texts: Looking for coat: shell front, fleece back

texts:
Looking for a good fall/winter/spring coat. In my imagination it is: a hard raincoat type shell on the front of the jacket to block wind and fleece on the back to make it extremely breathable.

Looking to use it in Ottawa, Ontario in temperatures between +5C to -10C (although that is flexible, I wouldn't mind having to layer or figure out something cooler for warmer weather).

Bonus: It should also have some kind of reflective material.

Does this coat exist? Where can I find it?


texts: Can I use a 130mm OLD wheel on a 135 mm rear spacing frame to put on a home trainer?

texts:
I got a hand-me-down home trainer and I want to use it with my disc road bike (with a rear dropout spacing of 135mm).
To keep the budget low, I want to use an old 130mm wheel.
My dropouts are for Quick Release

Can I use some kind of spacers (on the non drive side?) to achieve that?

Since it's on a home-trainer I don't need to brake, so there is no problem of rotor/caliper alignment. However it would be great if I didn't have to tune my rear derailleur each time I swap wheels.

Is it doable or should I just look for a cheap second-hand 135mm wheel?


texts: My V brake makes grinding sounds when pulled. I've checked, and it keeps collecting metal fragments, presumably from the rim. The pads are weeks old, the rim was replaced a year ago. What can cause this? Can I solve this with anything else than replacing the rim and the pads again?


texts: What are the benefits of removable presta valve cores?

texts: Once again, I spent some quality time debugging a slow leak and found out it was a loose valve core. I tightened it with pliers, but it raises the question, is there a situation where it is useful to be able to remove the valve core? Also, have replacement valve cores been available at some point, and do the cores have a standard thread or is it manufacturer-specific?


texts: Differences between Izoard XP 2013 and Izoard XP 2014?

texts:
I wanted to buy a Wilier Triestina Izoard XP.
The dealer told me that the Izoard XP 2013 with Shimano 105 cost 3021$ and I would have sold discounted to 2060$. The same price of the Izoard XP 2014 with 105. I asked why the new model would cost the same amount of discounted old model and he told me that the fork of the 2013 better than the 2014. I don't understand from Izoard XP 2014 spec if it is better then Izoard XP 2013 see english 'Bike Specification' in this italian site. Is a matter of fork?


texts: I have a brooks saddle that has bedded in, slightly out of alignment so that one side is lower than the other. I have heard that it is possible to 'lace up' the saddle in order to retain its shape? How do I do this, and is it advisable?


texts: How should I prepare a carbon frame when I want to swap in a new bottom bracket?

texts:
My four-year-old, carbon-framed road bike has developed a case of creaky cranks.

I only hear creaking when pedalling hard, when I pedal more softly it just sounds like it has always done.

Given the bike's age it just seems like a good idea to replace the bottom bracket. But I was wondering, once I get the old bb out, how best to prep the frame before fitting the new bb?

I've only changed BBs on steel frames before, where I applied some pretty thick grease quite liberally around the shell. But is approach applicable to carbon?

Some supplementary info: I'm riding a 2010 Giant TCR Advanced 2, with a 6700 Ultegra groupset, including hollowtech 2 cranks. I believe from the bike's spec that the bb involved is a press-fit bb, as shown on the Wiggle site. Having said that I've not taken anything off yet so this is all theoretical so far - I'm going to visit my LBS later today to get the relevant preload cap removal tool, so I can have a bit of a look around.


texts: Why do some disk brake pads use split-pins or bolts to retain metallic or resin pads?

texts:
With Shimano disc brakes, there are two options for types of brake pads: resin or metallic. My understanding is that the metallic brakes generally have more stopping power while resin are more modulated and squeal less.

With that said, as far as I have seen, some use a split-pin to stay in place, while others use a bolt.

A split pin used on both organic-resin and sintered-metallic pads

This is strange to me: I feel less comfortable knowing my ability to stop is based on a bent split-pin rather than a screwed-in bolt! Is there some explanation for this?

My best guess is that the metallic pads create more heat, which could warp threads, but that's just a guess.


texts: How to replace brake lever from integrated shifter?

texts: I had recently upgraded from grip shifter to thumb shifter. I have attached the new ST EF50 shifter for my Btwin RR 340vtt. Just today I broke the brake lever from the shifter. I don't want to replace the whole set. I just want to replace the brake lever. is it possible? I have some brake lever which may fit with that. Is that really possible? the brake lever cannot be welded as its an alloy. Do I have any options.


texts: Improve survivability of bicycle container

texts:
The "white container box" lasted about 2 months until it cracked in multiple places.

It was a cheap box(Dollar General variety).

New container is made by Sterilite and much sturdier.

I believe the old container cracked because of vibration and bumps transmitted from the ground to the box.

Can someone help me with ideas on how to cushion the new box?


texts:
I noticed that the pistons on my hydraulic brakes (Shimano M365) leave traces of oil on the back of the pads. Is that ok or it is considered as a bad leak?

The quantity of oil is barely noticeable but it's there. The pads are not contaminated at all.

I should note that the system needs a proper bleed.

Edit : I forgot to mention that the system features an "automatic compensation" for brake pad wear. I am guessing it just lets a little bit of air inside when the pistons extend too much, which could explain the leakage.


texts:
I have not ever done any bike specific indoor training other than a stationary bike.
I have a rough idea what smart trainers do when it comes to simulating load and terrain.
I am curious though what is the training benefit to riding on rollers?
From what I can tell it does not allow you to vary the load you are working against like a smart/dumb trainer right?
Has anyone who trained with rollers felt like it was time well spent?


texts: Which rear mech to replace sram X-9 10 speed 2x10

texts: I have a Whyte 905 2011 with a 12-36 Sram cassette and an X-9 medium cage rear derailleur. It's not been attenuating well for some time despite efforts to adjust. The bike shop couldn't fix it. So i'm thinking i need to replace. The X9 appears to be discontinued (and forums suggest people had problems with them) but i could get an ebay replacement. Sram  now appear to be going with the GX-Type 2.1. Is that the mech i should use? Thanks!


texts:
I have rim brakes on my fairly new bike which I ride to work every day. An issue I have with this bike is that the front rim brake starts squealing as soon as the conditions are slightly wet. There is no reduction in performance for my purposes.

I looked at other questions in the forum and they all address rim brakes squealing all the time (How do I make my rim brakes stop squealing?) or disk brakes squealing in rain. (Why do my disc brakes squeal when wet?). Nothing I found addresses rim brakes which only squeal in the rain.

Should I just accept the fact that since I have decently powerful rim brakes, they will always squeal in the rain or can I do something?

Please be gentle, this is my first question.


texts: What can be done to make a trainer work quieter?

texts: I use a trainer at home. It works quiet. But living in an apartment I would like to make it work quieter. What can I do to minimize noise of a trainer?


texts: I have a Shimano FD-R453 front derailleur that needs replacing. 50t and bottom pull with a 31.8 clamp.  There are three gears in the front and 9 gears in the back.  Could somebody help me with getting something similar as they don't make these anymore.


texts: Trying to figure out which tires/tubes I can use

texts:
I have a road bike tire with the following markings:
50-559

26x1.95

K935-001

I weigh about 200lbs and will probably carry a pannier holding 40lbs. Some research said that my tire should inflate to about 110 PSI. This tire reads that it doesn't support a PSI over 65 (bought the bike used). So I figure I need a new tire.
However, from here it’s been hard to research what I should get.  When I search Amazon I don’t find a lot of tubes that describe the width as 28mm.  Instead I see a lot of measurements like 26x1.95, which is the dimension my current bike has.  I figured maybe the 1.95 represent the width in inches, but when I convert it to millimeters it’s about 44 millimeters, way bigger than what I found recommended.
So I’m just not clear one how to reconcile all these incomplete and contradictory-seeming sources of info.  All I really want to know is:  When I go on Amazon to get the tubes for my bike, which measurement (or ranges) do I need to search for to be sure it fits and won’t explode under me?


texts: How much is a mass production aluminium road bike frame worth?

texts:
I was just curious, how much is a frame in a entry level road bicycle worth?

In total, what is the cost of a frame per unit in a bicycle built using i.e. a Shimano Sora groupset, white-labelled brakes rims, tubes and tires?


texts: Convert from 3x drivetrain to 1x with 3x cranks

texts: There has  been some teeth on my front chainring chipped away from knocking on some curbs. I'm thinking of buying a 1x drivetrain because I rarely change the front gear. Can I put a 1x chainring on a 3x crank? There are bolts on the cranks and I'm wondering is there a chainring that can fit in it. I have a Shimano DEORE M610 crank set. I'm doing this because I'm trying to save as much money as possible.


texts: Rack and fender on one eyelet spacing issue

texts:
I just had fenders mounted on my bike, but there is a minor issue. Here is the picture of the situation:

The two fender stays can be see going to the left of the image, and the rack stay is the middle of the image. Currently, the top fender stay and the rack hook where you clip bags onto are pretty much touching. This makes it very difficult to slide a clip onto the rack hook without a struggle.

I was wondering what the best thing to do is. My plan is to buy a longer bolt and add a washer or two to space apart the fender stay and rack stay.

The problem is that I am concerned about cantilevering the rack stay too far from the eyelet. Is that a real concern? (see here)

The solution could be to also switch the ordering so that the rack stay is closest to the eyelet. But I feel like the fender stay could still get in the way because it would have to curve back to the fender. Is that a worry? I want to buy the right length bolt without having to experiment too much.

edit: situation update

After taking a closer look, I realized that the top fender stay runs under the seat stay, so having the fender stay go in front of the rack stay is not an option. I see two ways forward now:

Use washers (with possibly a longer bolt) to space apart the rack and fender stays, even though the rack stay will be outside of the fender stays.
Move the fender stays to P-clamps mounted on the seat stays.

Final update (3-20): I ended up using the same screw, but I added an additional washer between the fender stays and the rack. The screw was long enough to still fully thread the eyelet. And yes I did increase leverage on the screw from the rack ever so slightly. But this was the simplest and easiest solution. The way the fender stay is angled, it's impossible to have the fender stay outside of the rack.


texts: Help with Trek Mountain Bike to Touring Bike Conversion

texts:
Besides riding bikes since I was a kid, I'm a newbie when it comes to the mechanics of a bike. Hoping to convert a Trek Mountain Bike (that was given to me) to a bike that I can use for long distance riding on streets. I recently purchased an affordable Schwinn road bike which does the trick, but I'm looking for something more comfortable and why I'm considering the conversion.

