texts: What is the difference between Fulcrum Racing 4 and racing 6 wheels?

texts:
I know that specialized uses a custom wheel from fulcrum racing that leaves them with a unique numbering system not found on the Fulcrum site.

Backstory is that i have 4's on one bike and 6's on another. As I plan to sell the older of the two bikes I want to keep the better of the two wheel sets.


texts: I have an old road bike I want to get a single speed crank for but don't know what fitting the bottom bracket has.


texts: I recently found this in my cycling shirt. I don't know where it came from, and what it is used for. It reads "Simson" on the other side, but I have no clue what I could use it for. Does it have anything to do with spokes?


texts: Gearing preferences of men vs. women on road bikes

texts:
Is there evidence that men and women prefer the same or different gearing when riding a road bike? In other words, in the same conditions, would both men and women generally ride in the same gear or does one group statistically prefer to ride in a higher or lower gear?

I understand that the question is quite academic as everyone is free to pick their preferred gear.


texts: Converting from V-brakes to Disc Brake without existing mounting holes

texts:
I have an Electric Bike with rear brakes which are not as strong as front disc brake (countless amount of tweaks never solved it well without rubbing the wheel too much).
So, I am looking at converting to disc brakes

Is it possible? Using which products?
I was thinking of a start with those two:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/MTB-Disc-brake-flange-disc-tray-adapter-screw-thread-switch-disk-disc-tray-refires-disc-brake/32312668990.html

And since I cant post more than 2 links, search on AliExpress for "brand new hs1 brake rotors" - the one from "Store:Carbon-Bicycle Co.,Ltd" for 9$ is the one that was recommended.

But I lost contact with the guy who guided me to those once in a train, so I don't know how to proceed what else do I need...

The frame is made of aluminium, and below you can see pictures of the read wheel, to understand the construction and my options...

Note:
The question referred to: Disc brakes on leader doberman which has no tabs and adaptors

Deals with question on how to piece together parts for the specific branded Doberman frame, while in my case, I am not entirely sure which parts do I need, and my frame is Chinese generic no-brand frame, making it much more difficult to find the correct parts that would fit together well.


texts: How to prevent my bike from tipping over when using just one pannier?

texts:
I often carry gear in a pannier on my bike rack, as in the photo below (not my bike, but same pannier design. My actual bike frame is very different; I'll upload my own picture tomrrow):

I have two panniers, but typically only use one because I usually have to carry the bag around with me at my destination, and carrying more than one bag becomes cumbersome.

The problem I run into is that when fully loaded (not beyond capacity, but close to it), my bike tips over when I prop it up with the kickstand. I always put the pannier on the same side as my kickstand, as I've learned that it tips over easier when on the opposite side.

What can I do to prevent my bike from tipping over when the pannier is too full? The easiest solution would be to distribute the load between two panniers, but that's impractical because of the challenges with lugging around two bags once I'm at my destination.

Do there exist kickstands with some sort of platform on the bottom to help stabilize them? Is my kickstand not positioned/attached correctly? Or is there some better way to balance things out so that my bike won't tip over?


texts:
On Sunday I wanted to use my free day and I planned to do a half-day ride with my mountain bike. The weather wasn't really good, but at least it wasn't raining as the days before.

I rode up a mountain for approximately 2 hours and then after a short break I wanted to ride down the other side of this mountain. I'd chosen a small path that was very muddy. Actually, it was so muddy, that my front wheel got stuck into the mud and I flew over my bike. Fortunately it wasn't too steep there and I hadn't been riding too fast (~30 km/h) so that I didn't hurt myself expect for some minor scratches on my arms and a not so deep cut in my forehead.

I finished the rest of my ride very carefully, but while I was riding, I was thinking a lot about how I could have avoided that accident. Obviously it would have been a good idea to avoid the situation in the first place, but once when you're on such a path what is a good tactic?

Should I ride as fast as possible so that my wheels can't get stuck? Or should I ride slowly? Which brakes should I use to brake?


texts: Has anyone arrived on a flight into Gatwick Airport with a bike box and then got onto the train ? I arrive late at night from Australia and have booked a train ticket to Reading but booking space for a bike box is not available on this service. Should I get a cab ?


texts: How to choose grips for trail riding AND commuting?

texts:
I use my mountain bike for trail riding (a few hours on weekends) and for commuting (20-50 minutes each day), on paved or dirt roads (I have 2 different routes).

I would like to replace the grips on my handlebars (because my existing ones are getting too old). I would like to understand which grips fit the very different styles of riding I do.

My current thinking is like this: I can do the commuting without gloves, to minimize the equipment I mess up with on daily basis, – and then I need smooth grips, which probably are a bit worse for trails. I can choose to always ride with gloves, and then I can get deeply-grooved grips (that would be better for trail riding?). Which important factors do I miss here?

I used ergonomic grips in the past, like in this picture; didn't like them.


texts: Using cheap bike computer as a cadence indicator, possible?

texts: Has anyone ever tried just using a cheap ($5 for example) bike computer but instead of using the wheels, placing the magnet on the crank arms and then calibrating it to show cadence instead of road speed?  I may try this but the computer I use only allows a 1 to 3 mm gap at most and that may be difficult to get down there.


texts:
I just installed an external bottom bracket (Hollowtech II type) on my steel bike. The manufacturer (Sugino) prescribes a 40-50Nm torque. I own no torque wrench, so I just wrenched it on pretty tight. Later on I came to bright idea to stand on a scale whilst I pull the wrench, and compute from this the exerted torque. Turn's out I've put a bit more than 50Nm on the cups, not sure how much more though. Would it be fine to leave it this way, or should I loosen the cups and redo the installation?

In other words, can over-tightening an external bottom bracket do harm?


texts: How to clean rubber and plastic parts with sticky, thick teflon-based lube stains?

texts:
I once lubed inside a Grip Shifter with Finish Line teflon lube, and used that for a long time.

Now I disassembled everything, and the outer rubber part is quite stained and sticky.

I tried to brush the teflon aside with water and soap, and even a mild degreaser, but since teflon is not exactely grease, I just spread the stains even more.

So, question is: Which substance / method should I use to clean that?


texts: Specialized tri-spoke rear wheel free hub replacement?

texts:
I'm looking to replace the free hub on my Specialized tri-spoke rear wheel.

Can't seem to find a model number,and would love to put an 11-speed free hub.
Hope for some help?


texts: Can I change my bike from a 3x7 to a 1x7?

texts: I have a 2020 trek marlin. I'd like to change my rear cassette in the future but for now I'd like to know if I can change it to a 1x using only stock parts. Is this possible to do? Or would I have to buy a completely new crankset? Or just a chainring?


texts: Before it got taken apart and striped down it said HUFFY. Trying to find out what kind/year, thinking of making a custom with it.


texts: I'm considering getting a steel frame to upgrade from my aluminum xc bike. As it will be my first steel frame I'd like to understand if there is more after ride care required than my current bike. Usually after rides now I generally just wipe off the staunchions and wash only on the weekends. If I had a steel frame that had been rust proofed would I have to do much different?


texts: Help with identifying the brand of this vintage frame

texts: Please help identify the brand of this vintage road bike frame. I am guessing it is from the late 80's to mid 90's.


texts: Bicycle with 1 tire with Presta valve and 1 with Schrader valve

texts:
One simple question: I have a mountain bike that has 2 tires with schrader valves. I bought a new tube with a presta valve by mistake.

Do you see any issues with replacing one of the tubes that had a schrader valve with a tube which has a presta valve and keeping the bicycle with one of each, or is this not recommended?


texts: I recently bought a women's Schwinn "Clear Creek" 18-speed mountain bike at a yard sale.  The rear derailleur is broken, and the rear sprockets are rusty and don't turn easily against the wheel.  I think I can replace the broken derailleur, but what should I do about the rear sprockets?  I'm not so worried about the visible rust as I am about the fact the there is such resistance when I turn them freely against the wheel.  Should I remove them and grease them somehow? Are there bearings in them that can be replaced?


texts: What is needed to change a set of wheels? + advice RE the cassette size

texts:
I've found a set of wheels I would like to put on my bike and have a couple of questions about how easy it is to DIY the job & compatibility. I have a 2010 Allez Sport Triple and want to swap the stock wheels for some Fulcrum 1 Clinchers.

Principally my question regards the rear cassette - on the bike it is a stock Shimano 9 sp (from the Sora range I think). Will I need to change to a 10/11 speed for the new wheels? Will this require changing any other components or can it be just the cassette? **

** Note: This is something I'm considering anyway (probably Shimano 105/Ultegra [one can dream of top-level parts but there is a constraining factor called money in the real world], including a complete overhaul of all components inc. levers, cranks, dérailleurs etc.) because the Sora equipment leaves quite something to be desired and it is now quite worn.

Also grateful for any tips about knowledge or tools necessary for the job and other useful tips to be aware of.


texts: Fork stays in compressed position while locked

texts:
So I recently replaced the stock suspension forks on my Giant Cypress Hybrid with a Suntour CR9 Lock-out fork
I noticed that (like my mountain bike with a Manitou fork), I can engage the lockout while the fork is partially compressed, but unlike the mountain bike’s Manitou fork, the Suntour does not return to the top position when un-loaded while locked. Instead it will remain in the position it was when I locked it.

My question is, would I be risking damage to the Suntour fork if I ride it while locked out in a partially compressed position? Or should I make sure to return it to its top position before locking?

(It may be relevant to note that the pre-load is adjusted with the same lock-out lever)


texts: What are the most effective methods of bicycling advocacy?

texts: Are all the best efforts truly local, or are there good regional/national causes (for example, the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy) that are worth supporting?


texts:
I ride a Trek road bike with 25c tires.  The recommended pressure on the tire is 100-130 psi.  Before I ride I inflate the tires to close to the max pressure no problem and my pump works fine.  But after riding around even for just an hour or so, the pressure in both tires is usually down to 80-90 psi.  The tires and tubes are brand new so I wouldn't expect them to have any leaks.
Is this normal?  Is there anything I can do about it?  I live in a major city and most of the roads I ride on regularly are pretty bumpy -- could that be contributing to the problem?
Edit for more details: The tires and tubes are 700x25c Vittoria Rubino Pro, they're both very new (<1 month old).  The bike is a Trek Domane AL3 and it's about 4 years old (link is to a newer model, my bike is older).  I had been using 28c tires until I just replaced them recently, which is why I never had this problem before (the pressure range for 28c is 80-100 psi).


texts: I know what a shifter is but I could not find a definitive answer on what an ispec shifter is or how is it different from a regular shifter. For example the 2014 shimano deore groupset says it has ispec shifters and ispec ready brakes.


texts: Im having a problem with my bottom bracket fitting my bearing cups and axle.I have 68mm tapperd thread Suntour XC pro 124mm axle .I tighten up the cups and the axle still has a lot of Play .SO I tighten the bearing cup all the way until there was no play but now i cannot thread on the outside ring. What can I do do I put spaces on the axle or buy a different axle so the outside bearing cups fit better. John


texts: What is the proper way to tighten dual bolt saddle rail clamp to stop rail slippage?

texts:
I have a 2018 Specialized Allez, with Titanium 'Hollow Ti' saddle rails. To secure them to the seat post, there are two bolts opposite each other that both clamp down the same upper plate onto the lower plate that hold the rails in place. There is also a marking for 10 newton meters at the top of the seat post. My question is, is there a proper way to secure these bolts? (What I'm bearing in mind is that the upper plate is being affected by two different bolt tensions simultaneously).

