texts: Tricycle wheels won't turn when pedaling

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I have a tricycle that I just changed the tubes on all wheels. Went to ride it and the pedals will just turn but not engage the chain or wheels.
Chain is on correctly, wheels are on the same side as before the tube changes and set to the right rotation direction.
When I take the wheel off that should be turning, all the nuts/washers were loose. Tightened them down and still nothing.
Any guidance would be appreciated.


texts: Are v-brake pads compatible with cantilever brakes

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I have a set of Avid Shorty 4 cantilever brakes, well two sets (front and back) and wish to upgrade the pads.

These are centre pull, linear pull brakes and have brake pads which are mounted from the centre, ie the post (which is threaded) is centred in the pad.

Looking for new pads I see that there is a much wider variety of v-brake pads than cantilever pads.  As v-brakes are a subset of cantilever brakes can I use v-brake blocks with my cantilever brakes?  I note these tend to have more brake pad at the back of the mounting post than at the front of the pad.

I would also like if possible cartridge mounted pads any recommendations would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


texts: carbon gates belt drive . need to have lower gears to get up steeper hills. best options

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I'm planning to go on a long cycle this year and that last 20k is up a steep incline. I noticed i had to walk up the inclines that were steep and i thought i would have got a lot further if I had one or two lower gears.
I've got a cube travel pro 2020 (https://www.cube.eu/2020/bikes/tour/travel/cube-travel-pro-blacknbrown-2020/). Shimano nexus 8 speed gear hub.
i'm hoping that i can get a smaller front sprocket and larger back sprocket to lower the gearing ratio ? if so please confirm and if you have more knowledge help on my selecting the right combinations so that they will fit the current belt size. youtube installation videos or anything to bring me upto speed.
Another option would be for me to upgrade to an alfine 11 speed hub. I guess that's a solution, it would help if i could sell the 8 speed hub afterwards. https://www.veercycle.com/blogs/getveered/how-to-choose-an-internally-geared-hub
Thanks,
Pat
ravensburg, germany


texts: Different turning behavior after changing tires

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I recently replaced the both tyres on my tourism bycicle, going from a semi slick pair to a threaded pair, but keeping the same size, 700 x 28c.

The semi slick I had were these

while the new I have are these

Since then I have noticed a different behavior when I bend to turn.

While with the old tyres I had to "push in the curve" to keep the bike into the turn, with the new tyres I have to "pull out the curve" to keep the turn. In other words, with the old tyres the turning bike had the tendency to go back straight, while with the new tyres it has the tendency to close the turn.

Is this normal and will fade with some wear of the tyres, or do different tyres affect the bike dynamics?


texts: Is there a roadside workaround for a freehub that won't engage reliably?

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I had a lucky escape from a long walk on Saturday: 50km from home or 20km via a train, my freehub suddenly wouldn't engage - the pedals span as freely forwards as backwards.
I tried dropping the back end onto the ground to try to shake things loose, spinning the pedals hard both ways, etc. and had just given up and started scooting towards the station when the hub started clicking, so I checked and it worked - most of the way home. If I kept the pressure on it stayed engaged but struggled to re-engage; luckily when it gave up again I'd reached  rolling terrain so I could walk up and roll quickly down.
When I opened the freehub body, it had more mud than grease in it, and the balls look corroded though I won't be sure until after some more aggressive cleaning.  I haven't gone axle-deep in water on that wheel, and don't use a pressure washer but do use a hosepipe.  The seals were undamaged, and it's a Deore XT, just over a year old.
Is there anything that can be done at the roadside to keep going with a slipping freehub? I have quite a lot of tools, oil, and grease, and I can take the cassette off for access, but removing the freehub body from the hub takes a 10mm hex key (which I don't carry) and opening it takes a custom tool like a giant screwdriver, plus lots of leverage.  Would it have been worth trying to get some oil inside by lifting the seals?  Is there a creative workaround? I tried a friend's suggestion of cable-tying the big sprocket to the spokes and treating it as a very fragile variable-gear fixie, but the first gentle pedal stroke snapped all 3 cable ties at the edges of the sprocket.


texts: Just purchased a Trek Verve 3 disk bike.  Had to take the front wheel off the get it in the car.  Put wheel back on when arrived home and took it out for a spin.  The front wheel makes a rubbing or grinding sound when I ride it.  Thought it was supposed to be a quiet ride.  What is going on?


texts:
As an annual rite, I typically ride in one or more organized centuries and other organized rides. All of those rides usually have a name that exemplify the ride in some way. For example "The Chilly Hilly" or the "Torture 10,000" or "Reach the Beach", etc. Additionally, I travel a bit and attempt to incorporate cycling when possible. So, I'm looking for possibilities for the next time I hit the road.

What is a notable organized ride that you have done, would like to do, or have considered? (A brief description and/or link would be nice as well.) Basically, I can of course google this, but that lacks the element of first hand experience that I feel I can get from this site. For all I know, something like the "Wilson County Wander" might be a superb hidden gem and by googling, it would never bubble to the top.

Since this is an international forum, metric centuries or other organized ride suggestions are also encouraged. (Although I'm not sure if these types of rides are common outside of the U.S.) As an example, I have done rides in the wine regions of the Pacific NW, and theoretically could find myself in wine regions elsewhere at some point.

Adjectives for outstanding could include things like, beautiful scenery, physically challenging, excellent support, etc...

Since this is a CW, only one answer per customer please.


texts: I'm in the market for a cycle computer that runs in cold weather. Does the Specialized SpeedZone Sport Double Wireless ANT+ work in the cold (eg down to 20 degrees F or hopefully lower)? (I just got off the phone with Specialized "rider support" & they didn't know. (Yikes!).)


texts: How do I determine my bike's fork width?

texts:
I have a Breezer Liberty 2.3. I am trying to determine whether it would work with the CycleOps Hammer trainer. The trainer says it is "Quick-release compatible for bike frames with fork widths of 130mm and 135 mm.",
However, I am not sure how to measure that on my bike, and I can't figure it out by looking at the specs page for the bike.


texts:
Hi all,

I've got a Dawes Imperial (Reynolds 531 frame) and the crank arm is loose. None of my standard impact drivers fit. Does anyone know what I need to use to tighten it?

Thanks,
Tim


texts: Where can I find a bulb for my vintage 70's generator light?

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I currently own a 60's/70's vintage light for my bike. I have it attached to my Trek 820 series 26" mountain bike at the moment.

The light worked perfectly fine until one day when I broke the bulb inside. The bulb was marked on the side being 2.5v, even though I know for a fact that the generator on the back wheel puts out about 6 volts.

I have tried several bulbs from Radioshack, and none work or are as bright as the previous bulb inside my Reynold's light. Is there anyplace on the web where I can Find such a replacement bulb? Are there any stores that mint have what I'm looking for? I tried Home Depot also, no luck there...

Thanks in advance!


texts: I am 57 years old, 182 cm and weigh 105 kg. I have been cycling for the past 5 years, mostly with a city bike, Trek 7.5 FX. After a trial of a long distance lasting a week with that bike, I realized what it meant to be more aerodynamic. What would be the best option for me? More of an endurance type or more of a performance type of bike, such as Trek Madone 5.9? I tended to avoid bending forward while cycling too much until now. However, seems that I need to. 56 cm versus 58 cm? Any experience or thought would be very much appreciated. Many thanks in advance.


texts: Why does a Bella cargo bike not act like a car driving in reverse?

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This is crazy you could never make any vehicle have this kinda steering layout. You would imagine that it would be horribly unstable at high speeds +30 km/h. I can't see this being a good idea but it seems to work.

There's a reason why 100% of street vehicles have front steering.
So how tricky is it to drive such a trike?
Could I take a normal trike and flip some stuff 180 degrees and have the same results?


texts: Tips for cleaning old glue from a carbon tubular wheel

texts: I'm replacing the tubular tire on an all carbon wheel (no aluminum brake surface) and cleaning the old glue off takes a long time.  What are some tips, products or tools I can use to speed up this process?


texts: What is this sheet of clear stickers that came with a new MTB?

texts: I just ordered a new MTB through the mail (Santa Cruz Bronson). In the spare parts and accessories bag was this weird sheet of heavy vinyl clear stickers. I can only assume they are for frame protection or something? But I can't really figure out where they fit, and the fact that the two "hook" shaped ones aren't mirror images seems odd to me. I doubt I need then for anything... this is more just idle curiosity at this point, thanks!


texts: Are the side pockets of the Proviz Switch Men's Cycling Jacket - Yellow / Reflective accessible from both sides?

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I'm considering buying the
http://provizsports.com/en-gb/switch-mens-cycling-jacket-yellow-reflective.html
jacket. Its description states "Two side pockets". As the jacket is reversible, are the pockets accessible when worn either way? Or are there 4 pockets with 2 facing each way? The pictures don't make it clear.


texts: Best option to upgrade 7-speed bike to higher gears

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I have recently bought Giant Escape 3 hybrid bike that came with:

Shimano FC-TY501 28/38/48 chainset 8/7/6-speed compatible
Shimano Tourney RD-TY500 7/6-speed rear derailleur
Shimano MF-TZ31 14-34T "cassette"

I find the gears are too low for my needs. I don't use the smallest chainwheel and I don't use the biggest sprocket either.
I thought I could quickly solve the problem low-cost by upgrading to CS-HG41 11-28T cassette but once I got round to removing the block it turned out that the "cassette" on the bike was in fact a freewheel. Bugger!
Apparently Shimano used to make FW726 11-28T freewheel but they are nowhere to be found.
How to solve this pickle? I'm thinking my options are:

Replace the wheels with a set that comes with a 10 speed freehub, since replacing the hub alone would probably be close to the price a new wheelset if you consider the fitting cost and I wouldn't do it myself. Get a spacer and fit my CS-HG41 onto it.
I'm perfectly fine with having 7 gears at the back and this would give me an opportunity for a further upgrade in the future should I ever needed it. It also seems the least fuss option.

Replace the existing triple chainset with a double 34-50T compact or 36-52T semi-compact crankset (e.g. Shimano FC-A070 or maybe even FC-2300 both matching the existing chain and bottom bracket)
The frame seems to have enough clearance for such upgrade but I guess I would have to replace the front shifter and possibly (?) the front derailleur too.

