texts: Looking for an alternative to the Speedlifter Twist / quickly rotate handlebars solution

texts:
I'm looking for an alternative to the Speedlifter Twist: http://www.speedlifter.com/twist.php?L=en

The only function I'm interested in is the parking feature where I can turn my handlebar 90˚. I have a small apartment and it would really save a lot of space. I know of the flipphandle (http://www.bikesnapp.com/flipphandle.shtml), but it doesn't appear that the company ever actually put it into production. Has anyone seen anything affordable with similar functionality?


texts: How can I prevent rubber handlebar grips from melting/disintegrating?

texts:
I bought a used mountain bike recently that came with some not so great handlebar grips.  In humid weather they get really sticky (so much it hurts to pry my hands off them) and bits of rubber come off and stick to my hands.

I'm replacing them as soon as I can but in the meantime I'd like to know what I can do to prevent this from happening with my new set of handlebar grips.  Does this happen when you leave your bike in the sun or the rain?  Is it inevitable after a certain amount of time?  Is there anything I can do about it?


texts: How to hold rear derailleur sprocket arm extended

texts:
This is about inserting a chain, either a new chain or reinstalling the old one, like after cleaning as in my case.  The rear derailleur arm is fighting me of course because of spring tension.  The chain in my case has a master link now.

Is there a tool, or something I can make, or some trick to hold the RD arm extended while I get the new chain on and the master link clipped?

A third hand would be great but that's a project for the future.

Thanks.


texts:
I must confess, I don't know much about bikes.  Until fairly recently, a bike was just that thing that I rode to work each day.  I've been slowly learning more about bikes but I still have some newbie questions.  This is one of them.

If I recall correctly and have got the terminology correct, a fixed-gear bike is a bike with only one gear (so you can't change it) and no freewheel (so if the rear wheel is turning, so are the pedals).

Why do people ride fixed-gear bikes?  Isn't it either hard to get started (if fixed in a high gear ratio) or hard to get to a good speed (if fixed in a low gear ratio)?

I'm not trying to insult or flame riders of fixed-gear bikes - I'm just curious! :)


texts: one side of cantilever brake pads does not spring back

texts:
Same as this question one side of brake pad retention problem (i.e. attached to rim) but mine is a cantilever brake. The answer there doesn't work as mine doesn't have those screws and the brake holders look very different.

The bike is a mountain bike if it matters.


texts:
I am having trouble adjusting the shifting on my Campagnolo Super Record rear derailleur. I have set the high and low limit.
I think the main problem now is that the jockey wheels are too far away from the cassette (around 1cm when it should be 5mm). I tried to do this with the H-Screw.
However, when I turn the H-Screw... Absolutely nothing happens. Nothing moves, I turned the screw until it cam out, put it back in, not a single change.
So my question is: How is the H-Screw supposed to work? Is there a spring or something that I may be missing?
In this photo, the H-Screw is fully extended:

In this photo, the H-Screw is fully inserted:

Here is the back view:

Side view:

Is it possible that my chain is too short, or that the derailleur hangar is bent? I can't think of any other explaination.


texts:
Can anyone help me identify my bike please? It has a slight story attached as it was one of the bikes in the new Lance Armstrong film. It was badged up as a Gazelle TVM (and as far as I can see, re-sprayed to represent the team colours). Most of the transfers were removed before re-sale but two remain. I'm fairly sure it isn't a Gazelle, after checking their catalogues from the 80s and 90s.
At both ends of the top tube it has heart cut-outs on the lugs and also at the top of the down tube. The brake cable also runs externally, under the top tube and has three stays, evenly spaced out. There is a serial number on the bottom bracket which reads; 90250 and also says 54 degrees (o) C. I've searched for this but come up with nothing. I suspect the frame is Columbus and the bottom bracket is about 76mm in width.
Does anyone have any ideas? The bike is great to ride, so I have no issues with it. Just curious if anyone knows what it actually is??
Cheers[full bike


texts:
The alignment has drifted such that when my front wheel is looking straight ahead, my handlebar is not perpendicular to the wheel.

How do I fix this at home?


texts: Upgrading everything to Ultra R8000 except for crankset which is Shimano Sora

texts:
I currently am running full Shimano Sora.

The crankset is 34/50T. The cassette is 11-34T 9 speed.

If I upgrade all my components to Ultegra, this being the rear derailleur, cassette (11 speed) and the front derailleur. Will the Sora crankset still work with the Ultegra gears? I don't really want to spend $500 on a new Ultegra crank when the one I have now is fine.

I am purchasing the 11-34T Ultegra groupset.


texts: What is the best breakfast right before cycling?

texts:
Sometimes I feel I will faint when I am cycling in the morning. I usually don't have this problem after lunch.

My breakfast is rich in carbohydrates, but maybe I'm eating too much or missing some nutrients.


texts:
I have a road bike that has a triple chainwheel setup (48x38x28)in which the chainwheels are not replaceable.  (Made by SunTour)  The middle chainwheel has broken a tooth so the whole thing needs to be replaced.  What a waste...

Anyway, I want to upgrade to a Shimano M361 crankset with the same tooth size chainwheels (48x38x28) that has the nice benefit of having replaceable chainwheels.

I have a Shimano JIS sealed bottom bracket; 117.5 spline size on the bike right now.

My question is do I have to replace the bottom bracket with a different size or will the existing one be fine?

The three bike shops here in town were no help.  One tells me it will work, one says it will not, and the last wasn't sure.

Thanks for your help!


texts: Replacing Ultegra R8000 'long cage' derailleur (crash repair advice)

texts:
Today I did the unthinkable and crashed my pride and joy, a 2018 Specialized Roubaix comp. It's completely my fault I was commuting to work and in my pre caffeine state rode through what I thought was a puddle but was actually a massive patch of black ice.

I went down straight away, I came off the bike and we both landed separately. I'm ok (cuts & bruises + massively damaged ego) but the bike is damaged.

Fortunately it went down on the handlebars & rear derailleur, the bar tape was damaged & and the rear mech is bent and scraped badly.

I've checked the frame for damage and it looks ok, I'm going to give it another inspect after a thorough wash but I'm chancing that the frames ok.

I'm going to repair the bike, since all thats really damaged is the rear mech however I'm unsure about sourcing a replacement.

I bought the bike from Evans cycles, they state the spec as: Shimano Ultegra 8000, long cage, 11-speed

However wherever I look online (Shimano's own site), it looks like they only sell a short & medium cage derailleur.

My cassette is 11-32 so I do require a longer cage. The medium cage derailleur does state it can take a 34T max so I'm going to order that.

My question is, why would the bike specs specify components that don't exist? Did a long cage ultegra derailleur ever exist (the bike is 2018 spec).

Are there any checks you guys do or 'must replace's after crashing out (I usually buy a new helmet for example). I'd say the crash was a more intense version of everyone's first crash when learning to ride clipless pedals at traffic lights (a straight drop).

I usually do all of my bike maintenance myself (minus the hydro brakes), would you recommend taking it to a shop for a once over or is that just a faster way to part with my money?


texts: Minimal Low-Rider Touring Front Rack Recommendations

texts:
We're in need of a good, reliable low-rider front rack for long distance touring. I've come across a good number of heavy-duty front racks with low rider rails like this from blackburn

(source: blackburndesign.com)

But they get pretty pricey, and seem to include a lot of bulk we don't need just to hang some panniers. The best option I've seen to date is this front rack I spotted that comes with the new REI adv 1.1

but after a few inquiries it sounds like there isn't any way to get the rack on its own. There are also options like the Salsa Down under or Blackburn cl1 which looked promising, except they require midfork eyelets on the outside and inside, of which we only have outside midfork eyelets.

The axiom journey rack also looked promising and at a good price

but it doesn't seem intended for use with frame eyelets, and moreover, it doesn't look like it can be mounted level with the ground (I've heard this is important, but correct me if I'm wrong).

I figure there is a solid chance I'm just searching for something that doesn't exist, but it would be awesome to find a minimal, inexpensive front rack. I've also seen things like this Tubus

which look good but come at a steep price. Maybe that's just the price you have to pay, but I'm hopeful there might be some alternative.


texts: Is it ok to store a bike with the (hydraulic) brakes locked (i.e. pressurized)?

texts:
It's really windy today, and the rain tarpaulin makes a good sail for the bike I'm storing on my balcony.
Short of actually mooring the bike to something, I decided to just fasten the tarp a bit tauter and tying down the brake levers to stop the bike rolling back and forth.
With mechanical brakes I would have no concerns about this, but now I'm wondering: are hydraulic brakes also ok with it? After all, they're not static but kind of “self-adjusting”, and the pistons move out over time as the pads wear down.
Does this cause any problems if the pressure is kept up for not just minutes as it might in a normal descent, but days on end?

@AnAnt remarked that car handbrakes are routinely used in fixed position when the car is parked. I thought about that myself, but I don't think it's a really relevant point because a) most parking brakes are apparently not hydraulic, but mechanical or electromechanical and completely separate from the main brakes, and b) the fact that it's possible to design hydraulic brakes to be pressurised continuously does not imply that all hydraulic brakes are able to do this.(So, if anything, cars suggest that it's not a good idea to keep bike brakes locked.)


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Is there an optimal postion for SPD cleats?

SPD cleats (and others) can be positioned on the shoe over a range of about an inch, forward or backward. Where do most people position it? What are the advantages and disadvantages of putting it near the toe, back toward the center of the foot, or half way in between?


texts:
How do you optimize the recruitment of our glutes when using a more upright bike?

According to an answer for a previous question, rolling the hips forward slightly makes the glutes easier to recruit on a road bike. A high tail saddle helps too.
Which position adjustments maximize the use of the glutes in a road bike?

With a more upright position like on a hybrid bike, the hips look rolled back more than on a road bike. Does that mean bikes fitted like a road bike are necessary if you want to exercise your glutes?

If that's true, then it seems like indoor cyclists should be using road bikes on a trainer or a stationary bike with an aero position for a more complete and balanced workout, to reduce the risk of muscle imbalances, and also have gains that are more transferrable. The gluteus maximus is the biggest muscle in the human body by volume. If we want more power and endurance, we should be targetting them.

Is it possible that the rule is different for more upright bikes? If so, what should be done to the bike fit or pedalling technique? Would increasing the setback increase glute recruitment? Should the saddle be lower too?

