texts: Did my 2015 rim have wear indicators on the brake surface?

texts:
Should I expect an alloy rim from around 2015 to have had wear indicators, because it doesn't now?  I assume a decent manufacturer, and a rim that's neither the cheapest nor high-end and super-light.
I doubt I'll find an answer for mine specifically (Mavic A310 by the look of things), so I mean this is a
general sense. In my case this is on the back, and it's done about 12 000 km, sometimes fairly laden as that's the bike with the child seat.  I tend to use the back brake lightly, and despite mudguards it does get dirty. They appear to have been discontinued, and I can't find a decent resolution photograph to check myself.
I've just pulled a chunk of aluminium out of one of the brake pads, so inspected the rim carefully to make sure that wasn't the source. That's when my suspicions were raised.
While I don't really expect a definitive answer, it would be good to have a decent idea of when to build the new wheel.


texts: Washed my bike with water and muc-off only, now my brakes are weak

texts:
I took part in my first bike event at the weekend, a very muddy "gravel" ride which by the end had my bike covered in mud! Rather than put it straight in the car, I took it to the muc-off tent and cleaned it with a little of their spray (mainly on the chain/cassette/crank), water, and a soft brush. When I got home I applied wd-40 to the aforementioned parts only.

Riding it today I noticed that my disc drakes were much weaker than they were before. Given that I haven't used any soap, or applied oil to the rotors, am I right to think that this should improve with use and that I haven't ruined my pads? They're only a couple of weeks old!

Thanks :)


texts: Cyclocross touring, studs for SPD shoes?

texts:
I just bought my first bicycle shoes (Specialized, SPD) and got four mountable studs. I'm planning on touring for about a month. Mostly on roads, perhaps occasionally on dirt tracks and larger trails.

I'm not too concerned about weight, so I started thinking of whether it would be a good idea to mount them before going or not. I'm thinking either of mounting them permanently or not mounting them at all, as I don't want to bring extra tools/stuff with me on the trip that I might not end up using.

What do you guys think?


texts: If the B-screw is too loose, would it significantly increase wear?

texts:
After installing an 11-34 cassette, it makes a grinding noise even though the B screw is all the way in. The grinding sound happens only when using the largest gear. Does the grinding sound mean that one of the jockey wheels is being damaged?

I use it only on steep hills which means most of the time I won't hear it. Once my fitness improves, I plan to switch it to a smaller one.


texts: I have a 29” S.E  Big Ripper And I want to add 2-3 gears on it to ride hills . I don’t want to buy another bike but would like some ease in my older age .


texts: Can too many electolyte supplements be dangerous?

texts:
I know riding and drinking only water can potentially lead to dangerous Hyponatremia or minor issues like muscle cramping. So I often supplement with electrolyte pills in my water like nuun or gu-brew, especially on long rides in hot weather and when doing multi-day tours.

Can too many electrolyte supplements be dangerous?  Is there a ratio or formula to follow to make sure I'm getting enough electrolytes, but not too much?


texts:
Getting a new crankset, decided on this one from Rivendell: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/cr1.htm

Question: Should I keep the 24t granny or get them to swap it out for a 26t? I have some concerns that a 12t jump is going to be rather big. I'm guessing either way I will need a chain watcher, correct?

Drivetrain info: I'll be running this with a Sora triple front derailleur. The rest of my drive train is a 9spd Tiagra / Sora shifter set up.

Thanks.


texts: How to fix tyre issue - rubbery sounds when riding

texts:
I don't know much about bikes at all. I have this bike which I was ideally going to use tomorrow for an journey but I think that I may have to use other transport now. I haven't used it in a while, and I know it had issues in the past with the chain slipping when trying to change gears.

I read online about how to fix this and then I noticed that the front tyre looked flat, so I inflated it, but when I rode on it to test it, the tyre makes this loud rubbery sound, I have no idea why. Its a mountain bike and I read that it was supposed to have about 1cm give when squeezing and it feels right. But this sound makes me think that something is really wrong. I have recorded how it sounds in this video. Please help. Is the tire broken? I have a photo attached too. Thank you.


texts:
Does a Sturmey Archer 2 speed kick shift hub let you backpedal?

A backpedal / coaster brake changes riding technique so much it drives me nuts; I am wondering if you can backpedal at least enough to reposition your pedals for starting (or while doing a track stand using your front brakes).


texts: How can I treat an aluminium frame ready for restoration?

texts:
I have an old aluminium framed mountain bike which has developed some 'oxidation / corrosion' underneath the lacquer -- it kind of looks like little white worms!

The frame as original has a nice smooth, ball-burnished finish (it looks like brushed steel but on aluminium), so whilst I could have the frame sand-blasted this would leave it with a dull finish.

Does anyone please know of a way I can treat the frame such that it will strip the existing lacquer, decals and oxidation marks but leave the original smooth finish intact?

Failing that is there an 'easy' way to restore the polished finish after sand-blasting?

I realise that the simplest solution would be to blast the frame and then paint it, the dull finish from sand-blasting proving a good surface for paint to key to.

++ Thanks ++


texts: What tools are required to replace a spoke?

texts:
When out riding at the weekend, for the very first time, I managed to break a spoke on my wheel.

Because I've not done it before, and I want to get back out on the bike soon, this time around I am minded just to hand the job over to my LBS. However, I do like to do my own maintenance where I can, so was thinking about what tools I would need to be able to do the job myself in future.

I'm thinking I would need a spoke wrench, a truing stand and a spoke tension meter. But would I need anything else? Or are any of these items unnecessary?

As a follow on question, this was a spoke on the drive side of a rear wheel that was bought just 9 months ago as part of a new (and expensive) wheelset, and has done something like 1500km so far. The roads I was riding on were far from perfect, but I don't particularly remember hitting any potholes. Was I just unlucky or should I be concerned?

Update

I've now replaced the spoke myself with no hassle whatsoever. Thanks to all three respondents, every answer was good - a spoke wrench was the only tool required. I estimated the correct tension by plucking the spokes and made sure the wheel was approximately true just using the frame.

The only other thing to note was that, having decided to replace the spoke like-for-like, the particular spoke was very difficult to get hold of singly. In the end I ordered from an online shop in the US (I'm in the UK). I did approach my LBS but the best they could do was to order a box of 72 spokes for me which pushed the cost right up. I had a chat with the mechanic there who said that this was quite a common problem...


texts: What kind of pump works for hard to reach kids valves?

texts: Could you recommend a pump that can inflate this?  I want to jump off a bridge right now :/


texts: Hydraulic brake not retracting sufficiently off the disk?

texts:
Sorry if this has been asked before (if it has, I haven't found it).

I have Shimano hydraulic disk brakes (type BR-M486).

The front one is beginning to make a slight noise even when I'm not using it:

A whispering noise like it's touching lightly
Happens even when it's cold i.e. when just starting out
Sometimes (but usually not) seems fixable temporarily by applying then releasing the brake

Apparently, when I squeeze the brake lever then the brakes close on the disk, and when I release the brake lever the brakes don't open again far enough to completely clear the disk.

When the noise happens it's slight but more-or-less continuous ... it doesn't sound as if only happens over part of the wheel's revolution.

Shining a torch/flashlight through it from behind, I can see daylight on one side of the disk but not the other ... so apparently, one of the pads doesn't retract off the disk. Looking at the rear brake I can see daylight on both sides.

I tried re-seating the wheel (to try to ensure it's sitting equally on both forks), which made no difference.

Do you (might I) expect a symptom like this if it's been too long since it was last serviced?

I don't understand the internals of hydraulic brakes: I can change a tire but haven't touched brakes. Is it something I could maybe fix, e.g. a screw to turn to adjust it, or should I take it to the bike mechanic?

Maybe this is the service manual for the brakes. Reading it, I see it says (towards the end),

  Remove the pad spacers, install the wheel, and then check there is no interference between the rotor and the caliper. If they are touching, adjust while referring to "Installation of the caliper".

Dare I loosen the "caliper fixing bolts", so that the caliper can move sideways? Or (instead of the rotor being too far to one side) is the problem that one of the pads doesn't retract properly, for some reason, so there's simply not enough total space between the pads for the disk?


texts: Difficulty & Value of replacing suspension forks w disk brakes (for Touring)

texts: I need to replace my front suspension forks with hard forks (no suspension). My bike has disk brakes, a dynamo (that seems to attach to the wheel hub), and mud flaps. Are these sorts of things easily added to any non-suspension fork or do I need to find something specifically designed for these needs? If so, what should I look for?


texts: My road bike seems slightly too big for me

texts:
After riding for about 300km, I'm looking at adjusting some parts to fit me.

First adjustment:
Because I feel that I'm stretching a little too forward, causing my back to ache, I've decided I would decrease my stem from 110 to 90.

Second adjustment:
Because I feel that the saddle is too small for me, causing the sensitive area to compress, I've decided to change my seat to swork power (OEM).

Right now I'm looking at my leg reach to the pedals. Currently I feel that I have to stretch a bit more than I feel comfortable to, while pedaling, so I'm considering if I should shorten my seat post or change my crank length from 172.5 to 165. HOWEVER my seat post is integrated to the frame, I feel like I shouldn't cut it (plus its risky as it is carbon).

165 cranks are rare: I only found Dura-Ace 7950 that would cost me $275, but it would be a upgrade from the current Ultegra.
Also my friend is saying that changing my Ultegra BB to a Dura Ace BB would make my ride much smoother.

Please advise me if all these changes I'm doing are advisable. Also crank change vs seat tube cutting!!

Thank you for your reading time!


texts: Clipless vs. Flat Pedal Speed Difference

texts:
Assuming one is biking on flat roads and assuming equal power in both scenarios, how much faster would one go using clipless pedals versus flat pedals?
[Note that this question relates to: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5647/how-much-of-a-difference-do-toe-pedal-clips-make-in-comparison-to-platform-pedal. I apologize if someone else has asked my exact question.]


texts: What are the dimensions for bolts meant to be used with ISCG05 chain devices?


texts:
I'm planning to buy an electric bike kit. However, I don't really like adding the display for aesthetic reason. However, the display (either LED or LCD) has function on/off and low/mid/high power on some model and this confuse me.

Can I just have BLDC motor, controller, battery, PAS, and brake sensor and hope it will work?


texts: Shimano Sora 3400 shifters with Shimano Alivio M430 rear derailleur?

texts:
I'm thinking about a touring built with just spare parts I have.

