texts: Preparing for long term storage (2 years)

texts:
I have two bicycles - one is an alloy MTB and the other is an old steel frame roadie. I intend to box them and keep them in my parent's garage for the next ~2 years while I will be overseas for work. Selling is not an option (for emotional and real value). I plan to box both bikes as they come from the manufacturer:

pedals, handlebar, chain and seat off
Rear derailer removed, wrapped in bubble-wrap and tied to the frame
Current tires will be sold off and an old useless pair installed with old tubes nicely coated with talc to keep them from becoming sticky.
Healthy doses of lube on the cables
Plastic wrapping on the MTB brake discs, spacers in the calipers.
Box taped down with lots of duct tape.

Storage tempeatures will be from 5C to 45C during the year, and humidity will be low-moderate most of the year. Is the above scheme adequate? Anything else I should look out for?
Update: Thanks for all the pointers. One point I forgot to mention is that the bikes need to be shipped from my current residence to my parents first. The overkill packing is intended to ensure that they survive the transport and also the boxes can just be stowed till I get back, requiring no attention.
Update2: 4 years later
Due to multiple reasons, latest being the Coronavirus pandemic, the bikes have stayed boxed for 4 years almost to the day. I'll be getting them soon and will update this thread soon.


texts: Re-learning how to corner aggressively at speed after bad experiences

texts:
I'm not quite sure if this should somehow be broken up into two questions, but what can one do to take sharp corners at speed effectively, especially when you're nervous after having bad experiences riding?
I'm already familiar with common techniques for high-speed cornering on a theoretical level (cf. a video from the Global Cycling Network), but I was never really good at taking corners hard. Now, however, after being in an accident with a car and afterwards having only ridden a lot in miserable conditions (snow, ice, sand/gravel on the road because of the snow, etc.), I realize that I simply don't do sharp turns... and trying to force myself to do it makes me extremely nervous.
Possible aggravating factors

Ill-suited bike: Perhaps it's the one rideable bike I've currently got? — it's a lot lighter and "tighter" than my previous training bike, which makes it seem fun to ride, but it just feels squirrely... yet that could simply be me not used to it.
Interference from similar sports: Between the accident and the winter, I was on a motorbike quite a lot, and I feel much more confident on it than I do on a bicycle despite going over twice as fast. However, the thing weighs 220kg as opposed to maybe 13kg, and you hug a motorbike in a way you don't/can't on a pushbike. Also, when cornering on a motorbike, it's completely normal to use the rear brake to control your speed; I find I'm instinctively trying to do this on a pushbike but it just makes me feel weird, and I don't even know if you can do this safely on a bike, anyway

Are there no "baby steps" I can try to do in order to get myself to corner properly and aggressively and yet to trust myself/my bike at the same time?


texts:
All of a sudden, I desperately need those, but I'm failing to find it on ebay or anywhere else. Maybe I call them wrong? Do they have a specific title or something?

Thanks for help guys, you're the best!

UPDATE: The frame is made of steel not carbon (as shown on the image below). It's a simple steel frame that has holes for internal cable routing.


texts:
Thinking to get a Montague bike for mountain biking. The reason for a folder is easy storage and transportation. And reviews I read all say good things about their bikes.
There are these models available:

http://www.montaguebikes.com/compare-mountain-folding-bikes.html

I have almost 0 knowledge on MTB, but based on my experience with other bikes, these frames are probably the same, only different components (except x50, which uses v brake so the frame/fork maybe different). So I am thinking to get the second least expensive paratrooper then buy a good fork later when needed. So what kind of fork can I put on this bike? Please let me know the points to consider (e.g travel, wheel size, etc etc remember I have almost 0 knowledge). I will be using this bike on off road, trails, etc but nothing too rough(jumping etc) in my mind. Or is the stock fork (SR Suntour. Suspension XCT V4. 80mm travel) already enough for my need?

BTW, I want to get a decent enough fork so I won't upgrade soon after that (at least I hope LoL). So the fork can be a little more than my needs.


texts:
i'm considering a machine build based on MTB hydraulic lever brake and I would like to know if the lever, pushed by hand, will handle 13 bars /190 PSI ?
I'm really new to this kind of measurement.


texts: Bike pedal came off hinge?? Sunny SF-B1709

texts:
Any help please.
My right pedal came off after a bike ride and there were tiny globes of metal leaking out (Mercury??). The metal has stopped leaking, but wont fit on. Pictures enclosed
This is a Sunny belt Drive magnetic indoor cycling bike SF-B1709.


texts: Can a 10-speed chain be used with a 9-speed cassette?

texts: I have an extra 10-speed chain I would like to use with a 9-speed cassette on my mountain bike. Will this combination work ok?


texts: MTB crankset change, large ring from 42 to 48 teeth

texts:
I have changed my front crank set from 42 to a 48 tooth ring. I am having difficulty setting up the front mech. The problem I am having is that the (don't know the name) tail? the box frame bit at the back of the mech is painfully close to the large cog.
Whilst this is working I have no faith in in it remaining in place, if is does slip the results could be nasty.
So in performing this change is there a specific front mech change that I also need to perform?


texts:
Reading this article at park tool, it looks to be lacking some information, and here are my questions (some of them maybe pretty silly):

Why the bike should be "with the wheels level as the bike would appear on flat ground"?
Why in position C I should replace gauge?
Should I re-bend it with the same tool? How actually I re-bend the hanger?


texts:
I cycle to work three times a week over a distance of 13 miles in both directions. I do approximately 20mph most of the way there and back and I am looking for ways to speed up the commute.

Having read around the material online, it seems a decent set of wheels give the best performance increase per pound spent.

So the question is what wheelset should I invest in?

You can get models that claim to be Aero that range from a hundred pounds up to the low thousands. What would you recommend for a commuter?

A related but more searching question: would I even notice the difference at my level of performance?


texts: How can I get a snapped gear cable out of my Shimano brifter?

texts: Shimano's brifters that route the cables under the bar tape make the gear cable turn through a tight corner to get into that routing. This seems to weaken the cables and, if they're not replaced in time, they invariably snap there, leaving a frayed stub of cable stuck in the shifter mechanism. How on Earth do you get it out?


texts:
It's the first time I build a wheel (3 cross) and I would like to use these components:

DT Swiss H522 29" rim 36H
DT Swiss Hybrid 350 Hub 36H
DT Swiss Champion 2.0/1.8 J spokes

When I insert the spokes they go in easily, but when they reach the end of the "J" part, they get almost stuck (they can be moved by hand, but they stay in place instead of falling). I laced them anyways and the spokes are quite bent.
Should I choose a type of spoke with a longer "J" part?


texts: Massive loss of pressure in my front tire but it still holds air

texts:
Last night I was riding into a parking garage with a steep decline before the entrance. I hit the bottom of the ramp hard and lost most of the tire pressure in my front tire in a split second. I thought it was a pinch flat or blowout right away so I walked it over to a local bike shop where they had a air hose and was able to air up the tire which held the air and is still inflated to the proper pressure this morning. Does anyone know what may have caused the air loss and subsequent flat?

It is a road bike with racing tires and presta valves. I also check the pressure and fill the tires every couple of days so it wasn't flat already.


texts:
I have a new and calibrated torque wrench that is for 2-15NM. When I'm tightening a bolt it doesn't seem to click even at 2NM no matter how hard I turn.

I tried using it against a same size hex key as the bolt by holding the hex key firmly and then it seems to click at fairly light pressure, but not when I'm actually tightening the bolt. What could be wrong?


texts: mountain bike switching tyres I get a puncture, why, am i doing something wrong?

texts:
I have a mountain bike with 2 sets of tyres, a road set and off road set, when I switch between them about 1 in 3 times I seem to get a puncture, and I can't see why?  I've gone though 4 innertubes now doing this.

So I'll inflate the tyre, cycle around for 30-40mins then I'll notice something wrong, and it's almost flat?

Am I doing something wrong?  I deflate the tyre, flick off the tyer and innertube (using a plastic thingy from Evans, so no sharp bits there), put the innertube inside the other tyer, put both back on the wheel and inflate.

Any help would be appreciated, if I don't reply right away I'm probably walking down the cycle shop buying another innertube. :-)


texts:
A little while ago my son's bike had a wobbly rear wheel. I tightened up some spokes which improved the problem but didn't remove it. Eventually I took it into my LBS who immediately diagnosed a problem with the bearings.

My question is whether a wobble caused by loose spokes looks different from a wobble due to a problem with bearings.

Thanks

Chris


texts: Comparing gear ratios on different bike types

texts: How can I compare gear ratios on different wheel sizes? How can I compare gear ratios on MTB with tracking bikes with bigger wheels? How can I compare gear ratios with gear hubs?


texts:
I've been riding my MTB tubeless for the past year without any issue, but for the past couple of days I've noticed that the tire deflates heavily once on a ride. I can't give you exact measurements, but I ride with 2 bars when I leave home and when I'm back home it's probably around 1 bar. It's so bad that I feel the tire 'swimming' when I corner/jump.
I've readded tubeless fluid and tightened the valve nut (I noticed some fluid leaking there), to no avail. I didn't notice any damage on the wheel or the outside of the tire.
What could be the reason that a tire becomes leaky over time? The tire is quite old (~2 years) and also not tubeless-ready (it's a Nobby Nic), but I never had issues with it for the many months I ran it tubeless. Could it be that the tire is just 'too old'?


texts:
I'm trying road bikes for the first time, and I'm rather unfamiliar with tires and how things are intercompatible.
I'm thinking of getting a cheap Merax 608XC, and plan on taking it on trails such as the C&O Canal towpath. I've heard of cyclocross and touring bikes, but simply don't have the budget to afford any. I'm currently planning to get the merax and swap out the tires, but I don't really know if switching out the 700x23c tire for a 700x28c with knobs is possible?


texts:
(Before I ask my question, please note that I am aware that "shopping questions" are not appropriate here. I'm trying to determine if a product exist, and if not, why, not to get a particular product recommended.)

tl:dr:
We are looking for a child-seat without foot rest and with 3- or 5-point harness.
Oddly enough, that does not seem to exist?

We have a Kona UTE 2104, with a Polisport Bilby seat on the back (fixed directly in the rear deck).
We are looking  to add a second seat, also fixed in the deck.

Ideally, we would like the seat to:

be a good fit for a 7 y.o., ~45 lbs (~20 kgs),
have a 3-point fixation (shoulder + between legs, i.e. a 3 or 5 point harness),
not have foot rest.

