texts: Should I be concerned about new helmet laws?

texts:
In Australia there was recently a change to to bicycle helmet standards as outlined in AS/NZS 2063:2008.

Basically, helmets complying to the 1996 version of the standard will soon become illegal to sell in Australia.

I want to buy a helmet with the 1996 standard because it's cheaper now (due to stock clearance), but I don't know if it will be any less safe? Not that I put too much trust in these standards anyway ...

I'm very skeptical as to whether the new standard will be safer in use, because virtually no useful information is given to the public as to what the changes actually are. Furthermore, these are laws being passed by bureaucrats who seemingly have very little idea of the actual science behind these standards! To make matters even worse, they do not differentiate between helmets for different cycling uses e.g. mountain bike vs. road, and throw seemingly arbitrary numbers around.

Should I be concerned buying a helmet of an older standard or do you think this just silly bureaucracy in play?


texts: Lube substitutes for Phil Wood lubricant

texts:
I need lube for my new Schwinn Meridian Adult Tricycle that I received as a belated Christmas present. The chain/axle mechanism is making a noise. It may not have ever been lubed! Can I substitute olive oil, castor oil, or peach kernel oil until I can order Phil Wood lubricant or some other appropriate lube?

The listed oils are what I have on hand. I live in a small town where these kinds of things are often not available locally.


texts: Shifter clicks in but chain stays on the largest cog, when riding

texts:
I am able to change (click through) the shifter but the chain stays on the largest cog and does not move (This happens only when riding) but the gears shift as usual when the bike is stationary and I turn the pedals with my hand.

The bike is new, about a month old, everything worked well until last week and no, I'm not able to push the derailleur with my hand. I had a problem before when I was not able to shift (shifters won't click into the 3rd) into the 3rd gear (the largest cog), this was corrected when I took it to a bike mechanic. Now (about 4 days later) I've got a problem shifting between 2nd and the 3rd. Sometimes it shifts and most of the time it doesn't (shifting into and out of the 1st works fine). Btw I lubricated the chain after I got back from the bike mechanic.


texts:
I have taken my mountain bike to 2 different shops to have my gears adjusted.

They do not shift properly and end up "clicking" instead of shifting into the  correct gear.

I have had 2 shops adjust the bike and the adjustment never lasts more than 3 or 4 days.

My chain and all components are very clean.

Is there a fix for this problem?


texts: Why does hunger have a much more drastic effect in cycling than in other endurance activities?

texts:
When I'm out cycling I know that once I feel hungry, I only have around half an hour to refuel, otherwise I will bonk in a way that all performance is lost and it feels as if the only way to get me home is by pure will. This seems to be a rather common phenomenon since among German speaking riders there is even a name ("Hungerast") for this state. On the other hand I can go out for a 1-hour-plus run at similar intensity while already being hungry without bonking and even am able to push it hard at the one or other uphill during the run. Even if I push this quite far it does not feel as bad as in cycling but only gets more or less an "annoying" feeling that my thoughts start to revolve more around being hungry.

Does anyone have an explanation why this does feel so different in these two activities?


texts:
I am a weekend-warrior mountain biker and want/need to buy cycling socks. Should I buy regular cycling socks or merinos? I only ride one day a week for 1-2 hours in Mexico, that contrary to everyone beliefs, it is neither hot nor cool (between 8-18 °C or 46-65 °F) year round.

Any thoughts/experiences?


texts: replacing wheels on a hybrid running on 700c

texts: Using 700c wheels limits the choice of tyres and when touring tyres might be hard to find. Is there a problem in using 26 in wheels instead.


texts: Brakes contacting wheel after reattaching

texts:
I removed the rear wheel (quick release) from my Trek bike to install a bike trailer hitch.  After replacing the wheel, the brake pads are rubbing.  I did over-tighten the wheel when I first put it back on.

I've tried jiggling the brakes around, removing the hitch, but nothing seems to work.

Something else that came up while trying to solve this problem.  I noticed that if I hold the brakes in just the right position to eliminate rubbing, the wheel seems to come in contact with the brakes once per rotation.  So, as a follow-up question, is this a symptom of a bent wheel?


texts: Are there any rear derailleurs compatible with Shimano Tourney RD TX 80

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I need a new rear derailleur for my Claud Butler Urban 200.

I have looked at the old one and can see it is a Shimano Tourney RD TX 80 -7.

I have found these quite hard to get and I am wondering if there are any other models that would be compatible for my bike?

Any ideas?

Thanks


texts: Alternative to Cane Creek 200TT Brake Levers

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I'm newbie.

Looking for silver TT levers (not aero) for bullhorn on single speed (caliper brakes).

I'd like all silver levers (without tblack parts).

There's Cane Creek 200TT. But it has black parts nad I don't sure I like the shape.

Is there other alternatives? Something by Tektro, Die-Compe?

Thanks


texts:
Front wheel hub is loose and the whole thing wobbles a bit. Im a fan of dubstep but there's a little too much wubwub in my hub. How do I tighten that bad boy up properly?

Thanks!


texts: How does the Pog Security Washer work when using it with the Pinhead wheel locks?

texts:
I noticed when I got some Pinhead Wheel Locks that they came with an extra funky looking washer that looks like this:

They didn't describe much about it, but I did find some information about them:

It seems like without the washer you can use a Gator Grip Socket to unlock them.
Pinhead responded to this discovery by creating these washers and making this video. But in the video they didn't describe how exactly they work to thwart the Gator Grip attack.
They give them for free on their website to people who don't already have them.