I have a rear Alivio M430 9 speed derailleur and Alivio 9 speed 11-34t cassette already. I want to have drops and Sora 3400 is the cheapest 9 speed road shifters I could find. I don't think there is a difference between the cog spacing between road and MTB so it should work if my assumption is true.


texts: MIG Welds vs Brazing for simple bike hacks

texts:
Given that frames are generally brazed, not welded and given that MIG welding will work on simple bike hacks what are the downsides of MIG welding these hacks?

For example, I would like to make a frame mounted front rack (rather than handlebar and/or fork mounted rack).  I know for sure the welds will be uglier than a professionally brazed job, but are there other issues to be aware of?


texts: How do I raise the handle bar on this bike?

texts: I would like to raise the handle bar of this bike so I can ride in more of an upright position. I tried searching for methods to accomplish this, but I'm not sure what I found were applicable to this bike. Do I just use an allen wrench to loosen the top nut in the picture below? The handle bar wouldn't budge though. Also does this fork look like it can be extended? Thanks in advance.


texts: Wheel keeps going out of alignment and loosening the chain

texts:
I have an electric bike with internal hub gears on the rear wheel, so no derailleur. This means that for the chain to stay tight, the wheel axle needs to be dragged back into its seating before it is fastened so there is enough tension. However, ever since I removed my rear wheel once to change its tube, the wheel axle won't stay aligned. The side with the chain keeps slipping a few millimeters out until the wheel is at an angle and one side almost touches the brakes and frame, and also makes the chain loose so that it frequently pops off the sprocket.

It's driving me crazy, I've tried like five times now to readjust the wheel and fasten it, yet after riding for a kilometer it slides back. It happens no matter how much I tighten the nut.

I can see on the metal of the frame that the jagged washer of the nut has eaten into a bit and made marks, can this be the cause? What can I do about this?


texts:
Given a "standard" cyclist's wardrobe (e.g. paddded shorts, jerseys, moisture-wicking t-shirts and socks--made of blends of lycra, spandex, wool, and other "specialty" fabrics) what special-care products are good to have to ensure longevity of the garment and its functionality?

I've so far been using a cold-water delicate-cycle wash with a free & clear detergent and line-drying.  My only issue is I've noticed some base layers still have a bit of odor left-over, certainly not enough to need a second wash--but presumably due to either sub-par cleaning technique or products.


texts: Fixing hydraulic disk brakes, what to check first?

texts:
I have a 10-year old bike, fitted with hydraulic disk brakes. The bike has been actively used for around 4 years only though.

Recently, my brake levers started to have more and more "play" before the bike actually starts braking. A kind of a "dead zone" where nothing happens, just like if there was not enough oil.

I went to the store to fix it, twice, but it keeps coming back. They say something may be stuck ("bourrage" in french, as ugly as it sounds). They told me they bled the brakes, but at this point I'm not sure anymore.

So now I'd like to fix this myself, once and for all.

The brakes are the only thing I've been afraid to fiddle with, so far, so that's why I'm coming here for advices.

Is there any "fixing your hydraulic disk brakes 101" or equivalent? A guide I could follow to check things in order. Shall I check brake pads first, then oil, then... A flowchart would be lovely!

tl;dr: What to check first to fix hydraulic disk brakes?


texts: Rear hub-adjuster thing - What does it do?

texts: I bought a basic wheel set for a hack bike project.  The rear wheel has a single speed cog, and a dangly adjuster thingy - maybe 2 inches long.  What is that for?


texts:
Does the speed of a normal mountain bike vary according to the diameter of the wheels? If it does, will a larger diameter increase the speed or decrease it?

Similarly, if the speed varies according to the size of the gears, will a larger gear (if possible) increase the speed? What are the demerits/disadvantages of such features?


texts: Does riding with suspension locked do any harm long term

texts:
I bought a Trek 4300 MTB a few months back as my main intent was to ride off-road on local dis-used railway paths. I've since moved house and my main use of the bike is now for my commute to work. Consequently I've replaced the tyres with slick roadies and ride with the suspension permanently locked.

It hasn't taken long for me to notice a juddering when I brake and it seems to be coming from the front-forks.

I was wondering if the odd pot-hole in the road that I hit now and then has done some damage to the internal workings of the suspension that would have otherwise been absorbed had it been free.

Is there something I can do with the preload to find a happy medium where I can ride with a really stiff suspension or do I need to continue to look on with bike envy at other commuters with road and hybrid bikes.


texts:
My rim size is 622-20 and my current tire is 622-30
Can I fit a 622-35 or a 622-40 tire on my rim?   My forks are wide.


texts:
I'm currently preparing to cycle the TransAmerica Trail next year, but don't have anyone to go with yet. Although I've been cycling for a couple years now, I'm still quite unknowledgeable when it comes to internet groups and/or major cycling societies, in where it may be fairly easy to find someone (or multiple people) to accompany me on such a long trip.

My question is: are there any reputable & active websites/organizations/resources that specifically help facilitate the act of searching for & finding cycling partners?

I'm aware of local groups, but this seems to be an exhaustive and not too dependable way of finding someone. BTW, I currently live in KY (which isn't exactly known for cycling, thus making even local resources fairly limited). Any insight is greatly appreciated.. I don't want to go alone!! :(


texts: Which knee / shin pads for XC mountain bike riding?

texts:
I'm considering getting some knee / shin protection for mountain biking but I'm aware that it might restrict my leg movement and make my legs hot if I get the wrong ones for the job (mostly XC riding).

What kinds of protection is available for XC mountain biking with the potential of falling onto   rocky trails at relatively low speeds (but still enough to be injured).


texts: What makes grease appropriate for bikes?

texts:
I'd like to grease my seatpost, and in front of me I've got a tube of "CMD Extreme Pressure Lube #3" that claims to be good for "ball bearings, roller bearings, deep drawing, rivet spinning" and a host of other industrial applications I don't understand.

Is this likely to work well?

If not, what makes grease appropriate? I'm sure I could pick something "specifically intended" at the LBS tomorrow.


texts:
My wife and I just purchased bikes for ourselves and a CoPilot Model A trailer for our 2-year-old.  We can lock up our bikes fairly easily, but the trailer leaves us a bit lost.  Everything on the trailer is easily detachable, and there's no evident way to lock the frame without removing the cover.

Is there an easy way to lock it up?  Currently, we bring it into the house when we're home, but that doesn't help when we bike to somewhere and need to secure it.


texts: How can I repair carbon damage near my bottom bracket?

texts:
I have had a few gnarly chain-drops that ate at my Open U.P. carbon frame. I thought I just had some chips in the carbon, but today I removed my crank for a full bike clean and realized that the carbon in the area around my bottom bracket is quite damaged. I should note, however, that the carbon that holds the bottom bracket is not damaged. The pictures below give a pretty good idea of what I am talking about.

I am wondering how I can go about repairing the carbon on my bike. I would like to do everything I can to restore the frame as much as possible. Is there some sort of carbon wrap I can get at Home Depot or something to fix this? Any tips, product suggestions, and more are greatly appreciated!


texts: Can I use a thru axle with a longer pitch when the manufacturer specifies a smaller one?

texts:
I bought a frame which didn't had the axle (lynskey cooper cx). The one which lynskey sells is 142x12x1pitch.

I'm from europe and I can't find any axle with the same specs, furthermore a lot of websites don't even mention this third measure, is it possible to use an axle with 1.5, 1.6 or 1.75 pitch instead?

Edit: Thanks to Argenti's answer I've seen that I understood wrong the terms. But I'm still having difficulties. The answer of the manufacturer is the following:
12x142 Axle Specifications:

12x142x1.0TP

12mm Diameter
142mm Hub Spacing
1.0 Thread Pitch
Overall Length of 166mm +/- 2mm

Using the link that Argenti provided, I can't see many options which fulfill this requirements, those would be:

 Kcnc   Indexing – Syntace X12  Tapered     167mm   12×1    19mm
 Rear “Scott” Standard 12×142

But still all of them have different total thread length


texts:
Is there any way to do a home-made sealing on my freewheel?

Is there any material recommended to do it?

Anyone can find some previous try documented?

Will I fail miserably if I try to source a sealed component with the same diameter and reuse the seal? What exactly is the seal?

Just a little of background: After fixing my freewheel, it does not spin with grease. So I used chain lube. It works, but for a little more than 2 weeks only.

UPDATE 1: more info.

  The focus of the question is: wheel hubs and other parts with MUCH
  more stress are sealed alright. Why freewheels can't?

It's a 5 speed Shimano freewheel. I was considering replacing it with a 6 speed since my shifter and RD works fine with it. but looking at the options, i refuse to give money to freewheel manufacturers! It's all crappy. even the high end models. Also, the gears are like new yet. bearings has no imperfections. it's just a matter of lubing.

So, I did open and serviced that freewheel (didn't take pics as I did it overnight alone and was aiming for speed so i could get some sleep).

At first I greased the hell out of it and closed. It spinned as bad as when it was dry and dirty (it has 12yr)

Then I reopened, cleaned it all again with 90% oil. Applied just enough grease to barely hold the bearings in place for assembly (an invisible film) and right after closing it up again dropped a bunch of 20w-50 engine oil and a bunch of chain-L oil (the snake oil of bike chain lube.)

It's spinning like new. but after 2-3 weeks, i often get one or another small chain drag when backspinning the pedal very slowly. No issue at all, but a sign that it's not perfectly lubed again. and will only get worse.

Tip

If the gears are not worn but the freewheel does not spin:

remove wheel
let if lay down with the freewheel cogs on top
use a spanner tool to remove the cap on the freewheel
drop oil in there
close it

As you can see, it's pretty easy to oil the freewheel. and all bike shops I ask about sealed freewheel and freewheel maintenance say that, 1. there's no sealed model. 2. you HAVE to do this oiling twice a year. 3. There are no consensus to which kind of oil.


texts:
I have a bicycle with Presta valves.

Should I buy a Presta pump or a Schader pump and a Presta-to-Schader adapter?


texts: TRP Hy Rd brake : why won’t actuator arm return properly?

texts:
The actuator arm on my TRP Hy / Rd front brake no longer returns to the correct position. Even with no cable attached, it requires a bit of help to return to its resting position. The result is that there is a small amount of brake rub.

I’ve used the brake on this bike for two years before now without trouble. I’ve tried to clean out the arm mechanism which perhaps helped a bit.

Is there something I can do to free the arm up? Could it have anything to do with the brake pistons being stiff?


texts: Fitting 1.5" tapered fork in a 42mm head tube?

texts:
TL;DR: is there an IS42 bottom headset for a 1.5" tapered steerer tube?

