texts:
I'm new here, and also pretty new to cycling as my main form of travel. Note that I'm from the UK, so we drive on the left. I always ride on the lane closest to the kerb. On one of my journeys I have to go over a dual carriageway, and I noticed that quite a lot of cars overtake me too close for my comfort (like if I deviated a bit to the right, they would hit me). I also noticed that it gets worse if I'm closer to the edge of the road. Because cars try to overtake me in the same lane, rather than waiting for the lane to the right of them to be empty so that they can overtake properly. If instead I am far enough into the lane that there isn't enough room for their car to overtake me on that lane, then these 'close overtakes' occur less frequently.

I don't want to be inconsiderate to drivers by hogging the road and preventing them from overtaking me, but I also don't want to jeopardise my safety by incentivising dangerous overtaking. Is there a guideline on this?


texts: I got a classic steel road bike, gazelle tour de France, and one of the fork blades was bent in the frame direction, some two centimetres, after a crash. I read here that this can be realigned, I'd like to know if this is something that can be done at most bike shops and what price should I expect to pay. Thanks.


texts: Can I under inflate bike tires to reach a 15 percent drop?

texts:
The recommended tire pressure is when the tire's height drops by 15% when it's loaded because it makes the ride comfortable without increasing the tire's rolling resistance too much. Less bumpy rides mean the tires may even roll faster. Unfortunately, the recommended pressure may exceed the tire's minimum rating. Should we still follow the chart to get a 15% drop? Would handling be poor?

I use the 700c x 38c Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard tire which is rated at 50 to 85 PSI. Even though I keep its pressure between 50 and 60 PSI, the ride is still bumpy on neighbourhood streets, the edges of potholes, and expansion joints.

My weight is 140 lbs which means the front wheel's load should be less than 40 kg including the weight of my bike. Based on the chart, I should inflate my front wheel to less than 40 PSI.

Chart from article in Bicycle Quarterly (pdf)


texts: How can I inflate a presta tyre with just one hand

texts:
I'm trying to inflate my bike with thin presta tyres; but the pump I'm using is universal, it fits loosely.  I need to keep one hand in the valve in order to inflate but on reaching 50 psi, I need both hands to push the pump thus I can't hold the valve in place.

On another note I've searched online and there doesn't seem to be any presta specifc pumps, all are universal, which implies they fit loosely.

What are your suggestions?

Update 2:  The pump works fine on the other tyre, stupidly straightforward.  I'm not sure why on this tyre doesn't work.  The tyre looks fine, and in fact was almost at full pressure when I tried to fill it; but lost all the air while trying.  I'll replace it and I'll let you guys the outcome.  Thanks all so far.

Update: I bought a £50 pump I still have the same issue, see pictures:


texts: Differences between wheelsets - 700c gravel bike and 29" mountain bike

texts:
I'd like to set up my Surly Ogre for commuting. It currently has 29" 29mm internal width rims, for bikepacking.

I'm thinking of getting a second wheelset for commuting, so it rides less like a tractor. I've been looking at 700c gravel bike wheels or 29" mountain bike wheels, with an internal width around 19mm...

What would be the differences/benefits of these options? They each seem suitable. It seems like I could get either with hub spacing to fit the bike (100m front, 135mm rear). Strength?

I'd probably get a tyre like the WTB Expanse (32mm).

Example of 700c

Thanks


texts: Is 13 years too old for an otherwise new-condition tire?

texts:
I was reading some product reviews for bike tires and came across a complaint from a customer who had received "new old stock" tires. Here's the relevant part of the review:

  Feb 07, 2020

  The two tires I received had the manufacture date stamp inside the
  tires of 2007 !!! THIRTEEN YEARS OLD RUBBER !!! ...  In reading these
  pages you have seen reviews stating premature blow-outs, and greatly
  diminished tire wear. Both are symptoms of OLD rubber. ... It would be
  a good bet that this supplier bought-out some distributors ‘old stock’
  for pennies-on-the-dollar. Let HIM eat his investment, not you. ...
  See the date stamp in the attached photo, both tires had the same
  stamp...

(source)

The review correctly states that other customers had complained about severe blowouts after relatively short miles, suggesting they too may have received tires too old to be reliable.

This seems plausible; but on the other hand I have some bikes with pretty old tires without problems. Of course riding conditions may also play a role.

In summary: is there a valid concern about otherwise new-condition tires that are 13 years old being unfit for use?

Note: I'm not asking for a judgement of this specific tire. It's just an example that prompted the question.


texts: Unable to push oil in when bleeding Shimano brakes

texts:
I am trying to bleed my Shimano BR-M355 rear brake. This is my first time so it is possible I am making a very obvious mistake.

The issue I am facing is that I am unable to push oil in through the bleed boss. I have tried putting quite a bit of pressure but I am unable to push it in.

Here are the steps that I followed:

Removed the reservoir screw, on the funnel, and screwed in a oil container.
Filled in a syringe with oil and attached it to the bleed boss through a hose.
Loosened the bleed screw, half turn.
Pushed in the syringe with oil in it, attached to the bleed boss.

I have tried loosening the bleed screw further, adjusted the reach adjustment screw so that the lever is as far forward as possible and loosened the free stroke adjustment screw, to no avail. What could be the reason for this issue?


texts: Riding my bike on empty pavement when the road is busy UK

texts:
I often find myself in the situation that I'm riding my bike on the road, holding up several cars whom I can tell are getting impatient (there are oncoming cars so its hard to overtake safely). A lot of the time the pavement is completely empty. Would I be wrong to then switch to the pavement in order to (1) allow the cars to pass (2) reduce the risk of impatient drivers carelessly overtaking me? Where does the law stand on this? Moreover if it is allowed, does the pavement have to be completely empty?

Edit: Clarification - I'm more asking what more experienced bike riders do in this situation, rather than the exact legislation. If you've had any encounters with the police with such a situation, then that would be even more helpful.


texts: Wondering if my Tiagra shifters are fixable?

texts: The name plate broke off (left side) during a crash would this be fixable? The lever is now pointing outwards but can still shift gears.


texts: Does anyone know what brand of Bicycle this is?

texts: I’ve been doing some research but can’t seem to find this logo anywhere.


texts: Consultation needed! To repair or throw out?

texts:
i found these two bikes by the dumpster- Dahon Boardwalk folding bikes. They are totally rusted by the salty air (it's a humid salty beach climate). The chain is rusted and when I push the pedal, the wheel does not move. The seat post is rusted. And the folding mechanisms are rusted.
I'd want them for a simple ride, 10mins into town and back- so might be worth it to fix. They don't have to be perfectly restored. What are the main things to evaluate before refurbishing a bike?
I'm willing to put down $150 on parts. I have basic tools and plenty of time.


texts: I have a bicycle frame that is not stamped and I can't figure out how to identify the brand of it

texts: Serial number EY121000136 it's a 20 inch bmx bicycle


texts:
I recently went on a ride which partly involved a light rain and after that I noticed that among other things there were a lot of mud colored spots on my bar tape. I presumed it was grit and mud stuck onto the tape (it looks almost painted on though, very little if any 3d shape to them), and tried to pry them out with a needed, but it felt like all i did was tear a bit of foam. Does anyone know what this is? Would this come off with some soap?

I cant be 100% sure it wasnt there before, but the bar tape was recently replaced by the prev owner.


texts:
I am looking at a bike which describes the gears as:

  3 speed internal geared hub, 42t front and 16t rear gearing.

What does the latter spec (42t/16t) describe?


texts: What size are Campagnolo Ultra Torque bottom bracket bearings?

texts:
I was unable to find the dimensions of Campagnolo bottom bracket bearings. My understanding is that bearings have standard sizes with names like "6200", "6201", etc. See this chart for a big list.

Knowing the size would allow me to buy compatible bearings from manufaturers other than Campagnolo, which might offer better performance for the money.

What size are Campagnolo Ultra Torque bearings?

Edit

I am interested in the ITA and BSA threaded variants. If anyone can source the full list then I'm sure others would find that helpful too.

ITA threaded
BSA threaded
BB30
BB86
PF30
BB RIGHT
BB386


texts: How to replace derailleur cable housing?

texts:
My derailleur cable housing (sheath) has exploded:

I bought a new sheath of the exact same length:

PROBLEM: Now I realize that unlike brake cables that are like []------, derailleur cables seem to be like []-------[].

QUESTION: How can I put the cable inside the housing? I don't have many tools, just screwdrivers, Allen keys and a few common others.


texts: 27.5 x 1.95 tyres what sizes can i change to

texts: what other size tyres can i fit to these wheels? As I can only find mtb tyres and want to put a road tyre on? something faster with less tread


texts: What kind of freewheel/cassette is this?

texts:
I bought some old bike from netherlands, I wanted to restore it.
Rear wheel is broken and I wanted to exchange it but there is this strange freewheel which I cannot identify, do you have any idea what it is?


texts: What cassete do I need to run with a compact crankset (50/36), to equal the same gearing as running a standard crankset (53/39) with a 11-28 cassete?

texts: Every new bike in my price range comes with a compact crankset, which I want for climbing, but I race and I need to keep the same top speed that I've had for sprinting and descending (I live in the mountains). So I'm just wondering what rear cassette I would need to use with my compact cranks to equal the same gearing as using a normal crankset (53/39) with a 11-28 cassete.


texts: How do I maintain my weight while cycling more?

texts:
I started cycling more to get fitter and lose a little bit of weight. I started taking a longer route to work and upped my daily ride from 6 miles to 16.

After 2 months of this and consuming less biscuits I've lost almost a stone and am now really happy with my weight. My main aims now are just to be healthier, to improve my indurance a little bit and mainly just to have fun. I really enjoy my longer ride and would like to keep doing it.

I thought I would find a new ideal weight for my new higher level of activity, but this hasn't happened yet. I am losing weight slower so should I wait for this to happen or should I eat a little bit more? And, if I do need to eat a bit more what sort of foods would be good?

Update: As some people have asked for it my BMI has gone from 23.7 to 21.9. So I've always been in the normal weight BMI category (18.5 – 24.9), but I was getting towards the top end of it.


texts:
I have purchased a handbuilt rear wheel that will be used with a disc brake and never with a rim brake (it has a 6 bolt hub). The rim is a mavic a719.

The rim is anodized black but the machined part (rim brake surfact) is silver. Ideally I'd like it to be black for aesthetic purposes and was thinking about giving it a light coat of spray paint.

Is there any reason that this is a bad idea? Is there any other way of easily making it black?

