texts: Should I buy a Dahon or wait for a Tern folding bike?

texts:
I am currently thinking about buying a Dahon folding bike to replace my existing Dahon folding bike. Brompton and other marques are not really a consideration because I like Dahon for many reasons - sensible gear range, better hinges (they owned the patents) and they are also possible to fold without a degree in engineering (unlike Mezzo).

However, in researching if I will be able to get an Alfine 11 on a Dahon any time soon I discover that Mr Hon's estranged wife and his son have taken the intellectual property of Dahon plus a few of the factories and setup this new company called 'Tern'. Meanwhile, Mr Hon has gone to court and tried to get a restraining order on the new upstart.

'Tern' could be the new Dahon and take over the UK distribution, in which case I would be stuck for spares down the road if I was to get that new Dahon Mu now. So, what do I do, get a Dahon or wait for a 'Tern'?

http://www.bikebiz.com/news/read/us-federal-judge-denies-dr-david-hon-s-request-for-tern-to-quit/011621


texts: Tried to replace bicycle brake housing. Broken cable?

texts:
I was attempting to replace my stock front v brake to a better aftermarket v brake everything went ok until I tried to test it and the brake cable end, the one that connects to the brake lever, will not stay in place.

As you can see, the cable gets clamped at the brake lever entrance. On my bicycle the clamp or  ferrule will not stay in place. In other words, the cable does not tighten because it will not clamp into the brake lever, it slides.

My question is.. Can this be fixed? Perhaps I can glue it in somehow? Perhaps there is something that gets clamped in a different way?

Apologies for the vague explanation.


texts: Preload on Haro mountain bike fork not working

texts: I recently got into mountain biking, however, I realized that my front suspension would not dampen or even move when I got on it, only hard movement down would actually move it (but not by much). So I decided to find a way to adjust it so I checked out how to adjust a preload, apparently, there should be a click when you turn it and then it should dampen or make the suspension harder, but when I turn my preload cap it's very hard to turn and doesn't make any sound when I turn it. Does anyone know how to solve this issue as I would like to get as much out of my bike as possible.


texts: How do I find the right derailleur (gear-mech)?

texts:
I have a 9 x 3 speed mountain-bike. The derailleur got broken (and was since lost), I'm trying to find a new one. What do I need to go by to ensure I get a good fit? The rear-casette (sprokets) range from 11 to 32 teeth (there are 9 of them). Is this enough information?

Edit

It was noted that I also need to know the make of the gear-shifter, the one I have is SRAM


texts: Dahon Folding bike, seat came right off!

texts:
I was adjusting the seat on my Dahon Vitesse D8 when the seatpost quick release simply fell off (yellow piece in the images I supply)

The piece that bends to stop the seat from moving came off attached to the seatpost too.

I'm not so good at these things. No matter what combination I try there are always two issues (even when I successfully get the seat to lock in place)

The seatpost is constantly rotating (as opposed to completely locked in)
I can't pick up the bike by the seat, even though it's locked so it can't move down, it always freely comes up when I try to pick it up.

Here is a small gallery of images with my issue:

http://imgur.com/a/9xKFV

I've tried all sorts of variations and cannot get the the seatpost to lock in place properly...

Any help would be great! I've tried downloading the manual for this bike, but no where are these pieces mentioned or even an assembly guide.


texts:
Is there software / online resources / Drupal distribution capable of letting riders self-track and perhaps rank various routes around a location?

The end goal is to let new riders pair up with more experienced riders and let these folks share questions and advice on various routes in/out of a central location.


texts:
I wanted to purchase Shimano claris st-2400 and I was confused since some places say its a 2x8 and some other say its 3x8 . For example https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-2400-Claris-Shift-3x8-Speed/dp/B00CABMRN0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497286590&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+claris+3x8 this amazon listing says ST-2400 is 3x8 . Could someone please clarify?

Thanking You
Regards


texts: Tightening a quick release wheel and having one spring

texts:
I’m fairly new to mountain biking and I’ve recently removed a quick release wheel and I’m trying to reattach it. However if I tighten it too much it makes a squeak noise around the axle. Also I’ve noticed that I only have one spring and I’m sure I’ve bought it from the shop like that.

Anyway my question is should the quick release nut be tighten as much as physically possible? And also is it safe & normal for a bike to have only one spring (on the quick release)?


texts: What to do about a broken rear derailleur inner cage plate?

texts:
The chain on my road bike got caught in the rear cassette and as it snapped it broke one of the guide tabs on the inner cage plate of my new Shimano Ultegra 6800-SS rear derailleur. My two questions are:

How safe is it riding with this cage plate, given that it's only a guide tab? A mechanic at my LBS said that I can keep riding for a while, as long as the chain doesn't jump over the cage when I downshift.
Where can I get this cage plate without having to buy the entire derailleur?


texts:
Are there any online tutorials or can someone explain how to grease an internal hub gear?

I did a bit of searching but I only find people completely desassembling their hub gears. I am looking for a more practical day-to-day example.


texts: How much resistance should steerer have?

texts:
I'm replacing the fork on my Giant Defy 3 (2013) road bike.  Since I couldn't find an exact replacement for the Overdrive taper, I chose a straight 1-1/8" fork, and ordered some new parts to make it fit.  When I test fit the new fork, it has noticeably more resistance than the original when steering.  Other than that, it looks like it fits and works well.  So I'm wondering how much resistance is normal here?

New parts:
Bontrager XXX light carbon fork straight 1-1/8"
Cane Creek 110 series crown race 1-1/8"
Cane Creek ZN40 bearing 41mm
Cane Creek Lower Integrated Head Tube Adapter (Converts 47mm to 41mm)

The new crown race has a rubber seal which the original did not have.  Maybe this rubbing on the head tube is causing the resistance.


texts: Keeping a leather saddle in good condition

texts: Is shoe polish a good or at least adequate solution for keeping a leather saddle in good condition? And/or better options?


texts:
In overheard in a post ride discussion this morning about wanting a set of compact cranks.
My search on bicycles.se has only found this question with them in the title, but the answers don't mention exactly what they are.

Are they similar to the old biopace cranks?


texts:
In your opinion, what's the best way to install drop bars on a bike with a Pinion gearbox, in particular the C1.12.

Some of the options I'm aware of:

shifter on bar end
split bars with shifter next to the stem
a stubby accessory mount attached to the fork.
the Cinq Shift:R Road kit, listed on cinq.de for a lovely 700 euro and possibly not even out of the kickstarter phase yet.

The following links are about the Cinq shifter:

https://cinq.de/en/shifting-technology/434/shift-r-road-for-pinion?c=136

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1769923126/cinq-shift-r-for-pinion/posts/2625804

https://pinion.eu/en/eurobike-news-2/

Also of great interest is the link below, which lists various ways to install a Rohloff shifter on a drop bar, the Rohloff shifter being not entirely unlike the Pinion shifter. They're not identical, though. Cinq has more finished products for Rohloff and there appear to one or two other manufacturers that produce shifters for Rohloff (but not for Pinion).

Thank you.


texts:
I am trying to determine if my saddle is setup right.

In the picture below, my feet is at 9 o'clock and the improvised plum line that starts under my knee cap (hard to see, spot the white line against the bottom tube) is not going through the ball of my foot or near the pedal.

IIRC, the line should go through the ball of my foot and pedal spindle right? In this case, I need to back up my seat?

Edit #1

In the hopes of adding and clearing this post up a little, here's the other screenshot that I had taken with my heel on the pedal, to show the height component of my saddle:

I thought the height was ok.

I'm trying to solve an issue and wanted to tackle each bit individually starting with my saddle setup.

The issue that I'm trying to solve crops up after some time on the bike. It seems to be related to the amount of cranking going up hills. It varies in time and distance. If I concentrate on being in a lower gear than I want, and patiently go up hills, I can delay the pain from appearing.

The pain will start on the back and outer side of the knee, at the very top of the right calf. It first starts off with a warning, a dull pain. Then, I need to push the bike up the hill due to the pain when I crank on the bike. I can do flats and downhills ok.

IIRC, this is entirely related to my cleat positioning.

So far, I have been moving the seat around a bit to test to see if it made any difference. It doesn't. This post was to take the seat out of the equation so that I can move on to other things.

Edit #2

For the sake of completeness, I'm adding new snaps featuring more legs :)

Edit #3

IMO, it seems highly likely a cleat issue. However, wondering out loud, could my issue be related to lack of mobility perhaps due to some muscle groups not firing properly? (Glutes maybe?)


texts: Can not replace Shimano Octalink with 105 Crankset

texts: Hello! I am trying to upgrade my bike’s Octalink BB 118 mm to a 105 5600 BB and crankset. The problem is I can not make the plastic pin of 105 left leg fit the hole. I think the axle is too short or BB is too wide? Thanks in advance.!


texts: Looking to buy a bicycle for exercising and recreational activities, that will fit in a car

texts:
Exactly like the title says :) Well, I know how to ride bicycles, and I know they have 2 wheels, pedals and some gears, but almost nothing more than that :)

Now, I want to buy a bicycle and was lost between the options available in the market. I don't want a professional bicycle and I'm not planning to race with it... all I want is a bicyle that I can use for exercising and recreational activities, and is more advanced than delivery-boys bicycles :)

One more thing, I have a saloon/sedan car, and I very much prefer if that bicycle can be fitted in the trunk (maybe one of those that can be folded)

I'm not looking for "Bicycle Buying Guide for Dummies" :) what I'm looking for is some guidance on what to look/ask for when I go hunting for a bicycle :)

Thanks in advance.


texts:
I am 6.2 feet tall, and I have a mountain bike that is 17 inches long.
I know it looks bit small for me, but will I hurt myself by riding this bicycle? What should be the preferred bicycle length for someone my height?


texts: Why does the Uniform Vehicle Code take away a cyclist's right to use most of the roadway?

texts:
Why does the Uniform Vehicle Code take away a cyclist's right to use most of the roadway, restricting him or her to the far right?

Considering (1) the numerous exceptions to the 'keep far right' law, (2) how often a cyclist encounters these exceptions*, and (3) that every exception is safety-related, answers which suggest that keeping far to the right makes the cyclist safer must cite scientific research for support.

*Consider this example. The average car, bus, tractor trailer, and cyclist are 6, 8, 8.5, and 2.5 feet wide respectively. The minimum 'safe passing distance' is 3 feet (or more) wherever it's defined by law. Assume the cyclist rides 1 foot from the curb. (8.5 feet + 3 feet + 2.5 feet + 1 feet = 15 feet) Any road less than 15 feet wide is, by legal definition, substandard width. And since every travel lane in a cyclist's city or town is probably 12 feet wide or less, the cyclist may use the full lane virtually everywhere.

