texts:
Fat or Skinny?
I think the arguments are as follows:

Fat: You can float on top of the snow and you don-t have to go through it.  You have a larger contact patch with the ground.
Skinny: Will find it's way through the snow to find some pavement to grab onto.
Studded: Works great on ice but has no effect on snow/slush/other stuff.  (Note never tried studded tires so just speculating).

Conditions of Interest
I am interested in traction on:

Cleared city streets
Uncleared city streets

Uncleared city streets where cars have gone through and made deep ruts

Slush

Slush that has re-frozen into deep ruts
Ice patches

Note: All pictures are take from google images.
Background
I have a short commute through part of Ottawa and run lots of erands on my bike.  When it is snowing and when the roads don't look good I have several routes that are only slow residential streets so I can stay away from people yacking on their phones.
I would also like to start doing some winter trail riding.
Here is the historical weather data for Ottawa.


texts: Pressure range conflict between tire and rim

texts:
I just mounted a new Ardnet Race tire that has a side label pressure rating of 35 - 60 psi .  The Stans Arch Ex rim that is mounted to says max pressure is 38 lbs, there is a little range on the sticker depending on the tire size, but this if to the mounted 29" x 2.2" tire.

The suggested ranges says I only have 3 psi to play with, 35-38 psi.  I used to run about 25-28 psi with the former Schwalbe Nobby Nics.  Why is the minimum rated pressure so high on these tires?


texts: Suntour derailleur compatibility with shimano shifter

texts:
I bought today a bike with a Suntour rear derailleur (XR 150 8 speed) for my daughter. It has old rotating shifters I with to replace with triggers.
Will a shimano 8 speed (e.g. Altus/Acera) fit this derailleur ?
I am not sure of the cassette brand, but the rear wheel hub is a Deore LX.


texts: Should I clean the grease off the gears?

texts: I usually keep my chain well lubricated. However, my gears are usually greasy. Should I be cleaning the gears or are they supposed to be greasy?


texts: Durable and Affordable 20" wheel and tire combo for Bicycle trailer?

texts:
I purchased an Aosom trailer a while back, and the wheels and tires are truly horrible.

So much so I only run light loads now.

I'm looking for 20" wheels that are either double wall alloy or vintage steel wheels.

I'm leaning towards used vintage wheels because they are cheaper.

My main problem is finding wheels that will fit on the trailer. All wheels that I see already contain a real axle. How do I remove the rear axle from the wheel?

Here are some images of the wheel and axle


texts:
I'm experiencing clicking noises when I put pressure on the pedals (either side). The bike is a CAAD12 105 (it has FSA chainrings).

I've done some investigation to pinpoint the source of the clicking. I'm able to isolate the problem by standing on the crank arm (not pedal) while the front wheel is being held perpendicular to a wall. This isolates stem, handlebar, saddle, and pedals.

Of course it could still be spokes, fork, frame, or drivetrain. But I made a discovery: when I release pressure from the crank arm, there's a corresponding click. Moreover, if I remove the pressure slowly the click doesn't occur unless I press the inner and outer chainrings together with my fingers afterwards.

This leads me to the conclusion that the noise is coming from the chainring/bolt/spider interface. I have removed, lubricated and torqued the bolts back (12nm as specified by FSA). But the clicking persists.


texts:
I have a 2016 or 2017 Trek FX2 (if critical I'll look up exact year). Ride it daily for shopping, going to the gym and such. Store it outside, unprotected from rain.  Took it to the store I bought it at to have new pedals and break pads installed. Guy at the shop noticed that the headset was loose. After opening it up (lots of rust inside) he's basically saying it's toast and he wouldn't recommend repairing it. Why? Because combined with the other things that need to be done, the total bill will come to about half the price of a new bike. Better to go with a new bike because this old one will just cause exponentially increasing maintenance and replacement costs going forward.   I don't know the first thing about any of this and there is also a language barrier. I speak the local language where I live reasonably well but for technical discussions like this one it leaves a lot to be desired. (Thus it's also possible that I might have misunderstood parts of what he told me.)

My question here is first whether this sounds plausible, or whether the guy is possibly trying to pull the wool over my eyes.

And secondly if it does sound plausible, is there a better option than simply going for a new bike? How about replacing the frame and headset with a new one?


texts: Is Shimano the only company with a sealed ratchet mechanism in their freehubs?

texts:
Most freehub designs have exposed rachets when the freehub cassette body and hub are disassembled. So much care must be taken to keep the mechanism clean and free from dirt an dust. Shimano's freehub casseste body incorporate the ratchet internally so this isn't an issue during assembly/disassembly.

Two questions:
(1) Do any other manufacturers use internal ratchets in their freehubs?
(2) What is the largest diameter hole in such freehub cassette bodies for through axles (12mm/15mm/17m/20mm) ?


texts: Geometry between 50mm stem and a 65mm stem and riding experience

texts: Will I notice much difference beside just having a slightly longer cockpit between my seat and fork if I upgrade from a 50mm to a 65 mm stem? is this 15mm a significant enough adjustment to make my climbing or downhill riding feel any different? In what ways?


texts: How long should it take to rebuild a wheel?

texts:
I'm planning to replace the hub on my front wheel, from a QR to a 20mm.

How much labor, skill, equipment, etc. does that need, and how much time should I expect a pro to charge for, to do the rebuild?


texts:
I've just removed the mantle of my back tire as it has a hole (probably cut by glass). I wanted to look for a new one, but then I realized that I'm not even certain which size it is.

So I looked on the old mantle and found more numbers than I thought:

vtech EAGLE 42-622 700x42C <MDS> (Max durability System)

700 - 42 (42-622)

NL F024   17

I guess vtech EAGLE is the brand / model name, MDS is just some advertisment. But what do the numbers mean?

(Side question: Living in Germany and biking mainly / only in the city, where and for which mantle should I look?)


texts: Why is it not recommend to put V brake levers on cantilever brakes?

texts: I understand that V brake levers pull more cable out then cantilever brake levers. However, the argument why one shouldn't put V brake levers on cantilever brakes I often hear and also the only one I found by searching is that by doing that, you will not be able to create enough "power" to brake properly. This doesn't make sense to me, if it is true, can someone try to explain why it is true? The thing that does make sense to me is that by having that setup you will not be able to use the brake "half-way", that is, either it will be far from rim, or when you pull the lever slightly it will already be "very tight" to the rim braking "100%".


texts: Coaster brake heat management and lubrication

texts:
I've heard that coaster brakes can reach high temperatures, so it desirable to use grease designed for high temperature applications.
My questions are:

Would a grease labeled max 220 °C be good enough? Or it can get much hotter?
What happens if the grease is not good enough? Will it liquefy and drip out of the hub?
How should you use the brake when going downhill to avoid overheating? Is it better to use it in short bursts, or continuous but not very hard braking?
How hot can it get exactly? A chart showing the heating and cool down rates would be interesting, but I don't think anybody has done the experiment, it's hard to stick a thermometer in the hub (maybe doable with a temperature camera sensor?).


texts: Fox Float RP2 rear shock problem - soft run and hiss sound on first 5-10% of travel

texts: I might have a problem with my Fox Float RP2 rear shock (Giant Reign, 150 mm of travel, bike & shock only 6 months old). When pumped to 200 psi, the shock has a considerably soft run and is making a hissing/sucking noise, both on about first 5-10% of its travel. The rest of shock travel seems to behave OK. What do you think is causing the problem? I read about cavitation (when air/nitrogen penetrates oil chamber) and I think that might be my case. With cavitation, do I need an immediate maintenance or can I use the shock like this for the rest of the year and do the seasonal maintenance afterwards?


texts:
A question came up recently about why people ride fixed-gear bikes. I think you can't reasonably answer that question without first understanding why people ride single-speed bikes.

So, why do they do it?


texts:
I have recently bought an Italian bike that uses Regina valves and I need to replace one of the inner tubes. Since I don't live in Italy and can't find that kind of valve anywhere, I thought of using an inner tube with Presta valve instead since both are very similar.

Is there any reason why I should worry about replacing a Regina valve with Presta?


texts: How to adjust when i am 5'5 foot tall and having a 42 cm roadbike frame?

texts: Im planning to buy a roadbike frameset in my local store but they say that the size of the frame is 42cm and i am 5'5 should i buy that frame?


texts: How can I mount a pannier rack on my (carbon fibre) Trek Madone 4.5?

texts: I want to be able to mount a rack on the back of my trek madone but it has no braze-ons and I can't mount a rack to the QR because of a little wall/lip thing surrounds the QR.


texts: Using non-Shimano link with Shimano chain?

texts:
I know the official answer from Shimano is you can only use their quick link, but practically is it okay to use SRAM or KMC links?

Specifically, I have the Shimano HG-40 chain.


texts: What other tools do I need with my truing stand?

texts:
I just got a truing stand but the manufacturer seems to do a good job of advertising every other accessory under the sun to go with it.  What are the essentials? A wheel dishing tool?  Tension meter etc...?

I'm looking to just true wheels.


texts: Choosing parts for wheel build on a cargo bike conversion

texts:
I am using an old Xtracycle Free Radical to convert my hybrid 90s Specialized CrossRoads to a cargo bicycle.

The Free Radical was originally designed for 26” wheels, but many people used them on 700c bikes using disc brakes.

My plan is to stay with the 700c tires, but move to disc brakes because the 26” to 700c V-brake conversion kit was discontinued a long while ago, and the FreeRadical tail does have an area to mount disc brakes from.

My rims are old Araya 700c-PX 45 rims, but years of using the bike with pad brakes has deeply carved out the rims, so I fear that I have no choice but to replace them both in this project to stay safe. In order to cut down on costs, I’m going to build the wheel set and put together the disc brake in the rear. I’m reading Sheldon Brown’s Wheelbuilding site, but I am having a hard time figuring out what components to use to build these rims and the rear disc.

Here are some details about this build:
I weigh about 125 lbs. The Xtracycle can haul up to 200lbs (additional). I doubt I’ll ever haul 200 lbs, I’m mainly going to be getting groceries and running errands with it. The Xtracycle can only take a disc brake with a 203mm rotor. I’m attempting to build this economically, so I’m hoping for decent quality, at an affordable price that is lower than buying pre-made new wheels. I do have access to a bicycle co op where I may be able to harvest used parts.

