texts:
I have a strange problem with my clipless pedal float becoming restricted. I recently installed Shimano M520 SPD pedals on my bike, with SM-SH51 cleats on SixSixOne Expert MTB shoes. A few weeks after initial set-up, the right side started not floating correctly. The float range felt reduced, and even within that range the float felt like it had more friction/restriction and didn't glide like the other side. A very experienced (40+ years) bike fitter looked at it and was completely perplexed. We switched out the pedal -- no difference. Switched out the cleat and the problem seemed to be fixed. The only noticeable cleat wear was in the center of the trailing tab thing, on the surface facing down when pedaling (strangely, from what I can see, that part doesn't contact the pedal when clipped in).

It's now been 1 1/2 weeks since the cleat was installed, and the problem has returned (got gradually worse just the last few days), but there isn't the same wear pattern on the cleat. The float feels really tight, high friction, reduced range.

Things I've done to try to fix it: I cleaned around the cleat, made sure the cleat bolts were tight, checked for contact between shoe and pedal (normal; consistent with good side), and examined for any cleat wear (none perceptible). I tried clipping the right shoe into the left side by hand, but it's hard to tell any difference when not actually on the bike. Update: I tried using some silicone lube - helped for my morning commute (~10 mi), but evening commute was back to bad.

Has anyone experienced abnormal cleat float resistance/friction/reduction? Could the shoe be contributing to this? Any ideas what I could check or change?


texts: Is there a resource that lists certifications for all available helmets?

texts:
Is there a reference on on-line source of information on what certifications have been awarded to all helmets currently available on the market?

For example I'm specifically trying to determine what certifications the 2011 POC Trabec Race Helmet has, but can find no sites that list them. (The manufacturer has a list for it's own products, but does not include this helmet.)


texts:
I've noticed that 10-speed chains cost 2.5 times as much as their 9 speed counterparts. Is this just because there isn't much demand for these, so the manufacturers can justify the ridiculous expense?

Is there a cheaper option?


texts: Why does my road bike come with only one valve adapter?

texts: My front tire has the skinny valve (I believe it is a Presta) and so does my rear tire. But my rear tire also has a screw-on piece that goes over the valve which I believe to be an adapter. Do they simply provide one adapter because it is cheaper and you can move it from one tire to the other?


texts: Fuelling multi-day riding (carb loading/replacement)

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Carb loading (cycling weekly)  is reckoned to be useful for exercise over about 90 minutes, so is probably a good idea for all-day riding.  Done properly you're taking on extra carbs starting 36--48 hours before the event.

I've seen some advice online but it's all from gel/energy drink manufacturers, so biased towards their products and away from proper food.

So: How does this translate to multi-day riding? Or in more detail:

Is it as simple as starting loading 48 hours before the first leg, and taking on as much as you can during/between the rides?
Should you start fuelling earlier in the first leg than you would if the next day was a rest day?
Should dinner in between be heavy on the carbs to partially refuel, or contain plenty of protein for recovery?
Is it very different to fuelling the same distance in a single ride

Example (though the question is meant to be a general one):

For rides of a century (160 km) or more I attempt to do it properly rather than just scoffing a big plate of pasta the night before.  For shorter (e.g. 100 km) rides I might or might not bother.  A week from now I've got a 100 km ride on the Saturday afternoon followed by 200 km on the Sunday.  I'm not planning to set any PRs and it's not going to be hilly but for the first and last 100 km I'll be loaded for camping, so I reckon on 5--6 hours door-to-door the first day and 11-12 the second.  I have a reasonable tolerance for gels, but get on better mixing them with real food.

A couple of related questions:

Eating during a 170 mile ride
Food for 400+km ride? (in single session) [closed]


texts:
My freewheel pawls recently shattered and I was wondering if the new one I am about to order will work.

New freewheel at ebay

The only difference I noticed was the new sprocket is more spread out.


texts: Would the seating position of a road bike cause issues with prescription glasses

texts: I currently use a mountain bike to commute to work but I am keen to switch to a bike more suited to commuting. I have been looking at road and cyclecross bikes but I am concerned the more horizontal seating position of these sorts of bikes would cause issue with my glasses; specifically, I would end up peering over the top of my lenses rather than through them. Is this a common problem? Do I need to worry?


texts: Can I use a 9-speed shifter with a 8-speed cassette?

texts:
I'm looking into replacing shifters on my MTB. Currently I have 8-speed Shimano Alivio shifters - will 9-speed Deore or SLX shifters work? I do not care if one of the shifter's position will be unreachable.

Later I may replace the cassette to 9 speed to, but I do not want to do this right now.


texts: Crankset replacement for TERN Verge D9 (9 gear folding bike)

texts:
I need assistance with replacing the crankset on my Tern Verge D9 folding bike.
The pedals threads are ruined - presumably due to cross threading.
Nothing immediate comes from googling - but I am looking for assisitance as to a replacement.
The info engraved on the drive-side crank says "PROWHEEL Forged Ounce 170"
Any info you can give would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Bought new chain. Do I have to remove links?

texts:
I have this bike I got it from wal-mart many years ago. Same as this one on amazon:  Denali

The chain rusted. I noticed that it listed the chain on amazon. Chain: KMC Z 51
I bought this one.

I'm trying to put it on and figure out how it goes through the derailleur I think I figured it out. But it seems too big. Maybe I just didn't put it on right.

Do I need to resize the chain to fit my bike? Are they standard sizes?


texts: Are there other explanations for slow tyre pressure loss?

texts:
I rode my road bike on Friday and the tyres were at the correct pressure then, around 100psi.  On Tuesday, I jumped on without checking them and quickly realised something was wrong with the rear tyre.  It wasn't completely flat but was fairly soft.  I hadn't gone far so went home and took the car to work instead.  When I got home later, I was surprised to find the tyre, while still soft, hadn't lost all pressure by any means.  It was around 40psi and felt the same as when I left it in the morning.

I decided there must be a slow leak somewhere, but I couldn't find one anywhere, putting the inner under water and going around it methodically looking for bubbles.  I've never failed to find a leak before that way.

I've switched it out anyway because I don't want to mess around with my commute, but I'm curious ... is there another explanation for that amount of pressure loss?  Or must there have been a puncture somewhere that I missed somehow?

The tyres (whole bike) are pretty new and in excellent condition.


texts: Praxis Bottom Bracket Performance on BB30 Frame

texts:
I'm looking at upgrading the crank (stock FSA to Force 22) and getting a Praxis BB for my Cannondale CAAD10 BB30 frame.

http://www.praxiscycles.com/product/conv-bb-sramgxp-isis-2/

It seems like Praxis espouses an outboard bearing setup because of the increased BB width and rigidity (they claim) this provides.

I'm wondering if it is in fact worth it (noticeable performance upgrade/stiffness) to use a Praxis BB in concert with a GXP crank on a frame that is meant to take a BB30 crank naturally?

One major, non-performance, advantage I can think of is ease of access to the bearings.  I commute daily through downtown Chicago and bike components tend to get dirty and gritty fast in this area, and others too.  I'm thinking it might be worth it just to be able to service my BB at home without worrying about special tools, bearing pushers/pullers, etc.

Has anyone had success with Praxis on a BB30 frame?


texts: Rear derailleur not shifting first time from lowest gear

texts: I am installing new cables and trying to reconnect the rear derailleur. I can the gears indexed perfectly on the way up but when I try to shift down from the lowest gear (biggest cog) it doesn’t move until the 2nd click. It then shift down normally until I get I get all the way down to the last click on the shifter and it skips the second highest gear to return to the highest gear (smallest cog). Anybody have any idea what is going wrong? brand new cable which has been greased well and I have checked for snags etc and all looks ok.


texts: I've seen it advertised but never used it, what's it for? Is it effective ?


texts: Bearings vs. bushings in rear derailleur jockey wheels - which should be more resistant to contamination?

texts:
This question came up in a forum I frequent. As background, many of us are familiar with ball bearings, as they are used in many places on bikes: the bottom bracket, the hubs, the headset, etc. Not all of us may be familiar with bushings, which look like this image from the Wikipedia link:

Basically you just put an axle through there. The axle rotates against the bushing. Bushings may not be as frequently used on bikes, but they are often part of MTB suspension components, and they may be used in your rear derailleur. Bronze has been used for bushings in other applications, but on bikes, plastic bushings appear to be more common.

This test by Ceramic Speed showed that some rear derailleur pulleys (aka jockey wheels) rotate on bushings, and some rotate on ball bearings. In particular, they showed that for Shimano's 105 rear derailleurs, both pulley wheels use bushings. In Ultegra, one wheel uses a bushing and the other uses a bearing. In Dura Ace, both wheels use bearings. And Ceramic Speed measured about half a watt of friction savings going from 105 to Ultegra, and the same from Ultegra to Dura Ace. So, perhaps bearings have lower friction when not contaminated.

However, some of the posters in the thread said that in their experience, bearings wore out faster, or they could seize in a muddy race.

The question is: are bushings actually more resistant to contamination than sealed bearings, or do they operate better under contamination than sealed bearings? If true, can anyone explain why this is so? In cycling, this is potentially a big deal if you just regularly commute in bad weather, plus it obviously might be a concern in mountain biking, cyclocross, or gravel.

I'm aware that you can clean both bearing- or bushing-based jockey wheels. However, I have to be frank - I basically just replaced the pulleys when they were worn. I bet many riders do the same. That said, I do intend to pay more attention to cleaning those things out now that I have a gravel bike, and to do so on my road bike also. This post on SE asked about cleaning jockey wheels, and the poster referred to the innards as bearings, but the picture does seem to show a bushing, as indicated by Nathan Knutson.


texts: How much energy loss should there be in an internal hub 8-speed?

texts:
I've recently acquired a Specialized Globe Haul 2, which was stored in a shed in Arkansas for 10 years and never ridden. It has the original Shimano Alfine 8 speed internal hub.  I replaced the tires and tubes, and greased the chain (which I believe is stainless), but compared to my Trek 7.2 with external gears, it feels very sluggish.  I'm not sure if the grease needs to be replaced in the hub, or if it is getting too cold outside (northern Wisconsin weather), but there is enough friction on the inside of the hub that my pedals will spin along with the wheel if I let my feet off of them.  I'd like to use this bike since it is a lot more weatherproof, but biking through 5 miles of slush at night to get to work is already difficult enough.  Is this typical of internal hubs?

