texts:
Phrased towards someone looking to purchase a new commuter bike, I prioritize a quiet smooth ride when possible.  One of my past issues is that bikes are often great on the test ride but pretty quickly develop a lot of "personality."  Are there some recommendations as to which components or brands are the quietest without too much sacrifice of functionality?

(Note: No, I am not planning illicit bike-behavior!)

Gearing:  I expect a fixed gear would win by far, but that's not really my interest. Other than that, will fewer gears produce best results?

Hub:  My old Raleigh freewheel actually had a beautifully quiet ratchet (softer than most cassettes I hear), but it took me a while to find one that doesn't start clicking after a few rides.  Is there a type/brand of cassettes which will do better?

Shifters:  I've been using downtube shifters which are great- no "click click THUNK".  But if they don't line up just right (user error) they can be a loud bother.

Tires:  Best results I've found are totally smooth tires.  Does width/pressure affect this much?

Brakes:  I've not had a bike with anything but hub brakes.

Accessories:  Racks are out.  Fenders are iffy, but removable is best, noise doesn't matter much in the rain!  Of course an item to make noise for when I need it :).


texts: What does MSL stand for with Rocky Mountain carbon bikes?

texts: I see the carbon fiber bikes from Rocky Mountain bikes use MSL in their branding (up until 2016, at least). What for the letters stand for?


texts: Carbon frame chipped by chain - how to repair?

texts:
I found out my chain is damaging my frame near the cassette. How can I repair this?

It was damaged by my cassette in the indoor trainer which I am not using anymore.
This is how it looks:


texts: So, my neighbors husband passed and gave this to me. He was an avid rider. What am I looking at? Across the frame, looks like a sticker that once said Peddle Power on it with Shimano XT gear all around.


texts: Does anyone have any leads on what make/model/year of frame this is? I spotted this bike last summer and it's been nagging at me ever since. I love the design and am trying to track down who is responsible for it. I am not a frame connoisseur by nature, so am hoping to enlist the help of those who are.


texts: Can I change a 26" to a 24" tire on a Huntington Schinn Women's tire?

texts: I recently purchase a  Huntington Cruiser by Schwinn. The standard tires are 26". I am new to cycling and am having a hard time finding information regarding tires and frames. I would like to change out the tires to a 24" to be more comfortable (I am 5ft and the bike is already at it's lowest on the seat setting). The frame sits fine and I feel comfortable with the angle, I just think smaller tires would help me out with balancing more.


texts: Indexed rear derailer shifts two cogs for each step

texts:
I'm trying to troubleshoot poor shifting issues on a mountain bike that appears to have been built out of the spare parts box…

The current problem is "instability" on the rear derailer – the chain bounces around and is very hard to get to settle into gear. The original setup was a SunRace M40 derailer paired with SunRace twist grip shifters and a Shimano 8-speed cassette. The chain measures closer to 7-speed than 8-speed (0.285" a bit over 7.2 mm).

On the SunRace website the M40 derailer is described as being 7-speed. So I figured that I might have found the problem (7-speed indexing steps paired with an 8-speed cassette), so I tried fitting an NOS SRAM 5.0 8-speed twist grip shifter (which, according to the instructions that came with them, are Shimano compatible). However, after reading @Chris in AK's comments below, and failing to find any definitive marks on the shifter, I actually measured the cable travel using the information I found in this article on drive train compatibility and it looks like the SRAM grip shifters are ESP (1:1) as the cable movement is slightly more than 4 mm / click.

The good news is that the shifting seems to be more stable, the bad news is that it reliably shifts two cogs for each clink (e.g., I move the shifter from the 8 position to the 7 position and the chain moves to the #6 cog).

Any ideas about what could be going on?


texts:
As part of a bike rebuild I'm working on, I replaced the old cantilever brakes with new Shimano V-brakes.

The problem is that the new front brake doesn't seem to fit with the wheel.
The rim walls are relatively low compared to brake pads and the brake pads can't go any lower. In fact where they sit now is also problematic because it's always touching the rim walls.

Attached is a photo of the bike.

Update: It's a 28/700c Villiger frame. I double checked it.


texts: What are the advantages and disadvantages of turbo trainers and rollers?

texts: In a previous question I asked what I need to know about turbo trainers, but several answers mentioned the use of rollers. What are the pros and cons of turbo trainers and rollers?


texts:
This screw goes thru the frame (downtube) to hold two shimano 7speed (indexed) shifters.
Apparently, one of the bolts is screwed and needs to be replaced.
Problem is that the guy who owns the bike doesn't know where to search since we do not know the name for this weird mount, nor when it was produced or how to get one of those.

I thought i might find help here?
Possibly an idea for how to replace it?

Update:
A friend of mine has a lathe and will just make a new bolt.


texts:
I have been looking around bikes for a while tried about 10 bikes already and rode about 10 miles on each of them and I think I have come to a conclusion about which one to buy (or did I?)
But the question is when is the best time to buy a new bike.
I assumed that Winter is the best time because most of the people are not riding and companies are trying to sell the old stock off to restock.

So I had made up my mind to buy a certain bike but then heard from the LSB fall is the best time because this is the last price they would reduce on their bikes.
So are they right?
Should I get my bike now or should I wait till winter to see the prices going down further?
I live in Chicago

Any comments and suggestions are appreciated

Thanks in advance


texts: Replacing quick release wheel with ebike - motored wheel

texts:
I intend to upgrade my FireFox Sniper V to electric, by replacing the front wheel with a motorised kit wheel.
My question is that the wheels (both) are quick-release: is it safe to motorise this bike.

! - the motorised kit wheel is bolt on type.


texts: Could I bike 9 mile a day home from work starting with no current exercise?

texts: I am thinking of getting a bike and biking it home from work on a mountain bike its 9 miles and reasonably flat, I'm not the fittest guy so I'm wondering if I would struggle??


texts: Can a Reynolds 753 aero fork steerer tube be unbent?

texts:
I was hit by a car and now the steerer of my Reynolds 753 aero fork is bent.

Is it possible to bend them back? Would that be safe?

I can't afford a new pair!


texts: Inconsistent shifting issues after changing wheel

texts:
I recently got myself a cheap pair of 650B Wilkinson wheels to train on.   After doing 50+ miles over 8 weeks, I'm having shifting problems when I change over to my WTB knobbly.

The shift is inconsistent at best. I noticed it appears the chain is slipping. The chain indicator does say it's 0.75% worn. but my bike is fairly new. I probably done at absolute most 100 miles on that chain between the two  wheelsets.  I have tried playing with  the cable tension to no avail.

Why has it worn so quickly?

Do I just need one chain for each wheelset since ones a road cassette and the other is mtb?


texts: Need help with putting together a mountain bike

texts:
I am thinking about building a new mountain bike but I'm not really sure what I need. I found a used Giant Anthem Advanced Carbon Mountain Bike Frame and I want to put disc brakes and Fox shocks on it. But the problem is I'm not sure what fork to get.
If anyone could help me, that would be great.

Here is the bike.


texts: What are the minimum requirements to commute comfortably through the winter?

texts:
What needs to change on my bike? I have an 80's Schwinn Traveler single speed conversion.

What needs to change with my clothing? I just wear regular street clothes now.

I'm looking for the minimum requirements to commute comfortably through the winter. I am open to modifying my summer bike but not if it is likely to get ruined. I am open to buying a "beater" specifically for winter. I can bring my bike inside at home, but not at work. I'm in NYC.


texts: Difference of bottom bracket cup materials: resin, plastic, metal

texts:
Bottom bracket cups are made of different materials. What are the pros and cons of the materials? What experiences do you have with them?

The metal could be problematic due to galvanic corrosion
Plastic might get brittle by time due to light, heat and dirt

This is my experience from other domains, though I don't have experience with resin.

E.g. for plastic I can think of pro = easy to remove by sawing and breaking it out if it's stuck and con = getting brittle due to to the environment. One more pro might be that it breaks by too much torque instead of ruining the threads. On the other hand, when I broke it this way, it causes more headache to remove the remainder. :)


texts: What can be used to replace a Shimano 105 5600 long-cage derailleur?

texts:
I have a Fuji CCR3 with a triple in front, 9-speed casette in back.  It came with a Shimano 105 5600 derailleur, but no local shops stock those.  I've also been told that the 5600/5700 are 10-speed derailleurs and shouldn't be used on 9-speeds (though they can, they just don't work very smoothly).

So, what should I replace my (broken) derailleur with?


texts: Train cycling legs for a long walking trek

texts:
Cycling is my sport. I'm training for a multi-day ride (four days). Each day will we be hard riding but not too long. The week before the event however I'm going on a four day trek with a 20kg backpack.

I'm happy to lose some form for the event and have a great time treking with friends. However the last time I did a trek like that my legs were toast for a whole week afterwards. The uphills were a breeze but it was the 20km downhill that killed me. My legs are made for pushing pedals, not going downhill!

Any advice on the minimum amount of training to survive the walk and be good to go for the cycling event?


texts: Can anyone identify this freewheel type?

texts:
When googling the types it seemed to most closely match a Atom/Regina but it has 25 24 teeth and is about 3.5cm across. It's from a 1980s Raleigh road bike. But the bike has had a lot of work done to it so this part might not be original.

Thanks for any help


texts:
I am about to get my first carbon bike next spring, it's a MTB with a carbon frame with some aluminium components.

What are the things I should do and should not do, to avoid damaging it by improper maintenance? I see other threads here about people having problems with stuck seatposts an other, a compilation of all this knowledge plus additional tips would be welcome.


texts: As stated in my previous question, I am still trying to find the size of my flange nut on my seatpost. I need a new one because the old one was worned out. I bought a 3/8-16inch g/8 flange nut off of ebay and it was way too big for the bolt. I have reposted the pictures over here and hoped that someone can help me determine the flange nut size and where to buy it. Btw, due to covid19, I am trying to stay home so I hope to be provided with online help. Thanks to those who previously answered my question and I hope for more answers here. Any answers or comments with be appreciated. Thanks!


texts: What size rear axle and cones for 1999 Schwinn Cruiser 6?

texts: What size rear axle and cones fit a 1999 Schwinn Cruiser 6 bicycle. I cannot find a part number or identifier, is it the same size as BMX parts?


texts: I'd like to buy a repair stand, but I can never seem to convince myself to drop the $100 minimum it seems I'd need to spend.  Has anybody had any success building a stand themselves, or is it worth it to just buy one?


texts: What size chain for Shimano CS-M7771-10 (11-36T) cassette?

texts:
What width chain is compatible with this cassette?
I've seen non-Shimano chains online claiming compatibility with all Shimano 10-speed cassettes but their stated widths (nominal? actual?) don't have the same width as the Shimano 10-speed chains, though I'm not sure if even they are compatible with this cassette. So I clicked on the QR code of the little sheet of paper inside the box and opened the Shimano "users manual" (UM-1M90A-003). It is a single page with absolutely no useful info on it.


texts: Is there any replacement for the chainrings of a Shimano STX crankset?

texts: I have a Shimano STX Crankset (probably FC-MC series or similar, around 2001) with worn out chainrings (5 Arms). Is there any contemporary replacement opportunity for either the chainrings or the whole crankset?


texts:
During the recent trip my road bicycle was mounted on the rack on top of the car, and since I didn't wrap it, nor used the cover, flies and other small insects got stuck on the frame and handlebars. After the trip I gave my bike a thorough wash to clean the remains of the insects, but soon I noticed bunch of ants crawling over the bicycle.