Does it sound like the right approach? Can you think of any other options?


texts: What is the purpose of plastic insert/plug in Deore FD-M590?

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My Deore FD-M590 is missing the instructions how it should be mounted and I would guess like any front derailleur, however what confuses me is little  pink (my eyes) insert/plug which I don't know what to do with it.

What is the purpose of this thing?


texts: Cheap, effective degreaser recommendations?

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Maybe it's just me, but most of the commercial degreasers sold in bike shops seem pretty expensive for what they do.

While they work well for lightweight grime, especially when used regularly, they just don't cut it when it comes to cleaning off months' worth of caked-on road grease and filth. Lots of time and elbow grease required (or a stiff brush, which can damage the finish on some parts).

Community mechanic that I am, I often end up sorting out friends' bikes for them. Now when it comes to salvaging a neglected bike, there is only one thing that is cheap and potent enough to make my task bearable: petrol (gasp).

Yes, I know. Awful for your skin and lungs, and the surrounding environment, and a stupendously good fire hazard, but it takes off just about any gunk in seconds. I realise that this may just spell death for a nice laquer finish, but I always use it quickly and sparingly, and I've never seen any ill effects to date. A nice rub down with oil and wax afterwards, and the job's a good 'un.

Seriously - 5 litres of petrol is cheaper than 500ml of degreaser. It is also 5,000,000,000 times worse for myself and everybody around me. Without hating on me for being a terrible being, can anybody recommend me a suitably cheap alternative?


texts: Can I achieve good cycling shoe stiffness in winter with a boot insert?

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Background: I ride daily in a very cold climate (Fairbanks, AK). My typical winter riding footwear includes a pair of trail running shoes underneath an insulated (NEOS) overboot, as this is a very warm and  light combination. However, on longer rides or endurance races, I find that I notice significant strain on my calves and Achilles tendons, much more so than similar efforts when wearing cycling shoes. I assume this is due to the lack of stiffness in my footwear. I am sure I lose power transfer efficiency in my pedal stroke for the same reason.

I am considering adding some type of stiff insert (e.g., plastic) in between the shoe and the overboot to address these problems. So here is my question, in two parts:

From an anatomical and physiological perspective, is maximum stiffness of the sole the ideal situation for a cycling shoe in terms of comfort and injury prevention, or is the shape of that stiffness-providing structure equally important (i.e., I realize cycling shoes are not flat pieces of carbon or plastic, but they conform more to the shape of the foot).
From a  physics perspective, will a stiff footbed between the shoe and overboot provide similar power transfer to a cycling shoe, assuming there is minimal movement between the three components of the footwear system?

Note: I do not wish to switch to clipless pedals/shoes on this bike. Even with 45NRTH Wolvhammers or the like, most winter cyclists in my area still require aftermarket boot covers for long, cold rides.

Another note: I am going to experiment with inserts either way, but was interested to see what folks on here think about it.


texts: Is new Hozan spoke thread roller better than old one

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I have tried to use the old Hozan spoke thread roller (model 700), and have been deeply disappointed. I tried to follow instructions provided but all spokes it produced were either with too shallow thread or bent, or the roller jamed, quite often all of the above.

I see there is new model 702 and I wonder if it is more usable than old one. as far as I can see new one has self centering chuck to hold the spoke, and it has new roller heads which are now specialized for only one spoke gauge.


texts:
I'm trying to track down the owner of a Giant bike that I found by the roadside. The frame number on the bottom bracket looks like this:

My interpretation is GX828648, but I'm just a little bit uncertain about the penultimate digit. (The photo isn't great but it's not really easier to see in real life.) Do you agree with me that it looks like a 4?


texts: Can the HED Tomcat wheels be made stronger?

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History

Bought a new Diamondback Haanjo Comp in mid July, 2016.  Rode 220 miles on trails and broke a spoke.  I rode another 190 miles on combination of trails, paved and gravel roads, including about an hour's worth of cyclocross practice on a new course that was rather bumpy, then broke another spoke.

I'm about 300lbs.  I don't ride over or down curbs, and am generally careful, but I do hit some bumps and things harder than I would like on occasion.

I am currently running WTB Nano comp tires in 40C at about 50 psi rear and 40 psi front.

I did contact HED about this issue, and had a good email exchange with Andy Tetmeyer, but ultimately it was just an offer to build me a set of wheels on the side, and no suggestions for improving these wheels.

Question

Is there anything I can do to make these wheels (primarily the rear) stronger?  Can I change the spoke lacing to a 3 cross?  Perhaps changing the spokes themselves to something else?

I don't want to spend money on "clydesdale" custom wheels that cost close to what I paid for the bike.

Am I destined to just get a new rear wheel with 36H or are there other inexpensive things I can try?


texts: Longtail cargo bikes - why no internal-gear hubs?

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I really like the idea of ("compact") longtail cargo bikes, i.e. bikes with a regular frame shape but with an extra-large and sturdy rack for transporting medium-sized loads and persons/kids. Personally, I'd prefer one without electric assist. There don't appear to be many bikes to choose from in this category, I found the ones from Yuba, Xtracycle and Surly. All of these use a classic derailleur-based setup. I think that for such a bike, an internal-gear hub would be much more practical:

In inner-city traffic with a lot of stop lights, slow riders in front of you, pedestrians crossing etc., being able to shift quickly, possibly even under load, would be very helpful
The chain could be partially or completely covered, preventing entangling the cargo or passenger's pants
Less maintenance
Possibility of using a belt drive, even less maintenance

Why are there no longtail cargo bikes with an internal-gear hub? The only reason I can think of is that the ball bearings inside existing IGH's simply can't transfer the weight from axle to wheel, and:

The added weight doesn't matter much for such a heavy bike
Even though more mechanical energy needs to be applied for accelerating a bike with a heavy load, the rider's strength is the same, so it doesn't have to transfer more force in any instant (just for a longer time to get to a given speed as a regular bike)


texts: Is an Acera cassette compatible with an 8-speed Deore rear derailleur?

texts: Is this Shimano Acera 8-speed cassette and chain compatible with a Shimano Deore 8-speed rear derailleur on my mountain bike?


texts: Will a threaded post rim brake pad fit my brakes which take a thread-less post pad?

texts:
I found these pads on Amazon and I really like them, but they are a bit different than my current pads. They are threaded and the ones I have now are threadless. If I tighten them would it fit on my brake?

Here are the brakes I like.

Here is what I currently have.

Is it possible to make them fit? Thanks.


texts: Do the benefits of clipless pedals out weigh any danger they may pose the rider?

texts:
As a newbie rider, I was asked by many experienced riders and bike shop experts if I was using clipless pedals yet?  The implication was you are not really a serious rider until you are clipless, sort of a rite of passage. No one ever told me you can break bones, but told 'everyone' falls a few times, count on it, and move on.

Are there precautions or conditions where one could or should not use clipless pedal products?

The previous year, I had ridden 1700 street and paved bike trail miles on a comfort bike and a Mountain tandem with Pedal Cages and never had an issue.  I incorrectly assumed I was ready to advance.  I purchased a new touring bike with Shimano M540's.

Here is an XRAY of the damage I experienced riding clipless.  It was an unexpected stop due to a flood closing a tame paved trail. Someone had painted a bright blue line from the trail up to where I fell (me standing in the picture).  It was my error in trying to ride around the obstacle and ended in the railroad ballast (2"-3").  I had un-cliped going up but the M540's re-clipped  I stopped at the edge of the ballast but was clipped.  My ankle twisted > 150 degrees. It was my third ride and fall clipless. It all happened in 10-15 seconds.

I know through good friends of two very much younger but very experienced  riders who were hurt much more severely than I due to clipless.

Should I try again with the beginner clips and different pedals, or as my son and wife tell me, are you crazy?

Revisited

Having just rolled over 2,000 miles this year with flat pedals on the road I can report I have found a solid solution for me.  I now ride with "Pin" Pedals available from several manufacturers I use (Xpedo MX Force 3).  These pedals have a grid work of short pins sticking up on both sides of the flat pedals. These pins rather lock my foot on the pedal preventing foot creep or shifting out of position while allowing for quick mount and dismounting as necessary.


texts: How to release Planet Bike fender safety release tabs

texts:
I have Planet Bike Cascadia Fenders and wondered how the safety release tabs work. I recently bought replacements for them:

https://www.planetbike.com/store/products/bike-accessories/service-parts/front-fender-release-tabs-pair.html

I've read that they release "the front fender stays if debris is present in between fender and tire" but am not sure what this means.

Does it mean in the event of a possible crash? That is, the tabs break allowing the v stay to move freely? Or for maintenance? Instead of unscrewing the screws that keep the stay in place, one can somehow release the stay using the tab? Maybe both?

If for maintenance, how does one release the tab? I see no place where one might squeeze and thus release it. I do, however, see two small holes at the angles near the tip. I guess one might insert two small flat-head screwdrivers, push the clip's small teeth inward, and that might release the clip. That seems tricky, though, and not the right way to do it. Still, maybe it is.

The paper insert that came with them shows only how to install them:

https://www.planetbike.com/store/downloads/dl/file/id/47/product/0/fender_safety_release_tab_instructions.pdf

Would anyone know?


texts: Are ultra high racers available commercially?

texts:
In the Hessian woods today I saw a recumbent where the rider was positioned very high; his entire body was higher than any of the wheels.  In this position, he was at least as visible as an rider on an upright bicycle, and more visible that one on a ducking bicycle.  Is such an "ultra high racer" (as opposed to ordinary high racer or low racer) available commercially or may I have been witnessing a custom built / modified bike?

Unfortunately I didn't manage to take a picture, recumbent cyclists are fast :-)


texts: How did my inner tube get folded in a Z inside the tire?

texts:
My rear tire was keep going flat while riding, so I felt around the tire for any punctures or abnormal ‘signs’ that may be causing the problem.
One area felt too thick, and at first, I thought I just overinflated it and somehow the air got trapped. Later, I ended up pushing my bike into the rocks, and when the tire tread came off, I saw that the inner tube had literally folded up into a ‘Z’ shape inside the tire. How did this happen? I have never seen anything like this before.


texts: Derailleur adjustment: front or rear first?

texts: When adjusting both front and rear derailleurs, which should be done first?


texts: Will removing extra chainring mess with chain alignment?

texts: I have a folding bike with 1x6 speed. I plan on making it a 1x9. I saw this crank set and cassette, 3x9 speed, for a fairly cheap amount and was thinking of getting them and installing on my bike. If I were to remove the 2 other chainrings from the crank set, would that mess with the alignment of my chain? Is there any harm in doing this?


texts:
I learned to ride in Toronto, where behaviour such as the following is legal:

  if there is not enough space to share the lane safely with another vehicle, it is legal to ride near the centre of the lane, so that drivers must wait or change lanes to overtake

Is this also true in France?

