texts:
I'm looking to get a built bike with either Shimano BR505 disc brakes or Ultegra 6800 caliper brakes. The bikes I'm looking at basically have the same frame and components. They both have the same frame, it's just that one is for caliper and the other is for disc brakes. They both have straight Ultegra 6800 components except for the one with the disc brakes, ST-BR505 shifters and BR-RS505 disc brakes.

I've ridden a bike with Ultegra 6800 components and found that the shifting was really smooth and the same goes with the braking. From what I've read, the BR505 is 105-level. I haven't really tried 105s yet, (I've tried a Deore SL-M591 mated to a 105 5700 rear derailleur; does that count? Although I found it not as smooth as the Ultegra 6800.) so I'm not sure how the shifting and braking would feel on the BR505s.

Would there be a noticeable difference in shifting? And, I guess, the more important question, would there be a significant difference in braking power between the two brake sets? The price is the same for both bikes so that's why I'm really having trouble deciding on which to get.

PS
I plan on racing/exercising with this bike. Don't really plan on commuting with it since I already have a commuter.

The bikes are Giant TCR Advanced 1 and TCR Advanced 1 Disc if that helps.


texts: Regaining confidence to ride after an accident

texts:
I was able to put my best friend on bike. Things went well for a several months. Then, unfortunately she was caught in an accident (the one caused by the so-called "target fixation"). Fortunately, she recovered from her injury.

The sad part is that she has lost her confidence to ride. She was enthusiastic for a ride anytime before the accident, but now she is afraid of going for a bike ride. It's even more so on roads she is not used to.

What are some of the ways to comfort her? Any books/videos you'd recommend?


texts:
I have a brand new Shimano Ultegra WH-6800 rear wheel. The freehub has about 2mm of play in it. I can feel the play without the cassette installed by grabbing the freehub body and moving it. It moves side to side and a little less in and out.

I installed a cassette (brand new Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 10spd) and put the wheel on the bike (only in a stand) but it makes some awful noises when pedaling and shifting is a mess. If I look at the cassette from the back it is wobbling all over the place.

Should I return the wheel or is this something that can be fixed by disassembling the hub?


texts: What is the minimum tire width for a 18 mm disc rim?

texts:
I have a Croix de Fer cross bike that I purchased for touring with luggage; for commuting to work, lighter touring and some mild offroad riding.

While it is nowhere stated officially, I can see on this review that the rims are 18mm wide:

What range of tire width can I run? Saint Sheldon says 25-37mm for 17mm and 28-44mm for 19mm. And that it is on the safer side. What can I ride on this rim?

Also, the fact that the rims are for disc brakes and their lack of brake track makes them a tad shallower. Does that change anything to this consideration?


texts: Can I mix LOOK pedals+cleats with SPD-SL shoes?

texts:
The pedals and the cleats pictured arrived in one box. Hence they must be "compatible". The shoes arrived in a separate box.

The system used by the pedals/cleats is Look "Keo-style" cleats. The red/orange is reported to have 9° of float.

The shoes are expecting SPD-SL pedals and cleats.

I could attach the cleats to the shoes with no problem. Do you foresee any issues in using this combination?

It's understood walking will be difficult. Let's assume I'll manage to rarely walk while in these shoes.

Online chatter discusses the need for the "SM-SH40 Pontoon Cleat Adaptors". Given that everything works out of the box, I'm assuming that this adapter is meant to facilitate walking, nothing more. Can you confirm?


texts: Help identifying a vintage Diamondback full suspension MTB

texts:
Can anyone help me with identifying a vintage Diamondback full suspension MTB? I know there are a ton of similar requests, but I need parts and I am stuck without the correct model/year of this Diamondback frame.

Regards and thanks for any help offered

Peter


texts: Can you identify this cheap single speed bike?

texts:
Is it worth $250?

Seller says he bought it for $350 from a bike shop.
It's got no visible decals from the pictures...


texts: How much pressure to inflate a tubeless tire so it seats into the rim

texts:
I want to set up my tires tubeless. I got a Schwalbe Tire Booster and have a proper air pump as well. The booster is capable of holding up to 11 bar of pressure. I am not sure how much pressure I have to put in there to initally inflate my tire so that I seat the tires (with a pop). I guess there are differences for tire size as well. All I could find searching the net was a hint of a mechanic to not go over 40 psi.
I have a 650/47 tire and a 700/42 tire but for the community it would be best to have an answer that fits for all possible combinations like a list or so.
Anyone who can help out here?


texts:
My aging mom is looking to start biking to work as a way to stay healthy. But as an aging women she needs certain things so that she feels safe and comfortable riding a bike about 15 minutes each way.

It must be somewhat covered to provide protection from the elements.
3 wheels would make her feel a lot more safe.
An electric assist would be very helpful.
It can't be super expensive.

Does there exist a bike that matches these requirements or at least designs to create such a bike?


texts: What is making my tire squeak without riding it?

texts: I have a Skullbone (HBB) bike. I aired up my tires and now it’s making this squeaking noise when I turn the wheel right to left (not when riding it). I’ve never had this problem before. I aired the tires up to 48 PSI. Can anyone tell me why I’m getting this noise?


texts: Is this a stunt or a useful descent technique?

texts:
In many mtb movies about the style "Downhill" the riders casually twist their fork and front tire at jumps, such as here and here.

Is this a stunt for "cool points" or does it aid in stability/speed in some way (as in, helps you finish first)?


texts: What are the advantages/disadvantages of press fit bottom brackets compared with threaded?

texts: Many standards for bottom brackets have been gaining popularity recently such as BB30 and PF30. What are the benefits of these press fit systems over the threaded system that has prevailed for decades? Any drawbacks to be aware of?


texts: Chainring and chain compatibility for Suntour chainring

texts:
just ordered a new chainring for my nexus-8 equipped longtail bike,
it's a suntour 48 tooth chainring shown here:
https://www.srsuntour.com/products/32-tooth-chainring?variant=27528743299

it's a 104mm 4 bolt chainring.

however I can't find specs for it anywhere - wondering if I can order a 3/32" chain (my rear sprocket spec says it works with either 1/8" or 3/32").

another thing to consider - the chain will be long (joining two chains together) as this is a longtail bike.

will the KMC Z1 (3/32") chain fit? can you recommend another?

thanks!


texts: Do studded tires make less than ideal railroad crossings worse?

texts:
I'm considering getting studded tires, but I'm concerned about a portion of my commute.  I go down this road both directions: 39° 40.468', -84° 14.340'.  This 2 lane narrow road has 2 railroad crossings from a parallel track next to the road in order to service a factory.  Both the road and the crossings are poor quality.

Considering the rule of thumb for railroad crossings is perpendicular as possible, this road doesn't allow that.  I'm not talking about the tire falling in the groove along the rail, just the tire trying to climb a rail.  On dry days, no problem, but when they are wet they cause a small slide to the side before the tire goes over the top of the rail.  What I'm worried about is that since the tire engages the track off center, will studs cause me even more troubles by not providing traction to climb the rail and cause the bike to slide out from under me as the tire follows the rail?

In my case, the bike is a 2008 Schwinn High Timber, 26x1.95 inch department store mountain front suspension with stock dirt trail tires.  Any tires I plan on buying are urban 26x1.50 to 26x1.75.


texts: Should I wipe my suspension fork stanchions with a wet or dry cloth after rides?

texts: Just wondering if I should use a wet or dry cloth to wipe my fork stanchions after each ride.


texts: How is "correct" tire pressure related to tire volume?

texts:
I have a unicycle with a Surly Endomorph 26"x3.7" tire, and I've discovered that this tire rides best at significantly lower pressure than smaller tires.

Even though I weigh ~110 kilos, I can ride this 3.7" tire at 12psi without pinch flats.

Previously I rode a 24"x2" Nokian tire that required at least 40psi.

Is there some known relationship where higher tire volume encourages lower tire pressure?


texts: I got hit by a car and it damaged the front wheel and fork. I took my bike (canyon inflite AL) into a store and they ordered a replacement fork and wheel. The problem is they had to replace one of the internal bolts in the headset because it had been stripped in the crash. I keep trying to reset the handlebars to be centered and they feel centered for a bit then it seems like they are off again. Has anyone else had this problem or have a solution they'd propose?


texts: Removing bottom bracket from 79 peugeot frame

texts:
I would like to remove the bottom bracket from an old french peugeot race frame. I believe the frame was built in 79 judging by the decals and stamp on the bb.

The bottom bracket and spindle at the moment will spin, but feel very dirty and sounds gritting so I want to take it apart to clean/regrease.

I'm almost certain its a french bb and not swiss based on the info on from cyclespeugeot.com.

I'm about ready to start this but have a few questions.

From what I have read, I only need to remove the left adjustable cup to service the BB?
The left adjustable cup will be left threaded so will need to turn clockwise to undo?
Is the lock ring also left threaded? It has an outer diameter of 47mm and i'm currently struggling to find a locking ring tool to fit.

I'm trying todo this properly as it seems getting a new or used french bb is not going to be worth it and I might as well get another frame.

If it helps, here are a couple of pictures:


texts:
I have a cx bike with disk brakes. I bought a second set of wheels to run road tyres while not off road. On my road bike there's always a minor adjustment to make to the brakes when changing wheelsets, and I assumed this would be no different on the disk brakes. However, it takes me the better part of an hour to readjust the brake calipers on my cx bike as they seem to be so vastly different.

Was this my mistake, should I have mounted the wheels before purchase? What do people here do with this sort of thing? Should I just dedicate more time to learning to efficiently adjust the brakes?

I have Avid BB5 mechanical brakes with Bontrager and now Shimano wheels.


texts: Shimano Nexus 7 speed IGH, high gears tight shift

texts:
I have the popular Shimano, Nexus 7 speed, internal gear hub. After removing the back wheel to replace the old tire, I've found that changing gears especially from 5 to 6 and 6 to 7 (especially the latter) is very tight.

It's however still possible, and all the gear shifting seems to work as it should, except the very tight pull required in the higher gears.
The gears are adjusted (the red dots point at each other perfectly in gear 4).

Any ideas what could be causing this, and/or what I could do to fix it back to normal?


texts: Avalanche upgrade cartridge for Boxxer, or tune existing?

texts:
I've got a stock Boxxer RC 2011 on my bike, and I'm not overly impressed with it's damping.  On fast small bumps it tends pack down, and on big hits it bottoms out.