I have had the saddle slip back during a ride twice now, only noticing when my position on the bike feels off, resulting in slightly scratched up saddle rails. I have also treated the 10nm rating as a maximum, and therefore usually tighten to 8nm for each bolt. Sometimes one feels a bit easy to turn while the other can feel like it is being forced, which is why I ask if there is a proper way to do this.

There is nothing applied like to the saddle rails (like grease) that might make it slip.


texts: Spinning bike speed vs outdoor ride speed

texts: I have been riding indoor on spin bike and I average 40 km/h, would someone help me translate these speed to outdoor cycling?


texts: Is it possible to replace Shimano stem shifter SL-S441 Indexed SIS with new metal knobs but keep the clamp?

texts:
I have a Stem Shimano SIS SL-S441 (2x6) shifter on my bicycle. I want to restore the bicycle, take it apart, repaint it. I'm very much a noob and I've searched for 6 hours and unable to

find the answer to my question so here I am
unable to find another stem indexed shifter that's metal that I could swap out

What are my options? Could I keep the clamp on mine but just buy a shimano indexed shifter with the same speeds that's used on a downtube and just replace that onto my stem clamp (I've seen the clamp sold separately).

Is there a clamp + metal shifter index combo I could purchase to make this happen?

thanks in advance!


texts:
As a follow up from my previous question I decided to change my Campag Veloce 53T chainring. I bought a BBB 50T chainring. I tried to fit it over the weekend but it wouldn't fit.

I think the problem is that the original chainring is about 3mm thick where it bolts to the crank arm and the BBB one is 4.5mm. Below is a photo showing the gap where the chainring will not sit flush against the mounting points, and a diagram attempting to explain where the problem is.

I've had a look at Campy tech docs and can't find anywhere specifying the width of the chainrings at that point. I assume the BBB one just isn't compatible. Or have I missed something?


texts:
I would like to replace my 6800 FC 52/36 and 6800 FD with the R8000 FD and FC 52/36. I'd like to utilize my existing 6800 brifters, which operate flawlessly.
Are the cable pull on the brifters (6800 vs 8000) identical such that the 0.4 mm difference in chainring spread between the listed chainsets will be dealt with by way of a new 8000 FD?


texts: Inflating airspring fork with Topeak products

texts:
Today in receipt of a Topeak "Pressure-Rite Schrader Valve Adapter" to inflate my airspring fork, thinking it would work perfectly with my Topeak "JoeBlow Pro" floor pump. It doesn't work very well, as the pressure is not read at all accurately. Does anybody have experience using these two products, or similar? Or will I have to buy a specialist shock pump to accurately inflate my airspring fork?

Many thanks for any insights.


texts: Mix Shimano Deore derailleurs with Microshift shifter for Shimano

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I have Shimano Deore derailleurs 3x8 and I am thinking about upgrading my system with a combined shifter/brake system, such as Microshift's SB-R483. Microshift themeselves states that this system is only compatible with Shimano Claris 8 speed 2403,2303,3303 derailleur system.

However, half ignoring their statement, could it be possible to use the SB-R483-system for a Shimano Deore derailleur? Doesn't Shimano have an internal standard for the derailleur system so that a Shimano compatible 3x8 shifter fits any Shimano 3x8 derailleur system. Any experience or superb technical knowledge?


texts:
I was wondering why there is a torque specification on the steer tube end of the stem for mountainbikes.

The torque specification that goes to the handlebar is reasonable, after all handlebars are often made of lightweight materials and depending on the construction and the stem pressure distribution I might run in danger of crushing/cutting it. But the steer tube on mountainbike forks is usually very very solid aluminium, there is no way I could crush it. So why do some stems have torque specifications on the steer tube end?


texts:
Does anyone have a recipe for a homemade bicycle degreaser solution? I'd like to make my own degreaser solution instead of buying one. I have read about using lemon juice and various types of alcohols - white spirits, etc.

EDIT: I should have actually explained I was looking for a homemade bicycle degreaser liquid, not just cleaning liquid. I have now edited the title and wording. Sorry for the wrong title.


texts: As a 140kg, 1.8m tall (79.5cm inseam),  I will be mostly riding roads until I lose some weight, but I was thinking which wheels do you think would be better given my situation, given I want a mountain bike? Would the 29" be better since I will be mostly ride roads (at least at the start, until I lose weight and maybe try some off-road)?


texts: While reading this Wikipedia article, I noticed some photos of racers, all from the early 20th century, riding bikes with the forks installed backwards. I count at least 3 of them, so it wasn't just a single weirdo doing that. What is the purpose of this configuration? The downside is obvious (it makes the bike harder to control) but they must have had a reason.


texts:
What are some  options for a seatpost remote cables on frames without a pre designed route?

I'm considering a dropper post but would only do this if I was able to mount a remote as I like the continuous flow of being able to change things on the go.

The bike I spend most of my time on at the moment is a steel hardtail which under the top tube has a route for two gear cables and a brake hose (FD-RB-RD). I'm wondering if there was anyway to snuggly attach two lines to the brake hose hangers or if there is another tidy and safe alternative?


texts: Can't get the front brakes to stop these style bikes

texts: I started working for a company assembling bikes and I get paid by the piece which is usually fine till I get to this one bike.  The front brakes just never hold no mater how tight I get them.  Is it just the chrome rim and I can leave them as is convince the store it's got to be bedded-in by the child that buys it?  Cause I can't be taking sand paper to the rim or they'll be marked damaged.


texts: What is the purpose of the little wings on caliper brake pads

texts:
I noticed that caliper brake pads (holders) have little wings on the bottom that aren't present on v-brake pads.

What is the purpose of these little wings?

Photo by RoboKaren. Released to Creative Commons by-sa.

This other photograph on Wikimedia commons that @ojs linked to of the classic 1984 Campagnolo Delta brakes shows a more exaggerated form of the 'wings':


texts:
Not that this question hasn't been asked to death but I'm experiencing very poor shifting, here's my setup:

Shifters: ST-5700 (10-Speed Road)
Derailleur: M6000-SGS (10-Speed MTN)
Cassette: Sunrace CSMX3 11-42T (10-Speed MTN)
Adapter: Wolftooth Tanpan Inline 10-Speed (Mounted on cockpit)

My issues are shifting up into the middle ranges 18 - 24t, it's not very precise and I need to click the lever a little over. Then there's shifting down into the 11t which it struggles at times. Is there a way to solve this? I've tried mounting the tanpan on the derailleur, adjusting the barrel adjusters for better indexing but the shifting is never crisp and precise.


texts: I'm in the process of wiring my key lock throttle to the controller and coming up at a loss for how to wire them. I've scoured the internet and haven't found an answer that helps me. I know I'm getting power to the throttle because the volt display powers on when battery is connected. From what I have read, the blue wire from the throttle connects to the key ignition wire from the controller and this turns the controller on. However, when I turn the key and twist the throttle, nothing happens. If someone could please confirm the wiring for me?


texts: Rear derailleur bent (not derailleur hanger)

texts:
Got a (heavy) plastic bag stuck in my rear derailleur of my <1 year old Salsa Journeyman Apex 1, the bag fully wrapped into the derailleur wheels while I was biking at about 10-15 mph. I had to take the whole derailleur apart to remove it.

Ever since it has not shifted well (no matter how many times I index it) and it has significant vibration in the 6th gear (no others which is odd). I've taken everything apart and cleaned it thoroughly, double checked to make sure it was put back together correctly, replaced the derailleur hanger (although it didn't really seem bent) and triple checked to make sure the chain wasn't worn (bike has around 1k miles so didn't think it was and it was not).

When I look down it looks like the derailleur is bent slightly inwards, could the derailleur itself have bent? Should I just purchase a new one as it seems to be the last possible variable in the equation and Apex 1x11s are around $70. Seems to be what a shop might charge to diagnose and fix this (plus I need to wait for at least a month to get to a shop.

Any help is appreciated.


texts: damage to carbon road frame at the seat stay and drop out junction

texts: I just had a crash due to hitting a dog. My carbon fiber frame now has chip the size of a dime at the junction of the seat stay and drop out on the drive side. Should I be concerned about frame failure now or in the future?


texts: 8 speed shimano claris cassette on Campagnolo Calima C17

texts:
I'm looking to replace my two wheels and I've been recommended this Campagnolo Calima C17 Clincher Road Wheelset.

I currently have a Shimano Claris 8 speed cassette.

The wheels are described as 10/11 speed. From my reading around I think an 8 speed Shimano cassette should fit and 8/9/10 speed wheel with no problem. And I'd need a spacer for an 11 speed. Is this correct and if so how do I figure out what spacer I need? Thanks


texts:
After completing a long mountain biking trail (complete with lots mud and water etc) - what post ride checks / tasks should I be doing?

I ask this because I don't want to be taking my bike into a shop to be fixed just because I've not been maintaining it properly after a ride.

Thanks.


texts: What's the beefiest front shock (26"), avail in quick release, with travel of 100-125mm (no more)?

texts:
Details:  I mostly enjoy XC and all mountain riding. However, I also from time to time, will go out with friends on some much more intense downhill trails.   I'm also about 240 pounds, give or take.    So, while I really really like my bike, and the geometry is fine (as far as I'm concerned) even for some downhill.   The fork I'm running now is an older Fox 125 RL. But, being 245# and bombing downhill really makes me nervous.  Since my bike is pretty high-end (titanium fame, King/Thomson/Race Face.....etc), I'd like to just (if possible....and maybe it isn't) add a really, really solid fork up front.  Weight it not an issue (for obvious reasons).  Geometry obviously is, as the bike is designed for 80-100 travel up front.  I go 125....but that's it.   Is there such a thing as a fork with 36mm or larger uppers with only 125mm or less travel??