I like to keep my bike fully secure from thieves, so I use and recommend the Pinhead wheel locks. I'd like to understand more how they work.


texts: How bad is this broken brake cable strand?

texts: I just bought a new bicycle. While I was fiddling with things (removing tags, mounting a light, etc.) I noticed that the boot on the rear brake cable was loose. When trying to reseat it, I found that one of the strands of the brake cable was broken, and poking through the boot. Furthermore, the cable is un-twisted just before the bolt that clamps it to the right side of the brake. These seem like very bad things to me which I should immediately get fixed (and complain about). Am I correct? Is the bike unsafe to ride?


texts: Rear bike stand attached to the axle bolt: safe?

texts:
Searching online I have found the following rear stand:

It is attached to the frame via the rear axle bolt (see the hole).

Considering that I often use rear panniers on my bike, would this exert abnormal loads on the axle, with possible risk for the bike and for me?

Edit: both stand and bike frame are in aluminum.


texts: Would a MTB frame be too long if fitted with drop handlebars to build an adventure bike?

texts:
I would like use a MTB frame to build an adventure bike, for the following reasons:

Use disc brakes
use wider tyres
avoid a using a gravel/cyclocross bike/frame because doesn't allow wide tyres and they are expensive

I am worried about the fact that a MTB frame is quite longer than a road bike and a cyclocross bike, and so the top tube will be long and with stem and dropbars will be too stretched and so uncomfortable over a long day on the saddle.

Would these factors make an adventure bike on a MTB frame too long, and so too difficult to ride over long distances? Or are there other considerations?


texts: Can I move one bike with a second bike with a QR and carrier-rack attachment?

texts:
I thought of drilling a hole in a rear rack then put the quick release in, therefore securing the bicycle on the rack and making it possible to move a bike with another to another place that seems like a good idea.

I just didn't find any post anywhere confirming my theory. I'd like to know what you think about this idea?


texts: Clicking noise coming from cog on fixed gear

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Ever since I put my rear wheel on after taking it off, I have had this constant clicking noise from the cog.

Here's what I know:

It wasn't always like this. I rode for a few months with no clicking noise.
Chain line appears to be straight.
Clicking sound comes from the top of the cog when pedaling forward and the bottom of the cog when pedaling backward.
Chain appears to "bounce" quite a bit when leaving the top part of the cog when pedaling forward and when leaving the bottom part when pedaling backward.


texts: I have a fork suitable for short drop brakes and I have Shimano tourney brifters (ST-A070) with the gear cable coming out of the side of the hoods and the brake cable going under the bar tape. Which brakes are compatible/ would you recommend?


texts: Campagnolo chainring bolt stuck to crank

texts:
I have a Campagnolo 11 speed Athena setup. I am enjoying a noisy creak which I suspect is located in my chainring bolts. I have replaced all of them, except  the one that screws the chainring to the crank. That one is stuck. I tried to unfasten it, but I messed up the bolt. My hex key can not grip it now.

Do you have any ideas on how to solve this?


texts: How can I adapt my pedals to account for a difference in leg length?

texts: I have a leg length difference of as much as 1cm due to a non-biking accident.  Adding padding to my shoe doesn't help. A friend recommended that I get pedal stacks (and a longer bolt) to my SPD-style pedals (or any other clipless pedal) for my shorter leg. I know it will affect the rotation, but it's better than wobbling on my bike with uneven hips because of the 1cm difference. Any advice? And where can I buy a pedal stack or any other equipment, so that my leg muscles are as even as possible?


texts:
At the moment, on my road bike, I have Shimano Tiagra groupset. I would like to upgrade it to Sram Red, but I cannot afford to pay for the whole groupset at one time and would like to buy them in steps. I am wondering if this would be possible to do. If yes which components would I need to buy first?

Thank you.


texts: What adjustments can you do to prevent psoas tightness in an aggresive postion on a road or track bike?

texts:
I have been paying attention to my own body and I feel that together with a sedentary job and not moving more than with the bike due to the COVID restrictions, I spend a lot of time in that shortened potion of the psoas which I'm sure will yield or aggravate problems around the hip like incontinence due to too much tension.

I have already had a fitting in the bike, measuring the pressure in the saddle, and how my knees and back is positioned.

But what can you do in a roadbike to prevent this issues on long rides in terms of technique while I'm riding? I had always heard about having activated your core, but I think this could also yield to problems because you are over tensing the rectus femoris and then together the psoas, and you don´t really ride relaxed? What muscle should be trainer to counteract this tightness?

I also think stretching is not enough to compensate for such a long sitting + also being in that position on the bike, so there should be something to pay attention while you ride so that al muscles act balanced, but Iḿ not able to find more information than just 5 generic stretches repeated over all websites.

In general I would like to now how to balance and check that the pelvic floor musculature works as it should during bike riding so that riding keeps being something healthy instead of aggravating being sit for hours.


texts: Multiple Bluetooth Smart sensors for bike?

texts:
I just bought a Sports Tracker Smart heart rate monitor that communicates via Bluetooth. Then I saw the cadence sensor that also measures speed and distance plus it communicates with Bluetooth Smart. I did some research and found out that there's a communication standard called ANT+. Neither of these devices support it.

Is it possible to use these simultaneously with my phone that has Bluetooth Smart? Currently the Sports Tracker cadence sensor is not supported with Android (or not with their software at least. Maybe with something like Runtastic Road Bike) but they plan to release a software update in summer that makes it work on Android.

Also, what softwares on Android you know that can support this combo?


texts: Is there a standard disc brake mount to disc brake rotor distance?

texts:
I'm new to disc brakes and trying to figure out what I need to buy to buy them for a wide fork (135 mm dropout spacing) with IS disc brake mounts and an electric front wheel.  I've researched, but I haven't found any information that specifies a standard distance between the I.S. front disc brake mount (i.e. where the disc brake caliper attaches to the fork of the bike) and the disc brake rotor.