As it's only got overall external compression and rebound adjusters, I can only help one scenario or the other.  My mate has the model up (R2C2), which has both the upper and lower travel adjusters for each type amongst others, and it seems to have vastly better performance.  However, having serviced both of them, it looks likes much of the difference is in facilitating the extra external adjusters (not all though).

So my question is:  Will I get vastly superior performance out of it by sending it away to have the damping cartridge custom tuned to my weight and riding style?  Or is it a bit naff by design, so bite the bullet and fork out for an Avalanche/Elka upgrade cartridge (they're custom tuned upon ordering anyway)?


texts: Outside of Schrader valve is inflating. This isn’t right, is it?

texts:
My wife has an old Moulton bike. I was inflating her tyres (small wheels, tyre imprinted ‘50 pounds’, when the rubber surround of the Schrader valve started inflating also.

It all seems quite airtight, but I don’t think it should do this, and I wonder why it is happening, and what I should do - replace the inner tube, or just let it get on with it?

I don’t want it to blow out when we are a few miles away from home.

Anybody seen this? Any thoughts and advice?


texts: What waterproofing rating is sufficient for a navigation device for touring?

texts:
I am exploring the possibility of using my phone as the main navigation device for touring. The phone (Pixel 2) is IP67-rated and I was planning to use it without any additional waterproofing, just attached to a Quad Lock handlebar mount.

I am now wondering whether serious rain is going to kill it or at least render temporarily unusable (touchscreen issues come to mind)?

Since I don't really want to find out the hard way, I thought I'd ask here in case any of you have relevant experience.

For comparison, my Edge 810 is IPX7 and has been fine in all sorts of conditions.

As an alternative to putting my main phone at risk, I am contemplating getting a cheap IP68-rated rugged phone (like BV5800 Pro). Not really sure whether it's likely to fair better (higher ingress protection rating) or worse (presumably cheaper construction).

P. S. Having looked into this further, I came across MIL-STD-810G. There are quite a few devices that advertise this, but I am not sure how much attention to pay to it (given that it's self-certification just like IP ratings are)?

P. P. S. There are phones that are specifically advertised as being operable with wet or gloved fingers (for example CAT S41). Not sure whether this in any way relates to MIL-STD-810G, or how much attention to pay to it. Would love your input.


texts: Why aren't average speeds computed over distance?

texts:
Average speed is computed so that average speed = total distance / total time. This means that if you go up a hill, which takes a long time, your average speed drops. This isn't regained on the downhill, since going down takes so much less time.

If you compute the average over distance instead (i.e., your speed every tenth of a mile), the uphill and downhill are equally weighted, since they have the same number of samples. This means that your average is closer to what your speed would be on flat ground.

Your speed over flat ground seems more important to me. It doesn't depend on how hilly your route is, and that way you could compare cyclists more easily. Why don't we compute the average speed over distance instead?

Clarification edit: I know that average speeds are computed with time because we care about the average speed -- it'd take me that same amount of time to travel a certain distance if I traveled my time-average speed.

I don't care about time anywhere here (minus speed) -- the definition of average speed doesn't bother me, I'm just wondering why this isn't a more widespread metric.


texts: Recommendations on how to buy clipless bike shoes

texts:
Edit: everyone who's answered has been very helpful -- I tried to select all 3 answers as "the" answer but in the end it only let me choose one. Thanks to all!
I'm interested in purchasing my first pair of clipless bike shoes, principally in order to get the bike fitted properly, but also for performance reasons.  I've put it off until now because I've been a bit nervous about getting stuck and falling over.
I'd welcome your recommendations on what to look for, how they should fit (in comparison to regular shoes, as well), whether there are any types or brands that are 'safer' (easier to unfasten from the pedals in an emergency), and whether there are any tips you can offer from your experience.
For what it's worth, I have a Giant gravel bike which I'm riding solely in asphalt at the moment, but am thinking of moving to a road bike one of these days.
Thanks in advance


texts:
My e-bike manufacturer recommends a service every 1000km. Tomorrow I'll bring my bike to the shop where I bought it for the first service. I already had a mini-service for free at around 300 km in which I don't know what they did exactly, probably some fine screw tuning.

My bike is a city bike built by a reputable manufacturer. I ride it nearly everyday to work. The city has some serious hills.

What can I expect the shop where I'll bring my e-bike will be doing for this ~1000km service? (And will it be the same for every 1000km services in the future?)


texts: Freehub Seal Orientation "Axis Sport Disc"

texts:
I've serviced my freehub, and on putting it back together am unsure of the correct orientation of the seal between the hub body and the freehub.

I have a 2018 Specialized Diverge E5 Sport, with a 12x142mm thru-axle "Axis Sport Disc" wheel. I can't find any information regarding the specific hub used. It has "Axis" written on it, that's all. I've searched for information regarding what this hub might be but I couldn't find anything.

Can anyone tell from these photos which way around the seal should be?


texts:
I am curious if anyone uses a skiing helmet for winter biking? Would this be safe? Are skiing helmets designed to protect you from the same kind of accidents that you would have on a bike?

My thinking is that a ski helmet would:

Help to keep your ears warm
Would fit well with ski goggles (which fit poorly with my bike helmet)
Not have air vents in it which make you cold in the winter


texts:
I'm using my bike to commute between my work and home (~10km). In the middle of my trip I have to use a ferry and have to put my bike on the deck.

Within 2 weeks of the trip I could see my cassette and some nuts started to rust. Frame is aluminium and I didn't see any rusty spots on it. Since I've never used my bike this much in salty/humid environment I don't know anything how to protect it from rusting.

Is there any grease that I should use for nuts and other open steel surfaces to prevent rust?

Or should I just gently wash my bike every day after coming home ?


texts: Can a 2012 Carrera Vulcan run 26 x 2.25 tires?

texts:
I'm looking to replace my tires.

Currently I have the standard 26x2.1 tires that came with the bike and am looking to replace them with a set of 26x2.25, could this be done?


texts: I realize I've been riding for a year using this configuration, I have a suntour sf13-xcm-ds-hlo-26-100 (which I think was designed for 26). Suntour website doesn't provide full info about the Fork, will I have a problem with the wheel or the fork?


texts: My hydraulic MTB brakes squeal after I cleaned my bike

texts: My hydraulic MTB brakes stated to squeal after I washed my bike why?


texts:
I bought a set of these about 18 months ago now and for a little while they continued to work as they should but then now they're seized up.

Is there anything (short of ordering another pair) I can do to release them? They're not stuck to the bike or anything like that, it's just that the grippy  bit is supposed to spin independently of the hex bit.


texts: 1x10 drivetrain against 1x11 drivetrain on mountain bike

texts: What are the advantages/disadvantages apart from the obvious loss of one gear in the middle somewhere if both drivetrains start and end on the same size cogs


texts:
My bike is 10 years old and has Shimano ultegra triple crankset.

Being my first road bike, I assumed it was my skill when the gears would drop on their own or kick the chain off. I took it in to shop several times and the mechanic would tinker with the derailleur or other parts. I have changed the chain a few time but the problem never stops.  Suggestions?  I am at the point of just getting all new crankset.


texts: How to install brakes with clamps that are too tight

texts:
I recently picked up a set of Avid DB1's and put them on my bike, but it was a bear to get them on. For background, they've got a split clamp that is similar to a seat tube where simple compression keeps it in place versus a two-piece clamp that requires more than one screw to tighten.

What I found was that the clamp, even when loosened all the way, would not slide down the handlebar and I had to shimmy it back and forth to move them further in, which ended up scratching and removing a large amount of paint (it's ok, that part goes under the grips). But this doesn't seem right to me. Is there:

a better way to install them?
different handlebar diameters that would complicate installation?
something else I totally missed?


texts:
I'm considering buying clipless pedals for riding my bike on the weekend, but they might not be the best choice for a 15 minute ride to work during the week—I'd need to drag along my regular shoes in a backpack anyways, I need to stop at a bunch of intersections (Manhattan), etc.

From a quick Google I saw an article about changing pedals "quickly" in 5 minutes. I assume this is for people that are particularly good at it and have practiced a lot, and it will still involve tools. Are there systems that allow me to quickly remove and swap out pedals, in 10 seconds or so? Like swapping a seat or a wheel.

I know that there are combination pedals, but these seem like they might be the worst of both worlds? Mediocre at being a flat pedal, mediocre at being a clipless pedal?


texts: I have anime that I lost it owners manual .. So it's question for me is here anyway to find out the model of that ?


texts: Which road shifters will work with Shimano Deore (M)610 Groupset?

texts:
I'd like to get the Shimano Deore 610 Groupset 3x10 but want to run drop handlebars with brifters (brakes & shifters combined) but it seems like this is almost impossible...

I've been told by one support person from the online site I'm buying from that I can use 105 brifters and front deraileur and this might be compatible. I've been told by another support person to just go Tiagra 4703 but I really would prefer V-Brakes (descending the Alps), the lower gear ratios (climbing the Alps) and the €100 saving of the Deore.

I know I've got two issues, gear indexing and brake cable pull ratio but is there any brifters that will allow me to use Deore successfully without huge amounts of faff?

Thanks...


texts: Are dimpled chainstays weaker than smooth ones, other things equal?

texts: Here are two frames: Velo Orange Campeur and New Albion Drake. Assume that they are made of essentially the same steel, 4130 CrMo. The Drake has a very pronounced dimple on the inside, to help increase tire clearance. The Campeur, as far as I can tell, has no such dimple, so let's assume that the Campeur chainstay is entirely dimple-free, inside or out. Other things equal, would this difference make the Drake a weaker frame?


texts: What should one look for when picking Chamois Creme? Are there ingredients to stay away from or that should be in a quality creme?


texts: How to remove this Shimano cassette (actually: freewheel)?

texts: A neighbour approached me to help him with removing the cassette from the wheel in the picture below. I am familiar with the modern Shimano lockring but would appreciate tips how to remove this one.


texts:
So people say you should change cables because of stretch. But after the cables have stretched, isn't it just easier and cheaper to adjust the cable and pull it a bit tighter?
Why do I need to replace the entire cable?


texts: Groups overtaking groups: how to communicate for safety?

texts:
I have just been back from a biking vacation with another fellow cyclist, and we have met a lot of other cyclists: from the most serious ones to those taking the bike once every eon.

When we had to overtake a group of cyclists, our procedure was:

check if there was oncoming traffic in the front
check if there were cyclists on the back
ring the bell to alert about a bike overtaking
overtake

The problem we faced pretty often was that, if there were some cyclists pedaling next to each other talking, they would move in line and then, after being overtaken by the first cyclist, would get back side to side while the other one was still overtaking, sometime even zigzagging while doing so.

