texts: Are New York pedestrians allowed to use bike lanes?

texts:
In NYC, some street bike lanes (specifically, one on 8th avenue in midtown) are typically full of walking pedestrians.

Is this legal? (e.g. are the pedestrians doing it actually jaywalking or violating some other law?)

If it is not legal, is there any evidence that NYC enforces this law in any way?


texts: Trying to purchase the correct handlebar faceplate bolt in advance for Schwinn S2713TR

texts:
My son has a Schwinn mountain bicycle and has lost one of the bolts to the faceplate that clamps the handlebar to the stem.

Now I dealing with this by phone, and I'd like to purchase a replacement on my way home.  But a trip home to unscrew the remaining bolt and then go to the hardware store to get a replacement can't really be done in one day before the store's closing.

Is there a standard part that typically used for this application that I can buy on the way home without having a sample to match?

Its a Schwinn Traverse 26 inch mountain bike model S2713TR with two sunken Allen head bolts holding the faceplate, one of which is missing


texts:
I've read Sheldon Brown's page on JIS and ISO and have read exchanges in forums about the pros and cons of using ISO cranks on JIS bottom brackets.

If my understanding is correct, these standards define the shape and dimensions of the BB spindle and thus have implications for the cut  made in the crank that must fit on the spindle.

The reason for my question is that a vendor of ISO cranksets  is telling me that their cranksets will work on an ISO or JIS bottom bracket if the bike is a folding bike.  Does whether the bike folds have anything at all to do with this compatibility between BB and crank?


texts: How to prevent cycling shorts damage from brooks swallow saddle?

texts:
I am new to cycling and I have brooks swallow saddle and pair of cycling shorts. After the ride, I observed that the short's fabric is a bit damaged. This happened at the same place for both shorts. I don't know what exactly is causing this to happen. Can someone please suggest me on how to prevent this?
I also applied saddle cream after buying the saddle. This happened immediately after the first ride with both shorts.
please find image details here -
Castelli -
Gambitt -
saddle image -
EDIT- short full photo - https://imgur.com/C2eDcOX
EDIT - possible reason - https://imgur.com/QFWPNPB


texts:
I bought a new mid-range hybrid bike (Pinnacle Lithium), and for the first couple of weeks it was an absolute pleasure to ride. Then I went on holiday for two weeks, leaving it in a shed in the heat (if it's relevant). When I came back, it felt like the bike has slowed down. I'm pretty sure it did, because I have another bike that I still ride on the same set of gears, whereas with this one, I kind of went down from speed 6 to speed 3-4 at the back on the average ride.

It feels like some mild, but noticeable resistance on both pedalling and the free ride. I've checked that the brakes don't touch the rims, re-lubricated the chain, made sure the tyre pressure is ok - the problem is still there.

Could it be something like overtightened bearings in the rear hub or grease drying up there? Please tell me I'm not just imagining it :)


texts: What are these tools in this bike maintenance toolkit?

texts:
I finally got around to replacing my bike's cassette, and towards that end (and expecting to replace various other consumables in the future) I decided to shell out for a Rose All2gether toolkit:

I'm puzzled by what exactly some of the tools in the kit are, namely: the big wrench below the chain whip, the thing in the upper right corner, the truncated triangle below the cassette tools, and the thing next to it. Also, the small wrench opposite to the chain tool has a 90 degree protrusion at each end.

Here's a close-up of the smaller mystery tools:

The triangular one has channels running through the other side from the corners to the opposite edge, with a circular depression machined out of the other side.

Here's a closeup of the end of the small wrench:


texts: This is a old (replaced by another certificate around 2014; ISO something) certificate for racing bikes given by European Committee of Standardization. (EN 1xxxx for another types). But what does this cert mean? If my bike has this cert, does this mean -my bike is a racing bike- or -my bike has a safety level of racing bikes standards-.


texts:
My cycle seems to have this problem, that whenever I change the gear it starts changing from the second sprocket.

Whenever I start from gear one it starts from the second biggest sprocket, though it goes up to the smallest sprocket (6th one) it doesn’t climb back to the first biggest sprocket ever.

What's the issue with it?

The bike is a new one (~5 months). Since I brought it and I am facing the same issue ever since.

Is it really an issue, or is everything fine?

Thank you.


texts:
I am having trouble removing the axle/skewer from the below MF-ZO15 shimano freewheel.

It is threaded and secured with bolts rather than quick release and the only way I can see to remove it is using a freewheel remover tool. I have a 20mm shimano one that a lot of other threads suggest is the right one but it doesn't fit over the bolt you can see in the photo below that appears to be attached to the axle/skewer itself.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Can a hybrid bike seat be used on a road bike?

texts:
I'm new to road bike riding. At my local bike shop they fitted me for a Bontrager Nebula Plus to replace the stock seat that came with the bike.

The Bontrager website says this seat is designed for hybrid riders. It's hard to tell at this point if my post ride discomfort is from the seat or if I'm still just getting used to ridding. Is a hybrid seat like this suitable to be used on a road bike ?


texts: Chain going "slack" on the 7th gear under load on a new mountain bike?

texts:
I recently bought a new Mountain Bike which works pretty well, aside from the fact that I have a problem with it which creates a pretty damn large safety hazard, not to mention creates a massive headache for me.

I'll be in the 7th gear, and when I start to stand up/put a lot of pressure on the pedals - I'm not really sure how to explain this - it feels like my chain slacks for a moment, and my pedals kind of jerk and then everything goes back to normal for a moment, before going back to slacking again.

This ONLY happens in the 7th gear. It used to happen sometimes in the 6th gear, but I messed around with my H/L screws and barrel adjuster and now it only happens in the 7th gear. I'm not sure what is causing the problem.

Does anyone have some advice for me? I've tried adjusting my barrel adjuster over and over again and I can't seem to narrow it down to being that.

Could it be a problem with the H/L screws?

I REALLY need to figure it out, because right now I pretty much can't use my 7th gear because I'm afraid one of these bad "jerks" will cause me to crash, as I've come close to doing it before.


texts: Why do new road bikes come with handlebar tape attached?

texts:
It appeared to me that typically new bikes are sold with tape already installed on the bars. That is both buying from a local bike store (LBS) or online. (Please correct me if I'm wrong, I have not have had a road bike yet.)

However, it would be quite unlikely that the drop bars of a new bike would fit the new rider. Likewise is it not very likely that the levers are correctly positioned.

Since removing the glue from bars is rather arduous, it is not convenient for dealers to sell or return them. However, looking at advertised bikes, I did not get the impression that the bars are there only as proxies to hold the levers in the store.


texts:
Other than being a custom frame or it was stolen is there a explanation for the frame to be missing the serial numbers?

For instance do they use the same identification marks over seas?


texts: Spokes popping, chains jumping gears while not shifting and derailing when shifting, etc

texts:
I've had the same Trek bike for 3 and a half years with ongoing shifting problems, but for the last 6 months I've had a litany of problems. My LBS is at their wits end.

Spokes are shearing regularly, the chain is jumping gears while not shifting and derailing when shifting, etc. This was going on before replacing anything, and is continuing after the following replacements:

Several spokes replaced
All spokes replaced
All front and back gears replaced
All spokes replaced again with the strongest ones the shop could get
Chain replaced
derailleurs cogs replaced
derailleur replaced
all cables replaced

I've had years of issues with gears not shifting correctly and chains jumping on both this and other bikes, so on that level it could be partially related to the way I'm riding (please advise), BUT this is a whole other level. I put a lot of power into my ride and push hard uphill in hilly terrain, though I'm not sure if or to what extent that would impact this.


texts: I have a Zycom 1st balance bike and I’m trying to put it together with terrible instructions and common sense. Anyway the clamp that is supposed to go around the handle bars’ bar and the front wheel bar doesn’t fit around both. And then the the clamp with a lever doesn’t tighten enough around the seat bar. This was an closed box (never been open) package. How can I solve these issues?


texts: Can I use mountain biking cleats on a road shoe...?

texts:
I have an older pair of road shoes that appear to support both two-hole and three-hole cleat systems.
I've attached a two-hole Shimano mountain bike cleat to them and gone for a very short ride to find the bottom of the shoe is taking a fair bit of damage (perhaps I didn't fasten the cleats firm enough?).
Are these shoes simply not designed for these cleats? Or, should I just tighten them right up and expect a little bit of damage to the shoe?
The shoe is a Specializer Sport.


texts:
I brought my MTB into reputable local bike shop to swap out a worn 5 year old tire.  Front and back had 2.2" tires that were actually 2.2" wide.  Mechanic says he has a new tire of the same kind ("Continental 29 Mountain King 2.2") in stock.  I was thinking to go wider but say ok and ask them to install.  New tire says "2.2" on the side, but installed and inflated it is 1.8" wide and visibly narrower than front.

Are tires sized like lumber, you take 0.5" off from nominal?

It otherwise seems fine, aggressive tread, etc.  Should I care?  Am I over thinking this?  I'm just a fitness XC rider on single track trails in all kinds of weather.


texts: 2x front derailleur shifting adjustment for BB92 shell

texts:
I have a bike with a BB92 Bottom Bracket and would like some input on adjusting the front derailleur to consistently move the chain between the small and big chain rings.

Front derailleur is a top-pull, high mount, SRAM X9 for 2x10 speed that is cabled to SRAM XX Gripshift front shifter. Cable tension is as tight as I can manage for the wonky cable routing and limited space.

Crankset is a Rotor REX 3.2 with ovalized rings (38/26T). Both crank arms were spaced according to Rotor installation instructions and would be physically unable to move any closer inboard due to chainstay clearance concerns.

Chainline looks to be 60mm to the outer chain ring from the centerline of the BB shell.

When attempting to shift from small ring to big; I can apply light force to the inside of the derailleur to complete the shift.

If I don't apply light force; the derailleur will move the chain toward the big ring, but will then only drag across the ramping pins. It physically cannot move any further outboard enough to catch and pull the chain up onto the ring.


texts: Tips for cycling while pregnant, and is it safe?

texts:
To clarify, I am asking this for my wife!

Blog articles and other webpages differ on the question of the safety of pregnant cycling.  Most seem to think that it is okay, but some think that a pregnant woman's balance will become skewed in late pregnancy.  Does anyone have experience or knowledge that would shed light on how concerned we ought to be about that?

Sample of webpages: 1, 2 (there are more but I have insufficient reputation to post them all)

Additionally, does anyone have advice about comfort for pregnant cycling - does it get uncomfortable on a bicycle for a pregnant woman and are there good ways to mitigate against that?  And is the baby well cushioned against vibrations?

