texts: I have a 2009 Specialized Hardrock, with a Shimano FH-RM30 QR rear hub and a Shimano MF-TZ31 freewheel. I took apart basically the whole wheel assembly trying to repair the freewheel. Now it's a week later and I need to resassemble, but I don't recall how the axle was configured. I think I have the pieces in the right order in this photo(?), but in the middle row you can see a washer and a spacer...no idea where those would go, and my Google searches are coming up empty. I'm sure a real mechanic would know how, where and why to use those spacers, but I'm clueless. Can anyone help?


texts: If my tyre size is 27 by 1/4. what size of wheel do I need. I just bought a second hand road bike and will need to repair it. But one of my problems is what size my wheels are, 700c or 27 by 1/4.


texts:
Recently went for a ride in the forest, there were sections of sand and I can clearly see sand on my bike chain now.

How can I clean this off effectively? There are chain cleaning "machines", but they look like more of a gimmick.


texts:
I am currently thinking of upgrading my suspension for to something like a Rock Shox.

This is the bike I have:

https://www.cyclerepublic.com/catalog/product/view/id/4535/s/voodoo-bantu-650b-mens-mountain-bike-2016/?gclid=CjwKCAiA9f7QBRBpEiwApLGUiizwX2OekS8GOrEvZOcExb0Kroack3qj-VU7L0xlUn0AN8KaBu5L0xoCMWoQAvD_BwE

I was wondering what should I look for in term of specs so a different fork will fit my bike (i.e stem width and threadless and axle size)

Thank you for all answers


texts:
There are two questions here really though they both have to do with fit.

Today I tried a Baad Raad electric fat bike.
This question isn't about batteries or fatties.
I just wanted you to know this bike will be used on rough trails,
snow and whatnot.

The question is about fit.
This is a one size fits all bike.
The frame is said to be a large one.
It seems to be about ninteen inches.
I am six foot two. I tried the bike out and
was pleasantly surprised as far as performance is concerned.
When in pedal assist it does exactly what I want it to do and more.

Do some bikes have shorter cranks on them?
I could still put up the seat more no problem.
The cranks feel short to me. Is that because the seat should be raised?
Is there more to it than that?

What about the handle bars?
My mechanic says they can be raised as well.
Will that affect how the bike fits as far as legs are concerned?

The price is more than right if I can tweak the fit a bit.


texts: I am looking to buy a used hybrid.  Its a Trek 7100 multitrack. How can I find out what years trek made this bike?  And how can I find the current value? Bicycle Blue Book doesn't list the Trek 7100 multitrack and the vintage trek site doesn't either.


texts: Upgrading SLX brakes, do I also need SLX rotors?

texts: Gearing up for my first big upgrade and recently bought a pair of Shimano SLX brakes for both my (2009 Gary Fisher Piranha) and my wife's (2011 Trek 6000 WSD) bikes. I'm just wondering if it's worth upgrading the rotors to SLX rotors also or can I continue to use the existing rotors? Is it safe to assume that if I have rotors that work with resin pads they'll continue to work with the new SLX resin pads? Thanks.


texts: Still confused about clipless, walkable shoes and dual-purpose pedals

texts:
I've read everything at What should I look for in clipless pedals and shoes? and I'm still not sure I can have what I want.  I mainly use the bike for commuting (which will be bike-train-walk) and running errands, including with a baby seat when I don't want to be clipped in.  So I'm looking for:

Ability to ride in normal shoes as well as cycling shoes.
Cycling shoes I can walk some distance in (say a mile at a time), and sit around in on the train.

To me the second point suggests the cleats should be recessed - but does this then rule out the first point? Shimano M424s (cheap/beginner option) and MT50 both allow normal shoes but I can't see how they'd work with walkable clipless shoes.  Should I give up and just get some half clips and normal shoes?

I've also looked at walkable clipless pedal shoe to replace normal shoe? but there's no definitive answer there either.


texts: Appropriate oil viscosity for the inside of a freewheel body

texts: Without taking one apart, I have seen people spraying WD40 into a freewheel body to clear it out, and then dripping Phil's tenacious oil into it for lubrication. The thickest stuff I have available at the moment is wet-weather chain lube. Will this work or destroy the freewheel? How important is viscosity here?


texts: Is it possible to fit a 36T chainring on a 34T frame?

texts:
I'm thinking of building a bike from scratch around a Commencal HT AM 2018 frame, which normally comes with a 32T front chainring (1x setup) and says it takes 34T max. However a 36T would be ideal for my riding style, and the difference in radius measured at tooth tips between 36T and 32T chainrings is less than 9 mm (by calculation, roughly 72.9 vs 64.8 mm). Given such a small difference, I think 36T  would fit based on this photo, which features a 32T chainring (you can see more of this bike's photos here):

However, I have no practical experience, and it would be a pretty expensive schooling if I bought a good chainring and found it does not fit. Anybody knows whether this would work?


texts: Upgrade my Globe Vienna for commuting and distance riding, or look for a new bike?

texts:
I've been cycling for about six months now, and am looking to get into some distance cycling and want to get my speed up on my commute.

I currently ride a Globe Vienna
and was wondering if it was worth upgrading my current bike or just biting the bullet and buying a new road/racing bike.

Any help/advice would be much appreciated!

T


texts: What should I plan for on a sea-to-summit ride on Mauna Kea, Hawaii?

texts:
I've driven up to the visitor station but not up to the summit - what are the road conditions like beyond the visitor station, where can you refill water, and should I prepare for anything beyond a leg crushing day?

I'll be starting on Kona (west) side, in September, and am expecting about 6-7 hours of straight climbing.

Here's about all I know so far;

  Mauna Kea, Hawaii, HI

  This mostly paved climb is perhaps the largest
  rideable climb in the world.  The first 34 miles are paved, then 5
  miles often loose cinder gravel, and then 3 final miles of pavement.
  The first 28 miles up Saddle road from Hilo gains only 6600 feet at
  modest grade, tapering off to almost flat in the saddle between Mauna
  Loa and Mauna Kea.  Turning off onto Mauna Kea Access Road is a real
  shocker, as you are now faced with sustained 17% grades at high
  altitudes.  The Fiets index for this climb is off the charts at nearly
  30.  It’s a combination of net gain and high altitude driving the high rating.  Like Haleakala, views are too good to describe with words.
  Many of the world’s most powerful telescopes are at this summit.

ref: http://www.northeastcycling.com/Favorite_Climbs.html

Thanks


texts:
I'm finally going to buy a bike next month.  And a helmet.  I'm wondering how much I should budget for buying a helmet.

I'll be riding around New York City, so I want good visibility around me.  And safety is a big concern for me as well.


texts:
I know this question has been asked many times on here and other bike forums.
I'm struggling to find a proper answer.

The NLGI basically refers to the thickness of a grease.

I have some lithium based grease on hand and the NLGI grade is 3 (consistency of vegetable shortening), so thicker than grade 2 (consistency of peanut butter).

Would a grade 3 grease be fine to use for bicycle hubs?

Thank you for any help!


texts: Is it okay to store bike tires in unheated garage over winter?

texts: I have a lot of spare tires for bikes. I can either store them inside my house in the basement or in the garage. I've got a lot more open space in the garage, so that's my preference. However, I live in the northeast U.S. where we get a lot of temperature fluctuation around the freeze point and sometimes temps lower than 0F (which is rare, but happened quite a bit last winter). Is it generally okay to store my spare tires in the garage or should I bring them in the house for the winter?


texts: Brand new disk brakes are barely stopping the bike

texts: I just built a mountain bike with Avid BB7 brakes and Shimano V-brake levers. I used the exact same configuration on another bike, and it worked beautifully. But on this one, the brakes are just weak as hell. I know that disk brakes are supposed to have a short break-in period, but I'm way beyond that now, and still no change. What's going on and how can I fix it?


texts: Can I replace QR front wheel with bolt-on?

texts:
The 27x1 1/4 steel QR front wheel on my 1985 Raleigh Grand Prix has a bend; not just not true, it is bent.  I cannot find a replacement wheel, but have a 27x1 1/4 steel wheel with a bolt-on axel.  Is there any problem or consideration in replacing a quick-release wheel with a bolt-on wheel?
Also, the bent wheel is original; is there any possibility of repairing the smoothly bent rim?


texts: What are some good tips for riding in a large group?

texts:
One of the popular bike routes near me has a few groups that ride together on Saturday and Sunday. The groups get as big as 30 to 40 riders and they move fast (25 to 35 mph). I have occasionally joined the group at the very back and hung on for dear life. Being at the back, I always get dropped when they speed up. Does anyone have any advice on how to get comfortable farther up in the pack?

It is a mostly flat road with some rather poorly maintained sections of potholes. It is usually the potholes that cost me enough speed to drop off. In the middle of the pack am I just stuck hitting whatever is in my line?

For the curious, the route is Sheridan Road along Lake Michigan north of Chicago. Great ride if you are ever in the area.


texts: How long does it take to get used to a hard saddle?

texts:
I recently "upgraded" to a Romin Comp Gel saddle from a soft racing saddle because my old one, while extremely comfortable on long road rides, wasn't working for the TT position I'm now practicing for an upcoming Ironman.

I've been professionally fit with the seat, so I think things are lined up well.  I've ridden nearly 200 miles over the last week with it and the problem is: it still freaking hurts.  It's not chafing; it's pressure right in that, uh, under-area that's supposed to sit in the gap of the saddle.

Can I expect it to get awesome any time soon, or should I try another saddle at this point?

Edit:

Regarding seat position, I have my current seat all the way forward, which is where I've been steadily moving it over the last two weeks since my professional fitting.  Moving it forward did help, but now I'm stuck again (and I have one of those bent seatposts that is pointing forward as well).


texts: I'm a novice not sure where to get a bike education?

texts: Like most kids I road everywhere through high school than my biking waned to the neighborhood rides with my kids when they came along.  Currently I have a Schwinn Single Speed Cruiser that my dad special ordered for my mom from a Schwinn shop in the late 80's/early 90's. She didn't ride it much and I've had it about 18 years and my hubby has kept it maintained for me. I have no knowledge of bike vocab/lingo but want to extend my biking skills and ride more trails.  I don't know where to start, don't know if I have the best bike although at this point it's what I can afford.  Advice?


texts: What features to look for in a replacement gear cabling?

texts:
What features are recommended for gear cabling to suit Shimano Tiagra front & rear derailleurs?

I'm pretty happy with the performance of the cabling the bike came with, I haven't had any issues shifting. I don't have any information on what components were used though.