The reason why we'd like not to have foot rest is to be able to keep using the large frame bags on both sides of the bike:


texts: Help with pairing the right headset to a new 3T fork

texts: I recently purchased an Aventon Mataro (http://aventonbikes.com/track/) frame and a 3T Funda Pro with tapered fork (1 1/4' - 1 1/8' 1.25 ). I've been trying to figure out which headset I need to fit the fork to my frame. I am still fairly new, and looking at Cane Creek's page of all the headsets is confusing me even more. Can someone point me in the right direction or tell me what I need to look for in the specs?


texts: This is a mystery frame that I got and built with a lot of spare parts I had. Can someone help we identify it? Also the rims are 700c.


texts: How to avoid running over animals whilst cycling on a canal at night?

texts:
I commute on a towpath in Hertfordshire, England and there is ample amount of wildlife about.

During the day it's fine, I can see ducks, squirrels and rabbits in time and slow down if I need to.

However at night it seems to be a problem as I occasionally have close calls with particularly what I believe are squirrels and rabbits trying to cross the towpath as I'm approaching.

I believe they see me rather too late sometimes and despite my front lights and intermittent signalling with the bell I've not been able to mitigate that. It goes without saying that I see them especially late. Particularly problematic are blind sports just before a turn. It doesn't help that often there are no other light sources apart from my lights.

Has anyone run into a similar problem and has any tips?


texts: Harsh Winters bike - Steel vs aluminum frame?

texts:
I am looking to a buy a single speed commuter bike which I can also use through the harsh winters here. I have narrowed it down to two bikes -
One has a 6061 Aluminium frame while the other has a hi-ten steel frame.

So my question is, given that I will use the bike through winter and have to park it outside in heavy snow with all the salt and grime on it (for about 5-6 months), is having a steel frame bike a bad idea or is it not a big issue?

Specifically this question is about Sweden, where temperatures range -5 degrees C up to 23 degrees C  (23F to 74F) in Stockholm, but further north the temperature has been recorded below -42 degrees C (-52 degrees F) (from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_extreme_temperatures_in_Sweden)


texts:
Is it practical (or is there any reason not to) upgrade components on a bicycle when they are replaced?  For instance, I've got a 10 speed cassette on a tour bike that needs to be replaced.  The bike is mostly Tiagra components, but is there any reason (other than cost, but in this case it seems like it's only about a $35 difference) to not upgrade to 105 or Ultegra?  (Staying within the same 10 speed part.) Are there certain components that have to be replaced as a set if I upgrade?

I have looked at this compatibility chart, and if I understand it, it is saying that an Ultegra ST-6700 is a drop-in replacement for a Tiagra ST-4600.  But I'm not sure if that is everything I have to look at, can I just do a drop in replacement of any component in any box?

I'm also concerned about whether there could be other issues with mis-matched components, for instance will a better component in one place lose some of its benefits or be degraded by a lower grade component that it interacts with?


texts: Where is my Record Luxus Racer bicycle from?

texts:
I just bought a bicycle on a classified ads platform in France. I don't know anything about the brand and I couldn't find much information yet.

It is a Record Luxus Racer, as shown on the pictures below.

I have seen other people selling bikes of the same model, in various colors and in both men's and women's versions.
Most of the pictures were found on classified ad sites from: Germany, Poland, Romania and Hungary.

However, the ads were outdated and had been removed so I couldn't get information there. Some ads were still up, but the sellers mention they don't have information about the bike's history.

The person I bought my bike from didn't know anything about it either.

My questions are:

Which country is this bicycle from?
Does this brand still exist?
Where could I find more information about my Record Luxus Racer?

Please let me know if more pictures or information could be useful.

** the pictures aren't of my bike, but of a similar one from the Internet

EDIT:

Full picture of my bike.

Record branding on the steerer tube

Marathon Schwalbe Spezial tires (Germany)

EDIT 2:
More information following some comments

Valves: currently Schrader

Front wheel rim:

SCHURMANN - Made in W. Germany - Typ 112 steel - DIN ETRTO - 27 x 11 - 630 x 18 - 088

Back wheel rim:

VAN SCHOTHORST - 18 x 630 (27 x 1 174) - ?5 91 - Made in Holland

Dynamo:
DANSI TYP:FG8 - K10861 - 6W 3V

Stand:
OLONA

Pedals:
UNION K10490 - W. GERMANY

Rear derailleur
1 x 5 - SHIMANO Tourney


texts: What is the equivalent for Shimano Roller Brake grease?

texts:
I'd like to regrease my roller brakes, because it started to squeak. There is dedicated Shimano Roller Brake grease available, but I'm curious what kind of grease it is really like, what it is made from and if there is any good equivalend, substitute or something with similar composition for general usage.
I know that this grease is supposed to be high-temperature-resistant and that's the main requirement, but has it another characteristics, that has to be taken into account?


texts: Is there a distinct look for contaminated disc brake pads?

texts:
I have sintered pads and I'm trying as best as I can to diagnose a braking issue. I have Shimano XT M8000 callipers and the rear brake is being something of a pain.

If I leave the bike for about 4 days I lose almost all braking power. As I try and figure this out it would be good to know if there's anything distinct I can see or do to figure out whether ultimately the pads have been compromised.

This brake system uses mineral oil so I'd be looking for tell-tale signs of that or other lubricants. Is road grime a possibility too I wonder?

This issue is driving me crazy and I'm trying to find out if there are any leaks in the system through various methods.

Edit
My issue seems to be akin to the one discussed on this thread. http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/xt-xtr-brakes-get-squeal-power-loss-after-sitting-idle-6-8-weeks-902792.html

My bike loses braking effectiveness when it sits idle. Quite an odd thing as I'd expect little to no pressure in the system to cause much leaking and surely something should be visible if it is leaking.

Edit 2 to document some fix attempts and diagnosis lines I've been down.

Firstly I manage to get power back by cleaning the pads with IPA and heating them with a gas flame as is mentioned in the comments below.

I've had the bike in the work stand and had a good look for any bubbles around the pots both with a brake bleed block in and with nothing (even pads) in. Bone dry.

I've wiped inside the calliper to see if anywhere is still damp to no avail.

I've visually checked the crimping around the hose and the banjo bolt but there's nothing that indicates build up from sticking to moisture.

Until today I was testing this with just one set of pads. Now there's a chance that my fixes are only good as a temporary measure whilst the bike is being used daily. After sitting maybe some of the contaminants are coming to the surface again. It could also be a build-up of silt from the ride along the canal towpath but I would have expected that to affect me overnight too and not after 3-4 days.

I took the pads out and let them dry for the whole work day one day this week and wiped them with a dry tissue and this did nothing to fix the symptoms.

I changed the rotors front and back although this only affects the rear brake.

I video'd the pots moving with no pads in just in case I could see something when Ina big screen. Not found anything so far. Might need to try it again with a bleed block in for resistance.

I'll add more if I think of anything else I've done.


texts: This puncture is on the inside face of the tube. One day I got a big piece of glass in my tire. I patched it up and then I got a puncture on the inside face of the tube. I patched that and then I got another puncture on the inside within a few blocks. I patched that and then I got a third puncture on the inside within another few blocks. The punctures are not in the same place so I'm pretty sure the rim is not the issue. Do I have a piece of glass inside the tube, rolling around and puncturing in random places? Why are the holes only on the inside face of the tube? Will any new tube fall to the same fate?


texts: How do I tell if a loose chain is because of the chain or the ring wearing?

texts:
My chain looks as though it's 'stretched' - by the time it's fed around the large front chainring it appears to be 'longer' than when on the other chainrings.

Therefore I'm trying to work out whether the chain/links have stretched, or whether the teeth on the chainrings have worn.

How could I tell which I need to address?


texts: For Biking do Sneakers offer any advantage over Sandals?

texts:
I live in a tropical country. We have only two seasons. A rainy season that lasts for 4 months and a summer lasting the remaining 8 months.

The maximum and minimum temperatures are 36 and 20 degrees Celsius respectively.

I ride my hybrid cycle almost every day for exercise.

The sneakers get wet during the rainy season and the feet get too warm during summer.

Therefore, I find it comfortable and convenient to wear waterproof sports sandals with back straps when riding my bike.

My question is do sneakers (sports shoes) offer any special advantages when biking over sandals?

Thank you for your advice.


texts:
I am a woman and I have been wanting to get into cycling.

A few summers back I bought a gravel bike. I bought it new from a local bike shop that I trusted. The bike was considered a 'medium' (5'6-5'9 ft). I am 5'4 and because I am still fairly new at this I thought the size wouldn't be a big deal. Plus, everything seemed to fit me fine and comfortable when I rode it around in the parking lot.

The thing I have noticed though is the top of the handlebars and the saddle are the same height, which is different than what I have seen, where the saddle is higher than the bars. I have had my seat height adjusted by a advanced road biker.

Once I took it home and began using it, I realised I couldn't go a mile without my rump being sore and numb. So I got a few quality pairs of distance cycling shorts. I also angled my seat down slightly. Once that wasn't enough I purchased chamois cream. Then I purchased a new bike seat for a very pretty penny. After all of these changes, I still only have comfort for about 15 miles and then I go completely numb in places I think we all would prefer to have feeling.

Last summer I sort of sucked-up the pain and kept biking almost every day, 20-25 miles. Now, I want to start biking even more but am finding that I am losing the joy in biking because I am always in pain or completely numb when biking.

Does anyone have any more tips for me? I have seen that getting a bike and saddle fitted can be pricey so I have been holding off on getting professionally fitted, and am wondering if it all may be because my bike is just a size too big for me. What do you think?


texts: Looking to replace my brake cables/outers on my CX bikes (105 brifters and TRP Spyres brakes). Both outers (front and rear) run the full length (shifter to brake) on my CAADX so there’s a lot of outer there (i.e. lots of potential for compression). Looks like I can get a decent price on some Jagwire KEB (road pro) cables/outers, but also heard that it’s hard to beat Shimano DA cables (and I can get those for even cheaper). Haven’t seen much about Shimano cables for disc brakes online but it seems like a good cable is a good cable. Has anyone tried/compared both? Any thoughts?


texts:
I have been an cycle enthusiast from my school days and I got a merida scultra 901 road bike recently.
However I am facing difficulties while I go over 60-70kms in a single go. Though i complete a 130km ride I end up getting a bad headache, neck pain and muscle cramps in my calf(when I rotate at high cadence).

In order to counter attack the neck pain, I did get a 60mm stem but the issue though mitigated has not resolved.

I'm 175 cms in height and I own a 52 cm frame size. I ride about 40 kms on my hybrid everyday without any problems.