Snippets of wisdom as well as full answers appreciated.


texts:
I have a very nice bike that I built from a vintage new steel frame, threadless bottom bracket (because of the french thread in the frame) and 110BCD crankset. It is currently mounted as single speed, and I would like to add a rear derailleur.

The dropout spread is 125mm and the current chainline measurement is 45mm.

I have many questions and try to evaluate the feasibility. I would like to keep as many parts as possible, in particular not change the bottom bracket because of the odd standard (and the fact the thread is in part damaged).

I am contemplating the SRAM 1x solutions, but I don't know if 11 speed compatible wheels will fit the 125mm dropouts.

I suppose I could pick a 9 or 10 speed wheel (would they fit?), and add a 9 or 10 speed rear derailleur, but I am not sure of the chain line that is required.


texts: Can't change M7000 front shifter from 2x into 3x

texts:
I bought exactly this set of shifters, latest SLX model.

I had similar SLX shifters, just the older ones, where the front one had a little button so it was easy to change from 2x to 3x.

Now this new one has nothing on the bottom or at the top, I do not see any kind of hint on the internet, how the hell can I change this shifter to 3x?

Here is all the info Shimano provides, but there is NOT a SINGLE WORD about switching into 3x mode.

This is a hilariously minor problem, which still cause a pretty big trouble to me.


texts: Does my chain need to be replaced because it has looped itself many times?

texts: A snapped off derailleur caused my chain to loop itself so unsure whether it needs replacing.


texts: Fat tire vs regular mountain bike in mud

texts: Looking to see which one is better suited for me. Mid 50's outta shape and heavy and need the exercise. Will be checking cows and fences. This is mostly flat pasture and hay meadows with lots of wallows from hogs tearing it up.Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I have plain ol' v-brakes and I have to tighten them all the time, every three or four weeks. I've been given to understand this is not usual. I'm not sure what's wrong though -- am I hitting them too hard? Could the pads be shot already? How would I know? I usually tighten them at the wheel rather than the handlebars, could this shorten their life?

The bike's about a year old and I ride it a couple miles a day in city traffic.


texts: Do both SH51 and SH56 cleats work with all SPD-compatible pedals?

texts:
This answer mentions that Shimano makes two kinds of SPD cleats, one that allows unidirectional release (SH51) and one multidirectional (SH56).

Are there other differences between the two? Will both types work with all SPD-compatible pedals? Are there reasons to prefer unidirectional release over multidirectional release?


texts: Can anyone help me identify this vintage road frame that has been repainted?


texts: Bicycles riding in pedestrian crosswalks -- Houston

texts:
Should cyclists ride (not walk) their bike through a pedestrian walkway at an intersection?  This may vary by municipality, so I am specifically interested in Houston, although I would be curious about other cities as well.

I've had several close calls as a driver with bikes coming out of nowhere rapidly on the sidewalk and crossing while I was making a turn.


texts: I am trying to find out what the weight limit is on the EZ-1 Super Cruiser.  I have found a used one in great condition, but I am 319 pounds, so do not know if it would be a good option or not.


texts: New disk pads glazing during bed-in procedure

texts:
My bike is equipped with Sram Force Etap AXS and I've been using some BBB pads for quite a while. My bike shop recommended these, stating that they were compatible (and yes, they worked pretty well).
Now I need to change my pads. I've had some spares from the Swiss Stop brand for a while. I understand that this brand is quite good. Earlier this year, I purchased the model Disc 26 E because it's for Avid Elixir/Sram XX (same as my BBB pads). But since the purchase, they have released the Disc 35 E which are designed specifically for my brakes and I intend to purchase these in the future.
I've been trying to set-up the Swiss Stop Disc 26 E for a couple days now. But I have some noise problems which I didn't have with the BBB pads.
I set up the pads while being careful not to contaminate them, and I cleaned the discs using isopropanol. After following the bed-in procedure from sram (brake 20x from 15-20 km/h to walking speed, then brake 10x from 30km/h to walking speed), I noticed that the brakes were squeaking a lot.
After unmounting the pads, I saw this:

The scratch in the middle appears to be glazing because it's very shiny. I'm a bit surprised because I've heated my BBB pads a lot more and didn't observe any glazing.
I then sanded the pads to recover their original green-ish color.

I tried new bed-in procedures/sanding several times with the same results.
Does anyone has ever observed anything like that? Any tip how to fix this?
Thanks a lot!


texts: Measuring tension in double butted spokes

texts:
I'm building a wheel with double butted spokes, 2.0 mm at the ends, 1.8 mm in the center. The Park Tool Spoke Tension Meter has a conversion sheet to determine the tension in spokes of different diameters. My question is which scale to use: 2.0 mm or 1.8 mm.

Logically, I think that I should use the 1.8 conversion, because the center of the spoke is 1.8 mm diameter. But the entire length of the measured section is probably not 1.8 mm, because it is tapering to 2.0 mm at the ends.

The answer to this question suggests there is some acceptable variation, so I was thinking about aiming for somewhere in between.


texts:
my rear wheel has a constant bump whenever I ride . I've done all that came to mind at firs. Deflated and checked the tire  , checked the axel for bends , checked the ball bearings , made shure the break is not rubbing and that the wheel is properly tightened on the frame .

One thing I did notice is that when I spin it in my hand I can feel the ball barings sort of lightly scratching with the axel ? I know that can be a problem for them but could that also cause that constant bump ? Any solution you have would be welcomed to check out .


texts: Is cycling in the Netherlands without a helmet safer than cycling with a helmet in the USA?

texts:
We moved to Netherlands and no one seems to wear a helmet. My teenage child did have a helmet but said she lost it. When my wife wanted buy her a new helmet, my daughter said she will refuse to wear it. This ended up in some family drama between them.

My daughter ended up saying that it is safer to cycle without a helmet in the Netherlands, then with a helmet in USA. To end the crisis, we agreed that she does not have to wear a helmet if this is true. (My wife expects it to be false) But I am not sure, as I read once that the safety of a helmet is generally overestimated (and there is also some risk-compensation). Hence my question is:

Is it true that cycling in the Netherlands without a helmet is safer, then cycling with a helmet in the USA?

Apart from that my daughter claimed that the health befits of cycling outweigh the risk by far. Is this true?

Please give scientific evidence if possible.


texts: Shimano GRX parts compatibility with XT or XTR FD on Salsa Fargo. (BSA73)

texts:
I am building a bike on Salsa Fargo TI 2019 frameset (ordered). It has BSA73 bottom bracket.

My current plan for the 2x11 drivetrain looks like this:

Crankset: Race Face Turbine 26/36 (Boost)
Bottom bracket - Chris King ThreadFit 30 + Chris King Fit Kit #21 (Wide)

148 BOOST rear wheel (DT350)

ST-RX810-R - SHIMANO GRX Hydraulic Disc Brake DUAL CONTROL LEVER 11-speed

ST-RX810-L - SHIMANO GRX Hydraulic Disc Brake DUAL CONTROL LEVER 2x11-speed

RD-RX812 - SHIMANO GRX Rear Derailleur 11-speed (42T max low sprocket)

CS-M8000 - SHIMANO DEORE XT 11-Speed MTB Cassette Sprocket 11-42

Problem Solvers for the Boost crankset - Salsa FS1328 [thanks thl33ter]

Salsa has Fargo Tiagra frameset with the same size front chainrings that paired with Deore FD driven by Tiagra 4700 levers.

I'm not sure if I can mount Shimano XT or XTR Front derailleur here; and will it be compatible with GRX lever and rear derailleur? What possible model should I choose to mount it on the frame properly (is it DirectMount)?
The brand does not matter, it can be SRAM or other compatible. But the part quality is quite important (something like XT and up for Shimano)

Added this a little blurry picture I found on mtbr. Hope this will help.


texts:
I bought Nickel Anti-Seize to prevent any corrosion issues between metals, and I generally like using it on my vehicles on bolts and anything I plan on removing later. I'm wondering where it would be appropriate for me to use Anti-Seize instead of grease on my bicycle, and where it would be considered a 'no-no.' The nickel type is very corrosion resistant, and temperature resistant to 2400 degrees.

My current thinking would be along these lines:

Desirable

Threaded Headset
Bottom Bracket Threads
Lightly on seatpost?
Cantilever brake mounts
Disc brake pivot points?
Threads on QR skewers / seatpost clamp
Other bolt threads

Maybe ???

Headset Bearings ???
Bottom Bracket Bearings ???
Hub Bearings ???
Inside fork tubes ??? (I have prothane grease because I have elastomers, but perhaps in spring forks it might be ok)
Chain (probably a bad idea, chain lube seems specially formulated and much thinner)
Spoke nipples (need loctite or nipple prep in this case, don't want the nipples to loosen)

Basically what I'm really asking here is, can I use it like grease in my hubs, bottom bracket, and headset? It doesn't really harden, and is rather lubricative, so what would happen?

Nickel Anti-Seize Data Sheet: .pdf


texts: Is it ok to sit on the top tube of my Cannondale CAAD12 (2017 model)?

texts: I just picked up my new Cannondale CAAD12 bike the other day. During my first ride I occasionally was sitting on the top tube (waiting for traffic lights etc). After the ride was over I actually realised this might be bad for the frame and I started to worry, especially because the CAAD12 frames are so light considering they are made from aluminium. Any ideas if sitting on the top tube of a lightweight alu bike like the CAAD12 is a no-no? I inspected the frame and it seems ok though, but I am not an expert. My weight is around 170 lbs.


texts:
The general advice about cornering is to lean the bike, not the body, to put pressure on the outside foot, and not to brake or brake only with the rear brake if absolutely needed.

Well, does this advice hold for snowy terrain?

Today is my second day riding in snow this winter and still have the feeling that if I lean the bike, it will simply slide out under me. The tires are Schwalbe Land Cruiser. So I actually lean my body, keeping the bike as straight as possible through the turns. Exactly opposite to the general advice.

I am talking about 10km/h riding, and I already managed to fall a couple of times (luckily at those speeds falls are harmless, when outside traffic).

"On snow" for the purpose of this answer means autumn leaves, over which there are several cm of frozen, hard or melting snow.

I am fortunate that 1/3 of my commute is through a non-paved park, where I can practice funny things without the danger of being hit by a car. There are even some small (30cm) and other not so small ramps, but I haven't summoned the courage to jump those ... yet.


texts: Changing the rear wheel offset to allow space for freewheel

texts:
I've had some new wheels built for a steel frame with a 126mm rear dropout spacing. The rear hub takes a 7 speed screw-on freewheel. At the moment the rim sits perfectly central to the chainstays when the axle is pushed to the back of the horizontal dropouts on both sides. However, I've discovered that there isn't enough room for the chain on the highest (14 tooth) gear because it is too close to the chainstays.