As part of the conversion, I think I'd like to do the following:

swap the suspension forks for non-suspension
get road friendly tires
swap the handlebars for something taller (I think they're called riser); back hurts with the current ones
swap the seat out with something more comfortable
swap pedals with standard non-cleat style pedals

I'm also on a budget, but I don't want to sacrifice reliability or comfort for cheapness. Any suggestions on parts and tips for doing the actual swaps? By the way, I'm pretty handy and pretty much do all of my car repairs. I just don't have much experience working on bikes and just like everything, I know there's tips out there that I should be aware of before jumping into it.

Thanks in advance! Here's pics of my bike:


texts:
On some headsets which use a cartridge bearing in the lower assembly, the crown "race" is split. Also, I know a lot of people split their crown race for the ease of installation.

Perhaps I'm overly concerned, but I'm wondering about two things.

Has anyone ever cracked a crown race during use? If this is something that can happen, a split crown race might shatter into pieces..
The crown race is held somewhat snug by the chamfered edge of the bearing, which suggests it might prevent a broken crown race from falling of the fork. Has anyone ever crashed due to the crown race / lower headset assembly failing?

Edit: I ask this because I consider splitting a race. I'm switching out a RS Reba for a Surly 1x1 fork, both of which have a crown seat diameter of approx. 30mm (as do all 1.125" forks, as far as I know). I tried setting it using my "specialized race setting tool" (i.e. some PVC piping and a mallet) and plenty of lube. No luck however, the pipe started to shatter but the race wouldn't set :-(. It seems like the seating is just a hair too wide for the race to seat. As far as I see there are two options: file down the crown seating a bit, or split the race. The latter seems easier; also I'd rather modify a 3€ part than a 50€ one. But only if I won't loose my teeth over it :-P.


texts: Is it possible to fit twist grip gears on vintage drop down handlebars?

texts:
I have a bit of a Frankenstein bike made from odd parts and it has straight handlebars with twist grip gears fitted to an old road bike style frame.
I hate the straight bars but love the twist grip - is it possible to retain the twist grip but change the bars to drop down?


texts: Any issues with wearing leg warmers over tights?

texts: I want to add a layer over my bike tights for warmth. Leg or knee warmers seem like a nice versatile option. I am just wondering if there is any issue with wearing these over tights as opposed to over bare skin with shorts.


texts: How do you measure the length of a loose spoke?

texts: I have built up quite a few old spokes, which are all perfectly useable. All I need to know is their intended length, but I am not sure how it should be taken.


texts:
I love the soon to be released Tacx Neo Smart Bike for its seatpost and handlebar adjustability which will hopefully make it super easy for my wife and me to share a single indoor training bike.

Thing is, I already have a Tacx Neo and would like to see if I can rig up something similar by outfitting an existing bike frame with a handlebar and a seatpost that are both just as easily adjustable. I've checked with Tacx and as at Jul 2018 they are not planning to offer any trade-ins.

I figure that the seatpost is an easier fix, since I could have 2 seatposts with a QR clamp to allow fast switching. I'm not so sure about the handlebars.

Does anyone have any ideas?


texts: Schwalbe Marathon Plus recurring puncture - options?

texts:
Does anyone have any experience of using puncture resistant tyres when they have been cut so badly as the object pierces the tyre right through?

Being Mr. Unlucky, 2-3 months ago I managed to get a puncture on my Schwalbe Marathon Plus'.

I changed the tub initially. When the second, third puncture happened, I started looking closer. The object (what I am guessing was a piece of glass, from memory) cleanly cut straight through the "SmartGuard layer".

My guess was the object was still embedded in the tyre as it took 1-2 days after fixing punctures 2, 3, 4 for next puncture to flatten the tire completely.

I examined the site, and tried to clean it out with a pair of tweezers, narrow knife, etc.

What are my options to continue using this tyre? I have (rightly or wrongly) applied some patch adhesive to the outside of the tyre on the puncture site, to see what happens.

Or should I stop using it?


texts:
I have a medium size Scott Scale 40 (2009) and my height is 1.73m.
Whenever I ride this bike I feel that something about my posture is wrong, back and neck pains are killing me after 1 hour.
I think that the handlebar is lower than it should be. It looks like I'm getting a low position and my head is looking more to downwards.
I want to try to raise the handlebar but I have no clue what extra parts I need to purchase first. I hope you can help me with this.
Thanks


texts:
I'm quite new to upgrading parts, and trying to put together a Cyclocross / Touring bike and getting quite confused about compatibility.

Can I use 10 speed Tiagra Sti shifters with triple Deore 10 speed chainset, 10 speed Deore Xt front mech and 10 speed rear mech?

If not what would be the best way to go?

Thanks in advance!


texts: Do oversize pulley wheels increase derailleur capacity?

texts:
Do the large custom pulley wheels and cages increase the capacity of a derailleur significantly? There are reasonably priced ones on E-bay with 16t pulley wheels.

Every demo of these I've seen says you'll need to install a longer chain when you switch, but does that really imply that the capacity of the derailleur has increased?

I am mostly interested in this question because I'd like to run an 11-40 cassette on my gravel bike and use Campagnolo components if at all possible.


texts: What are the thicknesses of different two-bolt bike shoe cleats?

texts:
I've been riding with Shimano SPD pedals/cleats for a while now and I really don't like the way the cleats scrape against the ground (or floor) when walking. I have heard that both Crank Brothers and Time Atac cleats are thinner, but I've not been able to verify this. None of the stores around here sell either one (only SPD).

What are the actual thickness measurements of the various cleats? If you have either Crank Bros or Time Atac and a caliper, can you measure it for me?


texts: I know a part of biking endurance and speed come from having a perfect pedal stroke. What should I do to improve my pedal stroke?


texts: Why does my rear derailleur's indexing work for either the high or the low gears, but not both?

texts:
I am adjusting my rear derailleur indexing. It seems impossible to find the correct tightness. When I tighten the tension with the tension barrel adjuster, I have one of two problems: either it is too tight and the derailleur jumps from the third largest to largest cog (skipping the second largest cog) or it is too loose and does not want to jump from the smallest to second smallest cog.

I used the smallest turns imaginable to adjust the barrel adjuster, but still no luck. I kept the front derailleur in the middle cog (of three). Also, adjusting the B screw does not seem to have any effect.

There are nine gears.


texts: Should a link opened/closed by a chain-breaker be stiff afterwards?

texts:
I disassembled my bike's drivetrain to degrease and regrease all the components. I used a chain-breaker for the first time (previous bikes had a master link) to open a chain link and remove the chain. Afterwards, I reassembled the chain but found the link I'd opened is very stiff to the point where, as the link emerges from the chainring, it stays bent until it moves through the derailer and which point it snaps straight again.

I tried making small adjustments to the rivet holding the link together and adding additional lubricant with no success. I even removed that link from the chain completely (assuming I'd bent something slightly), only to have the next link I opened/closed become the stiff one.

Is this normal after using a chain-breaker to open a link? Should I expect the stiffness in the link to work itself out, or have I done something wrong? Is there anything else I can try to loosen up the stiff link?


texts: Rear derailleur does not downshift properly, shifts up smoothly

texts:
I can't get my rear derailleur to downshift properly. Especially in the middle of the cassette it'll delay a bit before shifting.

Limits are set correctly.

Since I can't explain this properly I recorded a video

My only guess is it being slightly bent.


texts: Is there a gadget that will let me slide my seat forward more than my post allows?

texts:
So I'm I'm trying to dial in the fit on my road bike to be more tri-bike like, and in doing so, I'd like to move my seat forward, well, more than I currently can.

I have the Redshift seatpost, and I really like the dual position action, but it just doesn't go far enough forward for me to hit my ideal position. Truth be told, my bike doesn't fit me as well as it should, but it's currently a better option for me to try to make it work than find a new bike.

Anyway, in my searches I came across the M2Racer Power Module which was apparently a product about a decade ago. It looks like exactly the part I'd like to have, but I can't find anybody selling one. Alternatively, is there anything else out there that would give me a similar effect?

For what it's worth, I've investigated flipping around a setback seatpost, but the Redshift goes forward further, and I've seen the Profile Design FastForward, but I don't think it will give me much more than my current setup.


texts: I've had a bike in storage for over 10 years. What maintenance does it need?

texts:
I've had a bike in indoor storage (my garage) for over 10 years. I'd like to get it back into good condition to use for my commute to/from work each day.

What things should I check/replace before I trust it to safely and reliably work on the road?


texts: How can I ride a bike having severe spinal disease and pain?

texts: I am 27 years old and bound to a power chair due to severe back pain and spinal disease. I have had multiple surgeries and will soon have more. I would like to be active but I know that is nearly impossible due to me being bound to a power chair and the inability to walk except for around the house without a cane. Is there a way or a special bicycle that is made that I can ride a bike??? Please help! I'm dying to get out more without my chair!


texts: Leaking Slime inner tube valve after opened for first time since install

texts:
I put some extra air in my rear mountain bike tyre yesterday. It uses the SLIME inner tube. It wasn't flat nor had a puncture, I was just topping it up to make the tyre a bit harder.

I cycled to work on it and all was fine. When I came out of work however, the rear tyre was completely flat. It was absolutely fine when I got to work though.

It appears that since opening the valve to pump in some air, it's been slowly leaking back out of this valve. It wasn't a problem until I did this. It's a schrader valve if of any use/relevance.

Is there anything I can do? I pump the tyre up and it just deflates again through the SLIME inner tube valve (which has spat out a bit of it's green gunk incidentally). Just seems like a complete waste of money at £16 per inner tube if it just leaks via the valve (regardless of whether it's going to seal any punctures or not).


texts: How do I add pressure and adjust rebound on older mountain bike forks?

texts: It doesn't have design of modern forks and I can't find a tutorial online for a fork like this. Any tips?


texts: Can I put a lower geared cassette on my bike?

texts:
I bought a bike recently that has a 34 front 28 rear gear ratio. It is an Elfama E2500, which is a Korean brand I believe. It has a Shimano Claris (which is rated for up to 32 teeth) rear derailleur and an 8 speed 11-28 cassette in the back.

