texts: Help please - I am suspicious this bike might be stolen

texts:
I recently got this Btwin Triban 3 bike from a person I definately trust. He said they have had it for a couple of years but don't use it anymore and originally got it from a family member a while ago. Also it needs work (flat tyres, rusty chain e.t.c so it's not really rideable). However I noticed that the sticker on the bottom that all btwins have has been scratched by probably a coin, where the number/code is found which to me seems suspicious.
Also, I checked the serial number which is stamped into the frame on www.checkthatbike.co.uk and the results "couldn't find any identification the bike is stolen". On that basis, If I decide to sell it would that be ok and would I have to take anything else into consideration?
Many thanks in advance


texts:
Possible duplicate: Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?

I cycle 12 miles to work (and the same back) of which the first 5 miles are on a cycle path away from the road and the other 7 are on the road. I go very early so see no other cyclists and therefore listen to music on the cycle path. I then take either both or sometimes just one ear out when I hit the road section.

I realise the argument is that any kind of distraction is not a good thing, but in my opinion, as someone new to commuting by bike, when I am cycling, I hold my line, check over my shoulder before moving over to pass parked cars etc, and do everything possible to avoid the chances of an accident.

The main dangers I can foresee are someone not giving me enough room when passing, or someone pulling out from a side street. I am very well lit and I can't see that having headphones on would prevent either of these accidents from happening.

My question is (Ive got there eventually!) has anyone ever had an accident while wearing headphones that could have been avoided if they hadnt had them on, or has anyone had a near miss without headphones that would have been an accident if they had have had headphones on??

Any kind of sensible response or argument from this will help to convince me that headphones are bad news as at the moment i'm not sure that I am actually in any more danger with them on


texts: Do I need sensors to see real time data (speed and cadence) on Strava Live?

texts: I would like to see real-time data (speed and cadence, no heart-rate for now) on Strava Live on my iPhone 7. Do I need to install bluetooth sensors on my bike or it just magically works? If it just works, is it reliable/accurate or I should still install sensors and let it get this information from the bluetooth sensors?


texts: Can long cycle rides cause damage to people fitted with a bladder sphincter

texts:
Can any body tell me if they have experienced any problems or pain. I have a bladder sphincter fitted and am concerned about doing a long bike ride. My question is I am currently training for a 10 day cycle ride with an average distance of 70 miles per day, total 700 miles in July. I have started to get some niggles (cramp) with over filled bladder. The valve goes off frequently causing leakages.

Love to hear from cyclist with similar experience.


texts: Is this a good bike light? And should I give these people my money?

texts:
I was was checking out this bike light.  It looks good enough for me.  I (rarely) get lost on trails around dusk, but more importantly I commute - a lot by bike.  I really just want to be seen.

What caught my eye was the review: there are nearly 500 5 star, and a mere 17 1 star review.  I'll take my chances.  But this is where it starts getting questionable.

First off, they make sure  you get to read #1 Bike light on Amazon, if it is.  Okay.  But, in the video they use to advertise it, they claim that most bicycle accidents happen at night - they don't, as you can read about here.  They also flash statistics in the video that aren't related to the time of day... at all....

That said, this government source says it is more risky to ride at night (more people probably ride during the day.  Is it proportionately more dangerous?)

Is this marketing practice unethical?  I don't want to reward unethical advertising with cash, but in the grand scheme of things it's probably more important that the are selling a quality product if they say they are.

Could the ratings have been (partly) faked?

Has anyone used one?  I can't seem to find a review of the dang thing on youtube, as popular as they are supposed to be!


texts:
A few day ago I got this bike from a friend for a restoration. He thinks it's bianchi but I am sure it's not. It has Wienman brakes, simplex derailleurs, 3ttt steam, ofmega hubs and ofmega crankset. Because of the age of the parts (1970) and frame details I think it's French Motobecane but can someone confirm or can be sure it's something else. Thanks

http://imgur.com/a/aYQfj


texts: Ball size to ball bearing lookup possible

texts: Just found a tiny metal ball in my bike fiddling corner. I haven't worked on any ball bearing since the last cleaning, so I'm a bit confused where it might have dropped out of. It's pretty exactly 3mm in diameter. Is there any chance to infer which ball bearing it may have dropped out of at some point?


texts: 2015 Fox RC2 160/36 (650b) fork - negative air pressure problem

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As far as I can tell after speaking with 2 different Fox Service technicians, nobody seems to know why their forks have this well-known problem with negative air pressure increasing and migrating, and not re-equalizing.

I don't understand the whole thing, but there's only one port that allows air to move from the positive to negative chambers. I've now had 2 of the 2015 RC2's and both began doing the same thing after about 3 months of riding: the stanchions started not fully retracting when I am standing next to bike, compressing fork as far as possible and immediately lifting front tire off the ground. I tried "burping" with a ziptie between dust wipe and stanchion, but nothing there. I will next try removing the top cap and rod and slick honey it as directed and see if that fixes the problem, as well as do an oil change.

One year ago, with my first 2015 RC2 (160/36 - 26") Fox had me send it in under warranty - they ended up sending me a brand new fork, but it was never clear what the problem was. I hope I don't have to send this one in. Even one of the techs I talked to said he had asked an engineer about this who also didn't know what causes this problem(!) Hard to believe as it's a well-known issue, and I'd like to know how to prevent it. Btw, I have not been riding at high altitudes. I have bottomed out a few times - but why should that, if it has something to do with this, be the cause?? thanks!


texts:
How do i determine Bianchi Infinito year of manufacture from these labels WBK446115F  and TPJ611528F?
These labels are on the frame bottom bracket.


texts: Shimano Nexus Inter-3 internal gear hub stuck in second gear?

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The situation My Shimano Nexus Inter-3 internal gear hub is stuck in second gear (it's a 3-gear hub). When I take the external cable housing apart, I can move the pin that goes inside to change gears, but the gear does not actually change anymore. Also, when the pin is fully emerged from the housing, there's still some space left between it and the lever that transfers force from the cable. The pin is still springloaded though, and seems pushed out into its extreme position. Still I suspect that it may not be coming out fully.

Questions
What kind of problem could cause these symptoms, and how would I go about fixing it? Is it even possible to open up the internal gear hub to fix this, or would I perhaps be better off not bothering and just installing a new one (which would mean reattaching all spokes)?

I'm not 100% sure, but it seems that this is the hub I'm talking about: Shimano Nexus Inter-3 EV-SG-3C41-2330 -INTER-3 (Edit: broken link removed - this Shimano technical PDF is a close match).


texts: Can someone help me identify this old Shimano derailleur?

texts: I want to poke around online a bit and see if I can find anything out about it. It's a long cage, on an old 18 speed Univega MTB. Thanks.


texts: Plastic ring on new Shimano crankset, toss or keep?

texts: I just got a new Shimano crankset and it has this plastic ring on the "inside" of the small chainring.  I'm thinking that this just some packing material.  Am I right and can I toss it, or is this a real part?


texts: Adjusting saddle angle on a road bike (drop bars)

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I'll preface this by saying that I've been a mountain biker for over a decade, including XC racing for a couple years.  I've never had a hard time adjusting the saddle angle (tilt forward or back) on my mountain bikes.

Now, I just got my first road bike, and I can't seem to get the angle to feel right. The seatpost is an Icon Graphite series (single bolt adjustment, but has notches as you angle the seat fore and aft). Saddle is a Selle San Marco (Trek 'postal service' design).

It seems that at one seat angle, it feels fine when I have my hands on top of the bars (on brake handles), but when I'm in the drops, its not so comfortable on my "soft bits", and I find myself lifting myself slightly off the seat with my legs as I ride to keep the pressure off.

Alternatively, if I tip the seat 1 notch forward, then I feel more comfortable in the drops, but when more upright on top of the bars or on the brake handles, then my butt slides forward.

I guess this just has to do with the change in body angle from being on top of the bars to being in the drops, and wanting the seat to be at a different angle for each position.  Since on my mountain bikes, you don't really change your whole body's angle that much, I've never had this problem before.

I though maybe switching to a 2-bolt style post might help because I could try to get it adjusted into a "sweet spot" basically at an angle between 2 notches on this Icon post, but the Icon post is also set back slightly, whereas a 2-bolt adjustable design puts the seat directly over the tube, so the seat would be slightly more forward then to begin with...

Any suggestions?


texts: Can I use reflective tape instead of a rear reflector in the UK?

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My road bike isn't fitted with a rear reflector as I got it second hand and I think they removed it. If I purchased some red reflective tape and fitted it around the seatpost/seatstay, would this make my bike compliant with the law in the UK?

The law says I need a red reflector facing backwards, so I'm unsure if good quality reflective tape (such as this) would comply with the law due to it not purely facing backwards, and the fact that it is not a solid reflector?


texts: I am a freshman in high school who is planning to build his own recumbent tricycle.  However, I would be very disappointed if my creation was illegal to ride on bike paths and sidewalks.  I have already perused the Wisconsin State Statutes, and there is nothing that would apply to even a store-bought tricycle.  Is anybody aware of laws from other states covering tricycles, so that I may be aware of them before I start building?


texts:
With my previous bike I followed the general recommandation for maintainance of drivetrain.

This usually goes like the following: replace chain every 3K Kms, replace rear cassette every 6K Kms and after 22K Kms I replaced the chainring as it started to show shark fin teeth.

I am asking what is the most effective method to maintain the drivetrain, does the above procedure which involes quite a bit of money and labor ( not to mention that I have to get my hands dirty with grease in the process ) or simply use the drivetrain until starts malfunction at which point simply replace all the parts: chain, cassette and chainrings?

Supposing that first sign of malfunction would appear after 11K kms ( half of what I got with previous method ), I could replace the wholedrive train and get another 11Kms at lower cost, not to mention that I don't have to get my hands dirty and I do the procedure only once compared to seven times.

Would the approach work? If so, why do get other recommandations in media, books, etc?

Edit

I feel that one can answer the question if we could somehow look at a chart that plots the performance of the drivetrain compared to the distance used. As some suggested performance would include power transfer efficiency, probability of hazards, noise, shifting, etc.