This is a risk per se, but when we were on a cycle path in the woods it was even more dangerous, as there was not that much space for a different trajectory and we had panniers on both sides.

Therefore my question: how can I clearly communicate how many bikes are overtaking a group of cyclists?


texts: Is there a tool (or preferred method) for removing the snapring that holds the cog on a coaster brake hub?

texts:
I was overhauling a coaster hub the other day. The snapring was recessesed and no screwdriver in my arsenal was small enough to remove the piece.

Park recommends using a small screwdriver to remove the ring:

I resorted to digging it out with the small blade on my Swiss army knife. I know this is stupid for several reasons; that's why I'm asking if there's a better way. Is there some kind of weird pliers or something that's designed to make snapring removal a snap? Or is there a better way?


texts: How do I place the seat back 20 cm with a full suspension bike?

texts:
Here are 2 ideas for a makeshift design. The first one is no not that good. The second idea seems more doable using 2 heavy duty seatpost attached luggage racks.
The seatpost is 33mm diameter, dunno if that the official size but it's as close as I could measure it. The seat is great. The bike is aluminium alloy so I wish to keep it light.
Is there a pro solution to putting the seat back like this?


texts: What's the correct term for a 700x23c disc wheel?

texts:
I'm looking to convert my fixie to a front wheel disc brake set up. I've narrowed down a fork that looks promising, and I'm on to the wheel.

I've got 700x23c tires I want to keep, so I want the wheel to fit. I understand the hub needs to be disc brake compatible. When I search for it (700x23c disc wheel OR 700x23c disc hub wheel).

What's the right term to search for that I'll get results for the product type that I'm looking for?


texts:
I have a Marin Bolinas Ridge 7.1, I am not happy with the front large chain ring size, I mainly ride on the road, and have an extremely limited budget. I would take it to the LBS, however, I believe that would cost at least an hours time just to find out what it is that I have.

More so than anything, I am trying to find out the specs as the ones on their website only list it as forged. I have determined that it is a 110 BCD with a tapered square. An email to the company revealed that they are not sure what is in it, and possibly riveted chain ring(s). (Bolinas Ridge 7.1 ). I also do not have the tools to pull it apart for a better idea of what I should be looking for. If anyone has changed one of these I would like to find out a lot more.

edit- original teeth are 42, i was looking to go either 48 or 50.

p.s.I have since learned that it should be a regular square taper, so I will be getting another crank. At that point, I should be able to figure out the ring.

Thank you for your interest.


texts:
I did 140km ride 4 days ago, and 200km ride yesterday. After that second ride I was really tired. I didn't have any muscle sores, I averaged 25km/h, I could safely do more. But the whole body was in pain from ~8h on the bike alone. I was also feeling very tired and had to go to sleep early, and after 10 hours of sleep, I woke up tired as hell and right now I still can feel it, my head aches, coffe doesn't help etc.

I want to be able to do 3 such rides with 1 day breaks between, but I won't be able to do so if my regeneration will be that slow, and I will be dying that long after training days.

Is it normal? Is this trainable?


texts: Online spin classes with a smart trainer

texts:
I have a smarttrainer that I use primarily with Trainerroad and Zwift.
My wife is interested in Peloton style classes. We're considering getting a Peloton, but considering we already have the gear (trainer w/ power meter, a bike that fits her well), we'd like to explore options that DON'T involve buying a Peloton bike but still has the benefits of live classes.
What can you tell me, objectively, about the following:

How's the Peloton app-only experience when using a smart trainer rather than a Peloton bike?
Are there any online cycle apps that are built to integrate well with smart trainers so they can provide things like leaderboards and perhaps auto resistance changes

Thanks


texts: How helpful are neon/led lights on the rims, while riding at night?

texts:
Recently I saw few cyclists at night with blue neon lights attached to the spokes on their rims. They just kept one each at the back, so it wasn't that effective.

But having at least 2 of such lights (both front and back) can make a rider very visible at night and avoid possible dangers.

The riding style I am talking about is for both commuting or trailing at night.

How effective are these lights?


texts: Converting Jamis Coda Comp from 8 speed to 10 speed?

texts: I have a 2013 Jamis Coda Comp hybrid with 8-speed Acera/Altus groupset parts.  I'd like to replace the whole drivetrain with 10-speed Tiagra. Is this doable? Anything I should be aware of?


texts: Converting Sram Force 22 crank to Force 1

texts: I have an existing Sram Force 22 groupset and want to convert this to a Force 1X system. My question is in relation to the chain rings. If I just swop the rings for the a narrow wide Sram Force 1 chainring will this automatically fit into my existing crank arm? Or do I need to replace the whole crank? Also if I do just replace the rings, would I need smaller chainring bolts or will the existing ones work. I will be using all Sram parts.


texts: How to remove the fork off this Peugeot Nouveau

texts:
I have this Peugeot Nouveau fold up bicycle that I'm trying to restore, but I can't manage to remove the forks from the frame. I've removed the handle bars and the stem(?) as well as the pieces that were holding the bars but there's another piece that I can't find the name of, that I'm unable to remove which is preventing me from removing the forks and bearings.
Does anyone have an idea of what the name/ piece is and how to remove it?
So far I've tried placing a piece of wood on top of the frame and hitting down in hopes it'd slide off but the wood is taking more of a beating.


texts:
I'm building a balance bike for a daycare kid. He is tall so I have a longer frame for him, but I think the tires might he too big.
Can I put 12.5" tires on forks for 16" tires?


texts: After bump, bicycle feel as though tyre is flat (it is not)

texts:
I ride a 1970s steel-framed french racing bike. A couple of days ago I went over a small pothole whilst leaning on the front brakes at some speed, and although nothing happened it's since felt strange when riding in a straight line, almost tramlining. It's as if the front tyre is flat; there's an unnatural resistance to changing direction that there never used to be. Both tyres are pumped up, both wheels are true, and there's no discernible play anywhere that I can find.

I'd be grateful for any suggestions as to what this could be the cause of this!


texts: What is causing noise/vibration high power input on right hand (drive side) crank?

texts:
I am getting a repetitive grinding sound/slight vibration while fully mashing on my Kona-humu single speed.

Description of Problem
This grinding is more similar to what you would hear from an un-greased chain (maybe clicking is a better term) but much loader. This noise/vibration is also accompanied by a slight resistance. It only occurs during hard pedaling and only during right hand crank input.

Attempted diagnosis
Since the issue only occurs during hard pedaling I've had a difficult time coming up with reasonable ways to diagnose. After the first 5-10 cycles I am spinning fast enough I cannot provide the needed input to reproduce the noise/vibration. I have tried to use brakes and building to hold me up right and put lots of pressure on the drive train to flex the frame and see where there may be rubbing. This has not produced much.

Possible Issues

Chain line - I'm thinking it could be a chain line issue when the frame is torqued. Eyeballing is the chain line looks good to me without a load on the drive train, and it was recently inspected while installing a new BB at the LBS.

Front chain ring - If the chain line is off the issue maybe from the added friction of the chain "popping" as it engages and disengages the chain ring.
Rear cog - Same issue as the Front chain ring but happening on the rear cog
Front chain ring guard - While recently installing a new BB the LBS noted the extremely tight clearance on the chain ring guard. Doing my best to diagnose as I ride I couldn't see an obvious collision with the chain ring guard, but it's hard to tell for sure while moving.
Frame - I'm fairly certain there is just too much clearance in all directions for this to be an issue.
Something else - Maybe there is an additional issue I'm not aware of?

Rear tire rubbing on frame - The wheel is fairly centered in the frame with about a half inch on either side and again I don't see this happening while riding.
Something else altogether?


texts: Do road bike shoes offer an increase in power transfer over mtb shoes if the sole is a similar stiffness?

texts: Is there an argument against the use of road shoes if your were planning on time trialling and criterium races?


texts: Touching the front wheel with my foot when turning

texts:
My girlfriend got a new city bike today and she touches the front wheel every time she has to make a hard turn.

Is there anyway to avoid this besides replacing the whole bike?

LATER EDIT:
I think I found my answer here.


texts:
I have a 1972 Schwinn Breeze with a Sturmey Archer AW 3-speed hub (no coaster brake).  I would like to replace the internals of the AW hub with the internals of an AWC hub (which has a coaster brake).

Is this conversion possible without replacing the outer casing of the AW hub?  Not sure if the two hubs have interchangeable internals.


texts: How to practice SPD release in very steep uphills?

texts:
Some time ago I got SPD pedals for my MTB.

When going downhill or rather flat these pedals are awesome. However, I have problems using them on sharp uphill with roots/rocks. Because it's steep, I need to use a lot of power but suddenly the bike might just stop in a heartbeat, since the back wheel might slip on a wet stone/root or something. Currently I usually crash at that moment with SPD pedals but with flat pedals it's no problem.

The question is: How do I practice to get really good at stepping out of the pedals at very steep uphills, without actually trying and crashing (since it hurts alot!)?


texts: I recently bought a bike online and I wanted to make sure it was the bike I paid for. I looked for the serial number on the bottom of the bike and couldn't find it. Where else would they put the serial number on a 24 inch Haro?


texts: If a derailleur cable snaps on a long ride, how can I keep going?

texts:
A couple weeks ago I rode around Crater Lake, a 35 mile ride with over 4500 feet of cumulative elevation gain – the sort of ride you really want functional gears for.

The night before my rear derailleur cable snapped while I was biking home from work. I was able to make it to the bike shop with minutes to spare before they closed, and bought a replacement cable. Everything worked fine on the ride, but it got me to wondering what I could do if my cable had snapped a bit later and broken mid-ride.

I'm not sure if this is universal, but on my bike and many I've seen, if the rear derailleur cable snaps, the rear gear will slip down to the smallest-diameter gear (i.e. the highest gear). This would make it almost impossible to climb significant hills and get home.

Is there any simple fix one can do in the field with just basic tools that would enable you to get home on a broken derailleur, specifically when there are significant climbs that can only be done in a lower gear? Is there some way to force the derailleur to a certain position that you would find most useful, and keep it from slipping down from there?


texts: How good or bad would chainsaw bar lubricant be as a bicycle chain lube?

texts:
A former coworker asked me this today, and I don't have a good answer.  He has access to plentiful quantities of chainsaw bar lubricant, the stuff that helps a chainsaw's chain move around the metal support poking out the front of a chainsaw.

Bar lube is primarily intended to decrease friction between a non-moving metal surface and the backside of a cutting chain.  Secondary effects are lubing the chain and helping to transfer heat away from the chain to the bar.