I would like to go with as big of a gear as possible for climbing, somethine like 11-32 which is the biggest I can find in an 8 speed. Something like this... http://goo.gl/eLbluH

Will this fit? Is there some other variable I am missing? Would it be possible to go up to a 10 speed cassette without changing too much on the bike?


texts: Suspension not bouncy raleigh activator 2

texts: Hi i got a preowned raleigh activator 2 with front suspension and rear tube dampening system but the front and back suspensions dont seem as bouncy as i thought is there a way to get them to do their job properly.i am 10stone in weight and height 5,10 if its to do with the weight.


texts: I can't track down the source of chain skip - what might it be?

texts:
Last summer it come to light that my bike is suffering extremely bad chain slip, to the extent I feel it is unsafe. From what I can tell, it only happens in the 50t ring, and the 34 may be ok, but it's been a while since I've been on this particular bike, so I'd have to verify.
Near come off the bike a few times moving off from a stop if I was pedalling out of the saddle, so I got a chain checker and I noticed that it was badly worn; the tool slipped right into 1% and who knows how long it was like that given my attitude to use things until they break. Maybe 10-15k miles on the chain. It didn't fix it. So I installed new cassette on there 100-200 miles later, and again, it unfortunately, didn't fix it.
I've reassessed the chain length, and this seems O.K. from what I can gauge (big-big combo - chain has good tension, and I'm not quite able to turn 2 links back on each other to make a Z, indicating that the chain is probably the right length), so now I've reached somewhat of a brick wall. I can't keep throwing money at the thing, especially considering my next step would be to replace the large chainring, but given the cost of FC-9000, it would be quite annoying if it were not to work. Is this a likely fix?
A friend suggested sticky pawls, but when I shoved a club mates disc wheel & cassette on there, I had the same thing, so that probably rules out the possibility of the freehub assembly going bad.
If there is anyone out there with ideas/advice then it would be greatly appreciated. I can get high-resolution photos of the teeth/drivetrain condition if it helps.
EDIT; just shoved it in the workstand and noticed the rear gears were very hesitant to go 25>28 in the big ring & adjusted accordingly. I could've sworn I indexed the thing when I last used it though. If that is the case could this add new cables and a blob of marine grease to the RD springs to the list of culprits?

Factory new:


texts: Rear axle - converting from imperial to metric?

texts:
I'm working on restoring a bike which I found at a council dump and I've a couple of questions about the rear axle.

I took the rear axle into a hardware shop today to buy a new locking nut (I mislaid the original when I took it out of the wheel - my bad). They said they didn't have one as the axle was imperial and they only stocked metric locking nuts. They recommended another shop which might stock imperial nuts, but I'm thinking it might make more sense to buy a metric rear axle given that they are easier to get hold of. So my specific question is would it be ok to replace my imperial axle with a metric axle of similar size i.e is there a risk that it might compromise the safety of the wheel. The axle is about 6.5 inches long and the locking but has a diameter of about 5/8 of an inch : so I think this would mean a new axle of length 165mm?

I guess this leads to a more general question. If you replace an axle does it have to be exactly the same length as the original.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Chris


texts: I normally wear a cotton t-shirt when I ride. If I get a bike jersey, how much difference will the reduced air resistance make at, for example, 20 mph? I realize it's not possible to be precise, but I am wondering how much difference it makes.


texts: What are the disadvantages of having an old, worn cogset?

texts:
I'm always a little wary of people telling me I should replace things on my bicycle that aren't broken. Because of this, I'd like to know details and symptoms about what happens if I ride my bike with an older, worn cogset? Do I lose efficiency? How much? Is there higher potential for breakage? Do my gears skip?

FYI, the answer to this question should be about the same as answering these similar questions:

"What are the benefits of replacing an older, worn cogset?"
"What
symptoms will my bike exhibit that means I have to replace my
cogset/casset/sprocket?"


texts: Which road rear hubs have 135mm O.L.D., disc brakes, are quick release and have at least 32 holes?

texts: So, my Cannondale Synapse (2017) which I regret every day getting for causing so many different problems needs a new rear wheel. Its O.L.D. is 135mm, with disc brake, quick release and uses a Shimano 11-speed freehub. As far as I see, it's impossible to find such a wheel or hub and hence the question. The kind of disc brake is not important, I'm willing to change (6-bolt IS or CenterLock) and also building my own wheel. I want 32 or 36 holes because sometimes I carry heavy stuff and I am also heavy and I had to do lots of truing sessions with the current 28 spoke wheels (Maddux RD3.0). Do you think it's safe to ride with no rear brake? Because I could use perhaps a disc-brake-less wheel as a last resort.


texts: Difference between a 7 speed chain and a 10 speed chain

texts: I have already upgraded to a 10 speed casette from a 7 speed freewheel. I was wondering if a 10 speed chain is narrower than a 7 speed?


texts: Does a slightly untrued wheel damage the wheels?

texts: My wheels are slightly out of true, about 1.5 mm at worst part. It doesn't bother me when riding and I don't feel it, but will this hurt or damage the wheel if I keep going on, or should I keep going until it starts bothering me?


texts: Best way to train in an area with many hills

texts:
I recently bought a bicycle, mostly for exercise and fun. I am not fat, but I am really out of shape, I get tired quickly and cannot stand very long rides.

I know riding a bike constantly will reduce this, but the area I live are not very plain, which I would consider better. Most of the time I'm going (slightly) uphill or downhill; I'd like my bike rides to be "smoother" than this.

Is there a way to optimize my ride, so I can get the most of it?

I have a cheap road bike. It has only 12 gears, but except for steep hills, the gears are ok.


texts: Wahoo Kickr with a 10 speed cassette but my bike is running Shimano 11 speed, just fit an 11 speed cassette?

texts: Picked up the Kickr 2nd hand without thinking about the cassette etc. details.  Not too fussed about having all 11 ratios on the trainer so wondering if installing a spacer or similar will work or do I need (and can I) to fit an 11 spd cassette to the wahoo?


texts: Compatibility between Shimano 105 crankset and Shimano Deore derailleur

texts:
I have a wild idea to replace a crankset on my Merida Crossway 500 (2014) (which is now SR Suntour NCX-FX-10s 48A-36-26 CG) with Shimano 105 5750 cCompact 10sp (switch from 3-speed to 2-speed).

The question is: will my older derailleur be compatible with new crankset?


texts: Are Shimano Claris brifters compatible with 90's Shimano 600 parts?

texts: Is Claris backwards compatible with older shimano 600-tricolor? Can i just switch ill working parts with Claris since they are both 8 speed groups?


texts: Trying to build a bike, confused about fork/headsets/compatability

texts:
I have a fork with a 1" steerer tube, and a frame with a 1.5" head tube.

The steerer tube is slightly short, and when inserted into the frame, is flush with the top of the head tube. The fork is threaded.

My question: Is it possible to extend and adapt this fork to threadless, and what kind of headset (reducing, normal?) would I need? (the frame I bought said the headset size was 1 1/8 traditional press-in)

Or is all this just stupid, and I should just buy a new fork with a 1 1/8 steerer?


texts: How do I install a fixed gear cog on a screw-on freewheel hub?

texts: I'm converting my old favorit bicycle to a fixie, but the hub is obviously not made for a fixed gear cog. I've removed the freewheel (not sure if it's called that, the thing that spins backwards on the hub..) but I'm left with a "screw on hub" (the cassette with the freewheel was screwed on to the hub). How can I install a fixed gear cog on that? Is there even a way? please help..


texts:
I was repairing a flat on my rear tire today and noticed that the tire has started developing a flat area on the tread (see the photo below, it is the one on the right). The tire is a Continental Ultra Sport. Comparing the rear with the front there is an obvious band about 10-12 mm wide around the circumference of the tire where it contacts the road. The front tire still has a more tubular shape (little or no flat band).

My goal is to understand what this is telling me about the bike (significantly more load on rear tire?) and how I ride it and also to understand better when the tire needs replacement. For the latter question I'm primarily concerned with the reliability of the bike – a lot of my riding is for transportation and I'd like to minimize flats.


texts: Low-height rear rack for Bike Friday New World Tourist folding bike

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I'm looking for a rear rack for my Bike Friday New World Tourist (20" wheels). I've come across a bunch of rear racks like this one that sit high above the wheel. But I'm searching for one that is not so high - I want a lower height rack that will not block my rear light (clamped to the seatpost) when I put my bag on top of the rear rack and that will let the weight of my bag sit lower so that I have a lower center of gravity.

Where can I find this?


texts:
At the start of my ride yesterday I was passing through town slowly and crossed a section of cobble stones (just a line running across the tarmac). I managed to hit the one cobble sticking out of the ground. I lost a lot of tire pressure (I normally ride 23mm tires with 90-95 psi, it dropped to around 20 psi) and thought I had gotten a pinch flat so turned back home to change tube. When I got home I tested the existing tube (in the bath tub) for holes and found nothing, I've put it back in the wheel now and reinflated, got through a 50 km ride yesterday evening and still inflated this morning...

Any ideas what happened? Is this a common (or at least not entirely unheard of) occurrence for others. The valve was closed and it's not the first time its happened to me either.

Here's the offending piece of cobblework, it's nothing extreme...


texts: How to reliably tell if the rim is correctly drilled?

texts:
The typical advice is to put down the rim, find the hole for valve and compare two adjacent holes which one is "higher" and which one is "lower" one (the counterclockwise hole should be higher).

The problem is with my new purchase I cannot tell the difference (maybe it is due to the fact so far I used 26" rims, now I have 28" and the distances are tad bigger between holes). I look once and I see pattern, I take a look again with different angle and I see the opposite pattern.

So, is there some reliable way to measure the difference and tell which hole is higher/lower? I would need this for my purpose but also to convince the shop they sent me incorrectly drilled rim (in correct one you have almost parallel spokes over the valve, in incorrect one the spokes are more angled making less space when using the pump over the valve).

Important note: Here and in general I am interested of testing new rims, so I cannot in any way change them or even fully unpack (i.e. remove the thin protective wrap which manufacturer glued to the rim), so if the rim is incorrect I could send it back and the return will be accepted.

The rim is DT-Swiss 535 28" and all I did so far is I took it out from the package. I looked it from the inside and from the outside as well -- but after first "reading" I also rotated rim by one hole and the previous reading was contradicted by the new one (the holes should be in high-low-high-low-... pattern) because I saw the same pattern. In short, I cannot rely on my eyes.

This is just an example of spoke crossing. The perfect rim would have valve at (for example) 12 o'clock, between parallel spokes.


texts:
9 months ago I bought a Cruiser bike for riding around my neighborhood, and over that time the tread has worn out completely to the point you can see the cream surface that the interior of the tire has.