I have a 2013 Giant Defy 3 road bike with a broken fork.  It's very hard to find used forks for this because the steerer tube needs to be 298mm long.  The inner diameter of the head tube is 42mm top and bottom and it has an integrated headset.  The original fork was 1.25" top and 1.25" bottom.  I found a good deal on a tapered carbon fork which is 1.25" top and 1.5" bottom.  Is there any headset bottom that will make this work?  All the IS42 headsets I have found are for 30mm bottom.


texts: Roadside / Temporary fix for skipping chain

texts:
Recently I was out riding when my chain began to skip in the big ring due to heavily worn components. The situation worsened surprisingly quickly such that within a few miles I couldn't practically pedal in the big ring (i.e. the force required to keep moving exceeded that which causes the chain to skip over the cogs).
Fortunately, the small ring was less worn so I was able to make it home using that. But it got me wondering whether there are any quick fixes or tricks to overcome a slipping chain, if only temporarily, if this does happen out on a ride.
One thing I tried was to move up/down the rear cassette in the hope that a different tension might alleviate things, but this had little effect.


texts: Replacing crank and bearing on cheap Murray

texts:
Murray Cross Canyon. The pedal crank is all one piece with regular bearings. What would I use to upgrade this? Is there a bottom bracket that i can use. The outside diameter of the bearing is 43mm.
I'm converting this to an e=bike so it doesn't need to be high end, just better than the junk it came with.


texts: Do cyclocross races permanently damage the grass they are run on?

texts: I am considering putting on a cyclocross event and was wondering if anyone has any experience with the after math of the race.


texts:
I spent a fair bit of time riding in the lane, in traffic. In this situation, it seems that a brake light would be very useful: It's not always obvious when the vehicle ahead of you is slowing down, and I don't want to be rear-ended by someone who doesn't notice me slowing.

This intuition does not match reality. I was not able to find any bicycle brake lights that seem really ready for prime time. This is what I was able to find:

Q-Lite Multi — Apparently available from just one vendor (TerraTrike). Not mentioned on manufacturer (Q-Lite) website.
Maxxon — Available on Amazon, but poor reviews suggest it does not detect deceleration well.
Revolights — Complicated spoke mounting system; unclear drivers will interpret it properly.
Velodroom — Not yet available (pre-order only).
LucidBrake — Perhaps the most promising of the bunch. Apparently available only direct from a not-so-great website.

The first uses a brake handle-mounted switch. The others use accelerometers to detect slowing.

None of the major bike light manufacturers seem to offer a brake light.

My question is, what's the disconnect? Am I misjudging the value of brake lights? Is there some challenge that makes them hard to offer for bicycles?


texts:
I have an 8 speed system with 12 year old Sora STI's. Other components of system have been recently replaced.

All shifts up and down are fine except that 4-3 does not shift, only produces gear clicking noises.  The slightest extra touch of shift lever completes the shift.  Attempts to adjust cable tension to resolve always affects other shifts adversely.

Has anybody got any suggestions on likely cause please ?


texts: Unidentified "Sigma Mount Compatible" Bike Computer

texts:
Just got this used bike computer, only knew it fits in a Sigma type "Twist Lock System" mounts.
No markings on the front or sides only a serial number stamped on the back.

Really hope someone can shed some backlight :)

 calories, kcal display

 temperature readout (C / F), Min and Max memory

 just battery plate markings on the back...

Settings mode

 set Kg / Lbs (default Kg starts at 65)

 preset Total Distance (2 bikes)

 service 'feature' (default: 600) range: 200-999, also settable for bike1 and bike2

Electronic board

 readable series "E30370-01"

All in all looks like a good piece of hardware, also seems to have some data connection with battery removed (Vcc, Vdd, Vpp) would be very interested if/how it's PC link-able.

Edit:
With data from sigmasport's service website, made a makeshift product history, still it's not on the list...


texts: How to improve front brake functionality?

texts:
My front brake (cantilever brakes) does not make contact with the rim until I pull the brake levers almost all the way in, leaving me with very little space to apply extra force. That means the brakes are not working very well to slow down or stop the bike.

I'm not sure what I need to adjust -- whether it's the transverse cable or the link wire. Moreover, when I try to tighten the transverse cable, the brakes work well for a few times (or "pumps") but then suddenly revert to their original functionality. I'm not sure what's going on (if the brake cables are coming lose for example under the tension).

Any thoughts?
Thanks.


texts: Trouble With Upper Tube Race Installation

texts:
I was able to install the lower race without issue, but I cannot seem to get the upper one installed.  I am installing a new threaded headset on a newly painted bike.  There is no new paint blocking the surface.  I do not have any professional tools for this installation, just a hammer and a block of wood.

Is there any trick to getting it in there or do I need to have my LBS ream it out?


texts:
I'm starting to plan ahead for winter riding, and gloves are definitely high on the list.

What gloves work well for winter riding?  Are cycling-specific gloves the way to go for a flat-bar bike with index/thumb shifters?  Would regular winter gloves be good enough?

Another option I'm considering is buying some MTB gloves (full finger, some small amount of insulation) and wearing them inside regular winter gloves on the extra nasty days--letting me keep some protection if I need to ditch the thicker gloves (for repairs, or any other time the larger gloves get in the way).  Is this advisable?

Update 1: I should mention I live in Burlington, VT.  Lots of days below (and some well-below) freezing, and lots of snow :-D

Update 2: More clarification!  I'm hoping to commute in the winter on a fairly short route.  Initially (late fall) it will be ~4.25 miles, but hopefully by the time real winter sets in it will be about half that distance to a new location.  I'd expect my ride will consistently be 20-30 minutes, so I'm looking for something that will work well for a relative short while--but not worried about all-day hauls.


texts: How to release brakes to install front tire

texts: So, 21 yo mountain bike w/o quick release brake system.  Reinstalling a front tire that was repaired but confused on easiest/simpliest way to release brakes so the fat 'ol tire can be seated.  I do realize I can deflate the tire but wanted to learn another method.  I don't want to create a mess by going at it w/o a bit of guidance - any help would be most appreciated


texts:
What type of cables & housing should I buy to replace them on my 2016 M6R Brompton?
I've put a lot of tough miles since I bought my Brompton, and one of my shifting cables finally frayed and fell out of the shifter. It would be wise to go ahead and replace all of my cables and housing for the first time since I bought the bike 2 years ago.
I'm on a bit of a budget. Do I have to buy the replacement cables & housing from an authorized Brompton dealer, or can I just get them from any-old bicycle parts supply?
What diameter cables and housing am I looking for? And what are the minimum lengths of each of the four cables (which I can cut them to match the size of my old cables)?


texts: Is Ultegra 6800 GS compatible with an HG800 11 speed 11-34 cassette?

texts:
I'm running Ultegra 6800 with

a 52-34 chainring up front (not a typo: I replaced the 36 with a 34), and
a 6800 GS (medium cage) derailleur at the back, and
a 12-29 rear cassette.

It works well.

My question is this: could I drop in an HG800 11-34 cassette?

I am aware that this would exceed the max total capacity (41t instead of 37t) and also the maximum sprocket (34t instead of 32t), as per Shimano's documentation here:
http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/road/ultegra1/rd-6800-gs.html
But I'm already exceeding the maximum front difference (18t from 52 to 34, instead of the claimed maximum of 16t) --- with no ill effects.

Shimano is notoriously conservative.  Does anybody know if it would actually work?

In summary: would a set-up with 52-34 up front, 11-34 at the back, work with a medium cage Ultegra 6800 derailleur?

Thank you.


texts: Rear wheel at edge of dropouts on a Surly Cross Check

texts:
The rear wheel on my Surly Cross Check is right at the edge of the rear dropout but the chain is tensioned correctly. If I move the wheel back into the dropout so it is comfortably in the middle, I presume that the chain will no longer be tensioned correctly or will it? Does the rear derailleur compensate for wheel shift fore and aft?

If not will I need to get a longer chain? I asked the bike shop but they didn't seem keen on moving the wheel back into the dropout. They just said the rear dropout screws were correctly configured.


texts: Locking pump dual nozzle on presta valve doesn't work

texts: I have just replaced an inner tube on the front tire, and discovered it had a presta valve.  My old floor pump is fitted for a Schrader valve.  I learned I could buy an adapter, however, I decided to buy a new floor pump with a dual nozzle.  I opened up the valve on the presta valve by screwing open the tiny nut.  I also used the small screw ring to lock down the valve on the rim.  I pushed on the side of the nozzle for the presta valve and locked it on with the lever.  As I pumped air was escaping out of the other nozzle for a Schrader valve.  I took it off and tried again pushing the nozzle down as far as it would go – about 1.5 cm, locked it down, and again found air escaping through the other nozzle.  Thinking the lever must be in the up position to push it down, I tried again.  This time the nozzle would not push down very far, and air was escaping through the other nozzle.  I'm sure I have the correct nozzle on the presta valve (It is a smaller opening).  I'm not sure what to do next, and I would welcome any insight.  Thank you.


texts: Need to know what type of bike frame this is

texts: Bought this frame a couple years ago as project to build. Want to start getting it built but can't find any of the info I got with frame when I purchased it.


texts:
I recently bought a 2012 Epic comp 29" and am super excited to start hitting the trails, back country, camping, etc., but I'm starting to think I should have bought a bike with more mm of travel.  I've been doing a lot of reading up on the sport while also checking out videos and stuff, and I noticed that a lot of riders go with a Specialized Camber or Enduro for the "do everything" type of bike, so my questions are:

is 100mm of travel enough for a do everything kind of bike?
also, say down the road, can I change my shocks to have a higher mm of travel?

I'm new to MTB and was curious if I made the right choice with the Epic, as my fears are that I will do a some jumps, etc and not have enough travel, thus damaging my bike.  Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

UPDATE: not sure if my weight is a factor, but i'm about 160lbs, 5'7"


texts: Which standalone head units would work with Tacx i.Flow T2270?

texts:
I'd like to be able to use my Tacx i.Flow T2270 trainer without a PC.

Apart from the T2202, which current or older standalone head units would be compatible? Would T1682 work? What about head units from other Tacx models?

(I am looking to buy secondhand, so would like to understand my options.)


texts: Is it possible to change the rear axle from a 12x142 thru axle to a 9x135 qr on a Mavic Ksyrium wheel?


texts: What is the Optimal Tightness for Learning to Ride with SPD Pedals?

texts:
I recently switched the pedals on my road bike over to the SPD clipless system. The pedals I got have an adjustable spring. Tightening the spring increases the force required to twist one's foot out, while loosening it does the opposite.