While I can safely use repellents or poisons to get rid of the ants from my home, I'm interested if there are any considerations I have to take when treating the bike with such products, in order not to damage the components or paint (FTR, my bike has alloy frame and carbon fork, Shimano 105 group).


texts: How do I prevent play in the steering post?

texts:
I recently changed my handlebar stem to an angle-adjustable variety and now there is a little bit of play in the bar coming up from the front suspension through the frame, onto which that stem is bolted.
I've tried pushing down to compress everything up when fitting the stem, but I can't seem to get rid of the play.  Any ideas what I should be doing to get rid of the play?


texts:
A little while ago, a year or so, I changed the cheapish steel fork on my commuter for a cheapish carbon bladed fork I had hanging around. The headset on the bike is a little non-standard but the shop that did the work for me (moved the crown race over) assured me that it would be fine.

Since then the handling of the bike has been atrocious. The new fork has a greater rake and a longer steerer but the handling of the bike is now really unsteady and twitchy. The other issue is that it's suddenly really difficult to get the loading right on the headset, a sixteenth of a turn in either direction and it's far too loose or far too tight.


texts: Does covering 21-23km per day as a beginner hurt your knees?

texts:
I’m 29 years old and I have bought a hybrid bike 5 days back. I’m a beginner in this field and last time when I rode a bike was 15 years back. From last 5 days I’m covering 21 to 23km in approx 1 hour and 15 minutes with an elevation of around 250-300m. I want to ask that can it hurt my knees if i ride daily with this same scenario or I will get use to of it? Please note that i’m coming in this field straight out of couch.

Secondly, I’m 5’8” and I’m riding 17 inches bike. Is it perfect for my height?


texts: Is there much of a difference between flatland and park/street frames?

texts:
I am a newbie at biking, and I've been wanting to get into BMX for a few years, and I can now since I actually have some money. Primarily I've been wanting a 20" BMX bike with front and rear brakes and a detangler, but looking around on danscomp and a few other places there aren't too many in my price range. Anyways, that's not really what my question was.

Since I'm new to this, I've been reading a bit about frames, sprockets, brakes, etc., and found out there is a frame that is specifically for flatland riding, here:

But, when I look at a lot of tricks online (I've just been using Google Images) and look up 'flatland tricks / bikes' or 'bmx tricks', most of the pictures are just using the typical frame with the straight bottom tube. So finally, is it really necessary to buy a 'flatland' frame, which would just cost more and be harder to find, or just use a typical BMX-style frame?


texts: How do you adjust the set-up of road bike brakes for women with small hands

texts:
My girlfriend has recently bought her first road bike. While the frame size is pretty much spot on and comfortable for her, she finds that the brakes are difficult to use and she ends up with pain in her hands after longer rides. I think the issue arises because when she has the top of the hood in between her thumb and forefinger, her fingers only just reach the levers.

Has anyone else encountered this problem, and what have you done to fix it?


texts: How does one adjust the equivalent of the barrel adjuster on the XTR RD-M9000 rear derailleur?

texts:
I'm used to be able to turn the barrel adjuster on a rear derailleur to be able to bring the derailleur in or out (relative to the wheel). However, it doesn't seem like this particular derailleur works like that and I'm unable to find the equivalent.

The product docs didn't help too much either: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/xtr-m9000/RD-M9000-SGS.html


texts: Replacing rubber connection in a bicycle trailer coupling

texts: I salvaged an old bicycle trailer. I have one concern though. The bar that goes from the trailer to the bike, I believe it's called the tow hitch, ends with a small rubber coupling, to allow for movement in all directions. The rubber has gotten brittle, and I don't trust it. Is it possible to either buy a new one or in any other way fix this issue?


texts: Need help understanding the components of a carbon fiber seat tube to properly unseize it

texts:
I recently picked up my first carbon fiber bike which has a carbon fiber seat post that seized to the frame due to rust. I did not initially think that was possible but after looking at it, I believe there's more to this than meets the eye.

When taking a magnet to the frame I can see that there IS steel in the seat tube so is it the case that a carbon fiber seat post and/or a carbon fiber frame can have steel sleeves? The bike is a (2001?) Kestrel 200SCI. I want to understand the components at play here so I can safely work on unseizing the seat.

You can see how far down the steel goes by the placement of the circular magnet on the frame in the picture.

(Please note, I did not take a hammer to the seat post, that was the previous owner - thankfully the frame remained intact)


texts: How to fix front gear taking 2 shifts just to move onto next cog

texts: I was out on a ride yesterday and several times when I was changing up and down between big chain ring and little chain ring (I only have the 2 rings up front) it required 2 gear changes. The gears actually settled on an imaginary middle cog! How can I fix this?


texts: How to identify where a creaking/squeaking sound comes from?

texts:
There is a creaking/squeaking (halfway between each, I would say) sound in my bike. Here is what I know so far:

Happens during pedaling when the left leg goes down
Only when I press sufficiently hard on the left pedal
Not when the pedals are not moving
There is no discernible issue with the the moving parts involved as far as I can see: on a stand, rotating either pedal moves the wheel freely, with no extra friction that I can feel, the wheel on its own turns freely as well
The pedal and crank arm are made of some sort of plastic
I checked Strange long squeal sound when I pedal hard? I can't figure out where it's coming from and I don't think it is the same issue as:

The squeaking is not very high pitched
The pedals don't wiggle
The sound happens exclusively on one side

Based on that, I suspect something is wrong either in the bottom bracket, or in the left crank arm or pedal.

How do I test which part is the issue, and how catastrophically can this fail?

Edit

As it turned out, the crank was coming loose. It started unscrewing itself, and eventually fell off. It was hard to understand at first, because I didn't put enough force in trying to see if it was wiggling. I now suppose that it was (just a little), but only when putting my weight on it.


texts: I am willing to buy some cycling gloves from an online store, but can't seem to find any details about the sizes. They range from S to XXL, but how do I know which best fits my hands? If it helps, I am willing to buy the Cube Teamline gloves.


texts: Replacing 42/52 crankset to 39/52 - will it make a difference?

texts:
I have several questions that arise from the fact that the current drivetrain on my old Peugeot road bike is pretty tough to ride when climbing up some steep hills: so I've got a 42/52 up front and 6 speeds (largest: 24) on the back.

So my first question: will changing the front to e.g. 39/52 setup make a noticable difference.

If so, can it be exchanged to e.g. some older/used crakset such as this Campa
http://apro.bikemag.hu/files/4/2/listing_photo159024_555485241366650384.jpg

It has the same tapered square connection as the current one.


texts: Bicycle is harder to pedal when standing

texts:
From a few days now, when trying to pedal standing, my pedals become very rigid and it sounds like if the brakes are dragging. If I sit down again, the noise goes away and it's easy to pedal again.
In fact, if I just try to apply more pressure to the pedals to go faster, the problem happens again.

I thought that the brakes were the problem so I adjusted them and I know they are not dragging.
The chain and gears are well lubricated.
I'm trying to fix this by myself so I can learn. Can you help me to figure out what the problem is?


texts:
I recently bought a mini-pump from Amazon, it was very cheap and,  so-far, I'm pretty impressed with the build quality. I never intended to mount it on the bike but then realised that it came with a thin metal "bracket" that attaches to the pump.

As you will see from the photo below, the pressure tube for the pump is actually housed in a separate plastic container connected to the pump itself:

If I attach the bracket as it is, the pump and the container will be protruding sideways outside the width of the frame. Do you think the manufacturer intended the bracket to bend once bolted to the frame so that the pump and tube are neatly stored within the frame profile? If yes, then what does the cut-out part of the bracket achieve in this scenario?

(Before you ask, the instructions don't mention the bracket and I have tried contacting the manufacturer but they appear to be another company who don't actually monitor the mailbox they advise customers to use.)


texts: Cup and cone bearings: better a little tight or a little loose?

texts: A bike is commonly full of cup and cone bearings: pedals, hubs, bottom bracket, headset etc... The component change but the logic still the same the bearing is in between an axle, a pair of cones and a locknut. Sometimes, when you overhaul some bearings it's almost impossible to achieve the perfect tightness of the cones and locknut, if you retry you'll get a bit loose, sometimes a litte tight, never the in between perfection. It has happened to me only ones/twice that I was really satisfied about the tightness, so I was asking to myself: better to leave a bit loose or a bit tight?


texts: How to choose MTB bike tyre: hookless, tubular or clincher?

texts: I don't know the difference between hookless tire, tubular tire and clincher tire. When I choose the tire type how to make a professional choice? I want to know which tire type is best for me.


texts:
I have a 3 * 7 Shimano set. I would like to change this into either a 1 * 12 or 1 * 11. How much would the conversion approximately cost? I am new to the biking world, so forgive me if I am saying things imprecisely.
I am mostly going to be on the road or gravel trails.


texts: What may be the cause of a loud noise when riding?

texts:
For a fortnight I hear noise from my bike. The sound appears to originate somewhere aft. The bike in question is a disc brake equipped cyclo-cross bike (Merida CX600). Overall weight of bike, rider, and load is a little under 100kg. I shall describe a few observations in order to help to narrow down the cause of the noise.

it comes from aft of the saddle
it has a combination of pling, creak, and scratch sounds
the sound is only audible on smooth surfaces (tarmac)
its frequency of occurrence increases when going faster
it does not sound the same every rotation, it is sometimes longer, shorter, sets in earlier or later
it persists when not pedalling and with no force applied to the cranks
it becomes louder when pedalling
it persist when out of the saddle
shifting my weight forward reduces the noise
shifting my weight aft increases the noise
there is no disc rub (sounds decidedly different) progressively pulling levers does not change sound of the noise
spinning the wheels on a stand does not cause this noise
turning the pedals on a stand does not cause this noise

Beside the noise the bike is new, about 800 km, in very good working order. Some observations on the bike:

The rear brake is difficult to centre, in particular after replacing the wheel. Disc rubbing used to be common until I took a lot of time to set up the brakes.
Something with the front fork, the through axle, hub, or bearings is not right. At side loads it may cause a clicking noise.
I've not checked the chain for elongation in 500 km.
Spoke tension out-of-the-box on this bike surprised me for being rather low. In particular the non-drive side of the rear wheel had and has rather soft spokes. I checked both wheels 500 km ago for centring, they were turning perfectly true.
The bike is ridden for 40% on tarmac, 50% on smooth gravel, 10% on rough terrain (by distance).


texts: As the title suggests, I was lubricating the gears and chain, and I accidentally dropped some of the oil on the rear brake disc. I didn't notice it then, and took the bike out for a spin. That's when I noticed the rear brake was acting funny. Problem, there is oil all over the disc, and maybe on the brake pads too. Any suggestions to solve this?


texts: Is it safe to attach a flashlight to a helmet?

texts:
Everything I've found online discussing this has focused on the benefits and dangers of attaching a metal mount to the helmet, on which a flashlight would be attached.