Its got to be better than CRC or WD40, but would bar lube be just simply worse than proper chain lubricants, or a lot worse?

Personally I'd just use proper bike chain lube. The question is specifically about chainsaw bar lube.


texts: Tubeless tyres deflating - serious problem or just because I don't have sealant?

texts:
Both the (new) tyres I have bought deflate overnight: I have to pump them up again every time I want to ride them.

This happened before I even rode them for the first time, so no punctures.

Is this just because I haven't got around to adding sealant yet, or is it a serious problem with the rim/tyre? The wheel is Shimano Ultegra 6800.


texts: Broke my fork, how can I know if another one is compatible?

texts:
I've got a Specialized Pitch Pro 2009.

I was casually riding my bike and softly depressed the front brakes. Bam! Metaliic noises! The caliper went flying into the air.

Apparently, the little circle on the fork that the screw that holds the ear for the caliper goes through, broke.

This is unfixable (is it?) and I have to replace the whole damn fork now.

The fork is Rockshox Pike 351 (according to the internet, couldn't find any print on the fork) and I measured 140mm.

I might have a good deal on a lightly used Fox Float 32 150mm (2014).

How can I know that it will fit on my bike?

I understood that a crucial part is the steerer length.
How can I measure that on my current broken fork? Like, where does it starts and ends?
Both are 1 1/8". Is that all the information necessary?. I also heard that "cutting" a fork is a thing for weird frames. Is this true? Will I have to do this on the fork I buy?


texts: Is there any use to motor pacing for people in the cat 4 to cat 2 range actually useful?

texts:
In the local cycling club some people are keen on racing but are no higher than cat 3 in the events that they can enter and the power that they produce. The general consensus is that motor pacing could be the 'secret sauce' that improves everyone's level of performance before next years race season.

Other are sceptical and make the point that its only for people with high enough power outputs that can only be consistently matched by a motorcycle. I agree with this point but cant help but wonder if there is something I am missing, does pedalling at this speed and cadence prepare your legs faster or could the same effects (for cat 4-3 power riders) be achieved by fast group rides?


texts: Tiagra 4503 front derailleur replacement

texts:
I have a bike with a 4503 Shimano setup (Tiagra triple, 9 speed). The front derailleur is broken.

I can quickly get a 105 derailleur (5703) at the local bike shop. I just want to be sure that it is compatible with my shifters, and be sure I can get a clean shifting experience.

Differences between the old and new front derailleur:

Tiagra vs 105
9 speed vs 10 speed

Can anyone confirm the FD-5703 will work on my bike?


texts:
I have a roval carbon wheel on specialized epic hard tail.
I want to install son dynamo hub on it.
I've seen it done on https://bikepacking.com/plan/lael-wilcox-2019-tour-divide-gear-list/
(SON 15mm thru-axle hub / Roval carbon rim)
Although I don't know the exact model of the hub or rim.
Is there a right size hub for wheels?
Searching for son 15mm thru-axle gives me two versions SON 28 15 and SON 28 15 110.
Can I go with any of these two?
After installing hub, how do you put the wheel back?
Do you replace spokes with the right size and tighten it?


texts: Is this a short cage or long cage rear derailleur?

texts: Is there an easy, objective way to tell?


texts: I am just going to re-wrap my road bike's handlebar tape tomorrow.  Before I do that I was wondering what the proper place is to put the brake levers.  I know they should be pointed vertically, however I was wondering if there is a rule of thumb.


texts: I have the chainring shown below. It's the front sprocket of an ebike. Does this chainring need replacing or are the teeth still OK?


texts:
There seem to be two approaches to single speed freewheels:

Screw on to the hub a combined freewheel/sprocket combination (eg. White Industries ENO)
Slide on a single sprocket to an existing splined freehub body, and use spacers to correct the chainline

I have the former (KT-SY1F / KT-MX7R 6-Bolt Disc hub, Shimano SF MX-30 16T), but I am thinking about upgrading my wheels.
But most high-end hubs (eg Hope Pro 4) appear to come with a splined freehub body. Are these compatible (or can they be made to be compatible) with the screw-on freewheel/sprocket combo? If so, can the chainline be corrected for in this configuration?


texts: Grease or anti-seize for alloy thru-axle-to-QR adapter?

texts: I've got a 26" front wheel with HB-M758 15x100mm thru-axle hub that I'll be using on a QRx100mm front fork. Going to install my alloy 15mm-to-QR axle adapter, it's a tight fit, which is good. Since the adapter is aluminum and the hub shaft is steel (I think), I'm just wondering if I should use anti-seize to lubricate it rather than standard grease.


texts: Aluminum fork: paint defect or sign of strained?

texts:
I know there's a lot of question regarding paint defect or crack.
But I need your opinion about this.
Recently, I bought new bike but discounted and it's the last piece of it.
On the back of the aluminum fork has this appearance:

I thought it's really about paint defect or it isn't?
What's the possibility if somehow deformed?
I didn't see or feel any problem when attaching the front wheel and when riding it.
Means that there's no apparent bent or misalignment between left/right fork.
I'm really curious. Thanks!!!


texts: Is it more economical to true a cheap wheel or to buy a better wheelset?

texts:
Truing wheels around here costs about 20 dollars.

I have a cheap rear wheel that has 32 spokes. This is a rear wheel that came with a Bikes Direct bike, to give you an idea of its quality. The hubs are unbranded and the rims are Alex DA14s. The wheel is severely out of true and I've resorted to taking off the rear brake pads. The front wheel is better off but not by much.

I could buy a new Shimano wheelset for about 100 dollars. From what I read online these wheels come true and stay relatively true for a few thousand miles easily. My experience with lower-end, big-brand wheels has been wholly positive too - they've all stayed very true and none of them have required re-truing.

I could also spend about 90 dollars and get the Performance Titan wheelset. The thing about these is that they crack after a few thousand miles apparently. But I don't mind since Performance has a lifetime satisfaction warranty, so even if they fail, I can just exchange them for a new one, free of charge.

Would it be worth buying the new wheelset and running them down into the ground or truing up my cheap wheels? To me, truing my cheap wheelset once gets me halfway there to a new wheelset that likely won't require any truing during its lifetime. What do you think?


texts: Do I need a new tire pump or can I fix my old one?

texts: My old bike pump psi gage shows a different pressure than my newer hand held tire gauge. Is there a way to fix the pump or do I need a new one?


texts: I didnt ride my bicycle for almost 2 years now. It was in my room all this time. Do i need to lube the chain up or am i good to go? Thanks! Benjamin.


texts: Best type of bike lock (materials, style, etc.)

texts:
I recently lost the keys to my lock and had to borrow a bolt cutter to free my bike. It was a bit of an eye opener to realise a) just how easy it was for the bolt cutters to cut through my D Lock (<10 seconds), and b) that nobody on a busy town shopping street batted an eyelid at me doing so.

When choosing a new lock, what should I look for in terms of build material or design that would make it harder to cut through (using relatively small/discrete bolt cutters)?


texts: Why does my floor pump only fill a presta valve tire after a pop sound?

texts:
I have had a generic floor pump from an online bike catalog company for years, and have filled many Schrader valve tires with it without any problems.   I have recently started to use Presta valve tires.   When I try and pump air into a Presta valve tire, the air doesn't seem to go into the tire.   It takes me several trys at reseating the pump to get it to work, and every time it does work, there is a distinctive "pop" sound.
How do I get it to work every time?


texts: What tools do I absolutely need to replace brake cables?

texts:
I'm happy with the job I did replacing the drivetrain on my road bike, and I'm ready to tackle replacing the brake cables. Unfortunately, I did a little research and it's been suggested that I need a few new tools. If I go by what's been recommended, I'll be spending well over $100 on tools.

I'm okay with buying used tools or brands other than Park Tool, but I don't want to cheap out on the brakes. Stopping is pretty important!

Fourth hand cable stretcher - I think this is one tool I'll need to get, or something similar. I see Pedro's makes a version of it, I'm not sure if it's made as solidly or not. What should I look for when buying one of these?
Cutter pliers I have a couple of similar cutting pliers, I don't think I need to get another one. Or is there something special about these?
Cable housing cutter - Looks to me like this is a fancy wire stripper. Is there anything about brake housing cables that I need to know that would make using a sharp wire stripper problematic?

Please keep in mind that I'm not a shop, and will be replacing cables maybe every year or two at most. I'm okay with the job being less convenient, but not less safe.


texts: Safety of taking a bicycle to a country where they drive on the other side of the road?

texts:
Bicycles are different in countries where people drive on the other side of the road.  Suppose I have a bicycle and I am moving to a country on another continent where people drive on the other side.
I have these obvious options:

Sell my low-end bike and buy a new (to me) bike in the new country.
Ship my bike and reverse the brake controls.
Ship my bike and continue using it unchanged.

What is the safest option?  Are there ever legal requirements?


texts: How do I remove my bicycle handlebars that are connected by a single rusted bolt?

texts: I'm trying to remove the HANDLEBARS from the stem of my bike and the handlebars are put into the stem and secured with a bolt. However, the bolt is rusted and will not budge no matter how hard I go at it. Thanks!!


texts: Does crank length affect the number of gears a bicycle needs?

texts:
When I was a child I noticed that as I out-grew my bike (or when I rode a smaller child's bike) I felt like I could accelerate better. The smaller bike seemed 'nippier', and in hindsight it was similar to driving a diesel with quite a flat torque curve. I now imagine this is what it would be like to ride with short cranks.
So the question is: if I rode with 135mm cranks could I get away with fewer gears than when riding with 175+mm cranks?
Edit:
I have read a similar question now. It doesnt address the biomechanics of how cranklength effects the varying proportion of glute and quads during the rotation. The closest this was addressed was in a comment to that question that noted the difference between doing a half squat and a full squat. I feel long cranks tends to a full squat, which feels weak.
The gain ratio is valid but fairly intuitive.
It would be great to find papers that reference anatomical models that have muscle length force functions coupled with the thigh and shin bone levers that can be converted into graphs of force/torque  contributions of muscles at the pedal over a whole cycle for varying power levels and cranklengths.
Or experimental data on max cadence range at which varying power levels (say 50%,60%,70%,80%,90%) can be maintained for different cranklengths.


texts: Need help identifying year of Ultegra rear derailleur

texts:
I am helping a friend sell triathlon bike (he recently bought a mountain bike and does not need to have more bikes sitting around), and so I am trying to gather more information around the bike to provide as many details as possible to potential buyers. It's a 2009 orbea Aletta. He's got a FSA front derailleur and Shimano 105 shifters (he converted the tri bike into a roadie). According to the BBB, it does not look like the bike is worth a whole lot, but it is better than nothing!
If anyone has any clue, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!