As I see it chain skipping has a high probability of hazards as it could fall of and cause the rider to crash, so that would score something like 9 out of 10 for probability of hazards while a new chain would still score something like 1 out of 10 ( there are chains that brake brand new ).


texts: Is it Ok to lock or unlock my suspension fork while riding?

texts: When I need to switch the suspension fork, should I stop before switch?


texts: My rear wheel can move about an inch when the brake is completely locked. The movement is in the connection between the hub and the disk. As you can see in the picture below, the disk is held to the hub by 6 bolts and there seems to be another piece of connector metal between the screws. This connector piece with the screws seems to be moving with the wheel while the brake rotor does not. You can see a video of the wheel moving here https://streamable.com/g6k0ci. I'm wondering if this play is normal, or if the bolts are just not tight enough. The rotors are Shimano SM-RT66, 180mm, and it is on the 2021 Nukeproof scout 290 comp https://nukeproof.com/products/2021-scout-290. Thanks.


texts:
I'm looking to buy an affordable bike for routes like Stanley Park in Vancouver. Something comfortable to ride on both paved and unpaved routes.
Thanks in advance!


texts:
I have been experiencing some issues with my rear derailleur. I played around with it quite a bit to adjust it correctly. Finally after giving up, I took it to the shop and the guy showed me that the rear derailleur is bent, plus the chain is stretched. So, I am considering changing it along with the chain.

I need some recommendations, not necessarily on the exact model, but the type of derailleurs. The person at the shop recommended Shimano Deore. But I noticed that these seem to be for mountain bikes. My bike is more of a hybrid (if that is what it is called) La pierre Shaper 100.

Would regular road bike derailleur's work? I use the bike mainly for commute (36kms/20miles daily).

Would really welcome suggestions, thoughts, etc?

Thanks

Edit. Down the line I might consider changing the rear cassette from 8 to 9, or maybe 10, will the front derailleur have to match up with the new cassette at the back and the new rear derailleur to make sure each gear in the front has a big enough range for gears at the back without the chain touching the front derailleur?


texts:
I purchased an old bike and I can't quite find out which brand and model it is. I know it has an Aluminium Kinesis frame , which is pretty light . The bike weights about 9,5kg with the bottle holders and the bike saddle bag on.

It has the Shimano FC-1056 crankset, Shimano BR-1055 brakes , Shimano 5500 front derailleur,hubs and Shimano Ultegra RD-6500(I broke it , got a new model) with Shimano ST-6500 brifters.

The headset is Apollo , stem UNO Kalloy , handlebar Modolo 6QEven. The frame looks to be in a perfect shape , no bents , no scratches.The rims are Mavic CXP 30. The bottom bracket serial is : K(or H)25200227.

Here's the album : http://imgur.com/a/91iba

P.S After all the help I got from BikeWrench (which I appreciate), I decided to try my luck and search for the bike model. After 2 days of seaching, I didn't find anything. P.S.S Sorry for my english. Not my native language.


texts: What format should I select for automatic upload to Strava?

texts:
I have three choices of file format to use for automatic uploads from my device to Strava: GPX TCX FIT.

Which if these will provide the best data? Are there other issues that distinguish them — such as accuracy or file size — that I should consider?


texts: Why does the Tour de France have a minimum weight limit on the bicycles?

texts:
Why does the TdF have a minimum bicycle weight of 6.8kg? Does it act like the F-1 limit on engine specifications in an attempt to reduce the role of technology and cost expenditures? If this a UCI rule is it one specific to TdF, or does it apply to all UCI races?

Followup question: How has this weight limit changed over the years? I assume it gets reduced every couple of years as technology progresses.


texts: What steps to take to replace bike frame

texts:
I've always known my bike frame was too big for me. I got a great deal on the whole bike when I bought it seven years ago. It was an S-Works, probably from the '90s, with all Ultegra gear in great shape.

I find myself on my bike more every week, and the size is beginning to cause me aches, as I'm too stretched out on the bars and have a serious hunch. Getting a new bike or replacing this frame have been on my mind now for months.

All of my components are in okay shape. I'm semi-confident that with some time (and some help) I could move them to a new frame. My concern was that this new frame might not be compatible with my components. Some things, like the shifters, I'm not concerned about. But I am concerned about things like the wheel and bottom bracket.

So my question is, what are the main compatibility issues I could run into with putting old gear on a new bike frame and how can I avoid them?


texts: How do I prevent disk brakes from squeaking in the rain?

texts: When I got my new bike with disk brakes, I thought that they would perform much better in the rain.  While this is true, they still squeak quite loud in wet conditions, which is quite annoying.  Is there a certain type of disk brake or brake pads which perform better in the rain and aren't so loud?


texts: Can anyone advise on the best way to motorise a bicycle apart from electric motors? I think I would like to fit a small two stroke engine.


texts: One of my bikes has "rollerbrakes" (commuter bike). When I brake very gently, they work silent. If I squeeze the brakes a liiitle more, I hear a terrible metal to metal screaching sound. It makes pedestrians jump out of the way, which is an undesired side effect (well, most of the time). Should I adjust them? grease them? replace them? ...


texts: This bike has no serial number, I've looked it over thoroughly. Nothing on the bottom bracket, nothing on the dropouts. I don't expect to find out the exact year but seems there should be a way to narrow it down based on the components. I haven't been able to find many JC's with this particular fork (rounded top as opposed to the flat top). I haven't yet found information on what years skip chains were used but this bike has one.


texts:
I would like to know if it is worth and possible to upgrade a 2013. Trek Mamba from a 3x9 to a 1x11.

Rear hub: Formula DC22


texts:
I'm not a big expert, so forgive me if I use some terms wrong (especially because I'm not a native English speaker).

I have a MTB with V-brakes. I wanted to tune the rear brake because it looked like the pad were working asymmetrically (with the right pad being closer to the wheel). What I noticed, though, is that the whole brake tends to "move" to the left, where the noodle is. If I pull the whole brake to the right with my hand then pull the lever, the right arm gets pulled while the left one stays almost in place; when I release the lever, the right arm stays in place and the left one gets away from the rim. After that, pulling and releasing the lever seems to affect only the left arm - with the right pad staying quite close to the rim, to the point that the wheel is always braking.

In short, if I understand it correctly, the brake arms should look like a V ( \ / ) and become parallel when pulled ( | | ); instead mine look like this ( \ | ) when released.

The bike has fourteen years and a couple of accidents on its shoulders (one affected the rear wheel, but I had it repaired at a shop, and AFAIK the rear brake was unaffected). Is this problem due to bad tuning? How could I fix it? Or should I forget about it and get a new brake?

Thanks!


texts: The ceramic pistons on my brand new BR7070 brakes won't depress at all even with quite a lot of force. There is also a subtle grinding noise when trying to depress the pistons. Did I somehow crack the brand new pistons? How much force does it take to depress these?


texts: smallest cog of cassette rubbing on seatstay

texts:
I built up a NOS late 90s steel frame with a similar era Campagnolo Chorus 9 speed groupset. Has gone well, except the stays/dropouts don't seem to quite like a 9 speed cassette. The second smallest cog (14T) rubs a tiny bit and the smallest cog (13T) rubs a lot, so as to be unusable. I've set my limitscrew to keep me off the smallest cog and have done lots of km that way, but I'd really like to use the smallest cog and am trying to work out how. I tried swapping the hub spacers, but on this particular hub, that would have moved the dish way too far to the side. So basically I'm trying to figure out the cleanest hack (bonus if it's cheap as well) to get the full cassette usable on this frame.

I've attached a picture for clarity.

Oh also, OLN of the hub (a fulcrum racing 7) is 130 and it fits without trouble, but given the age, it's possible it was originally a 126, though I think the paint job is original so perhaps not (I took off the paint around the dropouts, when I, er, discovered this problem).


texts: Shimano R7000 front derailleur height adjustment

texts:
I’ve been getting a little bit of chain rub on the extreme opposites but that’s to be expected, however when looking at the front derailleur this morning after a quick clean, it appears it may be higher than it should be.

I can get a 5mm hex key between the front chainring towards the back end of the front edge and 4mm towards the front edge.
Should I lower this ? From what I read around on the web the normal is around 2mm.
I can change between chainrings without dropping the chain so would I gain anything by lowering the front derailleur, apart from maybe a headache of adjusting the cable position.

If someone could tell me what the top bolt does also it would be appreciated.
I haven’t touched anything with this since bought about 6 months ago so it probably could do with some adjustment but I can’t see how the height would change so it must have been that height from new out the shop.


texts: What differs between the Cervelo S5 and S5VWD

texts: Looking at the Cervelo S5 series there are two different models but the Cervelo page offers no mention of what differences are.. could someone enlighten me? Looking just at the framesets is there a difference?


texts: Why do the front and rear brakes work independently?

texts: Why do bicycles have two individual brake levers that work independently to brake each wheel? I've always used my right brake lever because it is more comfortable to do so and I haven't noticed any difference between the two.


texts:
Some area requires you to dismount your bicycle. So what is the exact definition of dismounting your bicycle?

Can you just simply dismount from your bike seat, but keep one foot on the pedal to propel the bike forward?

Or do you have to completely dismount and walk the bicycle?


texts:
I just got this bike, and put it in the classic "aggressive position".  I also ran out and bought spandex.
I was just wondering if there are periscope style mirrors I can fasten to the down tube so that I can actually see forward while I am trapeezing?


texts: Road bike raises my heart rate more tahn my MTB?

texts: I own a HRM that I use during most of my rides and I noticed that I manage to push myself to the limit when I ride my road bike but not with my MTB. My max HR is always higher with my road bike, my average HR likewise. Is there an explanation for this?


texts:
I've seen a lot of teenagers riding BMX bikes recently.

It seems that most if not all of the guys I've seen riding their BMX bikes around the streets, car parks, local parks, etc have a frame that's really small, and a saddle that's as low as possible.  It looks like the rider's knees are above their waists for much if not most of their stroke.

One of the local parks has a dedicated BMX track with actual racing taking place on it.  When I watch those guys they never seem to have their saddles all the way to the bottom.

The thought occurred that it might have something to do with trick riding but none of the kids with bikes set up like this seemed to actually be doing tricks. They'd just be riding the bikes normally or even just sitting on them outside shops. Their bikes also didn't seem to be set up with trick riding in mind, most of them didn't have those bar things projecting from the wheel hubs for the riders to stand on.

Is this really low saddle something they're doing to be cool? Or are there some real tangible advantages to this seating position?


texts: Front shifter has three positions, but front chainring is only double. Is this a problem?

texts:
My Merida Cyclocross 3 bike has a double chainring at the front. After a few weeks of being a little annoyed about the awkward shifting when going up steep hills, I realized that the front shifter and derailleur actually have three positions. This means I basically have to shift twice to properly move the chain on the front chainring. If I only shift once, the derailleur ends up in some kind of chain rattling limbo state until I shift again.

