texts: Why is part of this Derailleur loose? (Sun Tour Cyclone II)

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As you can see from this picture, part of my Derailleur  is loose.  Notice how the gear is not in flush with the cylinder.

It has a no other parts (that I can find!) than a threaded screw to go in there, but the screw bottoms out or at least seems to before it pulls the assembly in tight.

The screw itself is not of such diameter that it would hold the device in place, and while the geared part is secured by a metal lip on the side of the gear when you push it in place... the screw doesn't do the job.

This is my first time working Derailleur system.  I have no idea what part I'm missing.  I'd appreciate anybody who could tell me what it is I need..

Oh, and for the record.  This is the image of what the thing hooks onto.


texts: While looking for replacement pedals for my old French bike, I've come across products which are labelled as having thread size "M14/125". Does this denote the "traditional French" threading of 14*1.25mm?


texts: Modern long reach calipers on old bike, strong enough for safe braking from the hoods?

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Currently I am debating with what to replace the handle bars and brakes on an old bike. One option are drop bars. However, a concern is that braking from the hoods was unsafe in old bikes. However, I might be able to fit a recent Shimano front caliper and fitting levers (see below). However, the brake pads would be at the limit of the calipers reach at 57 mm.

Will modern Shimano levers and calipers provide enough two-finger braking power to safely ride from the hoods?

At the rear I shall keep the current Weinmann centre pulls. These work well enough for the back. Lever compatibility is another question, see the SE question on similar Dia Compe brakes.

Parts: Shimano BL-R400 levers and BR-R451 long reach calipers. Both are super SLR

Aluminium rims 622-19, 24 mm outside width

What reach is:

  The effective length of the arms of a caliper brake. This is measured from the centerline of the center bolt diagonally down to the middle of the brake shoe. Reach is commonly expressed as a range (allowing for the fact that the brake shoes are adjustable, typically over a 10-15 mm range.) For more information, see the article about caliper brakes.

From Sheldon Brown's knowledge base


texts:
Hello can someone help me identify my bike Frame?. It has this weird Logo and a Serial number of : "2948" . It has Suntour Dropouts likely NJS.

Thanks!


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I've recently bought a second hand carbon bicycle. The bottom bracket was making a creaking sound under pressure, so I took it to a shop and they put in new bearings.

But after 1 or 2 cycles it was back again. The shop sent it to a carbon frame specialist to see if it was cracked but it came back with no problems.

If I hold the bike with 1 hand and put pressure on the left pedal and crank it makes the same noise. The pedals came off my other bike and were not damaged.

Is it possible that the left crank arm itself could be cracked and causing it?

I want to get an idea if possible before I purchase a new crank arm as they are quite expensive. The only other worrying thing is that on Sheldon Browns site they say that if the left arm creaks under load that could be a sign the frame is about to fail.

Its an Sram red press fit bb30 by the way.


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First and foremost.. I'm slowly trying to replace my bottom bracket.. it makes a kind of knackered-bearings sound when I move the pedals round without the chain attached. This is because I've been bad and not washed my bike after cycling out in the rain, snow and gritted/salty roads. Whoops :(

I have a Trek 1.5 2011 with a compact chain ring.

I'm having great difficulty identifying what sort of bottom bracket it has. I believe the crank is an FSA Vero, 50/34 if that helps.

Unfortunately the manufacturer does not provide any information on the bottom bracket.

How can I identify for sure what I have, what I need to get, and what tools I'll need to replace it? I really don't want to start spending lots of money on the wrong tools and the wrong parts.

Any help would be massively appreciated!

Thanks!
John.


texts: Shimano Ultegra 6800 front derailleur tension problem

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I'm building up a 2015 Salsa Colossal Ti with a full Ultegra 6800 groupset (though with the RS685 hydraulic shifters).  I'm having an issue setting up the front derailleur.  I've followed all the various tutorials online, but whatever I do, I can't seem to get the cable tension right.  Too little tension and I can't get the derailleur to hit the high limit screw.  But when I add the necessary tension, then the derailleur won't hit the low limit screw.  I either have chain rub in the 50/11 or in the 34/32.

I even have the little plastic tool that tells you whether the converter should be on or off (off in my case).  Out of desperation, I've tried the other converter setting, but no luck.

The factory built bike from Salsa comes with the same Ultegra components (apart from the RS685 shifters), so I know I should be able to get this to work.  Am I making some rookie mistake?


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Ok. We're talking about when you'll be on the bike for 5+ hours. For example, a Century or 200K.

What is the best nutrition for a ride of this type?

So, I'll be on the bike for 5+ hours, with few or no stops. (pee stops and water refill and otherwise nothing else)

Should I go with the food provided along the way (a supported century), or junk food, or should I prepare my own deal?

FWIW - 30mi/50k ride does not count. That's a training ride in 2 hours or less.

  Update... Here's what it came down to. We used Hammer Nutrition Perpetuem. Basically, Perpetuem is a bunch of maltodextrin + some protein + some fats. We made up 8 hour water bottles which was basically like slurping down pancake batter. The Century ride had 7 stops along the way. Not counting water refill and pee stops; we only made a real stop for lunch at the 6th stop. The 8th stop was the end, but we continued on for another 30 miles to meet up with our ride back home.

I must add that the Perpetuem mixture started out well, but was extremely revolting by the end of the ride. However, it did the job. Since the May supported century, I've done several 80 - 100+ mile rides. Perpetuem works well as fuel, but I did add some tastier, solid foods to my jersey pocket for a change of pace.


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If I put my leg on the side of the wheel and rotate my handlebars in the direction of my leg, the bars get out of sync with the front wheel as seen in the image below.

This is a threadless headset.

Do y'all have any ideas?


texts: remove "wrench force" floor bike pump from the schrader valve

texts: It is embarrassing for me to say the number of tubes I have destroyed removing the chuck. Are there techniques or adapters I am missing? Or do I have a defective chuck?


texts: I am looking bikes like the Specialized Rock Hopper 29er equipped with lots of gears for versatility and the ability to stand up to trail riding in places where tree roots loom large.  What sort of bikes in this range stand out as good values that will be equal to this sort of duty?


texts: What is the cheapest way to send a bike from Australia to Germany?

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I would like to know of any cheap ways to get a bicycle from Australia to Germany. So far, I have looked at UPS, TNT and other larger logistics companies. They all seem to be 500 AUD and above for a single bike.

I am flying to Europe and could disassemble the bike and take the frame as oversized baggage. However then I am at my weight limit and I would still have to ship the 28" wheels. I thought of packing a box and ship the small parts with AusPost. However the wheels would be slightly to large for their largest box size.

Are there any cheaper ways to ship a bike from Australia to Germany?


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I'm going on a holiday to Southern France for road cycling within the Provence region and I'm wondering if I shell out on a bike box and take my own bike or just hire a road bike out there. Does anyone go on holiday and rent?

If you have been and had an unpleasant experience with the rental could you say what happened?


texts: I currently own Schwinn Millsaps Road Bike 14 speeds cyclocross. I ride my bike mostly on pavement. I want to replace the current 700 x 33c bike tires with Diamondback Interval Road 700X32 Tire Folding Bead 700 cm X -700 x 32c bike tires which have much less road resistance.   Is it ok to do so? Or any idea about any faster bike tires?   Thanks.


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Because road bikes are usually ridden on smooth surfaces, the pedals scraping against the asphalt/gravel/cobblesones/tree roots/sand/mud/dead branches seem to protect the frame and drivetrain against damage. However, the handlebars, instead of projecting metal butts to the inhospitable environment, offer the gentle bar tape of the drops to absorb all the kinetic energy.

At 10EUR/pair, this turns out to be a rather expensive consumable.

One solution I can imagine is homemade bar tape. Some kind of fabric perhaps?

Another would be some protection for the exposed parts of the handlebars, possibly including the very expensive STI levers.

How can crashing with a road bike be made more economical?


texts:
Any full source code sample projects about Raspberry Pi (or another) using it in bicycles ?

Maybe interesting for create a dashboard in bike for manage lighting ?

Examples:

live web bicycle (gps logging and web dashboard)
RaspberryPi.Net (not relevant)


texts: Installing shimano mt 200 hydraulic brakes to internally routed frame?

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I have a bike with an internally routed rear brake. I bought Shimano mt200 hydraulic brakes to replace the low end mechanicals that came on the bike. My problem is that the brakes came pre-bled. Now I have them just ziptied to the frame.
My question is, what's the best way to install the brakes? Is there a way to keep the fluid in the lines? Or should I completely empty the lines, internally route, install new olive and barb and then refill with fluid?


texts: What should I look for in a cycling jersey?

texts: Time has come to refresh the wardrobe a little, and the old woollen cycling jerseys need some young blood to compete against.  What should I be looking for in a modern cycling top?  Is lycra used anymore?  Does the cut of the jersey (other than being tight) have any effect?


texts: Dahon handle post hinge loosens too quickly

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I noticed that the handle post hinge on my Dahon Speed D7 now requires attention much more often than it used before. Unlike main frame hinge which remains tight for long after adjustment, this one now requires tightening at least once week, otherwise handle post becomes shaky.

Red arrow on the image below shows the 10mm nut I have to tighten to move that metal "foot" above a bit closer to the edge to the to secure the handle post when bike is unfolded.

(don't know if I managed to explain the process clearly enough, but Dahon bike owners should get the idea, I believe)

This is an old bike, but until last 4 or 5 months I only had to tighten that nut once a month or even less often. Now it's much worse and getting worse with time.

I have marked one of nut's sides to determine if the metal "foot" started to wear out quickly or the nut is somehow loosened moving down the screw. Turned out it is, something forces the nut to rotate at 60 deg or so every week, so I'm not actually tightening it but returning it where it belongs.

To be honest I don't understand the mechanics of this process (what makes it to unscrew) and wonder if this is something I can fix or I'll need a new handle post soon.

Thanks!


texts: My friend's bike needs a new chain. Looking at the chain, it looks like the pins have a slot for a flat head screwdriver? Is this just cosmetic or does this type of chain require unscrewing the pins? If so could it be replaced with a regular modern chain (of appropriate type [10-speed road])? My question is referring specifically to the pins of this chain which are visible in the attached photos. You can't see it in the picture, but the chain is HKK brand and it was on the bike when he bought it (used)


texts: Have I incorrectly fed chain into the rear mech hanger

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So I've had to change my chain because my indicator says it's worn. It did also seem to stretch quite a lot more then the new chain.