EDIT: Although the answered question linked to in the comments clears it up a little bit, it doesn't answer what would change over 10 years of storage for the grease in the hub nor the effects on extremely cold weather would have on performance.  When I have the time I'm just going to take it apart and regrease it, and then post my results.  It's an SG-S501, which from what I could find on the manual and youtube is grease only, no oil.  There does not appear to be a grease or oil port so the whole thing has to come apart.


texts: What do you call the plastic bit that mounts brake cable housing to dedicated frame mounting spots?

texts: I lost a couple and have no idea what to search for online.


texts: I just purchased a Trek multitrack 750 1996 in black. I found it in almost perfect condition and want to upgrade the tires. What is the max tire size you can run on the 750 without any clearance issues?


texts: First time taking the cranks off. The bolts, chinrings and drive side came out easy. Left is stuck. Should I open, pull or do something particular for it to come out?


texts: What are some ways to keep biking when you have a car?

texts: I used to ride back and forth from work for 16 mi. every day. I recently bought a car for snow rain and such, but it has killed my drive to get out and bike. I was wondering how other people integrate biking into their life when they also have a car?


texts: I recently bought a bike and I'm looking at getting some lights for riding at night. I live pretty well lit city so I would just want them to make me more visible to drivers. What kind of things should I look for when purchasing lights for my bike?


texts: Bottom bracket square taper (cartridge) extraction, too tight in one side

texts:
I'm getting weird noises coming from the bottom bracket (BB from now on), and I wanted to extract it to check if the problem is there or not.

The guide video I used is no longer public (free) as when I saw it the first time.

I've been successful extracting on another bike, but on this one, I have two issues:

On the right side (drive side), made of metal, the extraction key
doesn't fit! the key seems to be about 2mm wider than the
circumference of the side, as seen on the picture below. I assume
something distorted this side, this bike fell once, but I doubt this
was damaged by that.
The left side is made of plastic, and my hope was (because of the
issue on the right side), to unscrew this side first, but it is very
tight and I am fearful of it breaking if I apply more strength. By
the way, the key fits perfectly on this side.

I've done this before on another BB and it came out just fine.

A picture to illustrate this:

Finally the question(s):

Is there a different technique to extract this BB?

Is there hope in salvaging this BB? it may not be the part making the noise.

Any guess on why the right side is tighter?


texts: Does a seatpost affect the rigidity of the frame?

texts:
Is it possible to use a zero offset seatpost to make the bike frame more rigid?

I consider the Crank Brothers Cobalt 1 Straight Seatpost.


texts: Are hydraulic disc brakes more sensitive to rubbing with warped rotors?

texts:
Unlike mechanical (cable) disc brakes which feature a brake pad spring and where you have to adjust pad distance manually; hydraulic disc brake pad distance is regulated automatically and many hydros have no piston retraction spring at all.

Does the lack of pad distance adjustment make hydraulic disc brakes more susceptible to rubbing on slightly warped rotors?


texts: Type of permitted folding bikes on London trains & Tube?

texts:
I have found quite a bit of information about taking folding bikes on trains and the Tube in London. Specifically it says you can take a folding bike pretty much anywhere.

However, having examined the small print of various train companies in the UK there is usually a distinction drawn between Bromptons and the rest, i.e. Bromptons, which obviously fold up really small, are considered "true" folding bikes while the other types of folders appear to inhabit some regulatory grey area, halfway between a folder and a non-folder.

I'm contemplating buying a Montague Crosstown. As you can see there, this has full-size wheels. Even if I wrap this in a bag I would anticipate getting some nasty looks if I take that on a busy-ish Tube / train in London, but I can cope with nasty looks.  Does anyone know what the actual regulations are?


texts:
I just got an old, worn and rusty MultiTrack 750. I like the older MTB/ATB frames so I wold like to use this. The size fits me perfect but it rusty... What would you do?

I've looked in the old catalogues but can't find this bike.

If so I would like to make it useable but not necessarily with original parts.

Update. I filed away all rust and have been painting it myself.


texts: the thread for screwing in the pedal has been stripped on right side. Any way to avoid buying a whole new crank?

texts:
Put a new pedal in, and followed advice not to screw it in too hard. Unfortunately, I made it too loose... and the thread on the right crank is now almost completely stripped because the pedal was moving around and abrading it.

Is there any way to replace just the right arm?


texts: Can I pedal my bicycle backwards to move it backwards?

texts: Is there any changes I could do to my cycle so that I can make it move backwards?Just a question out of eagerness.


texts: Hi. I want to buy this bike. Is it hydraulic?


texts: How do I adjust this adjustable quill stem? Any ideas? [SOLVED]

texts:
I can't tilt lower the stem.

There is a bolt underneath the horizontal stem. I loosened it and am able to tilt the stem up from 30 to 40 degrees. I want to lower it though but for some reason cannot move it down lower than 30.

I don't really understand the instruction label. The bolt on the side is very tight. I tried loosening but was hesitant because some ppl say not to loosen the side bolt but the instructions seem to say to do it.

edit: as a note it's important to remove the locking plate under the tightening bolt beneath the stem.

What should I try?


texts: Can I swap in a 2x Shimano 600 FC-6400 crankset to replace a 3x RX-100 crankset?

texts: I have a 2x Shimano 600 FC-6400 crankset. Can I just replace the 3x RX-100 crankset? Will I need a new BB? thanks in advance!


texts: Tubeless issues: New UST (Mavic Comete pro) with Pirelli Cinturato velo but lots of leaking at the bead

texts:
I have been trying to get the Pirelli cunturato velo's (26C) to mount on the Mavic Comete pro (19c inner rim width) which as UST I have not used rim tape. The installation was tough, and I did have to use leavers to get the tire on, but tried to be careful and am pretty sure I went no where near the tape. I pumped initially without sealant, and then when I heard the tires mount in the bead with a loud pop, and checked everything was seated corrected, I added sealant and pumped up. I have given the tires a good shake, let them lie down on either side too to try and get the sealant to the places it was needed. I used 10ml more than on the bottle as they are a new system and when the tires are fully deflated I can feel the sealant in there.
But after 24 hours and multiple pumps and trying to get the sealant to where it's needed, they are still leaking very badly. I tested with water and there is around 5 or 6 places on one of the rims where air is shooting out, one or two places on the other.
Any suggestions?


texts: I am 1.7 m tall and bought a MTB with a frame that is 3-5 cm too big

texts:
The frame is 5 cm too big for me (in the length from seat to handles). I have major discomfort in my shoulders. After getting a shorter stem, the shoulders are 95% improved, but the "jewels" go dead after ~25 km.

Is this still the size issue or what else can I play around with?


texts: Is the KMC X8 a better quality option for an 8 speeds chain?

texts:
I sell a lot of SRAM PC830 chains that I buy in bulk.
The KMC X8 has, I think, nickel plated outer links.
Other than that, it claims to have mushroomed rivets and the X-Bridge outer plate.
Does that make it a better quality or more durable chain?
I'm looking for a better or more durable 8 speeds option for my customers, but even the KMC websites won't confirm if the outer links are nickel plated or not.
Thank you.


texts: How to convert my lotus 2000r into a single speed

texts:
Hello everyone I bought a lotus 2000r and am currently converting it into a single speed.

(Generic photo of a lotus 2000r from google images)

I wanted to know if I can put this wheel from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Rear-1-1-Silver-Bolt/dp/B000AO3GK2

Then use a cog like this

http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-DX-Single-Speed-Freewheel
on that wheel. Thanks for the help.


texts: Does exercising solely through cycling cause injuries?

texts:
I get most of my exercise through cycling. Does cycling without cross-training cause injuries? If so, are there specific injuries to which cyclists are susceptible (knee, hip, etc.), and is it possible to prevent them?

Assume that the bike is well fitted, since bike fit and knee pain is discussed in the question:
How to adjust seat saddle and saddle position for knee pain?
Other related questions include: How to avoid knee pain when cycling,
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14971/should-cyclists-use-weight-training-to-strengthen-underutilized-muscles, and How can I get rid of I.T. Band pain caused by cycling?


texts: What is a nipple driver and would I use one to replace a broken spoke?

texts:
I have not yet built a wheel (or even replaced a broken spoke), so it's not quite clear to me what a nipple driver is. I also didn't find any reference on Sheldon Brown's Wheelbuilding page.

What is a nipple driver and how is it used? Is it a necessity or a convenience? Would I use one when replacing a broken spoke?


texts: Effective 'equipment minimal' leg strength training for cycling?'

texts:
What are the most effective 'no equipment' (bodyweight only) or 'equipment minimal' strength exercises for cyclists? There's a lot of info out there about core strength, so I'm working on that. However, I'm thinking now specifically about leg strength right now.

I've 'plateaued' in recent years despite lots of quality miles and time on the bike. I think it's time to seriously look at increasing strength to step it up a notch. However, I hate gyms and the associated costs, egos, etc. so I'm looking for exercises I can do at home with no/little equipment. I have a 65cm Swiss Ball, some 15lb dumbbells, but that's about it.


texts: Looking for components needed to route 3 cables on top of toptube for cyclocross bike

texts:
My bike is setup for cable routing under the downtube. I would like to route my rear brake, front derailleur, and rear derailleur cables along the top tube of a bike I plan to use for cyclocross to prevent the exposed cables from getting gunked up frequently with mud or snagged on things when I'm riding through brush in the woods (really bad in the spring / early summer). Reduced maintinance is my goal, I'm willing to take the weight penalty for that since I'm ultimately not ever standing on a podium.

I'd prefer not to use complete housing over the whole top tube, but I'll accept that I'll need to do that and use 6 cable clips (3 in front, and 3 in rear) if there are no better options.

So, I figure I need two things.
1) Something to keep cables on the top tube.
2) A clamp on cable stop to help terminate the brake cable on the seat tube for the front shifter (I've got a mountain derailleur which goes top or bottom pull)

I've seen a 2 cable clamp on solution for 2 cables, the problem solvers backstop, but that doesn't work for 3 cables. What are my options here?


texts:
I have butterfly shaped handlebars on my hybrid bicycle.  These were an aftermarket addition.

These allow for different positions but I would like to add another set of handlebars with a wider position above the butterfly handlebars.

There is a component that allows this attachment of additional handlebars but I do not know what it is called.  This looks like two bars with loops on each end and they are positioned on to the existing handlebars and affixed then to the additional handlebars above the existing.

Can anybody help with the name of this component and where to get them?


texts: Old Soviet Bike - Turist XB3 - What size pedals are these?

texts:
I have a Turist XB3 1985 turist bike from 1985, made in Soviet Union. What size pedals are these running? I have measured the diameter and it is somewhere around 12.5 - 13mm. Could this be true that it fits 1/2" pedals?