My question is, is this normal? For me, this seems very fast for a tire to wear out. In the past I've had mountain bikes and their tires lasted for years and still had plenty of tread.

So is this problem due to a cheap tire, or something else?


texts: How to prevent loose brake cables with a single pivot side-pull mechanism?

texts:
I recently bought a second hand bike and am now tweaking it to my liking.
The bike has single pivot side-pull brakes, but it has a straight steering bar with regular brake levers (very similar, if not the same as this one).

I did not like the travel of the levers of the brake. I only had to squeeze them half a cm and the brakes would be fully applied already. I find it more comfortable to press the brake levers halfway (2-3 cm), it feels more controlled.

So I elongated the cable slightly at the brake, but now the cable travelling from my lever to the back wheel brake is hanging loose under the frame whenever it is not applied.

What should I do to increase the travel distance of the lever, but also make sure that the cable is not hanging loosely when not in use?


texts: Would learning to ride a unicycle boost biking skills?

texts:
Unicycles are not particularly expensive, seem to be light and portable, also fun. This gets me wondering if spending a couple of months to learn riding such a thing would boost a mountain biker's coordination, balance, timing, reaction, fall handling, etc. Or would just riding the intended type of trails be more educational?

EDIT:
To clarify, I am sure that doing something is the best way to get good at it. However, I am also aware of the law of diminishing returns. That is, if one's idea is to be good at mtb, maybe after a lot of riding, they should consider other activities, hat are only somewhat beneficial in the same direction.


texts: How can I widen brakes on an '09 Specialized Transition Pro?

texts:
I just picked up an '09 Transition on craigslist, and was expectantly dismayed to find that the stock brakes aren't quite wide enough for my Zipp 404 firecrests.  When I remove the straddle cable (unsure if that's correct term for this particular type of brakes), they open up enough for the super wide 404s.

Does anybody either a)  know the part number for the straddle "cable" that came stock, so I can order a slightly longer one or b) have any suggestions for how I can open the brakes up another 4mm?

Reference image:  http://imgur.com/YPYdx.  What I'm calling the "straddle cable" is what connects the two calipers.


texts:
I have a bike with Avid hydraulic brakes. The levers feel loose and at the end of pushing it, there is a "soft" feeling (like when V-brakes pads aren't adjusted properly).
As I understand, it's air inside the pipes. Is there something I can try to do to fix it without opening it / refilling liquid?


texts: Bike Shorts, Do you wear things under/over them?

texts:
So I am going on a 200mi ride (over 3 days) soon. I was at the bike store getting my bike a once-over before I go, and I was told by the bike specialist, that I would really want to consider buying some bike shorts (the tight spandex kind) with padding. While that is fine, and I am going to take his advice, I dont know anything about wearing said bike shorts.

Do you wear underwear with them? Can I wear shorts over them? Do I really need them?


texts: Track cog threading or lockring threading?

texts:
On the website of a wheel manifacturer, I can find the following specs about the cog compatibility of their track wheels:

  Our track hubs are then compatible with threaded track cogs of Shimano 1.29” x 24 specification.

Is this possible? I am skeptical, because I can't find any cog that has this kind of threading. For reference,

EAI cogs specs show "standard 1.370"x24tpi English threading"
Shimano cogs specs say "ISO 1.375" x 24 tpi"

I suspect the specs on the track hubs refer to the lockring threading instead, because that's the only measure I can find through a Google search that actually corresponds, see https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/shimano-dura-ace-track-cog-lockring-1-29-24-tpi-left-hand-thread

If I am right and that's the case, what's the threading on the track hub I should assume for the actual cog?


texts: Do SunTour freewheels have uneven cog spacing?

texts: I have a Suntour freewheel (6 spd, "Perfect" model) that has unequal spacer widths. The spacer between the top and bottom 3 speeds is wider than the other 4 spacers. I purchased the bike used ('80-'81 Colnago Super), and I know the wheels (hubs and rims) are not original, but the freewheel (the body anyways) is of the correct time period. I noticed that the cogs do not have beveled teeth; I thought all SunTour FWs of that era had bevelled teeth to help transitioning from higher to lower gears. Teeth on cogs (excepting the smallest) have little or no wear (front 52T ring is unworn,44T ring shows wear); I assume previous owner rode the small ring in both the front and rear, rarely shifting. Bike is in excellent condition for 40 years old.


texts: Adding front derailleur vs upgrading the rear one on a (ladies) bicycle

texts:
What I want to achieve is going from having some gears to having more gears. To be more specific I would like to get more gear ratio range in both low and high end.

First of all I tried to look for the answer over several days(few hours at a time). I also hope this is not too open ended - I did read on how to ask a question and what not to ask. I'll try to be as specific as I can.

I did find several topics on adding gears to a single speed bicycle. Like these:

Whats the easiest way to add gears to my single speed
How hard is it to add gears to a bike that previously had none

Also found people going from multiple-gears to a single gear:

How to convert a multi-speed bike to single-speed with coaster brake?

And MTB specific talk on giveing up the front derailleur:

Why single chainring is enough for trail and enduro riding

In several threads people have suggested getting a second bike but this is not a good solution for me at the moment.

The bicycle (Ammaco Classique):

Shimano RS-35 6-speed index revoshift gear lever
Shimano TY18 rear 6-speed derailleur
Gears:

Front single 42T cog
Rear a 6 speed freewheel with 14T-28T (G.Falcon 8BO). It measures 33.5 mm tall when rested on it's back on a table top and measured to the tallest point.

I can usually handle most of the repairs myself and consider this a fun exercise. So I probably won't have to count shop hours in the overall cost. That said there are still several jobs/tools that I have jet to learn.

What I already know about adding front derailleur

I might also have to upgrade the rear one to match the gears
I'll probably need clamp-on cable guides
I'll most likely need to get a new chain guard
Also might need a new bottom bracket

What I already know about upgrading the rear one

I will probably need to get a new chain

Hope this is enough to get the discussion going. Sorry for the broken links - will fix them when I get sufficient rep.


texts: Experiences of the Cannondale Headshok system?

texts:
Does anyone have any experience of the Cannondale Headshok suspension system, where the shock is in the head tube / above the fork?

Are they reliable? I'm looking at a Cannondale Bad Boy 2 (2013) and am concerned that if something goes wrong it could be hard to rectify..


texts:
Is it possible to ride a bike standing? I mean properly standing, not sitting up straight. Your feet are on the pedals but you do not touch any other part of the bike. If not, is it possible to roll/steer while standing?

For maximal clarity I added this handcraftet picture. You may only have contact with the blue parts, and especially not with the red parts:


texts: Gravel and MTB: What film to use to protect for rocky riding? and what parts?

texts:
What do the parts of the carbon frame need to be protected for rocky trail?
And, what do you use to protect the carbon down tube for rocky riding?
EDIT:
Some people used to install "Paint Protective Film" (PPF) for cars' paint protection and some bicycles, do you think it is practical? If ans is Yes, what is the suggestive film to use to protect for rocky riding.
Thanks.


texts:
What exactly are they measuring? How do they measure it? What are the implications of the different approaches on accuracy / speed of getting a good measure?

It would be helpful if someone could give an answer that explains how hub-based meters like the PowerTap differ from the crank-based meters like the Quarq which differ from the other ones.


texts:
I have a road bike that I use mostly for touring (2-3 day trips) and my daily commute (~25km). It's loaded with the Shimano 2300 (2013) 3 X 10 groupset. I know it's not the most efficient or lightweight, but for my purposes it has served me well.

I just broke the rear derailleur. My policy is to always replace parts with ones of the same or better quality.

My problem is that 8-speed parts are becoming less and less common for road bikes, so buying better or equivalent parts for the 2300 is becoming difficult (I live in Singapore).

Is it worth it to upgrade to a complete higher tier groupset like the current Tiagra? My hope is that with this change I can access the market of 10 X 3 speed components and have room to upgrade part by part later if I want to.

Would I need to change more parts than the ones included (derailleurs, shifters, cassette, crankset, BB) other than the chain if my bicycle already handles 2300?


texts:
I want to buy a road bike for commuting, fitness, leisure, etc. and not for professional racing. However, because I live in a "wet" country, I would like to be able to change the tires into cross tires.

As far as I know, standard road tires are 25mm and standard cross tires are 30mm.

Are there any entry level (meaning less than 2-3K) road bikes that have the frame/fork/brake clearance for the larger wheels?


texts: Is it safe to ride a steel bike with a dented/buckled frame?

texts:
I just noticed, to my great sadness, a small-ish buckle/dent in my diagonal lower tube. (I'm riding a Cooper T200 single speed.) I just moved house; I hope I didn't do it. I probably did.

It's about half way up and looks like it's been bent against something, or crushed between something - the tube itself is still straight, it just has a bit of a ding. It's probably only dented in a fraction of an inch.

A fraction of an inch is no longer a perfect circle, though, and it'll inevitably weaken it. Question is, enough for me to worry about? Or should I just keep riding and forget it?

I ride on roads, to work, nothing strenuous, but want to be able to hit the occasional pothole or what have you without constantly thinking that my frame is going to collapse under me.

Does anyone have any actual experience with this sort of "injury"? Any suggestions how I might fix it, short of replacing the tube? I don't care if it looks a bit rough, we're through the honeymoon period, it's just a functional machine now. :-)

Thanks all.

Edit: added pictures, even though this is answered. Note that the other side of the tube to the visible dent is still perfect. (These are the same dent, from slightly different angles.)


texts: What size fork can accommodate this bike that is larger than the normal one?

texts:
My bike is a 2019 Boardman Mtr 8.6 and I’m wondering if I am able to fit a 140mm travel fork to my bike?
Here’s a link to the bike and it’s specs:
https://www.cyclerepublic.com/boardman-mtr-8-6-mens-full-suspension-mountain-bike-2019.html


texts:
I've been thinking in changing my v-brakes to disc brakes.
Now that my rear v-brake can't brake anymore I think that it is time change it.
I've already seen this article. My frame is prepared for disc and, as I don't want to change my brake lever, I'll go with mechanical brakes (does this look ok?);

The only problem is the rear wheel hub that has not the six holes for the disk. Is it ok if I just change the rear wheel hub and keep the front one?


texts: How to check for aged/deteriorated weel rims

texts:
Whenever I plan repairs on an old bike I go to check the local bike shops for some information, prices, ... One of the things I noticed in the past years is that more and more they try to replace as many parts as possible. For most of those parts I can determine myself if they need replacement. But I have difficulties determining this for rims.