Hope I can turn this xc bike into one that can handle anything thrown at it with my 245# riding.   ??


texts:
I bought a Marin Four Corners bike and I have a problem with choosing fenders. I found information in the web that SKS Velo 65 fenders fit there, but during installation it turned out that they do not fit there (they are too wide). Marin changed something in the width of the frame over the rear wheel? Now I don't really know what to put there. Maybe someone from the community will advise or recommend something?
P.S. I would prefer something shorter at the back because I am transporting a bike in an elevator on the rear wheel.


texts: Rust proof or not the outside of a steel steerer column beneath the stem

texts:
I have a new steel frame which I am building up.  I intend to rust proof this first by using Waxoyl made by Hammerite which I will use on the inside of the frame and forks.

Should I use this on the outside of the steerer column ie under the stem etc?  I am worried about the stem slipping with this substance being oil based.  If not is there any way that I can rust proof the outside of the steerer column?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Whole Bicycle Rack Easily Removed! Is the provider liable?

texts:
The story is - Parked and locked the bicycle at a seemingly secure parking-rack provided by a supermarket. I soon discovered that someone had locked my bicycle (and their own) to the rack. Returning a number of hours later (in the hope that the person had removed their bicycle and lock) I discovered that the whole rack had been removed and my bicycle taken. The thief simply unscrewed the bolts securing the rack to the ground and made off with the bicycle. The supermarket provided the parking-rack. There is CCTV from another source of the thief in action.

It is arguable that providing the parking-rack the supermarket (in this case the party contracted by the supermarket to install the parking racks) has a duty of care to potential users to insure that the parking-rack is fit-for-purpose and not easily removable.

Does installing arguably easy-to-remove parking-racks breach this duty?

If they had installed secure parking-racks I would still have my bicycle - are they liable for my loss?


texts: Can I just cut the carbon seat tube, cut a vertical slot for compression and use a conventional seat clamp to hold a seat post in it?


texts: How long does it take living at altitude to fully adapt?

texts:
I recently moved from about sea level to about 5000 feet (1500 meters). I've read VO2 max goes down something like 2% or 3% for every 1000 feet of elevation gain, and my personal experience seems to bear that out: I can see the effects on power numbers on climbs and the trainer.
I've also read it takes about 3 days to acclimatize to altitude, but I'm not entirely sure what that means, objectively. I get the impression it means one should arrive at altitude 3 days prior to a big effort to avoid the more acute symptoms of altitude sickness, like headaches and passing out.
But I'm not sure it means within 3 days one's performance will be back to what it was.
If one is permanently moving to a higher altitude, is there some longer time after which the body will physiologically adapt to the reduced oxygen, and performance will return to "normal" levels? And if so, approximately how long is this adaptation period, and is it affected by training or is it more a function of simply living at altitude?


texts: What is the best head set for a metal fork on a carbon frame?

texts: I want to put a Chris King or cane Creek headset on a 29 inch carbon fiber frame using a rock shox SID fork.   What is the  best headset for this?


texts: Vintage bike - help with chainring replacement

texts:
I recently broke the large chainring on my vintage bike, and need to replace it, but am having trouble determining what size I need. I lost the chainring on the ride home, so am measuring the bolt circle diameter on the crankset to determine the size.

In this picture, you can see that the distance between adjacent bolt holes is roughly 109.5mm (4.3125 inches):

According to the Sheldon Brown site...

  "Multiplying this dimension by 1.701 will give you the actual BCD for
  a 5-bolt chainring"

...making my BCD 186.2595mm.

However, I'm not finding anything online with a size anywhere near that big. Can someone confirm my method of measuring is correct, and if so, any tips on sourcing a new chainring of this size? Or is my chainring size just obsolete at this point? I'm hoping to just replace the chainring, and not the whole crankset, if possible.

The crank arm is branded as Silstar, but I'm not finding any chainrings of that size under that brand either. The bike was a hobby project for the previous owner, who built it from scratch, and I no longer am able to contact him for any info on the parts.

Thank you for any info.


texts:
I've decided to get a new chainset as my current 38T Nexus is giving low speeds with my Alfine 8 speed hub. I have my eye on the 45T Shimano Alfine chainset.

Currently I have a square taper bottom bracket installed, which has a 116mm axle length IIRC. The Alfine chainset looks like it has an integrated axle and includes a bottom bracket in the package. (To my surprise, given that I can get it for £45 - is that too cheap for a product such as this?)

If I purchase this product and this product only, will I be able to simply remove my current chainset (and bottom bracket), and stick the new thing in, hassle free?


texts: What is the most secure bike rack for long distance travel?

texts: I'm looking to transport my bike a fair distance (500km) and I would like to spend $150 or less on the transport. I currently have a strap mounted trunk rack but I worry about it loosening over the trip. I do have a roof rack (stock) and a hitch (also stock.) Which would be the best option for securely transporting my bike?


texts: Crank arms are not parallel to each other. What could have caused this?

texts: It is a cottered crank. Crank arms themselves don't seem to be bent. It is a non-cartridge style spindle. Any ideas as to why they are not lining up?


texts: My Rockshox Dart 3 (Quite an old one, bought from my friend USED) froze in the winter (-15 °C). It won't budge. I thought I turned the lockout but I didn't. Is there any chance that some water got into the forks? Do I need to change the oil inside? any help would be appreciated.


texts:
I got an S-Works carbon saddle and it feels great. However, siting on it during workouts, I am feeling small nudges from these two screws on my seat post. Is it something that I did wrong? 87kg (191 lbs) rider.

Can anyone suggest a workaround? Can it be trimmed/cut using a saw, or, perhaps I should look into similar and shorter screws at a Home Depot/Walmart.


texts: How can I tell if a rim is bent or if the wheel is just out of true?


texts: I read that "training is needed" before your voice can replace a horn. Why might this be?

texts:
In a discussion about very-loud bicycle horns, alex wrote that he uses his voice.  He added that it works well and is always ready to use.

And then he added:

"And, yes, training is needed."

If I need to alert a car to my presence, I generally might yell "C'mon" so loud that my throat hurts for a few minutes afterwards.

This seems to work fine.  I don't think I ever needed any special training to learn how to do this.

What might Alex have meant when he wrote that training is needed?


texts: Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket: milling the frame necessary?

texts:
In a bike shop I recently asked for bottom brackets. The seller said, when choosing a Hollowtech II bottom bracket (like SM-BB70), compared to Octalink/square taper bottom brackets the outer (lateral) sides of the frame should be milled to be even. When they're not even I'll risk that the bearings will waer out too fast. He said even paint remainders are not allowed.

Is this right?

My frame is 7005 aluminium alloy.


texts:
I am sick of hearing guys, categorising their MTB as per the money they put on to it. Is it really that much, or their is something more like stronger, more aerodynamically built. So far, I have found expensive bikes to be more lighter and durable.

But still the question remains, what are the factors that affect more when categorising a bike. By categorising, I dont mean MTB, Road Bike, Down hill bikes. I mean what some refer to as as High Level MTB, Mid-Level MTB or some as Tier-3 Bikes or Tier-2 Bikes.


texts:
I'm interested in getting an old roadster/Dutch bike and I came across a Raleigh Royal from the '80s:

I like that it has rod-actuated brakes rather than coaster brakes, but how well do rod brakes actually work?-- I've only used caliper brakes and so have no idea how they work. The bike is far away from where I live so I can't easily ask for a test ride, either.

Thanks for the help.


texts: Can I use brake pads designed for linear-pull brakes on my side-pull cantilever brakes?

texts:
I have side-pull (dual-pivot) cantilever brakes. My friend gave me brake pads that are 'for all linear-pull brakes'.

Can I use brake pads that are advertised for linear-pull brake systems with my side-pull cantilever brake system?


texts: Indexing issues on new build, shimano 105 5800

texts:
I am in the process of building a road bike.

I currently setting up my rear derailleur. I can't seem to index the gears. I have set the high and low limit screws.

I can shift up the cassette (small to big cogs). I can shift down the cassette to every cog until the 5th one, any shifting down the cassette from here on results in nothing happening or certain gears are jumped.

Everything is new. I can't see any kinks anywhere although it is internally cabled. I am using an (11 speed) 11-32 cassette and a medium cage derailleur, all Shimano 5800.

Appreciate if anyone can provide any advice.


texts:
I own a Scott Aspect 740. On the shifter it says it is on gear 7, 8 or 9 however in reality on the rear derailleur the chain is only on 6 and won’t go past this.

I’m looking for a fix as it is very annoying having to change into say a 3 and a 4 rather than my preferred 2 and an 8 for downhill riding.


texts: What is the matter with this Shimano disc brake lever?

texts:
I got the BR-M445L + BL-M505L a month ago. I am new to hydraulic disc brakes, so I can't tell if there is any problem with air in the system or other problems. Asked a mechanic and he said the brake is fine, though.

I am unsure how to describe the problem. The lever feels awkward. The pivot point of the lever is too far forward (compared to Avid Elixir and other levers with the oil cylinder along the hose direction). I feel as if the lever is just too far from my fingers to comfortably squeeze. And I can't reduce the reach from the adjustment screw, because it then hits against my glove.

The problem is bad enough when using 2 fingers, but is terrible when using only one finger - the lever hits my middle finder and the travel is insufficient to actuate the brake.

Is there something fundamentally wrong with this lever design, at least for some cyclists. Or some trick that is a must-do (I installed the already bled system myself)?

My brake:

"Normal" brakes:


texts:
I've got an old road bike with polished steel fenders, the rear one of which unfortunately got bent during transport:

As you can see in the lower half of the photo, the two sides of the fender were bent towards each other, causing a "crease" to appear in the middle of the fender.

On the left side of the fender, as pictured above, I had tried to use some pliers to pry the side "away" from the other one in an attempt to fix the "crease" in the metal. Unfortunately, this just made a plier-shaped dent at the end of the fender.

Lastly, on the right side of the fender, as pictured above, there is a somewhat shallower and "wider" dent which also appeared after transporting the bike.

How can I re-shape the fender so that it is not "creased" and not dented?


texts: Relative efficiency of different commute bike setups

texts:
My interest is in long distance commuting (e.g. more than 50 km a day) and the relative efficiencies of different commute bike setups (e.g. drop bars vs flat bars, fenders vs no fenders, panniers vs backpack, etc).