Thank you


texts: What should I consider when buying a respirator?

texts:
I'm using my bicycle to ride from home to work and back. Now I face a problem that the air is not so clean: dust, car exhaust etc.

So I'm thinking of buying a respirator (i.e., an anti-pollution mask) to filter the air I breathe.

But before I buy it I need advice on what should I consider when first choosing one?

update

I've got a respro bandit now and it seems to be what I needed. It really does it's job filtering the air well and doesn't make it too hard to breathe.


texts:
Firstly I'd like to mention that I don't think this issue is related to contamination (at least from sprays etc) and I'm aware of the following 2 threads:

Disc brake stop working after wash,

How do I get my hydraulic disc brakes working well again

I'm having trouble with the rear brake on my mountain bike. It's running Shimano XT (BR-M8000). The braking power seems very feeble and I'm getting a squeal as the bike slows to near-stop.

So far I have tried cleaning throughly with alcohol, brake cleaner and even taken the rotors of and cleaned them with soapy water followed by isopropyl alcohol. I've keyed the pad with emery paper and even swapped the pads out.

I've bled the brake twice and the initial feeling through the lever is good. I did my best to get all the air out and extended the reach to get a greater pull on it.

I wondered whether I'd glazed the rotors and replaced them with brand new (and cleaned) rotors as I'd been meaning to do so for some time to reduce noise.

My new rotors a some Shimano Ice Tech 160mm centre-lock so should be the right gauge. I've bedded them in without dousing with water as some do. The front brake is a larger rotor but bites really well. I can't even skid the back wheel.

I don't think the calliper is leaking but I haven't done extensive checks to see. I did get what felt like a much better brake when I got them covered in sandy mud. After I cleaned the bike with muc-off the brake was back to being pants again.

My next steps were going to be to check the brake hose for weak spots and/or bulges. Replace the hose if needed.

Last option is to empty the system and clean the calliper and remove, clean and reseal the calliper pistons.

Is there anything else I can do before I go down these routes?


texts:
I have a problem. Today I was riding (flat-out) up hill, and went to shift up a gear on the rear, which caused the chain to drop off the front chain-ring (was in the big-ring, so dropped to the outside). (For reference, road bike with Shimano 105, 52/39 and 25/12)

Throughout the ride it dropped a few more times - generally under some form of load. I noticed that it wasn't always dropping off the big chain ring. Occasionally when taking off from lights (in the little ring), when I stood up to get going, the chain would fall off the front chain ring, to the inside.

Is it possible this is anything other than incorrect limit screws? Maybe something out of:

Chain problem (stiff link? But looks OK)
Chain-ring worn (this is on a ~4 year old road bike, maybe 25,000km without chaning front chain rings, but they don't have the 'shark-tooth' pattern)
Bent hanger?

Edit: Here is a look at the chainring


texts:
I've got one of these stems:

It's currently fully inserted into the bike, and it's too low for me.

Can I simply loosen it, raise it 5cm and tighten it again?

What's the minimum length that should be inserted? will there be markings like on the seatpost?

The stem is Aluminum. The frame is Steel.


texts: Can I fit a compact cassette with a long cage derailleur?

texts:
my bike currently has a combination of 50X34 crankset and an 11x32 cassette and it looks like my rear derailleur is a long cage. I'm buying new wheels and I want to take the opportunity to try and buy a more compact cassette, maybe an 11x30 or 11x28. My question is, will I have problems with my current derailleur? Do I need to make some modifications?
Thanks in advance


texts: Should I replace these cassette and chainring?

texts:
I saw my bicycle chain very dirty so after many months since last time I cleaned it and I checked the general state of the drivetrain. I totally forgot that a couple of years ago the chain was already somewhat stretched.

I found what looks like a very worn out chainring, a very stretched chain and a cassette in a mixed state.

Chain is 1.8% elongated.

Chainring:

Cassette: it looks like the 2nd sprocket is the most worn out, the 1st, 3rd and 4th not so much. It is a Maillard Helicomatic so I cannot easily find new sprockets, and probably not new in any case. I may need to replace the whole wheel. I wonder when this bicycle has been manufactured...

Which parts is good idea to replace now, given the actual status?


texts:
I have a pair of Castelli Neoprene gloves. They are just over a year old and one of them has a tear up one of the gauntlet sleeves and various smaller holes on the thumb, fingers and the palm.

All of the tears / holes appear to be along seam lines, which appear to be stitched, but not quite.

Would it be better to repair these tears by stitching, or gluing, I have seen some wetsuit glue that I assume can be used on Neoprene gloves


texts: B-screw adjustment in a derailleur with a spring in the upper pivot (Shimano RD-5800)

texts:
I have tried to follow ParkTool adjustment tips for the B-screw of the rear derailleur (other company's tips are similar) , but I fail to detect the condition "the upper pulley rubs the largest cog".

I have completely unscrew (removed) the B-screw, but even shifting from the second largest to the largest cog shows no interference.

I can, of course, make the upper pulley rub the cog, if I manually rotate the rear derailleur towards the cog. The problem is that the adjustment of the B-screw cannot reproduce this symptom.

Is that normal, or should I worry my rear derailleur was mal-installed?

For your information, the instructions I have followed for the B-screw adjustment are the following:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment#article-section-5

EDIT: I think it may be a chain length problem, as if the tension was reduced (longer chain), the upper pulley might touch the cog depending on B-screw adjustments. I will check the equations to calculate the chain length and compare against the existing chain.


texts: What is the difference between a threaded bottom bracket and one with press-fit bearings?

texts: What is the purpose of a threaded bottom bracket like the kinds sold by Shimano etc.? How does this differ from a design in which bearings, spacers and seals are directly press-fit into a bike frame? Are both options useable on the same frames, or do they serve the same purpose but for different frame constructions?


texts: Would too small of a mountain bike frame cause lower back pain?

texts:
I'm just under 6' 2" and recently got a Large transition patrol. I'm right on the cusp of needing an XL frame. Anyway, I had a Large patrol before and am noticing now as I did then that my lower back gets really tired after a good intense downhill session. My back feels fine pedaling up and around.

I recently had a Large Santa Cruz Chameleon and didn't notice back pain at all. I'm guessing I'm riding quite a bit harder with the full suspension now.

Anyway, I can't quite figure it out. Is there something about the enduro geometry + a frame size that would lead to downhill-induced lower back fatigue/pain? Any thoughts?

I might just need to strengthen my core a bunch. It's odd. I haven't had back pain except with this.


texts: Is my bike fit a problem, I'm experiencing achilles tendon pain?

texts: My calves are super tight when I finish my ride, and my Achilles are sore for days after a 20 mile rolling hill ride. Could it be that my seat height is too low? If not, what could be the root cause?


texts:
I am putting my old cane creek 200 sl brakes on a different bike. I've had these brakes sitting around for awhile and I don't recall any problems the last time I had them on a bike.

But, on this new bike, the full calipers themselves loose, both front and back brakes, and has a wobble to it. I'm not getting great braking power and suspect this is why.

Could these brakes be the wrong size for the frame? It's an older Legnano steel road  (pretty similar to the 80s bianchi style road frames), and I am not sure how to figure the compatibility.


texts: How can I avoid thigh chafing despite already wearing cycling shorts?

texts:
About one year ago, when I first started cycling, I noticed that during long trips (60km or more) I get skin burns on the inside of my quads. That is when I decided to buy myself a nice pair of cycling shorts with nice padding.

I read in several forums that in order to minimize the friction, one needs a very tight fit of the shorts and also underwear was a no-no.

However this remedy has stopped working for me. Now I am going to try to put some Kinesio tape on the skin, when the most friction is applied.

Is not wearing an underwear a bad idea? What can I do to prevent skin burn in that delicate area?

Clarification:
I have always been using my stock GIANT saddle, that I would categorize as a medium size.


texts: what are good training program for offroad racing?

texts: I am just getting into racing, and like offroad more. I'm also a runner so I'm used to training programs. I wondered are there any of these for bike racing, and specifically offroad?


texts: Formula to calculate Single Speed Chain Length from Chainring Size, Cog Size, and Chainstay Length

texts:
I've seen formulas to calculate chain length for multi-speed bikes, but I need something for single speed.

Example:
42T Chainring
17T Cog
406mm (16") Chainstay Length

The answer in this case should come to ~94L.


texts: How do you install a bicycle pedal without a wrench?

texts: My bicycle pedal fell off today while riding to work. I don't have a wrench at work. How can I install the pedal again so I can safely ride home?


texts: Derailleur compatibility with Shimano 5500 shifters

texts:
Working on an old bike with a hodgepodge of groupset components - 5500 "105 flight deck" shifters (apparently 9 speed from what I've been able to work out online), a 3x Sora crankset, and a 9 speed cassette in the rear. The rear derailleur was an old Ultegra whose outer cage plate literally snapped off while cranking on a particularly steep incline (the thing was literally caked in the nastiest grime I've ever seen on a bike for years - not my doing, just started riding it a month ago). I would ideally like to replace the derailleur with an unused component but am having a hard time figuring out compatibility with this system - I can't find any rear derailleur corresponding to the 5500 series via google searches and the more modern 105 options are all either 10 or 11 speed. I'm new to the bike repair game and so far have come to understand that my main restriction is the number of speeds has to match between the shifters and the derailleur, but I've also seen some sources say that the cable tension standards for groupsets can change in big generational overhauls.

Ultimately, I'm first and foremost looking for any suggestions regarding compatible derailleurs for this bike as well as some pointers on what to look out for when considering component compatibility in the future.


texts: Switching from a dérailleur to a gear hub

texts:
I'm upgrading an old bike with a five speed dérailleur system which I'm trying to convert to use a three speed gearhub from Shimano. I have assembled the wheel, I know how to set up the gearhub itself, but there's one question that bothers me: the chain.