Is this normal? If not, what should I do about it?


texts: MUnicycling tips: Which tricks to practice to improve mountain unicycling performance

texts:
I recently bought a unicycle with the purpose of riding mountain trails. I live in Patagonia where there are plenty of nice mountain trails and I used to do a lot of mountain biking there, but temporally (next 4 months) I am living in a very flat city with no mountains.
I can unicycle well in the city on paved flat surfaces, but I would like to get the skills needed to Municycle when back home. The best would be to practice in irregular trails, but even parks around here have all trails paved.
So far, from other forums I got these tips I can practice here:

Learn bunny hoping to be able to go over bigger obstacles.
Learn to ride with one pedal to be prepared in case one of your foot looses the pedal (seems to be frequent...).

And that's it. I haven't found any unicycling tutorials focused on mountain unicycling.
I am looking for more tips from experienced riders.

What would be the most useful skill needed for mountain unicycling (that could be practised in flat land)?
What is the best riding position? In videos I see most people riding with one hand in the saddle. which one is best (for a right-handed)?


texts: Which is better, single speed or three speed? I am 45 and buying an adult trike because I never learned to ride a bike when I was younger.  I don't know if I get a single speed or three speed?


texts: Multimodal - Packing a bike for a trip with several different transport stages

texts:
In few months we are going to visit Japan to cycle the 88 Temples pilgrimage there, and therefore we want to take our bikes with us.

Neglecting the transport from home to the airport, I will need to carry the bikes first on the plane, and then from the airport to the starting point, either via train or bus, with the constraints that the bikes must be covered and shall not exceed certain dimensions, else they won't be ammitted on the transport (and the train/bus crew is very strict on the size fitting).

I booked a direct flight to minimize handling at airport, but still I am not able to decide among the various options for packing them (taking for granted that the bikes will have the wheels removed and tightened to the frame before packing):

Use two hard bags:

Plus: good protection of the bike during the flight

Minus: hard to store for the flight back, rather expensive, won't allow usage in-between in case we decide to take train or bus
Use two soft bags covered with Fragile labels

Plus: lightweight and easy to carry along, less expensive than hard bags, can be used also for taking the bikes on the train or bus no matter when it happens during the trip

Minus: do airport operators care about "fragile" bags?
Use cardboard boxes

Plus: they come for free, good protection

Minus: likely single use only, where to find a new pair of boxes in Japan (both bikes are XL, not really the common Japanese size),  won't allow usage inbetween in case we decide to take train or bus.

Talking with a friend who is often travelling on airplanes with his bike along, he always used a simple home-made soft bag with no labels, which led only to a bent derailleur gears after several trips. In my case the derailleur gears will be protected by the dissasmbled rear wheel, but I am still concerned about the carbon fork, which is not really keen to take strange impacts.
Another one told me he found a kind local who accepted to keep his cardboard box at his place for the entire lenght of the trip, but I'd rather not count on lucky meetings to plan this trip.


texts:
The threads on both cranks got busted due to putting the wrong pedals by the shop (here is my post with details) so I need to find replacement. How to find compatible cranks? My bike is Carrera Gryphon Hybrid 21" frame, 16 speeds, cranks are FSA Tempo, arm length is 175mm. The bike was sold by Halfords in 2012 but I couldn't find the technical info they gave me back than so these are the only details I know right now.

What else (other than the arm length and the 2 rings) do I need to look for? I tried looking for the part IDs online (A2F0953410 and A2F0964132) but nothing came up. Another ID I see printed on the back of the cranks is "CK-200-1 D" and "CK-C200". I tried searching for these but the cranks I found did not seem to be of the same type or size.

Here are photos of the backs of the cranks (photos of the fronts can be seen at the above link):

Can you point me to compatible cranks?

ps. I now realise that I haven't tried to look up the QR codes on the cranks - will try to do this tomorrow but if you have any suggestions in the meantime - please let me know.


texts: Realign the cassette gears after removing the rear wheel

texts:
I took out my wheel for a puncture and when the wheel went back on the bike the gears were out of line, a lot of skipping and jumping. What is the best way to get them back in alignment (must be possible at the road side)?

Is there a tip on how to reinsert the wheel so it stays in alignment? Or is it a case of getting the wheel back in and adjusting the derailleur to realign?

(On a road bike with tiagra rear d)


texts: How to read the traffic light at this German intersection?

texts:
There is an intersection in my city in Germany where the lights and signs puzzle me.

(click through for a larger image)

I usually want to turn left there. What I suppose should be relevant for me is the sign marked with the red arrow (the text reads: Those turning left should position themselves like that) and the traffic light marked with the green arrow. It is impossible to see at my phone camera's resolution, but from up close, it shows a bicycle and an arrow to the left, like this one:

At first I thought that I am supposed to start ahead when that light turns green, cross the street in front of the viewpoint (FS), then turn as shown on the sign and wait there until I can cross the street to the left of the viewpoint (LS). But the light only turns green for a very short time, maybe 10 to 15 seconds. And during this time, the signal is green for cars coming from the left on the FS, so it is impossible to cross.

Then I thought that I maybe should cross first while the cars' traffic light on the LS is green, then position myself as shown on the sign. But as soon as I have crossed, the angle is all wrong and it is impossible to see the bicycle traffic light any more. If I am directly in front of it, I have to angle my neck up to see it, and that way cannot see much of the rest of the situation on the crossing. If I turn left and go a little bit back, as shown on the sign, the viewing angle is so shallow that I can see the surface of all three colors from the side, and all seem equally lighted, so it is impossible to tell which one is on.

So I now completely disregard that light, cross with the cars' light the FS, then turn left and use the pedestrian's light to cross the LS.

What is the actual meaning of the traffic light, and how is it supposed to be read?


texts: Any help with the History of Guaranty Quality Supreme Fleetwood Bicycle 1963 – 64

texts: Original Goodyear Wing Foot “175” tires hold air with very good tread and no dry-rot.  Wheels marked M.O. MFG. Co. (Murray Ohio Manufacturing Company).  Bendix RB2 Red Band Automatic 2 speed Hub. Union Diamond Tread Pedals made in Germany.  Handlebar Stem marked A.S. - 66.  Fenders and Chain are thick, sturdy.  Very nice Mesinger Seat made in USA


texts:
I have a very nice fixie bike, which I keep suffering from flat tires. I live in Bogota which is a city full of potholes in the road.

I have been examining options to implement in order to have less issues with this flat tires, I got to know this company which is so far the best option I am considering, but it's quite expensive to order a pair of tires just for me, to Bogota.

So I kept checking and I found this videos in youtube 1, 2 and 3 that shows how to do that with a special sealant. Have you tried that in a fixie? Does that work?

EDIT

In more detail:

I suffer a lot of "bite" punctures (so called here) which are two holes in the tube because of a hole or a sidewalk and the rim pressure.
I don't suffer that much of a single hole puncture.
I don't know exactly the amount of pressure, but always that I inflate the tires, are really "tight" you could say.
I ride almost everyday, home-work-home. Each trip around 13km.
I have flat almost once a week. Sometimes once each two weeks.
I inflate the tires at least once a week.
My tires are one year old.


texts: I have a broken my drive side crankarm - what do I need to do?

texts:
I recently had to dash home for a minor emergency. I noticed that one pedal was a bit wobbly but I had no choice but to push on. Once I got home and the emergency had been dealt with I noticed that my pedal no longer screws into the drive side crankarm as the rotating of the pedal when it was wobbly has worn away the grooves within the crankarm.

What should my course of action be? Do I need to replace the crankarm or as its the drive side do I need to replace the whole chain set?


texts:
Some call it speedometer or odometer but I mean the thing to measure velocity, trip distance and such things. When you come up with a usage-case, please, point out the function which you use. The only thing where I may need a speedometer is to know when to lubricate e.g. after every 500km and to know the speed not to break speed limits. So very simple cheap one should be enough.

Not sure about terminology, whether speedometer, odometer or cyclometer. The first ones just return the cheapest units:  ~2.75USD (ebay) and 5.04USD (dx), perhaps Chinese are abusing the language or different English.


texts: Can I ride through unoccupied carpark spaces?

texts:
I got a note from the passing driver for a slow driving over the yellow marked rectangle that means a car is allowed to be parked there. The place is more like a yard but it is also on a bicycle path. There are no any road signs or marking that would explicitly disallow the bicycle traffic there in a way I would understand.

I was not seeing the motorist because he was right behind me.

Should I drive around this marked rectangle or should the driver wait till the place he wants to put a car is free, if multiple bicycles are passing? The location is Switzerland if matters.


texts: What Innertube is needed for my Schwinn Men's Volare 1200 Bike, 700c, Grey

texts:
I thought I purchased the right size. Two times I have gotten this wrong.
Can any body point me in the right direction? i was hoping to find some on Amazon. And it is so confusing...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0IN13K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


texts:
I'm very much a novice when it comes to mountain biking. By novice I mean I have absolutely no experience of this. I have two questions

Are there any trails within commute from Manchester that are suitable for novices?
Is my bike suitable for trail work?

I find the bike is very hard to control on the trails. I'm constantly fighting with the bike to keep it on the trail. I could hear the back wheel constantly being tortured. This bike was serviced by me under supervision of a qualified bike mechanic @ a bike repair class. However I found the brakes aren't really that effective on the trail.


texts: If I bend my torso toward the top bar, lowering my center of gravity, will that alone help my bike go faster?


texts: What initial improvements can I make to a Schwinn Sidewinder?

texts:
I bought a Schwinn Sidewinder from Walmart last night in a desperate attempt to get some exercise.  I took it home and rode intensely for an hour, it was fantastic!  I may be wrong, but I see bicycles as modular and upgradable and am hoping some of you might have thoughts on some initial upgrades that I could invest in (i.e. seating, tires).

I saw this question ( How can I get started riding without spending a fortune (too much)? ) and the very first comment was a bit disheartening "Wow! $500 is a cheap bike...".  I hate to say it, but where I come from, people might buy 5 bikes for $500!

Assuming I'll spend $50-$100 over the next year, what kind of upgrades can I consider?  Keep in mind I'm a penny-pincher, but very enthusiastic and wouldn't be adverse to finding parts at a Goodwill or other consignment shops.


texts: Purpose of locknuts+adjustable nuts on sealed hub bearings

texts:
What is the purpose of these locknuts? How tight should they be?