Note: Here are some relevant passages from the Uniform Vehicle Code (of the United States) for quick reference. I omitted some wording for brevity's sake. Visit the linked PDF if you wish to read the entire passages.

"Every person... riding a bicycle shall have all of the rights and all of the duties applicable to the driver of any other vehicle under chapters 10 and 11, except as to special regulations in this article..." - Uniform Vehicle Code, 11-1202, pp. 168

"Any person operating a bicycle... shall ride as close as practicable to the right-hand curb or edge of the roadway except under any of the following situations:
1. When overtaking and passing another bicycle or vehicle proceeding in the same direction.
2. When preparing for a left turn at an intersection or into a private road or driveway.
3. When reasonably necessary to avoid conditions' including but not limited
to: fixed or moving objects; parked or moving vehicles; bicycles; pedestrians; animals; surface hazards; or substandard width lanes that make
it unsafe to continue along the right-hand curb or edge. For purposes of this section, a "substandard width lane" is a lane that is too narrow for a
bicycle and a motor vehicle to travel safely side by side within the lane.
4. When riding in the right-turn-only lane." - Uniform Vehicle Code, 11-1205, pp. 168


texts:
On a ride recently my front derailleur seems to have gotten jammed. The levers wouldn't index and the derailleur itself wouldn't budge. After continuing the ride for a bit, the problem went away on its own. What could have caused this? And how can it be fixed more quickly in the future?

It is a Shimano Deore derailleur, and it was stuck in the smallest chainring position. The bike is new with less than 50 miles on it.


texts: Can't remove SHIMANO Nexus FC-C6000 Crankset

texts: I'm stuck trying to remove my SHIMANO Nexus FC-C6000 Crank from the SHIMANO BB-UN55 bottom bracket. I've removed the bolts fine but can't get the cranks apart. Any suggestions?


texts: Spoke tension - is a left tilt ok to prevent explosion?

texts:
The left hand steel blade spokes of my WH-RS30 (not 30A) are constantly exploding inside of the nipples when going up hill in a standing position. I have increased the right hand side tension to about 2150N (1600N is the recommended limit for the rims) and the left hand side to about 1150N (1100N recommended limit). The wheel now however is not perfectly centered, but slightly shifted towards the left. Is that acceptable?

I don't want to tighten the right side any further, but lower tension on the left is not acceptable either. I only increased the tension by about a 1/4 turn.

Is going that much above rim recommendations dangerous? No right hand spoke ever exploded, only the left hand side. Might I just be to heavy / "strong" with 90kg?

Maybe my TM-1 (tensiometer) is a bit off? The left side spokes still feel awfully easy turnable. What settings do you use on your TM-1. Mine are 20 right - 15 left because I think the spoke is closed to a steel blade with 1.0mm x 2.2mm

Interestingly, as I ordered repair spokes, they came with longer nipples (part number didn't change). Is this a sign of a known problem?


texts: Does helmet padding contribute to the safety of a helmet?

texts: Does the padding inside of a bicycle helmet contribute to the overall security of the helmet? I.e. do they cushion a crash in some way, or are they just there for comfort?


texts:
I had adjusted my disc brakes (Tektro Spyre-C) in such way that the gap between discs and pads were tiny (just enough to slide a sheet of paper).

Recently when I rode through a forest, there was a heavy rain and the front disc started ringing and creaking. The latter could be the effect of sand, the first one -- a cone? I took a look but because of the rain I could not see a thing. I figured out I pull the lever gently and wipe out anything that is stuck around the disc.

It worked. Too well. After a while I realized I had to pull the brake lever up to the handlebar to stop. When I get to home I noticed the gaps between disc and pads are much bigger.

I removed the pads now, they look ok (the contact/braking surface is around 2mm thick on both), the spring which separates them also looks healthy, I don't see I lost something, so now I wonder what happened? If I a not mistaken to make the gap bigger the only way is to adjust the screws which set the initial position of the pads.

Unless the pads were skewed in some way when I bought the bike and this rough ride "fixed" them. But then how it is possible for pads to be skewed in the first place and if it is a case why all (around 1500 km) braking so far didn't show or fix this?

Can anyone tell what could be the problem? Or what problem I have now I am not aware of? I am asking about it as well, because all I see is to do is to put pads back and adjust the screws to have a gap tiny again.


texts: Why not have the bearings in the forks themselves with through-axles?

texts:
Given that we're moving away from QRs to through-axles - partly driven by the torque needs of disc brakes, why not follow the natural progression and move the wheel bearings from the hub to the forks themselves.

Generally you want bearings as close to the load as possible. Having them in the fork is as close as one could hope. It'd also allow the axle to be very thick, which would add strength.

Given that every idea in bicycling has been tried at least once, has this been done before? What are the demerits of such an idea?


texts:
What is the reason for pedal straps? They look as if they are more awkward and I can't see what the benefits are.

I can't remember the last time my feet slipped off my mountain bike, so why would they on a road bike?


texts: Using 16 hole front rim to build a rear wheel

texts:
I have the opportunity to buy 2 front Shimano Dura Ace C40 latest generation wheels at a very cheap price. The hole count for the wheelset is 16/21. Could I build / have built a rear wheel from one of the front rims, for example using a 32 hole rear hub or is 16 hole too fragile for a carbon rear rim?

I don't have the hub yet, but from research I assume this is the most equilibrated option, correct? With these, do you think I would need new spokes or can I reuse the ones which come with the 16 hole hub? One of the patterns I saw could work, it doesn't require any crossing. Maybe the rear hub could interfere a bit though? The video corresponding to the screenshots supposedly is a professional wheel-builder as he was a making a project for a 16 hole rear wheel, tough steel / aluminium one.

There is also a review from CyclingTips comparing the new generation wheelsets with the old ones. There is a part where they say only the rear tubular version rim is asymmetric.


texts:
A couple of months ago I went for a professional bike fit on a jig. They were struggling to find a bike to fit me perfectly (5ft1 female). They ended up ordering me a cyclocross bike.

The bike has cut time off my commute and is a dream...until I have to stop or start. I have absolutely no clearance between the top tube and my crotch. My feet touch the floor with difficulty when standing over the bar. I'm wobbling all over the place when stopping and it feels quite dangerous in traffic, I thought it would get better with practice.

Can I get smaller tyres, would this make my bike slightly lower? Or is this something I need to get used to and practice? Are there any modifications I can do? I'm a complete beginner so no idea if this is normal, I rode a rickety 25yr old mountain bike before this.


texts: How do I install drop bars on my trek earl?

texts: I'm new to doing bike stuff, but I want to install drop bars on my single speed 2012 Trek Earl, how would I go about doing so? What things would I need to take into account before getting started?


texts: Cube stereo 150 race "do not clamp" warning

texts:
I have the following warning on my (carbon) CUBE stereo 150 race (2019) :

  Ultra thinwall tubeset
  DO NOT CLAMP

Currently I clamp my bike like this, and make sure that there is nearly no force applied. The rubber on the clamp keeps it from sliding away:

Does thinwall tubeset means that the entire frame of my bike should not be clamped or only where my dropper post is? If so, how am I supposed to perform maintenance on it?

ps: there seems to be no manual for CUBE 2019 bikes.


texts: Can I take my bike on the New York City subway or buses?

texts: Do I need a folding bike to do this? What are the rules? Also, even if it's allowed, is it practical to do so? Subways get pretty crowded during rush-hour, and it's hard to imagine taking a bike there even if it's allowed.


texts: Why can't Yellow Jersey change hands on last day of Tour De France?

texts:
I've often read / seen on TV that the race is won by the end of the penultimate day. For example, this article in the Guardian describes this year's (2011) eventual winner as the champion elect in an article on the close of the penultimate day. The final day seems to be left to the sprinters.

Why is this? Surely if the top two riders are very close the guy in second place can go for it.


texts: What is the narrowest tire you would use for commuting?

texts: Speed isn't so much of a factor, obviously, but the lower the rolling resistance the less sweaty I am when I get there. Then there's flats to consider. Basically the tire has to never get them because I can't be late. So what size would you ride?


texts: Will a SLX fit on a Shimano deore 2x10 rear triangle?

texts: Ok so I'm thinking about upgrading to a SLX drivetrain, and I currently have a Shimano Deore Xt 2x10 on my Devinci Troy. The question is whether it is even worth it cause the cassette may be too wide for my chain/seat stay triangle. Definitely need the upgrade as I do enduro riding and the 2x10 is a hassle. Never done this before. I can also just get a new chainring up front and a bigger range 10 cog cassette in the back, but I would like to go to something a lot nicer.


texts: Shimano Steps ebike E010 and E012 errors: DIY fix possible?

texts:
My Shimano Steps-powered e-bike is frequently but irregularly giving me the errors E010 and E012. In the E6000 Series Dealer’s manual and E8000 Series User's manual I found the following:

  E010:
  A system error was detected.
  Power assistance is not provided during riding.
  Press the power button of the battery to turn it on again.
  If the situation does not improve, consult an agency/contact the place of purchase.

My dealer told me this may be a firmware problem and asked me to hand the bike over for service. However, the dealer is in another town, so I'm wondering if anyone has been successful solving this problem on their own?


texts: Dynamo, Difference between trans am and tour divide

texts:
Mike hall used dynamo on his tour divide record.

He didn't use dynamo on his trans am record.

What would be the differentiating factor to use or not to use dynamo?
My guess is that trans am route has more service stations you can charge your batteries?

edit

He says he's not using dynamo in a vid, but I think he might have changed his mind before actual run..

If you look closely at the front hub, it is not thick.. dynamo hub seems to be thicker.. (http://bikepacker.com/mike-hall/)


texts: On a bottom bracket, what does the numeric expression e.g. 1.37x24 mean?

texts: On a bottom bracket I can read 1.37x24 - what do 1.37 and 24 stand for?


texts: Can tire sealant be used in anti-decubitus cushion?

texts:
I know this is odd question because it is related to wheelchairs (which at least have two wheels :) and use of sealant.

Anyway, my father in law use anti-decubitus cushion (similar to the one picture) in order to prevent wounds from prolonged sitting in his wheelchair. However, there are frequent punctures which are hard to fix. These cushions are also very expensive so he is trying to avoid buying new one (current one is just few months old).

Cushions comes with few self-adhesive patches but those can't be applied very well to narrow surfaces between cells. I've even tried to use bike tire repair kit (patches and glue) but glue doesn't stick to material from which cushion is made (some kind of coated rubber).

I was wondering if tire sealant can be used in this case? Are there any other products or advice how to solve this problem?