Currently, the dérailleur pulls the chain and keeps it in tension. When I install the gearhub wheel, the dérailleur itself is ought to go away, but as I understand I need to keep the chain tight. Should I make it shorter or install another pulley? Is it possible to somehow reconfigure the dérailleur to pull the chain as a temporary solution until I do it properly?


texts: I have a noisy drive train on my Trek road bike with Shimano 105.  It's very noticeable on the big cog, and is not as bad on the small cog, but still irritating. It's just a constant whiring noise. I am going to give it a clean all around, but it is really not too dirty at all at the moment, and i don't think that will be the solution.  Any ideas where else to look?


texts: Exceptions to 3/8x24 for coaster axle threads?

texts: Is there such a thing as a contemporary coaster hub that uses 10x1 or 3/8x26? Trying to figure something out without the bike in front of me.


texts: Putting rear hand brakes onto a 16" Diamondback Jr Viper

texts: I'm trying to add rear hand brakes onto a 16" bike for my son.  I've seen other online versions of the same bike model (Diamonback Jr Viper) with hand brakes; which makes me think I should be able to get it done.  Would anyone be willing to give me some advice for a good, easily activated hand break for a child (average sized 5yo, but on the weaker side of the spectrum). Of course, I know that I've only been talking about the handle; but, I would ask for your recommendations for the whole break system.  Planned use is very average; 1st bike, riding around the neighborhood...


texts: What will be the time to close a gap to catch a breakaway?

texts:
how much time  is required to close a gap of 100 metres, in a cycling race,
for different differences in speed of leading and chasing group.

i need a tool to do the math on the fly. so that if one knows what speed the chasing group, one should be able to decide the speed to keep gap constant


texts: Will disk brakes fit on the Apollo Verge

texts: I am wondering will disk brakes fit my bike, the Apollo Verge men's mountain bike?


texts:
I have recently bought a bike with a coaster brake. After over 50 years of cycling with brakes on both handlebars I am finding it difficult. Is it possible to change a coaster brake for a conventional back brake on the handlebar?
Noreen


texts: I have more problems with those stupid things getting stripped than you would believe.  (Just ruined a shoe trying to get a stripped bolt out.)  Anyone know if I can buy just the bolts, rather than the whole cleat?  That way I can put a new one in every time I have to adjust it or it comes loose to, hopefully prevent that from happening.  (I mean the MTB recessed ones)


texts: I have a hardtail mountain bike and recently I broke the 4 year old chain that I had on it. I’m looking for a new one and I’m wondering how many links I need for a 3x9(27 speed) bike.


texts: When Installing chainrings which are pinned, how should I orient the chain drop prevention pin?

texts: I'm setting up a double crankset with a new front chainring which is ramped and pinned.  How should I orient the outer front chainring with respect to the chain drop prevention pin?  Should this line up with the crank arm, opposite the crank arm, etc?


texts: What's difference between 1/2 and 9/16 inch pedals?

texts:
I've this bike MTB hardtail Marin Bolinas Ridge 2012.

And it has generic composite pedals which I want to change.

So while choosing pedals I saw two different choices, 1/2 and 9/16 inch pedals.

I didn't understand what does this sizes mean and apply to what.

Please if someone can explain it to me.

For example: Diamondback Sound Pedal 9/16 and 1/2 model


texts:
I have a city bike with a 3 gear hub on the back.

From some time now, from time to time I hear (I think) the chain clicking/cracking (noise) specially when going up a ramp.

Initially I though it was just missing oil, but after greasing the chain it still does the same noise.

Any tips to solve that?

Extra info: When I hear the noise it seems like the chain jumps in the cog?!?! I am not sure though.


texts: Are bikes with sloping top tubes lighter than bikes with horizontal top tubes?

texts:
For many years bicycles nearly universally had horizontal top tubes, but that has changed: now most bicycles have "compact" geometry, with top tubes that slope downwards from front to back. The question "What is the difference between a horizontal top tube and a sloped one?" generated a great discussion of the pros and cons of "compact" frames versus frames with horizontal top tubes.  I have shamelessly stolen the pictures from that question.
Here's a bike with a horizontal top tube:

And here's a bike with a "compact" frame with a sloping top tube:

Answers to the other question pointed out that manufacturers don't need as many sizes with compact frames compared to frames with horizontal top tubes.  I know that fewer models of a frame is an enormous advantage for manufacturers, distributors, and retailers, because fewer SKUs require less frames to be stocked, which brings costs down and better satisfies customers.  That alone is surely strong motivation for manufacturers to adopt the compact geometry.
But I'm very curious to know if bikes with compact frames are actually lighter.  Answers to the other question disagree on this point, which is why I'm asking a new question.  Definitive proof would be nice, although that is surely hard to find.  If compact frames were actually heavier or less stiff, other things being equal, then I assume that manufacturers would be motivated to tell white lies that bikes with compact frames are lighter and stiffer; manufacturers would surely prefer that people think design changes were intended to benefit riders, rather than being purely for business reasons.
So are bikes with sloping top tubes lighter than bikes with horizontal top tubes?

Conclusion
My goal in asking this question has been to determine why manufacturers really changed to compact geometry from the older geometry with horizontal top tubes.  At least one manufacturer claims that the smaller frame triangles make the frame lighter and stiffer, and makes it easier to fit riders of all sizes.  I think the answer to this question is correct, and that compact frame bikes are not actually substantially lighter than bikes with horizontal top tubes.  I doubt that they're stiffer either, because the frame may be slightly stiffer, but the much longer and therefore bendier seatpost will probably negate that advantage.
Comments to the answer also point out that if the rider wants higher handlebars with a modern threadless stem, then the top tube has to slope for stand-over clearance.  That seems to me to be a mere style issue that could be solved without sloping the top tube, by making the front tube or the steerer a bit longer.  I believe the first picture in the question proves that point: the bicycle has high handlebars, a modern threadless stem, and a horizontal top tube.
That leaves what I believe is the real reason that manufacturers have switched to compact geometry: they don't need to stock nearly as many sizes.  This is an enormous business advantage, because manufacturers, distributors, and retailers don't need to stock as many SKUs.  Hopefully some of the cost savings result in lower prices for consumers.
To sum up, I don't think a bike with compact geometry is a substantially better bike than one with a horizontal top tube, other things being equal, but the bike with compact geometry was slightly cheaper to warehouse and distribute.


texts: Crank power meter incompatible with my bottom bracket

texts:
I have received a 4iiii crank power meter 170mm length that I can't install on my Merida trainer bike because it has square taper bottom bracket.

What would be the cheapest way to have it installed? Are there any adaptors that could be used? New crank set? Or perhaps just sell it and buy Assioma pedals?


texts: What are the most highly attended US & International charity bicycle rides?

texts: Yep, it's all right there in the title. Thx!


texts:
So, I think it'd be cool - for goal setting for example - if I could keep track of my elevation change.

The problem is, the local cyclocomputers I looked at seem to use barometric pressure to determine the change.  This is fine, unless some weather is moving in, which happens not infrequently in the Midwestern United States.

Or do some of them try to use an inclinometer, your speed, and some math you learn in Calculus II to keep track of your change?  That would seem more accurate!

I could try to use a GPS meter, but those things are expensive -  and based on back when I had service to my smart phone, not guaranteed to match my car's odometer for distance even - I've read from some other riders that the distance varies at least slightly from local measurement on a bike as well.

Alternatively, let's say that I ride along a known route.  Is there any good way of plotting that route for elevation change?

Thanks!


texts:
I am in a pinch and need something to crimp onto the end of my brake cable to stop it fraying. There aren't any hardware shop's nearby and its a long way to the nearest bike shop.

Any household object that'll do the job?  Any good stop-gap until I can get a proper part?


texts: Can I ride a triple front chainring with no front deraileruer

texts:
I've managed to strip the threads on my front deraileruer mechanism.

Its off the bike now - can I ride it as-is until I locate a new front mechanism?

The chain does stay on the front chainring where it is placed manually, while stopped. (I'd not do this while pedalling, I like counting all the way to 10 on my fingers!)

If the chain falls off the outside it will get caught on the pedal or right crankarm, and if it falls off the left its on the chain.

...now to find a three-position front derailer with top swing and bottom pull and a braze-on mount.


texts: How should I finish the dynamo cable connection from SON coax to an SP connector?

texts:
Connecting a SON coax cable to an SP (Shutter Precision) Dynamo "lego brick" results in exposed wire. How should I protect this and tidy it up?
Second question: how do I know the wires have been put the correct way round?


texts: Can the tire type and profile significantly affect balance?

texts:
I have been riding the same road bike, a Fuji Espree, for a few years and am very used to it: I used to be able to ride it without hands on the handle bar very easily, take 90º turns in city streets because it is well balanced and responds in a predictable way.

I recently changed the old Strada-K Forte tires to new Continental Ride Tour Extra which have a more square profile, deeper grooves.

Since then the balance of the bike has felt off: As soon as I remove my hands from the handle bar, the bike starts steering to the right and even with my hands on it, turning feels harder.
 I'd like to find new tires that won't have that same effect but am not sure what feature is  causing this? My intuition is that the more square profile is causing, do you think that is the case?


texts: Replacing/Upgrading brakes on ‘80s Peugeot road bike

texts:
I have a Peugeot road bike that I commute on every day. I’m not sure of the exact model, but from some digging around online I believe it is a 1986 or so. It has single pivot side-pull brakes, Shimano as I recall, the kind of generic silver kind that I think most bikes of this era had? Can figure out more specifics if necessary.
The other day while biking home, the pivot bolt (not sure the proper term) of the front brake broke, for some reason I can’t figure out. Sheared off about halfway between the frame and the front end. Calipers went flying, as far as the cable let them anyway.

My question is this: Rather than just getting a replacement bolt, would it be worthwhile to upgrade to a newer brake? The stopping power on them has never been that amazing, though some high performance pads I bought recently have helped a lot. I’m curious if a new brake would offer more stopping power, more structural integrity, or any other advantages?
And if yes, how do I tell whether a brake assembly will fit? I know to measure the reach, but is there anything else that’s changed since the 80s to watch out for? I believe the brakes are unrecessed, for example, are those still manufactured?
Any pointers or recommendations would be appreciated!


texts: Why forward-facing spokes should be "heads in", except on the drive side of the rear wheel?

texts:
Shimano service instructions for hubs show that out of the four sides, three should be "forward-facing spokes are heads-in", and one, the drive side on the rear wheel, the other way around:

What is the reason to specify one way out of the two?


texts: I just got a used mountain bike and on my first trip my rear wheel stopped turning with the cassette. When I pedal it turns the cassette and the gears still change smoothly but it doesnt turn the rear wheel anymore. What can it be? How can I fix this?


texts: Can I put my 2.1" 29er tires on a wheel with 25mm inner diameter?

texts:
So I broke my second front wheel last night when I hit a dip that rose too quickly for my wheel to climb before all my weight went behind it. I'm a big guy (300+ lbs), so my wheels need to be able to take a beating.