I've found PTFE coated stainless steel inner cables, non-PTFE coated stainless steel inner cables, and non-lubricated outer housings all sold separately. I've also found pre-lubricated & sheathed outers included with kits that come with the complete set of inner / outer / ferrules / endcaps.

Would I run into any shifting issues if I used a less expensive inner or outer that didn't come pre-lubricated, and if so could I apply a 3-in-1 chain lube or teflon grease to the inner cable to improve shifting? Or would I really notice a difference with shifting on a 2x10 Tiagra groupset by installing a higher end kit that came with all components included and pre-lubricated? Would there be any issues with replacing the inner cable only?

Edit: Bike is a 2019 Giant Fastroad SL-1 with Tiagra 4700 groupset.


texts: Is there a quality alternative to powder coating when it comes to repainting a steel frame?

texts: I'm not a paint expert and want to make a choice that will last a few years. I know that powder coating will last a long time, but I'm restoring an older bike and don't want to spend too much. Maybe someone has a creative solution.


texts: What does usually worn first, the chain or the cog?

texts:
I have an old bicycle that I would like to repair. Basically the chain is always "clicking/jumping" when I pedal.
I know this is either a worn chain or cog. My question is what worns first?

If it's the chain I might actually give it a try and switch it. If it's the cogs I don't think it's worth the money and I doubt I can switch it myself and I don't want to spend too much money with this.


texts: How should I fix my Ortlieb Rack Pack (medium, 31 litres) to my rear panniers?

texts:
I recently bought an Ortlieb Rack Pack to go across the top of my rear pannier rack. When the pannier bags are attached the Rack Pack works great: it clips into the two pannier bags and everything holds together nicely.

However, if I'm only using one pannier bag or if I'm using the Rack Pack on its own, I struggle to get the Rack Pack secured to the rear pannier rack. I'm thinking of using a bungee cord, but should I try something else instead? Is there a different kind of strap that is specifically designed for fixing things to panniers?


texts: When my wife gets done with a long ride she finds that her right oblique hurts, while her left does not.  Does anyone know a possible cause of this, like improper form or saddle fit?


texts: attaching seatpost acessories to rear of racks?

texts:
most night lights are designed to attach to the seatpost. but while carrying a bag on the rear rack that area get's blocked.

some manufacturers sell cheap, awful, lights that attach to the rack (topeak) but i figure some kind of adapter would be much more useful (mostly since everyone may have night lights before getting a rack... i do :)

but my searches for such a adapter failed. do you know any?

This is one example of night light i have
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/rechargeable-7-mode-red-5-led-safety-bike-tail-light-with-7-mode-2-red-laser-beam-35mw-90117
(i regret. do not buy, laser is useless snake oil. but the leds are OK. EDIT: regret #2, i had rain for the 1st time --socal-- and when wet, the shorted the buttons which are obviously not water proof, so it spend all night turning the leds and laser randomly on and off. battery hold up ok though.)

and this a rack
http://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/mtn-2-rack.html
(it has a hole on the back, where you can fit a L shaped adapter that holds a reflexive cat's eye)


texts: What is the use of GPS/Elevation on Bike computers

texts:
Can any one let me know what is the exact use of GPS/Elevation on Bike computers
(EDGE 500,510 or TIMEX 2.0)?

I ride with a SIGMA BC 16.12 (with CADENCE) and POLAR HRM. I check my elevation using STRAVA.

One reason that i can think of is

    all these data collated onto one graph for post ride analysis.

Apart from the above reason, is there any advantage of GPS/Elevation detail during the ride?

Thanks


texts: Combine Nexus 3 Hub with Torpedo 3 gear shifter?

texts:
I have upgraded my bike with a Nexus 3 hub, but the corresponding gear shifter takes away too much handle space on my crooked handle bar (I have to grab the gear shifter during my rides). Hence, I'd like to use a more flexible gear shifter that can be installed everywhere on my handlebar, as e.g. the classic Torpedo. I am wondering whether these are compatible.

Many thanks in advance


texts: Is it safe to cut off from the inside of my helmet?

texts:
Having a rather "pointy" head (think of something like Patrick Stewart's head), all bicycle helmets I've every tried on tend to have contact with only one point at the top of my head.

Now my idea was to cut a little bit away from that rigid foam at that location. Let's say 1-2 millimeters at the size of a dime.

My local bike dealer told me that the whole helmet has a fine-tuned structure that completely breaks down when removing even the slightest piece of rigid foam, no matter how small.

While this sounds strange to me, I'm confused right now.

Therefore my question is:

Does a bicycle helmet still has protection when slicing some 1-2 mm from the inner rigid foam at a size of a 1-2 cm circle?

(I'm from Germany, in case this matters; maybe our helmets here are different)


texts: Which inner tube do I need to buy for 28 inch fixie bike?

texts:
I have a 2018 FIXIE Inc. Betty Leeds.

https://www.fahrrad.de/fixie-inc-betty-leeds-white-694674.html

These are the sizes of the tyres:

Reifen vorne Marke: Kenda Typ: K-193 Größe: 28 Zoll Reifenbreite: 28 mm

(Tire front Brand: Kenda Type: K-193 Size: 28 inches Tire width: 28 mm)

and I am looking for inner-tubes here:
https://www.bike-discount.de/

Unfortunately, I did not see the description of the inner-tyres in the web-site.
Which one should I buy?

Thank you!


texts:
I don't have a car and think about biking to ski resorts. So the question is how to carry my XC skis on a bike. Have anyone tried doing this and what was the solution?

Thanks.


texts:
I'm trying to service my DT Swiss wheels.

I watched some videos that show how to grease cartridge bearings but don't understand how to get to them. I tried to unscrew the ends using two adjustable wrenches but just ended up stripping the edge of the nuts.

How do I get he end nuts off the axle?


texts:
I want to change my bolt because it is rusty.  I am concerned that something bad will happen if I remove the bolt completely.

Can someone please tell me if it is okay to remove this bolt completely?

There are three bolts in the picture and all are rusty.

Your quick answer would be helpful to me.


texts: How do I select a rear deraileur for my mountain bike?

texts:
I have damaged my rear derailer and are looking for a replacement, aside from replacing it with the exact same model, what do I look for in terms of compatibility.

I note that there are long medium and short cage sizes, what is the difference?

Also, there are 7, 8 and 9 speed versions.

Some models I have seen have large plastic pulleys and look like they are definitely not for a mountain bike. What is this about?


texts:
Currently, I have Shimano Tiagra 4600 series brifters on my bike, and the barrel adjuster on the front derailleur cable slips when the shifter/derailleur is in the smallest chainring position, when the cable is at its slackest.

The adjusters appear to be Jagwire Rocket adjusters (see photo), and the cause of the slipping seems to be that the notches on the screw part and base are somewhat different in size and don't engage well enough to prevent the adjuster turning due to road vibration.

I could fix the problem with the existing adjusters by either filing out the notches on the fixed barrel to be slightly larger, or possibly using a mild threadlocker. However, I don't feel that these are good solutions to what appears to be a design flaw with the adjusters (which came with my bike from the factory).

I have a number of questions as to the best fix for this. Should I use the cable adjuster designed by Shimano , subassembly (4) on the ST-4600 exploded view, which contains an alternative baseplate to place on the shifter itself that provides the indexing and retention of the adjustment.

Alternatively, should I use an inline cable adjuster like the Shimano SM-CA70 (see spread 11/page 20 on the 24 MB 2013 Shimano Spares catalogue). I know that these are intended for brifters with under-tape gear cable routing, but are they higher quality than the adjuster that would be built into the Tiagra shifters?

Another option would be adjusters that fit into the downtube cable stops, but my frame (Cannondale Synapse Alloy) has somewhat unusual non-threaded ones mounted on the sides of the head tube, and I fear that the stops being mounted so far forward on the bike would pose an issue with sharp bends for the cable exiting the adjuster if the bars were turned a large angle.

Small edit: If I had to summarise the question to be a bit more objective, it is this: do all cable adjusters for the front derailleur cable have issues with slippage due to the lower cable tensions, or are the Jagwire Rocket adjusters just unusually bad at keeping their position? Do either inline or cable stop adjusters generally perform better than the other option?


texts: Is it safe to re-use old spokes when re-lacing?

texts: Due to hub replacement, I'm rebuilding a wheel. Are spokes used for a 32h tri-cross laced rear disc hub re-usable for a second building or is it worth the extra $20-30 for new ones?


texts: What are the advantages of the different clipless systems?

texts:
In the past I have used the Look road pedals and the SPD system, however I know that there are many other systems, including some that work purely on magnets.

What are the advantages of the various systems, and when would you recommend them?


texts: what should ibe the first thing i upgrade on my bike?

texts: i have a specialized hardrock 2011. i want to improve the capabilities of my bike but am on a budget so cant get a new one. I would like to upgrade the fork, brakes or gears and im looking for something in the range of £50-£150. anyone have any suggestions as to what to do?


texts: Can different size feet be a cause of knee pain?

texts: Left foot is close to a full size bigger than right.  I have always had some left knee pain since going clipless.  Have always went with the shoe size for the larger foot.


texts: Allen Coggan power profile table for Cyclo cross riders?

texts:
If you were to create a power profile based on those seen in training and racing with a power meter by Hunter Allen and Andrew Coggan. What would it look like a sprinter or an all rounder?

To help answer the question I have found an article which lists some of the power put out in certain zones by Ryan Trebon during a cyclo cross nationals race.

Rider weight: 80kgs

estimated ftp is: 415 watts or 5.19 w/kg (rounded up by .25, not sure if that's the right thing to do?)

Max power is: 1431 watts

The article goes on to state that he produces 'between 400w and 800w, or between about 95 and 190% of his FTP. He accelerated more than 120 times at or near 850w for 20 to 30 seconds (10.6w/kg). 120 times!'. To top it all off 'He goes on to produce 11 more maximal sprints at 1200+w throughout the race, ending with a final maximal kick within the final 500m of 1190w'.

Link to the article: http://www.cxmagazine.com/training-cyclocross-power-ryan-trebon-wattage-file


texts:
My chain says "Z KMC 3C-2 RB" which I suppose refers to as 'Z8 RB 1/2" x 3/32"'?

The bike shop where I have bought from until now doesn't have this exact model. So what are the key properties of the chain, so I ca buy another brand?

I want to get the best possible quality if possible.

Update

It is a 7 speed.


texts:
My eyesight isn't so good so I'm more reliant on my ears to let me know that there's traffic close by.  Normally I'm fine, but at higher speeds, the noise of wind blowing past my ears can obscure the sound of car engines, so I get a bit less warning when there's something near, especially of drivers coming up from behind.  As far too many drivers coming up from behind are really inconsiderate and pass too close when overtaking or tailgate you, not knowing that there's someone coming up is something of a problem.

