texts: Titanium fork vs suspension on gravel bikes

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I am contemplating buying a gravel bike and wonder whether a titanium bike with titanium fork is/can be "better" than a carbon bike with a suspension component. I don't intend to ride competitively, just do fun tours and possibly multi-day bikepacking. Efficiency still matters to me, as going fast or going far outside of races is fun too.
As an example, the Bearclaw Thunderhawk, when equipped with the titanium fork, supposedly dampens road vibrations just by flex of the fork+frame construction. Meanwhile, as an example for a "mainstream" carbon gravel bike, the Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon and its siblings have the "Future Shock" suspension built into the steerer tube.
How do these two concepts compare in regards to comfort and efficiency? I would guess the advantage of the Future Shock are:

FS probably dampens road vibration more, as it is a full-blown spring+dampener system
The FS is more efficient as it only deflects in the vertical direction, whereas the titanium fork might flex in more ways and therefore possibly impact efficiency
Since the "blades" of the titanium fork flex, it also suspends the bike, in contrast to the FS, which only suspends the rider, which is supposedly more efficient
Being able to adjust the FS on-the-fly by using the knob could improve efficiency on smooth surfaces

My guesses for disadvantages:

Less robust, shorter lived and more maintenance needed
The idea of taking a stiff carbon frame and bolting on the FS suspension sounds somewhat backward

Price is difficult to compare, as you have to compare whole bikes. Am I correct with the above assumptions? What are other factors when comparing titanium bikes/forks with carbon bikes in regards to flex/suspension?


texts: Front-derailleur bolt undoing: pliers and threadlocker

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When I unscrew the front derailleur bolt to adjust the cable (wrapping around B and C), the entire parallelogram rotates.

Part A: What is the appropriate way to unscrew the bolt?

Hold the parallelogram in place with a pair of pliers, or
Just rotate. The hinges in the front derailleur are designed to take the torque for removing/tightening the cable.

Part B: True or False: Since there is threadlocker applied to this bolt, there is no such a thing as a minor adjustment (unwind a little, set the cable right, wind back). The threadlocker must be re-applied, and so it's anyway necessary to first remove the bolt completely.

This is a sequel question.


texts: What is the maximum or minimum tire width I can fit on my bicycle

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We often get questions on bicycles.stackexchange about fitting wider or narrower tires to bicycles. We have a large number of these with answers suiting the specific bike or style of bicycle in question, but I have been unable to find one that provides a generic answer covering off all things that need to be considered. For most bicycles, the answer is the same regardless of the specific style and sizes of tires in question.

This is intended as a canonical question that we can point closed questions to.


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I'm doing a self contained touring trip, I have a 5 piece set of ortlieb bags (handlebars, 2 front rollers, 2 back rollers). I also plan on putting my tent on my back rack. I'm not doing this in a competitive manner. I'm just looking to have some fun on a 2 week tour.

Recently, in another thread, I became aware that "bulk" can be more of a concern than weight. I'm wondering a few things,

What exactly is bulk? Are we just talking aerodynamics?
How would one go about reducing bulk when using panniers?
Any tips for reducing bulk in general?
How important would you rank bulk compared to weight, comfort, etc. (given my parameters of prioritizing fun over serious competition)


texts: Strength training during structured sweet spot base phase training plan

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2 weeks ago, I started using trainerroad for structured turbo based training - it's going well but I'm keen to improve my top end power (10 second power or so), and from what I understand the best way of doing this is to use heavy weights and do squats and variations of squats.

Is there a good guideline for what workout I should do? I don't want to overdo it and compromise my gains from the base training plan I'm on.

Current TSS is 216. Each week tends to consist of 2 medium-ish 1hr sessions and 1 1hr30 session which is harder at the weekends.

My guess is I should just do a 20 minute weight workout every week, very heavy but not outrageous. Enough to make the legs really really burn but not so much I lose form.

I'm new to structured training on the bike so could do with some guidance.


texts: How much of the saddle rail is suiteable to use

texts: Is it possible to safely set the seat to the max to get the saddle as far forward as it will go. Or should it only be clamped within the marked range 0 to 3.5? I have marked the points in red. The reason I ask is because I don't want the saddle to tilt forward while riding if I have it set to max.


texts: Front derailleur is hard to shift into the big ring. Where to start?

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I have a shifting problem on a bike that has a crank with a triple set of chainrings.  The bike is a tandem.  I have to put a great deal of effort to get it to shift into the big ring.  Where should I start?  Is there a simple adjustment I should look at first or should just jump right to replacing cables and housing?

Vitals:
 * STI shifters
 * 2004 Shimano Tiagra
 * triple
 * tandem
 * probably same cables/housing from 2004.
 * bike has 4000 miles on it, maybe more


texts: Recommendations on best-value stock fixed gear model?

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I am looking for a decent fixed gear model. My whole cycling background is on Mountain Biking, so I don't want to build a fixie with spare parts or convert.
I am looking at some out of the box whole bikes, like Surly Steamroller (which I suspect is a bit heavy), GT Gutterball (which perhaps might be too attractive to thieves) and others (which might be to expensive).

My goal is to have a light (less than 20lb) steel beater which I can lock anywhere with no worries and forget about maintenance.

EDIT: My target price would be around $700 to $1000 brand new, which could give me a nicer used bike, or a cheaper semi-new bike.


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Hi I recently bought a Brodie hybrid bike from a local bike store for ~$600 and as I know nothing about bikes I just trusted their recommendation to buy it. However on the way home today I made a mistake and fell. I was right next to my garage when I fell so I wasn't going very fast, but now the front wheel is misaligned with the bike frame to the extent that it almost will not turn anymore.

I've only had this bike for one day and I know nothing about bikes so is it just expected that a light fall can render a bike useless or are the parts bad or is this an easily fixable problem or anything else? I know I could probably just return the bike for a free repair since I think it was covered in the warranty so if this is a problem with the bike itself should I be wary and try to exchange it for a new bike?

Thanks

EDIT: Sorry I realized I should've attached a photo. By misaligned I meant more like off center compared to the frame. When I looked at the handlebar alignment it seemed straight to me so sorry for the confusion.


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What is the best way to adjust the Look Keo pedals (mine are standard edition) so as to provide good grip, but with minimal wear on the cleats themselves? I use RED Keos.

Thanks


texts: Drilling and cutting rack mounting bracket arms

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I bought a rear rack so I can finally switch from backpack to pannier. My bicycle is 28" so I picked a rack that can cover 26-28" with "adjustable height screws".

Upon trying to mount it, I realized that the mounting bracket arms are too long for my frame.

Going back to the store and trying to replace the rack, the guy at the store tells me this is the norm and that I should just cut the arms to the length and drill the new holes for attaching them to the rack myself.

Since the part of the world I'm living in isn't exactly known for an amazing customer service, I just wanted to ask if it really is the norm or if the guy just blew me off, and I should go to the store again.

Thanks!


texts: How do I choose a replacement wheel rim?

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These are my current rims: Wheeltech TD26 by Alex Rims (can't find much info about these online).  I need to replace the rear wheel as it is cracked (cracks on the rims around a few spokes)
It's a 700C disc brake rim with quick releases.  What do I need to consider other than the size of the wheel when choosing a replacement?  I'll likely migrate over the cassette and rotor (if need be).  My knowledge of rims is limited so any help is appreciated!

Here is my bike: https://www.bikes.com/en/bikes/whistler/2015 (Must select Whistler 70 when on the site)


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I'm shopping for a new road bike, probably a Cannondale Synapse or a SuperSix Evo Carbon. Since this is around the time the new models for 2017 are going to come in, shouldn't this be the time when I'll be able to get the 2016 ones lower than retail prices? All the LBS I've looked at are carrying these at full retail prices.

Is there an ideal time to shop for bikes to get them at bargain prices? Are there any other tips to get Bikes at a reasonably lower price than full retail price?


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What do you recommend as an optimal point and orientation for mounting a rear-view mirror? I'm open to handlebar-, glasses-, or helmet-mounted.

Some of the considerations, as I understand it, are:

Ease of mounting.
View provided.
Vibration.
Likelihood of breaking.
Robustness for repeated off and on (for glasses-mounted).

I've got a hybrid bike with flat handlebars.

I'd also welcome specific product recommendations and recommendations about other aspects to look for in a mirror.


texts: Could my rim be just a little too small?

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I have a recurring flat problem in my rear tire.  I can never find the obvious cause and it does not always occur in the same position on the tube.  My rim is a replacement and may be the root cause.  I have noted for some time that putting a repaired tube with outer tire back on the rim is ridiculously easy.  I do not need tire levers; my fingers will do.  Indeed, it practically a finger tip job!

I believe that putting a tire back on my original rim was not so easy; that I really did need a tire lever.  But it is so long ago that I am not sure my memory is accurate and that I am not confusing my front and back tire repairs.

So my question to others is simply whether this is plausible and whether most cyclists can expect a little resistance when they try to replace a tire on its rim.


texts: How can I find inexpensive salvage repair (frame) parts?

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I've got a 2008 or 2009 Titus X. I cracked one of the struts (probably the wrong term) in the rear suspension triangle.

I'm hoping I can find a salvage part (still waiting to see how expensive a new part will be if it's not covered under warranty).

My first thought is Ebay but I thought there might be better places. Is there such a thing as a "junkyard for bikes" by mail? How can I find where to look for salvage repair parts?


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I'm asking this question (see the title) because I wasted so much time/energy (after having a punctured tube) trying to remove the tire and to put it again, while the guys I see on Youtube don't seem to face the same difficulty when replacing a tube.
And at the end, when the tire & the new tube were in place on the rim, the tube started leaking air again.

The tire in question is clearly worn from the outside even though from the inside there is no visible hole.
Do you think if I replace the tire, I wouldn't have a hard time again to stretch the tire on the rim when I have to replace the tube?

P.S: The wheel is a 700x32C (Continental City Ride).


texts: Are all Shimano 10 speed cassettes compatible with each other?

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I am trying to buy a cassette for my new incoming carbon wheels so that I just switch them with my current wheeyl whenever I need to race/crit without the need to retune the shifter and derailleur.
I was wondering if a Tiagra HG-500 12-28t (10 speed) would be compatible with my current Tiagra CS-4600 (12-28t) 10 speed?  For a reason, it is really hard to find CS-4600. Thanks!


texts: I just bought this Peugeot and having a hard time finding out what year and model it is. Can you please assist and help me. I think the third pic is the serial number: Y71241711.