I think I may have fed it into the rear mech hanger incorrectly since it now skips every time I pedal instead of occasionally.
+

On my rear mech hanger there is clearly a metal tab going across the width of the mech. Does the chain have to go underneath it or over it.

If it's under, it seems impossible unless I take the bottom jockey wheel out. but I don't want to dismantle and make matters worse.

I can see why this can be confusing. The picture above I omitted the chain on purpose so it was clear what I was referring to

I had it routed like this

Is it correct now?

How about my front chain rings. They don't look right to me but am not a mechanic.

Chain link image.


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Which version / year is this 303 Firecrest hub?
The hub has this number: 11sp z3001 13 0863 and the wheel is tubular


texts: How to get housing seated into shifter barrel adjuster

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I just picked my bike up after getting some work done. Shifting was a little off so I tried to adjust the barrel adjuster on the tiagra SL-4700 shifter and it looks like the housing has come loose :|

When I move the shifter to the lowest position the housing looks ok, but as I shift up the whole housing moves out.

When I tried to get it back in before and shift up / down it pushed the cable end out of the back of the shifter.

It looks like everything else is firm: the housing around the derailleur and the bottom bracket seem solid.

I haven't had this problem before. How can I get the cable back into position properly?

Thanks in advance!


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Currently my bike has cable actuated disc brakes, which I will upgrade to Ultegra 8070 callipers and RT-800 Ice Tech rotors.  I use the bike for road, some gravel and bike packing.
The current rotors are 160mm front and rear.  The rear rotor is a pain when I remove my rear wheel: due to the rear derailleur I need to move the wheel slightly forward to remove it and I end up scratching my frame with the rotor (the non-drive chain stay, even when I am careful). After 2 years of doing this, the frame has lost quiet a bit of paint...
Because of this I am thinking to put a 140mm rotor in the rear, rather than replace it with another 160mm rotor.  But I am nervous about this for bike packing use.  I weigh about 80KG and worst case my gear would be about 10KG if I would ride with a pannier.
Obviously I don't want to get in a tricky situation by overheating my brakes, but I am also fed up with the scratching and want to apply some clear coat on the exposed aluminium.
Q: Should I be fine with 140mm rotors on a (medium mountainous) bike packing trip given my weight?


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We bought this bike from a boy scout camp in Baltimore MD called Broadcreek about 3 years ago. They were donated to the camp to be used by camp counselors.  We have contacted the camp but o one has any idea to their brand.  It was red but we painted it for my daughter.  We know the following, it has a rear disk brake, it is a 3 speed that shifts on the handle.  We were told it has "internal gears".  It is relatively new because it has a built in light on the front and back and they are LEDs'  The lights don't have a switch and we put in new batteries and the front flashed and then did not work.  She gets all kinds of questions about it ("is that electric?", "where did you get that thing?") and she would love to have an answer and get the lights working.  thank you in advance for your help.

A friend told me it may be from a bike share.


texts: How do I secure a new bike outside my apartment?

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Alright -- this question isn't so much about locking up a bicycle.

What are effective, practical ways to securely keep a bike, especially if you can't take it inside?

Some points or ideas that would be worth commenting on:

3rd flight stairwell railing vs. underground parking garage bike rack
Insurance
Making the bike look ugly (saran wrap + duct tape)
Component locks
Registration
Other ways to deter a thief, or reclaim lost property or the value of it


texts:
In cycling friendly cities, how do near-sighted cyclists who need glasses manage to bike to work or school in the rain?

When I say cycling friendly cities, I'm referring to cities such as Utrecht, Amsterdam, and Copenhagen which have plenty of bike lanes for people of all ages and abilities. Plenty of cyclists in Amsterdam cycle in the rain. Even in Vancouver, bike traffic can greatly decrease.

When glasses get wet, it can be very hard to see which makes it dangerous to cycle. It can also fog. Unlike windshields of cars, glasses almost never have wipers and defoggers unless they're novelty products or custom modifications.

Depending on the severity of the myopia, not wearing glasses can make it too hard to see which is also dangerous. I had pupil dilator eye drops and remembered that it was hard to see the white lane markings.

Is it possible that in cycling friendly cities:

Myopia rates are low
Contact lenses are used
Laser eye surgeries are used
Fairings are used
Having poor vision isn't that dangerous given the high quality cycling infrastructure
Glasses tend to have more advanced coatings so they're more rain friendly


texts: How to find a model number that replaced an old Shimano part

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Is there some listing of Shimano component model numbers that can help me find a currently-manufactured part that is equivalent to an old model number that is no longer being manufactured?

In particular, I'm looking to find a currently-manufactured replacement for a Deore LX V-brake, model number BR-M570.

This brake pivots around an internal sleeve built into the brake arm rather than pivoting directly on the cantilever brake post. I need something like this since my brake posts are corroded and will not be a good bearing surface.


texts:
Those asian bikes that have the curved top tube? What are the pros and cons of having that kind of frame design? Are they uncomfortable in really long rides? Do they flex or bounce too much? In comparison to a more traditional frame geometry.

They sell those really cheap here and they seem to be bomb proof.


texts: Chain skip options on vintage 'frankenbike'

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I have a late 80s Bianchi Volpe which came with Sakae Ringyo SX cranks and bb, SunTour barcon shifters and derailers, and SunTour chain.

The freewheel was aftermarket 7 speed and never rolled well so I replaced it with a Shimano 7 speed available at my LBS.

Everything was working well and the drive train was low noise and decently shifting despite the frankenbike nature and problems others have had, specifically that SunTour shifter throw and cage travel is not SIS compatible.

Recently I replaced the chain with a SRAM 9 speed based on reports that the narrower chain is even better on noise and can confirm, drivetrain is much quieter.

But now the chain skips under load. I know cog wear can be the source of this skip, but neither the chainwheels nor freewheel appear to have that high wear, and the original chain was only a few hundred miles past the Park Tool's ".75" indicator mark.

Attached is a picture of the filthy cranks (Chicago winter salt and sand included).

If I do need to replace the two largest chain wheels, must they be SR? Other brands seem more widely available, assuming BCD matches.

Edit: Picture for real this time.
Dirty freewheel:


texts:
After referencing How do I know which size and type of rim strip to buy?  I still couldn't use any of the answers to identify the correct width of rim tape to choose.

Velox tape comes in narrow (10mm), wide (17mm) or ATB (22mm) sizes.  What rim widths or styles are each of these sizes appropriate for or how can I determine which width is appropriate to use?

I'm not sure if the same rules apply for very large rims either. Should I just use the largest size, ATB tape (22mm), on very wide rims like velocity blunt 35 (35mm wide) and dually (45mm wide)?


texts: Irregular sounds on new 50mm wheels at speeds over 16mph

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I just bought new Chinese Carbon 50mm tubular wheels and I have a number of noises that are driving me crazy.  There is a whistling or irregular whooshing sound on every rotation.  Besides the normal white noise constant.  Is it just me or do other people have irregular sounds at speed over 16mph.  Wheels are true and round with new mavic tubulars.

Please let me know if anyone else has a rotation noise issue.   My aluminum campy wheels are dead quiet.  Thanks. Ken


texts: Should a chain be replaced even if it's not stretched?

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This question suggests using a tool or ruler to assess chain stretch to determine when to replace a chain. I have one such tool (Park Tool CC-3), and it tells me that my chain is not stretched even to the 0.75 level (is that %?).

My chain has at least 2,000 miles (~3,200 km) on it, so I am wondering if it should replace it just as a matter of practice (i.e., preventive care). I try to take care of the chain: wipe it down after rides, lubricate regularly (good advice here), etc.

So is it inconceivable that the chain is still in good shape after this many miles?

Is there any other reason to replace the chain other than elongation, assuming it otherwise appears to be okay?


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Learning to ride no-handed has been on my new year resolution list year after year after year and I still haven't done it. I'm 46 so I need to be careful about falling off. Do people have fool-proof techniques for learning to ride no-handed they can share?

Just to clarify after Daniel's comment below I have three bikes, a racer, a commuting bike, and a mountain bike. The mountain bike is twitchy but the others feel stable.


texts: Replacement Rear Axle Sizes on Vintage Bike

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I bought this 1990 Raleigh cheap on eBay. It had been sitting in a garage for decades and it was barely running when I picked it up. Surprisingly, given its age, most components were fine. But there was an awful clicking and grinding in the rear hub, so I took it apart and the axle and cones were coated in dirt and grime. (And being fairly new at this, I might have lost some ball bearings...)
More to the point: during a thorough clean and degrease, I found that the axle is heavily pitted and the threading has been badly chewed up. I can't even remove the drive-side cone – it keeps getting stuck on the last few threads and no amount of GT85 is shifting it.
The axle is beyond rescuing. But I've never bought an axle before and the measurements I've taken don't match up with what I've found online. It measures 162mm with a diameter of about 8.5mm.
Is it the case that I can't find this because it's some legacy axle size? Will a replacement axle of, say, 175mm x 9.5mm do the trick, like this one here? And will the 'default' nine 1/4" ball bearings be compatible with that?
Sorry for any stupid questions. I am fairly inexperienced with hubs.
UPDATE: It is now fixed. I removed the Shimano freewheel, and it turned out the metal shavings were from the dust cap itself. The ball bearings were apparently scraping against it. I've installed a new slightly longer axle, regreased and reassembled the hub with new ball bearings, adjusted the cones and it seems to be running very smoothly, no clicks or grinding.


texts: How do I calculate the diameter of a chainring from the number of teeth?

texts: Simply knowing the number of teeth on a chainring can we determine an accurate diameter?


texts:
An online store currently offers the Dahon Curve XL with a Shimano Nexus 8 IGH (The Dahon site shows the Nexus 7 model).

I'd like to replace it with an Alfine 11.

Does someone know if the OLD (Over Locknut Distance) is the same, and whether it could be an easy replacement?
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html

Thank you.


texts: How to check and ensure parallelism of front derailer and chainrings?