Given that getting this distance correct is crucial, since a few millimeters distance is all it takes for the rotor to rub up against the caliper pads, I would think there would be a clear standard distance, but I haven't found one.


texts: I bought a pair of Clarks m2 Hydraulic disc brakes, pre-bled, and installed them on my bike. The rear brake worked great, good stopping power, but the front feels more like the mechanical disc brake that I replaced. Lever is hard and the stopping power is not nearly as good. I bought a bleed kit after being told the brake may not have been pre-bled properly. Went through the procedure (first time I have bled a brake) and now the brake works even worse than before. The lever is firm but the stopping power is lousy. I noticed when removing the bleed screw from the caliper that the screw was very tight and the o-ring fell off when pulling the screw out. Perhaps the seal is not good, allowing air to enter the system? Any help would be appreciated.


texts: Discouraging motorists from stopping at an intersection when they have the right-of-way

texts:
Where I live, bicycles are widely accepted in traffic; motorists are on balance considerate and careful around us. But on an almost daily basis, I run into motorists who are too "polite" at intersections. They stop and try to wave me through when I have no right to be in the intersection and, in some cases, when it would actually be dangerous for me to enter.

Two examples come up most frequently:

At a four-way side street intersection, where I am at a stop sign and the motorist has no sign or signal of any kind. Usually the only vehicles visible are myself and the car. I usually try to wave them through instead, and give them a friendly "thank you, anyways" wave and a smile.
Crossing a busy three-lane one-way road, where I have a stop sign and am not moving, feet on the ground. Motorists in the lane closest to me like to stop -- with traffic now stopping behind them and streaming along beside -- and try to wave me past. Here I often pretend to not be paying attention, but usually have to resort to a vigorous "keep on going" wave, with the same "thanks" as they eventually give up.

I run into other configurations as well,* but the core issue remains the same: it's far easier, and often much safer, for them to just continue and allow me to move through the intersection after them.† When I'm stopped and the car is moving, it will be out of my way a lot faster than I can get moving and past. I really do appreciate their consideration, but in the broader picture, I'd prefer they just continue in their right of way as if I were another motorist.

Ignoring the stopped car has only mixed results. Are there any other tactics I can employ to indicate that I'm perfectly happy waiting, and keep these well-intentioned people from stopping in the first place, moving on their way and out of mine?

*One that causes genuine confusion is dual-purpose marked crossings, where the same sign indicates the presence of bikes and pedestrians. The latter should be yielded to here.

†In some cases I think they're even committing traffic violations.


texts: Can I use a rim brake rear wheel in a disc brake bike, for indoor training?

texts:
I have a disc road bike (QR); I use it also with an indoor trainer with a specific training tire.
I would like to buy a wheel to be used only on the trainer (with the specific tire).

Since I don't use the brakes on the indoor trainer (no descents there...) could I use a non-disc wheel on my bike for the indoor trainer? They would cost less and easily found on 2nd hand market...

Or are disc wheels actually different (both QR obviously)?


texts: What are the advantages of a custom frame for a touring bike?

texts:
I'm building a new bike for touring while traveling, so I want a break-apart frame with S&S couplers, like the Salsa Vaya Travel, or another steel touring frame retro fit with couplers.  I want a bike I can confidently take down the long roads knowing that if anything does go wrong, I'll be able to fix it on the road and get rolling again.  I also want a bike that I'll be able to ride for a lot of years, without investing so much in it that taking it out on the road will seem like an unreasonable financial risk.

So, my question is: should I spend the extra money and time on a custom built frame, or will my results be just as good with a well fit stock frame and components?  What advantages can a custom fit provide that are unavailable in stock frames?  Over many consecutive long days in the saddle, do the benefits of a custom fit pay off any more or less?  Are there any risks or complications involved with building and maintaining custom frames that I should be concerned about?


texts:
To answer the comment after this question, what should one know about wind- and water-resistent jackets?

For example, what is "Gore-Tex", is it always expensive, and is there anything else like it?

This is for for wearing at near freezing temperatures (I don't need a summer rain jacket).

I want this for commuting, an hour each way, (almost) every day.

I'm usually warm or too warm whenever it's above freezing: traffic lights, bike lanes, cycle paths, some hills.

But when it is freezing, for an hour, I need, apart from shoes and gloves (and trousers/pants), some wind resistance: otherwise my skin arrives chilled. And cold rain can be chilling too.


texts:
I need to get a crank puller for my square-taper spindle.  There are several available on eBay and Amazon.  What information do I need -- about the puller, my bottom bracket and my crankset -- to pick the right crank puller?

My spindle is a bolt-type square taper.

(Is there a wide variety of crank puller types -- meaning I need to be careful to pick the right one -- or will it be obvious just by looking at them which ones fit and which don't?)

Here's what I have, in pictures.


texts: Where do people in Netherlands wash their bikes?

texts:
This would seem to be an absurd question, but I would like to know (especially from the Dutch or people staying in Netherlands) where do they clean their bikes? I am talking about:

a) Cleaning bike that's badly covered in mud / sand.

In Netherlands there are not many trails, but there is a wonderful beach nearby. I would love to ride on the beach but won't because I am staying in an apartment that has an extremely small bathroom and there is no balcony / terrace that I can use. I would not like to choke the bathroom outlet with too much of dust and dirt.

b) During rainy season after a few rides where to rinse the bike with normal clean water?

My situation:
I do not have the facility to use a water spray / jet spray that I can for cleaning my bike on the pavement outside my apartment.

My bikes
I own an MTB currently and am soon planning to buy a nice road bike as well. Despite what bike I own I love it and would like to keep it in the best possible condition.

People in Netherlands are passionate about biking and often ride good road bikes, and I'm sure the enthusiastic riders would've also definitely have faced such situation while caring for their bikes.

I am looking for some useful ways of cleaning here.


texts: Replacing SRAM Red chain set with Ultegra - bottom bracket?

texts:
I have a cyclocross bike with an Ultegra 6700 chainset and a road bike with SRAM Red. I'm looking to get a Stages Ultegra power meter (left crank arm mounted) that I can swap between both bikes. This means I'm thinking of changing the Red chainset over to Ultegra 6700 (or Dura Ace) since the left crank arms aren't compatible.