I'm using a soft mount (specifically paracord), and I was unsure if the flashlight itself presented a hazard in a crash.

Here is a shot of the flashlight and how it's attached:

Front view, showing placement. It's offset so it's aimed a bit better at were I'm looking.


texts: Is there a practical gain from elliptical/oval chainrings?

texts: I have seen competitive (amateur) cyclists with oval chainrings (front). What is the deal? Are they just for showing off, or is there a practical gain from it (different force transfer).


texts:
I have just finished to assemble a track bike (Cinelli Mash Parallax with Sugino DD75 crankset).

Here is a picture of the distance between the right chainstay and the crank spider. I am anxious by how close it is (less than 1mm, probably).

Is it something I should worry about? If yes, what solutions do I have except for picking another crankset?


texts: Safe to shorten a dual-pivot caliper mounting nut?

texts:
I have a 2006 Specialized Langster. Unfortunately the brake bridge is not deep enough to insert the shortest caliper mounting nut I could find (10mm). The head of the nut should insert all of the way into the brake bridge, and the head of the nut should be supported on the interior shoulder of the brake bridge.

Instead the nut sticks out and won't insert all of the way into the brake bridge hole, and the end of the nut rests against the thin rear shoulder of the brake bridge. This means the head is completely unsupported. ie the nut is too long for the brake bridge.

I could potentially fix this by grinding down the mounting nut so that it is about 8mm long. This would allow the nut to insert fully into the brake bridge and be supported at the head of the nut. But I'm wondering if grinding down the nut is safe to do? Do you think it would weaken the nut or cause it to crack over time? Also the threads would have to be chased.

This might be hard to visualize but take a look at the mounting nut on your rear brake caliper. You will see it fits nicely into the brake bridge and inserts all the way, with the head of the nut resting against the brake bridge creating a secure mounting point.

I contacted Specialized and they won't treat it as a warranty issue. Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks.

Edit: Actually, I am talking about the mounting nut rather than the bolt. Modern brake calipers mount using a 10mm or longer cylindrical nut with a larger diameter "head" and smaller diameter inner hollow "cylinder" which is threaded on the inside.

The outer diameter is the "head" of the nut and it presses against an interior shoulder recessed in the brake bridge which acts as the load bearing surface. The inner diameter is a cylinder which fits through the brake bridge and threads on to the caliper mounting bolt coming through the other side of the brake bridge.

Everything works on most bikes. But in this case it appears the brake bridge is not deep enough to fit even the shortest available (10mm) nut. So as far as I can tell the brake bridge is simply built wrong -- the brake bridge has a square center drilled out "box" section welded on that is simply not deep enough. Since Specialized won't warranty the frame, I am stuck with figuring out how to grind down the nut safely, while preserving its threads and hopefully keeping it from getting overheated, brittle and developing stress cracks over time. This is what I am hoping you can help with!


texts: How fast do you need to be going to get an effective slipstream on a bike?


texts: Can I convert freewheel hub to use cassette?

texts: I'm converting a 1989 Trek 830/Antelope MTB to a commuter and it has a freewheel. Can I convert it to a cassette with the same hub?


texts: Why do we sit on saddles that rest on seatposts? (and not on seats that rest on saddleposts)

texts: Why do we call bicycle seats saddles  and why is it a seatpost not a saddlepost? Asking for a friend.


texts:
What are the advantages of upgrading the crankset on a bicycle?

For example, my bike (2009 Kona Dew) comes with a FSA Dyna Drive crankset. I'm assuming this is a pretty basic crankset since it lies at the bottom of their product list.

Would there be a substantial improvement by upgrading to something nicer? My (uneducated) guesses are that a higher end crankset would be lighter (e.g made from carbon) and possibly have less flex under power application.


texts: Adjusting pedal / crank / other components to account for different leg sizes

texts:
I added a heal lift (~1 cm) for running to my right shoe after learning my right leg was slightly shorter than my left. Doing so alleviated any pain I was experiencing in my right knee.

However, I'm now regularly commuting, and the added miles seem to be adding up, as I'm experiencing pain in my right knee that seems to be due to the issue corrected by a heal lift.

Does anyone have any suggestions for how to somehow make an adjustment via pedal / crank / other components such as shoes to account for slightly different leg sizes?


texts:
Recently got a Poseidon Redwood gravel bike and after about 100 miles or so I noticed some front wheel play when pushing the wheel from side to side with my hand. Took the wheel out to see if the cones were lose or something but I could not figure out how to even get the end caps of.
The caps themselves have some play as shown in this video but just the same amount on both sides so I'm not sure if that's how it's supposed to be. I don't see anywhere where I could fit an allen key or wrench/spanner to take them off and I didn't wanna force them. The hubs have Quanta branding on them but I couldn't find any guide online for them either.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Is Shimano Claris compatible with disc brakes?

texts:
All of the Shimano Claris groupsets I have seen come with cantilever brakes as far as I can tell.

Is it possible to get this with disc brakes, would I have to buy the individual components?

What would be a good, affordable configuration of components (or entire groupset ideally) to get this?

I'm thinking of STI levers, is this important?


texts: I want to put a front brake on a Cinelli Parallax (track/fixed gear bike). It’s got a predrilled fork, but still a cap on it (as far as I know the cap is made of some kind of wax). What’s the cleanest way to remove the cap in your experience? I don’t want to mess up the paint layer around the hole. I read that electric tape and an electric drill will do the job. What’s your take on that? Or should I just try to work the break bolt in?


texts: Does anyone still use the old Brooks-style saddles?

texts:
About 30+ years ago I bought my first road bike.  It had an old (used) Brooks leather saddle on it, whose design probably dated back to 1900 AD.  To anyone who hasn't seen these,

they look like a they were inspired by horse saddles, but tinier.  The leather is rock hard, but once they get broken in are surprisingly comfortable.

Nowadays the saddles you see in shops are all high-tech, lightweight creations.  I had to search, but found some ads for Brooks on Amazon.  So:  does anyone use them?  Or are they outdated and anachronistic?


texts: Using two tires on one wheel to prevent punctures?

texts:
I have 20 x 3.0"tires, which seem to be pretty hard to find--especially with nice puncture-resistance like Schwalbe's "Smart Guard," or something of that nature.  Unfortunately, I'm definitely getting more flats.
My mechanic told me that I could double up on the tires--put old tires underneath the new ones so that it forms essentially an inner tire liner.  He did this in the good old days, apparently.  He in fact recommended that over other commercial products (Tire Liners) because apparently Tire Liners cause flats in themselves.
I have an e-bike, so I wouldn't mind the extra weight and might give it a try, but was wondering if anyone still does this today and if there's anything I should be wary of when / if I try it out?


texts: Why do Mountain Bike helmets have visors?

texts: Visors seem pretty ubiquitous on mountain bike helmets, but not on road bike helmets.  Why do mountain bike helmets have visors? What purpose does the visor have?


texts: I have a rear bike rack similar to this one, but I have no top or bottom eyelets on my Lemond bike. I want to attach it with p-clamps for a 3 day tour. How much weight can p-clamps hold? Do you have any recommendations on which specific p-clamps to get?


texts: What natural features and governmental conditions contribute to a bicycle friendly town/city?

texts:
I enjoy bicycling the most in cities that provide separate lanes for bicyclists - Portland and Boulder come to mind. In addition to bicycle lanes, what other governmental/civic actions ensure a  safe and desirable environment for bicycles?

Also what are the natural characteristics that contribute to an ideal bicycling location? For example, some coastal cities may have extensive bicycle lanes and paths running parallel to the ocean, making them terrific place for rides.

Are there specific conditions or circumstances that make some towns bicycle unfriendly?


texts: Gates belt drive: installing larger front sprocket

texts:
I ordered a Cube Hyde Race bike with Gates belt drive. I live in an area where it rains a lot, and I use my bike year round, so I was sold on the promise of virtually maintenance-free drivetrain.

The bike has a 46 teeth front sprocket (Gates S150 CDN 46T), 22 teeth rear (Gates CDN 22T) and Shimano Alfine 8 hub. If I understand correctly, the maximum gear ratio is 46 / 22 * 1.61 ≈ 3.37, compared to 48 / 11 ≈ 4.36 on my current bike. Probably enough for daily commute, but not for faster rides (I ride with my friends outside of town every now and then).

I tried to find belt drive bikes with higher maximum ratio, but 46/22 (or similar ratio) seems to be the most common. However, it is possible to order front sprockets with higher teeth count: 50, 55, ..., 70, which I will probably end up doing.

Will I need to order a longer belt as well in this case? If so, how do I calculate the correct belt length?
There also seem to be 3 different types of belts/sprockets: CDX, CDN and CDC. CDC is obviously different mechanically (does not have the center track), but are CDX and CDN compatible? Can I use CDX front sprocket instead of CDN?
Any other things to consider?


texts: iPhone ANT+ bicycling apps that can import a GPS track?

texts:
Does anyone know if any of the popular iPhone ANT+ bicycling apps have the ability to import a GPS track?

I'd like to start exploring some of the local trails/routes a bit - I've got .gpx tracks for some, but don't know of any iPhone apps that will both allow the import of the file AND feature any sort of ANT+ tie-in. I normally use digifit with speed/cadence and HRM sensors... I've got a GPS track of where I AM, but really wish there were some sort of approximate "turn by turn" for following some of the trails/routes, especially the urban ones that are not clearly marked.


texts: What is the safest and most courteous way to ride on a two-lane road?

texts:
There is a one-mile two-lane road close to my home with no bike lane, but with a large sidewalk. I ride this road every day, and it got me curious what I should be doing. The speed limit is 35 and the roads are pretty empty except during rush hour.