Update:
To be clear, when I used the term upright, I was referring to the posture of the cyclist rather than bikes that are non-recumbent. In this case, more upright meant bikes such as hybrid bikes, city bikes, Dutch bikes, and mountain bikes rather than road bikes, touring bikes, or cyclocross bikes. For someone who wants to target his or her glutes with an upright posture, rolling the hips forward may not be a good idea because the back can be hyperextended which could lead to pain or even injuries to the spine. There must be a way to target those muscle groups on bikes allowing less aggressive positions. Hopefully, someone would have an answer. The intent here is to increase the options so that whatever bike we ride, we can have a good workout whether if we don't see the need to go faster.


texts: How much resistance comes from each part of a bicycle?

texts:
How does one decide which part of a bicycle is the best candidate to upgrade or tune if the goal is higher speed for the same energy? For example, should one upgrade wheels, or tyres, or change to lighter parts, or to reduce aerodynamic drag with fairings?

Is there any way to compare the influence of each part? How much power can you save, and is it significant enough that you can recognize the difference? For example, do aero improvements make sense if speeds are very low and, if not, how can you determine the speed above which it does make sense?

We are reinventing wheel here.
Aero formulas from Sheldon Brown and racing bike chart

Few similar links answering this question:
- resistance types

- aerodynamics part 1

- aero (exploratorium.edu)

- human body front area depending on pose in case it will be possible to ride in horizontal position drag must be way smaller as front area will be at least 5x smaller.


texts: What is the ideal brake pad material for a MTB used in both downhill and cross-country/Single-track settings?

texts:
all!

I and my wife both spend a lot of time doing both downhill and single-track MTB in New England. We both are still on our stock organic pads, and are looking to replace our pads soon-ish. I, especially, suck hardcore and tend to spend a bit of time on my brakes going down the 5 mile long green downhills. I notice significant fade by the end of the run, and the pads are quite worn down after only a few trips. The wife is looking for more aggressive pads, mostly.

I have reviewed these related articles on SE: 1 2

It would appear that for a single use bike, the answers are more or less self evident - sintered for downhill, semi-metallics for single-track.

However, which pad is best for a mixed use bike? Is it better to go for the more rotor-chewing sintered pads, or the more balanced semi-metallics? I am leaning towards the more aggressive pads - rotors and pads are cheap, but injuries aren't. I'd rather cause excessive wear on ST versus having poor performance on downhill, where I have a knack for getting injured. (Some day my elbow will be enough scar tissue that eating it doesn't result in any new lost skin /s)


texts: The eyelets/braze-ons on my bike's seat stay are on the inside, not on the outside. Which Rear Rack will fit it, if any?

texts: I have a Trek X1 Cyclocross bike and I want to get a rear rack for my bike. I went to a bike shop and none of limited rear racks they had would fit my bike. The reason was because the eyelets or braze-ons on my bike are not on the outside of the seat stay as typical for a bike, but are on the inside. The second picture shows what I mean. Does anyone know which rear rack will work without adding any attachments? Much appreciated!


texts:
I have a wheel set with bladed spokes and they regularly become twisted such that the spokes are no longer lined up with their thin side to the wind, as indented.  They twist so that the broad side of the spoke is breaking the wind instead.

This has to be a pretty common problem and I was wondering if there is a good way to straighten the blades so that they are aligned properly?  I usually go at it in a pretty crude manner, taking a leatherman or some other multitool and carefully grabbing and turning them straight.  The problem is that the tool is usually too big to fit properly in between the spokes and there isn't enough room to twist the spoke back completely straight.  It's especially difficult when there is a lot of tension on the spoke.

Are there any methods or makeshift tools that one can use to straighten bladed spokes without the risk of damaging them?


texts: Can I use Shimano's Di2 e-tube project software to do a custom lock out of additional small sprockets while in the small chainring?

texts:
Context: I'm designing a drivetrain for a touring triple-tandem that I'd like to have a very wide gear ratio.

I plan to use the Shimano Di2 derailleurs (long cage RD-M9050-SGS and 3x11 FD-M9050) to limit cross chaining so that I can (hopefully) safely fit a wider cassette and a wider range triple crankset within the capacity of the long-cage rear derailleur.

I've read that Shimano's e-tube project software lets you pick from a limited set of supported chainring and cassette configurations. I'm looking at cranks (E.g. 44/33/22) and cassettes (e.g. the SRAM 10-42) that may not be in the Shimano dropdowns.

I know that some people on the internet suggest picking "similar" ones in the software and that you can customize the shift map when you use the right shifter in full-syncro mode.

What I don't know is:

1) Whether there are options like 44/33/22 in the crankset dropdown, and

2) If there's aren't super close options, can I manually enter my chainrings?

3) If necessary, can I ask the software to lock out EXTRA small sprockets on the cassette when in the smallest chainring?

To be specific, based on the quoted capacities (41-45 teeth) of the long-case derailleur, I've made the following chart of what I believe is safe:

My concern is that I understand that even if I enable full syncro-shift with a custom shift map that does protect unsafe gearing combinations, there will be a way to use the left shifter to get down into the lowest chainring while still in a low enough sprocket that the chain is too loose-- UNLESS I can ensure the derailleurs fully prevent those unsafe red-combinations.

More broadly, will I be able to set these components up in a way that Di2 prevents the unsafe cross-chaining in my desired drivetrain?

I tried playing with the software myself, but it wouldn't let me into the customize menus without having first bought all the Di2 components, which I have not yet.

Thanks so much.


texts: Best practices for commuting with rack & panniers

texts:
I've been starting to commute by bike more (about 6 miles each way) and decided to upgrade from my cheap, old mountain bike to something more suitable. I just bought a used 2009 Kona Jake off Craigslist. Pretty excited about the bike -- it came with fenders, rear rack and two panniers.

Previously I've just carried everything in a messenger bag or backpack when riding. Panniers are new to me. What are some tips you have for packing and riding with panniers? I'll be carrying a laptop part of the time and beyond that a book or two, a lunch, maybe some clothes and other miscellaneous bits.

For example, I'm wondering:

If I don't have much on a given day, should I just use one pannier or try to distribute between two? In general, how important is it to keep them balanced?
Should I be concerned about heel spacing or getting on/off the bike? (In my initial short ride, it wasn't an issue)
When I have more weight, how much will it change the stopping distance and the bike's balance?

Unfortunately, the bike's in to get a tune-up so I can't recall the make of the panniers. Beyond the rack hooks, there's also a strap that runs from the middle, has a hook on the end and some velcro that attaches to the top of the bag. I can't figure out what they're for.

** Edit **

Here's a photo of my new (used) panniers. They're by D2R.


texts:
For an ordinary bicycle (neither fixed gear nor capable of changing any gears).

Is it possible to modify it to have a reverse gear on it?

(i.e. reverse pedaling causes the bicycle to go backward)

(By modifying or attaching components to the rear wheel)

Thank you in advance


texts: Should I put grease under the lockring on my cassette?

texts:
I take my cassette off the bike to give it a good cleaning a few times a year and have always put a good amount of grease under the lockring. I am not talking about repacking the hubs, bearings or anything like that, just some grease to fill the gap between the lockring and the sealed bearings that are deeper down inside the freehub.

I've seen some references to greasing the threads on the lockring, but nothing about grease under the lockring. Without the grease does dirt/rocks/grass/mud get into that gap?


texts: How dangerous is a very out-of-true disc brake wheel?

texts:
While walking to work this morning my eye was caught by an odd movement on a bike passing me several metres away.  The front wheel was far from true laterally, though it didn't look out of round.  It was on a basic hardtail/hybrid with front suspension with disc brakes; it was fairly close but not rubbing on the rather wide forks.

If we assume that this wasn't due to impact causing weakening I couldn't see, how dangerous is it likely to be?


texts: Can I store my mountain bike + suspension hanging from the front wheel for the winter (in an unheated garage)?

texts:
Switched over to my winter bike to keep my favorite away from the salt.

Can I hang my bike by the front wheel for the winter?  Will be in my unheated storage-room/garage/shed.  My ownly real concern is the suspension.  I have a Rockshox XC 32 shock.

Edit: The average daily low in January should be about -15 C (5 F) the record low was -40 C (-40 F).


texts: Do I need to put some grease on free hub or keep it dry?

texts: I have a dilemma with put on some grease on the freehub body or not. Because some people recommend to keep it dry?


texts:
I bought a new gravel bike (Serious Grafix Pro) with SRAM hydraulic disc brakes.
The rear one has very weak stopping power.

I can pull the right/rear brake lever completely to the handlebar and the pads just softly touch the rotor. So I'm wondering if I can just e.g. tighten a screw to make it more sensitive.

How can I adjust it? I found many Youtube videos, but none I needed.

Sorry for my lame question, not particularly strong for (not only) bike mechanics.

Thanks


texts: Where can I return a Gobee bike in Paris?

texts:
The Terms and Conditions says that bikes cannot be used for trips outside France in section 3.a.iii but also mentions "areas listed as sanctuarized (crosshatched)" ("zones répertoriées comme sanctuarisée (hachurée)" in French) and a "predefined usage zone" ("zone d’utilisation prédéfinie") in section 8.a. There is no indication of what is this "predefined usage zone" or even if it is a form of exceptional exclusion zone like an airport or nature preserve or if this include all the Franch territory except Paris proper. The bike availability map shows bikes parked outside Paris in some locations like Montrouge and La Défense but no crosshatched areas.

I need to go to Cachan (4 km outside Paris, closer than La Défense), would it be possible?


texts: What can cause the front wheel to lock up when going over a small bump?

texts:
I was going over a bump. When the front wheel hit the bump, it suddenly stopped moving, the rear wheel lifted off the ground, and I was thrown face-first onto the road. I sustained injuries to the face, hands, chest and knees, and had to go to emergency (see edit 2 for photograph of injuries).

I'm fine now, but I wanted to understand this so that I can be safe next time.

This happened with two different cycles, so I know it's not a defect specific to a unit or to a model. One was an e-bike, with small wheels (maybe a foot in diameter), poor or no suspension, and was going at its maximum speed of 25kph.

Since I was asked, here's a photo of my riding posture:

The brake:

And the brake lever:

(These were taken on another unit of the same model, but they're identical AFAIK.)

The other cycle has the usual-sized wheels, no suspension, and was going at 25kph or slightly slower.