Initially, I set the tightness as low as it would go. I have ridden the bike every day in the last week without issue, and without even the prophesied falling (though I'm sure my time will come!).

Today, while biking uphill against a strong headwind, my foot detached from the pedal, and I nearly lost control of the bike. It seems to me that this is the result of pedaling vigorously while also swaying a bit to keep my balance. This also seems like exactly the wrong time to have one's feet come loose.

This event makes me think I should tighten up the spring. At the same time, I have had several near falls where I forget to unclip at a light, but was able to quickly unclip after stopping and catch myself.

I have two questions:

1: Is it more dangerous to set the tension too high or too low?

2: What sorts of schedules might be optimal for gradually tightening up the tension while learning to use the clipless pedals?


texts: Trying to repair avon roadster 2000 circa

texts: Looking for a Manual or pictures to help put back together an Avon roadster circa 2000.


texts: One time I hear someone said, with satisfaction, that his aero wheels sound awesome. I wonder where does the noise come from, is it because you ride so fast the pushed air makes the noise or is it just noise of carbon fairing vibration?


texts: Can anybody help me find a cable housing ferrule that looks like this?

texts: I've spent many hours looking for this and can't find them anywhere. I need them to repair a special fitting.


texts: Are there dynamo powered front flashing lights?

texts:
I have a bright battery powered front light and I'm looking for a flashing "be seen" front light that's connected to a dynamo so it's always on whenever I ride. Standlight would be ideal, but isn't necessary. I would be connecting it to a bottle dynamo.

I know about all the Reelight options so don't need suggestions of those. I'm also not interested in DIY solutions.

I understand why most dynamo front lights are solid, but am hoping someone knows of a flashing one I just haven't managed to find yet.


texts:
Imgur album link with captions for each image.

Shimano 600 groupset, 42 and 52 tooth up front, 2x6. Cinelli handlebars, Capagnolo downtube shifters, Mavic MA40 wheels, Shimano 600 brakes.

I was under the impression that it was a Road Ace or Competition 12, it seems to have a mish-mash of parts from the 80s Raleigh line. The cable guide under the bottom bracket is Raleigh branded too, no serial numbers anywhere. I took it to my LBS and the woman there pointed out the ornate looking lugs where the tubes of the frame attach rather than being just welds and I cannot find any info about this or which bikes had this. Any help is much appreciated.


texts: Problem setting up Shimano 5800 levers for the first time

texts:
This is my second attempt to setup a Shimano 5800 groupset from scratch.  The problem on both bikes has been that downshifting worked to a point, but upshifting never works. The process isn't detailed very well in the docs, but the following is what I've done.

Tapped the B lever (upshift) 10+ times.
Thread the cable through the lever. Use the correct Shimano provided housing end with extra sheath for the cable. Close the flap. Make sure end is pulled into place for no lever side cable slack. I don't have a third hand tool so maybe my mistake is here.
Attach cable to rear derailleur. Again slack with no third hand tool. Tighten by compressing the derailleur and pulling the cable by hand.
Downshift as far as it'll go. I had planned to set the derailleur adjustment screws once I has in the largest gear.
Now the B lever feels like it's not engaging the cable at all. Unable to upshift at all. B lever does move freely.

I've been through this three or four times and the outcome has been the same. Any ideas what I might be missing?


texts: How do I use a freewheel as a single-speed?

texts: Can I disassemble a free wheel sprocket and use it as a single speed sprocket or I have to buy a single speed sprocket?


texts: Misshapen inner tube, is this evidence of it being incorrectly fitted?

texts:
I recently fitted new tires and inner tubes (Continental 700 25c). Today I had a fairly slow puncture, going flat in around 20 mins. I removed the tube and found that the puncture was at the edge of what appears to be a defect in the surface of the tube, at the point where the top seam meets the edge of this apparent defect.

Is this most likely caused by the tube being pinched or folded somehow when installed? I'm guessing that I've done something wrong here, rather than there being any issue with the tube itself.


texts: Daily Adjusted Seatpost for Trainer Bike

texts:
I just got Nashbar's Ascent Fluid trainer and put an old big-box store bike on it that nobody was using, so now I've got kind of a permanent trainer bike which is nice.

The problem: me and my partner are different heights/sizes, though close enough that all I really want to do is raise the seatpost when I ride, then adjust back down when I'm done.

Of course I need a new seatpost for this b/c it's too short to go any higher.

My question: is there a risk of damaging/wearing out the seatpost/tube quickly by adjusting it twice daily (once when I get on, then again when I get off)?

If so, what kind of lube (if that's suggested) should I use that won't have toxic/smelly fumes and be excessively messy/require wipedown every time I lower the seatpost?

I use park anti-sieze for my main ride, but that stuff is nasty/toxic so I don't leave any exposed (on the rare occasion I adjust height).

Should I just resign myself to eventually wearing out the seat tube and/or buying new cheapo seatposts once in a while?


texts:
I am new to the community but used to ride pretty heavily for 2-3 years back in college (2015-2018) and am hoping to get back into the hobby, and am hoping to track down my old bike make/model.

I owned a lovely recumbent, it had all the necessary items. It was SWB and USS. The front tire was 16"x 1-3/8" and the rear wheel was 700c (x 20-25c). It also had a built in fairing mount up front.

Despite the 3 years of riding, and approx 1300 miles I put on this girl, I have exactly 3 photos with her even in them.

These are trash photos, I understand. The ones I took of her when I got her, and when I was riding more actively, were all on a phone that I ended up losing to the bottom of a lake. I'm hoping that these 3 and the specs I have are helpful enough. I am approx 5'10" in the picture, if that helps any.

I have been looking all over, and unfortunately specs of bents just aren't super easy to come by.

Additional details: I did at one time track then the make/model of the bike, so I know it wasn't a home brew, although there may have been modifications to her before I got her, specifically in the seat area. It had 3 gears up front and 7-8 in the back. Shimano shifters. The seat mounted on with 4 bolts, but that might have been modded. The chain crossed over itself, and it did have an idler, that basically looked like this, although it was yellow. I believe the frame was straight from the rear gear to the front one, but at an angle (you can kind of see the angle in the picture) so the bar didn't have a bend in it, like the Vision bikes do. The front wheel was also VERY close to the seat,and the handle was actually above the frame as it was heading towards the pedals, although still under the seat, which you can see in the picture. It had a rack on the back, aluminum and thin, but that could have been modded as well. I bought it in March 2015, on craigslist, in Phoenix. I believe I remember the manufacturer was from the west side of the country, but that might be incorrect.

That's about all I can remember. If you have any specific questions, I might be able to job my memory. I don't have any specific serial numbers or anything like that unfortunately.

Thank you all, hopefully we can find it.


texts:
Has anyone else noted a drastic reduction in braking performance with Zipp's NSW Showstopper braking system as they age?  Right now the dry stopping isn't great, but wet stopping is practically nonexistent.  The brake pads are the recommended ones and they are adjusted correctly.  The brake track looks and feels polished.  Zipp/SRAM examined the wheels and said everything is fine. This is the first time that they have heard of this problem?  Really? It used to be that I had to clean off copious amounts of brake dust after each ride - not any more.
The warranty will be up shortly.  Does anyone know of an alternate Shimano style pad that can be used without compromising the wheel?


texts: Despite removing and greasing it, my pedal still won't rotate - I can't figure out why

texts:
Yesterday out cycling on muddy farm roads, my right pedal seized up and stopped turning (the crank turns fine, but the pedal itself doesn't turn to stay parallel with the ground, making cycling difficult because my foot keeps coming off). I assume it got grit/mud in it - at one point the road was flooded and the bike got immersed up to the top of the chainring - but I've removed the pedal, rinsed, dried and oiled the threads, and replaced it, but it's still really stiff. I'm fairly confused as to why - there was no visible mud even before cleaning. Any thoughts? I used a generic bike oil - would getting penetrating oil help?
It's a new bike (Sirius X 3.0) - this is my 10th or so ride, no issues hitherto.
Edit: as per the comments/answers, I realised it is the locknut - it doesn’t appear to be removable as you can see in the image, and WD40 doesn’t appear to be helping. I suppose taking it back to the shop is the only thing to do if the pedal can’t be disassembled.


texts: Cycled my friend’s bike and fell forward. Hoping this can be fixed.


texts: Snap a Shimano chain pin without pliers?

texts:
I just went back to a Shimano chain. For emergencies, rather than using a missing link, I considered just bringing a couple of unused links and a replacement pin.  However, I don't want to carry a pair of pliers.

I have a Crankbrothers M19 tool set.  I think I might be able to use the #3 spoke wrench on the chain breaker to add a little bit of leverage but not much.  I might also be able to just use the end of the chain breaker but the opening is fairly large.  Anybody have any thoughts of how to snap the pin without pliers?


texts: How popular is the "Sold Secure" certification among reasonable-quality lock makers?

texts:
I'm a recent convert to cycling, having moved to Amsterdam, and I intend to buy a U-lock for a bike I'm getting.

Now, people have recommended that I buy U-locks with a "sold secure" label - but in a couple of bike shops I've been to I haven't seen any items with this label. Granted, there wasn't that much variety, but it did make me wonder - is that certification very popular with lock manufacturers (of reasonable-quality locks)? Or is it more so for manufacturers in other countries than here? I need to decide whether to limit myself to locks with the certification or think of some other way to evaluate locks.


texts: Howto design a route in Google Maps on the pc and navigate on the android device

texts:
I would like to do the following:

Create a route in Google Maps on the PC and save it under my account

Set Start and Target and let google maps create a route for my bicycle. Change the route and insert via-points to optimize the route. (Avoid ways with a lot of cars)

Save the route under my account

Open the route on my Android Device (Google Maps App?) and navigate with the route. The route should have the via-points.

I only managed to create the map on the PC and opened it in a special app called 'Google Maps Engine' on my Android device, which only shows the route. I can't navigate.

Is this possible?


texts: Differences Between Shimano Ultegra & 105 Drivetrains

texts:
I'm in the market for a new bike (or possibly a groupo upgrade on my current bike that has 8-speed Ultegra 600 components from the early 90s). I'm trying to determine if the premium for an Ultegra drivetrain is worth it.

I know one of the main differences between Ultegra and 105 is going to be the weight, which I am not as concerned with as much as I am with durability and reliability.