Any info/guide for the above problems would be greatly helpful.
Thank you.


texts: Derailleur Hanger replacement for GTS R5 road bike frame

texts:
I'm looking for an online site where I can buy a derailleur hanger replacement for my GTS R5 road frame.
The frame is the one in the picture (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_0EL4iQdWrYE/TDLCN-kYeQI/AAAAAAAAAQI/JmNVEhIR5n0/s320/gts+r5.JPG)

I bought a derailer hanger (dropout 6) from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-Dropout-6-Derailleur-Hanger/dp/B0028N1SDA

but it's not the correct size/form.

I google for "GTS R5" and some other alternatives but I can't find a reliable place where they sell this Derailleur Hanger replacements.

Any help would be appreciated.


texts:
My weight is 240 pounds (109 kilograms).

I bought a miele velo gr1 they said it will hold my weight but wheels only have 32 spokes.  Are they right?


texts: Does it harm if my bike to leave it in a workstand for 2 weeks?

texts: If my Process 153 hangs like this in a workstand for two weeks does it cause any kind of harm?


texts: Quando Brake Pads - Anyone know where I can get a pair

texts:
I have just bought a second hand Diamond Back Sorrento mountain bike, the bike is about 5 - 6yrs old apparently and needs some minor maintenance.

The brakes are absolutely shot and I need to replace the brake pads front and back but I can't find the correct pads, they are Quando mechanical cable disc brakes. They seem pretty budget and I have never heard of the brand of brakes before and can't find any information online about them.

See images below, they are 23mm diameter and fit flush into the caliper which is also 23mm diameter. They are held in place magnectically... Anyone got any idea where I could get similar pads that are the correct size. I really don't want to have to buy new calipers just because I can't find the correct size pads... HELP!

You can see images here - http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2198561/1/brake-pads?h=f86002


texts:
Bought a new bike and rode it for a week. Unfortunately the spokes loosend until it was unrideable. No idea how this came about but it looks like I need someone to rebuilt the wheel.

Does anyone know of a good wheel builder in East London or London in general? I need a wheel rebuilt and I thought I might just go with the best guy for the job!

edit: this is a Dutchie Dapper 3-Speed I bought four months old from someone who couldn't handle the size of the bike.


texts: What kind of pedal do I have and what shoes do I need to buy?

texts: Based on my limited research, I think these are SPD-SL clips? But I really just want to know what shoes I can get that will clip into these. I don't ride my bike a ton, so I just want your normal, run-of-the-mill shoes for these pedals.


texts: Upgrade Specialized Tarmac Pro SL3 with SRAM Force AXS

texts: Is it possible to upgrade Specialized Tarmac Pro SL3 with the new SRAM Force AXS group set?


texts: Bike with coaster brake and gears for teenager with disabilities

texts:
I have a 13 year old with a form of muscular dystrophy.  He's well physically, though not as strong as most kids, and can ride a bike.
We got him a cruiser bike, which I then modified to make appropriate for a young man, a couple of years ago and he does well on it.  However, it only has one gear and I have to push him up hills (and we live at the bottom of a hill!).
I've looked into bikes with an electric booster but am concerned they'd go too fast.
What I'd like to get him is a bike with a few gears (so he has a better chance to make it up the hill) but I think it has to have a coaster brake.  He has significant myotonia in his hands and, while he could operate gears, we don't want to trust his hands to stop the bike.
I've looked and looked and cannot find a bike with gears and a coaster brake.  Are there any out there?  I'd appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction.  Thanks.


texts: What's the performance difference between a front-load and top-load bike stem?

texts:
I recently bought a bmx and after doing a few tricks on it, the front-load stem became loose enough for the bars to slide forward (they rotated towards me about the point the bars were connecting at the stem.)

After tightening every bolt on the stem and adjusting the bars upright, I encountered the same problem after a few more tricks.

I was looking into buying a new stem and wanted to know what the major differences were between a front-load stem and a top-load stem.


texts: Cheap alternatives to avoid tire punctures

texts:
If you head to Walmart and see the slime bike liners for in the tire to stop goatheads and small nailes from actually running the tire.
Is there anything around the house or shed that can be used also?
Also the slime ones only seem to not cover the side of the tire wall. I do rock and outdoor bike riding and once hit a soft dirt patch that sunk my tire and a small nail got in from the side.

Any suggestions?


texts: How can I charge my phone while cycling?

texts:
I have an HTC Hero, which is a great phone, but the battery life is pretty poor if I'm using the GPS and music player on it as well. The phone uses a mini-USB connection for charging, and I have a Powermonkey portable charger just in case my phone runs out of juice.

But for longer rides, the extra charge and a half I get from the Powermonkey might not be enough - what other good options do I have? Either to charge the phone, or the Powermonkey, when cycling.


texts: What type of bicycle bell is easy to use with winter gloves?

texts: In the winter, I often ride with mittens and find it impossible to use my standard bell (the one where you bend the clapper and let it hit the body), because my thumb touches the body and mutes the sound. Even in normal gloves I find it difficult to ring the bell. What types of bicycle bells work with winter gloves?


texts: Is it worth time to rebuild an old steel frame?

texts:
I found an old Favorit racing bike. I didn't weigh it without all the parts but I find it pretty light, and it has a nice classic look. It is however really rusty (superficial damage only). Right now it's been rebuilt, and except for the very old and damaged crankset (which I'm going to change), it rides fine.

My question is: is it  worth it to repaint the bike and slowly rebuild it with higher quality parts? I'm not looking for the lightest bike, just a strong, comfortable and durable bike. Also, I like the fact that the bike would be unique and customized. Would I be better off buying a bike, or getting a better quality steel frame?


texts: When did Ultegra shift from 9 to 10 speed rear cassettes?

texts: I'm looking at a used Trek road bike for my daughter. I found an aluminum frame, carbon fork bike with 105 shifters and an Ultegra 9 speed rear derailer. I'm trying to figure out how old the bike is to determine how much I'm willing to pay for it (and how old that carbon front fork is). I own a Cannondale aluminum / carbon road bike with all 105 components and it has a 10 speed read cassette. I purchased tis bike in 2002. So when did Ultegra shift font 9 to 10 speed?


texts: Does more gear inches on a folding bikes work better?

texts:
Below are technical details of 2 folding bike that I am considering.

Friends, can I safely assume that the option 2 with more gear inches would be a good choice. I am a recreational weekend rider. I am gonna ride this for not more than 30 minutes on comparatively flat paved suburban roads with slight hills. I do not fancy fast but yes I would like to tackle some ascend and descend comfortably.

Is there a bigger question technically related to gears that I am missing?

Option 1

Gearing  14-28T 6-speed freewheel.
Chainwheel 52T steel chainwheel with 170mm alloy crank arms.
ChainRing Teeth : 52
Rear Sprocket Teeth: 14,16,18,21,24,28
Gear inches  69, 60, 54, 46, 40, 35
6 Speed Shimano drivetrain

Option 2

48T steel chainwheel with 170mm alloy crank arms.
ChainRing Teeth : 48
Rear Sprocket Teeth : 14,16,18,20,22,24,34
Gear inches  64, 56, 49.8, 44.8, 40.8, 37.4, 26.4
7 Speed Shimano drivetrain

Thanks


texts: How to encourage people close to me to become cyclists?

texts:
Sometimes you try to help somebody get into cycling (buy girlfriend a bike, fix up a
friend's bike, give a bike to family, help friend shop for bike) and they never
really get into it and fall back into the previous non-cycling habits.

Other times you do even less work and it "takes" and they get into cycling
and stick with it.

It's not clear to me why some attempts succeed and others fail.

What have you found worked to get somebody into cycling? What have you
seen work with others? What worked to get you into cycling? What techniques from other areas have you seen work that you think could work with cycling?

In my experience, a good first step is simply setting a good example, but we're looking for more than just that.

This started as a rewrite of What tactics other than 'setting an example' successfully encourage friends/family/others to become cyclists?
discussed at How can this question be improved?


texts:
I've got a nice used rear wheel that's slightly out of true.  Simple fix is true it up.
But the nipples are stuck to the spokes and won't turn freely.  I managed to get one spoke to do two full twists and still it wouldn't release.
The spokes are round profile, so there's no good way to hold them firmly while turning.
Without replacing all the spokes, what are my options to release the nipples?


texts: Have they ever made a bicycle with in-hub gears both at the crank and wheel?

texts:
I've got a hybrid bike with an 8 speed in-hub gear. I chose it because I didn't want to worry about the chain coming off or adjusting the derailleurs. It's been pretty bullet proof and given me no issues. The downside is, of course, that I only have 8 gears.

I was thinking why don't manufacturers put another in-hub gearing system in the crank? Even with 2 speeds at the crank that would double the range of gears.

Any reason why no ones done this?


texts: What's the largest biking forum on the internet?

texts:
While stackexchange is often great for specific questions, I'm looking for the biggest (english-language) biking forum on the internet.
To be more specific looking for info on e-bikes and cargo bikes, and conversations around them.
Is there a go-to site for biking in general, or do each bike / category of biking have separate, niche forums where one finds conversational gems?


texts: Can I use a 3x10 shifter/brake lever on a 3x8 bike?

texts: I have a 3x8 road bike, but mistakenly bought a 3x10 Shimano derailleur/brake lever.  Will it work or should I exchange?


texts:
I want to share my experience and ask for some further question on this issue.
I was on a roadtrip as I found out that tyre on my rear wheel was worn out. I could clearly see the threading (if this is correct name for that) on the side walls of the tyre near the rim. I swapped front and rear tyre to have the weak one in front because it gets less pressure. Was this correct thing to do? Also, should I have deflated the air pressure in tube when I saw this?
After some time, the tube punctured. As I examined it, the whole one side of the tube was worn out because the threading of the tyre rubbed against it. So there was a full circle of worn out material. Therefor, I didn't want to patch the tube because it seemed like it was already too weak.
What I did was cut that tube entirely open, wrapped it around new tube, stick it in place with some ducktape, and then put that tube inside a tyre. That way, the tyre could only rub on the outer tube, deform it, and perhaps even puncture it again, but the hole would have been too small to let the tyre reach the inner tube, and it seemed like pretty smart fix. What do you think about that?
Unfortunately, after some time, the tyre got so worn out that the threading start to break and a hole was made in the side wall. So, the tubes popped out of the tyre completely in form of a little ballon. At that point I had to stop and seek for new tyre.
But, I was in remote area and there were no bike shops, so I got some old tyre from some random guy that was also kind of worn out. It was worn out on the top wall (if that is the name of the part of the tyre where it touches the ground), but not as much as my old one. I put his tyre and it almost got me to a place where I could buy a proper new tyre when again the tube popped out in form of a ballon.
Then, I deflated the tube almost completely and walked the bicycle to the bike shop. Should and could I have put both my old and his old tyre to prevent leak of the tube? It seemed like a good idea, especially because they were damaged at different places, but I didn't want to risk some other stupid thing that might have happened. If that would have been a good idea, what about if the tyres were damaged at the same spot? Would then make sense having both of them? Two tyres and two tubes does sound ridiculous but in the means of necessity a lot of things cross my mind.
Also, I appreciate any other guidance on what to do in similar situation, or any sharing of your own personal experience.