Do you have any suggestions on what type of rim, spokes, hub, rotor and brakes I should use?


texts: what is this hole for on a B&M Luxos U light?

texts:
Installing a luxos U. I've got a pair of others on other bikes, but those were installed by an OEM in Europe. The process is straightforward: Crimp some spade connectors on, then connect hub to light input tabs. But here's a curiosity. What's that hole for right there above the positive connector? (This is the bottom / rear of the light, so that faces down.)
The factory installed lights on the other bikes have a wire coming out of there, about 2cm long, terminated with heat shrink wrap. The hole gets no mention in the manual, and I can't imagine (though I didn't take it apart to look) that there's an interior connector to the positive side, nor why there would be.
Anyone know what that hole would be for? It's not the lowest point on the light, so it's probably not a drain, though maybe it could be a drain for that portion of the shell, and my OEM added the little bit of wire to serve as a drip path that takes water away from the actual connection?


texts:
I recently purchased a Mongoose Malus, I would like to change out the front gear so I have a true granny gear (ie really low gear) and am not concerned with the top end speed.

Where can I purchase and what is recommended and how difficult will this be? This bike is mostly used around the ranch at very slow speeds in sand, grass, gravel and rocky areas mostly not even on a path.


texts: Bike chain slips off sprocket as I pedal during repairs. Any idea why?

texts:
I am having an issue with a 26 inch Beach Cruiser.

Everything was put together by a bike shop however one of the chains slipped off the sprocket during transport home. When I went to put it back on, which should have been easy (flip the bike on its handle bars and reattach the chain by taking off the back wheel and pulling it backward further into the rear dropouts to apply tension to the chain).

As a precaution I test pedaled it while it was still upside down the chain still slipped off.

I'm pretty sure the bike kit came with a second chain tensioner and for some reason I don't have it, probably due to bike shop error.   If anyone can confirm that these kits come with two, I'd appreciate it. I hate to think I'm missing a part when I'm actually not.

Side note: The bike is also motorized, I don't know if that was a needed piece of information or not.

My question is, how do I get the chain to stay on when I pedal?


texts:
I am 100% new to the dynamo world, and after unpacking it I was surprised how it behaves. I already googled and found out that some of my worries are "normal", but for some of the issues observed I didn't find explanation (or "it is normal" confirmation).
I am talking about just hub, I didn't build a wheel yet. I am holding/squeezing axle nuts at one hand, and try to turn hub body with the other.
When I hold hub at hand and try to turn it there is a lot of friction, there are distinct points (some like stop points) where hub feels click-in (there is not audible click). Far, far analogy but it resembles the rear hub somewhat -- there is also some friction and there are also some special points.
Friction in dynamo hub I have is much greater. Gathering from all "it is normal" I take my hub is not broken. Yet.

But there is more -- the rear hub movement is predictable, I turn it by hand, the hub has no inertia so it stays exactly when I stop turning it, in other words any point/angle is valid point/angle. With dynamo hub if I am less than midway between points it bounces back by itself. So there are only X designated points/angles at which it can rest. And as for friction -- forward turning is hard, turning it backward is even harder (at first I thought it is not possible at all).
So my question is -- is this "more" section above normal as well, or those are odd even in dynamo-hubs world and I probably have broken hub (or terrible quality one)?


texts: I have heard there can be issues when dissimilar metals are in prolonged contact.  Would that apply to titanium and chromoly? Ive got may eye on a new titanium fork for my old chromoly frame bike.


texts: Carbon frame that is designed for strength and durability rather than lightness?

texts:
Are there such brands who have overbuilt carbon frame that is intended to last longer? Most if not all frames nowadays seem to always talk about being lighter stiffer, but I never seen one made to be strong and last longer. I know modern carbon are probably plenty durable, but I want at least one bike that will last long so I can proudly show to my grandchildren that it was my bike 'back in the day', and still being able to ride it.
Quick Google search doesn't help.

Otherwise I had to resort on titanium.


texts: Difference between 22x635 and 40x635 wheels/inner tubes?

texts:
Today I had my first encounter with the wildly variegated world of inner tubes / tires / wheels sizes. My wheel shows this, no info readable on the tire:

I already discovered that 28x1.5 and 28x1 1/2 are two completely different sizes, as I bought the former inner tube and I couldn't manage to fit it in (it was too large). Now my question is:

I found a shop that sell 40-635 (28x1 1/2) inner tubes. Are they the same as this 22x635 (28x1 1/2)? Can I buy it safely or the tire itself may play a role?

If they are, why does the first number change so much? I thought it was the width expressed in millimeters!


texts: Are pedal washers necessary on a carbon crankset?

texts:
I'm wondering if pedal washers are necessary, or even recommended, when riding with a carbon crank, in order to avoid damage to one's crank arms?

The main reason I ask is because I prefer to ride with the smallest possible Q-Factor, and having any type of washer in place increases this insofar as ones feet will be positioned farther apart.

  The Q Factor of a bicycle is the distance between the pedal attachment points on the crank arms, when measured parallel to the bottom bracket axle.  It may also be referred to as the "tread" of the crankset. The term was coined by Grant Petersen during his time at Bridgestone Bicycles.

Can I safely ride my carbon crank, sans pedal washers, without worrying about long term damage to the crank arms?


texts:
I have a problem where my chain is not engaging on the big chainring.
The chain is not touching the FD so, that is ruled out.

Is it possible that my chain is not compatible with my crank?

My chain is a 9 speed Shimano and my crank is an entry-level Shimano 3x crank. This only happens when I shift to the biggest chain ring, it does not happen on the smallest and mid chainring.

The chain and cassette are brand new, while the crankset has had 6 months daily use.


texts: Is it normal that front wheel bends when front disk brakes are applied?

texts: When I apply front disk brakes I see slight bend in the rim and wheel. Is this normal or I have a low quality parts.


texts: Early Klein Mountain Bike - need suggested component rebuild ideas

texts:
This classic ride, (a hand-me-down, no less,) has served me well for more than a few years. The componentry is showing its age and the drivetrain really needs to be replaced, but I can find no specs on the BB threading or the rear fork width (if that's the term) so I can get the right upgrades. I'm planning to use this stunning contraption to commute to work, which combines mostly suburban-urban streets with a little dirt thrown in.

Can anyone help me find specs on this wonderful ride so I can hit the road when the warm weather kicks in? Much appreciated.


texts: Why would I choose a bike trainer over a stationary bike?

texts:
I was planning to buy a stationary bike to use it at home during the pandemic, but I thought it might be better to buy a bike with a trainer at home.
Do you think it is a good idea? I don't know about how much resistance the trainer provides and if it can be a replacement for the stationary bike?
I don't have any bike right now, and I am thinking to buy a Giant Talon 2/3 (hardtail MTB) to use it in summer and with a trainer, it is possible to use it at home. But, I have never used a trainer and I don't know if it is a good option.
Edit
I bought a Giant Talon 3 (hardtail MTB), and I would thankful if you can recommend some budget trainers.


texts: How do I use retro drop down handlebars with no hoods?

texts:
The preface this, I am just going to say that I am awful on a bicycle.

I have recently gotten a bike that I love, it's beautiful, and I love riding it, however the drop handlebars have no hoods so the brakes are on the tops, and I have no idea where to put my hands. I want to keep them as close to the brakes as possible because of the heavy traffic in London, and because I am not quite confident enough to be able to move my hands back in to position quickly. The problem with this is that because my hands are so close together I have less control of my bike, and I'm worried that I'm going to fall off.

Does anyone have any recommendations about what I should be doing, or am I going to need to get some new handlebars?

The Bike is a Cooper Revival 2012.


texts: Help needed identifying mystery screws on 1940s tandem

texts:
My tandem has two small screws above each bottom bracket, one on each side (so four in total).  I've not seen them on any other bike, and I can't figure out what they're for!  Suggestions so far have been (a) letting water out (except that they're on the top) and (b) putting oil in (except that I didn't think that was how you're meant to service a bottom bracket - I thought you had to take it apart).  I know they're not for an eccentric bracket, as there's other screws elsewhere for that.  Picture of screws on rear bracket here: http://s8.postimage.org/z4evs6791/IMG_1950.jpg

In case it's any help, original bike spec page is here: http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_40/CB15.jpg

All help much appreciated!


texts: Wanting to change from bar end to road shifters

texts:
Just purchased a Co-op ADV 3.1 and the gearing is great, problem is I am hating the bar end shifters and would like to apply road bike shifters while maintaining the MTB gearing. It came with Deore mechs front and rear (assuming 10 spd specific) and figure I'll have to replace both as well, has anyone here had good success with something like this, and if so could you give which mechs and shifters work well? Seeing as I'll most likely have to replace both mechs and new brifters I don't really have a problem switching over to Sram if they have the best solution without having to add a shiftmate into the equation. Please help.

Well thank you for the info and such quick responses. Think I’m going to attempt a Tiagra setup with Deore (rd-m591)rear mech (research shows no such luck with the front mech). I’ll update the page as I try with my results in case someone else finds this page looking to do something similar, I know jtek makes adapter that would work (Shiftmate 6 on the rear and Shiftmate 7 front) but at around $60 apiece (not to mention additional components to fail) its still $10 more than the rear mech and almost $40 more than the front. I know it can be done, for example check out the specialized AWOL expert. Emailed them to see if they’d give me the specifics but not expecting an answer unless I actually buy the thing lol. Also I’m considering a 105 setup (other than the rear mech)...anyone have experience?

Just an update, got an email from specialized about the setup on the AWOL expert...
“Front shifter: Tiagra ST-4703
Rear shifter: Tiagra ST-4700
Front derailleur:  Tiagra FD-4703
Rear derailleur: RD-4700 GS

The rear derailleur for the 2018 AWOL is a Tiagra rear derailleur, so you won't have to worry about any adapters.”.

Looks pretty close to what I’ve been looking for, but using the road components means I’d also need to change my cassette and chainrings as well as still deal with a bottom pull front mech....looks like I’ll be going with the Shiftmate 7 for my existing front derailleur just for ease of installation, oh well.


texts: Tour de France RV/Campervan parking policy

texts: Are there any rules regarding parking an RV/Campervan alongside the Tour de France course?  Can you just park anywhere that isn't yet closed off?  How long before the race comes by do you need to get there?  How soon after the race can you leave?  I'm asking specifically about stages in the French Alps.


texts: Best setup for lightweight cycle touring with Ti road bike

texts:
Should I use rack or trailer? Touring would be B & B normally, but might involve some minimal-gear camping (no cooking) occasionally.