Is there an easy and/or quick way to determine the state of the rim without to many special tools (or expensive tools)? What are the minimal tools you need to do this?


texts: Need I mount my wheel flush to the top of my fork ends?

texts:
Using 28c tires with a recently purchased carbon fork, I found I had only ~1mm of tire clearance from the top of the brake caliper. However, if I mount my wheel slightly lower in my fork ends so that it just clears the lawyer tabs, but is no longer flush with the top of the fork end, I have a more acceptable ~3mm of tire clearance.

Is there any danger in riding my bike with my wheel mounted in this way? I am using QR skewers if that matters.


texts:
A recent trend toward wider tires (cf Heine, "Performance of Tires") also led to wider rims and a closer match of rim and tire widths.

In the past it was considered that tires need to be considerably wider than their rims. For example, Sheldon Brown requires at least 40 mm nominal width in a 23 mm rim (measure between inner flanges). ISO 4210 (cf Mavic) requires at least a 37 mm tire on the same rim.

As a recent example, my new bike (2017 Merida CX 600) came with a 700x23C rim and 32-622 tires. This choice of the manufacturer suggests it is a safe combination. The rim lacks hooks though (see below), which might make it comparable to a narrower specification.

New developments, such as tubeless, hook-less rims, and tubeless tire beads made this question more complicated then it was a decade ago. This merritts to discuss this beyond Brown and ISO 4210.

What is the smallest width a tubeless tire may have to be mounted on a rim of given width?


texts: Gear change sticking only on specific changes - cable issue?

texts:
I'm riding a hybrid with 48/36/26 chain ring and 9 speed 11-32 cassette.

When I change up OR down at a specific point the shift is slow and doesn't always engage.  On the 48 this is between the 21 and 19 cogs and on the 36 this is between the 24 and 21 cogs.  Note that this is rear change only and both up AND down shifts.

Every other change is clean and quick.

Any ideas gratefully investigated as these changes are right in the "daily range" I use for commuting!


texts: Help my identify this bike. (3Rensho? Specialized Allez?)

texts:
Help my identify this bike.
Looks like a 3Rensho or early Specialized Allez but can't find any bikes with same features.
Any info on brand/years, possibly frame size would be welcome.


texts: Can I use an outboard Shimano BB on a Trek madone ALR (alum.) with pressfit BB?

texts:
my 2015 Trek Modone ALR road bike has a press fit bottom bracket.   compared to my 2012 madone, the bottom bracket has much more drag.
I always liked the Shimano Hollowtech outboard bottom brackets and would like to install one on my TREK ALR.
Is there a conversion kit for this purpose?
Thanks


texts: Ultegra 6800 front hub plastic cover loose

texts:
The plastic cover on the right side of my Ultegra 6800 front hub (red circle in the photo) is loose and rotates freely independent of the hub.

Is it normal ? If not how can I clamp it back?


texts: So I popped my tire manualing down a curb and I went to patch it but I didn’t seem to have any glue left in my old tube of glue, so I went to the bike store and bought a new thing patch kit(cheaper to buy a new kit then a thing of glue) and I get home and go back to fixing my tire, I used the cap of the glue to pierce the top, I then tried to squeeze some glue out and heard a popping sound, I squeezed some more and there wasn’t any glue in the brand new tube of glue I had just bought and opened. Did the bike store rip me off? Or did I do something wrong?


texts: What is the typical life cycle of mid-range rear derailleurs assuming no accidents? More precisely, what's the average mileage after which it's better to replace it rather than doing tuning all the time?


texts: I have bought this Bontrager rally helmet and I was wondering if it does any harm to it if it gets wet eg. In the rain


texts:
I have a trek 7.1 that I bought last March (2014) and have been told that the pads, front wheel, chain and cassette need replacing. Is this normal for 4 to 5 days a week usage for commuting (5 to six miles total) then the odd longer cycle? The wheel was my fault as I damaged it by not replacing the pads.

Should this stuff be covered by warranty considering it's less then a year? I have been told it's wear and tear which isn't covered but I don't think it's reasonable I should have to make these repairs so early on (minus the wheel obviously). Just wondered if I should try and get this done under warranty or if it's a lost cause.


texts: I want to install a shorter stem onto my mountain bike, can I just swap them out or will I need to get the star nut replaced or reset?


texts: BB386EVO-24mm Press Fit Bottom Bracket Cup Removal

texts:
Good day to all!
Issue
My road bike has a BB386EVO bottom bracket standard with a 24mm internal diameter (I.D.) bearing set.
I'm utilising a 24mm spindle crankset so no issues there.
What I am seeking to accomplish is the replacement of the bottom bracket, but I'm not 100% the best way to remove the current bottom bracket.
My current bottom bracket is similar to these:
C-Bear (https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/bb386-shimano-rotor-race-face-fsa)
Token (https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom-brackets/553-BB386PS)
Where the bearings have 24mm I.D.,
NOT using any reducers/adapters like this one from FSA below
(https://fairwheelbikes.com/fsa-bb386-evo-to-shimano-24mm-reducer/)
Tools
Park Tool BBT-90-3
(https://www.parktool.com/product/press-fit-bottom-bracket-bearing-tool-set-bbt-90-3)
The shaft is nominally 22mm and "fingers" are stated as 26mm O.D.. It is meant for bottom bracket standards dedicated to 24mm spindles.
I understand that the tool's fingers are supposed to whack against the "lip" of the bottom bracket cup where the bearing's outer race sits against for the preload, but because it is meant for 24mm spindles and the finger's O.D. of 26mm, I'm not sure if it will reach the "lip" of my BB386EVO bottom bracket cup.
Shimano TL-BB13
(https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/TL-BB13-Hollowtech-II-Bottom-Bracket-Tool-for-SM-BB92-p34454/)
Same concern as the Park Tool tool stated above, I'm not sure if the tool can reach the "lip" of my bottom bracket as this is designed for Hollowtech II bottom brackets (basically 41mm BB shell width).
Parameters
Price
I don't wish to splurge $50+ on a new tool.
I'm Aliexpress friendly but all those I found doesn't seem to be very suitable.
(https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?trafficChannel=main&d=y&CatId=0&SearchText=bottom+bracket+bowl&ltype=wholesale&SortType=total_tranpro_desc&groupsort=1&page=1)
Ease of repeatability
For future-proofing.
Worse comes to worst, I'll just remove the bearings and use a screwdriver to whack the cups out.
But please give me some advice, the Feynmans of the bicycle world. Thank you all!


texts: Which rack top bag fits an 11" MacBook Air with space for a little padding?

texts:
The goal is to carry a change of clothes and the MacBook Air (1.7 cm high, 29.95 cm wide, 19.2 cm deep and 1.06 kg) on a 14km commute. I've used Ortlieb panniers (on a Tubus rack) but I don't like the way my heels can hit them, they way they stick out on the sides or the way they add drag. Nicely made though! Also I don't want all the weight on one side and I don't want to carry two of them.

A backpack is way too sweaty.

The best rack top solution so far is a Rixen & Kaul Rackpack 1 mounted on a matching Rixen & Kaul Freerack (sorry, can't find a link for that one). A MacBook Air 11" (bare - no sleeve), a pair of jeans and a T-shirt are a tight fit. Other stuff goes in the side and it's workable. But I can see that it isn't a great solution because the laptop has to be placed in diagonally with the thin edge sticking up. Over time the sharp edge of the laptop is definitely going to wear through the bag, and any crash is going to cause a lot of damage to the laptop.

I have also tried a Deuter 10l rack top pack - it is also too small, not quite as good as the Rixen & Kaul and the velcro attachment is much slower and less secure.

I've got a lot of nice things to say about Rixen & Kaul. It is a very well made bag and when I had a problem with the clip they sorted it out right away. This bag is just a little bit too small to be perfect. The click fix system is great. I have thought of removing the click fix mount and assign it to some other bag but it's a last resort and chances are my home-made solution is not going to be as nice as the ideal bag I'm wanting.

Update: I looked at the Topeak Office MTX and it isn't for me. Inside it has a big divider/pocket thing that takes a lot of space and can't be removed. It doesn't appear to be particularly sturdy, especially the attachment mechanism. Their beam rack product has a quick release fastener rather than bolts so anyone could just unclip and walk away with it. The rack is just not finished as well as the Tubus/Rixen-Kaul racks I already have, it feels chunky and heavy.

The solution looks like it is the Ortlieb Office High Visibility QL3 - 30x40x17cm, 21l (unfortunately it's more expensive than the Topeak bag and rack system). While it is still side-mounted the QL3 system attaches to my existing rack so I can still use my current rack top bag with it's special mount when I don't need so much space. Position on the bike is widely adjustable so heel strike isn't an issue. It's rectangular so folded clothes will hopefully stay folded rather than falling down into the pointy bit of my older tapered Ortlieb panniers. It is waterproof without needing a rain cover. It's eerily reflective over its whole surface.


texts: Chainring just don't know when to let go

texts:
My chain needed to be replaced for half a year ago and I've finally replaced it. But after replacing it, I've notice a lot of clicking noise from the chainring area. and when I go check it, I saw the chain sticking to the bottom side of the chainring while I'm pedaling.

I went back to the shop to tell the owner what's wrong, he just say it's the friction from the chain and the chainring, it will be gone if I just ride the bike for a month or so. Now the noise is still there but not as loud as before, but is there something I should have done that doesn't require to wear off the bike chainring? Cuz I bought the chainring a few months ago.

Update: my old chain needs to be replaced but I kept on using it for almost a year already, not sure if that's the reason why.

Here is a pic of the chainring.


texts: When should the front sprocket and back cassette be replaced.I have a 2014 Trek 520 Touring bike with 6500 miles and am planning a cross country touring trip in August.


texts: What are the most important things to bring on a ride?

texts:
On one of my recent ride, my bike broke down. My rear derailleur got pushed into the rims and broke. Since I have never gotten stuck like that before, I've never bothered to take anything with me other than food and drink.  I am not too proud to say I was stupid to do so. Since then, I've been searching for the things I should have on any sort of ride.

I found some good resources, but I was hoping for a good resource on this website, but cannot find one. So, What are the most important things that every rider should carry?