The bike in question is a 2011 Scott Addict R15: www.bikes.org.uk/scott-addict-r15-2011-road-bike

It's listed as having a SRAM Integrated BB Press Fit but after doing some research I can't figure out whether the bottom bracket will be compatible with the Shimano chainset or not. If I have to get a new BB then that's fine, provided that the frame will accommodate it of course.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, even just helping me identify exactly what BB I already have.

The other option of course would be to put a SRAM Force chainset on the cyclocross bike, if for some reason doing the conversion this way round is any easier.


texts: arm and elbow position -- sticking out or straight, also pushing or pulling on handlebar

texts:
All,

I've been riding on the road for 20 years, mostly without much discomfort. But for the past 2 years I've ridden only MTB. I recently had a professional road fit done where my position was analyzed. The fitter told me I should not stick my elbows out (which I do). He said my arms should be a little flexed at the elbows but in a straight line when viewed from the top (ie not sticking out). He also said I should be gripping the hoods with my hands pretty strongly and pulling rather than pushing on them, which uses abdominal muscles more than shoulders. He said that neck pain can be caused by pushing on the bars which hunches my shoulders up.

He was convinced that he set me up with the correct top tube length, stack/reach, correct bar width, stem length, height and angle as well as saddle position. So basically he thinks I need to work on riding using the form he described. But when I tried keeping my elbows in it was very uncomfortable. Gripping the hoods and pulling back didn't feel right either.

So I'm wondering if anyone has read expert opinions that either agree with him or conflict with his suggestions. I wasn't able to find much on Google about this.


texts: Alternative cranksets for a cross-country mountain bike larger than 48t

texts:
I have to replace my chain and gears on my 28'' cross-country mountain bike and I like to use the opportunity to make some modifications. I've tried to read up on this and I already learned a lot from previous questions here, but nothing fits quite right or the answers are too old to be relevant in part searches now.

Currently I'm using a Shimano XT drivetrain with a 10speed 11-34 rear set and a 26-36-48 crankset. The shifters are just Deore. The bike and parts are roughly 8-10 years old.

I'm rarely using the lowest gear but I find myself wanting for a higher one.

I figured the newer hubs with 10t smallest gear need new wheel hubs because of their small diameter, so this might be not an option.
The 48t seems to be already the largest chainring offered by Shimano in the XT range.

Is there anything I can do to get a >50t chainring on that bike while keeping the front and read XT derailleurs? I'm changing rear cassete, chain and chainrings anyway. Any other manufacturer that offers compatible equipment? Is there a Shimano road series that works with XT? Can I mix-and-match chainwheels from MTB and road series on my existing crank? Would it work with a new crankset? I think the bearings are worn anyway...

Any help much appreciated..


texts:
I got a 700x18-23 inner tube that just got punctured. The small round patch on my patch kit is a bit wider than the inner tube itself. Is it ok to cut around the patch so it fits?

An added question: when buying an inner tube,  should i buy the smaller 700 x 18-25c, or the 700 x 25-32c for my 25c tires?


texts: Too much Travel when installing Mechanical Disk Brake

texts:
I am replacing the cable for the rear mechanical disk brake on my brothers MTB, because it is all chewed up. Now when loosening the cable on the rear brake (barrel adjuster on lever and brake all the way in), I noticed that there was a preload on the brake arm that pulls the pads together, meaning that the cable was clamped while the lever was already moved up a bit.
This was as it originally came from the factory. The brake is a Shimano (Alivio controls) and looks something like this with only 1 adjustable pad.

Every tutorial I found for brake installation doesn't put a preload on the brake arm, even the official Shimano service document doesn't mention to move the lever up before tightening the pinch bolt.
On the other hand I can see why it came from the factory like this, because when clamped in the arms neutral position, even with both barrel adjusters turned out, the brake would only start to grip with the lever already fully pulled towards the handlebar.
So should I preload the brake a bit when installing the new cable or what am I missing?


texts: Good Brands for Front Pannier Rack on Suspension Forks

texts:
I've heard people talk a lot about Old Man Mountain racks. What other options are there? Roughly speaking, in your experience, how do they compare?

I'm specifically interested in this for touring but that probably goes without saying given the product.

I have a set of ortlieb front runner bags. so i just need the racks to attach them over mount bike suspension forks.


texts:
So I'm looking for a bike that has the following:
Belt Drive,
11 speed Internal hub,
Mudguards and can fit a rack at the back.
The Contenders
Canyon Commuter 8
BMC Alpenchallenge AC01
Ghost Bikes SQUARE URBAN X7.8 AL

Canyon and BMC have a 50T Crank in the front and 24T sprocket at the back.
Ghost has a 46T in the front and a 24T at the back.
All 3 have Shimano Alfine 11 speed.

On my road bike I normally cycle 28-30 km/hr
and my cadence is normally between 90-100 (maybe on windy days 110).

I'm just wondering
1. is there a system to measure gear ratio / cadence for belt drive bikes?

Not sure if this is relevant but here's someone asking about changing the front sprocket on a belt drive bike: Gates belt drive: installing larger front sprocket

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.


texts: I have a sram red crank set that uses a bb30 bottom bracket I want to use this crank set on my fixed gear bike wich needs a threaded bottom bracket would I be able to use this bb that works for my frame and bb?


texts: Why is a tandem harder to ride uphill than a single rider bike?

texts: With equal power to weight ratio, why is a tandem bike harder to ride uphill? I have friends whose Cannondale tandem bike weighs the same as their single rider bikes combined. But they find it easier to climb hills (compared to the bunch) on single rider bikes than on the tandem. They are experienced tandem riders.


texts: Rekindling a love for cycling after an accident

texts:
How can one "start" to love cycling as a hobby again after losing interest in it after having bad experience(s)? — Since having a car-on-bike accident and subsequently not riding for quite some time, I've lost the love of cycling: I'm not afraid/angry/stressed when on a bike (at least not any more than before the crash, anyway), so I don't feel that I have some sort of PTSD/confidence issues. Nevertheless, I don't have a desire to cycle: It just feels like a way to get from point A to point B.