NB: I'm aware that there are non machined rims available. I'm aware that some my see it as ugly or poor etiquette to run a disc hub and machined rim. After a lot of research, I concluded that this was the rim I wanted.


texts: Sharing an 11 speed SRAM wheel with an 11 speed Campagnolo

texts:
I have two bikes, one with Campagnolo and one with SRAM red. I want to be able to swap wheels (Primary for Triathlons) but also on my trainer.
Why do I need to be aware of?


texts: How to pass another bicycle in a bike lane

texts:
I bike to and from work in New York City, and I have noticed that while I stay very far to the right in the bike lane (literally on the line that marks the right most boundary of the bike lane), maybe about 70% of the cyclists who pass me do so on the right, despite the fact that there is more room on my left than on my right.

I was wondering...

Am I wrong to try to stay to the right?
What's the correct way to pass another bicyclist in a bike lane?
What else can I do to make it easier for others to pass me? (I would say I am an average speed commuter, and I probably pass about as many people as pass me)

*Edit: many bike lanes in New York City are on the left side of the road, and sandwiched between the side walk and parked cars


texts: When I spin my pedals by hand they spin very fast and long, almost like a fidget spinner, making a sound too. I somewhere read that this means that the bearings are 'dry', and that pedal spin should be more 'buttery', like they shouldn't spin very long, and have more of a dampened, silence feel to it. Is that correct and do I need any special grease? I got a tube of "Grease with Teflon" from Decathlons BTWIN brand. Would that work?


texts: 8 speed cassette increased from 25 to 30

texts: I have an old road bike that has a 12/25 cassette. I want to change this to a 11/30 cassette. I have a medium derailleur. Will this work?


texts: Does the extra cage on SPD pedals help riding with normal shoes?

texts:
Some Shimano Pedal Dynamics (SPD) pedals come in two variants - without and with a cage - e.g. M520 and M530.

While it isn't the main purpose of the cage on M530 does it make cycling in normal shoes, esp with soft soles more comfortable?

UPDATE:
99% of kilometers I do on this bike is with cycling shoes on and that's why I don't want platform/spd shoes (I have these actually). Once in a while I use it with normal shoes or even flip flops.


texts: Externally routing cables on Trek Allant 7.4

texts:
How would I externally route the rear gear cabling on a Trek Allant 7.4?
It's had problems down shifting ever since I had the shifters replaced that can't seem to be repaired (Internal Cabling Problem?)
I'd like to convert it to an mid drive e-bike if I can get it to shift properly and afaik the motor I'm looking at can't be used along with cabling under the bottom bracket.
There's a cable entry point on the side of the down tube from the shifter, internal (no housing) cable lines under the bottom bracket, and an exit around the back of the chainstay.


texts: Is there a chain keeper or chain guide available for a single sprocket E bike type frame bike to stop chain from coming of the front single sprocket?


texts:
Having spent the whole summer taking a bike apart, painting it and now in the process of building it again, I was thinking about waxing it. I want the finish to last as long as possible, after all, I've spent sooo many hours on this project.

Would it help in anyway? Protecting the finish etc.
Or could it instead harm the bike?


texts: Preventing lamps being stolen / thieves' motivations

texts:
My bicycle's front lamp has been stolen AGAIN. I thus far have spent over 100 Eur on bicycle lamps that can be slid onto a mount on the bike, and more on rechargeable batteries for them. This needs to stop but I need a solution where I don't need to carry the lamps with me. For this, I tried to think like a thief, but it just doesn't compute. Why the hell would someone steal a bicycle lamp!? It doesn't make any sense to me.

I glue the lamps to the mount so they cannot be removed by people still steal them. Sometimes I can see that someone tried to steal my lights (for example when they point straight up into the sky when I come back; someone obviously tried to yank it off but failed), so it provides some improvement, but my lights still get stolen. What do thieves do with lamps where half the mount is still glued to the lamp because all they were able to do is yank it off so hard that the mount ripped apart?

This isn't just a rant. I need a solution and I think it'll help me to know what they want so I can stop providing them a way to get what they want.

I found this answer to a somewhat related question which only mentions reuse and vandalism. It should be obvious that you can't easily reuse a lamp if you had to yank it off so hard it breaks the mount. Now I had my bike vandalized on several occasions (things obviously no one profits from like spokes kicked in) but the only thing that has ever been stolen from my bike are lamps (the front lamp more often than the taillight). This is despite the fact that you could easily steal other things. The linked answer mentions seats. My seat can be removed in about a second without any tools because it's held in place by a quick release. It's definitely something specific about lights in my case.


texts:
I'm installing deore v brakes on a 1988 Bridgestone mb2.
The front brakes installed fine.
On the rear, the pin on the v brakes that is inserted into the frame to set spring tension does not align with the hole in the frame. It's misaligned by a mm or two.
This is my first v brake setup, could be missing something obvious.
I definitely have rear brakes. Also tried installing a front brake in the rear, with the same misalignment.
Not sure if this is an issue with standards that have changed over the years? Strange that the front pins insert perfectly.


texts: Bike washed with pressure washer. How to recover?

texts:
I lent my bike to a friend of mine who washed it with a pressure washer. I already replaced the bowden case, which prevented me from using the brakes due to the washed out lubrication. I lubricated the chain as well.

I haven't experienced any other problems yet, but I'm worried about damaging the bike if I ride it without further repairs.

Is it necessary to repair or lubricate something else?


texts:
I got a st 4700 tiagra shifter and fd r7000 front derailleur in double crankset. My problem is when i am in the big ring and try to trim down i pull the little lever on the shifter and hear a good click, feel the movememt in the cable but the front derailleur does not move? There is good amount of cable tension i checked. And also trim on the small ring works. Can this be a cable routing issue or is this normal?

UPDATE :I installed the tiagra fd-4700 derailleur and the trim works fine. Actually the 105 fd r7000 derailleur is not fully compatible with Tiagra shifters.


texts: Can I Upgrade shimono Ultegra 9 speed 12-27 cassette

texts: I have a 2009 Trek 7.7 FX with Ultegra 12-27T cassette, 50/39/30 Front triple. I want to upgrade the rear cassette to give better hill climbing gears. Can I fit an 11-34 Rear cassette and if so what else needs to change?


texts: Replacing FSA Mega Exo with Shimano RS500 crankset

texts: Just bought a Jamis Renegade Explore which is the Sora equipped gravel bike.  Only thing i can't stand is the fsa mega exo crank and square taper bottom bracket.  I happen to have s brand new hollowtech 2 shimano rs500 crankset lying around and would only need to grab an external bb for like 20 bucks.  Question is...will the rs500 crankset work with the 9 speed sora3000 groupset ??


texts: What is the name of this part/mount/adapter that mounts an old school center pull brake to the top of a rear bridge? This is a 1970s MAFAC RAID on a LeJeune Tandem. I'm trying to find an adapter to mount a modern Tektro R559 Long Reach instead, thanks.


texts: My question is simple.  Do I need to oil a chain on a single speed bike?


texts: How tolerant is the range of front derailleurs?

texts:
Say you have a front derailleur cited as having an 18T range, with a 42T main ring. According to the specification, the smallest inner ring can be 24T. But how strict is that? Is it possible to get away with 22T? In particular if the expected use of this ring is very rare: you climb that 25 feet of vertical rock face, and then shift back to one of the other rings.

Similarly for 28 versus 26, et cetera. For example, I have a bike here whose derailleur doesn't go lower than 28T according to spec, and that's the size of the inner ring. But when the chain is on that ring, there is a quite a bit of clearance left between the chain and the cage. I can push the chain down down so that it touches the midpoint of the chain-stay. Then it just about touches the bottom of the cage.


texts: Should I use a Trek Domane SL5 for touring?

texts:
I am planning for one week/ two weeks long bike touring, mostly on the road with a moderate amount of riding uphill (mainly in Japan).
My weight is around 60kg. All of my touring gear won't exceed 10 Kg of weight.
I am planning to buy a Trek Domane SL5 (because of its endurance characteristic).
I am prioritizing the following facts to consider for a bike for touring:

Comfort for a long ride.
Durability
Budget-friendly but still not outdated.
7~21 days touring

Is it okay to choose a Trek Domane SL5 2021 as a touring bike?


texts: I just got a new basic hardtail bike. I want to get better, and it’s not the best bike, so I want to upgrade it. I was thinking about changing the gear set up to 1 and 11 speed rather than 3 and 8 speed. I go out about mountain biking twice a week, and I really like it. My budget is £250. Any suggestions?


texts: Carbon vs aluminium commuter for 50km per day

texts:
Is it worth it to purchase a carbon bike for commuting daily 50km. I'm thinking I would be faster and also be able to train on weekends for my first iron man this year.
I don't have the funds to purchase two bikes and wondering whether it's better to have just one good bike?

Located in Vancouver Canada


texts: Is it possible to use an SRAM cassette PG 730 7-speed cassette with a Mavic FTS-X freehub? According to the spec, no spacer is required for an 11-speed cassette and for 9/10 speed version a spacer is required. I'm a bit confused since the manual is kind of vague.


texts: Apart from the size, is there any difference between chains for derailleurs or for single-speed / internally geared hubs?

texts: I might need to replace my bicycle chain (see this question). The store where I've bought components before (cyclecomponents.com) seems to be entirely marketed to derailleurs, and I have an internally geared hub. Can I buy one of their chains as long as the size is correct, or are there some fundamental differences between the two?


texts: I need grey touch-up paint for the headtube on a 2014 Whyte T-129s. How can I find out which colour exactly to buy?


texts: Brompton Rear Brake Caliper Assembly Schematic

texts:
What is the list and order of components that thread onto the Brompton's rear brake assembly from the brake caliper through to the Lower Stop Disc for an M6R?

At some point on a recent ride down through the Himalayas my Lower Stop Disc fell off, and I lost many other components that belong on the rear brake caliper bolt as well (ie: washers, nuts, concave washers fit to the frame, etc).

There’s no Brompton dealer in this country, so I need to buy the replacement parts online. But how do I know what I’m missing? There doesn’t appear to be any schematic that shows all the components that thread onto this rear brake bolt. If I had a list and image of these components, then I could figure out what I don’t have, order the parts, re-assemble the parts, and be on my way. But the only relevant schematic I could find for the LSD only shows the components of the LSD itself--not the components in context found on the brake caliper bolt on which it threads

https://trade.brompton.com/Uploads/QPart/QPart-Datasheets/ds-lsd.pdf

Can someone with an M6R please take some close-up photos of their rear brake that captures all the components that thread onto the rear brake caliper bolt that passes through the rear rack and ends with the Lower Stop Disc? Photos of it disassembled with the components lying exploded & in-order would be excellent too

Thank you


texts: Waterproof overshoes: am I using them right?

texts:
As part of my "in case it rains" gear, I have waterproof jacket, waterproof trousers and waterproof overshoes.
The first time I used them I had the "brilliant" idea to tuck the trousers into the overshoes, with the result of pouring all the rainwater directly into my shoes. What a miserable day it was.
Last time, remembering the previous experience, I have fastened the trousers Velcro straps around the overshoes making sure that the overshoes were under the trousers. At the end of the rainy day my socks, shoes and feet were nevertheless drenched in water.
Am I missing something in the way I should use overshoes, or is it simply unrealistic to have really waterproof overshoes?
I use cleats, leather mountain-bike shoes and when the above happened I rode about 6 hours, the first 4 under the rain, on mostly paved roads and some white roads.


texts:
I've just had my 3rd front wheel puncture in about 4 weeks (doing around 80 miles per week).  Since the first puncture, the tube and rim tape has been completely replaced, but these seem to have not solved the problem.