(P.S. The answers would be better if they are categorized by type of ride e.g. road riding, touring, mountain biking, trail riding, etc)


texts: Noticed a scratch on my carbon steerer, should I be worried?

texts:
Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/0cWtcsS

My nail gets caught in the center and it feels sort of rough. I had my stem tightened at 4NM and the headset seemed to be properly adjusted. I have once reinstalled the stem; this time, tighenting the top cap a bit more (slightly more than needed to remove play) and setting the stem bolts torque to 5NM.

Any opinions on what this scratch could be from and how can I prevent it?

Really appreciate it, thanks!

Update:

I inspected again and it seems there is another mark from the spacer below. I think the marks may have actually been from the spacers rather than the stem. I thought I had tightened the top cap enough. Here are some pictures. https://imgur.com/a/6nkznf2. It’s very faint but there’s a line below.


texts: What kind of shoes can you use with Garmin Vector pedals?

texts: I was looking at these Garmin Vector pedal power meters, and the site says they are "Look Kéo Compatible". Can you put different cleats in them for other brands of shoes? Would they work with regular tennis shoes?


texts:
Most stores have Candy1 for $49, and Candy1SE for $39.

but i can't find the difference.

the SE have a golden spring, just like the Candy2. The plain Candy1 has a silver one.

Candy 1:

$49

Candy 1 SE:

$39


texts:
I have a touring bike with one side-bag on the back frame.
On average I cycle 60 miles a week.
How often do I need to buy new wheels?
As of late I keep buckling both wheels.
Can anyone please help with my question.
Thanks!!


texts:
I was recently really sick and stopped biking for about 2.5 weeks. Before that I was biking 10 miles per day for about 2 years.

Since getting better I've been biking 10 miles per day for about 2 weeks. I am not 100% done being sick - I still have rhinorrhea, but I feel like I am unable to go as fast as I used to before the sickness.

Am I just imaging things or did I really 'get out of shape' during my sickness? Has anyone else had a similar experience?

(On a side note, I also think that maybe the winter is making me go slower - though there is a chance that I am crazy)


texts:
My rear wheel suddenly became loose in traffic today. It is completely off axis. The axle looks fine from the outside. I remember being told something about loose cones.

Should I bother to repair this beater bike or should I invest in a road bike? This is a department store mountain bike.

And yes I took apart the rear brake because I thought that was the source of the problem ... (I.e that's not something that broke) ... Risky I know ... But I had kool stop salmons on the front so I thought that would provide sufficient stopping power. Nonetheless the wheel kept grinding against the frame as you can see in the picture so I stopped again and realized the wheel was completely off center.


texts:
Portland, Oregon is one of several U.S. cities with a progressive bicycling culture. A couple of innovations the city has implemented are "bike boxes" and "sharrows".

Bike boxes are road markings that designate exactly where cyclists and motorists should place their vehicles when stopped at an intersection with a red light. The main idea is to prevent the notorious "right hook" as a cause of collisions. The jury is still out in terms of effectiveness, but bike boxes are receiving mostly positive reviews so far. (On wikipedia these are called Advanced Stop Lines and around here they're called "green boxes".)

Sharrows are shared lane road markings on roads/lanes shared by cyclists and motor vehicles. In Portland, they are found on city designated bike routes without bike lanes. The idea being that it's a visual cue to cyclists and motorists that the lane is to be shared.

Question: What are other infrastructure modifications a community can make to enhance bicycling safety?


texts:
Recetly I spotted Kona Asphalt Commuter, one of this series here:
http://www.konaworld.com/asphalt_commuter.cfm?content=dew_plus
Why such bike is so special for me -- because right from the shop I could have all things I want in my dream bike, namely:

hardtail
fork w/o suspension
normal rear derailleur (i.e. just like in MTB bikes)
disc brakes

And big wheels (this I am not sure about because I didn't ride on 28" wheels, so I don't know if they will be good for me).
I googled, and so far I found another manufacturer making similar bikes -- Trek 7.3 FX Disc:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc/#/us/en/model/features?url=us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc
Question
Are there other bikes currently manufactured with those four features? This is essential because when buying new bike I wouldn't like to modify it right from the start.
I rephrase: I am looking for a bike which looks and feels MTB, but it is designed for speed while commuting in the city. So normal road bikes are no-go, typical city bikes and also bikes with suspensions (even in a seatpost).
Little update
More bikes -- Scott with SUB series, and Merida with Speeder (just one model here).


texts: Front deraileur not shifting to lowest gear. (New bike)

texts:
My mountain bike is a brand new Diamondback Outlook 275, two weeks from purchasing. It has all default settings and parts. It was assembled in store. The front deraileur will not shift to the smallest cog.
When the front deraileur is put to the lowest setting, the chain just rubs against the deraileur never shifting to the smallest cog. The chain stays on the middle cog.
Sometimes if I rapidly shift the front deraileur to the highest setting, then quickly put it to the lowest, it will change to the smallest cog. However this does not always change it and it will just rub on the deraileur as stated in the above paragraph.
This my first time fixing a problem like this. I was wondering if an inexperienced person like myself could handle this issue without having to pay a professional.


texts:
I recently got a cyclocomputer that measures cadence and I'm not sure what a good speed is or what benefit I would get by altering my natural cadence.  On good, level tarmac, I find myself doing about 75-80 RPM.  I'll get North of 100 when sprinting away from a stoplight, and down in the 50-60 range when mounting a moderate incline.

I don't know what might impact cadence, but I'm 5'11 (180 centimeters), 150 pounds (68 kilograms, 10.7 stone).  In addition to biking 30-40 miles a week, I do CrossFit, a combination of gymnastic and weightlifting exercises, so I've got quite a bit of raw strength.


texts: Torque wrench specs & features for small to medium jobs

texts:
I'm looking for advice on the range of torque, bit pieces and any other features I might need for smaller to medium sized jobs.

From what I read I'd need a separate wrench for the bigger jobs like bottom bracket. I'm not sure about pedals: I'm running Shimano M520 and I haven't seen them installed with a torque-adjustable wrench before, just a pedal tool. Would a non-calibrated pedal tool be alright for installation + removal?

I'd like to be able to work on things like handlebars, headset, derailleurs, crankset, brakes, shifters, racks, seatpost, & similar sized jobs.

The only carbon parts are the forks and the seat post. The largest hex bolt I've found so far is 5mm. The bike is a 2019 Fastroad SL-1, details are here https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/fastroad-sl-1-2019

Some examples of specs for reasonably priced wrenches that I've found so far are:

2-15nm adjustable torque click type, Hex: 2/2.5/3/4/5/6mm, Torx: T10, T25, T30, one-way torque
2-24nm adjustable torque click type, Hex: 3/4/5/6/8/10mm Torx: T20, T25 & T30, one-way torque

I'm leaning toward something click-type in the 2-15nm range: The bits seem to be more suited to bike component size, and I don't think any of the jobs that I could be doing with Hex / Torx ends require more than 15nm. I'm having a bit of trouble finding confirmation on that for all components though.

Some other considerations I'd like to nail down are:

Do I need two-direction measured torque for any of these jobs? Pedals probably won't be handled by this size wrench I'm guessing, BB seems way off.
Would a beam style wrench be just as good, or more suitable than a click-type?
Am I overlooking any bit adapters that I might need?
Do I actually need two wrenches for all the jobs I'd like to handle?
Am I overthinking things and will be fine without a calibrated tool?


texts: When should cyclists use pedestrian facilities?

texts:
I generally try to ride in traffic as a vehicle, following the rules of the road, stopping at red lights, taking the lane, etc. In many urban areas, you are not allowed to ride on the sidewalk (pavement for those from the UK). However, there are some times when it is unavoidable to ride more like a pedestrian than a vehicle, and I have some trouble figuring out when, or how, I should "switch modes."

Some examples:

Most bike racks are on the sidewalk. It feels silly to stop and walk my bike for the handful of yards from the street to the bike rack.
Some bike paths are accessible only from the sidewalk, not directly from the street.
When I stop at a stop light, and it goes to an all-way pedestrian walk signal. While I normally try to follow all the rules that a car will follow, it seems silly to wait (and get in the way of the first car while I'm accelerating) when I can just ride across the intersection on the walk signal.
Some complicated intersections are dangerous to traverse on a bike, but have nearby crosswalks which may be easier to use.
Some bike paths cross streets with a cross walk, which are generally intended for people who are going at pedestrian speed, not bike speed.

Some issues that I have:

Cars likely don't expect to be watching for people riding onto or off of the sidewalk. If, for instance, I need to make a left turn and go up on the sidewalk for a bit to get onto a bike path, I worry that drivers who aren't expecting traffic to go that way might not predict accurately where I'm going.
I feel like using crosswalks and cross lights weakens the "same road, same rules" type campaigns to help give bicyclists access to the roads.
I'm sometimes not sure when it's acceptable to switch modes. There are some cases where I can cut through some pedestrian paths, and ride on the sidewalk for a few hundred feet, or I can go around a couple of blocks on the road; should I be "cheating" a bit by riding on the sidewalk briefly, especially given that there are all of the circumstances listed above in which you need to ride on the sidewalk, or should I be trying to always treat myself as a vehicle and never use the sidewalk unless absolutely necessary?


texts: What are the ridges seen on sprockets and chainrings for?

texts: I've always wondered what these ridges below the teeth on sprockets are for. Can anyone enlighten me?


texts: Help Identifying Sun Cruiser Tandem Bike

texts:
I was gifted this tandem bike and would love help identifying the brand, model, and year on this! Can anyone help?
Thanks so much!


texts: Are small radially laced motor hub wheels like Swytch trash?

texts:
I saw a bike that recently had this kit installed on it, and was surprised at the radial spokes:

From having done rebuilds on 20" motor hub wheels, I can appreciate the temptation to look at going radial. Otherwise, even at 1x, correcting the spoke line at the nipple to avoid built-in stresses takes some careful work. The default angles are extreme, the space you have to work in is limited, and it has to be done at just the right point in tensioning to do it well. Getting it physically laced up is also somewhat challenging, which is probably enough in and of itself to make low-quality manufacturers look for alternatives.
I can also appreciate that with the spokes being so much shorter, forcing them to resist torsional loading in a radial pattern is less of an issue than it would be on a full size wheel. But this is a hub motor. Is there any possible way the math here to choose radial is sound? Or was this just a mistake, or a willfully cynical design?


texts: Chain slips off chainrings with a lot of pedal force

texts:
I have a 2001 Raleigh R600 road bike. It wasn’t ridden much when I got it, and I’ve recently been putting some miles on it. It was a 3x9 speed with 9 speed components. I just changed:

Wheels
Cassette: to a 10 speed with 34t largest (was 28t)
Rear derailleur to a short cage 10 speed
10 speed chain

When I put a lot of force on the pedals (standing up or high gear and push hard), the chain comes off the chainring and makes a grinding/cranking sound.
LBS said components are not compatible, but my shifting is 95% optimal on the rear derailleur. I even can get into the largest cog. If I’m not pedaling with a ton of force, it rides very smoothly and shifts fine. Chain length should be good based on my calculations.
I didn’t change the chainrings, and they could be worn. Is it that or that my components aren’t compatible and it’s misaligned somehow?


texts: Does tilting the bike on a repair stand so the fork is vertical impede any repairs?

texts:
After you've experimented with various rotations of the bike on a stand, which position do you end up using?