Most riders either stay close to the curb like below.

And I have noticed that cars pass them on the left, and it seems very unsafe to me when there is another lane.

Other riders use the sidewalk like the below. But since there is a lot of foot traffic and trees and such you would be very slow.

And I do the below.

I hog the whole lane so no cars pass me on the left. I average around 16-18 mph on this road, and it's only a mile long. Most of the time it's fine, but during traffic I feel like am not courteous.

And once in a while there are cars parked although very rare like the below. Which I really like because the whole lane is for me, and I can go around the cars.


texts: Should I buy this (gently) used, 15 year old, helmet?

texts: My neighbor is moving cross country and selling all his bike stuff. His helmet's a white Bell, about 15 years old. It's a bit scuffed but generally in pretty good condition. The only thing that worries me is some of the styrofoam is cracking off, but it shouldn't be hard to glue or remove and stuff a sock in the hole. And  the right side is a bit deformed inward from storage (he says) but it bends back when on my head. But the straps are fine and it buckles great, plus it still looks stylish after all these years. He's selling it for $10, which sounds like a steal. Should I snag it for cheap or splurge on a new one?


texts: How to calculate width of 28" tire to 26" with constant damping factor?

texts:
Let's say you have a 28" tire with X width.

The question is how to calculate the width for 26" tire to get the same damping factor? I am looking only for solid solutions.

I will assume that calculating it backwards is simple reformulating the equation.

Update

"Solid solution" = "I tried it, I know it, so I say it".

Damping = it is like "user experience", you ride and either it feels comfortable or not. After all I hit both kinds of obstacles, rails for example and holes in the street (Poland is famous because of them).

Tires -- what I have in mind, is exactly the same tires, same manufacturer, same type, etc. Currently I use 26" 2.35" (Fat Frank and Super Moto) tires, and I am wondering (approximately) what 28" tires would be the equivalent.


texts: Does bicycle rim wear affect wheel truing?

texts:
I read bicycle rims wear out with braking. As the wear to the different areas of the rim is likely not equal as they are subject to varying brake force and duration, how would this affect wheel truing? Example, if wear at one area of rim is more than another area, the area with more wear would sit further away from the truing needle.
Is there an area of rim you are meant to use during truing, such as the edges?
Is there a part of the rim the brakes should be installed at?


texts: Leaking fluid from hydraulic brake caliper

texts:
Shimano BR-M355 rear caliper.
I've very quickly managed to contaminate three sets of brake pads through fluid leaking (I think) from the bleed nipple. I've twice taken advice from local bike shop who inspected the caliper and assured me nothing was wrong, advice was to buy more premium end sintered pads. Fair enough I thought, give it a try. Few weeks later and back to square one - no braking power and very noisy.
The dust cap is missing from the bleed nipple, but I assumed this was one way and wouldn't cause it to leak?
Essentially, the question is can I fix it by replacing the dust cap, top up fluid and replace pads, or is it a case of replacing the caliper and starting again?
Any advice gratefully received. Thanks


texts: Is it possible and safe to attach this type of seat to suspension seatpost?

texts:
I have a Merida Crossway 20 bike, and want to change its saddle.

Now after buying a new one I am not sure it is even possible to mount it. I had forgotten I have a suspension seatpost, but the new saddle seems to use a different type of attachment.

Is it even possible, and if it is, then is it reasonably safe to attach this type of saddle to a suspension seatpost?

The original seatpost + saddle:

The new one:


texts: Ultra durable MTB for heavyweight rider (370lbs)?

texts:
Some might remember me from this post. So basically after finding a fix for my dutch bike I was riding around London I now actually moved back to Germany. To the countryside to be exact and to the hilly countryside as well! With lots of forest. So now I am looking into building or buying a very rigid MTB. I will be mostly riding in the woods.

I have also considered an E-Bike for extra boost up those hills but I am not sure if that makes sense or not. The KTM Mighty XL looks really good as far as ebikes go. It is officially rated up to 170kg (~370lbs) but that is actually for the whole bike + rider and baggage. So it's more like 150kg (~330lbs) for the rider. The price tag is probably fair but at about 4000 USD you could also buy a car for that. I am considering it anyways.

However I also want to consider regular MTBs.

What are some features or things that I should look at that would indicate a bike that can take heavy loads — or that you would recommend or should I  have to go for a custom built?

In the past I was given a quote for a custom built back in London by SBC Cycles. Great guys but I couldn't spare the coins at that time so waited until I found the working solution for my dutchie. The built was based on a Surly Troll frame even though that bike was conceptualised for the city but could probably easily be altered to be an MTB aka different tyres.

In general I was wondering as well - is the MTB market completely international or would I find totally different makes in Germany than in the US?


texts: Handlebar slips in quill stem clamp when going over bumps

texts:
I bought this new Kalloy quill stem, with Sakae 25.4mm handlebars as pictured below. The handlebars were purchased at an eBay auction.

Here's the setup from the side
I've tightened the handlebar clamping bolt (m8 size, 10mm thread engagement) to the maximum torque of 10 N m as printed on the stem, photo here, which does fine when riding on flat surfaces, but as soon as i hit a bump when on the hoods, the handlebars rotate forward. Adding fibre grip doesn't solve this problem.
When looking up the torque values of typical quill stems they range between 14 - 30 N m, Park tool's recommended torque ranges reflect this.
Would it be okay for me to torque higher than 10 N m despite what it says on the stem? As far as I know, Kalloy is a fairly reputable company when it comes to components, so I'm surprised the torque is so much lower, and that this slippage problem is occurring.
My current strategy is to incrementally up the torque until it's at an acceptable level. If that still doesn't work, I'm considering using a shim.
Please let me know if there's anything I should consider!
EDIT:
I've heard back from the store I bought it from and this was their reply:

Good morning, The first thing I would check is the handlebar diameter
just to make sure it is within spec. We see a lot of bars that are on
the low side of the specification, 25.2mm is probably ok, anything
below could be an issue.  If it is within spec you should be able to
safely exceed the recommended torque, just make sure the bolt threads
are greased.  I would have sold over a thousand of these stems over
the past 10 years or so and more than likely the majority of customers
wouldn't bother with a torque wrench, no doubt they have taken them
well past 10 N m I would go up in 0.5 N m increments

I rechecked the diameter of the handlebar, and they are within spec. Bolts are also greased.
I've tested it up to 15 N m (as far as my torque wrench allows), and will try shimming it with a beer can before borrowing a torque wrench with higher torque setting. So far seems promising!


texts: I added a new rear wheel to my bike, and set the chain and spun it by hand so it spins properly. However it is very very difficult to pedal, requiring a lot of force. Also when I pedal, I hear a light grinding sound that I can't identify. Does anyone know how I can fix this?


texts:
So I'm looking to build a slopestyle-trail kind of bikes, something like Brandon Semenuk used in Redbull Raw videos. I want something I can use on trails while being playful enough to commute on the street (and jumping on stuff). But I don't know which frame to start with.

Can I use trail frame like Stumpjumper FSR or do I need a purpose built slopestyle? what is the difference in geometry (if any)?


texts: Maintenance of Fork springs on Marzocchi Bomber Dirt Jumper

texts:
I recently took my fork into my mechanic for service because it was making a rattling noise in one of the fork legs. Upon initial assessment he thought it was a broken return spring for the air cartridge. Turns out the fork is primarily spring with a little air on the side. Also turns out that the springs are just worn. Couple questions:

Am I better off replacing springs or buying a new fork?
If the springs are that worn, will other parts of the fork be breaking soon?
Can I replace fork springs myself? I've done an oil change and seals/wipers so far on my own.

Fork is a 2004 Marzocchi Bomber Dirt Jumper 1. Used for dirt jumping and street riding.


texts:
I think I missed a lot of opportunities to go faster when cruising and not taking advantage of tailwind. I find that if I put short effort in acceleration, the tailwind will take care most of the speed maintaining work.

For big tailwind I can usually see leaves rolling on along my general direction. Lately, I think if wind noise is more quite, I might be in tailwind?

So how can you tell if you've got tailwind or wind direction in general? (without flag anywhere nearby)


texts:
I have a silly question maybe.. How to protect the frame of my bike from corrosion? The bike is not new.  Are there any accessories?
Thanks


texts: I'm looking for an electric bike. I see motors available on rear, center, and more cheaper, a wheel with a motor to adapt to front. Any experience to help me to make a decision?


texts: Shimano cleats, Exustar shoes: Which bolts to use?

texts:
I just got Exustar shoes and Shimano SPD-SL pedals with SM-SH11 cleats. Problem is, the cleat fixing bolts that were included with the cleats aren't long enough to bolt to the shoes. I'm wondering what length of bolt will work best for this? I'm seeing a lot of "extra long 13.5mm bolts" online- would they be long enough to bolt to Exustar shoes?

Any help greatly appreciated, thanks!!


texts:
I am willing to buy a new bike and I'm stuck between Cube Analog Disc and Cube Aim Disc. What should I go for? What are the advantages of one over another?

I will use this bike on all kind of terrains (meaning city, off-road, mountain, road), but I won't go mountain-biking (in the real word) very often.

Thank you!


texts: What is the full name of this bicycle? Thank you!

texts: Can anyone help me find the full name of this bike? i would really appreciate your help. Thank you!


texts: Where is the best place to carry water (back or bike)?

texts:
Where do you prefer to carry your water?  I find when I am mountain biking I prefer to carry my water in a hydration pack on my back (easier to rock the bike).  When road biking on flat ground I prefer to have it on the bike.

Where do you keep your water to optimize speed/agility/enjoyment?

Edit: It seems to me that road bikers never use camelbacks.  Is there a reason for this?


texts: Does the saddle height need to be changed when the crank length changes?

texts: On my road bike I have 172.5mm crank and my saddle height is 810mm from the bottom bracket. On my track bike I have a crank arm 165mm. Do I need to change the saddle height on my track bike? Will it make any good difference on my pedalling efficiency?


texts: Will Sram GX Eagle grip shift trigger work with 11sp cassette? Is it possible to adjust it so that one click in shifter is just useless. I am upgrading my transsmision. I can't afford buying whole eagle set at once (power meter is more important now ;) ) but this solution seems a little more forward-looking.


texts: Which is the safest side to place a foldable rack-attaching bike basket?

texts: I recently received a foldable bike basket which attaches to my back rack as a gift, which I am really excited about - it will make my commute a lot easier. However, I am not sure which side of the bike to attach it to. It seems like putting it on the right side makes sense but when I add groceries or other things to carry it will put the balance out of whack, since the gearing is also on that side. I suppose this is going to happen either way with a single bike basket. Having two would allow me to keep weight and balance even. But with this in mind, should I specifically place the basket on the left side to keep weight more even?


texts: How do I help the less experienced cyclist cope with a hill climb?

texts:
I enjoy going up hills by bike and only the steepest Alps make me think 'what am I doing!!!'