In both cases:

I was going more or less straight.
The road was dry.
I never pressed either brake.
The bump was tiny, half a cm at most, and the bike can navigate much bigger bumps at full speed safely.
The road was otherwise smooth.
It was the front wheel that caught the bump.
I was thrown over the handlebars.
There was no indication of anything going wrong before I was thrown over the handlebars — no skidding, no scraping sound, no loss of balance, nothing.
The vehicle didn't have apparent damage either before or after the incident.
I wasn't carrying any loads.
I didn't have loose clothing that can get stuck somewhere.
I wasn't applying the brakes.

Is it because the bump caused the front brake to apply spontaneously? Is there anything I can do to be safe, because at this point, I'm a little concerned about using bicycles or e-bikes any more.


texts: Any detriment to hanging a bike by its front wheel?

texts: I came across the below image today and thought it a great idea for storing bikes. However I wasn't sure if literally hanging a bike by its front wheel might cause undue stress to either the wheel itself or the front forks. Has anyone else done this to no ill effect? In the image below the back wheels don't even seem to be touching the floor, which I would have thought would take some of the weight.


texts: Can rubber hoods be used on a different brand of brake levers?

texts:
The rubber hoods on my SRAM levers have started to tear. However, locally there are only a couple of Shimano rubber hoods.

Can they fit and what should I pay attention to?


texts:
Schwinn midtown bicycle, when replacing brakes I see the wheel has many grooves as shown in picture. I do not remember how it was before. Is this condition normal for the wheel rim?
Photo of the old rim and the old brakepad:

Two images of the new rim:


texts: Help please - Dent in top tube of double butted aluminium frame

texts: I have a ridgeback velocity which is labled as double butted aluminium. Around the middle of the toptube is a dent shown in the photo. There is also a short line above it which I can feel with my nail. Would it be safe to ride?


texts: Chain skipping mid cassette after a clean

texts:
I have cleaned my chain and gears with rubbing alcohol and towels. Afterwards, I applied some chain lube on the chain. Now, when under a lot of torque, the chain skips and slips mid-cassette. Low gears and high gears seem to be unaffected. There were no tweaks made to the front or rear derailleurs. Could the previous gunk have kept the chain centered on the gear? Is there any chance that the rear derailleur got tweaked in the cleaning process somehow? I did clean the two gears on it.

The bike is a 2007 Specialized Tarmac with about 4-5,000 miles on it.


texts:
I recently got an xtech pressure gauge that reads up to 160psi. My bike is a road bike that uses presta valves on the inner tubes.

Here's the gauge (the one at the bottom):
http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/contents/en-uk/d377.html

When I pop it on the valve the reading only seems to go up to about 40 psi. I feel if I inflate my tires much more they might explode (they are pretty much rock solid and I was expecting a reading of something more like 100) - they seem to have the same level of inflation as I bought them.

So my question is, is there a special way in which I should be hooking this up? At the moment I'm just unscrewing the metal release thing on the presta valve and pushing the gauge on firmly. The gauge holds its reading even after you remove it, and I've tried resetting it by pressing it's release valve button but that doesn't seem to make any difference.

I'm guesssing it's busted but maybe I'm doing something silly.


texts: Can any MTB rear derailleur be mounted to a Scott type 1 MTB derailleur hanger?

texts:
Can any Shimano MTB rear derailleur be mounted to a type 1 (206375) Scott derailleur hanger.

I have a type 1 derailleur hanger with a Shimano STX rear derailleur mounted and like to mount a Shimano XT rear derailleur:

The reason I ask is, because last year I wanted to temporarily replace my derailleur with a Shimano Alivio 8 speed derailleur because the old one was damaged, but I had problems mounting the derailleur in the correct position/angle. I was able to screw it tight, but only in a strage direction. I finally gave up and managed to repair my old derailleur faster then expected.

Now I'd like to upgrade to a 9 speed cassette, gearshift and rear derailleur and remembering that problem back then makes me ask the same question again.

Products in question:

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Scott/Ausfallenden-Schaltaugen-p30245/ (type 1: last photo)
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/XT-Schaltwerk-Shadow-RD-M772-9-fach-p16320/


texts: What bike/helmet camera resolution is needed in order to read licence plates?

texts:
Has anyone had any success with cameras that can resolve the license plates of vehicles that are near the bike?

What resolution will be needed if we want to be able to read license plate later on?

EDIT: Is resolution 1920x1080 enough for license plate resolution? Or is frame rate (interlaced vs. progressive; 30 fps vs 50fps vs 60fps) necessary; or is it the bitrate that is the most important?


texts:
I'm starting to commute on my bike soon and was looking for suggestions or advice on what type of headphones I should use to listen to music while riding?

I am aware of the dangers of listening to music while riding and intend to only ever have one earpiece in at a time (so thinking in ear / over ear headphones).

I'd imagine that headphones that just "fit" into the ear (Example) would fall straight out. Those that go deeper into the ear (Example) wouldn't fall out but would also reduce outer sound (bad?).

So with this in mind I believe the best choice for cycling would be those that go over the ear (Example)

Am I right in thinking this? Is there anything else I should be considering when choosing a pair?

Many thanks.

N.B. All links are from Play.Com (UK) and are just the first examples of each I found.


texts:
I have a pretty cheap bike (29" Genesis Two-Nine) which served me very well for 2 years and now the front wheel got stolen.

Are front wheels universally replaceable and if yes, what are properties which must be equal? For example, my bike had a 29" mountain bike front wheel with a disk brake. Will any wheel with these properties match the bike?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How do I know when to replace my tires?

The surface of my rear tire has become flattened as opposed to its original convex shape.
I have about 2,000 miles on it.  "It" is a 23 Vittorio Rubino Pro.


texts: Why is it safer to bike with traffic, instead of facing oncoming cars?

texts:
There has been an ongoing debate in my area's local newspaper, regarding biking with vs. against the flow of traffic. A recent incident in which a cyclist was hit from behind, and later died of his injuries, prompted a letter in which another local called for cyclists to bike opposing traffic, so that they could more easily see oncoming traffic and avoid it if a crash was imminent.

Experience, the law, and common sense all say that this is wrong — one would think that everyone knows you should ride with traffic because vehicular cycling is safer. That being said, the debate so far has been almost entirely focused on what the law says, and anecdotal evidence, which isn't enough to convince some people. Does anybody have any references to scientific studies showing actual data on the safety of riding with vs. against traffic? Explanations of why are welcome too, but please include some references or data. I'd like some sources that I can cite in a response showing that cycling with traffic is safer for everyone.


texts: Is there a measurement for tyre profile or height from rim?

texts:
I have a small child road bike frame that takes 20 inch wheels. It comes with no information from the manufacturer, but from what I've learned there are two 20 inch wheel/tyre standards 406 and 451.

Based on measuring the fork, 451 wheels will fit but with very little clearance. If it were an adult road bike frame with 700/23c wheels/tyres I wouldn't be concerned but from what I've seen 20 inch tyres tend to be 'fatter' or rounder than their adult sized counterparts.

So - my question - is there a standard to define how high a tyre rises from a rim? If not, is there a calculation/rule of thumb you can use? Or even a crowdsourced resource of end users real world rim/tyre combinations?


texts: Are there any cheap, wide tubular front wheels?

texts: I was recently involved in a crash, which has cracked my front clincher wheel. I'd like to give tubulars a go and would like a wide rim so that I can fit some 700c x 25-28 mm tyres without the tyre becoming bulbous and greatly increasing drag, while enjoying the added comfort of a wider tyre. Are there any options for less than £100? Most of the options seem to be full carbon constructions, which I cannot afford and do not brake well in the wet anyway.


texts: How to DIY electric bike modification - Schwinn 3-Wheel?

texts:
I've come across a mint condition 3 wheel Schwinn bike (big tricycle) and I'd like to modify it to be electric driven. My main focus is an efficient electric system and I would like to integrate solar charging at one point.

I'm willing and able to build it myself. I don't need a kit although I'm interested in integrating the most technical advancement within the last few years.

Recently, I spent some time in California and it appears the best and fastest electric bikes have the motor mounted in the front hub to pull the bike. This Schwinn bike has a very large basket behind the seat mounted over the rear axle where I could have larger battery packs.

How can one modify this 3-wheel Schwinn to an electric bike?

Note: It will be used only on relatively flat terrain, in Florida.


texts: What is a good sandal type of cycling shoe for summer riding?

texts: I am looking forward to the southern summer and was wondering if anyone could recommend a good sandal style cycling shoe (I have SPD pedals)?


texts: My chain slips despite new parts and tuneup

texts:
I use my bike for commuting, and so my knowledge of bikes is enough to make to work and back.

I have a trek 4500 mb. I purchased it used, and from the very first day I have had this issue where the chain slips/jumps. Which means, peddling is far from smooth.

I've already:

tuned up bike (several times)
replaced chain
replaced cassettes
replaced crankset
replaced derailleur (rear)

But the issue persists. Slipping happens every day, at least once a day, but often when I create more torque.

What could the issue be? I like this bike, but the random slipping is rather dangerous as sometimes it happens when I'm standing. I have 2 bike shops near me, neither can give me answer or fix the issue.


texts: Fox Talas FIT RLC 32 - broken lock and problem with the right leg

texts:
I just finished my first Marathon race today, it was super cool, the best MTB experience in my life -- but there was a super frustrating part.

Something broke in my fork right leg, and now that one has some front/back play/movement, when I brake the front wheel.

I did not used the right leg lock, just wanted to compress the fork, from 140 to 110 at the beginning and then I heard a quite loud noise from it. The left leg works great, but a rider said that the sound probably came from the right lock part, and he was right, now it has no lock, which is not a big deal,
BUT because it moves a little bit front/back, feels like garbage :(

It's an old fork, my city has only one shop, not sure if they can fix it. Does anyone has an idea what part should be replaced, and how much would it cost to me?


texts: Putting a front Derailleur on a carbon frame

texts: Do you put anything under the clamp on the carbon to protect it? In the past I've tightened brakes on MTB handle bars to much and wrecked them so I'm wondering.


texts: Raleigh Circa 2 Mens 2017 Hybrid Bike What are the exact dimensions (in mm) of seat tube and top tube of 16'' frame of this model (CR216MBK)?


texts:
Shimano RD-9000 which is a bit dinged up due to me setting the bike down...with my feet still clipped in to the pedals

What does this ring do, can/should I snap it back in to place, and how?  I have already tried a hex key down the barrel and it wouldn't budge.


texts: Does a Tern Cargo Rack fit on a Bike Friday NWT (whilst accomodating Ortlieb Backroller Classic Panniers)?

texts:
I was wondering, whether a Tern Cargo Rack fits on a Bike Friday NWT with a Sram Dual Drive 27 whilst accommodating Ortlieb Backroller Classic Panniers. The problem with rear racks, the Sram Dual Drive and Ortlieb Panniers on a Bike Friday NWT is that most rear racks are low (green line) and narrow. The low clearance between the top of the rack and the internal gear hub and the narrowness will cause the panniers to "sit" on the gear hub (the blue line is longer than the green line). I suppose this is also why the standard Bike Friday rear rack is very high (the pink line is longer than the blue line):

Picture modified from bicycletouringpro.com.