I'm riding a road bike which is about 8 years old (but has only probably seen a years worth of proper weekly usage) on a mostly road based route through London, with a 5ish mile stretch on a canal towpath.  Thanks!

Puncture was on the inner surface of the tube (ie facing the rim.)


texts:
Note: this question is about a QR chain tug, not a chain tug for a QR skewer. Just so we're clear.

My Google-fu must be weak after too much indulgence over the holidays, or maybe it just plain don't exist. I'm looking for a chain tug for horizontal rear fork ends to replace the threaded tug bolt that is currently built into the frame.

Why?
A. I like having the bolt/tug to help precisely tune the chain tension, rather than the "wheel walking" technique we all know about.
B. I'm considering running two sets of rubber this winter and anticipate doing a lot of swap-outs before my daily commute.
C. It adds precious seconds (lol) to my tire change routine and I can't find anything else I want to tweak on my current whip, so I'm micro-tuning now to feed the addiction.

Motivation (from one of my comments):

  The objective of this theoretical QR chain tug would be to allow you
  to "set" the proper tension using the wingnut, but then be able to
  completely release the entire mechanism to be able to derail the chain
  and then remove the wheel. When you reassemble everything, just
  tighten the QR lever and you should be back to the correct tension, so
  then you tighten your axle bolts and you're off to the races...

Anyone know of / invented / hacked such a device?

Feel free to slag me and say, "just shut up and ride".


texts: Mystery leak from brake caliper. What to do?

texts:
I had poor performance from my SRAM Apex hydraulic disk brakes. This weekend, I bled them, and it seemed to solve the problem. However, on my next ride, I decided to test the newly bled brakes with a particularly hard stop. When I did so, I saw a puff of smoke. I assumed that it was oil on the hot rotor, so I looked closer. Sure enough, when I pump the front brake hard, a little oil runs down the disc. Also, the lever is almost as soft as before I bled the brakes. At least the rear brake seems fine.

At this point, I'm not sure what to do. I know the disc needs to be cleaned and the pads need to be replaced, but I do not know how to fix the leak. I don't even know where the leak is coming from, because the bleed port and cable are dry on the outside.

A couple of questions:
First, where could it be leaking from? Could it be from around the pistons? If so, how would you fix it?
Second, could this be fixed under warranty? I assume it would be SRAM warranty, not Planet X, right? The bike is almost brand new. If so, how would I go about that? Do I take it to my LBS? The bike was bought online. Please help.

I miss the cheap and simple mechanical discs from my last bike.


texts: What are the differences between the Alfine 8 and the Nexus 8?

texts:
I'm shopping for a new bike and I have a choice between one with the Alfine 8 and the other with the Nexus 8.

They seem to be pretty similar, but from what I could gather from forums here and there, the Alfine has more praise than the Nexus.

What are the actual differences between the two?


texts: What should I look for in a cyclo cross bike

texts:
This will be my first cyclo cross bike and I am already using the same techniques with my mtb.
My question is what should I look for in it. Since the country I live in does not have any official brand manufacturing cyclo cross bikes, I have to look for the nearest replacement.
So what should I look for, like rigid frame, type of brakes gears, anything such

My use is based on high speed sprints and short length moderate offroad  use

A few more things carbon fibre frames are not easily available so I prefer other materials, I live in a rainy place(recently its been more rainy for past 2 years, likely to continue in future)


texts: Do you think there is still some innovation that can be done to cycle wheels? Like changing the cycle spokes pattern? Or is it already in an optimised state?


texts: I have several bikes. I noticed that 90% of times I go on road  so I got myself a road bike. But, can I use it for off road? Nothing extreme maybe some dirt roads or with small stones or poorly maintained roads. There is a really small amount of rains here so mud it is not a danger. The idea is that I can lend it to a friend to make some soft off road routes or use it myself and lend a more off road bike.


texts: Difference between Shimano SM-RT81 and SM-RT81-A rotors?

texts:
I am working on a retro/new bike project and I have bought the Shimano SM-RT81-A 160mm discs whit Shimano SLX-M7100 brake calipers.

I have seen that the brake pads on the front rotor are about 5mm too far out.

Now I am wondering if there is a difference between the SM-RT81 and the SM-RT81-A version?


texts:
I have a ten year old decathlon cheapo bike and I wanted to take out the axle out of the rear wheel to see if I could replace it with a quick release mechanism and also learn a bit about how it works (the bike is cheap and not important). I undid a few nuts until I could take out the large axle bolt but when I did, out fell a load of ball bearings from either side.

I don't think I'll be able to reassemble it and a lot of the parts are rusty and probably need replacing but I don't know what to replace them with and like I said, ideally it would be quick release.

As far as I can tell the assembly is a freewheel cassette. Then there was this large bolt going through the wheel with two nuts and another threaded item I cant identify either side. Inside there were the bearings each side with a washer like cover. But they seemed only to be held in place by the presence of the bolt.

Edit: The bike is a rockrider 5.0 from about 2010 or so.


texts:
I have an old 10-speed bike (presumably 80's vintage). I'm trying to remove the bottom bracket and cranks but have struck a problem.

The crank bolts have a plastic cap over the top of them and I'm not sure how to remove it. They look like they should unscrew based on what I could imagine it would look like before they were trashed by the previous owner. I tried to unscrew them gently but they didn't move and as you can see from the photo below they're very fragile.

On the other side the cap has been completely broken.

I can see a nut, but with the plastic cap extending into the cavity I can't get a socket in there. I need to remove the plastic somehow.

Anyone have any ideas how to remove the cap and it's remnants?


texts: Training for long distance rides (> 200km)

texts:
I want to be able to ride about 200-300km in about 1-2 months, but right now there's no weather where I live for cycling, so until probably April I have to train in a gym.

I'm 170cm and 72kg, since 3 weeks, I:

have a diet, eat max 2200kcal a day
do gym trainings 3x a week (12-10-8 reps for all body parts per session)
do spinning classes 2x a week (1,5h now, and increasing)

Is this enough? Should I change something?


texts: How do I fit this pair of chain tensioners on my single speed bike?

texts:
I have these chain tensioners:

How do I install them correctly on my single speed bike? Do they go on the inside or outside of the frame?

My dropouts look something like this:

Apologies if the answer is really obvious. Appreciate the help.


texts: What are "two-tone" tubular tires called?

texts: What are those old "two-tone" tubular tires actually called?-- You know, the ones with the "natural-rubber" color on the sidewalls?


texts: I've got a 20 year old Cannondale mountainbike (model # scratched off long ago). It's been used as a daily commuter for a few years and for a couple long trips. I've been told that the original chainring and cassette need to be replaced but I don't know anything about sizing and compatibility. How do I go about choosing replacement parts?


texts: Luggage rack - upper fastener broken. Can it be repaired?

texts:
Recently the upper fastener of my luggage rack broke. The part that broke is a small block with two holes, which connects the rod that is screwed to the frame with the rod of the luggage rack. See photo for details.

It's just this small part (two parts actually) that broke, so it feels bad to dump the whole rack. However, I could not find this connector block anywhere, and I don't know the make of the rack (it has nothing written on it).

Is there any way to repair this, or should I just replace the whole rack?

Photo of damaged connector below. Note: One of the two connector blocks is still present (though shifted a bit), only the top part is missing (it broke off). The other block is gone, but there were two of them, one on each of the horizontal rods.

Originally, the blocks joined the horizontal rod and the rod of the luggage rack passing above it at a right angle.


texts:
The 2015 Kona Jake the Snakee has Alex CXD6 wheelset installed, but i could not find any information is it for tubular, clincher or for both tire types ?

It has Challenge Grifo Comp 700x32c tires but apparently there are both tubular and clincher version of those available too.


texts:
I have recently bought a boardman pro 29er from Halfords (cycle to work).

I like it and I'm enjoying riding it for the most part however there is a noise.

Whenever I'm in a high gear (largest front cog, smallest back cog) and I'm at cruising speed, pedals moving but not too much force being applied I start to hear an intermittent rattly/springy sound. It's a hard noise to explain. It almost sounds like there is a loose spring tinkling against a spoke. It's a really difficult noise to pin point.

I've wiggled and shook everything I can get my finger on and cannot see anything loose. The only thing I noticed was the dérailleur clutch was set to the off position.

I plan on taking it back to halfords to fix after the weekend but I just wondered if anyone had any idea what this might be.


texts:
After a crash, I noticed my bottom headset cup was no longer sitting flush with the frame (see the right side of the image below). If I grab the headset cup I can rock it back and forth slightly. No cracks I can find at all.

Is it possible to repair this and get the headset cup to sit flush/tight again or is the frame ruined?


texts: Having difficulty bedding my new Gatorskin tyres onto the clincher wheels of my audax bike. Campag Scirrocco wheels. There is a constant 'dip' in the tyre at the same point despite numerous reinflations.


texts:
I was taking my usual morning ride before dawn on an 'adventure' road bike. It is a very steep hill with bends (Ditchling Beacon, East Sussex, England). I was descending and noticed (too late) some debris on the road and applied the brakes on the first corner. My front wheel skidded, and I hit the road and slid quite some distance with very unpleasant consequences. No bones broken but a cracked helmet, torn clothes and some very nasty grazes and bruising. I have been riding a road bike for less than a year and obviously this is down to my lack of skill and judgement as a rider. I would like to learn from this experience. Factors I have considered are:

Light. A better front light may have allowed me to see the debris earlier thereby braking before the bend, maybe not. Can you recommend a good front light?
Braking technique. Perhaps I should not have used the front brake at all. I didn't think I applied it excessively, the bike just seemed to go before I realised it.
Tyres. The tyres I have are mainly smooth with a very slight tread at the edges. Are there tyres that would prevent this kind of accident more than others?
Clothes. My head hit the road very hard and the helmet saved me from serious injury I'm sure. However, as I was going downhill at speed I slid for some distance. When I came to rest I had large holes in my cycling trousers, gloves, tops and skin. Are there clothes that offer more protection without limiting movement or comfort?
Experience. Assuming I want to continue riding downhill, in the dark, on less than perfectly clean and dry roads, what techniques should I aim to learn and how best should I learn them?


texts:
I'm trying to get back on my bike after some failed attempts at recovery from a herniated disk (PT's told me to stop riding but I just got worse anyway so now I'm trying to come back).  I bought an upgrade to my magnetic trainer - a nice fluid one that's supposed to give better training, or so I heard.