However, some of my friends have a tendency to say things like We're not going all the way up there, are we!?!' Just the sight of tarmac looming upwards can make them want to instantly dismount or take a longer, flatter route, or go back home, or phone mummy, or find a pub or something else defeatist.

There also seems to be a common fixation on the top, which I don't understand. To me the top is not really of consequence (unless it is a famous mountain pass that I have not been to before).

What is the best way to encourage others to get to the top?

Edit: We are talking hills here, nothing particularly steep, nothing in extreme weather, perfectly averagely paved surface with light traffic.


texts: I've had my Tifosi sport glasses with photochromic lenses for about 4 years. Lately, when I rode them in 10 am morning sun, my eyebrow and eye started to feel terrible pain, that passed once I removed my sunglasses. A friend of mine, that works in a bike shop said that polycarbonate lenses have a life span of about 3 years. I've bought a new pair of glasses, but now I'm trying to decide what to do with the old pair. So the question, do polycarbonate lenses really degrade with wear, time and when wiping them?


texts: My brakes get mushy under heavy pressure

texts:
I have some Avid Juicy 5 on my Specialized SJ FSR '08 and the front brake gets mushy and looses brake power on long downhill trails.

Do I have to purge the brake lines to get performance back on track?


texts: I just found a Reba for a bargain price and everything fits my frame except for the fact it uses quick release rather than axle; the rear dropouts are axle and with this fork the front will be QR, while I am up to changing my wheels because that was part of the plan, I wonder if it's a reasonable idea to mix QR and Axle, or if I should wait to find another bargain (who knows when) on a XC fork that has axle.


texts:
I have a huge desire to attend on Megavalanche in France, but I don't know if I am good enough. I don't ride park and only do descents from the local mountains where you "need" a full suspension bike (I have a Giant Trance 3 enduro bike). I can ride anything, except 2 meter drops.

Megavalanche is pretty hardcore. Does anyone know any similar (not downhill, but events with more descent than ascend) in Austria or Italy?


texts: Are there research graphs for the Rotor Q Ring system?

texts:
I was looking into Rotor Q Ring system that supposedly increases power by 4% which is rather significant especially when climbing. It should shave off quite some time off your resulting time due to this info.

But I can't seem to find any detailed research done by comparing classic round cranks against Rotor's Q Rings.

Anybody knows where to look?


texts: What's an "Auto-Mini" folding bike? Can I use one for decades without having to replace the frame?

texts:
I've been thinking of buying an internally-geared folding bike for commuting (5 km each way) and errands. I want to spend $100-$200, but I want a reasonable-quality frame; I don't want to ever have to replace the frame with a new one.

I see a bunch of "Auto-Mini" folding bikes for sale on Craigslist in my city.

How are the frames: are they well-made?

How's the bikes' ride quality?

[Edit: I've read that the frames are prone to cracking. Is the Auto-Mini still a reasonable choice, considering the criteria I mentioned above?]


texts: Would a seat post mounted back rack act like a rear fender?

texts:
Specifically I want to know if the right one would stop the rider's back from getting splattered with rain. That way it does double duty as a fender and a rack.I want a light duty back rack for day to day cargo. If I am getting bulky groceries or doing the laundry I can always use a backpack.
I like the minimalist lines of some of the ones I have seen. They suit my bike.


texts: Italian bottom brackets and modern cranksets - a compatibility guide?

texts:
I have an Italian frame (presumably a Moser) which I chose to repurpose as a single-speed/fixie with parts from another Single-speed/fixie of mine, with the exception of the bottom bracket and crankset, due to the size difference.
I chose to go with a tapered / squared JIS axle, but the spindle length in relation to both the crankset and the chain line is still making me confused, being the first time I have to buy these parts, therefore:

what should I take in consideration when looking to pair an Italian BB with a crankset?
is my current chain line measurement (on the older bike) of any use when looking for these parts, since those same wheels on the old bike will be used on this Italian frame? (taking in consideration the wheel's axle length and how much the cassette can be moved using spacers)
is it better to buy a BB with a spindle length longer than the one recommended by the crankset manufacturer or shorter?


texts: Is it OK to ride in the drops almost the whole time?

texts:
I just bought my first road bike, 2 months and a thousand km ago, and into several 50 to 130 km rides I found myself riding mostly in the drops, like reeeaally in the tip of the bar. I even removed the bar end plugs so the plastic edges won't hurt my hands. On the climbs I go to the top of the STIs, and I also use the tops, altough rarely.

I'm 180 cm tall, and my bike is a 54 cm, with a bit of a longer top tube for this size, and I feel pretty comfortable. My stem has a positive angle, pointing up. I had a bit of a back pain after a few of the first rides, but now I've got rid of them, somehow.

What intrigues me is why everybody else seems to use the drops only for sprints and aerodynamic hard riding, but not me. Am I doing something wrong/damaging?


texts: Popping/flexing, but *not* when pedaling hard

texts:
My road bike is making very noisy popping/flexing sounds when pedaling. There are multiple sounds in a semi-regular pattern with each pedal stroke, and I can feel extra movement through the pedals as I hear the sounds.

The sounds are most pronounced at moderate intensity and still present at light intensity, but when I do a hard sprint or threshold effort (i.e. when the drive-train is under constant pressure) the sounds disappear.

Also, if I grab a pedal with my hand and press my weight down on the crank, I can feel some give and hear a sound as I do this.


texts:
After two LBS's, a blowtorch and a tyre shops impact driver I finally have my bottom bracket out. It an aluminium frame if that makes a difference.
On the drive side some of the thread is gone, although not so much that the socket can freely be pushed in.
Would I need to move to a threadless bb or could I force the drive side in to retread/lock into remaining threads?
Picture of the drive side:
https://ibb.co/6WJN24P
Also, this is a 68x127.5 bb. Would a 68x127 work? If I have to go threadless, the yst 127mm is far cheaper and more available. I just don't know if enough thread is "gone" for it to fit in. Also the non drive side is almost fine.
I should add that sending the frame to a specialist retapping shop would simply not be worth it for this bike!
EDIT: The bike is an old Dawes 401 with a rockshox gps fork that has failed but functions as a solid fork now. This bike also requires new cables and perhaps new shifters. I know it would probably be better to just switch to a new bike but I feel it would be a big waste to scrap this.


texts: Can I mix these SRAM Apex components with Shimano/Ofmega components on my bike temporarily?

texts:
I own a Fausto Coppi vintage bike. Currently I have RSX shifters with Shimano exage 300EX front and rear derailleurs.

I am switching my whole setup to accomodate 10 speed. My new wheels fit well. I have just ordered a SRAM Apex mini set. This comes with a 10 speed chain, shifters, cassette, rear derailleur and brakes. I do want to eventually switch out the bottom bracket and crankset but I currently have an Ofmega 52/42 crankset. I also want to switch out the front derailleur as well.

I just want to know if this setup will not work or cause damage to components until I can replace the front derailleur, BB and crankset to match the Sram Apex set?

So to be clear this will be SRAM Apex rear derailleur, shifters, cassette and chain. But the mixed components will be shimano Exage 300ex front derailleur and Ofmega 52/42 crankset. This is strictly temporary but I just want to know if it'll work okay. Thanks


texts:
So I was going to take my wheel off to replace my cassette but last night I gave it my all but could not get the quick release lever to disengaged. I've read to use a pipe for some more leverage but the lever is right next to the frame.

Should I try some PB blaster or anything like that one it? The other side seems to have those plastic caps vs a metal bolt (if that makes sense).

My guess is this wheel hasn't been removing in many years.


texts: Should I remove foreign objects from my tyres if I'm running tubeless?

texts: I have been running a tubeless setup on my bicycle and have picked up a number of foreign objects (e.g. thorns and glass shards) in the tyres. The sealant is doing its job and I am not losing significant amounts of air from any of the punctures. Given that the tyre is holding air is there any value in removing the objects?


texts: What are velcro alternatives for frame mounted bag?

texts:
I don't like velcro straps on my bike. They are constantly shifting and rubbing against it. They catch dirt. They cover frame stickers ;) A few days ago I've seen a frame bag that appeared to be connected to the frame without any straps at all. Just like one in this answer:

Photo Bikerumor
I wanted to ask how is that possible, but I believe the more useful question would be what are alternatives to velcro? Preferably without its flaws, that is:

Not sliding, rubbing and moving against the frame
With less potential to build up dirt deposit
Less visible

For the sake of completeness, please include ones that require specifically built frame. I don't have one, but future readers might.


texts: How do I install this Ribble endurance SLR headset?

texts: I've installed the bearings and now I'm struggling with which order to stack things. I can't find any documentation or manual of any description. I've attached a few photos. Does anyone have any idea?


texts: Can I convert rim brake to disc brake on road bike?

texts:
I have a Giant propel advanced 2 (2017) road bike, 105 groupset, rim brakes. I would like to buy a set of deep section racing wheels and unsure if disc brakes are an option or not.

Is it possible to convert my bike to a disc brake version? If so, what component(s) would I need to change? How much would it cost? What are the differences between hydraulics and mechanical disc brakes? Or should I just get this crazy idea out of my head?

My bike:


texts:
I'm looking to buy my first tri bike and am considering between a Cervelo 2016 P2 (rim-brake) and the new 2021 P-Series (disc-brake).
The P2 is brand new, but it's an old stock my LBS has on hand, and would cost me about $1k less than the new P-Series. Should I get the P2, given that it's much cheaper? Or is there any downside to buying an older version of the bike? Any advice?


texts: What are some red flags to look for when buying a used road bike?

texts:
I will be buying my first road bike (after 15 years with the same mountain bike) and I have found many for sale on Kijiji. When I go look at the bikes, what should be some red flags that turn me away from them?

I have already researched brands, but are there warning signs when looking at the bikes?


texts: Dynamo hub lighting system recommendation

texts:
I'm considering outfitting my hybrid/commuter bike with a front dynamo hub and associated lighting.

Currently, looking at Sanyo, Shimano, and Schmidt dynamo hubs. The Schmidt's are pretty pricey, but may be worth it? Sanyo's and Shimano's are similarly priced.