As such, does anyone know if this type of information has been pulled together (e.g. magazine article, web page)?  I am looking for hard hard numbers (e.g. wattage or relative difference in wattage) that document real world differences associated with how one sets up their commute bike.

Why I even care

Background

Last year I had my commute bike stole. When I replaced it, I kept most of the build identical (e.g. drop bars, 2x racks, fenders, dynamo hub, disc brakes), except I also moved to an internal hub. When commuting distances, I notice this bike is slower.  On the top end I think I lose anywhere from 5 - 10 km/hr.  This bothered me so much I ended up building another commute bike, but went in the complete opposite direction (classic steel road, with low profile fenders and one low profile rack).  This second bike is so much faster I typically use it on club rides and put the carbon crew to shame.

While there is no question the second bike is more efficient (32 vs 42 km/hr top flatland cruising speed), the builds are also night and day apart so I am racking my brain to point the finger at the main culprits behind this efficiency difference.

Crazy Plan

If this type of info isn't out there, I would like to run a series of experiments to understand the differences.  I would have a designated time trial, record the power needed to cruise at a given set of speeds.  I would then slowly strip the bikes down and repeat.  The hope would be to determine the relative differences in efficiency different build decisions produce and by extension how much time difference there would be in a 50 km ride.

However before I start this, I would want to make sure this type of experiment hasn't been done before.

NOTE - There may be scepticism over how 'doable' this type of experiment is.  If the type of information I am looking for doesn't already exist and there is sufficient interest, I  am willing to draft up my planned methodology and post online for review (perhaps at a different and more appropriate venue).  I do have expertise in both statistics and experimental design so I believe I would be up to the task.


texts:
I commute on city streets and have had two punctures in 5 months: first a roofing nail, second a small shard of glass.

Punctures are a nuisance.

I've read some people recommend Schwalbe "Marathon" tires. A comment in reply to Are slick tires worth it for commuting? also mentions "Conti Gatorskins, Specialized Armadillos, Soma Everwears, et al."

Is there anything to distinguish one from the other? For example if an LBS stocks Conti Gatorskins should I say, "No, I'm looking for Marathons"? Or are they more or less equally effective (price and, more importantly but less easy to measure, puncture resistance and rolling resistance)?

My wheels are 700x32.


texts:
I need some help. I can't seem to find an answer to my particular problem.

Recently, I was riding my bike on a sidewalk since it was getting dark, and I went through a patch of weeds. It seemed fairly safe to do since I could see through them. I was trying to avoid braking and turning. There was a piece of rebar sticking out of the ground about 12-16 inches. I hit it straight on, flipped over, I may have fractured ribs or bruised them very badly. Anyhow that's how my issue started.

I have a fat tire mountain bike 26 inch tires. At the time of the wreck my handlebars turned so I loosened them to straighten them from the stem. After a few weeks of not riding, I rode my bike again and noticed when I hit the brakes my tire turned. I came home, loosened the stem and tightened the top cap, and then tightened the stem. I tested it and had the same problem. I removed the Fork and reassembled. Everything was tight. Then I noticed that the steering tube was actually spinning inside the fork when I held the front wheel straight and turned the handlebars.

Is it broken and I need a new fork? I tried reassembling multiple times, the bearings are good. I'm at a loss for ideas aside from taking it to the shop. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you


texts: Shifting direction is different for front and rear shifters

texts:
I have been riding singlespeed and 1x setups for decades. The last time I had a front derailleur was over 30 years ago, and the shifter was on the downtube then, and I don’t have any memory of how it all worked. So I’m experiencing a time warp of sorts when it comes to multi-geared bikes.
Recently I bought a cargo bike (Mongoose Envoy) with a Shimano 3X drivetrain. I love having the extra gears, but I’m totally shocked that using the thumb lever on the right shifter gives a downshift, but using the thumb lever on the left shifter gives an upshift. And vice-versa for the triggers…using the trigger on the right shifter gives an upshift, but using the trigger on the left gives a downshift. It’s completely counter-intuitive to my brain and I can’t imagine the reason it would be this way.
First of all, is my bike assembled right? Is this the normal way all bikes are? If this is the “standard” setup, how did this convention ever arise in cycling? Is there some advantage to the controls being opposite that I’m not able to appreciate? And lastly, can I change the cable routing somehow so that the front derailleur both shift the same “direction”?


texts: What can be done to fix a hub that has come apart?

texts:
I noticed recently that my rear tyre was rubbing on the frame when I was pedalling hard; the wheel had a bit of horizontal play in it, so I thought the cones might need tightening. Anyway, I left it another couple of days, until at some point the wheel suddenly developed a lot more play in it than before. I looked down and saw this:

TL;DR: My rear hub currently looks like this. You can see the bearings inside; none have come out yet and I've stopped riding the bike. Will a hub service sort this out? Or is it likely that I will need a new hub/wheel?


texts:
I've recently started commuting via bike to work (6.5mi each way), and am looking for advice on gear... specifically sunglasses (which I find useful to prevent dust in eyes and to help block the ample sun).

Currently I'm using an expensive pair of Oakleys (not meant for riding per-se), but I'm wondering if I should get a specific pair of glasses that are preferred by riders.

Any suggestions on brands or even specific models would be nice.


texts:
I have Tektro R320 Calliper brakes on my bike:

http://planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BCTKTR320/tektro_r320_brake_caliper

It's time for some new pads.

However, the ones on this appear to be all in one, bolt straight into the pad on the calliper.

If I look on wiggle, my usual online component supplier, there are lots of blocks for cartridges, or blocks like this:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/swissstop-flash-pro-green-high-performance-blocks/

But not so many options that look like what is in the Tektro OEM.

How do I know what I can fit? what's compatible?


texts: I am missing the piece that holds the cable in the shifter body.  Does anybody know if I can buy just that part?  Are the treads standard and a could buy an inexpensive shifter and just take off this piece?


texts: The bike Weight and Performance gain for Lightweight riders?

texts:
I keep hearing people saying:

  The bike weight isn't a problem, rider is.

My girlfriend is only 48 kg, and a mtb hardtail usually 13-15kg (full suspension would be more like 18kg for an older one), which is already 25% of the total mass.

Is there any huge difference going from 15kg bike to 7-8kg?

I would like to acknowledge the points that others have made:

Cycling/pedalling skills (sorry, not applicable in this question, but
good to know)
Weight/Cost/Performance dilemma (choose 2 out of 3, and this question
chose Weight+Performance)
Power output / Acceleration and Speed difference with respect to Bike
Weight's difference

Edit: It is performance vs bike weight, please avoid adding other unknown parameters. It is worth mentioning those for the benefits of other cyclists, but please do not focus on unknown variables.

Edit2: I agree that in real world, you need to take into account other variables. However, my approach is focusing at the bicycle (not cyclist, and in my subjective view, I certainly cannot tell my gf to get fit to ride the bike I made for her...), then whatever components is not feasible for "real-world", replace it with inexpensive alternatives.


texts: Can a front wheel have a different number of bearings on each side?

texts:
I took my old, filthy bike apart to clean it up.  I have never done this before!

When I took the front wheel bearings out, I ended up retrieving 9 from one side and 10 from the other.

It seems like logically there are a few explanations:

There were actually 10 each side but I dropped one without noticing.
It's designed to have a different number on each side.
It's not designed to have a different number on each side, but the bike shop put it together wrong and I've somehow got away with it over the years.

I honestly think I was being super careful and that it's not (1), but I'm prepared to accept it could be that if the others are impossible!

And I guess in practical terms, what I really need to know is ... should I put it back together with 9 on one side, or should I buy some new bearings so I have 10 each side?  I think I read somewhere that 10 each side is standard for a front wheel.


texts: Why 9 speed front derailleur cannot handle 10 speed rear derailleur?

texts:
Some people are using non compatible components on their bikes. For example, using Tiagra's old 3x9 speed FD (4503?) with a 10 speed RD. And it works.

So what is the point of saying "Dear customer, this Tiagra FD will only work with 9 speed RD's, never combine with a 10 speed one!".


texts: which motor is used to change gears in automatic gear shifting cycle now-a-days?

texts:
I am doing a project on automatic gear shifting. I need to choose which motor will be used to change the gear.
I have found a previous question on this topic. An answer mentioned:

If you used a fairly hefty RC servo motor I think it could work

Which motor is used nowadays for automatic gear shifting? Which motor will be perfectly suitable for my application? How much power will be required for a gear shift and to hold the wire in a particular position?
I am interested in the exact value of torque/power required for a single gear shift in 7 geared cycle.


texts: How to get a broken torx bit out of a bleed screw?

texts:
In the latest episode of my disastrous bike maintenance attempts, I got a sub-standard torx bit that broke off in the bleed screw of my Tektro Vela disc brake caliper.

Here's a sligthly overexposed picture of the brake caliper in question, the bleed screw is circled in red:

And another shot from the side. Notice how the bleed port is recessed rather than the bleed nipple you'd usually see on a Tektro brake.

Considering that the screw is slightly recessed into a somewhat expensive safety device, I'd like to find out a way to get the bit out in the least destructive way. If all else fails, I'm considering eating crow and taking my bike to the LBS in the hope that they'll have the tools, experience and/or spare parts to fix this.


texts: Help identify BMX please - possibly 80s or early 90s

texts: I recently picked up this old BMX bike for AU$5 at a garage sale. I was originally only interested in the Skyway Turbo Disc chain wheel, but decided I would strip the whole thing and give it a new lease on life. If anyone can ID the make, and even better the model, I would be very grateful. The frame has a distinctive gusset at the intersection of the top tube, down tube and head tube.


texts: Could paint build up on a bottom bracket be considered a warranty issue?

texts:
On Saturday I received the new frame for a steel xc bike I'm building up. I went to start on the weekend but noticed a large paint build up on the bottom bracket. The build up is about 15x3mm (don't have a photo) on the outer face and lip of the BB. This will require my LBS to face the BB before I start the build.

People I have spoken to at work believe that I should contact the seller (a major online retailler) about the build up as a warranty issue and see if they will cover the costs as one should reasonably be able to expect the frame ready to be built.

Are there any common accepted practices that I should be aware of around this before contacting the retailler?


texts: Can a 11-speed derailleur be used with a 9-speed shifter?

texts:
Can a 11-speed derailleur be used with a 9-speed shifter
I want to buy a 11-speed derailleur and have  a 9-speed shifter so will they work together or not?


texts:
I'm going to be moving to a semi-urban area in a few months. I'd love to buy a bike to be able to travel around the town.