texts: Can i use claris R2000 rd on 14-34T mega range sprocket?

texts:
I have sprocket 14-34T with mega range. I planned to change my old (maybe 1990's) shimano tourney rd to shimano claris R2000 medium cage. Some of my local bike shop said that i can replace with claris rd. But, I search a little bit about claris R2000. I found that claris has top sprocket max 13T and top sprocket min 11T. On the other hand my top sprocket have 14T.
Anyone have experience?


texts: I have just damaged shifter and it is no longer usable. Is it possible to replace it with something cheaper and more available? It is just commuter/winter-bike, so I just need it to work and less it costs, better it is.


texts: Is it ok to pair 11-36T cassette 11 speed with 50-34T Crankset?

texts: Is it ok to pair 11 speed 11-36T cassette with 50-34T crankset? And is Shimano 105 RD compatible with this setup? I'm planning this setup for my Japanese vintage touring bike.


texts: Can I use Shimano Claris shifter to my Shimano Tourney road bike

texts:
Planning to upgrade my road bike and buying a Shimano claris because my bike shifter still thumb shift

Can I use a 8 speed Shimano Claris shifter to my 7 speed Shimano Tourney ?


texts: Can I use a seat-post clamp/collar on the seat-post itself to prevent slipping?

texts:
I have a Cannondale Synapse (2015 model), and have swapped the stock Cannondale seat-post for a Thomson Elite inline seat-post. However, I am experiencing problems with the seatpost slipping, even when tightening to 5Nm, as specified on the Cannondale frame. The seatpost clamping mechanism is an internal two-wedge system.

The frame is carbon, and the seatpost is aluminium. I am using carbon paste, but this does not seem to have truly solved the problem.

I am considering adding a Thomson seat post collar directly onto the seat post, but am nervous about adding extra downward stress onto the carbon frame.


texts: Positioning of mobile phone on handlebar

texts:
When using a maps app on a smartphone, I find it distinctly more appealing to position the phone in landscape mode. I'm not entirely clear why, perhaps because the app designers (google maps, say) pay special attention to this orientation.

Does the same hold true for cycling? I'm expecting that portrait mode would be more helpful, to see farther ahead where one is going.

The sturdiest designs for mobile phone handlebar holders are meant for one or the other. Rare are the designs allowing one to rotate. I'm shopping for one, hence the question.


texts: Can I glue this crack as a temporary solution?

texts:
I suddenly noticed a crack in my frame.

Is it practical for me to use glue to seal it off as a temporary solution?

Edit: Further information  ...two incidents so far. Someone opened their driver side door on me and I slammed into it. That considerably weakened it. Then I fell again while turning a sharp corner, it broke it.

Update from 29th Jan 2019:

I went to a bike shop and they told me they could not replace it; I need to talk to the shop where I bought it from and get a replacement from them. Does it have to go this way? I would imagine this fork could be easily replaced.


texts: I'm brand new to cycling and I have an entry level Cannondale catalyst 3. I was riding my bike on a trail and when I got home I noticed my right pedal was wobbling around. I tightened it but the pedal still wobbles around. I'm thinking the crank arm thread is stripped but I don't know. the crankset and the pedals are all default that came on the bike when I bought it. I'm on a low budget so is there any way I can fix this or do I have to get a new crank set? PLEASE HELP


texts:
I spend the vast majority of my time inside, so I would like to start getting into cycling. I rode up to the beach a couple days ago and got some slight sunburn. I personally don't mind sunburn all too much, but the news has successfully instilled a fear of skin cancer into me.

My initial reaction to articles like: http://shine.yahoo.com/healthy-living/the-new-rules-of-sun-safety-2477938.html that make claims such as:

  It's not smart to go out-of-doors unprotected.

..was that the writers were absolutely nuts. We've spent our entire evolutionary history under the sun - to think that short excursions outdoors would be dangerous seems ludicrous. But then, people are living much longer than they ever did before and, if there are dangerous aspects of sun exposure, the increase in greenhouse gases might be adding to them.

So, does anyone know the reality behind all of this? Should I wear sunblock, or is skin cancer only a risk for people outside all day everyday?


texts: What are the best MTB Tennis Shoes ? (without clippers)

texts: Can anyone recommend any type of tennis shoe that could help me not to slip while on my mountain bike but without having to use clippers. The thing about clippers is that I hate not having enough time to react when I´m close or about to fall.


texts: 6 speed derailleur works for 7 speed cog?

texts:
I am confused with description it say 6 speed, but below mention 7 speed as well.
Will this derailleur work on 7 speed freewheel?


texts: Why are bicycles considered vehicles and not "walking aid"?

texts:
The Bicycles.SE blog states "Cyclists are vehicles, not pedestrians.". I think most of this community, plus most of the laws agree with that.

However, a cyclist has the speed, mass and maneuverability of a sprinting person (who is, of course, a pedestrian).

Why are bicycle riders considered vehicles and not pedestrians?


texts: Why aren’t there more tricycles with rear disk brakes (between the two rear wheels)

texts:
Just curious if anyone has seen these before, it would be a rare bird.  I'm looking for a trike where the mount for the rear disk brake is mid-axle between the two rear wheels.  What are the technical or marketing reasons these aren’t these more common?

My friend's trike has some terrible hub/band-brake on the rear axle.  I put on on a front 180mm disk brake, that helped immensely, but I'm very curious about a rear disk brake too.  A fully loaded trike plus the unloaded weight of a trike can be quite significant.  [NB:  looking for a non e-bike trike]


texts:
Out of interest I would like to understand the benefits of having a 15mm or 20mm through axle over a 9mm QR (and a 10mm vs. a 12mm TA on the rear).

What difference does it make to the ride?


texts: How to slow yourself down (for playing nice with others)

texts: I have a road/touring bike that I take on longer rides with other folks. Sometimes other folks are riders of similar ability, and sometimes not. When I ride with people who ride slower, rather than changing my touring configuration (more upright bike, getting rid of clipless shoes/pedals) I'd like to just add some resistance to slow myself down/make myself work harder on the bike: this would make me go same speed as other folks while training harder than I would otherwise. I can imagine attaching an old-style bottle generator, but are there other good ways of adding drag/resistance to an existing bike setup?


texts:
I have heard rumors that (excessive) stretching can hurt cycling performance. Specifically, stretching one's hamstrings and/or quadriceps supposedly reduces sprinting power. Is there any factual basis for the claim that increased flexibility leads to less power?  I would also be interested in evidence for the opposite: that loosening one's muscles leads to an increase in cycling performance.

Note, I am not referring to over-stretching related injuries (like a strain), but rather to the results of long-term, correctly-practiced stretching that leads to increased flexibility.


texts: Are cable housings different for road/MTB/urban bikes?

texts:
I need to get a new kit for the derailleur: cable, housing, and a couple of ferrules.

I know that derailleur cables are the same for road bikes and MTB bikes, but are there differences in cable housings as well? I notice some web sites have different sections for each, as if they are different.

Thank you.


texts: What type chain lube should you use in a sand and salt water enviroment?

texts: I rent bikes in remote beach locations. What lubrication will reduce rust and sand accumulation?


texts: Do I need to shorten chain when fitting a new smaller cassette?

texts:
My current cassette is 11-36 and I want to change it to 11-32.
Can I stay with my current chain or I need to modify my current chain to fit the new cassette?


texts: Tiagra upshifting jumping 3-4 gears in middle of cassette

texts:
My Tiagra 10-speed shifters have recently been jumping multiple gears.
Shifting down (from smallest cog to biggest) is fine (10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1), though maybe a little stiff. But shifting up will jump in the middle (1-2-3-4567-8-9-10) with single pushes of the paddle casing the gears to crash up multiple gears in the middle.

I've ridden 20K miles (32K Km) on this bike. The shifter cable was replaced in May, about 250 miles ago (this is my winter bike), and the rear mech was new in February.

So I'm thinking maybe the shifters are just worn out?

Or should I just replace them?

Are the shifters serviceable?

Or could it be something else? I don't think it's cable tension as I'm shifting up fine - but I'm not a mechanic so...)

Thanks for any good advice.


texts: Hybrid electric bikes, how do they work?

texts:
I'm about to move further away from work, so my 5.5 mile commute is going up to 12 miles (24 there and back).

I'm not interested in using an elecrtic bike because I can't be bothered to pedal.. I want to use an electric bike to speed up my commute to work and back. I estimate that on my racing bike it'll take me approximately 45 mins to get to work.

If I got an electric bike, is it possible to use the motor to assist me rather than do all the work? If so, what sort of time saving do you think is possible? Do they offer much oomph?

I have my eye on one of the giant electric commuter bikes but I don't really know what to look for. I'm not sure yet if there's actually going to be any speed advantage hence I'm asking :)

Update: 3 years later, I never did buy an e-bike. I stuck with my road bike and just powered on through. I can now average 20mph if I feel that way inclined. I'm also the fittest I've ever been so I think all in all e-bikes aren't for the likes of me. I did however buy a new, faster road bike but the real speed comes from stronger legs/mind.

Update 2: I did get an ebike in the end! A cyclotricity 1000w stealth. It saves about 45 minutes as there's no need to have a shower at the end of the ride and it's faster. It's good!


texts: What are these cracks in the side of my bicycle tyre called? Does this mean that my tyre is gone?

texts:
I found out cracks in my bicycle tyre. I am not sure if the tyre is damaged. Following is a picture for reference
I would like to know what can be the possible causes for these cracks and how to avoid them.


texts: Should you hose down your bicycle after having used it on salty roads?

texts:
When using your bicycle on salty road, if you can opt for hosing it down or not hosing it down after a commute (without re-lubricating the drivetrain at this point!), what should you do? Do you cause more harm than good, by spraying water into the drivetrain and chain? I could see this removing oil, but I can also see it removing salty water. I don't know what is best.

I realize this would depend on the type of road, the type of bicycle, does it have fenders, or not? Hence, I'm looking for a rule of thumb answer. However, in my case, to make it specific I can state that this is a hybrid bike with fenders.


texts: Shimano Nexus 3 — what anti-rotation washer to use?

texts:
As I described in my previous question, I attempted a gradual conversion from a dérailleur to a Shimano Nexus 3 gear hub. I have installed the hub, keeping the dérailleur's pulley for now, with intention to remove it completely when I buy a new chain (this one is worn out anyway). However, I noticed when installed the wheel, the washer doesn't match my dropout, but I'm uncertain which one should I buy instead.