Any help is greatly appreciated.


texts: Anyone know of a comfortable seat that is compatible with Giant Bikes?  I took my seatpost to walmart to try and fit the seatpost with the bell gel seatpost with shock absorbers, Had high hopes for this one but the two rails did not line up with the bracket on my bike.  Trying to cut down on the impact from bumpy roads..and I already have biking underwear.


texts: Which countries have employed rail biking in their armed forces?

texts:
Can anyone tell me which counties have employed rail bikes in their armed forces? I remember seeing pictures of soldiers riding the rails on bikes, but cannot recall any details of them.

Rail biking on abandoned rail tracks!

A rail bike set to go!


texts: I remember I saw somewhere new Sram system that does not require chainguide. Don't remember the model, but could you please tell me more about it? How does it work?


texts: Maintenance/Upgrades for Gary Fisher Joshua MTB

texts:
Let me start from the beginning:

About three years ago, I broke my leg after buying a Gary Fisher Joshua MTB, when I was just getting into road and cross-country riding. I've only started riding again recently, and the chain is slipping etc and the gear selector won't go into the top cog on the rear. It's my own fault for leaving it static and not at least having it serviced whilst it was in my garage. So I've decided to rip the drivetrain apart and start again.

Question: Can someone help be identify what gear shifters to buy, as well as how to replace the front cogs (3 cogs & crank, rear 8 cogs), derailer and rear mechanical bits, and obviously the chain?

I like the look and feel of the Shimano Alivio components, would those be good for this kind of riding?

(Future work: I will probably change the front shocks and rear suspension bit as well as new handle bars and grips/barends too. The wheels and tyres are pretty much brand new, have only ridden about 150 miles.)

enter image description here

Also, the reason for changing is that it all looks a bit naff. The two silver tubes at the top of the shox are corrording also, so will probably get a new front end also.

I need help on the front derailer, and rear mech if possible.  I have ordered a new rear cassette (Shimano HG31 11 30T) and new crank and chainset (Shimano Alivio MTB 42T 170 BLK) and Shimano shifters (St-M410 Aliio STI).  I'm looking at Shimano Deore V-Brakes also as the ones on the bike are starting to corrode. This ia all my own fault for not looking after the bike when I was off.

I need some advice on front/rear shocks - handlebars etc.

Also, it may sound stupid, but where can I get the bikes bolts from?  As the ones on are proper rusty and look a mess!


texts: Can I fit a 105 crank arm (stages) to a Claris 2400 crankset?

texts:
I currently have a Specialized Secteur with a Shimano Claris 2400 crankset (compact). I'd like to buy a Stages power meter but they do not sell Claris crank arms.

Can I simply put a 105 crank arm on a Claris crankset?


texts: Can anyone tell me if this men or womens bike and possibly model?

texts: This bike is dirt cheap and fits my needs. I don't want to ask the seller too many questions and then discover the bike is worth more and not sell it. Im picking it up tomorrow for a steal. Question is this a girl bike and possibly does anyone know model outside scwhinn sierra? I cant find a similar picture of any bike so i cant I.D. any help would be appreciated.


texts: Removing top cap and stem from Acros headset?

texts:
I recently bought a used Canyon Ultimate that has an Acros headset on it. I'm trying to remove the stem but for the life of me can't figure out how to take it off. The top cap doesn't have a vertical bolt but instead is just hollow.

I've removed the stem bolts and the stem freely rotates on the steerer tube,but I can't take it off because of the top cap. I've never encountered this type of headset before, surely I must be doing something stupid?

Picture of what I mean:


texts:
I have a 25 year old Colnago road tandem on which  I would like to update the brakes.

The problem I am having is that they are 27" rims and I can't find a proper brake setup that will work.

What brakes will work best?


texts: Why should the outside disc brake pad be closer to the rotor than the inside one?

texts:
According to this link, the distance between the inside, stationary disc pad and the disc brake rotor should be twice the distance between the rotor and the outside, moving disc pad.

Why should the stationary disc pad be further away from the rotor than the moving disc pad? From what I understand, the rotor flexes towards the stationary disc pad when you brake. Wouldn't increasing the former distance increase the amount of flex? Is that desirable? Would it not cause unnecessary strain on the rotor?


texts: Levels of derailleurs, freewheels and chains

texts: What are the levels of derailleurs (Shimano probably) I know Altus and Acera but don't know the higher end ones. I am putting this on my Sondors Fat ebike. I will be using a 7 speed freewheel, and a single sprocket in the front. 750 watt motor, 52 volt battery so I need strong chain, freewheel and derailleur. Thanks in advance.


texts: Upgrading from TRP to Shimano disc brakes

texts: My wife purchased an Ultegra 8020 groupset for my birthday present. Unfortunately the brake calipers do not line up with the mounts on the frame, fork is 74mm, frame is 51mm. Are there adapters so I can mount the Shimano brakes? the holes on the Shimano mounting plate are slightly closer than 74mm.


texts: How can I install a 1 1/8" to 1 3/8" Synapse fork onto a 44 mm headtube?

texts:
I know you get headset questions all the time, hopefully this one mixes things up a bit. I recently acquired a 2015 litespeed CX frame, which has a 44 mm head tube.  It is listed as having a height of 12 cm. I picked up a fork, from a Cannondale Synapse 2018, size 58.
To my great surprise, the fork is listed as having a 1 1/8" to 1 3/8" tapered steerer.  The headset on the Synapse is listed as a "Synapse Si". Most sites I have found are about trying to fit an alternate fork into a Cannondale headtube, as opposed to the other way around.  I have found the following webpages:
https://www.cannondaleanswers.com/definitive-guide-cannondale-frame-headset-fork-compatibility-for-mountain-bikes/
https://cannondaleexperts.com/products/cannondale-synapse-carbon-1-3-8-tapered-headset-no-crown-race-k35038?variant=31365859639433
Is there any way to get this fork onto my 44 mm headtube?
Thank you!


texts:
I have a Road bike with a Shimano 8 Speed Freehub.

I want to go to a single speed bike, but I'd rather not use a fistfull of spacers.
Is anyone aware of a single speed freehub body that I can replace my Shimano freehub body with?

If it matters, Shimano freehubs are the lose ball bearing types.


texts: how to reassemble mountain bike rear wheel hub and bearings

texts:
So I thought I would sort out my wheel bearings (after asking a few questions here first).  Did the front without much of a problem, (reused the existing bearings at the moment, had not got round to going to the LBS to get new ones).  I tried to do the rear wheel tonight.

So I got the wheel off, took the quick release out.  undid one side of the axle (disk brake side I believe), took out the bearings etc.  I noticed that a few of the bearings from the cassette side had fallen out while taking the other side off. I then used the chain whip and other bit thing (who's name I can not remember) to eventually undo the cassette (was on real tight).  Took everything apart (trying to remember the order, even placing things in rows of where it came from) and cleaned it all up.  Went to put it back together again and I can not figure out at all (not with any confidence) how the bearings go into the cassette side under the locking nut (think its called that, the bit that comes off with the chain whip and tool).

Here are all the bits and the wheel.  Think I may have to admit defeat and go the LBS to get it sorted but they had a 5 or so day wait.  I am hoping someone might be able to guide me in the right direction to get this working again please.

Thanks

If anyone else has this problem here is a picture of the final way I assembled it:


texts: Bottle dynamo wiring a headlight and taillight on 1980s bike

texts:
I'm restoring a 1980 DBS Winner bicycle, and I'm having trouble wiring the dynamo to the headlight and taillight. As a disclaimer, I know very little about electricity and wiring.

The dynamo has two outputs on the bottom, one is labeled S and the other is labeled B. There's a wire between the S and the headlight. From B, however, a wire goes directly to the frame itself (screwed-ish to the head tube). Below the crank is a similar screw-ish contraption, from which a wire goes to the taillight. I'm thinking the current is lead between these contraptions, via the steel frame.

None of the lights work when the dynamo is on. I tested the bulbs with a battery, they work. I've tested the dynamo output with a voltmeter, and it seems to work. I also tried connecting the wire from B to the side of the bulb in the headlight and the wire from S to the bottom of the bulb, which worked when the dynamo was on. Do both the taillight and the headlight need two wires each? I find it strange if that is the case, since the bike came with one wire to each light, and it's weird to remove only one wire from each for whatever reason, isn't it?

Update: Added some images.


texts: Rear derailer/chain skipping/shifting issues

texts:
I have a Shimano Tiagra derailer on my 9 spd cassette and it's been behaving really strangely.

On the road, when I attempt to shift to bigger cogs, the chain will struggle to move up, sits on the bigger cog for a moment, and then jumps all the way back down to the smallest cog (sometimes just 2nd smallest).

There is definitely a feeling of difficulty of movement coming through the lever when I try to shift.

However I have it in a stand right now and it shifts up and down, albeit awkwardly and noisily. I'm not sure how to make the proper adjustments if the issue isn't happening while the bike is stationary. It's working somewhat fine now, but once I get on the road, it's unhappy again.

I can identify the different parts of my derailer and have a feeling it's a problem with the cable tension, but I'm clueless as to how to address the issue.

Thanks, any advice will be a big help!


texts: Does effort require to pedal depend on the gear ratio or the gear inches?

texts:
I have a 20x1.75" 6-speed folding bike with 52x14-28t drivetrain. Even with the gearing at 52x14, ~3.71 ratio, I can still pedal uphill.

I also have a 700x25C fixed gear with 49x17t gearing or ~2.88 ratio. I have yet to try riding it on uphills so I'm not sure if it's going to be difficult to pedal with that gearing.

I know that the gear inches depend on the ratio multiplied by the diameter of the wheels. Given that, I know that the gear inches of my folding bike is at around 74 while the fixed gear is at around 79. But which one actually determines how hard it is to pedal, the gear ratio or the gear inches? If it is the gear inches, would 5 inches higher be that significant? If it is, I'm thinking of getting an 18t or 19t cog.


texts:
Two years ago, I got hit by a car. I was fine, but my bike's fork and front tire were destroyed, so I got a new bike. Now this bike has been sitting outside for 2 years. If I wanted to replace everything but the frame, what would I search, and where would I get the parts? Assume I know nothing about bikes, but I'm very handy with tools. I also have access to a machine shop and any "normal" tools, but the only bicycle-specific tool I have is a chain tool and tire levers. I imagine it's probably not worth it (financially), but I think it's worth it to learn more about bikes and bicycle repair. Also, I welcome any other tips, suggestions, or advice.

Note: I brought the bike to a shop. They were skeptical I'd be able to salvage the frame, but they inspected it and concluded it wasn't damaged.