The Tern Cargo rack is also low but quite wide. I am wondering whether it is wide enough to give enough space to the sides so that the Ortlieb Panniers sit next to the Sram Dual Drive hub rather than on top of it. I found a report on BikeForums.net but it didn't contain any information on the Sram Dual Drive and Ortlieb Panniers specifically.


texts: Interoperability of hydraulic disc brakes and levers between model lines/manufacturers

texts:
My bike came with  Shimano Deore XT M765 hydraulic disc brakes and Shimano Deore XT M756 hydraulic levers Dual Control units.

I wonder whether the calipers from one manufacturer can be connected to the levers of another?

For example, can I connect 2018 Shimano XTR Race M9100 series calipers and rotors to Shimano XTR ST-M966/ BR-M965-F Hydraulic Disc Brake & Dual Control shifters?

Alternatively, can I connect Hope Tech 3 V4 calipers and rotors to the Shimano XTR ST-M966/ BR-M965-F Hydraulic Disc Brake & Dual Control shifter?

I want to mount this set-up on Fox Talas RL shocks.

What will be the issues of mounting these systems?

Thanks


texts: How does a bike's weight affect the overall experience of owning it?

texts:
Naturally, carrying a light bike up the stairs is much more enjoyable compared to a heavier bike. Are there any other aspects of a bike which are affected by its weight?

For example, would the weight affect handling at low speeds? Higher speeds? Turning? Stability in strong crosswinds, heavy rain or other adverse weather conditions?

What does the weight say about a modern bike's components? About its durability or dependability? Maintenance? Wear and tear?

Are lighter bikes always better? What would be a reasonable weight threshold below which gains are diminishing?

As an inexperienced cyclist looking for a new bike, I'm unsure how much I should be paying attention to its weight.

UPDATE: what specific weight ranges should I be looking for these days? What would be considered very heavy, reasonable, and at what weight do we enter the multi-thousand-dollar pro racing bikes?

I found a cheap made-in-China fixie in Singapore (where I live); when I learned it weighs 17kg I realized why it's so cheap!


texts: How do Mini V-brakes compare to cantilever brakes for Cyclocross bikes?

texts:
I've got a surly cross check with straight bars, v-brakes, and mountain shifters. I was considering a switch to a drop bar setup for cyclocross racing so I have an alternative to my single speed cross bike. I'll be switching to STI shifters, so I have to replace my brakes since Shimano STI levers don't work well with the existing v-brakes.

I am considering a pair of TRP CX9, Tektro RX6, or Paul's Mini Moto.  These should be compatible with my STI levers. However, due to a lack of information about this, I need to know why I would prefer cantilever brakes to the mini-v option?

Possible issues I was considering:
Do mini v-brakes have to sit closer to the rim? Will this cause me to slow down more when my wheel goes through an inch or two of mud?
Are the mini v-brakes going to be as effective at stopping? Will the modulation be poor, causing me to OTB more often when I try to stop suddenly?
Is there a large difference in tire clearance between mini v-brakes and cantilever brakes?

If it matters, I tend to ride a lot in the northeast/mid-atlantic region of the US and it gets really muddy here, so I doubt most races will involve a dry pack course.  I also tend to get out on to real trails and ride on mountain bike singletrack from time to time.


texts: Questions about shifting from a new road cyclist

texts:
I recently purchased a used bike from my local co-op. I've ridden previously on fixed bikes with straight bars, but this bike is the first one I've owned where I have to shift and use drop handlebars. I've been practising for the last two weeks or so, but am still uncomfortable with this. I have two big questions

1) I am having a lot of trouble simply keeping my bike steady with one hand while trying to shift. I am quite confident riding one handed and even shifting with one hand on the part where the handle bars curve out on the top, but have no control over my bike if I try riding one handed from the hoods. Its almost impossible for me to shift (with down tube shifters) and have a hand on the brakes just in case. It seems impossible for me to ride on the hoods and not have the handlebars carry a lot of my weight. I'm considering brifters just because then I'd never have to take my hands off the handlebars, but that'd be almost as much as I paid for the bike.

2) I have read that you are not supposed to shift while under load, but what about no load? I guess this partially stems from the fact that I'm not really comfortable shifting from the hoods, but I really have a hard time shifting and keeping control while still pedalling. Also, when I do shift while still pedalling, my foot sometimes comes off the pedal. Is there any way to prevent this without clipless pedals?


texts: I have road shoes but would like to also get a pair of shoes for flat pedals that still look like road shoes but have grip for the flat pedals etc..  Can anyone please suggest anything, thanks :)


texts:
So I have an old Winora City bike here and I am willing to spend a few hours in maintenance and repair of the bike. However, I am still a novice in the field and would like to gain some experience.

I feel the most urgent part to be replaced is the bottom bracket. The screw which holds the crank to the bracket constantly starts loosening itself on the left side. Loctite helped only temporary.

Concerning the parts I need to buy, I am very confused. First of all, a bike mechanic once told me the threads are BSA. The spindle is a square taper, J.I.S.-like, which can be seen here: Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Glossary. Contrary to most bikes, mine is with an outer thread and the brackets are held in place by a nut (no screw).

On the drive side there is a single gear, type Sugino 48

I am wondering right now how to replace the bottom bracket. But before starting and interrupting half way because I don't know how to proceed, I would like to ask you whether I am on the right track:

I presume that the first step is to disassemble the bottom bracket. For the drive side I found (as can be seen on the picture) that I have to use a pull tool.
Next, I need to precisely measure the length of the shell. It looks to me like a 68mm, but might as well be 70mm.
Then I can select a new set of spindle/bearrings. Am I restricted to those "cup and cone" bearring sets? Should I buy another type? What is a reliable and well-to-maintain solution here?


texts: Niner Biocentric I eccentric bottom bracket adapter won't budge

texts:
Niner Biocentric is the asymmetric bottom bracket adapter for a single speed.

Below is the II. I have the I. I could not find a picture of the I.

It is stuck. I have tried penetrating oil for days.  On side (drive) moves a little and the other no movement.

Any ideas on how to get it to free up?

Big hammer is not an option.

It used to move OK but it was squeaking a bit so I torqed it to spec and it froze up.

I am thinking about taking it apart but right now I cannot get my Raceface Evolve crank off.


texts: New carbon wheel brake pads after use on aluminum wheel?

texts: I have carbon wheels with the appropriate brake pads. During a race I flatted and quickly swapped wheels and finished the race. The wheel I used was aluminum, do I need new brake pads due to possible shards that will ruin my nice wheels or can I just clean them?


texts: Should replacing the rear derailleur on my 80s road bike with a Campy Nuovo improve shifting?

texts:
I'm considering replacing the Simplex SX410 derailleur for a Campy Nuovo Record on my early 80s Mercier (6-speed cassette).  Reason being that there has been for several years now a problem shifting from the 3rd to the 4th (and vise versa) one needs to move the friction shifter more than for the other changes.  Can I expect more precise shifting with the Campy?

I have recently changed the chain too. I have a SRAM pc830 now.


texts: Do you change from cycling clothes when out and about

texts: OK, fairly new to cycling, and looking at getting some cycling clothes. Question is do you change into different clothes if, for example you go in for a meal during a days cycling?


texts:
I would like to buy a used Rose Pro DX Cross bike (model 2014 or 2015) and its size is listed as being ST-56 cm and TT - 54 cm. I'm 178 cm in height and my inseam length is 79 cm. Do you think it's suitable for me? I don't want the top tube to hurt my groin when I dismount it to wait at traffic lights or anything like that. Thanks a million!

Best wishes,
Florin


texts: can i get a new suspension kit for a older mongoose XR-75

texts: I've searched but I can't find anything online. Is there a store I can go to or something?


texts: can i replace my rims 622x19 hybrid for a 622x17?

texts:
i have a bike my rear wheel was stolen here in DC. the original was a 622x19. i have one which is 622x17 my question. is that ok ans safety to use it on ky bike?
thank you.


texts:
My girlfriend has been having problems with her front shifter/derailleur since she got her bike. For some reason, moving the chain from the middle ring to the big ring at the front, is very stiff.

Her left shifter is an ST-EF50-7 (triple) like the one in this picture  and the front derailleur is a Shimano Tourney TX51 (top pull)

This is the cable routing to the front derailleur.

Her bike has been used just a few times, and I have inspected the cables and moving parts and everything seems to be ok. No rust, cables have been lubed just in case, etc. Front derailleur is properly adjusted (both low and high screws are set up properly). As long as you push the lever really hard, then everything shifts properly. Something that I have noticed is that in order to shift into a bigger gear, the shift lever has to be pushed quite a bit before it "clicks" and stays in the next gear.

When the cable to the derailleur is not attached to anything, the shifter lever moves smoothly, so I believe that the shifter is fine. It appears that just for some reason, the front derailleur has a very stiff spring that puts up too much resistance. Can anyone recommend me what to do? I'm believing that changing the front mech may be necessary in order to get it working properly.


texts: Can I use Shimano Ultegra 6800 BBR60 Bottom Bracket on 105 groupset

texts:
I have currently have a Shimano 105 (5700) 10 speed triple groupset. However the bottom bracket has started clicking and creaking leading to the end of its journey.

Am I able to use this Ultegra as a replacement?

I am not 100% sure but I think my current bottom bracket is this one


texts: What is the difference between a bike dock and a bike rack?

texts: Are the two terms synonymous, or are they different? I've always tend to refer to the "racks" at which you can lock a bike as a "bike rack," but recently, when I started to use bike rentals, I've been hearing more and more of "bike dock," e.g., "check out the bike at bike dock #6" or "please return the bike to bike dock #5," etc...


texts:
I just bought this bike, but it seems like the frame is not Bianchi, all marks and texts are stickers. Also, there are quite a few logos on the frame. Does anyone know which frame this is?