I don't want to spend too much money. I'd say the best < $300 can get me.

What kind of bike should I get, and what would be the best way to go about this? Visit a local bike shop? ebay? Craigslist?


texts: I have a hybrid bike which the frame is too big, is there any modifications I can make to make it more comfortable?

texts: I bought a hybrid bike from halfords around 6 months ago, however i have only recently had chance to ride it. I have found that the frame is too big, they wont exchange or give me a refund. I was wondering if there was any modifications i could make for it to feel more comfortable?


texts: I want an cool urban/track bike with 3speeds. Could you recommend me one?

texts:
Good afternoon,

I would like to buy a cool urban bike based on track design: sort like a tuned fuji feather and so forth. I would like it to be light and instead of a single speed, have 3 speeds. I want a simple cool urban bike I can fix myself, but not a fixie or a single speed which is not enough because I like the road too.

I have been looking all over the place and can't find any bike that suits me.

Can you recommend me one?

Thank you :-)


texts: Adjusting air pressure in the Tyre /Tire

texts:
I own a Trek 3500 and am an avid biker... I bike on roads mostly, but sometimes on trails too.. Is there any information anyone could share that would assist me in adjusting air pressure in the Tire? or is it through and through fully filled up tires?

I feel that there might be a necessary modulation to better the ride experience on flat and smooth (road) and difficult (trails) tracks...


texts: Precautions when riding in long-term low visibility

texts:
Heavy fog or a narrow, overgrown and winding trail, can reduce visibility to 3 meters. Those conditions can continue for hours, and the safest approach 'don't go' cannot be always taken.

I find that riding with appropriate speed as to be able to stop within those 3 meters can be quite fun and rewarding riding experience. This allows for safely intercepting tourists and animals (boars, turtles, bears, cows, horses).

However, should a runner or another cyclist approach from the opposite  direction, being able to stop by the end of your vision field becomes insufficient to avoid a crash. What steps can be taken to reduce the ever present risk of this happening.

One approach is riding at walking pace or just walking. This seems appropriate to city parks or heavily inhabited trails. However, on a winding trail, this could mean pushing the bike for hours. Clearly not mountain biking!

I have used a small speaker with quiet popular rock music. No idea if it did increase safety, but it did annoy some tourists, wanting to enjoy nature and peace.

The only bike-only trails in my country are several downhill racing courses. All other trails are shared, with widely varying traffic loads.

I have trails like this in mind, but with more vegetation and more turns:


texts: I have a foreign bike, and don't know what pressure to pump it to

texts: I have this old bike, I assume it's Italian from what I've been told by the former owner, and a Google search, but some parts say "Made in France" and "Made is Switzerland", etc... The tires are very mysterious in the way they display pressure. "25-622 (7000)" is what the tire says, along with "25-622 700c  Michelin —ELAN" I don't know the unit, and 622 psi seems wrong. Someone please tell me how much pressure is acceptable?


texts: Are all 9 speed chains compatible with all 9 speed systems?

texts: My current chain is x9, but it's expensive in eBay. Can I use any 9 speed chain like on this page?


texts:
My bicycle was stripped of parts (both wheels, seat post and saddle) outside my house and I'd like to replace them myself as the shop is looking for a huge sum of money to do it.

This isn't the exact site I bought it off as the original ad was taken down:

http://www.littlesportbikes.ie/product/7-3-fx-trek/

I have found the following so far but I'm not sure if they will fit.

Rear Hub - https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHIMANO-FH-RM30-wheel-quick-release/dp/B00443F5ZO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482231615&sr=8-3&keywords=Shimano+RM30

Skewer - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-RM30-Schnellspanne-Quick-Release-Silver/dp/B008E4K9V4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482231678&sr=8-2&keywords=RM30+quick+release

Cassette - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-11-32-HG50-Speed-Cassette/dp/B001QWEOVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482231748&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano%2C+9-speed%3A+11-32

Seat Post - https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Sports-Outdoors/Truvativ-Hussefelt-Single-Seatpost-Offset/B004YIDSS0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482232932&sr=8-4&keywords=27.2mm%2B20mm%2Boffset&th=1&psc=1

I'm not sure of a replacement for the front hub, saddle, skewers ans wheels. I have replacement tyre's already (x2 schwalbe marathons)

Does anybody know if these parts will fit and what alternatives I can use for the unlisted parts?


texts:
My bicycle was recently stolen and I'm now trying to get a replacement.

I had the Merida Crossway XT Edition (http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cross/2015/crossway-xt-edition-lady-2875.html ).
It is a wonderful bicycle. I made more than 3000 kilometers with it in about one year.
This is considered a cross bike.

Now, besides this, there is the cyclo-cross type of bicycle that and I was looking at the Cyclo Cross 500 model (http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cyclo-cross/2015/cyclo-cross-500-2871.html )

There are more differences but what I'm mostly concerned about is the lack of suspension on the fork. I read a bit and it looks like the cyclo cross bikes don't have normally such a suspension.

I'm at that age when you start to feel stuff about your body (hopefully just in a phase thou) and for a couple of months I feel my back is not very happy. Therefore I am asking:
How big of a difference would I feel with a cyclo cross bike without a suspension in the fork? Is this type of frame absorbing more shocks/vibrations than the frame with suspension of is the the other way around?

I am also interested in other differences like the handlebars and the lack of some low speeds but while I might live with these, too much vibrations might be a deal breaker.

Many thanks and happy riding!
Mario.


texts: Cheap MTB with future upgrades v/s costly fully ready MTB

texts:
Since my budget isn't that great, and I wish to get a full suspension MTB(due to local road conditions, which are rocky trail like for kilometers together).  Would you recommend buying a mid range full suspension MTB, and then upgrading some components over time as funds become available?

For example, in India, the GT Verb Elite(https://www.trackandtrail.in/cycles/gt/verb-elite-27-5/) is available here for INR 84K, while the Firefox Raptor(http://www.firefoxbikes.com/BikeDetails.aspx?BikeId=177) costs INR 26.6K. The GTVE has a great frame, great suspension and forks, and also a good drive train. The FFR has extremely basic suspension and forks, but has Tourney front derailleur and Acera at the rear. The rear shock is a fairly basic KS-261, and SR Suntour 75mm travel front forks. Would it be OK to buy a good enough platform such as the FFR and then after a while, upgrade the shocks and fork, and then the drive train? I understand that a very upgraded FFR will never equal a bike like the GTVE.

These bikes are only mentioned as an example, and this not a question about merits of buying one of these bikes over the other.

Edit: I go for 20-30 kms rides on weekends. There is a main road (state highway) going through my town, with lots of car traffic, and no marked divider or lanes, which makes cycling a hazard. So, the rides are on back roads which run through rural areas, and the roads are atrocious. Many places, there is no tarmac, and dust and rocks mark the path. Which makes hardtails a bit of a PITA, literally.


texts: Cycling into tunnels with claustrophobic person

texts:
you are cycling in pair
you may need to travel through tunnels (lenght can vary from few hundreds meter to about 7 kilometers)
your travelmate is claustrophobic, therefore tunnels are a challenge for him
avoiding the tunnel is not always a practical option (it may need a 50 km detour)

Under these conditions, which would be the best approach to prevent as much as possible issues like panic attack, irrational behaviours etc.?


texts:
I took my mountain bike out yesterday in the snow. Did some hills around town, riding through slush and puddles, and all sort of dirt/mush/ice/snow.

I gave the bike a pretty good wipe-down after the ride, but I have my outside spigots turned off, so I didn't hose it down.

Should I be worried about potential damage to cogs/rings/chain/etc, or any of the other components on the bike? It's a Specialized Epic, aluminum, full suspension.

Thanks


texts:
Threaded bottom brackets

are much simpler to install
require minimal tools (press-in requires a $300 press)
are automatically aligned, as the thread was cut in the factory.

So what is the reason not to exist headsets, the cups of which thread into the headtube? And be the most often used ones?


texts: Is the Trek Navigator 200 too hard to restore

texts:
I got a freecycled Trek Navigator 200 that based on my assessment seems to be from 2004.

I have repaired one bike before and was thinking about taking the this one as a new challenge but it seems to me that this one may be too hard.

From now I noticed the bike need:

Frame paint job
New rear wheels (the old hub seems to be disintegrating and currently wobbles), spokes don't look great
And a new fork...

What the fork...

From my measurements, the steering bar seems to be a 1" inch in diameter but a shocking 265mm of length.[1][2]

I was thinking about replacing the fork with a rigid but I am finding it  pretty hard to find forks with such a long tube.

Should I just give up or are odd solutions like using a 650b or a 700c fork things I should consider?

Sources

[1] http://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fisher-Klein-Lemond/2004specmanualTrek.pdf

Note the 235mm head tube on page 34.

[2] https://www.bikeforums.net/19741961-post4.html

Note the author surprise to the lenght of the tube


texts: Why is a proper road bike pedal preferred for road bikes?

texts: I've been riding road bikes for a couple of years, but with mountain bike pedals, I've been thinking about switching over to a road bike pedal, but what's the reason? Is the performance improved or is it more about conform?


texts: What is the actual size of a 26x1.5/2.2 tube?

texts:
I've got some spare Specialized "Airlock" inner tubes that are size 26x1.5/2.2. That means 26 inch rims, but what does the 1.5/2.2 mean? It fits 1.5 to 2.2 width tires or something else? Curious what this kind of size specification means.

Secondly, will it be advisable to use it on my bike that has 26x2.1 tires?


texts:
I'm looking to get an MTB and have been looking for this particular one for quite a while but stock is hard to get hold of.  I managed to find one in a store but the bike is damaged unfortuntely and the store is offering it with a discount of 10% because of that.  The damage doesn't bother me too much but I don't know much about carbon fibre bikes and it seems like it is pretty deep so wanted to understand if this will cause me long term issues, I'll probably have this bike for the next 10 years.
Should I buy it or is this kind of damage not worth it / going to cause me issues later on?

Close up:


texts:
I have rim brakes on my bike both rear and front, but have been lately decreasing in efficiency, making weird noise when I brake hard and the braking distance has increased too.

Neither my brakes nor my rim have any problems like wear, tension, gap and such. I clean off dust from the rims every now and then. Any ideas what might be contributing to the decreased efficiency of my brakes?


texts: Please help me identify this bike frame?

texts:
Please help me identify this bike frame for I am a newbie/novice. I will greatly apppreciate it. It appears similar to some 1950s Huffmans, but I am far from certain.