Right now I have a 2014 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er with the original fork, tires, and just about everything except the peddles and wheels. I upgraded to Mavic CrossOnes last year after I taco'ed the original front wheel on a hard turn.

I am getting tired of replacing these wheels. It is getting a bit expensive too. So I want to find some really tough rims and from what I read you need to get wheels that have a wider inner rim. The Mavics are 19mm if I remember correctly.

I am thinking about upgrading to a DT Swiss EX 471 29er rim which has a 25mm inner width. But I would like to stick with the ground control tires I already have and really like.

Would my 2.1" Ground Control tire work on this wider rim? I am also considering going tubeless. Also, any recommendations for stronger wheels for my heavy body?


texts: Are the wheels of Thule and Burley two wheeled trailers interchangeable?

texts: I have a Thule Cougar trailer and I would love to put these Burley fat tire wheels on it. Because reasons. The push button hubs on the Burley wheels look the same as the ones used on my Thule, but I can't find a definitive answer on compatibility.


texts: Is it possible/worth it to replace just shifters and derailleurs on an older MTB?

texts:
I have an aluminum frame bicycle (mountain bike, 21-speed) that I purchased some time in the late 90s, it's marked "Skykomish Eureka" (though I can't find any evidence that such a brand and model ever existed), and it is currently outfitted with Shimano 300LX components.

I believe that the rear shifter is giving up the ghost, as sometimes the lower (up) handle will go all the way back without "catching" whatever it's supposed to be catching in order to shift the gears.

I toyed with the idea some time ago of replacing the components with something more upscale (back then, it would've been Shimano EX, I guess...), but I never did it. Now, I'm wondering whether it's worth the effort. I put several hundred dollars into this bicycle back then, so I'm confident it's not merely a BSO, but technology has come quite a way since those days.

Beyond the basic components (hopefully just a couple derailleurs and shifters), would it also be possible to replace the existing short-arm cantilever brakes with the newer long-arm type (which I assume would increase braking power)?


texts: Can I use Kerosene for lubing the cogs and the chain

texts: I recently went to a bike mechanic and he dropped some kerosene on the cog and chain for lubing them. He said that it keeps the dirt off and is quite volatile so will evaporate after sometime leaving some part behind which acts as a good lube. He said that he knows this by experience. Is it good to use kerosene as lubricant?


texts: 4 year old alivio 8 speed rear gears - compatible chain

texts:
I need to replace my chain (for the first time).  My bike is roughly 4 years old using Alivio 8 speed (24 gears) system.  Looking at wiggle they seem to have 3 chains available.

Looking at other questions on here, (for example Are all 9 speed chains compatible with all 9 speed systems?) it would seem that any 8 speed should work.

I would like to ask is there a good reason to go for one or another (they all roughly the same price, within a few pounds).

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=shimano+8%20speed%20chain


texts: How to adjust chainline for 2x10 crank set

texts:
I replaced my 3x8 system with 2x10 system on my Trail bike.
My BB is of 73mm size and as a standard I left one spacer at drive side and none at non-drive side of the chain-ring as of now. But I could see the median of chain rings is not aligned with middle of my cassette and the smaller chain ring is aligned in line with 5th or 6th gear on cassette.

The model is Shimano Deore 2X chain ring.

What would be the best solution?
Adding spacer(1 or two) at non-drive end of the crank and dropping the spacer at drive side?
Or additional spacers to smaller chain ring bolts? Or both?


texts: Can my relative still ride a bike despite having RSI

texts:
My relative has RSI, and encounters wrist pain from fairly minor activities involving use of hands. Is there anything that could be recommended so they could still enjoy cycling despite having RSI?
Thanks a lot.


texts:
My bike has metal fenders that attach to the frame through ~3mm steel arms that are clamped and held in place with a piece of plastic that is screwed to the frame (M5 bolts) - as shown on the photo.

I lost two of those. Does anyone know what can be used as a replacement? What would be a proper English term for this type of a hardware?


texts: Could I be pumping up my tyres the wrong way?

texts:
I now have my first road bike. When I am pumping up the tyres with what seems like a sturdy pump (that you stand on and push with two hands), I can barely get to around 100 psi, even putting my back into it. Is this normal, or am I just weak?

Notes: Valves are obviously presta, which I 'unscrew' and depress to let a little air out before connecting the pump.

Cheers.


texts:
This summer I took apart my old mountain bike to do a rebuild. It is a Raleigh Legend, from Raleigh Canada, circa 1994. When I got to the headset, I looked for a replacement but it seems the combination doesn't exist. It is a 1" threaded headset, but the diameter of the pressed-in part of the cups (and corresponding ID of ends of headtube) is 34mm. It seems headsets for 1" are intended for 30mm cups, and to get 34mm cups the headset is based on 1-1/8". I thought perhaps there would be a way to deal with this with circular shims, and I do recall seeing some online, but as I remember there was still an issue with the crown race ID, so in the end I reused the headset parts but replaced the balls.

So the question is, is the only way to put a new headset on this bike to replace the fork with one that has 1-1/8" steerer tube (which also means new stem and possibly handlebar)?


texts: Is Trek Emonda ALR have thinner or thicker diameter tubing than the carbon model?

texts: I'm wondering if Trek Emonda ALR have thinner or thicker diameter tubing than the carbon model SL/SLR? I might actually get the aluminum one if it's thinner.


texts: How to get a very tight tire back on the rim?

texts:
I needed to change the tube as a consequence of a flat tire and I am in the situation that it's just impossible to put the tire back on the rim.

In almost ten years of experience with road bikes and MTB, I never experienced this.

I tried to use any possible tips, for example from the question How to get the tyre back on to the rim easily?

Every time I try, I end up pinching the tube and it's just impossible to put the tire in. How can I fix this?

I am hypothesizing crazy things, like: dilatation of the rim, need of industrial tools, ...

Edit (to address Neil's question): the troubles are given by a 700x23c tire on a 700C rim of a fixed gear.


texts: Help to choose the right bike multipurpose bike

texts:
I spend about 45 mins everyday commuting (less than 2 miles) to work on a formal dress, shoes, carrying a backpack that consists of a laptop, charger and little more stationery (about 10-12 pounds, I guess), amd probably get groceries way back home (5 pounds of stuff or so)

During weekends, I run errands for about 3-10 miles each day. I own no car, no scooter, no other vehicle. The only mode of transport is by bus, train majorly, perhaps walk and live in a 2nd floor house (but I don't mind carrying it up a 45 degree stairs). I even like to go off road during weekends, but that seems to be asking for more, but it would be great to have a bike that will atleast allow me to reach a hiking spot (slight muddy roads etc).

So with these things on mind, and a budget of $200 (I can double if its worth it, as this is the way its going to be for next 5 years atleast), I've been browsing and looking at different posts here. Particularly its focused on UK products but I live in US, New York; and I feel the bikes specifically are different than those available here, and the pricing. But few other links pointed out me very well, especially Jeol's choice of scooter and bike. Other option is Dahon c7 folding bike

The choice of different options and the upside price really confuses as me, a first timer. I am a software engineer living in New Jersey and travelling to New York by PATH/Subway trains so anyone who is of the same commute, please share your current choice, and the take away from it.

I had a ligament tear a year ago on the right knee, recovering but still finding it tough to walk on formal shoes in particular, and more painful to run errands walking during weekends. Kindly cast your recommendations. I am looking for a few choices so I can narrow it down, but right now I am even unable to oversee what I would need exactly for my purpose, and the choice of geek transportation system is worth the price.

Update after a year of bike usage in New York City and then Southern California

I bought a Dahon Vitesse from Craigslist and used for about 6 months in NYC. It was fun, very useful for errands. The thing I hated is lifting the bike up-and-down on the Subways. The folder though small is not the light-weight stuff.

I had moved to SoCal, did not have a car and badly wanted some bike to get groceries and food (public transport is pretty bad - wait 1 hour for a bus). I again went for a Dahon, this time the D7 model, and a brand new one. Still the bike is useful but for the nature of the city I think I should have gone for a light weight full hybrid bike.

The Dahon folder is great to commute for up to 10 miles for me. Great for plains, not so for elevated areas.


texts: Schwinn AC Plus Performance Carbon Blue spin bike pedal removal

texts:
What tools do I need to remove pedal from crank arm?

I assembled pedals to wrong pedals to the crank arm. Right pedal to left and left pedal to right.

I can't remove it. What size crank puller do I need to remove?


texts: Rim brake on front and disk brake on rear

texts:
Good day guys. I would like to know... I've purchased a old fixed gear bike, and i converted it to a freewheel.  I've managed to install a rim brake on front. I was going to install ine on the back but noticed theres no holes for the caliper to mount on.

Did some research, theres a way to add disk brakes on rear. But im not sure if im going to buy the disk brake adaptor... Need your opinion.. Drill hole on the frame or install disk brakes..

No idea on specs of the bike.. Sorry


texts: I have a 2013 Trek Madone 4.5 with 10-speed Ultegra groupset, current crankset is a Shimano R565 50/36 compact. I want to replace the worn out crankset with a new lighter and up to date crankset. Will the new Shimano 105 FC-R7000 11 speed crankset work on this bike?


texts: I have Felt MTB Nine 60 2017 and I want to change my rear hub but don't know how to look for compatibility. It says 6 bolt QR x 135.


texts: Why does my bike make a noise when I pedal hard?

texts:
When I pedal forcing a little with my right leg, the bike makes a noise that I don't know how to describe. I'll try to do it. It's like:

a short "ting"
a tiny bell
if a small rock hits the down tube

I don't know what is causing this noise, but I think that it could be any of this things:

pedal
crank arm/pedal connection
crankset

I think the material of all these things is alluminium.

I don't feel anything (like a bad shifted chain) when I hear the noise.

It happens when there is movement and when there is NO movement (I use the brake, so the bike doesn'e move, stand using all weight on right pedal, and it makes the noise)

The pedals could be in any position, It is not in a particular position. Just pressing the right pedal.

Has someone else has this "problem"? Any ideas of where this comes from?

Update:
Yesterday I took out the chain and stood on the right pedal, and made the noise. Then is not the chain, nor the transmission system.

I put oil in the pedal axis, but had no luck. Also tried to loose the pedal, but the juncture point is too tight, and I couldn't.

Today I will try to use oil in the bottom bracket.

Update: here is a link to info on the bike http://www.diamondback.com/2012-sorrento maybe it helps to know the model of all the components.


texts:
In this answer, Mσᶎ mentioned a bunny hop.