Edit: I'm in Boston, MA, USA


texts:
I live in a very wasteful student neighborhood, and just found a lightly-used Kona Lisa DS (ca 2007ish) with Hayes Sole hydraulic disc brakes in the garbage. After a thorough dusting, it's in great shape, and I'm ecstatic.

The brakes, however, fail to stop (or even slow) the bicycle unless pumped repeatedly. I can depress both levers fully and wheel the bike around with little to no resistance. If I pump the levers repeatedly, both front and rear brakes seem to gain the pressure they need, and begin to function as expected. I'm not sure they're working well, as I'm terrified to ride the thing in this condition, but they are working much better. Release the levers, wait a few seconds, and I'm back at square one.

Notes: This is occurring after giving the brakes a full bleed. (Both brakes were also useless prior to the bleed.) I am new to teching hydro brakes, but know my way around a wrench and think I did a reasonably good job. This is a pressure issue, not a pad/rotor surface issue.

Why is this happening?
Is this repairable? If so, how?
Given the age of the brakes, and my very limited student budget, is this worth repairing?

Thanks for your help and experience,
Chris


texts: Is it possible to install a 1x11 drivetrain on an old MTB?

texts:
I have an old Stumpjumper from 1984. It has the original 3x5 drivetrain with friction shifting. I'm intrigued by the idea of converting to a 1x11 drivetrain, but I don't know what factors to consider regarding the feasibility of doing this. At least on paper, it looks ok since doing something like 36T x 10-42T would give me about the same range of gears I currently have. Is it even possible to do 1x11 on an old bike like this? How do I determine this?

Update: I should have pointed out that my frame has 126mm rear spacing. It is steel, so it can accommodate a standard 130mm road hub or be cold set to take a standard 135mm MTB hub.


texts: Can I fit a RaceFace crankset with a SRAM bottom bracket (and how do I know)?

texts:
I have a bike with a SRAM BB https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-gxp-a1
I’d like to fit these cranks https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race-face-ride-narrow-wide-10sp-mtb-chainset/rp-prod113370
How can I know if they will fit? Are there any other questions I have to ask before I can know for sure?


texts: What's the safest way to turn left from a right-side bike lane?

texts:
(United States road configuration and customs here. Sorry, those of you who drive on the left!)

On my trip home, I use a bike lane near the right side of a very busy one-way arterial street; there is a bus/right-turn lane between the bike lane and the curb. I need to turn left, crossing three lanes of traffic, at a T-intersection (no street to the right). My options are:

Turn left directly from the bike lane.
Keeping a weather eye on traffic, move into the left-hand lane and turn from there.
Veer right onto the sidewalk (avoiding buses, obviously); wait for the pedestrian light to cross.

Which of these is the canonically correct way to manage, assuming heavy car traffic?


texts: How do I know if the tandem bicycle I've inherited is worth repairing? It has a serial # 459310 on it, no other identifiers

texts: I've inherited a vintage tandem. It looks as if it has been spray painted, and has no identifiers, etc remaining on the frame. The serial # on the bottom reads -459310. Any ideas on a make or model, and whether this is worth reparing? It needs a total re-work from the shredded tires up through the rusty chain and the dry-rotted seats and rusted handlebars...not a pretty picture if you get the drift.


texts: How to make a 1x city bike easier to ride uphill?

texts:
I'm trying to convert an old city bike (https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/2010/trek/navigator10wsd#/us/en/2010/trek/navigator10wsd/details) for my middle-aged mother who did not do any sports so far. There are a lot of slopes in our town, so I want the gear ratio to be as "easy" as possible.
As you can see in the link, the bike has a 1x 42t front chainring and the cassette goes up to 34t.
How would you do it? The following is what I think:
I believe 34t is ok, but 42t is too much. I looked for other 1x systems but no one sells a 1x chainring with 22t or 24t.
Then I decided to buy a 2x or 3x system with a smallest chainring of 22 or 24t and fixing it to that lowest chainring using a front derailleur and limit screws. (You may ask why am I not installing a full 2x/3x system with gear levers and cables: I really do not think she will need the bigger chainring, and there is no routing for the front derailleur cable. If she starts to ride a lot and needs that second chainring I may think about it.)
Do you see any problem with my solution?
To avoid the chain being not linear when the smallest ring is used in the cassette, is it better to buy a 2x system? (Is smallest chainring of the 2x systems are closer to the right side, compared to 3x systems? I guess that would help to keep the chain linear.)


texts: I have a vintage Schwinn Traveler made approximately 1985. I have been trying to learn more about the bike through the serial number and head badge.  However I can't seem to find difinitive information.  I located the serial number:  SC507898, but the two letters at the beginning don't match any date code listed on any of the sites the last serial numbers and how to decode them. The head badge also has a number on it: 1025 which would put it as made the 102nd day of either 1975 or 1985. This confuses me though because the head badge days Chicago, but I thought I read somewhere that the Chicago factory was closed in 1982.  The bike is a Schwinn Traveler.  Given all this information, can someone help me find out exactly the year the bike was made?


texts: What happens if a tire goes flat while I am in a fast turn?

texts:
So, the other day, I was riding along and got a flat tire.  I was at the bottom of a large hill where I often find myself travelling 30 or more miles per hour (as per my speedometer) about it's many curves.  The tire came off very easily when I was trying to repair it.

Has anyone had this happen to them? How likely am I to die?  Surrounding terrain is quite hostile.


texts: What's wrong with my rear wheel? Wheel moves about 1/4" front to back when brake is fully applied, cassette seems a bit wobbly, some rubbing noise

texts:
I first started inspecting my wheel because I noticed when I applied my brake while not riding, I could push my rear end and the wheel would turn forward and back about 1/4"-1/2" each way (but the brake is still locked tight) . I took my wheel off and saw that my DT Swiss center lock was loose, so I bought a Park BB tool and tightened it up, but I still have the problem but less now. I see that the wheel is moving @ the center lock just a bit.

Then as I was messing around with the bike upside down, I noticed that my cassette is wobbling ever so slightly.. Is it possible/probable that this is related? There is also some rubbing noise that is not coming from the brake that is difficult to locate.

Is this likely my axle? Hub? Cassette? Thanks!!


texts: Shimano Sora rear derailleur install, U-ring on bolt

texts:
I had a slight bend with my mech hanger so I took off the rear mech to get the hanger out and fixed.

Now that the hanger is fixed, I noticed a U-shaped ring around the bottom of the bolt on the rear mech is preventing me from fully tightening the mech to the hanger.

There is a opening on the top that seems to fit around the hanger but because of the ring, the mech is not fully engaged and the opening's edge ends up scratching the hanger.

Any ideas?

Thank you

Update:

Not the best angle but this is what it looks like when screwed in furthest. Ring is still in groove and B-screw is on tab.

From here if I were to increase B-screw angle, that open would move over and scratch the hanger, which didn't seem right to me but I couldn't find anything about this from Shimano manuals.

Just tried to align both open ends, still a gap there.

More info: Not the best angle but this is what it looks like when screwed in furthest.

@Argenti, yes ring is still in groove and b-screw is on tab.

From here if I were to increase b screw angle, that open would move over and scratch the hanger, which didn't seem right to me but I couldn't find anything about this from Shimano manuals.


texts: Is there excessive lubricant on my new rear derailleur?

texts:
I just received a new Shimano Deore rear derailleur, which has large gobs of lubricant in two locations (one clearly visible in photo). This seems excessive.

Do I leave it, or are they expecting you to wipe the excess away before installing?


texts:
I've got a Specialized Crosstrail Elite. I want to get rid of the front derailleur and go for a single front chainring.

Its a 68mm BB shell but needs a 73mm BB with spacers. It currently has a FSA Modular VDrive Crankset, 44/32T. FSA only do a Modular single chainring which is 38T. I'm looking to go larger, minimum of 44T.

I'm looking at changing the crankset to Shimano, including the BB. If I want a bigger chainring, I'll need to go for a road crankset, but because road cranksets run on a 68mm BB I won't get the clearance at the chainstays. The spindle length isn't as long as MTB cranks.

If I go with an MTB crankset, I can't seem to get a chainring over 38T. Which is two small. I'd also need to run a narrow-wide ring to decrease the risk of chain drop.

I'm going around in circles


texts: Do 27.5" wheels fit a 29" mtb? The 29er is with disc brakes. If they fit, is there any other problem


texts: How to maintain the bicycle after a commute, when not home?

texts:
When I commute, which is a 20 minutes bicycle trip, I'm able to park the bicycle indoors at a facility, where I can rinse water off of it. See my other question regarding whether or not this is a good idea: Should you hose down your bicycle after having used it on salty roads?

However, I'm given the impression I should not only rinse off of it, but also lubricate the drivetrain after doing so. To do this twice a day is a stretch, but if I'm going to consider doing that on top of rinsing salt water off of it. What should I bring?

This artificial limitation of "one item" is not meant as a joke, I'm sorry, but I simply don't have the energy or time to do full maintenance of the drivetrain after such a short commute. But a simple spray or oil is perhaps possible to add to my routine.

I'm sure others find themselves in a somewhat similar situation, perhaps not with a facility to rinse off the bicycle, but nevertheless perhaps could bring one small spray or similar to maintain the bicycle with after every commute.

So the routine in my case is: commute on roads with salt and debris, rinse the bicycle with cold freshwater at low to medium pressure. Then, what?

What should I bring, how should I use it (chain, entire drivetrain?), and why?

WD-40? Oil? Just a rag? Some other spray?


texts: How to find the serial number on a 26 inch Jamas Trail X mountain bike

texts: Jamas Trail X powered by Fuze how can I tell what the year on the serial number is of the bike, and also would like to know about what it’s worth so again it’s a 26 inch Jamás trail X powered by Fuze the front shocks are 191 omnis it has a SRSunTour Kranks and sprocket it has SRAM Dash SX for back brakes with One to one Actuation ratio Andis SRAMSX4 back shifter it also has a SRAMSX 424 speed shifters on XC riser handlebars with tech trough front brake levers and it is also a 7005 aluminum frame


texts: Might be bit of a silly question really as there are many different calipers designed specifically around rotor size like the old hope IS mount calipers but here goes. Specifically for long travel forks 200mm is there a minimum rotor size or would it just depend on personal preference and riding style? Obviously you wouldn't use a 200mm travel fork in a daily commute bike nor would you run a 160mm rotor on a downhill beast.


texts: Hi I bought a used downhill bike with a 2009 Marzoochi 66RCV fork. I hear a gushing sound whenever I compress the forks. At first I thought it was oil but am just wondering and don't want to ruin anything. Is there anything i can do besides taking apart the fork. Thank you for any answers.


texts: Dropped the Wedge of a quill stem in the head tube

texts:
Trying to remove a seized quill stem and did a beginner's mistake of removing the stem bolt.
I could not thread back the bolt.