What would be the consequence of adjusting the wheel away from the frame on the drive side (about 3mm should do it) by adding washers on the drive side and removing them on the opposite side of the axle?

Could offsetting the wheel in this way affect braking? Is it likely to be detrimental to the chainline? Would it be advisable to use adjustment screws in the dropouts to make sure the front edge of the rear rim continues to be centred between the chainstays?

Any advice would be much appreciated!


texts: Will a 60cm seat tube bike fit a 5"11 male adult?

texts:
I got my eyes on this Raleigh:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-RALEIGH-WINNER-ROAD-BIKE-LOOK/352239962812?hash=item5203234abc:g:7YkAAOSwJH1ZLcwa

Yes it's a little expensive but I like the blue and white frame.

Am 5'11", is this going to be a good fit for me?

The seller said its frame size is 60cm measured from bottom bracket to top of seat tube.

Am a little confused because I was told a while back that measurement isn't necessarily the frame size. Is this true?


texts: Winter riding: Is it safe to ride on a BSO/cheap bike at temperatures below -15°C on icy or damp roads?

texts:
OK so I'm new to cycling and only own a road bike but I've been told that it's not suitable to ride in the winter in Canada. Winter here goes from -15°C to -35°C and there's plenty of ice and snow.

The only other spare bike I have is a BSO my parents bought for my birthday 2 years ago and I really want to keep cycling as a mean of commuting even in winter. I'll be mostly riding on flats for that matter and my average speed on my BSO in summer is 20km/h. (For a 15km trip)


texts: I'd like to fit a suspension seatpost but have only 9 cm between saddle and frame - is this enough?

texts: I'm 5'3" tall and ride an XS size gravel bike. I have only 9 cm of seatpost between the saddle and the frame, and you can see there's no possibility of extending that! I find the aluminium frame quite harsh and would like to swap my normal seatpost for a suspension one. Is 9 cm enough room for this to work?


texts: What happens if you neglect front suspension maintanance?

texts:
My bike has front suspension, which I have never done any maintenance to, and I don't plan to do so in the future either. I've owned it for 10 years now, and it's kinda stiff by now, but other than that, no problems. I don't really need the suspension since I don't off-road - I just want it to hold up and not leak any oil. Will a fork with suspension do that without maintenance?
The fork in question is Suntour NEX 4610 V2.


texts: Tightened the bolts on the bottom of my suspension fork -- What now?

texts: So... a few hours ago I did a bolt check on my bike. As I was about finished I checked the 2 bolts on the bottom of each of the fork's legs. They were kinda easy to tighten so I said to myself go for it without even thinking about it. I did about 1/4 or half a turn and then the bolt started to turn with almost no force both clock and counter-clock-wise. When I push into it's not as smooth. It almost feels like parts are rubbing? Not sure how to explain it. I cant find the model of the fork but the bike is a 2016 ideal zigzag 27"5. It only says SRT on it. If any of you can help in any way that would be great thanks.


texts: Child seat: how to protect my child's face from rain and wind?

texts:
I edited this question more than any of my questions before, please feel free to view old versions. The overhaul of the question was approved in principle by a moderator. I did also add an answer with one other solution I thought about, but that is still only a concept and I would love some opinions.
Objective
I am looking for a way to protect my child's face from rain and wind while in a child bike seat. I'm not a scientist but she gets cold easily and my parental instinct is that even partial cover/protection of the face would reduce wind-chill noticeably. It's for getting my child to school, just a steady 15-20 minute ride but we live in England.
There seem to be no purpose-made products readily available on the market (except from an amazon seller who doesn't look trustworthy). And product recommendation is, controversially to say the least, not allowed on stack exchange (but I'd love a link if they exist).
First thing I could think of
Convert a Rain cover from a "rucksack" child carrier to attach it to a bike seat

Has anyone ever done this? I would like to minimize damage/modification to either product. How can I attach one to another? Do I need to 3d print some fittings?
Factors I need to balance
Usability, breathability, crashworthiness, constructability, wind resistance (from being blown away or into child's face), entanglement ...
Options discarded
Naturally one way would be to use a trailer but I am very reluctant to do this:

I don't really have room to store it,
there are chicanes on our route to deter mopeds/motorcycles etc.

My child is too big for a Thule RideAlong Mini Windscreen - it's a product intended for a seat for smaller children, sat between the rider's arms.
Any other alternative ideas will be welcome.


texts:
I'm having Ralson 26*1.95 Tyre with tube....
I have heard that tubes burst due to friction at high speed.
Can I use it for travelling a distance of about 200 Km continuously and slowly??


texts: Raleigh Twenty wheel/rim replacement options

texts:
What replacement wheels/rims that can be fitted into Raleigh Twenty bike are available these days?

Below I focus my requirements on the rims as they are probably easier to come by than complete wheels but if there are new wheels available then I'd love to know the vendor/manufacturer.

Ideally I would like not to modify anything and stick with 20" × 1-3/8" size with 28 spokes taking ISO 35-451 tyres if such option exists at all.

The next acceptable option would be same size with 36 spokes which would require replacing the hubs (which I hope can be obtained more easily).

Yet another possibility is any other wheel size that would fit the bike without modifications (with the exception of the hubs).

The least acceptable option would be a solution requiring mudguards removal, front fork replacement, brakes change etc. However, out of curiosity I would be happy to see what more drastic routes can be followed.


texts: What effect does head tube angle have on a bicycle?

texts:
My girlfriend and I are looking at a new bike for her. The one we're looking at has a 70 degree head tube angle while her current bike has a 70.5 degree head tube angle. Unfortunately, none of the local shops has one in stock for her to try out. So my question is:

How much does the head tube angle affect the fit and feel of a bicycle? I'm sure that it has at least some effect over the fit of the bicycle, but how much? And I'm guessing it has an even bigger effect on the steering, but again, how much?


texts:
I have a Cube LTD CC (2009 model) which has this semi-integrated headset in it. It needs replacing, but I'd rather go for something with cartridge bearings instead of cage bearings.

I've been looking around on the Cane Creek website trying to work out what might be compatible but don't know the measurements (don't really want to dismantle the headset if I can avoid it). Seems I need a ZS headset of some sort, but that's all I know. What are my options here?


texts: Tyre liner causing a slow puncture -- am I doing something stupid

texts:
On a beater bike I've got (25 year old Raleigh MTB) I run tyre liners because I had spare tyres and was too cheap to buy good anti-puncture ones.  They do their job quite well -- I've just picked broken glass out that had gone through the tread but stopped at the liner.

But the reason I found the broken glass was that I had a flat.  I knew the tyre was a bit soft but over the weekend it went right down.  On inspection I saw this on the outside of the tube:

That curve matches the end of the liner, and with enough air in the tube I could feel it leaking.

The liner doesn't feel like it has a rough edge (we'll find out because I left the liner in with a new tube), and it's been running fine for over a year.  This would appear to defeat the point of liners, so am I missing something?  Does too high pressure cause this? Too low?


texts:
I have a Ti frame.

Alloy M5 bolts (they were greased) not working too well for me for holding the bottle cages - one seized / broke off, and I lost the boss/insert (?) when a mechanic drilled out the sheared-off bolt.

I understand that a light or medium loctite usually performs better than grease

However, are there any special considerations using Ti M5 bolts? (since in a moment of extravagance I have bought some, and currently awaiting delivery)


texts: JC Higgins girls bike. Trying to identify year of manufacture

texts: I have a JC Higgins girls bike (flightliner ??) with the serial number 502 45390 185598 that I'm trying to identify the model year. Any help?


texts:
I've been thinking about getting a trainer for my M5 CHR. Wahoo Kickr seemms nice, but they do not recommend it for use with recumbent bikes.
Is it just because they lack the experience or would it be bad for any particular reason?

Anyone got good experience with other trainers for their recumbent bikes?
(Preferably zwift compatible)


texts:
I'm restoring a Bianchi Sprint (~1975).

It has a cottered crankset/bb. I was originally planning on replacing them, because we all know that cottered cranksets are junk, right? Well, they have a great Q-factor and the rings I want (52-42, because it's got DT shifters), so I'm looking at trying to make them work.

I know cottered cranks are gone now because square taper is a better, lower maintenance, more foolproof system. But that doesn't mean that cottered cranks can't work well, right?

Is it going to be an ongoing nightmare trying to keep these cranks working smoothly and silently? This bike would be used heavily (~100 miles/week).


texts: How much do spokes stretch when first used?

texts:
I built a wheel for the first time recently, so I checked it after a few hundred km. The spokes seemed to all have lower tension (by pitch) than when I built the wheel. I tightened them all about 1/4 turn (except one  that needed more) and had to slightly retrue one section of the wheel.

I assume this even loosening was due to the spokes stretching, but do they stretch significantly after the wheel is trued? Should I build it to a slightly higher tension/pitch than I expect to run long term?


texts: Community Wiki: Which public transport networks allow you to transport a bike?

texts:
In the UK I have never seen a public bus system that allows you to take a (non-folding) bike on the bus. (There are long distance coaches that do allow bikes, however I am asking about local busses.)

I know that some other places have buses with bike racks.

Where are the buses that have bike racks?
How common is it for buses to have bike racks?

In summary:

On some UK buses you may be able to put a single bike in the wheelchair space, ask the driver nicely.

In the US there seems to be lots of buses with bike racks on the front or back.  Mostly these racks can take no more than two bikes.  I was not expecting the land of the car too have better provision then the UK!

No where can you depend on being able to put your bike on a bus (due to lack of space).


texts:
I've just bought a pair of Kenda Klondike tires (26*2.1). I've heard that I have to ride about 50-100 kilometers without fast turns and so on - to make spikes to "sit" firmly into the tire.
So I've made my commute slowly.

Is that true? And if it is - how can I determine that this break in is done?


texts: What would I gain by upgrading a norco vfr 2 hybrid bike group set to tiagra or 105 shimano group set

texts: What would I gain by upgrading a norco vfr 2 hybrid bike group set from alivio 9*3 speed to a tiagra or 105 shimano group set? Are there any things to consider or look out for?


texts:
After finding out my bike has a road rear (130 mm) & disc brakes, it's been difficult to source rear hubs.  Cyclocross allows disc brakes, and more commuter/cx frames are appearing but all seem to use the 135 mm spacing...  Chris King's Universal Disc rear tandem has a 130 mm option, but as a two piece axle?