How can I deal with reducing wind noise so I can hear my surroundings more clearly?


texts: would you use vo2 max intervals increase your functional threshold power using a power meter?

texts:
As described in this blog post below:
http://www.training4cyclists.com/threshold-power/
Example: 3 x (3+3min) at VO2max / recovery. If you use a heart rate monitor, your heart rate should be above 95% of maximum at the end of these intervals. If you use a power meter, your target power could be in the area of 120% of your functional threshold power or even better based on your 5min maximum power. - See more at: http://www.training4cyclists.com/threshold-power/#sthash.DbD9Dyf9.dpuf

Or would you use the intervals methods described in the blog below:
▼ 10 minute controlled warm up with bursts up to FTP
▼ 20 minutes @ 85% FTP
▼ 4 minutes recovery @ 150 watts maximum
▼ 20 minutes @ 85% FTP
▼ 6 minutes cool down spinning at 100 rpm
http://www.flammerouge.je/factsheets/functhresh.htm

Or have I missed the point of either recommendation in the blog posts above and are these type of intervals dependant on the time of year?


texts: Can I replace my 1/4" wheel bearings with slightly smaller ones?

texts: On my back wheel on one side balls won't fit! I am 100% certain they are the same balls I took out easily with the magnet on my screwdriver several weeks ago to mail my bike home.  They are 1/4" balls.  I'm afraid if I get new balls, they wouldn't fit either since they are not worn any smaller.  I even tried freezing the balls to shrink them and get them in, but that didn't work.  Can I use 15/64" balls?  They don't seem to fit the curve of the cone snugly anyway, but they do seem to fit the cup.  I don't really want to take a ball out since it leaves such a large gap.


texts:
I've heard that once you've ridden 200km, the bigger distances are just about proper nutrition and hydration. Is this true? I want to know if I'm ready for a bit hilly 300km, if my current max is 200km.

I did 200km yesterday and was feeling ok afterwards - just a bit tired. After my 200km a week ago I was much more tired and in pain, so there's a progress.

Is there a big leap between 200km and 300km rides?


texts: Change gear on a shimano Schwinn Ranger, not sure what Allen key size to use?

texts:
I've tried an Allen key 7/64 but that didn't work and the others on my Allen key set but none seem to fit this shimano on a Schwinn Ranger.

One of the derailleur cogs broke in half.

Here is an image of a similar bike with the same Shimano drive train.

http://www.target.com/p/schwinn-mens-ranger-26-mountain-bike-red/-/A-15287654

Thank you!


texts:
This is one of my rear v-brake pads.
The wear is rather uneven.
Is the wear normal?


texts:
I'm interested in attaching LED strip(s) onto the frame of my bike. Are there features of LED strips that I should be looking for when making my decision of which one to get? What's the best way to attach them?

I plan to use the lights only from time to time, and would not mind having them battery powered (I would use rechargeable batteries anyways). In terms of colors, I would love to have the strip able to oscillate in patterns (most do in any case), though this is not necessary.


texts:
I have Trek 1.1 with currently 700*23C tyres.

I need to replace them but the one available in market are 700*28

Can I use this size as replacement?

If yes, what'll be advantage and disadvantages?


texts:
Preparing to move, I found this together with the papers I got when I bought my bike. But what is it? Is it important?

It is about 2cm long.

I have four of these... Maybe related to the disk brakes? I was hoping they could be pad spacers, but that might just be wishful thinking.


texts: Cheapest and safest way to clean MTB drivetrain?

texts:
I've got a CUBE Attention MTB which has been serving me well, but out of a lack of knowledge I never bothered to degrease the chain before relubing it, so over time there has been a build up of gunk and hardened material that I haven't really noticed because my whole drivetrain is black.

I've heard people telling me to degrease it with WD-40 and then simply relube it but this doesn't seem to be a good idea. What are your personal tips and tricks regarding this?


texts: Stages FSA BB30 Power Meter on Cannondale SI BB30A Crankset

texts:
I have a Cannondale CAAD12. It has a Cannondale SI crankset. The frame's bottom bracket is BB30A.

My question is, can I fit a Stages FSA BB30 Power Meter on the non drive side?

My concerns:

BB30A is 5mm wider than BB30. Will this affect my q-factor (lateral distance between cranks) or can I get around it by changing spacers.
Will the Stages FSA actually fit on the Cannondale Spindle?

UPDATE
This chart suggests that I should be ok with Stages FSA BB30. Does anyone agree?


texts:
I repaired a puncture in the back wheel of my bicycle and had some trouble re-attaching the wheel to my bike. I finally did it but now the chain makes a terrible crunching noise when I pedal forward, apart from when I'm in the first gear. I don't know what I've done! Everything looks like it's been put back correctly.

Question: Help!  What have I done wrong?


texts: Suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade

texts:
I live in Bulgaria and I am looking for suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade, budget 400-500$ . I am planning to travel from home to work (dayly) and to take part in competitions like 100 km (about 63 miles) mountain lap called the "The 100km Vitosha Lap" and to have occasional drifts in the mountain .

My choice so for goes for Drag Ontario Pro. I have heard good things about Sprint Apolon too, but I am not so impressed. 2nd hand RAM or Scott are also an options.

I am interested to hear suggestions and if you don't know what to recommend me in that price range advices what I should be looking for when buying a bike with options for later upgrade.


texts: What rpm when peddling is the most energy efficient aka least calories burned for the fastest speed?


texts: Can cycling adversely affect male fertility?

texts: Is there any evidence to suggest that cycling adversely affects male fertility?


texts:
So I just managed to remove the fork from the old frame I'm renovating. In the headset bearings, the grease looks odd!

See these tiny metal balls? At least it looks like that... Is that on purpose, is that debris? The races do not seem to be damaged. If I reuse the same headset, should I try to find the same type of grease, or any waterproof grease would fit?


texts: Short cage derailleur: how to find out maximum sprocket differences?

texts:
I'm building a kind of new bike and would like to put a triple or compact crankset on it.

I've still got this NOS huret derailleur set (front, rear and shifters) laying around which would match the bikes flair pretty well; but I'm worried it won't fit.

How can I calculate the maximum size difference in front and rear sprockets this derailed can handle (by looking at it's dimensions).

The derailleur model is the Huret Svelto. I'm looking into buying a crank with 34t and 48t sprockets and have a 7 speed rear cassette of 13t - 24t (but these are loose sprockets and can be changed).

What is your advice?


texts: Do chains on single-speed last longer than those on geared bikes?

texts:
I have a Jamis Beatnik (love) and ride on the single-speed side of my hub.  I'm wondering - derailleurs seem to me like they might 'stress' the chain (even if only slightly) more than single-speed in the process of changing gears.  Are geared bikes' chains harder to maintain / shorter lived than single-speeds'?

(Background: I noticed I hardly have to clean my chain on my single speed, and it always looks great and feels tight.)


texts: What exercise should I do in the gym to assist with hill-climbing?

texts:
I have a few events coming up this year which have a fair amount of climbing (one is over a hundred miles with about 6500ft of ascent - that's an average of just over 1% for the entire distance). Obviously the best training is to get out and ride hills, again and again, but what recommendations are there for gym exercises to help?

I have access at work to a reasonably well equipped gym (a decent selection of weights machines and a small amount of free weight equipment). I haven't actually used it much - I used to do a sport which demanded a lot of time on the weights and since stopping regular training for that I've been enjoying not having to push any iron. So my imagination for weights is a little rusty.

So what would you suggest as good exercises in the gym to improve climbing capabilities?


texts: Waiting for Dropped Riders - Group Ride Etiquette

texts: For most casual group rides I've ridden, there are points where the lead pack pauses to wait for dropped riders (usually at the top of climbs).  When the last dropped rider has regrouped, the pack immediately starts off again.  I've always wondered why this is, would not the last rider be the one most in need of rest (especially if it's me!).  If time were an issue, why not just keep going leaving slower riders to go at their own pace?  If concerned about keeping the group together, why not slow down?


texts: How do I remove this back wheel axle nut? 90s Peugeot mountain bike

texts:
It's a 16mm nut that won't turn, and I don't want to bend my cone wrench.

The other side came off easily but was a normal nut. This side seems to have some sort of lock/ hole for a pin but I'm not entirely sure what to search for in regards to it

http://s29.postimg.org/3v75cum3r/image.jpg

I've uploaded a picture, notice the little dip / semi circle hole on the end of the axle? I'm pretty sure this is related to whatever's stopping me from turning the nut


texts: Can anyone help me identify this bike from 2002?

texts:
I got it as a gift in 2002, I was a kid back then. And it was stolen from me in 2004 and I didn't do anything. I would love to buy the same model now, but I can't remember what it was and unfortunately I only have one blurry photo. I just hope I can find an expert to identify this bike. Thank you very much in advance!
By the way, it had a blue seat with a bird sewed, but I can't remember that very well either, must it been an eagle.


texts: What does "SRAM Custom" (front derailleur) mean?

texts: I'm going through specification of Specialized Epic Comp bicycle (link) and there is in column FRONT DERAILLEUR: "Custom SRAM, 2X10, high direct mount". What does it mean? Is it some kind of specific derailleur for this bike? Does it mean it is not possible to use ordinary SRAM x7, x9, x0 series? Thanks in advance


texts: The front tire of my Huffy 3 speed rubs against the right fork as it spins

texts: The front tire of my Huffy 3 speed rubs against the right fork when it spins.


texts: Feet slip off flat/cleat hybrid pedals when it's wet

texts:
I have those hybrid pedals that allow for both clipping in with cleats, and riding on flat pedals with ordinary shoes.

As I use my bike for cycling around the city, I mostly use the flats.

What I'm I'm finding though, is that when it's wet my shoes will slip of the pedals. I think it's because the clip in parts are slightly raised above the flat area.

Any suggestions for mitigating this?


texts: Replacement of cup that holds bearings on huffy beach cruiser

texts:
I have a 1980 Huffy "Good Vibrations beach cruiser which has been in parts for a little while.  I was able to find and put back together everything except I am missing one of the metal cups which are at the top and bottom of the head tube of the frame where the handlebars/fork assembly goes through.  This little cup holds the bearings allowing the handlebars to be rotated freely without wobbling so this little piece is somewhat important to make the bike ridable again. I'm not sure of the exact name of this part unfortunately.

