texts: For road riding, are mountain bikes safer than road bikes?

texts: My son (age 15) and I have ridden a couple of thousand miles in the past few years--road riding. We like mountain climbs and descents. He was on a comfort bike until a month ago, when he acquired his big brother's road bike--an older Cannondale Saeco with an aluminum frame. The other day, standing on the pedals and sprinting hard at about 25 mph, he lost control, veered right, and hit a concrete storm-sewer inlet at the side of the road. He crunched the front wheel, bent the frame, and dinged himself up pretty good--thankfully no head injury or internal injuries. This whole time I've been riding a mountain bike with 1.6-inch road tires. For at time I also had a road bike (a nice, older Klein Aura V). To me the road bike felt a little twitchy in its handling, and, with safety in view (as well as my wife's peace of mind), I decided to stick with the mountain bike, which felt a little more stable and of course has stronger wheels and wider tires. Now we need to decide what kind of bike to get for my son. I'm not finding a great deal of discussion on the internet about relative safety of road-style bikes vs. mountain bikes for road riding. I'm sure there's a great deal of variety of handling characteristics within each category, depending on wheelbase, frame stiffness and geometry, wheel diameter and weight, etc. Sure would appreciate any helpful discussion of the safety issues here, or pointers to web sites where these things are knowledgeably discussed.


texts: What brand is this (maybe Eastern) frame? Is it good for a first bike?

texts: What brand is this frame? I think it may be Eastern but I'm not sure. Also is it good for a first bike?


texts: Reinstall a Shimano nexus 7 wheel after puncture?

texts:
I took my back wheel off to fix the tube. When trying to put back together the "gear cassette" I was struggling, it just wouldn’t fit.
I eventually checked a youtube video that explains how the yellow dots should be aligned. By doing that it worked however the length of the gear wire is now messed up and when putting the gear on 4 the yellow dots DO NOT ALIGN. They did before I dismantled the gear cassette.
I think the gears work but it doesn’t seem right. I cannot test the bike because the tube is leaking again and I need to fix it again, nightmare! I worry I have messed up the gear cable and I wouldn’t know how to put it back how it was before. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!


texts: I have a freewheel and I keep bending the axle, however the rim, spokes and tire are all fine, does anyone think it would be possible to unscrew the spokes, buy a new hub that has a freehub, install that with maybe new spokes and my previous rim? (And also buy a cassette) because I don't see the point in buying a whole new wheel just for the hub.


texts: I would like to cycle to my school but there are some questions that I can't answer like "Make of bicycle" , "Type of bike" and "Frame of bike" I would like it if someone could tell me.


texts:
Related (but more general): What steps should I follow to patch a
  tube?

I have done this more than a hundred times, but am still not sure what are the correct steps.

Here they show to put glue on the tube, peel the aluminum cover of the patch, patch the tube, wait for the glue to set, remove the transparent cover, ready.

I have had success with not waiting at all - remove tube, patch, put back in, let the pressure push the patch against the tire.

I have had success patching without removing the transparent peel.

I have had also tried putting glue only on the tube or both on the tube and the patch. Waiting a couple of minutes after applying the glue and before sticking the patch or not waiting.

So, what are the precise steps to apply a patch kit, from the moment the tire is in one's hands and the hole is located, to the moment the pumping up?


texts: What tool do I need for this bolt that holds the crank arm on this stationary bike?

texts:
I'm amateur and got this stationary bike. The crank arm, I think that's what it's called, fell off. I can put the bolt back (the one inside the red circle) and turn manually but can't tighten it. There was a cap on top of it. What tool do it need here?
It's completely round and not hex shape


texts: How to make old bike's seatpost slide smoothly when it needs adjustment again?

texts: I've several old bikes with a common problem, the seatpost is a bit too much hard to slide just to adjust the height (sometimes the frame scratch the seatpost), which might be ok on a road bike, but not so much on MTB or folding bike, when you need to put the bike in a car for example. I thought about sanding both the seatpost and the inside of the bike, but is that a good idea? Of course I grease the seatpost to avoid galvanic corrosion and let it became stuck over time, but it slighty improve, doesn't solve the problem.


texts: Installing solid tires without locking pins?

texts: Finally I decided to buy solid tires. At the moment I placed the order I did not know that they are installed with locking pins. Is it required to have locking pins or I can just pull the tire onto a rim?


texts: Are disc brake rotors interchangeable between brands?

texts:
I have Tektro HD-R310 brakes, with center lock rims, using the new and only center lock rotors from Tektro TR160-35

Well after 2 months of driving in winter, i already notice some rust on the rotors (and i do clean my bike often)

That never happend on my other bike which i rarely clean with shimano slx + rotors.

So my question would be, can i use better quality shimano rotors with my tektro brake? Only problem i can think of would be the pads type (resin), which needs to be compatible. I'm still on the original pads but will switch to "SwissStop Disc34 RS" after they are worn out.


texts:
I have a 2019 Specialized Allez Sprint Frame. I need a replacement fork, but specialized does not stock them. Are there any aftermarket forks that will fit this frame? If so, do they require a new headset?

Here is a photo of the OEM fork illustrating the integrated race and gap below the race, which I believe will make it challenging to find an aftermarket fork that will fit.


texts:
I'm searching for new tires for my MTB, but I'm lost with the many options available, even within a single brand (like Maxxis). Under "Mountain" category alone, Maxxis lists 22 diferent tires, every one with many variants by size, compound and bead, while the only visible difference for me is the tread pattern.

I understand that big knobs are better for mud, and small/none ones are better for hard surfaces, but how you translate the tread pattern (beside knob size) into handling characteristics? Can you look at a tread and says what it's good for? Is "climbs and brakes with authority thanks to the opposing parallelogram center tread design" (Maxxis Advantage) just marketing speak or it's for real?


texts: What's the deal with the axle of my wheels? (or, why is one gear so much smaller than the other?)

texts:
I want to put a smaller set of gears on my bike, but looking at the wheel I see that I already have the smallest gear for my axle. Comparing it to another wheel, I found that the other wheel has a much smaller axle.

Thicker axle, 14 tooth gear:

http://chrismsmith.net/IMG_2231.JPG

Thinner axle, 11 tooth gear:

http://chrismsmith.net/IMG_2230.JPG

I want to know the names for these two different axle types, or how they are described at all, and why one would be chosen over the other.


texts: My back wheel isn't connected to the gears

texts:
I have an old bike it says Via Montega on the body if that helps. I was riding it earlier when the pedaling stopped resulting in forward motion.

I thought the chain might have come loose but it is definitely where it is supposed to be. The chain is attached and will shift gears but the back wheel doesn't turn. The wheel does spin freely if pushed. It seems like the gears and the wheel aren't connected but there is some sort of plastic guard between the gears and wheel so I can't see the problem.

Is this something I can fix myself with limited to know bike repair knowledge or do I need to take it in?

If so how expensive is it likely to be?


texts: compatibilty of 10 speed dura ace bar end shifters and xt 10speed rear derailleur

texts:
on my new surly cross check i have installed the following:

10 gear Dura Ace Barendshifters (7900),
26-36-48 crankset,
xt front derailleur,
10 gear xt shadow rear derailleur
11-32 casette.

while shifting the front derailleur works fine, the rear derailleur does not shift all 10 gears. i have read about the incompatibility issues of road and mtb components and have come across the following hack:

This is a pretty popular hack. If you’re using 10-speed triple road shifters (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra), you can hook them up to a 9-speed MTB derailluer, a 10-speed MTB cassette and a 10-speed chain. As the 9-speed MTB derailleur pulls in the same way as a 10-speed road, you are essentially just increasing the derailleur cage length to increase the overall capacity. Keep in mind the 10-speed shifters will ONLY work with 10-speed road triple front derailleurs.
Crankset: 50-39-30t
Cassette: 11-36t
Setup Capacity: 45t
Smallest Gear w/ 700×38 Tyres: 23 Gear Inches

thankyou cyclingabout.com

would this work with my setup (when i exchange the rear derailleur)? the dura ace shifters are not mentioned and i have different crankset and cassette setup.


texts: Can the Shimano front derailleur prevent a gear of my bike from working?

texts:
I recently bought a used rigid mountain bike, I'm very happy with it but I realized yesterday that I couldn't access the smallest chainring.

This one has a total of 3 front gears, but only numbers 2 and 3 are accessible.

I tried to adjust the Shimano but nothing works, I can't use chainring 1. (I am a beginner not an expert)

Can the problem come from the Shimano? Should I look at something else?

Note: bike reference: B'TWIN Rockrider 5.0

Photo from priceminister.com


texts: How do I purchase a drop bar bike that will be converted to flat bar?

texts:
I really like the Kona Sutra from both a price and specification point of view. As I have only ridden flat bar bicycles I am not sure if I can used to the drop bar. In case I cannot, I would like to convert the bicycle to Velo Orange's Crazy Bar. I know for sure, I will like that.

What do I have to know when I purchase a Kona Sutra? I know that drop bar bike frames are shorter and that I need be careful about the brake and shifter pull ratios (i.e. MTB vs. Road bike components). The second is not a problem in case of the Sutra, but I am a little bit afraid of purchasing a bigger size bike just because of a potential conversion.

Is there anything else you need to watch for?


texts: My LBS has told me they're unable to order Framesaver due to difficulties shipping aerosol canisters across the border. Are there any reputable retailers (either online or in the Greater Toronto Area) who've dealt with the hassle and have Framesaver available for sale within Canada?


texts: I can get a giant anthem x4 26er for a decent price but was wondering if it would be suited for single tracks, trails and steepish rocky dirt track descends? Also, is the anthem a good climber?


texts: Why are post ~'80s bike finishes so "dull"?

texts:
It seems that (with some notable exceptions) bikes from about the '80s and earlier seem to have more pleasing finishes than later bikes-- is there a verifiable reason for this, either economically or technologically?

There are many older bikes in price ranges low to high which have very nice finishes, whereas it seems all modern bikes more or less look "cheap", gaudy or just dull: E.g. it seems that nearly all the bikes on Trek's site are bright red or have neon accents if they are not some shade of black/white/pewter/silver. Now, apparently some other people do find Treks to be ugly but some also say they make some pretty ones too, so a pure "pretty vs. ugly" comparison isn't so useful.

Case study: Bianchi

In order to try to make the contrast as clear as possible, I tried to remove as many confounding factors as possible. Unfortunately, there are very few bike models made now which have truly been in production for decades without being significantly changed. However, there is one manufacturer which is famous for its finishes --- Bianchi:

Old (1935 Bianchi Corsa)

On this old road bike, Bianchi's famous "celeste" color has a pastel-ish hue and a metallic luster.