If a rack - what type is best? - there are no braze-ons for a rack, but the Ti frame should carry weight OK and the wheels are strong alloy with steel spokes. Would heel clearance be an issue?

If a trailer - is there a danger of cars pulling across behind and hitting the trailer? I also worry about jack-knifing on steep downhills, and being tempted to take more weight than the (Ultegra) brakes can stop.

Thanks.

PS I'm pretty light myself - about 65kg


texts:
I was given an old 2006 Trek 1000 and I've been working on replacing everything.

I just ordered a new Shimano Tiagra 4600 groupset last night and now I need to get wheels and tires.

The bike currently has 700x25c wheels on it, with a 23mm tire in the front and 25mm tire in the back.  Both are completely flat and I haven't even ridden on the bike.

Here's pictures of the brake/frame clearance with all of the old components on.
http://imgur.com/a/lRQgI

I'll be commuting with around 25-30 pounds every day, ~70 mi/week on mostly flat terrain.  I'm 5'9" and 150 lbs.

My priorities are:

Reliability
Speed
Quick repair time
Comfort

With that being said, what size tires should I put on new 700x25c wheels?

Thanks!


texts:
I bought a new Giro Savant helmet online and, after unboxing, noticed that the EPS foam seemed to be quite jagged and uneven at the intersection with the dial system (see photos below).

This does not look like damage to me and the foam was probably cut that way. I have seen a few images/unboxing videos online that also seem to have quite jagged foam at the intersection, so this suggests that maybe most of the Savant helmets are like this.
I am not bothered with the cutting of the foam if it is just cosmetic but obviously I would need to know that the helmet is not compromised before I can use it.
I would really appreciate any advice so that I can determine whether the helmet is safe to use.


texts:
I usually use double butted 2mm spokes that are 1.8mm in the middle.
In the past, though, I have used 1.8mm straight guage spokes when I was able to drill the holes in the hub flanges myself to a smaller diameter of about 2mm in order to fit the smaller spokes.
However it seems like almost all commercial hubs have holes about 2.5-2.6mm for use with 2mm spokes.
Is it ok to use 1.8mm spokes on normal hubs drilled for 2mm spokes? I still have some 1.8 spokes and I would like to use them.
If not, why do 1.8mm spokes exist, because I don't see any special hubs drilled to fit them? 1.8mm spokes are easy to find, but hubs with special spoke holes are not, so does that mean it's okay to use 1.8mm spokes in normal hubs? Is there a certain largest diameter of spoke hole that is recommended (i.e. no larger than 2.5mm)?


texts: I have a bike i wanna fix for my 2yr old grandson but have no ideas

texts: I want to make a monsters inc bike for him


texts:
I currently have a mountain bike that has 6 gears in the back and 3 chainrings in the front. Is there a way I can change the front 3 chainrings to just 1 chainring using the middle chainring?
I'm sorry if people have a hard time understanding this but I am new to biking and mountain bikes and I really don't know what I'm doing.


texts:
It is generally accepted that disc brakes will offer better performance in the rain on a road bike.
But from reading many articles on the topic of disc vs rim brakes, I have yet to find any explanation of why this is the case.
The biggest issue with braking performance in the wet with rim brakes is that the rims will accumulate water and dirt which needs to be cleared off by the pads before they start to slow the bike properly. But to me it seems that discs should get just as wet and dirty.
So why are disc brakes so much better in the rain?


texts: Putting a Presta stem nut inside the rim?

texts:
Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm not sure how it happened, but when I went to replace my tire today, I found that I had two stem lock nuts on my valve. One inside the rim and one in the normal place. Not sure if the shop did this for me a awhile back or if I did this absentmindedly last time I changed it. Anyway, it didn't cause any problems and I put at least a few hundred miles on it like that.
Any reason to do that? Thanks!


texts: Do you need brakes on a trainer / on rollers?

texts: I'm building a bike from scratch and old parts for home-trainer and roller use only. Do I need brakes or can I cheap out?


texts: Improving turning radius on an under-seat steering recumbent?

texts:
This under-seat steering tadpole has a pretty large turning radius. The limitation seems to be that the handlebars will bump into the seat. When this happens the actual steering linkage seems like it would have more travel that could be used.

I'm looking for advice on how potentially to improve this. I'm not adverse to some new parts or modifications if that seems necessary / beneficial, but obviously if there is some kind of adjustment that would be worth trying first.

I can start taking things apart but thought it was worth looking for insight here before just monkeying around. In particular I don't want to mess up the wheel alignment or something like that.

Here are photos of the steering linkage etc.:

Its a Sun EZ-Tad CX. Not the lightest thing out there but fun to ride :)


texts: Different size tyre has arrived than ordered

texts:
I normally get my local bike shop to change my tyres but due to the COVID19 Pandemic they are not open.
I have a Ridgeback Terrain 2 that came fitted with 27.5 x 2.10 tyres
I ordered that size of tyre but the one that has just arrived is in fact 27.5 x 2.25. I have no idea what this all means and looking up various articles on the internet has just left me even more confused.
Therefore I thought I would ask people on here as I am sure someone will quickly be able to tell me whether or not I can put this tyre on my bike or if I need the supplier to replace it with the size I actually ordered.
Thanks in advance
Mike


texts: Babies on Bakfietsen: How young is too young?

texts:
When is it safe to transport a baby on a bakfiets? How does one know when a child is old enough for this?

By "safe" I mean, protecting the child's brain from damage due to road vibration, pothole jolts, etc.

And by the baby would be strapped into a car seat anchored in the box of a bakfiets cargo bike.


texts: Should I use slime-filled inner tubes or anti-puncture lining?

texts:
My outer tyres were really worn and my inner tubes had 3 patches each (and still deflating) so I decided that I had to replace both. I have found some pretty nice outer tyres but as the place I usually ride is full of spiky plants, I thought I should either use slime-filled inner tubes or anti-puncture lining. The lining is probably a bit more expensive and difficult to find but the slime-filled inner tubes have some bad reviews.
What should I use?
Edit: I made some reaserch on tubeless systems and DIY tubeless is an option if it helps.


texts: Why is there a koozie on this bike's chainstay?

texts:
A friend of mine recently purchased a used hardtail mountain bike. As he showed it to me, I noticed that there's what looks like a koozie wrapped around the chainstay, towards the rear axle.

The branding on the koozie is the same as the make of the frame (Stevens), and it's being held on by velcro. It doesn't appear on the manufacturer's website as far as I can tell.

The outer layer seems like it's nylon, and there's some minimal padding.

What's the purpose of this thing, and what do you even call it?

I've included a photo for reference.


texts: Which Phil Wood bottom brackets are compatible with Shimano XT cranks?

texts: As far as I can tell just the Outboard BB is.


texts: Replaced chain, now the chain falls onto the small chaining

texts:
I rode for a little while longer then I should have with my old chain, so I replaced the old chain and cassette.  But now when I ride in the big ring, the drivetrain makes a horrible sound and the chain falls from the big ring to the small ring.  The teeth on the chainring are looking a bit shark-tooth like.

I don't know if this is related but I am using this new ceramic chain-lube.

I don't know if I have to re-adjust the derailleur as it seems to shift up and down properly.


texts: I bought the a new bike at the local BMX shop but what brand is this logo? I don't have any idea.


texts: Bicycle acts like it's braking when I walk it

texts: When I walk my bicycle, every few feet it stops like I've pulled the hand brake. It will roll some more then stop again. What do I need to do to fix it?


texts: Diamondback Sorrento for first starter bike?

texts:
I'm looking to get my first bike since high school.  I'm wanting to do paved roads but mostly light trails (no jumps, rocks etc., but want it to be sturdy if I go off-road).  Since this is my first bike and I don't know how often I'll get to use it (once per week?), I'm wanting to stay in the $300/$400 range.  I understand this range gives me really basic, cookie-cutter Chinese bikes, and I'm fine with that for my first one.  The Sorrento seems to feel right sitting on it, though I haven't had a chance to ride it more than a few feet in a little circle in-store.

My questions are:

Can you confirm that the Diamondback Sorrento is a good choice for me?
It comes from Dick's, which is, of course, not a good place to expect a bike expert.  Would purchasing it from Dick's/Amazon and then taking it to my local bike shop to do the assembly/initial setup be a good idea? or will they tell me why I shouldn't have gone to Dick's? (I just want it set up correctly and I'm no bike expert)

Thanks!


texts: Steel (531) road bike conversion to disc practicability

texts: Are the stays on an old PX-10 frame (531) sturdy enough for disc brakes? I ask this, because this frame has nice, wide stays for wide rims and tires for use as a bad-weather bike. I would consider having disc mounts brazed on if I knew the stays could withstand the forces.


texts: When I get on my bike and pedal when the right hits the top I can’t pedal and it stays and it keeps happening when the right goes to the top it stops and I can’t keep pedaling how to fix and any thoughts


texts: Wilier oversize bottom bracket bearing cups for Shimano crank

texts: My bike frame is a Wilier Imperiale with Campagnolo crankset. I am changing the crank to a Shimano 6800. The bottom bracket does not fit to the Shimano one. It is old version WILIER OVERSIZE BOTTOM BRACKET. I searched it but someone says it is BB94 while someone says it is BB90. I am quite confused about the real specification of the bearing cups. Now I don't even know what key words I should use to search the replacement item to buy. Thanks.


texts: does anyone still make competitive chromoly frames for road biking?

texts:
Chromoly frames can be constructed relatively light if the quality is high enough.

Does anyone know of any brands that concentrate on making modern chromoly frames for entry level competitive cycling?  i.e. litespeed is to titanium
as x is to chromoly

Thanks!


texts: Why does my crank go in reverse and my chain drop when I am not on the bike?

texts:
I have a problem of my chain dropping.  What happens is when we stop and I unclip from the pedals, the crank rotates in reverse and the chain drops.  I am in the large chain ring when this happens.
Could it be that my chain is too short and the tension from the derailleur is causing the crank to rotate in reverse.  I have no problem changing into the lowest gear.
I have a larger chain rings on this bike what has resulted in me riding in the large chain ring and the large cog, cross chaining, or higher on the rear cog more often.


texts: What are the reasons for these two very different post mount adapter designs?

texts:
I'm looking to adapt my 160mm post mount front fork to accept a 180mm rotor.