Not sure yet about compatible lighting as there are multiple choices. The key points here would be that the lights are bright, and easily removable for when my bike is parked in public bike parking areas. Another key point is that I would like to stay lit while stopped and slowly climbing hills; and I'm not sure whether this is a function of the dynamo hub or the lights.

Recommendations?

Just to say... After this question, Why are battery-powered lights so popular?

I find that I'm much more interested in a dynamo solution for the commuter bike. The road bike; not so much.


texts:
I have a ~2 mile/~20min cycle to work and currently take a rucksack with me that generally only contains my food for the day in a standard take-away container measuring about 17cm x 12cm x 4cm give or take.

I end up with a sweaty back in the morning which is a little annoying; so I'm wondering if there are any good saddle bags or similar that I could fit my food container, wallet and phone in (so something with a depth of maybe 10cm) to relieve the issue of sweaty back.  Does anyone have any good recommendations because at the moment my rucksack seems a little like overkill.


texts: How can I get rid of I.T. Band pain caused by cycling?

texts:
I have struggled for a while with Illiotibial Band pain or Illiotibial Band Friction Syndrome when cycling and running, here are some of the things that I have done to get rid of the pain:

When it is inflammed:

Cataflam (a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory - NSAID)
Ice
Transact patches (topical anti-inflammatory)
Rest

Prevention:

Hamstring strectches
Massage (cross friction on ITB)
Strengthening of gluteus medius
Stretching of gluteus medius and TFL (Tensor Fascia Latae)
Foam roller
Bike setup correction (moving saddle forward worked for me)

There are some good resources on the Internet, here are some I have read:

Cycling Problems - ITB Pain And Tightness, by Karen Doyle

ITBS Help Site

What have you done to get rid of ITBS?


texts: Compatibility of 41mm x 107mm bottom bracket shell

texts:
Hi I have spent several days looking for a bottom bracket and crank. At this point it seems that there is nothing but 1 traditional pressfit bottom bracket and 1 crank that fit this shell. However, I want to make sure that nothing else fits before giving up.
Bottom bracket shell dimensions: 41mm internal diameter and 107mm width
Type: press fit (non-threaded)
Do threaded-together bottom brackets for this shell exist? This means, a bottom bracket that is not pressed into the non-threaded shell, but each cup screwed into the other cup, like the image:
The reason being that pressfit bottom brackets mis-align in time and start creaking quite fast. Then it becomes and endless buying of bb every few months. I have experienced it with my road bike. Threaded-together BB (or whatever name they have) do solve the problem.
Regarding the crank, it seems that the only crank that fits a 107mm BBshell is the Truvativ Hescendant DH, which is the only one that has in the description this BB.
Any regular MTB crank's spindle will be too short, is that correct? I do not know the length of the crank's spindles, it is never mentioned anywhere, as if there was only 1 length.
Thanks in advance.
*Edited because it seems it was not clear.


texts: Are shimano FH-2200 hubs strong enough to use in a tubular wheel for CX racing?

texts: I have a pair of Shimano FH-2200 front and rear hubs lying around which I no longer use and I would like to save money by using them for a wheel build but am unsure whether they would be up to the rigors of Cyclocross racing?


texts:
I've seen plenty of how to clean my chain, but how do I clean muck off my brake rotors and the inside of the assembly that holds the pads?

I see some posts specifying isopropyl alcohol, but that seems more for a step after you get clumped muck off. Is it safe to hit the rotors and inside of the disc brake assembly where the pads are with a water hose, and then dry and use the alcohol?

Also, is it safe to hit it with compressed air?


texts: Do high and narrow seat and back bending provide good bike riding posture?

texts:
I would like to ride a bike as part of daily commute on roads someday, as I  rode a bike to school in another country in the past. But I have been bothered by some uncomfortable points from the bikes that some or most people   ride in US. I value safety (both transportation and health) more than speed, but I guess that my different biking experience may be "old-schooled" and have rendered me ignorant about the biking reality in US.

I have seen some people adjust their seats  high. When I  sit on  their bikes, my feet can't touch the ground.
The reason why I want to land my feet on the ground is that I want to ride a bike in city traffic, where I often need to stop and restart biking. I was wondering how I can stop safely and easily without landing one or ideally both of my feet on the ground while sitting on a high seat?
(In US, most roads don't have bike lanes, and many car and truck drivers are not  used to driving past bikers, and may unleash  road rages towards bikers who block or partially block their ways. Some suggest to ride in the same lanes as cars, so that bikers can be noticed more easily by automobile drivers, but I will probably still ride to the rightmost as if there were bike lanes on the roads, even though that can mean that there are more  chances for irregularly-shaped small stones to damage the tires of  bikes.)

Some bikes have very narrow and small seats. Aren't they together with their high positions putting greater pressure on the crotches than slightly wider and bigger seats?

Also some people bend their backs forward when riding bikes, just like in Olympic bicycle competitions. That together with their high seats puts their butts in  more prominent positions than  their backs   straight-up or only slightly leaning forward. Isn't bending backs forward harmful for their backs?

Thanks.


texts:
I am planning to get a new bike specifically for touring purposes. Though there are special one out there (like TREK 920), I was wondering if anyone has experience of using cyclocross bike for this purpose. I am looking on TREK Crossrip 3 which has mounts for rear and front racks.
I have doubts, though, that those mounts will not be strong enough for the good racks (I am currently riding a tweaked MTB with rear Topeak rack which holds up to 25 kg of weight.)
Thanks in advance.
Alex


texts: In city traffic, is sitting more upright safer than more aero positions?

texts: I like the handlebar height lower than the average road bikes I see in my city. Am wondering if I am putting myself in more risk.


texts: How quickly can the body restore energy reserves mid-ride/post-bonk, and how do we optimise this?

texts:
I'm interested in how we can maximise restoring energy stores (mainly glycogen, but I'm deliberately being vague) either between closely spaced rides or on long rides.

I ask in the context of a couple of tough rides at the weekend: Friday 277 km solo into a serious headwind, Sunday 324 km with a group (they were all stronger than me and some of them were better rested; we had a bit of a headwind at times but not severe).  In between was a rest day, and a well-fed one at that.

I got to a stage on Sunday's ride where I was clearly running on pretty much  empty: even gentle climbs were almost impossible, and a snack of 100–200 kcal of mostly carbs would perk me up for a few minutes, starting a few minutes after I ate it but then it would wear off.  A meal of several hundred kcal (again lots of carbs) with a bit of sitting around had a similar effect but lasted a little longer.  I'd obviously overdone it: still depleted from Friday ride, trying to keep up with a fast group in the morning and missing a planned stop due to torrential rain, and nowhere open to have a food break out of the weather.  This also meant I ran out of pocket snacks (at least those compatible with rain gear) towards the end and had to stop to get food out of a pannier.

There's literature on refilling glycogen stores over a period of several hours (example paper) but not much about shorter timescales, and how do we translate this to a post-bonk situation when you need to carry on against the clock?  Is it better to have a long break, (perhaps eat, rest, eat again, go), or is it better to try to keep stuffing the carbs in while going along slowly?  Is there a difference if there's a known hilly stretch?

This is related to my old question Fuelling multi-day riding (carb loading/replacement) but this time I'm thinking of what to do when reserves are gone mid-ride – the multi-day aspect of last weekend is more like background, so this is about a much faster timescale.


texts: Modify a front derailleur cage to allow for non-round chainrings like Biopace or Rotor?

texts:
I am repairing my road bike after a mishap where it swallowed the rear derailleur around the cassette and into the front derailleur.  As part of the rebuild, I'm swapping out the badly worn old chainrings and fitting some NOS Biopace chainrings.

Downside is that my Front Derailleur doesn't have clearance when the chainring's highest position is upward.

I am aware that my FD mech suffered and is probably somewhat bent, but it does clear the original worn chainrings.

Here's two shots showing the chainring teeth at both positions.

The lowest area of the chainring.

Highest point on chainrings, showing the overlap highlighted with red.

The front mech is positioned as high as it can go on the braze-on mount point.  If I tried shimming the mount, the tail of the cage would lift but this would not significantly change the inner plate's height.

The proper plan would be to buy a new front mech with a smaller inner plate.

However I'd like to not spend too much on this repair.  Is it feasible to trim off some of the inner plate?

I'd try to leave enough meat at the top to have something for folding a replacement reinforcement lip, but the lower half is lacking in metal for that, and will likely become quite flexible without additional reinforcement.

Is this a workable solution?   I figure if not, I'm up for buying a new mechanism anyway.

Part is a Shimano model FD-2403 so its a triple road, bottom pull, low normal, and the bike was 9 speed.

Update - the cage cut cleanly with a Dremel cutoff wheel.  Took a couple of minutes, and made plenty of pretty sparks.  I used the dremel to round off the edges.

On installation, I find the mount on the frame is still not high enough to work as required.   I've ordered a couple of Band-on to Braze-on adapters to see if the mech can be mounted higher up the seat tube.

I still don't have enough "reach" to the right to get the chain onto the big ring.  Hopefully this will also be addressed by a bandon mount with more range.


texts: What is this hook near the cantilever brakes?

texts: I just bought this old school brazilian mountain bike, and it has this little hook thing near the brakes, front and rear. Anyone knows what these are for?


texts: My front brakes contact the rim at different times instead of simultaneously. Is that normal or are they misaligned?

texts:
here's the video for reference

When I lightly apply the brakes only one part makes contact with the wheel which makes a squeaking noise.
How can I change this? I'm afraid one part of the brakes will wear much quicker than the other, also I don't know if it is due to this but my brakes don't feel as "tight" or responsive anymore.


texts:
I have replaced the freewheel on my bicycle with a singlespeed. However, the chain line appears to move inwards from the rear to the front. picture

I have measured the rear frame spacing as approx. 127mm. picture I then measured the distance from the center of the freewheel (teeth) to the inside of the rear fork, which was 25.4mm. picture As per Sheldon Brown's website, the rear chainline measurement calculates to 38.1mm. I have measured the distance from the teeth of the chainring to the middle of the seat tube which is approx. 42mmm. Does the difference between the front and rear need to be within 1mm?

I think the only way I can achieve a straighter chainline is by removing the bottom bracket cartridge ring and placing a 2.5mm BB spacer from eBay between the ring and the BB shell. But I'm not sure this would work.