New (2015 Bianchi Specialissima)

Here, on a bike made nearly a century after the one above, the "celeste" seems to be slightly darker and also seems to have a soft-matte finish (however, the lighting in the photo makes it hard to determine). Now, of course, the exact shade of "celeste" has changed over the years. However, the luster of the finish is also noticeably different --- whether it was a deliberate change or not.

Conclusion

Despite the difficulties in finding absolute traits to contrast, what I have noticed is that many modern bikes have either the soft matte/satin finish seen above or a blindingly-high-gloss finish, whereas I've never seen these finishes on older bikes (not that all matte and/or glossy bikes are necessarily ugly). Likewise, very few modern bikes have the sort of "bright, light metallic" luster seen in a lot of older bikes: The closest I've seen is probably that of the Genesis Croix de Fer 10, but its finish still seems somehow "shallower" than those of older bikes. So, the question is: What changed between now and then?


texts: Mountain bike shorts has an attached inner pair of shorts w/ padded liner...should I detach the inner shorts from the shorts?

texts:
I bought a pair of mountain bike shorts. It comes with a ‘separate’ pair of inner shorts that are like Lycra and have a padded liner sewn to it. However, these inner shorts are attached to the outer shorts on the left and right. They are attached via something that looks like thin shoelaces.

I feel really silly asking this question, but I can’t figure out why these inner shorts are attached to the outer shorts this way.  Is it just so that they can keep the two pieces together on the clothing rack?

I just want to cut them bc it’s not easy to put on two pairs of shorts at the same time given the way they are currently attached.


texts: Should I cover my bicycle overnight while bikepacking?

texts:
I'm wondering if all the moisture from being out overnight will damage my bicycle. I'm thinking 30+ days of being in use, with maybe a couple of those days being light rain.
If the water will damage my bicycle, are there lightweight and compact covers that could be suggested? Or, would just wiping down the bike with a towel in the morning work to prevent damage?


texts: Why are brake levers still bent in form to accomodate more than one finger?

texts:
I thought of it for a while now. Our brake levers look like this:

Why aren't they designed more like this?

Is there a purpose for the extra space? Is two-finger braking still essential in hydraulic brakes?

EDIT: Due to the misunderstandings occurring, here's the alternative lever shape I'm talking about.


texts:
Could someone provide a comparison between having a bike with a chain, with a shaft drive and with a belt drive like the Gates Carbon Drive?

It could be good to know who fares better in terms of low maintenance, durability, and efficiency.


texts: Replacement brake pads for Tektro HD-R210

texts:
What model pads would be a replacement for Tektro HD-R210 brakes?

I haven't seen the model mentioned in Tektro's documentation
https://www.tektro.com/upload/Product/F_20170613131999DtkdK8.PDF

The bike is a 2019 Giant Fastroad SL-1
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/fastroad-sl-1-2019

Around the front calliper the only marking is F140 FM1.1

I don't see any marking on the rotor for resin only.

The front brakes have been a bit noisy & bumpy under medium braking, and the pads look thinner at the side closer to the rear of the bicycle. It looks a bit like there's wear on the outer of the rotor arms. I guess this is related to pad wear?

I'll swap the left and right pads over until I get a new set, hopefully that will put a bit more pad where it's needed.


texts:
Update

As mentioned, The speed wobbles were symptomatic of a harmonic interaction. The wobbles have not returned after adjusting the weight distribution on the bike.

Recently encountered speed wobbles going down a bridge at 40 mph.  I am interested in understanding what triggers the wobbling.

My first thought was that this may have occurred from unevenly tightened spokes. Any information regarding this frightening phenomenon is appreciated.


texts: Can someone help me to identify this bike model

texts:
It's a "Focus" road bike, from 2013 or 2014 (I think).
Can someone tell me the exact model ?
Thanks a lot !


texts: Central axis motor or wheel motor for conversion to electric bike?

texts:
I'm planning to convert my "mechanical" bike into an E-bike for riding long distances to work, and I would like to buy only the motor kit since I already have the bike. I can see that I have two options for motor kits: central axis motor and wheel motor (see pictures)

 vs

Intuitively, I think the wheel motor is more practical and better since I can keep the gears from the original bike. It's also easier to install/remove. The central axis motor involves more mechanical work and the front gears would vanish, but it is a bit more hidden, so to say.

I can find the same engine power for both options, but I can't figure out which one should I get and I would like to hear your opinion about this. Which one should I go for and why? What are the drawbacks of one and the advantages of the other?

Thank you!


texts: Is it cheaper to mass produce a carbon frame than an aluminium frame?

texts: I've heard this comment but I have not found any information about it. Is it true?


texts: How can I troubleshoot battery issues on an electric bike?

texts:
I've got an electric bike with a GWA Easi-A36 battery (10.8Ah, 33.8V). The bike has a GWA electric motor.

When I turn the motor on (on the handlebar "computer"), the battery indicator tells me the battery is empty. However, when I test the battery using a voltmeter it says 37.3V.

I could buy a new battery, but that's 570 USD - and possibly only to find out that the battery works fine.

As far as I can see, there are three "main" components involved :

The battery
The motor
The handlebar "computer"

How can I best troubleshoot a battery and / or motor on an electric bike to find out what's wrong?


texts: I cycle less than 10kms a day but I'm a little on the heavier side as well. What would you recommend, Aluminium, steel or Carbon fiber frame (body)?


texts: How important is tire tread on a mtb used for commuting?

texts: I started back riding a bike around town last year, although I don't have a $600 mtb or road bike. I'm finding out a lot of interesting things that I took for granted when I first starting riding my old 10-speed back in the 70's, like tires and gearing. I was 15 years old when I bought my first 10-speed, comparing now to then, the bike has come a long, long way. I'm relearning everything I thought I knew about a bike and finding out that I don't like road bikes per say, reason being that I like off-road riding once in awhile and a skinny tire can't do that for me.


texts: Everyone loves polished aluminum, but you typically have to pay a good 30% more for it vs. any other finish. Since polishing is a simple process requiring widely-available tools, I thought I could probably get away with taking care of it myself on a some dull-finish or anodized rims. My concern is that I would remove enough material with the polishing wheel to affect the structural integrity of the rim walls, especially on newer rims that are built with very tight strength-weight tolerances.


texts: At what temperature do you say its too cold to ride a bike?

texts: It's been a great winter here in DC, its mostly high 30's but the last few days it's low 20's and in at night a little windy?


texts: What kind of tires I can use with tubeless rims?

texts: I bought a Trek FX 7.4 last summer, and now, as the conditions are getting more and more slippery, I'm thinking of getting a bit more winter-y tires. The rims are tubeless, but I'm a bit confused of what kind of tires I can buy. Are all tires compatible with these tubeless rims? Do I need to fit an inner tube with some tires, or do all tires work "tubeless"?


texts: Looking for a commuter bike, What should I look for?

texts: I have to travel medium distances on country highways with high speeds and narrow shoulders and need a sturdy inexpensive bicycle that works well off-road and on. I also plan to attach a large basket. A friend of mine recommended Schwinn but they look difficult to maintain and fairly expensive. Amazon makes you surf based on brands and the ad copy doesn't give any good information. Can someone give some recommendations please?


texts:
I recently did a long ride and didn't move my hands enough. The pinky and ring finger on my right hand went numb and the webbing between thumb and index burned and ached.
Two weeks later I still have some of these issues. There is a ton out there about how to prevent ulnar neuropathy. But how long does it typically last?


texts: How do I tune up the shifters/derailleurs on my mountain bike?

texts:
I have a Diamondback mountain bike with Shimano shifters that I bought used last summer, and over time the shifting has gone out of whack. For example, on the front wheel I can't shift into the easiest gear, and in some gears it sounds like the chain is rubbing on one of the derailleurs when I'm riding. Also when I'm in the hardest two gears on the back wheel, the chain slips sometimes.

I've tried adjusting the screws on the derailleurs and got the rubbing noise to go away, but it returned not long afterward.

I ride my bike to work but wouldn't call myself a cyclist. How would you explain to a child, step-by-step, how to tune up the bike's shifting? How do I know if a part needs to be replaced, and are there any parts in the shifting system that I should expect to have to replace after riding the bike 1000 miles?


texts: SPD vs. SPD-SL: Which unclips most easily?

texts:
I got my first real road bike a few weeks ago, and am now hearing from my local bike club fellows that I should get some clipless pedals.

A quick Internet search reveals that the main types are SPD and SPD-SL, and that shoes made for one type cannot be used with the other. That's not really a problem, since prices seem to be about the same for the whole pedals + shoes package.

Being new to this, I am concerned about not being able to unclip in time to avoid falling over, and for this reason if there is a definite difference in ease of unclipping, I'm heavily in favor of whichever one is easier.

So in the experience of those of you who have used both types, which is easiest to unclip?


texts: Is my new-to-me used suspension fork a MY2000 Manitou Mars Elite Hyperlite?

texts:
I just got a new-to-me used fork from circa 2000. It's supposed to be a 26" 1 1/8th threadless Manitou Mars Elite fork with 80mm travel.  I'd like to source spare parts and repair/service instructions -- do I have it correctly identified as a MY2000 Manitou Mars Elite Hyperlite? I've uploaded photos, in particular one with a date code stamp on the "bridge" that shows "00" surrounded by 12 wedges, 11 of which have raised dots. This suggests to me a manufacturing date of 11/2000, which may or may not be MY2000.  Serial number is 300169715, but I've been unable to find a decoder that gives date of manufacture or model year from that, and Hayes(Manitou) hasn't yet returned my call.
Q: Is this a MY2000 Manitou Mars Elite 26" 1 1/8 threadless 80mm fork? MY2001? Some other variety of Mars fork?


texts: Would a person standing on the top tube damage a carbon fibre road bike?

texts:
I was riding my aluminium bike and I met some people who had been trapped in a locked park, so I helped them escape by holding the bike against the fence and letting them stand on the top tube to climb out.

