texts: Changing rims from 29 inch to 27.5 inch, V-brake problem

texts:
I own an old MTB bike, it's beaten up and I'm planning to restore it.
Everything is already done, groupset, crankset, the fork, etc.
The MTB itself is a 29 inch frame and since I want to give this bike to my adult friend with height only 158 cm, I want to change the rim to 27.5 inch
Here lies the problem, the V brake is not low enough to grip the tire when I try to brake
Any solution?
Thanks


texts:
My hardtail MTB was stolen. As a result I started looking for a new bike.

After much research, I realized that most of the biking I have been interested in over the last few years seems to fit the bill for this newfangled thing they are calling a gravel bike.

So I got a Specialized Diverge Comp E5 with Future Shock. I am riding in a new posture and for the first time in my life attempting to ride the drop-handlebar posture as I have never ridden a road bike or anything like it.

I have much to write about this machine, and my experience of it, but for this post suffice to say the following:

I am amazed how different everything is. It's like learning to ride all over again. I feel either exhilarated or terrified most of the time, the latter especially downhill over MTB type stony terrain.
The bike fit is not yet right. I need to tune it. But it is not very off.
After doing even short rides on asphalt/tarmac/paving, say to the tune of 30km, I am absolutely knackered. 2 days on my thighs are killing me.

Is this normal for switching bike types? I was planning a longer trip in the next few days but right now I don't have the confidence. I think I may have to delay as everything seems so shockingly different and  my body is in permanent tension. What should I expect in this situation?


texts: Canyon Strive AL 6.0 - SRAM GXP or a Pressfit GXP bottom bracket?

texts: Does the 2016 Canyon Strive AL 6.0 Race have a SRAM GXP or a Pressfit GXP bottom bracket?


texts: I recently bought a bike and upon riding it and coasting for a relatively short time I heard a noise that sounded like the chain sort of clicking louder than the freewheel, then eventually the chain jumped up and I’ve been having this issue ever since


texts: Difference between thick vs thin front suspension?

texts:
I visited a bicycle shop a few days ago. I noticed two different types of bikes. One with thick front suspension and the other with thin front suspension. Bike with the thick suspension was more expensive.
Does thick suspension provide benefits or just add weight?
Is thin suspension more better than thick one?

Thick Suspension:

Thin Suspension:

Full Images:


texts: Which new road bikes can have seat height 890mm or more?

texts:
I'm looking for a new aero road bike. I'm a tall person. And from past experiences and from bike-fiting advices I need a seat height of around 890-895mm.
I checked Cannondale, BMC, Factor, Orbea. They don't have any model that can have that seat height.

Giant Propel can have it but currently it's not in stock and it'll be earliest next fall.

Canyon can also have, but after the recent seatpost drama, they don't have the stock and I'm not sure I want the Canyon bikes.

Trek Emonda/Madone can have it. But from past experiences, I do not want another Trek bike.

What other bike brands and models can have that seat height?


texts: Is there a headlight/taillight system that can be turned on with one switch, rather than turning on 2-4 lights each individually?


texts: Shimano crankset is near end of life, can I use a Tiagra 4700 replacement?

texts: My road bike was bought in 2015 with a mix-match drive train: my derailleurs and shifters are Tiagra 4600 but the crankset is a Sora 9 speed (50-34). The large plate teeth are now quite worn out and I am foreseeing a replacement in short term. Tiagra 4600 is now discontinued, as it has been many years since the release of 4700. I do want to buy a new crankset, in that price range, going second hand is not cost efficient (my personal take). Can I just buy a 4700 crankset? The botton bracket is a hollowtech 2. I know that shifters and derailleurs are not compatible between 4600 and 4700 because of a different pulling mechanism, but the crankset should be compatible as both are 10 speeds. No?


texts: Void in carbon frame seat tube, is it dangerous?

texts:
While assembling a carbon bike, I found this void in its seat tube. It's about 1/2 inch X 1/4 inch in size and I'm guessing almost a third to half the depth of the tube wall.

Since it's right next to the clamp, it looks like a catastrophic failure waiting to happen. What would be your opinion about this? Would this bike be safe to ride? Is there anything that can be done to repair it?


texts: Should I bike or drive to work? (6.8 mi)

texts:
I am moving next month and I need to figure out how to get to work.

Option one is driving to work, which will take 15 to 20 minutes one-way.
Option two is biking, which will take about 35 minutes according to Google Maps.

The distance is 6.8 miles one-way, and the road is mostly flat.

Assuming money/cost is not an issue, which option would you recommend? I really like the idea of biking to work, because I sit in my cubicle all day, and I want to incorporate some exercising to my commute (currently I walk 20 minutes to get to work.) My main concern is that I am not athletic enough to bike 6.8 miles one way. Is that a doable distance for beginners?

Thanks!!


texts: Are cycling shoes comfortable as everyday wear?

texts:
I'm currently traveling to work by bike. I intent to by a new sport shoes and discovered that there is such thing like special cycling shoes?

My question: Are they appropriate for wearing in the office, or I need to bring another pair of shoes and change before/after cycling?

EDIT: This seems reasonable for me (from Benzo answer).

"If your commute is short, you can always try your regular office shoes. They may not be 'optimal' for cycling, but you don't always have to have specialized gear to ride a bike. Do what works and what you're comfortable with."


texts: Wahoo Speed sensor: how does it work, exactly?

texts:
The Wahoo Speed sensor doesn't use a magnet to count the RPM, it's a single-unit and "(...) a 3-axis accelerometer is used to determine the rotation of the hub and thus your speed" (source)

How does it derive the speed from RPM, given there's no need to input the wheel/tyre size at any point? As a matter of fact, I don't think there's even such option in the ELEMNT smartphone app.

Edit: After several people pointed it out I found the option to set the wheel size, which implies that "automatic" is the default. The question still stands: how does "automatic" work?


texts:
This is hypothetical in the spirit of a recent question about derailleur cables, but I've seen two bikes being pushed with broken rear derailleurs in the last few days.

What are likely causes of broken rear derailleurs (commuting /road especially; I assume that in MTB it's hitting stuff). Alternatively what can we do to avoid it? I've worn one out but never broken one.

Perhaps more importantly, if a rear derailleur breaks on the road, what can a rider do, and what tools would they need?


texts: Picking the appropriate hybrid bike frame size

texts: I am a 5'8" tall female. Which hybrid or fitness style frame size would most likely fit me better, 17" or 19?"


texts: Do city bikes and hybrid bikes have different frame geometries that cause a performance difference?

texts:
I currently have a hybrid bike with a flat handlebar that I ride on roads for exercise and leisure. I want to replace it with a bike with an IGH and coaster brake so that less maintanence is required, but all bikes I can find with that are "city" bikes. I've ridden a few city bikes before and they are much harder to pedal than my hybrid bike - on flat ground. Why is that?
Some factors are IGH vs derailleur, weight and tires. Two other factors are saddle height+shape and handlebar height+type. The two last factors can be mitigated on a city bike. But is there something intrinsic to a city bike frame that makes it comfortable for relaxed and lazy riding, but that makes it hard to pedal when you want to go fast? Or will a city bike be like a hybrid bike if the saddle and handlebar are adjusted/changed to reflect a typical hybrid bike?


texts:
Can I use a single speed crank (like a Shimano Vee) paired with an 7 speed rear derailleur and 10 speed 12-32 rear cassette to make an inexpensive 1x10 gearing, for non-technical trail riding?

Is there something special about the more expensive components that are devoted to 1x gearing?


texts: Stainless steel bolts for brake calipers

texts:
I'm wanting to replace the bolts used to hold my cantilever brakes on as they've rusted and look pretty terrible on an otherwise clean bike. Is it ok to use stainless (A2-70 or A4-70) for these or would I be better with mild steel and replacement more often?
I'm less concerned about the rear as the braking force pushes the calipers into the frame, but if a bolt head breaks off on the front under braking it would turn fairly ugly.


texts: Can anyone suggest a way to mount my rack to prevent it impeding the rear brake?

texts:
I have a topeak rear rack the mounting of which is interfering with the operation of the rear brake.

Unfortunately, my frame (a 2009 Scott Sportster P4) only has mounting lugs on the outside of the seatstay meaning that the rack's mounting arms just touch the outside of metal sheath around the brake cable. The brakes still apply but the cable is not free to move as it should be. A pretty standard V-brake setup.

Does anyone have any good ideas for a mounting solution that would enable me to mount the rack in such a way that the mounting arms bend in more quickly to avoid the brakes?

I'm tempted to heat up the arms and bend them with a wrench - any concerns or recommendations?


texts: what make and model is this bike please?

texts:
Please help me identify this bike, I have looked in a
multitude of places and come up with nothing.
It looks to be a beach cruiser.


texts:
I have some clipless pedals I salvaged (part of a crankset) and installed on my bike. It's the winter right now and I don't really want to be clipped in. I don't want to replace the pedals either - mainly because one of them is stuck :)

Do they make some kind of clip on platform for clipless pedals that I can install in lieu of the proper shoes?


texts: Help identifying this rear-wheel part (photo)

texts:
I took off my rear wheel, and this fell out on the floor:

Is this a "rear wheel axle"?

It looks like it should indeed be in one piece instead of two. I would like to order a replacement for this part(s) without having to replace the entire rear wheel.


texts:
I was helping a friend build a bike from used ultegra 6700 components, and for some reason the shifting levers feel really stiff or difficult to shift, particularly when increasing in cable tension (down shifting the rear or up shifting the front).

I don't feel any resistance in shifting when the cables are disconnected from the derailleurs. Not sure if this means the issue is possibly caused by something other than the shifters, or if the shifters only display the issue when tensioned.

Any thoughts?


texts: Replacement for Suntour NCX-410 crankset on commuter bike?

texts:
I've had a 2007 Marin Larkspur which I have been using as a commuter and recreation bicycle for 3.5 years. For the past year, I've been slowly learning to do my own repairs and upgrades as they have come up. I recently upgraded the chain and rear cassette (SRAM PG-830 and PC-830, respectively).

Now it seems like my crankset is acting up. My middle chainring is quite worn and with the new chain especially it tends to skip very easily on hills. Based on Marin's specs, the bike should have a Suntour NCX-410 crankset, and I've been told that I can't simply replace the chainrings on this part. I've done some reading (Todd Downs, Zinn books) about cranksets and bottom brackets while cross-referencing with Marin's specs. I think my bike has a sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket, but I don't know anything about its size, etc.