Alternatively, could I add a slightly longer spacer to the rear axle on the freewheel side, a shorter spacer on the non-drive side to move the rear chainline inwards and then redish the wheel?


texts: Disc brake system for downhill and dirt trail

texts: I have a 2000 GT XCR4000 I would like to put disc brakes on. What size of disc brakes would I need to do this upgrade the brake system for downhill and dirt trail ride.


texts: Loading training plans on to Elemnt Bolt for free

texts: How would one go about loading training plans onto a Wahoo Elemnt Bolt without using an app like trainer road or training peaks? Is this even possible? I'd like to use a free tool on my laptop such as Golden Cheetah or something similar.. I'm not looking to create complicated workout plans, just simple interval sessions that I can follow out on the road.


texts:
I am trying to determine the proper spoke-tension target reading for a plain J-bend stainless spoke. It has a 2.16mm diameter per the little gauge that comes with the no-name tensiometer I've just bought.
The rims are DT Swiss M442 27.5". According to the DT Swiss manual, for a front wheel with disc brake the M442's max tension is 1200 N (122 KGF) and its min tension is 950 N (97 KGF).
However, the tensiometer's conversion chart doesn't list 2.16mm spokes. It jumps from 2.0mm to 2.3mm
A reading of 24 would be in the sweet spot for a 2.0mm spoke and a reading of 28 would be in the sweet spot for a 2.3mm spoke.
Should I aim for a reading of 25?


texts:
(Tried searching this forum for this question but I couldn't find a question of the same type)

Hello, I've been trying to pump my front tyre but to no avail. I could easily pump the back tyre but not the front.

Picture of the front valve at the top,
The second picture is a grainy picture of back valve but what's clear to me was that the valve was "extended"(I could see a longer section)
Thanks!


texts:
Recently I flipped my bike upside-down to get the wheel out as I don't have a workstand.  Now the brake is not biting until the brake lever is on the handlebar. Is there anyway to fix this?

Both the brakes are working but very slightly and they only work until I press all the way down.


texts: Hi! Im looking to ID a rebuilt touring bike with serial number

texts:
Just bouncing around the net looking for answers and I found this site. Hoping there are some die-hard bike historians among you :)

I bought this from a fellow who rebuilds and repairs bikes. He says it might be a Miyata but isn't sure. I have tried searching the serial number but no luck. If anyone has information or speculation as to the make/model/year of this bike, I am all ears! Thanks for reading :)

-Sarah from Montreal


texts:
can I use 26 X 1.75 for front and 26 X 2.0 for rear? the tube size is the same.

Bike : Rockrider 5.0
Terrain : mostly Road, occasionally off-road.


texts: What is the “clip ring” part on my hubs?

texts: I recently bought a vintage Japanese Zunow road bicycle from the 1980's. The Sunshine hubs comes with small little rusty “clip rings” on both sides. Any idea what is the purpose of those clips?


texts: Sidewall cut on brand new tyre - permanent fix possible?

texts:
I bought a new set of tyres (Continental Grand Prix 5000). Being an idiot, I managed to cut the sidewall of the tyre with a knife while removing the packaging.
I have looked at repairing it, and came across items such as the Park Tool TB-2 Tyre Boot. However, I noticed that these fixes are only meant to be temporary, and not permanent.
Is it safe and advisable to use a tyre boot to repair a new tyre which I plan to ride 3000-4000km on, or do I need to cut my losses and just buy a new one?


texts: Performance difference between Shimano SPD and SPD SL

texts:
Is there a noticable performance different between the SPD and the SPD SL systems?  I've got SPD SLs on my current bike, but some of the touring I do required quite a lot of walking, so I was thinking of getting some SPD pedals so I could use shoes that were easier to walk in.

My current shoes are racing shoes - exposed cleats - but they will take SPD cleats in it.  So if I swap them over, will the ride be particualrily different?  Or should I keep them SPD SL and just swap over the pedals whenever I want to use them (as I find them very comfortable with the rigid sole).

Thanks


texts: I'm evaluating how to best match a new handset and rear wheel to a vintage rebuild

texts:
My first bike after  move to Japan. Picked up an old 520 Cro-MO frame by Tsunoda - Grand Prix , minimal rust and decent paint. It had some old Suntour VX derailleurs, aluminum-far-too-narrow drop bar with suicide brakes, Sugino 165 cranks, lowbar Shimano friction shifters, Araya 27x1.25 aluminum rims (close to true) and a freewheel 6 speed -Suntour  -  125mm rear end.

I decided for now to go with the original wheels (new tires, tape and tubes - repack bearings & replace rear axle), but swap the old freewheel for a new  Shimano 7. front derailleur to Sora double, rear derailleur to Tiagra  RD-4601 (10 speed), keep friction shift for now, replace handlebar, breaks Tektro Long.

So here is the part that I am very interested in hearing from people about; I wanted to work with the bike for a while, get a good feel before settling on a handset (this will be the biggest cost and from what I can tell the most constrained decision)which includes deciding to change wheels or build a new rear 27 to go with modern 10 speed index shift or get a handset to work with the 7 speed or what?


texts: Is the durability of more expensive chains better than cheaper ones?

texts: Do expensive chains last longer? I get 300-400 miles using Wally World's $10 8 speed chains while riding off road or dirt.  I monitor and replace the chain at close to 1 percent stretch. Would a 'better' (i.e. more expensive) chain last longer? Has anyone done a comparison of chain life and longevity vs price?


texts: Replaced chain, bike makes grinding noise?

texts:
Recently, I started going to a community bike shop to learn how to maintain and service my own bike.

Ever since I changed the old, worn-out chain to a new chain with a master link, I've been experiencing this grinding when I ride. I can feel the vibrations in my feet when I pedal and the handle bars when I have it on the stand and am examining it. The chain also jumps a lot (feels like it shifts gears without me doing anything, then stays on the same gear anyway).

The bike shop thought it might be the rear gear cog being worn out, so I replaced it and it still happens. We also adjusted the derailer, but it didn't help.

The bike shop volunteer thought it could also be the bottom bracket of the pedals. Which, upon closer inspection, seems likely...it's just weird it only started happening after I changed the chain (which they helped me size, to make sure it was right for my bike).

After looking on here, I think I'll pop off the chain and see if the pedals still make the grinding noise. If they don't make the noise, I'll try a different chain or try flipping the chain (just in case). My next step is taking it into the actual bike shop where I bought it and having them diagnose the problem.

Anyone have anything to add? I'm curious why all these problems only started after I changed the chain. Could it be something else?

Edit: we suspected the cassette was worn and already replaced that, but the problems kept occurring.

Update:

I finally made it into the bike shop again. Last time I was there, we adjusted the back derailer and I guess we didn't get it quite right. I had help adjusting the derailer again and now the chain jumping and skipping is gone!

For the grinding noise, the volunteer I talked to suspects it's the front derailer/chain guard/cogs. Something is rubbing against the chain near the pedal. I'll be working with him next time to further diagnose the problem.


texts: Are there tugnuts made to fit forward facing horizontal dropouts?

texts: Are there tugnuts meant to fit forward facing horizontal dropouts such as those on a Surly Cross Check, All City Space Horse, or Salsa Cassaroll which won't block rack and fender bosses and keep wheel from sliding forward during heavy pedaling or skid stopping on fixed gear setups?


texts:
I have been trying to do "track stands" while sitting down. Standing up makes it harder to balance and doesnt feel right.

Is it possible to do a track stand while sitting down? Should I just stop trying this and learn to do it the right way?

This reminds me a bit about how I didnt use the "home row" to touch type for a very long time, then I concentrated on "doing it right" and was surprised by how easy it was to learn.


texts:
What is the best pump for small bike tires with narrow spokes?

The pump head we have is large and is hard to place over the valve on our 20 inch tire.

I've tried pump extenders but they are screw on and I always let out as much air as I put in when I unscrew them.

I'm happy to get a pump that only works with Schraeder if this makes it easier to find one.


texts: MTB front suspension sounds like rusty trampoline

texts:
I have an old GT i-drive 3.0 from like 2001, it has a Judy Rockshox fork on the front. I imagine its never been serviced (I bought it used) and it's starting to sound like a symphony of rusty trampoline springs. It's so noisy you could hear me coming from a mile away (riding on single-track mountain trails).

Any ideas what might cause a front suspension to make such racket? Is there anything I can do to make it stop? Like is this a DYI project or is it time to visit the mechanic?

thanks!


texts: Why are 36-spoke wheels a touring thing?

texts: I've been looking at tourers recently and they tend to have 36 spoke wheels (as does my hybrid on the back after I broke my original rim). What I don't understand is why high spoke counts aren't used on more bikes.  Race-style road bikes with low spoke counts and smooth roads I understand. Maybe 26" wheels are tougher than 700C (I don't know). But CX bikes run (sometimes much) rougher surfaces on 700C and similar tyre widths to tourers -- without luggage but surely it's shock load that breaks spokes.  Or 29er hardtails -- rougher conditions still, and it's not like you can expect good technique from all riders all the time.


texts: What's the proper technique for starting uphill?

texts:
I am a beginner cyclist, having not learned how ride a bike as a kid, I've started riding from scratch 3 months ago. Local "bike buddies" have helped a lot.

I'd like to ride my bike to work, which is only 2km (1.24 miles) away from home. However, the entire path is a climb - max grade 4% for about 2 blocks, which is tolerable. While I can ride uphill, I can't start uphill. When I try, my front wheel tilts sideways and either by reflex I put a foot down, or if I am able to balance, I start riding diagonally, but bikelanes are too narrow for me to do that.

I ride a freewheel/singlespeed, so there are no gears for me to shift. Also, I haven't learned yet how to ride standing, so that is not an option for now.

Am I missing something in the starting technique? The only thing I could think of is that maybe I'm not pushing the pedal hard enough when starting, but I feel like pushing harder is what makes the front wheel tilt, due to pressure on handlebars.

I've read the Sheldon Brown article, and I am able to apply the proper starting technique he described when in a flat or downhill terrain, and I think it's because the bike gets enough speed only with my weight on the pedal.

I've also read How to start uphill?, and it's a different scenario, it was informative but didn't help me.

EDIT: I (finally) bought a floor pump and realized that part of my problems were uncalibrated (underinflated) tires. It doesn't make it easy to start uphill, but it is less harder. I think it'd be so because the first stroke gives the bike more momentum.


texts: Can I add 3rd chainring to a an old Sugino double?

texts:
I have a vintage (165mm-Crnk) Sugino 40/48 on here now, but am looking to add some gear range for up hill with med-sm load. I have a Tiagra short cage RD and  a Sora double FD. I am friction shifting. I'm considering doing a chain ring like 26/36/48  with an 11-34  freewheel  which would give me adequate range, I believe 20-117 ish.