My situation is of course in no way unique (cf. CyclingTips or Sticky Bottle) and is definitely related to accident recovery, so I thought there might be common methods for "learning to love" cycling again — am I right?

Background

Strangely enough, even before the accident, my love of riding was directly connected with riding my bike-- not just any bike. I even bought a bike which is even "cooler" (to me) than the bike I had before, thinking that it would help get me motivated to ride again, but it didn't work; Might it be possible that I actually never really had a love of cycling per se but rather a love for my bicycle?


texts: Removing old 531 frame bottom bracket. Where to source a pin spanner etc

texts: I've been riding a vintage 531 frame bike which I've stripped and rebuilt. However, I'm having problems with extracting the bottom bracket. This has some play in it, so I really need to remove, regrease and replace the bearings. I've managed to free up the lock ring with the help of a chisel and lump hammer (to give you an idea of how frozen it was) but I cannot now remove the bearing cup as I need the correct pin wrench tool. Has anyone any idea where I might buy a tool for such an old bike in the UK? There are 4 pin holes approximately 2cm (13/16ths)apart. The pin holes are approximately 2mm in diameter. The ones I've found that are readily visible on amazon etc are adjustable, but are for larger pin holes.


texts: Specialized rockhopper crankset replacement - please help

texts:
I recently got a new bike the Specialized rockhopper elite 29 and the crankset has been cross threaded and can no longer hold the pedals.
I am searching High and low to find a replacement crankset that will fit my bike. Im not entirely sure where to order from or even the right keywords to find what I need. I have supplied a screenshot of my bike spec and the url where I got the bike from. On the crank arm itself it says Stout and I believe the length to be 175mm.
bike url
Is anyone able to help me out with this. I feel completely lost and unsure what to do.
Andrew


texts: Which spokes should I get for an Expresso Coaster Brake with a Velocity Deep V 700c

texts:
I'm working on my first coaster project with an old 700c frame which I want to make really clean using an Espresso Coaster Hub.

http://www.espressowheels.com/griptape.html

Rear black coaster brake hub with 32 holes. Includes 16T chrome sprocket, chainstay fittings, nuts and bolts. Hub width: 120mm,
axle diameter 3/18".

I got the Hub from a friend and I want to make a nice rear wheel with a White Velocity Deep V 700c
http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/deep-v-622

I don't have experience building custom wheels, so I was wondering if you know which length spokes I should get to have it built.
I emailed espresso but haven't heard back yet. I live in the Hague in the Netherlands so any recommendations as to where I should get the wheel built and how much I should pay would be great.

Someone recommended I just take the rim and hub to the bike shop and have them pick the spokes and make it rightaway. Is that a better option?


texts: How to install a saddle on a seatpost with a top facing bolt

texts:
I recently purchased a new bike and I am trying to swap the original saddle for my own. On my previous bike both bolts holding the seat clamp together are down facing, i.e. accessible from below the saddle. On the new Bianchi one of the two bolts is facing upward and only accessible through the saddle cutout. This is fine when removing the original saddle however my saddle does not have a cutout, so I have no way of tightening that bold. There is not enough clearance to get an Allen wrench in there. There is a knob-like thing on the front bolt, but I couldn't dream to tighten it to 1 Nm, let alone the 8-10 Nm recommended.
I would go and ask the LBS but they are so busy right now they can't help anyone (some are downright dismissive when asking for help). Any help, suggestion or reading material would be appreciated. Thanks


texts: Trying to fit a Blackburn EX1 rack to my bike

texts:
My wife brought a second hand CoPilot Limo seat for her bike which came with a Blackburn EX1 rack.

I have just tried to fit this but came accross a hopefully minor problem.  Her bike is a Giant Revel 3 - this has two rear dropout eyelets for the bottom part of the rack but no eyelets underneath the seat to bolt the silver rods onto.  We live in Brussels and I went to a local bike shop to see if they could help, but the guy just shrugged his shoulders and said that there was no solution other than to buy another bike seat that clips onto the metal frame.

I've been reading about using p-clips instead but just read on another website that they can slip.  I need too obviously find the safest solution.


texts:
I was watching the BMX racing on the 2012 Olympics and the gearing seems incredibly low. About half way down the start ramp they are already going too fast to keep pedalling and they barely seem to be able to pedal effectively any other time through the race.

Why don't they adjust the gearing to be higher so they can get more power down through the course?


texts: I installed my rim tape then noticed was too wide so I trimmed it with a razor knife. Would this have caused any damage to the rim bead?


texts: I recently got this rack for free. Someone down the street had left it outside with a “free” sign. How do I actually use it? Do I need to buy straps to hold the bikes down? Am I missing a part? It seems like the bikes would immediately bounce out of the indents without any retention.


texts: How do I mount rear derailleur on frame without separate hook part?

texts:
(Language barrier warning! Please edit if I used wrong english terms)

After few years my generic rear derailleur started to fall apart, so I got new shiny one aaaand I have no idea how to mount that thing. Video tutorial authors seems to consider this an obvious task, with which I have some problems as my hardware seems to lack that hook thing to which you mount those hellish spiny devices with french sounding name that eludes my browser thesaurus.

I have no idea how half of those parts are called in my language, let alone in english, so I made pictures! Also, I never replaced this part, treat me as newbie.

Right next to wheel nut I have this hook thing pointing straight down.

And here is old and new:

Old one was Shimano Tourney that came with bike, new one is Shimano Acera. Gearing is 7x3. (In my region choice is between no-name trash, pro-parts with pro-price and variety of Shimano, so I am pretty much stuck with this brand)

Old one was attached with this:

As it stands now when I just attach new one directly to frame, which is quite bothersome when its all coiled up, it can freely rotate around mounting screw (seems like feature) but nothing blocks it from going up (and screwing itself into cassette, which seems bad).