I asked a french man (the father of a competitive cyclist) who replied something which implied, "no": that cyclists should keep right at all times, and that although groups ride two-abreast, they return to single-file if a car approaches from behind.

I would like to double-check: is it legal, and is it at all customary or is it likely to annoy or cause aggressive driving?

Examples of when I might want to use it include:

In a town where the road is narrow or lined with parked cars
In the country-side, going up a hill with many bends, where it wouldn't IMO be safe for an overtaking car to leave their own lane (which would tempt them to overtake me without leaving much margin)

Cars routinely slow down behind tractors when they go up that hill; but when I was driving (a car) I was surprised to see a cyclist hugging the verge as if there was enough room for me to overtake him safely (I didn't think there was and so I didn't).

Also, is there any legally-required overtaking margin (for example, "cars must leave a gap of one metre (3 feet) when overtaking a cyclist")?

FWIW I understand there is strict liability law in France, which may help, nevertheless I'd like to do whatever it is I should.


texts: Can I replace a GXP press fit bottom bracket with a Hollowtech?

texts:
I've recently acquired a frame for a project and have an Ultegra crank set from my crash bike I want to use on it.

The frame currently has a GXP 24mm press fit BB and I've got a spare Hollowtech BB, a Shimano BB-R60 threaded unit. Can I replace the press fit one with the Hollowtech?


texts: Why do my rear caliper cable becomes loose after some squeezes in the brake lever?

texts:
I have bought this bike one week ago from a friend of mine, and when I checked it, it was clear that the rear brake caliper cable was loose. I could see, under the frame, the steel wire bulging from the lack of tension.

So I thought it was a easy fix, just tension the cable again, adjust the rear caliper and everything works, right? Apparently, no.

After retensioning the cable and adjusting the caliper, with a few squeezes in the corresponding brake lever, the tension disappears and the cable becomes loose again. I don't think the problem is the caliper cable nut, as the cable does not seem to move there.

One symptom it has, is that the lever is much more hard to squeeze compared to the front caliper one. I think that is a problem with the cable/housing, because I have removed the rear caliper from the frame and it does not seem to be blocked or stuck in any way.

Do you think the solution is to replace the cable?

Besides these problems with the cable, I am a little bit concerned that the quick release mechanism of the rear caliper has some kind of issue. It feels very hard to move compared to the front one, and I am actually able to drive it further the locked position (past the two white dots aligned). I don't know if this may also explain the loss of cable tension.

FYI: caliper/levers are 2016 Shimano 105.


texts:
Today I got my new bike pump. It is a two-way pump with pressure gauge, up to 100 psi, that I bought cheaply over the internet. When I tried to pump up my tire (Schrader valve) it seemed to be working, I mean, it pumped my tire. But the problem is that the gauge shows 20-25 psi even if I pump more and more until I can hardly squeeze the tire. Also, when I let the air out, it shows less than 10 psi. So the range is 5-25 psi let's say... On the other hand, when I place my thumb on the pump valve and squeeze the pump, it shows 30-40 even 50 psi (I can't hold it to higher psi range).

What can the problem be? Is it possible I am not putting the pump in the right position when I am pumping the tires?

Thank you in advance!


texts:
I've had kinda of a crash today on my bike. To keep it short, I bumped into a small sidewalk and ended up losing control and crashing into a small wall and went over it (me, not the bike). I was about to get up on the bike when I noticed some damage and eventually decided to go back home (not riding).

As I know 0 about repairing a bike I thought about asking around here to find out what's the best way to fix the damage. Below are some images of a couple of dents in front of the frame and on the wheel.


texts: What process do you use to start a BMX program in an area without one?

texts: i would like to start a BMX program for our local youth. How do you go about setting one up?


texts: Front tyre size - is 1.9" a good option?

texts: I have in my bike a 1.9" tyre in the front wheel and a 2.2" in the rear. Is it safe to use this tyre sizes?


texts: Compatibility issues with upgrading a 1991 1400a Miyata Road Bike

texts:
I've only just started getting into bikes recently, so i'll try and be as accurate and succinct as possible. Apologies in advance if I confuse anyone.

I want to upgrade the wheels and crankset on my above mentioned Miyata with the hope that it will turn it into a leaner, meaner riding machine. I love the bikes aesthetic and frame quality, so i'm willing to spend money upgrading components. (Providing they will make an obvious improvement to its motion)

However, it's current configuration is 700cc Wolber rims, 7 speed Shimano 105 hyperglide cassette, 105 front and rear derailleur, 105 7 speed downtube indexed shifters and a double Sugino VP crankset. I was wanting to upgrade to Fulcrum 5's/Mavic Ksyrium Equipe wheels, with Shimano freehub (or something in similar quality) and a modern 105 (or ultegra, money permitting) crankset. I really would like to keep my cassette and derailleurs as they are, if possible.

So, (using Sheldon Browns 6-11speed article as reference) would I be able to install the wheels on a 7 speed cassette with a 4.5mm spacer without any problems?
Would I also be able to use a 9 speed chain ring (as 7 speed 105 chainrings defeats the purpose of the upgrade, AND they are hard to find) with a 7 speed chain without any shifting problems?

Also, if there is anything I've not considered or if any of you have a better idea of going about this, please tell me. I'm all ears. I just want to make the bike faster.

Thanks!
Jack


texts: Spin doctor Essentials II pump not working properly

texts: I attach the pump head to the presta valve. It attaches properly and even a few PSI, like about 10 psi, go in and then the pump handle just wants to spring up and is very difficult to push down. I can get it to compress but it no longer inflates the tire to any higher pressure. What would cause this? It doesn't appear I can disassemble this pump.


texts:
I am riding 90s road bike with Shimano 105 dual-pivot brakes and brake levers, and 2x7 downtube shifters. Since braking becomes less and less reliable I want to replace both brakes and levers with something new.

There's a plenty of good opinions on 105 br-r7000 but I am having hard time to find matching levers. I don't think there are any compatible shiftless levers. Can I go with cheaper claris shift levers or do I need to pay for 105?

Bonus question: could I use 11 speed 105 shifters to work with 7/8 rear derailleur if I do STI conversation?

EDIT:

First, thanks for so many great comments. I see I have missed some important information:

my goal is to improve braking performance - it feels underpowered and my rear brake lever has a crack already.
I have already replaced cables, brakepads (swisstop) and my bike is running brand new wheels (frame was cold-set to 130mm)
fit 28mm tires

From what I have found, here are some interesting brake / lever combinations:

Shimano BL-R400 ($35, brake levers, no shifter, SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)
Claris: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR)
Claris+105: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)
105: ST-R7000 ($185, SLR-EV) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV)
SRAM S 500 ($75 brake levers) + SRAM Rival 22 brake ($75)


texts: 5~10mm rupture (crack) on my tire - should I replace it?

texts: This is on my rear tire. I ride about 100 miles a week and the tire has been fine. Will this lead to a blow out?


texts: Adding pedals & training wheels to this balance bike?

texts: Is there any way to add pedals & training wheels to this balance bike?


texts:
Does anyone know the age of this Legnano Bike?

The frame number reads FC670

Thank you to everyone thats replied.

I now nothing of the history of the bike or Legnanos in general tbh and certainty wouldn't know about originality of it. The crank is a double ring, which is manual to change which I've not seen before. 60's frame with 70's bits maybe??


texts:
I had a serious accident, my fork suddenly snapped when riding.
I sent my bike for repair (to get a new fork installed) and the guys at the shop hammered the frame in place, as apparently the frame bent from the crash.
Now after the very scary crash I had, I am wondering if I should even ride the bike in that condition? I know it is impossible to predict how much time will it take for it to fail, but other than checking very often if the area next to the bumps changes, what else can I do? I know that getting new pieces welded is not an option as it is hard to weld aluminum and it is probably less expensive or equally expensive just to get a new frame.


texts: Bike weight limits, fatter tyre for more weight?

texts:
I have a touring bike which I use for commuting, I carry about 30 kg of tools with me usually on this pannier type thing I made on the back. And usually a work belt on the front which is 7 kg

 I'm wondering how much more I can safely carry on the bike without stressing it too much. The tyres seem to be under a lot of strain in particular. I'm 75 kg, unloaded with just me the bike tyres look fine, when loaded they're flattening out to an alarming amount.

I just ride on the road, but they're not good roads, I want to add about another 20 kg of tools and I'm wondering if I should put a fatter tyre on the back. I have 29 inch tyres on my mountain bike which look like they might fit. Or whether I'm worrying needlessly?


texts:
I'm building my first road bike, which means I'll have to find appropriate bar height through personal experience and cut the fork steerer in process at least once. I plan to start with the following combination, from down to top:

8mm conical spacer that came with headset.
20mm and 10mm spacers.
40mm high stem.
5mm spacer.

In summary, 38mm before stem, 5 after, resulting in total of 83mm of exposed steerer after cut. The fork has 1 1/8 inch (~28mm) tapered carbon fibre steerer, without metal liner inside. Headset is integrated, upper bearing is almost flush with head tube.

Will it be safe or I'll have to cut shorter? Fork manufacturer did not answer the question. I do not plan to ride out of saddle too much, at least during initial fitting, so bars won't experience significant load, and I'm pretty lightweight.


texts:
I have a Whyte Portabello hybrid, I wanted to swap to an adventure bike with drops. I thought as an alternative it might be easy to convert my existing bike instead, and save a bit of money.

It has hydraulic disk brakes but most brakes on drop bars seem to be cable operated?

The rear derailleur is a Shimano, so would I just have to get some Shimano road brake/ shifters and fit some cable operated calipers instead? Or is it a bit more complicated than that?

thanks


texts: Changing cranks from Praxis to Ultegra (BB advice)

texts:
I purchased a Specialized Roubaix Comp 2018 last year, I was not intending to purchase this bike but Evans had a 40% off sale and the deal was too outrageous to pass. I was originally looking at bikes with Shimano 105 groupset because I was given a friend's old stages 105 left hand side power meter. This power meter has been sitting around for months and months. I recently got an indoor trainer and have started 'properly' training. Reading power has been a big step up in my understanding of pacing and I'm very keen to get a power meter on the bike for when I'm out and about (once the world lets us out of lockdown...).