If I had had a carbon fibre bike instead how much risk would there have been of serious damage to the bike? I understand that carbon components are engineered to be strong in certain directions and relatively weak in others.


texts: Major pitting in bearing cups; what can I replace?

texts:
I bought a "mystery meat" Peugeot bicycle, it turned out to be 1991 Peugeot "Milano" (couldn't find it in catalogs): 7-speed rear cassette, Shimano 200GS groupset. I disassembled and cleaned everything, replaced the chain and the cassette. I noticed two problems:

The bearing cones and bearing cups have significant pitting on the non-drive side
If I spin the wheel freely while cassette is not spinning, the cassette wobbles ever so slightly, the edge of the largest gear moves maybe 0.5mm back laterally back and forth

For now I've put it all back together, but now that everything has been cleaned and lubed, I can actually hear some noises from rear bearings when riding on a smooth surface; it's synchronous with wheel rotation and I can only hear it when I'm actually on the bicycle.
My question is: what would be the optimal set of components to replace? Should I try to find bearing cups and replace them together with cones? If it's not worth the hassle, what parameters should I take into account when looking for a replacement wheel?
Rear hub is Shimano FH-HG20:

Here's a PDF: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FH-HG20-1108A.pdf
Bearing cup:


texts:
I have Giant Defy 3 2012 and I want change handlebar from drop down to straight.
I wonder if I can use Shimano Alivio M430 3-9 shifters with my front and rear Sora derailler. Thanks for advice


texts: Changing Campy index downtube shifters to 'only' do friction shifting

texts:
How do you change Campy down tube C-Record indexed shifters to be friction shifters? I don't like index shifters as they limit your options with the cassette you can use.

Mine are Campagnolo Veloce.


texts: Lacing wheels Hope Wheels one a enduro synthesis alloy rims

texts: Could anyone tell me the spokes I would need for a Crank Brothers enduro synthesis alloy rim for a 27.5 and a pro 4 disc hope hub 148 mm boost rear wheel 3 cross. I have built a few wheels and pro wheel builder said I would need 273.3(I rounded up to 274) for the left and 272 for the right but every other spoke was way to long so I tried 272 for both sides and every other spoke was way to long as well. I have checked my 3 cross lacing pattern multiple times and from what I can tell I am not doing anything wrong so I figure it has to be the spoke size.So if anyone could potentially point me in the right direction id appreciate it. ( i am using 15mm spoke nipples)


texts: Should I dispose of my cheap bike or is it worthy to keep?

texts: I was given a bike that cost £150.  How can I tell if this bike is rubbish or not?


texts:
I'm sure this is a very common question, but I need to remove the pedals and crank from a CCM mountain bike frame - however, the pedals have no obvious bolts - the pedal arms simply bend 90 degrees into the crank. Im sure this bike was cheap enough that it wasn't designed to be disassembled, but at this point I'm more curious than anything else.

Is this a special tool required?

Crankset


texts: Can anyone help me out. Just pick this dyno up and have no idea what kind it is.


texts: 1991 (I think) Trek 850 MTB bottom bracket replacement. Maybe similar to 830?

texts: I have a Trek 850 MTB that needs the bottom bracket replaced. Is there a standard size to order? If I take off the bike will there be a number that will help me order a new one or do I measure somehow? Thank you.


texts: What kind of tires should I buy for an e-bike, commuting on maintained off-road?

texts:
I need to buy a new front tire for my new e-bike. Let me give you a few of the conditions I'll be riding in, and I'd like your advice.

First of all, this bike is primarily going to be used to commute to work. I live near an airport, and my work is on the other side of the airport. The consequence of that is that I have to ride 5 miles along a 55 mph road. It doesn't have a bike lane, but there is a large path of gravel right next to the road, which I will most likely use extensively.

I should also say that I would like an affordable tire, but I am willing to invest more in a tire that will last me for longer.

If you'd like to see my bike, see this question. It's pretty obvious that the front tire is quite flat, and in fact, it just needs to be replaced...

EDIT: Here's a few pictures of the current tires.


texts: Convert 9 speeed Campagnolo Ergo Levers to 10 Speed

texts: A friend gave me a carbon set of campag record 9 speed ergos.  I would love to convert the 9 to 10 Speed and I understand it is possible.  I have read that some dealers will do it but the cost is almost same as new set of levers. Has anybody done it and was it difficult?


texts:
I am in my late 40s and yes I have a sore lower back. Most likely from too many bicycle rides on incorrectly sized / fitted bicycles.
I am thinking of getting a recumbent for my daily commute to work. Are they generally good for your back, or is it worse as you're bending your neck forward more to see ahead?
I've never ridden one.
Thanks


texts: How to replace old style cotter-pin bottom bracket with a modern one?

texts:
I have an old 1950's English bicycle with cotter-pin style bottom bracket like this:

I find the cotter pins fail fairly regularly and are hard to replace correctly. I was wondering if it's possible to replace them with a modern bottom bracket without having to do welding/major work?


texts: trek road bike puncture and then gears stop working advice needed?

texts:
I wonder if any one can help me I have a trek road bike, I have had it several years and it has always worked really well gears changing well and never had a puncture.

A couple of weeks ago I went out for a ride and back wheel went bang and had a puncture. I took back wheel off and replaced inner tube and put back wheel back on.

I started cycling again and every thing seemed fine then I heard a strange snapping sound and when I tried to change gears right shifter would not work so could not change gears. I had to ride home with one gear.

When I got home I checked bike and found out gear cable had snapped.

Today I replace broken gear cable and other gear cable. I decided to change brake cables as well.

When I had finished every thing was working well all gears were changing smoothly, brakes working fine.

I decided to take it out for a ride to test. Every thing was going well then I heard a bang again another puncture. I took off back wheel replaced inner tube, pumped up and put wheel back on. I Started riding and every thing seemed fine gears changing fine.
2 minutes later right gear shifter stops working again.

I have checked over bike and gear cable has not snapped it is fine. gear shifter just does not seem to be working the levers for going up and down dont click when moved they just move around and do nothing.

Have I done some thing wrong when I changed the gear cable. Left shifter is working fine. and as I said after I changed gear cables both shifters were working fine and gears were changing smoothly until puncture.

Why do my gears suddenly keep stopping working each time I get a puncture.
and any advice on what I can do to try and fix.

Im beginning to think im jinxed my last bike a carrera kept getting continual punctures every bike ride some times two or 3 times in one ride. I tried replacing inner tubes and tyres. but it made no difference so gave up in the end and bought the trek which has been great until now.

Sorry if this is long any advice would be much appreciated

thanks in advance


texts: Help me identify this specific Giant XTC

texts:
I bought this bike a couple of years ago and I'm looking to sell it. I don't know what year it was, nor the frame size, but it's in really good shape. I pulled the serial number from the bottom of the frame but it hasn't helped me look up anything online.
Any extra information would be really appreciated
The guy I bought it from mentioned it being originally from Europe, possibly Germany if I remember right.
It's labeled XTC 1.5 performance series, but everything I looked up online shows either 1 or 2 as the options


texts: Color conventions for side (wheel) reflectors (yellow and white)

texts:
Spoke reflectors, as far as I know, often come in two colors: yellow and white.

Is there a convention as to which one should go on the back wheel and which one should go on the front wheel?

For instance, on cars, front lights are suppose to emit white or amber light, and rear lights are supposed to emit red light. Is there some convention for bikes as well, like "Front = White, Rear = Yellow"?

I am aware of this post, but I don't think there is any legal obligation as to which goes where. So, is this just a convention, and if yes, which one?


texts:
I've been riding CitiBike for a couple years to ride to work in NYC (7mi commute) and am looking to purchase my own bike.  Are there any standard suggestions on what to look for in a commuter bike?

Note that I love CitiBike.  I love the convenience of fenders, chain guards, easy gears that never come off, lights built in, etc.  The only thing I don't like is it is big, bulky, and heavy.  Would like something that is lighter and faster that has the convenient attributes of CitiBike.


texts: Is it a good idea to lift the front wheel to go through small bumps?

texts:
I was wondering if it is a good idea, when riding fast on a road bike, to lift the front wheel when I find a 5-10cm bump.

Does it damage the rear wheel more? Is it good or bad for the front wheel?

I feel like I don't feel so much the bump if I do that but what matters is if I'm damaging the wheels.


texts:
I am currently looking at 2 hard tail MTBs, namely the Grand Canyon MTBs from Canyon, especially the

Grand Canyon 7.0 and...
Grand Canyon 8.0

and the difference seems to be 200 EUR which translates into the following major component differences:

SRAM SX Eagle vs Shimano Deore XT rear derailer
RockShox Judy Silver vs FOX 34 Rhythm fork
Rapid Rob wire-bead clincher vs Nobby Nic folding clincher tires (tubeless ready)

Now I have seen some posts on MTB forums and on Youtube that seem suggest the SRAM Eagle SX derailleurs fall apart very often and are very flimsy and unreliable, because they appear to be made out of plastic. The hate towards SX Eagle seems to be very strong on the forums. This got me worried, so I cancelled my order on the 7.0.
Does anyone have experience with the new SRAM SX Eagle 12 speeds?
Is it really that bad?


texts: What's the pedal spindle size for the NordicTrack GX 4.7 R exercise bike?

texts:
I am trying to find out pedal spindle size for the NordicTrack GX 4.7 R exercise bike. Is it 1/2 or 9/16?

I want to replace the pedals with larger more substantial ones with a strap.

Thank you!


texts:
I have old old 90's Cannondale that has been sitting in a spare bedroom for the last three years just collecting dust (has not been ridden in those three years). I bought a bike trainer over the weekend and so I wanted to throw that bike on the trainer and use it for indoor use.

I set it all up and when I got on the bike and started shifting the bike shifting in the back to the largest cog (so lowest gear) but now I am unable to make it shift at all to a higher gear. Bike was shifting completely fine the last time it was ridden but now not at all. It also doesn't feel like there is any tension in the actual shifter when I push on it.  Does this type of problem sound familiar to anyone?

For what it's worth, the shifters are Shimano RSX.


texts:
I have a specialized roubaix of 10 years old. With shimano 105 group. I’m having trouble with my rear derailleur. I want to adjust it so i start on the smallest gear at the back and change gear one by one until i’m on the biggest one. For that part everything works fine. But when i go in the opposite side, it’s all wrong like if the cable or something wasnt coming back like it is suppose to. My cables a new and free in the tubes so it’s probably not that. Does somebody have an idea?
Thank you


texts: Can a 7 speed torpedo cable index a modern day 7 speed freewheel?

texts: I have an old cable from a 7 speed Torpedo internal hub and am wondering if it will properly index a modern day 7 speed freewheel or if it is way off.  Is there an easy way to check this?  Just measure how far the cable moves in it vs. how far the cable moves is my twist (grip) shifter 7 speed?


texts:
Recently I bought a clip-on aero bar for my road bike and has been practicing aero position for triathlon. I read that moving the saddle forward could mimic the triathlon bike geometry.

However, I cannot move the saddle all the way forward to reach the 'max' line indicated on the saddle rail. The saddle would be slanted if I move it further forward.

How can I move the saddle further forward? Thanks.


texts:
Anyone know what model this bike is?