Thanks to all in advance who help!


texts: Using hub-dynamo for both lights and charging, with priority on lighting

texts:
I currently have a Supernova E3 Pro powered by a Shimano hub generator, and I would like to add the ability to charge USB-powered gadgets. My main concern, however, is that simply wiring up a charger in parallel to the lights would result in dimmer lighting at slower speeds (I already notice a decrease in brightness going up a steep hill when I'm tired).

Is there any way to wire things up so that the lights get priority, and charging only occurs when there is excess power available? Perhaps by using some circuit that would only provide power to the charger when the dynamo voltage exceeds a certain point?


texts: Every now and then I see on a bike shop's website that they will have last year's version of the same model of another bike, but it's marked down by a few hundred dollars.  Unfortunately, from what I've seen these are usually pretty few and far between.  Is there a good place to look that has a good selection of outdated bikes (preferably road bikes)?


texts: What purpose do the rubber 'hairs' have on new tyres?

texts:
Up close you can see at least three 'hairs' of rubber from this picture from the side of my tyre:

Why do they exist? I've heard they are just a bi-product of the manufacturing process.


texts: Android tracking app that only periodically uses GPS

texts:
I'm of course fully aware that there are tons of tracking apps for Android. But I want to track where I rode without draining my phone's battery. I want to know roughly how far I want, roughly where I went, and when I stop at a place for a few minutes, I want to be able to find that place later.
Runtastic (now renamed to "Running" by Addidas) did a great job at that before all the bugs that cause it to crash were introduced, except it drained my battery because I always used GPS. They had a heatmap-like tracked path on a map so you could see exactly where you slowed down. So you didn't even have to trace your path later on trying to find that place you went to. You could just check out the few places where you weren't moving for several minutes.
Google Location History does a good job at not draining my battery. However, its accuracy SUCKS. It often shows track sections of over 10 kilometers where I according to Google Location History went in a perfectly straight line right through lakes and dozens of buildings.
I'm looking for some middle-ground here. For example an app that only records my GPS coordinates every 10 minutes and then uses map data to figure out where I probably went and that can show me where I went slower or stopped completely. Of course it doesn't have to work exactly this way. But it shouldn't use GPS so much to drain my battery and not use it so little that I have no idea where I went.


texts: What is this point of this Phil Wood "Rohloff Disc Rotor Compatible Hub"?

texts:
http://www.philwood.com/products/hubspgs/rohldisc.php

As far as I can figure it is for people with Rohloff-equipped touring bikes so that they have the same rotor bolt pattern on their front and rear wheels, to make spare parts management easier for long-distance tourers.  Is that it?


texts:
Let's say you persuade some significant other to ride with you in the city. You both have good bikes, they are inexperienced, and you are (I am) used to commuting, including in traffic.

How do you prepare the inexperienced rider to ride in traffic, and keep them safe while they learn and practice? How do you instruct them while riding?


texts: Relation of rebound setting and pedal choice

texts:
I used to ride clipless pedals all my MTB life and have recently switched to flat pedals because I feel that having my feet free makes me experiment more with my riding technique and progress faster. I have ridden a very quick rebound all the time and felt comfortable with it when riding clipless but when I switched to flat pedals my feet were kicked out of the pedals. I've adjusted to a slower rebound and feel comfortable now.

But this makes me wonder what the correct rebound setting when riding clipless is. Should it be set as if my feet weren't attached to the pedal? Or is the idea that you can ride a quicker rebound since your feet will stick to the pedals anyway? (of course only as long as the rebound isn't so strong that it kicks your body to the bars)


texts: What is the generic name for the gear shifter where you have one trigger for the up shift and another for down shift?

texts:
I recently bought a bike with new advanced gear shifters where you can shift easily as the shifter has a trigger for the up shift and downshift? I would like to replace the twist shifter in my old bike with these but do not know the generic name for it.

So I would like to know the generic name for it so that I can get the old ones replaced at a bike shop.  This one comes with integrated brake lever and position indicator


texts: Why are both Schrader and Presta valves still used on tubes?

texts:
It is standard for road bikes to adopt Presta, whereas nearly all else use Schrader.

I personally think Schrader are better:

I've had fewer Schrader valves break on me than Presta
No problems if needing to use car pumps
Have also seen long Schrader valves for deep rims
Less fiddly


texts: Legal to ride bikes on sidewalks in Seattle?

texts: I know in parts of the US it is illegal for bicyclists to ride their bikes on the sidwalk.  I've been seeing it a lot in Seattle, WA, US and not sure if it's allowed.


texts: I have a Raleigh maybe 8 years old with shimano 15 gears. How do I reassemble the rear gearing after fitting new tyres? Everything seems to be in correct position but a small bolt with captive nut seems to fit in a triangular hole above the axle, on frame but this then throws the gear all out of position. Any ideas?


texts: I have a mongoose malus. It has a 36t chainring in the front and a 7 speed in the back. If I wanted to have higher gears can I replace the front chainring?


texts: What did people ride for cold weather cycling "back in the day?" (Is it cheap?)

texts:
Everyone who has ridden a bike any real distance in the cold has likely noticed a few things.  Due to the speed to effort ratio of the bicycle, certain thermal realities have different relationships than they do on foot.

For example; a cyclist who is going up a hill can easily become hot and sweaty in clothing that would not sufficiently protect a sedentary person from the cold.  If, however, they were to go down a hill shortly thereafter, they might find themselves facing an improbable gust of wind... with increasingly wet clothing from the prior effort.

To say nothing of if such a poorly protected cyclist were to start by coasting downhill in clothing insufficient to... either way welcome to my commute.

Now, there seems to be a vast array of, well, fiber technology meant to protect someone in just this scenario.  I found that even wearing a $10 jogging undershirt made a huge difference over cotton.  ("Cotton kills" as the boy scouts say.)

But that segue into my question: what exactly were people doing BEFORE spandex (aka lycra) and other synthetic fibers?

If you believe the industry, you'd think you HAVE to have the more advanced stuff, but I doubt that people just stopped riding in the winter before it was invented... or did they?

(And can I avoid buying any kit by imitating them?)


texts: I have a bike with a ratio of 3.11 to 1, how many links do i need in a chain?

texts: I legit just broke my bike chain riding it. One of the links just snapped and i wanted to replace it with a brand new chain that will hold up better. How many links do i need in that new chain so that it will fit on my bike?


texts: For folks who frequently swap forks (i.e. rigid fork for one race, suspension fork the next weekend, back/forth) how do you manage headset/crown race compatibility? I assume you end up with matching crown races on the forks so that you don't have to remove/install with each swap? I'm not seeing many resources online where one can buy an extra matching crown race for my headset....is this common? Maybe it's just not something that is 'retailed' often but the LBS would have to 'special order' it from the manufacturer's catalog? Any known retailers sell complete headsets with TWO crown races? Or am I way off track - is there a different way to approach this?


texts: Shifter/brake-lever compatibility with front and rear derailleurs

texts:
I am currently converting my bike from flat bars to drop bars for a long touring cycle. I used to have Shimano SL310 shifters (8x3), but have now bought Shimano Sora ST-3300 (8x3) to mount on the drop bars.

I understand that such levers have a shorter "pull" than my previous ones and therefore require different components elsewhere. This is easy enough with the brakes, I've bought cantilever rather than caliper brakes, however, I'm finding the derailleur situation more complex.

The Shimano archives suggest pairing the levers with a RD-3300-SS (http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-5TT0A-000-00-ENG.pdf), but with a drivetrain capacity of 35 and max cassette size of 32T I think I would need the longer cage version RD-3300-GS. This is quite old and hard to find, I would rather simply buy a new one. Does anyone have any suggestions as to newer models of rear derailleur that may work?

Would a newer Sora model (which all seem to be 9 speed) work? I'm worried about the cable pull ratio.

I am yet to delve into the front derailleur issue but I assume it will be along the same lines.


texts:
I replaced my chewed up retainer bearing with a rusted but not so chewed up retainer bearing. What happened to the old one was that it was installed backwards and the retainer itself was completely trashed as it was doing the job of the balls.

The new bearing is a bit rusty and it's balls are smaller. However, all headset play has been eliminated and steering is pretty smooth.

Should I get brand new bearings anyway? Are there any practical downsides to running rusted bearings that fit but use smaller balls? Any possible damage to the cup?


texts: Brakes feel like they are not even there on my used road bike. How can I fix it?

texts: My friend gave me his old sanwa road bike that had been sitting in the snow for about a month. It looks like the one from the 1979 movie "breaking away" but with a different color and brand (to give you an idea of how old it is). Anyways, the brake pads look brand new, they look like they engage properly when I use them, they stop the tires instantly when I use them while I have my bike flipped upside down, but then when I hopped on my bike and pedaled to about 10 mph and pulled the brake levers, I could hear the brakes quietly squeaking a bit against the metal rim of the wheels, but it took 50 feet and a crash into a 10 foot tall pile of snow in an empty parking lot across from my apartment to stop... They felt like they had been cut as soon as I hop on the bike but work fine when I'm off it. From what I can tell, they are supposed to be positioned so they hit the metal wheel rim (they are), in a "V" shape pointing forward (they are), and from what I can tell they just barely don't touch the rim while I'm not pulling the levers. Any ideas on how I can fix this? Any and all help would be appreciated! Thank you.


texts:
Was riding my bike over a jump when i lost control and bailed. This led to a tiny part on top of the brake lever to snap and come off. Cant find any details on the part and its not on any diagrams or part lists. It looks like a little black, plastic screw with three bits coming down from it. Its the Shimano M355 Hydraulic MTB Disc Brakes. Picture attached, hope someone can help.
Thanks,
Ben


texts:
Does anyone have direct experience with the ParkTool Team Race Stand or other brands/models of bottom bracket repair stands? If so, do you like it and why? A good answer for me will include the following:

Describe your personal experiences using this type/model of stand.
What characteristics of the Team Race Stand make it better/worse than the alternatives?
What other repair stands like the Team Race Stand have you tried?
What is the Team Race Stand best at? What is it worst at?

I'm shopping for a new repair stand and very interested in the ParkTool. I have a 20 year old folding ParkTool stand that clamps onto the frame and it's not suitable for my newer bicycles. In my household we have 3 road bikes (2 carbon), 2 commuter bikes and 1 mountain bike.