EDIT: I'm asking because even if I remove all the nuts from the axle, leaving just the axle and the bearings, it still won't have any play, and it will turn just the same. The axle won't slide out.

How much to tighten the inner nuts (the ones touching the bearings) against each other (when they don't seem to make any difference)?


texts: What is the deal with serrated/non-smooth rim sides on a bike wheel?

texts:
I recently decided to replace the rear wheel on my road bike since I couldn't disassemble the old Helicomatic freewheel

I now have a new rim, which oddly has slightly serrated sides (I'll add a picture tomorrow), while the original wheel was smooth. As a consequence, the rear brake doesn't create a lot of friction which I think is dangerous.

However, the seller insisted that the wheel was meant for rim brakes. Am I being lied to or what do I need to do to get proper brake grip on the rim?


texts: Why would tube patch sometimes peel off with backing?

texts: Sometimes, when patching a tube, the newly placed patch will peel off when removing the backing. Sometimes I have this problem and sometime I don't and I'm not sure what the difference is. Is it the age of the glue/solvent? Not sanding enough? The temperature? The amount of time I'm waiting for the glue to dry?


texts: Front wheel requires weight for traction: is this applicable to icy conditions?

texts:
How is cornering on the road different than cornering on dirt?
Is cornering in snow any different?

I usually attempt to keep at least half my weight on the front wheel for stability when cornering and braking.
However, with all the ice this winter, I discovered that front tire slips are quite ordinary. Thus, I find it beneficial to keep my weight back, maybe only 20% on front wheel, and stay ready to dab in the event of front tire slip.
Is this reasonable behaviour on ice or am I being too scared and actually decreasing my stability by pulling back? Tires are Land Cruiser, saddle height is lower than typical XC to facilitate ... falling from not so high.


texts:
I just bought a Surly steamroller frame and I am about to mount my bike.
I would like to know the tightening torque related to my frame or other components of my bike that is recommended by Surly.
But I couldn't find these information on their website:
https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downloads/Surly_Steamroller_Frame_Sheet.pdf
For instance, in the following generic manual instructions, they mention -- at the end of page 3 -- a Fastener Torque Specifications given in Appendix D but it doesn't exist...
https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downloads/Standard_Bike_Manual2011.pdf
Where can I find these ?


texts: Options for replacing a 7 speed Shimano cassette / chain

texts:
I would like to replace my 7 speed HG70 cassette and chain. My problem is that it is increasingly difficult to find quality parts for 7 speed system.

My bike is a Trek 970 from 1993, originally with Deore XT / DX system.

Last time I changed I could bought a 7 speed HG70 12-28 cassette and a HG70 chain, but now these are super rare and are only possible to find on eBay for NOS prices.

What I would like to ask is that what are the exact steps and parts I need to change if I would like to upgrade for an 8 of 9 system, as mentioned by Sheldon Brown? Other than buying a 9 speed cassette, a 9 speed chain and a 9 speed rear shifter, what do I need to buy or fix?


texts: Is cycling on this 35mph road too dangerous?

texts: I'm thinking of bike commuting to work and there is a stretch of road with no sidewalk and 35mph speed limit.  Is this too dangerous for biking?  I'm not in the best shape so I can't go very fast. This is Hawaii in the United States.


texts: Can i set up a 7speed gear and disc brake on hercules rocky mtb 2.0 cycle

texts:
My cycle is a non gear cycle .Can i set up disc brake and 7speed gear.

[![ this is my cycle ][2]][2]


texts: Why am I not seeing improvement in my bike split time?

texts:
My training went up significantly between half-iron events.

There was improvement in the swim and run. But no improvement in the bike...

In fact I could say I did worse because there was little wind and I used aero-bars and saw the same time for the bike. Not sure why I would not see improvement on the bike.

In my first Half Ironman I did:

swim 43:00
bike 3:00:00(much wind; no aero-bars)
run  2:30:00

Training:

I biked only 5 times that year,
ran 3 times and
swam maybe once a week for a number of months leading up to this.

A year later(same event course):

swim 37:00 {6 min improvement}
bike 3:00:00 (no wind; used aero-bars) {no improvement}
run  2:00:00 {1/2 hour improvement}

Training:

Completed 5 full marathons between previous Half Ironman and this one.
Swimming was a little more and under good instruction.
Biked at least once a month and then some come this event.


texts:
I have a Trek 7.3 with 700x32cc tyres. I've been offered a set of SKS mudguards that are 35mm wide. These are only going to be 3mm wider than my tyres and I'm worried I'll still get a lot of spray off the sides?

Thanks!


texts:
I am a beginner cyclist.So ,I want to know which things I have to do regularly.And what will be the time interval ?

Example :Pump,tuning etc.


texts: Pain on bottom foot when freewheeling for a time in a gravel descent

texts:
One of my favorite touring routs is on a rural route. It is 15 km* long, I take about an hour to complete it since a part of the first half is sandy and I need to dismount to traverse it.
At the 10 km mark there is a steady descent which is mostly between gravel and crushed stone. I don't pedal and slightly press the brakes so that I keep a safe speed between 20~30 km/h. It takes 3 min until the terrain is level again.
The thing is: After the 1st minute I start to feel some discomfort in my left foot, which is the one corresponding to the lowest pedal — for some reason I have better balance if my left foot is in the down position when coasting, and even though I want to exchange the position, I don't want to relinquish balance. After the 2nd minute the discomfort gradually becomes a light pain, and when the descent is over I am glad I can pedal again, which causes the light pain to quickly go away.
Is that discomfort and pain I experience on the down foot something expected or known between cyclists?
As far as I know I am healthy and otherwise experience no trouble when cycling, though I am no "serious" rider either, rather lazy on maintenance (e.g. no clipping pedals or special clothes, never wash my bicycle, no odometer or any GPS whatsoever, ...). I wonder if it is because of the constantly shaking on the gravel descent and the left feet having to absorb it or something else.
Further info: My saddle height is appropriately set, namely knee is only slightly flexed when my feet is in the down position. The air temperature is totally comfortable (25 °C). Shoes are definitely not tight. If I can give any more useful information, I'll be glad to edit the question.
*Time, distance and speed are all to my best estimate, they are not totally accurate.


texts:
I currently have a 27.5 hardtail mtb. I use it for commutes and traveling rather than trails or downhill tracks. I'm planning on upgrading some parts and one of them is the stem.
Will a -17° stem have some benefits or help and improve my riding? Given that I only ride on roads and use my bike for commutes? What can I gain from using a negative stem?


texts: Which way do I orient my bike tire's tread direction? and why?

texts:
I have a mountain bike tire that has stamped on the side something like:

<----------front   rear------------->

Which seems like a pretty clear indication that the tire should be oriented in one direction when used in the front, and the opposite when used in the rear.  Is that right?  This is counter intuitive to me - I would have expected tire tread to face the same direction on both wheels - like cars.

If so, is this true in all cases?  For example, road bike tires with tread to handle rain?

And finally...why?


texts: I commute about 3600 miles a year and I am able to keep my gears adjusted pretty well. I do find that I get a lot of grime from rainy, muddy conditions, and I think I might be replacing my shift cables and housing more frequently than I should, probably twice a year. Would squirting some soapy water thru the housing and letting it dry before adding light oil to the cable housing increase lifetime, or is this not worth the effort?


texts: How do I remove my Campagnolo Veloce rear brake caliper?

texts:
I'm trying to remove my rear brake caliper to put a fender/mudguard clamp on. I've removed the rear nut and I assume the brake should then slide straight out. But it won't. It is definitely a little loose, it will rotate freely and has maybe 1mm of play, but even putting a reasonable amount of force on it, it will not slide out of the hole in the rear frame.

What am I missing? I assume I don't need to unscrew the caliper out of the frame.

Edit: Sorry about my woeful care of this question. I meant to put up some photos and explain in more detail, but didn't get around to it :(

In the end I unscrewed the "rear" nut (closest to the front of the bike) a little and tapped it lightly with a wrench and the caliper did come out. Turns out it was just a very tight fit. Thanks!


texts: Road bike drag decrease with bulky backback

texts:
I'm about to increase my daily commute from 5 km each way to 10 km each way. I've been using a MTB converted to a commuter for years. Given the extra distance, regular evening head wind, and aging body, I'm considering getting a road or cyclocross bike or for better efficiency.

I usually commute with a large backback full of clothes, towel, laptop, lunch containers, etc. My question is, would the aerodynamic gain of switching to a road bike be negated by the backback? If so, would panniers or some other solution be better in terms of drag?


texts: Aluminum forks vs. carbon forks (with aluminum frames) what are the trade offs?

texts:
The all-aluminum frame bike will be cheaper.  The aluminum fork should be more robust and less prone to breakage.  The carbon fork will be more shock absorbing and comfortable.  That's kind of how I see the basic trade off.

Given that I like to ride a touring bike with wide tires (25 to 28 mm) and I use low pressure, I am wondering if I would feel any comfort benefit at all from the carbon fork.  And, should just go for the aluminum one.

Is that how you see it?


texts:
Hey I am about to buy a used bicycle and recently I got offer for Peugeot bicycle. We both do not know the price to agree on...

The question is how to evaluate price of an used bicycle? (where to put the most focus)

The bike:

Age: around 10 years Gears (front and back): Shimano 105 (seems all
fine)
Frame: used but still in very good shape
Brand: Peugeot
Pic:

I guess no more info.


texts:
This year, whilst bike riding, I was stung two times by insects, one time a bee and once by a wasp (most likely; I didn't see it but from the feeling, size and heat of the stung area I can't think of anything else).
After some research on different websites (https://www.roadbikerider.com/bee-stings-and-how-to-deal-with-them-d1/ / https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/1080561-insect-stings-while-riding.html) this has happened to others, though I never heard about it before. I only heard about insects getting into helmets, but my stings were on the lower arm through a longsleeve and the other one on the shinbone.
Now I am asking myself, why/how is this happening? Do insects feel threatened by bike riders and attack them? Are they smashed into riders when there is heavy wind? When going too fast on a bike and "overtake" an insect, do you ride into their sting?
I was riding on a road bike with an average 30 km/h both times with one time heavy headwind.


texts: Changing SRAM Rival brifters to flat bar - which hydraulic brake levers?

texts:
I've got a gravel bike, the Planet X London Road, with SRAM Rival 1x11 groupset.