I initially thought that the logical position is to align the wheels so they're at equal distances from the ground.

That doesn't work so well. The handlebar will not stay put without hooking the extra support bar. (The main disadvantage of the support bar is that instead of spending a few seconds to set the bike and close a quick release, it's necessary to tinker for several times that much. If it can be avoided, at least for quick jobs, it's better.) Another factor, the bending moment applied on the seat post, may not be a cause for worry, since the bike itself is so much lighter than the rider on the seat.

In any case, it's pointless to make the bike look like it's about to fly. It's perhaps more sensible to keep the seat post (and we should be hanging it from the seatpost to avoid crushing the frame) vertical, as in the second diagram above.

Now even in that position the handlebar could tilt.

Do you tilt a bike on the stand all the way until the fork, not just the seat post, is vertical?

Update (after Henry A. Kissinger's comment)

Another way of asking this is: Does tilting the bike until either the seatpost or the fork is vertical impede any repairs? Is there any advantage to keeping the bike level?


texts: What is the logic to the order of Shimano Components?

texts: I understand that the product lines (105, DuraAce, etc.) are ranked in terms of quality, and that last years high model drops to this year's low model. Could someone lay out the logic for the naming system so I can understand it?


texts: How do I tell the size of my braking discs?

texts: Looking to replace my hydraulic disc brakes but intend to use the old discs. How do I tell the size of the discs to ensure I purchase the right brakes?


texts:
I'm starting renovation work on an old bicycle. One of the things I want to do is a new paint job.

I guess before that I'll need to sand the current paint off the frame. So I bought sandpaper. On the back of the sandpaper packaging, they state "beware when sanding lead paint".

Makes sense, I guess, don't really want to be intoxicated with lead. A quick research on Internet showed that somes bikes had lead paint or lead rust inhibitor.

So the question now is: is my bicycle lead-free? Is there any way to identify lead paint? The bike is an old Flandria, probably dates back to... I have no idea really...

What if it turns out to be lead paint? Is there a safe way to sand it, and be eco-friendly with the resulting dust? Or should I just paint over it? What about the existing rust patches?


texts: What do I do about a hydraulic disk brake piston that won't retract correctly?

texts:
My dual piston Shimano XT brakes are acting strange... One piston won't return to the right place, so one brake pad can be rubbing all the time, which doesn't let my wheel spin freely...

I have done multiple things to try to fix it. I have used grease, brake fluid, and I have also "exercised" the possible lazy seal/piston. Currently the wheel spins fine from my recent "exercising session", but the piston is still more extended than the other one.

What else could I try? Would it be worth it to buy a replacement caliper cheap from Jenson USA?


texts: Does pedaling while standing wear down the pedal?

texts:
I'm a new user. I searched for this question but couldn't find it.

While I was riding today, about 10 miles in my pedal spontaneously popped off. I was later able to repair it with a wrench, but I'm concerned that pedaling while standing excessively could have caused this. I'm very careful not to place a disproportionate amount of weight on one side or the other. Only one pedal fell off, the right one.

Is this something I should worry about? My bike is less than a year old.


texts: And how can I connect to them with my own stylish red hoses?


texts: Bike won't shift into 2 largest rear cogs (lowest gears)

texts:
I replaced the rear derailer on my bike after Schwinn sent it to me. The old one had a bent piece.

I can't shift onto the largest 2 rear gears. I set the shifter to the lowest setting, but the chain won't shift onto either of the 2 largest gears.. It looks like the rear derailer isn't aligned straight with the rest of the bike.

In comparing to another similar bike I have that works fine, I can see that the rear derailer on the properly working bike is perfectly aligned compared to the gears.

Update : I just fixed this (thanks to the suggestions) by tightening the tension cable and also by loosening the H Screw (assuming that is what it is called)...it works perfect now..

update 2 : This question seemed to have got a few views and so updating with some additional information.

The first video sent to Pacific cycles

They were awesome and sent the derailleur (I did not know what this part was called earlier) to me and I put in the new derailleur and then asked this question on stack

I sent the question above to Pacific cycles also and they also replied

with the help of folks here and Pacific cycles I was able to fix this
Luckily in my case it was a simple issue

Thanks,


texts:
I am biking nearly every day to work and back (~ 3 km), but my trousers get damaged quite fast due to the created friction between my legs and the saddle. Which then means that I have to buy new ones rather frequently. Is there any way to prevent that?

Saddle in question:


texts:
I would like to simplify the colors on my bike using white on components above the top-tube (saddle, seatpost, stem, cyclocross brake lever, LED lights, grips).  I am having a hard time finding a white cyclocross brake lever.  I have found them in black and silver and several colors in anodized alum.

Anyone know where I can find white cyclocross brake levers?
White LED light?
White seatpost?

Thanks!


texts: Trying to estimate cost of replacement for a stolen bike

texts:
The frame says "Nova" and "Columbus". I don't know the serial number. I believe the frame is aluminum. Purchased 2nd (or third) hand in California about 6 years ago.

Above is a picture I found on the internet of a bike with a apparently identical frame (color and text). I have some pictures of the actual bike, but they aren't as clear:


texts:
I'm a bit at my wits' end (not that I know that much about bikes).
I used an old Gazelle Formula Randonneur frame and switched out most of the parts.
However, after some time of (rather light) driving, the wheel always comes lose and starts jamming.
Either the wheel isn't centered anymore and rubs on the frame where you can see "FORMULA RANDONNEUR" written.

Or it rubs b/w the cassette and the frame:

The only way I can prevent the wheels hinge from being too loose, is to tightening it down so hard that the wheel won't move :)
I went to a bike shop near but they only told me to simply readjust the wheel.
While I am able to do that, I don't want to do it on a weekly basis or in the middle of the night.
As far as they were concerned "this wasn't broken" -- but this can't be the solution to the problem, I hope.
I also found
Rear wheel won't move or keeps falling off
but I don't know how well this translates from a disk brake bike to mine.
Do you have any suggestions?
Some more pictures


texts: Should my new 203mm adapter go over the existing one? Do they stack?

texts:
This is my fork:

and this is the adapter I got (SM-MA-F203P/PM):

(click to enlarge images)

The adapter is missing screw holes on the sides to fit on the fork. The bolts it came with are long enough to fit through the brake calipers, the 203mm adapter, and the adapter currently on the bike.

Does this mean they're meant to stack? Or should I go and buy another adapter with holes on the sides so I can remove the existing adapter and only fit the new one directly to the fork?


texts:
My bike is making a weird squelching sound from the back wheel. Any idea what it might be? I made a video of the sound, it's at this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zt_DAa2avX9bhJ4E-moLFJ69TSYnb2uC/view?usp=sharing

Summarising comments:

the noise is in the rear wheel
frequency is linked to wheel/road speed and not chain speed because noise continues when coasting,
noise does not change when the rear coaster brake is applied
noise only appears when bike is loaded, not walked
there is nothing rubbing on the tyre


texts: How long should a bike last before the wheels wobble?

texts:
I bought a bike for my girlfriend about six months ago. It's a women's road bike.

She's rode it a bit, but all of it on the road. She's never crashed it and it's always been in good care.

She's taken the wheel off a few times to put into a car. But yeah, each time we've taken good care of it.

Today, I noticed that the wheels were touching the brakes. It's been doing more and more later, so I've had to re-adjust and widen the brakes, but today, I realized that unless I completely undo the brakes, it won't touch.

I turned the bike upside down and realized that it was touching, because as the wheel is spinning it was kind of wobbling.

Now I'm not sure what has caused this. Like I've said, we've had it for six months, but it wasn't like we rode it all the time, the bike has never crashed and as far as we know, we've always taken good care of it.

So is it like a fairly normal thing? Is it possible to get it fixed? Could it be a flaw with the product? Should I be ringing up the bike shop I bought it from to complain? Or is six months like too long, and I should be expecting things like that to happen?

I have a Fuji Absolute 4.0 - it's been a fairly good introduction for her into riding I think. Nice and light.


texts: What are advantages and disadvantages of CO2 inflators over frame pumps?

texts: I have a frame pump that I've used on the road when replacing flats, but I always see CO2 inflators advertised at bike shops.  Are they worthwhile for the potential weight savings?


texts: Trick or tool to help line up 48 splined crank arms

texts: Besides eyeballing it and comparing the line to the seat tube, are there any tricks to getting 48 splined crank arms perfectly aligned? I must have spent a solid 15 minutes looking at them from every angle until I was satisfied.


texts: How to convert a commuter CX bike to an Electric bike?

texts:
I would like to convert my current bicycle into an E-bike.
While there are many conversion kits available and plenty of sites with tips on this, none of them quite meet my needs, or they fail to explain exactly why certain choices have been  made.
I am looking for an answer that provides insight into exactly what matters in this type of conversion.

Current situation:

I commute to work on my bike 2 times a week, which is 75Km (45 miles) round trip. My bike is a 2010 aluminium cyclocross bike with 700 x28 road tires and standard canti brakes, otherwise Shimano Ultegra parts. Front fork is carbon. The terrain is flat, with about 5% gravel roads. Location is Northern Europe, so plenty of rain.
I normally ride this distance with an average speed of 26 - 28 Km/hour (16 - 17.5 M/h), depending on wind and traffic.

Budget for converting is not very high (few hundred $, certainly below 800$), but I am willing to spend quite a lot of time on sourcing the right parts and am pretty confident in my DIY skills, including building wheels and batteries if need be. Getting another bike to commute on is not an option.