As I'm looking between adapters, I find them falling into two very distinct categories, and I'm wondering if there are any trade offs or reasons for preferring one style over the other.

The first style bolts to the 160mm post mounts with separate standard length bolts, then juts out farther and drops down to accept the brake with standard length bolts.

The second looks smaller and lighter, and comes with longer bolts and rounded washers that go through both the brakes and the adapter and into the 160mm post mount.

Here is the difference when mounted:

Would there be any particular advantages of one way or another?


texts: Does bike geometry or wheel affect maximum cog size?

texts:
I got a used Cannondale Super X 105 during the winter and when I was getting it ready for the summer, I couldn't index the rear derailleur properly. It wouldn't shift to the largest cog and shifting to the smallest cog was iffy. I took it in to a bike shop to get it looked at (full tune-up while at it) and the feedback was that the cassette (11/34 I think) was too big for the bike and the derailleur was too small (plus bent cage which I suspected). Tried to see if I could keep the cassette and get a larger derailleur but the mechanic insisted the cassette is not right and would need replacement. Maximum I'd be able to put on would be a 30T.
I've searched online to see if frame size limits your maximum cog size but couldn't find anything. So now I'm wondering if he was simply assuming I would want a same for same replacement of the bent derailleur.
I already spent almost $200 replacing all bearings and BB  (total blindside there) which was what I had budgeted for the drive train so I don't want to spend money I don't have to.


texts:
I have the RockShox MONARCH RT3 damper on my enduro bike. I want to upgrade the damper to a one with remote lockout since I OTB'ed twice while touching the lockout under my seat.

What do I have to know if I want to upgrade it and can I do it by my self?


texts: keep going off-axis on big jumps i don't know how to stop it?

texts: I've been riding for about 5-6 years, and can speed through tech, can do hips, speed-jumps 5-8 meters... but every time theres a jump with a steep lip, or involves me going quite high, i keep coming off-axis/ tilt mid-air and its starting to mess with my confidence, desperately need help how do i stop this, and jump normally?


texts: Stiff but short daily commute leading to "heavy" legs

texts:
I'm a long time bike commuter (over 10 years), I was living some 4.5 kms from my workplace, a mostly flat commute (well, maybe 40 m up-and-down). After two years of that commute, it had made my significantly healthier and fast.

A year ago, I moved to a place a bit closer to my work, but much higher. I have now a 3.3 km ride home going 160 m up, most of which in the last kilometer (maybe 10% average in the last bit). While I had no problems with my commute just after moving in, over the time, it became increasingly more difficult, and now, I always have "heavy" legs when I start the ride home, and I take much less pleasure in my commute...

Do you have tips to avoid this ?


texts:
I don't know much about bicycles, and I have relatively little experience with them.  I bike for fun, or to get around the city, not for sport.

Recently I bought a BTWIN Rockrider 340 mountain bike, in size M. My height is 168 cm.

After going out for a ~35 km ride, I found it somewhat uncomfortable and I got a back ache.  The handlebar seems too low.  It's much more comfortable and relaxing to just touch it with my fingertips instead of holding it properly, as I don't have to bend down that much.

How can I tell whether I got the wrong size bike for my height or whether I simply did not use the correct posture?

In the country where I am currently, exchanging the bike after such a ride is probably not possible, or very difficult, so it is really a last resort to try.  While I did try the bike before buying, the store was in the city, on a high floor of a multi-story shopping centre, so there was very limited space and I didn't realize the problem. While people on this site might not think much of this bike, for me it was a fairly pricey one, mostly having had second hand bikes before. Therefore I would really like to make sure that I did not get the wrong size, or otherwise correct the problem somehow.

I got this bike for getting out of the city and going to places inaccessible by public transport, mostly rocky dirt roads.


texts:
I'm doing up a bike that seems to have been sitting in a shed for the last 25 years.
It has a Shimano 105SC groupset (93-99) with 8-speed st-1055 STI shifters.
As seems to be the norm for these units the factory grease has congealed into a solid mass over time.

I found a good forum post and video tutorial on how to partially disassemble them for cleaning and re-greasing.

It was fairly straightforward - it took some time to work all the parts and flush the old gunk out of the works but both units are now totally clean and have no signs of wear and the left unit shifts through the positions with ease.

However the right-hand unit is still jammed. After spending much time I have figured out that the issue is with one of the pawls - I believe it to be the one referred to as the index pawl in the forum post linked above.

The other 3 pawls move freely on their shafts and spring back gently. However the index pawl is very stiff. I've spend a lot of time spraying lubricant onto the pin and working it but it remains stuck. Based on that, and on the feel of it, I think it's more likely to be due to the tension on the spring rather than the shaft being gummed up.

When shifting, the bar (see picture) moves in the direction of the arrow and engages with the rear of the pawl. This should cause it to pivot and allow the mechanism to shift. However the pawl is so stiff the pressure of the bar is not enough to make it move. I can use a small flat bladed screwdriver to depress the rear of the pawl to force it to pivot, which requires a fair amount of force, and this allows the unit to shift as normal.

There doesn't appear to be any way of adjusting the tension on the pawl spring.

EDIT:
Alternatively could it be that the bar is slightly bent and is not engaging fully with the pawl? It's hard to tell...


texts: Newer Shimano R7000 pedals having smaller contact area than older R5800?

texts:
I was comparing Shimano PD-5800 and the newer PR-7000 SPD-SL pedals. Judging from the metal contact plate on them, the newer model seems to have a far smaller contact surface area.

Is this correct judgment or are the metal plates only part of contact area?

PD-5800 SPD-SL pedals-

Newer PD-7000 SPD-SL pedals-


texts: I don't have any chain oil right now, but I have some gear oil left over from working on my car.  Would it be an effective chain lubricant?  It's listed as 80W90, but reading the Wikipedia article suggests that that's not equivalent to motor oil viscosity ratings.


texts: What's the best technique for removing a tyre from the rim?

texts:
This question talks about fitting a tyre back onto a rim, but I'd like to know how to get the tyre off in the first place. Especially if the tyre is very tight, or the dip in the middle of the rim section is very shallow.

Most of my bikes have 406 wheels, and I use Marathon Plus tyres which are quite rigid, so they're really hard to remove without breaking tyre levers or pinching the tube.

What's the best way to get those tyres off the rim so I can fix a puncture?

(I've just realised we don't actually have this question, or any answers!)


texts: Reduce Resale Value to Avoid Theft? (Uglify)

texts:
"Uglify your bike" was mentioned here as a theft deterrent.

I have a 20102009 Canondale F3 and I'm thinking about locking it up in Manhattan from time to time. I think that Uglifying will help.

How should one best uglify a bike? How would you do this without disassembling the bike? Would spray paint stick to the current paintjob, or would I need to use paint remover or to sand the current paint off? What about the components? I don't want to ruin the bike in the process of trying to keep it, but I would prefer not to remove all components and cables, etc.

Note: I know that having another beater bike and other options are great, but I'm trying to figure out how to ride my bike and keep it from being stolen (or even looked at).

Edit: I've removed a part on "Does anyone have any evidence that uglyfying does or does not work..."  It's now here.


texts: I am installing them on a very rare BMX frame.the bottom  bracket shell measures 66mm.I believe I'm looking for a spindle length of approximately 110mm.it also has to have English threads.my question to you campy gurus as what part number am I looking for or combinations of measurements that I can shop for? also any leaves and or ideas on exactly what I'm trying to do.


texts: Chain slipping off from singlespeed rear cog

texts:
After I have worn out the cogs and chain to the point where my chain tensioner couldn't keep up anymore, I have replaced my drive train pieces, the axle and spacer are still the same.

So I went from:

unidentified front wide/narrow chain ring (42T)
Gusset 1-er converter 15T
SRAM PC-830 (114 Links, 8speed, 3/32")

to:

absoluteBLACK CX Round wide/narrow chain ring (42T)
Shimano CS-MX66 3/32" sprocket 14T
Connex 8SX Chain

I switched from 15T to 14T, there is the usual winter surface grime on it (and cleaned up twice already) and switched the chain/sprocket combination because the Gusset conversion kit seemed a bit too wide for being on spec.

That said, ever since I changed parts my chain keeps slipping off the rear cog and already brought me twice into dangerous situations. I've looked around and tried to eliminate the causes, the chain is straight, the spacers on the conversion kit are just like they always have been, the pieces should individually fit. The new chain is a around half the weight of the SRAM chain.

Pictures:

1st Bolting, 2nd Tensioner, 3rd spacers, dashing is the freehub (approx):

Order of elements:

Closeup:
level clamped to chainring to ensure the chain is straight:
axle picture when I initially bought the bike with the original parts:
picture with chain installed:


texts: Fork lube. Should I use it? If so how often?

texts: I ride a mountain bike with front suspension. I've recently seen fork lube for sale on an online retailer. This got me thinking. Do I need to be using fork lube? How does it help? If I bought some how often do I need to use it and how do I apply it?


texts: Which clothing brands are most suitable for very tall men?

texts:
I always have issues finding cycling clothing that fits my body shape. I am 196cm / 6ft 5in of (reasonably) slim build (but certainly not skinny). When buying a jersey that is XL they often fit me perfectly across the chest and arms but are never long enough - often leaving a drafty lower back area. I don't want to go to XXL because it will be too baggy across the chest and I'll take on the son wearing his Dad's suit kind of look.

Like most clothing (not just cycling) I find that sizes >XL are more geared towards salad-dodgers rather than those of us with long backs.

Are there any brands of clothing known for producing tops/jerseys with extra long length? What brands do other riders of similar size/body shape go for?


texts: Is there a widely used service to report bike theft?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Are bicycle registration websites any use for recovering stolen bikes?

Or to say, a website where stolen bikes could be reported and anyone could check if for reports of a given brand/model or serial number.

I don't mean a police report. A mean an open service with data accesible to any user.


texts: What is the safest type of pedal for all-weather city cycling?

texts:
I've been commuting by bike for many years on different types of strapless platform pedal and have always been nervous about clip-in pedals.  Excluding any accidents caused by getting used to a new pedal, what type is safest for all-weather commuting in the city with traffic?

There are lots of different types of pedal:

Platform, no toe clip.
Platform with half toe clip, no straps.
Platform with toe clip and straps.
Clip in, of which there are many types.

It's not obvious to me which ones minimize the risk of causing an accident, or are the safest in the event of an accident.