I'm thinking of converting it to a flat bar.
From what I have read, any SRAM 11 speed shifter should work, as the cable pull is the same, but I don't know how best to handle the hydraulic disc brakes.

Is there a lever that I can just plug the existing hydraulic hose into, or will I need to replace the whole hose from caliper to lever? Is there a specific model of lever I need to get?


texts: I want to get a Cyclone motor to install into my bike. My bike has a 120mm BSA bottom bracket, and the motor is available in Square Tape and ISIS varieties. Are these compatible?


texts: Could you reduce the weight of a Santa Cruz Chameleon down from 12.82 kg to 10kg (2018 model)?

texts:
I am currently thinking of getting my first mountain bike, I have ridden a lot of cyclocross and am used to a 10kg bike but am not that familiar where you could save weight on a mountain bike.

What components would you use to reduce the weight of a 2018 Santa Cruz Chameleon which currently retails at 12.82 kg? I would mostly be riding rough cyclocross races and XC races. I would be purchasing a large frame size.


texts: about one or two years ago my brother has brought this bike home and i am now thinking of restoring it. It has an alloy frame unsure of the size but the wheels are 27.5", feels strong and solid... But i just don't know if it's worth investing in it... hopefully you guys know what it is.  Thanks for your time and help.


texts: Using 11-36t 9 speed derailleur with 11-40t 9 speed cassette

texts: So I've got the shimano altus rd-m2000 and it says that it only supports 11-36t. However, I've seen people on forums say that it's possible with this derailleur. Even it I was wondering if with a derailleur extender I'd be able to run a larger range, such as 11-40 or 11-42?


texts:
I have a small cut in the rear tire on a road Mavic tubeless tire. Is there a way to patch this, or do I basically just have to buy a new tire?

update

So I took the tire off the rim and saw that there was no pool of sealant inside, so I added more and aired it up, it plugged the leak after a little bit, and I've had it sitting with 100psi in it for a couple hours and it hasn't leaked. I'm kinda sketched about riding it, but also don't want to spend $80 on a new tire as this one only has a few hundred miles on it.


texts: What's a good setup for an experienced but rusty cyclist training for his first triathlon?

texts:
I've got my first (sprint) triathlon coming up at the end of July. I need a bike to train and race on. I'm comfortable on both road and MTB style bikes, but haven't ridden on either in several years. I could see myself using either style well after the tri is over. It doesn't seem like I should spring right into a tri bike since that's a pretty specific setup and I wasn't too comfortable on the one I test rode. I've also seen a tri-cross bike that looked like a good combination of a road and off-road setups, though I haven't had a chance to test ride one yet. My immediate goal is just to finish this upcoming race, but I would like to continue biking more afterwards and that may or may not include future triathlons. I've got a budget big enough to put me on an entry level tri or a mid-level road bike. Or should I just go with a generic road bike and be able to get an entry level MTB bike too?

I'm not necessarily looking for a specific make/model (unless there's a hybrid you think I should try), more for what would be the best most practical configuration given my needs.


texts: What is the difference in shifting performance between Campy rear derailleurs?

texts:
During the past few weeks, I've encountered a couple of times the statement that there is no difference in the shifting performance across different tiers of Campagnolo rear derailleurs. I.e., one gets top-notch performance even from their cheapest offering. Supposedly, higher-end derailleurs are more expensive due to the lower weight and materials used.

Is there any truth to this? Is there any other difference between a, say, Veloce and Super Record rear derailleur other than price and weight?


texts: Compatible heart rate sensors for CC-RD420DW

texts:
I purchased a bike computer about a couple of months back; which is a Cateye CC-RD420DW. Now this computer is supposed to provide a cadence and a heart rate monitoring, but the heart rate sensor is sold separately (i.e. Cateye HR-10).

Now I've looked for this heart rate sensor, but it's just too expensive. It costs almost as much as the computer bundled with the cadence sensor itself. Which brings me to My question:

Are there other generic compatible sensors that can work with My computer?

I have a Timex and a Polar heart rate monitor.

Is it possible to configure a different sensor to work with the computer?

Thank you,


texts: Did any manufacturer ever try using more, but lighter spokes to minimize weight?

texts:
Wheels generally used to have more spokes.

As technology improved and markets changed, manufacturers have taken to making wheels with fewer (and often heavier spokes). I've been told this comes at the expense of having a slightly heavier rim to maintain strength and stiffness.

I realize that aerodynamics generally has more impact on performance than shaving a few grams, but I was wondering if any manufacturer ever tried making wheels with more, but finer spokes, perhaps to save on rim weight rather than spoke weight. Was this ever done?


texts: Replacing Spark 720 2015 derailleur + hanger using markings

texts:
Broke my rear derailleur a week ago along with the hanger.

On my Spark 720 year 2015, the old hanger said 142-RWS12 IDS-SL so I ordered a new one from eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCOTT-23528...-/291980522554

Bought a new Shimano XT RD-M786 derailleur from a local shop. Both say "Shimano RD-M786 VLA" in the recess.

The parts fit together but it's clear that the reach of the derailleur will never reach the largest sprocket no matter how the adjustment screws are set, so my suspicion is that I've got the wrong hanger for the frame+derailleur combination, despite the markings being the same as the old equipment. The derailleur can't reach as close to the wheel as needed.

Which is the correct hanger?


texts: What kind of bicycles do they ride in the Tour de France?

texts:
I've been looking at a lot of the coverage of the Tour de France. All of the attention is on the cyclists, and no attention whatsoever on the cycles. Even in photographs or videos, they are so far away, or the bikes are moving by so fast, you can't tell what they are riding.

I know I definitely can't afford whatever kind of bike they are using, and it would be horribly impractical for me to ride one since I'm commuting, not racing. I'm just very curious as to what is the top of the line in terms of bikes. When I look at high end bikes in shops or online I can't tell if they are actually superior or if they are just loaded with expensive gimmicks.

What frames, brakes, seats, gears, tires, etc. are the world's top competitors using?


texts: Could a flat tyre two days later be due to a clumsy service?

texts:
I had my bike serviced on Monday. Part way through the workshop called to inform me that they thought both tyres were perished and needed replacing. I trusted their judgement and gave them the go ahead.

It was fine on Tuesday and Wednesday. Today - Thursday - I got it out this morning and discovered the front tyre was flat. I re-inflated it and rode to work and it seemed fine. But it was completely flat again by lunchtime, so it's a slow puncture.

I haven't ridden any out of the ordinary routes, nor am I aware of having ridden over anything that would cause a puncture. So, obviously, I'm now wondering if the service might have had something to do with this.

I don't want to take it back to the workshop and start throwing accusations around without some evidence. So is this likely just coincidence? Or, if there's a significant chance they might have damaged the tube while replacing the tyres, is there anything I can do to prove it?


texts: Whats the difference between a cyclocross and cyclocross-commuter

texts:
Could someone please tell me the key differences between the what people would call a cyclocross bike and a cyclocross-commuter?

I have seen people saying bike x is not a true cyclocross bike etc.


texts: Is master cylinder hydraulic fluid level critical (Shimano)?

texts: I managed to successfully bleed a Shimano hydraulic brake but used an improvised kit instead of the official Shimano one. Since I used a regular syringe instead of the funnel+plunger system which may guarantee a certain oil level in the master cylinder reservoir when used properly, I was wondering if the oil level is the master cylinder reservoir is critical.


texts: Seat post clamp bracket failure - how to repair?

texts:
I have a Jamis TAXI beach cruiser needing repair. Part of the bracket that is welded for holding the seat post clamp in place has come loose. The frame says T6 6061 aluminum.
I am having trouble finding anyone to weld the piece back on. Can it be repaired without welding? How about grinding the other half of the clamp off and using a new clamp that goes around the tube (OD 31mm+)? How about putting a bolt through the tube for a fixed position (would this weaken the tube)?

Pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2FWGkogtMTbUZkU98


texts: Is there a work around to a presta valve not engaging a tire inflater pin?

texts: I believe that either the schrader adapter I'm using is too long or the pin for the presta core isn't long enough for me to be able to use an air compressor. It works fine with a floor pump since a pin doesn't need to be engaged for air to come out. But in my situation of trying to seat a new tire, a pump won't work. I've been searches to see if there are other valve stem adapters that allow this.


texts: I've found a few places that will put a logo on a helmet (e.g., here), but I haven't found anywhere that will let you fully design the art on the helmet, produce it, and ship it to you. I'm interested in this for some corporate swag. Any suggestions?


texts:
The bleed kit for my Tekro HDC 330 hydraulic brakes did not come with a bleed block. I've seen a 15mm ring spanner mentioned as a suitable alternative, but would prefer to make/buy the correct tool.

What size/thickness of block is needed?


texts:
Hello and thanks for being here!

Can one put 27.5"×2.10 tires (53-584) bicycle tires on the same rims which now have 27.5×1.95 (53-584) on them?

This is the One I have : [code]https://www.mongoose.com/products/excursion-27-5 [/code] with the 27.5" x 1.95(53-584) Tires. The pic is what I want to put on it if possible...


texts: Ever heard of a snapped rear gear sprocket?

texts:
Has anyone come across a rear gear sprocket snapping before? A clean break straight across the diameter. Happened at bottom of hill but not excessive force by any means.

Not new but not terribly old either, used mostly for commuting, as far as I can tell otherwise in good condition.

Unfortunately the subsequent fall resulted in broken elbow and wrist...

Is there anything that might have caused/contributed to this? Should I follow up with manufacturer?


texts: Can I fit a 26x3.5 tire on a 26x4.0 rim?

texts: i have a sondors bike that comes with a 4.0 fat tire. i am tring to find a street tire for my fat boy i only found one and its 3.5 not 4.0 STREET TIRE


texts: Is the plastic piece between the seven gear sprocket and the spokes hard to replace, and how?

texts:
I was given a 21 gear mountain bike as payment for some work I did for a neighbor which had been in his backyard for about a year. Though it cleaned up very well there is one part I would love to replace: On the back rim, there's a plastic piece separating the seven gear sprocket and the spokes. It's pretty beat up.

Is it hard to replace, and can you tell me how? I'm no bike mechanic, but have gotten my hands dirty.


texts:
I have just started using the SPD system.

Having ridden without for years, it's proving to be a challenge and sometimes uncomfortable.
A challenge, because the stop/start through traffic is a hassle clicking in and out.
Uncomfortable, because my left shoe seems to be angled strangely.
Will I get used to the system?
Many thanks


texts:
I have the huffy cranbrook bike I just bought for my daughter she loves the bike but it makes that popping sound. How can I fix it??