Thanks!


texts: I have an old cruising bike with 21 gears. A few months ago I was pedalling back home when my chain broke, and I was only able to get the chain replaced this week. After having it replaced I noticed it was 'skipping' and the problem seems to be more severe in certain gears. Now, the teeth are a 'bit' worn out (particularly in the middle gear at the front), and the 'skipping' didn't happen with the old chain (makes sense as the old one probably stretched a lot). Any idea what could be causing this?


texts: Does price have a huge impact on the quality of road bikes?

texts:
I want to buy a road bike but I have never had one. I have a limited budget and want to try triathlons. The good brands old bikes are really expensive. Even for a 25 years old bike I have to spend at least 450 Euros.

Surfing in the net, I found this bike on Amazon, which is in my price range.

The problem is that when I have asked "experts" they told me that you cannot buy a decent bike for that price, and this isnt a good bike. Can anyone give an advice? Can this bike be good or is the price determinant for a good quality bike?


texts: Is the Shimano SL-M590 shifter compatible with XTR RD-M900 rear derailleur?

texts: Shimano is known for making their high end components incompatible with their lower ranges (e.g. dura-ace 7400). How do they handle this on their mountain bike range? In my case, I'd like to run a RD-M900 or RD-M910 with a pair of SL-M590 shifters in a 9 speed configuration. Will there be any issues?


texts: Pros and cons of long and short derailleur cage?

texts:
I'm thinking of buying a new derailleur in the future, but I don't know what type of derailleur to buy, there's long and short cage derailleurs but is there any differences?

I'm not sure if this helps but I have a Shimano Dyna 3x chainring that I recently converted to 1x, by that I mean I've removed the highest and lowest gear. The current drivetrain I'm using has 32 teeth.


texts: Most effective pedal position to jump start from still situation

texts:
All other conditions (strenght, gear, etc.) being the same, what is the most efficient position of the pedals when starting from a still situation on a very short sprint (like crossing 10 meters wide road with a traffic light giving the start)?

I.e. I think that with the pedal on the highest point one can continuosly push for 180 degrees, but will start with a low torque, while with the pedal being horizontal one will start with the max torque but will then continue with reducing torque on just 90 degrees.


texts: Do I need a spacer between my cassette and freehub?

texts:
I am fitting a modern Shimano 10-speed Hyperglide cassette (CS-HG81-10) to an old Shimano 8 speed hub (FH-M565). Fortunately, it is long enough (approx. 35mm) to take 10-speed.

The hub came with a spacer and I am not sure if I should use it or not. I know that when fitting 9/10 speed to an 11 speed hub you should use a spacer, but I am going up from 8 to 10!

The spacer measures 1mm. I can fit all sprockets with and without the spacer, however with the spacer the final sprocket will extend slightly over the end of the hub.

How do I know if I need a spacer or not?


texts: I have a tire -standard 25 mm.  Normally I get tubes  700x20/25c which is what I ordered, but received 700x18x25c   will they fit and be ok?


texts: Brake pads from new dual pivot calipers dont reach the rim in the rear wheel

texts:
I bought a bike exactly like this one some time ago (bonvelo, a small company here in germany):

I wasn't really happy with the brakes so I decided to search for a good used ones. I found a good offer for the shimano 7800 BR and bought them.

I installed the front one without problems but the rear one is being a nightmare.

The problem: When I try to install the shimano brakes one pad reaches perfectly the rim but the other one (opposite side than the cable) does not reach the rim and collides with the rubber of the tire.

I can't find which model of brakes did the bike had, I can only see the brand written and it says promax.  Here are some photos of the two brakes:

I can't see what is wrong with the new ones, that doesn't allow the right side to reach the rim, because the height of both seems to be the same. The width of the tyre (28) should not be the problem as the front one works perfectly There is a washer that was in the old brakes but does't make any difference for this problem if I put it or not.

To show better the problem. This is the bridge:

This is the probem where the brake pad collides with the tire:

And here the brake pad reaches the rim if I have a little angle between the bridge and the brake, but I can tighten the brake in that position:

Is there anything I can do to install this brakes in this bike?


texts:
I am looking to swap from a Shimano 105 standard 53-39 crankset to a 50-34 compact crankset.
My question is: will I need to adjust the height of the derailleur when changing to the new crankset?
And what else do I need to be aware of while buying the new crankset for this swap? Will any shimano crankset fits with my shimano drivetrain? etc.
Also my old crankset is a 10 speed and the new one i’m looking to get is 11. But as far as i’m concerned it should works just fine, maybe a bit less smooth when shifting.
Thank you


texts: Replacing the largest sprocket in the cassette with a larger one?

texts:
Got this nice old bicycle as a gift from friends, and it has 7 sprockets in the cassette, plus a hub-gear mechanism with three gears (only two of these work though.)

To come to work I must ride about 7 km, last 2km are uphill, and the last 800m are the steepest. Even with the shifts setup at highest torque, I can manage the entire hill, but only pushing myself to my limits. I would like to have it a little easier.

Would it be a good idea to replace the largest cog in the cassette in this old bicycle with a larger one, so that the toughest uphill parts can become proportionally easier?

Some additional photos:
Bicycle photo album


texts: Shimano Nexus 3 coaster brake screeching sound

texts:
When I brake hard/er with my Shimano Nexus 3 coaster brake it makes a loud screeching sound. Like really loud, everybody on the street would hear it and turn around. Since I know it's all internal all I used to do was grease it up from the outside heavily with this banana organic whatever lube I had. That used to silence it a little but not entirely. It still made a very bad sound when braking very hard.

Basically - I need maintenance/lubrication instructions for a Shimano Nexus 3 Speed coaster brake. I only found a disassembly guide but no information on lubrication.

Anybody have any clue about this???

(the break is about one year old, I ride 5 miles every working day...so yeah, shouldn't be like that)


texts: Feeling of friction on back wheel. Wheel nuts on too tight?

texts:
The bike is an Avanti Discovery 8 which is a hybrid with a 8 speed Shimano in-hub gearing system.

The problem is I feel like there is definite friction on the back wheel. Spinning it freely it just doesn't travel as far as the front wheel and pedaling feels slightly impeded.

Obviously, brakes are easy to check and they're fine. There is no noise whilst coasting either, so I don't think it's the bearings.

I was wondering could it be something to do with the wheel nuts being too tight? I had a problem recently where the rear wheel was moving forward slightly causing slackness in the chain. I'd fix it, but it would keep happening so one day I really tightened it as hard as I could (the slack chain had come off causing me to crash).

Could this somehow be putting too much pressure on the hub?


texts:
I have some odd kind of track pedals on my bike. I believe they are clipless pedals; but for description, on one side they are flat and comfortable to pedal with. On the other side there is a raised hump in the middle that is a bit difficult to hop into the pedals quickly for fear of one's foot sliding off.

They are comfortable enough to ride with once I am off and going (though I have become proficient with nipping the pedal with my toe to get it on the right side). However, I would like to weight the pedals so that they rest with the hump side down naturally.

They are similar to these:

Please bear in mind I have already accepted that buying new pedals are probably a best option generally. However, in the interest of modding:

  No suggestions are too ugly or odd as
  long as they work and bear in mind the
  problem of pedal strike (thanks
  @Teddy); I am looking for a pragmatic
  solution above all - hopefully not
  involving too much duct tape!


texts:
Are Cane Creek Drop V levers compatible with road brake cables or MTB brake cables? Specifically, road cables and MTB cables have different nipples that sit in the brake lever, and I need to know which type these work with.

Anyone have experience with these brakes? I've searched for awhile, and have yet to find any reference to cable compatibility whatsoever.


texts: I would like to purchase a bicycle trailer, to take bottles to the depot and pickup stuff from the hardware store from time to time. What is a good one to get?


texts: Deore Derailleur w/ Tiagra STI Shifter Compatibility

texts:
I have Shimano Deore RD M591 Rear Derailleur (http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Deore-M591-9-SPD-Rear-Derailleur) that I am having trouble dialing in shifting when used with Tiagra 4700 2x10 STI shifters (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-tiagra-4700-2x10-speed-sti-shifter-set/rp-prod137777) and a SLX 11-36t 10 speed cassette. I was working off of the general hypothesis that a 9 speed mountain derailleur would have the same pull ratio as the 10 speed STI shifters. I can adjust shifting to work as needed for the first 3 highest gears, but then when I shift beyond that towards the "easier" rear cogs it is consistently skipping over a cog (from 3rd to 5th for example). This continues up to the 10th cog, shifting two gears for every one click of the shifter. If I adjust cable tension so shifting is smooth in the middle or low end of the gear range, it is then not accurate at the high end of the gear range.

My goal was to extend my climbing gear range as much as possible so I could take my winter/cyclocross frame and turn it into a gravel bike capable of climbing some steep Vermont dirt roads.

Any thoughts or ideas appreciated. Thanks!


texts:
I have this recurring problem on many of my fixed-gear builds where the non-drive-side crank arm starts to wobble and gets loose after a very short amount of time (sometimes after just a short ride where I skid stop a lot).
These are usually new crank arms, sometimes steel ones, they're not bottoming out and I'm liberally applying lock-tite to the threads of the bolt. The BB in the latest case is new as well, though I'm hearing a little grind with each rotation).
I don't have a torque wrench and if I did I wouldn't know how much force to apply anyway since I don't have specs for my parts, but I'm just wondering - what am I doing wrong (or NOT doing)? I don't want to overtighten (I've had seized cranks before) but other than just reefing on them, I'm not sure if there's anything else I should be considering (other than replacing the technician!!)


texts: Is component's thread torque a factor in how 'stiff' a bike rides? Would a racer want higher torque?

texts: Is higher pressure into the frame going to reduce vibration and hence improve stiffness?


texts: Must replacement crankset have the same number of teeth?

texts:
I have a Giant Boulder 520 (1996) and I am upgrading it bit by bit.

I bought a new Shimano 7 speed cassette 11-28T. Now, I want to replace my crank set, however I do not know which size to buy.

Does it have to have the same number of teeth as my current one or does it not matter? I currently have a 42/32/24 crank set, do I have to replace it with a 42/32/24 crank set to avoid having to replace the derailleur or anything else?

I am currently thinking of getting a Shimano crank set FCTY501 42/34/24 compatible with 6/7/8 speed. Will it work with my new cassette and will I need to adjust my derailleur?


texts: How to add resistance to my bike trainer?

texts: I use a crossbike (http://www.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake.cfm) on a bike trainer (https://www.amazon.com/Kinetic-Road-Machine-Fluid-Trainer/dp/B01KHE5B4S) and have the chain on the largest front ring and the smallest one on the back, but the resistance felt too low. What I can do to increase the load?


texts: Canyon Yellowstone 4.0 suitable for women?

texts:
About a year ago I bought a Canyon Yellowstone 4.0, just after moving to Germany. I found it was a relatively good bike for the money, I've had a great time on it and I use it mainly for getting around.