I am trying to replace the front wheel of my fg/ss converted vintage Peugeot road bike. I've measured the spacing at 98mm, but because I don't know the correct year, I'm not sure if that is the correct spacing. Sheldon Brown lists 96mm as a common front fork spacing for an older french bike. The rear wheel had been replaced with a Wheel Master LP18 700 track wheel with 120 spacing. Also, most internet wheel listings don't even list the spacing.

Will this wheel fit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Masters-Wheel-Front-700-622X14-Wei-Lp18-Black-Msw-36-Aly-Qr-Black-Dti2-0Sl-/184149905030?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0


texts:
I've seen it mentioned that larger wheels are easier to turn - is that actually the case?  How would that work?

The way I see it, larger wheels will have more angular momentum, meaning they'll take more energy to start turning, but while spinning, will be easier to keep at the same speed?


texts: Does an adapter for a flat mount caliper to post mount fork exist?

texts:
I have a CAAD12 disc which I'd like to fit SRAM Force 22 hydraulic to. I've been a bit enthusiastic buying things without really researching all the pitfalls of the different bits and bobs that go into disc brakes and compatibility thereof.

So, it turns out that the CAAD12 fork is post mount, but my calipers are flat mount. Is there an adapter to fit a flat mount caliper to a post mount fork?


texts: In India both the Btwin In'ride 100 and 300 trainers are of the same price I.e 7k. Can anyone tell me the difference between the two. From the description on the website I can't say that I can find any difference apart from the fact that 300 offers 6 resistances and 100 offers 7 resistances.which one is better to buy wrt better efficiency,  less noise and durability.


texts: Can heavy tires handle anything that the trail can offer?

texts:
I got a Slash and it came with Bontager XR4 Ellite tires.

The same evening at the park I had a puncture. Turned out the offender was a thorn to the sidewall (I rode through some cut off and now dry bushes and tree stems).

I intend to ride the bike over snow, ice, mud, sharp rocks, large round rocks, road, but mostly trails, that can sometimes have sharp stones or thorny plants. And wound NOT want to patch both my tubes every time I go through some strawberries.

So I am considering moving to very heavy tires, e.g. Scwalbe's Big Betty or Wicked Will. Would this mitigate my concerns?

Alternatively, the current tires and rims are marketed as "Tubeless ready". Maybe it would be a better bet to move to tubeless setup? But then, why didn't they sell the bike in TL configuration, if that would be better?

I do not ride at competitions. My goals are to be able to ride to the top of the mountain without lagging behind my friends, and then enjoy the descent.


texts: I am 182 cm tall. Is a road bike with a frame height 54cm good for me?

texts:
I have an option to buy a road bike that has the height of the frame 54 cm : https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/sport-sportgeraete/top-rennrad-ktm-strada-nur-9-3-kg-alles-shimano-ultegra-132209154/ . I am 182 cm tall. When I went to a shop and asked the "expert" about the bike, he suggested me to buy the bike with a frame of 56 cm.

Is there a big difference between the two sizes? Should I buy the bike, or it doesn't fit to my height?


texts: Will using a pannier rack mounting kit damage a carbon frame Axiom vs Tubus

texts:
I am hoping to buy one of these in the next few weeks:

Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert Disc Di2 2014 Road Bike

But I will be using it for commuting and need some luggage so I need to fit a pannier rack (I'm going to ignore all the shouts of horror about using this bike for commuting or putting a rack on it).

Initially I thought that this was not possible and I was looking at getting a custom Titanium frame made with the same components. I have now found a couple of options though.

There is the Tubus set of pannier racks. I have used a Tubus rack before on a bike with no eyelets and it seemed to work very well. If I use the Tubus Clamp Set For Seat Stay Mounting and the Tubus Adapter Set For QR-Axle Mounting I think that'll work won't it? I am unsure if the rack will clear the disc brakes though...

There is also the Axiom set of racks as shown in the video. They specifically make a rack for road bikes with disc brakes which sounds very promising. I can't see how the rack will attach to the frame at the top with no eyelets and no caliper brakes. I could use the Tubus Clamp set though (which I have on my current bike)

So, Will mounting this to my bike damage the carbon frame?
Any recommendations about which rack / mounting system I should go for?

Thanks


texts: Can I just fit a cassette with more gears with the same derailleur?

texts: I've got a Boardman Road Sport which I use for commuting and doing reasonable length rides during the week etc. I have Shimano Claris as my rear derailleur and so is some of my groupset. I would like to upgrade my cassette to an either 9 or 10 speed to give me a greater variety of gears. To do this do I need to change my rear derailleur from 8 speed to Shimano 105 or something similar? Or can I just change my cassette? Do I also need to change my shifters as well?


texts: I recently bought a Merida HT matts sub 60, and I like it but sadly it's way to big for me, I purchrase it more for the components since it was really cheap. I'm 165cm, and probably need 16inch frame, and I kinda want to swap the frame (sadly the best part of the bike) with a more suitable one. I don't want to spend more than 100€, and I found some aluminum frame on Aliexpress for my budget, on ebay I found only quite expensive ones, and often on large size or with some cracks and other problems. I need a frame with disk brake mounts so it's hard to find a cheap bike just for the frame, for this reason I want to buy just the frame. Do you have any feedback about those cheap unknown chinese frame? Any other suggestion is appreciated.


texts:
Currently I have a Tektro Auriga brake system. I don't like the Auriga brakes at all, so I decided to replace them with Deore XT BR-M800.

At front I have 180mm disk and between the caliper and fork is an adapter. I'm curious about the rear caliper. Will the new caliper fit without an adapter with a 160mm disk?
Here are pictures of my current brake system.(couldn't upload directly due to image sizes)


texts: Is 650b a better platform than 26" or 29"?

texts:
I have seen more and more reference to the 650b (27.5") mtb wheel size. Whilst I don't see any need for a new standard, does anyone know of any benefit to have a 27.5" wheel over a 26" or 29"?

While I understand there are currently 650b specific frames and wheels I haven't seen forks yet.

Also can someone please make a 650b tag, I don't have the rep yet. Thanks.


texts:
So I just got Peugeot bike frame that I'd like to make into my regular commuter.

I had a KHS triathalon single speed for a few years that a road day and night from city to city, putting miles on it. It was a beauty, fast smooth and durable and unfortunately it's no longer with me. I miss those days.

This would be my first build with all parts replaced except handle bars maybe saddle and could use all the advice and knowledge from experienced riders. I don't know anything about bike brands or parts. So any words of knowledge on best brands, parts, what websites to buy from, anything would be helpful. And FYI I am on a budget so if you know any good deals out there I'd appreciate it. Thank you!


texts: Is there a cycling equivalent to Naismith's rule

texts:
After doing some training rides on courses without bigger ups and downs where I didn't make significant elevation gains, a recent ride was in more rough terrain. Of course, the relief changes the average speed one can achieve and I was wondering, if there are some rules of thumb to estimate the influence of the relief.

From hiking I know there is Naismith's rule which allows to calculate the time needed for a certain route based on distance and elevation. I am aware of the fact that with cycling the rule would be less general and require more calibration depending on

mountain vs. road bike
different surfaces
greater difference between uphill and downhill speeds.

On outdoors.SX.com also someone presented a slightly different approach that translates different parameters (elevation gain, trail conditions etc.) into distance travelled, which could be another useful approach here.

So my question is, is there some rule of thumb or a set of rules of thumb for cycling as well?


texts: How do to tension and true a rear wheel with a warped rim?

texts:
So, after doing extensive research and youtubing on bicycle truing and wheel building, I decided to completely de-tension a rear wheel on one of my old bicycles and try bringing it back up to tension/round/true/dish.

But, I ended up taco-ing my rim pretty badly in my truing process and rounding two of the nipples.  I guess my spokes were too tight or something.  I was just turning, turning, and then boom, taco'ed.  Now I know, I guess.

So, I detensioned all the spokes again to try and start over, except this time, I noticed my rim was physically deformed.  it wobbles and is out of lateral true pretty badly with no spoke tension on it.  I tried bending the rim back into shape, and got it slightly better, but I think it's as good as it's going to get.

I can't really follow any of the youtube or online tutorials now, since my relative tension between spokes is going to be very disparate because of the rim, and all those tutorials assume (rightly so), you have a good rim to begin with.

I was hoping someone could list a methodical way of bringing such a rim back into tension/true/round/dish-ness.

Thanks everyone.


texts:
I have some Tektro RL520 and have had them for a WHILE. The hoods split at some point, I forgot exactly when. I want to replace my bartape and I want to either:

Buy new hood replacements
Find an alternative to using traditional hoods

I used electrical tape to compensate for the initial tear in the hood and wrapped the tear with it until it wasn't noticeable and tearing into my hand.

I can either buy the hoods here for $14.99 or buy new brake levers at the amazon link above for $25.

Or take off the hoods? and ride like that? Or wrap the brake levers in bar tape?


texts: What's the best way to lift a bike onto a storage hook?

texts:
At work we have hooks attached to the wall so that we can hang our bikes from the front wheel. They're effectively the same as these:

I see heaps of people struggling to lift their bikes onto the rack, getting dirty and greasy because they're having to kind of 'hug' the bike to lift it up high enough.

I've got a neat trick for lifting my bike on to the rack which I'll post shortly, but I wanted to hear from the community if anyone has any tips or tricks.


texts: Do I need a medium or large cage rear derailleur?

texts:
My SRAM x5 rear derailleur got caught on something and broke. I went to order a new one and learned there are different cage sizes. I don't know which size cage I currently have. While trying to figure out which one I need I figured out that I need to know my Total Drivetrain Capacity. All of the sources that I have come across say

Maximum Chainring Difference + Maximum Cassette Cog Difference = Total Drivetrain Capacity

Not sure what the formula is when you only have 1 chainring. The answer to this question appears to just be

Maximum Cassette Cog Difference = Total Drivetrain Capacity

Is that correct? So in my case it would be 34 - 11 = 23? So a medium cage would be plenty? The sources I have come  across say if in doubt, get a large. I would rather have a smaller cage though to hopefully not have it catch on something again.

My current setup
Crankset: alloy arm with 34T single ring
Shifters: SRAM x4 9 speed
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X5, 9 Speed
Rear Cogs: SRAM PG950 Cassette, 9 Speed, 11-34T

SRAM x5 medium cage specs
Largest Cog: 34
Chain Wrap Capacity: 37

SRAM x5 long cage specs
Largest Cog: 36
Chain Wrap Capacity: 45


texts: Upgrade old road bike to 7-speed rear derailleur?

texts:
Just took my old 1983 12 speed out of mothballs. put on 94 miles this month very hilly here. My question is:

can I upgrade my freewheel with Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel (14-34T Mega 7 Speed)?