I agreed, and wrote about How to Bunny Hop.

But it soon became clear that different people have slightly different definitions of a bunny hop. For example, Blam talks about different bunny hops, this answer links to a Danny MacAskill video showing bunny hops, and this BillyNair answer describes similar bunny hops. Most of them are different to what I described - at speed, clipped in, both wheels of the ground.

Where did I get my definition from? Err, that would be 40 (or is it 50?) years ago, before BMX was heard of, when a bunch of us kids would do whatever came to mind on our road bikes. We did the normal stupid stuff kids do: jumps, jousting, riding down stairs, along the top of fences, picking up stuff, yadda yadda, etc, etc. We called getting both wheels off the ground at speed without the help of a ramp, a bunny hop. Everyone else seemed to call it the same thing.

Until now.

I look forward to hearing about the different jumps you do, on what bike, and what they're called.

I'd like to add a definition to our Terminology index.


texts: Protocol for downhill cyclist overtaking a car?

texts:
Last weekend, I was driving (yes in a car, something I rarely do) down a fairly steep and very curvy mountain road (thus with very poor sight lines/visibility ahead) when I noticed a cyclist in my rearview mirror.  He looked "pro" and in control, but was close enough to me that I was worried that if I braked to slow down for one of these curves, I was going to have cyclist splattered all over the rear of the car.

After longer than either one of us would have liked (two minutes or so), I finally got ahead of him enough to slow down a lot and pull far to the right on a stretch with enough visibility for him to pass me on the left (since he was clearly wanting to go much faster than I was comfortable with on the curves) and I rolled down my window to wave "OK" to him.

As he passed he yelled at me (yelling's understandable in this cases, only have a second) about cars needing to pull aside for cyclists.

I felt terrible if I'd endangered him or caused him to damage his brakes or whatever to slow his speed more than he liked.  And I don't even care what the law says if I could do something better to accommodate fast downhill cyclists better in the future, I'm just trying to figure out what I should have done differently.

I think the cyclist wanted me to pull over as soon as I noticed him.  In retrospect I guess I could have done that safely by putting on my emergency blinkers to indicate to him I'd seen him and was planning to slow down.  In the moment, I was worried about how close he was, how variable my speed was around the tight curves, how narrow the road was, and how scant little I could see ahead of me (i.e. I wasn't going to pull left to let him pass me on my right, since I could kill him if I needed to come back right quickly due to oncoming car.)

Anyone have strong feelings about things I should/shouldn't do?

I'm not worried about my rights - I'm far more often the one on the bicycle - so just help me figure out what I should do better next time to accommodate him if I were in similar situation.


texts: Bike lock for a Mountain bike with easily removable wheels

texts:
I have a Trek 3500 that I need to lock up when I ride city trails, but I have been nervous as both of the wheels are incredibly easy to remove (flip a switch, rotate a lever a few times and they detach in seconds.)

I purchased a cable lock assuming it would be sufficient, but the more I read here about how easy cable locks are to remove I'm getting a little nervous as bike theft is a pretty big problem in my area.

Is a combination of a cable and a U-Lock the best? I purchased a decent (but not high end) cable lock, and I reviewed most of the suggestions for locks found in Best bike lock and the other threads. However the cost of a combination of these locks is around $120+.

In the end, its not the money (as having to buy a new bike obviously wouldn't be good), but is it worth it to invest so much into a combination of lock systems?


texts: How do I identify the correct battery for my electric bicycle?

texts:
I would like to replace my heavy battery to a lighter one. My current battery lasts for 5 days, if I could replace it with something that can only last for a day, I'm fine with that but lighter. Is this possible?

My ebike specs are:
Motor type, 450w brushless
Rated voltage, 48v/20ah


texts: How many degrees does the stem of a Canyon integrated cockpit rise?

texts: I am plotting a Canyon Ultimate bike on BikeCad, but I can't find how many degrees the stem rises. The stem is part of the Canyon H36 integrated cockpit. In general, manifacturers of integrated-stem cockpits don't seem to specify the degrees. Shall I assume a standard number for it?


texts: Balance of leg muscle usage while riding out of the saddle

texts:
Minor changes in cleat and saddle position can greatly alter the amount of glute, hamstrings, quads and calf muscle that are used when cycling while seated. But is the same true of positions when riding out of the saddle?
While climbing I tend to be on the hoods and fairly upright, letting my weight assist in pushing the pedals round. Whereas while sprinting (of sorts) I'll be lower, on the drops, back much more horizontal, and it feels like my bum is further back and nearer the saddle, although this may be due to the flatness of the road; on a climb the back wheel and saddle will naturally be lower than normal in relation to the front wheel.
I tend to like using my glutes more (because they're massive) and my calves less, so what kind of climbing and sprinting position would achieve this? Or does it not really matter because being out of the saddle is a dynamic position in relation to the bike, as opposed to a static seated position?


texts: Help identifying (potential) 80's Aerospace Contour Raleigh frame

texts:
I recently acquired a mismatched Raleigh and was wondering if anyone could shed some light on what frame it is specifically? I'm guessing it is 80's based on the fact that it has an '85 stamped 3 speed Sturmey Archer hub and (I believe) an 80's Raleigh badge. Also pretty sure the Union pedals are 80's too? I think it's an Aerospace Contour frame, since it has the oval shaped seat/downtube and forks (you can see how the round cable guides don't fit on the frame properly). I'm just confused as there is no derailleur hanger and I was convinced all the Aerospace frames had front/rear derailleur? There is also no sign of any braze-on cable guides whatsoever. The paint isn't original; it looks like a DIY job but there is no sign of an original colour underneath so there's no telling from that. It also has a really old Brooks saddle which could be original but I'm not sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

Alex.


texts: What size are the screws used for water bottle mounts etc?

texts:
There's one size of bolt that's used all over modern bikes: water bottle mounts and the braze-ons for racks leap to mind. Whenever I need a few, I take one to the hardware store and sift through the boxes of bolts until I find one that matches. I foolishly never write the size down.

What size are they? I'm only concerned with the width and the threads, not the heads or the length.


texts: Occassionally Dropping Chain On Downshifts

texts:
Very occasionally my chain will come of the small chainwheel on a downshift. It is not at all predictable, except that it always happens when the I'm doing an unloaded shift in preparation for a climb. I don't think it has ever happened under load.

The limit screws seem to be set correctly. Most (>99%) of the time I can shift onto the small chain ring without any problem – both under load and without a load.

I'd appreciate suggestions for what to check or ideas about what could be causing this.


texts: Wheel Building - Should key spoke be inside or outside flange?

texts:
I’m working on my first wheel build and reading a lot of articles about spoke patterns. Some articles say the key spoke (drive-side, to the right of the valve) should be on the outside of the flange, but others say inside of the flange.

Is there a recommended/better flange side for the key spoke? And then what is the recommended flange side for the spoke on the other side of the valve?

In my current build my key spoke is on the outside of the flange. The parallel spoke on the other side of the valve is inside the left flange.

Update

Here’s my finished wheels showing the lacing pattern. I followed Shimano’s recommended pattern but would love to know if it looks in/correct to anyone. In both pics, the wheels are drive-side up, with the valve at the top-center (in the T of WTB). All spokes on drive-side go to holes on drive-side of rim, same for non-drive side.


texts: Help! My Campagnolo Record 11 shifters get stuck on my bar tape

texts:
I have on my rig Campag Athena 11 and Record 11 shifters. Recently, I've noticed the rear gear changing lever, are getting stuck on my bar tape, so when I want to upshift my cassette, I have to flick-off the lever from the bar tape quickly and then push the lever to change gears.
Has anyone had this issue?
Any tips on how to get back to normal shifting? Maybe the angle of movement from rest to shifting can be adjusted back?
Any tips appreciated.
Thanks

UPDATE

Sorry I think a picture speaks a 1000 words... this happens when I squeeze the brake lever - not when I am upshifting the rear gears.


texts: Converting Surly new hubs from 130mm to 120mm

texts: Can I convert 130mm Surly New hub from 130mm to 120mm by simply replacing with a 120mm axle? I have a 130mm hub that I'm running on a sscx bike, and want to use the wheel for a track bike with 120mm rear. I believe the cog/freewheel position is the same between 130 and 120 singlespeed/fixed hubs (so that chainline is not affected), the only difference is OLD between the two axles. Is that correct?


texts:
I have a rockrider 300 which has tyre measurements as 26*2.0 and tube measurements as 26*1.75-26*2.12. According to the catalog they are semi-slick tyres. I want them to be even slicker.

I have looked up a btwin tyre online which measures 700*25 which is compatible with tubes measuring 700*18 - 700*25 and 700cc or 28 wheels. I am not sure what any of this means and if its a good for my bike in terms of measurements.

Can someone please give me a range of measurements of tyres and tubes that I can buy which can fit my rim.


texts:
I came into possession of an old Mongoose 3.5 that I need to buy a chain for. Unfortunately, I know very little about how to properly purchase the correct chain for a bike I can find very little information for. No bike shops around here are available to service it.
The bike has a rear cartridge with 7 speeds and a pedal cartridge with 3 speeds.
I am also not sure if I need to replace anything else. The rust on the derailleurs looks like it can be scraped off and I can clean the rest of the bike.


texts: Fork slider caps worn out. Replacements?

texts: I have this fork and the plastic slider sleeves have worn out. Can I purchase replacements. The service manual says those are among the "wear-and-tear" parts.


texts: Using PTFE spray on rear derailleur springs

texts:
Have noticed that the rear derailleur springs and pulleys are picking up lots of road gunk.  I use a wax for the chain and as this breaks off I can see it getting stuck on the pulleys.

So after cleaning out the chain and rear derailleur with citrus degreaser can you use PTFE spray, as in WD40 400ml High Performance PTFE Lubricant on the rear derailleur spring.  PTFE is basically teflon, but does it then over coat the spring and restrict movement ?


texts: What are the pros and cons of Double Butted vs Straight Spokes when building a wheel?

texts:
Straight spokes will have the same diameter through the whole length, double butted spoked are thinner in the middle than at the ends. Here's my current understanding of the benefits of each:
Double Butted Spokes

Lighter than Straight Spokes
More elasticity in the wheel (less rigid / will flex some before breaking)
Spokes will bow out less at the crossings
Easier to bend/lace
When overtightened or stressed too hard, the spoke is more likely to snap than the rim eyelets or the hub's flange

Straight Spokes

Stronger than butted spokes
Less elasticity in the wheel (more rigid / may break before flexing)
More available at bike shops
Cheaper

What are other reasons to use one over the other, or more pros/cons that may influence one's decision to use one over the other when hand building wheels? ('Straight spokes are easier to machine lace' may be true, for example, but doesn't help me decide which to order)


texts:
I have a pair of recumbents and I have difficulties locking them safely when I have to park them in the street for long period of time.  The conventional wisdom is to use a U-lock to attach the frame to a strong fixed point. With a recumbent this is very difficult because:

the width of the seat will move the frame away from fixed points,
the frame itself sometimes has no closed loop like the diamond frame of upright bicycles.