So far I've been laying in the low gears and just keeping cadence high.  Everything was fine, nice smooth ride.  I can go 20-40 minutes just fine like that.  But if I try to push myself a little bit by increasing the gear speed the trainer suddenly hits a wall and starts vibrating.  It's really loud, like those buzz strips on the side of the road.  Starts to pedal like I'm riding through snow or mud.  I also have to tighten down the contact bar thing pretty tight to keep the tire from just squeeking.

Once I do this it pretty much kills the workout.  Even dropping back down a gear or two doesn't make it go away.  It's like the fluid gets too hot or something and it just doesn't perform as well.

Is this normal for a fluid trainer?

Further attempts to find the correct google incantations yielded some other people complaining about the same thing wrt the trainer I have, a Blackburn Tech Fluid.  Still interested in more knowledgeable answers though...sometimes people just complain and don't know wtf they're talking about.  Descriptions are very much like what I'm experiencing though:

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-2016647-Tech-Fluid-Trainer/product-reviews/B002RQJTXY


texts: Cosmetic or structural damage to Carbon Crank Arm

texts: So I have a carbon fibre SLK Light Crankset and I managed to scratch up the right crank arm and the end has chipped off. I was wondering whether this is structural damage or cosmetic damage. It has been bugging me for the past few weeks now and I just need some confirmation and reassurance, The OCD really kicked in because it happened in such a stupid way. Really thankful if anyone could help me out!


texts: Shimano short cage rear derailleur capacity

texts: Can an Ultegra or 105 short cage RD handle a 30T  ?


texts: How can I remove a stuck bottom bracket cup?

texts:
I am repairing the bottom bracket of a US$100 bike with hard 2,000 miles (3,200 km). At approximately 1,800 miles (2,900 km) the bottom bracket made a crunchy sound, and after that there was a lot more play and friction in the bottom bracket.

I removed the cranks:

After opening the bottom bracket, I found that the bearings need to be replaced:

I removed the cup on the left side:

I was unable to remove the cup on the right side. The cup on the right side is not seated squarely in the frame. One side of the cup touches the frame, and the other side of the cup is 2.4 mm (0.094 inch) away from the frame:

I tried unscrewing in both directions using a maximum of 120 ft-lbs (160 N⋅m) on the wrench, but it didn't budge.

Another factor in this equation is wear on the spindle:

I have identified these options:

Install new bearings without trying to remove the cup.
Press the cup in so that it is square with the frame. I'm not sure if the cup is threaded or press fit, this would work better if it were a press fit.
Use more force to remove the cup.
Cut the cup out and replace it with a sealed bottom bracket.

To proceed with the repair I need to answer the following:

How important is squareness of the bottom bracket cups?
Is there a trick for fixing cross-threaded bottom bracket cups?
Are the grooves on the spindle too deep to function with this size bearing?


texts: Conversion to horizontal dropouts (for fixed gear), V-brake

texts:
If I convert vertical dropouts (as on picture) to horizontal dropouts as on youtube video by cutting and welding:

            .
Will there be any challenges with the V-brakes ? If axle hole more or less will stay on same place, there shouldn't be any problem ?


texts: Minimum distance between holes in inner tube

texts:
I recently got a second puncture in my road bike inner tube. In my opinion, the hole is pretty close to the other one that I fixed. I searched the internet but nowhere could I find a guideline to see what is the minimum recommended distance between two holes to fix them.

Does anybody have an idea?

Thanks in advance
Daan


texts: Is it possible to ride 18km everyday for a beginner?

texts:
I decided to ride to my university which is 9km away from my home and it is placed on a foothill. I guess the route is 5degrees uphill steep.

I have ridden short routes before but not as long as 18 km.. I'm a beginner in riding, but physically I'm partly OK.

EDIT:
This is the path's elevation profile from google earth:
The average slope is 4.6% and max slope is 13.1% and altitude is 1224 ft.


texts:
I use my bike to run errands on the weekends - stopping for soap and shampoo at the drug-store, a loaf a bread at the grocery store, stopping for lunch, etc. The issue is I have to haul my previous purchases around with me in each store.

Is there some kind of "trunk" that I can add to my bike in which I can secure/lock/protect my purchases? I've seen such things on scooters, but is there something for a bike?


texts:
I'm interested in small women's city bike and a 3-speed 2010 Nirve Wilshire just came up for sale, used.  I've never heard of this company and the interwebs are producing little info.  I searched for reviews, including on the sites recommended in this thread: What are good bicycle review and comparison sites?

Can anyone attest to Nirve bikes or the Wilshire?


texts: At what height should I have my seat on a road bike?

texts:
I am currently riding a loaner from my brother in-law, and I have set the seat height based upon feel.  I was wondering though as to how I can set it to the right height for me to ride more scientifically?

I will also need to set it back to his height when I give the bike back in a weeks time.


texts: What tyres would be better suited? 32c or 35c

texts:
I'm from, Kolkata, India, and the place isn't best known for its roads, at least. Thinking of getting a new bike.. But I happen to be someone who's got absolutely no knowledge about any, and I'm even yet to ride a geared bike!
I don't want to run into many punctures and still have a comfortable ride. The bike would mostly be used for commute and then for longer rides during the weekends (100 kilometres or more). I'm guessing if I have thinner tyres they're very likely to get punctured often. So I chose relatively thick tyres, but not too thick since that'd get me lower speeds.. Would 700×35c tyres be better or 700×32c?
The attached image I'd of how typical roads here happen to be, if there arises a need for reference.


texts: Is there such thing as an automatic transmission for bikes?

texts:
Has anyone ever designed or manufactured an automatic transmission (or automatic shifter?) for cycling?

I imagine such a device would automatically change the gearing to allow the rider to maintain constant cadence or constant torque on the cranks.

I used to daydream about the existence of such a system many years ago when riding my first (battered, second hand) racer as it was such an ordeal to change gears.


texts: How can I determine what postmount I need for my fork / rotor for front and back

texts:
I am planning to purchase Shimano Saint BL-M820 + BR-M820 hydraulic disc brake set for my Specialized Stumpjumper Comp and I have no idea what post-mount to buy since I changed my fork and I am pretty sure the brakes won't fit with the mount I currently have.
Specs:
Fork: Fox 36 Float FIT4 factory 27.5+/29" fork - 150mm - tapered - 51mm offset - 15x110mm boost - 2020
Front brake (current):  SRAM Guide R, hydraulic disc, organic pads, Guide S4 4-piston caliper, 200mm
Rear brake (current): SRAM Guide R, hydraulic disc, organic pads, Guide S4 4-piston caliper, 180mm
Links:

https://www.specialized.com/mk/en/stumpjumper-comp-alloy-29/p/170575?color=281280-170575

https://www.bike24.com/p2344376.html?q=saint%20brakes

Edit: It is not the postmount but instead the adapter
Thanks


texts: How tell if spokes too tight without tensionometer

texts:
Is there a way to tell if a spoke or spokes are too tight, if you don't have access to a tensionometer?

I had to tighten several, and obviously I don't want them too tight, otherwise you risk broken spokes and damaged nipples/rims/maybe hubs.


texts: I recently cleaned and lubed my chain, havent had a chance to ride it yet, but if I leave the chain alone for a day or 2, it seems to seize up. It takes a lot of effort to backpedal it free. After that it seems fine. Does this mean the oil is not able to reach the inner workings? Or is it a reflection of bad lube? I use https://www.fasttech.com/product/1392817 (I am not asking if the lube is bad, but rather if simply bad lube might cause this. Havent had issue on other bikes with singer oil), or are there any other things that might be the issue?


texts:
Still, another of problem most of the cyclist go through "Body Hairs". For guys with long hair all over the body, cycling is another way of punishing that guy (hopefully not me). Especially, the most problematic hair in my body are from thigh, they trouble be lot if not mitigated properly. I have tried shaving them, burning them (O.o) or other wild ways.

What is the proper way to get rid of the body hairs from cycling point of view?


texts: How to know when to bleed a hydraulic disk brake / tips for improving disk brake performance?

texts:
I've had a new bike for a week or two. I bought it online and I'm paying the price of not being able to chat to the store about the brakes.

It is a cyclocross bike with SRAM Rival hydraulic disk brakes.

The front brake seems to be fine, although it is definitely a little bent already, which I will attend to. When the level is applied, the stopping power seems to be quite strong. It bites quickly and is powerful.

However, the rear brake is very ineffective. The reach is the same as the front brake, it is reasonable and if the brake was powerful, I think it would be fine. However, once I reach the point of contact it is very spongy and ineffective.

Is there an obvious way to tell whether it might need bleeding? It strikes me as unlikely, due to the fact is almost brand new.

Are there other things I can try to improve the performance?

I've read about adjusting how close the brake pads are to the disk, I will probably try bringing them close to see if that helps.

Is there a sure fire way to bed in the brake-pads? I'm not convinced they are bedded-in yet.

What's the best way of cleaning the rotors and pads to ensure I haven't managed to get an WD-40 or anything on them?

Any other tips?


texts:
For context this is specfically for racing distances less than 100km.

Are there any considerations for having a deeper/longer drop on your handlebars besides comfort and fit? Should you go as low as you're comfortable?

During indoor training (Trainerroad) they mention getting used to being in your drops minutes at a time. I'm comfortable spending 10+ minutes near FTP in my drops. Should I consider deeper drops for those aero gains?
Thanks!


texts: Road bike - Front wheel can lean to both sides

texts:
I am experiencing a weird mass distribution on my front wheel.
It feels like the front wheel is loose somehow, because if i tilt my bike slightly it will feel like the front wheel leans to the other side. This goes for both directions.

THe wheel is not wobbling/jumping when driving fast.. It just feels like i can distribute more mass to one side.

Do you know what could cause this?


texts: Which bottom bracket do I need to replace crank on a Trek FX 7.1?

texts:
I have a Trek FX 7.1 that I've rode for several years now and replaced parts as they've worn out.

Now I'd like to upgrade the whole drive train with Tiagra 2x10 flat bar shifters, derailleurs, crank, cassette, wheels, etc.