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Various instructions of front derailers with clamp want me to ensure that the derailer cage is parallel to the chainrings.
What is the preferred way to do this?
Since the derailer cage has quite a complex three dimensional shape I'm not entirely sure which lines to use as guides.
Should I use the inner side of the outer plate?
Do you look from above or from behind?
I'm looking for some best practices.


texts: Will bending the seat post two inches forward cause any unforeseen structural issues?

texts: My current bicycle is a 2013 Specialized Allez C2. I'm thinking of using a conduit bender to bend the angle of the seat post two inches forward. A conduit bender can bend one inch for every 3 inches of pipe. I have 10 inches of seat post above the frame of the bike. Now, although the seat post is the cheapest part of the bike, and it can easily be replaced, does anyone foresee a structural problem with that alteration?


texts:
I've been trying to fit a new freehub/freewheel (Bontrager) onto my (BTwin) wheel. The freehub is on, but for the life of me I can't figure out the order of nuts for the skewer bolt. I've put everything together once and noticed on the cassette side the bolt wasn't poking out far enough to clear the cassette's cogs.  I've numbered the parts to make it a little easier;

The wheel with the new Freewheel/freehub unit;


texts: Will a white painted bike get rusty when stored outside?

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My parents want me to store my bike outside. It's white and the tire rims are green. I really want to keep the color looking nice.
I know that keeping the bike outside will cause rusting on the chains and cables, so I put a tarp over it and sealed it tight.
I live in Seattle Washington where the weather is mostly rain but during the spring and summer it gets super hot.
Am I storing my bike correctly?


texts: How to dress for biking 3 miles to work in 40°F (3°C) and below so not to sweat to much but still keep warm

texts: I bike to work. It's about 3 miles. I live in Minnesota. It is getting cold. When it is like 40 and below I bundle up but I sweat  and then I am hot so I lose a layer and then freeze. Should I wear like a windbreaker or that under armor stuff? I get to work and my body can not tell if its freezing or sweating.


texts: 8 speed free wheel with single speed crankset

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I would like to change my bike setup. I have a 8 speed freewheel and a 3 chainrings crankset and I would like to add a single speed crankset in front (around 50 teeth) because I am not using my front derailleur anymore. Is it a good match? If so, what kind of chain do I need? Do I need a new bottom bracket?

Thank you


texts: Proper lateral rear hub position (with spacers)

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What is the proper position for a rear hub along the axle? So far my understanding is 'somewhere' slightly toward the non-drive side to leave room for the sprockets - and I understand that the rim is central because the drive side spokes pull the rim to the center between the lock nuts (ie. in dish). However, I've also read that the greater the in-balance between left and right spokes, the weaker the wheel will be. Therefore, the hub position is still important.

The other factor is how the position of the sprockets are affected, as they need to line up  properly with the chainset.

Is there a 'best practise' way of determining proper hub position and spacer configuration?

(I received a comment I believe saying that when you put it all together, the hub position is right if the wheel is in dish. I was under the impression that it was the other way around - you would adjust the dish of your wheel to your hub / spacing configuration.)

This is an exaggerated drawing to help illustrate what I mean. With varying configuration of spacers, you could position the hub anywhere on the axle. So where exactly does it go?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Why am I suffering from repeated flats same spot on wheel?

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I’m an avid rider- have ridden about 7,000 miles (11,200 km) in the past 4 years with 2 flats total. This year I’ve had the following

Flat in front wheel right across from the valve stem. I replaced the tube the first time, then took into the shop to have a new tire installed the second time a got a flat
A third flat in the same spot about 50 miles later. Took it back to the shop- he said the tire seemed pinched, was maybe a manufacturing defect. He retaped the wheel, gave me a brand new tire.
about 50 miles later, another flat in roughly the same spot. Took it back, we cannot figure out what’s going on - he can’t find anything. He put in a new tube but it suffered a pinch flat right in the store before I could even put it on the bike.

All the tires have been Continental Gatorskins.

So now, I’ve had 5 flats and cannot figure out what’s going on. Rims look fine - have had no falls, dents or dings.

Thanks for the suggestions. I am on tire #4, so its not the tire.

The flats have been both on the inside and outside, all about the same spot on the rim. I normally fill to ~ 100 psi - nothing has changed as far as my riding style, locations, fill pressure.

Could the rims have something to do with it?


texts: My brakes rotate around after I tighten them and other v-brake questions

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I recently purchased the long type of v-brake pads from Disco Brakes at Amazon. These are the ones with the tail.

My original brakes were the simple shorter kind, installed as small spacer/washer/brake post/washer/large spacer/washer/nut. The concave/convex parts fitting together. Interestingly enough the new brakes had the same order!

But I watched one brake repair video at YouTube, and they said there was another washer, a flat one, between the brake and the first spacer. Neither my old or my new brakes had that. Another video told me to use the big spacer first and loosen the cable to do so. Still another place said to use the washer on the post first, then the spacer that fits into it. So I am confused. What is the best order here?

As to the title of this post, it refers to a rear brake install. I installed it as listed above, because that was how the previous brakes were installed and the order of stuff on the new brakes. I tighten it down, and the brake is rotating around! The front ones stay in place, but even though it is tightly screwed to the brake post, that one rear brake is able to rotate around!

I will check the post in the morning, make sure it is not a flawed brake pad. But if it is not, I would like to know what to do with this very strange issue. I can switch the brake for one of the fronts and see how that works.


texts: Tektro HD-M290, change to a dropbar lever configuration. Which levers are compatible?

texts:
I want to change my cowboy flat handlebar to a drop bar. I have Tektro HD-M290 brakes and I'm searching for a compatible model of drop bar levers.
The bicycle has automatic speeds, so I just need brake levers.
I can't find any info on what is compatible with the hydraulic brakes and I would like not to change all the brake system.
Any Tektro drop levers compatible, or another brand maybe?


texts: Front derailleur doesn't seem to be moving

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I'm trying to troubleshoot my 24 speed hybrid bike.  As it was, the front shifter was having very little effect. I would change gears and not much would happen.

When I had a chance to look at it, I noticed that the derailleur seemed to be barely moving when I shifted from 3rd to 2nd, and not at all from 2nd to 1st. I tried a few troubleshooting steps to tighten, loosen the cable, but nothing seemed to help.

Now I have completely disconnected the shifter cable and the derailleur is sitting in between 3rd and 2nd gear.

I'm wondering if that's normal resting place, and if it's reasonable to see very little movement when shifting like that.


texts: How to estimate the speed of cyclist with given parameters

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How is the speed of the cyclist determined?
If I know the effort of pedaling in watts, the air drag area in meters squared, the rolling resistance details of the tires, and the mass of the cyclist and bike, and the grade of the hill, and the amount of headwind, how can I determine the speed of the cyclist?


texts: Adjustable Andros-like stem for 31.8 handlebar

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I have used the Tern Andros stem system and got one with it well.

Recently I acquired a Riese and Muller folding bike, which has an adjustment system which (for me) is less comfortable.  It puts the handlebar too close to me, so I would like it lower and further away.
I would therefore like to fit an Andros-like system to my Riese and Muller bike.
However, the Tern Andros system fits a 25.4mm handlebar, whereas the Riese and Muller system fits 31.8mm (oversize) bars.
(The Riese and Muller handlebar fixing system cannot be swapped out and fits an oversize tube, so I can't just buy the Andros system and swap handlebars. - thanks for the suggestion)
My question is:

Is there something like the Andros adjustment system pictured, but for 31.8mm handlebars?
Or perhaps, is there a handlebar design that takes a standard oversize tube fitting and which brings the control surfaces down and/or forward (away from me) by a few centimetres?


texts: Fixie vs Road Bike - the right fixie bike for bunch rides

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At our local bunch rides, we're seeing more and more guys out on fixies and they are going at a phenomenal pace. We have a local segment called the "Chicken Run" (and it's flat) and this one guy in an orange fixie went over 55km/h!

We've spent thousands on our own bikes (carbon, alloy, etc) to have a guy on a simple, light weight fixie / single speed bike beat us like that!?

So my question is - what fixie set up have you got that gives you the "edge in the bunch"? Any specifications to aim for?

At this rate, I am going to have to sell all my bikes for THE ONE fixie.

UPDATE

Yes I know the "engine" (ie: legs) is what counts, but I am after specific gear ratios that could (note I said could) allow you, with reasonable fitness (I am 173cm and in my mid 40s and consider myself fit to very fit) to be able to clock over 50k/hr on the above short 500m segment (my personal record is 43secs and I want to aim for under 40secs).

UPDATE 2

Incidentally, the KOM for that segment has been flagged as it was done by slip-streaming a motorised vehicle.

UPDATE 3

The guy on the orange fixie is Alan Dudderidge who competed in the World Masters last year in Auckland. He is rated 3rd in the world over three events which makes him a top level performer. And it makes my question somewhat useless. :( But still it does show the true engine in any cycling is YOU.


texts: Suntour xctV2 appaeared to be locked in place and have no movement at all

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I'm new to suspension on bike and if I put all my weight down on the suspension it doesn't go down?

It's a used Specialized Hardrock. Only paid £230 for it. All other parts brand new, literally everything. But there isn't any movement in the suspension at all. I can turn the lock one about half a turn then it starts to get hard to push it.

Also it may have been left outside so could be stuck?


texts: Rear wheel is loose and wobbles at even the tightest setting

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I recently had my rear wheel and hub replaced because the older one was bent. When I came back home I found that the guy who fixed it left it loose, so much so that I could pick up the wheel and shake it about in its place. Also, it may seem that my rear cassette is a bit loose but the wheel was the only thing i could shake by hand

I don't want to take the bike back to him, how can I fix this myself?


texts:
I have recently bought a Specialized women's road bike and for the last couple of weeks was borrowing my boyfriend's hand pump with no real issues.

Last night I finally purchased my own (Topeak RaceRocket HP) but each time I try to inflate the tyre (just a top up of air, not from flat) I can either hear air hissing out (I believe the pump isn't screwed on enough then) but even a quarter of a turn too far means the pump won't work as the air pressure seems to be too much and this would suggest I've screwed it on too tight. Just can't seem to get a happy medium.

It could be resolved with a floor pump but as I've just dropped £30 on this, I want to be sure before I spend another load of cash just to eliminate possibility.

Any suggestions? Should I return the pump or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks :) x


texts:
I bought this last year as a just a frame and forks. I built it up to ride but have only done about 100 miles. All I know about it is the frame and forks are steel  I used what stem I had laying around at the time so I know it makes it look a bit ugly. I fitted a Campagnolo Veloce group set and new set of Miche wheels.