On my Nazca Pioneer there is a small closed loop on the rear stays so I manage to secure it with a foldable lock. This is weaker than a U-lock but it is the best I came up with. But on my Challenge Seiran SL, which has no secure point, I am still looking for a safe way to lock it.

How do you manage this?

Nazca Pioneer:

Challenge Seiran SL:


texts:
I'm currently rebuilding an old steel frame. After measuring it I was sure it'd take a 27.2mm seat post (see picture) so that's what i bought. Sadly it doesn't fit (despite some "encouragement" with a mallet). So I'm now in the position of needing to buy another.

Anyone got any suggestions on what size I should go for. You can see from the picture how it's measuring and I don't want to go wrong again.....


texts: CDF touring build with mtb crankset and road shifters

texts:
I want to build a genesis croix de fer bike. The usage of this bike will be touring, with rear and front panniers, for an approximately 6 month autonomy travel.
I am starting from zero, so there are no constraints of preexisting parts in my inventory.
My goal is to have road shifters, with a double crankset. Since I will carry around some weight, I'd rather have a small crankset; a deore 38 / 24 seems ideal.
Now I am kind of lost on how to achieve this.
What cassette should I get ? A deore too or can any 10 or 11 shimano cassette fit ?
Which derailleurs do i need to get; do i need the mtb rear and front ? Or can I mix both ?
And lastly, which shifters would be compatible with all this ?
I know that's a lot of questions, but I'm kind of lost on all the possibilities.
Thank you !


texts: Buying brake levers, how do I find the correct ones for my bike?

texts:
I took a hard spill the other day on my mountain bike and snapped my left hand brake lever in to pieces.
The ones that snapped are stock alloy rubbish that came with a Specialized Hardrock 2010 Disc Brake model.   They are standard Bowden Cable brake wires with the little barrel shaped bit at the end that fits to the brakes.  (Do they have a name?)

I'm having some trouble purchasing levers and there doesn't seem to be much information on it online or much information on the products I'm finding.

To the point

What I need is Bowden Cable compatible brake levers but I have no idea how to search for them.  Sometimes descriptions will mention that they are for pneumatic, V-brakes, caliper or canti brakes but I've never seen anything saying that they would be compatible with my bike on any site.

What am I doing wrong? Or what should I be searching for here?


texts:
My rear wheel has a Shimano nexus 8 internal gear shift.

i noticed some wobbling on the axis recently. that means there is a little bit of play when i try to twist the axis sideways respective to the wheel itself.

is there a way to fix this?

edit: there is a nut on one side of the axis. if i tighten that one, it fixes the wobble, but it also makes the whole wheel harder too move. if it turn it while in air, it stop quite quickly by itself


texts: Are there advantages of dedicated bike computer instead of smartphone apps?

texts:
I do a lot of road biking. I have a basic Catseye onboard computer for my speed and odometer. But I also use my iPhone to track and record my biking. I've tried a variety of iPhone apps, the best ones being iMapMyRide and Cyclemeter.

As I get more serious with biking though, I'm looking around at the dedicated biking computers like the Garmin Edge. I'm trying to figure out if they are worth buying or not. Rewind the clock back about 5 years and I'd say definitely yes. But these days, with really awesome GPS-capable smartphone apps, I'm not so sure...

Take for example iMapMyRide. You can buy a cheap ANT+ adapter for your iPhone and then use any ANT+ device with the software. Speedometer, cadence, heartbeat sensor, etc...

Also with these apps it does optional Live Tracking so that when you are out on your ride, your spouse (or anyone you want) can look at a webpage and see your progress on a map. You can do this with the Garmin Edge apparently but I think Garmin charges $25 a year or something for that service.

So if I already have an iPhone/Android and I already take it on rides anyways (for emergencies), then is it worth it at all to get a dedicated biking computer? Just about the only advantage I can think of is that the biking computers are smaller (less weight).

Are there any outstanding advantages to dedicated computers that I'm unaware of?


texts: Is conserving energy something to do on a day-to-day basis, or over the week?

texts:
I'm about a month into using my bicycle to commute to work, and one thing I've definitely gotten better at is pacing myself to conserve energy, both for the rest of the commute to work, and for the commute back.

What I'm still unsure of, however, is whether or not I should pace myself on one day to conserve energy for the next. Assuming I ate the same thing, and got the same amount of sleep each day, would I have relatively the same amount of energy each of those days despite a decent back and forth commute?

Today was the first day of my commuting week, and I had a lot more energy (granted, I have been drinking chocolate milk per the advice of bicycles.SE, which may be having a physical or psychological affect AND that my body should be adjusting to the increased activity), so I ended up biking a bit faster than I normally do. Am I going to pay for this tomorrow?

edit: the commute is 15 miles.


texts: I live in Australia. Im new to the whole mnt bike scene. I use my mnt bike  for excercise (doctors orders) I have the proper bike tool kit, but am still learning. My question: I ride a Giant boulder 1 2015 mnt bike. My crank shaft is Crankset Suntour NEX, 28-38-48T. I want to up grade the pedals, so what size pedals would fit  my crank arm? Thanks.


texts: Does anyone know what brand and model is the bicycle in photo?

texts: This photograph is from early to mid 1960. Any ideas as to what this bicycle is? This has been bothering me for decades. Can't find anything like it anywhere.


texts: Rear bike stand: 2 points of contact vs 1

texts:
When choosing a rear bike stand, does it make any difference that it clamps to 1 or 2 tubes of the chassis?

My bike can happen to be parked with rear paniers.


texts: Getting back on the bike after bad fall, how do I get over my fear?

texts: On Nov of last year I had a bad stupid crash that broke 2 of my front teeth and left one loose. I was descending from a very rocky steep hill and my wheel got locked, threw me off my bike straight to a rock. My bf said it was bc I wasn't going fast enough to keep momentum. Anyways, make long story short I am terrified. I've been road biking with clipless pedals to build confidence but I just can't seem to have it when it comes to mtn biking,any advice on how to get rid of this fear and nervous feeling?


texts:
Can anyone help identify this old hottie? Kinda looks like 80's Peugeot per the Shimano 105 parts. The head badge looks like it could have been in the shape of a shield though. Seat tube has a sticker that reads BULLSHOT (grease). I doubt the handlebars and seat are original. Any thoughts? Thanks all!
(Handlebars will be wrapped)
Serial G0583


texts: Chain too wide for gap between chainring and chainring guard

texts:
I have a Seek 0 2013 and recently the chain has been stretched so far that it needed to be replaced. On the Giant site it says that this is sold with a KMC Z51 1/2" * 3/32" chain.

I've since gone to two different shops who have both sold what appears to be the same sized chain (1/2" * 1/8") which isn't fitting, as it's too wide and brushes against the chainring guard. (This was dumb on my behalf and I have no defense for this.)

Is it possible to still use these chains (perhaps by adjusting / removing the chainring guard) without any complications in the future or are these chains simply the wrong size and I need to go return them and get the right chain?


texts: Can I approximate how much air pressure is lost from disconnecting the hose?

texts:
I have a floor pump intended for mainly rather low pressure tires.

It lets out quite a bit of air from the hose when disconnected.

Can I calculate (approximately) how much air pressure is lost by measuring the hose length and diameter?

I need to get it up to 100psi, so should I pump it to 110psi, 120psi, 130psi?


texts:
Is there compatibility between R8000 crankset and R9100 chainring?

I would like to mount a 54 ring on an R8000 DI2 crankset.


texts:
I've heard a lot of folks complaining about freewheel hubs getting bent axles.

I have a rigid BSO with a solid rear axle that I occasionally pound on local trails.

I've never gotten a bent axle. That said, I only weigh 145 so maybe that's not saying much.

Anyhow, I have a friend who doesn't weigh much more than me (maybe 160) who has gotten TWO bent axles. He never rides off-road, and his bike is nicer than mine.

He has a QR rear axle.

Is this a legitimate reason to avoid QR's on freewheel hubs? Has anyone bent a solid axle?


texts:
Picture the scene... It's just been raining and you are getting ready to commute home after work, you cycle out on to the tarmac, the scent of fresh rain on hot tarmac fills your nostrils, you notice a pedestrian push the button on the traffic lights up ahead, the lights turn red and you gently squeeze your brake to stop before the line but at the same time your brakes let out a horrific squeal frightening the pedestrians and ruining your street cred.

What's the deal? why do my disc brakes squeal when its wet, and is it possible to prevent this? Is it more common for disc brakes to squeal and why?

I am currently riding a Scott Aspect 30.


texts: Why is it easier to balance a non-moving bike standing up than sitting down?

texts:
When I arrive at a traffic light that is red I usually just stop the bike, stand up and balance it for a minute or two before going on, without ever putting a foot on the ground. Learning to balance a bike like that was easy, I estimate it took less than hour before I could stand indefinitely (well, the static load is quite high so I probably won't stand more than 5-10 minutes due to exhaustion). With some effort and luck I can also release one hand.

BUT, now I have tried to learn to balance the bike sitting down on the saddle and that is basically impossible. Why is that so much harder? Any hints on how to do it?


texts:
I'm wondering about the variations in jockey wheels / derailleur pulleys and what differences they make; There's a lot of conflicting and confusing information out there, so I'm after some general opinion on them.

Common sizes appear to be 10T, 11T, 13T. I can see that the larger the pulley, the lower its rotational speed and chain bend and thus the less friction it will cause, at the expense of some weight and space. Some stock pulleys are apparently over 30g, and some light alloy ones are under 10g, which is a reasonable range for the weight weenies to fuss over!

Larger jockey wheels will require a longer chain, which I've seen described as also increasing gear capacity; is it effectively like having a longer cage? If so, is it reasonable to use a 13T bottom pulley to gain capacity?

The upper pulley is clearly going to affect shifting most, as it feeds the chain onto the cassette, so a larger pulley will move the chain closer to the cassette - is this likely to reduce capacity?