Here's how I have it now:


texts: It seems to be assumed you will not have any brakes on a fixed gear bike, why?


texts: Multiple double holed punctures on the rim side of tube

texts:
Got a new trainer tire, so I removed the regular tire and tube from the rear rim and replaced them with the special trainer tire and a thinner tube. When I plied the old deflated tube for storing, I noticed that it was leaking air. On inspection I've found 3 pairs of holes which are apparently on the inside of the tube, toward the rim. I inspected the rim tape and it looks fine. In the past I've had put some extra electrical tape on the rim and then the rim tape over it. They both look fine, the electrical tape is not damaged or cut where the spoke wells are. The rims are double walled. I inspected the rims, spoke wells, rim tape, the tire - can't find the cause of the punctures. They seem to align with the spoke wells, though. What makes it weird is that all three punctures are double, there's one cut and next to it there's another, not quite parallel. It looks something like this: / \ . Check the pics also. With the tube deflated one of the puncture has the cuts 8mm apart, other has the cuts 4mm apart and the last has the cuts 2mm apart. What baffles me is that the wheel was not losing air before I took it apart. It was inflated! Only after I removed the tube I've seen these holes which are big enough that I can't inflate the tube now with a hand pump.

What can cause this? It's got to be the rim, right? Somehow the rim tape slides about and exposes the spoke wells. But why it looks fine and why did it stayed inflated until taking it off?

Wheel 26", tire 57-559, tube 40/60-559.

Thank you!


texts: I recently painted an aluminum bike. I put the primer down, then the paint color, then a clear coat. I did all the sanding and everything that goes along with painting the bike. After letting it dry for appox a week after finishing the paint, I clamped it down on the bike stand. When I took the frame off the stand the clamp and dug into the paint. Anyone know why this is happening and how I can fix it so it doesn't continue to happen??


texts: Does every drink bottle fit into every holder?

texts:
I have a Specalized drink bottle holder and was always using normal 750ml plastic bottles, but they never fit very well. I was looking online for water bottles and now I'm wondering if all bottles that can be found online (e.g. on bikester.com) will fit into my holder or do I have to be careful with what I buy? Are there different sizes of bottles and holders or all they standardized?

Thank you in advance.


texts: I have a Light and Motion Vya Taillight which won't turn off when removed from mounting socket. I've wiped down the contacts. Is there anything else to try?


texts: a carbon rim cost only $169 is real carbon?

texts: Wanna upgrade my bike to carbon,and find this rim http://www.carbonbikeoem.com/bike-rims/mtb cost only $169,so is this a real carbon?and what is the general price of carbon rims?


texts: Is it possible to see distance to a waypoint, along the current course?

texts:
I have a course created on GPSies that has a couple of waypoints, in this case it's pit stops, along the course. When I transfer it to my Edge 1000 through the new files folder I correctly get both the course and the waypoints.

However, once I start to ride along the course I can never see how far it is to the waypoints. All I can see is where it is on the map, or if I wish, I can stop the course and instead navigate to the waypoint.

I can also see how far away the waypoint is if I list all saved waypoints (called locations on the Edge 1000) along a straight line.

I'm I missing anything? This should be a very common usecase for long rides with pit stops, like organised races where you can refill water.


texts: Garmin Edge Touring can't do car, walking, or straight-line routing directions?

texts:
I previously owned an Edge 605, and recently replaced it with an Edge Touring.  One key feature which I can't figure out on the Edge Touring is Car or Pedestrian routing.  On the 605 you could choose "Car/Motorcycle," "Cycling," or "Pedestrian" routing.   The Edge Touring however only seems to offer "Cycling," "Tour Cycling," or "Mountain Biking."

This is a serious issue for me because I use the device in mixed environments away from home, such as a trip where I do walking, cycling, and driving on a single trip.  Whereas the best road cycling directions on the Edge 605 were actually given by the Car mode with Highways disabled, I can't figure out how to get decent driving directions on the Edge Touring.  Is it even possible?  If it's not possible on the Edge Touring, what about on the Edge 800, 810, or 1000?  This information doesn't appear to be listed on Garmin's own site, nor can I discern it from the various product reviews online.

Similarly I miss the "Straight Line" style navigation from the Edge 605--sometimes there is no known route but you still want the distance-to-destination and direction pointing to work; I have also failed to figure out how to do this on the Edge Touring.

If it helps, I am using the City Navigator maps for Southeast Asia...the map data is all there, just the routing capabilities seem lacking on the Touring model.  I also used some OpenStreetMap files in Asia which worked OK but again the device only offers bicycle routing whereas the old models offered car routing with the same maps.


texts:
What should I look for when buying rollers?

What sets more expensive models apart from their cheaper alternatives?


texts: Is there 28 hole front/rear drum brake hub

texts: No time research this now, so has there ever been made a 28 hole front or rear drum brake hub? I know that Sachs and Sturmey-Archer have done a lot of drum brakes. Neither to my knowledge have such a hub in production currently. The reason for asking this is that I have 2010 version of Kona Band Wagon and I'd like to move to using drum brakes, but also retain the current rims that are 28 hole rims.


texts:
Here I am a Kiwi in the Netherlands with a little dutch bike project underway.

The internal of the steerer tube is 19.3mm (give or take) so I am unable to put a 1" - 1" 1/4 (32mm Handlebar diameter) stem adapter into the steerer tube.

I think my best bet is to find a stem to bolt on the 22mm (outside diameter) to 32mm handlebar. (Maybe a shim in needed.)

Any suggestions and help with companies or suppliers making this product would be much appreciated.

p.s Welder/Fabricator fitter turner by trade but living in a different company not working in my field very unfortunitly.

Steerer dimensions.

Inside diameter: 19mm
Outside diameter: 22mm
Handlebar dimension: 32mm
Part needed = 22mm-32mm stem.

Much appreciated guys.


texts: Is it best to attack the flat before a hill?

texts:
...or is the extra energy used to overcome the exponentially increased air resistance on the flat best saved for overcoming gravity on the hill, when the air resistance penalty is much lower? Does that outweigh the benefit of a bit more momentum going up the hill?
I guess the answer could differ depending whether you want to be fastest up the hill or use the least energy.
Edit - this could be for large or small hills, but the boundary case might be a hill where any momentum you built up has reduced to zero right as you go over the crest.


texts: Replacing bike frame on BMC Alpenchallenge AC01

texts:
I have a BMC Alpenchallenge AC01 IGH Alfine 8 Speed 2017 size small. Although the size is appropriate for me, I would prefer the medium, but the small was 47% off, so I bought it.

Now I have the chance of buying the medium size frame of the high end model. The frame is from the same year, but it came originally with Alfine 11 and comes with a carbon fork.

Do you guys think I can simply replace the frames without much hassle? I would guess I would only have to take the components from the small and mount them in the medium frame. I would really appreciate some opinions on this. Thank you very much.


texts: Road bike that is gentle on body, but can go in some dirt

texts:
I found out that a racing type road bike is hard to shift as hurts the arthritis in my fingers. And even the frame is harder on the hips. I need something more gentle, but fast enough to keep up with road riders.

I now ride a Trek Utopia on and off road and I do ride it hard. Can't keep up with road rider, but can fly on the dirt!


texts: How are the stages accumulated at the Tour de France?

texts:
Edit 1: Asking in one sentence only: If all cyclists start the last stage together, why is the winner of just the last stage declared the winner of the Tour?
Edit 2: Example: Joe and Mark are, hypothetically, the only two competitors in the TdF. Joe is fantastic; until the last stage he wins every single stage. Joe is a grimpeur and a puncheur; hence he wins the mountain classification. Joe is a baroudeur and a sprinteur; hence he lets Mark stay up front and still manages by sheer power to win every single stage—but the last. Mark is patient. On the eve of the last stage, Mark practices meditation. Joe and Mark start at the same time. Soon after Mark leaves Joe in the dust. Joe is exhausted, having neither the power nor the spirit to fight. Since Mark is a kilometer ahead of Joe, he sashays into le Boulevard des Champs-Elysées, even picking up a glass of champagne. Mark wins the last stage. Mark is the winner of the general classification. Mark is the winner of the TdF. But something is entirely unfair. Joe's cumulative advantage far exceeds that of Mark.
What is incorrect in this calculation for determining that Mark won the general classification and the TdF? Or is it the case that the one who finished the last stage first (Mark in this exammple) is in fact NOT the winner of the race?
End of Edit 2
More Detailed Question:
I am having trouble identifying the system used to determine the winner at the Tour de France. I never understood the accumulation, but until this year (2020) I never bothered.
All (170-200) cyclists start the first stage together, not from a static line, but rolling behind a car from which the "go" signal is issued. The second and third stages likewise this year started with all riders at the same time, also behind a car. Hence the winner of a stage would appear to be the winner of strictly that stage, not the cumulative winner, as I perceive some descriptions to suggest. Yet the winner of the entire course is the one who arrives first at the finish line in Paris (and there is by then such a gap that that finish is rarely contested; the winner just cruises through the last stretch). What am I missing?
Various Hypotheses:

Are the milliseconds and seconds added up, and the start of the last stage adjusted to give an advantage to each cyclist according to the sum of his performance on all preceding stages, hence making the arrival in Paris a true measure of the winner?
Are the various points issued used in some exotic way; if yes, how?
Is the order along the pack at the start of each stage adjusted to give some advantage to the winner of the preceding stage (or the cumulative sum until and including the preceding stage)? If yes, how do some teams ever manage to regroup?

How are the stages accumulated at the Tour de France, such that the one who arrives first at the last stage is indeed the winner of the full Tour?
Secondary related questions/notes:

I understand that each team has one star, and that the purpose of all team members is to assist that star to ride sometime in their slipstream, but I'm not clear on even that detail, since most often it is the star who's taking the head wind among his team. What's the point of having a team at all then?

I understand that historically the Tour de France has adjusted its formula—abandoning, for example, a point system because riders tended to cruise amicably and sprint only at the very end of each stage to contest that stage. I'm here asking about the calculation in modern times, or, if the formula is still changing, how the accumulation is done specifically in 2020.


texts: I an not talking about upgrading. How do you know when to buy new wheels because the other ones have worn out? How do you tell a wheel is worn out? I can always true a wheel back to true. And nothing is dented, but the maintenance is getting a little more than it should be.


texts: What is the difference between I.S., post, and flat mount disc brake mounting standards?

texts:
What is the difference between "I.S." (international standard),  "P.M." (post mount), and flat mount disc brake mounting standards?