I'm looking at getting the proper stem for it as the one I had does not look right obviously. I have spent many hours looking at what the exact model is but to no avail. Could someone help me please?

I can list more if needed, there is no serial no on the bottom , only the words pinnarello


texts: Can l add more gears by replacting the cassette on my mountain bike?

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I have a Giant Yukon with 8 speed. I want to know if l can change it to 10 or even 11 speed?
Is it possible to change the cassette on the rear wheel?


texts: What kind of overshoes can I use with a large touring SPD cycling shoe such as the Giro Rumble VR?

texts:
I got myself a Giro Rumble VR size EU 46/UK 11/US 12 and it has been a good shoe.
However, since they are very breathable, my feet are getting too cold at around 5 deg C, and I tried to get a regular road shoe cover for them, such as the dhb Extreme Weather Neoprene Overshoe.
But as can be seen from the photos, the Giro is basically as large as regular sneakers, and it was impossible to make the L-sized covers fit it, and I don't think XL would have been large enough either.
Is there any other cover I could get that would work better? Or do I have to just buy warmer/more standard sized MTB shoes?
Related: Waterproof overshoes on Platform Pedals with pins
Edit
I'm not in the mood for DIY (doing enough of that already), so I just got myself a standard sized dhb Dorica MTB Shoe and that worked with the cover. I got the non-extreme one though. This was an improvement, but it is still a bit cold when nearing zero. I might get a toe warmer as well at some point. The Giro will be reserved for 10 degrees +. One advantage of the Dorica is that it is easier to clean due to leather-like cover, especially when you can jus wash the cover separately.


texts: Will a 3x10 or 3x9 front derailleur work on a 6/7 speed chain? Can't seem to find a good MTB front derailleur for 6/7 speed chain. Tourneys won't do it for me


texts:
I have been using my bike for about 10 years for daily commuting and occasional traveling. It is a "trekking cycle" with a flat handle bars. I use it mostly for road riding, i.e. on streets and paved ways.

At the moment, it has original Shimano Deore LX shifters which are totally worn out. I am emotionally highly attached to frame/handlebar, etc. so I think upgrading is the way to go for me. This time it will be a major overhaul, i.e. I would like to exchange everything related to shifting / gears, and also rim/spokes, bottom bracket, hub.

I am now wondering which components to choose. I want to assemble things myself, so I am 100% familiar with the setup. I have been told that maybe an SRAM x7 group might be good, as it should be easier to work with with its 1:1 ratio.

Are there limits to the brakes/brake levers that I can choose? Must they "fit" the shift levers?
Are there problems I do not see? I.e. when switching from a shimano to a SRAM shift group?

PS: Hope this is all understandable, English bicycle tech vocab is not one of my strengths (yet).


texts: Brake cable shaking at the end of the brake caliper

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I recently noticed on my bike that the brake cable housing is shaking at the point where it joins the brake caliper. This is pretty irritating since the cable housing moves whenever I use the brake.

Here are some pictures

Notice that the metal ring on the cable has moved between the three pictures.

I usually hire a professional to fix these problems but have decided to do it on my own from now. I could not find anything from some google searches to solve this.

Any suggestions?


texts: How many miles should I ride each day to prepare for a 66 mile ride in 6 days time?

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I have been riding my bike for years and I am a very experienced rider. I am also in great shape.

I am a 15 year old girl. I have one week to prepare to do a 66 mile bike ride with a mountain bike frame and road bike tires (I don't know if that's considered a mutated bike or not).

Please let me know! Thank you.


texts: I love riding my bike and am looking at my first challenge! I've seen a sportive in October from Cyclopark, I've not been there and not sure of the roads the route is on, looks hilly!! Has anyone seen info or know the roads?  All help gratefully accepted for a newbie!!


texts: 26 inch wheels and fork on a 27.5+ frame

texts: I have a 26 inch bike(Specialized Rockhopper 2007) with decent wheels and fork. I want a more slacker head tube and better geometry than what i have now. I might be interested in one of Ragley Marley, Ragley Piglet Ragley Bluepig frames. My fork is not tapered. I know there are some conversion rings for that. I wanted to know if i can transfer all parts from the present bike to this new frame. I am little bit apprehensive about quick releases. I heard some frames take thicker quick release rods.


texts: BB30 to BSA frame conversion with internal cable routing?

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I'm interested in using BSA crank parts with a certain BB30 frame and I'm a little unclear about cable routing, I'm hoping somebody here can help clarify the confusion.

I'm considering purchasing a Dengfu FM286:

http://dengfubikes.com/Cyclo_Cross/112.html

The concern is that I'm going to use a BSA crank parts and they only have a BB30 frame available in my size (3 month wait for BSA version in the proper size).

I'm under the impression that frames with internal cable routing can allow the cables to pass the BB area in one of two ways, either through the BB opening, or underneath on the bottom of the frame in tubes, is this correct?

For the typical BB30 to BSA adapters, for example:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/fsa-bb30-threaded-adapter-b3119-/rp-prod129935?gs=1&gclid=CPqZv9_6oNICFc-1wAodPNUJfw&gclsrc=aw.ds

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-bb30-to-bsa-bottom-bracket-adaptor-kit

I'm under the impression that these could be used on a frame where the cables route in tubes underneath the frame, but could not be used in a frame where cables route through the BB opening, correct?

If so, here is the further confusion on my part.  I emailed Dengfu pertaining to the frame linked above, and received this response:

"I show you pictures of BSA adapter and BB30 frame bottom. You can install cables internally."

Here are the pics they sent:

So I'm left with some questions:

-For the adapter (1st pic), is this a BB30 to BSA adapter with pre-machined holes?  It appears to be but I'm not sure

-For the frame (2nd pic), does that appear to be a BB30 frame?  I would suspect so since there don't appear to be BB threads but I'm not sure.

-Also for the frame, are those two tubes on the bottom of the frame (they appear to be gold colored in the pic, but that's probably just the lighting, I would suspect they are actually white) where the cables route through?  If so, does that mean any BB30 to BSA adapter could be pressed in and still allow the cable routing, or is it still necessary to utilize the BB hole in some way?

I will contact the company further about this, but I'm also interested in the expertise of anybody in this forum that can offer information about BB30 to BSA conversion for an internally routed cable frame, and also your impressions of the images above.  Please advise, thanks!


texts: How suitable is a Dahon folding bike for Indian road conditions?

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I'm in the market for Dahon folding bike. I have narrowed down on the Dahon SUV D6 since it suits my budget. I would be carrying it around in trains on weekends to tourist towns in South India and roam around in it. Indian roads are notorious for their poor riding conditions. My concern is will the D6 (that is designed primarily for urban commuting) be able to handle a bump or two and be a reliable machine that I need it be during my vagrant outbursts. Since I haven't seen a Dahon first-hand yet and since I'll mostly be placing the order for it online, I'm a bit anxious.

Dahon http://dahon.com/uploads/tx_dahonproducts/IMG_10256.png

Dahon D6 http://dahon.com/uploads/tx_dahonproducts/IMG_10204.png


texts: Mechanical Ultegra's R8000 right-mech cable failure

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On my Giant TCR Advanced SL I have mechanical ultegra R8000 groupset and every 7/8 thousands kilometers the cable constantly breaks(usually it should happens every 20 thousands kilometers). It happened five times in total, at the third time we changed the lever(the right one) but the cable is still failing. We also changed the cable housing length in order to prevent some bad bend in the cable, but is still failing.

Does anyone can help me with some advices? The cable breaks in the lever. I wonder if could be the rear mech or something else different from the lever, in fact the lever was defective and it was changed with a working one.


texts: What should I do about salt in V-brakes?

texts:
I've been riding a lot thins winter in spite of unusually snowy, icy, and slushy conditions. While I know how to lube and clean my chain and can deal with other accumulated filth, I'm having trouble with my V-brakes.

When I'm squeezing the brakes, they work fine. That's the most important thing, but the problem starts when I release the brakes and continue riding. The brake arms aren't pulling the brakes back off the rims.

The brake arms have springy metal rods that are supposed to pull the brakes back when they're not being applied to the rims. Those springy rods are working as usual but the brake arms are firmly stuck and don't move back and forth freely. The force of my hands through my cables is enough to force them but the springy rods is not. I removed the brake assemblies and they're really resistant to swinging and salt encrusted at the ring where the motion happens.

I don't know weather there are bearings inside or just metal sleeves rubbing against each other, but I can't reach inside the mechanism to lubricate anything. I tried scraping the salt out and scrubbing with a damp cloth and that improved things but still isn't really satisfactory.

I'd like advice about what to do or any information about the internals of V-brakes. If it's just metal sleeves, I'll immerse them in warm water and rinse them out. If it's bearings, I guess they're not user-serviceable. Or maybe there's some secret I'm not seeing.

Help me out.


texts:
I am a newbie on bikes and i want to buy one. I want to buy a bike that i can cover some small city road distances ~30km daily with comfort and to be able to go on some mountain trails when i got time on weekend so i can get some experience in dirt trails and if i like it to consider in the future buy a fs downhill bike. I think that cross country hardtail with lockout suspension is the type of bike i search! I want to give a budget about ~1000 - 1500 euro. I don't have any riding experience so it would help me a lot if someone has a xc ht that he also uses it for that kind of distances in city road, for some feedback! If Its too unconfortable i may consider to buy a cx!

Any suggestion would be useful.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Buying a new bike for under $1500 - best option for hard terrain on a budget

texts: I am upgrading my bike which is exciting but I can't spend too much. Do I sacrifice carbon for aluminum if that gives me the option to go full suspension. Do I go for a solid carbon hardtail that may sacrifice some of the trail comfort for the durability. How much of an advantage is the full suspension over hardtail if you can only buy one for $1500?


texts:
For the purpose of work commuting, what are the features that one should look for in a messenger bag?

Size of the bag?
Strap configuration?
Color/Design?

Not looking for specific product recommendations (Unless the product illustrates the concept) but instead want generalizations that can be used to select a bag.


texts:
I made some adjustments to the front derailer on my road bike as when I was in the big front gear and smallest low gear the chain was rubbing on the front derailer outer edge.