I have tried tightening the chain.


texts: Hello  though this might be a good place to ask this.anyone knows this bike?


texts:
I've heard many times from experienced riders that OEM parts (parts that accompany a complete bike) are of lower quality than the exact same aftermarket parts (parts bought separatelly).

Is this true?

The usual justification is that that's the way a complete bike can have a low price so it is affordable.

My judgement says that companies (both part providers and complete bike sellers) would not get into such trouble to save a couple of dollars.

Edit: I'm talking about high end MTB bikes with high end parts, such as http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=bike&t=forks&p=36201 or http://www.bosmtb.com/en/forks/dh/detail/produit/idylle-sc-/5.html and my question regards exact same models.


texts: Removing Magura HS11 rim brake (hydraulic) without quick release lever

texts:
My previous Magura HS11 hydraulic rim brakes had q/r levers, but my latest (s/h) Gazelle does not.
Which bolt do I remove to remove the brake from the fork to remove/replace the wheel and/or the brake blocks?
Can I fit q/r levers to make it easier in future?


texts:
I have an Ultegra 6870 Di2 groupset and I would like to use synchro shift.

In e-tube project, I select Customize, then Shift Mode Setting.

And I have an error message telling:

If SM-BRM1/SM-BRM2/SM-BTR2 is connected, shift mode will not function even if set.

What does it mean ? I can see that SM-BTR2 is the built-in battery, that I have on my bike.

Is it possible to use this function with 6870 ? If yes, how ?

Thank you


texts:
I am about to participate in my first cycling race. The organizers ask me about my expected average speed, presumably for creating suitable groups of comparable speed.

I just started cycling on a racing bike a few weeks ago. I average about 30 km/h on trips of ~80km, riding alone. The race will be 65km, with a similar profile to my own trips.

My question: What speed should I expect to achieve in the race? I presume it will be faster than 30km/h due to slipstream, but by how much? The race has a few thousand participants, so there should always be someone to "hide behind".


texts: My front deraileur needs adjustment after every ride

texts:
I have a Cannondale Women's Adventure 1 that I got this spring and have been riding on local (paved) trails every weekend. I started off riding about 6 miles a weekend and recently have progressed to 20-25 miles in a day.

About halfway through a ride, my front derailleur seems to need adjusting, I have to wiggle the shift knob to get the chain to change gears. For example, if I'm in 1 and go to 2, I have to pull the knob slightly ahead of 2 (between 2 and 3) to get it to change. To go from 2 to 1, I have to adjust the back gears a few times, or sometimes backpedalling will get it to change (but that's hard to do on a hill).

I keep taking it to my LBS (where I bought the bike) and they adjust it so it works fine in their parking lot, but again after riding for a few miles it's messed up again.

I don't know if I'm doing something wrong in technique or if there's something wrong with some piece of the bike, nor do I know enough about what's wrong to find anything that's helpful. It can be adjusted to shift correctly, but that adjustment doesn't stay for very long.  What should I be looking for? Or, could I be somehow doing something when riding to cause this problem?

Some specs on my bike that might be relevant:

Shifters
Shimano Revo Twist Type

Cog Set
Sunrace CSM66, 11-32, 8-speed

Chain
KMC 8-speed

Front Derailleur
Shimano M191

Rear Derailleur
Shimano Alivio


texts: Armor and helmet for ultra-safe commuting (womens size)?

texts:
I'm about to start daily bike commuting again after a long hiatus and want to go all out on safety. My fear of an accident is extreme enough that I am looking into regularly wearing body armor and a full-face helmet just for commuting. When I commuted previously, I felt like I was having near-death experiences on a weekly basis. Anyway, I'd love tips and recommendations on body armor and helmets that could maximize my safety in case of a big crash - especially stuff that comes in womens sizes. I know next to nothing about what is out there and have never done any mountain biking or the kind of sport biking for which people normally use the heavy duty safety gear. Putting on separate knee pads, elbow pads, etc. etc. seems like a huge pain to do twice a day, so I want to find something more like pull-on long-sleeved or short-sleeved top, and ditto for shorts or pants, that has the padding sewn in that I could wear under t-shirts & skort/skirt for summer. And solutions for winter as well. I'd love to get any tips. I'm considering just getting a padded waterproof motorcycle or ski outfit for winter.

Oh, and on helmet safety - are the skate/multisport helmets like Bern safer or less safe than traditional cycling helmets? Could one of those potentially be a better choice for commuting than a full-face MBX-style helmet?

A little more info about my commute: I live in Washington DC and go about 4.5 miles each way, and it's fairly steep downhill (going) and uphill (coming back). My bike is a very heavy electric assist model. Because of the electric assist, I don't have to worry about overheating as much as on a traditional bike, and I also have much quicker acceleration from a stop. Biking on my route is fairly dangerous, because cars constantly whip around right turns without even looking whether there are pedestrians or cyclists in the way (hence my many near-death experiences). Due to the heaviness of the bike and the speeds I reach going downhill, braking hard can also be dangerous. In addition, I will also be biking throughout the winter when my homeward leg will be in darkness. I was once rear-ended by a cab, and another time I had a braking problem and had a sidelong collision with a car as a result - thankfully no injuries those times, but given past experience I do not want to take any chances of orphaning my daughter!


texts:
I just asked a different question about a very 90s GT rage road bike I picked up- polished aluminum and all. I might have to trash it and so I'm looking into other frames for the components. The other question is here.

What bicycle qualities and aesthetics scream 90s for y'all? What would go into a 90s restoration project? In my head I see lots of splatter bar tape, polished aluminum or titanium, lots of garish and ugly colors.

I'm not asking for specific frame recommendations, but photos and bikes as examples would be cool!


texts: Looking for a bicycle community in the Southwest US similar to Philadelphia/Seattle style

texts:
Recently relocated to the Southwest United States and I am in search of the type of bicycle culture that uses bicycles for commuting and not just for wanting to beat Lance Armstrong's record. In other words the type of commuter cyclists you would see in Philadelphia or Seattle. Regular everyday people, bohemians, etcetera who are just going to the store, going to work, going to dance class, whatever, on their bicycles without having to ride on, next or near any Interstate, just pure residential street riding from to and fro.

With that understanding, I was wondering if there are any such communities like that in the Southwest. I learned many years ago the mayor of Salt Lake City was promoting a bicycle friendly city. What about that? Is this true? Do we have a Seattle/Philly style bicycle community in SLC?

What about northern Texas? Dallas? Denton? What about Colorado? Anything similar there?

I am already in Central Texas, nothing like Seattle or Philly here, planning on relocating again, but I love the Southwest.


texts:
I am newbie for cycling. I plan to install a kickstand. But where should I install it? In the center of the bike or on the back side? I don't know the technical terms, so you may get my question from the picture.

I mean the center is

I mean back side is


texts: What kind of bicycle clamps are these? I'm hoping to find a specific name because the bolt for them snapped and I can't find it, along with this roundish cylinder thing that used to hold it together; I found a screw that doesn't quite get it snug enough, but it holds it together to take pictures.


texts: Prescription eye glasses and shoulder checks

texts:
I've never had prescription glasses but might like some.

My left eye doesn't focus easily (I ride on the right side of the road, in Canada). If I look over my left shoulder, I can see behind me only using my left eye (the field of my right eye is obscured by my nose). It's hard to see what's moving towards me and how fast, at a glance using one eye, because the edge-detection is blurred.

So I think I want driving glasses which:

Let me focus towards infinity (that'll be the optometrist's job)
Great peripheral vision: so I look through the lens even when looking sideways (i.e. behind)
Other: clear, polarised, rain/snow-resistant, durable.

Can you tell me anything about this? Lens materials, frame styles (with specific examples), or anything else?


texts: What is the name of the part by the right-hand pedal on to which the chain grips?

texts:
There's a part common to all bikes that resides by the right-hand pedal that holds the front sprockets upon which the chain grips?

I'm aware that this part contains the sprocket or sprockets on to which the chain grips. I'm aware that this part will often contain the right pedal arm.

I'm not aware of the name of the part itself. What is this called?

I'm asking as I have one that is slightly bent. I'm looking for the correct terminology to better find out how one might best return this part to its non-bent state.

The part to which I'm referring look like this:


texts: Can I replace my 650c wheels with a more standard size?

texts:
I have a Bianchi eros with 650c wheels. My back wheel was driven into and is now buckled and I am finding it very difficult to replace it without spending hundreds of pounds.

Is there another wheel size that I can use instead of the 650c that will fit on this frame? Or is there a manufacturer that I have overlooked that still makes 650c wheels for an affordable price.


texts: Friction in newly installed bottom bracket

texts:
I could do with some help on a bike build...

I've installed a BB86/92 Trivatuv pressfit GXP bottom onto my Production Privee Shan frame. I used a headset press and everything seemed to go smoothly.

When I insert the crank (SRAM X1) I can hear what sounds like a small amount of friction/rubbing between the spindle and the BB as I turn it. When I tighten the cranks they doesn't spin very freely, maybe 1 or 2 turns.

Finally after fitting the chain, I can't shift into the easiest gear. When I try the friction between the crank and the bottom bracket increases. If I try very hard to change up I can make it so I can't spin the cranks at all.

My best guess is that the bottom bracket is slightly misaligned and when I try to shift into the easiest gear the lateral tension on the crank is causing lots of friction between the spindle and the sleeve of the bottom bracket.

Any suggestions?


texts: Can Garmin Edge 500/510 and 800/810 be charged while riding?

texts:
Extended battery life is very neccesary for using the device on long brevets and multi-day endurance racing.  Can Garmin Edge cycling GPS units 500/510 and 800/810 be charged while riding via external battery pack like or USB dynamo charger?

Can you plug in while riding?  Are only certain devices able to charge the unit while it's recording / navigating?


texts: I have just lowered the stem on my road bike. The headset components might not be installed correctly. Whenever I hold on to the front brake (making sure the wheels aren’t moving), and rock the bike back and forth, I can always feel something unstable. Are there anyways I can fix this problem?


texts: mountain bike freewheel hub stopped rotating

texts:
So I was trying to replace my rear bearings and got stuck, (see question below):

how to reassemble mountain bike rear wheel hub and bearings

After this I felt confident to go ahead.  Was putting it back together with my son and we had it most of it back together (no cassette on it yet).  We put the quick release through the axle and span it, all seemed nice.  I held the freewheel hub bit and he span the wheel (slowly) and it made the normal clicking noise as it rotated.