Where would I be able to find a replacement for this piece to be able to get my beach cruiser back on the road?


texts: Who grants ebike-ready certifications for tires (aside from manufacturers)?

texts:
I have tires with (among others) official-looking decals implying (with varying wording and symbology) that they are "ebike-ready" (EBR) and rated to speeds of either 25 km/h or 50 km/h. I recently wondered, "who certifies these?" I.e., is there an independent certification authority (e.g., UL or one of the many organic food certifiers), or can any bike-tire manufacturer just slap this on the sidewall {at will, with no external verification}?

So I did some websearch and ... got surprisingly little. I did find one good Medium post about ebike certifications generally, but it has nothing about tires other than a mention of ISO 5775, which (IIUC--which I might not!) only regulates tire and rim sizing.

Edit: Thanks to @Affe, I eventually found something that's almost, just tantalizingly close to what I want. The Dutch standardization org NEN publishes (though only behind a paywall) a standard (NTA 8776) for helmets for "speed pedelecs" (which AFAICS == ebikes). More importantly, they publish this table of NTA-8776-certified helmets (archived here) which not only includes the make and model of each NTA-8776-certified helmet, but also the Certifying Body ... which appear to be independent. (FWIW, the values in field=Certifying Body are in each current case one of

CSI
Telefication
Vias Institute

). So I'd be very interested to see similar data regarding standards, compliant products (per the standards setter--i.e., not the maker/vendor), and certifying bodies for {ebike, speed pedelec} tires. (FWIW, I searched for this on the NEN website but found nothing.) Until then, my guess is there are standards for ebike tires, but the tire maker self-certifies to the standard.


texts: Can I straighten bent rims between two flat surfaces?

texts:
I have some bent bicycle rims and would like to straighten them. I drew a basic scheme of what I want to do, the idea is to make a concrete plane mold as seen in the design to exert pressure on the bent rims. The details are on the figure. Would you have some design and/or material suggestion? It's OK if you think it's useless I will appreciate the advice.
Thanks in advance!


texts:
I have a bike that recently began riding again after many years.

It is a flip-flop hub. When on the fixie side, there is no noise. When on the freewheel side, there is a grind when riding uphill.

I greased it, but made no difference. What can I do?

Is it better to have the chain tight or slightly loose?


texts:
I recently discovered this horizontal line on my double walled aluminium rim (Triban road bike), pics attached, and was wondering if this was a crack or just a manufacturing artifact. Could anyone confirm if they've seen something like this? To me this looks too perfect a straight line to be a crack. Any ideas/opinions would be appreciated.
Many thanks
JJ
left side -
right side -


texts: Do I need to get a replacement bike for this broken chainring?

texts:
I wanted a cheap commuter bike, and just received this bike from Amazon. I have little knowledge about bikes, but looks like the middle chain-ring is broken to me.

Is this indeed broken, or is it something that is not too big and can be safely ignored? (I am still to get my tools so haven't yet assembled the bike, so can't say if it shifts/rides alright in that ring.)
If it is not something to worry about for now, how long do will it last till major problems start showing?

(Larger version of the picture here.)


texts: Pannier Racks On Frames Without Mountings

texts:
The winter was harsh and the wear on my beloved road bike and its incredibly fragile ultegra componentry was too much on my wallet and I'm starting to explore winter bike options. I've decided I want to keep the drop bars and have been looking at gravel bikes, I also am considering light bike touring as a use for this bike. Although my primary useage would be commuiting and I want to have a fun bike I can throwaround a bit.

My choices have narrowed to the following 2 bikes:

Trek Checkpoint ALR 5 2021 £1950
Canyon Grail ALR 7.0 £1699

The grail comes in £150 cheaper, which I could use for winter gear or a bike fit so I am much more tempted to go for this bike. Spec wise the grail also seems to beat the Trek, the only disadvantage (aside from the Trek coming in a whacky colour) is the lack of pannier fixings on the Canyon.

Canyon sell a variety of bags for big touring but I would ideally like to have panniers on the bike for my commute to work, keeping my clothes dry and more space for shopping as I would like to do my weekly shop on the bike.

I've briefly looked into 'mountless' pannier racks and would like to get an opinion on whether they are worthwhile. From the looks of it I can mount a rack using the axle and then clips onto the seatstays / get an adapter for the seatpost to mount onto, or even use 'p-clips'.

What are peoples experiences with bikes that don't have dedicated fixings? is it worth risking it for a slightly cheaper + higher spec'd bike? Are the mountless racks sturdy? Do they make thru axle mounts?


texts:
My used bike came with different front and rear tires. It appears to have some kind of Kenda commuter tire in the front, and Continental Country Ride in the rear. They are both the same size (700x28).

Is this perfectly acceptable or should a bike always have matching models (and/or size)?

My main concerns from mismatching tires:

Grip thresholds may be inconsistent
Ride comfort?
Wear rates (but rears seem to wear faster anyway)


texts:
I find that when riding across loose ground such as dry mud or sandy patches with my mountain bike that the back wheel can sometimes slip and I have to stick a leg out.

What are the typical reasons for this? The bike is new, do the tyres need some working in perhaps?


texts: Safe cycling lights red but the man is green

texts:
At a standard road crossing, the lights have turned red, but the man has gone green for pedestrians to cross. What do you do?

Honestly in the situation I coast through as long as there is room. (i.e not a sea of people crossing)
Now my question is, is this bad cycling? I believe not, but I am interested in the views of other cyclists.

Question inspired by this thread on lfgss  and this video... kinda


texts: When I pull my disc brake handle the mechanical caliper will grab then release

texts: My rear disc brakes will grab a little then release all together. I had tightened by cable at the brake handle so I loosened it but it still does the same. It is a Trek mechanical disc brake.


texts: Can't identify this bolt. Please help. Bolt from adjustable stem

texts:
I found this bolt from my friends bike (from an adjustable stem).

And I need another bolt like this for my second hand bike because it didn't come with it. It would be much appreciated if you can help me with this. Thank you.

The black part on the top is just grease.


texts:
My Bosch eBike has dual batteries which I usually ride with one battery.  I feel like as the weather drops to freezing the bike power has dropped off slightly and when I ride with the second battery added back on the power is raised back up.  Is this expected?

Obviously I am aware that double the battery means double the range but I didn't think a double battery would provide more power than a single battery which was fully charged.


texts:
This is the suggested follow up question from this earlier question that dealt with if I can bike on the beach.
While it turns out I can ride the beach on 32c tires, the comments made it clear that I should take other things into account.
So, should I ride on the beach? What are the pitfalls I should be aware of? And what advantages are there over staying on the road?


texts: Shimano FC-MT610 12speed 30T crankset substitute

texts: I have a Shimano FC-MT610 12speed 30T crankset and wish to go to a crankset with more teeth for flatter terrain. Shimano offers a 34T version. Is there a higher tooth crankset compatible with this BCD=96mm? Shimano or other brannd? Thanks.


texts: Cyclocross for road bike type of routes - Increased risk of INJURY?

texts:
I am 33years and just moved to belgium. My work commute is about 25km (16miles). I plan to buy a bike mainly to commute to work and get the exercise and decompress after work.
I am new to biking but was introduced to Cyclocross, which I thought a great alternative since it also gives you the flexibility to ride in the woods.

I went to a bike shop and asked the sales guy if it would make sense to buy a cyclocross, most of the time I will be on the road (there are no woods on the way to work).
He scared me away from that idea, saying i would be more likely to get injury, back/knee/neck if I did 25km commutes regularly on a cyclocross. However on the internet I got the opposite feedback, saying the position on a CX bike is more relaxed then on a road bike. Even so I hear that a CX bike can be set up exactly like a road bike. I don´t care so much about bike weight etc.

Anyone has experience on this and is willing to share ?

thanks so much


texts: Do I need a shock-proof watch for cycling?

texts:
I've just started cycling longer distances as a hobby (I cycle for my commute daily).

My watch isn't waterproof at all so I don't take it with me but on my last ride I found myself getting annoyed at regularly having to rummage in my bag for my phone to check what time it was.

I don't want a fancy GPS or sports watch that measures anything except time.

Obviously it would need to be waterproof enough for heavy rain (100m+? 30m?).

Would a simple digital (no moving parts to dislodge on a rough road) waterproof watch do the job or does it need to be shock proof (ie. G-Shock or similar) as well?


texts:
Our oldest son has been alternating between mine and my wife’s bike (Carreras from Halfords) whenever he has to go anywhere, but over the last week or so we noticed he had stopped using my bike, saying the other one was more comfortable.  I was moving the bikes into the shed last night and noticed that the stem cap and bolt (think that's they're called) are missing!!  Don't know what he did and I've not had a chance to talk to him about it yet.  Here is a picture of the bit I'm talking about:

Is this an easy part to source and is it difficult to fit correctly?  Am I better just taking the bike into Halfords and asking them to fix it (assuming they can)?

Update, I've got what I thought I needed and went to fit it today.  But it seems there's something else missing!  I've taken pictures, can anyone see what the issue might be:

Thanks Swifty, didn't notice I'd posted the wrong picture.  Here is a better one, it looks like there should be something inside the star.  The bold is just spinning.

Thanks

Alex


texts: Road fork, tire clearance for 700x28 tyre

texts:
I am building up a Litespeed T-5 with 46 (possibly 48)/34 Ultegra drivetrain for some spirited riding on undulating and sometimes uneven roadways in Northern New England. I'd like to have the ability to run 700x28 tires hassle free.

I'm planning, at least initially, to run 6800 Ultegra calipers and something along the lines of Vittoria Open Pave 700x28 tyres.

I've narrowed fork options to the following and would appreciate hearing from anyone with real world experience of any of these fine forks with such an application:

Moots
Litespeed
Seven Cycles

The bike has a tapered 44 mm headtube.


texts:
I'm thinking of giving up my heavy Trek mountain bike for a folding bike. Anyone made the move to folding bike regretted it? Why?

I'll be using it around town, shopping, etc. We have a small apartment without storage.


texts: What book should I read to learn how to maintain a bike?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Where to find good bicycle maintenance info?

What book should someone that can fix a puncture but who have never replaced bearings etc read to learn how to maintain a bike?


texts: What can women do to get comfortable in the saddle?

texts: I am fairly new to cycling and have a road bike which I am really enjoying but I cannot get comfortable in the saddle. Not so much bum bones, but lady bits! Any suggestions?


texts:
This question is bugging me for a very long time. Look at the picture below.