I typically put 150-200 miles a week on my bike with my long rides being 50-100 miles. I am not a serious racer, but I do participate in 3-4 organized race/rides each summer.

If I go with a new bike I'd like to stay in $2k range, but could talk myself into as much as $3k if warranted.

Also, since many builds seem to be coming with mixed components are there any items I want to make sure I don't skimp on? I'm guessing STI levers and derailers specifically?

Any words of wisdom?


texts:
It has been very hot lately, up to 106 and 103 degrees F (41 and 39 degrees C).

I went for a ride and got a puncture flat both times.  I don't usually get flats. Is it possible the heat of the road makes the tire rubber softer?

I'm running continental grand prix 4 season. I'm thinking because the cold weather compound its more susceptible to heat?

Or just coincidence?


texts:
My brake pads are stuck so I brute force them apart and when I finally put them back on and go to pull the lever it is extremely loose.
When I let go it makes the pads completely close up and cause the disk to squeak and make loud noises if I try move or pedal the bike. Nothing I do seems to work and these brakes are out of the box new.
What do I do now?

Brand: hope tech, hydraulic disk brakes.


texts:
Can anyone recommend a LED front light for Brompton (S Type) that can remain attached when the bike is folded and works well for commuting in town?

The folding causes problems in that anything protruding more than a couple of centimeters forwards of the stem and bars hits the spokes of the front wheel when the handlebars are folded down.

There is the official Brompton light set, but I wondering about other options.


texts: Yellow anti-rotation washer, Shimano Nexus 3 speed with trailer?

texts: Should I keep or remove the yellow anti-rotation washer when installing a child trailer to my e-bike (EcoRide with Shimano Nexus 3 speed)? The trailer installs through the wheel axle (see attached img.)


texts: Generally, why Bicycle tires are thinner and Motorcycle tires thick?

texts: I know, not all bicycles have thin tires nowadays, but generally why bicycles have much thinner tires than the motorcycles?


texts: Brakes for a mountain bike frame (26'r) with 27" road wheels

texts:
I have converted a mountain bike to a commuter. the frame accommodated 27 " wheels, so I installed for a better ride. I have a road carbon kinesis fork up front with a v-brake, but need a rear brakeset.

The boss positions for the rear brakes, however, are too low on the seat stays for a standard set of v brakes to properly contact the rim.

Is there a brake that is long enough to contact a 27" rim when installed on a 26" mountain bike frame?


texts: How to find a replacement and replace a broken kickstand?

texts:
My bike came with a kickstand, but today after a ride I noticed part of it had fallen off somewhere, as shown in the picture below:

It used to look like this:

As I don't have the part of kickstand that fell off somewhere, I'm thinking of buying a replacement kickstand. I assume that I'll need to remove the old kickstand and install a new one. Can that be easily done? What type of a kickstand should I buy? Is there something else I should take into notion when buying a kickstand, like different sizes etc?


texts: Rear wheel keeps ending up squint, axel on cassette side lateral movement?

texts:
I have an old(?) 2010 Carrera Vulcan MTB and the rear derailleur hanger broke a few months ago (my son accidentally bashed it with his bike). Even though the bike is old, it has not really seen much use until recently.
I replaced the hanger, but in the process dismantled the rear wheel/cassette to give things a check and clean up before replacing (axel looks straight, bearings seems ok). After I put everything back together, the rear wheel keeps ending up squint - to the point where it looks like it's bent the QR skewer. The wheel looks normal shape and the frame and bike itself have not sustained any crash or damage.
It appears that on the cassette side, the axel can move a few mm laterally. When I put the wheel in the dropouts (vertical) it can sit centred, but when I put the chain on the cassette the tension pulls it out of alignment.
I've attached some images to try to illustrate what it looks like - the only thing I can think of is that maybe there is not enough of the axel sticking out the cassette side, but I'm a complete bike repair noob so really not sure what is causing this. I can push it into a centred position and tighten the QR, but after riding it seems to slip out of alignment eventually.
Any other reasons why this might be happening?


texts: Burley Flex Connector, square tube vs round tube, does it really matter?

texts:
I have a new flatbed trailer that uses a square tube tow bar instead of a round like my kid trailer has.  Since I'm setup on the Burley system, I need to use a flex connector for the new trailer.  I bought one of each with the trailer so I was prepared when it showed up.  While looking at them either one will fit but the square tube connector has ridges which are just as round as the rest of the connector.  Other than increasing the diameter of the connector, does the ridges really matter, or can I use either one on this trailer?

I'm sure I get no support from Burley since both trailers are not Burley and the packaging for the connectors clearly state not to use them on other trailers.

My kid trailer is a Pacific Voyager II and the new one I bought is a Aosom/Mwave/somebody "wonderer" flatbed.

Flex connector for round towbar:

Flex connector for square towbar:

Here is the side-by-side photo of the connectors I received:


texts:
I have an early 90s Raleigh in below-average condition. The frame colours are a bit naff -- sort of sky blue meets white with black serif lettering.
It was bought cheap off eBay after sitting in a garage for decades. The bike is at the end of its natural life and needs most components replaced. My plan was to give it a new lease of life with an all over spray from spray.bike and new vinyl lettering, with a name of my choosing, new tyres, tubes, handlebar grips -- the works. I would keep only the red/gold Raleigh badge on the head tube.
However, my immediate neighbours -- cyclists in their 50s and 60s -- have a soft spot for Raleighs, particularly from this era, and seem to think conservation is better than renovation. This has given me pause, and made me wonder if I wouldn't be losing something by spraying over the bike.

Is there a consensus that renovating a classic bike from a reputable company is fair play, or would I be breaking a tacit bicycle commandment by doing this?
Has anyone regretted carrying out such an operation?


texts: Redmond bikers: Can you ride all year long?

texts:
I'll move to Redmond, WA in a couple months and since I was about to buy a bike, I have a few questions to see if I still should.

Is it possible to ride all year long for both commute/recreation (I like XC and trail)? I'll probably be living just a few miles away from work. Is it too cold on winter? I've been there a couple times, and know Redmond's breeze/rain (and the fact that its there 200+ days a year).. does it make it to cold to ride?

I used to ride a lot, but haven't done so in a long while, and I recently started wanting to ride a LOT! Would it be worth to buy a bike here (im in Guadalajara, Mexico) or should I wait the few months and buy a bike over there? I was thinking on a Rockhopper Comp 29er Int (which has pretty much the same specs as the american RockHopper 29er Pro, which i can get here for about 1500 with a paint job that I absolutely loved (similar to the one in the link but with green instead of gold).

Thanks!

EDIT:

As per suggestion I add that by too cold I mean your throat hurting when breathing, stiffiness on joints (specially hand, even with gloves), ice burn, not being able to ride without goggles, etc. oh and a little bit of water is ok, but not getting to the office completely soaked


texts: I have a Specialized Rockhopper 29 that has a Shimano Tourney RD-TX800 8 speed rear derailleur and a Shimano Altus FD-M315 2 speed front. The shifters installed on that are Microshift TS39-8R which are push-push. I am trying to replace both with push-pull shifters. Any suggestions would be great!!


texts: Chinese carbon clinchers - cheap but safe?

texts:
Ok. I won't mention links, ebay posts, or anything that may tempt you in any way, like I was. However, they are growing in popularity at my local and some guys swear by them.
We all know buying local helps the local economy, jobs, and generally you get what you pay for ie local=quality!

BUT

Most of us cannot afford Zipps at around $2000+ (AUD), that really look no different to those Chinese carbon clinchers. I mean, have we've been ripped off when most of these wheels are really made in China anyway? Are we just paying for the decals!?

Please share your Pros and Cons on why and why we should not look directly at the Chinese carbon wheelset market more seriously?


texts: I've got an old bike with a quill stem, and the headset arrangement has a nut, and a textured lock ring. I presume I should tighten with a combination of a spanner and mole grip. Is a mole grip the right tool for the job?


texts: Rear wheel not straight because of worn out dropout?

texts:
I noticed that my rear wheel wasn't straight and even after realignment it wouldn't stay straight. After some investigation I noticed that my rear dropout appears to be worn out:

Is this the problem? What is the cause? Is this normal for a bike that is a little less than 2 years old? Is there any repair option aside from changing the frame?

The quick release was bent and replaced some months ago.


texts: Replacing rear derailleur on Murray 15 speed - Looking for parts

texts:
I have an old Murray Ultra Terrain mountain bike; it's 15 speed and I had trouble re-mounting the rear derailleur to the frame. It's broken now so I'm looking for a replacement but I'm unsure of what would fit. Here's a photo of the other (non-drive side) of the frame.

From what I understand, the number of gears on the rear cassette, denote the type of derailleur replacement--in my case, 5. Is this correct?

Where can I purchase the best replacement derailleur for this bike? I prefer to order off Amazon but will look at other options.

Here's a photo of the derailleur:

I lost the original mounting screw and had to use just whatever fit...


texts:
I have a Norco Mountaineer SL. It has a schrader valve and I am trying to inflate the tyres using https://www.amazon.ca/Crank-Brothers-16304-Sapphire-Silver/dp/B07K4PLWKW/

I seem to have set it up correctly for schrader valve. The air comes out of the pump head when I pump it. It seems to adjust on the bike valve fine. I then lock it and try to start pumping. The gauge moved the first time I pump and then remains at the same pressure. The air does not get into the tire remains stuck in the head/pipe of the pump and it then gets squeezed out when unplug it from the bike valve. How do I fix it?

I have tried moving the rubbers in the head of the pump but it seems to be squeezing air out just fine. I am not sure why is it not getting into the tyre AT ALL (Tried both tyres)


texts:
Winter is soon upon us here, and I'm gearing up for the season.  I currently have a pair of rain over-pants which I use during the other 3 seasons, but honestly I really dislike them.  They're baggy, requiring the use of an ankle band, and not entirely warm.  They do a decent job of keeping out water, but I don't know how they will perform with snow.

Can someone recommend a type of pants which are more form-fitting and will do well in both rain and snow?


texts: Is it possible to convert a press fit bottom bracket to threaded?

texts:
I have a road bike with a press fit bottom bracket (I'm not quite sure which kind). The guides I have watched make it seem fairly risky to replace and requires ~$250 worth of tools to replace. I saw online there seems to be some products that can convert a press fit bottom bracket to a threaded one.

Do these work? Are they worth using?


texts: is there an easy fix for worn down brakes?

texts:
I have a really cheap Walmart bike with originally came with questionable brakes. After more than a year of commuting, they have worn down to next to nothing. Is there any easy fix at home to improve brake performance?