Could someone explain the difference, and provide pros/cons?


texts: I want to replace my rear derailleur shown in the photo above. I don't know what kind it is and and I was hoping someone could tell me which cage it is?


texts: Hard fork and low tire pressure or viceversa?

texts:
With mountain bikes, what do you think is more efficient: highly preloading the fork and using low tire pressure or having a "bouncy" fork and hard tire pressure?

I like to have the fork with quite a high pre-load and then I set my front tire to around 1.8-2.0 Bar (around 25-30 PSI). I think this gives me good response on the fork, not wasting much energy and also gives me good control on technical zones, specially descending. I sholuld also mention that my fork (Rock Shox Tora 302) has remote lockout which I mostly use in asphalt and technically-easy zones. Bike frame is made of aluminum.

On the other hand, I see some of my colleagues having soft forks, which IMHO bounce quite a lot, and they say they inflate their tires to almost maximum pressure possible.

Also, to what extent is rebound control important here? I like it to be more absorving than bouncing.


texts: Is it normal for brake pads to emit an odor?

texts:
Not a duplicate of this one I think, circumstances are different.

My bike has rim brakes. The last two day I have cycled on snowy ground, and at the end of the rides the brake pads where covered in dirty snow.

Now I have noticed that when I use the rear brakes, I immediately smell a peculiar odor, even with light braking like the last 10 meters before a traffic light. The closest odor I can relate to it is the one of a used rifle shell few days after it was shot.

Is this normal?


texts:
I am doing a solo, unsupported 2 day charity ride, covering 260 miles in total. I am not taking any panniers or backpack, the only things im taking will fit in my saddlebag and my jersey pockets.

The ride isn't an even split with the first day a mammoth (to me) 170 miles, though relatively flat ~1,700m climbing.

I have ridden 100 miles many times and have fueled myself sufficiently through pre ride eating and gels, snacks and drinks on the ride.

I am also not worried about the post ride nutrition as have done this many times as well.

The thing I am unsure on is this:

170 miles is just under 70 miles further than I have ever ridden in one go.

I know I can go just over 100 miles in about 6 hours without any issues on gels and snacks. I have a brand that I know doesn't cause me any stomach upset eating ~ 3 gels an hour for this time period.

I am estimating 170 miles will take me somewhere between 10 and 12 hours to complete.

Would I be stupid to try to complete this on gels & snacks alone? bearing in mind I'd have to carry somewhere close to 30 gels etc.

Should I try to find a place to stop and eat a proper meal? and if so what type of things should I try to eat?

I would assume carbs, rice or pasta but not too much, would any protein be good too? Fat & bread that sit on the stomach would be a big no no I assume.

I was thinking about 90 miles into the first day so after about 6 hours, this puts me just over half way through the day and the area im looking at is on a big stretch between castles (im visiting 32 castles as the basis for the charity challenge)


texts:
Not so long ago I put a new PYC SP1101 chain on my bike, but several rides in I managed to snap the rear derailleur off, which also bent a bunch of chain links. No way I'm throwing a perfectly good, albeit now shorter than needed chain away, so I decided to replace the bent section with leftovers lying around. The chain has hollow pins, so I can't just pop one out and push it back, that only leaves master links to connect the fragments, which I should have three of (all are the same, included with PYC SP1101).

Are there any potential downsides to multiple master links to be aware of?


texts: Dropper seatpost oscillating - relation to rear shock

texts:
I have a full suspended bike with a dropper seat post :

I had a dubious setup of my saddle and of the seat post at the blue circles, that I solved, but now when I ride on flat, with the coil of my shock set up quite rigidely (to ride on road) the dropper seatpost oscillates, in the plane of the bike, from front to back, exactely at the red circled region, on which I have no power.

Do you think the dropper seatpost is damaged or ? Other question : could this front to back oscillation damage the rear shock as it make it work more that if there woudnl't be any oscillation in the red region ?

Remark : the dropper seatpost is a KINDSHOCK LEV INTEGRA, 31.6 mm, 150 mm.


texts: what is the biggest chainring I can put on my mountain bike?

texts:
I am going to do a 'gravel grind' ride with lots of elevation gain and want to be able to keep up with the cyclocross bike riders. From what I understand they have 46/36 chainrings.
My mountain bike came with 36/22 rings. 104/64 bcd crank. 10 speed cassette. I would like to run a 44/30 or 42/28. Does a 44 or 42 tooth 104bcd chainring exist that fits a 2x (and not 3x) crank?
My bike is a specialized crave. I would put on a 40t chainring or consider going to a triple crank.
Or could I put a road crankset on? My bottom bracket is 73mm gxp.


texts: How to fit 10 speed cassette on this hub

texts:
I bought a pair of Mach 1 wheels from PlanetX that said the hub was compatible with Shimano 8/9/10 speed. When I tried to install my 10 speed Tiagra 4700 cassette it doesn't seem to go down far enough on the hub. PlanetX just said if it doesn't fit you can return it but should it not fit? It looks like it should but maybe I'm missing something?

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPMNEOD/mach-1-neo-disc-rims-on-6-bolt-9mm-quick-release-28-hole-disc-hubs


texts:
The rim tape on the rear wheel has blown out a couple of times in the same spot. Luckily, while parked. Is there an issue with the rim that needs to be fixed? What can be done to avoid the problem from reoccurring?
The wheel is a Giant SR2. Always run at 100psi, the recommended PSI range is 85-115. The first time it blew it was tubeless. After that it has been run with inner tubes.
The only puncture of the inner tube is at the spoke hole that has lost its rim tape.


texts:
I have a new bike, probably a month old, which has Hayes cx 5 disc brakes.  I've noticed that the front brake pad is making a grinding sound when I brake at low to moderate speeds. What could be causing this? The pads that come with these brakes are Semi-Metallic.

The rotor bolts are all tight, there is no pad rub when coasting, and the bolts connecting the brake to the fork are tight.


texts: How to lubricate my double kickstand? (ursus jumbo)

texts:
It used to move real smooth but not anymore. There's this plastic cover that says 'remove to lubricate', but underneath it I don't find access to the hinge mechanism. I'm thinking of just putting some general purpose grease in the hinge, see second picture.
Couldn't find info on this on the Ursus website, also their support didn't answer me.


texts: Can you use slime (brand) auto tire "tubeless" sealant for a bicycle tube?

texts:
I'm used to using slime in my tubed tires, the bicycle sealant kind with the "red trim":

but I noticed some "prevent and repair flat tires tire sealant, all tubeless tires" blue trim tire sealant, offered in a larger size, so cheaper.

It says in the description that it seals "even larger" holes.  But doesn't mention bicycles.  Or tubes.  But does mention tubeless.

Can I use the blue trim "tire sealant" in standard bicycle tubes?

Couldn't seem to find an answer to this exact question, or on the slime website.


texts: Trimming Shimano FD-R3000 front derailleur

texts:
My front derailleur is a Shimano FD-R3000. I have been trying to adjust it following the ParkTool video at

Basically it seems to be working OK now: the chain is not falling off the front chain wheels, and is shifting quickly to and from both the big and small chain wheel.

My question is really about trimming. On the large chain wheel at the front and the smallest two or three cogs at the back, the chain rubs against the front derailleur. (I have nine cogs at the back.) I understand that I can press lightly on the left hand shifter to trim - this removes the noise.

Then I move to the small chain wheel at the front. There is no noise when in combination with any of the rear cogs, except perhaps when I'm on the largest cog at the back. What is unexpected is that when I click lightly on the shifter now, the front derailleur cage moves - further inboard.

Is there supposed to be trimming on the small cogwheel at all with this front derailleur? And if so, is the low trim position really supposed to be inboard relative to the low position?

I am rather new to road cycling, so hopefully my question is not completely stupid!


texts:
Is it possible to put a rigid fork onto a 120mm travel hardtail without upsetting the handling?

I used to ride a Kona P2 fork on a 96 AA frame, which I suppose was designed for a max. of 100 mm travel and that worked fine.

I have to get a new frame, am eying up some rigid ti frames but the ones I like a designed for 120 mm travel, so I am a bit lost.


texts: Metal sheet inside bottom bracket on frame: can I remove it?

texts:
I have an old frame (60's vintage), into which I'm trying to install a modern sealed cartridge bottom bracket.

I've got a bog-standard Shimano BB-UN55 with diameter 68mm, which should fit the frame. Indeed, if you hold the cartridge up against the bottom of the shell on the frame, it's definitely the right size (phew).

However, I can't actually screw in the cartridge to install it. It turns out this is because there is a sort of wrapped around metal sheet inside the shell, which starts about 12mm (1/2"?) in on each side and the Shimano cartridge only gets narrow in the middle about 17mm from each end.

I assume this sheet is just to stop grot falling into the non-sealed bottom bracket from the frame tubes and I can probably pry it out with a screwdriver or similar, but wanted to check: should this be there for some other reason?

Thanks!


texts: What can cause disc brakes not to react after keeping/moving the bike upright, then recover?

texts:
Recently, I experienced a strange situation with the Tektro hydro disc brakes on my hybrid bike (would the model be helpful here?):

I carried it upstairs at a friend's place, and later moved it downstairs by holding it upright and slowly pushing it downwards. When I started riding home, I noticed that the rear brake almost didn't react to any pull, I was able to pull the lever with minimum resistance until it almost hit the bar. I felt almost(?) no braking action. A few minutes into the ride, the brake fully recovered to the normal amount of resistance/braking force.

What happened here? What might cause such a behaviour? Could it be the bumpy ride down the stairs?

I never experienced fading on that brake so far, from the description it sounds very similar, though the brake was completely cool at the start of the ride.


texts: Tire size compatibility, 700x35c or 700x38c for original size 700x37c

texts:
I own this bike : speed 2012 ridgeback

The tires are worn out and I have decided to buy schwalbe marathon plus (since I often had flat tire due to broken glass on bicycle paths in my town)

The original tires are Continental Contact 700×37c.

Which size of the schwalbe should I choose :

37-622 28x1.40, 700x35C SmartGuard, or
40-622 28x1.50, 700x38C SmartGuard

I found the sizes on the schwalbe Bike Catalogue


texts: Finding better routes than bicycle apps suggest

texts:
Nowadays there are many cycling apps like Strava, etc. One useful feature of them is giving the shortest or lowest altitude change route between point A and B. Although they have that lowest altitude change, some of these routes are definitely not easy to climb up.

For example, from my house to shopping mall, there are 2 routes, one is suggested by Strava and the other one is mine as well as any citizen of my town would suggest.

Route 1. Climb %8 hill until reach the shopping mall.

Route 2. Climb %15 very short hill, then ride downhill a parallel way to Route 1, then climb very short %15 hill and you reach your destination.

Definitely it is easier to ride Route 2 and also it does not need so much physical condition since it does not always climbs. My main point in here is that it seems easier to climb a high slope for a short period of time and drive downwards to recover.