Can i just mount it and proceed with servicing?
Do I need some kind of adapter?
Or maybe it is not compatible?
How do you call that sideways regulation screw (with blue paint) near
attachment point?
Should this contraption go up on its? Is its position regulated by
chain tension?

(Yes, I am replacing all cables as well)
(Yes, I still have some cleaning to do)


texts:
My son has a Diamondback Recoil Comp MB with Shimano M355 brakes.  The rear brake lever got messed up somehow.  The snapring that holds the plunger/piston into the master cylinder assembly got popped out and is missing.

I was hoping someone knows the part number for this snap ring so I could buy that rather than a whole new brake lever assembly.

Does anyone have a parts manual or parts sheet/drawing of this brake lever assembly?

The part number on the brake lever assembly is Shimano P/N BL-M355.


texts: I need to get a new rear derailleur. My chain rings are 53/39 and my cogs are 28/11 so if I am not mistaken I need a total capacity of (53-39) + (28-11) = 31. I need a 11 speed compatible rear derailleur. I was thinking about getting a Shimano 105 5800. On their website they say that the capacity of the SS is 32. Should I go for it or get the GS since the capacity is 37?


texts: Is there an improvement braking from the hoods from Shimano Sora 3500 to Sora R3000?

texts:
I'm struggling to brake from the hoods on my first drop handlebar second hand bike although braking from the drops is fine. I read on this site somewhere that older Shimano Sora ergonomics were particularly difficult to brake from the hoods due to the pivot position. I don't have anything to compare my bike to (my local bike shops are not keen on people popping in and handling their bikes right now) but the levers do feel very badly designed as far as braking from the hoods is concerned. I will probably upgrade the brake callipers (from Tektro Mira) anyway but was wondering if upgrading the levers would also be worth it.
So my question is does anyone know if there is a significant improvement braking from the hoods between the Sora 3500 levers and the Sora R3000?
Thanks.


texts: How can I fix brake pads being too tight even after pushing the pistons back in?

texts:
I just got delivery of a road bike with SRAM Red disc brakes. It was delivered with little inserts in the brake pads to prevent accidental squeezing of the lever when the rotor was not in.

When I put the wheels on, I noticed that the pads were too tight on the rotor even in the released position, so they were rubbing heavily (not because of misalignment but because of being too tight.)

So I did what I read online:

Removed the wheel
Removed the brake pads
Gently used a flat-head screwdriver to push the pistons back in (the best I got was so that they were flush with the body of the brake caliper)
Put the pads and wheel back on.

Unfortunately, when I squeezed the brake lever again, I could feel that the feeling got firmer and firmer for 2-3 squeezes, until, again, the brake pads would not recede from the "braking" position, and be in contact with the rotor at all times.

What can I do to fix this?


texts: Cracked frame riding into the back of car, what's salvageable?

texts:
Stupidly rode into the back of a car, due to a moment's inattention. I pretty much hit it at full pelt, though I was riding uphill at the time.

The frame cracked, as this photo shows. Any idea what else is likely to be wrecked? Front wheel? Headset?

edit: Got a quote for a frame repair, for the two tubes, four to six braze-ons and a respray (which is assuming no headtube damage) I was quoted "at least £400".


texts: Protecting yourself from briars / brambles / jaggers while mountain biking

texts: Riding in the northeast US, I find myself encountering a lot of overgrown mountain bike trails in the spring.  Many of these trails are bordered by briars / brambles / jaggers.  I can't totally avoid them, so what can I do to protect my legs from them while not subjecting myself to overheating in hot weather with high humidity?


texts: How do you know if your wheel is correctly centered?

texts: I am from India and I have a one month old commuter bicycle. I have once tried adjusting front wheel using the quick release, but I haven't removed the tire. How do I know if the wheel is correctly centered?


texts: Bike brake cables popping out of brake handles

texts: A couple days ago I got in a small bike crash and since then both my front and back brakes have this issue. As shown in the picture, the metal ends of the cables come out of the handles when I squeeze the brakes, and then they get stuck outside and my brakes become useless. What is the fix for this?


texts:
I just ordered a new KMC X10SL Ti 10 Speed chain for my bike.  And I am wondering if I should use a master link or not.

In the past I have had much trouble with them.  I used to use them on my 9 speed mountain bike, and the master link would fall of often.  It turned out that how the suspension compressed it pushed the chain backwards and the master link would pop out.

Now I'm changing the chain on my road bike for the first time.  It's 10 speed.  And it doesn't have any suspension.  Should I use a master link, or not?

My bike is a Scott CR1, it's their entry line carbon bike.  I ride it about 150mi/week.  A am concerned that using a master link on a chain like the one I ordered will be a problem because it may wear faster then the rest of the chain.  Is this true?  Or am I just paranoid?


texts: Can't push lever to shift into big ring, lever will not move all the way

texts:
I just installed a new 6800 groupset on my bike for the first time, and everything went O.K except for the front derailleur. I can't shift it into the big ring, if I push the lever to change to the big ring, it won't go all the way, and it won't make a click.

If I push just the smaller lever (to get into the small ring) it makes a click just fine, but if I push the big lever, it will move a bit but not enough to click.

If I disconnect the cable from the FD, I still can't get the lever to move and make a click. Is the cable stuck somewhere?


texts:
I regularly pass a (UK) road sign that I don't recognise.

My gut instinct is that it's warning me about a bridge or a tunnel but it's on a normal dual-carriageway and there are no obvious overhead structures for more than a mile, nor are there any side turnings that it seems to relate to.