I'm looking to this community for a recommendation on a good-quality but budget crankset with replaceable chainrings that will either work with my current bottom bracket (if it doesn't need to be replaced, how to tell?) or that would work with a modest bottom bracket purchase as well. I'm looking for the best value given that long-term cost of upkeep is a large factor in my upgrade/repair decisions.

Thanks in advance.


texts:
I have a 1996 mongoose bike and I need to replace the front rim 20x1.95
All I can find is 20x1.75
Can I use a 1.95 tire on a 20x1.75 rim


texts:
I was investigating some weird noise when riding the bike and I realized the sound is made by some small elastic spikes on the tires hitting the chainstays.
Do these spike have a role or they are just leftovers from the manufacturing process? Is it OK to cut them?


texts: The following images shows the tyre sizes of my hybrid bike. I need to buy an inner tube with presta valve. I can't seem to figure out which size I should buy though. Can someone please point me to the right tube size for my bike?


texts: Compatibility of 38T chainrings to Deore crank

texts:
My bike (Canyon Pathlite 5) has an "FC-M5100-1, DEORE" crankset and a "Shimano Deore M5100 11s 11-51" cassette. Instead of the 32 teeth on the front chainring, I'd like to change to 38 teeth (maybe elliptical) (of course with an appropriate longer chain).
Are there any hidden compatibility issues, or is any chainring with the following specifications suitable?

96 mm BCD
4-arm asymmetrical
1x11 Shimano

Examples:

https://www.bike-components.de/de/Stronglight/HT3-Kettenblatt-Shimano-FC-M9000-11-fach-4-Arm-96-mm-Lochkreis-p58108/
https://www.bike-components.de/de/Wolf-Tooth-Components/96-BCD-Kettenblatt-fuer-Shimano-XT-M8000-SLX-M7000-p63953/
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/katana-razorblade-oval-narrow-wide-kettenblatt-96mm-990307
https://r2-bike.com/GARBARUK-Kettenblatt-Round-1-fach-narrow-wide-LK-96-Shimano-XTR-M-9000-9020-Kurbel_1
https://r2-bike.com/GARBARUK-Chainring-Melon-oval-1-speed-narrow-wide-BCD-96-Shimano-XTR-M-9000-9020-Crank


texts: Are thru-axles generally hollow or solid?

texts: Need to know if these thru axles (of any size) have an internal diameter or are completely solid. How common is each type?


texts: Is it worth swapping two front-wheel hubs?

texts:
I have an old Bontrager Select rim with cartridge bearings and a newer Syncros Race 27 with loose ball bearings.

Both are 20 spoke, would it be worth it to swap the hubs? Or would it even be possible?


texts:
My black Marin bike was stolen this weekend and I need to identify the year, model, and estimated price for my insurance claim.
I have a picture of it below. I bought it around the year 1999 but don't have any receipts from then.
I'd welcome any suggestions. Thank you!


texts: Waterproof spray or waterproof pannier cover?

texts:
Does anyone have experience with either waterproofing panniers with a waterproof spray or using waterproof covers for panniers? Which one was best?

I don't want to invest in waterproof panniers as I will be using dry bags anyway but it would be nice to see some repellent action going on.


texts: What width between dropouts is suitable for a hub of Xmm?

texts:
For a hub of 120mm, what would the dropout spacing be on a typical frame?

Or for 130mm, or other sizes - in each case, how close to the hub width should one expect the frame spacing to be?


texts:
Do you know the make of this BMX bike?  The only identifying mark is a stamped M on the rear of bike.

 Picture of frame stamped on trackend/dropout at right-rear of bike.


texts: How to pull a carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame?

texts:
How do I pull out a carbon seatpost on a carbon frame?
It seems so hard for me...
Do I need a special tool, or just ask help from a local bike shop?

done with the seatpost.
I made the frame and fork reversed hold the bottom bracket with my tripod, install a saddle on it and gave a big bang on the saddle about 20 times and done.


texts: I'm considering switching from alloy to carbon wheels - just a question regarding that & brakes. Would I need different pad materials from the standard sort of pad material (or even a whole different type of brake mechanisms)?


texts: Does an adapter for my 12x142mm thru axle frame exist to use QR hubs?

texts:
I'm specifically looking to adapt the rear thru axle (12x142mm) to fit onto a standard QR hub/axle on my direct drive trainer. Unfortunately, my trainer is too old (original Elite Turbo Muin), so it cannot be converted using a converter like Wahoo and Tacx have. I think I have to add things to the bike side if I want to make it work without having to buy a new trainer. I feel like it should be possible to have a piece fit in to the drive side of the thru axle to let a QR skewer screw in and another piece on the non-drive side to fill in the gap and sit on the axle itself. I would then send the skewer through the whole thing.

Is this possible? If not, why?


texts:
I'm getting tired of debugging this noise, which seems to come from the back. I have sent it to the bike shop, for the second time, and they couldn't fix it. This sound came around 2 weeks after I bought it.It's not just sound; you can feel it in with every pedals revolution.

They guy said the bottom bracket was loose, and that he greased, lubed and tightened everything. For a while it was smooth, but 2 hours later it returned. It seems to come from the back (I always believed it was the pedals because you felt it there), but once I went down and got a friend to ride it it most definitely comes from the gears in the back. It can't be replicated but under tension and the most use the worse it get. I only use the bike to go to work, I honestly don't know how it got that bad.

============

Update: they replaced the casette and I haven't heard the sound so far.


texts: swapping crankset and chainline compatibility

texts:
I'm looking into placing a power2max powermeter on my bike, which is full Ultegra equipped (R8000). Now, the chainline specs of the crankset from p2m are either 45mm or 46mm (depending on the brand of the cranks), whereas Shimano's FC-R8000 specs at 43.5mm.

Are there any issues in swapping the cranksets, or am I facing some trouble or sketchy adjustments?


texts: What components are required to upgrade from a 14 speed to 24 speed?

texts:
I made the mistake of buying a 14 speed bike... I live in WA so it's hills everywhere you turn, took it for a spin yesterday and while on flat surfaces it felt great, but taking hills or going down a massive hill, I was totally limited on my gear options.

What components are required to do this upgrade? I'm not looking to go all out, I'm just starting to train for my first sprint tri.

Here are my current components for my Motobecane Mirage S.

These are my specific questions

Do I need a new chain, or will this chain be compatible with an upgrade to 24 speed
I need new Cassette/Freewheel, right?
I need new shifters (I'm assuming 3X8... as its 3x8 is it pretty much compatible with any 24 speed upgrade?)
I need a new Rear Derailleur? (This should be an 8 speed correct?)
Do I need a new front derailleur? If so, do the front and rear derailleurs need to be compatible.

I just want to make sure I'm not buying these new components to install and find out it wont work because they are not compatible. I'm pretty new to this so I need some advice. We do all our bike work/upgrades ourselves to save money.


texts: Where can I buy spares for a Sussex shaft drive?

texts:
The crank arms and the crank shaft for my Dynamic Tempo 8 appear to be completely worn. Both crank arms just flop about when pedalling. Rumour has it that Dynamic have gone bust, but does anyone know where spare parts might still be available?
The crank arms themselves appear to be Truative powersplines.


texts: Converting road hydraulic disc brakes to flat bar : Possible?

texts:
I bought a road bike recently and find the road position too uncomfortable for commuting in the city, especially for reaching the brakes fast and slaloming between cars. Therefore, I would like to convert it to a flat bar.

My only issue is with the hydraulic disc brakes (Shimano BR-RS505), is it possible to just replace the levers with other levers ?
I understand there is a specific volume of oil that is 'moved' by the lever, but assuming any XC or DH lever has a higher pressing volume, it should work no ?
Has anyone gone through such a process ? Is there anything I should be aware of prior to having my brakes undergo surgery ?


texts: Fork swap possible or not worth it? Fat bike tapered

texts:
I got a Fat Bike With a FAT Fork that is tapered. For summer riding, I swap out to a 29+ 2.2” Wheelset.   However, That Fat fork just feels like an anchor and I’d love to be able to swap it out too for a slimmer, lighter Surly Ogre or Krampus fork. IF POSSIBLE.  These Surly forks are a strait 1-1/8” tube.

1) Can I use some sort of tapered to strait adaptor?  And how complex for a non-mechanic/ tinker level novice?

2) Are there comparable tapered forks like the Surly ones mentioned I should consider instead?   I want something with a lot of mounting zits for bikepacking.

3) Other solutions besides buying a new bike?

This is my Fat Bike spec:


texts: Can a climbing helmet be used for biking safely?

texts:
I have a Black Diamond HalfDome helmet I use for rock climbing.

Is it safe for me to bike with it or should I wear a regular helmet?


texts: New inner tube bulges near the valve when inflated

texts:
I've installed a new inner tube in my wheel. I checked the tube doesn't make a knot. When I inflate the tube, it bulges near the valve, and this rubs against  the brakes.

REF tube: 32/47 609/642

REF tyre: 42-622 700 x 40C

What could be the cause of this (wrong size of inner tube?) and how can I fix it?

PS: I'm not sure if it's a dup of Uneven inner tube when inflated inside the tyre?

Thanks.


texts: So, I'm buying a bike to use during a summer before I go back home. I found this bike that I'm interested in buying however it's extremely rusty. I'd like opinions on whether this is a DIY clean up, or if I'll have to spend a lot at a bike shop. I have 0 knowledge of bike repair/maintenance, so if it would involve anything more complicated than rubbing it down with some product/aluminum foil, I need to know. Thanks]1


texts: How can I move the handlebars on a mountain bike close to the rider without affecting handling and control?

texts:
I recently finished building up a mountain bike, with the help of a friend. My initial rides - a few miles, nothing too extensive yet - revealed that I need to move the handlebars a bit up and back towards the saddle to make my elbows happy; I prefer them to be bent more than they are now. I can think of two ways to do this: Raise the bars or bring them closer in, or a bit of both. (The stem is already at the top of the fork steerer tube, and I'd prefer not to get an extender on this bike.)

Background

The drivetrain is a Shimano mountain set I pulled off a hardtail 80's steel-frame mountain bike (upgraded in the noughties), hung on a hardtail 90's Specialized Stumpjumper frame (an aluminum frame with slightly more aggressive geometry). Neither bike had any suspension at all, including the front fork. (Due to my preferences. Suspension is nice, but I dislike the slight loss of feedback.)