My question : is there any apps that can create routes like Route 2?


texts: Might biking lower forehead temp readings at destination?

texts:
I often bike to work at a place that screens all who enter for fever. Lately this has been done with a no-touch forehead thing, presumably an IR gadget. When I bike, even if it is cold enough that I wish I'd worn full-finger gloves, the final uphill makes me sweat, yet even so I consistently arrive with my forehead so cool that the gadget gives a number in the 92° Fahrenheit (33°C) range, or more often just refuses to give any number at all. When I make the trip by car, by contrast, it consistently gives more normal readings of 94.7° fahrenheit (35°C)
As a 65-year-old male on a beta blocker, I expect my body to run a little cooler than average, but 92°F (33°C)  or lower for a forehead reading seems extreme. It's as if the biking itself is somehow an additional cooling factor. Could this be? Have others found this, now that "temping in" is grown so common?
I get that evaporative cooling with sweat is peculiarly effective for the cyclist, thanks to the air flow, and that the forehead is a prime site for it; but it hardly seems like that should make the forehead peculiarly cool, since (with apologies to Shakespeare) the blood is hot that must be cooled by this. (By analogy, the fins on a motorcycle engine also exploit air flow for cooling; but one hardly expects them to be cool to the touch after a long uphill has put their cooling capacity to the test.)


texts: Ancheer electric mountain bike cuts out under load

texts:
My year-old 250W Ancheer electric mountain bike currently has an issue. When going up hills, the motor is put under a lot of load and the battery turns off. It remains off until reset by toggling the on/off switch of the battery. The bike is able to go longer without cutting out when the battery is fully charged, and this problem worsens with use.

To diagnose the problem, I've used a multimeter on the battery while going up a steep hill. It begins at 40V 14A and cuts out at 31V 7A. I believe the issue is with the motor drawing too much power (~560W at the start), resulting in the battery (which is not designed to output that much power) dropping in voltage and cutting out. I've rode this bike for a year and the motor has slowly gotten weaker over time, now being too weak to climb steep hills on its own.

An I correct? Is this an issue with the motor or could it be something else?


texts: Why does my bike constantly break/need servicing?

texts:
I only cycle about 4 miles per day, on roads and paths, which although a little bumpy in places, I'm not off roading.  I'm finding something is breaking or coming loose on my bike after only a couple of weeks or less after servicing it, and I'm having to take it back to the shop every couple of months.
I'd specifically asked for a bike that wouldn't require much maintenance and on questioning the shop I've since been told that ANY bike I bought would be the same, but I just don't really believe them.  People must be able to do 100+ miles without problems regularly surely?
The bike they sold me is a Claud Butler Windermere, which was way lower in price than I was prepared to pay (I was prepared to pay more specifically because I wanted to get something low maintenance that I didn't have to think about).  I also know/knew next to nothing about bikes.
In the 18 months I've had it

Bottom bracket worked loose twice (so it makes a clunking noise), once just 2 weeks after a service
Rear (metal) mud guard cracked through
Chain gaurd cracked through
Pedals loose, broken and replaced with metal ones
Pedal arm thing loose
Rear wheel loose (although they admitted that was their mistake??)
Mud guard bolts dropped out
Handle bars loose 3x
1x puncture
Saddle loose
Gears mis-aligned almost constantly (just make do with what happens to work)
Front break squeals almost constantly (fixed for about a day after service)
One set of rear pads worn, breaks need frequent adjusting, often "stick" on one side.

I have done less than 2000 miles so far, and it hasn't had any impacts - this breaks/cracks have all just come from vibration from riding.
My bike shop has simply told me "no there is nothing they can do in a service to stop these things happening, even the next day, it's just random" and "no you can't buy a bike that is better for any price, so there is no point replacing it".  I don't have access to many bike shops to shop around.  Are they fibbing?
My ideal would be to be servicing it about twice a year.  Is that just unrealistic?
edit
Just add some details on the roughness of the ride, as I may be a tad rough based on some answers.
I'm about 65kg but also impatient so tend to cycle quite quickly (in a non athletic sense). Top speeds 20-25mph on flatish.
There are three cobbled speed bumps on the route (i do slow down)
There is a short steep hill, which i just keep in highest gear (middle at front, smallest at back) and power through (160m long 12m rise).  I don't really use the front gear.
This is the uk so plenty of rain.
At home it lives in the garage. During day in a covered bike rack.
Edit
Just to add closure to this in case anyone is interested as it has been a few years now.  I followed the advice and switched bike shop AND bought a new bike - more expensive Raleigh Strada 5.  Totally different experience with this bike and shop - reliable and no comparable problems.  The new bike shop gave the old bike a good going over and it is now my back up bike - it is clearly nothing like the same quality as the new bike, but none of the alarming problems since switching shops.  It does go to show that even as just a commuter rather than a bike enthusiast, there can still be a big difference paying a little bit more.


texts: Back wheel rubs against the back brake pad when riding

texts: My aging 26" Nishiki 10 speed is still a great bike and ride and well maintained. 25yr warranty ended in 2009. I am 6'7" and 280lbs now and was 250lbs when I purchased it. For some strange reason now when I ride the back wheel pronates over left and rubs against the back brake pad and the fork. The moment I get off it's okay. What gives??? Has anyone had an issue like this?


texts: Switching from 118 link chain to 114 link chain - problematic or no big deal?

texts:
My (trekking) bike has 9 gears (9 sprocket wheels at the rear wheel / Shimano Acera). I just wanted to replace sprocket and chain. I correctly bought a 9-speed chain but the length is wrong. My old chain has 118 links and the newly bought chain 114 links.
There are two reasons why I'm wondering whether I can still use the 114 link chain on my bike:

because I have it already
because 118 link 9-speed chains seem to be in short supply

So, what happens if I just put the 114-link chain on the bike? I assume this will make it necessary to readjust the gearing. Or is this not possible at all?
What are my options?

Bonus question: is there a qualitative difference between 114 and 118 links? Or is it just a different length and that's it?


texts: I want a bolt on crank, but dunno what terminology to use to find one

texts:
I want to place a crank on a bike at a different location than the one the bike is originally located.
This is similar to what i want to do, this is an addon crank for a smaller person to pedal with a tandem bike sold as a kit. But the link is 404.

I want to buy this piece (black piece) it's a crank that can be bolted on but "bolt on crank" in google result in anything but. The image was found on Pinterest so that doesn't help me in finding this part.


texts: Choosing the proper bearings for replacement

texts:
Hub and wheel bearings: Xero 6902 and 6903 LBLU. I can find 6902 and 6903 bearings, usually 2RS, but I can't find that brand (Xero) and type LBLU (what does it mean?).

Can I safely replace these bearings with others the same size (6902 and 6903) but different brand and type (2RS instead of LBLU), and expect the same performance and compatibility/suitability, provided they are equivalent in quality? In other words: is any 6902/6903 bearing good enough?

I'm aware that there is a whole science about bearings, with concepts like tolerance and standards like ABEC. It seems to me that bearings for bicycles are usually ABEC 3. But I am afraid that maybe hubs and wheels manufactures choose the bearings that for some reason perfectly fit their components. Or maybe it has nothing to do and all I have to care about is choosing the right measurement.

This is one of the bearings disassembled, which will not be reused:


texts:
My bleed screw has become damaged and I need a new one. My shifter is Shimano R8070 which according to the spec, the part number should be Y00898030, the screw turned up but it is too small, as in the thread is too narrow, please can anyone identify the larger size screw part number ?
The original is on the left, the new one on the right.

EDIT: 0
Sorry, the part number I ordered which is too small is Y00698030. The one I removed was a 2mm hex key which I had to drill out.
My bike is is 2018 Cannondale Synapse Di2.
Still struggling to identify the right part.


texts: How do I obtain a duplicate bike key for my kryptonite U lock?

texts:
I want a duplicate key for my Kryptonite U-lock. I have the key number.

Where can I order an additional key that will work?


texts: What can/would you upgrade a SRAM GXP BB to?

texts: Have a SRAM GXP BB (68mm BSA) with some SRAM Apex 1 cranks. The driveside bearing is shot (which is ridiculous considering the bike's a year old, barely rolling around). Most people say it's not even worth trying to replace the bearings. I could just get another of the same type but I'd prefer to get something better. What would be a good upgrade to this BB? by upgrade I mean better quality bearings that last longer, more easily user replaceable if possible.


texts: Help! Want to convert 8 speed Kona road bike to 1x drivetrain

texts:
I currently have a 2015 Kona Rove AL with Shimano Claris 8 speed drivetrain; running double FSA tempo chainset in front. This is the link to Kona’s specifications for the bike: http://2015.konaworld.com/rove_al.cfm

I am wanting to convert this into a 1x drivetrain. Any tips on how and what parts? I figured I would need a clutch rear derailleur, which I was looking at Shimano XT 9 speed as a replacement? I’m just unsure on the cassette size, single chainring size and cranks that I would need. I mostly ride flat trails with just a bit of low grade climbing within the city. Any advice, ideas or experiences shared would be great.


texts:
I'm planning to buy a bike. Based on my height (I'm 5 foot 6 inches / 167 cm) people suggested me to go for anything between 17"-18" frame.

When I calculated its coming as 17.5"

My dilemma is if I go for 17" (43 cm) as the frame is readily available is that right fit? Does 0.5" (12.7mm) makes a big difference in terms of comfortability and ride quality?

I'm looking for MTB or Hybrid. I'm 27 and my height is just below average.


texts: Can I use 26" electric hub wheels on a vintage road bike?

texts:
I got this old road bike that I bought for $20 and fixed up a bit.  I'm having to use it for a very long commute in the meantime until I can get other transportation so I was looking at a cheap electric kit solution.  The mid drives are too expensive because my budget is only about $400 so I was looking at hub drives but all of them I find are 26".

My bike currently has 23.  The side of the tire says [700 x 23C]

If I get one of these 26" hub wheel kits will it fit my bike?


texts:
I try to make all my bicycle-related purchases (parts, tools, accessories, etc) at my LBS, but I have never bought a new bike at a LBS, and I (very) rarely take my bikes in for service. On average, I probably spend $30 month at the shop, and I only buy stuff half the time I come in.
In the past, I've always tried to build up a good relationship with the folks who work at the shop, because I often come in to ask questions and just talk about bikes.

My question is: am I freeloading, or am I a (financially) valued customer?

For the record, they have always been helpful, and have never given me the impression that I was unwelcome. BUT, when I come and ask about - for example - putting disk brakes on a 90's Hardrock frame, they will suggest that it will be easier to just get a new bike.