Reason for converting

Main reason for wanting to go electric is reducing travel time.
The two commutes a week per bike are a part of my exercise schedule, so reducing tiredness or getting to work easier/without sweating are not important. Ideally I would like to convert and still get a reasonable amount of exercise, only get to work faster (35-40 Km/h)/(22-25 M/h). This means that I still put in the equal amount of energy that I currently do (meaning I can reach 28Km/h on my own) and the motor supplies the extra energy required to go 35 Km/h.
 In case of a removable battery, charging at work would be an option, but an effective range of 75Km to be able to make the round trip without charging would definitely be very nice.

Decisions to make

Motor type and placement: What I understand so far is that within my budget, a direct drive 48v hub motor would be best. I do not really care about their added weight or drag when not active. For weight distribution, a front wheel motor would probably be nice, but I am not sure how well this goes along with my carbon front fork, and if it even fits (over locknut distance). When looking on e-bike motor sites, almost all of the motors seem to be very high power (500W/1000W). I really doubt whether I need this amount of power, when all I need is a little support to get from 28 Km/h to 35 Km/h. I do not expect the bike to pull me along without myself delivering most of the effort. Would something like 200W not be enough?

Choosing a controller:Controller should be compatible with the motor and battery, and not be limited in speed to at least 50Km/h. Regenerative braking would be nice, mounting to a drop-handlebar is nice, but I expect to have to make some custom solution for this anyway.

Choosing/making a battery:
Obviously, some form of lithium ion battery is best for performance/weight. But what are other (budget friendly) alternatives? Is a sealed lead battery really such a bad idea?
How much costs savings can I expect when building my own battery out of Lithium cells? and how feasible is it to import them from China? Battery mounting will probably be some form of custom rack.

Getting second hand parts:
What are my options regarding second hand parts, what is the life expectancy of an e-bike system (excluding battery, of course)? Is getting a second hand donor bike for electric parts a viable option (they are often found quite cheap here, when the battery has died they are sold for 300$) It is of course difficult to find exactly the parts (mostly motor type) you need in a second hand bike.

Question

Is there anyone with experience with such an conversion who can provide some insight into what really matters to make a fast bike go even faster with a custom DIY solution, without me having to empty my bank account?


texts: has anyone tried using MT 8000 front rings with 105 5800 set up. I'm hoping I can just change the crank and rings and adjust the front  derailleur. Any advice?


texts: It's painful to pay the local price of 15-30€ for a pump that is "very good, durable and small". To me, it is just consumable that I will use until it breaks, so I have no interest in investing too much in such a thing. How can I know what the pump is like? Are there some factors to look at to judge its quality?


texts: What was the last grand tour won on an aluminum frame?  Also, any details about the bike itself and the rider would be appreciated.


texts:
I am in an ongoing battle to try to get a squeak to go away.  Here is what I know (sorry for the length):

1) The sound is a very loud squeaking (chalk on the board) that, at its worst, persists throughout the entire revolution of the crank.  It seems to be coming from the crank/chainring/BB area, but I would not bet my life on it.

2) I think that it is likely from that area, because its periodicity seems to be linked to the crank speed, not the rear wheel speed (i.e. it sounds the same for all gears in the back, there is only one front chainring).

3) I cannot replicate this sound when the bike is in a stand, it needs to have some (not much at all) resistance.

4) I have tried pedaling with one leg at a time (hard with flat pedals) and it seems to occur for both sides.

5) When it gets really bad, nothing with shut it up while riding.  But, when it is just starting to make noise, back pedaling several revolutions will quiet it down for a minute or so.

6) It seems to be quieter in the morning than evening.  Could just be my imagination, or temperature differences.

7) The sound totally goes away when I clean and lubricate the chain, only to return about 15 minutes into the next ride.

8) Fed up, I replaces the chain, cassette, and chainring a couple weeks ago, but the sound persisted.

9) It shifts great.

So, I have a hard time believing that it is the pedals or bottom bracket given point 7.  I thought it may be some weird compatibility with the chain and chainring, but it shouldn't be.  I currently have a Nashbar 9 speed chain and a Vuelta 42t chainring (says it is compatible with 7-10 speeds).  The old setup with the same noise was a Shimano 9 speed chain with Surly fixed gear chainring.  The rear derailleur is 4-5 years old.  I thought that there could be some issue with chain tensioning, but I can't really see that either.

I think I've provided everything that I know about it, but let me know if anything was too vague.  Thanks.


texts: What bottom bracket fits a Truvativ E450 crank?

texts: My bike has a crank that is so cheap that you won't find it mentioned on SRAM's web pages. This cheap crank is a Truvativ E450, and it has a square taper bottom bracket that is worn out and needs replacement. I have however noticed that there are multiple types of square taper bottom brackets, and since SRAM's web pages provide no useful information I was wondering if anyone could answer what kind of bottom bracket this crank uses?


texts: Are there any folding adult tricycles on the market in the UK?

texts: It is easy to find folding bike, but where do you get a folding tricycles?


texts: This is a ladies step through frame with 26x1 3/8 tyres. It has the fleur de lys sign on the front and says nervex on the bb. Single speed and has cable brakes


texts: I'm building a bike on an old aluminium frame that is missing the rear derailleur hanger. I'm putting an IGH on it, so I don't need to use the hanger, but the dropout seems too thin without it. Can I do without, or is it necessary to avoid bending the dropout somehow?


texts: How to tell if a newly built bicycle wheel is safe to ride?

texts: I recently finished building my first ever bicycle wheel, and now I'm planning to test ride it. Since this is my first wheel build I want to safely test it to ensure that the wheel won't fail catastrophically while I'm mountain biking or riding in busy traffic. The wheel is both laterally and radially true, dished right, and with spokes that appears to be evenly tensioned. It looks and feels like a real bicycle wheel, in other words. But looks can be deceiving. How do I safely test a new bicycle wheel to get a reasonable assurance that it is safe for heavier useage such as mountain biking?


texts: What is this fox fork front axle part called and where can I find a replacement?

texts:
I've got a fox 36 talas RC2 from year 2006 and it's missing one of those black threaded inserts that pinches the front axle :

the part is M5 threaded, and approx. 28mm x 8.05mm
How is this called and where can I find a replacement? Is there an archive of parts numbers like for cars somewhere? I've only managed to find year 2015+ square pinch inserts so far like this one :

Thanks in advance


texts: Specialized Pitch 2017 clicks like its changed gear but hasnt

texts:
I purchased a Specialized Pitch 2017 basic model 1 1/2 weeks ago.

When I'm in gear 13 (most comfortable gear to ride on), and put extra pressure on the ride (standing up, pedal faster, harder) it feels like the rear gears have slipped a gear.

It makes the customary 'click' but I've checked both before and after and the chain is on the same sprocket. I have even turned it upside down but cant replicate it under pressure.

I know there are bedding in issues, but this shouldn't be the case under 5-6 weeks or 100 miles (160 km).

Would anyone know what the issue is?   I have it booked in for a service next Saturday so will keep an eye on it this weekend and next week. Just hoping for a quick fix before I have to take it back to the shop.


texts: What replaces Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur RD-M570?

texts:
They stopped making my current derailleur in 2003. I need to replace it. How do I choose a replacement part?

A good answer will tell me a specific part (with part number) that will replace the RD-M570. A better answer will also teach me how I can look up this information for myself.

Thanks


texts: Can I ride a Trek Crockett (CX/gravel bike) in a road race if I have a road wheelset and tires on it?

texts: I’m looking to buy a Trek Crockett and I am wondering if I could use this bike year round, even as a race bike for road criterium.


texts: Rear derailleur bouncing up and down in easiest gear

texts:
I crossing at a cross junction, so I literally only had a few seconds
  to cross because the cars beside me would turn right. As I pushed
  towards the curb I heard a loud bang.

  Anyway after that incident the rear derailleur now bouncing up and
  down while I pedal in the lowest gear. Only the easiest gear though.
  Otherwise it's shifting up and down the cassette fine.

  what did I do?

It's a shimano tourney on a this bike
https://www.cyclesurgery.com/p/orbea-carpe-40-2018-Q3414421.html?colour=122

I know at least one of the springs is intact because when I push the derailleur inwards, it springs back immediately after I let go.

with the rear wheel out, I can feel there is tension on the cage wheni pull on it


texts: Which tires should I buy for an old road bike?

texts:
I am upgrading an old road bike, which has Reynolds 531 tubing. (just to date it for you!)
I know the wheel dimensions: 700 x 28c, and have found several sets of tires, but am unsure which to choose. The bike will be used as a road bike, if that helps?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_249652_langId_-1_categoryId_242553

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_811429_langId_-1_categoryId_242553

Any help much appreciated!


texts:
I want replacement tires for this bike.  I believe they are 29" x 2.125.   Can I buy tires that are more narrow for the same rim/wheel?  2" 1.75?   Also,  Is it possible/practical to swap the wheels for 26" wheels?  One last question,  since I'm new to this,  is 29" tires the same as 700cc?

thanks


texts: Help in identifying Fuji Suncrest bike based on serial number

texts: I got an old Fuji Suncrest Mountain bike that has a serial number F1106059.  Is it possible to deduce the year of manufacturing based on this?


texts: What is the effect of adding weight to a wheel vs adding it to the frame?

texts:
There are claims often made that, eg, "An ounce of weight at the rims is like adding 7 ounces of frame weight." This is "common knowledge", but a few of us are skeptical, and our crude attempts at working out the math seem to support that skepticism.

So, let's assume a standard 700C bicycle tire, which has an outside radius of about 36cm, a bike weighing 90Kg with bike and rider, and a tire+tube+rim weighting 950g. With the simplifying assumption that all the wheel mass is at the outer diameter, how much effect does adding a gram of additional weight at the outer diameter have on acceleration, vs adding a gram of weight to the frame+rider?

I asked this question over in the physics Stack Exchange.


texts:
It's part of my front axle and I need another one like this to keep the wheel on. Links to where I could buy one would be appreciated too.

The bike is a fatbike with suspension.

Bolt threads into this barrel which looks the same on both ends which becomes the axle. The screw itself is m10x1.25 with a fat allen key insert.


texts: how do you make a chain longer with a simple chain breaker?

texts: I was replacing a chain and managed to cut the chain too short. Is it possible to make the chain longer using a simple chain breaker? If so, how?


texts:
I currently grocery shop either by walking and using a grocery buggy, or by bike with panniers.

The grocery buggy (like this one on Amazon) is very convenient, and carries more cargo more easily than my pannier bags. It's also far easier to carry groceries around the store, and up the elevator in my building.

I am looking for a bike trailer which can function as both a cargo trailer and as a grocery buggy.