Would I also have to upgrade my chain, derrailer, and front gears?  currently have Shimano on it.  It was not a fancy bike no quick release on rear (just to give you an idea of cost of bike).

I can do my own maintenance but I would need detailed part info not sure what goes with what. any help would be appreciated.


texts: What is a sign that my chain needs to be lubricated again?

texts: I just cleaned my gears, derailleurs, and chain. Lubricated the chain with Teflon dry lube. When will I need to re-lubricate again? Will I hear the chain make sounds? Do I do a visual inspection?


texts:
So I have a wheelset that I really like, only problem is the first time I rode the wheels a nipple came off the spoke when I launched off a speed bump going downhill.  For a long time it was silent (the nipple must have been stuck in some stan's or something) but recently its come loose and rattles all over the place when braking.  I am pretty sure this is going to drive me crazy.

Looking for strategies that people have found successful for getting a nipple out in this situation.  I figure if worst comes to worst I can take the tire off, remove the valve core and put a dab of rubber cement in the rim that will hopefully catch the nipple.  But I'd like to fish it out if I can.


texts: Is a brompton right for my riding style?

texts:
This question is for current OR past Brompton owners.

I am considering purchasing a Brompton because

hype about its quality built
compact
simply looks awesome!

About me:  6ft, 145lbs. (182cm and 66 kilograms)

I plan to carry 20-30 pounds (9-14 kilograms) extra ( work supplies, groceries)

Ideally, I want it to be my commuter bicycle.  I bike approximately 4 days a wk to work, 7 miles one way.

[Those who own(ed) a Brompton can you speak on your experience on its durability, and maintenance upkeep.]


texts: Rear derailleur needs a couple pedalstrokes to change gear

texts:
As of late I'm having some trouble with my rear derailleur.

When I shift specific gears (most likely to happen to the middle gears), the rear derailleur feels like it doesn't have enough power and needs another shift to change gears (when it does it changes two gears at once).

And when it does change 2 gears I have to shift one gear down again for my desired gear.

I have tried cleaning the whole thing as best as I could. There was a bit of gunk in the derailleur, so I carefully removed it and also cleaned the cassette extensively.

As always I'm going to consult with LBS anyway but maybe this is an easy fix I'm not aware of, because I'm too scared to touch any screws/parts myself.

Parts in question:

REAR DERAILLEUR SHIMANO RD-M390, SGS

I can't figure out what cassette it is though, but it mentions 11-32T on the parts list so I think that's the cassette "size" and it's 8-speed.


texts:
Someone suggested going with a 700c wheel to go faster, and after thinking about it I am wondering if a larger wheel actually does go faster. I understand that your gears will cause a wheel to rotate once and if the wheel has a larger circumference it will travel farther, but this comes at a cost to leg power, and why not just get a larger sprocket? So cut out the gears and such and talk about the physics.

I was lead to believe that rotating weight is what slows you down, so a larger wheel will have more mass, thus making it harder to push, hence slowing you down. A bike with 12" tires going the same speed as one with a 700c will have less rotating weight so will it be more efficient? If you are on a flat track with thin, hard tires and your bikes are geared to be equally efficient to pedal at low and high speeds, which wheel will make you faster?


texts: What makes one bike faster than another when same wattage is applied?

texts:
I have two bikes.  One is a $7k+ Cervelo S-Series, and the other is a <$1K Trek Domane AL 2.  With the same perceived effort applied, my Cervelo goes much faster.  I am able to routinely hit above 20mph mark with ease, whereas with the Trek, I struggle even to get up to 17/18mph.  The Trek is noticeably more difficult to ride.  I feel like I need to apply so much more effot to the pedals in order to get the bike to move.  I would like to upgrade the Trek so that for any given wattage, it goes faster.
My question is, what exactly is making the Trek so much slower than the Cervelo?  A few things come to mind.

Aerodynamics
Weight
Rolling resistance.

The Cervelo is more aerodynamic, but it doesn't seem like the resistance I feel is because of aerodynamics.
The Cervelo is lighter, but only by 3.5 lbs.  Again, doesn't seem to be the biggest culprit.
I have Continentall GP 5000 tires on the Cervelo, and just the stock basic Bontrager tires on the Trek, so that could be part of it?
For me, it seems like the Shimano Claris groupset is the biggest culprit.  It feels very clunky.  Would upgrading to a Shimano 105 be something to consider for this bike?


texts: I purchased a Trek Lime for my mother a few years ago.  Unfortunately, it has now been stolen and I need to replace it.  She has terrible arthritis so any bike that would require her hands to do more than hold on would be out of the question.  I've considered buying a cruiser and having an automatic transmission such as the nexus hub installed, but I'm just not familiar enough with automatic transmissions to be sure this is even possible. To complicate matters, I'm working out of the country for the next year and a half so I have to rely on others.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  BTW--I'm not willing to spend thousands of dollars on it.


texts: In which orientation should a front wheel be installed?

texts: A front wheel with a quick release mechanism can be installed in two orientations: the lever on the left, or the lever on the right.  Does it matter in which orientation it's installed?  If so, would any problems result from installing it the wrong way?


texts:
I have this 2002 Esperia which, and I need to change the tires cause I am getting back to it. The tire dimensions appear to be 25 x 1.90, 50-559. I read a bit about these new and old dimensions specifications, but I cannot find 25" (or col, I am not sure whether it's inch or col) in the online stores, but I can find 24" and 26".

Any advice? Will all (or none?) 26" fit my rim or what?

Additional question - I plan to ride on roads. Do I get slick tires?


texts: Are there adult bicycle passenger trailers for adults in Australia?

texts: I understand that there are kids bicycle trailers, but are there adult bicycle trailers? Specifically selling in Australia?


texts: 24V Vs 36V Brushless DC HUB Motor For Electric Bike

texts: I am considering buying an electric bicycle using brushless DC Hub Motor. What is the difference between 24V Vs 36V motor? Is it related to the maximum torque produced by the motor? If yes, what does that mean to a bike rider?


texts: Can I use my standard quick-release rear hub with a frame with 142x12mm rear end?

texts: I'm wanting to buy a Commencal VIP JR frame which has the 142mm x 12mm rear end. I'd like to keep my same wheelset however. My current rear hub is just the standard quick-release (which I assume is 135mm correct?). Is this possible? Perhaps with an adapter?


texts:
I need help on adjusting my Nexus 7 Shimano rear hub.

Today I tried to install a Shimano 7 gear shifter to change the gears on a Nexus 7 Shimano rear hub. Before installing, I lined up the red lines on the hub and I set the shifter to 4.

Next I lined up the red lines even better by the adjusting-wheel near the shifter.

The setup did work momentarily at one point. However, soon after the whole thing did not work anymore.

The problem: When I pedal hard the rear gear slips and does not drive the back wheel anymore. It is the same for every gear. I tried every position of the adjusting-wheel. After more than two hours and no success, I gave up.

Does anyone have a solution or the same problems? Is all the needed info here?


texts: Tube puncture over spoke, but rim tape fine

texts:
I have a puncture in my tube on a bump in the tube that coincides with a dip in the spoke hole, and am not sure if I need to replace the rim tape or not.

I have seen numerous posts about spoke induced punctures recommending either new rim tape if broken or filing the spoke down. However, over the spoke hole where my puncture occurred, the rim tape (which appears to be cloth tape, I did not install) seems fine, although a little off center but still covers the holes. There is nothing sharp, no holes in the tape, or any visible damage to the tape.

Is the puncture simply unlucky, or is there an issue with the tape, even though I cannot see any problems? I am not sure if the dips in the rim tape, which cause bumps in the tube, is an issue. From what I've seen, this is a common occurrence.

Of note, the bicycle has not been used for a couple months over the winter.


texts: Road bike identification: these lugs look familiar to anyone?

texts: Found this cleaning out a recently passed relative's garage. No markings or labels but looks nice. These lugs look familiar to anyone? Thanks!


texts:
I have a Shimano Altus 8-speed on my hybrid/commuter bike. I have to put in a new cassette and a new chain as well and looking at the teeth of the largest chainring cog in the front, it looks like the teeth are pretty worn as well.

I expected the chainrings to be replaceable individually but was puzzled to see that they are one solid unit. It kind of looks like a chainset but the pedal part seems so be attached by a screw and does not appear to be part of the chainring-set.

The largest cog has 48 teeth and has 4 extra holes to attach a chain protector.

Does anyone know the name of the part and a supplier in the UK?

Would it be advisable to invest in a chainset where I can replace individual cogs? What would be a possible part combination?


texts: Wheel Diameter: 64cm/25 inch what does this mean? I'm thinking of buying a new bike. but Ive never heard of 25 in wheels. Or is the 64cm a 700c. I've only had 26 in up till now and my knowledge in the cm is next to none. can anyone help me please?


texts: What is an effective yet safe way to remove skid marks from fabric originating from keeping a bicycle on it?-- The back tire of my bicycle has been standing on a piece of rug and I need to clean the rug now (I didn't know I should have kept the rug clean until it was too late):


texts:
So I have been commuting to work on my bike for about 12 months. The route takes me over a mixture of asphalt and some rocky forest trails. Just last week, I managed to get my rear wheel buckle. It got continuously worst over the last few days.

My bike is a Raleigh trekker bike. Similar to this one

http://www.raleigh-bikes.de/en/modelle/2014/trekking-sport/rushhour-10.html

What are some techniques that I can use to minimise buckling my rear wheel?

update: Thanks for the info. I had a closer look and found that the spoke was not able to extend itself enough to accommodate the bending of the rim. This must have occurred when I side hit a rock in the forest.


texts: Tire pressure decrease when the bike is idle

texts:
I ride a Btwin MyBike 7s.

Yesterday morning I noticed (for the first time since purchase) that in my rear tire, the tire pressure has decreased to a flat. I thought it was a puncture, so I refilled the tire using a hand-pump and poured water over the tires expecting bubbles but didn't get any.

Then I took it for a ride, 20 kms and came back - nothing happened.

Then I came back in the evening to notice that the air pressure has decreased again, almost half. Then today morning it's a flat again.

Is it a puncture? I checked the tire's mouth valve, it's not leaking any air there. Should I get the tube out and check for a puncture?


texts:
I was checking the brake pads on my bicycle and I noticed one of the arms seems to be seized:

It's this arm (I hope that's the right technical term). It will move but it's very stiff and when I use the brakes the other arm is doing all the work.

I did a search of the site and this seems a common problem but I couldn't find a simple explanation of how to fix it. Do I just undo the hex bolt at the end, apply grease and hope I can put it all back together? If so are there any I wish I hadn't done that pitfalls to avoid?