So, my question is, which bottom bracket do I need to replace the old one? There are choices of english thread or italian thread and 68mm or 70mm. Additionally, if there is a higher quality one someone would recommend over the taigra one, that would be appreciated. Please specify size and thread needed.


texts: Is Back-pedalling normal ? chain keeps jumping from higher to lower cog in rear cassette

texts:
I just bought a new bike Marin Pine mountain-1 which has 1 X 11 drivetrain. I want to know is Back peddling normal ? I called my mechanic and he said you should not do back peddling or this will happen.
when I do that it suddenly starts shifting the chain to lower cogs.
I am not sure why ? chain and everything is just 1 week old.


texts:
I have tried a few brands of inner tubes for off road riding, mainly slime and dr. sludge but recently I have suffered more punctures than I'd care for despite the 'green goo'.

My question is what are people's recommendations for good off road inner tubes or tubeless systems.


texts: Is it better to use presta or shrader valve for tubeless conversion on a mtbike, 29" 2.20 tire, and why?


texts:
My mate was massively into his bikes but badly broke his wrist several years ago.   He finally decided to sell on his bike.   Its a Serotta Ottrot S frame, Ultegra gearset, chris king hubs and stem.   The wheels are Mavic Reflex Sup.

While the bike is easy to ride, I have don't like the wheels.   Given that the bike is great for long rides (6hrs+), I'm not looking at aero wheelsets.

My questions:
1.  If I swap the wheels, say within the £500 range, are the hubs going to be as good as Chris King's?
2.  Do I keep the hubs and put them in the new wheels?

Thanks.


texts: Guidelines for building tape delimited MTB courses

texts:
There are a few vacant lots around where I live and last weekend, I built a small (170m) tape delimited course.

Some of the kids in the neighborhood rode in it. I also worked out in it, going full tilt for 30 minutes (ie. 36 laps in 30min, 6.2km). Some portions were up a grade, others went down a grade. There were a few areas that were quite tight to turn around in, but otherwise, it seemed alright. This lead me to search for possible standards in this area.

I was wondering if there were guidelines or standards for building such courses in terms of lane width, turning areas and such?

Edit #1

Here's what our course looked like:

The corner in this image was quite hard for everyone - which could just be testament for our skill level :)

The goal isn't to be a UCI event, just looking to give my kids some more experience riding.


texts:
There are so many styles of socks.  Plus there are always debates on the best looking socks for group road rides.  White, black, short, tall, logos, etc.....  Some old school road purists say that black socks are for mtb only.

How do go about picking the best style? Is there any reason to prefer one style over another? Are there other properties of socks that matter?


texts: I am about to buy a new bicycle - what should I check before I do so?

texts:
I'm not really a pro in bicycles, I barely know the basics about the construction itself, but I love cycling. I've been cycling on my old bicycle for 2 months now and I love it.

Unfortunately, my bike has broken down today, so I need to go to our local shop and buy a new one. I bike on roads, or on easier hills, sometimes on a rocky trails, but nothing really crazy or extreme.

What should I look for when buying a new bike, what should I want, or what should I not want?

I expect to spend about $500 and I really don't want to get ripped-off, or buy a bike I don't need for my trails.


texts:
I live in an area with lots of debris, dodgy paving, and rain, and to make matters worse, I fall down sometimes (I know!). The main things that get damaged, of course, are the brake handles and the rear derailleur. The brakes aren't so bad since the cinch just needs to be scooted back into place, typically.

On the other hand, the rear derailleur is a bunch of fragile, lightweight dangly bits sticking further out than anything on the rear of the bike, and takes a special tool and time out to bend back into place.

The question is, is it worth buying a derailleur guard like this one for a road bike, or am I going to get noob status, ruin the frame instead, or weigh down the wonderfully light frame?

Given that a replacement rear derailleur (Tiagra) would run me 30-50USD and the guard would cost 5-10USD, it seems to be more effective to get a guard. On the other hand, this bicycle co-op raises a serious concern about the axle:

  We have to admit that we are ambivalent about derailleur guards. While a derailleur guard is useful in theory, the fact that the wheel track nuts or QR secures it in place causes misgivings. A derailleur guard can't help but interrupt the interface between the frame and wheel nut. This means that the wheel nut will be less secure, and a less secure wheel is potentially more dangerous than a whacked rear derailleur. Having said that, derailleur guards are usually reserved for kids' bikes where the rider will probably not have the strength to loosen a wheel while riding.

(Don't tell me not to fall down so much; I'm a lost cause ;)


texts:
I’ve had a Brooks B68 for a few years now. It’s 205 mm wide; I have a fairly upright riding position; my back is about 25 degrees off the vertical.

Before choosing it I read the advice on the web which in general advocated measuring the distance between the seat bones then buying the narrowest saddle that ensured both seat bones were supported. If I’d followed that advice, I’d probably have bought a standard B17 – the best selling Brooks saddle.

My experience with other saddles had made me appreciate the buttock support of a wider saddle, so I chose a B68 and haven’t regretted it. Yet it seems I’m in a minority. Others in the group I ride with (we're fairly leisurely) have B17s. The B68 has been discontinued.

What have I missed by not choosing a B17? I’ve laced the nose of my B68 tightly, so I doubt that the saddle nose is significantly wider, if at all.


texts: Can anyone recommend a good maintenance-free rear shock?

texts:
The old shock just gave up its life in my old single-pivot all-mountain frame. I'd like to replace it with something tough and maintenance-free, so that I don't have to worry about air pressure, oil leaks and other things to check before I ride. It should also be mud-proof as much as possible. Weight, price, performance and all others are secondary. Does anybody have a good recommendation? 160 or 165 mm length.

Also, is there more than one standard of mounting rear shocks? I vaguely remember some sort of ball joints being promoted for this a few years ago, but I don't know if this caught.


texts: Will running an LED designed for batteries on a NEXUS dynamo hub damage the LED?

texts: I have a question about LEDs on 6V Shimano dynamo hubs. I built up an old Schwinn with a Nexus dynamo hub, and the headlight I'm using is based on an LED 6V headlamp. The LED is a Chip-on-board design, and I've wired it directly to the two terminals on the hub without using the frame as a ground.  I have the pulses set up to alternate between the headlight and the tail lights. The light works great, but I wasn't aware that the Shimano dynamo is putting out reverse-polarity pulses as well as the ones properly oriented to light the LED. Is this bad for the LED bulb? Will it burn out prematurely because of the reverse pulses?


texts:
First and foremost I have no knowledge or experience in building/maintaining wheels. So I have to try it!

I was reading Roger Musson book and decided to build a truing stand out of scrap I have. I'd also read that some incorporate a dishing mechanism. Now I couldn't find any pics so I decided to do my thing for if you reference all from a fixed point you can dish true and tension at the same time without having to remove the wheel checking dish.

I simply added a steel rule, a slide with a magnet to hold it in place, Calculated what the dish position of the edge of the rim should be, placed the wheel, placed the slide with the guide at the measured position and the test scrap wheel is actually dished correctly. Flipped the wheel over and same position.

To me this saves the hassle of having to pull the wheel on and off to check the dishing, it also saves having to measure using feeler guages or guestimating the out of dish distance. Ie: 5mm = 2.5mm out of dish using a dishing tool. If my setup works as it should then 1mm out of dish is 1mm, it's a direct measurement as you are doing it whilst you are setting up and truing the wheel.

Working all adjustments to the set guide gives you Dish/Truing and Tension if you have a tensionometer or such.

In building a prototype, I stopped (See Pic) for it seems too simplistic. Am I missing something?

Thanks for the responses, I use an outside caliper to measure both the hub and rim widths. The inside of the left support where the locknut meets is square to the ruler and both permanently in position the guide slide is then placed at the resulting measurement.

The objective when set is to bring all wheel adjustments to the guide, this way even if truing your always bringing/maintaining the rim to the dish position instead of accidently going the other way.

Won't take much to scrap up a dishing tool even if it's for checking to see how accurate/inaccurate my set is.


texts: Is it possible to mount Shimano Ultegra 6870 Di2 on a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix?

texts:
I was just wondering if it was possible to fit the 6870 Di2 on a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix ? It has no internal wiring. I think the 6870 Di2 has a new round long battery that only goes in the seat post. I don't think I could get a wire out of the top of the seat post.

Here is an internet picture of my 2012 cannodale supersix

I was told on another forum that the battery should fit the seatpost.

I guess I could drill a hole in the frame but it would void the warranty.


texts: What might be causing the faulty shifting on my bike?

texts: I bought a used bike that has 8 speed cogs and 3 speed chainrings. The front shifts great but the back regularly fails on the 6th and 5th speeds. I know a bit about adjusting the shifters so I can say that they are currently set up right. What I'm not sure with is which component is causing the failure. The shifter, cable, and chain are new but the cogs, rear derailleur, and hanger came with the bike.


texts: Correctly sized chain with impossible too loose B-screw adjustment?

texts:
I have recently changed my cassette from a 11-32 to a 11-25 (11 speed). To make the change possible, I have reduced my chain size to 106 links (53 inches) by the largest cog, largest chain ring method. For further information, my crankset is a 52-36 teeth.

When I installed my RD-6800 (SS), I noticed that even by removing the B-screw, the derailleur is never too close to the largest sprocket (largest sprocket, smallest chain ring configuration). How is that possible?

I thought that maybe I screwed up the chain sizing, but I have just recalculated using the equation and the recommended chain length is 53 inches:

L = 2*(16.125) + (52.0/4 + 25.0/4 + 1) = 52.5"

Is it maybe due to the bike or hanger design?


texts: Using Direct Mount brakes on braze on frame

texts:
I've just purchased a frame with a single hole in the middle (of the forks and on the rear bit where the rear brakes mount), and a pair of direct mount rim brakes.
I was wondering if there was some sort of adapter that I could buy from Shimano / elsewhere to make it work?


texts: Bike pulses while applying the front brake. I'm unsure what the cause is

texts:
Once per rotation of the front wheel, when braking, the bike pulses under me. The brakes are calliper rim brakes.

Swapping wheels out fixes the problem - so it is definitely wheel related
The wheel is true
I can't see or feel anything different on the brake track.
I have tried cleaning the brake track with degreaser and rubbing alcohol with no luck
I have also sanded the brake track to try to remove anything that could be on there.
I have measured the rim all the way round - exactly 19mm rim width the whole way around.
The pulsing does not occur when the brake goes over the rim joint.

And it's still happening.