Here's a link to it (no longer available on the Canyon website).
http://controlbike.com/bike/2013-canyon-yellowstone-al-4-0

My girlfriend now wants to get herself a bike, and my bike fits her pretty well. Is it suitable as a bike for females? She's pretty comfortable on it although I will have to change the seat for her to a female seat.

Given this, would it be suitable for her to try to use or are there any glaringly obvious factors I have not considered?


texts:
I have a Diamondback Edgewood 26" hybrid bike.  I believe it is a 2008 model.  Mostly it's a great bike and it certainly serves my needs right now.

However,  the stem has become loose so the handlebars pivot on about a 75° axis.  Thus, the only way to ride it is to tilt it forward so it is flat - definitely not the most comfortable position.

The top and bottom screws are adjustable, but they don't effect this aspect of control.  The side screws are what I need to adjust - 4mm hex screws on both sides - and completely stripped.  If they made a 4.25 - 4.5mm hex bit, I might be able to get it out, but I don't think so.  It's pretty rounded.

So I'm probably gonna have to drill them out, and my question is twofold:

Can I replace just the screws - if so, with what?  How to know correct measurements?
Or failing that, is the stem replaceable and where can I find the right one?  I looked around  online, but I couldn't find anything that I was confident would be an answer to my question.


texts:
I'm replacing chains on a number of bicycles, and trying to decide what chains to purchase.  I'm a fan of Sram's master links, so I'm comparing the Sram PC-971 to the PC-991.  The PC-991 is considerably more expensive, but it seems like the lighter weight chain would make a significant difference in pedaling performance, because of the angular momentum involved.  Are my instincts correct, or is this just a sales gimmick on Sram's part?

Also, I've seen some reviews indicating that the hollow-link chains are prone to breakage -- is this something I should be concerned about?


texts:
In the process of getting the slack out of my rear brake cable, the "cap" on the insulated part of the cable pulled out of the barrel adjuster. While monkeying around trying to get that part of the cable to "catch" back inside, I backed the barrel adjuster all the way out of the handle and can't seem to get it back in--I may have stripped the threads. The brake is working fine; I went for a short ride and had no issues with it. My concern is that not having the cable seated inside the barrel adjuster long-term may cause some sort of damage and/or failure.

I think my best option may be to simply remove the barrel adjuster so it doesn't abrade the cable over time. Is there any danger/drawback to doing so? (As far I am aware, the main role of the barrel adjuster is just to fine-tune the tightness of the brake without tools being involved. I can live without this convenience.)


texts: How to replace broken chainring that is missing a tooth

texts:
I was going to ask if I need to replace it but I'm certain the responsible answer is yes (comments welcome). How do I find and replace the outer chainring?

Specifically find the right model or compatible part and the dummys checklist for doing the task at home, perhaps some good links. According to the Kona Cindercone 2011 specs the chainring is the 44 tooth "42/34/24" (incorrect spec) on a Shimano FC-M521 crank arm.

Notice how I haven't even worn off the stickers... yes I am a newbie who either broke the tooth tumbling off an intermediate trail, or worse still hopping a curb.


texts: What is causing my disc brakes to loosen when it rains?

texts:
I have Tektro Aquila disc brakes, and I have recently noticed that the brakes need tightening every time it rains. I don't see mention of this model in Are there any major outstanding recalls of bicycle parts?, nor does there appear to be a recall for Tektro brakes.

The brakes are about four months old, and have about two thousand kilometers on them, plus the barrel adjuster on one of them is most of the way out, so I suspect brake pad wear is a factor. I'm going to swap out the brake pads, but is there something else I should be looking for?

EDIT: I got done changing those pads and one of the worse offending pair was literally worn to the backing plate.


texts: What would cause a pedal to loosen from its spindle while riding?

texts:
I recently serviced an old pair of Wellgo platform pedals. They were already old and well-used by the time I got them, and they were slightly too loose, but useable. I rode on them for a few months before the slight rattle finally got on my nerves and I serviced them according to Sheldon's instructions on pedal maintenance. New loose bearings and plenty of grease.
Fast forward. A week or two ago I noticed the drive side pedal was loosening again. It didn't seem bad, so I put it on my mental bikes-todo.txt and continued on my merry way. Suffice it to say that I put off the repair job just one ride too long, and I ended up finishing yesterday's ride on foot. Whoops. It was dark outside, so I couldn't really tell what was going on until I got home and discovered that I had a pedal and a spindle, but no bearing cone, locknut, or dust cap - they are now flotsam on the side of the road somewhere.
So what happened? My best guess is that some part of the pedal assembly was greased too well or not well enough, causing the locknut to unscrew a tiny bit with every turn of the cranks. I followed the same process with both pedals, and the non-drive pedal has not loosened at all. What is the most likely culprit for this kind of adjustment issue, so I can be more careful with it next time I service pedals like these?


texts: What is the difference between 9sp and 10/11sp cranks/chainrings?

texts:
I have a 9sp setup I’m very committed to, mostly because I can’t find 10/11sp indexed downtube shifters (Dia Compe makes a non-indexed 11sp and that seems to be it). I want a new crank with swappable chainrings to support a 2x9 touring setup and a 1x9 city setup.
I assume the 10/11sp chainrings have different tooth thicknesses than 9sp chainrings. Please confirm that. I’ve also seen the cranks themselves specified as 10/11sp and I’m wondering if maybe the chainring positions are spaced differently than they would be on a 9sp crank. This is my main concern as it’s hard to find cranks specified for 9sp.


texts: Until recently, I had a late 80's Schwinn aluminum frame bike (now a thief has a 80's Schwinn aluminum frame bike, but that's another story). I had heard a number of horror stories about early aluminum frames--that the welds weren't properly done, or that the technology hadn't been perfected yet, that one should expect the frame to come apart any day, etc. I assume these kinds of rumors are being spread about carbon frames as well. Is there any hard evidence here? I know this is very hard to quantify because there were dozens of manufacturers, and there are/were lots of technologies being used. But is there any evidence, or is it just a cloud of Fear Uncertainty and Doubt?


texts: If the original lube that comes on new chains is so good, why don't we all just have a unified perfect chain lube?

texts:
See the following link to read about peoples opinions about new chain wax/lube (and when to remove it):
New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it before use?
Can we buy this chain wax/lube that Sheldon Brown(see Carson Reinke's comment in link above for quote) says we should not be removing from our new chains? Is there a perfect lube?
I do realize there are different lubes for different weather conditions and environments.


texts: Puncture resistant tire vs puncture resistant tube

texts: When would you use a puncture resistant tire vs. a puncture resistant tube?


texts:
I'm buying a Cannondale CAADX 105 Disc and I'm planning on installing a hub dynamo, perhaps an SP PD-8.

1.) I haven't done this before, but judging by what I have seen on YouTube: Get the new spoke length right, make sure spokes are "woven" in the proper order and then true the wheel. Are there any pitfalls where a newbie like me would think that everything was in order to leave me with an unpleasant surprise on the test ride or on my bicycle vacation?

2.) Since the nipples are brand new, is it sufficient to only buy new spokes?

3.) Would it be possible to buy a new wheel with the dynamo installed already? I have looked around but not managed to find anything other than very, very basic wheels with dynamos online.


texts: Why aren't Tour de France riders going any faster?

texts:
I was having a look at the average speeds of the winner of the Tour de France over the years on this page. To help things along I put the data into LibreOffice and produced a plot:

I put on the chart where clipless pedals came in, and I suppose the switch to carbon framed bicycles came in a few years after that (not sure exactly when). What really struck me though was that the average speeds really haven't changed much, especially in the last few years.

There was a big jump in the late 80's/early 90's, some of which could be attributed to the doping practices of the time, but not all of it. Doping of some form or another has been going on since the beginning of the TdF.

It seems really odd to me that given:

improved training
improved nutrition
improved technology

there is only roughly a 10% increase in speed since the 1960s and virtually none in the last decade.

Are we being defrauded by companies trying to sell us all sorts of products (carbon whatnots and sugary goo!)?


texts: bike for surfing: hybrid vs beach cruiser vs fat

texts: I’m looking for a bike to take my surfboard (6’6”) to local surf breaks.  I would be biking 1-4 miles on a concrete or asphalt beach path that gets some sand on it.  What’s a good bike for this purpose? Hybrid? Beach Cruiser? Fat?


texts:
Money's been a bit tight lately for a number of reasons and I commute 2 hours a day on my bike for work. Slowly, but surely my bike has taken a toll and I REALLY need to do some light maintenance on it. At the moment now, my bike wheels (rims?), due to a crash, are bent and it looks like it's unnaturally pressing against my tires. They wobble and it's much more noticeable when going fast, but other than that I do not see any issues with it. The other major repair is my brakes are completely out. The do not work at all. The method I use to slow down is to put my feet out and drag them well into advance if I even think I need to stop. The problem with this, is very obvious as it is rather dangerous and it is quickly eating the soles of my shoes which I cannot replace those either at the moment.

As much as I would like to take public transportation or get a ride, that is out of the question. I am too far out and none of my coworkers are willing to drive roughly an hour out for me. There is no public transportation near my home, so I have to actually ride a good distance to a bus stop inside of the city.

I managed to sell what little I own as I only need to survive for less than two weeks to get paid and have proper repairs done, but in the meantime, which one of the two repairs should I have done, wheels or brakes?


texts:
It's been 3 months since my bike accident, I've had at least 10 critical accidents. Sometimes I don't even know how I am alive. Recently, I had a bike crash when going down the hill which broke of 2 of my 2 front adult tooth. When I fell, my face scraped against the rough terrain, i was unconscious after accident, I had to undergo major surgery on the bottom half my face, My lips had a hole straight through it (enough for a thick pen to be put).

My face has recovered but every time I walk down the hill (everyday), I think of everything that happened that day. The worst thing is the amount of blood from my face on the floor hitting my memory again and again . It shakes me out.