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I purchased this 75-80 road bike (my first), for about $80. Being in a bad shape and no decals… I want to restore and enjoy it.

Been trying to ID it several days now in order to start a restoration project and know exactly how to do it.

The frame looks french, components are Mafac Racer, Simplex derailleurs, Millard M M Atom quick release, Normandy hubs, Belleri handle bar, etc.

Here is a link to a forum I'm active and where there a re lots of details and observations about this bike - https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-bicycles-whats-worth-appraisals/1175248-can-you-help-me-id-ing-bike.html

For now, it appears that this frame belongs to a manufacturer called Liberia of Grenoble.
Still, I'm not ruling out others like Motobecane, Gitane or St Etienne.

Can you guys help me ID it?


texts: What are the most basic parts of a bicycle which cannot be upgraded over a period of time?

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After reading this question: Cheap MTB with future upgrades v/s costly fully ready MTB, I myself had a question.
What are the most fundamental parts of a bicycle? What are the things which we have to look for in a bicycle prior to buying which needs to/can be changed over a period of time but cannot be upgraded? I know we can change derailers, drivetrains, and stuff but is there a part in a Bicycle that cannot be changed/upgraded over a period of time?
I am not the best to phrase a question so to further explain my question, I'll try to provide few examples.
Example #1: There are two cycles - Cycle A's frame is made of Steel and Cycle B's frame is made of Aluminium. We know that frames made of Aluminum are generally stiffer than steel which saves few fractions of a second count. Let's say I bought a Steel Framed Bicycle and want to make it more track-oriented and save a few microseconds off. I cannot have a stiffer frame because I cannot upgrade the material of the frame. If only someone would have told me that I should have invested more on a bicycle which had an Aluminium frame because I cannot change it.
Example #2: I want to install a larger size of rims from 26" to 27.5" because Larger wheels hold more speed than smaller wheels due to rotational inertia and more grip because the larger wheel has more rubber touching the ground. Let's say my suspension is not allowing me to fit the larger wheels which would not allow me to harness the advantage of more speed and grip. If only someone told me to get a cycle with bigger wheels.
Example #3: I want to upgrade the derailer from 24 to 27. I know it's possible, thanks to Bicycle Stack Exchange, I got good guidance for the upgrade and got lucky with the fact that my cycle allowed me to upgrade the derailer. If my cycle didn't have space for a 27-speed crank then it would not have been possible for me to upgrade. Let's say I bought a 21-speed bicycle because it's cheaper then I mostly wouldn't have had any space for a 27-speed crank or even a 24. I would have been stuck with my 21-speed until I buy a new cycle.
I am so sorry if you find these examples very silly. I made up these examples and personally I don't have both the issues. My bicycle is made of Aluminium, has space for a 27.5" upgrade and has a newly upgraded 27-speed derailer, crank, and shifters but I am a noob when it comes to cycling and who genuinely wants to ask this question. Are there any other factors such as these which I should consider before buying a new cycle so that I won't regret it?
I am trying to curate a list of these factors from your expertise which needs to be considered before buying a bicycle to prevent anyone from making a mistake that cannot be rectified in the future. I know I did a bad job explaining the question so edits are happily welcomed.


texts: Chain slipping on 10 speed Deore XT with new cassette, new chain and new chainrings

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The bike is about 10 years old with an average 30KM per week on it so roughly 15,000KM
It is a 3 * 10 speed Deore XT and it has performed great up until recently when my chain broke (bought a Park tool to make sure to check on chain wear).
I have an issue with my chain slipping while staying in the same cog. When my chain broke, I have replaced the cassette and I have also replaced the two larger chainrings. The chain was shortened to the same number of links as the last chain. The larger of the new BBB chainrings has 2 more teeth than the original Shimano and the middle BBB chainring is the same size.
What happens is that if I use the smaller cogs on my cassette, the chain appears to slip almost as if it is skipping some of the teeth on the chain. This happens on all 3 front chainrings but more with the middle and the larger one. The slipping is less likely 5 cogs in from the smallest (fastest) cog and more frequent when on the smallest cog in the cassette. On 6th cog or larger I haven't had it happen.
It is not a loud noise and almost sounds a bit like a change of gears (withouth it moving left or right), however after today's ride I noticed some metalic particles that the chain is picking up so it is definately adversely affecting the casette.
It happens while under very little pressure while going down a hill and it also happens when there is a bit of pressure on it. I haven't found it to be as much of an issue under heavy load. Unfortunatley it is not persisting all the time. I can get 4-5KM without it having any issues and other times, I can't use 4th smallest cog even without it skipping every couple of rotations of my crank.
Also, a few weeks ago, I noticed that my deraileur bolts fastening it to the frame were very loose before this happened and I have tightened it to ensure that it is consistent. I was amazed that everything worked as well as it did with one of the bolts being very loose.
I have adjusted the gear lever so the deraileur is perfectly aligned with the cassette cogs.
Any suggestions on what this could be?
My guess is the deraileur might be worn or the springs might have weakened. Could it be a link in the chain?


texts: I have a road bike that have just enough clearance for 700x28c (continental pro4 endurance 28c). Obviously, this is not the best bike for winter conditions, but what are my best options for tackling ice and snow with that bike?


texts: Inconsistent headset tightness and squeaking

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I own a Trek 1.5 road bike, purchased new around June 2012. The headset (original, never replaced) has recently been experiencing some interesting issues:

About 4 weeks ago, the headset began squeaking much more than normal and became stiff to the point that turning the front wheel was very difficult. Wrenching it from side to side would free it for a little while, but then it would resume the behavior fairly quickly (10 minutes of riding or less). I took in in to my LBS, they said "huh, odd," checked alignment, lubricated it, and said I ought to be good to go.

Things worked well for about two weeks of light riding, but then the behavior resumed- first the headset started squeaking more, then the steering stiffness returned. After turning the front wheel side-to-side for a little bit, the stiffness left and was replaced by a very loose feel. This loose feel and non-squeaking behavior stuck around for about 10 days, and then a few days ago, the headset started tightening up again and squeaking very obviously.

I'm interested in potential explanations for the symptoms observed and potential fixes. The reason I'm coming here first is because I'd like to have some more information before going in to the bike store for the second time- I'm after a permanent fix, not just a check/lube/out the door. My guess is that something's wrong with the bearing unit inside, but I'm not sure.


texts: Can i fit a 6 speed wheel onto a 5 speed bike?

texts: I have a 5-speed bike with a buckled back wheel. I have found one on the internet cheap, but it is a 6-speed wheel. Will it fit my bike? Will there be any adaptations needed to the bike to use this wheel?


texts: Where can I find a compact/ultra 7 speed freewheel?

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Does anyone still make these?

I'm aware that I could coldset my frame for a wider spacing, but I'm interested to know if it's still possible to buy a compact freewheel (apart from via e-bay or another 2nd hand route).


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New to all of this, so I don't really know the terms. Bear with me.

Got a bike from a garage sale about a year ago, in nearly brand new shape, haven't really rode it.

Over the past few months I've been using it quite often, biking roughly 8km to and from work.

Yesterday, the chain was skipping, and then later fell off of the largest front gear, to the right. Since then, if I put a heavy load on the pedals, such as biking uphill, or attempting to accelerate really quickly, it will fall off.

I've looked into fixing the front derailleur, and played around with the two unlabeled screws out front, but had no luck.

The chain still falls off due to heavy load, regardless of the position of the screws adjusting the front derailleur.

Unfortunately, I an not too sure if my front derailleur is properly "calibrated", and was debating on playing with it until the chain maybe fell off less? I seem to have gone through a bunch of options with no luck.

I'm assuming that the front derailleur isn't he problem, or that I should keep adjusting it until the problem stops.

In conclusion, I am not too sure what to do. Do I seek a new problem, or do I continue adjusting the front derailleur?


texts: what benefits do tubeless tyres bring to a 29er trail mtb?

texts: I have a 2014 Whyte T-129s and am considering converting the tires to tubeless. They are already 'tubeless compatible', so this should not be prohibitively expensive, but I am wondering whether this will really result in a better performance?


texts: Is there such a thing as 'eBike specific' freewheel?

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I've recently had the LBS replace the freewheel on my eBike after 500 ish miles of riding.  The sprockets were not worn out, instead the freewheel bearing (not the hub bearing) had become loose.  It looked like this was due to the bearing cup loosening on it's thread.  My attempts to tighten it were futile, the LBS appeared unwilling to even attempt to do so, rather assuming that it was due to a low quality part.

They also claimed that it might be because it was not an eBike specific freewheel.  Does such a thing even exist?  If it does, what about an eBike makes such a thing necessary?

I challenged the LBS on that claim.  They say the freewheel sees additional load.  For a mid drive eBike that might make sense, but for a hub drive I don't see how that's possible.


texts:
My 2014 Norco storm 9.2 has a problem - whenever I am in a higher gear and standing up it tends to click and try to jump gears.

When I am sitting down it does not do this. It only happens when I stand.

Do you have any suggestions to help me?


texts: chain / cassette / chainrings replacement ratios - how often to you usually replace cassettes & chainrings per number of replaced chains?

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I'm looking to get other riders experiences with how often cassettes and chainrings usually have to be replaced per the number of chain replacements.  On my 2 road bikes I usually find roughly the following:

1 cassette replacement per 3 or 4 chains

1 chainring set (both inner and outer) replacement per 5 or 6 chains

Is this is about what would be typically expected?

P.S. Yes, I understand cassettes and chainrings should be inspected for wear rather than replaced based on the corresponding number of chains.  Of course I check cassettes and chainrings for wear before replacement, but I'm still curious as to how often other riders are replacing cassettes and chainrings in comparison to chains.


texts: How can one stop brakes from screeching?

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I'm hearing that annoying sound when you use your brakes and you get the chills from the screeching sound.

I have disk brakes and a relatively new bike.

It happens to be front tire shown below.  I checked for contaminant and none exists.


texts: How Can I Prevent Slime Barrel Pumps from Clogging?

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I work at a bike shop that Slimes tubes.  We have both pre-filled Slime tubes as well as a keg of Slime that we use to fill tubes on customer request.  Unfortunately the tube connected to the pump for the keg of slime seems to clog on a regular basis.  So much so that we've had it clog multiple times within the day.