I'd like to know what these changes are likely to do, and, possibly even more importantly, why this is the case.

Option 1: Get a smaller stem

This is an easy one, as the existing stem is quite long. Whatever I do, I'll want to bring the bars in. However, I could also look for a stem with a steeper angle while I'm at it. How will these changes affect how the bike handles? Will a shorter stem make the bike more twitchy, or less? (I quite like the way it feels right now.)

Option 2: Get some riser bars

This is a fairly simple way to get the bars closer to me. Rotating the bars one way or another will give me more options. However, I quite like the existing flat bar, as the simplicity of it is appealing from an aesthetic standpoint. Will riser bars affect the feel and handling of the bike?

Summary

I have two possibilities, and (I'm guessing) combining both approaches will likely be what I end up doing. Before I start ordering parts, which of these is likely to give me the correct reach while preserving the feel of the bike as it is now, and why? Are there options that I haven't thought of?


texts: What is a power meter and why do I need one?

texts:
So I've been looking to become a triathlete soon and I'm hearing all this talk about power meters.

Now, upon googling I found vague information which is why I came here. Exhibit A. That article gives me some sort of idea but it's not good enough, questions that remain unanswered are:

Is this another toy to measure data when you train so you know how you've trained?
Does it help in any way during a training session?
More details… how does it all work? There are heart rate zones and I'm told to run/cycle in a certain zone while training … anything similar for power meters?
Lastly and most importantly, I am a beginner/intermediate (ran a few mediocre run and cycle races).
Will a sports watch (say Garmin Forerunner 920xt with the run HRM) be good enough?


texts: Sticky/Not fully returning ultegra r8070 brake lever

texts:
Got this used di2 equipped bike with what seemed to be just a spongy front brake. Bleeding as per manual. Still "mushy". Emptied the line and disconnected the hose. The lever just don't return all the way back on its own. Removed the lever from the bars and can't see any obvious problems. It just moves half way back after being pressed normally and slows down in the second half of the travel. Then stops at about 1mm from the proper position. And I can push it to return. Pressing it quickly a few times makes it snappy again for a few returns and then it slows again.
My guesses went from cylinder, to dirt, to di2 cable stuck between the springs or the springs mounted incorrectly but just impossible to understand what's going on inside without removing the lever. And I'd rather not just dump a degreaser or wd-40 into a di2 brifter...
Any clues or similar experiences?
Update: took it to another LBS and the owner said he has "a friend that works for Shimano" so I left it there ATM for the "friend" to check.


texts: What is the best aero position in a mountain bike?

texts:
I'm familiar with TT and road bikes with aero bars. However, I don't know what is the ideal aero position for a normal MTB (no aero bars).

I did some search and found these pics.

Hands on the middle of handlebar mimicking position on road bikes:

Source: www.cxmagazine.com

Hands on grips, leaning forward:

Source: www.solobike.it

I asked the question because my training program says "maintain aero position for x time". Wanted to make sure I'm doing it right.


texts:
Lately I have noticed that, whenever I use the bar-end lever to shift the gears up (both front and rear) for the first couple of actions the lever feels loose: it moves to the end of its range without any action, then at the third time the shift is executed. For the rest it works smoothly.

What should I check to fix the issue?

The bike started showing this behavior after the winter break. It was stored in closed place, and I first noticed it after having transported it in the trunk of my car for the first ride of the season.


texts: Presta valve in a Schrader rim hole: How to use / do I need a rim hole reducer?

texts:
I have a road bike here with 622-16 wheels and Schrader valves. As I needed to replace a tube, I found that most options in the 622-23 size use Presta valves.
I read around a bit and found people suggesting rim hole reducers as in Can I use a Presta tube in a Schrader rim? among other places.

This didn't sound too hard, so I went ahead and ordered Presta tubes along with these Mavic reducers.

Now that I have all parts in front of me, things are not as foolproof as I thought they would be. For one, the reducers are not symmetrical and can be inserted into the rim from either side. However, neither side feels like the clear choice. Rather, relying on the fixing nut of the valve alone seems not to be bad. Let me illustrate.

Hole reducer from the outside:

From the outside the reducer fits snugly, but on the inside it creates a bulge that the tube needs to wrap around.

From the inside, the hole reducer doesn't really fit, however. I might not be pressing it in hard enough, but in this way the valve does not get through.

Finally, I could just forgo the hole reducer. The valve comes with a nut that fits the drilled hole snugly. Is this sufficient to prevent the tube hernia mentioned in Can I use a Presta tube in a Schrader rim? ?

What's my best option here? Do I have to get another set of grommets or should I just stick to Schrader valves in this rim even though the choices are few?


texts:
I have scoured the internet until I can't take it anymore. I just can't find out what make and model bike I have. I got the bike second hand and it had been repainted and had no decals or badges on it. I have put security tagging stickers on it and want to register it but need to know the make and model. The guy I got it from said he had for a few years and could not remember anything about it. Strange I know but after checking the frame number on-line I am pretty sure it's not stolen.

This is it.


texts: When Mark Cavendish says he's sprints at 1500 watts how long is that for?

texts:
In an interview with Cycle Sport, Cavendish said he puts out over 1500 watts of power.

  “You’d be surprised at my watts,” Cavendish says.

  “Most people who say that their maximum is 1,600 watts won’t put out
  1,600. My maximum is 1,580, and that is a lot. Not many guys will do
  more than a hundred more than that. But no one will ever get close to
  that in a race after 200 kilometres,” he continues.

  “I put out 1,490 today in training, on bad form, but I won’t put that
  out in a race. It’s not watts, and it’s not just my frontal area in a
  sprint. It’s everything beforehand. How I ride in the peloton. My
  pedalling action. How I sit. I save so much energy for the finish.”

Is it 5 second power or 30 second power?


texts: What is the typical angle between the derailleur post (seat tube) and top of chain?

texts: I'm building a (non-standard) bike and that means mounting a front derailleur in relationship to the incoming chain line (rather than selecting a seat-post angle visavis chainstay angle, etc.) So I'm wondering about the typical angle between the chain (on of the crank) and the derailleur mounting post (usually a seat tube). I've measured several bikes here (also non-standard, some standard) with my digital angle finder, chain in the middle of a triple ringset, and I get values from 68 degrees to 75 degrees. All shift fine. I'm wondering if there's a best practice reference here. Most of the seat-post angle stuff I see is in relationship to the chainstays, not the chain.


texts: Are BMX threaded headsets and other threaded headsets interchangeable?

texts:
I want to buy a threaded headset for an old road frame that takes 1 inch threaded steerer tube / headsets.  I see headsets for sale online that are labeled as "1 inch threaded BMX headset".  Is there any compatibility issue with trying to install it on a road bike?  What about non-BMX-labeled headsets being installed on BMX frames?

I figure I can get a headset a little bit cheaper if I could use one that is labeled as "BMX".


texts: 9 Speed Cassette does not go all the way in on the free-hub body

texts:
Wheel: Shimano WH-R500
Cassette: Shimano CS-HG400-9 9 Speed

I can put the cassette on the free-hub body but the chain will stuck on the highest gear. The cassette seems to not go all the way in on the free-hub body, see the gap between the spokes and cassette.

What did I wrong?


texts:
I just purchased a kid trailer to convert as a utility trailer.  I paid $75 for it used.  I could not find a cargo trailer for under $200 plus shipping (probably large).  The trailer is also rated up to 100 pounds (which is actually more than the cargo trailer 75 pounds).

I was wonder if anyone had converted a kid trailer to a cargo trailer before and what the best way to do it is.

The frame is:

2 Feet Wide
30 Inches Long

Here are some pictures:

(Note: my trailer does not have the bar or wheel shown in the picture).

Update:  I have removed the fabric from the trailer to get a better look at the frame.  The fabric is still in tact so it would be possible to put it back on the trailer.


texts: What is the brand/model of my bike frame?

texts: Does anyone know what brand/model is bike from photos or serial number?


texts:
I have a repair question. I am experiencing some slipping when I pedal, once-per rotation, however, it is not the normal chain/gear skipping that I have read about most of the time. The bike is an old steel frame Bianci, with 18 gears.

The slip is subtle, less than one chain link for sure, accompanied by no audible noise or jarring.  I can only "feel" it through my feet in the pedal.  Also, it does NOT have to do with how hard I am pedaling, if I pedal slowly while rolling so that its freewheeling, I can still feel the slip, which feels like a different "texture" while pedaling. I hope that makes sense, I cannot think of a better way to describe it. It seems to not happen all the time (about 80%), but I have not been able to correlate when it happens to a specific gear combination for example.

I tightened all the bolts on my chainring and in the rear derailleur, but that did not fix it. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Thanks for the help!


texts: Lots of broken spokes on one bike, with different wheels

texts:
I have a commuting bike I've had for a few years, and as long as I've had it it's frequently broken spokes on the front wheel. Eventually I got sick of replacing them, put it down to a bad wheel, and replaced it with another wheel I had lying around. This second wheel is a decent Mavic touring rim on a Shimano Deore hub, and it's done a couple of years of trouble free service on a previous bike.
Anyway, within a couple of months I got my first broken spoke and now it's the same pattern as before. Each time I replace I true the wheel up carefully and then check it again after a couple of days.

Over the last 20 odd years on several bikes I remember very few broken spokes- once on a loaded tourer, and maybe one or two MTBing.

So my question is this: Is there anything about a particular bike that might cause a lot of broken spokes- maybe forks slightly out of true or something?
It's a single speed with a reasonably high gear (45x16) and I am frequently out of the saddle but I can't think this would be any more or an issue than climbing hills on my road bike.

UPDATE

So a month or so ago I broke 3 spokes in 3 rides, and ran out of patience. After letting the bike sit in a corner for a bit I found a cheap replacement fork and swapped it over. A couple of weeks later and everything is good, so at the moment it looks like that was the problem- early days yet though I suppose, as it took a while for the original setup to start popping spokes and now the wheel might have a few dodgy ones in it.

Thanks for all the suggestions!


texts: In shared bicycle/pedestrian facilities next to a road, do I obey the pedestrian or the vehicle traffic control devices?

texts:
My commute takes me on a bike path that runs parallel to a road (with a sidewalk in between). When crossing other roads, the sidewalk and bike path merge, and there is one curb-cut and cross walk with a pedestrian signal. Unless you actually press the button to cross, there will be a green light on the parallel road but a "don't walk" signal for the crosswalk. Should I go anyhow? Should I come to a full stop before doing so, or simply slow down to pedestrian speed and check carefully for turning cars before doing so? Or should I press the button and wait for the pedestrian light?