So we tighted the bits and went to put the cassette back on.  After tightening the cassette locking nut we noticed that it was not rotating.  Tried loosing the cone hubs, nothing, tried taking everything off but still nothing.

I am not sure if I have somehow killed the wheel or there is something I need to do to get it rotating again.

Any and all advice on how to get this working / rotating correctly again would be greatfully received.

Thanks


texts: How to remove non drive side cap on Vision 35 wheel

texts:
There is an annoying squeak coming from the bearing on the non-drive side of my Vision 35 wheel. I had the lbs replace the bearings 4 months ago (the wheel was only 5 months new at that time) at almost the cost of the wheel itself. So to avoid spending more repairing the wheel than its actually worth, can someone tell me how to remove the cap on the non-drive side.

Ive used the 2 5mm allen keys to remove the drive side, but can't figure out how to go the one step further.

Cheers


texts: TdF - Mountain stages without a front derailleur?

texts:
An article on VeloNews about EPO use featured the following photo of Lance Armstrong from Stage 8 of the 2003 Tour de France:

I noticed that Lance does not have a front derailleur. His left shifter has been replaced with a simple brake lever and it appears the front derailleur cable is missing. Contrast this to his teammate's bike (4 cables, both shifters present).

On a flat or medium mountain stage, this setup could make sense as a way to potentially simplify the drivetrain. However, in 2003, Stage 8 finished at the summit of Alpe d'Huez.

It's true that Lance raced using a number of banned substances and pro cyclists are capable of high power outputs. However, given that most (if not all) of his competitors on that day looked to have front derailleurs and that his bike was presumably at the UCI weight limit (set at current levels in 2000) without dropping the front derailleur this seems like a brash decision.

Was this a "Lance thing" or did other pro cyclists do this in the mountains? Are there examples of other pro cyclists going without a front derailleur, post 2000?


texts:
I was riding my bike today and it suddenly exploded. I have attached a picture.
The tube was not over inflated and I haven't been riding on rough surfaces.
What happened? Was the tube or tyre faulty? Do I need to reach out to the bike manufacturer?

EDIT:
I went back to inspect the road closer. In the end, I found what caused this issue. It was a shell, stuck in a crack in the road, which was impossible to see because of the road levelling. I'd say, really bad luck.

I will send my wheel to inspection, and hope I won't have to replace the rim as well.


texts: Is my bike safe to use if cogs and crank is not that aligned?

texts: Hey guys is it fine if my freewheel bike which is single speed is not that straight with its chain line, because my cogs and crank arent that straight but it is also not that far, im thinking if it is already safe to use given that im using a chain tensioner? I have measured the space between them and it is most likely 0.73cm apart, i have a 1by 38t crank and 16t cogs and my bottom bracket is 107mm,my frame is an old style mtb LeRun brand


texts: What's this "spacer" lever on the front brake lever for?

texts:
I made this lamp for my son out of his old Miyata he used to ride all over on.

It was too good a machine to just sit outside and ruin. We never noticed this "spacer" lever on the front brake lever.  When swung out, it adds some slack to the brake adjustment. What's it for?

Question is specifically about the silvery lever outlined in Red, not the mounting stud outlined in Green.

Additional photos to show other parts of the bike for relevance:


texts: What are your country's rules or regulations for the colors of reflectors or lights?

texts:
Many countries have rules or regulations that specify what color your lights (headlights or rear lights) or reflectors must be. What are they?

In your answer, please note the country (and state, if applicable) and link to the regulations if possible.

Related: Reflective tape instead of rear reflector  (Queensland, Australia)


texts: What causes the rear hanger to snap off?

texts:
I have a Specialized Allez Elite road bike, purchased brand new in June this year. So far I've covered around 300 miles in total on it.

During my ride yesterday, as I was going up a slight hill, I switched to the smaller front chain ring. As I did this, I heard a sickening crunch, pedals jammed, looked down to find one of the gear changing parts is jammed into the back chain rings and chain has come off. Luckily I managed to get onto the footpath and dismount without any problems.

I don't know much about bikes so have provided an image of the damage:

Can anyone advise on what parts will need replacing? Also, how can I prevent this from happening again?

Thanks


texts: I removed the drop-out adjusters... Do I need to adjust my derailleur or add chain or both?

texts: I have an old 1998 Lemond Zurich, and I recently purchased new wheels. The old bike had drop-out adjusters. When I added the new wheels I felt like my bike was rubbing against the brakes, then all of a sudden the rear wheel was dislodged and started rubbing against the chainstay. After the ride, I found the dropout pins (adjusters) spring were old and unaligned. I was able to remove the drop-out adjusters, so I'm hoping that fixes the problem and the wheel does not fall off again. However, the wheel sits a good 1 cm further into the drop outs. Could this new position effect shifting? Do I need to add chain links? I'm not interested in knowing why my wheels are falling out, just whether I should adjust my chain or derailleur.


texts: Trigger Shift equivalent to SRAM MRX 21 speed on Btwin Rockrider 5.0

texts: I've a Btwin Rockrider 5.0 which comes with SRAM MRX Twist Shifters (21 spd 3x7). But lately they have been giving me problems in shifting, I've had bad experience with twist shifters earlier also( Shimano Revo), thus I want to change the shifters to trigger shift. Can anyone suggest which one's are compatible with SRAM MRX (21 spd 3x7) shifters.


texts: Difference between KMC Z6 and Z7 for 6 speed cassete?

texts:
What is the difference between KMC Z6 and KMC Z7 for 6 speed cassete?

On KMC site, both of them appear to be suitable for 6 speed bike.

KMC Z7:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/kmc-z7-7-speed-chain/rp-prod51830

KMC Z6:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/kmc-z6-6-speed-chain/rp-prod193013


texts: What is the best way to test out a niche bike when shops rarely have them in stock?

texts:
I've emailed a couple of bike shops about Surly bikes - One in Oakham and one down in Richmond.

The one in Oakham seems to be understocked and the other one is not responding.

The one in Richmond doesn't have the bikes in the store in my size and I believe it is the biggest distributer in the UK.

How can I know if the bike will fit if I can't test one out when the bike is niche and shops don't often stock my size (XL 58+)


texts:
I was searching for information concerning washing the bike with iron-rich water, but haven't found anything so far. The water coming out of my garden hose is naturally rich in iron. I have cleaned couple of times both mine and my girlfriend's road bikes, but I noticed no problem. I was wondering if continuing doing so might have bad effects in the short and long periods. Is there anybody of you having experience with it?

Thanks in advance for the responses.


texts: Replace solid axle with quick release on Fixed Gear

texts:
This goes off a previous question:

Quick Release on Fixed Gear Bike

Suppose I want to replace my solid axles with quick release skewers on my fixed gear bike. Yes, I am aware that this isn't necessarily recomended, but done right it should be fine (i.e. enclosed cam qr skewer, chain tensioner like surly tugnut).

The spacing in the rear 120mm, what kind of quick release skewers do I get? I can't seem to find any with 120mm spacing. Is it simple to buy one that is ~130mm and shorten it? How do you do that?

Relavent links:

http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#qr

http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/704523-quick-release-fixed-gear.html


texts: How to tell how many speeds a wheel is designed for

texts: Let's say I have a freehub wheel with no cassette.  How do I determine how many sprockets it's designed for?  In particular, the wheel in question is a Mavic Aksium.  Looking at the manufacturer's spec page, I don't see anything about number of speeds.


texts: Bicycle access options for a week-long stay in Paris

texts:
I'm going to be in Paris this month for about a week for some conference. My accommodation is about ~15 min away by bicycle from where the conference in held, and for most of the days (say 4 or 5) I'll just be traveling there in the morning and going back in the evening.

Now, I don't have a bike that I'm bringing with me, but I would like to use a bike in Paris. I can...

Rent one
Borrow one
Use the municipal bike share which I've just noticed - Velib

Intuitively I would think the public bike share would be my go-to option. But I'd like to ask the more experienced: Is that really the best options? Would it be cheaper than the other two options? Are the velib stands ubiquitous enough to not add too much walking to my route? Is it customary to use something else?

either rent or borrow I suppose. My question is: In broad strokes, what are the options for renting or borrowing a bike for a week-long stay? Is that common at all in Paris? Should I try to do this through certain websites? Local bike shop? Some other way? Or - perhaps

Also or use some public bike system if one exists


texts:
There's a second hand bike I'm looking at. Photos are here: Giant defy 1 2017.
The seller says it's a giant defy 1 2017, purchased last year. I noticed the stem says something like raceface which suggests to me that it's been replaced.
I found another similar looking one where the seller says it's a Giant defy 1 2016 model. Photos are at: Giant defy 1 2016
I haven't been able to find the exact same model on the giant website.
Can anyone identify  what model is this bike? Or is it a fake?


texts: With a garmin edge touring can I just ride or do I have to do a route?

texts: I'm thinking of getting a garmin edge touring but I want to use it as a map rather than a satnav. Can I just ride and it will show where I am? Or will it always want me to take a pre-determined route? Thanks.


texts:
I recently changed the rear tire and paid no attention to the original working state of the rear derailleur. After a miserable attempt at resembling, I lost what I now think was the Derailleur bolt and nut (one flat side, curved elsewhere) during a short ride. It's since been replaced with whatever nut and screw I could find laying around.

Like the first attempt (with all the original parts still available) at reattaching the wheel, after a hard pedel, especially uphill, the wheel will move from centered. The tire rubs against the frame creating enough resistance to make pedaling feel impossible.

The rear dropout has a small screw hole and a large triangle cutout. I cannot find a configuration that allows the derailleur to screw into the small hole, and so am fastening it using the larger triangle.

Is the placement of the derailleur the problem? Do I just need to turn the nuts holding the axle on a little harder?

after the axle has slipped down:


texts:
my dream is to have a tool that generates profiles like Giro D'Italia:

in which:

we can add text of locations;
we can add the maximum profile signal


texts: Cartridge bottom bracket left cup is too tight?

texts:
Is it possible for the left-side of a cartridge-type bottom bracket to be too tight ?
I followed the tightening torque instructions, and now the axle is not running as freely as when the cup is less tight.