Does anyone have a recommendation for preventing this?  Any special secrets as far as diluting the material or positioning/modifying the apparatus for the Slime keg?


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My back wheel on my Giant ATX 2 2019 is wobbly, so I am trying to adjust it. I saw many videos on how to do this. For example, but none of them feature the type of hub that I have. It seems like an axle and skewer in one part (see photos below)
My question is: how to adjust this particular type of hub? Also, what is this type of hub called?

this is how the wheel looks like without the axle:


texts: What would be the best bike frame to build a gravel bike?

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This handsome devil road bike is what im kinda looking for but i want some suggestions of what is the next best thing to start with, any ideas?

I was looking for a good bike or bike frame that i can use to build up my own "gravel bike". I have gotten recommendations to use a older touring bike frame with the tire space or an older hybrid bike. I have found one good bike but i have lots of options of used frames that i would rather choose from.


texts: Magura Vyron dropper seatpost internal shaft can be easily twisted

texts: I had a very light crash (in fact just rode into a bush) after which I noticed I twisted magura vyron seat post. Apparently my seat post clamp was too tight.. Now it can be twisted when some force is applied which seems to be dangerous, of course. Is there something I can do myself or I have to send it to service?


texts: Rear derailer shifts fully only in middle of cassette and loses alignment with cogs over time

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I didn't even realise it, but I had been using the double shift Rapidfire feature on shimano's mtb sti's to move the chain only once up the cassette. Thats two clicks for one change. Its only when I got fed up with having to 'upshift' once to bring it to proper alignment with the desired gear, I decided to tinker.

That's when I spent about an hour trying to get it to shift properly with the barrel adjuster and it just wouldn't.

After thinking about it, it is clear that the right shifter only pulls enough cable on the smalest one or two cogs. I had naturally learnt to use two lever clicks.

Some things:
-I have got a new cable that I bent a few places when I installed it, and ok outers. As the upshifting is fine, im ruling that out.
-its all 7 speed, from experience right hand shifters always break down. Specifically, m095 xt sti, lx m560 rd, new hg41 cassette/chain. I have changed the rd with identical results.

Service the shifter or do I need to set the cable up in a specific order?


texts: It makes sense that ideally a wheel should be dished well (close to centered), but what are the consequences of a wheel being out of dish but otherwise true?


texts:
Here's a question simple at face value but for the math nerds feel free to dig in. Do all ratios of similar proportion (eg. 1:1, 1.5:1) etc feel the same. As in require the same work? Is the bottom end of a 2x (52/34 x 11-34)
Exactly the same as a 1x (42 x11-42)?


texts: Bottom bracket too tight to screw in by hand

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I'm trying to install a new bottom bracket (BB-UN55, BSA) into a new aluminum frame. Trying to screw them in by hand only allows me to go a few threads deep. On the non-drive side cup there is some thread locker that could explain the tightness a bit, but on the drive side, there doesn't seem anything that should block screwing it in by hand. I've checked the orientation of the threads on the shell and BB (CCW on drive side, CW on non-drive side), and the width of the bottom bracket (68mm).

Is this a clear case of needing to have the shell threads chased? Or could I proceed softly with a wrench without much risk of damaging the shell threads? What else could I check to make sure the frame and BB are compatible?


texts: How to replace hub motor cable in e-bike?

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The hub motor wires are cut from near the axle and looks like I can't repair it without completely replacing it. The motor is similar to this one on Ali Express. I failed  to open the motor because the screws are so tight and rusted. I am thinking of cutting some part of the rod and join the wires. This seems an easier but not a good solution. Any advices?
Update:
I was able to get my motor working by cutting the cable from near the sensor board, pulling the cable inside the motor through the shaft and rejoining/soldering from where it was originally cut. This shortened my cable few inches and it was barely reachable to the controller. See the picture below. I wanted to know if the cable can be completely replaced with no need for these joins but it's not easy as the cable was the part of the motor coil itself.


texts: How to install a Hollowtech II crankset if it does not fit the top hat?

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In threaded 2-part bottom brackets there is a plastic top hat/bearing insert/dust cover that goes between the BB's bearing and the spindle, so that they fit tightly and the spindle does not wobble.

The problem is my crankset somehow does not fit the left
top hat: it was pushed out from the BB's left half and split by the spindle.

How is it supposed to be installed and not break if it's too tight?

I have a Rotor BB1 BSA "Designed to work with ROTOR and Shimano 24mm cranksets" and a Shimano Tiagra crankset.


texts: How can I find a replacement derailleur for a nice bike that is 20 years old (GT Winstream)

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My derailleur kinked up when I was pedaling hard and became a twisted mass of metal. It has a derailleur in the back which is a Shimano Altus and has some numbers on it that Google didn't identify. I can't find a manual for the exact bike online, I think it is a 2003 model.
Does anyone know how to find the exact specifications for such a derailer? I am afraid that if I go to a bike repair shop, they will tell me that they (and they alone) have the right connections to get the part and then they will order one, and I will have to pay the price for a brand new one, plus shipping and then pay the guy 45 bucks an hour to install the thing.
I could probably get another bike like mine used for what I might pay the professional. (If I were very wealthy then I would support such people as bike repairmen, but I prefer to borrow tools from friends and fix things myself.


texts: How to fix tubeless tire leak at rim seam

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I bought a Cannondale Fat Caad 2 that came with tubeless ready rims and tires— the rim is even pre-taped.  I’m converting to tubeless currently — removed tube, installed valve stem, put 120ml of sealant in the tire, inflated the tire to 30 psi to seat it, rolling the tire.

Testing with soapy water, it’s sealed everywhere except for at the rim seam. It’s actually leaking through the seam at the groove where the small bubbles in the picture are and slightly at the bead where the big bubbles are.

Will this seal after rolling the tires for a few days or should I open it back up to do something, and if so, what?


texts:
I know that squealing brakes are fairly typical questions but I have not found a solution yet.

My bike is a Haibike with Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disk brakes and in recent years I ride in southern Finland.

During past winter, my front brake started squealing a lot. This was pretty usual in wet conditions, so I didn't pay much attention and assumed the winter conditions might have an effect on it.

However, months on, I still have this problem and it is pretty annoying to wake up the whole neighborhood any time I need to brake.

Today I performed bleeding of both hydraulic brakes and also replaced the braking pads in both brakes. Rear works perfect, front feels the same as before - braking performance not so sharp as rear and squeals during hard braking and/or low speed.

One thing that's "special" in my case is that my rear brake has not worked for a year or two because I didn't want to bleed the brakes (and Finland is flat), so the front brake has definitely been used much more.

Now the first thing on everybody's mind will be brake pad contamination, but the brake pads are new and I paid extra extra care not to get them in contact with any dirt or oil.
I tried cleaning the disk with soap to make avoid any oil but no improvement.

Could it be that the disk is the problem? I read advices to make it a bit more coarse with a fine sandpaper, could that help?

I'm happy for any hints, thanks!


texts: How to identify whether a TRP Spyre mechanical disc brake is the post-recall version?

texts: For online (bargain) shoppers who face the risk of possibly buying old stock, are there any markings on the post-recall TRP Spyre that could be used to clearly identify it as the new version?


texts: At what speed does Aerodynamics of a bike come into play?

texts:
Is a more aero bike more efficient than less aero bike at 10mph? At what speed does Aerodynamics affect your speed significantly.

update: "The question is dealing with the minimum speed that a cyclist will notice the effects of a modern aero frame vs a non-aero frame. via @user"


texts: Strategy for removing a bottom bracket with plastic retainers?

texts:
Bottom brackets that have plastic retainers have a reputation for being problematic to remove. Often the tool interface on the plastic retaining ring will shear off if the plastic is old or the bottom bracket is stuck (How can I remove the stripped plastic cups of a bottom bracket?).  I (everyone?) would like to avoid such a situation if possible.

What steps can one take to improve ones chances of sucessfully removing the plastic retaining rings?

Some ideas:

The plastic rings are typically made from Polyamide, which is resistant to attack by hydrocarbon lubricants.  A penetrating oil might work (to the extent that they work anyway).

The plastic rings are made from a thermoplastic so heating is probably a bad idea.  Having said that, it should be possible to heat up the bottom bracket shell with a heat gun or similar to around 100 Celcius.  This would expand the bottom bracket shell by some fraction and make it easier to remove the retaining ring.  Unfortunately the coefficient of thermal expansion of the rings is likely higher than that of steel.  Maybe freeze the rings instead?

Maybe it's possible to attach a metal fastener (by pinning perhaps?) to the retaining rings.  I expect this is in the realm of fantasy.

EDIT:  To clarify, I am asking exclusively about threaded bottom brackets.


texts:
A problem with this kind of tasty food here is that you become depended on it, usually having no such luxuries so a more spartan question.

I use a lot of vitamin supplements for B, C, D and Calcium. B, D and Calcium require oil to absorb so they are in green containers like in the picture. C is water-soluble so it is in blue container, good after tiresome touring to get them fast. I use different sized containers such as this large one and this small here but use these ones here for color-coding. You cannot use permanent marker on the aluminium surface because it gets away fast, I used scissors to do the markings. The black one is for emergency, details here.

Then, I use a lot of dry things such as soy powder (protein), muesli(good to have in pocket, just because I like it), salt(essential to get after long riding) and sucker (good to get energy fast). They don't weigh much. Then, I just throw random things I can pick during journey like vegetables and fruits. What about your food during touring? How do you eat during touring? I am interested in a self-sustainable way of living that guarantee necessary intake of important vitamins-calories-and-such-things. I have no idea whether soy powder, for example, is available everywhere so perhaps you must substitute its protein with something else in different locations. So what is your touring food?

Something about Protein sources

How to cook insects?
Cheap sources of protein?


texts: What pressure should I run my Road Bike tyres at?

texts: There's a question for mountain bike tyres but I can't seem to find anything on here for road bikes. At the moment I'm running at around 90psi. Is that too much? too little?  Also, am I more likely to get punctures running at higher pressure?  I seem to be getting a lot lately.


texts:
I have two kids (about 70lbs/30kgs combined) whom I during the summer frequently took biking in a trailer (once I got them used to it, say a dozen trips this summer or slightly more).  I biked 5+ miles round trip with them without significant difficulty; I'm not in great shape, but I was generally able to get up over 10MPH when I had a decent flat straightaway, and didn't need to stop (biking 3 miles in a residential setting with frequent stop signs/lights in 20 to 25 minutes).  I typically bike in the 2nd forward gear, 4-7 rear gear (4 is for starting from a stop usually, then I go up to 7 once I'm at speed assuming I don't immediately stop again).