I'm trying to figure out how "same road, same rules" actually works in practice; the problem is, there are no specific rules for bicycles on bike paths which share crossings with pedestrian crossings, and of course you can't apply the same rules as for cars since cars can't use bike paths.

To clarify, since there seems to be some confusion about the setup of the intersection, there will sometimes be a green light on the road parallel to the bike path, with a "Don't Walk" sign for the crosswalk, and there will sometimes be a green light on the road parallel to the bike path, with a "Walk" sign for the crosswalk (possibly based on whether someone has pushed the button, or possibly based on the timing, I'm not sure). That is, there are times when there's a green light on the parallel road, and cars may turn, but pedestrians (and presumably bikes) are encouraged to cross, and some times when there is a green light on the parallel road, cars may turn, but pedestrians are encouraged not to cross.


texts: Brompton: where to find the higher supply of second-hand bikes in UK, or anywhere in Europe?

texts:
We are 2 french hitchhikers looking for 2 second-hands brompton folding bike (M6R, black).

We are ready to hitchhike to get them anywhere in UK, Belgium, NL or Germany for a "reasonable" price. Logically the UK should be the best place.

We are looking for specific shops name that would have for sure some stock when we will arrive because it will be quite a challenge just to get there (hitch-hiking), and for the same reason nearly impossible to run after private offers (without taking into account the risk of concealment).

Have you seen more than 4 of them in a single spot, in which country, which city? Any advice will be warmly welcomed!

ps: we chose this brand because the size matter a lot for us. We just could not find anything else we could carry on our hitch-hiking trips.


texts: What's that frame ? I can't find anything about it anywhere

texts: I've got no idea what frame that is, or when it's been made. If anybody knows anything about it please let me know


texts: Just tried fixing up a 2007 Land Rover Kaikas MTB, that cost £400 (about $530) when it was new. The front wheel makes an intermittent buzzing sound, that usually lasts around 2 - 5 seconds, and might not be heard for up to a few minutes - or sometimes soon after. This occurs at any time on flat terrain, so it's not got anything to do with going over bumps. Though I did notice when coming downhill fast on the road, I could feel vibration through the wheel. Because it's so irregular, I'm inclined to not think it's the bearing adjustment (I've tried a loose-ish and tight quick release to quickly see if changes in the bearings made much difference, I don't think it did). The wheel spins nice and freely without play in the bearings. Any ideas?


texts:
I am about 200lbs 5'6 woman, 47yrs. Attached a screenshot of my last bike ride. It was mostly flat road, 2 lane country/ city bike paths (included was a 30 min layover where I grabbed a Snickers because I could feel I needed (energy?).  I like to ride but this was my longest bike ride ever attempted and included a 5km detour (where I took a wrong turn and became lost). That's the background.

I like to ride my bike I have now is a Specialized (Hard Rock) 19yrs old where last year I switched the mtn bike tires out for street just to make the bike lighter. I love riding long distances and hate going to the gym. I am a stay at home mom so the only other exercise I get is from the TV to the Kitchen and back. My intention is to start riding regularly.  I see these people out on my bike rides and they are riding Canondales etc. and are whizzing past me.  I can't help thinking maybe if I had a better / lighter bike, I could get around more easier. Surely technology has changed in 19 yrs? My husband says he won't shell out the money for a racing bike because he thinks it's overkill however I take this as he doesn't think I'm serious. My intention is to get fit and I am anal about comparing my speed records against myself ie.. I intend to make my laps in shorter time.

I want a good bike not a cheap bike one that will last me a long time that I can take on long rides. I should add the area I am in now is Scandinavia (Denmark) and no there are no bike lanes where I'm riding they are two lane roads. Looking to spend between $500 area.


texts:
I have a newish bike I bought second hand.  To the best of my knowledge, the headset has not been dismantled as it all looks original.  It's a threaded headset and a 1" fork steerer tube.  It looks awfully like this Ritchey headset apart from the Ritchey logos - but I'm pretty sure it came out of the same factory. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ritchey-logic-threaded-headset/rp-prod39820

It has never quite sat right - and pressing on the handlebars always made a slight squeaky sound.  I thought I'd have a go at dismantling it using the right 32mm wrench on the race.  The locknut came out no problem - I used the wrench to loosen it and then it came out just with my hand, so I know the steerer thread was fine.  But then I tried to take the race out, and man it was hard, I had to use the wrench with full force.  I managed to get it about 1/8" from the top before I stripped the nut on it.  And at that point, it looks like it's been cross threaded as the race doesn't quite sit parallel to the tube end.

So the question is how could this have arisen?  Is it possible the factory assembled a cross threaded race and just forced it all the way down to a point where it sorta passed quality control?  Or is something more sinister at play here and do I have an even bigger problem?  And as for any tips on how to get the race out?  I'm thinking of sawing through the nut itself but not sure if this will work.  Any ideas very welcome.

Thanks in advance.


texts: How do I keep my pants/trousers from getting caught in the gears?

texts:
I have the unfortunate habit of always getting my jeans stuck in my gears and end up with a nice rip on the seams.

I've used those velcro braces to keep the bottom of my pants leg close to my body but I guess I pedal too close to the gears as those get caught in the gears too.


texts: Creak in bottom bracket, resistance while pedalling backwards

texts:
My one year old Breezer Beltway 8+ (Gates carbon drive, eccentric bottom bracket) is starting to cause problems. Sometimes when pedaling forward, usually, but not always with high pressure, I hear creaking from the the area of the bottom bracket. What’s more, when this happens, and I then start to pedal backwards, it not only creaks, but I feel resistance.

When I remove the belt, and turn the cranks on their own, the bottom bracket does not rotate freely, in either way.

What do these symptoms indicate?


texts: Problems changing tubed flat on tubeless compatible rims

texts: I love my new gravel bike (Jamis Renegade Expat) (I do club rides and touring), but its tubeless compatible rims (WTB UST Tubeless) make it impossible for me to change a flat roadside by myself, which I can easily do on my conventionally rimmed other bike. I don't have the finger strength to break the seal, but even once that's done, it's easy to trap an edge of tube under the bead (even pumping it up a bit to get it out of the way). IME it takes at least 2 people (usually my husband and me), 3 tire levers and a half hour to change a flat on my TCS rim. So I'll probably change to tubeless since I've lost the upside to tubed tires: easier roadside repair. Yet everyone says tubeless compatible rims can be used tubed easily. Is anyone else having this problem?


texts: I've got a '70s road bike with shift cables which work quite well and so I see no immediate reason to replace them, but the cable ends were not crimped with end caps and so they've frayed out to ridiculous levels. However, I can't just cut off the frayed end and re-crimp it because then my cables would be too short; Is there any way for me to "save" these cables and avoid having to re-cable the bike? Is there no way to "de-fray" the ends even if it doesn't leave them in "pre-frayed" condition?


texts:
Noticed that my rear wheel is pretty un-true and is hitting the brake pad / wont spin freely.

Decided that I would try to fix it myself before opting to pay 20 bucks.

There is one spoke that is completely loose. The problem is that one i turn the spoke it does not tighten, nor does it feel like its being screwed into anything.
(my spoke is straight all the way - i have this wheel)

Questions:
1. Can I fix this, or do I need a new spoke / bike mechanic
2. Does riding like this make things worse (aside for greater wear on my brake pads)


texts: Freewheel to cassette Conversion 2016 Windsor Wellington 2.0

texts:
I am a fit but heavy rider. I am looking to change out my stock wheel set on my Windsor Wellington 2.0 (Bikes Direct.com) to a Veulta HD 36 700c spoke wheelset. I'm just wondering and hoping my Shimano Tourney 3x7 drivetrain will accommodate a 7 speed cassette on the Vuleta Wheelset. Does a spacer avoid the need to make any modification to the drive train? Do I need a different chain?
Thank so much for the advice!


texts: How hard is this climb and how long should i be taking?

texts:
This was my first attempt at this route on my several year old Avanti Giro 1.0. Ive just started riding again after quite a few years and am h

https://www.mapmyrun.com/workout/3796895674


texts: Can Shimano 600 front derailleur handle 3 chain wheels?

texts: I have a 48-38-28 chainwheel and I wonder if Shimano 600EX Arabesque has enough leeway to accommodate it. If you know another derailleur from the same era that could do it that would be also useful to me.


texts: Fixed (inside) front disk brake adjustment

texts:
I got a new bike for Christmas (12-25-12) and it is a VICTORY VEGASJACKPOT w/medium-travel front fork and full suspension. The front disc brake rubs against the inside pad (the one on the fork side of the rotor) and I have no idea how to adjust it.
Thank you!
P.S. This bike is totally fine otherwise, with a nice low price too!!


texts:
So, I've had the chain slip under the biggest sprocket a couple of times, and the spokes got chewed up by it to the point that two of them have broken recently. So, I decided to replace all the affected spokes, and am now left with six chewed-up spokes that didn't actually break (although one of them sounded pretty suspicious when I rode it home after the second breakage).

Here's what the spokes look like:

The damage seems to vary anywhere from scratched paint-job up to the two spokes that actually broke.

Anyway, there were supply chain and delivery issues that ended up with me waiting two full weeks for the spokes to arrive, so I'm wondering: are any of these spokes in good enough condition to use as a temporary replacement while I wait for the replacement?


texts:
Can someone recommend a helmet that in the price range of 40-100$ that can be bought in the united states on amazon that has the following features:

removable pads so that they can be washed
bonus points if you can buy new pads too
somehow reduces sweating. More holes?

I have an old bell that i dont remember buying. I bought it before i started biking daily, and now it is falling apart.

I would like to buy a "nicer" helmet now that i actually use it, but im not sure which ones are "good"


texts:
After shearing the head off a screw still in my bike I've decided to get proper anti-seize. I have an aluminum frame  and stainless steel screws. I've heard that zinc based anti-seize is better for aluminum-steel connections. I've also heard though that the additives in the compound only really make a difference at high temperatures which are not reached on a bike.