My problem is that I have no idea if my bike will take an Ultegra crankset. The currently fitted crank is a Praxis Zayante. The bottom bracket is not explicitly stated, most sites say "Included w/ crankset" (source: specialized).

Looking on the bike itself, the BB has external cups and say M30, so it looks like the BB is the M30 THRU BSA Threaded.

Now I understand very little about bottom bracket standards and honestly reading about them has confused the situation for me more...

Do I simply just unscrew the Praxis and fit a Shimano Ultegra BB such as the 6800?

Will my frame fit a different bottom bracket? I could not find any numbers for my frames BB sizing. Do these bikes adopt a standard or are they all slightly (stupidly) different?

The Shimano BB looks very cheap, this is a luxury/performance bike and I'd expect such a crucial part to cost a little more, are there better (less creaky) options than the vanilla BB for not much more?

Authors note: I recognise an Ultegra crank with 105 LHS is scuffed but cheaper than getting a 4iii for my Praxis (which is seemingly unavailable)

Edit: Here is a picture of the external cup on the LHS


texts:
Do fixie bikes measure like classic road bikes? i.e: https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/measure-frame/road-bike/classic

Or only up to the top tube? (without the part of the seat tube that's above the top tube)


texts: Is my carbon fork steerer tube damaged by overtightened stem bolts

texts:
As per the title: I've had my bike serviced by a bike shop, who helpfully tightened up the stem cap and pinch bolts on my headset. I rode it approx 15 km (9 miles)  and I noticed some play in the headset was reintroduced. I went through the usual steps of tightening it again (loosening off the pinch bolts, then checking wheel/bar alignment, then tightening the cap bolt, then re-tightening the pinch bolts), however I noticed the ridiculous amount of tightening on the pinch bolts. So much so, I could barely remove the bolts and nearly rounded them off.

I'm concerned that there's some damage to the steerer tube, as the pinch bolts were only rated to 5NM and they were clearly much tighter than that, and the play in the headset had returned in a short distance. Attached are some photos of the tube, where I can't see any obvious cracks, but you can see where the stem has been tightly mounted. (The top section that is dark, with an oval imprint, is where the stem has been mounted very tightly).

Without returning to the shop that bungled the job, is there a way to tell if this is safe to ride?


texts: Upgrade new bike to 11 speed or downgrade trainers wheel to 8 speed

texts:
I am farily new to cycling and roadbikes in general. I have bought a ( last years model ) roadbike with an 8 speed casette in the back. I also bought an indoor trainer ( 2nd hand ) and got a spare wheel with special training tyre on it. However, the casette on the spare wheel is an 11 speed. I have tried to fit that wheel on my bike, but the 11 speed does not ride well on my 8 speed bike. I took it off to prevent any possible damage to the bike and or wheels.

Is it possible for me to simply take out 3 cogs from my 11 speed wheel, and thus make it an 8 speed? If so, how do I determine which ones to take out?
Or would it be better if I 'downgrade' my spare wheel to an 8 speed? Or upgrade my bike to an 11 speed ( but I think this will be to expensive for me right now )?

Keep in mind the bike is new, so the 8 speed casette is not even worn out. The 11 speed wheel is used, but looks in very good shape.
Also my budget is very limited. Thanks for any helpful tips


texts: How to set up a Kickr Core to work with my Garmin, dynamically change "elevations" (resistance), etc

texts:
I recently got a Wahoo Kickr Core indoor direct drive trainer. I already have a Garmin Fenix 5X and a Garmin 820. (I use Training Peaks for my workout information.) I have no idea what to do now. I guess I want to connect them probably using ANT+. Do I want to connect both Garmins to the trainer, or just one of them?

How do I change the resistance? Do I use the Wahoo App on my phone or one of the Garmins? Is there some way to make the trainer simulate one of the rides I did last summer based on data saved somewhere in one of the Garmins?

The goal is to find some way to ride the trainer and have something simulating a "real" outdoor ride: hills, changes in resistance, etc. I'm not at all sure how to do this, or if it's even possible. I don't really want to subscribe to Zwift or Trainer Road at this time. I'd rather just get on the bike and feel like I have the ability to control the resistance or that it's changing it in some logical way.

Are there Youtube videos, a website, or something similar out there I could learn from. My searching has found lots of videos on how to connect, but not what to do with them after they are connected.


texts: Front derailleur doesn't change from grear 1 to gear 2

texts:
I have a Shinamo Tourney front derailleur that doesn't change well from gear 1 to gear 2 (I'm new to bicycles so I don't know standards, so I think I should specify that gear #1 is the smallest).
In fact, it does sometimes change, but only after a few minutes of pedaling, and it keeps making a rattling sound as it's still on gear #1, but the "command" is to get to gear #2.
The problem only holds when I change from 1 to 2, never viceversa. I think, but I am not 100% sure that the problem might be correlated with my chain falling off a while back (I don't remember the details, as in which gear I was and all that, sorry).

I'm not sure if I got to detail the problem as I should be, just because I'm new to this, but if you are willing to help and feel that I missed some information, please let me know and I will give you the information you need.


texts: How to pick correct front derailleur replacement

texts:
I just got 26 inch Huffy mountain bike at Walmart. It looks fine except front derailleur spring is too tight. I checked everything. Cable is moving fine, I checked derailleur on my similar bikes, so more or less I confident that derailleur spring is too tight. It makes it very difficult to shift it into the highest gear.
I was thinking to replace spring, but looks like whole derailleurs are not too expensive. So my question how do find correct replacement for my derailleur:  SR Sunrun 42T.
For example, would this one work: ebay.
Also given that this is new bike, should I just return it to Walmart or try another one? I am concerned that for this price there will be always something to replace even on the new bike
Update
I tried to loosen H and L screws completely. On front derailleur it is easy to see how they work and I can confirm that I set them temporarily to provide to limiting at all.
I also tried disconnecting cable and handle twists freely without any problems. So if it is routing issue, then it is probably something beyond my area of expertise, I can only check something obvious.


texts: What is a reasonable speed for long distances on a bike?

texts:
I am curious what a reasonable speed to travel on a bike is.  Speed will obviously vary based on the conditions in which you are riding.  I am planning on taking the GPS out with me this weekend to see how quickly I go.  Before I did that I wanted to get some benchmarks.

For the most part I will be riding an older road bike on crushed rock.  (Very small rock, with good rolling resistance but still much worse than pavement).

I will also be riding that road bike on the road (i.e.: pavement in North America, Tarmac in Great Britain).

What is a reasonable speed on these two surfaces?  I am more interested in speed over long distances, i.e. if you were going 80 km what would your target speed be?


texts: Shimano STePS Di2 Shifting with Alfine 11 - will it be ever automatic?

texts:
The Shimano STePS with Di2 and Alfine 8 received a firmware update this year, which enabled automatic shifting (it was not automatic before).

Does anybody know if Alfine 11 models will receive any firmware updates to switch automatically?

This FAQ from Shimano only mentions the Alfine 8. http://shimano-steps.com/e-bikes/europe/en/service


texts:
My bike is a Giant Reign, and I ride in the UK. I like going to local gravity parks and trail centres and my local tracks are mainly downhill orientated but I also like to get out on longer rides. I'm currently running some cheap pedals off an old XC bike and am using skate shoes. When the terrain gets even remotely rough, my feet are all over the place and it's doing my head in.

Obviously I need to invest in some better pedals and shoes, however I'm not sure whether to take the hit and go clipless straight away or to get some decent flats n proper shoes then revisit the clipless question further down the line. Any recommendations?


texts: Should I replace all wheel bearings when only some are worn?

texts:
I just ripped apart my mom's mountain bike's rear hub.  One of the bearings was incredibly rough, so I replaced it, and the other one was smooth, but didn't turn very easily.  Since I didn't have a replacement for it on hand, I just put it back, but I'm not sure if I should try to replace it.  Is there a good rule of thumb on bearings?  Does one failed bearing imply that another one is likely to go soon?

While we're at it, should I be doing anything to the freewheel other than cleaning it and re-greasing it?  I've heard it's important not to put too much grease inside the freewheel, or it'll increase drag when you're coasting, so I was careful of that.

The specifics for this bike:

Mavic wheels
Shimano 9-speed freewheel
Full suspension mountain bike that gets fairly heavy use on XC singletrack terrain


texts:
OK, I'm sort of just looking for justification here. I am the original owner of a '93 Trek 820 Antelope, and I am just recently getting back into biking for health benefits. Of course after riding "this old bike" for a couple months, I have the itch for "something new!"

The problem is, knowing my desire for fancy things, even a moderate new bike is going to set me back $2K, and obviously the sky's the limit. I've looked at Trek 520, a couple Surley (Troll, LHT, Bridge Club) and while they are absolutely beautiful bikes, I simply haven't yet convinced myself they are a worthwhile upgrade over my 30lb 25 year old rock solid bike. The 820 has been stored indoors 99% of the time, and only needs minimal service (new chain, new shifters & cables, new tires). So for 1/10 the cost of a new bike, I should be good to go.

Conversely, a new bike has the advantage of modern design (wheel size, frame geometry, etc) as well as A LOT lighter, and just plain cool.

So at this point, since I haven't found any super compelling reason to go with the new bike, I am really thinking of just putting a couple hundred into maintenance and be on my merry way.

My primary riding type is country roads. Mixture of tarmac and gravel. I'm too old and too overweight and too out of shape to do anything close to "mountainbiking"


texts: Can a headlight battery be reconditioned if it won't hold a charge?

texts:
I have an older CygoLite headlight that I used for commuting for a couple years.  It's been in storage for about 12 months, and now it seems like the battery won't take a charge.  I think its a variation of a NiCad battery, not lithium. The battery looks like this:

Is there a way to recondition a battery or do I just need to replace it?

Note - I have plugged the light assembly into another similar battery and it works, so I know it's not the bulbs.


texts: Do Carbon Wheels Stay True Longer Than Aluminum Wheels?

texts:
Does a race quality carbon wheel set stay true longer than an aluminum one (with equal abuse/mileage) ?