Is there a better way to thread back the bolt to the wedge for me to start all over again the process of removing the quill stem?

Thanks


texts: Wax lubricant - what components need wax applied to them, and what is the recommended re-application procedure?

texts:
With a wax lubricant like paraffin or molten speed wax, what parts should have wax applied to them, and what is the recommended re-application process? I've heard some pretty different procedures being used by waxers out there:

Most information I've seen only mentions dipping the chains, and some only re-dip the dirty chain into the molten wax without any other cleaning first, as long as any oil-based lubricants have already been stripped from the drivetrain.

A mechanic I spoke to had concerns that the contact between the chain and other components wouldn't be adequately lubricated if only wax was applied to the chain.

Some people I've spoken with say that they clean the dirty wax off their chain before re-applying wax, in order not to contaminate the pot of clean wax. Solvents, ultrasonic cleaners, and hot water have all been mentioned.

Is there a general consensus on what components of the drive train need to have wax applied to them, and what the re-application process should involve?


texts: Frame differences between 700c and 29er?

texts:
Before you answer: no matter what bike I would change tires to 2" slick front, 2" semi-slick rear, so in other words, tires in this question does not play role (now I have 26" MTB and I use 2.35" to get the desired effect).

I am looking for three things:

max speed on the road in short distance (when you spill out your lungs)
maneuverability in city traffic (going between cars)
and taking long trips on hard surfaces comfortably (and safely)

How the frames of cross 700c bicycle and 29er affect those three factors?

I already noticed that since 700c have usually flat top tube of the frame falling from the saddle can hurt, 29er has more clearance -- so this a plus for 29er in terms of safety.

I don't consider downhill, going through mud, sand, big rocks, and on the other hand only smooth asphalt.

Update: example of cross 700c bike: http://sklep-romet.pl/index.php?route=product/product&path=61&product_id=64 and 29er as well: http://sklep-romet.pl/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=85&size=MTB%2029ER


texts: what are the widest 700c available(with kevlar)?

texts:
Is it possible to put wider tires on the wheels I have?
(original wheels on a Giant hybrid...GX-02 622 x 19)

I have 700c x 38mm(Schwinn kevlar tires now). I would like something similar...TIA


texts: Can frequent light bicycle commuting severely damage pants?

texts:
I bought a nice pair of pants to wear to work, and I am reasonably certain they were of good quality (although maybe I was mistaken) and I found that the seat of the pants was worn down to holes in less than a year of near-daily commuting. I commute by bike to my workplace and I don't bother changing because it's a leisurely 15 minute ride and I don't work up a sweat, even when wearing business-casual attire. I of course use the bike to go elsewhere but it is the same in that I don't "ride hard", so to speak.

One thing to note though is that the seat was leather but cracked so there were some sharp edges on the torn leather which may have contributed to the problem.

I'm just wondering if anybody else has had experience with pants becoming worn out in the seat due to only light riding, and with an undamaged seat, because it will make me more hesitant to wear work clothes on the bike in the future.


texts: Slight Difference in Spoke Tension Between Inner and Outer Spokes on Straightpull Hubs?

texts:
I recently built up my first set of straightpull wheels, with I9 hubs and traditional DT Swiss Competition spokes. (Hubs were from a I9 Trail S Hydra wheelset and are very much like DTs.)
Something I didn't expect, but ran into, is that when finishing up tensioning the wheels, it seemed like the inner and outer spokes on each side required a slightly different tension; about 1 number on a Park TM-1 tension meter.
This seems to makes sense because the spoke holes for inner vs. outer are a few millimeters different when it comes to flange distance, and thus the inner (steeper bracing angle) spokes would likely have a slightly higher tension.
The wheels built up wonderfully and I had no problem getting to even tension, but it was a bit surprising at first because instead of having one final tension for each side of the wheel I had a (slightly) different for inner and outer spokes on each side of the wheel. For example, here's the numbers from the front wheel:

NDS (L) Inner: 22 (117 kgf)
NDS (L) Outer: 21 (105 kgf)
DS (R) Inner: 20 (94 kgf)
DS (R) Outer: 19 (85 kgf)

So my question: Is this normal?
Due to what's effectively a slightly different flange spacing it makes sense, but I wasn't able to find anything about it searching around online, so maybe it's just one of those things that's understood/accepted by more experienced wheelbuilders?
(If it's useful I have a full writeup on that build here.)


texts: Does drafting cause resistance to the lead rider?

texts:
I know that when riding close to another cyclist, I expend less energy to go the same speed. But does the Conservation of Energy "law" mean that the lead cyclist is going to expend more energy to allow me to expend less?

(i.e. Is there a physical reason to get angry at someone drafting behind you? Does riding in their slipstream cause drag for them?)


texts: How do I increase my cycling duration or distance limits?

texts:
I am a student thus hardly get time to go on tours or hiking! In an average I cycle around 6-10 km per day but in holiday times I go for a trip around the city on my MTB for around 100km ride and trying my best to decrease the time required.

However I rode for 200km recently and I am worried about any chance of physical damage for going on long tours without regular practice? Are there any restrictions on total hours or distance of continuous cycling?

N.B: I am having a pull in my Achilles Tendon and it hurts!


texts: Disc brakes on leader doberman which has no tabs and adaptors

texts:
I have a leader doberman with a front disc brake that I want to install on the rear. I know that it hasn't a rear disc brake tab, but I have found an adaptor for the caliper (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Disc-brake-bracket-frame-adaptor-3-sizes-for-140-160-180mm-rotor-free-gift-/271571281671?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&var=&hash=item3f3ae8e707)

Now I don't know how to mount the rotor, but I have found something to mount it (http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-bike-double-hub-nut-ISO-44mm-thread-Disc-brake-rotor-adaptor-mount-left-Alum-/281474670783?pt=US_Chainrings_BMX_Sprockets&hash=item418932a0bf).

But is this compatible with my rear hub? What can I do? Only to stich it with glue or there is a solution?

I have the classic Shimano gear levers. Will I have to change the shifters to install hydro disc brakes?


texts:
This question raised a new sub-problem of which I was not at all aware of.

I carry a heater to boil the water before I drink it but I am unsure whether it removes all dirt from water. Please, note the water may contain some mineralization (noted in the earlier question). There are different types of tools to test for different mineralization such as arsenic but probably many others. Please, teach/show how to handle water during touring.

Helper questions

How do you maintain your water?
How to operate with water bags?
How to maintain water-containers?

Related questions

Water tests during travelling? - a general question here.
How do you carry the water suitable for touring? Answered here.


texts:
I’m trying to measure a cyclocross bike. I’m 172 cm, leg length 77.5cm.

Some websites like ebicycles say that my bike frame size is 53cm.

I’m already looking for this bike with seat tube 54cm.

A gravel bike that can be easily a touring bike for long travels.

What would be the problems of getting this bike?

Thanks!


texts: How to set up bike so that back-pedalling stops the rear wheel?

texts:
My first bike was a 1976 Raleigh Strika. It was brilliant and was distinguished by having only a front brake lever. To get the rear wheel to stop one simply back-pedalled. This was a v. efficient way of stopping and had the bonus of making your bike skid in a most excellent way.

I have a simple 8-speed hybrid mountain/road bike now  and was wondering if anyone knew if there was any way of modding it to replicate the behaviour of my beloved Strika. I guess I might lose my gears after such an alteration, but I can live with that.


texts: Am I too heavy for my Trek 7200 multitrack?

texts: I was wondering if I'm too heavy for my bike. I'm about 260lbs (118kg). I keep getting flats.


texts: Allen Coggan Table - Formula for a best fit to time frames

texts:
I'm sure lots of people are familiar with the Allen Coggan Relative Power table that then relates your 'score' to what category rider you are.

My question is that given rides/segments/hill climbs are rarely exactly 5 seconds/1 minutes/5 minutes or an hour long, what formula is required to adapt a known relative power reading to each of these 'time-frames' for comparision?

For example:

I have a hill that took 8 minutes and 15 seconds to ride up and have a relative power reading of 3.23 w/kg for that effort. What would this reading be for 5 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes and 1 hour of effort?

Hopefully someone could help out :)


texts: What's the best way to stow (winter storage) an all-carbon bike?

texts:
As the number of bikes in the house grows, storage becomes more of a problem.  I have some hooks that I hang my touring bike and the gravel bike on (hanging from the front rim), but they both have durable aluminum rims.
I now have to find a way to store a new all-carbon road bike, one that has aerodynamic carbon rims, a carbon seat-post, etc.  I don't want to leave it sitting on the floor, lest I forget to keep the tyres pumped up.  I don't want to hang it from a hook, since I'm sure that's not how the rims are expected to be loaded.  I could use a clamp to hold it by the seatpost, but again since that would leave it under a certain amount of torque for months, I'm not comfortable with it.
A quick search didn't turn anything obviously better, and I thought it best to ask for suggestions before trying to bodge something together.


texts: Bicycle computers with nonvolatile memory

texts:
The one thing that keeps me from pulling the trigger on some bike computer is the lack of information about the odometer, the lifetime mileage on the bicycle. When you change the battery in your car, your electronic dash odometer doesn't go to zero. It would be stupid. When my Samsung Note 4  battery dies right in the middle of something, I remove and replace with my hot spare and it remembers right where it left off. I've been told not all bike computers are nonvolatile like this.

Which cycle computers are able to remember information when the battery is changed? Or better yet, is there someplace in the spec sheet or other way to find out if it has non-volatile memory without buying it?


texts:
I'm pretty heavy (~150kg/330lbs) but being fond of cycling in the past, I decided to buy a bike, and maybe try to lose a few kilos with it. I didn't have too much time for looking around, so I bought a used (but in excellent shape) Scott Aspect 20 from some guy living close by.

Now I'm wondering if the tires/wheels can hold me, and what pressure should I pump the tires to.

The rims are Alex TD17 32H and the tires are Schwalbe Hurricane 26x2.0 (2.5-5.0 bar). I'm planning to ride within the city (so mostly paved surfaces, maybe a few unpaved sections here and there).


texts: Will any Shimano V brake fit any v brake lever and any v brake bike?

texts:
I need to replace the V brake on this bike:

It uses Shimano EZ FIRE 40 brake levers, and has Shimano V brakes installed (Tektro TK837).

Can I replace these V brakes with any other V brakes available on the market (E.g. Shimano Deore BR-T780 XT V-brake), or are there compatibility issues to consider?