UPDATE: Brought it to a bike shop and they said its a mixture of cable stretch and worn brake pads.  Getting front and back brake alignment for $14


texts: What is the purpose of the rubber stripe between the wheel and the air chamber?

texts:
I had a flat tire and replaced the air chamber. While doing that the rubber stripe that stands between the wheel and the air chamber ripped and it's no longer a ring. It´s hard to put it correctly and I don't have a replacement.

What is the purpose of this stripe? is it needed? leaving there (badly fitted) is worse than not having the stripe at all?


texts:
Which is better for training, cadence or speed?

With the sufferfest both are displayed does it make sense to use both while training?


texts: Any reason for non-continuous mountain road barrier?

texts:
I have been cycling recently in Polish mountains and when riding through one of less occupied mountain roads, I have found many places where road barrier (that is suppose to secure bikers and car drivers from falling into nearby river) is not continuous.

Some questions around:

Is anyone familiar of those? Can these be found in other countries?
Is there any particular reason for having such risky solution?
What am I missing in thinking that they pose a serious danger?

I was a too-close (as for me) from not stopping before one of these "separation holes" and falling into river, so I'd like to learn as much as possible about these "things".


texts: Is there a way to share a tight staircase/steps with pedestrians?

texts:
One of my destinations in the city has a peculiar access route - I need to descend a very narrow set of steps, a staircase, which has barely enough space to let two pedestrians pass.
I'd estimate its width as 150 cm. It's not as steep as staircases which we use to access higher floors in buildings - its inclination angle is maybe 50%. It's an outdoor set of steps, which connects two streets.
An alternative route exists, but it is longer and is less fun for me.
I have never tried descending there with my MTB, because if a pedestrian tries to ascend the staircase while I am going down, he will probably get scared.
Trying to think from the pedestrian's perspective:

The guy on the MTB doesn't look he is going to stop, and there is absolutely not enough space for him to pass by! So the only way to prevent a crash is to [do something desperate and stupid]!

Objectively, this is nonsense, because I have no problem stopping, and legally and ethically I am obliged to do so. But subjectively, the situation can be very intimidating. I guess that shouting something like "Don't worry, I'll let you pass" will only make it worse.
Can I prevent this situation?


texts:
Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts/suggestions on which direction bikes should sit on the roof

I've Thule bike carriers which can be left or right opening.

So do I place both bikes facing forwards, or do I have the bikes one front facing, one rear facing?

If the answer is simply try it and see, so be it, just wondered if anyone had experience of whether one option is easier for mounting the bikes, or provides less wind noise etc.etc.etc.

cheers


texts: How to use a single caliper truing stand (vs dual caliper)?

texts:
I have used a Park Tool TS2.2 on a bicycle course. It has a caliper for each side of the rim. As you turn the dial, both calipers converge evenly toward the rim. This allows you to know which side of the rim has the biggest wobble, and therefore which side needs adjusting next.

Single caliper truing stands measure only one side at a time. Let's say the caliper is on the left. A 'peak' is detected on the left side of the rim, you tighten the right hand side spokes. I get that if you repeat this process the wheel will eventually be true, but you've only tightened right hand spokes. Won't the rim be pulled over to one side and have an imbalance with tense right hand spokes and loose left hand spokes? We were taught not to adjust either side more than 3 times in a row (When needed, the instructor would 'kick out' one of the calipers when he only wanted to use the other one, by wedging a screwdriver underneath the one he didn't want to use)- we would use both left and right caliper, therefore tightening both sides of the spokes, which would be more balanced.

So in my example with the single caliper on the left, the only way to detect 'peaks' on the right hand side of the rim would be to look for gaps on the left hand side, using the caliper as a visual aid. This doesn't strike me as very precise. The only other way being to constantly flip the wheel in the stand.
I think there's something critical and probably obvious I'm missing here, help would be very much appreciated.


texts:
I have a roughly 15 year old bike. When I pedal there is a loud click. When I coast the sound becomes louder and more frequent. The sound really annoys me.

How do I fix this?


texts: Commuting to work for the first time, what do I need to bring?

texts:
I've never biked to work, but am going to start next week. It's only about 15 miles round trip. I'm using a single speed bike, but it should be fine because I've gone on farther trips.

Besides a change of clothes, what are the essential items that I need to bring with me? Safety is important so besides a helmet, what safety equipment do I need to have/use?

Any tips would also be helpful because I'm pretty new to this.


texts:
I've been using tubeless tires with great success on my mountain bike for a year or so, and the time is here to replace the wheels on my cross bike.  I was thinking of getting another pair of stan's rims (the Alpha 400 seems best suited for cross).  A little background on my riding - I use the cross bike for road/trail commuting, CX racing and general recreation.  I would guess that 30-35% of its' miles are off road, and a good bit of this is on rocky/rooty singletrack.

I'm a bigger guy also so when I flat it is typically a pinchflat.  The idea of a more flat-free commute has great appeal to me.  I'd assume the ability to run lower pressures would help a lot for the singletrack riding and the sloppier races as well.

Do tubeless tires offer significant benefits for a cyclocross bike?

The reason I ask is that I've heard horror stories about conversion kits on road wheels (most centered around the dreaded "burp"). Does a tubeless specific rim eliminate this? I'd assume that it does, but that opinion is largely formed by my experience with the stan's mountain bike rims.  I'd love to hear from anyone who has actually ridden a cross bike with tubeless tires and/or rims.


texts: What should I look for in a mountain bike for doing BMX-style balancing tricks?

texts:
When I was a kid I started learning to ride around on my back wheel and it was really difficult.  Then I tried doing it on a crappy CCM mountain bike we had (rather than my nice Gary Fisher Piranha) and it was much easier!  I could ride around balanced on the back wheel for a full minute, and was able to do other tricks more easily as well.

For reasons unknown to me, the CCM was much easier to balance in that position.  I'd like to fool around on my bike and learn some more tricks, but if I buy a new one it will be a mountain bike.  Which leads to my question: What do I need to look for in a mountain bike if I want to be able to do this stuff?  I can imagine it's related to the following, but I don't know exactly how:

Weight
Size
Shape?
Weight distribution
Other?

The CCM was heavier and taller, if that helps.


texts:
I'm planning to take my bike on this year vacation but I have certain dilemmas where and how to keep bike secure during my stay. Bike is nothing fancy (MTB, 26" wheels, full suspension bike with Manitou shocks, aluminum frame, new SLX groupset, Fox DOSS seat post...) more of a sentimental value because I put too much work and effort in maintaing it.

First of all, I'm staying at a hotel which doesn't have secure room for storing bikes and management doesn't allow keeping bikes in room or on balcony. Hotel only has bike racks at the entrance to each hotel wing (some of theme are covered with 'security' cameras) and most guest keep their bikes locked there. At night, those racks are in dark and I have no idea if I'll be able to see it from my room.

My concern is that by keeping my bike with other bikes (usually cheaper ones), it will stick out and be nice 'target' due to higher end parts and components.

The other option is to keep bike inside my car on unsecured parking lot (no street light, no surveillance) which is even further away from hotel and my car has no alarm to hear if someone tries to open it.

My bike will be unattended during night, and most of the day while not riding it (meals, going on beach...) I also considered leaving my bike at home and renting bike but prices are outrageous - so it isn't an option.

To be honest, at the moment I'm still searching for a decent bike lock so I have yet to solve that part of a problem (and I'm probably little paranoid when it comes to bikes).

Any ideas and suggestions how to secure bike (and enjoy vacation) are more than welcome.


texts: Are rear triangles made today made of thinner / less substantial materials than in the past?

texts:
I read this question posted by someone else (details below) but without any response:

One thing I've noticed about newer bikes vs bikes like this [referring to a Specialized Hardrock aluminum frame MTB] from
around 20 years ago is that the rear triangle of the older bikes are
typically a lot beefier.  on some of the newer bikes the rear looks
paper thin, particularly the seat stays.  What is your opinion on that
trend, are the beefier rear triangles from yesteryear better or the
newer, more forgiving modern frames that look like they have a lot
more flex to them?

(From a comment to video

             by 'madcapper6' -- though the comment was tangential to the main subject).
Firstly, is the core observation about rear triangles getting smaller accurate? Assuming its true, what's the reason for it?
This is somewhat of an opposite observation to another question (Why are bike frames getting so much bigger) which was about the embiggening of frame & some components.


texts: Will a 9 speed front derailleur work properly with a 10 speed sprocket?

texts:
I am pretty near done my current bike build project, just missing a front derailleur. I can't think of why front derailleurs would need to be compatible with different numbers of speeds, given that the width of the sprocket will be about the same for an 9 or 10 speed cassette.

So will it work? I bet it will.

edit, FYI: I have this installed and it has been working fine with a front derailleur marked as 9-speed for about 6 months.


texts: How much easier is cycling compared to walking or running?

texts:
I'm thinking of taking part in a cycling event, I'd like to do something that's about as challenging as running a half marathon (13 miles / 21 km). Approximately what distance should I be looking at?

I think in principal this could be worked out with a heart-rate monitor (if I had one):

Walk or run for (say) 15 minutes, note the heart rate and the
distance traveled
Cycle for the same length of time with the same
heart rate and note the distance traveled


texts: Bicycle Repair Stand Solutions for bikes with a Dropper style seatpost

texts:
Problem: I have at least one MTB with a dropper seatpost that does not allow for clamping on the seatpost itself and there is not enough room between the rear tire and seat tube to get the jaws in safely without binding the rear tire/wheel or risking damage to the frame. Obviously I do not wish to use any other frame tubes as clamping points but I still have the need to remove both front and rear wheels while clamped... I'm kind of at a loss as to how to approach this problem.

I have a stand that I've been using for a number of years that is the industry standard for clamping on a seat post but this new dropper just doesn't allow for that option. I have entertained making a suspended "stand" that is connected to my shop ceiling with pulley and connects to the bike at the handlebar/stem and at the rear seat stay bridge but the design is still bumbling around in my gray matter as to how to keep the bike in a stationary and rigid position so as to properly service it.

Anyone else here run into this issue or have experience with clamping MTB w/ dropper posts in a non-traditional work stand?


texts: What size nipple should I use for granny bike rim?

texts:
I am going to build my first wheel using the Ryde V38 rim (Westwood type).
The shop where I ordered the rim, says it has 5.5 mm spoke holes.

The nipples that come with the regular 2.34 mm (13 g) spokes are specified to have a 5.9 mm nipple head diameter.