I followed guides on how to do this, have changed the position of my front derailer, adjusted the derailer screws and put everything back together. But I am unable to get the shifters for the front gears to have any affect on the derailer. The cable is reattached and as tight as I can get it, and I have tightened the barrel adjuster as much as I can yet I get no tension in the shifter at all. the cable itself feels tense and when I use my hand there is no issue with derailer movement.

What can I do to regain gear control?


texts: Rigid fork replacement for Rock Shox Bluto fat bike suspension fork?

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I'm considering the purchase of a fat bike with a Rock Shox Bluto Fork. This fork takes a 150x50mm Maxle Light and 150mm hub.

However, since winter is coming and I'll likely be riding in slop and sub-freezing temps which may affect shock performance and increase the amount of maintenance required, I would like to possibly run a rigid fork during the winter.

Are there any rigid forks (steel, aluminum, or carbon) on the market that will accept the 150mm hub standard or would I need to build a totally new front wheel?


texts: Can i stop my frame scratching my seatpost?

texts:
I have an On-One Scandal aluminium frame, into which i have put a carbon seatpost. I have been adjusting it to find the right height, and i have noticed that it is getting seriously scratched - see a terrible photo. The scratching isn't deep enough to weaken the seatpost, but it looks ugly.

I have tracked some of the scratching down to the sharp edge around the top of the seat tube, and around the clamp notch (or whatever you call that). I have filed those so that they are smoothly chamfered, and now they don't scratch the seatpost.

However, further down the seat tube, the top tube and seatstay trunk (or whatever you call that - on this frame, the seatstays don't join the seat tube directly, they join on to a short piece of fat tube which then joins the seat tube) join on. Where each joins, there is a small hole in the wall of the seat tube (i suppose these are to ventilate the insides of their respective tubes). These holes have sharp edges, and i believe it is these which are scratching the seatpost.

Has anyone else come across this problem?

The holes are too far down to be able to get a file at them. I've applied some carbon assembly paste around them, and that helps a little (it seems to act as a lubricant when not clamped).

How can i stop my seatpost getting scratched?


texts:
This doesn't appear to be a dupe of any of the stuck lock issues -- I've only been using the lock for 3 days and the key turns fine.  It's an Abus Ultra 410 which locks at both ends and only one end unlocks.  I suspect there's a spring or something failing to return the bolt to the unlocked position at the other end.  Unfortunately this is the bottom end of a D-lock that's locked round both chainstays and a rather solid post, so gravity is against me.

The shop where I bought it are trying to help, but I'm looking for ideas as well.  There's no room for a bottle jack (deliberately, and not that I have one), and I don't have a cordless angle grinder available. I do have the key (both of them in fact).


texts: What could cause the bicycle chain to break?

texts:
I'm on an old Muji 3-speed commuter bicycle which uses an internal Shimano gear hub, and I recently (3 months ago) got my bike chain changed by my LBS.

For about 2 weeks I felt the chain would "catch", the way it feels when you're trying to change gears on a bike with derailleurs, and last night on my way home, the chain broke. Is this because the chain didn't fit well?


texts: Shimano Hub automatically switches off while riding

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I have few Shimano dynamo Hubs and I had to face this issue on several: they seem to be on good working condition. I checked them on a truing stand with a light and they worked fine. Then when I start riding them, they light at low speed, then turned off automatically reaching few miles per hour. Finally, after few miles, they didn't even light at low speed.
Do you have any clue to help me fixing this issue ?


texts: What will be the easiest/cheapest way to get lower gearings on my "new to me" road bike?

texts:
I've recently become the proud new owner of a lovely late 90's steel road bike with some not so lovely "old school" gearing (53/39 chainrings and 11-25 8 speed cassette). As someone who both loves her knees and naturally keeps a relatively high cadence I am looking to change my bike have the option of lower gear inches. I know from my experience riding around on my touring bike that my ideal lowest gear inch option would be about 30 inches (using this to help calculate gear inches). I am including the different options I can think of with the relevant research I've already done below. I would love to hear what would be the easiest, cheapest way of achieving this and if there is some option I am overlooking.
Option 1. Get a cassette with larger cogs. The first issue I would worry about here is the rear derailleur which I believe is this one. The listed max cog size is 28t though I know Shimano recommendations tend to be a little conservative. Judging from the gear inch calculator I would probably need 32t or even 34t to get the desired minimum gear inches. If I needed to replace the rear derailleur would I be able to do that and still use the 8-speed Shimano brifters that are currently on the bike?
Option 2. Get smaller chainrings. The issue here is that the crankset on the bike has a 130 BCD so I think the 39t chainring is basically as small as is possible to fit on them (Sheldon's sheet suggests that the minimum for 130 BCD is 38t). So I'd need a new crankset and hope to find something that avoids other compatability issues (with e.g. the bottom bracket or the front brifters). Unfortunately, calculations suggest that even a 50/34 wouldn't quite give the desired minimum gear inches with the 11-25 cassette.
Option 3. Some combination of a larger cogs on the cassette and smaller chainrings. This option seems to require more work than either Option 1 or Option 2 and I'd guess it would be more expensive but I am not sure.
Option 4. Put a new groupset on and just make sure the new chainrings and cassette will provide the desired gearings. This one is definitely the most expensive and requires the most work but I am including it for completeness.
For reference, I plan on doing most/all the work at a local free "Open shop" run by a non-profit dedicated to teaching people how to take care of bikes but if anything is very technical/hard/requires special skills I may go to a LBS for that.


texts: Designing Bike Trailers – Especially the hitch and load

texts:
I'm taken with the idea of the Wide Path Camper, but not with the weight or the cost of getting one delivered to the US, so I was thinking it would be a fun project to try my hand at designing and building one.

I'm looking for information and/or experience on trailer design – especially the connection to the bike and considerations around the total weight of the trailer. I assume at some point it becomes important to put brakes on the trailer.


texts:
In Japan, how are bicycles supposed to turn right?

Apparently, new rules have been decided in 2015, and there is a specific way to turn to the right at a crossroad, depending whether there are traffic lights or not.


texts: Does a helmet-mounted light affect the safe functionality of the helmet?

texts:
I am currently testing a bunch of lights for my (slowly) upcoming head lights review. Several of the lights can be mounted to a helmet using a mounting strap, like this:

I'm wondering if having a light mounted on the helmet impacts its effectiveness in protecting from impacts. It seems that if the light hits the ground first, it might cause the rider's head to torque at a weird angle, or rotate the helmet causing the rider to hit their head when they might not otherwise.

Is there any research or data on this, or are there any anecdotal accounts of helmet lights affecting helmet safety?


texts: Buying new wheels for Evo Sport E5 cyclocross to fit slimmer tires

texts:
I've read some similar posts on this topic but would like to check that I understood correctly.  A replacement of my stock Tracer 700x33c tires on my Specialized Evo E5 Sport cyclocross is overdue and I'm unsure about my options.
My rims have 16.2mm internal 23mm external according to https://www.rockandroadbikes.com/products/axis-wheel-elite-disc. This means the tire I want to fit, the Continental Grand Prix 5000 TL (28 x 1.00, 25-622) will be ok. (See table in the top answer of What is the maximum or minimum tire width I can fit on my bicycle)
If I were to buy a second pair of wheels would be a second pair of the stock be a good choice?
Edit:
I edited my question after I realized that I miss read the rim to tire size coversion table in the question referenced in the comments.
Edit:
Turns out I read the table correct the first time and then changed my question for the worse.


texts:
What are the typical symptoms of incorrectly adjusted B-screw in the rear derailleur? How does it manifest itself when shifting? Obviously, if the cage pulley interferes with the cog, the problem is clear. But what happens when there's no interference, just the gap is smaller or larger than optimal?

For example, SRAM recommends 6mm gap between the upper pulley and the largest cog. How is it going to affect shifting performance if the gap is, say, 3mm? Or 8mm?


texts: Need to know the wrench size for 10.9 screw

texts: My pedal just unscrew. It has a hexagon-headed screw with '10.9' screw label. Anybody knows what size of wrench I need for this screw?


texts: When accompanying children on roads - ahead, beside or behind?

texts:
When accompanying children (in my case roughly in the 5 to 9 range) on a moderately busy (by rural standards) road on our commute to their school I'm sometimes ahead, sometimes beside (at least the smaller one) and sometimes behind.

What is best practice?

Bearing in mind:

ahead of them I can control their speed and demonstrate to them safe cycling
beside is good, but this only takes care of one child (I'm cycling with two)
behind them I can see what's going on

The third option is what I tend to favour most.


texts: Should I use lights in foggy conditions?

texts: Today it was foggy, visibility was only slightly reduced, I already wear a high-vis on my bike but I am wondering if it is still worth me using my lights or is that overkill?


texts: Can anyone give me some information on this Peugeot frame I bought this weekend?

texts: I've been looking through old Peugeot brochures and searched the numbers on the frame but I cant find any pictures of any Peugeot bikes that look like this one. The chrome section with the flags of France bordering it the major differences. Peugeot bikes that I've seen usually have a checkered flag pattern where the French flag is here. In the Chrome section there is a long black and white arrow with another French flag in it. The guy I bought it from told me it was from the late 1970s. On the dropouts there is the number 85448 and on the bottom bracket shell is the number 57. From what I have read it's basically meaningless with how inconsistent Peugeot were with their numbering.


texts: Commuting: How to carry office clothing so it doesn't get crushed?

texts:
I have the bike, I have the best route; but now I want to know, how do I transport my clothing in each day? I typically wear suit pants and a business shirt, but not a suit jacket.

Am I better off leaving my clothes at work, or is there a special bag that would let me carry in shirt/pants without them getting crushed?


texts: Does a chain ever need to be loosened by bending sideways with Shimano reinforced pins?

texts:
Today, I installed a new chain to my bike, because it was badly in need of lubricant (squeaking) but Shimano TL-CN41 showed it is worn so I decided to install a new chain instead of lubricating the old. Hanging the chains side by side, the old 116 link chain was 9mm longer than the new 116 link chain (0.6% wear). The new chain is a 8-speed Shimano HG71. It was shipped with a reinforced connecting pin.
I pushed the reinforced connecting pin in with a chain tool. After the pin was fully in, the pointed side being fully protruded from the other side, I expected the chain might need some sideways bending to make it slightly looser.
I was surprised to find that the chain needed no such sideways bending. The link pushed by the Shimano reinforced connecting pin was already loose enough, definitely not a stiff link.
Is this some kind of design feature of the Shimano reinforced connecting pin that always results in no stiff links? Or is it possible that sometimes the chain has a stiff link after installation, and the chain needs to be loosened by bending sideways? I remember that before the days of Shimano reinforced pins, the chain often (always?) needed sideways bending.
In the end, I snapped the protruding end away with a 4" adjustable wrench, and am planning to check whether it needs a new cassette too after it stops raining.


texts: I have just noticed this on the top of my saddle bar and where the seat post clamp is. Is it a crack probably caused by the saddle pressure?


texts: Can i put a rack for panniers on a Carbon road bike w/ Thru axle?

texts: I was looking at getting a new Trek Domane SL 5 for commuting, but i don't see any way to mount a rack on it? I need to carry a laptop bag and a change of cloths. Is there any way to do this on that bike?


texts: Will yellow glasses stop me being blinded?

texts:
Will yellow glasses stop me being blinded ?