Notice the area I have denoted with red circles. What is that? Does it represent something? Maybe something like position! If it represents position, which one is the right one? Should I pedal with that part in front or back? Why is that part on only side and not the other?


texts: I am in the market for a mountain bike, and have been reading some mountain bike magazines for info.  They mention particular models as having particular "inches of travel".  What exactly does this mean and what is its importance?


texts: What is the difference between "front" and "rear" disc brake?

texts: When I browse on-line bike shops disc brakes are listed as "front" or "rear" e.g. here. I have never noticed any difference between front and rear brakes - disc or V-brake, hydraulic or mechanic. Except the cable/tube length(but moat brakes are sold without attached cable/oil tube). So what is the difference between a front and rear disc brake, if any?


texts: Can I put a 24x3 inch tire on a rim that is normally for a 24x 2 1/4 inch tire


texts: How do I calibrate my auto tension belt?

texts:
I have a Trek District IGH3 with a Mitsubishi belt drive that has an auto-tensioner. Last winter, the belt started slipping over the sprocket. It happened frequently enough that it ended up wearing the teeth of the sprocket right down, making the bike all but unusable until I got a replacement installed. Fast forward a year and I’ve got the same slipping starting.

The timing is coincidental, I believe. The weather isn’t all that different to account for a sudden change. What’s more likely is that when I recently replaced a flat tire, I didn’t set it all back together properly.

I have checked the adjustment of the wheel itself, the alignment of the gear cable, and tried to determine if anything was looser than normal. I also followed the directions in the IGH3 maintenance manual, but even tightening it as far as it’ll go didn’t seem to be enough to stop the occasional slip. Is there something I’m missing here?

Does anyone have any advice on how to properly tune an auto-tension belt?


texts:
I have a Repco Warrior 29, I recently twisted the front rim doing some stuff I probably shouldn't have been doing at my advanced age.

There are no 29 rims available here, but there are 26's. Has anyone tried putting a 26 on the front of a mountain bike (I don't care about the brakes problem). What are the disadvantages of doing so? (I don't ride offroad)

I am aware that handling will change, that goes without saying. What I want to know is how will the handling change. Specifically will having a lower front end have a detrimental impact on hill climbing. But also in general, if the bike for instance would become unstable or unsafe.


texts: How do I get my hydraulic disc brakes working well again

texts:
I just bought a new bike (my first brand new one ever) a few months ago and a while ago I decided to give it a wash and after that my front hydraulic brake hasn't been working as strong as it used too. I used to be able to lock it up on gravel with two fingers, now I can't get them to lock up at all even with all my strength.

(This is my bike) http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/mountain/sport/3_series/3900_disc/


texts: Scott Addict R2 2008 crankset replacement

texts:
I want to replace crankset on my Scott Addict R2 2008. Current crankset is Dura Ace 7800. If I looked correctly then currently I am using BB SM-BB71-41. New crankset will use BB386EVO.

Which BB do I need for this crankset? Probably BB for Pressfit BB386EVO?

Are there any other limitations (frame, ...)? Which BB is compatible with this frame and crankset?


texts:
I'm looking into building my own trailer and I want something similar to Burley's push button wheel system.

My question is, where do I obtain similar wheels/axles?

Here is the Travoy, one of their trailers that uses such a wheel:
https://www.amazon.com/Burley-Design-Travoy-Commuter-Trailer/dp/B0038LPO5Y

Replacement ones sold by Burley are pricey, anyone else have any luck looking for a similar product?
https://www.bikeparts.com/BPC417920/burley-replacement-wheel-16%22-alloy-push-button-axle


texts: Removing the return spring of a rear derailleur

texts:
I am trying to turn my standard shifting bicycle into an automatic shifter using a motor to increase and decrease the tension in the shifter cable. The problem is that a lot of torque is required to do this, so I was considering cutting the return spring off.

I know this is permanent, so I want to make sure that I am doing the right thing before making the cut. I am planning on installing a spring with a much lower spring constant on the cable itself (see image).

This is another thread with a similar topic. Móż suggested cutting this spring.

(Automatic Bike Project) amount of torque required to change gears?

I am really new to bicycle engineering, so please excuse my lack of knowledge on the topic.


texts:
Bought a Trek Allant for cycling to work (ca 10 miles). Now, after exact 512 miles the chain is worn out and starts damaging the cassette and chainset. Cheap crap material!
Is there anything out there that will last a bit longer? - SRAM-7 chain?
Or shall I look out for an offer for a 8-gear set and change?

Thanks in advance.

Response to comments below:

Many thanks for your replies. I bought the Trek Allant brand new (2011) and I am using the bike for daily commuting to work, tarmac all the way. Most of it is flat apart from a bridge that has two 'medium steep' slopes. I clean the bike (incl chain) every two weeks and also give it a 'health check'. The chain gets lubricated with PTFE. I used the chain wear indicator (park tool) to check the chain and it's well over .75%. In addition the chain cassette shows signs of wear too. My cycle style is 'higher strokes' in a lower gear. I cycle for years and also have a Cannondale T1000 Touring bike that I bought back in the 90s. With that I do about 800-1200 miles on vacation, and have to change chains about once every two years.

I expect the parts used on the Allant being of somewhat lower quality than those of a high-end bike, but I was just very surprised that the chain life is that short. Apart from the hassle of changing, the price for a 7-gear SRAM chain and cassette comes to a total of ~$30 (together) here in the UK. I may build up some stock ;)

Thanks again for your comments.


texts:
I have some Fox Float 32 Evolution 140mm travel forks on my 2015 giant trance. I ride very aggressively and it's a bumpy ride down a lot of the tracks I do. Keep in mind I do technical tracks, over roots, drops etc.
Today I rode a bike with 150mm pikes and I didn't feel a thing at all.
I'm wondering if getting kashima coat on my forks would:
1. Make them less bumpy (smoother)?
2. How much would it cost?
3. Would it just be more worth saving up for some pikes?

Feel free to ask questions! Cheers


texts: Is it safe to remove "lawyer tabs" on a carbon fork?

texts: Is it safe to file off the "lawyer lips" - the little tabs on the end of the fork dropouts - on my carbon road fork? What about cyclocross forks?  I've heard it's "common sense" to remove them...


texts: Does 1.2cm of additional frame stack make a large difference to the ride of a bike?

texts: I don't like the amount of handlebar drop on my current road bike. I am looking at a new bike that has an additional 1.2cm of frame stack (height). Would this 1.2cm make much difference in the ride of the bike?


texts:
I'm trying to locate a creak when I pedal uphill.

Tightened chainring bolts and rear derailer hanger. I don't see much to do with the bottom bracket (sram xx1). Pedals are tight. Chain, cassette, and rear hub are new.

It sounds like it's coming from the bottom bracket but everything sounds like it's coming from there.

What could it be?

2015 Mondraker Foxy carbon

edit: It's not the bottom bracket or the chainring or the wheels. I can reproduce it by pushing the suspension. I have no idea what to do with the linkages though.


texts: Freewheel threading on Miche flip-flop hub

texts:
I'm currently building a parts list for a new single-speed bike. In the process, I came across a nice looking flip-flop hub from Miche: The "Primato Pista/Strada"

I figured that adding the fixed sprocket is best done using a dedicated Miche carrier. However, for the freewheel sprocket, I'm confused. I read about Italian, ISO and British threadings, all being approx. 35x24 tpi. On the referenced website though, it states that the freewheel is 36x24 tpi, which seems too large for regular freewheel sprockets. I couldn't find any suitable sprockets online.

Is it possible to just use regular Italian freewheel sprockets on that hub (as for the fixed sprocket)? If not, where can I find suitable freewheel sprockets?


texts: Will a 9-speed Tiagra shifter work with a 9-speed cassette and a 10-speed Ultegra derailleur?

texts: My son's race bike currently has a mixture of components... A 9-speed 14-25 cassette (juniors race cassette), Tiagra shifters, 105 rear derailleur, Tiagra triple front derailleur and Tiagra triple crankset.  He would like to upgrade to an Ultegra derailleur, compact crankset,and brakes that he can get used.  Will the Ultegra derailleurs and brakes work with the Tiagra shifters?  He will be sticking with the 9-speed cassette, so I suspect the rear shouldn't be an issue.  Any insights would be much appreciated!


texts:
I have a trike with Shimano shifters. There are 3 gears in the front and 8 gears in the back. Gears are changed by rotating wheels found on each handlebar. The gear shifters have a window telling me which gear it is set to.

When the chain is on the largest-sized gear in the front, the sifter says "3". When it is on the smallest-sized gear, it says "1".

But the opposite is true of the back gears. When the chain is on the largest gear in the back, the shifter says "1". And when it is on the smallest gear in the back, it says, "8".

Are my gears setup the wrong way?


texts:
I have a disc rotor alignment question you maybe can help me with.

I have a Canyon Nerve AL+ 8.0 that's been working nice until the front wheel got stuck on the brake. First I thought it was a brake issue but now I'm not so sure. When I inspected the wheel placement it looks as if the wheel is misaligned on the "hub tube". I took a few photos to illustrate the potential problem. But can only post two of them here (2 link limit, not enough reputation).

This is how the caliper aligns with the socket when on the rotor. Not very well at all.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5FF9BFDF1E0E64EB%2120369
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5FF9BFDF1E0E64EB%2120370

The brake worked fine for a year then all of the sudden the front wheel got stuck. If I attach the caliper to the socket the right pad presses firmly against the disc rotor. It looks as if the whole hub has moved a few mm to the right on the "tube". The wheel is not centered in the front fork. The rear wheel IS centered.

Is the front wheel supposed to be centered. If so can I fix the hub alignment myself?


texts: Is SLX FD 675-B front derailleur appropriate for my bike?

texts:
It seems I've made a few 'tiny' errors when choosing components to upgrade my bike. The biggest issues I'm facing at the moment are crankset and front derailleur...

Bike is Eyble Psych 4 Black Edition (full suspension, 26" wheels) and I'm upgrading various (all) Shimano components to SLX. Because I'm not very familiar with all aspects of MTB geometry and compatibility of parts - I've put myself into weird position.

I've chosen M677 crankset (2x10, 22-36t) which (if I get things right) dictates position/hight of front derailleur (SLX 765-B, 2x10, clamp type). I've installed FD provisionally and found out that it sit quite low on seat tube (seat tube is with top pull cable routing). FD clamp is almost touching the joint of seat tube, downtube and chainstays (which are asymmetric) and it could interfere with movement of rear end of bike. (I didn't put chain yet and I tried to compress rear shock all the way - and I didn't notice that FD is hitting anything.)

Anyway, I'm worried if this setup is right and should I continue installing other parts? If this is horribly wrong - what are my options regarding another FD (please recommend proper FD type) or (preferably not) changing other components?