Later:
Boot is something I wasn't aware that could be done and it sounds like a smart fix for a hole in the tyre. In my case, the threading of the tyre was damaged on the whole circumference of the sidewall, not from debris as Weiwen has assumed, just from being worn out. In that light, I think that old tube wrapped around new tube was better solution since there was no hole in the beginning. Of course, once the hole was made in a part of sidewall, I should have made a boot.
For some comments: I know I should have checked everything beforehand. I didn't. I hope this discussion will help someone other who gets into similar situation. Whether because he was stupid like me and didn't prepare, or did prepare but some bastard stole his panniers with equipment :-)


texts: Identify bike maker from frame number (DAXXXX)

texts:
I have a vintage lopro bike and would like to identify the frame maker, the serial stamped on bottom bracket starts with "DA" and is then 4 numeric digits,  I was told it may have been used in the Olympics/commonwealth 1988 or 90's.

Thanks


texts: Adult stabilizer wheels ,16" wheels mount securely to bike frame

texts: **The wheels work great as long as you are going in straight line , problem is turning . very difficult , i have both wheels about 1.5" above ground.Turning requires a great shift of how you are sitting  and lots of leaning , not good for people with balance issues . the rider is 16 and about 130 lbs. any ideas it seems watching video of the product that turning is no problem .   **


texts: Why would hydraulic disk-brakes become sluggish in cold winter? Just an incident or due to the cold?

texts:
Related question, I haven't bled the brakes (again a possible error).

I bought the bike as second-hand and the seller said that the mineral oil cannot be the problem. He said that the mineral oil in the brakes is one-year-old and his dealer instructed to buy a new bike (so I got mine 2-3 years old, driven 10k km). I cannot really trust the words so the rear brakes (no problem with front brakes) may have discolored oil, a thing to watch for according to Shimanos' guide. The caliper is Shimano BR-M485, and apparently other parts are proper (not verified), original Crescent Sport bike brakes apparently (not verified). I haven't yet checked that the brake pads are over 0.5mm as instructed but I feel it is not the problem, speculating. So possible errors:

not bleed the air from the brake system
discolored oil
not tighted some knob(?)
too worn-out pads
weather: perhaps some water in the tank and it freezes or oil vaporizing
unknown factor (?)

So why would you hydraulic brakes stop working in cold weather? The question is a bit confusing -- the problem started during cold winter and it persists in room temperature. I have earlier repaired inner hubs so is the procedure the same: break thing up to logical pieces and then follow Shimanos insructions or have you found better ways to repair broken hydraulic disk brakes? Again, the term broken is ambigous, the brakes work in a way that you need to press a lot more but now they feel loose (not with the front brake).

Could someone explain what the term bleeding here actually mean?
Must I really use Shimanos' mineral oil and not some cheap substitute?
Which minimum equipments are needed to repair|maintain the-brakes?

Tips to maintain the disk-brakes on low budget welcome.


texts: Is it possible to over-clean a bike chain?

texts:
I've seen it suggested that cleaning a chain too often or too thoroughly is bad for it, in that it removes the lubricant from the innermost parts of the chain, where it's most needed and most difficult to replace.  The KMC website in particular claims that using a bath-type chain cleaner will "instantly ruin" the chain.

On the other hand, Sheldon's article on chain maintenance doesn't mention this at all, but suggests that fresh lube is quite capable of penetrating through to the pins and inner surfaces of the rollers.  This seems plausible to me: as long as any excess degreaser – and as much water as possible – is removed, I can't imagine any part of the chain's interior remaining unlubed.

Is there actually any evidence to suggest that "over-cleaning" is harmful to chains?  And if so, how are you supposed to extract the gunk that accumulates in the chain, which presumably can be as harmful as too little lube?


texts: Single Speed/Fixie Wheels with cup and cone bearings

texts:
I need to replace the wheels on my cheap single speed/fixie bike (similar to a mango or purefix bike). The current wheels are 700 diameter deep-v style rims with Quando hubs that use cup and cone bearings. Most of the similar style wheels I find for sale now use sealed bearings instead of cup and cone. I really like the cup and cones because I enjoy servicing it myself and don't really want to invest in the specialist tools for replacing sealed bearings.

Are cheaper single speed wheels with cup and cone hubs still being manufactured or is this a thing of the past?


texts:
I've decided to cycle to work and got myself a new bike.

When the bike arrived I inflated the tyres to 80psi (20 below recommended) using a track pump. Instantly the inner tube blew up. I thought the one that came with the bike may have been poor quality. So I inserted a new continental tube and inflated it, and it too blew up.

Then I figured out the problem. The inner side of the rim has holes where spokes connect to the wheel. When I inspect the inner tube it seems to have small bumps on it corresponding to these holes. It seems when I inflate the tube to high pressure it tries to expand into these holes. It is exactly at one of these holes that the tube punctures and leaks.

I think the the rim should provide a smooth flat surface for the tube. But this is my first bike and I'm not very knowledgable. Is it common for bike rims to have this structure?

If not, what can I do to fix this problem? I'm thinking of filling up these holes with glue gun.


texts:
I recently asked a question about how to make a lockable suspension last longer. There zenbike told me about the “blow off” feature. Now, I am curious about how the whole system works.

So, can anyone tell me about how a lockable front suspension works, together with features like “remote-lock” and “blow-off”.


texts: What bike is this? Need to find derailleur hanger

texts:
I know derailleur hangers are specific to their frames, and since there are numerous brands with numerous models, I would need to know which one mine is before I can start searching for it, right?

What I know about the bike:

Brand: Giant
Model: Boulder
Frame: Size L, 6061 ALUXX Butted Aluminum

What I need to know:

The year this one was brought to market
Info on how to search for a derailleur/mech hanger (I fiugre the above will be relevant to that)

I have found this, but how can I be sure it's the right one?

Any help would be much appreciated!


texts:
The mountain bike I've restored has spent all its time riding roads. I'd love a road bike but funds aren't up to it yet,
so I was thinking about putting a pair of road bike tyres on and swapping with the mountain bike tyres when needed.
I'm running 26x1.95 at the moment, and I'm wondering if I would benefit from a different size for the road.
I'm assuming the 1.95 refers to the width of the tyre.


texts: I'm having great difficulties getting a kevlar belted tire onto my rim (maybe I'm getting old).  I had heard about the Kool-Stop tire bead jack as a possible alternative to using just my tire levers. Has anyone used these things? Am I signing myself up for a pinch flat?


texts:
I bought some carbon cyclocross wheels in 2014 on ebay from seller diybike. (listing long gone).
After 13,000km the freehub body has seen better days. Trying to source a replacement without swapping out the entire hub.
It's a 3 pawl, 24h , 135mm QR, 6 bolt disc brake hub, 10/11spd shimano hub. No identifiable markings. Has a 15mm axle the enduro 6802LLB bearings ride on.
I've seen DT swiss freehubs that look close but they don't seem to have the bearing nearest the pawls protruding.
Any ideas?
Few images here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xo5ZfzAHccafiCwG7


texts: Identify this old folding bike that I got from the tip - an early Dahon?

texts:
please excuse my ignorance. I'm not into biking but i do like to rescue mainly junk from anywhere, charity shops, the tip, skips etc.
so on sunday i was making a trio to my local tip and decided to have a quick peak at the sales shed.
i came across what looked like a screwed up bike which sparked my interest, a folding bike lol very cool, so for a fiver i took it home,
i spent hours looking for even a picture of this same bike and in the end i emailed Mr Baker who restores bickerton bikes, after a few emails back and forth he has told me although it shows the bickerton name it was made by Dahon in Taiwan, Mr Baker didn't give me much but did say it was a nice
find and quite a rare bike.

i would appreciate any help or information on this bike, i still cant find any online although I'm sure there must be some out there.
PLEASE HELP. thanks in advance


texts: Is there a benefit using SPD SH-51 cleats over SH-56?

texts:
With SH-56, you can remove your shoes easier.
I wonder if there's a benefit of using SH-51 over SH-56? Does 51 help produce more power (less loss)?


texts:
I'm a utility cyclist. Usually when I ride, I wear good outdoor shoes that are waterproof and hard-wearing, so it's OK if they get scuffed on pedals or splashed with mud or oil from the road surface. (Proper mudguards help a lot but still aren't 100% effective.)

On occasion, I go to an event in formal dress, which entails wearing black, polished leather shoes. It's a lot harder to keep these clean and shiny. If I've a long ride to get there, I'll usually wear some shoes that are better for cycling and keep my black pair in my bag. But if I'm only riding 10 minutes to get to an event in town, having to pack a second pair and change them is a lot less convenient.

Is there an easier alternative? A plastic bag over the shoes, secured with elastic, would keep them clean, but not (I fear) protect them from scuffs; besides, I'd be afraid of slipping when I put my foot down. Any other ideas?


texts: Is it safe to leave my carbon bike in my stationary trainer for extended periods of time?

texts:
This time of year, I leave my race (carbon) bike on the trainer and when nice enough, just ride my rain/wet/commuter/cx bike.

I do replace the 'race' skewer with a steel skewer for trainer use.

Will it damage the carbon if I leave the bicycle clamped and ready to train on the trainer? Should I release the clamp every time I'm done training?


texts: Ferrule to mount hydraulic disc brake hose to frame

texts: Is there some kind of ferrule(or similar) that can be used to fasten a hydraulic disc brake hose to the braze-ons of a frame that used to have v-brakes? The hose is to thin to stick to the braze-ons, so I need something that will keep it in place.


texts: Sun Tour Cyclone brake levers and brake cable housing

texts:
I have a vintage road bike with Sun Tour Cyclone single-pivot calipers, with Cyclone levers.  I recently had the front brake cable housing "detach" from the brake lever. It appears to have a large 'ferrule'-type piece on the end of the housing. (what's the name of this part?)

The right lever appears to have the housing head straight into the lever, and appears crimped in.  It's not visible in the photo either way but I don't believe there is a similar cable housing ferrule.