It seems like the properties of carbon would resist flat spots and warping better than aluminum.  Is this the case?

Also, is carbon easier to true than aluminum?  Aluminum can get bent badly and be rendered useless; does this happen with carbon or does it just crack?

Thanks


texts: My Serfas USL-5 raider usb headlight failed after rain, should I attempt user service?

texts: I own a Serfas USL-5 raider usb headlight.  This failed after very heavy rain, the blue charge light lights, but the switch won't produce light?  What should I do.


texts: What makes snap-on roll-up reflective bands want to roll up?

texts:
I have some of those reflective bands that snap around the ankle or arm to increase visibility while riding.  How are they constructed such that they want to roll up?  What's inside them?

(The reason I'm asking is that I want to punch some holes in the end of two bands so I can connect them, probably with zip ties, into one longer band.  The first time I rode with them their urge to curl was so strong that the ends were rolled up and and it was halfway off my ankle when I got back.  I think a longer band will stay on better.  I want to know if I can punch holes without damaging the bands.)


texts: Maintenance for an idle bicycle kept indoors?

texts:
I have recently bought a six-speed transmission bicycle, basic yet the latest one. But owing to my busy schedule I am not able to go for a ride on it, and the cycle is always left idle at one place.

So, I wanted to know how I can at least maintain my bicycle, so that it doesn’t rust and stays healthy.

Bike is always kept indoors.


texts:
My new bike is a Giant LaFree (electric pedal assist) with 26 x 2.35 tires. The tires are CST Metropolitan Palmbay.
I have had multiple flats on the front. The leak is always on the inside of the tube in the same place, where the ribs are.
My bike shop sells me Sunlite 26 x 1.95 - 2.125 tubes. I have changed the inner rim strips to cloth ones, I run the tires at 60 psi (recommended on the sidewall is 22 - 60 psi).
I'm not sure what to try next.
Thanks very much,
Robert


texts: My disc-brakes on my mountain bike sing/scream when I brake. I have tried to clean them, but it didn't work. Should I replace the disks or the brake pads? Is there a better (cheaper) way to fix this.


texts: converting from MTB to hybrid, what should I consider

texts:
I regularly ride MTB off road and used to use the bike for commuting too.
I recently bought a hybrid for my commuting in addition to my MTB.
What should I consider in terms of maintenance and riding style on the new hybrid. The main differences for me are the skinny tires and rim brakes instead of hydraulic discs.


texts:
I know it's because of the space taken up by the rear cassette. But why not just make the hub narrower, and not make it asymmetrical? Sure, the drive-side hub flange must be moved inboard to make room for a big cassette. But why not move the other flange inboard as well?

The spokes must be at an angle to provide lateral stiffness to the wheel. However, the wheel must be in static equilibrium, so on a dished wheel with different spoke angles on each side, the drive side and non drive side spokes must be in different tension, or else have different diameter or spoke count. This is well known. But why go to the trouble? Why not move the non drive side flange in as well, and use the same spoke tension on both sides?

Suppose on the drive side, the spoke flange is offset 20mm from the hub centerline, but on the left, the flange is offset 40mm. Obviously, 20mm of offset is sufficient offset for the drive side, in order to impart sufficient strength and stiffness to the wheel. In fact, I postulate that the larger offset of the non drive side is unable to add additional stiffness vs. the 20mm offset of the drive side because the wheel must be in equilibrium. Any additional offset of the non drive side must be compensated for by looser spoke tension, anyway, giving no benefit. So why not just make it 20mm on both sides, and reap the benefits of a shorter, stiffer axle?

It cannot be true that dish provides a laterally or vertically stiffer wheel. The wheel must be in equilibrium, so the stiffness of a dished wheel should be the same as a wheel where both flanges were simply the same distance from centerline as the drive side. In other words, the drive side is the limiting factor. The only advantage I can see to dishing is that the lower spoke tension on the non drive side might allow thinner (but longer!) spokes and thinner hub flange, saving weight. But this seems unlikely to compensate for the weight savings that could be had with a shorter axle.

Another possible reason is an aesthetic desire for a laterally symmetrical frame dropout spacing. But in a world of Lefty forks, is this really a barrier?

I thought of this after seeing a heavy duty touring bike with an un-dished rear wheel.


texts: kid's bike rear brake not having stopping power

texts:
I recently bought a 2nd hand kids bike for my 4yr old. Prev owner replaced rear wheel with one having a freewheel and installed rear brake.
I've noticed the brake does not have any stopping power when my kiddo is riding however the brake stops the wheel when on a bike stand w/out any prob. I replaced the cable, pads, lever with new ones .. problem remains.
I can't install V-Brake at the rear as the frame does not support it.
I can't find a brake (better quality) that would be able to clear the tyre - seems like I need one that would have around 8 to 9cm reach.
Thanks for any suggestions,

Julius


texts: How many days does it take for an absolute newbie to bike 330km?

texts:
I have no cycling experience but want to purchase a bike and do a 330km multi-day route by myself. Before getting into this somewhat risky business, I would like to run pros/cons by experts on this site. :)

My pros:

Physically fit. Should be OK in term of cardiorespiratory.
I will be biking in a highly populated area (around Bay Area). So if anything goes wrong I can just get a Uber and go home.

My cons:

0 cycling experience.
Maybe a weak knee. Got a bad knee from running long distance in the past. Haven't used it for a long time but should be much better now.

My question is, is it reasonable for a person like me to finish this in 3 days? Any suggestions? Thanks!


texts: Can a bike have both rim and disc brakes?

texts: Was just wondering if a dual option like this was possible or even desirable.


texts:
I purchased a pair of Carrera Vendetta wheels, 27.5" with 2.8" tyres.
I found a couple cracks where the spoke sits around the back rim.
Is it okay to ride or is it okay to weld them?


texts: How do mechanics test problem that are only happening under load?

texts:
My singlespeed bike emits a creaking noise(coming from somewhere in the drivetrain) while I'm riding on it, however it doesn't when pedaling on the repair stand.

This question is not about this problem but it made me wonder how do mechanics test to find the problem and verify that they fixed it?

Do they check every pieces of the drivetrain to find a potential problem needing to be fixed? Not knowing whether it is this problem causing the noise.

Do they go out and ride it to try to reproduce the noise?

Do they have some way to apply power on the transmission while on the repair stand? (With a bike trainer or similar)


texts: Lefthand crank arm for spinbike BH SB 1.8

texts: i am trying to buy a new crank arm however there are 2 different type, a rhombic hole or square. After looking at the picture on Amazon, they look both the same. any help would be welcome.


texts: I'm currently trying to choose between the CycleOps PVC roller and the CycleOps Aluminum roller. How big of a difference is there between them? I don't really care about riding the roller outdoors, so that difference is moot for me.


texts:
I'm sure a question like this must have been asked before but I can't seem to find it.
Should one learn to climb out of the saddle? I have heard that if the climb is steep enough, then at some point that may be worth it. However even for short ramps of more than 20% I still feel more comfortable staying in the saddle. Should I try to get used to out of the saddle climbing to possibly alternate on longer climbs or punch up short climbs? Or is this up to personal preference and I may just be better off staying in the saddle? (but even then should I train out of the saddle riding for a bit just to try?)
I ride pretty much exclusively on the road. I have recently tried out of the saddle riding on a short 25% ramp and did lose traction because of some leaves on the road. Though in general this shouldn't be much of a concern.
I don't have specific goals, I never participated in any race or similar. I wouldn't rule it out for the future but it's not in my current plans (since frankly I don't think I am at a level where it makes much sense to compete). Mostly I just ride for fun however I would like to become a better climber/cyclist in general.
Currently I mostly ride the
short 1.7km climb at my doorstep but occasionally I will also ride some proper long climbs.
EDIT: Thanks for the many answers. The overall impression I got is that staying seated if it feels more natural (which for me it does) is fine so I guess I'll continue staying seated then. Thanks everyone for the answers.


texts: Deep cleaning - crank, derailleurs, hubs

texts:
I recently completed a 100 mile sportive that included a lot of riding through big puddles, fords etc.. bike got very muddy/gross and was making a lot of noise by the end of it! I gave it a quick once over with muc-off and a rinse after the event but really my bike needs a proper clean. I regularly lube my chain and keep that and the rear cassete clean and I often give the bike a good general clean but seeing as I've owned it since 2010 and never cleaned the other more fiddly bits can anyone offer any advice on what to watch out for when de-greasing/re-greasing derailleurs and whether I should bother with the crank and hubs?

In a nutshell, I just bought some muc off de-greaser and some grease.. I'd like to give the bike a good proper service. I do NOT want to accidentally de-grease a wheel hub or whatever and screw it up!

I love my bike and I'd like to get into servicing it fully, but I don't have much time in my life to spend a whole day on one hub.. any advice? Also, I don't want to pay an LBS a fortune to do it for me!

Cheers,
John.


texts: I have done exactly 2879 km on my cassette, and currently I got myself a new chain which is a third for this cassette. With first chain I made 1985km, but I already noticed a significant degradation in shifting so I replaced the chain. Then with the second chain I did only 894km, but did not experienced misshifting, I just measured the chain with a chain tool (two different tools) and and it showed lots of stretch, so I replaced for the 3rd time. Now I am wondering will this chain with this much "worn" cassette last at least some reasonable time/km/miles? I have done 33km with this new chain to see how will it perform and it didn't skipped at all, I could still call it a precise shifting through all the gears, but on some cogs there's a "grinding" feel if you know what I mean. I always keep my chain, cassette and crank clean after every ride, road or off road. So would it be wise to get a new cassette at this point? Or try and see how long will this new chain last? In case someone is interested the cassette is shimano 50-9 11-34, first two chains were hg53 and the 3rd one is kmc x9.


texts: I am curious if anyone has put larger tires (mountainish) on their road bike.  I am thinking about doing this to do some riding on gravel roads/touring/commuting from rural areas.  I have an older steel Norco.  How rough can I ride this with bigger tires without damaging the bike?  (Purely just for curiosity.  I am not planning on doing any drops etc but if I drop off a curb now and then does that matter?)


texts: Help me identify downtube shifter boss type

texts:
I think I received this frame with standard Shimano cable stops, but they don't seem to fit. Also, I couldn't found this shape of downtube bosses anywhere.
The problem seems to be with the non-rectangular shape of the "base" part of the bosses. I can't fit the cable stop over the base, there's a huge gap and the stop can rotate around.
EDIT: I've shown the frame to a local framebuilder who's been in the business since early 90's and he said he's never seen this type before.


texts: How does paraffin chain wax perform in winter conditions (snow, road salt, -20° C)?

texts:
I’m interested I switching to paraffin chain wax or a wax product like Molten Speed Wax. But I’ve got concerns about how it might perform in winter where I live in Calgary, Alberta.