The root question might be: what are the typical profit margins on new bikes, repairs, and parts?
I know for a fact that I could get parts significantly cheaper on Amazon, but like I said, it's nice to bounce ideas off LBS mechanics in-person.

Note: I am talking about both small privately owned shops, and larger chains (eg, Performance Bikes), over a period of multiple years.


texts: What is the proper way to store tires to prevent cracking?

texts:
I have several extra tires, two on a spare wheelset, and others in a bundle.  I am not riding as much as I was a year ago, so I will not be wearing out tires as fast as I was.

What is the best way and conditions to store these tires so that the rubber doesn't just crack and split when I put them on wheels and pump them up?

Note: I don't know if it makes a difference, but I live at about 5000' of elevation in a very dry climate; forced air heating is used in my apartment about 6 months a year.

More info as an example: I had tires mounted on wheels, deflated, hanging from ceiling hooks.  I don't know how long it was that I hadn't used them but it was probably 12+ months.  When I inflated them a week ago to the recommended pressure the sidewalls showed cracking parallel to the rim on the whole, or nearly the whole circumference of the tire.


texts:
I recently procured some energy gel tubes (as a prize for being able to pick up a coin from the ground while on my bike), and I'm not sure what to do with them. I mean, they're for eating, of course, but more in depth than that ;)

On what type of a ride is it appropriate to use an energy gel in the middle? Does it depend on the length of the ride, or the difficulty/how strenuous it is? Does it change depending on the ability of the cyclist?

If it's relevant, I'm 15, starting to learn at a higher riding level for dirt/mountain bikes.


texts: Is it possible to upgrade Schwinn Willy to use an internal gear hub?

texts:
I have a Schwinn Willy (single speed).

My commute is 6 miles each way on flat road with a bike section. There's only one 'hilly' section. A single speed bike is too slow. Everyone keeps passing me. I need gears.

I don't want to spend money on a new bike since I like my current one so much. I thought I can upgrade it to have gears using a Shimano Nexus 3 internal gear hub.

My understanding is that I can fit it in. I can even mount the cable through to the steering bar. But I can't find anything on how to install it into the wheel itself. So my questions are:

Will it fit?
Do I need new spokes? If so, what size? I can't figure out what size my wheels are. They measure 27.5" including the tires.
The hub only gives 33% boost in gear. If I want more than that can I put in a new crankset? What size? I can't figure out what size I have and what's bigger than that.


texts: I have a bicycle that is yet to have been identified by anyone

texts:
It's a five speed with a Nervar crankset
The rear derailleur is a Huret Allivet
The single friction shifter lever is located on the downtube
Remnants of a "Made in France" sticker cling to life close to said shifter
It has a headbadge that is duplicated on the top tube of an illustration of a gentleman racing a bike with the words "Tour de France" hanging in the upper left corner. The illustration is cartoonish almost in an Archie style.

I've sent emails, taken the bike to more shops than most will see in a lifetime and have strained my eyeballs to no end looking through google images in an attempt to give my daily a proper id. Here's what we know:
Has anyone ever seen one of these bikes? Does anyone know what company or manufacturer made this bike?


texts: Effect of drinking coffee before riding?

texts:
I'm 173 cm with about 45 kg weight (underweight). In the same ride of 30 km with short but steep uphill and downhill, if I drink coffee I tend to feel better when riding, but about two hours after the ride I would feel weak and shaking. Note that I drink about 150 ml moccachino. I don't feel like this if I don't drink coffee.
Is there an explanation to this? Am I maybe intolerance of coffee? Maybe I don't eat enough? Personally I don't really enjoy the taste of anything other than moccachino.


texts:
This question at aviation.se got me calculating the acceleration of a bike strapped to the outside of a plane if the straps broke.  As you do. I couldn't find a figure for CdA of a bike without rider anywhere, and it seems to me that the rider's body will dominate the system CdA.

A more realistic situation for most of us would be consdering the forces on a bike on top of a car, again from the point of view of secure attachment (e.g. tryiong to fit an unusual bike with home-made brackets).

So are there published figures for the CdA of bikes (any type) without riders?


texts: Simple plain English explanation of VO2 MAX

texts: What is VO2 MAX and how is a measurement taken? By how much can VO2 MAX be increased in the average person?


texts:
My spokes are described as follows:

  American Classic round spoke (butted 14/15 gauge; 2.0/1.8mm), black 286mm (without nipple).

Does this imply that the correct nipple to go with them would be 15 gauge? I assume that the thicker gauge is at the outer ends, if I've understood butting correctly.


texts: When shifting to the 1st gear the chain shifts up to 3rd derailleur(rear)!

texts: I am using 21 speed bicycle and the problem is that I am unable to shift the chain to the largest derailleur(rear)....the shifters are thumb press type there's no problem in pressing the shifter...when shifting to the 1st gear the chain shifts up to 3rd derailleur(rear)!


texts: I recently upgraded to puncture resistant tires on my road bike. The previous tires are old, but still usable. Is there any value to doing anything other than throwing them out? For instance, is there any reason to keep them? Is it possible to sell used tires? If no one wants them, can/should they be recycled?


texts: Can I replace hood covers on Shimano ST-2300 brake/gear levers?

texts:
I'm looking to buy a replacement cover on my right brake/gear lever which is a Shimano ST2300.

I've found a 'Shimano Bracket-Cover Hood Dual-Control-Lever R9150/R9170' Road-Bike on AliExpress, but I'm not sure it will fit. What are your thoughts please? Kind regards, James.


texts: How does increased upper-body strength affect riding, and which muscles make the biggest difference?

texts:
I am a college student, in Air Force ROTC, and I bike for 1.5-3.5 hours a day.  My cardio and core strength are great, but I haven't found the motivation to build my upper body.  I'm a skinny build, so it will take some work.

My question is: how will increased upper-body strength affect cycling, primarily all mountain and freeride type riding?

On top of HOW more upper body strength affects riding, which upper-body muscles will make the biggest difference?


texts: How to keep my hydration pack tubes and valve from freezing?

texts:
I like to ride with a hydration pack when I mountain bike in the winter since all sorts of nasty stuff gets tossed up at my bottles.  However, I've had issues with the tube or valve getting clogged due to the water inside freezing during rides in the low 20s Fahrenheit (roughly -5°C). It's really hard to deal with this issue while you're out in the woods.

Is there anything I can do to prevent this from freezing so quickly?


texts: What does the chainring have to do with SRAM YAW

texts: I'm shopping for 110 BCD chain rings and I noticed that some of the SRAM ones are labeled "YAW FD only".  As far as I can tell the derailleur doesn't touch the chainring so whats so special?  Can I safely use this chainring with a shimano FD?


texts: Is shimano ct-s500 chain tensioner supposed to move around its bolt?

texts: I disassembled my Shimano ct-s500 chain tensioner and now I am putting it all together. However after attaching it to the frame it moves  for about 60 degrees around the bolt which attaches it to the frame. Here is a video https://drive.google.com/open?id=1itR1nnxvhlJbIqK0KxWzaiwva47sI4Cj (see the second half of it). Is it supposed to be like that?


texts: Need Help Deciding What to Do With Bent Front Rim

texts:
I bent my front rim the previous day, and the LBS has already unbent it the best they could; however, there is still a slight wobble.

To add, he couldn't tension all the spokes to get a proper true or the deformation would be worse (which I think is causing a bit of pinging).

He said it can be ridden on, but may not take another large impact.

So here's my problem, should I go ahead and buy a new rim or should I keep riding with this one?

I feel I can make it last, but if it poses a major injury risk then I would much rather go with a new rim.


texts: Can a 9x3 front derailleur fit on a 7x3 configuration?

texts:
I own a budget MTB (Decathlon Rockrider ST 100), with 3x7 speed and I want to upgrade the cheap derailleurs to something more reliable (Such as Shimano Deore).
I already changed the brakes and shifters by the way.
I don't wanna change the freewheel now (as it would force me to change the whole wheel if I want a cassette).
My question is : can I put a 3x9 front derailleur on this configuration ? As the only front derailleurs for 3x7 configurations are on the Altus or Tourney range, and I want something more solid.


texts: Are disc brakes more effective on rainy weather? I had a close call riding my road bike during a morning rain and almost collided with a parked car. My road bike is steel and has tektro branded caliper brakes. Should I get a disc brake commuter bike?


texts: Hydraulic disc brakes not sticking after replacing pads and bedding in

texts:
So i first bleed my brakes and really botched it, getting brake oil everywhere. I cleaned up, got new pads and wiped the rotors down. I got new brake pads which i the proceeded to bed in. Eventually they stuck well and I declared them ready to go and put my bike away. About 2 weeks later I get it out again, and the brake doesnt stick well, and is squeaking. I sand the brake pad and bed it in again and then braking performance improved. Now i took my bike out and it seemed like the same thing happened.

Is it that the brakes arent fully bed in yet? Why would my braking improve then become worse after I put my brake away?


texts:
I would like to upgrade a carbon fiber bike (Scott CR1) to Ultegra Di2 with internal wiring.
Can I drill a hole where the cable holders are located (one next to the fork, one near the bottom crank & one at the rear, close to the derailleur) in order to route the cables inside ?


texts: Minimum tire pressure for 20 mph (32 kph) turn

texts:
I almost wiped out on the morning commute while rounding a corner!

I have 700x25mm tires and usually keep them around 90psi.  What is the most you've put in your tires (psi) to insure flawless turns?


texts: Options for adding lower gearing for bike with Shimano 105 drivetrain

texts:
I have a 2015 Salsa Vaya 2 with a Shimano 105 drivetrain. It has a Shimano 105 Triple front derailleur with a 30/42/52t crankset. In the back it has an 11-30T 10-speed cassette (installed for me by the LBS instead of the stock 11-28T one). I was told at the time that I can't get a lower-geared cassette on this bike.