The reviews for the ParkTool stand are generally good, but unfortunately the product is not heavily reviewed; and none of the local shops stock this model so that I can get a first hand look.

Note: I am familiar with and have used several models of "seat-clamp" repair stands, so I don't need a description of how those work.


texts:
Iam checking out my mtb for it's parts.

How do I be sure, for the cage length is the right one, if the differnce between the large and the small at the rear is from 42 to 11, and from 36 to 26 at the crankset.
Before replacement by the chain, What is a chain guide for.
How can I check, if the chain line is correctly measured before I replace the crankset and the chain.


texts:
I've had my bicycle for about three and a half years. I use it just about every day, for a total of 30 kilometers of commute a day. The problem is that my disc brakes have started making weird noises when braking. For the front one (less used), it's a shrieking sound, and for the rear one it sounds kind of like a gremlin or someone clearing their throat.

I suspect this has to do with disc brake wear, so that leads me to the question; after what distance traveled or time used should you replace a disc brake?


texts:
On my cycle to work this morning I noticed my back wheel was skidding out as I was going up a fairly steep hill. It did it enough that I thought I'd probably gotten a flat, however upon inspection it seemed fine.

I'm a bit of newbie (perhaps done 25 rides on my new-ish road bike) - am I right in thinking my back tire maybe just needs a bit more air in it? It seemed pretty pressurised although some of the bumps I went over today seemed a bit more more shocking than normal.

Are there some other things I should look for? I wasn't turning very hard at all when it lost traction.

Cheers,
John.

Update - details here:
http://www.sportstracklive.com/track/detail/johnhunt/Cycling/159913

Update2:
Yes, I do wear cycling shoes that clip into the pedals, and it did happen at a particularly steep point on the hill. I guess I ought to try and stay seated a bit more - just after the previous two hills it's a lot easier to attack up the last one.


texts: Mountain bike rain coat / jacket (packable, not for winter)

texts:
I am looking to get a thin rain coat.  I have a good one for the depths of winter (it needs water proofing again), but it is way too hot to wear it any other time. (I am a portable radiator.)  My hope is that it would be thin, so not too hot, and that it will pack down into a small size so I can store it in my bag whilst riding. (I like to do long rides so may not want it all day.)

I do 70/30 offroad to on road riding, as much off road as I can get but I don't have the best selection of hills at my door step.

I am happy to build up my layers so that the coat is only there to stop the rain.  Main points I guess are:

stops the rain
will not get me too hot
packs away small for transport when not needed.

I swear I saw a good review of half a dozen or so such jackets a while ago, but for the life of me I can not find them anymore.  Does anyone know of a good jacket, or even better, links to good reviews to be able to look at the best options?


texts: Change old external ultegra brake cables to under the tape brakes

texts: Is it possible to change my old external ultegra brakes to integrated brakes ?


texts: Kickstand compatible with 2011 TREK Utopia

texts: Will a kickstand fit on a 2011 Trek Utopia? I'm told the standard that bolts in near the front gear won't fit and I read that the one that mounts near the rear axle won't work with disc brakes.


texts: Replacing the front derailleur: unlink the chain?

texts:
If I want to replace the front derailleur on an already set up bicycle (replace SRAM Apex with SRAM Force), do I have to unlink and relink the chain on order to thread it through the FD cage? Or can I open the cage instead? I notice that the FD cage has a screw near the bottom. Can I just unscrew it, open the cage, put it over the chain and replace the screw afterwards? It looks like a have to force the cage open for that to work, risking damage to the cage.

Virtually every FD replacement guide on the Net does it by threading the chain through the cage before the chain loop is closed, but most of them apparently refer to new setups. What about the situations when the chain is already installed?

A followup: Unscrewed the cage and installed the derailleur without unlinking the chain. The cage is actually slightly pre-tensioned to spread apart when the screw is removed. Granted, it is easier to perform the initial alignment and adjustment of the derailleur without the chain, but it is also doable with the chain in place.


texts: What is the maximum weight that "normal" racing wheels can withstand?

texts:
I was recently in a bike-shop where the proprietor told me that the "normal" racing wheels of the more advanced bikes are normally only rated to carry 85kg. For example, he mentioned the Bianchi Maddux RX 5.1 as being unsuitable for a 95+kg person… you could ride on them, but within six months you would be unhappy.

I have never heard this before, and while it is obvious that the wheels will have a designed weight limit, I find 85kg really light.

I am over 6'4", so getting to 85kg renders me as a stick insect, and is unlikely to happen… So I would like to know whether I really need to splash out the extra to get custom made 36 spoke wheels.

So the direct question, for a normal 24 spoke wheel, what is the designed carry load for this wheel?

Edit: I ended up getting myself a pair of Mavic Ksyrium SR wheels. The general reviews seem to have them as being fairly strong...

Edit 2: Having ridden these wheels for a few thousand kms, I can say that they really are strong. I just had a front-on accident where the bike frame had the top pipe literally snapped , and the front wheel is only slightly off true, and with a relatively small dent... still enough to write the wheel off, but I was extraordinarily impressed!


texts:
I'm planning on commuting by bicycle to work in hot Montreal, though this question is probably relevant to anyone who bikes to work in a city with temperatures above 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit). I have to wear business casual to formal clothes (no jacket, usually).

How do I not sweat?

I'm particularly looking for

Helmet features that prevent sweating
Tips on rhythm, speed, pace, etc. that prevent sweating
Bags that will make me sweat less (I'm leaning toward nice, office-friendly panniers at the moment but I'm open to other suggestions)

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Drivetrain changed - new cranks further from bottom bracket

texts:
On the weekend I did an overdue drivetrain change. Everything went fine and runs rather smoothly, but I had to adjust the front derailleur a lot. It seems like the new cranks are about 5 mm further away from the axle than the old ones.

I changed from Shimano FC TY301 to Shimano FC-M361.

Is the described discrepancy a likely case, or did I simply not push the cranks far enough onto the axle?


texts: Do faired recumbents need more gear range?

texts:
I am researching into faired recumbents, bicycles or trikes, such as the Velomobile Quest or the Sunrider.  I'm interested in cycling long distances as a daily commute and for touring, but have no interest in racing or mountain-biking.  My current, upright bicycle (Koga Miyata) has a Rohloff gear and on my trips, I use both the smallest and the largest gear regularly.  According to Rohloff, typical derailleurs do not have a higher gear range than the Rohloff Speedhub (which has 526%), although Wikipedia reports gear ranges up to 700% for derailleurs.

Faired recumbents can be really heavy (45 kg for the Sunrider) and really fast (2% downhill, 100W, 63.8 km/h, but also 30% faster than racers when flat).  Really fast means one wants to have a very high gear, but really heavy means one also wants a really small gear to make it up steep slopes.  Considering that I'm already using the full 526% range on my current upright bicycle, I wonder; do heavy, faired recumbents need more gear range than upright bicycles?  I love my Rohloff, but should one consider getting a higher gear range on a faired recumbent?


texts:
This is an old 70’s huffy.. with 20" wheel rims and 1.75 tires.

I have some 24 inch rims to install, but the pegs are bigger in diameter, so they don’t fit in the fork's dropouts.

Are the old type rims available with the small pegs and would they fit on the bike it I find them?  There seems to be space enough to not rub?


texts: Not able to shift to largest Chain Ring - Lever not clicking, when cable is connected to FD

texts:
After installing Shimano TZ 30 Front Derailleur, I am not able to shift from middle ring to big ring. I can successfully shift Shifter from 1 to 2 and even from 2 to 1. But not from 2 to 3.

If I disconnect the cable then Shifter clicks properly from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd.

My Guess is that the tension is too high in the cable.

Question is related to a previous unansewered question Can't push lever to shift into big ring, lever will not move all the way. But with me the Shifter clicks when I disconnect the cable.


texts: Brake levers for Dia Compe centre pull brakes

texts: I'm looking at replacing the brake levers on an older road bike and was wondering if the cable pull ratio for the old Dia Compe center pull brakes pictured below is compatible with new road brake lever like Tiagra or Cane Creek SCR-5. Also do these brake levers fit the old thinner drop bars seen on older bikes? I will eventually be replacing the brakes as well but was hoping I don't have to replace everything at once.


texts:
Is there a way to estimate contact patch size given tire size plus tire volume and rider weight?

Specifically, I've tried to build a unicycle that maximizes contact patch for riding on soft snow. I have a 26"x3.7" tire with a 65mm rim that I have at 12psi, how can I calculate the resulting contact patch?

For extra credit, I'd like to calculate the contact patch size required to ride across newly fallen snow for a particular rider weight.

This question was previously asked as a comment on my previous question, but I feel it needs its own question...


texts:
I just bought a used bike for cheap. The crank/pedals feel loose and wiggle a bit from side. I notice there's a hole straight through the crank where I feel like some part is missing, perhaps some sort of bolt? (See pictures.)

Can someone help me diagnose the problem and tell me how to remove the play in the cranks, any potential replacement parts etc.? The crank model name is: FSA Gossamer 52-42-30 Mega, and the bike is Merida Speeder T3. size: 55,5cm.


texts:
I was thinking about restoring an old bike I bought years ago, but I don't know what kind it is, to the best I could see, here are the numbers that was on the bottom: MOTSX (the 0 is a maybe) then 45 402 these were slanted beside the MOSTX, then these below were under them.
Mod 702 (almost sure it was a 7) then the numbers under Mod 12  12      86 (and spaced like that).
I know it's a 26" boys, but I have never seem 2 small bars for top on a boys bike, plus they are not welded on frame under seat, but sit in special cups like a U that are welded on. I just wanted to make sure it was worth restoring. It looks to me like it's from the 50s or 60s. It has Schwinn on hand grips, but anyone could have switched those. Its in great shape, and won't take a lot to fix. Here a picture Thanks Tom Barnes


texts:
Upgraded from 3x9 to 1x12 and encountered the problem with cassette touching spokes.

Cassette is Sunrace MZ90 which is advertised as compatible with Shimano Hyperglide freehub bodies.
Hub is Shimano XT M756.

Cassette-spoke interference is barely noticeable it touches spokes ever so slightly only when bike is tilted particular way. I assume the freehub body has a little bit of play / float which is normal under other circumstances. The interference is absolutely minimal. Anyway, I am trying to solve this problem.