I hadn't biked for a couple of months perhaps, when I suddenly had a need to bike ~6 mi round trip to take my older son to preschool and younger to daycare.  This was on a suddenly cold day, below freezing - around 10˚F/-10˚C.  I checked my tires visually and by feel, and they seemed fine (the bike was stored in an unheated garage, but it probably did have a 20 or more ˚F buffer from the outside given this was the first day of real cold weather).

I made it half a mile, in 2nd and 1st forward gear, completely out of breath and almost vomiting.

I saw at least two problems: one is that it was as if I had shifted to 3rd forward gear, as far as how hard it was to use the gears - I couldn't go at all in my normal gear range.  Second was that the cold air seemed to have significant effect on my lungs even after not very much exertion.

Are some of these issues things I can do something about, or is biking in the fairly cold impossible for someone of my skill level?  Is the chain oil wrong and not functional at lower temperatures?  Is the 70lb weight on the back of my bike making a bigger difference (due to air pressure in the tires or something)?  I'm not taking into account ice or snow here - this was the first cold day of the winter, so just simply cold (this was during the 'polar plunge' or whatever silly name they gave it this year).  I know exertion in the cold is a different beast than exertion in the summer, but this seemed a level of magnitude harder than I anticipated.

I have a hybrid with factory tires, ~$400 USD bike when new (now 2-3 years old), probably has maybe 200 miles on it total.  No particular maintenance done recently, just usual tire airing.


texts: Will heavy tires make a difference for climbing?

texts: I have a pair of conti 4 seasons and a pair of marathon pluses. I use the latter on a daily basis for commuting because of their puncture resistance, and haven't used the contis in a while now. I will be going on a tour with quite a lot of hills and climbing. I will be taking a couple of kg of stuff in a rucksack. The question is, will there be a noticeable difference between using the marathons vs using the contis? Will the rolling resistance make any real difference (for climbing)?


texts: Help choosing between two frame sizes based on my dimensions

texts:
I would really appreciate some help choosing a size of bike frame. I am stuck between choosing the large or the extra large.

I may go down the route of getting professionally checked on the bike, but there is every chance that since this is a frame company a long way from my house I won't be able to get it properly checked before I try and place an order, only testing on equivalent bikes. I have not decided if I am going for flat bars or drop bars, but more likely drop bars.

These are the bike sizes:

These are my measurements:

A: 186cm (6ft 1inch)
B:
C: 88cm
D:
E: 62cm (armpit to bottom of thumb as per picture)
F:

Any help would be really appreciated. My feeling is that the large is the right size, but from my preliminary reading it looks like the extra large may be closer?

Thank you


texts: How can I determine what these tire specs mean?

texts:
I am trying to build a space frame bike from the n55 project.  They have some pretty cryptic "designs".

What do these lines mean?

  FRONT WHEELS 24”x1.75 equipped with a reinforced axle (M12, 8.8) for
  one-sided attachment,

from their deign pdf here.

I'm actually going to be using this wheel for a trailer and the trike.

I googled a bit and could not figure it out.

I believe 24 inches is the diameter and 1.75 is the width in inches.

But what about the M12 and 8.8 parts?

The axle is reinforced for strength because it only mounts on one side.

Commented Link Picture

Eventually will be this:


texts: What are the horizontal slots/tabs on the back of some saddles for?

texts: Some saddles like Brooks have two tabs sticking down from the back, with a horizontal slot through each. What are these for? My guess is they are for certain kinds of saddle bags, but I don't really know. Is there a name for the slots (e.g. if I'm looking specifically for saddles that have that feature, what do I search for)?


texts:
My rear cable housing got torn apart while I was tunning gears as you can see in the picture. I'm quite new to cycling so i'm not sure if i should replace the whole cable or just the part of the housing which got damaged?

Also if I'm just replacing the cable housing, do i have to cut the cable as there is a nut at the end of the cable which stops me sliding the housing out of the cable?

(just for your information i have shifting issues in the rear derailer as well: i.e., for certain gear combinations it sometimes overdo the gears when upshifting and downshifting. Maybe be this is related to a bad cable as well)


texts: What does 'orbital' mean when speaking wheels?

texts:
I want to build my own dirt jumper, mostly using Octane One parts.

At this site, there's two versions of the wheel. An 15mm orbital and an 20mm orbital. What is the difference, and which is the most common?


texts: Overhauling 1998 Campagnolo Chorus Ergolevers

texts:
I'm about to dismantle a 1998 Campag Chorus Ergolever, as I suspect that the G springs need to be changed. I then hope to reassemble them having replaced worn parts. I'm looking for any useful information that supplements what I've already found:

Exploded diagram on Page 41 of Campagnolo's 1998 spare parts catalogue
Video of Overhauling Campagnolo Ergopower Ultrashift 2009

However, there's quite a difference between the components of the 2009 and 1998 levers, so what I'd most like to find is a video showing the disassembly and reassembly of the 1998 levers. Or anything else that you think might help me.

What's wrong with the levers? The rear gears shift to lower sprockets of their own accord. They hold in gear for maybe 20-30 seconds before shifting. I've tried the suggestions from @mikezs in Right campagolo gears slipping. The right-hand lever has almost no audible click - this leads me to suspect the G-springs.


texts: Why do bike tires suffer from frequent punctures whereas car tires don't?

texts:
I have driven in my life 200 000 km by car and 20 000 km by bike. In my car, I have never had a single puncture. In my bike, my puncture count probably exceeds 5.
Why do bicycle tires suffer from frequent punctures whereas car tires do not?


texts:
So, I'm a mountain biker, and recently, I've started doing bigger jumps on trails (5-12 ft). I ride a Trek Marlin 7 (hardtail) and I upgraded to Deity Deftrap pedals. Sometimes after landing a big jump or anything like that, my foot can slip off and the pedal pins give me a nasty cut on my shins, or bend my ankles weird and it feels kind of like AAI. So my question is where should I place my feet on the pedals when I'm doing jumps?
Edit: My shoes are Vans Sk8-Hi Classic's


texts:
Used bike (no apparent wear on the tires), this happened after about 300km of riding of my own.

Front tire:

Rear tire:

Why do you think this happened? Is it safe to use the rear tire further?


texts: Ok, so I just got new hydraulic brakes, I have not had any like these and they were fitted by professionals and they had replaced the pads as I had contaminated the old ones. After getting these fitted they aren't very sharp at all and can take up to 5 seconds to respond and make my back tyre lock up. So I was just wondering if anyone knows how I could make them better.


texts: Can I do cyclocross if I've never really been very athletic?

texts:
I've never really been very athletic - I started cycling around the city a few months ago, did a 30 mile ride recently (and felt great after it - could have done more, although the pace wasn't very fast). Did some other shorter rides with some groups that killed me (lots of hills, pace was around 12-14mph which wasn't bad, but man, those hills), but I've definitely noticed an improvement (I'm much faster now than I was 3 months ago). I'm currently dieting and working with a personal trainer to be more fit (he's mostly working with me on my core), but there's still a long way for me to go. I could probably lose around 15lbs.

Anyways, winter is approaching, and I've been fascinated by cyclocross. I want to be able to do some races next year (yes I realize that the season has just started). So, what should I start doing now to get myself in shape, so that in a year I can race cyclocross? I wont really be able to train outside, since it'll start snowing soon.

Relevant information - I'm 22, female, I have a really old road bike that I ride around the city and when I go out to longer rides on the weekends, and a cheap mountain bike. I was considering buying a trainer for the winter (should I?). I'd like to eventually buy a better road bike (~$1000 range) for the next season so that I can go on some serious rides, and well, if I end up doing cyclocross, maybe buy a cyclocross bike as well.

Any advice would be appreciated!


texts: Waterproof overshoes on Platform Pedals with pins

texts:
Are there Overshoes designed to last on Platform Pedals with pins? How long would a "normal" overshoe last on platform pedals before it shreds?

Sofar I've been doing fine with some plastic and scotch tape but the appearance is atrocious.


texts: Shimano MTB (SM-SH51) Cleats moving vertically in pedal

texts:
My new shoes/cleats seem to have "vertical" movement (not lateral float) and I can't figure out why, or how to fix it.

I recently got new shoes (Shimano XC-7) that use the same SM-SH51 standard Shimano cleat that I have been using until now in my old Giro shoes (probably 3 years on the old shoes/cleats). Same pedals, same set up, but if I pull up on my foot, I can create a clear gap between the shoe and the pedal - it isn't disengaging or coming out (i.e. I'm not unclipping). There is definitely a little more float than w/ the Giro shoes, but I can't tell why.

There are no shims under the cleats that I can see (unless they're inside the shoe, under the foot bed, but that shouldn't interfere w/ how the pedal interacts w/ the sole of the shoe).

Any ideas what causes this or how to fix it? It's a bit disorienting; I will probably be able to get used to just tweaking my pedal stroke, but that seems not optimal.


texts: Smartphone mounted on handlebar: Will vibrations during cycling damage it?

texts:
I would like to mount my smartphone on my bike's handlebar. However, I am worried about that the vibrations when cycling will damage my smartphone's internal electronics.

I am using a trekking bicycle in a city and sometimes travel longer trips with it. The surface I usually ride on is:

Asphalt (including rough and bumby asphalt streets)
Cobblestones
Gravel roads

I am not doing mountainbiking with it and I am aware of that having an accident with my bike will probably damage my smartphone as well. I also know that a dedicated bike computer is doing better under different weather conditions. But that are not the things I am concerned about.

My smartphone is a Samsung Galaxy S Plus, so not a special "outdoor" smartphone.

Will the vibrations during cycling damage my smartphone?


texts:
I used to think as simple as lubcirants and grease, now that I'm off to buy grease to assemble a bike I'm confronted with dozens of different types of greases.