Aluminum based anti-seize is often 4-5 times cheaper than zinc based anti-seize and much more common. Is there really any performance difference between the two in this case? Alternatively, would a "marine-grade" anti-seize without metal additives be better than either of these cases?


texts: Good goggles over glasses for a small head?

texts: I have a pair of prescription sunglasses that partially wrap around my face, but when I ride (mountain biking and commuting), dust and debris still end up in my eyes, and after twenty miles, my eyes are watering. I am looking to get a pair of goggles that can fit over my glasses, but I don't want to order a pair that won't fit my head (I'm 5'3"), and I have yet to find a goggle review that mentions a small size. I have a cross-country helmet, so they'd be sitting directly on my face. Are there any recommendations? I am looking to get a pair for under fifty dollars.


texts: Should I replace both wheels/rims if I convert the front to a dynamo hub?

texts:
The title mostly says it all. Is there a reason to or a reason not to replace the back wheel or rim if I replace the front wheel to get a dynamo hub?

The only reason would be aesthetics, to keep the wheels the same, but that doesn't sound like a good enough reason for me.

My bike is a hybrid Specialized that is maybe 3 years old, but with only 100 or so miles on it. I have been commuting to work and looking into getting dynamo powered lights.


texts: My rear derailleur won't shift after up after 3rd cog

texts:
I just got a MTB bike thats been sitting in a garage for a couple of months.

I tried the bike and found out that the rear derailleur(Shimano) wont shift after the 3rd cog . It shifts up to the 3rd cog just fine but after that the shifter wont click and i cant get it to move any low.

Tried playing around with the limit screws and the barrel adjuster but no luck.just want to know what might be causing the problem and solutions.

Thanks


texts: Tips for packing electrical cables near Giant Quick-E bottom bracket

texts:
I've been having major trouble getting all the cables back in after removing the bottom bracket electric motor from my Giant Quick-E.

It's a rat's nest down there. There are cables coming from the seat-tube, cables coming from the downtube and cables coming from the Yamaha electrical motor, combined with many connectors.

I physically don't have the space to tuck the cables away when reinstalling the electric motor.

Does anyone have any tips?

In the image, both red circles have to align. Perspective might be a little confusing, it is taken facing the bottom of the bottom bracket, with the drive motor pivoted out of the way on a single bolt, held in place by a strap.

Regarding the tie wraps in the picture, the guys who assembled the bike at the Giant assembly line clearly also had issues getting the cables all in there, because they broke two connectors closing it up. Yes I could replace them, but the copper is intact.


texts: Gears on left are inverse to gears on right?

texts:
I have a target bike, so I already know some things may be off from real bikes. And I'm aware I should get a real bike if I wanna do just about anything.

On the left side of my gears (the ones that "fine tune" what gear you're in) the bottom has an L at the bottom and an H on the top. On the right side gears, I have a 7 at the bottom and a 1 at the top.

Logically, it would mean my left side goes up in gear the more I twist it towards high, and my right side does the opposite, and goes towards lower gears when I twist in the same direction.

Is this correct? The manual doesn't say anything, and I honestly don't feel a difference when I do this, so I'm unsure if it's the opposite or if it's all in my head.

Sorry if I am unclear.


texts: I have mistreated my bike and now am regretting it. The front forks are completely stuck. I took the end cap off the forks there's a bolt there but it's like 12 inches deep. Where the heck can I buy a 12inch hex key? because I've not been able to get anything long enough I don't even know what size hex key. It's not possible to take it apart from the bottom am sure because it just tapers off then attaches to the wheel.


texts: Grip shifters not opening on a Mongoose Terrex (trying to remove the shifting cable)

texts:
I'm trying replace the shifting cable on my mountain bike. The bike has grip shifts. I loosened the hex screw on the grip shift and was able to slide the grip part off the shift housing but it doesn't expose the shifting cable. Then I was able to remove a piece of the housing which exposed the cable but am still not able to reach the end of the cable to remove it.
If I put any more force, I'm just gonna break it. There's something I'm missing. It can't be that tight and there aren't any holes left to tinker with, lol.
Any help or ideas to access the cable would be appreciated.


texts: Adjusting derailleur with bike upside down, is it ok?

texts:
I need to adjust the derailleur on my bike, I don't have a bike stand.  I have three options for pedaling while adjusting the the derailleur.

Turn the bike upside down, balancing on the handlebars and seat.
Tip it up on the kick stand
Lay it completely on its side (if no kickstand)

Upside down is easiest, but it seems like that might not be the best choice.  Is it ok to adjust the derailleur when the bike is upside down?  Is one method clearly better then the others?


texts: Seat Stay Replacement - Bridgestone MB-3

texts:
I am working to restore my first mountain bike frame, a "vintage" 1993 Bridgestone MB-3. Early on, I swedged the left seat stay so that it buckled a bit & rotated about 15 degrees inward. I have sent it to a welder and am trying to source a replacement seat stay. Any suggestions?

Generic photo of the bike type added by Mσᶎ:


texts: Upgrading the brakes on a Giant Anyroad 2 2015

texts: I am looking to buy some used Giant Anyroad 2 2015. The groupset is already upgraded to Shimano 105 2x11, with cassette 11-34t. Crankset are Tiagra. Everything look fine, except the brake, which still using SRAM Avid BB5. Based on some review, SRAM Avid BB5 is having bad review. So I think, i need to upgrade the brake at least to SRAM Avid BB7. But I'm not sure because the Avid BB5 are using 140mm rotor, can I use SRAM Avid BB7 using these rotor, or I should upgrade to 160mm rotor and do I need adapter to upgrade the brake. Need some input.


texts: I have never seen a GPS system available for when you buy your bike I'm wondering if the technologies out there for the bikes I know the technology is small and if its not available how do I get a patent


texts:
What type of bottom bracket do I have?

I'm looking for a video on how to service my bottom bracket but I'm not sure what type I have.

I have a Cannondale CAAD8 from 2011 with a Shimano 105 groupset.

Here are some photos:


texts:
I was cleaning my chainring, chain and cassette with vinegar,
to remove unwanted grease but suddenly after a few minutes it suddenly turned slightly orange. It spread all over my rear gears.
I got worried so I put light oil; it worked but still has some light rust on it.
What should I do?


texts: Need help identifying an old bicycle, unusual frame

texts:
I was recently given a bicycle by an Italian restaurant, the owner had brought it back from Italy years ago and used it as wall decor. I have since replaced the chain, brake etc. However I am very curious as to how old it is, what it is, or any information. The decal says "Freyus" but when I search for it I can't find anything remotely similar to this bike. Does anyone know anything about it? I have done a web search and index search of the bike frames serial number and it has turned up nothing.

http://s23.postimg.org/l922ca617/image.jpg


texts: Cito bicycle history / old steel bike identification

texts: I have a Cito Master Star bicycle but cannot find any info about it online. I think it is a 1969 model as it has a 69 stamped onto it. It also has aero coronado cranks but has some belt drive system I'm not familiar with. Any info on it would be appreciated. Thank you for all your replies so far.


texts:
I hear varying things about chain compatibility.

I have multiple cheap bikes with 6-speed freewheels. These have 5.5mm sprocket spacing, whereas 7 speed freewheels had 5.0mm spacing. Later cassettes 9, 10, and 11 speeds have even narrower spacing.

That's all well and good, but for my 6-speed bikes, should I be seeking out a 6-speed chain in order to work best with them? It seems to me that the wider chain might be better for some reason such as grabbing onto the sprockets easier or being less likely to fall between them.

It's getting harder to find 6-speed chains. Many chains claim they are compatible with 6, 7, 8 speeds or even 6-11 speeds.

I'm not asking about what is strictly compatible or what will work, because that is listed on the package. I'm asking more about what works BEST. What compromises are involved in running "higher speed" chains on wider-spaced freewheels/cassettes? Is there benefit to avoiding the narrower chains on older bikes?

EDIT: The wikipedia link provided below had the key information that "Shimano used/uses the same chain for 6,7,8 speed designs". So, if the package says 6/7/8 speed compatible, there is no compromise at all, because from the beginning (at least within Shimano), the chains were exactly the same for those designs anyway. So, chains which advertise "6/7/8" speed, should probably be believed.

This does not explain to me why some chains are marketed solely as "8 speed", however.

Also, Sheldon Brown's website says "using a chain one size narrower than standard rarely presents any problem. Thus, you can use a "9-speed" chain with a 7-speed or 8-speed system, or a "10-speed" chain with a 9-speed system. This is not the ideal approach..."

Now I know there is no need, or even benefit, to trying to find "6 speed" chains, because they are not any different than 7 or 8 speed chains. However, chains which claim to be compatible between between 6/7/8 family and other speeds such as 9, 10 or 11 are not telling the whole truth.


texts: How do I tell what needs repaired/replaced/cared for?

texts:
What items on an older bike should I check for wear and damage and how do I differentiate wear/damage that can safely be ignored and wear/damage that I should repair/replace?

At the start of this summer I started riding my dad's old bike (a 2008 Specialized Hardrock Sport) to/from my summer internship, and I expect to continue riding it regularly when I go back to classes in the fall. Until this summer it was only ridden occasionally, and spent most of the time in the garage. As far as I'm aware none of the original components have been replaced. Everything seems to run fine at the moment (after I re-tuned the derailleurs and tightened the brake cables), but many components have very visible wear-and-tear, and I don't always know how to differentiate cosmetic damage from other damage.

Ideally I'm looking for a list of common components to fail or need replaced, and how to tell if they are about to fail/are ready to be replaced.

I currently have to store the bike outside, if that changes what I should be looking for.


texts:
I was given a bicycle that's in need of some repairs. I replaced the worn brake pads, but the brake calipers don't really return to a position where they clear the wheels. I started looking for replacement springs or just to replace the entire unit. What do I need? I see what I assume are current alivio BR-T 4000 on ebay for $25, will these fit?

Pictures: https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aiod9EP7JYA-gvBgysNosLSNFnnLlg

I think this bike was originally purchased in 2005 or 2006

I'll also need a new chain and sprockets and derailleur. I haven't tried the gear shifts much, but I suspect they are due for replacement also.


texts: Does tire pressure matter when the bicycle is in the trainer?

texts: I keep my bicycle on a trainer in a 'cool' room during the winter months.   The tires don't seem to maintain pressure after days of non use.   Does this matter, and should I be checking/filling the tires often?   What pressure would be recommended?


texts:
Accepted wisdom is that cross chaining is bad and that we should never do it. However, most of us set up our bikes so that we can run any gear combination. Invariably, I'll occasionally look down and see that I'm running my big chainring against one of the bigger cogs.