Does one have a clear advantage over the other and is there a general trend towards standardization of one over the other?

Image source: https://xkcd.com/927/

And why do most people here spell it 'disc' rather than 'disk'. Is this an Americanism vs. British English?


texts:
I've been trying to identify this Bianchi track frame - any help would be appreciated! Closest I've come is Eco Pista from early 80s, but I'm absolutely no expert on the matter.

The numbers on the BB shell, as far as I can read are: H817 stamped on right, BG in centre, 56 575 stamped on left.

Dropouts are Campagnolo.

I resprayed frame from it's original terrible condition (was Bianchi green with Bianchi decals, not certain though if these were original or not), and put on drilled forks (forks I got with the frame were chrome and not drilled).


texts:
So, over the course of several months, I notice that my saddle has been creeping backwards on the seat post.
Road bike. Fizik seat post (two screws, one manual, one hex head.)  Ti rail saddle.
I tend to break seat rails. I think it is fatigue related. And I range between 200 and 200 lbs. ;)  I've used steel rails. Carbon rails seem like a bad idea. The current saddle has ti rails. I put the saddle forward because the break in the rails happens at the back, and I want to minimize flex. This is my current theory to stop breaking rails.
Anyway, I tighten the bolt plenty. I don't know how much, but I think that increasing the clamping force is not going to help, and I will eventually strip the bolt/nut.
Seems like more friction between the rails and clamp is what is needed. I don't know the proper way to do that. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mark


texts: Which brake pads for these old cantilever brakes?

texts:
I need to replace all the brake pads on these old Mafac cantilever brakes on my bike. I have currently a mix of the original style and a modern replacement. I went to a local bike shop and they gave me a modern equivalent of the original brake (pic below) but it doesn't fit because of the collar at the end of the stem. I could make them fit my adjusting the angle of the cantilever arm but I understood that they are supposed to be horizontal, as they are at the moment.
The modern ones I had on are worn down really unevenly, which I was wondering if this is poor adjustment or they just aren't compatible.
So before buying anything else, does anyone know if I could just replace all four pads with the modern ones (pic below).
Thank you!

UPDATE
I fitted the new brake pads to the rear brake today and they work fine (1st pic below). On the front they do not fit around the wheel (2nd pic). If there was no collar on the stem they would fit, and if I fit them with the collar past the holder they sit at an angle (3rd pic). Following all your advice I think I will loosen the cable first to see how far down the cantilever arms shift. If it is too far I will invest in a pair of very nice Kool Stop brakes. Thank you all!


texts: belt vs chain for what matters performance only

texts:
Let's set apart all pros/cons of chains vs belts, like: ease of maintenance, need of a custom frame, cost, spare part availability, all of that: nope.
This question is very focusing only on performance.

I read several reviews, one the most interesting being this one. They measure the performance of the two systems with this tool:

and they come out concluding that:

  a conventional chain drive consumes 2.92 watts on average, while the
  belt eats up 3.93 watts. Although the difference is just 1 watt – not
  enough for most people to care – this works out as a substantial 34.6
  percent.

But unfortunately, also:

  That data does have some caveats, though. While the chain drive was
  tensioned to a typical 2lb, Gates recommends a much higher preload
  tension of 85lb in order to prevent slippage under load.

So, overall it is to be expected that the old chain is going to be more efficient, according to that. But let's not forget that the belt drive system, though less efficient, is also way lighter!

This also affects performance.

In fact, to this article shows how "the entire belt drive system consisting of a belt and front and rear sprockets weighs nearly half of a standard chain", which is a massive improvement in weight.

So in short:
Would the weight gain compensate for the performance loss?


texts:
I'm using Hayes CX-5 Mechanical Disc brakes with Avid The G2 CleanSweep Rotors on my cross bike.  I believe the Pads that come stock with Hayes CX-5 brakes are semi-metallic.

I'm experiening uneven braking, it's really a pain to feather my braking to slow down because of this.  It seems that the brakes engage on parts of the rotor, but seems to slide more freely over other sections. I wind up over braking to slow because of this.  The rotors are a month or so old and do not appear to be visibly bent at all.

What is causing this?  How can I even out the performance of my braking?


texts: Wheel bust after 10 months, is this normal / usually covered by warranty?

texts:
Not sure if this is the right place to ask...

I bought new bike about 10 months ago. The past few weeks I've had no end of trouble with the rear wheel (Mavic Aksium) in regards to spokes.

About 4-5 spokes on the non-drive side consistently come loose. I tighten them, then after riding for about 15 meters I hear the "twang" as they work themselves loose. One of them snapped right off at the nipple, looks a bit brittle where the break was.

Questions:

Is this normal for a wheel to wear out so fast? I've done about
2500km on it.
I'm missing 1 spoke, and loose on about 4 now. Is the wheel ready for the bin, or is it worth fixing?
Is this something that is normally covered in bike manufacturer
warranties, or is it a case of "sorry mate, its just general wear"


texts: How deep does a quill stem need to be inserted?

texts: I have an old road bike with a quill stem and I want to raise the stem. After raising it to where I want it, the stem has about an inch between the high end of the expander nut and the top of the headset.  I looked for markings on the stem and didn't see any indicating how much should be inserted.  Is there a minimum amount that should be inserted into the headtube to ensure my safety?


texts: Is there anything similar to motorbike roadbook holders for bicycles?

texts:
Does anybody know if there may be in commerce anything similar to the roadbook holders they use on offroad motorbikes, but for use on bicycles?

I know there are some electronic versions in commerce that include a GPS system, but I was looking for a cheaper solution (possibly smaller than the one below).

Here's a sample:

An installed roadbook:


texts: What is the difference between Shimano 14-28T MF-TZ20 and Shimano MF-TZ500-6?

texts:
What is the difference between Shimano 14-28T MF-TZ20 and Shimano MF-TZ500-6 ?

 Shimano MF-TZ500-6, Shimano website

 Shimano 14-28T MF-TZ20, Ebay shop

Does it mean that "Shimano 14-28T MF-TZ20" (which doesn't appear on shimano website) is fake?


texts: I have a bike with Shimano Nexus 3 gear, and it's stuck on lowest gear. However, if I move shift pin that changes gears it changes the gears. So Nexus itself seems to be working, but the pin is not returning to correct position when going to higher gear. Is there a spring broken that should return the pin to correct position, and if so, how should I fix it? New spring? New wheel? Lot's of WD-40?


texts: My tire was flat and I could not fix it, so I had to carry the bike all the way. How could I have fixed it?


texts: Identify control on left-side of Sun Recumbent Trike model EZ3 handlebar

texts: I own the Trike model listed above, I bought this Trike about 10 years ago, and I'm starting riding again but since the manuals are not very users friendly, I need to know the purpose of the 3 position knob for on the left handle?


texts:
In broad terms, I'm wondering if it is possible to repair a high quality lugged carbon frame, say a Colnago C60, that has been cracked in the top and/or down-tube.

Normally once a carbon frame has a crack or chip it is considered unsafe to ride and it will usually get scrapped.  However, it seems like if one were to crack a lugged frame, it might be possible to take it apart and replace only the tube that has cracked.

Is this possible and if so what does the overall process look like?


texts: What make and model is this MTB with no decal (pictured)?

texts: My second hand MTB frame has no decal on it. To me it looks like a downhill frame. I was told it's an Orange but now that I look at it I don't know how to tell. The serial number is JSG0111.


texts:
Hello I have just brought a Shimano Tourney 7 speed derailleur for my carrera axel ltd 2015 but I was wondering if I have got the right one I'm not 100% sure. I have put the two links to each  bike and derailleur.  Will this derailleur work with this bike i have ordered this as a mounting bracket and not a direct mount was this a correct choice or should i have gotten a direct mount

Bike http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes/carrera-axle-limited-edition-mens-hybrid-bike

Derailleur https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-RD-A070-7-speed-Road-Rear-Derailleur_61116.htm


texts: Can I upgrade to SRAM GX Eagle from Shimano Acera 9 Speed?

texts:
Thinking about upgrading my gear set to SRAM GX Eagle 12-Speed Groupset 175mm from a Shimano Acera 9 Speed 40/30/22 MTB chainset

Would this be compatible?


texts: Is there any functional point of using alloy jockey wheels?

texts:
Jockey wheels seem like the most pointless thing to upgrade on a bike. I can see swapping out the usual grey ceramic jockey wheels for an anodized alloy one to match the look of the rest of the bike, but I can't see any possible performance related reason to do so.

Do they aid in shifting quality at all? I know that dura-ace and ultegra derailleurs use jockey wheels with bearings instead of bushings to improve durability, but they still use ceramics.

Is there any benefit of using the alloy jockey wheels?


texts:
I am going to replace my bent hub on my MTB. The hub is Novatec D042SB and the rim which I am going to order is Sun Ringle Inferno 25 29er. Since my hub is not so popular there are not any default dimensions available in online spoke calculator databases. I cannot take apart all the stuff on the wheel for precise measurements and that's why I have to ask for your help. I have used several calculators and all of them gave me different result ranging from 290mm to 294mm.

Here are the dimensions of my hub in Novatec's official website.

Flange to Flange 58.4mm

Flange Diameter 58mm

Over Locknut 135mm

Offset of centers 6.8 mm

Rim ERD 602 mm

If anyone has experience with building a wheel, please help me to determine the exact length of the spoke

Thanks in advance


texts: Please help identify my 1940's (?) Tandem Bicycle

texts:
Please help me identify this tandem bicycle. Here's what I know:

I'm pretty sure it's not a Schwinn, as all Schwinn bikes had straight frames without curves.
From what I can tell, Hawthorne used the same skip-tooth sprocket on Hawthorne bikes until the early 1950s.
It has lines like a Colton, but I can't find out if Colton made a tandem that front steer only.
The serial number has been painted over/obscured.
Seats not original.
It has fenders, not shown.

(Not for sale at the moment.)


texts: Why is it important to wipe excess lubricant off your chain?

texts:
This question about chain maintenance during touring raised this question.

This tip sounds unintuitive, of course, I know that the extra lube will attract dust (not good to chain) but I have paid for the lube. My biased view is that when I just ride fast enough it will just fall off because I use liquid Teflon lube but I don't want to limit this question only to Teflon lube.

Please, tell me should you really wipe extra lubricant from your chains?

How should you wipe it? Is piece of WC-paper enough?

What does the term to wipe really mean?

Do you wipe things similarly with all kind of lubes?