In the winter I commute along a canal path, the lights from the other cyclists are blinding at times.

Will yellow glasses stop this, it's too dark for normal sunglasses?


texts: Are helmets with chin guards safer than those without?

texts:
I do trail riding with some technical elements, and I have decided to upgrade my normal helmet to some sort of a full-face helmet.

I have seen some sturdy-looking helmets, which resemble the motorcycle ones (example). However, their ventilation looks bad, so I don't want these. I am interested in the lighter variant, which looks like a normal helmet with a chin guard attached to it (example) - chin guard may or may not actually be removable.

So, if I get the latter type of helmet, do I get significantly better protection, comparing to non-full-face helmets?

Specifically, will it protect me from a direct face-plant?

Is there a significant risk of the chin guard snapping and hurting me?

Does it matter if the chin guard is made of metal or plastic?


texts: Estimating trainer 'effort above the flat' by heart rate + cadence

texts:
A question popped into my head after yesterday's trainer ride.

First, a long-winded preamble.

As I pointed out in this question, I usually set the trainer up so that a 5l cask of wine just moves the pedal from horizontal in 'top' (48:14).

In that configuration, my average HR will stay in the 130s at a cadence of 80 in 'top'.

If I ride on the road, my HR seldom gets above 130 except on hills or if I crank up the cadence to 100+ in top (on the flat): I am loath to ride at any decent speed on the road because I am usually surrounded by people of median IQ driving 1500kg+ steel boxes - and I don't trust any of them not to kill me (assuming they're not actually trying to).

Yesterday I didn't have a full cask anywhere (I've been off the grog for six weeks, on a bet), so I just cranked it up until I couldn't move the pedal using my hand when seated next to the trainer.

This provided 'ample' resistance, to say the least: 2 minutes in, my HR was in the 140s although my cadence was only in the low 70s - and not in top gear, either - the average speed for the workout was 22km/hr.

Doing 'sprints' (15sec bursts at a cadence of > 130 in top) was almost the end of me.

Half an hour later, my HRM said I'd exerted ~500kcal over 10.7km, with an average HR of 148 and a peak HR of 166. The kcal count is about right for workouts where I do more sprints, and at a significantly higher average speed (i.e., a distance travelled of ~17km, reflected by an average cadence of 80 in top: cadence maps directly to speed via gear ratio).

So if I expressed this as "what is X in 48:X, to get that distance at a cadence of 80", the answer is "a little over 22". In other words, riding on (roughly) the 4th-highest gear, my HR was 10% higher than it usually is riding at the same cadence in top.

That got me thinking: rather than work out the effort above my 'wine cask' resistance level, I ought to be able to work out the 'effort above flat' implied by the level of resistance I dial in, by

finding decent-sized bit of car-free flat (say, a 1km loop somewhere);
going around it at a series of stable cadences (in top) and HRs (say, cadences of 80 and 100; HRs of 120, 130, and 140) each for a few minutes.

For each cadence, I would then know my 'steady state' HR on the flat (it will stabilise after a few minutes); for each HR, I will know what speed/cadence on the flat is consistent with that HR.

So if my HR is, say 10% higher (on average across the workout) than it was on the flat 'benchmark' for the same cadence in the same gear, I would chalk that one up as being '10% above the flat'. (I'm not pretending that's a 10% incline, or even a 10 degree incline; just that it's objectively 10% 'harder').

I realise that over time it would be expected that performance would get better, so there would be a need to periodically re-assess the 'flat' performance.

So finally the question: has this sort of analysis already been done and put up on the web somewhere?

I've googled terms I think might yield results, but haven't found a sausage. It seems to me that performance-metrics boffins would probably have solved this already (assuming it's an issue that has benefit for performance monitoring, which I reckon it does) so my search terms are probably a bit pants.


texts: Why are steel bikes more expensive than aluminum?

texts: It's hard to find a chrome moly bike for less than $1000 these days.  Is it because it's actually less expensive to manufacture aluminum bikes these days or is the market for chrome moly bikes so small that economies of scale make aluminum bikes cheaper?


texts:
I need your help about gear ratio.
I am currently riding 3x9 drivetrain, Deore m592 rear (SGS-Shadow), Deore XT m770 front.
My gear ratio is:
11t-32t (rear) and
22t-34t-44t (front).
My local hills and trails consist of hard uphill and some small downhill tracks. The hard uphills are the reason why i want to make a change in my cassette ratio.
I am planning to upgrade to a bigger, 11t-40/42t cassette, but I'm confused if this is possible with a 3x system or not.
I've read that the max cog (rear) for some derailleurs (including my SGS Deore) is 36t, but a lot of people say that 11t-40/42 or even 46t is possible. Are these cassettes too large for a 3x9 drivetrain? Do I need to convert to a 2x in front as well?
Will a hanger extender + the b-link somehow make it possible to get the cassette size i want?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance :)


texts: Is graphite grease suitable for bicycle bearings?

texts:
The Wikipedia article doesn't explicitly list the applications of graphite grease. Would it be suitable for bicycle bearings and threads?

Furthermore, I went ahead and purchased a single package (the same price as the lithium grease). It says (translated):

  Water-resistant calcium anti-frictional grease. Contains 10% powdered graphite. Intended for lubricating sliding parts (like springs, chains, ropes), which are susceptible to quick wear, contamination etc. at temperatures from -20C to 65C."


texts:
Due to some issues with my dynamo I am also checking the possibility of installing batteries powered lights.
While checking in a shop, together with the usual LED stuff, I noticed a front light having the indication of "4 lux" on the package. See below info taken from manufacturer web site.

The AXA Scope is a standard LED battery headlight with a light output of 4 lux and 2 bright LED's, very suitable for children's or city bukes.
The integrated retro reflector makes sure you are better visible to oncoming traffic.
[...]
LIGHT BEAM: 15 meters ‘to see’ 1000 meters ‘to be seen’

Is that enough, poor or what? I usually cycle on roads with public illumination on, but sometimes I also ride across parks where the only light is that cast from stars and Moon.
ADDITIONAL INFO
Out of curiosity after the detailed answer received, I decided to try the LED above mentioned (the shop allows returning within 30 days) in real conditions. So I took it home and tried it early this morning in my dark garden from a standing position (I didn't want to go through the hassle of mounting it on the bike).

It casts a decently broad lobe of light, therefore I didn't have to scan around to figure out what I had ahead of me
indeed it enabled me to see until the backyard door, which is roughly 15 meters from where I stood.

Conclusions: it seems better than the LED torch I am using now as a workaround and comparable with the dynamo powered light I used to have, but I think I will opt for a new dynamo. It will at least saves my money on the long run: if I have to trust their claim on 50 hours autonomy I should swap batteries once a month.


texts:
I am a 6ft, 172 pound being. Just moved to boston and now that the weather is better, I am looking for a bike which I can use for my daily office commute (around 3ish mile one way). I am willing to spend around 350-500$. Rather than relying on some random bike store's recommendation, I would ask here.

Open to all recommendations, road/hybrid bikes, fixie/geared, etc. Am a casual biker, but am capable of assembling/servicing the bike if need be.

Road conditions: apart from the cracks and some rough roads of boston, should to good. No off-roading with this bike.

Goods: Will have a backpack, laptop and some minor stuff.

Purpose: Commuting and pleasure riding on weekends, nothing competitive.

Folding bike: Don't see any use of it.


texts:
I was wondering why for a relatively long time the most common fork set-up was the threaded + quill stem one.
Why?

To me, it makes sense to try to have one point of failure for the the steering system of a bike (handlebar and fork), but it does not seem appropriate that said point of failure is hidden, requiring the disassembling of parts of the bike to be checked for its conditions.
From the fork manufacturing point of view, threaded and threadless fork still share the design of the 2 tubes down and 1 tube coming up, with the possible failure at the connection between the two parts, so I see no reason for making the top part "shorter" and then having a stem reaching down into it to connect.

This question states that threaded stem are stronger, but the "test"[a] does not convince to me as being reliable.

I reserve myself to put here the answer, if I find something useful in the next weeks/months.

[a] holding the front wheel between your feet and checking if you can turn the handlebar without turning the fork ...


texts:
I got a spare inner tube with my bike, which is good.

I checked how it was packed and found it was sticking somewhat when I pulled it out of the box, which I can only imagine is bad.

Would it be an idea to put someething on the tube for storage, talcum powder maybe?


texts: How can you remove markings from a headset?

texts: I'm trying to remove logos and markings from a headset, but I think they're laser etched. Does anyone know if it's possible to remove them?


texts:
I bought a beginner bike with a 2x 8-speed Shimano setup a year ago. I am looking to upgrade, now that I am getting more in to cycling then expected. Since I live in a really flat area (when I go on 3-hours rides, I climb less then 100 meters during the entire ride), I was wondering if I could manage with a 1x drivetrain? I would prefer this for the simplicity of it: price, weight and the reason I have never used my small chain ring outside (I do on Zwift, but I might dedicate my current bike to the indoortrainer).

I notice that when I ride outside (on my 2x 8-sp setup), I only use about 3 or 4 gears, and about 90% of the time I ride in the same gear. I do shift on intersections or when I encounter a serious headwind or a small hill, but that is only for a few seconds..

Could I enjoy a bike that has a1x 11-sp setup? And if so, how do I choose what casette configuration that I want? I am a beginner so I don't know what I need. I honestly don't understand all the 'calculators' online for gears. I THINK I want to have a few (maybe 2) low-low gears for hills and headwinds, and then maybe another 2 really high ones for (small) downhills or tailwinds. The rest should be closer to the middle, around where I ride now.