What is the correct method for me to get the rear-brake cable housing back into the brake lever, and secure it in place?


texts: Trying to tighten a saddle clamp but nothing seems to give

texts:
I'm first trying to remove a stuck seat post through brute force. I've removed the wheels, fork, and chain so that it can more easily be worked with upside down.
I began to turn the frame in a direction while the saddle was lodged in between something strong. After spinning the frame so many times, I noticed the gap (between the red lines) becoming bigger (than what is pictured). So then I spun it in the opposite direction to close the gap; how it was before I began all of this. Now, the gap doesn't seem to close anymore and I can spin the frame indefinitely—behaving similar to like a thread-stripped screw.
My belief is that I originally spun against the direction I was intending for, and now I'm spinning in the intended direction but endlessly. If the gap closes then hopefully I can try to loosen the seat post.
Frame is chromoly, I think the post is aluminum.
What do you think is going on here and how do we remedy it?
Disclaimer, I'm not concerned about damaging the seat post or the saddle (obviously).
I ultimately just want to install the new water bottle cage that hugs onto the seat post.


texts: E wheel needs an 8sp free wheel instead of cassette

texts:
My new electric wheel requires a free wheel set up. I have an 8 speed Shimano cassette which obviously won’t work.

Can I find a free wheel that will be similar to my cassette? I realize I may have to get a 6 or 7 speed free wheel to allow for space on my frame.


texts:
I'm looking for a retro road bike and found a Gudereit T30 with a steel frame, 12 gears, and Mavic rims.

How can I compare this bike to more common bikes to figure out its value?

Comparing the shifters and gears seems easy (DuraAce-Ultegra-105), but how do I compare the steel frame and wheels?

Some pictures:

http://cl.ly/image/1g1h2G0c2d2O

http://cl.ly/image/2b2m2G2l0J0w


texts:
I have bought an old mtb with cantilever brakes. Front has regular yoke and works just fine.
Problem is in the rear, where there's a Power Hanger bolted into the frame just above the tire. It looks like that:

only not on the fork.

Brakes are very soft, movement of pads is uneven, they are unable to lock the wheel no matter what.

I'm wondering if this hanger is properly mounted, should it move while braking or should it be bolted tight?

I can't imagine how this device would work. I already found that it's based on a bell crank but I can't see how it applies to braking. How, physically, would movement of one arm cause the other to get closer to the rim?


texts: Setting up chain tension on a fixed gear with road bike frame

texts:
I got a road bike frame with vertical drops, so can't set the tension up. Tried to remove one link but then the chain becomes too short.
My next idea was to change the front sprocket, currently have 46 tooth sprocket.
The question is though: how much will each next tooth affect the chain tension?


texts:
I was at my local bike dump looking for a spare set of wheels for an older bike I have.  He said that they have lots of steel wheels but very few aluminum.  Whats the deal on this?

What are the differences between steel and aluminum wheels?  Why are aluminum wheels more desirable?


texts:
I have an 29" LaPierre Hardtail. What is the difference between 29" wheels and smaller ones?

I'd like to know this not only for single trails but also on the road and / or downhill trails.


texts: To what pressure should I pump my 2.4 inch punctured tubeless tyre?

texts:
[The tale of a tire]
I had a puncture in my tyre. I refilled the sealing liquid, inflated it to 3 atmospheres and rode approx 9 km (including stairs and small jumps) to work. Checked the pressue and it seemed to be quite the same as before the ride. I parked the bike in my office and then after 2 hours all of a sudden heard hissing - apparently the hole reopened. I turned the wheel so that the sealant might be just above the hole and the hole closed again. On my way to work I inflated it again to 3 atmospheres but then yet again the hole reopened - but then after a moment sealed itself again. I did not increase the pressue again and it seems to be maybe around 1.5 atmospheres.

What can I do to be able to ride 2.8 -3 atmospheres again (as I am rather on the heavier side...)? Should I pump the tyre to 4 atmospheres, let the hole open and close again and then I can ride with 3 a?


texts: Pedaling causes rear wheel/pedals to slip

texts: When I start to pedal, say up hill or have to move quickly, my pedals slip and I can't get any movement except for a really bad slip. When I'm on a flat straightaway and have to pedal I hear an awful clanking.


texts: I have a bike equipped with a SRAM 22 speed groupset (hydraulic) and was thinking about converting it to a 1x11.  I like the simplicity of the 1x11 system and the potential weight savings from removal of redundant components.  Is this conversion possible and if so, what steps would I need to take assuming I possess all the required tools?


texts: Need to choose crankset for 135mm rear hub of MTB

texts:
I replaced older 8 speed cassette on my Cannondale Trail with new Shimano Deore M6000 10 speed cassette (11-42). But since the axle spacing is of older type, want to get a matching crankset (2x preferred). Any suggestions?
Deore M6000 crankset I presently tried, but has chainline issue.


texts: What are the most comfortable endurance bib shorts these days?

texts:
I generally ride for 30-70 miles each outing and am wanting to get a couple pairs of quality, comfortable bib shorts for summer weather. I tried on a couple Castellis but the fit just isn’t right and for one of their $200+ shorts, I would think they’d be more comfortable. The material seemed scratchy which obviously isn’t good for hours and miles in the saddle. I don’t mind spending extra as long as I’m getting top quality comfort, performance and durability.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks! Ride on!


texts: Is it possible/sensible to add a suspension fork to an old mountain bike?

texts:
I have a ~1993 Giant mountain bike.  It's not great, but I am a very new and casual rider.

The bike has a solid fork and it makes for the predictable rough trail ride.  The trails are generally fairly modest (I live in North Texas, a 100' change in altitude makes our ears pop here) and the surface is generally dirt (very few rocky areas).

So, I am thinking that it would be very nice to have a suspension bike.  And seeing that a modest fork can be purchased for a modest price, I am wondering if it makes sense to add a fork to this bike.

This question asked about going the other direction, and there were some cautionary words about changing steering geometry.

So, on balance, is this something that I would be best off to avoid?  I suspect that if I have to replace a bunch of steering parts, the cost will quickly approach that of a new low end bike.


texts: 1970's Gitane Gypsy: Brakes and types I can Use Shimano: ULTEGRA R8000

texts:
I want an updated brake system for Gitane Gypsy (1970's frame). Some braking types have descriptions that indicate "short reach caliper', which, is eponymous with its name I’m sure, however, I want to know if that will affect my tire size I need, (which should be 27'') or other mechanism with respect to braking system or my tires or my mounting position on the bike iteself... I am mounting it on a 1970's Gitane Gypsy..

brake types interested in:  Shimano: ULTEGRA R8000


texts: I'm looking into buying some bike shorts and wanted to know what was economical and yet still better than normal gym shorts (which I'm using now for about 17 or 34 miles per day). Walmart has bike shorts for $30, but I'm not sure what the metal eyelets are for. Do they serve a purpose or is it simply for 'looks'?


texts: I got glow-in-the-dark tape. Where do I place it?

texts: Would I be able to use glow-in-the-dark duct tape to help illuminate a bike at night? I already ride with forward and rear lights.


texts:
Does anybody have idea what is this bicycle frame? We are considering with a friend restoring it and would be grateful for any info, also is it worth it.

Frame is totally without any stickers or manufacturer marks, only spray on it. Only thing characteristic are stars visible on the two connections and under bottom and probably Campagnolo hooks.

https://imgur.com/a/nPj74


texts: How do I figure out which size chain my fixed gear bike has

texts: My fixed gear bike is going to want a new chain soon, how do I figure out which width I should use?


texts: Dual air forks negative positive chamber pressure equality

texts:
Regarding solo air forks everything is clear. Once we bumped both chambers pressure is equal.
 But why for dual air forks air pressure doesn't try to get equal in both chambers? What's the point of second chamber if it has different pressure and doesn't try to equal it?


texts: Why does my chain slips when I put pressure on my pedals

texts:
When I get on my bike and put pressure on my pedals or stand up and pedal, my chain slips. I want to know what the problem is so I can fix it myself as I don’t have a lot of money for a bike shop to fix it. Any help would be appreciated.

My whole chain slips when I put pressure on my mountain bike's pedals. I have a 3 speed at front and 7 speed on the rear.

Bike is approximately 5/6 years old. it happens on all gear combinations but happens mostly in front 2nd gear. And it steadily happened and got worse over time. Chain has not been replaced.


texts:
Relatively recent (within 5 years) Ultegra 11-speed set up on internally routed carbon frame.
Replaced cables.
Rear mech. shifts fine...until front mech. is shifted to the big ring.
When there is tension on front cable, rear will not make it to largest cog, and has trouble downshifting.
EDIT: Just removed and reinstalled cables again, this time using two extra pieces of cable housing to attempt to keep the cables organized while routing.  Removed the extra housing once the cables were through.  Re-assembled....issue is still present.
NEW UPDATE: Still trying to figure out how increasing tension of the FD (when shifting to big ring) decreases cable tension on the RD. So that when the chain is on the big ring up front, the rear will not shift to the largest cog.  Leading theory is there is something amiss with the cable routing as proposed by @Nathan Knutson.  Here are some pics.  Does anyone see anything suspicious?  Missing parts?
MORE RECENT UPDATE: Checked chain sizing (in light of a comment below), using the method of bypassing the rear derailleur and wrapping the chain around the largest cog and the large chain ring.  The chain appears to be the correct length.
Is it possible that the cables or routing is a red herring, and my issues is somewhere else, like the  rear derailleur itself?  ...though hard for me to believe because it shifts correctly when in the small chain ring up front.


texts: How can I spin a dynamo wheel at road speed for bench testing?

texts:
I can check my dynamo works by spinning the wheel on the workstand or just riding, but I'd like to do some more involved testing. I'd like to develop some custom electronics to use the extra power available at high speeds (for charging),  to drive an additional rear light that's always on even if the front light isn't, etc. The first step is to measure the output. I can make a start with a battery oscilloscope in my top tube bag, but that won't get me very far.

Road speed is something like 300 rpm, and I can't achieve that by just spinning the wheel by hand, let alone work my oscilloscope at the same time, so I'd like a hands-free solution. Ideally this would work on the bike, as I'd like to try this with the existing lights as well.