Is it safer being clipped in to minimize risk of your foot slipping and causing a fall?  Or is it safer to be unclipped so that if you do fall you detach from your bike easily?

Is there much difference between the types of clip-in pedal?  There are road, SPD, and SPD "Click'R" (designed for easier release).

I can't find much online aside from anecdotes, so I'd really like to know if there has been a study done on this.


texts: I need to replace my rim spokes for Schwinn 28" men and women's bikes which size do I order? and where can I order them? thanks


texts: Recently washed road bike now squeaks when pedaling or coasting

texts:
I just did a wash in what I felt was the proper way (I've watched the tutorials lol) of my Cannondale CAAD12 roadie. I lubed it up like I normally do with some dry teflon lube on the chain and some spray teflon lube in the important bits... go out riding today and it's squeaky as hell, fairly high pitched. Happens when pedalling and when I coast (for a bit after letting off the gas). Where should I start to look? Did I mess my BB?
Thanks guys in advance you usually help me out quite a bit!


texts: Rear hub assembly becoming loose, not allowing backward spinning

texts:
I bought a used Kelly's Swag 10 2016 and it came with KLS (Kelly's inhouse wheels rebranding).
The rear hub was not allowing to back pedal freely. When backpedaling, or trying to set the pedals in a comfortable position to start from a stop, the cassette was not spinning backwards following the pedals, making the chain drop onto the chain stay all the time.
This is the assembly:

I went down and disassemble it, cleaned everything, re-greased the ball bearings and put everything back together.
No matter how much I tight 1 against 2, and 3 against 4, leaving no room for the hub bearings to have any play (but still 100% free to move both directions) they become loose again and the issue comes back.
Note that, as far as I know, the numbered parts should not spin once the wheel is mounted. However, when the issue does happen, the they seem to spin on the axle as well, along with the wheel.
So here are the questions:

How do I tighten the assembly so the nuts don't spin with the wheel and become loose?
Is the assembly missing any washers or pieces that could potentially be causing the nuts to rub onto the frame creating the extra friction to loosen them?
What's the proper name for this assembly and can I get spare parts for it? can I do it without having to change the hub itself and rebuild the wheel?
Is it possible to replace it with sealed bearings? that would make it a lot easier to maintain.

Thanks a lot!


texts: Converting friction shifters to SIS or STI shifters

texts:
Edit: I'm now worried the main issue might be if it's at all possible to mount cable stops to the top mount position the cables exit the DT into the shifters.
As I mentioned, I'm not there to take more photos at the moment, but you could see a bit better if you open the photo attached to max size.
I do actually prefer STI, realized this after posting. need to understand if that's ruled out, and if so - if there are any SIS shifters that would fit as replacement.
I hope there's a solution that doesn't require serious engineering.

Edit 2:
Attaching pics I found for someone with roughly the same bike who performed the same conversion I'm trying to make.
It requires some machining, but if I can do that, it might be the better option in my opinion over SIS. *I still don't even know if I can get SIS shifters to fit the mount I have.
Also attaching better pictures of my top mounted shifters - fitted on a boss that isn't identical, although the machined part I require is probably the same.
For the part I need to prepare, I'm still waiting to hear from the owner of the bike in the photo, hoping to get a few more angles and possibly dimensions so I can replicate it. I'm curious about the reverse angle, probably showing how the exposed cables go into the new piece.

The last two pics show how the cables are currently routed under the BB

Surprisingly this seems more crude than the guide system on an earlier 80-81 model, with a practically identical frame:

This is continuing another thread I started, asking advice on whether I should buy a used groupset.
The most thorough advice I got there, suggested replacing my 6s freewheel to a 7s one, and couple that with 8s STI shifters - my purpose was actually converting to STI.
I'm now trying to figure out if I might be better overall converting to 7s SIS.
Arguments for 8s STI:

I was told 8s STI shifters should work fine with a 7s freewheel, and that even the people at Shimano said so.
Brifters are easier to use.

Cons:

some people say 8s shifters with a 7s freewheel isn't a perfect match
I'll have to use cable stops, I'm still not sure how to go about this on my frame - the tutorials I saw had the break cables routed outside the frame, not inside it, and they were also positioned at the side of the downtube

Arguments for 7s SIS:
Its all pretty much said above -

Should be no argument about compatibility with a 7s freewheel
I don't have to deal with the cable stop issue, easier installation overall.

Cons:

Less comfortable shifting
My old friction shifters were so finicky that I'm prejudiced against all downtube shifters

Anyone with experience and opinions to contribute?
It would be great to understand if there's anything special I need to take into account considering the position of my current shifters and the routing through the tube.
Thanks
Editing to answer a question I got:
The frame is aluminum, with 126mm spacing. Which means it's not a candidate for cold setting, and therefore can't take anything more than a 7s freewheel - as far as I understand. And as Nathan pointed out in the previous thread I linked to, the dropouts are enormous and might not be great for flexing. I'm not there to measure the actual spacing, but the literature has it as 126


texts: How often should the headset be tightened?

texts:
I live in an area with a lot of potholes and commute daily (between 10-20 miles depending) on a modern road bike. Today while coming in hard (18+mph) to a stop, I went over a worn paving layer with the front heavily loaded. I heard a loud CLACK, and my first thought was to look to the carbon fork. No cracks, but it got my mind on to my head set and head tube. (It was probably just the rear derailleur swinging out and coming down on the B screw.)

What's the minimum mileage interval for headset tightening, and what are the symptoms that indicate it's time? (It's not covered in the Optimal Maintenance question.)


texts: Using 9 speed Deore front shifter with 10 speed Ultegra front Deraileur

texts:
I am trying to build a bike out of all the spare parts I have in my garage. I found a 3x9 Deore front shifter, 3x10 Ultegra front d and crankset. Would they work together?

By the way, I am building a 3x1 drivetrain, with a Shimano Alfine 20t chain tensioner.

Cheers!


texts: Can I secure a 12v battery to my bicycle to charge it? And then attach a 12v horn to it?

texts:
I'm from the Netherlands, so I mean a Dutch style bicycle, as in:

Then I want to attach a 12 volt horn to it. I could just put it in the basket. It doesn't necessarily need to be charged while pedaling, or it can just be partly charged, but just that it runs out of power a bit slower. Then I'd like to attach a horn to it.

Would this be possible?


texts: How to assess safety of carbon frame after crash?

texts: I was recently hit by a car which pulled onto a roundabout.  The driver hadn't seen me.  The car hit me hard enough to actually snap the rim of my rear wheel.  The bike has a carbon fibre frame and fork.  It looks OK but the rear wheel is totalled I can't ride it.  How should I assess whether to rebuild or replace the bike?


texts: How can I tell the difference between a J.I.S. and ISO square taper bottom bracket?

texts:
I have a square taper bottom bracket. How can I tell whether it is a J.I.S. or ISO taper with a minimum amount of disassembly?

FWIW, it's a Ritchey from 2004. However, it would be nice to get answers that apply to other brands as well.


texts: Change the angle of the arc of downtube / stem shifter lever to make it an alternative thumb shifter?

texts:
I want to mount the following SunRace clamp-on shifter set horizontally as a "thumb" shifter on a straight MTB handlebar (22.2mm).  I will remove the left lever and only use the right with the clamp.

The problem is that the lever is not easy to reach because it swings from parallel with the handlebar to straight forward.  I would like to have the angle of the full swing of the lever go from a little towards me to a little forward.

Is there an easy way to change the angle of these stem-mount shift levers (which are almost the same as downtube shift levers) by about 45 deg?

Note (in second pic) that these are meant for stem mount, so there is a cable housing stop for the part of the shift cable housing that goes from the handlebar to a downtube stop.


texts: Healthiest bike posture for slower long rides

texts:
I'm looking for some evidence on bike posture and overall best positioning for healthiest rides that might be "long" (say around 30km) but also where speed is not a concern - think of bikepacking or bike touring.
It seems like the default is drop-bars because if speed is your concern that's obviously the most efficient. But looking also at upright bikes like Dutch bikes I wonder whether touring in such position can be better for your back/shoulders/ass on long distance.
Does anybody have any data that compares a few of these variables like "Upright + 30km + 15km/h" vs "Drop-bars-30-degrees-bent + 30km + 20km/h" -> "more bum sores in first one but less back strains" etc.


texts: Is it safe to go over roots at high speed on a cross-country bicyle?

texts:
I have an average cross-country bike (Cube AIM), with stock parts on it.
I have no problems descending at high speeds on a rocky road/singletrack.
But when I have a long, steep descend with big roots (10cm in diameter) hidden partially in the ground, I feel like my bike is going to fall apart under me and I begin to brake more than I would like to, because I'm scared.

On such rooty (don't know if it's the right word) descend the front fork is working really hard, hitting the travel limit all the time. The chain is clanking furiously over the roots. The overall jitter is so strong that I can't sometimes keep my feet on the pedals.

Is it safe to drive on a hardtail CC bike in such conditions? If not, what kind of bike should I use for it?


texts: Should I avoid sitting on top tube on my carbon bike?

texts:
In another bicycle discussion forum I encountered a thread about possibility to damage carbon frame by sitting on top tube while stopped.

I see some sense in it, as generally tube walls are a lot thinner in the middle to save weight and are not designed for this kind of load. The problem is, I have not seen any warnings from manufacturers about this habit, nor there are stickers on the frame suggesting to not do it.

So the question is - Is this a real problem, should I change my habits?

UPDATED: There is one local person who does carbon repairs, he claims that he has repaired multiple frames which had been damaged this way.


texts: Making panniers out of canvas map bags -- how to seal after the build?

texts:
I'm planning to make my own panniers out of a set of army map bags -- these are small bags, about as large as a small front pannier, with a rigid back.

The hooks I'm planning to use attach to the bag with two screws and nuts. I'll have to drill or punch a hole in the canvas and packing to get them to stay. How can I seal the holes so that the bags will stay fairly water resistant?

(This is a bit of a test question -- will the board cover DIY-style topics like this? It is a real project I have going, though.)


texts: How do you tell what brand/make/model of bike I have?

texts: I have a bike I'm trying to sell because it's just been sitting in my basement. It looks as if someone primered it and the only thing I found was a serial number. Is there like a website I can look up more info on the bike using just that number?


texts: What should I do on the trail when I get mud caked in my chain, derailleur or cassette?

texts:
I took my new fat bike out for my first mountain ride and immediately got caught in mud. Before I knew it my entire drive train was caked in mud. (me too!) Thick, heavy, clay-like mud. A few minutes later, I was testing out the gears in a parking lot and the next thing I know my chain got stuck and ripped off the rear derailleur.