Any suggestions?


texts: Help identifying the model and year of this classic steel, women's bike

texts:
So what particular model is it? From what year? Any other details you know?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TgDG6ab1lDOv7S3G2


texts: 21 speed front gears go 1 to 2 to 3 and 3 to 1, but not 3 to 2

texts: My front gears can move up just fine, but to go from 3 to 2 I have to go 3 all the way down to 1 then up to 2 for the chain to engage. Doesn't even seem to try on 3 to 2.


texts: Handle bar rotates on its own. Can’t screw the screw all the way down

texts:
I have a second hand Peugeot road bike. I noticed the handlebar was rotating on its own, unscrewed the screw, straightened the handlebar and found out it won’t screw back.  Later I found out the screw is a bit deformed which is probably the reason it won’t screw back.

.

Went to my local hardware store and they don’t have this screw. Anything I can do? Are there still screws like this one?, cause these bikes look pretty old.


texts: 1980's bike vs New(er) Models? (Should one stay with an ancient bike?)

texts:
I have been cycling on a Centurion Pro Tour that was constructed sometimes in the 1980's - probably late 1980's, but still.

It works great.  It coasts downhill far faster than my hybrid, it doesn't weigh very much and I have definitely gotten perfomance results from riding it.

But, it is still from the 1980s.

It kind of forces you to ride in an areo position.  Once, I felt a pull in my back when I was riding up a hill (the topographic lines are very close together on that thing), and it took me days before I could ride again.  Sometimes, I feel it a little in my elbows.

It is worth it to look at a new bike?  My budget is really only 500USD or so.  Or am I just not adjusting it properly?

I know it's a narrow question on the fact of it, but I can't be the only guy with a decent ancient bike who would like some opinions one acquiring a new one.

My bike shop told me to I'd benefit from a new one, but hey - they are trying to sell bikes.

Thanks!


texts: I currently have a cheap begginer’s MTB. A Toseek Brandon 27.5er 1x8 with hydraulic disc brakes and I came across a circular drop bar handlebar close to my original flatbar diameter. Is there a possible way to connect my current hydraulic disc brakes to drop bar brake levers?


texts: Can I replace a middle chain ring with one with different number of teeth?

texts:
I recently upgraded my wife’s bike with a Shimano XT triple crankset. The number of teeth is 44.32.22t. However, the middle chainring on the recent XT crankset is carbon-reinforced, and I’d prefer not to trust in carbon for our primary cycling activity, which is long-haul touring.

From an earlier bike build, I happen to have a never-used Shimano middle chainring lying around, made purely from metal, but this one has 36 teeth. Is it possible to replace the 32-tooth ring with a 36-tooth one, keeping the crankset's other teeth (44 and 22) the same? Or do triple cranksets require some kind of precise ratio between the number of teeth on the three rings?


texts: Replacing Quick Release skewer with through bolt axle

texts:
I have a 2013 Pinarello Dogma 65.1 Hydro. The bike has disc brakes. The bike was built with quick release skewers on Mavic Aksium wheels. I have just read that Pinarello actually recommends 9mm through bolt axles on the front wheel and 10mm through bolt axles on the rear wheel. Evidently TBAs are better at keeping the disc rotors in alignment. I have certainly experienced problems with rotor alignment repeatedly on the front wheel after long steep descents.

Can I just replace the existing QR skewers with TBAs on the existing wheels? Can anyone recommend a source to buy these TBAs?


texts: Is it legal for me to ride a bicycle on the pavement (sidewalk)?

texts: UK only, just wanted to check if it's actually legal. The area I'm living on is deadly on the roads, so want to know about riding on pavements (sidewalk/pedestrian walkways) instead where there is no bike lane (half of the roads have bike lanes around here and suddenly they disappear...).


texts: Replace SR Suntour remote speed lockout to normal knob

texts:
My MTB has SR Suntour XCM 30 fork with Remote Speed Lockout system. I rarely use the lockout system but it is useful sometimes. I want to convert this remote lockout system to normal knob which can be turned using hand when needed. This will help to reduce cockpit clutter while keeping lockout as well.

Is there any way to replace remote lockout with normal knob on mentioned suspension model?


texts:
I recently got a basic beater bike for pootling around the neighbourhood. All it has for brakes is a rear Sturmey-Archer AWC coaster brake. Having used almost every other kind of hand-operated brake in over 30 years of cycling, the coaster brake seems very strange:

stopping at a junction doesn't seem to allow any kind of gradual stop; you have to keep both feet on the pedals until the bike stops, then kind of flop off the pedal to put your foot down.
starting up again at junctions requires you to remember to leave your lead pedal at the 2pm position, because you can't back-pedal to get it to where you need it.

I should point out that I'm using this on quiet, mostly flat areas, and am not mixing it in heavy, fast traffic. I have other bikes for such use. I'm also referring to small-e effective, not Forester-style big-E Effective Cycling.

So how does one ride with a coaster and stay safe and sane?


texts: How Can A Faster Rider Aid A Slower Rider On A Long Ride?

texts:
For the context of this question, two people are trying to get from point A to point B (and back) where the only viable means of transportation is bicycle (and a tandem bicycle / electric bicycles are not available).  The distance between the two points is 20km (40km round trip).  Preparation time is limited, we could go visit point B next week, but it is unlikely we'll ever find ourselves in this part of the world again.  The bicycles we do have available would be rented, mid-ranged commuter style bicycles.

We'd both like to make this trip.  One of us is a daily commuter (15km each way) who is used to longer rides of 40-50km on the weekends, the other rides rarely and has never gone more than 3km at a time.  Even at a slow pace, 40km would be far more than this rider could do comfortably.

What tips/techniques (if any) are there that would allow the stronger rider to complete the trip as comfortably as possible?

Thanks


texts: Why would higher fork contribute significantly to breaking the frame?

texts:
When I recently cracked my frame near the headtube, every bike shop that I went to, asked me explicitly "Did you put a longer travel fork?".

Putting aside that apparently fork travel and fork crown height are two entirely different measurements, and that the fork height is actually critical, how does a higher fork contribute to higher stress in the frame?

Also:

What is the effect of lower fork than the original?
Does bike A, being sold with higher fork than bike B, mean that A's frame is stronger? Or is it just different geometry?


texts: Front Derailleur 10T Capacity (XT FD-M8025)

texts:
I'd like to move from a 1x11 crankset to a 2x11 crankset to extend both my high and low gear range.
Shimano has indicated that their XT M8025 Front Derailler has a 10T capacity.  It means that I could only use a 10T set-up between my front chainrings, such as running a 36-26 combination (10T difference).
My goal is to run a 36-24 combination (12T difference) with an XT 11-42 Cassette. Is it possible to run such a combination with an XT M8025 FD "without noticeable" impediments ?
Your answer or experience is appreciated. Bike tinkerers please chime in.  Thanks :)


texts: I have seen people stop with one finger, two fingers or the whole hands on the levers. Is there a recommended number of fingers on the brake levers when stopping/anticipating an emergency stop? Do brake types or riding style (DH, road ..) affect this number?


texts:
Currently building a new mountain bike and for the time being I'm using the old forks until I buy some new ones.

My question is how do I find out what type of headset I need? Because from my understanding there are quite a few different types.

Update: I have uploaded a couple of images. It looks to be integrated, as there are bearings/cups already in the frame and threadless. The steerer/stem width is 1 1/8th.

I think that solves my question.


texts: Mechanical disc rotor for CUBE MTB - front wheel : Shimano 559x17-21c

texts:
Seeking advice with regards to the size of disc brakes for front wheel.

Cube mountain bike. Front wheel: Shimano 559x17-21c. Disc brake: Shimano brake disc sm-rt 10 Centre Lock 160mm

Could you kindly advise - would a 160mm brake disc be suitable for a cube MTB - front wheel size- 559x17-21c I do not have a picture of the bike at present, if necessary I could get it and send it later.  Not sure of the model either.

Many Thanks,

Tam


texts: Can anyone help me with identify this Giant bike?

texts: I need a name for this bike so I can look into it. It's going to be sold to me but I don’t want to get ripped off. Thanks!


texts: Mountain bike tyres unreliably lose and keep pressure?

texts:
I have a old mountain bike (10 years old) and for most of it's life it's sat in the shed (being ridden lightly maybe once or twice a year), only recently have I tried riding it regularly for the first time since ownership.
I have a really strange problem with the bike tyre pressures, sometimes whilst it has been in the shed they have gone completely flat and just sat there like that for over a year.  When I finally get round to riding it, I pump them up and they are good to go, however, sometimes after pumping them up they go completely flat the next day.  Other times, when I pump them up they hold pressure for months on end (if not years) without going flat.
What I found really strange is yesterday I thought my front tyre pressure was slightly low so thought I'd pump both tyres up nice and high as I'm mostly using the bike on the road now.  Pumped them both up, put the bike back in the shed.  Today, I go for a bike ride and the back tyre is perfect, solid, the front one is completely out of air.  So pumped it up again and went for a ride, half way on my journey it went completely flat again and so had to ride back on the flat.
Now I've taken apart the front tyre and pumped up just the inner tube, it's holding pressure fine for now, will do the water bucket test tomorrow, but there are currently no signs of leaks.
Does anyone have any idea why my front tyre can hold pressure for months on end and then after being pumped up it immediately goes flat very quickly sometimes (the back has done the same in the past).
Since I'm riding the bike more often, I really need to sort this as I am travelling further and further and it really sucks to come back on a flat.


texts: Should I update my Bontrager Litespeed mountain bike?

texts:
I have Bontrager Litespeed frame mountain bike, custom-built back in 1996. it hasn't been ridden much and been stored. Still in excellent shape.  I'm no longer going mountain biking and thinking of updating the bike with new components, making more of a crossbreed between a mountain bike and a hybrid.
so, new disk brakes from current v-brakes
adaptors to mount disc brake to frame (older frame doesn't have the mounts for disc)
new rims to accommodate the disc brakes, new tires.
maybe a new cassette, if needed?

I think that's it, but I'm probably missing something

thoughts, suggestions?

I plan on doing the work myself

thanks


texts: Using an LED torch as a helmet light, will I blind oncoming drivers?

texts:
I'm planning on buying this LED Torch with this helmet mount.

Could I blind oncoming drivers?


texts:
Presently my bike has an FSA 19mm piece of junk BB and omega chainset. As this is a unique system it has no compatible parts. The bike uses Tiagra 4500 9 speed for the rest of the components.

