


texts: Electrochemical corrosion - bolts holding axles

texts:
I suspect similar questions like this have been asked before, but rules on this stackexchange require that I create a separate thread.  So please bear with me.
I believe galvanic corrosion happens between electrically connected dissimilar metals and that it is accelerated under certain environmental conditions.  I have two cases that I want to understand.
The first is a Paramount Series 3 all stock components and in pristine condition, and the second is a 2020 Cinelli Tuto frame with some random assemblage that I do not have prior history of, and it has rust around the crank, the rear toothed gear, and the bolts that attach the front and real axles (hubs?) to the frame.
The Paramount has shown minimal corrosion over its 20 year life, and specifically around these various locations.  It uses Shimano quick-release skewers for the front and rear wheels with Shimano RX100 (HB-A550) wheel axles. The Cinelli uses the HJC DA-17 ETRTO axle attached with steel bolts. Based on its sheen, the axle seems to be made from aluminum (I could be wrong).
Question: generally, is this steel-bolt-aluminum-axle combination common?  Would that be true of the Shimano, and do I just need to get weather treated skewers for the Cinelli, or just the right bolts?  It's possible these bolts were purchased from McMaster without any attention paid to corrosion resistance.
Thanks!
Edit: Adding pictures, as suggested by Armand below.


texts: What's the purpose of this part of Topeak Hexus II multitool?

texts:
What is the purpose of this part of my Topeak Hexus II tool?

I can't find anything in the manual.


texts: Any idea which model & year my Giant bike is?

texts:
I bought my giant bike a few months ago and want to sell it and upgrade. Do you guys have any idea the year or the mode from the photos.
Ignore the decals as I put them on myself. Serial is - gp101947


texts: I'm upgrading wheels on a cross bike. My new wheels are centerlock disc whereas current ones are iso 6-bolt, so I have to buy some new centerlock rotors. I'm confused about the lock rings. Shimano centerlock rotors seem to ship with some kind of lock ring, whereas SRAM centerline rotors don't. What are these lock rings and do I need to buy them separately if I go with the SRAM rotors?


texts: What should I look for in choosing wheels for a road bike?

texts:
I have a commuting/touring bike and my riding is a good bit of commuting mixed with weekend rides of up to 50 miles.

In my lame knowledge, I'll assume that lighter wheels can be had when you spend more money, but what are other things to look for or avoid when choosing wheels for a non-racing bike?


texts:
I'm starting to look for a new bike, and have grown accustomed to shopping online (or at least, pricing online) for just about everything I buy. One feature that makes online shopping especially appealing is the ability to search through an online database with constraints. For example, when shopping for a computer, I could start with all computers sold by an online retailer. Then I could filter out anything without 8GB of RAM. Then, from those, select just the machines with a certain processor, and so on.

When I look around for bikes online, I cannot find any such database. For example, I'd like to be able to start with all models 2010-present, then select only those with internal gear hubs, then only those with 8 or more speeds, and so on.

My question comes in two parts:

Is there a database or online retailer like this?
If not, why not?

Note:
I'm not opposed to supporting my LBS, but like to consider as many options as possible when making large purchases. In this case, I'd like to price out many different options and consider tradeoffs on price vs. functionality at home rather than at the shop, but would probably still buy there.


texts: What is a suitable Gear Range for Biking on Flat Rail Trails

texts:
My wife and I are 70 and are planning a purchase for relaxed riding exclusively on smooth (packed cinder/crushed stone) rail trails. We’re looking at comfort bikes like the Jamis Hudson Sport and the Giant/Liv Sedona with a preference for 7 speeds. Our area is hilly but the rail trails are not.

Thoughts on the choice of bikes and the preference of 7 speeds instead of 21 for this type of riding?


texts: Trek7200: new bracket,crank,chain,&shift cables. Deraillers set Trek manual. Good stand results, but stumbles riding up incline

texts: Trek 7200 Bike: new bracket, crank, chain, & shift cables. Derailleurs set to Trek manual. Good stand results, but bike stumbles riding up incline on middle of 8 gears.


texts:
I am curious if anyone has any interesting books (preferred) or blogs on training for cycling.

Right now I ride for a couple hours twice a week, I have a short 15 min commute to work and I ride for half a day every weekend.  I just moved to a new city so I am mostly riding by myself but I want to improve my speed, distance and fitness.

I was hoping that someone could suggest me a good book about cycling training.