Is there any measurement of how much faster equipment will wear out from cross chaining, or energy loss or whatever?


texts: Spending up to 200 dollars now on a bike for slow rides on gravel roads

texts:
I'm a dad with a kid just getting old enough that we can bike around together. I've been using a 10 dollar bike I got from a garage sale but it's just rusty junk at this point. Our other kid is still going to need to be in a back mounted seat for another year or two so I don't want to bother investing in a nice bike for me that is going to get busted up just from the mounting of the child seat.

So if I only have 200 dollars at most to put into a bike, what type of bike is least bad when it's cheap? I've picked up that the "full suspension" bikes are just horrible on the cheap bikes (and that's all that my Walmart seems to have), but what about the full body solid road type bikes? I'll be spending 95% of the time just piddling around on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails. Nothing on mountains but also no need for real speed.


texts: Which electrolyte is most important for century rides?

texts:
Besides keeping up with hydration and carbs, which electrolyte is most important in maintaining muscle endurance for longer rides like centuries?
I'm guessing it would be potassium or calcium.
Trying to plan ahead on which snacks or drinks to use for my next ride, RSVP, Seattle to Vancouver.


texts: Shimano GRX 2x11 brake rotor compatibility

texts:
I am looking for possible disc rotors for the GRX 2x11 that comes with the GRX BR-RX810 brakes but can just find one recommendation which are the Shimano Ultegra SM-RT800 Center Lock Ice-Tech, that I find very ugly.
Even on the Shimano page I cannot find anything else. Are there any other rotors that are compatible with the GRX BR-RX810 and GRX2x11?


texts: Metal seat post with carbon fiber frame?

texts:
Is using a metal seat post on a carbon fiber frame advisable or not? I want to use a seat post mounted rack on my road bike (no regular rack mount points are on this bike), but I have been told that is not a good idea for carbon seat posts. So I thought I get a whole new metal post & saddle and swap the posts as necessary for commuting versus recreation.

I ask primarily because the famous Sheldon Brown once wrote on his site "Using a carbon-fiber seatpost in a metal frame, or vice versa, invites problems." but didn't explain why.

Any thoughts?


texts:
This is a follow-up to the question I need to replace a cassette for CS-HG500-10 but want to go XT
Yesterday I replaced the cassette, as well as the chain and the jockey wheels and went for a ride. The problem has not disappeared.
I'm thinking that the chainring is completely worn out, but I'm also starting to think about the tension of the chain.
I'm using the biggest chainring almost all of the time, and was in the bad habit of using it with the biggest sprocket of the cassette, cross-chaining the entire range. I've used this chainring about 7500 km (maybe 3/4 of that distance).
When I use the middle chainring (it has 3 chainrings at the pedal), the problem is pretty much gone.
Here is a YouTube video which I made today, where I'm fully breaking and then putting pressure on the pedal, you can see the chain jump.

Here are some photos of the chainring:

I have already ordered a replacement, but I wonder if chain tension could also be a factor with this.
Could this problem be removed by increasing the chain tension, or does it look like I generally should increase it after replacing the chainring? How could I do that?

Update: The new chainring arrived today. I took pictures of both and compared them. Here is the result:


texts: I just got a new supercycle bike that came with everything, including the saddle rail clamp (the part connecting the double-railed saddle to the shaft beneath). After riding about 20km on it, the bike seat began tilting backwards randomly, without me adjusting it. I took it apart and found that the ridges on the insides of the saddle clamp had been ground down, and that the whole thing was useless. So far, I've only found one rail clamp that fits with both my saddle and the shaft underneath, and that's the exact same clamp as the first one. Is there another better clamp that won't wear down as fast as my initial one did?


texts:
I'll be moving in the near future from a wide open rural area with open, expansive country roads to a more suburban area with traffic issues but a few offroad trails available for riding. My question -- and probably a silly one -- is: is it at all recommended to outfit a separate set of wheels with CX tires for my road frame for trail riding at a fraction of the cost of a new CX bike or am I putting my road frame at unnecessary risk trying to save some money?

I'm not imagining I'm going to be getting into legit mountain biking (just yet) and only ride for personal fitness and the enjoyment of it.  I've seen threads here asking the opposite (CX for Road), but nothing this way.

Thanks!


texts: When is a child ready to switch from scooting to pedaling?

texts:
Last year, we bought a child-sized bike and removed the pedals. My three-year-old has been using it as a push bike (a.k.a. balance bike, run bike, or scooter) and learning how to balance. The plan is that once she's ready, I'll put the pedals back on, but I won't be adding training wheels. However, I don't want to put the pedals back on before she's really ready because it would be a pain to take them back off again.

She's now at the point where she can coast for about five seconds at a time, but she doesn't ride in a particularly straight line. She often asks for pedals, though I'm sure she doesn't appreciate the effort that will be required.

How do I know when she's ready and it's time to put the pedals back on the bike? What specific goal can I give her to work towards (i.e., "When you can do XYZ, then you can have pedals")?

Related question: What is the best method to teach a young child to ride?


texts: How to chose the correct hydraulic disc brake rotor size for touring bike?

texts:
I have ordered a Shimano Deore M6000 disc brake set. What rotor size should I chose for my touring bike?
I am 85 kg and my bike is approximately 15-20 kg.


texts:
I want to get this suspension

SR Suntour XCR-RL 26inch Suspension Fork. Black, 120mm Travel, Remote Lockout, Disc Brake Only

But I don't know will it for my bike and also what's the difference between hydraulic and Coil suspension.

My bike is the
Falcon Renegade Mens Mountain Bike 19


texts: Front derailleur cable hits path of pedal

texts:
The front derailleur cable is on the path of the pedal.

Derailleur cable is in the path of the pedal (right of picture):

The amateurish solution of pulling it back with a loop requires a solution itself to stop the holding loop from sliding.

Hackish, unworkable "solution":

If I google "front derailleur cable hits pedal" I get what I perceive as a low-quality solution (shorten the cable and crimp again; I like slacks).

What would you do? Unwind the bolt a little and turn the cable either up (towards the sky) or down (towards the ground) and tighten again, trying to hit the exact spot and eliminate the need for subsequent tuning? Is that a good way to go? If yes, sky means less surface to hold the cable; ground means excessive twist on a cable with a blueish plasticky coating (for rust prevention?) that looks like it doesn't like excessive bending.

Update, following Swifty's answer:

Here is my candidate process:

Use Sharpie to mark where the cable is set.
Use Sharpie to mark the sky-side setting of the bolt (since I don't have a torque wrench, anywhere from the 11am to 1pm settings will do for a reasonable rewind torque).
Loosen the cable. The cable will be considerably less taut (thanks, Argenti Apparatus) with the chain on the smaller chainring. (Is this enough to ensure the cable will not gain too much the moment I unwind the bolt? I don't see a barrel adjuster; should there be one under the rubber surrounding the shifters?)
Unwind, turn cable and wind back.

Could you comment?


texts:
I recently purchased this Haro group 1 ci online, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction as to what these last 4 mean and the KH5J is in other serial numbers I've seen but well I'm just idk got myself completely confused lol.
Sn# CIKH5J7798


texts: Is it practical to wear motorcycle half helmet for road cycling?

texts:
I am considering buying a motorcycle half helmet for cycling. I ride road bike for leisure. I would ride alongside with traffics quite often.

First of all, I am looking for more protection. I am not sure can ordinary bicycle helmet provides enough protection for lateral shock if I hit the ground.

Secondly, I really like the retractable shield. I wish to protect my eyes from UV and dirt. However, I cannot wear googles as I am shortsighted. Bicycle helmets with shield are even more expensive then such motorcycle helmet.

Is it practical to wear such helmet for road cycling? For example, are there heat, comfortability or sight blocking issues?


texts:
Overnight someone stamped on my wheels, hard enough also to bend a pretty substantial rear rack. (Not a great welcome to Copenhagen, my lights were stolen last week...) Neither wheel would turn more than 1/4 turn before jamming against the mudguards.

I laid each on a parking bay's "L" corner, and gently stood on them, which has made them true enough that they spin freely in the frame.

The disc brake pads are fine, and the frame and dérailleur look undamaged.

Is it realistic to true wheels after damage like this? I'm guessing it's beyond the skill of someone new to wheel repair.


texts: 8 speed drivetrain stronger than 9 speed?

texts: I see a lot of people recommending 8 speed drivetrain over 9 speed for a touring bike because they are supposed to be stronger (e.g. in the buyers guide of the Adventure cyclist magazine, issue april 2011, page 16) . Is that still true or did technology catch up?


texts:
I was trying to solder my bike cables because those crimp on's they fall off then the cable just unwind itself. After the painfull process I managed to use the cutting end instead of the crimping end to install the crimp.

A 20 quid park tool cable cutter isn't any good if u don't use it correctly lol

So is there an optimum length you leave sticking out of the pinch bolt?


texts: Is it possible to upload ZWO file on Android?

texts: Zwift Workout file (*.zwo) can be manually added to custom workouts on PC, Mac and iOS. It is as simple as copying file to a specific folder (e.g. /Documents/Zwift/Workouts). But where is the location for Android Zwift app it picks up local custom workouts from?


texts:
A total newb, I busted the star fangled nut on my new road bike, while trying to tighten the headset. Generally speaking, how does a person know what size star-nut to use?

In my case, a quarter fits snugly inside the steerer tube while resting on the old star-nut, which indicates to me that I need the 1" star nut. Is that correct?

Thanks!


texts: ideal dérailleur height for a Deore on non-round/oval Cranksets (e.g. a Biopace)?

texts:
Reading on every site about front dérailleur adjustment, the distance from the bottom of the outer dérailleur plate to the bigger crank cog should be "one penny".

Mine is around 1cm! it does shift OK. not perfectly, i have to spin it very slowly and constant for the chain to move. but works. never dropped the chain or jammed.

The front dérailleur is a Shimano FD-MT60-AL, Deore (if you look at the pic here, it's showing a much closer distance, but it's also showing a rusty chain... so I will not mimic it right now :)

The crank is a biopace

Here's a pic of my bike. Since the crank is not round, i've set it up on the "closest" point to the derailleur

Here's another pic.