PS. I know I should have informed myself better before buying things :D


texts:
Background
I've had my bike for several years and it's been fine with moderate use, but this summer, I ended up using it a lot (I rode almost 200km in less than three weeks).
Problem
It started squeaking pretty badly, so I sprayed some lubricant around all of the joints (pedal, crank-arm, etc.) then took it out for a spin. On that very first ride after the lube, the left crank-arm nearly fell off; I though the pedal broke, but when I stopped and checked, the nut had come loose. I managed to use my keys to tighten the nut and repeat every block or two until I got home.
Attempted fix
At home, I used a 14mm socket wrench to tighten the nut, but it keeps coming loose. I've resorted to carrying the socket-wrench with me when I ride and stopping to tighten it about ever kilometer.
Research
I've read some stuff about the holes in the crank-arm wearing out and worn nuts and how Loctite isn't a solution and such, but none of them mentioned lubrication. My issue started immediately after I lubricated the area around the nut, so logic would dictate that it allowed the nut to slip. I've included a photo (fig.1) of the crank-arm hole and nut. To my eye, the hole doesn't look worn (I assume the bulging around the edges is intentional), but the catch-teeth on the nut do seem worn/flat.
Question
Anyway, I'm wondering if lubrication is indeed the problem and if cleaning the lubrication off (and maybe applying a mild adhesive like Loctite or just hairspray) would suffice.
Appendicies
Figure 1: Crank-arm hole and nut


texts:
I've got an old Raleigh Winner (1980s 10 speed racer) which is perfect in almost every single way for what I need it for (I got given it free, it's very speedy and also looks cool).

However, the brakes are dodgy to say the least. I had to take the rear brake off entirely the other week as the bit that holds the cable in the brake lever fell off (mildly alarming as I was trying to stop at the time!). I haven't replaced it yet as it was basically useless before, should I bother?

In the dry, the front brake is incredibly squeaky but very effective (I adjusted the toe the other week?) In the wet though, it just won't stop and it's bloody frightening! I think the brakes might be cantilevers (they've got two wire spring things on pivoting arms) but they're so useless in the wet! Admittedly, I think the brake blocks are probably as old as the bike, but why are they so bad in the wet compared to the dry? Freewheeling to a stop is nearly as effective (and when/if the brakes do eventually bite, they whole bike vibrates and judders, it's very odd)! The tyres seem to be fine as well.

Would some new brake blocks and/or cables solve the problem (the rims are steel, which apparently makes a difference)? I'm a student so I'm hardly drowning in the dolla and also a bike n00b so I'm not great on the technicalities. What should I do?

Cheers.


texts: Difference between Shimano GRX400 and SRAM Apex

texts:
I'm currently interested in a gravel bike and am in the process of mapping out my options. One parameter that is very obvious is that some models come with Shimano's GRX400 groupset and some with SRAM's Apex.

Interestingly, while not gravel-specific and if the internet is to be believed, being roughly equivalent to Tiagra, Apex seems slightly more expensive.

What am I missing in my comparison?


texts: Options for what to do if the star nut is spinning?

texts:
I've been working on getting my mirrors to sit still when riding.  They screw into a rubber block that presses out against the inside of the handlebars which backs off over time.
So I bought some small star nuts and they seemed perfect for this purpose.
from https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/headset_spares/tartybikes_star_nut/c57p10541.html
Installation went fine, using a suitable sacrificial bolt and some firm taps with the hammer.  BUT on tightening the bolt, I felt the tension drop, and felt and heard grinding noises from inside.
Turns out the whole star nut was spinning like a blade inside the bars, cutting a slot and producing aluminium flakes.
What are my options for saving this?  The bolt won't back out, and there's not enough space to get something in and hold the starnut.


texts:
I saw this bike on some Instagram account I follow. Can someone tell me the name of it because I can’t seem to find it anywhere?

enter image description here


texts: Difference between "Track Frame set" and a "TimeTrial/Triathalon frame set"

texts:
I am going to make a custom fixie bike (possibly with a front brake) that I will use to race on tracks and even commute with.

I have been looking at a Planet X frame, and they seem to have very high quality frames for decent prices.  But I am not sure if I should get the track frame or the time trial frame.  What are the differences between these style of frames?  The time trial frame is $150 more than the track frame, is it actually that much better?

I am going to put time trial handlebars on the bike.  I also plan to use a belt instead of a chain to cut down on weight and maintenance.


texts: Is it typical for the front and rear gear levers to be reversed?

texts:
I recently purchased my first bicycle since I was a kid. The bike I bought has individual gear levers for shifting up and down for both the front and rear gears. I thought it was odd that these levers are set up in such a way that shifting the lever with my thumb shifts up on the front and down on the rear gears.

Is this typical to all bikes with front and rear gear systems? Is there a way to change it?


texts:
I used to get a lot of punctures on my 22mm tires riding to work every day in boston. All of the punctures were from small pieces glass.

After a few weeks of almost weekly flats i got tuffy tire liners and now i no longer get flats.

Question:

Is there some other better solution then tire liners because they were really difficult to put in?


texts:
I just wanna know if I can take off one of the chainrings for this crankset before I buy it off craigslist. Thanks!!

enter image description here


texts:
Heading into the southern hemisphere spring I'm starting to contemplate another summer of having sweat running into my eyes and down my face.

I have a couple of lightweight headbands from Netti (that I can't find anymore) that have been reasonably good. They still get saturated on a long ride though and they're old enough that they're starting to smell.

There's an interesting thread here with some discussion around this area.

I've done some research and seen a couple of options:

Halo Headband

http://store.haloheadband.com/default.asp

Aside from the incredibly lame website they look like a reasonable option, with a fairly unobtrusive design and also the features to redirect sweat away from the eyes when they get saturated.

Sweat Gutr

http://www.sweatgutr.com/

This looks like it's very effective, but I'm not 100% sold on having all the sweat running down near my ears. Plus how would it fit with helmet and glasses?

Cotton Bandanna

The general opinion here appears to be that once it's wet, it's useless.


texts: Advice needed: cleaning / restoring parts on a vintage Peugeot

texts:
I've got a vintage Peugeot racer bicycle that's needs some restoration. It's in pretty decent condition given its age (1970-1980s), but a everything could probably do with a good clean and degrease and oil to get it looking really good again.

The frame isn't too dented or pitted which is good, it's the commonly worn parts that need some attention. Parts such as the crank, derailleur, rims, spokes etc that have the odd scuff, bit of rust or bits of metal that are looking pretty mucky and has lost their lovely metallic or mirror finish.  the stain less steel or to get the chrome looking shiny and mirrored again?

What would people recommend to start cleaning these things with? Any thing that's good for getting rid of all that muck and grime?


texts: How do I know I should replace the chain?

texts:
I have been riding a folding bike in the past. I have never replaced its chain.

Recently, I have bought a second handed road bike for $500. I am afraid of the chain breaking suddenly.

How do I know I should replace the chain in advance?


texts: The chain broke on my Huffy 26" Cranbrook Beach Cruiser. What chain do I buy? Size and speed? I think it's multi speed!


texts: Are replacement MTB tire studs compatible between brands

texts: I have a set of nokian gazza extreme studded tires, sometimes replacement studs can be difficult to come by at retail. Are the studs interchangable between brands typically or should I stick to only the studs sold by the same manufacturer as the tire?


texts: Is it normal for a bike to skid even after both brakes are applied?

texts:
When I apply both brakes going at moderate speed, it takes a few feet before the bike stops and I can hear the rear tire skidding.

The brake pad seems to be working fine since the wheels themselves quickly stop rotating, it's just that the bike continues to skid even when the tires are locked in place.

Is this normal behavior, and what can I do to improve the power/responsiveness of my brakes? Might it be a tire rubber issue?


texts: Why did the chain on my kid's bike slack after I changed his tire?

texts:
I changed the rear wheel on my child's bicycle today.  Once I was done and put it back together, the chain is inexplicably longer; there is a lot of slack.

How did this happen and how do I resolve it?

Edit: looking at the photo, I think I may have to move the rear axle backwards.

Edit x2: Photo of successful results, following my suspicions and Paparazzo's answer.


texts:
I am interested to know what differences there are between brands of women's cycling shoes, specifically, who makes shoes in larger or smaller sizes as well as who makes shoes for narrow feet or for wider feet.

I don't need product recommendations, rather an idea of which companies make shoes to fit different feet.


texts: Upgrading wheels on a vintage Peugeot Frame

texts:
OK so I have a Peugeot Galibier bike that consists of a Reynolds 301 steel frame.

A while back the original derailer gave up the ghost while riding, bending the rear-wheel spokes in the process. I was told it wasn't worth re-truing the rear wheel so I bought a cheapo Raleigh wheel from the LBS. I also bought a new 7-speed freewheel and Shimano derailer which I managed to install myself (using the original chain) and has been working great for about a year now.

The bike is nice to ride but I wouldn't mind upgrading the wheelset to a lighter and better set that would help with climbs and longer tours. I have in mind the Mavic Aksium.

I know this wheelset, along with many others use the modern dropout spacing of 130mm. I am pretty sure my bike is has 126mm spacing. Being a steel frame I am fairly confident i can just squeeze a 130mm wheel in there but my concern is the cassette size and chain.

I am under the impression that an 8-speed cassette uses a narrower chain. Would this work with my original crankset and friction shifters?
i would rather stick with a 7-speed. Is it possible to find a semi-decent road 7-speed shimano cassette to fit on a Mavic Aksium and still use the slightly wider chain?

Any advice greatly appreciated....

Edit: I have found this: http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-cs-hg-50-cassette-7-speed/aid:414549/?origin=pla&kw=&gclid=CIiLuvrpprQCFXHLtAod3jQAXQ

Would this fulfill my need?

Edit2: Some additional info:

My bike (not the best pic, sorry, it's just been taken up Boxhill): http://i.stack.imgur.com/3nrWw.jpg

(images not allowed yet? what?)

Wheels are definitely 700c - I know this having previously replaced the rear wheel and buying new tyres & tubes.
I would like to move away from the freewheel system to a freehub/cassette system. The idea is that I want to put a semi-decent set of road wheels on it. Mavic Aksium seems a good choice. This has a dropout spacing of 130mm. My bike has 126mm.
I would like to avoid cold-setting (bending) my rear dropout if I can. Sheldon says it should be possible but there may be a few issues.
Derailleur is modern so should hopefully take whatever chain is used.
Friction shifters mean no worries about indexing.
I would like to stick to a 7-speed cassette. Reasons: I doubt my shifters can do more than 7 (bike was originally a 6-speed); I assume this will help maintain chain compatibility between front chainrings and cassette. Am I wrong? Would the 7-speed cassette linked above need a spacer or would it just work out-the-box?