Now I'd like to get into some light touring, and want to lower the gearing for climbing with load. What are my options? I see some 105 cassettes with larger big cogs (e.g. 11-34 11-speed). Can I just drop one in? Do I need a different rear derailleur, a new shifter, or any other parts to ensure things work?


texts: How often do you need to grease the crank?

texts: Haven't done maintenance on my bike in years.  Recently cleaned it up and repaired some spokes.  Greased the front and rear wheel bearings and degreased the chain.  Looks good but only thing didn't do was grease the crank.


texts: What size are the replacement o rings in the prestacycle set?

texts:
https://www.crosslakesales.com/products/prestacycle-prestaflator-tool-rebuild-kit-o-ring-new
I asked the company that manufactures them, they said they didn't know.
Does anyone know the sizes? I ask because the set is not available in the UK. Flying it over the Atlantic seems ridonkulous when I could just buy some o rings here.


texts: Can I replace chainrings without replacing the rest of the drive train?

texts: I now ride a 60cm SurlyLHT with chain rings at 26/36/48t. Can I replace with a smaller set at 22/32/46t (or similar combination) without having to replace the entire drive train - cassette, rear derailleur, front deraileur etc.?


texts: Brand New Bicycle Brake Cables Popping out

texts:
I've searched this site for this issue but it appears other questions/answers relate to old cables/housing. This specific problem happened after replacing both (link to Shimano brake cable set- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LUBZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Having neglected my brake cables/housing for many years, I've gone ahead and replaced the cables and housing on my 2012 Trek 8.3 DS. This seemed like a very straightforward repair, so I went for it. Interestingly, the old cables didn't have much rust on them but I went ahead and replaced them anyway assuming the stretch would affect performance.

Long story short, I cut everything to essentially the same length and fed the cables/housing through all the various caps and grooves in the exact same way the old, factory installed cables were. Upon squeezing the brake lever I am finding some of the housing shifts and even pops out of the grooves on the underside of the top tube. This, of course, "resets" the tension and suddenly I have a significant amount of slack in the cable.

I should mention the end caps on the housing were a wider diameter than the pre-existing ones so they didn't fit well into the plastic caps that preceded bare wire running the length of the top tube. Reading the product description again, I'm seeing the metal pieces are all considered end caps (MTB/Road). I put these onto the housing where the housing ends so perhaps this is causing problems (the original housing has metal caps at the ends).

After reading up on this site on similar issues regarding older cables/housing, I see many asking if the cables had recently been lubed. I've read in a few places I shouldn't be lubing brand new cables since this will attract dirt. I'm not sure what to do since this friction within the housing could also be shifting the housing around after applying pressure.

I'm also noticing there is zero "spring" tension pulling the cable back after applying pressure to the brake lever. Might this also be a factor?

Thank you for your help!


texts: Looking at gravel racing what should I look for in fit compared to a normal road bike setup? I'm concerned about stack and reach angles of head tube and seat tube, bottom bracket drop, fork rake and such things.


texts: Finding the right size wheel for a electric bike kit

texts: I want to convert my trek cross bike to a electric bike.  I have 700c rear tire.  The kits wheels seem to come in inches.  What should I do?


texts: Does the tire tread reduce the likelyhood of getting a puncture?

texts:
I've been using the last year thickslicks to driver mainly inside my city and I usually tried to don't go through anything else but asphalt to prevent punctures.

I've been wondering if going through a rocky path (or something similar with lot of little rocks) with thickslicks (700x28)  and pressure around 100psi is more likely to get a puncture than the traditional wider and with tread tires that most MTB bikes have.

Example with no tread:

And with:


texts: Are there fenders designed specifically for bikes with racks?

texts: I have a bike with a rear rack and want to buy a rear fender. Is there any fender that is specifically designed to be used in a combination with a bike rack?


texts:
What does a cyclocomputer actually measure for calculating the speed of the bike?
Is it the time for one revolution $T$ or is it the number of revolutions $n$ per given time $t_0$?

If the radius of the wheel is $R$ then you get the speed of the bike $v$ by

$v = 2 \pi R /T$

in the first case and by

$v = 2\pi R n/t_0$ in the second.

It might seem to be a tiny difference, but I am really interested in this detail. Hope someone could clarify this and give some references.


texts: Rack (& Pannier) for a bike with disc brakes

texts:
I'd like to get a rack for my bike (Haibike Land). The problem is that the bottom screws are blocked by the disc brake:

(If it is not obvious from the photo, the brake and its mounting screws are in the way of the rack.)

Are there any solutions for this problem? In my LBS they just told me that bikes with disc brakes are not meant to have racks (although they've told me this after telling me it should fit fine and ordering it). But I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue.

I've thought I could put some washer or spacer there but I'm a bit worried about the torque caused by such solution.

EDIT

To clear things up, here is the side photo (from bottom in the direction of the saddle):


texts: What is the difference between 1/2'' x 1/8'' and 1/8'' chain size for single speed?

texts:
I get the difference between 1/8'' and 3/32'', but does this 1/2'' really make a difference, or is it the same thing?

I want to use the chain for track cycling.


texts: How to assemble '70s-era center-pull brake

texts:
I've (supposedly) got a 1976 Motobecane Le Champion with what appears to be the original center-pull rim brakes, which unforunately are not in one piece and need to be re-assembled:

As you can see in the picture, there is a spring on each caliper arm (in the blue square) which needs to be "set" between a hook on the center piece and a hook on the arm itself. When doing this for only one side, you can simply manipulate the arm into place by squeezing it in your hand and then letting the spring settle in. However, when trying to assemble the other arm, I run into huge problems:

The spring for the inner (here unattached) arm needs to be put on before the arm itself
The two arms need to "already" be aligned together, as there is a "rivulet" on the inner plate into which a rubberized "nub" on the back of the outer plate fits (outlined in green).
However, the aforementioned spring needs to be set properly before aligning the two plates, because there is no way to move the spring into place once aligned in such a way.
Trying to "squeeze" the second arm into place doesn't work as with the first one because it's already "influenced" by the first one, since they interlock (as described above) and, in order to "squeeze" the second arm, the first arm also has to be squeezed at the same time so that the "pulls" on the end of the arm (where the cables are supposed to go) otherwise block the movement of the opposing arm.

Unfortunately, I have tiny little baby hands and so I simply can't squeeze the two arms together in a way which is non-clumsy enough to allow me to then use a ridiculous amount of strength with the other hand to contract the spring manually in order to set the opposing arm.

However, after literally hours of trying to take it apart and put it back together, I started to think (hope?) that there must be a more efficient way of doing this which I have somehow missed: After all, these brakes were designed to be serviced by humanoids with two hands. Unfortunately, the internet has not been very useful in this matter; Does no one have an idiot-proof set of step-by-step instructions for assembling this type of brake?


texts: What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle?

texts:
What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle, as opposed to owning a bicycle?

I can think of several:

They are lighter and smaller than bikes
Easier to maintain, fewer moving parts
They provide good practice for balancing


texts: Ever seen a locking bag that could be locked to the bike?

texts:
This might take a little explaining.

I've got stuff on my bike that removes easily and could be stolen: head light, tail light, cyclometer. If I'm riding to a concert or something, I don't want to lug that kind of stuff around in my pockets, but I don't want to leave it sitting out on my bike for thieves, either.

I've been looking for some kind of small bag or pouch made from a tough material (like those locking bags banks use for deposits) that could be locked to the bike. I'm imagining something with a sturdy strap that would fit through an opening on the other side, so you could then feed your U-lock or chain through the loop, thus locking the bag shut and to the bike at the same time.

Has anyone ever seen anything like this? Is this overkill for a problem with a simpler solution?


texts: How can I store my extra wheels on the wall efficiently, without hanging them by the rim?

texts:
I have 5 pair of extra wheels, which I would like to store on the wall efficiently.

I am a little skittish about storing them using the rim since some of them are carbon wheels and I don't want to risk scratches. Any suggestions?


texts: Cracked a steel fender today. My fault or design problem? And now what should I do?

texts:
Last year I, after cracking an sks chromoplastic, I decided to get some stainless steel fenders. I noticed at the time that the fender (700x45) was almost identical to the diameter of the tire (700x35). This seemed odd to me and I took this picture.

You can see the problem - if I lift the fender up about 1/2" to clear the tire, the two ends of the fender are still very close to the tire. The solution is to bend the fender during installation, to stretch those ends away from the tire, which I did. I installed this fender about a year ago. It cracked at the seat stay bridge today.

I have steel fenders on my 26er, which is strictly a snow commuter, and they did not need to be stretched and forced to fit. They've held tight for two winters.

I feel like I need either a flexy fender which won't crack, or a perfectly fit steel fender. Or maybe there is a way to modify steel fenders so that they are not under tension when forced to fit?

EDIT:
The crack:


texts:
I've recently bought a smart lock for my bike that can be mounted directly on the frame. Problem is that my frame has no hole for screwing it on the frame. So I improvised with with 3 zip ties on each side. Question: will it hold or should I remove it and use some other system? It's been a week so far and it held quite well.
Thoughts?

Here's an image of the lock being used. As you can see the 3 holes where the zip ties are going into to then tie against the frame:


texts:
I recently purchased a brand new Scott Genius 950 at a local bike store.  After bedding in the brakes, I noticed a rattling noise while riding coming from the front disc brake.  I brought it back to the bike shop, they disassembled the front brake and put it back together, but the noise is still there.
I was told to bring the bike back when the head mechanic is in, but I thought it would be worth posting a video of the noise here.  It seems to act up the most when I turn sharply left or right.  It doesn't always rattle, and it does it when I am not braking.
Maybe it isn't the brake, but the spokes?  I am not really sure.
YouTube Video:

Any suggestions?
UPDATE 1
I just got back from the shop, the head mechanic took the front brake apart and put it back together. I rode it around the parking lot for a while, and just now around the neighborhood. Seems that the noise is gone (for now!).
I asked what he did, but I don't remember all of the technical details. Definitely re-aligned everything, tightened everything, mentioned something about [retracting?] the spring, etc. I wish I remembered more of what he said so I could share it here.
UPDATE 2
I just got back from a test ride around the neighborhood. I can still get a slight rattle out of it when dropping the front end after doing a wheelie. Since the front brake has been rebuilt by the shop mechanic, I am not too worried about safety. From the feel of it, nothing is loose, and I have full stopping power. I suppose I will just have to learn about it on my own, and continue to investigate.
UPDATE 3
So, I am able to reproduce the noise (only for a fraction of a second) when dropping the front end down, hitting a curb at an angle, and turning sharply.  It makes a very quick, very quiet ching noise.  From this, I am now thinking that it may be from the flexibility of the fork causing the rotor to make brief contact with the pads.  After learning how the disc brakes on my bike really work, I am not concerned that this will be a safety issue, and may wear in with time if my conjecture is correct.
I found some interesting information after looking at the dealer's manual for my brakes: SHIMANO Hydraulic Disc Brake 4-Piston Caliper Model: BR-MT420
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-MBBR001-04-ENG.pdf
On Page 8 about a third of the way down the page it reads "The 203 mm and 180 mm disc brake rotors have a larger diameter than the 160 mm disc brake rotor for cross-country bicycles, and so the flexing of these disc brake rotors is greater. As a result, they will interfere with the brake pads.".
Very interesting, as those are the exact size of the rotors on my bike.  So maybe this is normal and expected?
Thank you to everyone who has responded, and if anyone has any further ideas or experience with this issue, please reply :)


texts: How often do you need to have your fork and rear shock fully serviced?  My guess is that this depends on how many miles you are riding, so lets say 150 miles/ year.


texts: How to (safely) navigate a four-way stop

texts:
What's the safest way to navigate a four-way stop on a bicycle?