If it's relevant this is a town bike, a hybrid, rather than a true mountain bike so it's not a performance machine.


texts: What happened to rear levers for drop bar brakes?

texts:
I have a bike with an old set of second hand drop-bars, that have rear/upper bar brake levers, like this:

I've been looking around at modern drop-bar brake levers, and it seems like no-one manufactures levers like this any more. Why is that? It seems odd, since they give you two extra bar position with brakes in reach (on the flat, and high on the curve, which is really comfortable).


texts: Bosch Nyon computer -- syncs but no activities are transferred

texts:
I have an electric bike with a Bosch engine (Performance Line) and a Nyon Computer.

My eBike Connect app (on iPhone) is able to connect to the Nyon (see screenshot)

but no activities are synchronised

although on the Nyon the activities are present

Is there a way to make the app see the activities on the Nyon?


texts: lacing Alfine wheel, trailing spokes inside or outside hub flange

texts:
I am about to lace an Alvine hub wheel. Reading Sheldon Browns article there is a suggestion that the trailing, and so key, spokes might be better laced the opposite of what would be done for a deraillieur wheel. Meaning that the trailing spokes would go on the outside of the flange of the hub, thus the flat end of the spoke is on the inside of the flange.
Is this advisable and correct or does it not really matter? Or have I misunderstood completely.

Thanks for reading.


texts:
I have a single speed bicycle which has a spacer screw that controls the position of the rear wheel and hence the tension of the chain.

The screw goes through a small hole in the frame, which is threaded, and in to the drop out area. With the pair of screws at a level pegging, the proper position the wheel is assured and the chain tension is maintained.

What is the name of this part? I've bent one of my screws and need a replacement but can't find a hit on "rear wheel spacer screw."


texts: Should I get a downhill bike a little bit smaller size?

texts: My question would be is if I should buy a YT Tues CF 27.5 2017, size M when my height is 181cm, and the bike's chart goes up to 178 cm. And it is used by the way.


texts:
I've replaced chain and dropout hanger. The rear derailleur is Shimano Claris. When I'm turning pedals chain (Shimano hg-71) is touching small plate (marked with red arrow) between high (closer to high) and low pulleys with loud metal sound.
The derailleur works in general and I'm able to switch between all 8 gears.
How I can solve this issue or is it broken?
There are also video, where it is obvious in action
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aEuVgdymEKdN0EWf3sq25GhJhyD7SK0k/view?usp=sharing

UPD: Solved - I've bought new derailleur(claris ~20 eur) and I was able to configure it very easily. The problem in old one is really in broken inner plate geometry. This probably happend during my accident. Plate is bent in X axis towards towards the chain, which makes it really hard to bent back.


texts: I get a clicking sound every time I go uphill, sometimes I can even feel it. It's coming from somewhere around the handlebar. I keep thinking that my handlebar might be cracking but its just my imagination.


texts:
It seems like pretty much everywhere I look, serial numbers can't do the things that it seems they should be able to do.

They can't help people figure out what bike they have.

They can't help at all when recovering a stolen bike, unless you have the bike's number linked to your identity somehow (good luck finding the bike in the first place).

It seems like the only thing they're useful for is warranty fulfillment. You take your bike to the shop, and they check the serial number to make sure that it's the same one you bought from them three months ago. Is this the only intended purpose of a serial number?


texts:
Anyone knows this bike? I only know this is 24 speed. Model name please?
I know this picture is blurry, but this is the only pic.


texts:
I recently got my bike and rode it for a good 4 hours yesterday.

I'm pretty new to BMX riding, and really want to maintain my bike well.

I hear people clean their bike every time they finish, but was wondering if that is necessary.


texts: Recently I've been getting notifications on my edge 510 of an upcoming segment (& and display when riding through it) - I can turn this off by hitting the red cross on screen when it comes up, but I'd like to completely disable this function and can't work our how. Any ideas?


texts: Is it ok for the trunk bike rack to rest against the glass of a hatchback?

texts:
I feel like this is one of those obvious questions, but I have been unsuccessful at finding an answer (even in the manual for the rack!).

I just purchased a bike rack (only holds 2 bikes) for my Subaru hatchback. I have found that I can mount the rack such that it doesn't press against the glass of the back windshield, but mounting it so low requires that I remove the front wheel of my bike (at least to make me comfortable, it probably would be fine).

Can I instead mount it so that the rack presses against the back windshield?  Is this likely or possible to break the back windshield?

Note that my back windshield is not cracked, though the car is 10+ years old.

EDIT: The bike rack, which is a Thule Thruway Pro 2, uses two foam-padded bars as the main contact points between the rack and the car.  I figure that this question is probably valid for any bike rack with padded bars as the contact points, not just Thule bike racks.


texts: Uncomfortable saddle position on road bike.

texts:
I ride a road bike three times a week (Bitten by strava bug)( I am 5'9" and use a 54 cm frame)

I installed my new pedals and am wearing my new cycling shoes for first time. I raised the saddle height few centimeters hoping to match the rise in height due to cleats.

Also, i moved my saddle towards the stem to accommodate the height change, for some reason my saddle is a real pain. I feel uncomfortable and have to focus constantly on setting myself on saddle rather than focusing on the road ahead.

I think this also is pushing me back in terms of giving my best on the road. I have tried using methods like leg seam length, knee slightly bend method to try adjust the saddle and it doesn't seem to work.

Has anyone of you also faced this problem and what did you do to fix it ?


texts: Pain in my front shoulder muscle - suggestions? (Hybrid cycle)

texts:
I ride a hybrid cycle to/from work each day (10 km / 6 US miles each way).

The handle bars are flat, and I ride with my thumbs gripped around the handle and 2 fingers close to or over the brakes (I feel safer).

Last year I rode every weekday without problems, but this year I am getting some pain in my front shoulder muscle on my right side.

I was doing 20 chinups and 50 pushups each day, so I cut these out for a while to see if it would help. I'm still cycling and still getting the pain. It hurts most when I sleep at night (I am a side sleeper) and when I wake up I feel the pain in a small area (front deltoid).

I am wondering if other people had similar pain and any suggestions?

Perhaps riding with my seat higher, or riding a racing bike would help, or even those little "verticle handles" that can be attached on very the end of my handle bars pointing upwards.

Maybe my muscle development was assymetric with all the exercises that hit the front (cycling, pushups) without balancing exercises for the back?

I'm 39, 6 foot / 86 kg and in otherwise very good physical shape.

Thanks for any tips / advice

PS. I'm a computer programmer by trade and use my right arm often during the day with the mouse.


texts: Can a team car ride ahead of the peloton to support a cyclist?

texts: Suppose someone is solo-ing or is part of a break-away group that is several minutes ahead of the peloton. And they get a flat tire. Is the team car allowed to ride ahead of the peloton to reach the person and fix the problem? Or does that person have to wait for the peloton, then the team car, and thus loose their position?


texts:
I am working on understanding this document for an n55 trike frame build ...

http://www.n55.dk/MANUALS/SPACEFRAMEVEHICLES/DIY.pdf

Particularly this line:

  M6 SELFLOCKING NUTS, stainless (DIN985) - ca. 150 pieces (TWOSEATER:
  200 pieces)

After some googling I found out that M6 refers to Metric and 6 refers to 6mm.

Self locking means the nuts are better at handling vibrations so they do not become loose.

However the DIN985 I can not determine.

Google did not appear to pull up anything useful: search

What does this refer to?


texts:
I've entered into a 50km xc race in 3 months time. I'm new to mtb and riding a 2010 Hardrock Disc that I originally bought for commuting. So far I haven't done any upgrades save getting a set of SPDs. I've started training for the race and worried that closer to the race some of the standard parts on my bike may start to give out. Due to lving in New Zealand it takes a few weeks to get decent parts shipped out here at a reasonable price (I can't afford the gap in training or cost).

The SR Suntour XCT V2 forks that came with the bike so far are ok but should I be considering changing them and what low cost forks offer good value for money to replace them? Also what are some early indications of problems that I should be aware of?


texts: Installing a Bottle Cage without Mounting Screws/Threads

texts:
I have a Next PX 6.0 mountain bike.  It did not come with pre-installed mounting screws/threads for a bottle cage.  The frame has large oval-shaped tubes, so many attachments that come with bottle cages don't work, since they're not big enough to wrap around the entire tube.
My current configuration is with cable ties, but they keep breaking.  The bottle cage is currently only attached by one cable tie, as the other two have snapped off.  (The bike is hanging from the ceiling, which is why the orientation might look strange.)
Are there any options out there for a more permanent installation of a bottle cage on this bike?
[UPDATE: I gave this bike away when I graduated from college, which was before I got around to attempting any of the solutions offered here.  But, if you have a similar issue, the answers/comments here should still help.]


texts: 9/16 pedals wont go in crank - they're too big

texts: What about if you have two gears on the crank. I used a 5/8 open wrench to take out my original pedals on my Schwinn Sierra and the new 9/16 pedals won't go in - they're too big. What size would it need? I'd like to use an adapter.


texts: Fox Talas RLC fork not rebounding, and compressing under no load

texts:
I have an older fox Talas RLC fork. It rebounds under no weight fine, but even just sitting and pedaling it compresses fully.

If i pull up it will rebound, or get off it will rebound. But it seems to slowly sink when im on the bike.

Lock out still works, and the PSI is at 90-100, and I weigh 185. So that seems to be within normal range.


texts: Fluid combination lock resetting, forgot to turn the resetting knob back

texts:
Out of the box, tried to reset the combination, forgot the step after setting the new number, where we turn the knob back, I forgot to turn the knob back, locked it. now it wont open with neither the original 0000 or the number that I though I set.

Since it was not turned back, then the new number should have not been set and 0000 should have opened it.

Any hints on how to open it without having to cut the cable?


texts: Does rocking the bike side to side when e.g. sprinting or climbing help?

texts:
Or would more power go through the pedals if the rider held the frame still/upright?

Or is there little difference? How would it be measured and what are the forces acting on the bike when rocking while sprinting?


texts:
So I have this second hand Canondale lefty MTB which I love very much. Rode it around home in the woods, but now I visit more and more events and I need to transport my bike by car to the event. Unfortunately I have to remove the front wheel of the lefty and with that the brake caliper. And the biggest problem is putting the bike together again without the caliper screeching against the disc.

For clarity, I remove the two bolts and then the whole black part on the right in the picture below. I think that's the brake calliper.

What is the trick?

I've watched some video's on GCN, asked my friends (who don't have a lefty), read forum posts, but no failsafe solution. It takes me sometimes almost an hour and three times removing the wheel again before it finally fits perfectly. Surely there is an easier way....