It’s supposed to be good for not picking up grime so I’m presuming it will do well to keep from picking up salt and snow, but I do wonder if it won’t just lock up or flake off when the temperatures get too cold.

Any insight or experience using chain wax in winter climates would be appreciated.

(To be clear, I’m asking about the kind of product you melt in a slow cooker and immerse your chain in after stripping other lubes off with mineral spirits. I’m not asking about wax based dry lubes that you apply to the chain while it’s still on the bike.)


texts:
Basically what is going on with my bike is that I tried to fix a creaking problem in the area where the stem and the bike frame meet. I took apart the front of the bike and some of the headset pieces came off without me knowing and I don't know how to put them back. Whenever I try to put the pieces back together, the fork tends to still move around.
Description:One picture consists of the original bike and how it looked.

Description: The other image shows how when the front of the bike is lifted, the front wheel moves downward leaving a gap.


texts: Does anyone have dimensions (width) for the stock saddle that comes with a Trek 520 2021 model?  The Trek website simply describes it as "Bontrager Evoke"


texts:
The lever to raise and lower my Rockshox Reverb Stealth 31.6 dropper post comes loose occasionally and can swing around 360 degrees. My seat is then stuck until I tight up the screw. When I re-tighten the screw, the lever works again and the dropper post works fine. However, I don't want to do this on the trail obviously. Does anyone know how I can prevent this problem from reoccurring?

Thanks


texts: What will the difference in speed be between an endurance geometry road bike and a race geometry road bike?

texts:
I am looking to get a new road bike and am wondering if there will be a difference in speed between an endurance geometry bike like the Fuji Sportif or Specialized Diverge, and a race geometry bike like the Fuji Roubaix or Specialized Allez. I am looking to go as fast as possible but I also plan on going on 50+ mile rides so comfort is also a factor for me.  I also do not plan on doing many hardcore road races.
Other info: I am 140 lbs.


texts:
With the current stem and bars I have on my bike I have quite an upright position and get a falling back feeling while climbing. When I stand in the pedals to gain an extra bit of power in a climb I often end up spinning my back wheel and losing momentum. I'd like to have a more solid feeling when climbing so that I can exert more effort.

What can I do to improve my position so that my climbing improves?

The set up is standard on my Specialized Hardrock (I believe it is a 75mm stem with a 20 rise and a 680mm bar with 35mm rise and 8 backsweep). I tried some back of a fag packet trigonometry and guessing that my hand position (not taking into account the angle of the headtube) is currently about 23mm in front of the steerer and about 61mm above it.


texts: I'm looking for a chainring compatible with bb86

texts: I'm trying to invest in a new powermeter (never had one) but my current cranks are FSA Gossamer which are no longer in stock by most. I looked at power2max and they don't have a compact chainring. Is there a list/chart with chainring compatibilities? If not is it possible to use a bottom bracket adapter to something more common? (like shimano 105 5800?)


texts: How to re-tension front derailleur cable

texts:
Bike is a mid 80s Miyata with early Shimano 105 components. It's a 10 speed, 5 speed cog and 2 chain rings.

I recently had my front derailleur set up again by a good mechanic after it stopped shifting at all. He reinstalled the derailleur to height/angle, adjusted the limits, and installed a new cable. It shifted great for a few days, super fluid and quick. Now it has trouble traveling far enough to reach the larger chain ring and I feel like the shift cable stretched a bit and needs to be re-tensioned.

Is it likely the shift cable needs to be re-tensioned? Or the limits need to be readjusted?


texts: Front derailleur cable keeps snapping, change of riding habits perhaps?

texts:
My front derailleur cable has snapped within three months of changing. As a result I’m seeking advice on good biking practice.

I ride a Specialized Hardrock Disc SE 26 from 2014. I ride on a college campus and go off road (albeit quite elementary of a “trail”) often. There are a lot of hills and I’ve noticed that almost none of the other riders touch their shifters.

I on the other hand, treat my bike like a car, and shift constantly. I start with (1,4) front and back, and go through the 21 speeds, while skipping some.

This might seem silly, but do I have the whole concept of bike riding wrong? Am I shifting too much, causing accelerated wear and tear, because a bike’s gears aren’t meant to be shifting constantly? As noted above, I don’t see some other riders touch their shifters at all.

Kindly give me your thoughts on the matter

I appreciate your help!

Matt

[EDIT]. I was riding thru the woods when a twig got stuck in my drivetrain. The gears were thrown out of whack and my chain broke. I took it to get fixed and it ran fine. Then I noticed that the front derailleur cable was slack. It wasn’t taut as it used to be. It shifted well though, and I ignored it. Then today I shifted into gear 3 on the front and didn’t feel the resistance when pedaling. I glanced down and sure enough, cable was sticking out and the chain had not moved. The cable had snapped.

[EDIT] The Cable broke at the derailleur end, right where it was anchored to a point on the derailleur mechanism in the front. As user ojs suggested, it is indeed a pull-up type of shifter. I shall add more pictures.

[EDIT] I appreciate your patience with me, this is my first post. I've uploaded three images which I believe aid in our investigation.
Attached is the link to specialized bicycles. The page is the manufacturer's specifications of the Hardrock.

Specialized Hardrock Disc SE Specifications


texts: Disc brakes squeak on Trek mountain bike

texts:
I have a Trek 3900 mountain bike with disc brakes, and I just took it out of winter storage to start riding it for the season.
Everything works well, except for one very annoying problem: when I stop the disc brakes make an extremely loud obnoxious squealing sound. Any ideas of what is causing this?
Thanks


texts:
This question was posted on the excellent BikeHacks website:

  I don't have a hack, but a question. My head measures 66cm. I can't find a helmet that fits. Even ones that go to 66cm are too small. I've considered looking into motorcycle helmets. Any advice?

I'll post a link to this question under the blogpost.


texts: I’m planning to build a pedal car for kids (which I would love to use too), and many of the samples I saw on the web use one-sided axles. I know wheel chairs and some brands like Cannondale use them but I can’t find any clear information, so my question is: Can any regular axle be used as a one-sided axle (ending it with a washer and nut) or it should be something specific for that? This question is from the axle strength perspective, considering that the weight will be distributed onto four wheels.


texts: why do my pedals keep turning when i freewheel?

texts:
I've had my bike up on a stand to give it a clean.  As I was cranking the pedals to clean the chain, then let the pedals go,  I noticed that when the back wheel was freewheeling it would start the pedals turning by itself.  Why does this happen?
I also noticed that if I had the front on the little granny ring, and the back on the littlest sprocket that with the back wheel spinning, not only would it start pushing the pedals around, back there 'e also a fair amount of slack in the chain.  What does this mean?


texts: Headest: replace bearings or entire headset

texts:
I realize this will be different for all headsets, but:

I have a Tange Levin headset. The headset is starting to show wear: the fork sticks at regular intervals through its turning.

I've inspected the races and they don't show any visible sign of deformation. Is it possible that only the ball bearings have deformed and that the races are fine? Is it worthwhile to order replacement bearings and reassembling the bike? Has anybody had success doing this?


texts: Is it generally the case that bikes are allowed to use the "full lane"?

texts:
Many blogs and other sources of information on cycling advocate "riding like a car" or "taking the lane" as a way to increase safety and visibility when riding on a road. But such advice presupposes that doing so is legal.

Is it generally the case that bikes may use the "full lane", or is it better to check with local ordinances? Is there a general rule of thumb one should apply in cases where one is not certain about local rules?


texts: Converting a 3x10 to 1x10 with QR dropouts (NOT Thru axle)

texts:
Wondering about the load and potential issues of converting a 3x10 to a 1x10.

Bike is aluminum with QR axles.

Should I worry about the rear axle twisting out of the dropouts on the higher gearing?

Dropouts are vertical.


texts: Derailleur installation adjustment method

texts:
I recently installed a SRAM XX1 crankset on a mountian bike (first build) in the instructions they want you to:
1. Adjust for the high
2. Adjust for the low
3. Install the shifter cable
4. Adjust the B-screw
5. Put the chain on
6. Adjust high and low again.

I didn't find this to be particularly useful because I couldn't get the chain to align. I found out by talking to a few people that after I put the chain on, it was hard to align the shifter. I talked to a few people and they said after the chain goes on you should undo the shifter cable and then put it back on. After I did that everything worked perfect.

So I have a few questions:
Is there a method to installing derailleurs that works? Does it vary between brands? Are there any tricks I should know?


texts: Could you make a bike frame out of 24kt gold?

texts:
Obviously it's a silly idea. Apart from the cost, it's far too dense and not stiff enough to be a good frame material.

What I'm asking is would it be possible to make a ridable bike from gold? What calculations would be needed to work out what tube size/thickness would be needed?


texts:
So my old tyre had markings 32-622 and 700x32c. I bought new tyre with those specs and that is fine. It fits perfectly on the rim.
But I bought inner tube with those specs and it seem it is way to big for the rim / tyre. I'm a missing something? What is the correct size inner tube for this tyre?


texts: Modify a normal bike to suit my disability

texts: I am disabled in my right arm (Brachial Plexus) I would like to improve my comfort on my bike.I would also to know about the braking system fitted on one side.


texts: Front derailleur compatibility of Shimano 3x10 speed flat bar shifters

texts:
I'm trying to find a pair of 3x10 speed flat bar shifters and am somewhat confused over the compatibility.

My understanding was that all (front) road shifters up to 10 speed can be mixed and matched with any (front) derailleur (except for Tiagra 4700).

I found this Shimano compatibility chart, from which I had assumed SL-R783 is compatible with the old triple front derailleurs.

When measuring, both SL-R783 and SL-4703 pull the same amount of cable (1-3: ~13,5 mm). Older triple shifters (from a 7 speed group) pull ~21,0 mm of cable between first and third positions.