Obvious thing to do is to stick a spacer between the freehub and the cassette. I have tried 1mm spacer and it immediately removed the interference. However with 1mm spacer I do not have enough room for a lock ring. I can screw the lock ring on but it is holding on too little thread (1 - 1.5 full turns only). I was naive and thought this will do but ruined a lock ring after a few rides. It was original aluminium lock ring from Sunrace.

Any ideas? Did anyone have similar issue with upgrading to 12 speed on standard hyperglide hub?

I see posts all over the interwebz about people successfully using MZ90 with Shimano HG hubs and so far I have not seen anyone reporting the same issue. I wonder, did I do something wrong?

==========================================

Update:
Found a longer lock ring (from another Sunrace cassette) and assembled the whole thing in order: 1mm spacer, cassette, new lock ring. Managed to torque lock ring with no problem, there was enough thread. Will ride in that setup and see what comes out of it.

Big thanks go to @Nathan Knutson who's answer ended up being my solution and also to @Fred the Magic Wonder Dog for detailed explanation. I can only mark one answer as "accepted" ))


texts: How do on-road mountain bike speeds translate to road bike speeds?

texts:
When cycling on roads on my mountain bike, I generally get around 10-12 miles per hour on a flat surface.

What sort of speeds can I expect to get on a road bike?


texts: How often should hydraulic disk brakes need bleeding?

texts:
The brake handles for my disk brakes became very loose four months after I bought the bike. The bike shop bled the brakes and put new oil in them, which sorted it.

They're feeling a bit loose again (6 months later), but not as bad as last time. I use my bike most days cycling for commuting (6 miles) with longer rides of around 30 miles once or twice a week.

How often would you expect to have to bleed your disk brakes and if you had to do it more often would that suggest there was something wrong.


texts:
I have just purchased a new floor bike pump.While checking the tyres on my road bike
the gauge reads for the rear tyre 0.95 bar , 13.5 psi.the reccommended pressure is 130 psi,
maths not being my strong point! Am I just reading it wrong and not moving the decimal point so the actual pressure of the tyre is 9.5 bar and 135 psi.Sorry if this makes me seem a bit thick but I am new to cycling and want to get it right, better safe than sorry and all that.
Thanks.


texts:
I have a mountain bike - can the front wheel can have 1/4" bearings?

I know that the standard ones are 3/16" but I think mine came with 1/4"

The reason I am concerned is because I changed my front bearings with 1/4" because I thought that this was the appropriate size, and now I can not tighten the cone adequately because it is either to loose or to tight.


texts: How can bum / testicle / inner thigh pain from a saddle be prevented?

texts:
I occasionally commute a 50miles round trip and by the end of it, things are usually not feeling very good down below.

I've tried a couple of different saddles, but they both gave me problems. One chaffed my inner thigh, and the other one seemed to not do my privates any good!

I'm wondering what tips have you got for getting comfy?


texts: I recently got what most people would consider a cheap and toy road bike as a gift. It came with very primitive RD and cassette (shimano SIS? I think). I enjoy upgrading my stuff, my question is, would upgrading to a RD such as shimano tourney and another slightly more expensive shimano cassette yield better shifting performance and durability? After adjusting my RD it shifts fairly ok, however I feel that it is very cheap and flimsy.


texts: Maintenance as my Derailleur are squeaking due to the everyday use and carelessness shown while changing gears while the cycle is static

texts: What extra steps should I take to extend the life of the Derailleur gears on my Btwin Rockrider 340 besides oiling them ?


texts: When do I need more than one bike? How many bike is enough? How many bikes is too many?

texts:
I see questions where people want a bike to commute, road ride, and take on trails.
Not one bike will do it all.
When do I need more than one bike.
How many bikes is enough?


texts: Are there any 'anti-car' bicycle companies or shops?

texts:
In the UK it would be a brave company that took the 'anti-car' stance when it comes to selling bicycles. Furthermore, most cycle shops, distributors and others connected with the trade are personally quite pro-car (the mechanic fixing bikes to pay for his car which he needs to get to his job fixing bikes is the classic, the accountant of one distributor driving a Porsche takes the biscuit). Then there are the customers, generally most of them are pro-car (even if necessary evil) and you cannot alienate them, can you?

Are there any companies in the bike business - large or small - that are quite open with harsh opinions about the motorcar? Or have there been, only for the business model to fail? Is deference to motoring a reality that cannot be escaped?


texts: Recently I have bought a used 2012 Cube CLS LTD PRO hybrid bike in a good condition . The only thing was the rear cassette a little wobbling. I asked a mechanic about this and he told that almost every bike has this problem . After riding about 300 km I noticed that the cassette is wobbling more than it had been. Today I took the rear wheel off and saw that the cassette had a tiny backlash on the wheel . Can I fix the wobble simply by tightening the cassette , or should I buy a new one ?


texts:
This is a genuine request for ideas on how to be effective in not following the "Velominati" rules. How to keep cyclists of all persuasions together and be accepting of others, from leadership to newbies.

The alternative:

https://humancyclist.wordpress.com/2014/05/03/the-rules-rewritten-cycling/

Basically

we ride, we do what we want

I ride, I do what I want

and look how I want

How can we keep bunch riders together, have regular rides, and not slip into this elitist Velominati (it's not even a word)?

I am after tips, DO's and DONT's on how to keep a smile and not feed into the egos in the bunch. That's pretty much it.


texts: How to commute to work on your bike and dress up

texts:
I have a question regarding commuting to work on a bike. I recently moved to a new location because of a new job. The drive to work is roughly 15-20 minutes depending on the traffic (no freeway or highways). About a month ago I got a new bike the Giant Revolt 3. The location is a bit away from the city so I've noticed a lot more people ride bikes here.

My question is, how do you commute to work on a bike? My bike ride to work is about 7 miles, half of it is probably on the side of the road, and the other half is on a bike trail that takes me all the way to the office. Like most people, I have to wear a dress shirt and pants with business casual shoes. Don't people get sweaty? Wouldn't your clothes get wrinkled if you put them in a backpack to change later? There is a guy that always take bike rides for lunch and when he comes back he's drenched in sweat. How do you avoid these problems?

The reason I want to start commuting is because About 5-6 years ago I lost a bit of weight and I've been having chest pain problems which went away after I lost the weight (and I'm only 23), now they're coming back because I'm sitting in front of a computer most of the time.

(feel free to change/add tags if necessary, thanks).


texts: Mountain bike tires going bald after few weeks

texts:
A few weeks ago I bought a decent mountain bike. It's not a fat tire bike but it had pretty wide and grippy tires. I rode almost 200 miles over the past few weeks on asphalt but tires are going bald. I don't go mountain biking with it, I only use it on the bike trail which is asphalt. There is not much left now.

I am wondering what did I do wrong? is it normal? If I change the tired how long will they last?

Thank you.


texts: How can I find an adult-sized passenger trailer?

texts: Are bicyle passenger trailers limited to child sizes? I have looked for larger sizes but most stores only offer trailers sized for children. It would be an inline trailer sized for a small to medium size female, 160 pounds (72kg) or less.


texts: Why do full suspension bikes seem to be on average £1000 more expensive than hardtails?

texts: I was just looking at the new On One Codeine full suss mountain bike and 45650B hardtail (£2599 vs £899) respectively. However, what is the great difference apart from the shock? A fox rear shock goes for about £300 max. What causes the giant price difference?


texts: Long stem influence on cyclocross handling

texts:
I want to introduce myself to the cyclocross world, I'm looking for my first bicycle. I found a great used bike with a frame at size 54 (54 seat tube x 54,5 top tube), which would be slightly small for me(1.86 m tall).
On my road bike I use a frame in size 56 (54 seat tube x 56,5 top tube) with a 130mm stem, it has the perfect fit.

In my research I saw that cyclocross bikes need to be 1cm to 2cm shorter in full reach, which would allow me to continue using a 130mm stem, but would using such a long stem in a smaller frame affect the handling of cyclocross specificities(bunny hops, short and steep climbs/descends, 180º turns)?


texts: Restoring a BMX i got maybe in '96-'97. I bought it off a friend and its a chromoly frame and has the serial number stamp on the front head tube on the frame (0950921035). It looks "close" to an '85 GT Performer. but has some small differences. I want to restore it. How can I find this info?? THX!


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My crank set removal tool is too small to screw into the arm. You can see the black space in-between the tool and the crank.

Where can I buy the proper sized tool? Seems like all crank set removal tools come in the same size with regards to the threaded component that screws into the base of the arm.


texts: How to significantly lower HR[avg] while improving performance output

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On my Saturday's ascent race I was riding 181bpm HRAVG and saved some power for the last km where my HR peaked at 190 (which is my highest ever recorded HR at my 37 years or age). I felt rather normal at the top, no fatigue or extreme oxygen deficiency. Just normal very deep breathing with high frequency for about 20 seconds and I was fine. the way I usually breathe on the doing it 100% races.

This is the data from my Garmin of this ascent race.

  I should point out that my calculated HRMAX is about 182bpm although in reality it's clearly 190 (as the upper data shows). I suspect it's even higher, but anyway. I was obviously pedalling at 95-100% HR for about 50 minutes. That's surprising to me. This to me may be a good indicator that my HRMAX is closer to 200bpm rather than 190 which would mean I was peddaling at 90% HRMAX most of the time. Can anyone confirm this reasoning?

Anyway.

As I've heard some of the others were riding well below 170 bpm HRAVG but had much better time than me. I suppose this is due to larger heart volume, larger lungs therefore much better oxygen efficiency. Since my heart rate increases quite rapidly I suspect my heart volume is rather small(ish) so it has to speed up faster to deliver the needed O2.

I wonder how can I improve my performance? What kind of training will lower my heart rate while keeping the same performance level. I suppose lowering my HR by 10 bpms would give me enough room to improve my performance by more than 10%.


texts: How do you evaluate a chamois (padding in shorts) before buying?

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Stores only allow you try out shorts with an additional layer of underwear because of the hygiene issues. While this is great for public health, it seems to make it impossible to evaluate whether a pair of shorts is comfortable before buying. While it may be possible to return merchandise at some retailers, it would be nice to be able to compare different shorts before buying. The only usable advice I've heard is to always avoid gel padding.

What can I do to "kick the tires" on a pair of bike shorts to get a sense of whether or not the chamois will be comfortable? What should I look for either when looking at a chamois in person or when reading the marketing techno-babble on manufacturer websites (e.g., what the heck is a four-dimensional chamois)? Do more expensive shorts always have better padding, or are there certain styles of chamois that work for some people but not others?

Related questions: What should I look for in a good pair of cycling shorts?, Tights, Shorts, and Padding