I've seen advice on how to clean my bike, how to ride in the mud, what kind of equipment is best for the mud, etc. Of course, avoiding mud for safety and environmental reasons is great advice. What I want to know is "what should I have done differently?" What do you do if you're on a trail and you get mud in your drive train?


texts:
When I first set out on my bike for the first 10 minutes there is a very audible clicking sound coming from the bike.

After 10 minutes have passed the sound disappears. It's coming from either the Bottom Bracket area or Rear Wheel area but I have looked at it and cannot figure out what is causing it.

Any ideas? Bike model is a Pinnacle Ramin 3


texts: Can I use Acera m4000 on trails without damaging anything on my bike specially my derailleur


texts: I have a 2014 Opus with Shimano Tiagra 10 speed. I have seen Tiagra shifters which don't have this annoying cabling coming out of the shifter and instead, they are together with the brake cables which goes underneath the handlebar grip tape. Can anyone suggest me how to upgrade the necessary components of the shifters to get rid of these cables in the front? I presume I might be able to save some watts on higher speeds as these flaps a lot.


texts: How do you switch grip shifters from shifting as if they were on the opposite derailleur?

texts: I was replacing cables on grip shifters recently and when I put them back together they acted as if they were on the wrong side. By that I mean the front shifter (3 chain rings) were shifting 7 times and the rear shifter (7 speed) was clicking 3 times. I was baffled at this and did not know what was wrong. Is there a way to change them back?


texts: Need Hidden nut for SRAM Force 1 chainring

texts:
I purchased a 50t Force 1 x-sync chainring.  The SRAM install instructions say to place the hidden nut (thin item that has "teeth" on the outside that becomes "permanent" in the chainring once installed) on the hole marked "Crank here for hidden bolt".  Unfortunately the chainring I have did not have this label on it so I put it in the wrong hole and only noticed later.  I managed to knock it out again but it isn't really a part that is intended to be re-installed, so I want a new one.

I can't find anywhere that sells this part.  I can't even find the part number in SRAM's parts catalog.  Also, annoyingly, most chainrings seem to come with this nut already embedded in the chainring so this problem is not widespread (mine came in a bag along with the bolts and washers needed for the chainring).  Its a super small thing - like 2 mm deep.  Threaded on the inside, teeth on the outside that grip the hole edges.  Seems like a terrible design because if those teeth fail the part will just spin along with the bolt and you'd never get the bolt off.  There's no slot on it (like used on other chainrings) so using the special chainring bolt slot tool doesn't help.

Can anyone tell me what this part is formally called (ideally a part number), and possibly any place that will sell it? Even better - is there a superior alternative (preferable steel)?


texts: How do you compare chainsets on MTB? Which is better?

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I'm looking at getting a decent mountain bike that will probably spend quite a bit of time on the road.
I found that the most common types of chainsetsare either:

Shimano Altus 2x9
Shimano Deore 1x10 (on the more expensive models).
SRAM SX Eagle 1x12 (on the much more expensive models).

When I compared the ratios of these three chainsets, the Shimano Altus seems to have lower low end speeds and higher high end speeds, so in general it seems like the better option to me.  Yet I can't understand why the 1x Deore and 1x SX Eagle are the more expensive options, aside from the weight loss, is there any other benefit to them or is this really just a case that the Altus is better? At least in terms of speed (which is what I am mainly interested in).
Am I missing any other important comparisons? Aside from weight and I guess it being easier to switch gears in a 1x setup (i.e. chain not crossing and stuff).


texts: I have Tektro disc brakes on my bike, and I guess I pulled the lever when the back wheel was off. After the pads were not separating I tried to force them apart, but got no luck. Is it because there is too much fluid in the system, or I cannot separate them with the wheel off?


texts: Which way should a seat post clamp be oriented?

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I heard somewhere (I don't remember where) once that a seat post clamp should be oriented with the gap at the front of the seat tube, opposite of the gap in the top of the seat tube. The logic behind this was that it supposedly exerts more equal pressure around the entire seatpost.

However, I've noticed that bikes off the rack are almost always sold the other way around, with the two gaps on top of each other.

Does it really matter? Is one way better than the other?


texts: The pump works, adds air to the tire but the pressure gauge does not work anymore... so I can not measure the amount of pressure for the tire... not an ideal situation.  Is anyone familiar with this pump having a valve or o-ring inside the pump that can be replaced or repaired to regain the pressure reading.  Loved the pump for 8 years or so... might be just time to replace it... Thanks


texts: How much can a 700x23 inner tube stretch?

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I recycled my dad's road bike (about 20 years left in storage) so I bought a complete set of new wheels. "Good" hubs and rims, not quality brand though but I've been told they're good and that's what almost everyone in this country uses. Now the thing is that the first time I inflated the front wheel after a 1km ride it exploded due to over-inflation. After that I was so careful not to over-inflate that I under-inflated the rear one and got pinch flats. While trying to figure out what pressure I should use I came to realize that the tires are 28" x 1" 1/8 (700x28) and the inner tube is 700 x 18-23 which to me seems quite a lot. I should note that I weight about 85kg (something like 180 pounds I guess) and as I've been reading for that weight/tube size I should be putting about 116 psi and the tire is rated at 85 psi max.

I don't care much about pressure since I do not intend to compete, just commuting and eventual light-training in the city. To sum up: am I getting flats because of smaller sized tubes? Should I get bigger ones (or smaller tires)?
Any help is highly regarded!


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Is there a way to find out how many of a particular bike model were produced and/or sold?
For example, "how many Schwinn LeTour bikes were produced in 1979?" The Schwinn LeTour question is just an example--I'm hoping to find a website or search strategy for finding this data for any arbitrary bike model.

I often enjoy looking at used bikes (and sometimes buying them), and I speculate that knowing production numbers would a few advantages:

High-production bike models might be more likely to have OEM parts available for a long time.
High-production models may have more rants/raves/discussions on web forums, which can give indications of reliability and build quality.
If enough data is available, it'd be cool to sort a big database of bike models by "highest to lowest production."

Note: by "high production model," I just mean "many examples (tens of thousands?) of this bike model were manufactured."

Production numbers for cars are generally easy to find (Wikipedia has a lot of them), but this question has been much harder to answer for bicycles.


texts: Randonneuring: Which UK 400k is appropriate for a new rider?

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I plan to attempt my first super randonneur series in the first half of next year. Picking a 200k and 300k are easy: I'll just ride my local ones (End of Hibernation 200 and Hauxton 300). And 600k is easy too: the Seething ride is easy to get to, and has a great reputation.

But which 400k should I attempt? The closest to me is the ride from Manningtree, but that's an unsupported event and it's not really all that close. If I'm going to travel, maybe it would better to enter one of the "classics" like the Irish Mail or the Llanfairpwllgwyn? I'm a pretty good climber, but not particularly fast.

So I'd appreciate some advice from experienced randonneurs.

If you're not familiar with the Audax UK calendar, then I'd still be interested in your advice in general terms: what characteristics of a 400 give the greatest chance of success (and enjoyment!) for a new rider? If I'm going to be too slow to sleep for more than an hour or two on route, does it matter that there are no sleep stops? How much of a difference do manned controls make, as opposed to self-service controls at ATMs and 24-hour garages? What about scenery and amount of climbing?


texts: Simple Question: May I use WD40 to lubricate my single-speed chain? Does it not have any negative effects in terms of the chain performance and biking in general?


texts: What might cause my tyre to deflate to a certain point and then remain there?

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This doesn't make sense to me. If I inflate my tyre to max I can cycle to work. Later on, the tyre is a bit deflated. Enough to be OK to ride on if I'm careful about potholes. However it never deflates any further. I left it all weekend and checked it and it's exactly the same level of deflatedness.

I'm about to switch out the inner tube but before I do I was hoping to discover why, in case I waste an inner tube.

I would expect a slow puncture to make it go completely flat.


texts: SRAM chain came with only half a powerlock

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I just bought a new cassette and SRAM 9-speed PC 971 chain. On the outside of the package a power lock is pictured. However, inside the package only one half of the power lock was included. There must have been an error in packaging at the plant.
Can I install this chain by removing one of the end links, and use my chain tool to connect the two ends? I will need to re-use the pin that I had to pop to remove one of the end links. I bought this chain on line from Sports Basement. All those stores are in California and I am in New Hampshire so a quick fix is not possible.
Has anyone ever had something like this happen?


texts: How do specific tubeless valves compare to bodging it with a cut-off tube valve? Would the bodge work? Thanks


texts:
I need to transport an "open frame" bike on a Saris Bones 3 car rack. This is the bike - http://arragons.com/online-store/bikes/hybrid-bikes/ridgeback-element-open-frame - and this is the rack - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/saris-bones-3-bike-rack/.

I'd like to like to know whether I need to shell out for one of these bars - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/saris-bike-beam-bar/ - which create a temporary top tube for ladies bike. The top tube on the bike in question doesn't seem that low so I might get away without the bar.

What would the effects of not using a bar? I've read that these bars are necessary for ladies bikes, but why if all it means is the bike sits more level? Will the rack be unstable? Will it mean other bikes won't fit on the rack? etc etc


texts: Help in converting Trek Domane 2.0 road bike to be more comfortable and commute-friendly

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I have pudendal neuralgia issues which require that I use a noseless saddle (not shown in pic) which works great for relieving pelvic floor pain.

The result, though, is that much weight then is placed on the arms and so I'm battling sore hands and wrists after being on the bike for 45 minutes or more.

I've got the standard drop bars with the top part of the bars wrapped in double foam tape so its as soft and wide as possible but it just doesn't do enough and it really just seems that the only solution is to reduce the angle of my upper body so that I'm substantially more upright.  I'm about 6'-0 and this is a 58 cm frame.  I don't think raising or shortening the stem a few centimeters is going to be enough change.   I think the only hope is to replace the handlebars with a some other handlebar pattern (or add-on) that might allow a range of positions including ones that might be 3-6" higher than the current top bar.

Does anyone know of some that I could look at online?  Not sure if this will make the bike unstable.  The noseless saddle does cause a fair amount of instability now.

I'm contemplating selling the bike and just getting something that will be comfortable enough to spend a couple hours of leisurely riding or commuting (any suggestions for <= $1000?)