Therefore, I would think that the (front, left) SL-R783 shifter is not compatible with for instance an Deore XT FD-M771.

Do there exist any 3x10 speed flat bar (road) shifters compatible with old style (Shimano 7/8/9 speed MTB or road) front and rear derailleurs? I'm specifically looking for flat bar shifters (with trimming function) compatible with (9 speed) Deore XT FD-M771 and RD-M771.


texts: When I put my bike on the repair stand and turn the pedal, is the rear wheel supposed to spin freely

texts: I recently bought a cheap road bike.  I feel a little drag in the back. When I put it on a repair stand and turn the pedal,  the wheel spins a few times and stops.


texts: Pedal assist sensor possible for front wheel motor on ebike?

texts:
I'm looking into converting my current bike into e-bike. I run with IGH, so the only place for the motor is the front wheel.

Is it possible to have pedal assist sensor (PAS) with this setup? I.e. no throttle mode, provides power only when you are pedaling.

If yes - can you provide examples of sensors, controls, etc. which could be used?

I am using Hollowtech II bottom bracket.


texts: how to remove through axle on raleigh 2.0?

texts: I have a Raleigh RX 2.0 cross bike with through axles and I'm having trouble removing one. On the rear wheel, when i try to unscrew it, the lever unscrews but not the axle. If I keep unscrewing, the lever will eventually come off. I've tried taking it off and putting a back on a bunch of times but nothings happened. Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Also its a very new bike, and is cleaned after every ride (just had the wheel off yesterday)


texts: Schrader inner tube gets cut by Presta sized hole in rim

texts:
I am new at bikes. I got an old bike with flat tires which I decided to put back to life.

I went to Walmart and got the cheapest inner tubes (Goodyear) which turned out to be Schrader type. I had no idea about Schrader nor Presta valves, I was just getting new tubes.

When I started replacing the tubes, I saw that the valves of the old tubes were very different and my new valves didn't even fit the rim holes. I thought my bike was just too old and used some very old tube technology that nobody uses anymore.

I got rid of rim grommets and threw them away, and the new valves fit just fine. Now, however, the inner tube get cut around the valve all the time. What can be done to avoid cuts in this situation?


texts: I just bought a 2019 Giant Defy Advanced 2, with Giant's "Conduct SL Disc" brake system and it's the only thing about the bike I don't like, for many reasons. But my question is, are the rotor mount holes "universal" i.e. can I replace the Giant system with Shimano 105 mechanical brakes? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Tool/proceedure to remove Shimano direct mount rim brake bearings (Ultegra in this case)

texts:
Looking for some advice on what tool I need/the process to remove the pivot bearings from the Shimano Ultegra direct mount rim brakes. It looks like I'll need a hook wrench(?) to get at the rear silver nuts, but the black notched ring on the front I'm unsure of .
Note this is not a question of how to remove the caliper from the frame - I want to remove the sleeve that the silver bolt sits inside.
Reason for asking is one side feels gritty and a little tight.
EDIT:
I suspect this answers my question: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BR-R8010-RS-4254.pdf
The parts I'm referring to are not explicitly listed so I doubt are meant to be serviced.


texts:
I recently bought a vintage Gitane road bike. I understand that in the 70s and 80s they sold a lot of these road bikes with drop handle bars. Sometimes they came with the extra lever for an easier grip from the top but mine doesn't.

Most modern road bikes seem to have more of a grip from the hood which allows you to squeeze the brakes when sitting upright.

So I am wondering if you are supposed to quickly change to the bottom grip to reach the handle bars? Is that something you get used to doing quickly after some time?
Riding in the city seems very uncomfortable having your hands on the brake at all times while looking out for cars.
Is that intended to be used more in touring than in busy city traffic?


texts: Getting a Brompton on and off a plane without going broke

texts:
After the damage done to my Brompton by StarPeru, and from the information in my previous question, I now have a Chubby.  It protects the bike better than the B-bag, and my carry-on goes in it between flights.

But the previously onerous task of finding the right flight price has become much worse, because I have to search each airline's website, and try to understand the convoluted baggage fee rules (if I can even find them) to get the real cost.

Traveling Overseas with Bikes has some good information, but it cites a page that seems to contradict some of that information.  It also seems to only be pertinent to Europe (I'm headed to Taiwan and Korea) and also to having a car to get the packaged bike to the airport.  (I get to the airport on the bike, usually.  Dumped the car seven years ago.)

Looking at those two references and others, I get some messages that I should NOT tell them it's a bike and some saying that telling them is protection (which it certainly wasn't in Peru).

Any actual experience here taking something like the Chubby on a plane?  Especially interested in other than Europe.

Saving a hundred whatevers on the ticket is no good if I spend two hundred on the bike.  Saving two hundred on the bike is no good if I spend five hundred for repairs.¹

¹Last trip, an iPad was stolen, and only then did I find that the insurance had a three hundred dollar limit.


texts: Transitioning mountain bike into city commuter bike

texts: In effort to transition my mountain bike to a city commuter- can I replace the mountain tires with thinner city tires without changing the bike wheels?


texts:
Just wondering if there is much point in having three chain rings on my MTB, I very rarely change gear on the front and I feel like having a single cog would make the bike lighter and also tidier as there would be less shifters and cabling getting in the way.

Is there any danger in fitting a single chainring?


texts: What causes "softness" in hydraulic disc brake systems?

texts:
I have a simple Shimano hydraulic disc brake system (don't know the model).

Over time, the feel of brakes is getting soft, I have tried to adjust by tightening the screw (on the joining of brake line). I have also recently changed the brakes pads myself.

Is softness due to a decrease in fluid level?


texts: Trouble deciding between XC and road helmet

texts:
I need to buy a new helmet as my current helmet is at least 7 years old now and its pretty broken. I wanted something safe, and I've been using Bell helmets for forever, so just sticking with the brand.

https://www.bellhelmets.com/stratus-mips-equipped-1
https://www.bellhelmets.com/catalyst-mips-equipped

Both of these are MIPS helmets. I wanted the Stratus because it has a 5 star safety rating from IIHS:

http://www.iihs.org/iihs/news/desktopnews/new-tests-show-some-bike-helmets-protect-better-than-others

The only two questions I have are:

Are they both the same helmet except one has a visor? In the pictures both look to be pretty much the exact same. However the weight difference is 45 grams, which seems a bit high for just one visor added on.
I do both trail biking and road biking (although the trails I bike on aren't too extreme. So would a road helmet or a XC helmet be more useful?


texts: What maintenance is required for a thru axle?

texts:
A thru axle is a hollow axle that gets clamped by each fork leg and through the hub. Like what a motorcycle has. Much stiffer and stronger design then the typical QR dropout.

My sons newer downhill mountain bike has a thru axle on his front wheel/fork. I've never had a bicycle with an axle like this.

Is there any different sort of maintenance I should be doing?

Edit ---------

They are on some Marzocchi 55s, probably around 2008/2009 model year:


texts: Where can I ride Paris-Roubaix style cobbles in the UK?

texts:
Watching the Paris-Roubaix and the Ronde van Vlaanderen recently made me think I'd like to try out my road bike on similar-style cobbles, just for a laugh.

Is there anywhere in the UK (I live in Devon, so down in the South West would be best) with similar surface?


texts: How do you calculate aerobic and anaerobic heart rates?

texts: What are some of the methods to determine my aerobic/anaerobic heart rate threshold.


texts:
I have only just noticed that my bike dosen't seem to make a lot of noise when free wheeling, in fact it's pretty much silent. Is this down to the fact that I have been putting off a major clean?, is my bike damaged? or is my bike equipped with a silent freewheel that I didn't know existed?

I am currently riding a Scott Aspect 30 Mountain Bike


texts: Can I replace only the smallest cog on my rear cassette?

texts:
I currently have a 12-30t rear cassette which needs replacing.   While I'm at it, I really want to switch to an 11 tooth to get the extra 9% in top speed.  But the problem is, even the most expensive (e.g. Ultegra) component that will work with my bike only goes up to 11-28, and if I stick to Tiagra I'm stuck with 11-25.  For long steep hills on an off day, it's really nice to have the 30 tooth.

So my second thought was, the bottom 2 or 3 cogs usually aren't fixed to the cassette, they are individual cogs that can come off.  So maybe I could get a 12-30 replacement, and then a single 11t cog to replace the 12t or maybe I could even drop the 13t so the stepping goes 11-12-14.  This would be ideal as I use the 12t and 14t heavily but I virtually never use the 13t.

Would this work?

From what I can see, I would also need an 11t lock ring.  I'm having a difficult time finding both a lock ring and an 11t cog which claims to be compatible.  For instance, I found one cog which claimed to only work various cassettes which were already 11-xx and which were 2-3 grades above my Tiagra components.

Update: I found this PDF file on the Tiagra CS-4600 which suggests I need part Y1YF01000 ("Lock Ring for 11T Top Gear"), and Y1Z81100N ("Sprocket Wheel 11T (Built in spacer type)").  But I can't find anywhere (for instance Amazon or Google Shopping) to buy these part numbers or the corresponding parts.


texts:
I have an Origin8 compression plug 90mm long with recommended torque of 8Nm. But it can't be inserted fully into the Hylix carbon fork I bought online as there's lots of epoxy blocking the tube in the last 10mm of space the plug requires to be fully inserted (given the length to which the steerer has been cut, ~7 inches, 17.5cm). The obstruction extends up to about 9cm above the fork crown. Rather than try to drill some of that stuff out, I bought a slightly shorter plug that is only 81mm in length.
The recommended torque for the 81mm plug is 10Nm (per the manufacturer's website).  I can't find any technical info on Hylix, so I'm wondering if 10Nm is OK, as it is a good deal higher than recommended torque on the Origin8.
The Whisky compression plug instructions say to tighten their plug to only 1.6Nm, so clearly there must be quite a difference in the design of these plugs, or quite a wide range of opinion on the proper torque, or that number is a typo.
Is there any way the consumer can make fact-based judgments on such things? Is the thickness of the steerer tube wall the determining factor? It is 2.65mm

“People often make the mistake of thinking that the plug is solely to
preload the headset bearings,” he [Raoul Luescher of Luescher Teknik in Melbourne, Australia] said. “However, due to most carbon
steerers not having much in the way of hoop strength, due to the
difficulty in laying down 90-degree fibers in a production environment
with the process used, the plug is important to contain the hoop loads
from the stem clamp. Thus I do not recommend ultralight or poorly
designed or installed plugs in most steerer tubes as we see lots of
cases of delamination caused by the stem clamp.”

https://cyclingtips.com/2017/05/cane-creek-eenut-review/


texts: Feeling of suddenly missing chain in bike while pedalling

texts:
I can't pinpoint the problem with my bike, but the feeling is that it suddenly feels like I have no chains, and then it comes back, like it's "skipping".