At the moment it seems like it should be OK. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and buy the wheelset and work to get it to fit....! Might help to borrow a friend's modern 700c 130mm hub wheel to see if that fits first though.


texts: Can having a valve too short cause punctures?

texts:
I recently got two punctures in two weeks on my rear wheel. I use the carrera tdf with the kenda tyres supplied. The inner tubes I used were both quite short at the valve to the point that I could only just pump it up with my hand pump.

I would tighten the lock nut so that the valve was secure but I noticed before doing this that as pressure was released from the tube the valve would sink deeper into the rims. I was worried that this sinking effect due to decreased pressure would cause the inner tube to rip next to the valve if secured with the lock nut.

Can anyone offer an answer?


texts: What is a "road" bike? Don't they all ride on a road?

texts: Trying to learn about bicycles.  I have heard the term "road" bike a lot.  What is the difference between a "road" bike and a regular bike?


texts: Will these dents make this aluminum bike frame unsafe


texts: What is a good method for constructing dirt jumps? Not massive jumps, just something more than a simple mound of dirt for a bit of fun. It's one thing to pile up the dirt, but there seems to be a bit of an art form to getting the surface smooth.


texts: How should the brakes on a child's bike be adjusted?

texts:
I picked up a child's bike from the recycling center - and I was going to give it to a financially strapped worker that I know.  The brakes could easily be adjusted to be quite a bit stronger - but I'm wondering if that's a good idea.  (It looks to be for someone aged 4-7.)

I don't know how feasible it is for a child to go over the handlebars, or if poor handling skills (well, compared to an adult) could cause them to crash with the "better" adjusted brake.  It would be understandable if someone so small wasn't very good at choosing a power on a tightly adjusted piece.

So, what should I do?  What do shops/stores usually do?


texts: Removing bike interfaces to reduce likelyhood of theft?

texts:
Is there a product out there that allows you to remove interfacing components? Like being able to remove your brake lever arm, shifter arms, pedals...etc etc easily and efficiently so it makes the get away process more troublesome for the thief? ... therefore it might deter them from taking your bike?

I'm aware of thieves just being able to pick up bikes, but if you also had two U-locks on a sturdy pole, I would assume that this would be much more troublesome for the average thief.

I guess this would be more troublesome for the user...


texts: Are granny gear chainrings supposed to have directed teeth (i.e., be non-flippable)?

texts:
I was replacing a worn-out 34-teeth chainring on my MTB crankset. In the course of the work, I detached the granny gear chainring (22-teeth).

Compared to the big chainring, which has all these ramps and non-regular teeth shapes designed to facilitate gear change, the small ring is completely flat. It looked completely symmetric to me, apart from apparent slight wear on one side of teeth caused by chain contact.

After I'd given it some thought, I flipped the granny chainring over so that another side of teeth was used to contact the chain. This is a regular practice with single-speed chainrings which are symmetric, and it is used to double their useful life span.

However, after I'd put everything else together and adjusted it, I took it for a test ride. Immediately I uncovered that shifting up from granny gear to big gear was now accompanied with chainsuck, as the chain managed to "stick" to the small ring all the way around its circumference. It happened in about nine of ten shift attempts.

No amount of tuning of the front derailleur helped to solve this problem. Now I start thinking whether my judgement about the granny chainring was wrong, and it is asymmetric and cannot be flipped over.

Another possibility for chain suck that I can imagine is that the new big chainring is actually smaller — it has 32 teeth. It is also possible that I installed that new ring incorrectly (should have rotated it 90 degrees relative to bolt holes); but then again, I cannot see how it matters as the smallest ring has no ramps which could be aligned against the big ring.

So what should I do? Flip the granny gear back, look for a bigger chainring, or rotate it?

The crankset is Truvativ X5, 22/34t. The derailleur is SRAM X5.


texts: Where can I get a basic toolkit for bicycle - Walmart etc?

texts: I want some basic things in toolkit (like oiling of chain, tightening of brakes etc). Where can I find them and how much does it usually cost? I want to buy one, so can you name the basic tools with their functions in layman's language?


texts: Replacing a Positron II with a modern gear shift

texts:
I was tinkering on an old Enik Roadbike (see here: Convert old road bike to comfortable commuter). Most of the parts were still working fine, but the Positron II was not in a good shape, so I bought a "new" one from ebay. This did work reasonably good for about a year now, but the bike was not moved too much during that time. Now again I'm having problems with the replaced Positron II.

While I was searching for a way to fix it, I found a few posts online where people were mentioning that the Positron is not a good derailleur and they woud recommand to replace it - but no recommendation of what a good replacement for the Positron II would be.

Is it possible to replace the Positron II with a more modern, reliable gaer shift?
What would be a good replacement for a reasonable price?
And how much efford would that be?


texts:
When riding with clipless pedals and road bike shoes is it possible that the legs work asymmetrically?

I biked for some years with normal shoes but I started with new pedals and shoes a month ago. It seems to me that now my right leg does more work than the left because with the shoe hooked into the pedal I now both push down and pull up with more effort than before. Is this possible?


texts:
I am looking to replace the crankset, cassette and chain on my commute bike as they have gone rusty.

Currently, it has Nexave T303 cranks on. I have not managed to find their official specs. On http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html they are listed as 47.5 chainline, 117.5 spindle (axle ?) length. (supplied by users)

Looking at replacements such as Shimano Altus FC-M311, they show chainline of 50mm, and axle length 123mm. I assume 2.5mm difference in chainline won't make a difference on shifting (given this is not a race bike).

Should I be concerned about axle length? Or should I just buy any cranks that fit square axle?


texts: I would like to buy a cheap bicycle in Germany. Is there any place to search for a used bicycle (like a market or an internet site)? I don't speak German so places where people might speak English are preferred.


texts:
Lately, after my normal wash & lube routine, I've been squirting a little Teflon lube into the bottom bracket hub. I do so without dissembling by inserting the lube straw into the hub crevice. Is this advisable or a bad idea?

From what I can tell it seems to help prevent creaking, but maybe that's in my head. For what its worth I commute and ride often and live in the PNW (read: wetter than usual conditions).


texts: Yet another stuck BB. Help me save my frame!

texts:
So I have two bikes and a year ago I went through the challenge of unscrewing a stuck BB. The solution was to put the tool in a vice and twist the frame around it.

Today I have an even more difficult challenge. My cheaper bike is now about 5 years old and has been through dust, mud and salty snow. The BB is rattling and needs to be changed. I tried.

The BB is obviously cheap, both cups being plastic. I used the proper tool, put an elongation bar on the wrench, followed the correct direction for unscrewing ... and ruined both of my cups. The wrench just cut through the plastic teeth of the cup.

My BB is of the following type:

What can I do? I tried drying the cups apart with a soldering iron - which cut through the plastic somehow. Can I inject something inside, that will melt the cups? Can I pour spirits and set it alight, without damaging my aluminum frame and the paint around?


texts: App to find the shortest route with the least amount of climbs?

texts: I want to go from point A to point B avoiding climbs, but also take the shortest route possible with the fewest climbs.  Does any mobile app exist that can find the shortest route and with the lowest sum-total amount of elevation change between two places?


texts: How does the geometry of cross bikes affect on-road handling?

texts:
I'm planning on getting a cyclocross bike for commuting because my road bike is suboptimal for riding in rain and snow. A bike shop employee told me that cross bikes have worse geometry for riding on the road. He said that if you forget you're riding a cross bike and lean through a corner, you'll wipe out. He credited this problem to the geometry, rims, and tires of cross bikes. Is the assertion of the bike shop employee true, or was he full of it?

What are the practical differences in handling between a cross bike and a road bike? What are the noticeable effects of cyclocross frame geometry?

Related questions: Can I use a cyclocross bike for regular road-biking purposes?, What is the difference between race/road and cx bikes?, Explaining the effects of frame geometries


texts: I have a 9 speed specialized sport comp road bike.  my chainrings are 50 x 34t and i wanted to possibly change them to a 53 x 39t to increase my speed. it has shimano cassette/components and a truvativ iso flow crank arm. my question is would most 53x39t chainrings match up with my crank? or would it be better just to get a whole new crankset?


texts: Sizing guide for road bikes vs mountain bikes

texts:
i usually take a 21 inch size in mountain bike, but I want to buy a road bike. I'm 6'2'' and have a 34 inch inner leg. How do the sizes translate from mountain bike to road bike?
Thanks


texts: Converting my bike to use quick release wheels

texts:
I have an activ folding bike designed by raleigh. I was wondering if I can swap the stock wheels for a wheel with a quick release? Or does the frame have to support it?

I also read I can use a quick release skewer but on their website it said that it's not suitable for bolt on hubs. How do I know if mine is a bolt on hub? It does look like it has a bolt going through it with a nut on either side.


texts:
Is there a way I can make my bolted-on accessories quick release?
I'm looking for something that allows quick removal & replacement of accessories like lights or screens that come with a hex bolt, philips head or similar fastener similar to the mount on this bell:
One possibility I thought of would be cutting a hole through the front of the bottom part of the plastic mount, a thumbscrew that could slide in & out of the hole and a washer or nut on the bottom to prevent the screw from slipping out of the hole unintentionally. I'm not sure how practical that would be though.


texts: What are the strengths and weaknesses of Rido saddles?

texts:
I've started riding more often now (big plus), and as a result am getting, ahem, saddle issues with my classic San Marco Rolls saddle. I'm an average build, 5' 8-9". The saddle issues are mainly chafing at the top of my legs, some more serious skin damage, and general soreness.

I've heard good things about Rido saddles. Specifically that they transfer the weight from the perineum to the assbones which are better built for weight distribution.

What are these saddles best and worst at? Are they good for particular types of riding, or riders with particular builds? Are they good for particular kinds of bikes? I ride a Batavus Pro Team road bike circa 1990 which is about right size for me.

Is there anything specific to this saddle that has to be taken into account, position of saddle fore and aft, angle of saddle, or position of handle-bar stem, etc?


texts: I'm gearing up for my first bike tour.  I have an old motobecane cross bike, I think it's a 2007.  I need more granny gears.  Right now I have a 9 speed 12-26.  I'm looking into the Shimano Ultegra 6800 stuff, and so far it seems affordable with great reviews.  My question is, I know I need the cassette, chain, derraileur & shifter.  Anything else?


texts: What's the purpose of the channel in the brake track of this rim?

texts:
What's the channel in the brake track of this rim for?  (I think it's in the brake track, anyway, and that the brake pad would cover it.)  I would have thought it better to have an unchanneled surface for better brake contact.