More generally, if a bike already has V brakes installed and working, can I just go ahead and fit any V brakes I find without having to worry about whether they will fit?


texts:
I have bought a second hand bike and generally it's going well. However, there is a small amount of play in the headset that I've been trying to diagnose and resolve.

It's a threadless fork.

I've adjusted the tension by loosening the headstem bolts and tightening the top cap. I tighten it up a lot and this reduces the play a little, but when I brake hard or hit a bump I still get the 'clonk' as it moves to the limit of it's adjustability.

I've used this article on Sheldon Brown for the terminology I use below, particularly this photo:

I've taken some photos and have an idea of what the problem is. In this photo I've laid out from left to right the dust ring, followed by the compression ring.

When the compression ring is placed on the steerer tube, there is slight gap between them. It's maybe a millimeter, although I don't have anything to measure that with here. Watching the movement carefully I'm quite confident that it's this gap that's causing the steerer tube to clonk around.

I've measured the steerer and it's 28.6mm which is 1 1/8" according to Sheldon's site linked above.

So why is there a space around the compression ring? What's the best way to resolve this? Do I just need to find a smaller compression ring somehow? Or is there something I'm missing?

Updated: Added text to photo

Update

I think I'm missing a part. If you look closely at the exploded graphic from Sheldon, the compression ring has a gap in it, allowing it to shrink onto the steerer tube and hold it firmly. My compression ring is solid, so nothing can shrink and grip. Kudos to Zen as well, since he mentions that it's a wedge. I'm going to have a look around at home to see if I can find the missing bits. Otherwise a new headset should sort it. Thanks all!


texts:
I've got a bike with an ultra-old luggage rack which isn't of the kind which has a cheap spring-loaded "clasp" but rather an elastic tether which is permanently attached to the frame at the front and is held in place by its own tension on a metal hook at the back:

However, while working on the bike, I removed the rack and now don't know how to properly wrap the tether so that it stays tight: It used to have some sort of "sailor-esque" smart looping method which kept the hook at the end taut, but my landlubber self undid the knot and now doesn't know how to tie the tether properly, so now there's a huge amount of extra slack and the whole bit is loose. What sort of knot-fu do I need to make the tether taut on the rack?


texts: What should I do with a cracked titanium Lemond Tete De Course frame?

texts: I have a 2002 titanium Lemond frame.  Just found a crack on down tube. Bummed to not be able to ride it anymore.  Is it worth trying to repair (if it's even possible)?


texts: Why cant I unscrew the bolt from my top cap?

texts:
I have been trying to unscrew my top cap bolt to change the stem. I have been doing the unscrewing motion for more than 5 minutes and the bolt doesn't seem to come off.

Like I keep turning the key to the anti clockwise direction and the bolt keeps spinning and doesn't come off

Is it really stuck like that? Any solutions?


texts: How does one become an official for bicycle races?

texts:
What's the process? Are there classes? Fees? Do they get paid, or is it voluntary?

Edit based on comments:

I was hoping to get an overview of the process that wasn't based on any given country assuming that the ultimate goal was to eventually officiate at the highest levels, i.e., Olympics, classics, grand tours, etc. As these officials work internationally, there should be quite a number of similarities from between countries.


texts: How can I know if a crankset is compatible with my bike without physically seeing it?

texts: I'm using Shimano Tourney TX right now and would like to upgrade. I can only shop online and can't visit physical bike shops. I'm leaning towards SORA R3000 but I'm not sure if it has the same BB size as Tourney.


texts:
I've recently found a nice bike with a steel frame. Well I noticed the aluminium seatpost was stuck but had no idea how heavily. To be honest I never had a similar problem and underestimated that beast...

So here's my question.
I'm pretty sure the problem comes from the galvanic corrosion between the two materials, I understand that the post gets thicker due to this and therefore is stuck. Now I made some measurements of the seatpost diameter which gave me 27 mm which is correct.
Then I moved on to the frame, measuring the diameter just at the top and on a few positions further down. The result is, there's quite some variation: 29.7mm at top, 28.7mm further down. I've attached some photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Yt3s3ycS74GfBagA6

to me this sounds quite heavy and I would like to have your opinion what to try next:
a) try some chemicals
b) cut out the seatpost
c) sell the bike again (I wouldn't like to because I really like the frame, it's a Fuji Feather)

concerning a) I already tried WD40 without luck. I've got the hint to try ammonia:
Remove bottom bracket, having the bike hanging upside down fill the tube with ammonia and leave it for at least 2 weeks. Then there's hope to get it out.

concerning b) what tools would you suggest for such an act? How can I prevent to ruin the frame?

thanks in advance!


texts: What is considered a good "safe biking distance" to bike to work?

texts:
I'm curious about what is the maximum distance you can live from work so that it's a reasonable biking distance.

I am interested in biking about 30 minutes to work. It would be about 5 miles away. I have a heavy cruiser bicycle (Schwinn). It would be a leisurely ride.


texts: Lock nuts on new hubs seem strangely tight, but can't seem to loosen them. Any advice?

texts:
As part of a new build I'm working on, I just had some wheels built up. The hubs are large flanged Miche Primatos with a double-sided fixed wheel.

The rear wheel, straight out the box, seemed weirdly stiff — to the extent that I could barely move it at all, let alone for it to spin freely — so I gave the workshop a call for advice. They suggested the lock nuts were probably just overtightened, and that backing them off a bit would sort it out.

The Miche hubs have sealed bearings, and each side is held in place by both an outer and an inner lock nut. I tried to loosen the outer nuts a bit, but they wouldn't budge. I had to put in all my effort, wrenching in reverse directions on either side of the hub, to get them to loosen even a little, and it would only be in a quick, jerky motion, not smoothly unscrewing. Rather than gradually getting easier as I backed the nut down the axle's thread, it was still just as stiff as when I started. I'd managed to loosen the outer nut by a few millimetres, as shown below, but it was still really stiff (not the hub, but rather the nut on the axle). The force required was such that I quit until seeking further advice; I don't want to do something silly like strip the threads on my axle.

Also, you'll notice in the image that the outer nut is still tight against the inner nut and dust cap. These are three separate pieces, that should have to be removed individually. But here it is as though they've been forged out of the same piece of metal. I cannot loosen the outer nut without the inner one coming with it.

If anyone could help diagnose what's going on here, I'd really appreciate the help. Is it at all possible that the hub is in some way fault? Could the axle have damaged threads?


texts: Can aftermarket 32mm Dust Seals and Foam Rings be used on my Rockshox Recon?

texts:
My Rockshox Recon TK Silver 29 (2017) is long overdue a dust seal and foam ring replacement. It's been very difficult trying to find a Rockshox 32mm Recon Service kit, but I did manage to find some aftermarket dust seals and foam rings. The seller claims it's compatible with most Rockshox models, it's 32mm, it looks quite similar to my original dust seal and foam ring except for the Rockshox branding of course. My question is, how do I ascertain if it fits my fork? Do I only have to check if it's 32mm? Would you guys recommend me purchasing aftermarket ones or wait it out until I get authentic Rockshox ones?
Attached is a screenshot of the products in question.


texts: New chain - problems getting into low gears

texts:
SRAM GX 11 speed.

I snapped my chain last week.  Replaced with a fresh SRAM 11 speed chain.  I used my old chain as a guide to get the length on the chain right - but I can't swear it is a link longer or shorter as I rushed it.

I took the opportunity to replace the gear cable as well - but things are not good.  It's fine in high gears (small cogs) but after 5 or 6 gear changes there is a huge amount of tension in the system and it wont shift up further.

Could this be due to the chain length?  Or issues with the cable?  I have tried to pull in the cable to increase tension - even when taut it struggles to pull up the gears.


texts: What's the specific use in carrying a pump?

texts:
I've seen people fit tire/tyre pumps to their bikes. What's the use in that?

If I have a puncture it's usually a sizable hole in the tube, such as a piece of glass that pierced the tube.

I could image that the pump is for if you also carry a puncture repair kit, plus levers to get the tyre off. Is that the use in carrying the pump?


texts: What bike computer (speedometer) to get for mounting on the rear wheel?

texts:
I'm looking to get a bike computer, primarily for the speedometer function. I use my bike on a trainer most of the time, and I'd like to get "speed" from that, so the sensor needs to be on the rear wheel.

I'd prefer not to spend too much, but my budget is pretty high. Right now, the only feature I want is speed, but I'll learn to use any other useful features.

I've read this question, and gotten some interesting data, but I don't really care about whether the unit is wired or wireless. It just needs to reach the back wheel and be reliable.


texts: Are single chainring mountain bikes usual?

texts:
I just bought my son a typical+ mountain bike in a typical Frech sports shop (a BTWIN 530 at Décathlon) and realized that it has only a single sprocket at the front, and 9 sprockets at the back:

I have never seen that before (not that I looked very much, but I am used to the 3 + ~7 combinations) and was wondering whether this is

usual
expected
unusual but why not
you have been scammed

I can, worst case, return the bike but Decathlon, while being a Mr and Mrs Everyone shop, is usually fine (I casually rode their bikes for years).
LATE EDIT: thank you for all the answers so far - in light of the excellent details I got there I should have probably noted that this is a bike for casual, usually on-road biking.
LAST EDIT: thank you for all the answers - this is really a great SE site. It was near to impossible to choose THE answer, sorry for the others where I could just +1 (the update on road usage was great, thank you)


texts: Braking one-handed to signal down steep traffic-heavy slope

texts:
I've just recently picked up biking and will be cycling to work when I start in a few weeks. One thing that's really bothering me on my route is a very steep hill that gets very busy during rush hour. At the bottom there's a traffic light where I have to turn right (I live in the UK, we drive on the left).

I've been doing the route off-peak to practice. Thus far it's been clear behind me each time, so I've just looked back and drifted right to position myself correctly before the right turn. However, if there's traffic behind me, I would not feel safe doing this manoeuvre without hand-signalling to the right.

Is it safe to just brake with my left hand on a steep hill? (I believe that's the rear brake on British bikes.) Can I initially brake with both hands then briefly take my right hand off to signal? I've literally never braked one-handed, so it kind of terrifies me. Sorry if these sound like dumb questions; I just don't want to get injured!

Thanks!


texts: Replacing crank rings 26/36/48 on XT T8000 with 22/30/40 SLX M7000

texts:
Are the crankrings interchangeable, will XT front derailleur work?
Bike set up all XT components. Want to improve gear inches. XT is not offering smaller crank rings.

The bike is all T8000 components. I will check for M8000 dérailleur.
I am assuming the chain ring are compatible.


texts:
Many of us pull bike trailers - whether one-wheeled or two-wheeled -- cargo or kids.