Does it matter what grease I buy? If absolutely not what grease do I use for what?


texts: I can't inflate tire. Should I look for another pump?

texts:
Hello to everyone in the community. I used to own a mountain bike which used 26" tires and I was able to inflate them after changing the tube while on the road. It wasn't perfect but allowed me to keep riding.  I have since switched to a road bike which uses narrower 700 tires and so far everytime I have tried to inflate them I find it impossible to do it properly. The pressure is just not enough to ride the bicycle and I am forced to just hire some professional to fix it. Has anybody experienced this? At  1.79m and 64kg I am certainly scrawny but I was thinking maybe with a different pump I could be able to inflate the tires.
Anyway, thanks for reading and any advice will be much appreciated.
Peace


texts: I'm building a bike from old bikeparts, but i've got a problem. The part that connects the derailleur with the frame doesn't fit, and I thought I would find something on chainreactions, but I can't see anything. Any suggestion?


texts: How to check the gear before renting a bike?

texts:
I don't own a bicycle. Whenever I go cycling, I would need to rent one. The first thing that I always check is to see if the brakes are working properly.

Sometimes, I have no idea that the gear is faulty until I encounter a steep slope where I need to pedal hard. This may cause the gear to jump or slip if it is faulty. Other times, when I change the gear, the pedalling suddenly becomes inefficient, with constant grinding noises from the gears.

In the end, I try not to change the gears at all to avoid the above problems. I would like to know if there is a way to visually inspect the gear and tell the shop assistant that, "Hey, the bike is faulty!", instead of coming back halfway to do the exchange.


texts: Is it cost efficient to Convert a Huffy Mens mountain bike to a road bike like the one I rented at Orange Peel in CO?

texts: While on vacation in Steamboat Springs CO I fell in love with a road or trail bike I rented and so did my family.  We road for miles on a trail and it was great.  I want to convert the mountain type bikes that I have in my garage that are falling apart.  They need new brakes, new seats, new tires, and possibly gears.  Is is worth it or scrap and start over?


texts: Where does the third bearing go in my Dyno moto 7 cruiser headset?

texts:
I have a "Dyno Moto7" cruiser made in 1997.  I removed the forks to paint the frame and there were 3 bearings that came out when the forks were removed. No one can figure out how the third bearing goes back.
I took it to a bicycle shop and they could put it together with the two bearings but can't figure where the third goes.
Does anybody have any information or experience with this set up?


texts: How to stabilise the bicycle seatpost and saddle when it is all the way up?

texts:
It is a standard column bicycle seat and I realised maybe I should have it raised to top (I can still stand the bicycle up using my toes) but the saddle rocks as there is no column to stop it moving and it doesn't have any other supports.

I don't want it fixed forever but still want the saddle to be stable, with minimal movement. How can I do that?

enter image description here

The movement is 1 mm. I will correct this later.


texts: Is WTB Tubeless Compatible System rim incompatible with clinchers?

texts:
WTB is offering a rim/rim design described as conforming to a standard, the Tubeless Compatible System.  The rim has a rounded well over the spokes along the center.  Is this rim incompatible with clincher tires and tubes?  And is there anything special here compared to other tubeless designs?

Here's the description: https://www.wtb.com/pages/tcs

Here's what they say:

  Our TCS™ (Tubeless Compatible System) technology is the solution for
  riders seeking high performance, lightweight and durable mountain bike
  wheel systems that are easy to install, fun to ride and simple to
  service. TCS tires are the first sealant tubeless tires to receive
  Mavic UST® certification, which means a proven fit between sealant
  tubeless tire and rim. Say goodbye to air compressors, tire levers and
  pinch flats. Say hello to your full riding potential.


texts: Cannondale Topstone Tiagra Upgrades - Musts, Must Nots, and MustArd

texts:
It's been a while since I last rode a bike but having bought a Cannondale Topstone Tiagra only a few days ago and finding the hidden streets and valleys of a town in which I've lived for many years I've reignited my passion.

Outside of riding my head has been frazzled by research into how to improve my bike and essentially gear up towards bikepacking with a journey from North to the South of England (Carlisle to Bristol 380 miles)

Certain articles recommend switching the Crankset of the Tiagra. I've read about the Selle Anatomica seatpost as a seat to save your perennial, Dropbars, Tape and everything in between.

Any recommendations? Musts, Must Nots and MustArd.


texts: I have a 2nd broken spoke after 300km on a new bike, is it the wheel or me?

texts:
I am new to riding. I rode as a kid but stopped for many years. My Physio recommended riding after a leg injury while running, so I went down to the local bike shop and brought a new bike. I am now 100kg (220lb) so I need the fitness. Bike is a lower-mid level hybrid bike costing AUD$550 (Malvern Star Sprint 1).

When taking it out of the garage for a ride after doing about 150km (90mi) on it I noticed the rear wheel hitting the brakes as I wheeled it and then the broken spoke. So I took it back to the store. They told me that it was 100% my fault and it wouldn't be covered by manufacturer warranty, and I must have hit a pothole or something. They told me that they will still fix it for free as a goodwill gesture and some tips about not riding off the tops of gutters (I didn't), avoiding potholes (I try), and taking off in too high a gear (strange to me but ok). The only thing I can think of that I could have done was a flat gutter that had a bit more bump than I was expecting but nothing I believe that could have caused that.

A few rides later, about 300km (190mi) on the clock, it happened again, broken spoke and a bent rim as I was wheeling it out (both times I didn't notice wheeling in, but I didn't really check). I have been trying to follow the advice but some potholes I didn't see, but again nothing that I think was hard enough to do damage.

I know if I go down to the store again, they are going to charge me for the repair as they say it was my fault again. If they do, it probably means the end of riding for me as I can't see how I can avoid damaging it. So is it my fault, am I riding wrong or something wrong with the wheel? What should I tell the store?

Edit: Thank you all for your great suggestions, this is a very welcoming community. I took it to another independent bike store that I found with good reviews to do a wheel rebuild. Talking to them they said bikes at that price point had good frames but skimp on the wheels to get the cost savings. He recommended that I get a completely new wheel as the rim and hub weren't that good either. I don't know if he was trying to upsell me but he seemed to know what he was talking about. Total cost AU$200 with installation.


texts: Could I use a 30 tooth chainring with my current crankset?

texts:
a few months back I installed a 34 tooth narrow-wide chainring in my Santa Cruz Bronson. I decided to install the 34 tooth chainring, basically, because I couldn't fit any other smaller chainring using my current crankset.

You can see my current build in the following picture:

I use a "standard 73mm threaded BB" GXP (or that's what Santa Cruz website says).

How could I change it to a 30t chainring?

Do I need to buy a new crankset? If so, do you recommend direct mount cranksets (in case I need to switch it to another side of chainring in a future), and, does any GPX-adapted crankset work?

UPDATE: my crankset BCD is 104


texts: Time trial carbon frame scratches. Should I concern?

texts:
While cleaning my time trial bike I've noticed many scratches in the frame. See pictures below.

My tire pressure is usually around 100 psi, depending on the weather conditions or circuit. My wheels are the following: https://9thwave-cycling.com/product/road-sl50-wheels/

Should I be concerned? What can I do?
Thanks in advance.


texts: How to store a bike outside and still avoid rapid decay?

texts:
I've got insufficient space to store my bike inside. I fear however that it will rust away within a few years if I store the bike outside. My question is twofold:

Will storing a bike outside be a problem?
What can I do to prevent rust and possibly other types of decay?


texts:
Today I cleaned my chain with the Park tool CM-52 and it was really effective. However, I ran through half of the park tool bicycle degreaser. I'm thinking of purchasing this degreaser from my local hardware store. Thoughts?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-1l-degreaser_p1560295


texts: Caliper bolts after crash: repair or replace?

texts: A few days ago, I was looking down checking out my crank while riding and drifted into the LA River Bike Path and ended up crashing bending my front brake caliper.  Can the recessed bolt that holds the brake caliper in place be bent back straight or should I just buy a new one?


texts:
I have a Canyon Endurace XL frame with a 110mm stem which I currently have slammed. I've started racing this year and am very comfortable in the drops for the entire race, which makes me think that I might have room to go a little lower.
Would I be better getting a stem of the same length but with a -17deg angle which would effectively buy me another 21mm to play with? Or should I go for a longer reach? Or both?


texts: I bought this bike from the thrift store the other day and have had no luck identifying it myself through web searches. The only things I know about it is that it's a womens bike, it's had a paint job it's a 10 speed, the main name on it says "Hummer",  and the smaller name on it says "brinkman". If anyone knows something about this bike it would be of great help! Thanks!!


texts:
I'm looking into going for tubular tyres and I'm new to this part of the world. As far as I understand there are two main options to mount the tyre:

1. Tub Glue which sounds like kind of a pain in the ass time-wise and requires some effort, but seems like a very solid solution to fix the tyre to the rim.

2. Tub Tape like the one from Velox, which seems like a very easy and fast way to mount the tyre but for me personally it doesn't seem rock solid.

Can anyone with the experience of using both explain pros and cons of these methods.

Thank you guys! You're the best!!


texts: It's a 1950s eatons glider , used to be my great uncles. Sat in the garage since the 80s and now it's mine. Finally. Haha , but the paint just won't clean up. I've tried soap and water with a toothbrush , spray nine, that's all I got lol any tips ? I want to bring it back to as close to perfect as possible , already did the chrome up and it looks great , the banana seat is great as well, just the paint left


texts: When did bicycle chains go back to being bushingless?

texts:
The original bicycle chains were of a "bushingless" design, then later they came up with a roller chain design that utilized bushings, this was later updated again to the chains we are used to today that are again of a "bushingless" design.

Wikipedia says the following which I find to be incorrect as KMC's higher end chains such as the SL DLC series as well as Sram and Shimano chains are all "bushingless" and are likely the most prevalent in the industry.

  With these limitations in mind, the Nevoigt brothers, of the German Diamant Bicycle Company, designed the roller chain in 1898, which uses bushings, and it is the prevalent chain today. Whether it be single rear cog (for example coaster-brake singlespeed or with an internal-gears hub), fixed-gear (such as track bikes and modern urban "fixies") or multi-speeds with derailleurs, all modern chains in use today are of the "roller chain" design. Although it is still possible to order lower cost "bushingless" chains from China today, with generally lower manufacturing costs across the board, bushingless chains are generally considered undesirable and not prevalent

Wikipedia

Sheldon Brown also says that new chains are of a bushingless design,

  The major revolution in chain design has been the introduction of the bushingless chain. The first of this type was the Sedisport (now made by SRAM), and it has acquired such a good reputation that other manufacturers have copied the design.