If I fit a HTII BB(24MM) and a Sora 9 Speed crankset (50 & 34 tooth like the FSA) will that work or are there any other compatibility issues about not changing the entire set?


texts:
I've just learned of a local century ride that is only 2 weeks away. I'd like to join, but not sure if I'm ready. I've been commuting by bike for the last five years. The last year of my commuting has been 18 miles/day that I do at least 4 days/week. Over the last 2 months, I've done several weekend rides of 40-50 miles, but I haven't gone over 50. I usually take one 10-minute break at about the 75% mark during these longer rides. After these longer rides, I'm tired and hungry, but feel like I could keep going at a leisurely pace after eating. Am I ready to leap to 100 miles? I don't have any days between now and the event where I'll be able to go for more than about a 30-mile ride.

The terrain for the century is flat, just like my normal biking.


texts: Is It ok to store your bike outside for 8 hours/day?

texts: The place where I work has some bike racks outside with some basic roof on and not much else. That means if it rains it won't fall directly on the bike, but otherwise it is exposed to the elements. Is it ok to store my expensive mountain bike there every day, all year round, for 8 hours/day? Or will it get damaged over time?


texts: Can you please help me identify this bike. I think it is aluminium as it is only 9kg all up. I suspect it is quite good as it has very good gear such as Shimano Ultegra. I appreciate your help.


texts: Can I get an ebike with a 500 watt motor in Australia?

texts: I'm a bit on the heavy side, so I'd like to purchase an ebike with something a little gutsier than the usual 250 watt motor so that I can go up hills. Can these be purchased in Australia at all?


texts: Why did my valve pin bend? Is there anything that I can do to help it without any specialized tools?

texts:
I have a new bike (been less than a month since it was purchased) and has been ridden for about 600km (375 miles) on bad city roads.
What may have caused this bend of the valve pin?   Is it possible for me to be fixing it right at home with a very basic tool kit that I have?
Should I try bending it back to the middle, or is it best to take it to a shop and have someone fix it for me?
I'd also like to know what may have caused the bend because the bike hasn't been in any crashes whatsoever, or even gone over a pothole that I would consider mighty or particularly worth noting.


texts: Difference between Road/Mountain Hollowtech II Bottom Brackets?

texts: Shimano sells Hollowtech II bottom brackets which are labeled for road and mountain bikes explicitly. I had no trouble fitting a Shimano Deore BB52 Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket into my road bike and so I wonder is there a real subtle difference that I failed to notice, or is this just marketing?


texts:
I really enjoy riding. However, today I had a, truly, terrifyng experience. I was chased by three feral dogs. I was able to out pace them, but it it really left rattled.
I understand that if one acts like prey, one gets treated like prey, but I am conviced thise dogs would have have ripped me to shreds.  Acting dominant and standing one's ground when dealing with a domesticated dog makes sense. Standing up to three feral dogs aounds like a death sentence. My question then, is what should I do if I'm confronted with this situation again?
Thank you.


texts: Calluses on palms/Pressure on hands - what to do?

texts:
I've been cycling for several years, but recently I developed calluses on the pads of my palms. I'm referring to small raised lines, similar to those you would get from weightlifting. And, by the location I mean: the start of the raised part of the palm which controls the thumb, near the middle of the palm.

These calluses appeared "overnight", and although I'm not sure why, I had spent some time caring for my bike (handling oils and lubricants) and then cycled quite a lot in grim, wet weather. They appeared as a result of that.

Since these have developed, they are irritated by the pressure I put on my hands through cycling on a road bike (I usually cycle 20km each day) - and so, they are not getting any better and may be getting worse over time.

I'm interested to know any strategies for relieving the pressure on this part of my hands.

For example, will changing my bike setup change where I put pressure on my hands? How can I set that up?

I use drop handlebars, so where should I grip the handlebars to minimise pressure on my hands?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: Pannier rack bag for a not suitable suspension fork (Btwin Rockrider 5.1)

texts:
I ride a Btwin Rockrider 5.1 with a baby seat, and want to attach one or two pannier rack bags. I guess I only can put it on the front wheel because of the baby seat which goes over the rear wheel, fixed to my seat tube.
At the store they say I have nothing to do, since this fork is not ready for that kind of accesories (it only has two screw holes for an eventual disk brake).

Is there any kind of rack I can use?

Do I have any chance to put it on the rear wheel under the baby seat?


texts:
I know that tyre pressure is a pretty subjective thing with many factors coming into play (tyre type, terrain etc.) but would I be able to run lower pressures for the same conditions on a 29er than on a 26er due to the larger tyre footprint?

For example: I typically run my tubeless tyres on a 26er between 2.0-2.3 bar (29-33 psi) would I be able to run the pressure in the 1.8-2.0 bar (26-29 psi) range?


texts: Why would a bike computer calculate distance accurately but average speed inaccurately?

texts:
My otherwise reliable non-GPS bike computer calculates an extremely inaccurate average speed for my morning commutes. After my ride this morning, I read the following values from the display (units are in miles and miles per hour):

trip dist: 1.70
trip time: 00:06:29
avg speed: 16.47
max speed: 23.86

However, the actual average speed is: 1.7 / (6 / 60 + 29 / 3600) = 15.73. The reported value is off by almost 5%. This bothers me because I like to set goals to improve my average speed (for my traffic-light-enforced "interval training"), but the inaccuracy is higher than the 0.5 mph increments I reach for.

I would have assumed that a bike computer would compute average speed simply by dividing "trip dist" by "trip time"? What is it computing, and why is it different than the true average?

(slightly related: Why aren't average speeds computed over distance?)


texts:
I built up a Specialized Rockhopper over this last summer, ending up with a sleek, blacked out, Deore & XT equipped thing of beauty.  During a brief stop at a buddy's place, the 12mm Kryptonite cable lock was forced and it was gone.  About five days later, I'd chased it down, finding it completely stripped.  Even the BB cable guide was removed.

I've decided to rebuild, mostly in hope of transforming my anger as much as the Specialized.  The left bottom bracket shell has some damage that concerns me, I'm asking for possible solutions and to run by ya'll my thought on a possible fix.

!

I'm going to face this left side, if only to remove the galled aluminum that sticks out past the original, proper edge.  Could one be more aggressive and remove 2.5 mm from the shell width on this left side (ending up with a 65.5 mm shell) then add a 2.5 mm spacer to bring the cup out to the 68 mm position?

Can I use that many spacers with outboard bearing cups? (There'd be 2, 2.5 mm spacers on both the right and left side).  I remember on cartridge bearing BB's that there is a limit to the amount of spacing tolerated and it's different for metal cups than if plastic.  Is there a similar restriction with outboard bearing cups?

Finally, is the frame ruined? (If so, somebody cue AC/DC's "Dirty Deeds" cuz it's gonna be my jam for a while).


texts: How does the frame split on the 2016 Novara Gotham belt-drive bike work?

texts:
I am considering purchasing a Novara Gotham with the Gates carbon drive (2016 model), and before I purchase I am trying to determine how the frame split works on it. The pictures in REI's online store indicate that it may be a welded gap in the seat stay, which I find somewhat difficult to believe - that would require rewelding the frame to replace the belt.

How does the Gotham's frame split work? Where is it located, and how does it come apart/together?


texts:
Can I upgrade my bike with a METREA Urban crankset with chain guard 1x11-speed if my current system is Shimano FC-M171, 42/34/24 with bottom bracket Shimano BB UN26?

And can I install CS-5800 cassette if now is Shimano CS HG31, 11-32, 8-speed with Rear Hub Shimano FH-RM 35, 32h? Thanks for information!


texts: Removing Derailleur Hanger from Devinci Spartan

texts: So I'm in need of new derailleur hanger and bolt kit. My question is how to remove the hanger from my kinda frame (2018 Devinci Spartan). I'm used to just using a 5mm Allen key to unscrew two little screws on the backend but that's not the case for this one. I'm guessing the bolt there on the front where the quick release goes thru needs to be taken off before I can get to the hanger (based off the picture I provided). Tools to use? (socket wrench?) Any help appreciated.


texts:
This question is about the economics of owning and maintaining a bike.

I bought a brand new mountain bike for $250 some months ago. I ride about 30 miles a week on paved trails for occasional exercising. The cost of a yearly tune up in my area is about $80.

Should I forgo the tune up and buy a new bike every 2 or 3 years? The bike was bought online and is of similar or better quality than those cost $350+ at REI. Entry level but for my purpose it is fine.


texts: What is the best treatment (not prevention) of saddle sores

texts:
What is the best way to treat saddle sores?

Loose clothes, Gold Bond medicated powder, or Moisturizer?

What seems to help reduce the painful symptoms of saddles sores once you already have them?

I know how to prevent them, so I'd prefer to focus on what to do after you find yourself with this problem (like after you decided not use use chamois cream).


texts: What do the numbers of shimano components mean?

texts:
Shimano components have numbers, presumably to denote quality. E.g. Dura Ace stuff has numbers like 7700, 7800, or 7900. An Ultegra might have 6700 or 6800 on it. A 105 might have the number 5600 or 5700 attached.

Obviously the first number indicates the product-line. What is the second number? Are these the only components with numbers, or do tiagra, sora, and lower get these numbers too?

What does it all mean?


texts:
I just took my rear tire off of my mountain bike that has hydraulic disc brakes (elixer5). When I put the wheel back on and started pedaling it made a clicking sound.

At first I thought it was the spokes rubbing up against something (that's what it sounded like, some metal sound). I took the tire off again and took a good look at the disc brake pads, I saw a skinny metal "r" shaped thingy leaning out in the slot where the disc would fit.

Is this where the clicking is coming from and if so how do I fix it? Please ask for any more information I couldn't think of for more clarification.


texts: How to get the rear wheel off Pure Cycles bike

texts:
We tried for hours to get the rear wheel off this bike using wrenches and hammers. Then I noticed this screw that looks like it attaches straight to the rear axle. Do we need to undo this screw?

Its probably just rusty but before we break something I thought I would check.


texts:
What are some bike sharing services out there? I know that there have been some in Europe. Here's wikipedia's entry.

This is one that I heard of recently in NYC.
http://www.transalt.org/campaigns/bike/bikeshare?

I think that as cities make themselves more green, these will become part of the norm like rental cars or Zipcar.

Do you know of any new ones? Hear of anything starting in your city?
Anyone out there that is a member of bike sharing services? What worked and didn't work?
I'm really curious about what can make them successful.

My hope is that this post will generate honest and useful feedback so that companies offering these services or new companies can utilize the info here to improve on current offerings.

Also see: European cities have bike rental stations? on Travel.SE.


texts: How to tell if a carbon frame is damaged or if the paint just has stress cracks

texts: I am looking at a carbon framed road bikethat has me concerned.On the topside of the bottom bracket,drive side there is a very small hairline crack in the paint.The seller states that it has been there for two years with no change.He was told by the dealer that it is just in the paint and a fairly common occurence.Anyone else experienced this?It is a three year old cervelo.The crack is 3/4 inch long and you can't feel it with a fingernail.


texts: How do I figure out what rear axle to purchase for new wheel?

texts:
I have a Voodoo Bizango 2016 and recently purchased a new rear wheel for it as I’m a larger rider and kept popping spokes.