I have tried running the chuck of a cordless drill against the front tyre, handheld. The speed ratio should be about right given the diameters of the chuck and wheel, but there's too much slippage from the hard curved plastic. Something cheap and easy to fit/remove would be ideal.


texts: Which chainguard (or alternative chainring) for a Shimano FC-M 510 crankset

texts:
My commuter bike is equipped with a Shimano FC-M 510 crankset,
the teeth configuration being 44/36/22. Unfortunately, the largest
chainring has no chainguard attached to it (and also no holes), so that
occasionally my clothes gets stained with the chain lube.
As far as I can see, one can still buy original Shimano chainrings for this model
that do have holes for attaching a chainguard, e.g. here
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/FC-M540-9-speed-Chainring-for-Chain-Guards-p14246/
(it's for M540, but is listed as compatible to M510). According to the manual, the original Shimano part no. for the chainguard itself is Y-1C618000, yet I couldn't find even a single online store in Germany that still sells those chainguards.
So my question is, are there other chainguards that are compatible to Y-1FM98100?
Perhaps I could just buy a chainring with a chainguard from a different Shimano crankset model, that would still work with the remaining parts of my M510? I understand that it might not work 100% perfectly, but usually I don't switch gears so often and the bike is for commuting only (within a city), so it wouldn't be a major disaster. The current drive train consists of Deore XT FD-M738, Deore XT RD-M761, CS-HG51 and CN-HG71c. I'm familiar with adjusting front and real derailleurs (did it myself multiple times) and have all the necessary tools. I just don't know how far different parts of Shimano cranksets are compatible or incompatible with each other.


texts:
I would really appreciate any information that could help to identify this bike frame.  I bought the frame at a garage sale and was told the frame was a "specialized" possibly s works but never had anything to back that up. I have done as much research as I can and I now doubt  it to be made by specialized. But still have no idea which manufacturer made the frame. I believe  it to be roughly early 2000's period bike from geometry, style and hardware compatability. It is a aluminium alloy  frame that looks to be hydroformed. It has been tig welded by hand and is a 21" frame that weighs  only 1.955 kg or 4lb 3oz. Which seems lightweight to me for a older frame? The serial number is stamped on the bb outer shell parallel to the frame and the number is : SW0401833 please check your bike serial number if anyone has one starting "SW" I would love to know the manufacturer name. The frame has capability to run rim brakes (post mount) or disk calipers. The head tube is semi integrated 50mm outside diameter 44mm inside.  The cables are routed on top of the top tube in a cluster of three made of alloy and part of the frame, there are two of these "3 clusters" on the top tube positioned near the headtube and seat post. As far as I know the frame was never painted so possibly came from the factory in bare metal or lacquered finish although  that's only an assumption I made from not being able to find a trace of paint or over spray anywhere on the frame including inside of the headtube, bb, or seat tube.  I can add any measurements or specific pictures  if that would help to narrow it down at all. Please comment if you know anything at all that could help identify this frame. Thanks for looking!
 (https://i.stack.imgur.com/B591a.jpg)


texts: How to waterproof Shimano dynamo connector?

texts:
I have a Shimano DH-3N31-NT hub dynamo with following type of connector:

Yesterday, diodes in the bridge rectifier of my front LED light exploded. While I was disassembling the light, I noticed that the wires inside of the connector were more than a bit patinated after some 7 months of use.

I'm wondering, what should I do to weatherproof the wires? The dynamo manual, as far as I can see, doesn't mention any weatherproofing steps.


texts: I have 2008 Specialized Rockhopper Comp. I bent my crank arm but can't find the same model online which is a Shimano FC-442/443 crank arm. If I wanted to replace my crankset what could fit onto my bike? I know there is Octalink and square taper but how do I know the difference and what is the right fit.


texts: Is it worth rebuilding a broken front wheel

texts:
Hit a pretty bad pothole at the weekend which caused the rim of my front wheel to shatter into 4 peices.
The hub is still intact and appears fine. Is it worth buying a new rim and spokes and rebuilding? The wheel is a Mavic Ksyrium Pro SL.


texts: Please help me. When I'm using my hydraulic brake I hear a weird sound. I think putting oil on it will cure the problem but I guess it just come out worse. After putting oil my brakes they are not working. How can I fix this?


texts: General question about small transmission changes

texts:
I am trying to wrap my head around the benefit I may get out of small changes regarding my transmission ratio.

Here is the premise:

11-42 cassette (Shimano M7000)
36-26 crankset (Shimano MT600)

I found that I generally don‘t use the lowest gears much - if at all - as the hills around here are more like bumps in the landscape.

That led me to wondering if maybe even small tweaks, like switching to a cassette with less teeth in the lowest gear as well a crank with more teeth would even be recognizable.

To summarize: Would changing above mentioned cassette and crank to

11-40 cassette and
38-28 crankset

even matter?

I am very interested in your experiences and thoughts about such small changes.

Supplementary question: would that change lead to compatibility issues?

Thanks!


texts:
My Disc brakes have been shuddering all day (been riding most the day). And when I say moan, I mean like I can feel the bike shudder up to my rear end. I tried the trick where you rub mud on them and brake hard a few times, and that made them stop shuddering, temporarily. I think the reason they are shuddering is because I recently took out the pads and cleaned them. I also cleaned off the rotors with some simple green. I'm not sure I bedded the pads in right, because I've never really done so before. To bed them in I just braked hard a handful of times after re-inserting all 4 of my cleaned pads. The pads are in good condition, as they have those little gold sparkles. I checked the calipers, and everything looks good. I don't think they're contaminated, as the rotor is clean.

Update: So here's what I've done: scrubbed the pads off with an unused toothbrush, cleaned off the rotors with isopropyl alcohol, and bedded in the pads properly this time (dousing the rotors with cold clean water each time!). Yet it still moaned. The reason I say that past tense is that in adjusting the worlds most nonadjustable mountain bike somehow the brake cable has gone completely slack. I can't even tighten or loosen it on my bike (diamondback overdrive sport). I tried adjusting the calipers, nope. To adjust them, one has to loosen them to the point where they just wobble around or have them so tight that the pads rub the rotor. So yeah, I'm probably going to have to take an expensive trip to the bike shop.


texts: Sram Red AXS Crank Bolt Cap missing - how to remove crank, if at all?

texts:
I've got an Sram AXS Dub Crankset on my bike and noticed a few days ago, that the black cover around the crankset bolt (chainring side.. where you tighten/loosen usally to remove the crankset) has apparently.. fallen off. I didn't touch that but it's gone. I asked my dealer and he said Sram doesn't offer these covers, yet so he sent me a replacement crankset which is nice, but I am having problems removing the old crankset in the frame.

I tried and tried but couldn't remove it (by turning counter-clockwise with an 8mm hex key) so I started googling and it appears that this particular black cap is actually needed to remove the crank - is that true?

Or let me ask another way: is it possible (and if so how) to remove the crankset as is / shown in the picture?


texts: Shimano 105 5600 derailleur compatability with 105 5700 11-28 casette

texts: My current cassette is a 105 5600 12-27 the front is a 105 5600 53/39. I want to go compact so will the Shimano 105 5600 rear derailleur support the 105 5700 11-28 cassette?


texts: What kind of road bike wheels do I need to replace my stolen ones?

texts:
I am looking to buy a pair of second-hand wheels, to replace a pair that was stolen off my 2012 road bike, but I'm nervous about compatibility.  I'd like to ask how exact I need to be in the following areas:

I believe (but am not 100% sure) that the old wheels were marked "622-14", which I guess means the rim width is 14 mm.  Do I need exactly this rim width?  I have Shimano BR-R560 rim brakes, but the manual for these does not specify what range of rim widths they will accommodate.
The cassette was a Shimano 105 10-speed, 11-28T.  Do I need this exact make, brand, number of speeds, and range of cogs?  I'd guess I should stick with Shimano and 10-speed, but there's no need to stick with the 105 brand or 11-28T?  However, that is a guess.

Is there anything else I am forgetting?

I'm aware of hub widths front and rear, but I've read that these have been standard on road bikes at 100 and 130 mm respectively for a long time - please do correct me if wrong!


texts: Are road tyres suitable for any off-road riding at all?

texts:
I'm looking to buy a bike for my commute - 6 miles a day. The commute itself is all on roads, so naturally I'm looking at road bikes. My main worry is that if I invest in such a bike I won't be able to ride off-road at all, for example down a towpath (Towpaths can have very rough surfaces).

Would I be better off investing in a light hybrid bike (with thicker tyres) over the road bike, given that I might want to go off-road some of the time?


texts: Campagnolo Ergopower inaccurate shifting on high and low cogs

texts:
I replaced the G-Spring and G-Spring carrier on my 9 speed Chorus Ergopower.
Now it is shifting better and the clicks are sharper, but I can't adjust the derailleur to shift good on all gears good.

On the blue cogs the chain grinds and jumps on the bigger cogs. On the red cogs the chain needs extra shifting force after the click to jump on the bigger cog.

If I make the tension of the cable higher or lower the chain will not work with the bigger or smaller cogs at the same time.

Any idea what part could be worn out and should be replaced? I think the Ergopower shifter are causing this.

The derailleur hanger seems to be straight. Changing the position with the screw on the derailleur couldn't fix the bad shifting.


texts: What is the black piece above the bottom bracket on this bike?

texts: I came across the 2018 Specialized Diverge road bike. What is the little black piece attached to the downtube and seat tubes?


texts: My crank fell off, how do I re-attach it?

texts:
I was out riding on my mountain bike when my crank unexpectedly fell off (video).

How do I reattach the crank? There's a torque range specified (25-30 Ft-Lbs):

how critical is this? I don't own a torque wrench, if I use an allen key and just guess am I likely to either apply to much force and break something or apply to little force and have the crank work loose again?


texts: Need help identifying replacement parts compatible w/ bike model

texts:
I have a 2003 Haro V3 mountain bike, and the 8 speed gearshift no longer works.

Additionally, the rim brakes are finicky and I wish to swap to disc brakes. Lastly the front fork is work out and no longer absorbs shock.

So all together I need a new fork and gear shift, and if it’s possible I’d also like to swap to disc brakes.

I’m new to bike modification, and I don’t want to buy any parts that won’t work with my bike.

Here’s a link to all the specs of the bike. The only difference is the seat, pedals, and handle bars have been changed.

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/38580/


texts:
I ride a fixie and fenders just don't look good on it. Rear fender is ok, but there is no way I'm installing such a monstrosity on the front wheel. Are there any alternative out there that don't make make shoes soaking wet after a few turns?

I've seen interesting approach done on a Denny bike that won The Bike Design Project. Is a brush that constantly contacts the tire a good approach?


texts: Best Alternative Tubeless Tape to Gorilla Tape?

texts:
So i've been trying to get a pair of gravel tires to set up tubeless for way too long, it's been a comedy of errors but a very good learning experience. Where I am currently at is that the gorilla tape i've been trying to use is just too thick, it is a struggle to get the tire to pop into the bead fully even with a tube. With a significant amount of soap and a few days of it sitting, i've gotten it to seat but it has created small tears in the tape while doing so which leads to leaking that sealent hasn't really been able to plug later on.