Should I un-tighten it ? Or is it normal that there is some sort of "preload" on the bearings ?


texts: Technical documentation for Shimano FC-M510

texts:
I'm having a hard time finding the technical documentation (equivalent of https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx5hq4cezpdz641/alivio-crankset-service.pdf?dl=0) for the Shimano Deore Hollowtech 1 crankset, FC-M510.

Among others, I'm looking for information about which BB size I should get. Anyone has any info?


texts: Will an 1/8' chain and cogs wear slower than 3/32' chain and cogs for single speed / fixed gear setup?

texts: Will an 1/8" chain and cogs wear slower than 3/32" chain and cogs for single speed / fixed gear setup? What about using an 1/8' chain mismatched on 3/32" chainring and cogs?


texts: Rebuild Gary Fisher Mullet rear derailleur

texts:
I have a Gary Fisher Mullet from sometime between 2006 - 2008. I don't know anything about bike except the fact that I got one Hehe.

My rear derailleur is in pretty bad shape. Well, I don't know for the derailleur itself but the gears are smashed.

I barely use the bike and I don't bike that much at all. But it's summer and I wan't to at least do some runs with it because it is almost brand new.

The derailleur is a Shimano, not sure about the model, but it's the one that came with the bike, so that might help.

I'm trying to keep the cost as low as possible, so I was wondering if I can buy the gears without changing everything, and then go to a bike shop and have someone ajust it ? Or do I need to buy a complete system for it ?

Thank you for your inputs, Greetings.


texts: Want to start cycling, is this a good bike

texts:
I have been riding on a cheap bike from Argos but I want to start doing it a bit more properly. Where I live, there are a fair few cycle paths, etc which aren't very flat. There's a lot of tree roots, pot holes etc.

Also, as I'm a bit of a novice, I can't ride on the road properly. So I want to be able to hop onto and off curbs.

My goal is to compete in a 100 mile race next year. I have been looking at bikes, what do you guys think of this one:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/sirrus-2015-hybrid-bike-ec070673#select

Will this be a good bike to get?


texts: What do I need to know about this rubber stopper?

texts:
I recently bought a used Diamondback Sorrento.  One day I rode it over a sizable bump and heard a popping noise.  Upon inspecting my bike I noticed the following:

As far as I can tell, I lost a rubber stopper that protects the shocks from dust/water/etc.  What exactly is it called?  How important is it that I replace it?  Do I need to worry about protecting the inside of my shocks until I do?


texts: how to strip the paint from a bike yourself?

texts:
How can I strip the paint from a bike frame?
I tried using a sander and it left really annoying scratch marks on the frame.

Is it possible to use a chemical paint stripper to completely remove the paint from the frame?

I do not plan to repaint it after stripping the paint.


texts: Looking for a narrow-cage 16T capacity FD

texts:
I'm putting a 46x30 chainring with a pretty narrow tread on a frame. On the advice of my LBS I got a Sun XCD double FD, but I'm starting to think it's not right for this application. When I have the derailleur on the big ring and far enough out to avoid rubbing, there's razor-thin clearance between the outer plate and the crank arm. And that's just on the stand -- I'm worried that once I'm on it and things are flexing, the crank is going to hit the cage.

I think a narrow-cage derailleur, and maybe one that is designed for smaller chainrings (the Sun is listed at max 56T) will be a better fit. Does anyone have any recommendations?


texts: What should a bicyclist make sure to eat before and after riding a bike?


texts: How do I figure out the right size seat post for my bicycle?

texts:
I found a discarded Mongoose Alta frame with no seat post or seat that I want to refurbish.

How do I find out what size or type of seat post and seat I should get as suitable replacements?


texts: Best sources for inexpensive cycling clothing

texts:
I've been commuting to work this summer and have realized I need to build up my supply of activewear, but have so far been largely turned off by the price.

What are good sources of decent and inexpensive:

sweat wicking t-shirts (preferably nice enough looking to wear on their own)
quality socks, again moisture wicking and possibly with a little extra padding under the ball of the foot
padded cycling shorts
other necessities


texts: What's a good, reliable mountain bike drivetrain (1x10?)

texts:
I'm thinking about switching my Salsa El Mariachi 29er mountain bike from singlespeed to gears. I love the reliability and simplicity of the singlespeed, but I've been doing more rides that involve both road and trail riding, so it's tough to find a singlespeed gear ratio that can do both.

I do lots of really long (~75 mile) rides and some multi-day bikepacking trips through the Colorado backcountry, so I need a drivetrain that is really, really reliable. I'm also fairly tough on components (currently, I replace my SS drivetrain each year), so I want to get something that's not too expensive. I currently am running a bashguard (using a SLX triple crank), and I'd like to keep running a bashguard since it's awesome to have one.

I was thinking of running a 1x9, or maybe 2x9 (with bashguard) setup with SRAM X9 or X7 components. But then I read some great reviews of the new clutch derailleurs (Sram "Type 2" or Shimano "Shadow plus") - people are saying that they keep the chain running lot nicer than the old type derailleurs. I've heard good things about running a 1x10 with the new Shimano Zee derailleur. The many drivetrain options are getting a little ridiculous!

So, what do you think? What drivetrain will keep running through the dust, mud, and crashes, while still keeping the price to something reasonable?

Thanks, Dan


texts: Could I have damaged the bearings/cone when replacing a tire? Front wheel wobbles side to side

texts:
Last evening I installed new tires on my bicycle. The front wheel now wobbles side to side. I notice a small movement about 1-2 mm near the hub/axle cone.

I checked to see if the skewer is all the way set in the fork brackets, also checked that skewer is tightened firmly. The wheel is properly aligned in the center.

After reading this post (How do I know if my cone/cap/bearings need to be adjusted?), I reckon that my wheel's bearings may need to be adjusted/replaced; I recently had my wheels trued at an LBS.

There was no wobble before I changed the tire. Is it possible that I could have damaged the bearings/cones while putting the wheel back?

Inputs on how to avoid this next time are welcome; as I will be changing to wider tires during the winter commute.


texts: Cassette, chainring, chain compatibility

texts:
I've taken on trying to nurse my husband's bike back to life.

It is a 2012 Specialize Venge with Dura-Ace Di2 (very old version); Specialized pro FACT carbon chain rings, Ultegra 10-speed cassette.

It was "repaired" by someone who changed the front chainrings to something that, with a little reading, is incompatible and incorrectly fitted and hasn't worked well since. It also has new Ultegra cassette. I've decided to change chainrings to the Praxis Works Buzz, I now have a couple of questions

Will the Ultegra cassette work with the Praxis chainrings?
If yes, will an Ultegra chain be okay or should I use the Dura ace?


texts: Are there pedals that are both flat and cleated on each side?

texts: I use the same bike for commuting, fast lunch-time rides, and not-very-fast weekend touring. I recently switched from flat pedals to clipless (Shimano PD-M520) but am finding them impractical on my commute - too much clipping in and out, for no obvious gain. I figure a good compromise would be pedals that are part-clipless, part-flat, but all the options I have come across so far (such as the Shimano M324) seem to be flat strictly on the one side and SPD strictly on the other, meaning I'll have to flip the pedal over even when wearing ordinary shoes. Is there a pedal that can be used as a flat pedal on both sides, and as an SPD ideally on both sides too but otherwise on just the one?


texts: What do you do when a bus stops in front of you?

texts: When a double decker bus stops in front of you, what do you do? Is it safe to attempt to overtake the bus?


texts: Front caliper rubbing spokes, should I dish the wheel outward?

texts:
I've a problem with my front wheel.
I have a Velocity Aileron rim (584mm ERD), a Shutter Precision SL-9 dynamo hub(the flanges are not offseted like other disk hubs, but they have a smaller diameter than usual) and 28 Sapim CX-Ray spokes.
I'm using a 160mm CenterLock rotor on it in combination of a flat-mount Sram Force hydro caliper.
I have a carbon fork with a quick release axle.

When on the stands the caliper/pads are correctly centered and there is no disc rub, however the space between the caliper and the spokes is only ~1mm.

Here's a not very clear photo (notice the banjo bolt) :

Under load (when I'm braking while riding), there seems to be some flex and the caliper rubs the spokes.

So the diagnosis I've made is that the distance between the spokes and the caliper is too small, and the symptom is that it causes some rubbing.

Assuming the wheel is correctly mounted (centered and correct tension, I trust my wheelbuilder for now), what solutions do I have ?

We came to the conclusion that I could dish the wheel outward a bit by tightening all non drive-spokes half a turn. Does it sound like a good idea ?


texts:
First time here.
Am thinking of upgrading my '86 Schwinn Peloton's brakes, shifters, and derailleurs with lightly used indexed Tiagras including brifters. I ride the bike so much that I really want to feel safe in traffic and see what lighter, modern components can do for it. I'll keep the original stuff and restore them to the bike if I decide to sell or hang on the wall.

Any problems with my plan that any of you can see out there or is it too much trouble?
Thanks.
JM


texts: Finding bolts to attach mudguard on Trek 4500

texts: I bought a couple of plastic mudguards a while ago but the bolts that came with it don't go through on my Trek 4500 mountain bike. I wonder how to get the bolt specifications for where the mudguard attaches to this bike? Sorry if my terminology is off.


texts: Crank and Bottom Brackets Compatibility for Shimano GRX

texts:
I want to get myself a GRX810 2× but instead of buying the recommended (by Shimano) bottom brackets (SM-BBR60 or SM-BB72-41B Pressfit Hollowtech II) I would like to go with either the Token TF24 or the Token Ninja TF37. I am not sure if they are compatible with the GRX810 Group.

Could anyone help me out here?


texts:
So I took the old bottom bracket out of my hybrid frame, FSA Platinum ISIS Bottom Bracket 68 x 118mm.

I then replaced with a Shimano BBUN55 Square Taper 68 x 11.8cm. Then realised that this was a square taper, not the star shaped of the previous FSA. Now obviously my crankset won't fit.

Happy to purchase another crankset, as mine has 6,000km+ of hard way & I really don't fancy taking it back out again.

Would something like:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-vero-compact-n10-11-chainset/rp-prod129455  fit?

Otherwise, should I take it out and order the correct one? The only BB I can see if the same one, and they only seem to last 3,000km :(


texts:
I love biking. And I also love maintaining my bikes. This is the first time I've gotten a single speed road bike, specifically this one.

My question is, for maintenance purposes, what should I look out for? I've considered getting a truing station, but I'm not too sure that's something I need to worry for a single speed road bike?

Thanks!