What is the best way to lock up trailers - especially when you're commuting? Most trailers come with a quick-release attachment to the bike, which means they're also easy to steal.


texts: I've just bought a second-hand Cycle Ops turbo trainer and was wondering how I can clean it and whether or not I need to get it serviced.


texts:
I have Sora front derailleur (bottom-pull), and I want to use friction shifter with it. I installed Dura Ace bar end shifters (on thumb shifter mount).

No matter how I adjust the tension the shifter doesn't hold position. It always pulls to the smallest chain ring. I wonder is there anybody who come across something this.

I begin to think the combination of derailleur and shifter is not compatible.
Any thoughts will be appreciated.


texts: Will a 26x1.50 or 26x1.25 slick fit on a rim that I now have with a measure on the tire 26x2.00 and the rims I have are 26inch bontrager AT-550?


texts: Hybrid bike stolen, trying to weigh factors for how to replace

texts:
I had my 2006 Trek 3700 stolen from my apartment today. I reported it to the police and should be getting at least a small amount of money from renter's insurance. It was locked with a Kryptonite combination cable lock to my front porch. They did not cut the rails of the porch, and the lock was not there anymore. My conclusion is that either they figured out the combination somehow or cut the lock. I use my bike to commute to work (about 15 min. bike ride on a community bike path), so I need to replace it ASAP. I'm trying to weigh a few factors:

-I don't want to spend too much money on it, for a couple reasons. One, I don't want to attract more thieves when I have to lock it up, though I'll try to bring it inside more and get a better lock. Two, my bike that I paid $270 for in 2006 has served me just fine.

-I'm not comfortable buying a used bike.

-My previous bike was very heavy, and I live on the second floor, so a lighter weight bike would enable me to store in my apartment (and at my office) rather than locking it up on the porch or bike racks at work. I realize this would probably cost more, though, and contradicts the "avoiding theft" when I do have to lock it up to meet people elsewhere.

-While a lighter bike would allow me to keep it safer from theft, I did prefer the mountain bike style of not having drop handles, and I like the shock absorption of all the potholes we get on the east coast, and mountain bikes (or even hybrid bikes) are heavier.

Are there any lighter weight mid-price-range hybrid bikes that you could recommend? Or something else that balances my above concerns?

Thanks so much.


texts: Replacing an 8-speed cassette with a 9-speed one to make my bike faster

texts:
I'd like to make my 8-speed tokyobike Classic Sport city bike go faster so I'm considering replacing the 8-speed cassette with a 9-speed one which can be found on the tokyobike Sport. The bike has smaller 650c wheels and is without a front derailleur.

My question is:

Is it a good idea? Or is there another, better way to make the bike faster?
How much faster will I actually be able to go?
What other parts beside the cassette will have to be replaced?


texts: Missing pin in replacement chainring, is it important?

texts:
This is related to Worn out chainring or missing tension
Today the chainring arrived, but it lacks a pin. The pin is 15mm (0.59") long with a diameter of 4.1mm (0.16"). It is located in such a way, that it points away from the bike, but is covered exactly by the crank arm.

I believe that its function is to prevent the chain to get stuck between the chainring and the crank arm, should the chain jump outwards from the chainring.
I fear that I bought the wrong replacement.
I bought this one Shimano FC-M523 / FC-MT500-3 10-speed Chainring for Chain Guards but maybe should have bought this one Shimano FC-MT500-3 10-speed Chainring (40 tooth variant). The latter was missing a proper picture (has only the 30 tooth variant) and was out of stock in all the shops I searched for.
Now I'm believing that the solution to my problem would be either to buy Shimano Chain Guard for FC-M4050 / FC-M4000 or just ignore the problem. Maybe you know of any other solution.

I had the chain guard in the shopping basket, but when I read about its function on biking forums, they were saying that it's just to keep the trousers clean, so I ditched it. But maybe it does have the function of the pin, but all around the chainring, which sounds like a solution.
Any comments or recommendations on what I should do? I wanted to assemble it today so that I can use it tomorrow, but I guess I'd be OK with waiting a couple of days to have a proper solution.

Update: The wear of the chain drop pin is as follows, which leads me to believe that just ignoring it probably isn't a good solution.

New idea: Would going to the hardware store and buying a screw with nut a reliable option?


texts: Are "V" brake rims safe to use with discs

texts:
I'm new to this forum and would like to ask if it is safe to use a V brake rim with a disc? I'm using Shimano Deore M555 hubs with discs laced to Mavic EX 721 32 hole rims and DB spokes. Apologies if this has been queried before.
Thanks in anticipation.
Paul C (Chaz)


texts: How do I attach this pump head to my Schrader valve?

texts: I am such an idiot, but I can't figure out how to attach this pump head to my Schrader valve.  The lever doesn't seem to flip up??


texts: Looking for a cycling jacket for Fall/Spring

texts:
I am looking for a cycling jacket for fall/spring.  Depending on how well it works I may use it through (part of) winter as well.

I did a bit of shopping last night and purchased this MEC SuperMicroft Cycling Jacket.

I brought the jacket home and began having second thoughts.  I am thinking about returning it and continuing my search.  Here are my requirements:

Cuts the wind
Will not become like sauna inside making me soaking wet
Has good road visibility
It doesn't have to be extremely waterproof but being able to fend of a light shower would be nice

My main concern with this jacket is the breathability.  It has pretty big armpit zips.  It is made out of "Super Microft™ microfibre polyester, which is soft and quiet like cotton but tightly woven and treated with durable water repellency (DWR) to shed water".  It feels like the fabric will cut through the wind well but might leave me very wet inside.  The jacket does not have any kind of back vent which may be problematic.

I am riding in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.  It has been pretty wet here lately.  I haven't riddin in the rain too frequently but the roads are always wet (thank you fenders).  The temperature I want to use this coat in would be about +7C to -2C and maybe colder if I can layer correctly.

Open questions:

What do you use when cycling in cool weather to keep the wind from chilling you and keeping the moisture away from your body?
Does anyone have any views on this jacket?  Would your recommend something else?


texts: Does it matter if I let my brakes drain when when taking system apart?

texts:
I'm going to be taking apart a Clarks Skeletal Hydraulic Brake system to try and identify what's wrong with it (trying to remove/unstick a piston), so I was wondering does it matter whether I just disconnect all the fluid cables to the caliper and let them drain, and then do a bleed/refill later?

Most videos I've seen of doing a brake fluid bleed, the system is usually still quite full of fluid, and I can't think of any reason why not but I thought I'd ask whether there's any problems with just emptying the system out.


texts: What to do with a bent but not broken aluminum seat stay

texts:
unfortunately I got hit by a car. I was on the main road, in the cycle way and the car had a stop sign coming out of a school. He did see me but got distracted by the kids. Anyway, I was wondering if you could help me out determine is my bike is safe to ride or I should do anything about it.
The rear fork is a bit bent but not broken and it's aluminum. It's a Cube SL bike.
Thanks in advance!


texts:
i recently took my bike to the LBS for brake service. Everything was fine until i noticed that the right lever (back brake) was leaking.

Every time i press the lever, it sort of "burps" a bit of oil and makes... funny sounds. (seen in picture 2)

I tried un-tightening the top cap, which really helped a lot but im not sure about the origin of the problem.
I should note that when i took it to the LBS for bleeding, the pads were 80% worn. After i replaced them, the problem appeared (the mechanic said it's fine if you do that, but i doubt it). I should also note that i torture them a lot.


texts:
I am presently riding a hybrid that apparently is a bit too small for me, and I'd like to replace it with a road bike. Having ridden this improperly-sized bike for as long as I have (about 8 months, including one MS150), I am interested in making sure that the next bike I buy is properly sized.

The sizing numbers published for different bike models are only somewhat helpful, because a 54cm bike, even of the same type, will fit different people depending on who made the bike. It would have been more helpful if the sizing was listed as a range of heights for riders (such as, "best fits riders from 175 to 185 cm").

Somewhat complicating the issue is that (as I have mentioned in another question) I am chronically short of funds, and there is a high chance that I'll be buying something off of Craig's List or some other such place. I don't want to waste the seller's time by trying the bike if there's any chance that I won't buy it. I'd much prefer to know when I show up to make the purchase that the bike is manufactured for a rider of my height.

The same goes for mail-order. If I go this route, I want a reasonable certainty that the bike is made for someone my size. I don't want to deal with the hassle of returning a bike that doesn't hit my own personal Goldilocks zone.

I'd also rather not trouble bike shop personnel to let me try a bike to see if the sizing is right unless I'm ready to buy from that shop (possible but by all means not certain); I like to think that I'm a golden rule sort of person and using their time in this way seems too much like taking advantage of them. However, if this is considered by them to be a cost of doing business, then it's not a show-stopper.

That all being said, what's the best way to go about finding what size bike will fit me best? (If it helps to be more specific, I'm mostly interested in a road bike.)


texts: Riding from San Francisco to Los Angeles

texts: I am planning a San Francisco - Los Ángeles bike trip next spring. Is it better to do LA to SF or SF to LA? Thanks, regards from Mexico City


texts: Does a carbon frame need two-bolt seat clamp?

texts:
Does a bike with an alloy seat post and a carbon frame need a seat post clamp with two bolts? Most clamps these days seem to be either quick release or single bolt. Is that safe to use with my set up?

I have read a little around the subject and not found any definitive answer.


texts:
This is for the Freewheel (Not Cassette Freehub) swapping problem.
I would like to know if it is feasible, regarding the axle breakage.
Assuming that I have:

Good clearance and spacing for freewheel
Matching derailleur and chain/chain line

Question:

Would it be likely for me to break the axle, or the hub, under power
pedalling?
Have anyone broke their hub or axle using freewheel with
inappropriate speed? (Please do not discuss in theory, I would like
to see reference or your own experience)


texts: Can the brake levers be moved from the side to the top of the handlebar?

texts:
My bicycle currently looks like this:

Can I move the brake levers from the side to the front, so it looks like this?

How do I go about it, and is it good idea? I'm new to riding this kind of a bicycle and I feel very uncomfortable leaning so far to the front to hit at the brakes!


texts: Front brake cable loose from barrel adjuster

texts: The cable for the front brake on a rim brake has come loose, and I can't get it to squeeze into the barrel adjuster screw properly.


texts: Is an old mtb with replaced gear safe to buy?

texts:
I believe this question to be on topic for this site, I want it to be more factual based than opinion, another similar question is this one. If its not feel free to close it.