Another angle. There's no height adjustment, and there's no mark on the frame suggesting it ever was at another position. Can it be some lack of lube internally or bad cable messing things up?


texts: Will slightly slimmer seatpost make a difference?

texts: I have an old Peugout bike that needs a 23.8 (to the best of my measuring abilities) seat post. I can't find such a seatpost in all the obvious shopping places, but I did find a 23.4mm one. I'm just wondering if I should give it a try, but since it's £20 I wanted to ask if anyone had experience with such fitting.


texts: Created a unique approach to a tricycle, searching if others exist

texts:
I read that wheels further apart from the center gives a more comfortable ride but I wanted something that fits through the door and on bike paths and alongside traffic.

I imagined just moving 1 wheel further apart from the center is better than none. It made a significant improvement in ride comfort and handling. If you offset too much then you get that sidecar type handling but this is just the right amount. The only downside is you have to steer more to turn left than right but you don't notice it.

The bolts bent over time but I have a better design for the next attempt.

I'm looking for information about the engineering concept I proposed with this design to find more data about it. Or ideas proposed with a similar concept. I tried every possible term in Google to find something to do with this with no luck.


texts: 30 lb Geared Bicycle vs 20 lb Single Speed, Which Is Faster for Commuting?

texts:
This is not a literal question so I'm not looking at / for specific models, but more a theoretical one. Let's assume I could choose between two bikes for commuting, one with a modern 22 speed drivetrain setup and another with a single speed. The geared bike weighs 30 lbs, and the single speed bike weighs 20 lbs. They cost around the same (not that it makes any difference in this particular scenario). My commute would be about 8 miles each way, so 16 miles round trip, in a major U.S. city with normal traffic and not too much elevation gain (say around 150-200 ft or so, also round trip). Let's assume the city has 4 seasons and I would commute every day. Let's say I weigh around 140 lbs. I've tried to outline both the pro's and con's below, but I'd like to figure out if I'm missing something.

Geared Bike

Gears may allow for a faster overall speed if there are long uphill or downhill sections, or long open flat stretches with no traffic

Single Speed Bike

There is a weight reduction vs the geared bike (in this scenario about 6%) which may result in an increase in acceleration, especially when accelerating from frequent stops in traffic or going uphill
There is a slight increase in drivetrain efficiency due to a lack of derailleurs and a "perfect" chainline

If the rider regularly encounters traffic or does not ride over any substantial hills, I believe the single speed may actually be the better choice in most urban commuting scenarios. Given all of the following information, which one do you think would be faster and why? Any real world experiences and results would be welcome as well. Please disregard any other benefits not related to speed, such as the single speed having less parts = less maintenance and more reliability, generally more quality for the same amount of money spent on a single speed, etc.

Edit: I feel like everyone is missing the point of this question, so I thought I'd clarify. I own a modern 22 speed bike, a fixed gear, a single speed, a single speed mountain bike, and a relatively light 3 speed IGH. As I mentioned before, I do not want to hear about the pro's and con's of actually using each one for commuting in terms of cost, maintenance, etc.: I know about these already having owned them. I just want to know, given my particular scenario, which one you think would be faster and the technical reasons why you came to that decision. I'm not interested in discussing anything other than implications on commuting speed for this particular question.


texts: Shifter isn't working, cable doesn't react

texts:
When I pull the shifter for my front dérailleur the cable doesn't react. Even with tension on the cable.

Now I made the cable loose. Also my barrel adjuster is disconnected, maybe the problem is related to that.


texts: How is the riding experience of a Rohloff hub different than derailleur gears?

texts:
I'm considering a Rohloff hub and am wondering what the day-to-day riding experience would be like compared to my existing derailleur setup. There are some obvious things (e.g. don't have to be moving to shift), but what I'm most interested is the less obvious things.

In other words, can someone give a more or less complete enumeration of how riding a Rohloff hub is similar and different than derailleur(s)?

I live in the boonies and so it might be difficult try one out before purchase. Understanding what may be different will help me prioritize this try-out.


texts: What are important items for a touring first-aid kit?

texts: When riding long distances, either solo or with groups of people, it is obviously necessary to carry a first-aid kit in case of a crash or other injury. What are the most important items to pack, while still considering weight or space? What items can be included in 'travel-size', and which items should be 'full-size'? What items should definitely be left at home?


texts:
I've got a 2018 Canyon Exceed (XC mountain bike) that has recently developed alarming judder in the front brake (SRAM Level T), to the point that it makes the forks "twang" backwards and forwards, depending on speed and braking effort. The headset adjustment is fine, it's just that the forks are lightweight XC model (SID) and therefore a little flexy and they really don't like the brake pulsing.

Holding a constant, light pressure on the brake lever while rotating the wheel by hand reveals that the brake grabs as each of the rotor arms pass through the calliper. Inspecting the rotor shows that the pad coverage extends a surprisingly long way down the arm:

Same thing but different lighting:

I was surprised by the inconsistency of the pad surface too, which seems to correspond to which bits of pad the long cooling slots pass over:

The bikes got a little over 700km on it, most of them quite dry. The last 50 were wetter. The rotors are the originals, but are well away from their wear limit (1.55mm) and don't vary in thickness (1.87mm all the way around). I did wonder whether the calliper spacer was on the wrong way around, leading to the pads being closer to the wheel centre than they should be, but according to the direction arrow, it's correct (from factory).

I can't explain why this has suddenly become a problem. My trail bike has similar brakes (Level TL), also still on the original rotors, has lead a much harder life (3x the mileage, more severe terrain), pad also extends down the rotor arm, but it has never shown this problem. The same light-pressure, turn the wheel by hand test shows no hint of grabbing.

Is the solution just a new set of pads? Bedded in differently? How can I avoid this problem returning?


texts:
I was adjusting rear brakes last night and this little thing snapped in half (see image [right]). The linear indent holds my brake cable in place and a 5mm bolt holds this in place. I guess I need to find a replacement but I have no idea where to start. Does anyone know what this might be called? Can I stillfind something like this?

Bike: Old Dawes Horizon (1990's maybe?)
Braking system: Centre pull cantilever.

Thanks!


texts:
I recently bought my first gravel bike (Breezer Doppler Pro), and I want to upgrade the stock bars with some flared out dirt drops. Hoods are my primary hand position, and I generally find most standard road drops to be useless. I wanted to get something with shorter reach and a shallower, flared drops to see if that helps. I've been looking at the Daija Far Bar. The naked bars look like they would be super comfortable in a lot of hand positions, but whenever I see pictures of them setup, the levers look canted so far outward that it would make for awkward feathering and shifting from the hoods position.

My question is: Is this an inevitable feature of wider flares like the Far Bar or the Salsa Woodchipper? Or is it just the way people set them up? In other words, can I setup the levers with a more nominal hood position and still be able reach them from the drops?

I'm aware that this is somewhat of a matter personal preference, but I can't seem to find a straight forward answer on any of the forums or reviews, and given the current state of things, I can't go into a shop to try different bars on for feel.


texts: Is my disc brake caliper correctly mounted on the frame?

texts:
I have been in the process of upgrading my bike a bit. A friend of mine convinced me to upgrade my brakes from my stock Shimanos to some disc brakes. After having a look around and asking question, I decided on getting some Avid BB7 disc brakes with 180mm rotors.

I did however have one concern, and that was that the mounts on the back of the bike frame might not be correct for mounting the caliper. However I was able to affix the calipers, but they seem to be in an awkward position.

The caliper and rotor however seem to be functioning together normally (I however have not yet connected the brake line to the caliper, so this is just a bit of speculation).

Is the caliper mounted correctly?

I could with a bit of wiggle redirect my brake line down the central post and along the lower section of the frame to the calipers, however from the several frames I have seen with calipers mounted, the mounts were on the up section of the frame. Does this make a difference?

** As you might notice, the images are upside down....or right side up, depending on your viewpoint (pun not intended)


texts: Alwasy getting a flat rear tire on my 14"inch folding bike

texts:
I just bought my 14" folding bike and I always getting a flat tire on the rear. It happened 4 times in a span of three days. 1st flat was with the stock inner tube, 2nd flat is with the new inner tube, 3rd same goes with 2nd. The mechanic advised me to change a bigger tire size from 1.75 to 2.25. 4th I thought it would solve the problem, rode longer than the old tire but still I got a flat tire. It's frustrating. I weigh 185lbs. Is that the reason why? But I've seen a lot of bikers who are bigger than me riding a 14 inch folding bike.
PS. They also added another rim tape.


texts: Can this bent (after crash) rigid steel fork get repaired?

texts:
I have this EBS (unknown model please help) rigid steel frame bike.

Due to a recent crash, the fork was bent backwards and a little bit to the right, at the bottom bearing in the headset:

Front View:

Left View:

Right View:

Can this fork get straightened? And if it was straightened would it be safe to use? I think it might be able to get slightly straightened because I know steel is quite flexible compared to other metals and can be bent a lot before cracking or breaking.

I had to put nonfunctional links instead of formatting as images due to lack of reputation.

EDIT There is no paint in some areas because of the brake outer cables rubbing with the frame, NOT because of the crash (it was not there since before the crash).

The front wheel DID absorb some of the shock on impact and was bent and needs straightening+truing or just replacing.

More details about the crash:
I was riding in town at 25-30 km/h, when suddenly a parked heavy motorbike comes out of where it was parked. Its rider was busy talking to someone riding with him so he didn't even see if the road was empty. I braked the hardest I could but it was too late, so I crashed into his rear wheel. Fortunately I wasn't hurt.
Summary: Crash into the rear wheel of a heavy motor bike at 25-30 km/h


texts: Can I use Edge 510 as an indoor trainer computer

texts:
I'm setting up for the winter (yes it's only October, this is Sweden).

I need to set up a speedometer for my rear wheel while I use the turbo trainer, I have a Garmin Edge 510 with cadence sensor, and wonder can I set this up to feed cadence and speed (with speed taken from the rear wheel) to the Edge head unit whilst on a stationary trainer?