It seems like that is a rather small overlap, so I am wondering if I should use "large head nipples" (7 mm) instead?


texts: Looking for alternate pants with 'snaps' around calf and/or shin area

texts:
Right now I have a pair of the prana Zion Stretch pants with these little 'snaps' around the area described in title. This allows you to basically roll up your pant leg(s) (ideal for moving out of the way of the chain) and 'snap' them into place. 'Snaps' being pairs of mating buttons closed by applying pressure.

I am looking for something similar, that is, something integrated into the pant itself, as opposed to a separate 'ankle collar' for any pants you like.


texts: How to cut a counterbore for chainring bolts with simple tools

texts: There are some 5-bolt 110mm BCD double cranks out there (FSA Tempo Adventure) that put the large ring on the inside of the spider tabs. I want to figure out a way to use whatever 110mm rings I want with them so I'm not tied to a specific, hard to get, iffy quality replacement FSA ring. What's the simplest way to cut a serviceable chainring bolt counterbore into a ring with an existing hole and counterbore on the other side?


texts:
I was using an old bike on a trainer and the tire fell to pieces.  I had a local bike shop replace the tire with a special CycleOps trainer tire but the tube kept going flat.

I just noticed that the trainer tire size is 700x23c and the original tire size is 700x28C.  Could this be the cause of the problem?  (The guy at the shop was telling me I'd have to replace the whole rear wheel - which would have cost more than the bike itself.)


texts: How much does an impact reduce helmet's ability to protect?

texts:
I read the answers to "When or how often should I replace my bike helmet?", but unfortunately none of the answers there cites any references.

Have there been any studies quantifying the claim of reduced protection after single impact, e.g. in terms of increased risk of injury?

It's easy to see reasons why manufacturers would want you to believe any impact kills the helmet - it's hard to set limits on potential damage, and buying a new helmet means additional profit.

Horse riding helmets come with similar warnings, but my first one seemed to survive several years while I was learning show jumping - including way more falls than I could have afforded new helmets.


texts:
I need to change my chainring(s) and am interested to know what the things to pay attention to are. The ones that are clear to me are:

the number of holes for the crank
bolt circle diameter
distance between the bolts

as somebody that has never done it, I'd think this would be enough, yet I have found some in a shop where the compatibility is explicitly stated to my cranks, but also some where the measurements are the same, and my cranks are not in the list of compatible ones. Is the list just incomplete or inaccurate, or are there also different factors to pay attention to?

For now I will buy some where the compatibility is explicitly stated, but would like to know more in general.


texts: How to access South County Trailway from Manhattan on a road bike?

texts:
I'm interested in riding the South Country Trailway in New York. From reading on the internet, it appears that the trail is paved, but the paving promptly ends at the start of the trail in Van Cortlandt Park and turns into dirt. I'll be coming up through Manhattan (over the Broadway Bridge I guess).

I'm riding a road bike with ~25s. Is the path through the park ridable if going slow, or is there another way to the trailhead that I should use?


texts:
I'm stuck on learning wheelie. I've read a few tutorials and watch some videos and now trying to repeat that. But I only able to raise front wheel for a second and half-rotate pedals. I prefer to use the highest gear (instead of low or medium) for this trick because it is easier to keep balance and also pedals feel more rough so I can stay on them while pulling the handlebar.

I thought that problem can be with my bike, so I've even set a shorter stem. It almost didn't help.

So what can you recommend for mastering the technique of wheelie?


texts: I am using Schwalbe lugano 700*25C for commuting, it's a almost brand new tyre with less than 500km. Recently I am starting to find some cuts around 1cm on my the tyre thread. Does anyone know what's the cause of a tyre cut? I inflate the tyre slightly above the max rated psi, is that part of the problem?


texts: How deep does snow have to be before it becomes unrideable?

texts:
I was going to go for an off road ride in the snow this weekend but I chickened out. Partly because it was cold but mainly because I have no experience riding in snow and wasn't sure whether I would get more than 10 metres from my house.

So this got me thinking, if you're riding off road on a path that is virtually untouched, how deep does it have to get to become unrideable?


texts: Tips for first time cyclist on 9W in NJ/NY

texts:
Not sure I can find a group in my area that fits for me. Up until now I've been mainly sticking to local rides in areas without a lot of car traffic. Lately I've been riding more with destinations in mind. I've never taken a bike ride from the George Washington Bridge up 9W towards NY but I would like to.

I mapped out the ride on google maps and it shows that sometimes you ride against traffic and sometimes you ride on the side with traffic. Could someone explain why and where you switch or have a cue sheet? Couldn't find a cue sheet online and the navigation on my android phone doesn't seem to support cycling which has caused me some problems when I've tried to use it on rides.


texts: Identify year of specialized s-works tarmac?

texts: Can anyone identify this specialized s-works tarmac? The seller says it's a 2013, but I haven't found it.


texts: How to remove alu seat post from carbon frame?

texts:
My aluminium seat post is seized into my carbon frame. To make matters worse the seat post is snapped at the seat post collar - nasty crash.

Anyone have a way to get it out? Or is it time for the dump?


texts: road bike - how to choose chainring (crankset) and cassette size?

texts:
I'm going through a 1st bike build (road bike) and looking for some advice on choosing chainring (crankset) and cassette size.

I'm pretty much decided on the Shimano Ultegra Groupset (6800), which I plan on purchasing from Chain Reaction:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6800-11-speed-groupset/rp-prod110818?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

I've already decided on crank length, so now it's down to chainring and cassette size.

My current cross bike is a Giant AnyRoad CoMax which has a 50/34 crank and 11x32 cassette.  This is pretty much perfect for this bike, on occasion downhill I'll be in 2-11, and on occasion on a super steep climb into the wind I'll be in 1-1.  This bike weighs about 22.75 lbs, and the road bike I'm building will weigh in at about 16 lbs, so I should be going at least a little bit faster.  The spread between the rear gears seems about right, I don't think I would like more fine spacing between gears.

Based on this, my inclination for my road bike build would be 52/36 & 11x32.  The odd thing is that I can't seem to find a single major manufacturer that uses this combination on a high-end road bike.  For example:

Trek Madone (50/34 & 11x28):
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road/madone/madone-9-5/p/1472000-2017/

Trek Emonda (50/34 & 11x28):
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road/%C3%A9monda/%C3%A9monda-slr-6/p/1470000-2017/

Trek Domane SL 8 (50/34 & 11x28):
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road/domane/domane-slr-8/p/1477400-2017/

Trek Domane SL 6 (50/34 & 11x32):
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road/domane/domane-sl-6/p/1460000-2017/

Specialized S-Works (52/36 & 11x28):
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/men/bikes/road/performance/sworks-tarmac-duraace/128538
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/men/bikes/road/performance/tarmac-pro-ultegra-di2/118441

Giant TCR (52/36 & 11x28):
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/tcr-advanced-sl-1

Felt FR1 (52/36 & 11x28):
http://www.feltbicycles.com/Global/2016/Bikes/road/race/FR/FR1.aspx

Is there some reason 52/36 & 11x32 seems to be a taboo choice by manufacturers?  The 11x32 I'm running on my cross bike currently seems to provide a fine choice between rear gears, if anything I wish the difference between gears was not quite so fine, so sticking with 11x32 at the rear and upping the front from 50/34 to 52/36 to adjust for anticipated slightly faster speed all round seems to be the natural choice.  Anybody have some thoughts or advice on this?


texts: Is there a polite way to take the centre of the road without antagonizing motorists?

texts:
The city I live in isn't especially well designed for cycling.

There are some streets with parallel parking on the sides, and in this situation it's safer to ride in the middle of the lane as to force cars to pull right over to pass, (or wait), rather than trying to squeeze past on the same lane.

However I get the feeling that this antagonises some motorists, even though it is the safest way to ride.

Is there a way to ride safely, while minimising motorist antagonism?


texts: Is 700c 25/32 iner tubes the same as 700c 18/25?

texts: I'm trying to replace inner tubes on my bike but I got ones that do not match the one that I am taking out of a wheel.


texts: Will microSHIFT ADVENT 9 speed handle 46t, 50t large sprockets?

texts:
Title says it all.

As we have 11-50t 9 speed cassetes available now, I was curious if anyone tried to use them with microSHIFT advent? or I have to be the first one to try it out?

That would be great wide range and inexpensive setup.


texts: Is there a standard equivalent for effort between distance and elevation?

texts:
I'm starting to keep track of how far I ride on paper and while it's nice to have the data, I'd like to know how different rides stack up.

I have one path I like to take which is really flat and goes about 30 miles out (I usually only do 10 and then turn around), but I've found this ride is much easier for me than the other route I take which nets me about 12 miles and about 500 feet in elevation.

I saw on another SE that they calculate 500 feet elevation gain into one mile, but this doesn't seem that accurate for a bike.

So, what I want to know is if there is a standard calculation for "effort" or distance between distance and elevation gain, given perhaps average speed or any other relevant factors.


texts: Recommendations for 'upgrading' gravel bike with road tires?

texts:
EDIT:  Several people have commented that I shouldn't ask for shopping recommendations -- fair enough, but really all I want is a more general discussion of the topic: whether it's a reasonable goal to try to make your gravel bike 'more road bike-like' with different tires, and how to achieve it.  You don't need to mention any specific products.

I have a 2020 Giant Revolt 3 (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/revolt-advanced-3) gravel bike that I ride 99% on tarmac.  I was considering a road bike, but as I was coming from a mountain bike background and had never ridden a road bike, this seemed a good compromise.  I thought I'd be taking it out on gravel trails, but with Covid restrictions (we are confined to a pretty small area) and the fact that I am trying to avoid train travel (again, due to Covid), I'm riding it pretty much only on the road.
My bike shop said it's almost time to replace the tires and I'm looking for recommendations for new tubeless tires.  I'm wondering whether there is any choice that would move me a little bit in the 'road bike direction' in terms of reducing drag and increasing performance, but maintain the grip and stability, particularly in wet weather, that I've gotten used to.
Most important is maintaining safety (grip and cornering, particularly going downhill, and in the wet), but, as said, I'd be keen to see if I can get a little more "quickness" (trying to move in the 'road bike' direction, that is, reducing drag while riding).  Is it possible to maintain the same level of safety with a 'road tire'?
Finally, is my goal even a reasonable one? I checked out How much energy is lost with a gravel tire compared with a road tire? and while there is a difference in running gravel tires or 'road' tires, I am not sure how important it is.
For what it's worth, I ride mainly up and down on hills (daily climb is about 600m), and live in the EU (so I'd need to buy the tires here).  The rims are Giant S-X2 Disc, and the current tires are Giant Crosscut AT 1, 700x38.
Thanks!


texts: do I need to change my disc if the brake pads got oil on them

texts: In trying to change the brake pads on my mountain bike, I managed to get oil on my new pads and empty out all the brake fluid, and consequently also get some oil on the disc. I took the bike to the shop and they are now telling me I need to change the pads and the disc. I can understand the pads, but do I really need to change the disc or is the guy (girl actually) just scamming me. The disc is not soaking in oil, from what I can tell it just has a bit of oil here and there.


texts:
I'm a guy with banged up knees. I'm trying to decide if it is worthwhile for me to splurge for a high-end bike fitting or go with a more ordinary fitting or skip getting a fitting altogether.