Sheldon Source

At what point did this most recent change to a bushingless design occur?


texts:
I recently got a new beginners road bike:

http://www.amazon.com/Takara-Kabuto-Single-Speed-Road/dp/B004W8LG1S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

And an air pump:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pocket-Rocket-Master-Blaster/dp/B000FI6XGC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1339274700&sr=1-3

But I have no idea how to use the bike pump. I really don't have that much experience with bikes, which is probably a large portion of the problem. Here are some questions I have:

How do you even use the pump? I imagined it would be intuitive but it isn't, at all. It looks like my wheels have a schrader valve (it's definitely not presta, could it be something else?), and my pump says it can work for these valves, but I can't attach the end of the pump on the part of the tire that takes in air at all. After reading the Amazon reviews I understand you have to do an operation to change the head in order to deal with schraders, but even after that, it still doesn't work for me.
When I was young, I always pumped my bike until I felt the wheel was firm, as I had never heard of psi or anything. How do you exactly tell how much to pump your bike and what does psi have to do with anything?

Thanks


texts: Fork oil spilled out. Rebound Damper Assembly is missing

texts:
I took my bike out of the car, and it spilled lots of oil from the fork when was on the tarmac, ( Manitou Six Elite 2002 ) through a screw-hole where the "Rebound Damper Assembly" is supposed to be. I searched my car and couldn't find the rebound damper assembly.

Oil fell out and this thing has gone:

My fork is trashed?

Fork service manual: https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/2002-Six-Owners-Manual.pdf

Specifically, I parked my car on uneven ground... I checked my phone: "is uneven ground bad for car suspension" the next day, I took out my bike. The bike suspension was broken. true story.


texts: What cassette remover tool I should order for Shimano CS-HG50?

texts:
There is duplicate question
What tool is needed to remove a Shimano HG-50 freewheel?

but I need a non-park tool tool. Something I can order from AliExpress.

The cassete looks like this

I don't have enough reputation on bicycles to add comment to the duplicate question  (so my only option is to post it as question)


texts: Does the USADA have the authority to strip Lance Armstrong of his Tour de France titles?

texts:
Lance Armstrong has announced that he will no longer fight charges brought against him by the US anti-doping agency. The USADA says it will ban him for life and strip him of his 7 Tour de France titles. Armstrong says that the USADA does not have the authority to do that.

My understanding is that the International Cycling Union (UCI) is in charge of professional cycling events, including the Tour de France. So what is the relationship between the UCI and the USADA (and other anti-doping agencies)? Who has the final say over banning and disqualifying cyclists?


texts:
I have been riding a bike for years.

The one thing I've never managed to do is to feel comfortable about letting go of the bars with even one hand.

This is actually not exactly true, I can ride without a problem with my left hand only on the bar and the right hand in the air or wherever... (I suppose it is because I am left-handed so keeping control of the bar with only the left hand feels more right).

Still, how can I train to let go off the bar with the left hand too (which is more useful for signaling than the right one, since turning right is always easier in countries where we ride on the right of the road)?

Every time I try to let the left hand off the bars, I have the reflex of getting a tighter grip on the bar with that right hand and after a couple of meters I start feeling unsafe and my trajectory stops being completely straight and I catch the bars back with both hands before losing balance.

I don't intend to learn this just "for the trick",... I just believe it is useful in the ride.

Any tips for me?


texts: How to judge BB height visually and the effect on handling?

texts:
Is it possible by viewing a bike frame to tell roughly what the handling of the bike is going to be? This current question is about bottom bracket height in the above mentioned respect.

I have noticed that some bikes have parallel to ground chainstay, while others have angled. Assuming 26" wheels, is this angle enough to judge BB height, e.g. "low", "medium","high". If so, are those categories enough to provide some concrete information about the handling of the bike (e.h. "a lot of clearance", "aggressive turning"), considering constant wheelbase and constant headtube angle?


texts: PG-1130 11 speed cassette hub compatibility

texts:
I am building a rear wheel and I have a PG-1130 Sram Cassette(11-42T). On the specifications they say:

11-42t cassette fits 10 and 11-speed non-XD™ driver bodies (1.85mm spacer is required for 11-speed drivers

Does this mean I can buy a 10-Speed rear hub? More specifically, I am looking for a 135MM, QR with Disc rear hub(36H). Do you guys have any suggestions? I'm looking for a reasonably priced one.


texts: What to look out for in a second hand bike buy

texts: I am looking into buying a second hand bicycle. What should one look out for (frame and component wise) when buying second hand, both for hardtail and full suspension xc/all mountain type bicycles?


texts: Map app / website that has surface information?

texts: I live in an area in the UK where some bridleways and paths have a type of mud that makes it unrideable when it is wet - "claggy mud" that completely clogs the drivetrain and tyres. I would like to know if there is an app / website that would allow me to plot routes that were 'weatherproof'.


texts: How do I disassemble my headset? How do I know if I need to replace it

texts:
I just bought a cheap frame off craigslist because I want to build myself a fixed gear bike.  When I turn the fork, it feels like there is sand in the bearings.  How do I go about taking the headset apart so that I can check the bearings.  What should I be looking for when I pull it apart?

(I know this is almost 2 questions, but they are so closely related, if needed, I'll split it up)


texts: I have a 28" Schwinn Yorkshire 700c hybrid cruiser. I got it since it was the only one in my price range but the problem is the tires are too slim for me and I'm used to much wider ones, so I was wondering what kind of wide tires are compatible with it?


texts: Why might a compact drivetrain be frowned upon?

texts:
At the cafe stop on my local Saturday ride a few of the guys we chatting and one guy asked an other if he was riding a compact drivetrain. The other guy objected loudly and they then joked with other members of the group suggesting they were riding compacts.

Why would the notion of riding a compact drivetrain attract such a response?


texts: How do you prevent your lights switching on in your bag?

texts:
Since it's mostly light here these days, and I don't want to leave my lights on my bike to disappear into someone else's schwag bag, I've been carrying my lights in my bag just in case, but not using them very often.  I've started to have problems with them turning on and draining the battery while they've been in my bag.  Do you have any ideas how I can prevent this type of problem?

The main light that is causing me problems is a Topeak front light, but that's not the only light.  I also have small back lights and one of them has had the a similar problem.  In general these lights are great and this doesn't happen very often, but it's sufficient of a pain that I'd rather it never happened.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-whitelite-ii-front-light/


texts: I would like to add gears to my adult tricycle. How difficult would that be and would it be very costly?


texts:
I got a bike a few days I go and I started to use Strava app on iPhone to track my rides, its pretty cool.
But I should go to iPhone, open Strava app and say I want to start tracking. That's too much work, let's put it this way for now.
Is there any device out there that does something similar? I'm imagining it should be tracking all the time and sync with iPhone (or Apple Watch).


texts:
I have a Schrader valve that is leaking air. I have a feeling that I over inflated the tyre. Recommended was 40-65psi and gaugue was showing just over 60. Up until that point it was pumping fine and then air started escaping and now leaks as much air as it takes in.

Any ideas what the problem might be or what issue I might have caused by over inflating, if I have?


texts: What is the difference between Spray lubricants and non-spray lubricants?

texts:
Some images about lubrication to which I am referring to here and image about parafin usage here.

Spray lubricant (like green bottle 450ml TF2) can be awkward to carry, not the case with  black tiny bottle TF2 or more here. If I can understand right, they may have different usage because of different penetration (speculation). Then, there is also non-spray lubricant called hot wax ala paraffin, instructions. And certainly innovative people have invented even more merry products. Which products do I really need to to keep my chains in good condition? The cheaper, the better. The products are not genuine substitutes due to their size, forgive me, and if I have interpreted right, you may need to heat parafin or I am just misinterpreting the picture.

When do you use spray lubricant and non-spray lubricants?
Which lubrication is the cheapest? What about the best with infinite time?
Is some of the lubricant bulk product so you could get it cheap perhaps parafin?


texts: Brooks B-17 isn't breaking in, how to accelerate the process?

texts:
I have two bikes with Brooks B-17 saddles on them:

My full-frame touring bike: The saddle has a nice patina of age, having been used for several tours and some commuting.
My Bike Friday Tikit folding bike: This one doesn't get used for rides of nearly the same length, mostly because I can use the bike with the nicely broken-in saddle. Also, this bike has a more agressive posture than the touring bike, and I keep more weight on my legs than on the saddle; could this be part of the reason the saddle isn't breaking in?

I've been using proofride about every six months on both saddles. I've had the Tikit for over a year.

The question: Is it possible to break in or age a B-17 more quickly? Right now, it feels more like plastic than leather, and isn't comfortable for rides of more than ten or fifteen miles.

Alternately, would attempting to age it and soften the leather damage the leather? Maybe a B-17 is the wrong saddle for this bike?


texts: When should I use lockout feature on my fork?

texts:
I have a trekking bike with a 63mm fork which has a lockout feature enabling the control of the suspension.

Can you explain when should I lock the fork, in what position and why?

One obvious example would be when climbing hills, one should lock the fork in minimum suspension (almost no suspension, the fork is stiff/hard as if there is no suspension at all). The reason is to prevent that the part of the energy is lost on the amortization...

But, what are other examples? What should one do when going down the hill? Or going really fast?


texts: What type is my bike valve, and why can't I pump it up?

texts:
so I've taken some pictures of the valve on my bike tyre (if you zoom out they look clearer...), below. Basically, it's a new bike and I have no experience around these things. The pump I have doesn't fit onto the valve, because it gets stopped by the nut in the middle before it can attach - it's like the pump head is too deep for the valve. Does that make sense? But when I take the metal nut in the middle off, obviously the valve then falls out - but if I hold it in place it can pump the tyre up (showing that the pump is the right type) - but as soon as I remove the pump the valve then falls out and all the air comes out of the tyre again.

I bought the bike in Europe (Slovenia) if that changes anything.

Thanks for any advice on what to do here.

Simon

(My pump is http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/128234)


texts:
I have a 2010 Haro Pro Race, which I bought for commuting and general tomfoolery.

I commute on it 2 miles a day, and I want to be able to go faster by changing the current single-speed gearing ratio.

It currently has no modifications from the standard gearing:

Crankset: 3-pc Alloy 175mm, Euro Sealed Bearing BB
Gearing: 39/14

I find that I can go quite fast with this gearing ratio, but when it comes to going down hill it is just too easy and I no longer get any drive.