My parents are telling me not to ride again ( I'm 19) but whats the fun in that. I'm trying to build the confidence but its sooo hard.  Also bike became "un- ridable"

Any tips? What bike next? had mountain bikes before, thinking of road bike but doesnt seem like a great idea.


texts: Can you shift both the front and back gears simultanously?

texts: Is it advisable to shift both the front and back gear simultaneously? Can this cause any damage?


texts:
I have had my bike for about 2 months now and about 2 weeks in the rear brake stopped working properly and I thought it just needed a bleed. The shop assistant showed me that my disk had oil on it however I have no idea how it got there. He was nice enough to replace my pads for no cost.

About 1 and a half month on I'm having the same problem on my front and rear brakes now and they're about to charge me £35 per brake just for new pads and service charges.

Why is there oil on my disks. I am not touching the disk or dropping items on the disk and my bike is stored in my living room covered with plastic away from any liquids or any contaminants.

The back brake is okay but it lacks braking power. The front brake lever comes about 2cm away from my grip before locking out fully. However when I pump it a few times it works but as soon as I stop pumping it resets which is a pain as that means it takes me at least 5 seconds to even engage the front brake.


texts: Does anyone manufacture a seatless bicycle?

texts: I need to stay fit and cycling is a great non-impact exercise. I don't see the point in sitting when cycling, instead I rather standing as such as it creates a better form of exercise. Are there any bicycles that are designed without a seat specifically for this purpose?


texts:
I have a RS Revelation dual air fork. It's new, never used before. I installed it and after a few days I noticed, that it loses air. Maybe 20-30 psi over night. So at morning it's just too soft and have a sag around 40% (way too much).
Air leask from both positive and negative chambers.

Is it normal for this fork or should I check any specific parts of this fork?
Please note, that there's no RS service center in my city or anywhere nearby and I would prefer to fix problems (if any) by myself.


texts: How to you remove the seal from a Deore XT FH-M8000 freehub?

texts: When first installing (or overhauling) Shimano rear hubs, I usually pull the freehub, lift the seal off the back side (where the splines are that engage the hub body) and then heat the freehub with a heat gun. When the old lube flows out, I drip in enough Phil's Tenacious oil to keep the things utterly silent. I love silent coasting. I have had no trouble doing this with Deore LX freehubs and others, but the FH-M8000 XTs I've got don't seem to want to give up the seal. Usually, gently picking the rubber seal with a large (not too sharp) sewing needle lets you pop it right off, but these don't seem to want to budge. Anyone out there pull one of these rear seals and know how it's done?


texts: Does this carbon fork have a crack in it that would make you replace it?

texts: Hello, I dropped the bike from standing and also had a front end collision later. The damage is from dropping the bike from standing because I can see the crack in a much older photo from after the collision. It has not changed much. However, I get worried it is suddenly going to bust on me and I am not very experienced with carbon fiber. Thanks. A bike shop has looked at it and ok'd it, but I am still concerned when going down hills.


texts:
I would like to start riding gravel rally events like these:

http://www.dirtyboar.be/

https://www.dirtyreiver.co.uk/

So far the maximum I did like this was about 3 days doing 60 km a day on similar terrain. I feel I could have done more, but not 100% sure on how I would end up if I did 200 km straight.

So my question is, how should one train for these kind of events before signing up?


texts: When do I know the drum brake is at the end of life and needs replacement?

texts: I have a city bicycle with a drum brake. Since the braking parts of the system are inside the drum I can't see if it is worn out or not. Are there any indicators that give that information or at least an hint? (e.g.: squeaking sound, some marker on the drum, whatever...)


texts:
Pedals are obviously a critical interface with the bike. A broken pedal axle would be catastrophic, most likely causing injury or even death, especially considering that pedal failure would really only occur during massive impacts. In light of this, is there a standard for how strong pedals and pedal axles have to be? Are road/XC pedals necessarily weaker than their burlier MTB counterparts? I've never seen a pedal marketed with a maximum load rating or anything. Pedal breakage, although rare, does occasionally occur for reasons other than manufacturing defects, so it is a valid concern.
Hypothetically (or in real life!), would I be able to safely ride a road pedal down Red Bull Rampage or some other similar event with gigantic drops and jumps?
What about other components of the pedal interface? The threads? The threaded insert in a carbon crank? How about the cranks themselves?


texts: Can you help me identify the year of my specialized frame by serial number?

texts: I have a Specialized Stumpjumper Sport. trying to figure out what year. Does anyone know how to identify by the serial number? I believe it is an 86 or 87.


texts: What are the Pros/Cons of a 2.1 vs 2.3 wide Mountain Bike Tire

texts:
Time for new Tires on my Mountain bike.

I'm currently running a 2.1 (26").

What are the benefits of the 2.3?

I'm guessing:

you can run it at lower pressure and get some of the benefits of a tubeless (more traction) with the downsides (increased rolling resistance)
higher weight.


texts: How can I properly replace the hose on this older Schwinn pump?

texts:
I have the following Schwinn bike pump. It’s pretty old, perhaps 30 years or more. I like it a lot.

Some years ago, I changed to Presta valves; for this I needed a new head. I got a Topeak SmartHead Bicycle Floor Pump Upgrade Kit, which is a replacement head and hose with a number of different adapters. Unfortunately, none of them fit this pump, so I just hacked off most of the worn-out stock hose and spliced in the Topeak hose (one of the adapters is designed for this).

Every so often, the splice begins to leak because the stock hose cracks a little. This is easily repaired by cutting off another 5mm and re-splicing, but obviously that's not sustainable.

Here are some close-up views of the threads, and also the gauge for ID purposes. That's a AAA battery for scale.

My question is: where can I find something that will screw into the threads in the base of the pump and somehow lead to a modern Presta pump head?


texts: What method or algorithm is used for computing power curve on Strava?

texts:
Many cycling analytics apps like Strava, TrainingPeaks or GoldenCheetah are offering the critical power curve chart, computed from the power meter data.
I'm familiar with the curve meaning and usage, but I'm curious how the curve is computed from the time series.  I guess it is a more general statistical method, but my search for the literature with method description was not successful so far.


texts: Okay to use new KMC master link on old KMC 11spd chain?

texts:
I took my 11spd KMC bike chain off a few days ago to give it a good cleaning and re-mounted it to the drivetrain using a master link and park tool master link pliers. I must have not set it correctly because as soon as I went for my ride and turned the pedal the chain broke at the master link and I lost one of the pins attached to the master link.

I removed both pieces of the master link inspected the chain for bent or broken links. It looks good, I had a spare 11spd KMC master link that I fitted in the same spot and road around with no issue.

Is this something that is okay to do or now that I've had to replace the master link has the integrity of the chain been compromised?

Thanks!


texts: Bicycle left outside for over a year. Possible to save?

texts:
Two years ago I was knocked off my bicycle by a car and was too scared to cycle for a long time, and left my bicycle outside uncovered for over a year. That was a mistake.

Now, WD-40 applied to the chain did not help much. The chain still won't bend. I think cleaning it won't be possible, I will replace it. But how about the rest? I have no idea what I will have to do to make it work or if it is even possible. Do I have to replace anything else apart from chain and cables?

These are the bicycle specs.


texts: Big crack on my Schwalbe Marathon Plus tire

texts: Is it still safe to ride the below tire, or should I replace it?


texts:
How do I figure out if this bicycle would be a decent height for a person that is 5 feet 8 inches in height?

http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Cruise-height-80912352293/dp/B015QV2A2S


texts: Don't like upright position so which bike should I choose?

texts:
Hi I used to cycle quite a lot and about 26 years ago bought a men's trek singletrack 970 which I loved. That eventually got stolen, and I haven't ridden for many years, but when I tried out some bikes at the beginning of the year they all felt like I was sitting upright which just felt wrong!

I think times have changed with bikes (and I'm older so maybe not so flexible but hopefully don't have to go to a ladies bike yet!) But I would still like to try that geometry before I give up! Any ideas of brands/models that might recreate that position?


texts:
I have an old French Peugeot 12 speed (pbn) that I would love to have an easier (is that how I say?) lowest gear? The hills on southern France really kills my knees today.

The freewheel says atom 77 and the hub says Maillard 1989. Its 14 - 24 tooths. Would it be possible to change the freewheel to a 28 toots or will I need to upgrade everything then?

I read on Sheldon Browns web page that many derailleurs could handle 28t and that freewheels were available to buy (~30usd). IF it wasn't a French thread freewheel. Can I know that without opening it an measure the threads?

Thanks in advance!


texts: Will a bashboard and 3 chainrings require longer bolts?

texts:
Following on from Could I use a FD-M735 with a FC-MC3x?, I noticed that that the Shimano FC-MC36 crank with this unusual bash board fitted, only has one chainring.

Would I be able to get the three ring set and fit it, as well as the bash board, to the crank arm, using the existing bolts? Would the bolts be long enough, to accomodate the additional thickness of the bash board, or would longer bolts be required?

Here's a three ring set (image taken from eBay):

Note that the chain guard is fitted to the three ring set in a different manner, hence my question:

The chain guard is fitted to the outer ring, rather than the crank arm bolts.


texts: How many years an aluminium frame lasts in a touring bike?

texts:
How long does an aluminium frame lasts in a touring bike?

[Removed extra questions to be clear.]

Background

So far I preferred aluminium vs. steel for many reasons, but if steel lasts significantly longer, for my next touring bike I will go for steel.

My Cannondale Badboy 2004 has a crack in the alu-frame. I was surprised by this, I thought my bike will last 20+ years easily. The workshop they said this is a high quality, strong frame, but after 10 years alu frames can get tired. Especially if I use my bike both in winter and summer, as the heat change wear alu faster. They say it can be welded, which will cost significantly less vs. a new frame (if it is available), but I should be prepared for other cracks to appear. The workshop contracts a welder specialized in bike frame welding and repair.

I also found a scientific research article on this topic. If someone has access to ScienceDirect (Cicero et al. (2011): Analysis of the cracking causes in an aluminium alloy bike frame), I'd be interested in the conclusions.

I'm interested in touring bikes, not road bikes, city bikes, etc.

I'm happy to update/clarify my question if needed, make a comment.

Topics I have researched:

Maintenance on an Aluminium frame
Which type of frame is better for a touring bike, steel or aluminium?
Is it possible to repair a dent on an aluminium frame?
What are the pros and cons between an aluminium and carbon frame?
Is torque relevant for steel/aluminium? Where do I find torque specs?
non-steel frames and longevity
http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/aluminum-welding-cracked-frame-134600.html
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/repairing-a-cracked-frame

Crack in the alu frame near the rear axe (the bike is upside down):


texts: How can I prolong the life of my bottom bracket bearings?

texts:
I have a bike with Campy components. I've found I need to replace the bottom bracket bearings annually, which is expensive and inconvenient. I do less than 2000km per year on it, largely through winter and spring. They are sealed bearings, but not cartridge style.