I am looking at buying an older (10 yrs old) Giant NRS 1 MTB, it has very good reviews for the frame especially, but other parts have been replaced (it has a new front wheel, cables etc.). Should I be worried that other parts will be about to fall off, or are replacements a good thing?

EDIT: Ok so the wheel was replaced due to hitting a stump at night time, the cables were getting old, it has had plenty of action, but was well looked after. The rear sus has a tiny bit of play in the top bush (not enough to realise when riding)

It also has a leaking front fork, not a big issue (probably new seal, or not worry), but makes me wonder if it is worth it, will cost around $400 US ish, do you think it will have other issues?

cheers in advance!


texts: Picking bottom bracket and chain set for older mtb frame

texts:
I have  an old norco manik frame from 2006 and I need help picking bottom bracket and chainset.

I have been looking at Truvativ Hussefelt 1.1 DH Chainset at crc but how do I make sure the bottom bracket and chainset fit? The original bike spec just lists Truvativ Hussefelt as chainset, no specific bb is being mentioned.

Aiming at using this mtb as my winter bike not looking for exclusive parts.


texts: Are there any adjustments for hydraulic brakes?

texts:
I prefer stiff, touchy, on/off, brakes. When I was using mechanical disc brakes, I always adjusted them so that the pads were almost touching the rotor. This provided the short lever travel I was looking for, as well as great stopping power: I could lift the rear wheel if I pressed the front brake hard enough.

Now, I just got a bike with hydraulic disk brakes (SRAM Apex 1). They are rather soft by comparison. The pads don't touch the rotor until the lever has moved significantly. I can pull the front brake lever all the way to the bar, and I still do not get nearly as much stopping power as I did with the mechanical brakes with half the lever pull.

The modulation is great, but I would really like more stopping power and a firmer lever. Is there a way to adjust this?

In other words, I'm looking for something more like the third scenario in this image, and less like the second.

TLDR: Are there any adjustments for hydraulic road disc brakes (SRAM Apex 1) like there are for their mechanical counterparts?


texts: Shimano TZ rear derailleur cable entry at strange angle causing wire rub

texts:
I have a cheap (but very nice!) secondhand bike I bought that I am slowly servicing/repairing using YouTube, forums etc.
I am stuck on the rear derailleur, I can index it properly and it shifts fine, but if you see the attached photo the angle at which the cable goes from the barrel adjuster to the pinch bolt is very sharp and the cable is rubbing against the barrel adjuster. What am I doing wrong?


texts: Brand New bike, chain slips into spokes on first gear

texts:
I just bought my first bike as an adult with the intents of biking to work. This bike is brand new, is the Schwinn Admiral 700c from Walmart. I get it home and whenever I shift into first gear the chain slips off and runs into the spokes. How can I fix this? I'm brand new to bikes and want to know how to take care of them myself.

It happens regardless of the amount of force exerted. I can reproduce it 100% of the time. Brand new bike, no wear on chain or cassette (or freewheel).


texts:
I've recently started trail riding on my mountain bike and i love it, but my bike is really old (circa 1992 steel Trek with Deore LX). I really want to get a new one, but I'm also really attracted to cyclocross. Ideally i would just get two bikes, but I'm wondering if i could get just a 'cross bike and use it for trail riding.

How do i determine if a 'cross bike would work on the trails I ride? They're beginner / intermediate trails and I think a 'cross bike should be ok, but I have zero experience on a 'cross bike and don't really know.


texts:
I've been looking for a solution on this but couldn't find anything online. I have an Alfine 8 speed internal gear hub and it started skipping recently. I tried to use the barrel adjuster on the shifter to adjust, but the barrel adjuster got stuck and it won't turn in any direction anymore. Is there a way to fix this? I can still pull the barrel adjuster slightly (as if I am about to make an adjustment), and can turn in both directions a couple of millimetres, but it does not go forward more than that. Can I solve it by any means or should I just replace the shifter? This is the shifter by the way:

http://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SHIFTER-SL-S503-ALFINE-2100mmCABLE/dp/B00KV9SJ2Q/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1460402799&sr=1-16&keywords=alfine+shifter

Thanks!


texts: Any research (or reliable statistics) on benefits of making yourself more visible (blinking light even in daytime, bright colors)?

texts:
Someone just posted this on our local cycling list serv.

It's about Motion Induced Blindness. Their point was that fixing your gaze on something on the dashboard can blind you to things that are moving (like bicycle near you).

There are some things we can do to help this:

Wearing a bike light even during the day (flashing style)
Wear brighter colors
Maybe bright paint/decals on your bike.

But I wanted to see if there was any research/stats on the subject before I increased the local visual pollution (with my light, etc.)


texts: Tektro RL 340 brake levers cannot find tightening bolt to keep shifter secure

texts:
I have this bike from Decathlon, but the right shifter started to come loose and drop down, so I have unwound the bar tape and proceeded to move it back up.

But unlike my old shifters there is no bolt to tighten it up! I have looked everywhere on it, but cannot see it, it seems that is only held in securely by the bar tape. Is there a way to make this more secure? As at the moment it is still moving around.

It has Tektro RL 340 brake levers, not sure if I am doing something wrong.


texts: Bought a wahoo Kickr in November and noticed a small chip to my canyon ultimate carbon frame. In January, Canyon announced the Ultimate was not compatible with Kickr. I'm dealing with Canyon and Wahoo, but curious if I should be concerned by the frame damage. Is this something serious? Bike is a 2021.


texts: What powder is used inside an inner tube?

texts: I just cut open an old inner tube I had laying around and noticed there is a white powder in there. What is it? Why is it there?


texts: For all you mechanics out there I am sure you hate these things. Dust caps are the bane of my existence. They are cheap and bend easily. I want to get a better sturdier one for a bike I am working on. What do I want to look for? Is it just the sizing of the crank that matters or are there other factors?


texts: What is the loud screeching noise coming from my bike?

texts: I can ride my bike for ~10 minutes before a very loud screeching noise starts. It only happens when I pedal; when I brake is the only time there is no sound. Once this noise starts I cannot ride my bike for the rest of the day without the sound, but if I don't use it for a day I can ride for another 10 minutes the next day. I have had two repair shops look at the bike (when the sound was not happening) and they could find nothing wrong. Is this a problem with the pedals?


texts: If I puncture a CO2 cartridge, will it last a while?

texts:
I bought a CO2 cartridge a while back.
I think it is used to fill up tires.

If I puncture the cartridge, will it last a while?
Would it maintain pressure for at least 6 months?


texts: Can I fit 27.5 or 29 tires on 700c rims?

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Id like to go with wider tires, but there is not tires 2.0 inch that is made for 700c rims.
So is there any alternative to that?


texts: Will a track wheel work with the dropouts on my frame?

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I've got an old 7 speed steel frame. I've ordered a track wheel with a spacing of 120mm.

My frame has correct drop outs for it, but does it have the correct spacing? If not, what are my options?

What is the maximum amount of slack I can pick up by tighten my skewers? It's Reynolds 531 tubing.

Are spacers an option to pad out the excess space between the hub?


texts: Can you change the rear hub on a tubular cyclo cross wheelset with out riping the tubular tyre off?

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I recently bought sram cx1 for my cyclocross bike and was hoping it to put it on tonight.

I didn't do enough research before purchasing the product to realise that 11 speed cassettes will not fit onto 10 speed hubs.

Can the rear hub on my tubular race wheels be changed with out ripping off the tubular tyre (and saving the expense of buying a new one)?


texts: Shimano 105 front derailleur cage won't move at all

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Got a brand new shimano 105 FD double. I put the chain on the small ring and when I adjust the limit screw the cage can't go towards the frame enough so that the chain can't go to the largest rear cog because of the cage stop it from moving further to the frame. Then I started inspecting the FD and found the cage won't move a bit at all. To prove it I removed the two limit screws and tried to move the cage by hand and it just won't move. I don't have experience in it but watched many videos on YouTube and saw people moving the cage easily by hand to adjust FD. So wondering if there is something wrong with my FD?

Update:
The FD is fine, the problem is my FD hanger is extending a little bit too much from the seat post which makes the FD too far away from the frame. And my chain and cassette is 9 speed, and the FD is 10 speed so the FD cage a little bit tight here for a 9 speed chain. I googled a lot and found a solution is to use a 8 speed FD, which got much bigger size cage and can move further to the frame somehow. This plus a one mm BB spacer on the drive side solve the problem. I was not sure where was the problem at first so thought it might be the problem of FD itself, but it's just not compatible.


texts: Giant Atx MTB rear wheel quick release not opening

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Bike is a Giant Atx 27.5 2016

I have to replace the tube on the back wheel but the quick release lever is too tight and will not pull open, is there a trick to loosen it?


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I recently installed a pair of new tyres to my MTB. The front seems fine however the rear looks like it is not spinning completely centrally.

This is a rather peculiar situation because the wheel seems centered but the tyre is off center in some places.

I do not feel that anything is unusual while riding in that there are no vibrations or wobbles.

How do I correct this visual anomaly, and is it imperative that I do?

These are 26" MTB tyres with tubes.


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I have an external bearing BB, that I need replaced (It is quite badly rusted). I opt to do the repair myself. The bike is a Specialized Hardrock, the crank arms are SR Suntour.

Having removed the crank arms, I proceed to unscrew the plastic sealing rings of the BB. I removed the non drive side one. However, with all my strength, and a 30cm arm wrench I fail to produce any progress on the drive side cup. I am trying to turn the cup clockwise.

What is going on here? Am I doing something wrong? If I go to my LBS, is it probable that they will have a larger wrench?


texts: Diagnosing the cause of clicking sound coming from drivetrain

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My bike is making a clicking sound on every downstroke of the left crank. Here's a recording I took while out on a ride: https://soundcloud.com/jugdish/20210309-1510-recording-2-edit/s-x5znI4sdTPu
It gets worse with more force, like when climbing.
I will admit I was the last one to put the cranks on and I didn't have a torque wrench, but I'm pretty certain I got them on securely. At least there is no lateral play in the cranks.
I'm thinking that leaves either the pedal bearings or the bottom bracket as the cause? Does anyone have any other ideas? Is there a good way to diagnose whether the pedals are the cause without having to buy new ones?

Crankset is a Shimano 105, two-piece compression slotted, non self extracting
Bottom bracket is Shimano SM-BBR60, about 5 years old.
Pedals were replaced due to pitted bearings about 3 years ago.


texts: Is it better to breathe through your nose or mouth when cycling?

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I just watched the 'Road to Glory' documentary about Team Sky.  I noticed when they were warming up on their Turbos, some of them had cotton wool up their noses.

Is this because it's better to breathe through your mouth than nose?  If so, why don't they have cotton wool up their noses during the actual race?