Can someone suggest a better gear ratio / crankset that is more aimed for top speed, rather than acceleration, yet still allow me to accelerate from a standstill quite quickly?


texts: How does weight influence your speed when descending?

texts:
I have recently bought a road bike and went on a little trip with a friend who is also a novice.

We have approximately the same height but he weighs a lot more (I weigh 67-68kg for 1m81 and he weighs around 80-85kg).

While descending a road, he outclassed me easily. It made me wonder :

Suppose that two people have exactly the same characteristics (same bike, same height, same equipment,...) but a different weight and a corresponding different shape (one is fit and the other overweight or more muscular). If they both ride perfectly (i.e. in an optimal manner), who is going to go faster ?

If the road and tires were perfectly smooth and there was no air, physics tells us that these two people would go at the exact same speed.

Theoretically, the heavier person has a less aerodynamic shape if his/her additional weight is the result of fat and not muscle, so if the road and tires are still perfectly smooth and if there is air, the lighter person should be faster (assuming that the "aerodynamic theory" is right).

Now, add the fact that the road and tires are not perfectly smooth and that I have probably forgotten important factors, how to know which one will be faster ?

I could have asked this question in the Physics community but I bet it is something known in the bicycles one.


texts:
I'm cycling to work every day. It's 2x8km it takes around 30 mins (depends on weather, traffic and whether I want to push it or just cruise. I'm starting to see it as an opportunity to make it some sort of actual training - HIIT training maybe?

Something like alternate slow/fast kilometers (or 500 meters), or pushing any hill fast and taking the rest as recovery, etc.

Is it likely to provide significant improvements in Vo2 max? Why yes/no and what exercise structure (with given distances/times) would be most beneficial from that perspective?

Other details:

It's a good commute (mostly bike path with little traffic or secondary roads, relatively long straight lines in a lot of places, good surface, some hills). However 30 km/h is probably a maximal reasonable speed
I can run it too - about 35 mins
I'm prone to shin splint so I wouldn't do things like 1k intervals @ 3:30. Running/cycling uphill would be better (and recovery rest of time).
I have a cardio watch so I can keep pretty good stats of stuff

EDIT (To add details from comments)

David/gshenk: I'm actually at about 50 ml/kg/min for Vo2max @ 34 years old (that was ~1 years ago, might have gone down a tad), which as far as I know is not too shabby. The reason the commute is so slow is that it's still a city-ish setup (so I do have2 major intersections eating up a couple minutes because I HAVE to wait my turn, plus  a little bit not connected I have to take a path & walk my bike on my shoulder). I'm also doing with a mountain bike (so relatively fat tires, not a gear setup especially given to high ratios). The other thing is that this is in the northeast and yes snow, ice & slush will quickly wreak havoc on your avg speed. Ah and I'm also carrying a small pack (lunch, clothes & sometimes a laptop). Nothing crazy but ~10-15 pounds on average. I know a saddle bag would be better.

So ~30 + or - 5 mins in winter, probably getting closer to 20min in the summer.
Criggie: I like your thinking. True I don't NEED to go straight to work (nor get directly back). Excellent idea to remove some constraints.
Some people seem concern about safety - I do hear the concern, but let's just assume for the sake of argument I'm not a total idiot and I'm not going to risk crashing in a trolley full of toddlers just to keep it in my Zone 5 HR interval....


texts:
I have two brake systems I think on my bike. On the front I have a threaded stud and on the back a road brake.
Here is the front and the back (click for large version):

As you can see on the back the highlighted part is way smaller:

So am I right to say that on the front I have a threaded stud and on the back a road brake?


texts: Why mountain bikes had originally 26 inch wheels?

texts:
If the road bikes already had "almost" 29 inch wheels, why wouldn't we simply use those stock wheels instead of inventing a new standard?

Also, if a pro rider from the 90's rode bigger wheels in those old bikes, would this rider have any advantage?


texts: Can I shrink my steel rear dropouts to fit a smaller hub?

texts: I am rebuilding a 1971 Raleigh International road frame into a single speed bike for college. I bought a set of track wheels with rear hub spacing 110mm. The rear dropout on the Raleigh is 120mm. Will I be able to cold set the frame, shrinking it 10mm to fit this rear wheel? The frame is Reynolds 531 tubing with a lugged steel construction.


texts: I have got 29er tires and I want to upgrade to 29 plus

texts: Hi I am just about to take delivery on a new bike (Carrera Hellcat) with 29 inch wheels however I want to upgrade to 29 plus wheels and I have found some tires that will work but will my normal inner tube and wheel work with the 29 plus tires? Thanks in advance.


texts: What is the typical structure and location of a check valve in a floor pump?

texts:
I decided to take apart a Bontrager reCharger floor pump recently on a whim, one of those whims during which you pay no attention at all to what you're doing. After putting it back together, the pump now admits air so that when connected to a full tyre the handle goes all the way up by itself.

Looking both here and at manufacturers making more serviceable models reveals the existence of one-way check valves within the pump itself to prevent air escaping from the tyre. Never thought about this and had always assumed it was either handled by the inner tube valve or some magic in the pump connector.

What do these check valves look like and where are they typically in a pump? If anyone knows the answer to this specifically for the Bontrager reCharger, or would be willing to spend two minutes taking theirs apart more carefully than I did to look, then that would also be very useful. I have a feeling something went boing and I'll find it under a skirting board in a few years time.

There are also some genius solutions out there which I might have to try.

Thanks


texts: What tricks do you use to avoid damaging cables when adjusting the gears?

texts: I was trying to adjust gears, and being my first time, I ended up damaging the cable. I mean that I "smashed" it, the threads became apart, and it was dangerous to deal with it. I replaced the cable, but I would like to avoid the problem in the future. Is there any trick, apart from being careful? I'm thinking something like coating the cable with a bit of glue. Is it ok?


texts:
Good afternoon all!  In previous questions, I've mentioned that I intend to rebuild my 2000 Trek 7700 Multitrack.  Well, I'm beginning by replacing the bottom bracket.  According to the spec sheet I got from Vintage-Trek.com, the BB is Shimano BB-LP27 73x113.  I've searched for BB-LP27 73x113 and come up empty.  I assumed this is an obsolete part, but there must be a current part which will serve the same purpose.  How do I decipher what current part would work in this application?

I'm adding the technical sheet I found on vintage-trek.com.


texts:
today while I was riding I lost control of my bike; it was nothing serious, I even fell "standing", but my bike fell on a rock and the carbon frame was chipped.

Should I worry about the damage?

I read posts about using nail polish to "cover" the damage, would you advice that?

Thank you a lot!

The damaged part is the top tube, close to the handlebars.

Here is a photo of the damage:


texts: Transmission (cassette/crankset) considerations for 1st road bike purchase

texts:
I currently have a touring bike, with fenders, rack, panniers, and so on.
I currently run a triple crankset 28/38/48 and 9sp 11-34 cassette.
I mostly commute and tour with this bike. And with a fair load, I mostly ride on my 48 in front and 14-ish and around in the back.
I can climb most climbs with the 38 and sometimes as high as the 26 (rarely the 30 and 34t)

As I want to go more on the workout/sport/exercise type of riding I am considering the purchase of a road bike (more of a racing type).

I prefer a compact 50/34 crankset but am wondering for the cassette, do I need to go as high as a 10sp 12-30 to climb all I need?
Because I also like the idea of closer gears, so is 12-28 or 12-25 too tough?


texts:
I bought a Motobécane last year (pics below), and now that the bottom bracket is broken, I really need to know the model of the bike, to help me change that piece.

It would also be helpful if someone could redirect me to the Motobécane catalogs of the years 82, 83, I can't find them, and I suspect my bike is from this period.

Technical specifications:

frame color: green and black (How customizable was that? I think they didn't sell the same colors each year)
frame: tubing inexternal 707, "trainer" (I don't find the appropriate info about it)
brakes: Weinmann
derailleur: Sachs - Huret. 12 gears
Wheel: Maillard
Bottom Crank: ?? width of the shell: 74mm. From this page http://sheldonbrown.com/vrbn-g-n.html, the old french ones have special dimensions. Also on Motobécane, they are swiss type (left-threaded). I don't know if this is a cotterless one, shimano octalink, or if I can put something more standard?

[EDIT: As suggested by @Blam, I took the bottom bracket out.
First mistake: shell width doesn't correspond to the red line on the pic, but less, so width should be 68mm, I'll double check on the bike.
The Brand is Stronglight, french brand, but the threading is the normal one (left-threaded on the right side, and right-threaded on the left side).
The axle is 120mm long, tapered square. Like this model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VP-Components-Bottom-Bracket-120mm-Square-Taper-Unsealed-Bike-NEW-/311359596201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item487e7a66a9

But anyway, I'm still interested in knowing the model of this bike, and/or finding the Motobécane catalogues of years 1982-83]

Important Note: The rear wheel is not the original (was broken). I also changed the part of the crank where I put the feet when I bought it (maybe I shouldn't have...).

Sorry if it looks quite dirty, I didn't have time to clean.

Pics:


texts: Is there a certain size tube for my tyres?

texts: When it comes to fixing bikes, i'm not to crash-hot. I can clean grime, oil the chain and put it back on if it falls off. However, when it comes to the inner tubes I usually rely on someone else to get me another tube and put it on for me (I can put them on, but in that sense I'm too lazy). So, today, when I went to pump up the tyres I found they had a puncture and I would prefer to change them as I haven't ridden this bike in a LONG time, only I'm not sure if there has to be a certain size tube. Help? Please? :)


texts: XTR Shadow Plus derailleur soft setting?

texts:
XTR Shadow Plus derailleur has a switch between a hard and soft chain tension. The difference is hardly noticeable when shifting.

Is there ever any good reason to use the soft setting when the hard setting keeps the chain quite more stable on bumps? What is it for?


texts: Which rear cog should I remove if I want to add a 26 for climbing?

texts:
I have an old road bike with 53-39 rings and 13-23 cassette. Although it's generally flat in my area, I like to get to the top of these hills where they put the radio antennas (without dying). Max slope on these is 15%, average 8% and I suffer a lot.

I have spare cogs, rear mech is Shimano RX100 and thought I can fit a 26T in the cassette Which cog should I remove from my current setup (13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23)? I guess either the 16, the 21 or the 23?

I'm already assuming body fitness can be improved ;) Thanks!