I used some Stans tape initially but the 21mm for a 19mm internal rim width (Bike shop said it would work and i was uneducated at that point). It did not work at all, but the tire seated easily with it. I was considering repurchasing that at a 25mm width. Unless there is other recommendations for a thinish tubeless tape that people have had success with. Any ideas?


texts: Are neutral service bikes actually useful?

texts:
In the races I've watched, occasionally a rider who has suffered a mechanical will be given a neutral service bike to continue racing on. I always wonder if this does any good because the rider never seems to make it back onto the peleton or breakaway group.
This article from bicycling.com says:

Generally, the rider will stay on the neutral service bike for only a few miles before pulling over in a better spot and exchanging it for a team-supplied spare with the correct fit coordinates.

I've never noticed this happening, but that may be because I mostly watch women's racing, and maybe they don't have as many team spare bikes at the ready as the men? Nor have I ever noticed anyone crossing the finish line on a neutral service bike (although I'm sure that does happen).
My question can be answered with the following: has a rider on a neutral service bike ever gotten a top-10 result or been able to sufficiently perform domestique duties, directly assisting a team member in getting a top-10 result?
In my research, I found two interesting incidents in which the service bikes were unhelpful:

Fabio Aru "couldn't really pedal" because of a high seat
Chris Froome's neutral service bike had Look pedals instead of Shimano

Note: since I'm new to cyling, I've probably made some incorrect assumptions here. Please feel free to correct any of them


texts: What is the maximum weight could 26 1 3/8 tire and tube could withstand?

texts:
I bought my first bike few months ago, and it is old Raleigh 26" 1 -3/8 size.
Every time I go with this bike through some bumps the rear tire and inner tube get punctured with large hole.

It is written in the tire that the maximum weight is 70Kg and I am 80Kg.

Is it the quality of the inner tube and tire makes it vulnerable to puncture? (we only have some cheap chinese tires and tubes in my country)

Or the size will not fit with my weight?
Or I can find a 26" tire and tube that could hold my weight?


texts:
Can anyone confirm if a Shimano 5800 crank would be compatible with the 5700 group set ?
What issues would I face in doing so, if any?


texts: Will a road brake lever work with a v-brake?

texts:
I'm planning on changing my commuter handlebar to a drop handlebar. As the diameters are different, I need to know if the new brake lever will work with the existing v-brakes.

(My intention is to remove the handlebar+levers+shifters and install a drop handlebar + ultegra bar end shifter + whatever shimano brake lever that works fine.


texts:
I'm looking to buy a truing stand. Is the Park TS-8 Home good enough? Or should I pay double the price and get the Park TS-2.2 Pro. I have some experience truing wheels, but never on a nice stand. I was using my makeshift home made stand which consists of an old fork and calipers constructed from u-brakes that are bolted on to the fork.  Obviously anything would be huge step up from my current method, but I wonder if the Pro is really that much better?

I only need to true bmx wheels (20in) and I used to run 48 spokes so they would stay true for a long time. However, I recently switched to 36 spokes and I find they need a lot more attention.


texts: How can I stop an Adult trike when both front brakes fail?

texts:
I have a lovely easy adult trike and I use it all the time.
Now the thing is because it's a trike, it only has front brakes.

Well on the 14th Feb I was riding to my local charity, got to the hill and was
riding it down when Twang the brake wire snapped and I desperately tried the other front
brake this was gone too ... now this path leads on to a very busy road, with the two chicanes with metal fences ... with both brakes gone. I had no choice but to run into the second fence, a silver metal bar type.

Sorry about this long question is there any way I can add a brake to the two rear wheels of my trike to stop this happen again?

If this can't be done can I stop myself any other way?  .....

Update on this question. The brakes have been fixed for now... Tires are pumped up and I am oiling the Chain drive....Have to check the information provided.
Thanks please continue to answer the above question. Just bare in mind I am new...sorry if finding an answer takes a long time.. I like to look at all options.


texts: Headset/fork adaptor from semi-integrated to integrated?

texts:
I'm building a Frankenstein fixie from a variety of parts lying around and have run into a problem with my forks/steerer. I suspect this is because the frame that the forks were taken from had a semi-integrated system (I think that's the right terminology - when you remove the fork, the ball-bearings are exposed), whereas on the new frame the bearings are enclosed.

Anyway, other than the ridiculous aesthetics and maybe some exposure to grime, there is this looseness to the assembly that causes a clunk on bumpy roads and a bit of wobble during normal riding that I can't get rid of at the risk of over-tightening the whole assembly.

I have read some good resources here (and of course on Sheldon Brown's site) (Frame/fork compatibility), (How do I fix movement in headset), and others.

The reason I'm still posting this question is:
1. Is it even possible to use these two incompatible systems and is there a generally accepted way to to it?
2. If I'm ordering a new headset based on this configuration am I more concerned about the frame specs or the fork specs?

Thanks for your (gentle) answers – I'm a rank amateur with only a handful of builds under my belt!


texts: I have a Shimano 11-42T 10s cassette and Shimano XT M786 SGS Deore RD, can I make these work together by using goatlink or am I wasting my time?


texts: Choosing new tires: can't find my size on schwalbe site

texts:
My bicycle is Merida Crossway MD-40. I Measured the tires and got the following numbers: 701mm x 41mm. Or 27,42 In x 1,6 In.

I wanted to buy one of Schwalbe tires for it. But to my surprise my size was missing on their site.

Is my size somewhat non-standard? Why doesn't Schwalbe produce this size? Are there other companies that do? I wanted to buy slicks with puncture protection.


texts: What is the life expectancy of aluminum alloy frames?

texts:
I learned for the first time that aluminum alloy frames are said to have a "life expectancy".

This is the bike in question, my 2007 Felt Z80. It has an aluminum alloy frame. I really like it and don't want to buy another road bike for a while. But it is almost 10 years old. My specific frame is a 7005 series alloy.

From what I was told, steel frames show their degradation with rust while aluminium alloy may not show any signs at all even though it is still degrading.

How can you tell if an aluminum alloy frame is starting to degrade before catastrophic failure?

How long can I expect an aluminum alloy frame to last?


texts:
I recently received a MTB as a birthday gift. I'm 18 now but have been riding bikes since I was 6. I've always wanted to wheelie for longer distances and now I learned how to after praying. But anyway, I'd like to improve by training my muscles, but I don't know what muscles I have to stress in order to get better wheelie endurance. I have a back hydraulic suspension which I set to bet pretty hard because the softer it is the more of a setback it is for wheeling.

Thanks


texts: Hydraulic brakes, cold causes 0% braking capacity

texts:
Its recently been cold, around 0 degrees C at night, where my bike is stored in the outside shed.

Ive replaced the pads, and bled the brakes around 6 months ago.

When taking out my bike it has 0% brake capacity initially, and the levers touch the handle bars without stopping the wheel.

After pumping them for around 5 minutes, they sharpen up to around 40%.

Then they jump between working (40%) and not (0%) randomly over the next 10-20 minutes.

What could the issue/fix be?

Should I re-bleed the brake fluid, replace the o-rings, or keep the bike indoors?

Should I be able to store my bike in a shed at low temperatures without the brakes breaking?

Thanks


texts: On my Trek Domane SLR the end of the front brake cable touches the tire. It makes an enerving sound and I am a afraid it destroys my tire. I thought about using some tape, but that is not possible because of the moving brake arm. Is there any possibility to push the cable to the side without renewing the while cable?


texts: Is there any reason not to buy 2x11 GRX shifters for a 1x setup if I don't plan on adding a dropper post?

texts:
I plan to buy a Shimano GRX 1x11 groupset. My understanding is that Shimano offer two left-hand shifters:

2-speed for 2x11 setups
Dropper-post lever for 1x11 setups with a dropper post

I do not plan to run a dropper post in the future, but I might switch to 2x11 if I decide that 1x11 does not offer enough gears.

It seems more sensible then to buy 2x11 shifters and simply not connect the shifting cable on the 2-speed lever to anything. If I choose to move to 2x11 speed then I do not need to buy any new shifters.

Is there any reason not to do this?


texts: Shimano 600 downtube shifter installation

texts: I recently purchased some vintage 6-speed Shimano 600 downtube shifters. The package came with all the parts in a ziploc bag and it looks a bit bewildering. Any idea where I can find an installation diagram for this assembly?


texts:
I have the following chain/gear setup:

I like to get rid of the rear wheel gears. However I don't want to buy any new parts. That is why I am wondering if I simply can remove all the parts from the rear gear shift, and simply shorten the chain?


texts: My calf catches my derailleur when I pedal

texts: I wore cycling shorts for the first time since purchasing my Ridley Liz and I found that my right calf was catching on my derailleur to such an extent that I ended up with no skin left on my leg.  Is there anything I can do about this?


texts: How does weight and strength of a person effects the riding of bicycle at higher speeds?

texts:
I weigh very low about 56 kilograms and height is 5 feet 6 inches.I use a hybrid for fun and commuting.

While riding i use the hishest gear on my bike always i.e 48 tooth front and 11 tooth back.
I usually travel at the speed of 26km/h - 30 km/h (16.15 to 18.64 mile per hour) on flat  with very little opposite side wind but when i  push harder i go about 40 km/h (24.85 miles per hour) on flat with very little opposite side wind while only for short bursts of 1 minute or so.

I was wondering if increasing my weight to say +10 kilograms would help me gain speed since its the weight of the body which is used to push the pedals and you can push only so much as your weight considering newtons thrird law of motion,

  Every action has equal and opposite reaction

i.e your push on pedals pushs your body upwards so  the max amount of force or push that can be applied on the pedals is equivalent to your body weight unless your shoulders are tied to the frame of the bicycle.


texts: Can I replace my self-energizing brakes with regular cantilevers?

texts:
I recently bought a used tandem and am going to be tuning it up over the winter.  It's a Yakota Twin Peaks (i.e. 20 years old) and it has Scott-Peterson Self-Energizing brakes.  I haven't taken them apart yet, but all the descriptions online say the same thing: they have a helical thread as the pivot, so when the pad touches the rim and is dragged forward, the pads are forced inward onto the rims with more force, increasing the braking power.

What I'm wondering is whether there are conventional cantilever bosses under there or did the SE brakes require something special?