I've found that some cars will ignore me, others will wave me
through, and still others will just treat me as any other vehicle on the road.

As a result, I generally have a hard time figuring out the safest
way to get through such an intersection.

What does the (US) law say for how I should navigate such an intersection?
What is the safest way?


texts: SRAM chain with Shimano cassette and crankset?

texts:
When new my bike had all Shimano components.

When it was time to replace the chain, the LBS installed an SRAM chain.

Was that a mistake on their part (if so, was it a bad mistake)?

I had a problem subsequently, and wonder whether the parts are quite compatible/interchangeable.

Edit -- I thought I remembered someone's saying on this forum that chain and cogs are specially shaped, to help the chain jump from one cog to the next when you change gears; and that this shaping is somewhat manufacturer-specific: so mixing them makes it harder to shift gears.


texts: How thin/worn out can you allow road bike rims to get?

texts: My mechanic measured the rim off my front wheel to be 0.8mm thick and recommended to get a new wheel. How thin can a rim get until it gets very dangerous to keep riding it?


texts: Thinking of quitting due to dangerous driving

texts:
I used to cycle a lot, and decided to try taking it back up after last year's Olympics.

But it feels like almost every time I try to go out for a ride I nearly get taken out by someone passing far too close and giving no warning.  As I'm partially sighted this is particularly terrifying.  I can spot things ahead of me with plenty of time to avoid nasty incidents if I keep my concentration up, but that leaves me less aware of what's going on behind me, and I can't see well enough to pick out number plates if I need to report someone.  I also rely on hearing to detect cars coming up but when the traffic is heavier I can't pick out individual cars over the general background roar of traffic.

I'm in a full time job and pay my taxes just like everyone else, I've every right to be on the road.  But drivers, either through ignorance or malice are making me feel very unwelcome on the roads.

The idea of quitting to me is galling because like I said, I have every right to be on the road, and I can see well enough to avoid getting into trouble provided the people coming up behind me don't act like morons.  But I also don't want to end up dead.

Have you got any advice for me?

I live in the Greater Manchester area


texts: Where to find specific vintage rim/wheel?

texts: I have a 1983 Lotus Unique that came with 27 x 1" Ukai rims. The front wheel went missing and I'd like to find an original replacement. Lots of 27 x 1 1/4" or 1 1/8" out there, but I haven't been able to find 1" rims. Any suggestions? Thx


texts: Can I use denatured alcohol instead of isopropyl alcohol when servicing a fork?

texts:
I want to try to do the lower leg service of my suspension fork myself for the first time. In the RockShox videos on that topic on YouTube, they take apart the fork and clean the parts with isopropyl alcohol.

In the nearby bike or hardware stores, I can't seem to find isopropyl alcohol at all. Will using simple denatured alcohol be bad for any parts of the fork, e.g. the seals?

Or are there any common household alternatives for this purpose?


texts: Shimano: what's the difference between medium cage and long cage?

texts: I'm looking at XTR Di2, and it seems the rear derailleur comes in 2 variations: medium cage and long cage. What are the two sizes for? Do they match different types of cassettes? What kind would I need for an 11-42 or 11-46?


texts: Is it normal for an Inner tube to bulge when inflated?

texts:
I recently bought a pair of inner tubes and when I partially inflated one of them before putting it into the tire (only a few pumps with a floor pump), I noticed a portion of it was bulging out considerably. It looked like a snake who had swallowed a giant mouse, there was a huge bulge on one section of the tire. I went to get my camera to take a photo of it, but it then burst before I could take a photo.

Went back to the LBS and got a replacement tube, and when I partially inflate this one it also bulges quite a bit too, although not nearly as extreme as the last one that popped.

Is it normal for an inner tube to bulge out as much as this? I'm just worried this one will pop as well.


texts: How to prevent over-tightening a bolt with a socket wrench?

texts: I recently bought a socket wrench to fix a loose and awkwardly positioned bolt on my mountain bike. The bolt secures the bike's crank arm to the frame of the bike. How do I ensure I don't over-tighten the bolt and break it?


texts: Did I just ruined my rear shock? fox float :(

texts:
My shock was quite ok, but I still tried to service it.

After dissembling, it has absolutely no oil in it. I filled with 5 ml of fox fluid, put everything together. After installed to the frame started to pump some air slowly.

The problem is that if the sag is correct, than a 20 cm drop can make the shock travel 90% (150psi 73kg), now it's 210psi, and the sag is smaller then 10%, but from an average 30cm drop still travels 70-80%.

Has anyone some idea what could I possibly messed up to have this result?


texts:
Preface:
I am going to start building out new bike for myself and decided to put disk brakes on my new bmx build as an additional challenge. I am old school and prefer brakes on front as well, it seems like it is hard to find ubrake mount pegs on new forks.

Issue:
Trying to figure out how to mount rotor on to hub. Also, disk brake mounting adapters seem like something that could be machined if I can't find one, do not want to weld anything on to the frame. I found one rear hub (http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/tpc-products/pro-rear-hub-disc/) that has mounting for rotor. I was wondering what are the options I have these days for mounting rotors on BMX hubs? Also looking to do same for front wheel hub as well. Any suggestions?

I am mostly interested in aspects of rotor installation / mounting on to the hub it self, i am looking at 14mm axil hubs. Are there adapters that i can plump on the hub it self? For example if i would buy http://www.federalbikes.com/parts/freecoaster-v3/ what could i do? Or more specifically these: http://unitedbikeco.com/products/supreme-female-front-hub http://unitedbikeco.com/products/supreme-female-freecoaster-hub

On the other hand may be i can just adopt MTB front hub, like this one: http://www.wheelbuilder.com/white-industires-xmr-iso-front-disc-brake-hub.html
And then purchase bmx specific rear hub, http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/tpc-products/pro-rear-hub-disc/ that already has rotor mount point?


texts:
Assumptions:

With city bikes (comfort/dutch bikes, like the one on the picture below) weight is not a priority for the design.
City bikes use narrow tires
For the same pressure, a narrow tire exhibits more rolling resistance
Air drag is an order of magnitude lower than rolling resistance at speeds up to 20 km/h
Thin tires puncture more often and require pumping up more often

So why do those bikes use thin tires, and not 2" slicks?


texts: What bottom bracket would i need for my Specialized Allez Sprint 2020?

texts: So i'm planning to build this bike up using Ultegra R8020 but i'm not sure what bottom bracket i would need. When I purchased the frame I was given these "cups" but im not sure if this is a good alternative solution. The bearings that are preinstalled have Enduro 6806 ABEC-3 written on them.


texts: I got a leak on my shimano 105 R7020 STI

texts:
My caliper rotor push oil back in the STI. All of the sudden mineral oil started leaking.
Do you know SKU of this part?


texts: Tubless rims with non tubeless tires -- what rim tape?

texts:
I run tubeless rims (specifically the new Mavic Open Pros) with the non-tubeless Continental GP GTs. The tires have lots of life left in them so I want to make the most of them in the meantime.

However recently I've been getting loads of punctures, and I think many of them are down the the rim strip not fully covering the whole rim bed (which is very wide). When I take the tire off I can see that some of the tape as been pushed right into the corner of the rim bed.

Should I just use tubeless rim tape with these rims & tires despite the fact I am not using a tubeless tire? It makes sense to me to use tubless rim tape as when these tires do wear out I probably will switch to tubeless.


texts:
I’m trying to grease my speedplay pedals, but the little end screw on one of the pedals just spins.  It will not unscrew, thereby allowing me access to the grease port.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Scott


texts: Yesterday I pedaled reverse (one circle) while getting on my bike, I heard a sound at the chains and after that the bike speed on my 5th and 6th gear got slower. Before I used to pedal less and the bike would go faster but now I have to pedal alot faster for the bike to move ahead. What is the problem? Should I visit the cycle repair shop for fixing or can I fix it by myself?


texts: Suitability of Giant Aero RS2 for occaisonal on-road mountain trips

texts:
I'm planning to buy a bike for use only in summer, mostly on 100% flat terrain (being The Netherlands). However, I would also like to be able to use it as a packing mule and go into the mountains for a week, on-road, once a year.

If you take Giant, they have the Expedition LT for the latter. But, it does come with a hefty price tag (€ 1900). Giant also has the Aero RS1 (€ 1300) and RS2 (€ 900). The RS1 having a completely different frame, being lighter (which is not relevant for me, since 1 kg on 30 kg of bags won't make a difference).

I know that the Expedition has better Shimano sets, hydraulic disc breaks (although I have my doubts about disc breaks; spoke shearing forces, complexity), etc, but I was just wondering how a bike like the Aero RS2 holds up when going into the mountains, on-road, once a year for a week. It does have mounting holes for front bag carriers, so at least in that sense, it's prepared for it,  but they do call it a 'lite trekking' bike. I just wonder if that means something, or if that is only to give credence to the existence of higher priced ones.

The only thing I may actually miss, is the hydraulic breaks, for their better control. Giant has other bikes too that have hydraulic breaks, like the Futuro RS1, but its front fork has no mounting holes for bag carriers, and it has suspension (which I don't like climbing).


texts: Which clipless mountain bike pedals have free float (i.e. no spring recentering)?

texts:
The only mountain bike pedal I've found that doesn't have spring recentering are Speedplay Frog Pedals.

I've tried Shimano SPD pedals and Crank Bros Eggbeaters/Candy and both have spring recentering in the angular float. It appears most pedals have a spring or other retention system that increases the tension as you twist your foot away from center until you've unclipped.

Are there any pedals similar to Speedplay X/Zero and Frog for mountain biking that have free float through its full range of angular motion?


texts:
How can one carry a bike with a step-through/mixte frame effectively?-- In comparison, any diamond-frame bike is a breeze for me to shoulder regardless of weight (okay, carrying a 25+-kg roadster is not exactly enjoyable, but it can be done): I've tried carrying a "true" step-through frame (but never a mixte) and it seems that, no matter how I hold the thing, I feel like an idiot and become exhausted after only a couple of minutes.

Online, I haven't been able to find much actual info on how to do it despite loads of discussion about how diamond-frames are so much easier to carry. On Lovely Bicycle!, however, there is an explanation of doing this for different models of step-through bike, but unless the girl pictured in that post is a deadlift champion, I don't see how it's possible to hold those bikes for very long.