Please help.


texts: Has anyone else had problems with a Stages power meter at high cadence?

texts: I just started using a stages power meter and it works as expected but with one major flaw so far.  When I just did some sprint intervals on the trainer as soon as the cadence went above 150 rpm the cadence read 0 for one refresh,  the power froze for 2 or 3 refresh cycles and then also read 0 until i finished the interval.  Has anyone else had this problem?


texts: Problem during installation of Rockshox Reverb Stealth product

texts:
I am following the SRAM official procedure on a very similar bike to the one reviewed. However, I am stuck at this part: unthread the hose from the remote's barb.

I just can't. I am holding the hose very firmly, 10mm away from it's end, and turning the remote counter-clockwise. The hose begins to twist and a 1/8 rotation is achieved only due to hose twisting, no rotation is observed at it's end.

Should I use pliers? Put something soft underneath? The product is brand-new, boxed.

After trying to unscrew the hose 3, I decided I need to unscrew 2. I used a wrench and it took me some time to realize this is different than in the video. One drop of oil spilled. I tightened it not very much, although probably more than original.

I tried with 1 turned all the way to either direction, but the hose doesn't come off.


texts: Is it normal to wear out the rear tire with in a few months when using a trainer?

texts:
Early this year I attached my bicycle to a trainer, around the December time frame of 2011. The rear tire and inner tuber where shot by March of 2012. Riding about 24 Miles per week. Is this normal with the use of a trainer?

I have had the bicycle since 2004, and the tires were in good condition prior to attaching to the trainer. I have never had a flat, and the tread wear was good, probably had about 3000 Miles on the rear tire. After 3-4 months on the trainer the rear tire was bald, and the nylon belting was stringing on the inside of the tire, and the inner tube could not hold pressure long even with patching.

I ended up just order a new tire and inner tube for the front wheel and rotated the old tire and tube set to the rear wheel. Should I plan to do this every time I hook up the trainer for the season?


texts: What makes one road tire have a less "bouncy" ride than another?

texts:
When I replaced my rear tire this week, I expected an almost intangible improvement in weight, rolling resistance, and grip. However, I have noticed a significantly less "bouncy" ride. The new tire is different from the old tire in several ways, so I'm curious as to what about the tires is most responsible for the change in ride quality.

Specifically, my old tire was a 28mm Specialized Armadillo, and the new tire is a 25mm Michelin Pro4 Endurance. For both tires, I pump to about 100 or 105 psi and refill when they drop to about 85 psi (I'm only 150 pounds). A few differences that might plausibly affect the ride quality are:

sidewall thickness/stiffness (the Armadillo is a puncture-resistant tire)
smaller tire size (25mm vs. 28mm)

Which of these differences is most likely to be responsible for the less "bouncy" ride, or is it something else entirely? Is it normal to feel a noticeable difference in ride quality between two road tires?


texts:
This is a hypothetical question but I'm curious.  Assuming an endless, freshly paved road with no turns, what would be my maximum speed?

EDIT
My question is too general so to help I'm adding some extra assumptions:

19 degree slope like Baldwin St.
Tuck is hands on drops, back horizontal as described in this study
Still air conditions (no head/tail/crosswinds) winds
No special suit, just normal warm weather road kit


texts:
I have only been riding for a short time and I remember when I was a child there was a belief that if you used your front brakes going downhill that you would fly over your handlebars.

However, my friend who is a long time rider said I should use my front brakes more often as they are more efficient and you would have to be doing something crazy to go over.

Is there any truth to the belief and should I use my front brake the most?


texts: Citizen folding bike 3 speed - pedal slipping

texts: My citizen folding 3 speed (gear change in hub).  Slips as I pedal it.  It appears the worst in gear 1.  It does not do it with every revolution, but it slips frequently.  How do I fix this problem?


texts:
I just bought a 1970s Peugeot Mixte UE-18 for $10 at my local bike co-op. It's in great shape, but is missing the bottom bracket and cranks. I'd like to upgrade to a cotterless crankset. However, I don't know how to measure the chainline without cranks installed. I was thinking of getting these BB cups (with French threading) and finding a spindle of the right size. How do I figure out the right spindle length? Has anyone encountered this issue? Am I going about it the correct way? I would just like to keep the cost of the bottom bracket under $50.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Will slightly loose bearings result in damage?

texts:
I just overhauled some cheap bmx hubs. I installed new bearings and cones. Now I'm trying to get the hubs adjusted so that the bearings will last as long as possible.

I had always thought that leaving bearings even a tiny bit loose (be it bb, pedal, or hub) was one of the cardinal sins when it came to maintaining a bike. But reading this from Sheldon Brown put that in question:

  If nothing you can do will eliminate both the binding and the play at
  the same time, it is better to adjust a little loose and accept a
  slight amount of play then to have the hub bind

This is the situation I'm in. Is a little bit of bearing play a legitimate option? Will my bearings wear down more quickly if they are slightly binding or if they are slightly loose?


texts: How do you measure return on investment (ROI) for an electric bike?

texts:
As we consider an e-bike vs. a car purchase, I'm trying to assess return on investment (ROI). My cost factors are, in order of priority, time, money, and carbon footprint.

My commute

I travel 20 miles daily, 5 days/week, over moderately hilly terrain in a temperate zone with four-season weather.
I drive a ten-year old car that gets 45 mpg and has low annual maintenance costs.

Car costs

The car trip takes 20 minutes on avg., so time cost is 40 minutes/day, 178 hours/year, or 37 days in 5 years.
At a fuel cost of $2.30/gal, daily fuel cost is $1.02, or $267/year.
To buy another car like the one I own, according to Kelly Blue Book, I would pay $3,250. For sake of argument, I'll assume the car will last five more years.
Insurance costs are $552/year.
Maintenance costs include oil and filter changes and unexpected repairs. On average this has been about $800/year.
Cash outlay the first year is $4,869. Subsequent years would be $1,619. Estimated five-year financial cost is $11,345.
Estimated carbon footprint is 2,296 lbs of C02, or 11,480 lbs in 5 years.

E-bike costs

Testing e-bikes, trip time is ~40 mins. Daily packing prep time, a shower, and a clothes change add 25 mins. Normal time cost is 105 minutes/day or 467 hours/year.
Because of weather, I can't bike-commute daily. Of the 267 work days/year, I'll Uber on 30 of them. At 20 minutes per trip, Uber time is 20 hrs per year.
Adjusting for Uber, annual time cost is 435 hrs, or 90 days in 5 years.
With moderate motor assist, I consume approximately 300 Wh of electricity daily. Cost per kWh is $0.13, so fuel cost is $0.04/day or $10/year.
Speaking to local bike shops, the high side of annual maintenance costs is ~$150.
The e-bike I'm considering costs $3,000. Adding high quality waterproof panniers ($150), a pump ($20), tube ($5), seat post bag ($10), rain jacket ($100), lock ($50), and clothing ($300) brings the kit cost to $3,635. I will not add additional insurance.
Uber costs $22/trip, so 60 trips per year (30 days) is $1,320.
Adjusting for Uber days, cash outlay the first year is $5,115. Subsequent years would be $1,480. Estimated five-year financial cost is $11,035.
For the bike alone, estimated carbon footprint is 110 lbs of C02/year. Adjusting for Uber rides (265 lbs/yr), that translates to 363 lbs/yr, or 1,813 lbs for 5 years.

Over 5 years, the car is >2x better in terms of time. The e-bike + Uber mode breaks even with the car in terms of money. The e-bike + Uber mode produces less than 1/6th the CO2.

I'm not surprised about the time or carbon footprint, but I thought the finances would look more attractive. Where am I making incomplete or unsafe assumptions, and how should I modify these calculations?


texts: 1 inch threadless headset with hollow cap for cable routing

texts:
Lets skip the questions about why I want to do this, but I would like to run my front brake cable through my headset. This is an older race frame with a 1 inch headset. Most headsets built for this are BMX and I can't seem to find a 1 inch one.
So I want to know if anyone knows of any parts that would work for me?
Also is there a way to jerry rig the "AheadSet Hollow Cap and Bolt 1 1/8 Threadless Freestyle" to make it fit?


texts: Buying a bike (new or 2nd hand) at start of EuroVelo 6

texts:
My wife and I will traveling from Nantes in France, to Budapest along the EuroVelo 6 Cycle Route. A distance of ~2300km

For various reasons (travel ahead of time, logistics of transporting bikes etc.) we would like to buy our bikes for the trip, at the start of the trip. Either in Nantes itself, or in Paris which is our last stop before starting the trip.

Our budget for buying bikes is around EUR700 per bike (including panniers etc.)

Our knowledge of french is v. basic.

My question:

Where is the best place to buy a touring bike for our budget, either new or second hand, in Paris or Nantes, specifically for someone with limited local language knowledge. Have had Decathalon suggested, but general experiences with big sports stores is fairly negative.

Thanks!

Richard


texts: What should I look for in clipless pedals and shoes?

texts:
I am just thinking about investing in some clip-in pedals (and presumably shoes).  I want to use them mostly on my older road bike but in the future I might want to move them over onto my mountain bike.

What do I need think think about when investing in clip-in pedals/shoes?  (I have never ridden clippless pedals before).

I am thinking about picking up a pair of the Exustar E-SM440 Mountain Cycling Shoes or the  Lake MX 85 Cycling Shoes.  Would this be a reasonable shoe to start with?


texts:
I have a Boardman CXR 8.9, everything stock except for new mech hanger.
It has a 11-42 cassette with a 11 speed 1x drivetrain. It's Sram Apex throughout, no mixing and matching like in other questions.

The issue is - while downshifting (going from smaller to larger cog) works well, the opposite needs a "nudge" most of the time. The "nudge" could be stopping to pedal for several seconds or pulling the shifter cable and then letting it go.

Already tried to fix my shifting, changed the mech hanger (original was slightly bent) but neither helped. Rear derailleur still seems sticky.
It seems that others had the same issue, but the only suggestion (use a spacer) doesn't seem to apply to me, as it's already there (see picture)

Did I miss something?


texts: Should I let chronic training load drop (as in stop training) to end my current level of tiredness or continue riding?

texts:
I currently feel very tired yet have not been doing much interns of high mileage, I have however entered a Tuesday night tt series which is usually 10 miles but the week it was a 25 mile tt. I feel particularly burnt out despite the low mileage I have accumulated.

Should I wait till my chronic training load and acute training load drops and start again with lsd rides and attempt to build my form up from the beginning again?


texts: timing chain keeps dropping/derailing only with partner

texts:
For a volunteer project biking with blind riders (NiewidomiNatandemach.pl), we've been partnered up and provided a tandem bike, that seems new enough and in good condition.