So what the heck is it and what am I supposed to be looking out for?


texts:
Can you help? I have just been given a bike as payment for some repairs I carried out for a friend. Not sure what frame type it is, I know that it's a Cinnelli with a Campagnolo gear set and brakes as well as 700c rims in black. On the bottom crank casing it has some letters and numbers I think they are grey?brey? Followed by what I think is 228298-84. Sorry for the vaugeness.

Is it vintage? Rare? Any idea of value at all?

It is very clean a few little spots
Would love some info on it if you could please

Please let me know how to send you pictures, can't find where you can create an  attachment.


texts: How do I maintain a Brooks leather saddle?

texts:
I've got a Brooks leather saddle and i like it a lot, but i am entirely clueless on how to care for it. I know i am supposed to rub some sort of fat on it, but i have no idea what kind of fat, or how often, or how strong or how much, etc.

Can you give me pointers on how to keep it nice or if possible link to step-for-step instructions?


texts: Is it possible to change a Shimano FC131 crankset's chainrings?

texts:
I'm going to buy a bike wtih this crank, but I want to change the bigger ring. This is one of the lower end shimano cranks -- so I am worrying that the chainrings may not be replaceable.

Thanks

Guys now I'll be needing a DIY way to change the rings cuz those gears are wayyyyyy to low for me. I need something, what about pulling off the bolts or something?.....


texts: Safety guidelines when using MTB clipless pedals on a road bike

texts:
Yesterday, I went for a ride and my legs felt really great (hadn't been cycling for about 2 weeks) so when I was climbing on a hill, I decided to go on a full blown sprint and unfortunately... somehow my leg got released from the pedal and on the push down, my foot hit the ground and that was enough to get myself flying over the bars.

I got used to the regular road bike clipless pedals and that never would've happened with them, what should I do in order to not fly over the bars again on my next sprint?

I use the clipless MTB pedals on my road because the extra I had really helped me with my knee.

Solution:
It's quite apparent that the springs were just too loose.

I can now lift the bike with the shoe on it easily.


texts: I keep getting flats right at the valve!

texts: I changed 3 inner-tubes, they keep getting cut right at the bottom of the valve. I sanded down the hole where the valve goes, it had a sharp edge! Flats still happening...


texts: Does it makes sense to buy a women's seat for man's mountain bicycle?

texts: We are buying an electric mountain bike, a Specialized Turbo Levo SL, for my wife.  It's a men's bike, and I see, for example, the SCOTT Contessa differs from men's models by having a women's seat, and narrower steering handlebars.  Does it make sense to buy separate a women's seat for 1-3h, 3x/week rides? Do they differ much from men's seats?


texts: Safe and proper (or vice versa) left turn in traffic

texts:
I'm new to commuting in traffic, and I realized immediately that the left turn (US traffic rules, right turn in UK) in an intersection with a traffic light is just dangerous.  My basic questions are:

Do I pretend I'm a car and get in line behind the last car waiting?
Pros: I'm forcing people to think of cyclist 'as another car' which is half the battle as far as I'm concerned.
Cons: I don't like sprinting against cars once green if the line is long.
Cozy up next to the first car in line waiting for the light?


texts: I generally commute along four-lane 30 mph [50 km/h] main streets. Is this wise?

texts:
crasic's view

Elsewhere, crasic writes:

  The Most Direct Route is Not Always the Best

  ... Your driving commute route is usually a horrible bicycling commute route. I purposefully avoid big roads as much as possible and take small residential streets or dedicated bike paths when available. An extra mile on a bike path can actually save you time over a shorter busy commute route — not to mention the savings to your health, safety, and the increase in your general enjoyment. If my commute reminds me of my Sunday ride, then I know I have a good route.

  You are a bicyclist. There is no reason to endanger your life on the 50mph [80 km/h] express-way when the 25mph [40 km/h] residential street can get you there just as quickly. In California, residential streets are often extremely wide (Parked car + Bike Lane + 1.5Width lanes both ways) compared to dedicated expressways — and can be orders of magnitude more safe and comfortable to ride. The pavement is often newer and less broken.

  If you are new to the area, spend a weekend or two just exploring local residential streets. Hop on over to Google Maps and find the a way to use small streets to get to where you need to go. (Often this involves riding through the residential maze and with at least 5 or 6 street changes.) Practice your route at least once and carry a printout of the route with you at least the first few times.

  [...] During busy commutes, drivers are often distracted in many different ways (putting on makeup, drinking coffee, worrying about being late, etc.) and can be unaware of bicyclists. Nothing will ruin your day more than an accident on the way to work.

John Forester's view

But, if I remember correctly, John Forester writes in Effective Cycling that four-lane main streets (with traffic lights) are better for commuting than little two-lane residential streets (with four-way stop signs at every block). The main streets are straighter and flatter. He adds that, if you take the lane, drivers will notice you and give you space. (Personally, I do generally take the lane.)

My usual practice

[Edit: I'm in Toronto, Canada.]

I'm seriously annoyed by having to brake heavily at every single four-way stop sign (especially when descending). Also, the residential street grid doesn't always pass underneath expressways or major railway lines. So I tend to end up doing most of my commuting along busy 30 mph [50 km/h] main streets, rather than quiet residential streets.

I don't usually commute during rush hour. The car drivers seem to calmly accept it when I take the lane; and I accept the drivers' right to use the road too.

My question

Is it wise for me to stick to main streets for the majority of my ride, even though there are quiet residential streets just a block away?


texts: Clicking with each pedal stroke, warranty?

texts:
So I recently bought a trek marlin 7, mostly to commute to work, nothing rough so far, and this week when I'm going uphill specially, or downhill, or accelerating; sometimes is downright random, it makes two click noises, once per pedal stroke click, click, then click, click... weirdly sometimes it throws three click cl... click! two for the first stroke and one for the second stroke.

I'm getting pissed because the worst is that I can feel them in the pedals, and I don't know if it's going to blow up at some point and throw me out the bike, specially when I'm going fast. But it happens randomly and rarely, however quite audible. I checked the derailleurs to the brakes and the seat, nope, the sound occurs in any gear.