Can I add a chainring to my set? Mine is 110mm 5 arm which sems like it should be replaceable with say a Shimano. I was also thinking I could just get a smaller maybe 36 tooth and call it a day with 2 rings.

My understanding so far is that my Tiagra rear derailleur has maximum of 28T. I've heard of people friction shifting using a double FD for triple front rings. Has anyone seen this?


texts: How can I reach upto Olympic level competitions?

texts:
I am 20 years old. My height is 1.7 meters (5 foot 7 inches).  I live in India.  I have cycled since I was a kid just for enjoyment.  I have no idea how I will reach  to world level competition like Olympics. It is my dream. or is it too late?
Is there something which will tell me early on whether i am capable of doing it or not, like a first test whether I am gifted with cycling skills?


texts: Is my Tiagra rear derailleur missing a screw?

texts:
Just flipped my bike over, spotted this hole in the underside of my Tiagra derailleur. Looks like a screw should be in there, but there it is not. Should there be? Should I worry? What is this screw for/called?
If no, what purpose does this bike serve?
Note these are pics of the underside of the derailleur.


texts:
I am looking to buy some (approx 30 meter) hydraulic brake hose for general use (fixing brakes) and would like to know what size (inner diameter/outer diameter) would be most suitable for the bigger brands of brakes (Shimano, Magura, Tektro etc.)

I couldn't find a definitive answer regarding the compatibility of hoses between brands.

I've found the following sized for different brands: (ID=inner diameter, OD=outer diameter)

Shimano (BH90) + Avid + Formula + Sram:

ID: 2.1mm , OD: 5mm

Shimano (BH59) + Magura MT:

ID: 2.3mm , OD: 5mm

Tektro/Hayes/Promax:

ID: 2.5mm, OD: 5.4-5.5mm

Are these dimensions (ID/OD) correct? If not please correct my list of sizes

On this forum (see link at end of paragraph) it is suggested that Shimano's BH59 and BH90 hoses are compatible with each other, which confuses me since I thought the inner diameter was different, perhaps it could work when using the correct insert (the one that matches the brake hose being used), could someone please confirm? Link: https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/7r26uy/hydraulic_brake_hose_diameters_and/ (see answer by user "beyondfar")

Do different product lines/products within the same brand use different diameter hoses? (other than the differences I've listed between Shimano BH90 and BH59)
Which ID/OD hose would be the best to get for 'general use' (using the appropriate olives/inserts for each brand)?
Does anyone know any 'hacks' to get a normally incompatible hose to work with a different brand (for example Shimano BH90 hose with Hayes brakes) ? If so please explain
Do the other lines of magura (for example HS) use the same brake hose as the MT series?
Are there other hose standards which i have not included in my list? If so please add them

Thank you!


texts: Just got another used women's Giant bike. This is a Sedona. Any way to tell year, and model?

texts:
Just got a another Giant that fits me better. Got an XS.  This bike is an S.  The bike is for rider height of 5'4" to 5'7".  It is a Giant Sedona.   Want to sell this one.  Any idea what year and model?  Bought this used as well.
Regards,
Jeri-Anne


texts:
I am considering buying a tow hitch and bike rack for my minivan to transport a few bikes for an upcoming vacation.  I've read a few reviews of these bike racks, and many folks have said that their license plate is not visible with these racks.

In the US, is there anything I need to get with my bike rack (license plate frame, extra tail lights, etc.) to make hauling my bikes legal?


texts: What is the right bottom bracket for english thread/68mm

texts:
I want to buy this group set:

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/campagnolo-veloce-silver-10-speed-double-groupset/?currency=USD&location=USA&gclid=CjwKEAiAjcDBBRCJxouz9fWHynwSJADaJg9BvbBLTW4dNo1N01VlEhiZaPi9nROtIuW9MJF7RvMFjBoC1APw_wcB#pid=30008

Not sure which bottom bracket I should pick.

My frame spec says bottom bracket shell is 68mm English thread.

help!


texts: I'm renovating an older bike. I took the 6 speed freewheel (Shimano mf-tz20) off because it was rusty, disassembled, chucked the parts in vinegar overnight. The rust came off, but so did the goldish tint of the cogs. I'm assuming the steel cogs had some coating applied to them to prevent rust/harden, I'm not exactly sure. My question is, what kind of coating did I strip off the freewheel, and what can I do to prevent rust on the now bare steel surface?


texts: Triple chainring + nonstandard sloped cogset. Can this work?

texts:
It seems that on my mountain bike and all other multispeed bikes I have seen having a rear cassette or freewheel all have sloped cogs, meaning they go from largest to smallest in order of decreasing size (such as 28,24,22,20,18,16, and 14 in my case).  Problem is that basically creates a triple range 7 speed, not really a 21 speed.  Also some combinations are not recommended cuz of a diagonal chain and some are duplicates normally and many combinations are very close so they are not really a unique gear ratio.  Also, to get progressive gearing, the rider has to shift in a funky order to get increasing gear ratios.

To help alleviate these, I had an idea but not sure if it would work.  Basically you would still have a triple chainring but 9 cogs in the back.  The idea is you use 3 cogs with each chainring.  So chainring A (the granny gear) only engages cogs 1,2, and 3 (the 3 largest cogs).  Then when shifting to gear 4, you shift to chainring B (the middle size chainring) and cog # 4.  Here is the variation though.  Since the front chainrings might be 24,32,40 and assuming the rear cogs are 28,24,22,20,18,16,14, we would be jumping from 24/22 = 1.09 to 32/20 = 1.60 which is a huge jump.  To help alleviate this I was wondering if the rear cogs can be "staggered" such that even with the larger chainring every 3 gears, the overall gearing would be progressive and consistent (no big jumps).  For example, 3rd gear can be 24/22 which is about 1.09 and 4th gear could be 32/25 which is 1.28.  So when shifting from 3rd gear to 4th gear, the front chainring size goes up 8 teeth but the rear cog also goes up 3 teeth, thus eliminating the large change in ratio and making it more mild.  So the 3+9 setup would effectively be a true progressive 9 speed bike but with better chain alignment than a 1x9 setup since the front 3 chainrings would be aligned with cogs 2,5, and 8, thus never being misaligned more than about 1 chain width so the chain will be almost always straight (not diagonal).

So my question is can a rear cassette have cogs like this that are not sloped all the same such as 28,24,22,25...?  Will it shift ok or are cogs only designed to be "progressively sloped" and not mixed like in my idea?

Addendum: Also with my idea, it would allow 12 speed cassettes since each front chainring could engage 4 rear cogs.  The front chainrings could be aligned with cogs 2.5, 6.5, and 10.5, thus never being misaligned more than about 1.5 chainwidths.  A progressive 12 speed could have both reasonably close gear ratios and wide range.  My ideal overall range for a bike (to cover almost all circumstances) would be 0.5 for the low gear (13 gear inches for a 26" rear tire) up to 4.0 (104 gear inches for 26" rear tire).  I could design a 12 speed to cover that range.  It would require about 20% change in each successive gear unless you had a big jump for the lowest gear, then you could slightly tighten up the other gears to perhaps 18% or so.


texts: How to find a mountain bike that can handle a heavier (250-260lbs) rider?

texts: I am a 44 year old man that is very heavy (250–260lbs(113-118kg)) and I am looking to buy my first mountain bike to do some riding on the weekend to burn off some of this fat I have.


texts:
When I pull the rear break lever, the cable contracts, but the lever doesn't return to its original position. How can I fix this?

If this is not enough information, please let me know. I will post a video or something.


texts:
In my commutes I often see cyclists ride quite fast between car lanes (for example when stopped at traffic lights, they get to the front to the lights before it gets green so they don't have to wait till all the cars start moving).

When there is 1m-1.5m, it is quite easy, but how does one master the width of the bike?
Every time, I am on the brakes feeling I am that close to the cars' mirrors but on the same time I see cyclists ride by without even slowing down, even motorbikes...

If even motorbikes get in that space, I must be doing something wrong, so how does one get conscious of the actual width of the bike?


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So I have an old super le tour and I want to install a set of safety levers on it (trying to bring back the original look) I cannot find an guide online so does anyone know how to install them?
Dia compe brakes.


texts: Replacement for an old FD-M760 front derailleur

texts: I've got a bent FD-M760 front derailleur. I'm wondering what the best replacement would be?


texts: New to cycling, wrist pain while cycling

texts: Started cycling last week. While riding cycle I am feeling like falling down on the bar, wrist gets pain, is it normal (my height is 5.6 and MTB cycle size is 18.5)?


texts: So I was trolling eBay and found this crazy looking old serrated wrench bike tool. The auction had no specifics. I can't think of what you would do with such an item. What the hell is it for?


texts: How to reassemble spring assembly on Shimano M520 SPD pedals

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I have a pair of shimano m520 pedals which were damaged in an accident.  The springs rotated past the tension bolt and now the back section, usually under tension, now hangs free.  How can I re-assemble the pedal and get the springs back under the tension screw? It seems very difficult since the springs need to be held under tension to get the plate back on top of the springs. Is this possible with home tools?

Here's a link to an assembly diagram:
http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/PD/EV-PD-M520-2235_v1_m56577569830608614.pdf


texts: New Bike + Disc Brake Shuddering: Cause and Fix?

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I recently bought a new bike (cx steel frame, carbon fork, disc brakes) that I am using as a commuter/all-rounder bike.

My question is similar to questions that have already been asked concerning disc brake shuddering/pulsing (here and here), but subtly different: Will skipping the bedding in process lead to shuddering when braking? If so, will attempting the bedding in process now fix the issue?

I am new to the world of disc brakes and foolishly didn't learn about bedding the pads until searching for resolutions to my issue. I have ridden my bike for ~200 miles so far, and the past 50 miles is when the shuddering in the front brake became noticeable.

Brake Details: I have Hayes CX Expert mechanical disc brakes and a carbon fork.


texts: okay, so i ride 20 x 2.4 tires that have a max psi of 110. last night my tire EXPLODED! the shop i buy my stuff from is closed for the rest of tonight and tomorrow and im going to the bmx park tomorrow. i have a old tire that is a 20 x 2.1 that has a tube in it i could use but im worried that it might be to much of a size difference and i don't what it to blow while im riding tomorrow. what do you guys think?


texts: Consequences of driving a dynamo backwards

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My bike has a hub dynamo in the front wheel. Recently I have replaced the old fork with a used one I got from my local bike club. The new one has fixing points for the cabling on the other side of the fork. Because the hub has only one connector for the wires, it would need to be installed contrary to the indicated running direction.

I  recently saw this question, and it is partially answering my question. To follow up: How, if at all, does the dynamo change the situation?