UPDATE: From the comments, I think the proper description is that it suddenly stops engaging from the freewheel. Usually it happens when I'm vigorously pedalling, or when I pedal in reverse. There's also a snapping sound when it happens. And then it returns to normal after a while.


texts: What are the advantages of having a road bicycle frame with lower tyre clearance?

texts:
Say, I won't ever put tyres above 28mm and the frame allows upto 30mm vs a frame that has an allowance of upto 35mm.
So, what are the advantages with a frame with lower tyre clearance or the advantages with higher tyre clearance (apart from tyre size)?
Also, what difference will either of them cause while riding?
I am getting myself a custom built road bike frame - with geometry close to Merida Scultura 8000-E Disc, with slight tweaks according to my body dimensions.


texts: Why so many headset spacers on some expedition bicycles?

texts: I've been looking at expedition bikes and I've noticed on some bikes I've seen that they have a lot of headset spacers such as http://www.oxfordbikeworks.co.uk/models/overview/ and thorn cycles in particular. Why is that?


texts: Disc brakes too tight after pad replacement

texts:
I've just put new pads on shimano deore disc brakes for the first time.  I pushed the pistons right in until flush, popped in the new pads easily, but when I pull the lever the pads stay against the disc. It's a slight but continuous rub at the front, but the rear barely moves.
I'd recently flushed with worn-out pads, so I thought possibly there was too much oil. I pushed the pistons back in allowing excess to leave, but same problem.

I recently did a long drive with the bike on the back exposed to rain and salt which I don't think helped. Any suggestions?


texts: Rear-steer tandem with middle child saddle

texts:
I saw a bike for hire in France, and I'd like to track down more details on it or something similar.  Unfortunately the hire logos covered the manufacturer logos and the bike was locked up to others (all with the same colour frames) meaning I couldn't get a picture to show anything clearly.  And the shop was closed.

It was a rear-steer tandem, with quite small wheels (maybe 24").  In front of the rear rider's saddle¹ was a low saddle with fixed handlebars and foot pegs. This was positioned rather like the top-tube child seats common in Europe, but from the design of the child's handlebars it was clearly integrated into the frame at manufacture.  It looked suitable for a tall adult at the back and up to a short adult at the front. All three sets of handlebars where slightly swept-back flat bars.

This seems more sociable than putting a rear toddler seat on a tandem (where they can't be heard).  It would also have a higher weight limit and allowing panniers.

The only current manufacturer of rear-steer tandems I can find is Nijland, and they are all step-through (so no top-tube to put the child seat on).

¹ I guess I should call it the captain's as this is where the steering handlebars are.


texts: what is the most secure bicycle combination lock?

texts:
Which bicycle lock that is a combination lock (with a code instead of keys) is the most secure device available on the market?

Of course everything can be broken, and its only a matter of time, but for which combination lock the time to crack it by a potential thief is the highest, without using tools that a thief is very unlikely to use on the street.

Considering that price and weight are not an issue. The only absolute requirement is that its a keyless lock. Is there anything that has an exceptionally good proven track record, preferably something that is being sold for quite some time already with no major vulnerabilities found?

Clarification: as a lot of people instead of applying common sense, made fun of me and spammed the answers with useless non-information, let me define terms used in the question:

The term "price is not an issue" is to be understood as "Price of the lock up to a single fee of 200 EUR (approx. 250 USD) is acceptable.

The term "weight is not an issue" is to be understood as "Mass of the lock up to 3 kg (approx. 6.6 pounds) is acceptable.


texts: Highest gear much harder to pedal after repair - did the repair break something?

texts:
I recently bought my bike in for repair and I got it back and I've noticed two separate issues that are causing me some concern and I wanted to ask this community what they thought of it.

The hardest gear is MUCH harder to pedal than when I first bought it in.  I'm talking some he-man strength to get this thing going.
When in the hardest gear and pedaling it feels like you can FEEL the chain, I don't know how else to describe it, but there is a feeling in the pedals.  This is only in the hardest gear, the other gears are ok.


texts: why would my chain slip on the road, but not when the bike is on a stand?

texts:
The chain on my bike has started to slip a lot -- every couple of seconds when riding. It happens, as far as I can tell, in every gear, and is unrelated to shifting.

The precise nature of the problem is hard to diagnose because I can not make it happen when the bike is on a stand, it happens only on the road.

What kind of chain/derailleur problem would manifest only on the road and never when the bike is on a stand?


texts: Could you advise me on budget folding bikes

texts:
I figured the best way for me to commute to work (3 - 4km) during the summer may be riding a bike. The problem is that I live on the fifth floor and there's no elevator in my building, thus I need something fairly light and easily transportable. I'm short and lightweight myself, so 16kg bike is a bit too heavy but something around 12kg may do.

Could you recommend something specific? I'm thinking of something like this: https://silverbacklab.com/product/soto/

I'm afraid I may be overlooking something. Anyways, despite the commuting aspect It has been awhile and I really miss riding a bike.

Thank you in advance


texts: Is there a permanent (non-emergency) patch/boot for a tire, NOT for a tube?

texts:
I have a discontinued tire with a tiny hole in the sidewall. I’d rather keep/use the tire if possible. I’m very familiar with emergency tire boots, but those are for emergencies. I’ve left them on slightly larger holes, and found they wear through, not necessarily just from abrasion of the road, but just from constant flex inherent with a tire. I’m looking for a more permanent patch for the inside of my tire, and NOT the tube. I searched and could not find anything.

The hole is in the fabric of the tire, and causes a slight bulge with an outside radius no larger than that of a pencil.

Is there such a product in existence?


texts:
Looking to buy a used LeMond frameset. The price is right but it's missing its head badge. Anyone have advice about how I'd go about replacing it?

Thanks in advance!


texts: How do I fix and prevent this rust on the front wheel?


texts:
I've just fixed my flat tire on the front wheel and now I found out that if I try to push the wheel to the sides it kind of moves a little. it feels like it's not secured to the hub. How do I fix that?

I tried to remove the wheel from the fork and to tighten a little the bolts from the sides of the hub - but it made the wheel to spin awfully!


texts: My bike's chain broke, so I have to replace it now. The question is - how can I tell what size chain do I need to buy so it fits the bike? It's a 5 gear internal-hub bike.


texts:
The chain came off a couple of times while I was riding yesterday and when I tried to put the chain back, the small screw came off from front derailleur.

I think maybe that’s a thing to attach the plate and where it moves.

Is there any way to fix this problem?


texts: What causes and how to fix wandering bite point on Shimano hydraulic brakes?

texts:
For the last two months and less than 600 km of riding I have been using a pair of new Shimano SLX BR-M7120 "high power" 4-piston hydraulic disc brakes. Yesterday I have noticed that the bite point of the rear brake started to wander, i.e. the lever travel required for brake engagement changes.

Specifically, when pulling the lever a few times in quick succession, i.e. when pumping the lever, the travel shortens considerably (up to 1.5 cm at the finger position, depending on how fast you pump), so that the brake bites sooner, with the lever further from the handlebar than normally. The lever never sinks closer to the handlebar than normally, i.e. the bite point always wanders to the outside.

The brakes have been bled very recently and the lever does not feel soft nor is the braking weak. Combined with the fact that the lever never sinks, I am not sure this is due to air in the system.

This is quite a frustrating and unsettling issue in general and especially when hurtling down very steep and rough terrain (which these brakes are meant for) where it is dangerous both to go too fast or too slow, one of which you are likely to do if you cannot tell when your brakes will engage. So as the question says, does anyone know why this happens and how to fix it?

Some additional info:

front brake is also affected by this issue but to a far lesser extent; the lever has to be pumped faster than it would be during any realistic trail riding situation
problem first occurred in wet and cold weather (just above freezing), however I've ridden in the same conditions a few times before without noticing it
the brake is not damaged and, apart from this issue, works great


texts: Remote rising seat posts and heavier rider

texts:
I am looking at remote adjustable seat posts that I can adjust the height of using a lever on my handle bar. They have a high price tag.

Examples are
Rock Shox Reverb Seat Post
and
Crank Brothers Joplin 4 Remote Seatpost

Are these type of products ok with a heavier person?
Are there any other factors I should note before I buy one of these?
Other than the manual method of lowering, are there other options I should look at?


texts: Shimano 105 brifters (5800) and Avid BB5 compatibility

texts: Are Shimano 105 brifters (5800) compatible with Avid BB5 mechanical disc brakes?


texts: "Footprint" of the Park Tool PCS 9 stand

texts:
I am trying to workout whether the park tool PCS 9 workstand would fit in my bath tub (it's the only place I can clean my bike). To do so I need to know how big the footprint of the stand is.

Could someone measure theirs for me?

Approximately it's the distances in this image along the red lines...


texts: Due to hip and knee problems I need to fit my saddle a couple of inches further back is there a bracket available?

texts: Due to hip and knee problems I would like to move my saddle  up to a couple of inches backward, is there a bracketed seatpost or similar available? Any solution would allow me to ride for longer periods, an answer would be very much appreciated.


texts: Running one wheel with clincher and one with Tubular

texts:
I have a carbon clincher wheelset and am looking to get a disc wheel, but don't want to spend the money for the clincher version. Would there be any foreseeable issue with running one wheel with a clincher tire and the rear with a tubular?

Should I get the same tire in Clincher and Tubular when purchasing tires if this is safe to do?


texts: Topeak Explorer Tubular Rack two versions confusion

texts:
There are two versions of the "Topeak Explorer Tubular Frame Mounted Bicycle Rack"

'regular' (TA2026-B) and 29er (TA2042-B )

I'm not sure what would work best with my 700c hybrid bike?

The difference in dimensions(Size (L x W x H) 42 x 17 x 41.5 cm vs 34 x 14.2 x 41.5 cm)  seems a little odd as they both support the MTX QuickTrack™ System. I do plan to get an MTX trunk bag for it.