Would it be ok to have big jumps in gears on both ends of my casette, and smaller jumps in the middle? Or isn't this possible or a smart thing to do? How would you advice I make a smart choice?

I don't have the means to buy a few casettes and experiment with them, funds are tight.

Thanks


texts: I'm looking for a downloadable database of professional (road) riders, containing age, height, weight, etc. The only thing I've found so far is http://www.sports-reference.com/olympics/sports/CYC/mens-road-race-individual.html which seems to have a good amount of information, but is not easily downloadable, as I would have to go to each rider page individually go obtain the data. Any other sources out there?


texts: How to lubricate noisy joint on Dahon foldable bike?

texts:
My Dahon foldable bike makes a huge noise whenever I fold the frame and unfold it. I tried spraying a lubricant into the joint. I do not know if the problem is continuing because the lubricant went around the joint and didn't enter it, or because I used the wrong lubricant.

Has anyone else had problems with the fold across the frame with their Dahon bikes? How did you lubricate this fold?


texts: Why front hub axle sticks/freezes when riding extreme downhill

texts:
My front hub axle has already frozen when riding extreme downhill.

Looking at the hub, it looks like the right hand cone has self-tightened. Can you explain why this happens, and how to fix it?


texts: Tips for dexterously handling bike lights with winter gloves

texts:
I've got some battery-powered LED lights which are mounted using the typical "click-in" bike mounts somewhat like the one pictured below:

Unfortunately, I've got the fine motor skill of an elephant. This in combination with wearing thick winter gloves, being tired during/after riding and everything being wet and slippery means that I drop bike lights a lot. Somehow, I think that I might not be the only person to have these struggles in winter, so what can I do to attach/detach/carry bike lights in winter without dropping them? — I can't leave them on because they will get stolen. The temperatures are often below -10°C, which means that taking my gloves off even for a few seconds is extremely painful and they go numb... and then my hands are even more useless than before.


texts:
I have seen a few GPS devices either in the backlight or unside the seat tube which you can track if you lose your bike (your bike gets stolen).

What do you think about this stuff. Is it worth the money and how easy is it to track your bike with this things.


texts: How to select gear on internally geared hub with broken shifter

texts:
I bought used bike with words "gear mechanism is not working and set to 6th gear only". Ok, no problem. Riding was a bit harder, but fine for quadriceps :)

Later I had a flat tire on rear/back wheel. I took the wheel away, fixed the tire and when I was putting the wheel back, and idea occured: "Why do I need to keep this non-funcional gear mechanism? Let's get rid of it!"

And now... yes. Riding is very, very easy. Like I'm on the 1st gear. And I can be fast enough. So guys, please, is there any way I can make it "harder" again without buying some expensive stuff?

Thank you for any suggestion!

2nd image: gear-mechnism found, but ...


texts:
I'm a new cyclist and I'm looking for a new bike primarily for recreation and also for fitness. I would like a mountain bike mainly because I like the style and the fat tires! However, I won't really be doing much if any trail riding. I did some research to try and determine the right size bike for me and based on my 5'9" height and my 29" inside leg I found that I needed an 18" or medium sized mountain bike. However, when I went to the store to check them out, it seemed like the 18" or medium bikes were quite small, and I felt like I wouldn't be comfortable on something like that.

So I was wondering if mountain Bikes, by design, are somewhat smaller than road or hybrid bikes due to the way they are ridden?  If I'm not intending to do any actual mountain biking with it, would I be OK buying a larger size? I'm assuming that when riding trails etc. most riders are standing in the pedals rather than sitting on the saddle, but I'm guessing I'll spend more time in the saddle when I'm riding, which makes me feel like a larger bike would be best for me.

Just looking for some guidance here so I don't make a bad decision. Thanks


texts: Replacing front gear cable without removing cable housing

texts: I have recently had problems with my front gear cable. I know for a fact it's not a problem with the cable housing. Is there a way I can replace my front gear cable without removing the housing and the Bar Tape? I'm on full Shimano Sora groupset.


texts: Chainring offset - chainline - of Alfine vs. Ultegra/Dura Ace

texts:
I have a bike with Alfine 11 and belt drive. I think I could use a 175mm crank, certainly a 172.5, rather than the 170 Alfine comes in (height 6'1" frame size 60cm) and going a little lighter and prettier with Ultegra or Dura Ace appeals to me.

All are two-piece chainsets compatible with the Hollowtech II bottom bracket. All have 130 BCD. Seems like a straight swap is possible. The only thing I can thing of that might go wrong is belt alignment - is the offset of the larger chainring mounts on the road sets going to be the same as the mounts on the Alfine?

I was able to find that the quoted chainline for the Alfine chainset is 42.7mm - I can't find that figure for the other options.

new information: Gates produce a bunch of shims and spacers - mentioned in the engineering manual but I haven't been able to find them for sale anywhere. It looks like with this kit an Ultegra chainset will work but it's an expensive experiment without knowing for sure. I'll have to email Gates to try and find the kit, then buy the chain set if the rings look like they will correct the chainline - which from all information must be as perfect as possible.


texts: Will a 2x with a clutch RD be just as effective as a 1x with a clutch and narrow-wide chainring on an mtb?

texts:
I am continuously dropping my chain on my enduro mtb rides (currently 2x). The rear derailleur that my bike is currently running is a deore non-clutch.

My chain will normally drop after riding rock gardens, jumps, and drop offs.

My friend  says that even if i get a clutch version of my current derailleur I will still drop my chain and that I should just convert to 1x. But a 1x conversion is more expensive and will lower my gear range. So I would like to know if a clutch 2x will have the same effect?

Note: My bike was new 2017 but has had hard use, the bike is a feul ex 5


texts:
On my way to work this morning, one of the spoke on my front-wheel broke. I removed it completely, leaving me with 15 spokes instead of 16.

Can I still ride my bike over a 20km distance. I noticed the question was asked before, but I wasn't sure if it was also applicable to a wheel with a lower amount of spoke.


texts: What are the different uses for the 110 vs 114 vs 116 link bike chains?

texts:
I used to just leave those to the bike shop guys .. but nowadays .. I would prefer learn these basic skills myself

Currently I was searching for a replacement chain for my bike .. was told that for my MTB .. just get a 114 chain .. but I am really curious about all the different lengths .. so would appreciate if someone can help shed some light on the different use cases for the different lengths


texts: Need replacement cones for Shimano front hub

texts: I am rebuilding a Shimano HB-M475 front hub, but having trouble finding the replacement cones. This one has the M9 axle, but all of the replacement cones I have found are for a M10 axles. I need to know where I can find these cones for a 9 mm axle.


texts: What needs to be changed if I put in a larger chainring?

texts: My current bicycle is a 2013 Specialized Allez C2. It has an 8 speed rear cassette. If I swap the current chainring (50/32) to a larger one (52/36 OR 54/39), other than the chain itself, what else would I need to change, if anything?


texts: Adjusting over locknut distance with spacers

texts:
I'm trying to adapt a 130mm over locknut distance (OLD) hub to a 135mm OLD frame.
Sheldon Brown suggests that I can just add in spacers between the cones and the locknuts.

Sheldon doesn't say, however, where I can find good spacers for this.  Can I just go to a bike shop and buy some 2.5mm spacers? Do 2.5mm spacers even exist? Or do I have to jury rig it with washers from the hardware store?


texts: Flashpoint FP80 / SRAM S80 - rear hub specifications?

texts:
I'm looking for the specs of a SRAM S80 rear wheel hub. I dearly wish to replace its 9/10-speed freehub body with one that can accomodate Shimano 11-cog casettes.

SRAM S80 was a 80mm-profile aero wheelset for TT/tri (formerly also named FlashPoint FP80, before SRAM acquired Zipp). Its rear hub bears no ID or name and given the wheels' age, I can find no trace of it on the internet, so if anyone here knows... I'm all ears. But the hub does look conventional enough that I'm hoping I could source a compatible 11-speed freehub body (spline) for replacement.

Alternatives (and why I don't like them):

Manual widening (shaving off the spline flange) - difficult even with the right tools, and more importantly, the derailleur might end up too close to the spokes. Risky idea.
Campy freehub + Campy 11-sp. casette - Campy 11-speed casettes fit 9/10-speed Campy splines (and the latter is available as a replacement part), but buying both is as expensive as buying a completely new hub and relacing the rim. Plus, shifting with a Shimano derailleur is said not be 100% accurate, despite the cross-compatibility.

Rationale: I'm buying a budget road bike, which I'd like to make a bit more TT-friendly (aero bars and wheels), and I already have the S80 rear wheel after a relative of mine. But I don't want to buy a 10-speed drivetrain just so I can use the wheel, so...


texts: What is your favorite/preferred road shoe?

texts:
I recently purchased Specialized Sport MTB Shoe for my Dual Shimano pedals.  Love the clipless pedals, but this specific shoe seems to rub/apply pressure to both my big toes after a long ride.

They fit, but I think the tip of the shoe is too tough, or made cheaply.  They only cost $90, so I thought I might need to invest in a lighter, softer, more expensive shoe.  I have been using them for about a month everyday to work/back, and weekend rides, figured they're broken-in enough.

Not really sure, and I know the community here will be able to help.  Which is your preferred, favorite?


texts: For a studded tire that is available in both 29" and 27.5" which will perform better in snow/ice all else being equal?

texts:
I"m looking to start winter riding. My soon-to-be bike, a 2018 Devinci Troy Carbon 27 GX 12S, is able to take both 29" and 27.5" tires.

I prefer 27.5" tires, but would I have more control and stability using 29" studded tires for winter/ice riding? (Assuming tires are the same basic model and width).

I realize that 27.5" studded tires are rare. I can only find 2, by Suomi and Schwalbe.

If 29" tires make for better winter tires, why?


texts: What are the strengths, weaknesses and/or recommendations for a BLB Mosquito Saddle?

texts:
I ask this here because I couldn't find too much information or reviews about BLB Mosquito saddles. If administrators find this question doesn't fit into this place, please feel free to remove/edit this question.