If you see a handlebar modification that might be possible without getting into replacing brakes and all cables (which I expect to be expensive) let me know.


texts:
My daughter is not a very experienced cyclist so on holiday I would like to rent a shared bike.

However, at her size (133cm/26kg) she appears to be in a gap where she is too small for a tandem but may be a bit big for a tagalong

Does anyone know what the maximum size is for riding on a tagalong?


texts: Hollowtech II BB alternative for stripped frame threads

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I removed the BB (Shimano BB-93) from my Canondale Trail and found the drive side thread is stripped on BB and frame.
See  and
What are the options for me to replace the BB?
Is there an alternative Hollowtech II compatible part which will reach the good thread or other alternative?
I'm aware there could be a machining/welding/tapping option, but would guess that would not be worthwhile on an ageing bike.
Are there any alternative parts I could use?
Sheldon Brown mentions a Velo-orange option that clamps in place, but if possible I'd like to keep my recently replaced Hollowtech II crankset if possible
I'm baffled by all the combinations, hoping someone has been down this path already and can suggest if there's a practical solution.


texts: When I take turns, my rear wheel is sliding to the outside of the turn. I'm riding a 2012 Norco Heart, brand new stock tires, single-speed. I'm not carrying much weight, or taking turns too tightly. Any ideas?


texts: Should I change my Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre?

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I'm here trying to decide if I should get a new Schwalbe Marathon Plus for my touring bike. I've just finished a 6000km tour in Australia, riding on paved roads with a heavy load. Here's the looks of it:

Next month I'll be leaving again for another 5000km tour, this time on rough dirt roads (Central Asia) but with a much, much lighter load.

Do you think that this tyre is going to make it through ? Should I swap front/back ?


texts:
I am searching to replace the front tire.
It has a Swan tire, but the size is more important. Measures 12 x 1.75
Pliable enough to remount on rim


texts:
I feel like this is poor design. I have two wheelsets that are less than a year old which have damaged freehub bodys due to cogs digging in to the splines on the freehub. It's so bad that I can't remove the cassette spacer without filing down the splines. I had to use  pliers and chain whip to remove the cogs that were embedded in the freehub when trying to remove the cassette.

Most of the damage is on the center of the cassette as the largest 3 cogs are held together by carrier. I'm using a shimano 105 cassette and  Novatec disc hub and Velocity ATB convertible disc hubs (which were somewhat damaged in the same fashion, but not as bad as the novatec).

I'm using this bike for cyclocross, offroad exploring, light singletrack use, Rail trails and some road riding.

How can I prevent this damage to the freehub from happening?


texts:
I am an occasional rider who bought my last bike 15 years ago (an all-aluminium Saracen with shocks). I've put about 400-500 miles this year and am thinking of taking up one of the Cycle to Work schemes to get a new bike.

So I remember when I went from my steel, fully-rigid Diamond Back, to my Saracen. "Wow!" is the only way I remember the luxury of getting shocks. I plan to do 20 miles a day (90% road / 10% off-road) for commuting, and have been advised to get a carbon fibre cyclocross bike. But no cross bikes seem to have shocks, and, despite what I've been told, I just cannot believe that carbon frame & forks can offer the same amount of shock absorbtion as shocks.

There's much BS floating around about the wonders of carbon fibre, and while I would like a light bike, by the time I've added lights, mudguards, and a trip computer for road use, saving a few ounces here and there seems a bit silly.

The gearing of the bike I am thinking of (Planet X XLS Shimano 105 Cyclocross) seems perfect, with a top gear of 46/11t on 700c wheels. My biggest complaint about my Saracen is the lack of a really long gear for the roads, but the lack of shocks on the Planet X really does worry me. As an aside, I am most definitely not Mr. Super-fit, being 5 1/2 decades young, and with the weight problems (85-90Kg) that go with being such a spring chicken.

So does anybody have some real empiric evidence that CF forks are as good as Shocks for the use I have in mind or is there just too much marketing BS out there to form a firm opinion ?

Any sound advice would be appreciated !


texts:
I'm looking for, ideally, an academic study or authoritative source on what happens to stolen bikes, rather than just speculation. Is there anything I can do at this point to help track mine down?

My very dear two wheeled friend disappeared into the night yesterday, after its lock was cut through. Left in a bad spot for 'a few minutes' that turned into several hours.

I've filed a police report and the rest of it, but something that I keep wondering is where these bikes end up? Surely it would be too obvious to resell them on Kijiji or Craig's List, since people like me are now checking every couple of hours for their bike. Should I even bother looking around town, or do they get shipped off to a different city? Are they just scrapped for parts?


texts: Bike fit - comparison of similar geometries

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I'm usually riding my hybrid Giant Roam but recently I've been given a 2nd hand Decathlon 27.5 MTB for free and I've started hitting some mountain bike roads (not trails, more like forest paths, fire paths etc).
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the bike is a perfect fit for my body type, like 100%. It is easily controllable, comfortable, compliant. However, it's old, not worth maintaining or upgrading, and unbearably heavy. With this in mind, I started a search to find an entry-level trail MTB and since I'm familiar with Giant I looked at their Talon models (Going to a better one in Decathlon with the same frame geometry is not an option since they are all sold out and no-one knows when restocking will happen).
Unfortunately, I'm in between sizes so not an easy choice regarding the size. Ideally, I would like to find something that has 100% the same fit as the current one, so I started comparing the geometry tables to find out which is a better match (due to availability, the bike might be ordered online so no chance to test it in advance :/ ).

Question is, is it safe to assume that M's geometry is as close as it gets to Rockrider's one? Do you see a point where Giant would be completely different from Rockrider?
Thanks!


texts: What bicycle safe anti-car road spikes exist?

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I am curious if there is a technology that allows bicycles to run over it, but will destroy car tires.
From my understanding, usually poles like this are placed on trails to prevent vehicles from passing through.

Apparently, in Russia, there is a common issue with car drivers using the sidewalk. To allow the passage of bicycles and not cars, without making the pedestrians navigate between poles, maybe some kind of technology can solve the problem while keeping everyone safe.

Explaination from comments:  The russians have a real problem with drivers on the footpath / bike path / sidewalk. So there have been groups of vigilantes stopping a car on the footpath and haranguing the driver for bad behaviour. One thing they do is slap a huge hard-to-remove sticker on the car's window right in front of the driver. Literal sticker text translation would be "I spit on everyone and drive how I want"


texts: Can I switch to a new type of bottom bracket?

texts:
The bottom bracket on my MTB (Cube Analog '17) needs to be replaced, my local bike shop said he didn't have the required piece: a square bottom bracket 115 x 73mm.
Since I can't find this type of bottom bracket online, what are my options?

Can I use a different type of bottom bracket and will that require a change of cranks as well? What's a good choice?
If I purchase a whole new crankset (the original Shimano FC-M3000, 40x30x22T, 175mm), will that include the bottom bracket? Is this hard to install? I found one in a local shop but the specs mention 113mm instead of the 115mm that the shop advised me, I'm guessing this is the length of the bottom bracket and 1mm on each side less won't make a difference?

Thanks for any tips!


texts:
I had a broken axle, and on the side where it broke (I think) these are the bearings that looking at.

As you can see, there is a track of bearings, and then on the other side, two more bearings hiding behind it; we are looking through a freewheel.  Are those two bearing supposed to be there (presumably along with a bunch of their buddies) or did they simply fall out of the other tracks?


texts: Tire is losing air but inner tube seems to hold air

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I got a flat on my back tire and bought a new innertube. I put it on my bike, filled it up but it lost all air again within minutes. I took the new tube out, pumped it up to find out where the hole is, but I couldn't find a hole and the tube didn't lose any air.
I installed the tube again and the tire went flat within minutes. I repeated this process a few times with the same result.
My bike is an E-Bike and I am reluctant to take it to a bike shop because in my area they charge some extra money for E-Bike repairs.


texts: What causes a tube to become deflated on its own?

texts:
I recently went to get my bike ready for a ride, and I noticed right away that my rear tire had completely deflated. I took off the wheel, and took out the tube and checked it for puncture but didn't find anything. So, I put the tube back in and inflated the tire. As usual I had the tube inflated to 120psi, the max for the tire.

I went on a ride, it did not go flat on me. I put my bike away, and lo and behold the next time I looked it was completely deflated again.

What causes an inner tube to deflate on its own?

It also gets very hot in my garage. Does heat play a part?

I assume a new tube will do the trick. Is there a reason to worry, or can I safely ignore the problem and just inflate the tube every time?


texts: What to consider when repainting fork from black to white

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My beautiful road bike was in an accident which bent the fork. It gets replaced with a black fork which doesn't match the rest of the bike (creme colored).

Now I want to attempt to repaint it. Is there a good way to approach this in order to match the color? I have sent the email to the vendor to ask for the color specifications. I hope there is some kind of industry standard when it comes to the color.

Other than that, is there anything else I should prepare? Do I need to remove the black paint first or can I just color over that?


texts: Which Mountain Style Shifter for Early 90's Shimano 105?

texts: Converting early '90's Trek 1400 from traditional road bars to a flat/straight mtn bar. Converted V-brakes over to use Deore brake levers. Works well. Need to get the shifters up to the bars, replacing the originals on the down tube.  Which shift control/assembly do need ?  (original Shimano 105 components).


texts: Rear derailleur shifts all gears at once

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I've got Campagnolo Veloce gear system and I recently changed my worn-out rear cassette to a new one. Since then I've experienced issues when shifting to higher gears. When I shift, the cable moves all the way to its extreme position, or at least skips 3 cogs. Shifting to lower gears works just fine. This issue is likely not related to the pulley/cassette because I can feel the shifter releasing way too much even if the cable is not connected to rear derailleur.

I have done the indexing and H, L and B screw tuning. Do you have any suggestions how to fix this?

EDIT: The chains were also changed at the same time with the cassette.


texts: Is running shifter cables over the stem a bad idea?

texts:
I don't like how much the cables bend if I run them under the stem.

In the end, I actually had them on backwards and when I swapped them I was able to get acceptable cable runs to the stops on the other side of the downtube.


texts: Increasing e-bike battery range by limiting speed

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Can I get more range out of my e-bike if I put a speed limit on it?

I got my bike a few days ago and I really am enjoying it. As of now I am getting about 35 km per charge. So I was wondering if I am able to get more range by putting speed limit on the bike.