Note that rims have a channel on the inside for seating the tire bead, but here I'm talking about the one on the outside of the rim.


texts: Hydraulic disc brakes operating by themselves

texts:
When cycling up steep inclines on my mtb sometimes the rear disc brake comes on without me being anywhere near the brake lever. I can tell it's doing it as it's gradual and pedalling becomes difficult.
It seemed to have been solved when the fluid was drained and refilled. After a couple of months it's started doing it again.
Any ideas?


texts: What can I do to stop my front dérailleur rubbing against the crank arm?

texts:
I recently changed the crankset of my Cannondale Synapse 5 from the stock FSA Gosssamer crankset to a Rotor 3D24 crankset with power2max power meter. This was a bit of an iffy modification to make - the Cannondale frame has a BB30A bottom bracket with a 73mm shell width for 30mm spindles. However, the Rotor cranks are 24mm. I took the bike to my LBS and we eventually got everything to mount using some Wheels Manufacturing shims (BB30-UNIV).

However, there is a problem now - the front derailleur now rubs against the crank arm as the crank passes over the derailleur, causing a very annoying clicking noise. I can stop the rubbing by tightening the high limit screw in all the way, but now the derailleur itself rubs against the chain, and doesn't have that 1-2mm clearance that is recommended.

I have a bunch of spacers that came with the Wheels Manufacturing shims, and I've taken the crank off and installed some on the drive side. This has the effect of pushing both the crank arm and the chainrings out - so the clearance between the chainring and the crank arm is still constant and small.

Is using these spacers the right thing to be doing? I'm wondering if this is a chain line issue?

I am also considering getting http://kogelbearings.mysimplestore.com/products/cannondale-bb30a-24-for-rotor-cranks but I don't really see how that will solve my problem - it seems to be the distance between the crank arm and the chainring itself...


texts:
This is a dispute between myself, and my Insurance (Yellow Jersey). I crashed my Canyon Aeroad CF SLX, when I clipped the rear wheel of the rider in front of me as a result I fell onto my right side with my bike. I had a fractured top tube as a result, which happen to have been caused by the right brake hood lever. According to report produce by my Insurance (YJ) mechanics this has been classified as incident related, but there's also a fracture on the steerer tube which they are claiming to have been caused by over tightening of the stem bolts. My bike has been inspected by Canyon and they have confirm that this is due to my crash. But Yellow Jersey are refusing to listen to Canyon, ignore all my reports that I have provided to them.

Please I need help, legal means of fighting YJ, any experience if any might have encounter similar situation on a Carbon bike or Insurance that refusing to settle.

They want to repair my frame and leave my bike with damage fork and have this return to me like that. I have took my case to Financial Ombudsman. This Insurance company are worthless and the people that works their are complete muron. I produce 10 pages of analytical facts, they still won't even read, let alone reason with me. Their mechanic are claiming the damage is not incident related, claiming to be as a result of over tightening of a bike that's less than a year old.

I have argue that no way bolts would have cracked the steerer tube when there's a plate in between them which on has a dent from the cracks that is coming from tube. Nothing is extruded out of the plate or damage or no screw indentation mark on either side of the plate..... Carbon Bike Repair at Leatherhead making me sick, plus the worst Insurance ever.


texts:
I've got a Park PCS-10 repair stand, and just acquired my first carbon bike. Is there anything I should know about clamping either the frame or seatpost in the stand?

Being a few years old, the frame and seatpost are perfectly round and non-aero. Is it safe to clamp them in the stand? Do I need an adaptor? Or should I avoid clamping it in a stand entirely?

Thanks.


texts:
I have a square taper BB which has started squeaking.

When I took it out to see what size I have, when I was putting it back in I noticed that when I tighten it to a level which to me felt reasonable, the shaft became noticeably more difficult to turn.  I slackened off a bit (and still tight enough to ride just fine) and then it was OK.  The BB I have has not suffered any issues with slack cups, at least to my knowledge.  Though it has given up the ghost after maybe 600 miles.  Whether that's due to incorrect fit or poor quality I don't know - but it's some no-name cheapo.

The BB i have is 68x118mm.  I'm considering whether getting a 68x115mm might be a good idea given the above, or whether I should get the same size and go not to so tight.  What do you think?

Also, it looks like the Shimano UN55 is the only game in town - are those any good?  Is there a realistic alternative?  I haven't been able to find any brands in that price bracket that seem worth a try.

EDIT:  Looks like I left the most important info out - I didn't realise this was of relevance at the time of initial post  1.  The BB is a sealed cartridge type.  2.  The chainset is actually a Gates belt drive.  The belt tightening mechanism is through a split BB casing - i.e. the BB sits inside an eccentric alluminium case inside a split BB casing in the frame.  This allows me to move it left and right and so changing the BB size will not affect the chainline.  3.  I can't make out the existing BB make and so have no idea what the correct torque for it would be.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Is it worth buying a road bike or rather upgrade mountain bike?

texts:
So I am currently on the fence about my next bike, I have in the last year and a half taken up cycling more seriously. To give some background I mean I am probably doing around 50km (31 miles) a week. Bearing in mind that this is less now because it is winter here. When in summer when races start again I will probably be putting in longer distances when I can.
I would say most of my rides I stick to the dirt and I am looking to buy a pass to use the mountain trails around us, I really enjoy it when I can mountain bike. My one gripe is always having to clean my bike thoroughly because of how harsh the conditions are around me. In South Africa we can also cycle all year around so I thought I would add that as it might affect answers given.
My current bike is a real beginner bike, a GT Timberline Expert. I was given it as a beginner bike and I actually really enjoy riding it. I’ve gotten used to it’s quirks however after riding my dads mountain bike I know how much nicer a lighter bike can be with better components. I still have fun on mine however, I don’t think I’ve ever thought during a ride that I’m not having fun because it’s a beginner model.
I do however notice in road races even with slick tires on that it’s a struggle. Every year I enter the 109km (67mile) race we have in the area and during training and the race I can say it is not fun having to push hard to keep a good pace.
That’s where my problem comes in. I’m not sure whether to add a road bike to the mix and use it for interval training on the road and racing and continue to use my current mountain bike. Or do I upgrade my current mountain bike to a nice new one. I am concerned about how quickly a mountain bike gets wear and tear but I’m not really sure if that’s a real consideration even?
I’ve done some research and on the road bike side the best deal I’ve found was this: https://www.trekbikes.com/za/en_ZA/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/émonda/émonda-alr/émonda-alr-5/p/24166/ Good parts and not crazy priced. However for the same price I could get a mountain bike like this: https://www.specialized.com/za/en/mens-chisel-expert/p/154335 which is also a very nice bike.
What are your thoughts? I hope I haven’t bored you with too much background info? I know it’s a tricky question to ask too...
My current mtb also has not done tons of mileage so it can still go for quite a long time.


texts: How different it is to ride with same gear ratio with 26" and 28"

texts: Do you know how much of a difference it is to ride with specific gear ratio (example 48/16) with 28" wheels and 26" wheels?


texts: Using spacers on crank spindle instead of bottom bracket when fitting HollowTech MTB crank to road bb

texts:
HollowTech road BB is 68 mm wide and fits a road crank without spacers. Hollow tech mountain BB uses up to 3 x 2.5 mm spacers. Hence crank is designed to be used with 75.5 mm wide bottom bracket including the spacers.

Question is if there are issues using a crank with 7.5 mm spacers in a 68 mm (road) bottom bracket? Does it affect load on bearings? Does it affect tightening of the crank?

Use case is quick change from 2x compact road crankset to 1x MTB and back without need to touch to bottom bracket. Front derailleur is already known to work without problems in both combinations.


texts: Glycogen depletion, post-brief-ride recovery, and diet adjustment

texts:
On a mountain bike I had been working my way to minimize the time it takes me to do a 25-km round-trip.

Then on a road bike I have been trying to do the same for a 40-km round-trip.

My objective on both was to cycle one day, rest the next, then cycle again.

All was well for the 25 km ride. I didn't even need to take a water bottle. Drinking after the ride was enough. For the 40 km ride I was able to maintain the same skip-a-day rhythm as long as I was not pushing myself, though I needed to drink about 1 litre midway, at 20-25C (68-78F). Once I started to race against my preceding time, something went very wrong. After 48 hours I feel too lethargic to hop again on the bike. It doesn't even get better after 72, and barely after 96 hours. I need almost a week to have recovered enough to repeat.

After some searching, the best I've been able to understand is that my 48/72/96-hour lethargy approaching a state of sloth may be caused by glycogen depletion. On multi-day rides, cyclists ought basically gorge themselves before, during, and after with carbs, but I'm not doing multi-day rides.

Hence, I'm guessing, it was a mistake to continue eating the same carb-conscious diet. My calculation for eating steak-and-vegetables, chicken-and-huge-caesar, chickpeas-and-tomatoes at lunch/dinner was that the steak/chicken/chickpeas anyway have large carbohydrate content, in addition to protein, and so I can skip the side of rice/potatoes/pasta, being content that breakfast consists mainly of carbs—bread/oatmeal/..

I was about to experiment with the following classical diet. Eat a (large) plate of pasta 2-3 hours before the ride; eat some more carbs during the ride (2 croissants); then eat protein and vegetables after the ride. The carbs before/during the ride satisfy the needs of the ride, and the protein contributes to muscle repair after the ride.

But this traditional thinking has "largely fallen out of favor as it can also lead to excess water weight and digestive issues."

I realize (I'll soon be patronized and) that 40km is little more than a warm-up for the serious folks. There are several ideas already posted here for longer rides: Gorge on slow carbs post ride, replenish with fast sugars during the ride, snack mid-ride on boiled potatoes + oil + salt; and only one that I could spot for short ones: don't just drink water, drink gatorade. In terms of taste, If find this combination particularly appealing. But rather than experiment on myself over much of the season, I thought I'd ask.

If cycling is seasonal in your area (it's too cold to cycle outside October-to-early-March in my area, and I get bored on a stationary bike after 15 minutes, so I switch to squash and skiing in winter), have you nailed down how to adjust your diet to recover as soon as possible, perhaps even after one day not two?


texts: Gear Inches Optimal For Steep Hill Climbs

texts:
As I've gotten more into road biking, I've realized I really like climbing mountains.  These climbs vary between 6-15% gradient usually and go for anywhere between 5-20 miles.  I am wondering if I have the optimal gears for this type of cycling.  I have 50, 32 teeth for my big ring, and 11-28 (10 total) on my back cassette.  According to sheldon brown this below is the range of my gear inches:

I'm 27 and fairly fit with no health problems, how do you determine whether to get stronger or get a higher gear?


texts: Does frame size inside a particular model affect the ride characteristics of the bike?

texts:
I read an article stating
that the smallest of a particular model of bicycle doesn't fully reflect the original design concept of the model
when I was about to buy the smallest (430mm seat tube) of Pinarello FPUNO carbon.
Is it true ?