How do I set the edge computer to deal with this (I assume it needs to know to take speed from the sensor and not GPS, and just trying to use it as normal failed).


texts: I read recently that fluorescent clothing was not effective at all at night.  If this is the case, how effective is it during the day, and should I stop buying tops that are fluorescent to use on my daily commute?


texts: Can I replace a quick release skewer by something that needs a wrench to open?

texts:
I have an old Motobecane with quick release skewers in both wheels (700mm wheels), that I only use for short commutes (so I don't use the quick release function if there is a flat; [also hadn't have a flat in years given the anti-puncture tires]).
I just had my front wheel stolen, while parked next to many other bikes with through axles without their front wheels secured, so now I'd like to make the front wheel exactly as hard (and as easy) and a through axle to remove (needing a wrench).
I don't want something that is harder to open (i.e., a pitlock) nor easier (Allen Key Skewer), I want something equal to the most commonly used old-school nutted axle.
Can a through bolt axle of the same width be used? (What do we search to buy such? My searching has at most given me at most Allen Key Skewers, which are still easier to open than with a wrench)
Thank you
EDIT:
So I should ask for a wheel intended for nuts of the same size (radius 700mm).
How do I know the size of the axle?


texts: Best kind of bicycle for lower back issues?

texts:
I've ridden bikes all my life.  Now nearing 50, for the past year or two I've noticed that when I ride over 20km or so, my lower back gets extremely painful - enough to make it not possible to ride.  The bike is the same one I've already had, so it's not a bike-fit issue.

Because the bike is breaking down, I need to replace it.  I'm worried about getting a bike that I won't be able to ride for anything other than short commutes because of back pain...and not finding this out until the first 20km+ ride.    A short test ride of a new bike isn't going to be enough to determine whether it will trigger pain.  Knowing that it's the lower back, what style of bike should I consider?  I currently have a mountain bike and am thinking either of a touring bike or hybrid.  I probably don't have storage space for a recumbent.

Oh, and current bike is a mountain bike.   In the past I did heaps of touring on it, with no issues.  Now I use it for commuting, and sub-20km rides.


texts: Is there a proper way to space crank arms in relation to the bottom bracket? Ive noticed most builds are generally +10mm on the right side in relation to the bottom bracket, but i feel like maybe they should be even for leg ergonomics? Is there a standard here from edge of bb to the outer edge of where the crankarm mounts to the bottom bracket?


texts: What are simplest rideable bikes over history?

texts:
I copy-catted the question from moz here because he did not ask it himself.

I try to keep my bike design as simple as possible so I need to learn from mistakes in the past.

What are the simplest rideable bikes?
Did they work and what were their limitations?

Example things simplified bikes:

air tires (no big wheelers anymore)
inner hubs (ambiguous: common belief is that it is harder to fix inner hubs, despite I have fixed them with no expertise what-so-ever, but its outside design is simple
belt-driven chains (no lubrication)

Please, tell for which kind of purpose your bike is meant. I am particularly interested in recumbent bikes, i.e. comfort bikes and no racer bikes for long journeys, but feel free to suggest anything. Keep it simple and stupid! Explain why it is simple to some earlier model. Any simple bike out there or some historical bike from which we may learn something?


texts: How to repair / create a CF seat post clamp interface?

texts:
I have a carbon Trek Madone 4.7 road frame with a nonexistent clamp interface. At the top of the seat tube, there should be a smaller-radius section of notched aluminum on which to place a clamp. That part of my frame is missing.

The top of the seat tube is much thicker than any clamp I've seen, not notched, and irregularly shaped. The interior surface has an irregular radius for at least 2cm; I assume that when the bonded aluminum clamp interface failed, it took a layer of the interior with it.

The rest of the frame is in fine shape. Is there a way I can create a new seat clamp interface?

I was considering leveling out the inner surface with Shapelock, creating a notch, and sanding down a short external section at the top of the seat tube to be sufficiently regular to fit a clamp.


texts: Can the Garmin 520 be charged while riding?

texts:
I am looking to buy the Garmin 520 for some brevets but it only makes sense to do so if I can charge the device while riding. Does anyone know if this is possible?

I know that the usb port is in a funny place on the back of the device which will make charging difficult, but I just need to know if it is possible or if it will go into standby mode during charging.

I know that some models allow for charging while riding while others do not. I want to know if this model in particular does.

Thanks!


texts:
This is a general question about front shocks in a suspension fork, which I'm just beginning to learn about.

What kind of shocks are shown in this video, and how do they work?

In particular:

1) Why are the two sides (left and right) different?  Is that because one is for damping compression, and the other is for damping rebound?

2) Why do the two sides have different diameters, i.e., what's in them?

3) Why do the two sides have a different connector at the bottom?

4) What combination of springs/air/oil is used in each side?


texts:
Should hitch mounted bike racks move or sway when traveling?

My current one (1.25", two bike trays with arms clamping on the tire) will sway and move when traveling with bikes on it.

During the weekend, I had a discussion about racks where the other person stated his didn't sway during traveling.

Update

I had a closer look at my setup last night. The swaying comes from the hinge between the rack and the receiver tube. There is a bit of play there enabling the rack to move and sway.

The rack has a feature of being able to angle it away from the car in order to get access to the hatch, or to store it closer to the tail gate when not in use.


texts:
I was lucky last winter I went the entire winter without getting a flat.  I attribute it mostly to:

sharp items on the road being hidden under snow and ice
less agressive riding resulting in no blow out flats

I am curious how other people deal with flats in the winter.  Although I always carry a spare tube and CO2 I don't think I would be able to change a tire with bulky winter gloves on.  Changing a tire gloveless is also not really an option.

How do you deal with flats in the winter?


texts: Mountain bike front derailleur won't shift up

texts:
I didn't use my bike for few months. Now the front derailleur won't shift up.
Basically, when I shift to the second gear I hear a "click" then the chain is stuck between the first and the second gear. Futhermore, I can't shift to the third gear I don't hear the "click" and the chain is still stuck between the gears.
The derailleur cage seems fine to me. The cable is not too loose.
this is my first time I try to repair my bike myselft. I don't know what else should I check.
Edit: The chain is not really between the first and the second gear. The chain is more like half on the first gear and half not touching any gear. It feels like the chain is not high enough to reach the second gear.
Edit: The derailleur should be 2mm above the outer chain gear, but mine seems to be 0.5mm above. I don't have the tools today to test it. Maybe this is the problem?
update:While pedalling if force a bit more over the second gear using the shifter on handlebar I can get on the second gear then 2 to 3 works like a charm.


texts: Help to Diagnose a Problem with Northrock XC6 Mountain Bike

texts:
I have been fixing up a Northrock XC6 bicycle.

Symptoms:

Chain clunk when trying to start moving. It feels like the chain is slipping. It only happens under load, I cannot get the same symptom by running the wheel by itself. This makes it impossible to get started. However, the same problem does not occur when at higher speeds.

Background:

I just installed a new derailleur, new chain, and new pedals. I needed a new derailluer because a similar problm happened and bent the old one and broke the chain.

What is wrong with my bike? Thanks!


texts:
I have a Sirrus Specialized road bike with flat/straight handlebars and a Carrera TDF 2014 edition. As much as I like it, I must say that I prefer the Siruss' frame. It's light and aero. I want to swap my Carreras handlebars and the STI levers onto my Siruss.

Are the STI levers on my Carreras compatible with the V-brakes on my Siruss? Are there any problems that I need to think about before I do the swap?


texts:
Friends,

Do anyone of you know on how to replace a bearing on BB7800 ?
Do I need a special tool ? or a screw driver, and hammer would be enough to push it out ?

Thanks


texts: Can wheels with XDR and hyperglide drivers be swapped on a bike without readjustment?

texts:
I have two wheels I hope to use on the same bike, which is set up with an 11 speed, Rival 1 groupset.

The wheel currently on the bike has a Hyperglide driver and a SRAM PG-1130 cassette.

The (proposed) 2nd wheel has an XDR driver, and an XG-1150 cassette.

Both are 11 speed, and nearly the same ranges: 10-42 and 11-42. Will I be able to swap wheels without readjusting the derailleur?


texts: How to protect yourself from pollution in city cycling

texts:
I live in India and have been commuting to office daily on cycle for nine months now. I have developed a permanent sore throat and my skin has also deteriorated because of pollution.

I bought a neo mask (anti pollution), but I find it hard to breathe with it on while going uphill. Please suggest how to prevent pollution from taking a toll on one's body.


texts: Chain repeatedly tries to click into place without gear change

texts:
While pedalling, every 10 seconds or so, the chain on my bike makes the sound it makes during a gear shift - it "clicks", as if it's clicking into place in the new gear. But there is no gear shift going on - it just skips periodically as I pedal.

It feels as if I briefly lose control, so I'd like to fix this before the problem gets worse. What could be causing this?


texts: converting a road bike (aluminum with carbon forks) handle bar

texts:
I am coming off of a 10 year break from cycling due to a horrible auto accident.  I have back issues and have the following questions:

Would converting or modifying my existing handlebar help? What in particular would help? Where would I go to explore these options?
Should I try out a recumbent bike? What type of places would let me do this?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!


texts: What to consider when looking for a chainguard?

texts:
Alright, the inner seam of my jeans is about done for, and I'm worried that I'll take a nasty spill the next time my pants get caught in there. Given that I don't want to wear gaiters or Lycra, I'm looking to install a chain guard on my bike (2014 Novara Safari).

What are some of the things to consider when looking for a chainguard? I know that front derailleur compatibility is a major issue. What else?


texts:
I was reading a discussion (Cycling: mashing versus spinning) in which someone commented ...

  In the big picture, winning against
  other age-groupers is pretty
  unremarkable.

... which implies that cycling performance is affected by one's age.

Now ageing might be, to quote the FAQ, "an actual problem that you face".

Assuming that ageing is in fact some kind of 'problem', can you tell me what's useful to know about it? Especially as it relates to cycling (ability, performance, expectations, and/or training)?

For example a little bit of googling found "Key found to muscle loss as we age" which suggests that one cause of muscle wasting in older people is decreased blood flow to the legs (which cycling presumably helps to counter-act somewhat).

To be a bit more specific:

I'm soon to be 50 (but please feel free to talk about other ages if you know about it and think it would interest)
I'd looking for any specifically age-related information (e.g. I think all articles will say that in general exercise is good for you at any/every age: which is the opposite of being an age-specific statement, or statements about specific ages or ageing)
I'm looking for bicycle-specific information (so perhaps not especially for statements relating to flexibility, memory and other mental abilities, impact-resilience, and/or other such ageing-related phenomena that aren't especially relevant to bicycling)
I'd prefer actionable or prescriptive information


texts: I saw this post by Ji Cheng (Lanterne Rouge) on Twitter. My question is about the apparatus he posts a picture of. It contains (his?) shoes. Simple question, what is this machine exactly doing? Is it to get rid of odors?