Edit: here are the gear ratios
http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#700c/23I61I3909X700c/23I61I193X700c/23I61I15271X700c/23I61I15275

Report back (edit 2): I set 13-14-15-16-18-21-23-28 today. I just realized I have a 24 I could swap for the 23 to make a fairer gap, and I still have the 26 available. There is room for the 28T and didn't touch the B-screw. For now, it shifts fine standing, I have still to ride test it. I'll get back.

Conclusion - edit 3 :)
Went for a small ride with climb included. Setup is still very close to what it was, introducing the 18 as Grigory said and leaving room for a life-saving 28 (thanks Criggie for the tip).

Shifting is good, I didn't notice much change, but as ChrisH and Criggie pointed out, it probably is a bit irregular on the new cogs. So I will eventually look for a complete cassette.
Anyway, many thanks to all. I'll accept Grigory's answer as it addresses the original question with a better alternative to do what I intended.


texts: Planning on building a fixed-gear/single-speed from an old Schwinn World. What new parts will I need?

texts: I think I want a flip flop hub, to keep my options open. If I get one off amazon, do I need to buy a freewheel and fixed-gear cog as well, or will those come with the hub? Also, does the hub have to be specifically sized for my bike, or are they universal? I'm trying to learn how to do this, but it's hard not knowing anyone around who has done it before. Any info would be appreciated.


texts: Alleviating pressure from coccyx with padded shorts

texts:
I recently started biking again after 5 years. However, I had endured unusual coccyx pain when I had a longer than usual ride (~11 miles). I even had my skin chafed/torn where the tailbone meets the saddle which made me think that I might have had too much pressure and friction in the coccyx area while riding.

I'm planning to purchase bike shorts with a padded chamois and/or a new saddle such as Rido. Since I can't afford both at the same time, my question is, would the short make a big difference in alleviating pressure from coccyx or should I consider changing my saddle first?

My bike is a 2015 Trek X-Caliber 6 with a Bontrager Evoke 1.5 saddle. I ride both on the road and the trail but the painful ride was on the road.


texts:
Would anyone be able to help identify the make of my bike frame? There's no branding on it and I built it up custom using different parts. I've never been able to find out what the make is and am v. intrigued.

It's really light and is probably aluminium.
It's got a cut away on the seat tube.
it's got down tube shifters.
None of the tubes are round, all are odd shapes, quite thick.

Picture below. I can upload more is necessary.


texts: Are 130 BCD chainsets stiffer than 110 BCD?

texts:
I would expect the crank spider not to sacrifice much stiffness in expanding from 110 to 130, but the chainrings seem flimsy in comparison.

Do I buy extra stiffness by using a standard chainset instead of a compact?


texts:
I know there are about a million questions on here about creaking while pedaling, but I haven't seen one that relates...apologies if I missed one. I bought a 2011 BMC Streetracer SR02 last year; shortly after I got it I removed the Shimano 105 it had previously, and replaced them with a mix of SRAM Rival and Red (Rival shifters and derailleurs, 2012 Red GXP crank). Since I got the bike last February, I've put about 6k miles on it (both the chain and cassette were replaced ~2 weeks ago).

A little over a month ago, I started noticing a creaking/clicking when pedaling, typically beginning when I was about 3 miles into a ride. Nothing was changed on the bike before it started. The creaking occurs about once per pedal revolution (around 6 o'clock on both sides) and stops when I get out of the saddle. It occurs regardless whether my hands are on the bars. I've worked on the bike myself and taken it to my LBS, but we're both running low on ideas.

All the chainring bolts were replaced.
BB was swapped out with a new one.
Red crankset was removed, regreased and re-installed.
Red crankset was swapped out for a non-creaky 105 crankset.
Pedals were swapped out.
Chain and cassette were replaced.
Saddle was swapped out.
Seatpost was cleaned/greased.
Seatpost was swapped out.
Wheelset was swapped out for a newer one.
Headset was removed, inspected and cleaned.
Bottle cage bolts tightened.
Front derailleur braze-on bolt checked/torqued.
Rear derailleur hanger screws checked/torqued.
Wheel skewers swapped out.
Replaced the headset cartridges.

And yet, the creaking continues. At this point, I feel like I'm pretty much out of ideas (short of calling a priest...). I'm almost positive it's coming from the BB area, but I also know the sound could be coming from anywhere in the bike, given all the tubes.

Is it the frame? How would I check to see if it's the frame, rather than one of the components? Any thing else I could be missing?

Update:
I had a chance to play around with the creakiness when I rode last night (with different skewers in the wheels). It seems like the source of the issue is somewhere in the cockpit area. If I don't have my hands on the bars, the creaking is no different than when I have both hands on the bars. However, it seems that if I put one hand on the bars and shift my weight to that side, the creaking seems shift to that side as well. When I got back from the ride, I put a layer of grease on the part of the stem that attaches to the bars, and I'll check if that made a difference on a ride later today. I'm not sure that will be it, but that would make it easier.

Update:
Finally fixed! Following a group ride last week, we looked over the bike in a last ditch effort to solve the creaking. Things seemed in order, but the mechanic greased the seatpost clamp and the bolt attaching the front brake to the frame. He also noticed that the stem bolts (where it attaches to the fork) were stripped. Following the greasing, I briefly rode the bike, with no change in creaking. The next day I replaced the stem with a newer one and went for a ride. The creaking persisted at the beginning of the ride, but disappeared partway through the ride after an extended climb out of the saddle. >170 miles later and the creaking hasn't returned. I'm not sure which of the last three solutions finally did it (greasing the seatpost clamp, the front brake bolt or the stem) or whether the grease just needed more time to filter in, but I'll take it.

Hopefully no one runs into this issue in the future, but if they do, I hope this saves them the trip down the rabbit hole.


texts: Does sealant in tubeless tyres slosh around?

texts:
I'm getting interested in tubeless tyres for my gravel bike

I'm curious about the liquid sealant that you put in the tyre.

As I understand, it should stay liquid so that if there is a puncture, the sealant will flow to close the hole.

Does it slosh around in the tyre as you ride it ? do you feel it moving ?


texts: Bicycle's inner-tube got puncture right next to the valve, How to patch it there?

texts:
There is a very small cut 1-2 millimeter or less long in the inner-tube, right next to where it's the bottom of the Schrader valve. The cut is only 1-2 millimeters far away from the valve's bottom.

The hole has a shape of a cut, parallel to the valve's edge, and it's very close, so it's very obvious likely that the valve was part of the reason (the other reason being the valve moved a lot probably because the inner-tube was not inflated.) Air escapes out of the hole so it needs to be repaired.

I don't know if I can put a normal patch, because if the patch's edges detach even only a millimeter from the inner-tube, the hole will no longer will be covered and air will again escape. Any idea?
I give my 2 ideas:

Take a bike patch and cut a round hole in the middle, and then patch the inner tube with it, as if it were a ring, hugging the valve by all sides.
Get some super glue or cement that covers the hole somehow.


texts: Super Heavyweight Biker keeps destroying Dutch bikes

texts:
So I've had two Dutch style bikes and I keep breaking the spokes on them. The last time I had a custom wheel built using good components by a well known shop here (sapim and mavic components)... the spokes loosened after just one week. Even the shitty stock wheels I had on before lasted for longer.

I'm basically giving up on Dutch bikes and having other people built parts for me or repair my bikes. It just seems that I'm so far off the scale (literally) that no one has any experience with building working bikes for people my size (370 pounds).

From reading online it seems that the only working solutions have been 29er Mountain Bikes with freakishly large tires or cycles from this company in the US called Workman. I'm just wondering if there is not a middle way, I can't see myself using one of those riding the streets of London just yet. Even though the potholes here probably are comparable to offroad usage...

Any suggestions? One thing I have not yet tried is basically getting a full on Tandem hub and back wheel with 40 or maybe even 46 spokes.

I'd appreciate input from the few riders my size that I've seen on here.


texts: Cable stuck in Shimano twist grip shifter

texts:
If anyone has any idea how to get the broken end of a cable out of a twist grip shifter mechanism I would love to hear them. The shifters are Shimano Revoshift. The cable runs through a plastic guide and the end is completely recessed so there is no purchase on it. The plastic is one moulded unit so there is no access to the cable.
I have tried lubricating it and pushing it through from the other end to no avail.
Many thanks!
Gill


texts: Can I replace a 20x2.25 tyre with a 20x1.75 tyre?

texts: My daughter's bike has a 20x2.25 tyre, but they are hard to come by here in NZ. More common is a 20x1.75 tyre. Will this fit? Looking at other posts, and some charts, I think it should work?


texts: Are there measurements of road bike tire friction coefficients?

texts: I am trying to learn about the maxium lean angle of a road bike. I'm looking for measurements and comparisons.


texts: Is 17 miles (27km) each way a lot for a newbie cyclist?

texts: I go to the gym on a regular basis and do a fair bit of running. I feel like I'm fit enough to do this. It would be a one-off ride from Wembley to Slough and back so it would be a fair bit of road which could be a problem.


texts:
I tried fat biking this week, I've done hardly any off road or MTB cycling before and was very nervous.

I found keeping my hands over the brakes in case I had to stop suddenly strained my hands between thumb and first finger, especially as the ground was very rocky.

Is this just something your body gets used to or are there techniques I can improve here?


texts:
I'm shopping around for a vintage bike (maybe an old Raleigh or Schwinn), but I'm looking for two things:

Fenders and a Chain Guard
Drop Handlebars

I'm starting to think that drop handlebars are newer than most of the vintage bikes I'm looking at.  Is it realistic to expect a 50s-70s bike with drop handlebars?


texts: What are the most important accessories for a new biker to get?

texts:
I am a new biker and am going to be commuting to work on a hybrid. There are many cool accessories that help you carry gear, bike at night, track your rides, make adjustments and quick repairs like fixing flats, and more. It's very cool that there's so much that one can do to 'pimp their ride' so to speak but it can be overwhelming and it's hard to know where to start, especially for those (like me!) who are working on a budget and who needs to pick and choose because they can't afford to buy a ton of gear. My question is, where to start? In your view, besides the obviously necessary safety items like a bike lock and helmet, what are some of the must-have accessories that would be most important or most useful for a new or returning biker, and why?

Note: I know that there's already a question on the most useful accessory category. I want to focus on the most important accessories for a new biker, especially city bikers.