Background

One of my knees is missing a whole lot of articular & meniscal cartilage.
I'm experiencing knee pain while going for relatively short distances (at the beginning of the ride & after 10-12 miles).
I ride with Speedplay Frog pedals. I'm turning 49.
haven't had a fitting since January 2012.
I don't race or do group rides.
If my knees were solid, I'd like to do social rides or even go touring.
I ride a Surly LHT & use it for commuting & shopping.

It is more accurate to say I "used" the bike for those purposes. I'm pretty much not riding now because doctors have told me that knee pain=fresh damage. I have the option to get 1) a run of the mill fitting similar to the 2012 fitting from a well-regarded bike shop or 2) get a fitting from a physical therapist who works with racers, triathletes, etc. I've been to a lot of physical therapists & surgeons without much result at this point. (Most seem have expertise with runners but none have any background with bikes.)

My last fitting was useful but I can't say it was ever quite right. I had joint issues back then which likely made the fitter's job impossible. I went back to the fitter a few times without much success. I mean, there are only so many adjustments you can make to the seat position right?

At this point, I'm looking to avoid throwing more good money & time after bad. Maybe I should just get platform pedals? I keep seeing posts pointing to clipless pedals as causes of knee issues.

Perhaps I should just get a recumbent to limit knee strain?

Hi everybody,
Thanks for the rapid & thoughtful responses. I was very interested to read about Power Cranks and Highpath engineering's split cranks. Here is some more background & some responses to the recommendations:

I have 150 mm crank arms mounted.
I am slow on the cadence. My core is weak so my pelvis wobbles at higher RPMS.
I’m sure I need work on my pedaling technique. When I try to pull up on the pedals, I end up with tendonitis behind the knee.
I’m happy to warm up with a gentle beginning to a ride but I’m getting pain pretty much pulling out of the driveway, before I have a chance to start the warmup.
I don’t really trust the physical therapist/fitter I found. He works with a sports medicine doctor I found & both run a “factory” practice. They move you in & out on the clock. I have some complex medical issues & neither showed any appetite for exploring them during a recent evaluation. My sense is they are there to make money & serve racers. I won't get either of them any publicity & so am not useful. I've run into providers like this before. They have the skill to help but maybe not the will.
I’d be happy to see someone other than the PT/fitter but have had little luck in finding someone  with expertise in both bikes & rehabilitation.
I did find a fitter at the bike shop who worked for a couple years as a physical therapy assistant. I could see him as well.
Based on the above do any of you have further thoughts?


texts:
I just got an old bike from the 80-90s from my grandfather and I wold like to repair and clean it to use it as backup bike.

This bike has a lot of holes in the mudguard, is it decoration or dit it had a purpose?

Here is a photo of the bike:

PD: This holes are only in the rear mudguard.


texts: Ambidextrous backup downtube shifter for touring?

texts:
I'm heading out on a long tour soon on a bike with Shimano STI shifters. That choice was intentional as I don't like bar-ends. However, I notice the gear cables run through stops at downtube shifters bosses and I'm curious if there's a type of cheap friction shifter that would mount on those and could be used on either side that I could carry as an emergency replacement in case an STI ever crapped out.

Here is a picture of the bosses on this bike:

If someone could point to one or more specific models that would fit this, that would be great. Again, the emphasis is on cheap. If I break an STI, I would only need this to limp a day or two to the next major city (tour is in Canada). So I don't want to drop $100+ on some bespoke hand-milled stainless steel shifter.


texts: How can I make my bike (and myself) visible at night?

texts: By winter I will be commuting on my bike at night. How can I make my bike as visible as possible to all car drivers?


texts: Is it possible to use custom maps on Sigma ROX 12?

texts:
I wonder if it's possible to somehow upload custom maps to Sigma ROX 12 bike computer? The default map that is available on it for my country is not very good, so I want to customize it.

p.s.
When I say "maps" I mean maps and not routes.


texts: Huffy Cranbrook 26" Ladies' Cruiser crank / pedal / chain "pop" sound...?

texts:
Before you say it's a cheap bike, what more do you want... I get that! :D
But it's brand new, and as you pedal it... no matter the speed, you get a pop sound at a specific point on each rotation...

What could / should I do to help silence this sound and make the ride more enjoyable.

Please advise if you can!

VIDEO UPDATE:
I uploaded this video of the happenings ;)


texts: What are my options - TA to QR conversion

texts:
I’ve just bought these wheels on gumtree and didn’t realise they were thru axle as I require quick release for my cx bike (BH RX team cross 2014 https://issuu.com/bhbikesusa/docs/bh_bikes_2014-2015_catalog/12?ff). The wheels are bontrager tubeless ready rims , with alloy sealed bearings, 12 mm alloy axle, CenterLock. They are off of a trek checkpoint (https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/road-bikes/gravel-bikes/checkpoint/checkpoint-sl/checkpoint-sl-5/p/24387/?colorCode=red)

Am I able to swap out the TA end caps for QR end caps? And what is the requirement for the rear wheel by comparison to the front. Having installed a 10 speed cassette I can’t see how an end cap will integrate.

Thanks in advance,

J!


texts:
I'm about to go look at a 1972 Raleigh.  The seller says that the bike slips out of third gear into neutral.  Is this a simple fix (e.g. a cable adjustment), or should I stay away from such a purchase?

Also, when I go to inspect the bike, what should I look for to determine the difficulty of this repair?


texts: Can I use 53-39T chain rings with compact cranks?

texts:
I have shimano 105 5700 compact  crank(50-34T).
Can I use 53-39T chain rings with compact right arm.


texts:
I recently popped the tube in my front tire and need help replacing it. I don't really know very much about bikes or the assortment of numbers on tubes, tires, and wheels. Here is what I do know:

The tire that popped has 700x35/43C on it.

The spare that I got when I bought the bike has A2 25/32 x 622/635 on it.

I was told that the spare is not the right size for my bike. I inflated it just a bit to see what it looked like in my tire and it does seem a bit small as it looks like it has a bit of room.  .

I just got a spare tube that has a schrader valve and learned that those cannot fit through the hole in my wheel. I'm not sure but I think this is the type of tube I need to get http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Bicycle-Presta-25-35c-27-Inch/dp/B002K2DQ4S/ref=sr_1_10?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1337452869&sr=1-10 700 x 35-45c or 700 x 25-35c as I was told I need 35 to be in the range of the second set of numbers. Is this correct? Can I get these with a presta valve in a store (like Target, Walmart, etc local large merchant) or should I just order and wait?

For additional info: My actual wheel says it is 622x17 6061H-T6. On the inside of the wheel groove it looks like it is stamped 900x16. It looks like the tire name and brand is Alexrims G6000. It is a hybrid bike.


texts:
I'm building a bike for a woman who injured her hands in a fall and who now experiences pain when using trigger shifters. She does a little better with grip-shifters though even their resistance gives her trouble if she has to shift often. Does a NuVinci hub with its continuous/stepless grip-shifter have a mechanism that is easier to twist than a normal grip-shifter?
BTW, is NuVinci still in the human-powered bicycle business? Some links on their web page go to non-existent pages, and they don't have any dealers in my metro area, which has over 6 million people.


texts: what is the average weight of a male professional cyclist?

texts: I just want to get an idea of what the ideal weight of a male rider is in the professional races.


texts: How to select bottom bracket spindle width?

texts:
I'm trying to rebuild a bike that I got given free of charge. The bike had no bottom bracket in when it was given to me. How do can I select the optimal spindle width please? I know it's 68mm shell.

Edit: I don't have a local bike shop nearby so I can't take it to one as per suggestions in a previous thread.

Edit: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-un55-square-taper-bottom-bracket/rp-prod71369 is the bottom bracket that I need. English thread, 68mm x Y. Unfortunately I'm unsure of what Y should be. By the look of Sheldon Brown I need 47.5mm from the middle chain ring from the centre of the seat post (measuring to that sort of accuracy could be fun). This is where I'm baffled. I could order a sacrificial bottom bracket to measure what size I need by seeing how far out of 47.5mm I am. Is that what I'm going to have to do?

Edit: I do have a crack. It was a spare one I had left over from a few years ago. It's a triple chainset one by SRAM called Truvativ Isoflow.


texts: Why are regenerative brakes uncommon on e-bikes?

texts:
Few electric bicycles have regenerative braking. Most quality e-bikes seem to be settling on mid-drive, which even makes regenerative braking impossible because there is a freewheel between the wheel and the drive, and the rear derailleur as the chain tensioner!
Why is this the case?  Why are regenerative brakes rare?


texts: Run tubeless tire on standard rim as long as I use a tube?

texts: I have some standard rims and I (accidentally) bought tubeless tires. As long as I use rim tape and a tube, can I run these tubeless tires? I know I won't be able to run low tire pressure. But if the tube holds all the pressure is there any danger of the bead unseating?


texts: Can I use a Brompton bike with a trailer like the Thule Chariot Cougar?

texts: I wonder if I can use a Brompton bike with a trailer like the Thule Chariot Cougar? It uses the so called Thule Axle Mount and I wonder if it is compatible to the bike. At this point, it is just advanced planning and I can't test the possible setup. What do you think, any experiences?


texts:
I'd like to be able to go to a grocery (or some other) store on my commute from work. I've got a rear rack (b-tween).
I know, that I can permanently mount a basket on it, but I'd prefer not to since it makes noise, can be too wide and so on (and looks uncool for me, yes).

So, are there any folding baskets or some alternatives to use?

edit
The accepted answer is not about baskets, that's true, but it really about a thing I needed.

To clarify: I want something that I can fold and put inside my backpack (not a big one) and unfold when needed.