For my purposes (pretty gentle cruising on the tandem with my daughter on the back), I don't think I need any extra stopping power, so I'm thinking of replacing the SE brakes with regular cantilevers.  But before I dive in, I'd like to find out more about what I'll find if I start taking them apart.


texts:
Campagnolo Triple T rear derailleur 9 Speed
Campagnolo Athena 3x11 speed crank and front derailleur
Chain KMC X11 with missing link.
http://www.kmcchain.eu/chain-KMC_X11–93-road_cross-11_speed

The new chain jumps on the sprocket, it goes very fast and I can really see where it happens, but think it does not jump to an other sprocket but somehow on the spocket itself. It only occurs when I pedal with a lot of power and only on the smaller sized sprocket.

Edit:


texts:
I have just ordered a fixie frame with no forks.

I will need to order a set of forks and cut them correctly (to the right size) so I can install my headset.

Are there any tips/ tutorials on how to do this correctly the first time and avoid having cut the forks tube too short?

thanks,


texts: Not finding the right tension for my threadless headset

texts:
I recently installed a new fork on a bike I'm building up. I find that before I get the preload tension correct on the top cap to remove knocking, a squeaking sound starts emanating from the steer tube area when I turn the handlebars.

I am going to disassemble the whole stack tomorrow and make sure that everything is on in the right order and that nothing that shouldn't be there is present.

FYI I put the crown race on and installed all the bits of the headset and everything looks fine. Does anyone have any experience in what might be causing such a noise?

If it makes any difference, I'm using a carbon steer tube and a "problem solvers" expansion plug.


texts:
I never thought I'd be on the receiving end of a catastrophic failure, but I am and I am left with some questions. While reading on Wikipedia I noticed it says a con of magnetic trainers is that they are prone to breaking.

During my training this morning, my trainer failed. And it failed hard. The flywheel shattered/exploded with a sound like a gunshot. A piece of it went through the wall behind my bike, while another shot through the front of my computer (playing a great training video of course). No injuries, but I can't believe this happened! I was in highest gear during a short sprint, so the wheel was moving at a pretty good clip, but I would have thought a trainer could handle that!

The trainer is a Minoura Mag Trainer, not sure on the exact model, but it's a little older.

That said, here are my questions:

In what ways do magnetic trainers commonly fail?
Was there anything I was doing wrong that caused the failure?
Are newer trainers designed better and/or can they accommodate a greater speed?
Would another type of trainer (fluid, wind, etc) failed like this?
Can I get a replacement flywheel?

Here's some pics of the carnage:


texts: Anyone able to ID and provide information about this mountain bike? (DK, Club Roost, FSA)

texts:
I've had this bike for several years but I don't know anything about it. It would be interesting to find out the exact model and see what comes up on the internet about it. Everything is exactly how it was when I came into possession of the bike, with the exception of the gear-shifter and saddle that were both replaced. I also added a basic speedometer and bell.
On the front it has the DK logo and it also says Club Roost on the handlebars. The headset thing says FSA Orbit and the top-cap above is an FSA Conix. On the side of the frame is has a letter that looks like a backwards Z. I believe the wheel size is 26". There are 8 gears in total. Would anyone happen to know specifically what bike this is, and what modifications has it had? I assume the pedals are different to the ones that were included initially.


texts: New steel frame, paint issue -- options?

texts:
I've bought a new chromoly tourer.  It's a very nice bike but I noticed (while on a rather wet ride the other day) a loose flake of paint that fell off when I touched it.  It's on a rack-mounting lug, can only be a fault in the original paint job, and appears to be down to bare metal.

It seems to me that this is a weak spot for rust to set in, and should be sorted out by the manufacturer or dealer.  Would touching it in be as robust as a factory finish if they could come up with some touch-up paint?

It seems silly to treat something that should be easily fixed as a warranty issue, but I don't want a spot that's going to let rust in.  Am I overthinking this?


texts: Front brake won't respond until fully engaged

texts: A bit new to cycling so please pardon my ignorance. All was fine on my bike up until the other day when I engaged the front brake and nothing happened. I had to fully squeeze the brake until it was touching the handlebar before the pads would close. This had never happened before, and the rear brake only needs a small squeeze for the pads to engage. I did squeeze hard on the brake as I was about to miss my turn, but nothing broke or snapped as far as I can see. Please see pictures for the front and rear brakes engaged. Any idea on what has happened?


texts: Tektro Draco hydraulic disc brake not gripping rotor well enough to stop

texts:
I have two Motobecane commuter bikes with Tektro Draco hydraulic brakes. For several years we lived an apartment where the bikes had to hang vertically on a wall which would cause the brakes (particularly the rear ones), to become spongy and have little pressure. Usually taking them off the wall and pumping the brakes several times would create pressure in the brakes such that they would work again and there would be less play in the brake lever. They would typically be fine until they were put back on the wall.

Anyway, have since moved and the bikes are stored level. Started doing maintenance as I want to learn how to maintain my own bikes, particularly the hydraulic brakes.

I gather the last thing that should be done to resolve issues is to bleed the system, so I'm trying to trouble shoot the system. One bike had a ton of play in the brake lever and it would almost touch the handle bar. That was easily fixed by adjusting the screw behind the lever.

The other bike is the one I am having trouble resolving. Basically, the rear brake caliper isn't grabbing the rotor well enough to stop, especially when a +170lbs person is on it. Here are somethings I tired:

The lever was getting pretty close to the handlebar, so figured adjusting that might help, still nothing.
Pumping the brakes no longer works as far as what I perceive to be building up pressure in the brake line.
Check the brake rotor and pads for contamination. The rotor seems fine as there isn't a film on it or anything. The pads were pretty dirty, almost black, and were smooth. Figured that was the issue. Took sand paper to them and still not gripping the rotor well enough to stop.
I've ordered new brake pads which haven't arrived yet and will try to put those on. Tektro says to replace them if <0.5mm. I'd say they still have around 2mm on them. If that is the issue though, it seems like it would mean the calipers aren't getting close enough to one another to grab the rotor, right?
If that is the case, what is the next step? Adding more mineral oil to the system and bleeding it, or is there a way to adjust the calipers so that they are closer to one another when compressed?


texts: Trying to find Derailleur hanger for Triace A310

texts: As you can figure out from a quick google search, this bike almost does not exist. Finding info for this bike has been near impossible. If you can direct me to any info about which hanger I need to replace my broken rear derailleur hanger, that would be awesome.


texts: Can I swap front & back brake levers on Shimano ST-RS685? (hydraulic road disk brakes)

texts:
I have Shimano ST-RS685 hydraulic disk brake set.

I'm used to having front brake lever on the right and rear on the left. (UK).
But this bike has front on the left and rear on the right.

Is it possible to swap them over?

I understand GCN made a video on this:

But in this video the cables have the junctions that you can unscrew and exchange cables quickly. Mine doesn't have this junctions. Is it still possible?

The video mentions "lengthier", does that mean it can be done but the bar-tape has to be removed etc?


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I recently bought a Thule CX2 Chariot with jogging kit. The front wheel tracks to the right.
The jogging kit consists of two aluminium arms, a wheel and a quick release skewer.
When I look at the arms, installed side by side, one side is higher the other.
Any thoughts on how to balance them out?


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I'm from a place where finding a standardized size for tyres bigger than 26 inches is mostly a hassle, to say the least..
But sadly (or not) I have a bike that I've been riding for a while now and have used it enough to wear out the tyres. The stock tyres on the bike were 700×35c. The rims on the bike are, as I mentioned above, 21-622 ETRTO. Now, the tyres that are bigger than 26' that are somewhat widely available around here and are ETRTO 635mm tyres. The confusion looms because, well, both of them are referred to as 28' tyres by more than just a handful of people..
It's simply used for commute on roads I won't particularly describe as best, and I avoid most bad potholes, if that helps.
So, if I'm unable to find 700c or 622mm tyres, it is safe for me to be using the 40-635 tyres without changing the whole wheel? I mean, I can probably find a tire that has a smaller width but a smaller diameter tyre seems to be hard to find around here..


texts: Merida Matts TFS 600 original chain lube

texts: What lubricant does the chain of a Merida TFS 600 bring from its factory?


texts: Which gears combinations shouldn't be used?

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Is there any general rule or recommendation to avoid usage of certain gears combinations (for 2xN and 3xN gears systems)? Do they differ for mtb and road bikes?
I know that it's recommended not to use biggest front chainring with big chainrings on cassette (and opposite) because parts will wear faster and I will loose a bit of pedaling efficiency, but I'm not sure, if I should avoid 2 or 3, or even more biggest (smallest in opposite case) chainrings on cassette.


texts: What is the "3 foot law" and which US states have it?

texts: Some states seem to have something called the 3 foot law to keep cars away from cyclists.  Why 3 feet?  Which states in the USA have it?


texts: Are center lock rotors less likely to rub or resonate while riding than 6-bolt rotors?

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I use 6-bolts hub with 203mm rotor and despite it is well aligned and rub free sometimes when riding (even on flat surface) there is vibrations coming (I guess) from crankset and/or road enough to make rotor resonate a bit. This leads to rubbing against pad in audible manner.
This of course is not welcome, I don't even care so much about wear of the pads/rotor, but the delicate noise coming from rotor.
So I wonder -- is centerlock resonance free? Or maybe not 100% resonate free, but more stable in this regard than 6-bolts?


texts: Mixing 11 speed shifter with 10 speed front derailleur (Shimano)

texts: On my Specialized Rockhopper hardtail I run a Shimano 3x10 drivetrain.  The derailleurs are both XT with the front mech being model number FD-M781.  For an excellent price, I can get a new take off XT front shifter.  However, the model is SL-M8000-L (Left, front, 2/3 speed) and is marketed for 11 speed  systems.  So, with my 10 speed front crankset being Deore FC-M610 42-32-24, can I expect the M8000 front shifter to move the M781 front derailleur smoothly between the chainrings?  I've had excellent luck mixing Shimano 9 & 10 speed mountain front drive components and hope this will be the case here.


texts: What are the alternatives to SwissStop Blue v-brake pads

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We've got a tandem with Rigida Andara CSS tungsten carbide rims and Swisstop Blue v-brake pads. We're happy with the performance and life of both of these over the last 1000 miles.

The problem is that only Swisstop Blue blocks are recommended. I've been led to believe that other blocks will wear out too quickly on tungsten carbide rims, possibly leaving a rubbery deposit on the rims.

I'd like to know of more than one manufacturer or supplier (preferably in the UK) who can provide suitable replacement v-brake block cartridges, so that I have options if the Swisstop ones are unavailable or become expensive. I don't like being tied to a single brand for what should hopefully be quite long-lived rims.

Are there any reasonable alternatives?