Unlike the guy behind me--about my same weight and pedaling strength--as the pilot in front I get to see the upcoming terrain and decide to gradually steer or shift gears (5-speed) before it is "felt" and becomes tactily intuitive.

I can't quite figure out why the timing chain(front) keeps dropping out of its front chainring, jamming to the right, between the teeth and disk separating the pedal. Almost always we have to come to a full stop and re-seat it by hand.

There is a sprocket 10-teeth wheel supporting the lower part of that chain, pulling it upwards. I had adjusted it higher & lower to test various tensions; often it too easily loses the chain.

The top part of that chain is nearly a straight line with little to no drooping. The whole configuration is thus (actual bike photo now...evidently wasn't clear enough that previous was just smth similar from Google Images):

Some findings:

No matter how much I try to "aggravate" it with sharp turning, gear-shifting, breaking, etc., I cannot get it to derail when riding alone. Then it works fine.  No slipping nor skipping either.
Our latest working theory vaguely points to situations when the rear rider is momentarily applying more pedaling torque than the front. Unfortunately these are inevitable and unforeseen, as much as we try to communicate and coordinate maneuvers. (Comment response: yes, we thoroughly talk or otherwise signal while biking. Again, there are situations despite this when the pilot has to make unplanned but instant judgement calls for our safety, though these are not dramatic nor unusual for the bike itself.)
Yet the rear chain never slips off, even though that's the only place gear shifting happens: at the rear wheel only. There is no left-handed gear shift.

Any ideas?

Other things tried that didn't seem to change much:

Switching to an 11-tooth sprocket
Bypassing the sprocket entirely by removing 4 links in the front chain

Local mechanics & standard bike shops in our small town happily mucked with it, but don't appear to know exactly and be able to remedy.

EPILOG

This band-aid at least kept us going pretty well the whole week:

The strings/cables suspending the sprocket directly upwards added tension to supplement its thick spring/coil.
Again, shortening the chain by even the minimum possible made it already too short to fit.


texts: Gazelle taillight Power Vision user manual

texts:
I have this battery-powered tail lamp. It has one button to switch on/off and, when pressed for few seconds, probably "lock" lamp, which indicates this by flashing 3 times ("unlocking" procedure is the same).

I'd like to know how to activate movement / light sensor on this lamp, in which it's probably equipped with. It has also some kind of battery level indicator, which I'm not sure how to interprete. User guide for this model would be appreciated.


texts: Can I legally use front facing blue light in the UK?

texts: I have a white front-facing light and a red light at the back. However, I was wondering if I could add the blue light at the front as well from a legal standpoint. Whether it is flashing or constant doesn't matter to me, I was just wondering if it was okay to have another type of colour at the front to get noticed, and this is the only other colour I have available.


texts: Hybrid/gravel bike mudguards/fenders with specific coverage

texts: Are there any aftermarket fenders that only span from the chainstay to the seatstay? I don't trust the rigidity of full-length mudguards beyond the chainstay and this is only to minimize contamination towards my front derailleur. I would prefer it if there's no cutting/bodging involved.


texts:
I want to remove my SRAM Guide RS rear brake (to replace it with Shimanos). The frame has internal routing, so I need to keep the DOT fluid from coming out of the cable when pulling them through the frame.

Is there a cheap way to prevent the DOT fluid from coming out of the cable? (If possible, I'd like to avoid buying a SRAM bleed kit to suck the fluid out of the cable. I wouldn't mind if the brake doesn't survive the procedure.)


texts: Are there any mini pumps that can be mounted on a wide rectangular frame?

texts:
On my previous MTB (a hard tail from 2002), I had mounted a mini pump (not sure which brand) under/next to the bottle cage. The pump came with a frame mount and a velcro strip to secure it in place in the frame.

When I tried to mount this pump on my new bike (2018 Trek Fuel EX 8), I found that the frame mount of the pump does not fit the frame of the Trek - it's made for a round down tube, while the Trek's down tube (where its only bottle cage can be mounted) is more like a wide rectangle. The pump's frame mount doesn't fit that since the rounded shape does not fit on the bike's frame shape.

Having looked at other mini pumps that come with a frame mount, I've noticed (from photos) that most of the frame mounts seem to be similar to what I have - expecting a rounded down tube.

Are there any mini pumps that can be mounted on a frame like the Trek's? I've checked my son's Focus and my wife's Liv bike, and the pump does not fit on their frames either.

If not, is there any other clever way to mount the mini pump on the bike? I don't think I can use the seat post, since it is a drop post...


texts: how to remove oil from mtb disk brake at home

texts: My cycle has got an front disc brake I not know how but unfortunately few drops of oil got on my disc brake now it was making a very bad sound like a violen and and could even not able to stop my cycle at all now I have only one way to fix it,s you please help me


texts: I'm perplexed, why is my cloth rim tape not sticking?

texts: I have a pair of Velocity Deep V wheels (silver, from Velo Mine) and have a roll of BBB BTI-98 16 mm tape. I tried to apply it today and the adhesive will not stick to the rim. It just kept sliding. Moreover, the part of the tape that I attempted to apply to the rim no longer is as sticky as it was initially. What gives?


texts: How big can I drop safely on a mountain bike

texts: I have an 80 mm front shock (fork) and the back shock says it's 3 inches. What size jumps can I do without ruining the bike or shocks?


texts: For a slightly warped wheel, is it worth getting it repaired?

texts:
My son has a relatively cheap kids mountain bike, no suspension or anything flash, and after a minor crash into a friend the back wheel is slightly out of true. It only causes issues under braking when the warped area of the wheel leads to stuttering braking, and locking up entirely when the brakes are pulled hard.

My gut feel is that I should just throw it and get a new one, as I don't know how repairable these things are.

Can bike shops repair that sort of thing?


texts: What headset/radio products exist for bike-to-bike communication?

texts:
I commute to work by bike, sometimes I share the journey with a co-worker. The problem is because of the wind and distance between the bikes, it's very hard to hear what the other person says.

It would be great to have some kind of hands-free radio headset to communicate while riding.  For example, one solution might be a bluetooth headset, like the ones used with mobile phones, coupled with some kind of mobile phone or radio.

The best I could find were wired units meant for two people sharing one motorbike. The radio based units I found were again for motorbikes and also seemed very expensive.

Do units like this exist for cyclists?


texts: Is is possible to calculate stack and reach for framesize 63?


texts:
I searched and tried the Gore Windbreaker Jacket today on. It fits me very well and I like the look of the jacket in black.

The white one looks good too, but I am afraid that it is harder to clean if it gets dirty.
Is it a bad idea to cycle in full black clothes because of visibility?


texts: I heard recently that Simon Gerrans of the new Green Edge cycling team had won one of the monuments.  What are these races?


texts: Wheel with Centerlock hub for disc brakes and rim for caliper brakes

texts:
Does it make sense to build a wheel with a hub with Centerlock for disc brakes and a rim for caliper brakes?

My idea is to use the front wheel with a dynamo on two bikes, if I decide that I need a light on my more sportive bike, or to use the wheels for a future bike with disc brakes.

E.g. Shimano Deore LX DH-T675 + Mavic A 319


texts: Shimano integrated shifter/brake, model ST-2200

texts: The question I am asking is on the Shimano ST-2200 (Claris) shifter brakes. Are the actual levers made of plastic?


texts: What could I do with a damaged helmet (other than wearing it)?

texts:
I recently damaged my helmet (standard Bell road style) in a fall, so it will be retired from use (I'm a firm believer in the '1 hit' rule: My helmet had a bad fall. Is it still good?)

Rather than just throwing the helmet in the garbage, can anyone suggest some other useful purpose for it (or the parts)?


texts: Are Avids BB7 superior to the Hayes Stroker Ryde?

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I know one is mechanical (BB7) and the other Hydraulic (Hayes)? but I have both and I need to decide. For a XC use, which would you keep?, and why?

PS: I'm upgrading from V-Brakes (Shimano XT group). So these will be my first Disc-Brakes.


texts: What bags will fit a Challenge Seiran SL?

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I own a Challenge Seiran SL (the 26" lightweight version of this). For some short multidays trips I need to attach some form of bags. What are the available bags that will fit?

Full size picture

For an other recumbent I already have a pair of Ortlieb recumbent bags but they attach to a rear rack and I do not see how I could attach a rack to my Seiran… Or is it possible?

Edit: The Seiran SL is not pictured on the web page. You can see it in the Chanllenge Product Guide on page 18.


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I recently got a bargain on a Trek Verve 3 bike. From what I read, it should support my weight (6 feet tall, 290lbs and going down) if I get wider tires with strong sidewalls. Currently I have an AT 750 Rim with 700 x 32C tires and wonder what kind of tire I should get to ensure I will not get those flats on the road.

I will be using this bike for commuting on pavement only. No harsh riding or anything.

This bike also has the front suspension fork which I was told I could lock in to avoid it from going up and down all the time.

Any thoughts on the tires or advice at all? Thank you!


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Looking for help identifying this brand. I must decide if it’s worth driving 2 hours for it! Got first dibs but owner doesn’t know what it is; I know enough to see it’s worth something;)
Update: serial number is D92548. Badge is “Seiberling Road King”; manufactured by Cleveland Welding Company/Seiberling Rubber Company.
I am now trying to date it


texts: Is it compatible to use a Sram quick link on a Shimano chain (both 11sp.)?


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How should I know when my rear derailleur is getting worn? I can measure/inspect chains, tyres and brakes;  gears tend to show problems on a new chain if they're worn. But when changing my chain at the weekend I noticed the that there seemed to be quite a bit of play in the pivots - more than I'd expect from mechanical bits in general. Also the jockey wheels were quite worn (and didn't run very smoothly even after a good clean and dry PTFE).

In my specific case it's only Altus, with about 20 000 km on it, and the bike doesn't get cleaned as often as it should.


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Recently my 2008 Devinci mountain bike sounds like it's ticking when I push down on my left pedal on a usual rotation.

When I turn the bike over and go through rotations, I can't get it to tick.

When I put my left crank all the way down & jump a little on the left pedal, I don't get the ticking.  Only when I'm spinning.

The ticking isn't 100% consistent, but probably about 80-90% of the rotations have this tick.

I took it to my LBS, but they just said it was a bent chainring tooth - which it wasn't.

Does this sound like this is definitely the bottom bracket?

Thanks.

Update: I took it into my LBS to get the BB taken out & cleaned.  The tech said he couldn't find anything wrong with it, but did hear the ticking.  He greased & lubed anything that moved, and the sound lessened quite a bit.  I haven't had a good long ride on the bike since, so I haven't verified if the sound has gone away.

Final update: Went for a good ride & didn't hear the ticking, so it was likely the BB.