I tried putting the speed limit and I hope I will not cause any damages.


texts: Can a saddle clamp be upside down on a children's bike?

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Generally, when we put a saddle clamp on we put it so the rails are mounted on the "top" side (reference clamp pictured):

However in my case I still need to lower a seat by a inch more.  Looking at the clamp I could do this:

I'm asking this for my kids 16" bike.  She fits the bike well, but has a little issue of getting up on the saddle.  There appears to be enough space in the saddle to flip the clamp.  She is on the petite side at 15kg (and for reference, same model bike, my son was 23kg when he retired it).  I do plan on flipping it back over before I extend the seat post though.

Does this work or will I run into issues?

I went ahead and did it, it was just right amount she needed, didn't even mess with the lock on the rack.

EDIT

Not to take away on the answers here.  My daughter has been riding this bike like this for just under a year now.  She has even taken it off a simple 2x4 and plywood ramp without issue.  I'm sure it will handle most kids, but since she is on the small side then I can't really answer as such.


texts: Layering (lower half) for long chilly rides

texts:
I was riding all day on Sunday in temperatures that peaked a few degrees above freezing, but dry apart from the odd snow or hail shower.

It was cold enough to need layers. As I tried not to hang around outdoors, my top half was fine with just a short-sleeve jersey under bib tights and a long-sleeve jersey over, plus a buff round my neck, double gloves and home made wrist/forearm warmers. My legs and feet were fine too - 2 thin pairs of socks and pedalling effort. I didn't even need my shoe covers on.

But in between was an issue. I didn't want anything under the good chamois of the bib tights, I didn't want two layers of gel padding, but I wanted more insulation than just the bib tights. So I went for foam-padded shorts (the foam compresses quite quickly) over the tights. From an insulation point of view they were ideal - when they were in place, which was rarely. Every time I got going they caught on the saddle, and even just pedalling along seated they crept down. I think the problem is partly that cheap shorts don't grip, and expensive ones are normally gel. Loose-fitting stuff tends to get caught up and form lumps that rub, and it's nice to avoid the drag.

What are some tried and tested ways of layering for all-day rides in these temperatures? We've got a few questions on layers for cold commuting, but 12 hours door-to-door/200km is a bit different, and I expect the solutions will be, partly because of the need for something that works against the saddle. I regard minimising sweating as important; even decent wicking clothing gets cold fast if you're in the wind and damp with sweat.


texts: About 20-30 people bike to where I work. What equipment/supplies should we have on hand?

texts:
I work in San Francisco, and I'd estimate about 20-30 people bike to where I work. We mostly have a mix of road bikes and hybrids with a couple commuter bikes and mountain bikes too.  Currently, the only equipment in our bike cage is a locking entry door, a double-decker bike rack similar to this one, and a single floor pump.

I was thinking that we could start with some basic toolkit or repair kit, spare batteries for lights, loaner headlights and tail lights, and maybe a couple loaner helmets so people don't have an excuse to ride without helmets.

What else should we stock?  Are there premade kits for a situation like this?


texts: Would an original Abloy padlock and [toughened] chain make a good bike lock?

texts:
Why are bike locks so fancy, so specialised?

Would a small padlock, e.g. original Abloy make a good bike lock when connected to a chain?

http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abloy (first image)

Are there some common attacks that this combination protects particularly poorly from?

Chain may have to be of toughened (motorcycle) variety.

P.S.

Video from Germany testing similar concept with a much heavier lock:


texts: What are some good trail foods for long rides in mountainous terrain?

texts:
I'm going to be heading out to Durango in a couple weeks to ride and race and I could use some suggestions for good foods/snacks to take with when riding for 3-4 hours on singletrack trails. I'll be staying in a hotel so I won't have access to a full kitchen but I could maybe make some basic stuff.

Basically I'm looking for two categories:

Trail Snacks: small things to just keep energy up during quick breaks.
Meals/Substance: something I can pack to eat around halfway or after a couple hours of good riding to replace lost calories, more substantial than gels or trail mix.

And, for reference, I've got a medium sized hydration pack to carry stuff and nothing on the frame for storage (unless I tape it on).


texts: Can I fit a kickstand to my bottom bracket?

texts:
I'd like to fit a central kickstand to my Boardman Urb, and I wonder if I can use a threaded opening in my bottom bracket for that.
If it sounds like a bad idea, then what could be the purpose of this hole?


texts:
Background info about me:

Previously, most of my riding was done in the desert on a mountain bike.  That was a different time and different era (when the beer belly was not around mostly!).  Since then, I am a bit removed from being physically able to do mountain biking.  Gaining weight makes it harder to climb rocks (actually almost flipped backwards at one point trying to pop my wheel up) and I have also suffered from injuries while I was running track.  I have spent much time trying to rehab my leg but I am not able to run like I used to and my trainer suggested I should get into road biking.  I would also like to make a note that this leg injury is not fresh but a 10 year old problem I have been dealing with.
 I do agree that road biking would be better as I can maintain a constant cadence that you cannot do in the mountains which puts less twitch strain on my leg.  Oh I am also 29 for those that want to know my age in relevance to goals/body shape.

Goals:

Get in shape
Morning / weekend riding
Improve endurance
Eventually join a cycling club
One day possibly enter into a local race
Try to hit and maintain a 20+(hitting close to 30 would be nice) mph base speed (currently can do about 15-17 on an exercise bike but not sure how that compares to actual riding).
Morning rides of about 20-30 miles with weekend rides hoping to hit 100 miles.

Features:

I understand asking about product recommendation is off topic so I will do my best to also keep it objective.

Gear wise and body type wise, I am pretty limited to a few frames and gear sets based on my budget and I also understand it would be off topic to ask anyways.

I am undecided on the geometry I should do.  Some bikes have a flat back, others allow for variety/hybrid of an upright or flat back.  I understand asking for opinions is just that, open ended opinions, but if anyone can provide facts to why one would be better than the other for where I am at and where I would like to go, that would be appreciated.

I understand it is hard to tell without testing bikes and the best solution is "go to a bike shop and test ride" but it is hard to test a bike for any length of distances as most of the bike shops in my area just let you ride it around in the back lot for a couple minutes.


texts: What's the maximum tire width of a Cannondale Bad Boy 6 2014?

texts:
A quite basic question; what's the widest tire that can be fitted to a Cannondale Bad Boy 6, 2014 (with a rigid Fatty fork)?
Would a pair of studded 40mm tyres (Suomi Tyres W240, 40-622) fit?


texts: Finding DISTANCES on longer bike/hike paths

texts:
I want to bike along the Oxford Canal for several days.  I need a way to determine distances to plan for where to sleep and eat.

Mapping apps tend to tell you where to go instead of telling you about where you decide to go.

Are there any websites or apps¹ that make it easy to determine the distance along a path I will indicate?

¹I prefer IOS, but I do have an Android device.


texts: Upgrading the crankset - Scott Aspect 960

texts:
First of all a big thank you for everybody who can help out with the question!
The bike is Scott Aspect 960: https://www.scott-sports.com/gb/en/product/scott-aspect-960-red-bike
Currently the highest gear ratio is 36/11. I'm looking to upgrade that to go on a more slower cadence on long gravel routes at a higher speed.
Would replacing the front cassette with this one do the job: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/crank-2-3-x-8-speed-409/l-24
The shifter for the crankset has 2 gears listed, but the crankset here has three gears. What are the solutions for upgrading?

More info:  When we need to go with a 2 ring crankset, would this work:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano/FC-M315-2.html
https://www.modernbike.com/shimano-alivio-m415-42t-7-8-speed-outer-chainring
I'm anyways looking to upgrade the crankset to a Shimano one, so would it fit with this larger chainring?
As I understand, I would need to put on a longer chain then as well?


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I asked a similar question related to slipping gears here:

Slipping gears on new Electra Townie 8i

but now I no longer get slipping, but clicking noise when the pedals are rotated either forward or backward direction, but not when coasting and the pedals are not moving.  When in low gear, the clicking is faster and slower in high gear.

Could this clicking be the chain clicking on the sprockets of the gears?  What is the source of this noise and how can I fix it?  My other Townie 8i does not have this noise.


texts: I received a Trek One Series 1.2 Alpha 100 and want to replace its components completely. I am trying to make sure I order the correct parts and sizes. How and what do I look for when buying new parts to make sure they correspond correctly.


texts: installing brand new cartridge brakes, something seems fishy

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So I am installing a brand new cartridge brake pad assembly on my mountain bike. I noticed that the brakes have a left and right written on them so i install them properly. What seems fishy to me is that the cartridge slides in from the back of the bike.

This means that if i were to lose the pin holding the cartridge in place, next time i were to apply the brakes the cartridge would probably be pulled out of the holder because of friction.

This is the part that seems very counter intuitive to me. If that hole was in the front of the brakes, this scenario would never occur. This also leads me to believe that maybe the LEFT and RIGHT markers are suppose to be flipped.


texts: The quick release on my shimano sora brakes pops open during braking

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Occasionally, when using my bike with shimano sora brakes on the front and rear, the quick release will pop open during braking, reducing my braking power.  Is there some way to prevent this?  Is it likely that I have something adjusted improperly?  Do I just need to buy more durable brakes?

As a note: I am using these brakes on the bike I use for bike polo, so often times, I am jamming the brakes very hard to stop quickly after a sprint.


texts: Why aren't vertical dropouts truly vertical?

texts: Making some custom rear dropouts (vertical) for a project (nonstandard bike, they must be custom) and as I look to dropout examples, I notice that "vertical" dropouts never seem to have the slots completely vertical, as in 90 degrees from horizontal. Is there a reason for this? My design keeps the slots perfectly vertical for ease of drafting, cutting, etc.


texts: How much stiffness points on Shimano shoe is before it is noticeable?

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I'm debating over getting the older R171 or the newer but cheaper RP501.

R171 is listed as 10 stiffness index while the RP501 is 8, but it has boa dial and is the newer design and everything.

Can you notice between 8 and 10 Shimano stiffness index? If the stiffness is noticeable, I'd probably take R171, if it's not that noticeable, I might get RP501.

My only experience with Shimano is RP2 which is 6 in stiffness index, and it is a bit too flexy.


texts: Why does a bike frame have to be above 56 cm usually to fit 700c tires?

texts: I first came across this when I was looking at the Surly LHT, but I started to see it everywhere. It seems to me they can just put on a longer fork or something, or is it more for the back wheel?