So I'm about to order a 'Tan' version of a BLB Mosquito saddle (from London to Bogota, that saddle will travel too much far I've traveled in my entire life). I fell in love with it because its style and color (it suits perfectly with my bike, a somewhat customized GIOS Torino Pro '86); since having a BLB handlebar, I feel BLB is doing a very nice work with their products. I have to say I felt somewhat tempted to get a Brooks saddle because of their reputation thing, but I didn't liked any of them (too much fancy for me, and they're very expensive) so I decided to get the BLB one (it happens to be inspired by Brooks saddles).

Along with it, I'm ordering a Velo Orange long setback seatpost. I guess I won't have any problems using that BLB Mosquito saddle with that seatpost, but just in case I ask here if someone have had any experience with that seatpost.

Getting to the point: since I commute about 2 hours/day (40 km/day, 200 km/week) and I'm riding with a old, cheap, wider and doesn't-even-have-foam-inside saddle, do you think it's a good choice going for the BLB one? Do you have any recommendations for its usage or keeping its leather in good look? Thanks in advance!


texts:
I bought this frame in a state off eBay a fair few years ago and have recently got it working again.

I would love to know what make or year it might be. There aren't that many his / her frames I've come across and hardly any with the same tube layout as this.

I only came across one serial number on the frame (top tube) but it was too pitted to make out and has been painted over since. The BB axles have Brampton stamped on them but that's about all I have to go on. Maybe some one knows more?


texts: What's the best way to fix up my used bike?

texts:
I bought a used bike on craigslist, for cheap, and while I wasn't expecting it to be great the brakes and changing gears don't work perfectly.

The front brakes are very tight and the back ones are pretty loose... I can stop and everything but just would rather have a better performing system.

The gears change but sometimes don't work that well and I have to move the shifters all around for it to "stick" in a gear. Is there some way to simplify the gear structure? I wouldn't mind a single or fixed gear transition (since I live in NYC) but still want the ability to coast and use my brakes (assuming I can fix those too)


texts: How to tighten the Hollowtech II (on R2000 Claris) cranks?

texts:
The owner's manual on my new bike (with the new Shimano Claris, not the old one with Octalink) asks me to do this:

  After the first 20 km tighten the crankset and also tighten the pedals in the crank arms. Check if crank bolts are properly tightened. Check whether left crank arm screws are tightened firmly when bottom bracket axle is integrated with right crank arm.

I found many tutorials on the web they are about assembling the cranks, replacing them and they all include removing the cranks. But if I understand the manual, it specifically instructs me not to do that and leave such operation to a specialist:

  Important warning! No check of crank arms fastening ... may result in ... Such damaged crank arms must be replaced with new crank arms. Please contact special bike service for crank arms replacement.


texts: Claris 2400 rear derailleur paint touch up

texts: I was planning to do a touch up paint for my 2400 claris rear derailleur. Does anybody have an idea on what palette of paint closely resembles this particular rear derailleur?


texts:
I'm a beginner in repairing bicycles. I have quite an old town bike. I'm trying to change the tires. I have trouble in taking out the back wheel. As you can see in the picture, there is a small piece of chain connected into the hub shell.

I've checked for a small clasp or small screws to remove it but it doesn't seem to have any. Does anyone know how to remove this? Or am I doing something wrong? Any help is appreciated.


texts:
I am planning on a new bicycle and one idea is a Fat bike with the corresponding Rohloff and a Gates carbon drive. I am using Rohloff's for more than 10 years and know what to expect. I am absolutely new to Gates carbon drive and I am unsure, whether these can be recommended on MTBs or for off-road usage. I've heard that dirt is a problem. However, the problem, according to corrsponding stories, is chiefly acoustics, i.e. sequaky noise. I've never heard that the drive would break or not perform as intended.

Do the pros of a carbon drive system still outweigh it's number of drawbacks, even when when the latter is increased due to off-road usage?


texts: Shimano Hollowtech left crank arm getting loose

texts:
After 2 years of good use, left crank arm on my FC M542 crank set has started to get loose quite often (cca 500 km). It is usually indicated first by few now an then click-clanks somewhere in the region around BB. When checked, the bolts are loose, and the safety plate loses it's "nose"

As far as I can see there are 2 visible problems:

The spline on the crank arm shows some wear, but they do not seem completely damaged.
One of the fixing bolts is not original Shimano one M6x19, but M6x20 from hardware store with filed head so that it can be inserted in crank arm. It is also missing washer.

I intend to buy original bolt with washer. Other than that, is there something I can do to delay changing the whole crank set?

Maybe using some threadlocker like loctite 242? Where would I apply it on the bolts or on the spline? If it is applied to the bolts, does that mean that I have to use more force while tightening them, or just use force as usual?

Anything else?


texts: Is pressure of presta valve hard to read by design?

texts:
I have dual system floor pump. When I use it with auto valve it is no brainer to use -- after attaching the pump I get the reading right away, I pump, with each stroke there is small spike in reading, but then pressure readings drops to around pressure in the tube. In other words oscillation is very small and it is easy to read pressure just after attachment or during pumping.

However with presta valve it is completely different story (I was wondering if it is my pump fault, but after some googling I see others face the same problem) -- after attaching the pump I have no reading (i.e. pressure is supposed to be zero), with each stroke there is huge spike in reading the pressure, and then the pressure reading drops to nearly zero again.

Two completely different worlds. I already read some tips about pumping, like slow, smooth, strokes so you could have time to read the peak pressure, but this does not suite me (I already blew one tube with presta valve due to misreading the pressure).

My question is this -- is this problem systematic, by design, or are there some pumps which can give the readings as nicely as for auto valve?


texts: Which foot to put forward when coasting or track-standing?

texts:
I am mostly concerned about track-stand here, because it requires much balance, so the question on "which foot to put forward" seems important enough.

This tutorial says "stand up with your strong foot on the forward pedal" (at time 0:46).

This tutorial says "the lead foot, which is the foot you're most comfortable putting in front..."

This strikes me very odd, because my right foot is stronger, but i feel much more comfortable with the left foot in front. When i am standing on my pedals, i mostly stand with my center of gravity behind the point where the cranks are attached. So it makes sense that my weight is mostly on the back foot, and it should be the stronger foot. However, other stuff i found in the Internet (example) invariably recommends putting your "strong", "good" or "dominant" foot in front.

What am i missing here?

Did i get used to a wrong technique, and should break my bad habits now?

Or is it not important enough, and i worry too much?


texts:
I bought a brand new Fuji Nevada and I've had a horrible experience.

I noticed skipping while pedaling and found a stuck chain link. No matter how much or hard I wiggle it, it won't loosen up.

Any advice before taking it back to the shop? Frankly I want to return the bike. I'm so annoyed! It cost me a lot of money too.


texts: SRAM Rival front derailleur throws chain to the outside, even after professional adjustment

texts:
TL;DR: if you have a SRAM Rival front derailleur I'd love to know if yours looks "funny" like mine does--it's described in bold.

I have a SRAM Rival groupset (from late 2011), including front derailleur/mech, crankset, and brifters.  It all works fine except the front derailleur, which is a nightmare.

The bike is just under two years old.  For the first six or eight months (but that included five months of winter), everything was fine.  But one day I shifted from the small to the big ring, and it threw the chain right off the outside.  It worked sort of OK much of the time for a few months, but maybe one shift out of ten, it would throw the chain (always to the outside).  It started to get worse, and I tried adjusting the cable tension and limit screws, all to no avail.  If I adjusted a bit farther down, it would never shift to the small ring.  Up a bit and it threw off.

I took it to a quite professional cycle shop, and for about $20 they adjusted it.  From what I could tell and what they told me, they reoriented the derailleur on the seat tube, moving its rear slightly outward (not sure about height adjustment).  It worked fine for a few rides.  Then it went back to the way it had been, throwing the chain off.

I kept trying to adjust it myself, but it would either not shift up, or it would throw the chain outside.  Or it would sometimes shift properly, but only if the rear was around gear 6 (of 10), and not otherwise.

Now I have read the SRAM manual, watched videos online, followed all the steps from initial installation (including completely removing the clamp, cleaning, and reinstalling).  I moved the derailleur down as far as I could without overlapping the big ring teeth.  I carefully adjusted everything.  And I'm right back where I started: either it won't shift up, or it throws straight off.

There are two things that look strange.  First is that the outer plate of the derailleur is not what I would call straight.  Rather, it seems to veer inward (toward the bike's centerline) at the back of the cage.  That is, the outer plate and inner plate do not appear to be really parallel--but I don't think it was ever any different.

The second weird thing is how the chain throws off the outside.  It's like the shift is mostly going OK, but only about one link of chain sits where it should, and then the tendency of the chain to go straight when viewed from the top causes it to just run at the same angle from the small ring to the big one and right onto the crank arm.  It's sort of hard to describe this, but when I watch closely while shifting, it's hard to see how it's ever going to work well.

For a number of reasons I wonder if the derailleur is actually broken.  But it looks fine, and the shop I took it to last time (which sadly is now across the world from me, or I'd go back) said it was OK.  And there was no crash or anything else to cause it in the first place.

I've been fixing my own bikes for two decades.  This one has me stuck (and I'm not looking forward to visiting another shop with it, partly because the shops where I live now mostly don't seem that great).  Do you think the derailleur is simply broken and needs replacement?  How would I even tell?

Finally, some people apparently use Shimano 6800/7800 front derailleurs with SRAM shifters.  Some of them claim it works much better.  Any thoughts on that?  Parts are expensive where I live, so I'm a little hesitant to go buy an Ultegra or Dura-Ace part unless I'm pretty sure it will work.


texts:
I have a 2009 Specialized Allez Sport C2.

When pedaling (actually only under load, not when just turning the crank while it's on a stand) the bottom bracket squeaks or chirps. I first thought it was birds chirping;  then I realized they were remarkably regular in their chirping.  Then I realized it was my bike. The sound has definitely gotten worse over time.

What should I be looking at in terms of fixing this?  Do I need to replace the bottom bracket?


texts: Safest way to slow down a bike quickly if both sets of brakes fail

texts:
This may sound like a crazy question, however today in the wet my rear brakes decided to stop working effectively. It has been pouring rain here which makes the problem more apparent.

I managed to get to work unscathed, but was wondering what is the best technique if I were to get in a situation where I had no brakes (front or back) and was heading downhill.

Try and zig-zag; throw the bike and just take the worst of it early on; immediately turn sideways in one direction or roll into the gutter.

What is the most effective, least damaging and most safe effective way of doing this?