It’s a Halo vortex 29" wheel with a Shimano HG freehub.

I’m trying to start doing work on the bike myself and just finished swapping over the cassette and brake disc when I noticed that there was no space for the quick release skewer to go into.

Do I need to just purchase a new axle and skewer? How do I get the correct size?


texts:
Last week, I had to abandon a training ride due to my chain slipping off my rear derailleur jockey wheel. This would only happen when shifting, and most often when either shifting chainrings or shifting multiple cogs in one go. I took the bike in to my LBS, and they diagnosed it as a bent derailleur hanger — a reasonable guess, given I took a spill in a crit the previous week (although, curiously, I did not have any problems in the race between my wreck and the training ride). They bent the hanger back into place and sent me on my way.

Tonight, on my first ride after the fix, the problem was happening again. Same deal, but less frequent. Shifting multiple cogs, especially right before/after a chainring shift would reproduce the problem with a high probability. After getting home, I put my bike in my stand and checked the alignment with a derailleur alignment gauge. It's absolutely perfect. And yet a little shifting while in the stand and I was able to easily reproduce the problem.

To recap:

chain slips off bottom derailleur jockey wheel
perfect derailleur hanger alignment
only during "significant" shifts
not limited to shifting under load
SRAM Force components

Pics are below. Any ideas? If more pictures are necessary in order to diagnose the problem, I'll be happy to provide.

Edit: After discussion in the comments, the problem is almost certainly that the derailleur cage is twisted and misaligned. Time for a new derailleur.

Edit 2: New derailleur purchased. Problem solved.


texts: I am re-wiring my bike lights to add a smartphone charger and improve the connections. Wires are going in pairs, one wire in a pair being marked with a white stripe. Since I am using LED lights, polarity is important. On electronics SE and in many places on the Internet I found that the white-marked wire should go to the plus. However, my hub dynamo has the marked wire connected to the contact marked with the ground symbol (so it is connected to the frame). Usually in electronics the ground is negative. Is it a mistake of the bike manufacturer or am I missing something?


texts: What's a good hub for ultra bikepacking races?

texts:
I've now twice had the body of the rear hub destroyed during bikepacking racing (999 Miglia 2017 and Race Around Denmark 2018).

I'm currently using Zipp 303 Disc with 177D hubs from 2016 and it seems they can't take the load. I'm "only" 66 kg, but the bike is heavy during these races.

Should I rebuild the rear wheel with a sturdier hub or change wheels when participating in ultra-distance unsupported (hence the heavy bags) races?

Zipp user manual: https://www.zipp.com/_media/pdfs/manuals/2016_ZIPPSPCRevA.pdf


texts: How does a quill stem without a front bolt work?

texts:
Looking at quill stems I noticed this rather curious one and I couldn't imagine how it secured the handlebars without an apparent bolt. Any ideas?

more images


texts: Campagnolo 11 speed crank with 10 speed running gear

texts:
I currently have an older 10 speed Campagnolo Record group set with 52/39 cranks.  I would like to get a compact group set. I can't get an equivalent 10 speed compact cranks now but I can get an 11 speed set.

Can I use 11 speed crankset with the remainder of my 10 speed group set?


texts: There's a pair of long bar ends that I came across on Decathlon (https://www.decathlon.in/p/4407859/cycle-handlebars-stems-and-grips/3-position-long-bar-ends). I was wondering if these could be rotated 180 degrees (from upright position) to convert them into drop down bars or maybe tilt them by 90 degrees to make an extended aero flat bar? Can it work?


texts: Not sure if it was a good purchase? I have looked around the internet trying to find a similar badge but no luck. Here is a pic.  Thanks for looking.


texts: My derailleur completely "opened" up. It is now almost a straight line. What have i done to my derailleur?

texts: I had a flat on the side of the road.  So I took my wheel off to replace the tire with a temp to get me home.  When I reinstalled the wheel, the derailleur "opened up" completely...what have I done/forgot to do? Can I fix it or is it done?


texts: Can I change my derailleur without changing my shifter?

texts: I have Shimano V-Brake 8-speed shifters on my bike. These have the brakes and the shifter in one component. I'd like to change my derailleur can I put in a newer 8 speed Shimano derailleur that will still work with the old shifters? It'd save me from buying new shifters AND brake levers.


texts: I had a new Shimano 105 cassette and chain put on my bike by bike shop. When I exceed 25 mph without pedaling, I get loud screeching sound (and feel some gripping), when I pedal it clearly goes away.  What can it be? My brakes are not touching my wheels. I think it is my cassette but am open to any other ideas.


texts:
I have an MTB with tires that roll very poorly on pavement because of the thread lugs. I'm looking to get a pair of slicks and I'm hoping to get some advice here. My bike is a 29", I think they current tires are 700c 2.0" so I'm looking for something between 35c to 45c? What's the difference from choosing 35c vs 45c? Will it go faster on 35c and can I expect some difference in handling of the bike?
Would it be better to buy some new wheels than 2.0? Any advice on optimal tires for such a bike?


texts: Help determining spoke length along with an education

texts:
I understand that there are spoke length calculators and I have an understanding of what variables are at play when calculating spoke length, though I remain absolutely lost when actually attempting to build a wheel in reality.

If someone, anyone, could help me calculate spoke length from a set of criteria I would be so grateful that words cannot express my appreciation. Though I want to understand how this calculation was made, so that I don't remain forever ignorant.

(Interestingly, I went so far as to offer payment for an education on a popular bicycle-related forum, and no one there was able to explain how to make this calculation—instead, I was mocked, while still no one could make the calculation. Why is spoke length so elusive?)

I want to build a wheelset from this hubset: Milwaukee Bicycle Co. Hubset - 32h

I wish to lace said hubs to these rims: H+Son TB14 700c 32h Polished Rim

Would someone be able to help me calculate what length of spoke I would need?

If you can calculate a spoke length, can you help me understand how you came about that figure?

If you can help me, I would be so grateful that words cannot express the level of gratitude with which I would be left with... You would become adored.


texts: Swapping a road bike frame for a bigger one?

texts: I happened to be given a decent bike - Trek 1000 - in a good condition. The only problem is that the frame is only 56 cm while I am quite tall so I need ~62 cm. Is it possible to take all the nice parts from the current bike and put it on a new/used larger frame? I think all of the parts should fit the new one, I am just not sure about the fork. I do not know much about bikes neither I ride a lot (at this point), so any advice is greatly appreciated!


texts:
My rear wheel is bent and I have no idea what kind of wheel I should be buying for replacement.

My bike is a 700Cx23 road bike with 14 gears and a 7 speed cassette. I was advised that I'd need to buy a new wheel and fit the cassette into it.

What equipment and what kind of wheel do I need?

I'm really clueless as I'm quite new to all this so any feedback would be really appreciated! :)


texts:
I have a new mountain bike with an SRAM GX 12-speed drivetrain. I am thinking about rotating the chain to make maintenance easier and to increase the lifetime of the cassette. I would swap between two chains every 250 km or something.

But the chain comes with an SRAM PowerLock.  SRAM advertises these links as a one-time use link. This makes me think that I have to use a new PowerLock every time I am swapping between the chains. This cost would make it less desirable for me. But they are cheap, so it is surmountable.

So my question is: How can I rotate chains on an SRAM GX-12?

Is it worth using a new PowerLock every time?


texts: Why are bicycle gear ratios computed as front/rear and not the opposite?

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I recently realized that when people talk about bicycle gear ratios, it's calculated as number of teeth on the (front) chainring divided by the number of teeth on the (rear) sprocket/cog.
This made me a bit confused, because I was thinking that gear ratios are usually the opposite - driven gear/sprocket/pulley divided by the driver (e.g. motor).
When talking about motorcycle final drive, the formula is rear/front sprocket teeth. When reading motorcycle/car specs, the lowest gears - 1st gear and reverse - have the highest numbers.
I tried to find why it's the opposite with bicycles, but so far couldn't...
Can someone shed some light on this topic? How this came to be historically?


texts: lock box to hold phone/wallet that attaches to my bicycle

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I want to bike to the beach, lock my bike up and swim. I am looking for a high security box that either threads through my U-lock, bolts to my bike frame... so I can keep my wallet and phone in it while swimming.
Thoughts?
jg


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Is it possible to shorten or extend a chain only one link as shown in the photo (in red square). Or do I have to shorten at least two links in order for the other end to match?

The reason I'm asking is that with my current setup (front 52/36, rear 32/11) if I remove one link the chain becomes too short to shift to 52 front and 32 rear. If I extend the chain one link and shift to 36 front and 11 rear, the chain rubs on the derailleur.


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I recently bought an old Eastman ten-speed. It's got 700x23 tires on steel rims.

The walls of both rims bend out slightly, maybe 10 degrees each. I'm not sure if they were built that way, or if they've bent slowly over time.

I want to know if this bike is safe to ride with the tires at 80-100 psi. I don't want the (front) rim to explode at 40mph.

Does the fact that they are steel (instead of aluminum) remove the risk of a blowout?

Here's a picture:


texts: How do I reassemble this Quando rear hub?

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Closely related to how to reassemble mountain bike rear wheel hub and bearings, but not quite identical and my noob brain cannot piece things back together.

I disassembled the rear hub to clean it and remove rust, and of course thought too highly of myself to take any picture of how it used to fit together.

Here's what I (think) I managed to identify:

A: Nuts for fitting to the frame

B-C: Nuts and spacers to hold the cones together?

D: Cones, of two different thicknesses - not sure which one goes on which side?

E: Rubber seal? no idea where it goes

F: Metal seal, I understood it needs to go on one on the cones, but on which side?

G: Very thin and very (!) worn out spacer. No idea where it was

H: Very long spacer, same material as the cones

I: Extremely worn out axle. Any idea where I can buy one? Does it have to be exactly the same model?

I would very much appreciate any help :-)

EDIT: I finally found the original part (https://www.ktgroup.net/pro.php?m=d&pid=113&cid=47&f=1). It seems like some of the components I have aren't original (it's a second hand bike so who knows what happened before I got it). Also there is absolutely no way I can find to order a replacement part here in Europe. Can I put another axle? Also it seems like I am missing one of the metal seals. Are those standard ?


texts: Is there a difference between the durability of the chains with 1/8 and 3/32 inch?

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I mean, I have a single-speed bike and have chains width 1/8 inch.
The other standard I could use on my bike is 3/32 inch wide.

Is there a difference in durability?