Is this unusual? How long would you expect the bearings to last?

My bike shop says a lot of water and gunk get in the bottom bracket and just sits there, causing damage to the bearings. How does the gunk get in there? How would it get out? Should there be a drain hole somewhere?

EDIT: To clarify, I only ride on the road and sealed trails. So I'm dealing with water and silty/sand from the road/tracks only.

EDIT: The symptom that indicates the bearings need replacing is noise. I get a clicking or ticking in the bottom bracket and take it to the shop. It seems to be a noisy bike... I've also had to replace the rear freehub bearings a few times and other causes of noise. So I'm not usually sure enough to replace the bearings, but I take it to the shop and ask them to figure out where it's coming from.


texts: Saddle getting in the way when cornering on MTB - what to do?

texts:
I am practicing the technique of cornering, where one must lean the bicycle into the turn, while keeping the body more or less vertical. A (possibly exaggerated) picture I found on Google:

The problem is, when keeping the pedals horizontal, I always ride with my left foot ahead of the right one (like the guy on the picture does). When I turn left (like in the picture), everything is OK. But when I turn right, the saddle gets in the way (you can imagine it by looking at the picture - if he turned right, the saddle would push his right leg out of place).

What can I do about it? The following works but is not ideal:

Switch the legs when changing turning direction - inconvenient because I am used to the "left foot ahead" posture, and also because changing too often throws me off-balance
Remove the saddle - works very good, but then my legs don't rest, and get tired very quickly


texts: Why are crankset "sizes" often defined by the amount of cassette sprockets?

texts:
For example: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/components/road/category/crankset.html

Almost all of the listed cranksets have sizes listed as 2x11/3x10/3x9 - why does the amount of cassette sprockets matter when buying a crankset?

Is it physically impossible to pair, for example, a 3x10 crankset with an 11-speed cassette?


texts: What is the difference between a horizontal top tube and a sloped one?

texts:
Some comparable bicycles have a crossbar (top tube) that's horizontal:

Others have one that's sloped:

What are the reasons for either frame design? Is it merely style preferences? Or is there more to it, like performance and comfort?

(Assume a men's frame.)


texts: How do you use a power meter to pace yourself during steep hill time trial events?

texts: The events in questions are no longer than one kilometer and have a gradient that fluctuates between 7% and 13%.


texts: The new Copenhagen wheel - a worthwhile investment?

texts: I've been looking to reduce how much I sweat on my commute to work, and I've been looking into electric bicycles. Upon looking, I saw the copenhagen wheel: an all-in-one electric bicycle conversion kit. I'd prefer to go with the most cost efficent method. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it more practical to buy a complete electric bike or to use a conversion kit?


texts: How do I make the platform side of a Shimano PD-A530 multi-purpose SPD pedal less "slippery"?

texts: The lock side is great, however, shoes does not stay on the platform side. Your leg always slip out from the pedals during pedaling. Any solution to improve it?


texts: Protecting carbon bike frame after a small chip?

texts:
My bike frame is carbon and it recently got a small chip. It's about the size of a pinky fingernail in size. Should I do anything to treat the chip to help prevent it from getting worse?

Here's a photo of the chip, hopefully this helps narrow things down.


texts: How long is chamois cream meant to be effective?

texts:
In the context of long rides*, how often is chamois cream meant to stay useful (whether measured in hours,km or whatever)?  I typically don't carry it on the road, but wonder if a top-up might make the end of a ride more comfortable.

*To give a example of what I mean by "long": my longest single day ride so far was just under 20 hours/just over 400 km)


texts: How can I fix the hook of a weather proof pannier?

texts:
I have a pair of Mainstream panniers (msx sl 55) but the rivet that holds the hook on the bag fell off. You can see it on images outside and inside

How can I fix it while maintaining it weather proof?


texts: I was pedaling my bike, the bike has never been used and sat in the garage through winter. While I was pedaling I switched gears and adjusted the pressure I needed to pedal (don't know what this is called) and the chain slipped and when I pedal now it makes  like a scratching noise and the chain doesn't move. I've put the chain back on multiple times but if I pedal a few  times it happens again I'm 17 and know nothing about bikes. Any help?


texts: How to change a Gary Fisher Kaitai Dual Sport to be faster on the road?

texts: I have a Kaitai dual sport and I love the bike however, I find myself doing a lot more road riding than off road riding and am looking for things I can do to the bike that will help road rides.  I ride with another person who has a road bike and it is MUCH more efficient.  I can easily ride 5mph faster on that bike with minimal effort.  Would it be possible to change out the tires?  Tires and rims?   Something so I can more easily keep pace, without having to buy a new bicycle?


texts: Is there a route-planning tool that clearly indicates tunnels?

texts:
I'm planning a ride (Strava route) in the Alps, and I know there are some tunnels in the area.  Coincidentally by taking the old road I'm planning to avoid the ones I know about.

I'd like to have a decent amount of rear light showing when I enter the tunnel, but don't have enough battery to have it running all day (it's a 200 km ride).  I'm also not likely to be able to find a safe place to pull over and turn on a rear light when I know there's a tunnel coming up.  So in an ideal world I'd run my high-power rear light for any stage of the route that has tunnels (and I'm likely to be stopping reasonably often).  The front isn't an issue as I can switch that while going along, but my (good Lezyne) rear light is in a fiddly place and has a fiddly switch requiring a long-press. I'll have a back-up on my helmet that I can easily press while going along but can't confirm that's on while riding.

Cue sheets from Strava and Google Maps don't mention tunnels, and so far I've been following the route in one window and examining it on OpenStreetMap in another.  If I plan further rides while I'm out there, I'll only have a small screen to check, and some are subtle or hidden under place names. Is there a better way?


texts: There is a very loud screeching noise when i pedal hard on the down stroke. Be it moving off or climbing up a hill. It is not coming from the front wheel, which i originally thought came from brake rubs, because when the sound still arises when i put my bike on the trainer. i am pretty sure it comes from the bottom bracket and only arises when i pedal hard. if i am coasting at 30kmh, there are no sounds, but if i pedal hard to raise the speed, then the loud screeching noises will arise again. please help! thanks


texts: How do experienced cyclists know which gear they are in without an optical display?

texts: Most mid to high level mountain groupsets (eg SLX and X7) have shifter options without any display as to what gear is currently active. How do riders avoid cross-chaining and other unpleasantnesses, especially when riding in the dark or on rough terrain (i.e. when they can't readily take a look at the rear cogs)?


texts: Had a rough off and many spokes in front and rear wheel are broken or badly damaged, so I'm just going to do a full spoke replacement.  Does anyone either have a set of Easton Haven Carbon 26" that they could pluck the spokes on and give me pitches for drive side and non drive side for both front and rear wheels so I can work my way toward a full rebuild, or even better, knowledge of Easton's build process for these wheels from scratch.  Apparently this involves tensioning the drive side spokes first, then non drive to pull to center, then final truing, but what is the initial tension/pitch that the drive side spokes need to come to?  Thanks for checking out my question, hoping to get these rebuilt before the riding season peters out here in the NE, cheers!


texts: What are the pros and cons about building a bike from scratch vs. buying it new?


texts: What to do if you are about to get doored?

texts:
I was talking to a bike messenger the other day, and he said something that surprised me: If you see a car door swing open in front of you and you can't avoid it, pull your hands off the handlebars and take the full impact. He said you won't lose any fingers this way.

Is this true? Is there a safer way to collide with a door?


texts: Packaging a bike for flying with a bike bag

texts: I am doing a cycle tour of Japan starting from Fukuoka and ending in Tokyo. I will be flying with the bike and as my start and end points differ I will not have the opportunity to use a box (unless anyone has any ideas?). I will most likely use one of these bags and I have been told by the airline that nothing is necessary by way of packing the bike but I would naturally like to see my bike in one piece at the other end. The bike is a Specialized Tricross with disc brakes. Does anyone have any pointers as to the safest way to package something like this. I think I will definitely take the rear dérailleur off and wrap bubble wrap along the length of the bike to protect the wheels, pedals etc but other than that I'm not sure what lengths to go to. Does anybody have any experience or ideas?


texts:
Are disc brakes better, more durable etc. than the more traditional Cantilever / V type brakes?

I have been considering choosing a new bike with disc brakes, but I have seen mixed reviews on whether or not they are really better or are just something that looks cool?

Thanks


texts: How long should I expect handlebar tape to last?

texts: I assume that if handlebar tape is grimy, torn, or peeling, it should be replaced. How long should I expect handlebar tape to last before it needs to be replaced? How often do most cyclists replace handlebar tape?


texts: Is there a guide available for determining pedal/cleat combinations?

texts:
I bought a Kona Coiler mountain bike at an estate sale, and the sellers didn't have any information about the pedals on it. I'm looking to buy some shoes and cleats, but I'm not sure what to buy because I haven't been able to identify the proper cleats for the pedal.

When I've ridden mountain bikes in the past, the pedals were the "egg beater" type, which these pedals definitely are not.

If someone can identify the pedal type from the photo, that would be helpful. Even better would be a link to some sort of guide I can use in the future to identify pedals and match them to the appropriate cleat.

Here are the pedals in question (the nickel is there for scale):


texts: Help with replacement tire and tube for little girls bike

texts:
Good Morning,

My 4 yr old received an old bike from one of the neighbors today, unfortunately both tires are flat and cracked and there may be damage to the inner tubes as well.

I am not able to go to a bicycle store to have them replaced. So i figured I would try and replace both myself, as I found some DIY youtube videos on how to do the process.

The challenge I am facing now is finding the correct parts to do it.

On the tire itself it says a size of 18 x 1.95, I was able to find a tire for this size on Amazon (Amazon Link). The original tires on my daughters bike look different though, a little research told me the original tires are mountain bike tires, by the looks of it. But my daughter will only be riding her bike on the road/side walks so I am assuming this tire I found on Amazon will be sufficient.

Now I am trying to find a tube for this tire, but cannot find a tube with a 18 x 1.95 size. I am even thinking that maybe I am looking for the wrong size tube for this tire size.

I have never changed a bike tire nor a tube in my life and would appreciate any assistance in locating a compatible tube for this tire.

Also if someone could tell me if this type of tire that I found on Amazon is suitable for the road/side walks.

Appreciate any help I can get.

Kind Regards,
Andrea