I've seen jockey wheels sold in pairs specifically labelled as upper and lower, and often one of them will have some degree of float or play, rather than being rigid on its axle.Is this meant to make it more forgiving of slightly misaligned gears? Is it necessary if you have well-aligned gears?

Alloy pulleys seem to be more highly regarded than plastic. Is it also the case that plastic wheels may have more flex than alloy ones, providing float-like behaviour in the wheel rather than the bearing?

Bearings will usually be smoother and lower friction than bushings, and ceramic bearings are better than steel - but how big is this difference?


texts: What percentage of bike vs. car accidents at night could be avoided by good side visibility?

texts: I'm trying to assess how important side visibility is at night on a bike.


texts: Is this an unsuitable cassette lockring tool?

texts:
I can't get my lockring tool to fit my cassette's lockring. The tool is about 1mm i diameter bigger than the lockring, although they have "hills and valleys" that line up.

Here's the lockring:

Here's the lockring tool:

Here's the tool in the lockring before I try to engage the lockring with the tool:

And here's the tool nestling on top of the lockring, but it doesn't fit in at all:

The lockring says "LB SHIMANO" on it. The tool says it's compatible with Shimano Hyperglide. Do I have the wrong tool for the job?


texts: Need help identifying this Specialized bike

texts: Looking to purchase this bike, but wanted to verify what kind of specialized bike it is. Thanks in advance!


texts:
One of the main reasons I eventually give up my bicycle commute in winter is that keeping my bike -mainly the drivetrain- clean despite all the rain/dirt/salt/hail/snow becomes too much of a time suck.

The weather means I feel I have to clean my chain at least every two or three days. But days are short and I have no shed. So on weekdays that means working in the dark under a streetlight in the cold. I know the cleaning is worth it, but after a few sessions with freezing fingers, eyes straining to find my tools I usually give up.

What I am looking for is a minimal routine that will keep my chain clean enough despite the weather.

[edited to add:]
I'm currently trying the following, but I'm not sure how well it will work in the long run:

At the end of each leg of my commute I use my waterbottle to spray the worst of the dirt and (hopefully) all the salt of my drivetrain.
In the morning before I leave I check my chain and, if I feel there is not enough oil on it, I add a drop to each chain roller, turn the crank a few times, and wipe of the excess.

No cleaning (other than the waterbottle) no resting to let the oil seep in.

[edit2, to answer some questions:]

I have full fenders on my bike.
I currently use this lube: http://www.cyclon.nl/index.php?m1=2&m2=9&m3=11&m4=19&lang_id=4 which is supposed to be a wet lube.

[Edit3: what I've done:]

I have switched to an even wetter lube. (this one: http://www.cyclon.nl/?m1=2&m2=9&m3=11&m4=22&lang_id=1)
I got myself a chain cleaner (this one from BBB: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4671)
I found a non-automatic car wash. (they are rare here, the first two google maps hits were no longer in business) There I can hose my bike down to remove the worst of the dirt/salt.
I have accepted that I will probably buy a new chain come spring.

I think I'll ride to the car wash every weekend or every other weekend depending on conditions. This takes me, including cleaning my chain and re-oiling everything after the hosedown, about 35 minutes including the 5k one-way ride to the car-wash. Pretty good!


texts: Using a new but potentially dirty olive and barb when shortening hydraulic brake hosing

texts:
I wish to shorten the hose on a hydraulic brake system (model is TRP hylex)

i have an unused TRP olive and barb, however unfortunately they have been knocking about in a tray with an old chain and general grime

They aren’t visibly dirty but  have been in contact with chain grime and i would like to know if they should be cleaned in a particular way before being installed.

As it happens, without thinking i ran them under tap water so they are now also potentially contaminated with water.

I’ve searched and can’t find any relevant info.

Thanks


texts: how can you index a 9 speed 11-46 tooth cassette if the gears arent equally apart

texts:
I am looking at purchasing a 9 speed 11-46 cassette but on inspection the bigger cogs are not equally apart from the smaller ones.  How would you go on with indexing (I use a thumb shifter 9 speed) if the gaps aren't equal as I'm guessing my shifter pulls and pushes the same amount of cable per click.

EG Cassette Range: 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-37-46T these arent equally spaced apart in particular the biggest ring is alot further away from 2nd ring 9 tooth difference than the others that are 2-4 tooth difference.


texts: Road bike for a 10 day trip in the Pyrenees and French rivera and other questions

texts:
I am planning a 10 day trip covering roughly between 500 and 600 kilometers, starting in the Spanish Pyrenees and finishing in Nice.

What kind of bike do you recommend me for such a trip? Obviously I need something with gears since I am going to do a bit of cycling in the mountains. I prefer not to get a mountain bike because my idea is to keep the bike and use it in London for commuting.

My budget is in the £500 - £700 range and I would probably go for second hand since that way I can get something better. At this price range I cannot afford any fancy carbon frame ones. However, would I ideally want a carbon frame bike? I know they are much lighter but I obviously need to carry some stuff in saddles so I am not sure I want a super light one, do I?

Also, I'd be great if you give me any advice on saddles as I will need to get these as well.

Finally, is averaging 50-60 kilometers a day too much for 2 fit guys in their late 20s and early 30s? I am  more or less a seasoned rider although no expert and certainly not trained.

Cheers!


texts: 25 degree rise stem vs 6 degree rise stem with taller head tube - how is handling affected?

texts:
All,

I’m shopping for a new road bike with endurance geometry (more upright position and shorter top tube), 9mm drop saddle-to-bars.  I’ve had a Guru fit done by a professional fitter. The main problem is I’m 5’5” with 29” inseam, and one arm is 2” shorter than the other. So it’s been hard to find a small frame with a short enough reach and tall enough head tube (enough stack) to put the bars close enough without compromising handling.

Most of the 48cm or 49cm frames I’m looking at have a top tube that is too long and/or the head tube is not tall enough. Many 50cm frames don’t have enough standover clearance. The fitter has spec’d a 70mm 6 degree stem as a minimum and doesn’t want to go shorter.

I thought it might work to use a 70mm stem with a 25 or 30 degree rise, to effectively reduce the reach and get the handlebars high enough. It’s sort of like making the head tube taller and the top tube shorter, but with a riser stem. However, my fitter has advised against this, saying that using a riser stem with that much rise may adversely affect handling and weight distribution.

My question is, how is using a stem with 25 degree rise different from having a frame with a taller head tube (more stack) using a 6 degree rise? Is there a handling difference, and why?

Thanks


texts: Did I pay too much for repairs on road bike? Should I have bought new?

texts:
I originally paid $250 for a Schwinn road bike on Amazon 5 years ago. It's been a really solid bike, even though I know it's just a mass produced brand.

I didn't know any better and did no repairs or maintenance for 5 years and it made it through 3 triathlons just fine.

6 months ago I started commuting with it and so wanted to add on a rear rack and swap out the tires. Total upgrade cost was about $200.

Just this month I wanted to get a full tune up - $124. New chain, all new cables, new grip tape, new pedals, new brake pads, etc adds up to $320 total.

So I've spend $550 in repairs and upgrades on what was originally a $250 bike. Did I make a huge mistake and should I have just bought a new commuter or road bike from a decent brand for $700, or is it just fine to spend that much on repairs?


texts:
I've just bought a Fox Float X 2014 for my 2015 Giant Trance. It fits my Trance perfect but I may be upgrading to a 2015 Giant Reign. I was thinking would my shock fit onto a reign? The size of mine is 200x57 (7.825" x 2.25"). Does anyone know the size of a reign?
Cheers


texts: Can I replace a Shimano Deore SL-M590 3speed Left shifter with an Acera SL-M310?

texts:
Total n00b question here, I did have a look for similar questions & answers first!
I have a 2009 or 2010 Specialized Rockhopper SL with all Deore parts. The left shifter is broken. I can pay £23 for an exact replacement or £9 for the Acera. Both new and supplied with cable. Is the Acera compatible? Will it work? will I notice much difference in smoothness of changing? is the Acera very cheap and mostly plastic parts? also, does anyone have a decent link to a step by step guide of how to carry this job out, feed the cable through and make sure the chain, shifter indicators and the FD-M590 derailleur all end up in the right place?

Many thanks


texts: Do I need to replace cranks after newly installed pedals torqued out along with some threads in my crank?

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I must have crossed threads like an idiot when I installed pedals for my new SPD cleats. After several miles of riding (~100-200 m), I suddenly got this inexplicable rolly, bumpy motion in my foot. The pedal looked skewed out of the crank arm. I removed it with my pedal wrench. Out came several rings of crank thread material. The pedal is fine.

The previous pedals that I removed were aluminum platforms and needed a dousing of degreaser and hot water to come unstuck.

I could probably screw the pedal back in with the remaining thread in the crank arm. Is this downright stupid to do?

EDIT: Some pictures and specs for further review

The pedal is a standard SPD Shimano road. I don't have the specific model number, I lost the box.

The crankset is an Omega FS6. It came prepackaged with my bike which was a rebuild. The former aluminum pedals were locked in there like a nightmare. The bike mechanic used thread sealant. Once I wrenched them off, I tried my best to clear out any offending sealant that remained in the threads.


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I have repeatedly pushed the valve stem back into the stem and try after try am failing at thumping the valve stem out to where I can grab it.

I have pushed it through with a piece of bailing wire; each time blowing out all excess slime then will line it back up, thump it 2,3,4 times and it will not come back out. How, in every video I watch, is it only taking two thumps for the valve stem to come back out?


texts: Spokes both too long and too short on same side of wheel

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I'm attempting my second wheel build. My first build went pretty smoothly, but this time I've messed something up badly.

I calculated that both drive and non drive side could take 300mm spokes ( slightly too long on one side, too short the other but both within < 1mm).

It looks like I mismeasured/ miscalculated something as I have spokes that are both too long and too short.

Some start to tighten with threads still showing, others protrude from the hole and would only tighten with spoke sticking past the nipple.

What I don't understand is how I have spokes on the same side that are both too short and too long.

I'd expect to be consistently over or under length on one side.

How can this happen?

When I rechecking my calcs I'm not sure if I should expect higher or lower numbers.


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I have an older Trek Mtn bike with Shimano components.  Just today the pedal started spinning without turning the wheel.  I can pedal forward and backwards and occasionally it will start turning the wheel.  The bike has thousands of miles on it.  I am guessing the freewheel is worn out.  Is this something that can be replaced easily.  I have a tool to remove the cassette and have taken that off but am not sure how to proceed.

Thanks in advance, Paul