Please, note that there is a huge variety of lubes, more here.


texts: What would be a good style of bike for Big Guys

texts:
I am in need of help on purchasing a bike for a Big Guy. I am 6 foot and 365 pounds (that's 183 centimetres and 166 kilograms). I am trying to better my health and want to get more active by riding a bike. Because I am a big guy I am not sure what brand, style or size to get. When I am shopping around there are so many that look like I would just break.

I keep reading Fat Tire is a way to go but I want to be sure and get others opinions.

Does anyone out there have any recommendations that will not break the bank? Any help is very much appreciated.


texts:
I heard merino is for cool-cold days. Maybe I heard it wrong.
Then I thought people use it for baselayer (something you wear under your jackets).
But it seems it's not the case based on some reviews/images I see.
So What's the point of wearing merino shirt itself?
Do people wear them in hot days as well?


texts:
Please do not confuse this with general weight on your bike or rotating weight. I'm onto about something completely different.

Logic tells me that everytime you do a pedal stroke you need to lift your foot along with most of the legs weight on the upstroke. The heavier your foot and shoe, the more energy you need to expend to lift it. On the other hand, a heavier foot and shoe will create more force on the downstroke.

Assuming you were on a home trainer with 10kg weights attached to each of your feet how would it effect your power output and pedalling style?

What if you ride out of the saddle? High cadence vs. low cadence?


texts: what will happen if I change gears on a mountain bike at a standstill? Will it break?

texts: My boyfriend just bought a brand new bike and was trying to teach me to ride it, and (I, being a complete noob) when I was standing with it I messed with the gears using the handle at a standstill. Changed the rear one from 3 to 1. He then started riding it and the the plastic part that helps it shift (I think) broke. You could hear a sudden crunching when he started riding it and the whole back part just snapped and broke. I assume it was that I just moved that, but was it? And why?


texts: How do I determine what kind of replacement shifters I need?

texts: I need shifters for a 16 speed bicycle. When shifters are advertised as 2x8 is this referring to a bicycle with 2 sprockets in the front and 8 in the back?


texts: Upgrading crankset on mountain bike - what are my options

texts:
I have a cheap old rockrider 5.0 mountain bike  also known under the btwin brand. Bit by bit I'm trying to improve it's performance as a road commuter bike. So far I've changed the rear wheel to a cassette type and upgraded the cassette from 14-something T to an 11-28T and changed tyres from 2" semi-slicks to 1.5" slicks. This much improved it as a road bike but after 2000+ miles since the upgrade I'm noticing I often max the speed out on flats and would like a bit more gearing. 11T is pretty much the best I can do on the rear cassette so I'm considering upgrading the crankset from a 42T to a 48T or bigger if I can.

My current rear cassette is a Shimano Acera 7 Speed 11/28T Cassette  CS-HG41-7.
My chain is a KMC Z51.
The front derailleur is a  Shimano TZ30.

I'm aware that the front derailleur will possibly need to be adjustable to get the chain over the larger 48T chain ring. And possibly the chain may need to be lengthened.

The crankset I have in mind is Shimano Alloy / Steel Triple Chainset FCM131 28 /38 /48 teeth ratio suitable for 5, 6, 7, or 8 speed.Is this likely to work ? Can I go bigger? And what compatability considerations do I need to take into account in this upgrade?

It's my first time upgrading a crankset so any advice would be much appreciated.


texts:
I have heard that one ought to turn the pedals at 90rpm. However, I do so much slower, especially while standing, and would like to understand the argument behind this number (or any other number). So:

What is the optimal cadence of a cyclist. Why? Does it depend on the terrain? Does it depend if the rider is sitting or standing upright? What are some possible consequences of deviating too much from the proposed number?

Possible duplicate of "What Cadence Should I Aim For", but I didn't find there the "whys" except for "it will grind your knees." However, I find riding upright with slow cadance no more demanding than walking up a hill with a backpack.


texts: Why is Giant's older Roam 1 more expensive than the newer Roam 2 and 3?

texts:
I'm pretty new to biking and I have been looking at Giant's Roam line of bicycles, and noticed that the Roam 1 is more expensive than the Roam 2 and the Roam 2 is more expensive than the Roam 3.

Even the 2016 version of the Roam 2 is more expensive than the 2017 version of the Roam 2.

My question is why? Are they coasting off the name of a formerly-good bike and slowly decreasing the quality to lift profit margin? Or have they come up with better manufacturing methods and need less non-recurring engineering and advertising expense to be successful with the next version?

Long and short of it is I have a friend who swears by the Roam line. I want to get the newest, but don't want to buy a lemon.


texts: Shimano 105 5800 front derailleur installation

texts:
I am currently installing a front derailleur as part of a new bike build.

It attaches to the frame via a braze on mount. I can't get it to shift onto the big ring. It shifts onto the big ring only when I'm on the smallest cog in the rear cassette.

Appreciate any help!


texts: inner tube width range relative to tire width: reliability effects?

texts:
[Apologies if this seems like a dup: I see there are lotsa tire+tube questions, but this one does seem to be slightly different, in that it strives for generality and concerns choice between alternatives.]

question

Suppose one is buying tubes for a given {rim, tire} tuple. Assume the following data/constraints:

The tire fits the rim's bead seat diameter (BSD) appropriately and has tire width w1.
Tubes ta and tb match the rim/tire BSD and are identical in all meaningful1 respects except width: identical cost, material, thickness, valve, etc.
ta specifies a width range w0-w1 (with w0 < w1)
tb specifies a width range w1-w2 (with w1 < w2)
One is a competent tube changer with lots practice.
One's primary concern is tube reliability over time: i.e., one very much wants to have fewer flats.

Given the above,

Are there empirically-valid reasons to choose ta (i.e., the tube for which the tire width is at the high end of the tube's width range) over tb (i.e., the tube for which the tire width is at the low end of the tube's width range), or  tb over ta? Or is there no reason to prefer one over the other?
Are there other data/constraints which are significant for the decision? E.g., whether one typically runs at high or low tire pressure?

motivation

I drive recumbents with 20-in/406-mm front wheels, currently running unbelted 20x1.35 Primo Comets. (FWIW

tire make/model is irrelevant for the rest of this question, so feel free to ignore.
I don't drive a trike: I have 2 nearly-identical SWBs with swappably-identical wheels. I like to have spares :-)

) I bike for transportation, so reliability is very important to me. Unfortunately

I recently moved to an area with much more puncturing road debris.
The area is also less dense, causing longer mean trip distance which exposes me to more debris.
Recent flats have now consumed my stock of 20x1.35 tubes. FWIW, I replace tubes rather than patching them (assume that preference as given :-), and I like to keep a few spare tubes (as well as ... everything else).

Fortunately there are some 20x1.5 Kevlar-belted Comets locally available at a decent price, which I intend to try. However the 406-mm tubes I'm seeing (and on which I now need to stock up) are either 20x1.25-1.5 or 20x1.5-1.75. Which raises the more general question.

possible answer

I bought the 20x1.5-1.75 for the Primo belted Comets. After 3 months: no problems installing, no flats, hold air well (i.e., takes a long time to go from 90 psi to 80 psi). Granted, this is not much of a test: n=1, not enough time for testing, change of tires is a confounding variable. But WTH.

1 Assuming both tubes have the same material and thickness, the wider tube will be heavier, but consider the mass difference negligible. (In this specific case, the mass difference=26 g, which is negligible for me.)


texts:
I recently bought my first pair of padded bibs. I was riding 15+ miles on average, so when i got them they seemed like a plush different experience. Now, a couple months later, they feel a little cramped up and tight in the crotch region. I'm not sure if they shrank, or if I'm just now noticing that they are the wrong size. Bibs aren't supposed to be super tight in the crotch area, right? It's to the point where I'm uncomfortable on the ride, and feel the need to reposition my boys.
I feel kinda lost; i went through the trouble of measuring myself according to the company's specs and thought i did a good job.
Any info helps, thanks.


texts: What to buy for replacing missing fork top cap?

texts: The bike I own is a pretty old Nishiki 351 Hybrid bike, so any branded spare parts are pretty hard to find. Now I have this issue of missing a top cap from the fork (see image). What kind of cap should I buy for it? Is it bad if water gets inside for example if bike is left out in the rain?


texts: How do I compare seemingly equal wheelsets?

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I'm trying understand how to compare wheelsets which in many cases seem virtually identical but based on their prices I gather are significantly different.

Here are two pairs of wheels as an example to demonstrate the question:

HED Eroica GP Disc $810

Weight: 1,640g
Rim Depth: 24.5mm
External Rim Width: 30mm
Internal Rim Width: 25mm
Tubeless Compatible: Y
Hub: HED Aluminum, 4-pawl
Construction: Hand-built

Specialized Axis Elite Disc $250

Weight: 1,625g
Rim Depth: 23mm
External Rim Width: 26mm
Internal Rim Width: 21mm
Tubeless Compatible: Y
Hub: Axis Disc SCS, 3-pawl
Construction: Machine-built

The things that stick out to me are the rim width's vary a bit and the construction technique.  If I'm planning to use a tire that I believe would work well with either rim (38c), is there any advantage to the HED wheelset priced at over 3x the cost?


texts: Hi i really need urgent help. I am going to buy a new MTB fork. It's straight steerer tube and threadless. I checked my tires but I have no idea what their size is. It's written 26 × 1.79 and TP 27. There are also lots of option on the website where I am buying the fork from 26er, 27.5er, 29er and 27.5er remote and 29er remote tapered.


texts: What size is the upper bearing on a 2013 Trek Speed Concept 7.0?

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I'm looking to replace the upper head bearing in my 2013 Trek Speed Concept 7.0 but cannot find the item online. Any ideas of a FSA/Canecreek bearing to replace it?

Just to clarify, the diagram below shows the 2014 service manual that depicts an upper head bearing of W276442. I don't know if that's the same for the 2013.


texts: What is the correct kind of hitch receiver that works with my bike rack?

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I have recently placed an order for this bike rack and if you scroll down to the Features section you will see it says it requires the following type of hitch receiver:
Hitch Size: 2” only (Do not use a 1.25”-2” hitch adapter)

From UHaul's list of available hitch receivers here: https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitch-Receivers/
which one should I get that will work with the bike rack I placed an order for?


texts: Helmet strap loosens as I ride then the day after becomes too tight

texts: Well, the title sums it up. It's a cheap (~50 EUR) KTM helmet. This is reproducible, is happens on every ride: if I adjust it to fit well at the beginning of the ride, it's loose after a while. If I tighten it during the ride then it is way too tight at the start of the next ride.