But this bike is fairly new, will it be covered by the warranty? I'm broke now after I bought it.


texts: Carbon steerer with expander plug under the stem, should I be worried?

texts:
I just bought a custom fixed gear frame that comes with a carbon fork with carbon steerer, off a guy who already cut the steerer lower than the stem so that the cap can sit flush on the stem. Normally I would put a 5mm spacer above the stem, because it seems like the general best practice.

However the fork was already cut so that with the expander in, after tightening the cap, the top of the expander plug would leave 2mm below the stem. I might be able to find a way to shave the top part of the headset a bit to save like 1mm, and since this frame hasn't been ridden, it should settle in just slightly deeper after a few rides.

Either way, should I be worried? or is this normal that it is not a problem?


texts: Are narrow-wide single chainrings compatible between 9, 10, 11 and 12 speed?

texts:
I am planning to convert my bike to 1x12 setup. Since it is an old bike I want to keep it as low budget as possible. I am looking to keep my existing BB an crank. I have read multiple posts about people just dropping high and low chainrings from 3x ring chainset and replacing middle ring with specific narrow-wide chainring suitable for 1x by setup. It does not look very slick, but there is no reason why it would not work.

So far so good. But now I am in the market for a narrow wide chainring. I can get BCD and number of tooth that I want, but some of these chainrings are advertised as 10speed compatible, others say 9x, 10x, 11x etc.

So the question is: what exactly is so specific in narrow-wide chainring that makes it compatible with say x10 but not x12? Any advice appreciated.


texts: Feasibility of bike frame design by a layperson

texts:
I'm sure for many bike builders, their ultimate dream bike starts with a frame that they designed themselves. And herein lies the problem: it seems that modern means of frame production (e.g., hydroforming) implies very sophisticated shapes of frames, not just a bunch of round tubes welded together.

Is the design of a frame (together with rigidity calculations) something a layperson can reasonably pick up without taking a Mechanical Engineering degree? I'm curious about how all this stuff is actually learned and whether there are some places (training?) that explain it less than a few years.


texts:
I just bought a second-hand bike for my daughter knowing that the dynamo hub was not working and now I would like to try and repair it.
I tested that the dynamo does not produce electricity.

I also verified that the positive contact wire is always in short-circuit with the hub body, both before and after disassembling the hub.
That to me means there's something seriously wrong inside the dynamo and I will need to replace it, at least the internal magnet.
I am just not 100% sure with these new (to me) hubs.

Can anyone confirm that there should NOT be any contact between the wire and the internal assembly ?

Edit: this is a Shimano DH-3N20 Dynhub. There's only one cable coming out of the assembly. I used a multimeter on the cable and on the shaft. I suspect the previous owner attempted some clumsy repairs, perhaps damaging the cable.


texts:
I have an old Free Spirit road bike. It's in good shape and runs fine, but I started noticing that when I'm going uphill or pedaling in a high gear there is a squeaky sound coming from what seems to be the crank.

Any tips on fixing it or could it be another issue altogether?


texts: How to tighten a Fox Thru Axle, Cam Lever/QR Skewer?

texts:
The cam lever on my Fox Thru Axle is loose but its unlike the Rockshox axle where you can just tighten it up with a little allen key at the top.

(edit from comment below) The quick release lever is a bit wobbly on the axle, It feels like it needs to be tightened more to the axle just like how you would tighten the Rockshox Maxle with a little allen key at the top of the head but I don't know how to do it with the Fox/Shimano one.

How do I tighten it up to the axle itself? Do I push and turn or what?


texts: I have seen a lot of different types of Rear View mirrors. Ideas on which mounting/type is most used and why? ie: sunglass frame mounted, helmet mounting, handle bar mounting, or others. I ride both mountain and road bikes, obviously I don't feel the need as much on my MTB. Ideas and suggestions appreciated


texts: I recently bought a preowned Saracen Havoc 2000 (Team Saracen edition) and had to replace the original forks (Zokes branded double crown) as they were seized solid. Replaced them with an old but working set of RST Gila forks but now have a fair bit of flex where it moves a few mm's when rocked froward with full front brakes. Also makes a distinct knocking noise, as if something isnt fitting properly. Any help would be very grateful.


texts: Should Max Heart Rate be sport dependant in cycling?

texts:
Since it is not possible (a lot harder) to achieve the same Maximal Heart Rate when cycling than with a different sport such as running, to what Maximal Heart Rate do we calibrate our training zones to? The MHR obtained during cycling or the slightly lower MHR during running?

Since we are only talking about a small shift in the Heart Rate Zones and I could not find any information on the subject, the second question would be: To what extent would the cyclist benefit from obtaining his MHR through an all-out effort in cycling and not from another sport?


texts: practical pro and contra for Nuvinci CVT especially for hilly terrain

texts: I'm thinking of buying new bike next year, most probably combo for exercise & commuting in summer. Since terrain is relatively hilly here and both fixed city-bike and casual combo with 3x7 gears making me too much tired, I thought of buying as additional item NuVinci Mondo hub. Reviews are mostly positive but I'd like to read real pro and contra, not paid-by-manufacturer-or-reseller review. Do I win anything real for that price? Or is this just money waste? What are maintenance costs and issues?


texts: what type of bike/frame to use when overweight?

texts:
I'm around 230lbs. Since I do enjoy biking, I was looking up old school racing bikes on craigslist. Some of the frames are built with "Tange 1" steel which specify weight limits (180lbs). Is it really possible that I might damage the bike if I choose to ride it?

For someone my weight or higher, what kind of bike and/or frame should be used? Is there any concern if an aluminum frame is used? Or does all of this depend on the manufacturing quality (eg, Tange 1 instead of Tange 5)?


texts: Is there a simple way to measure, record, and use wind resistance or tail winds?

texts: Since moving to a new office where my commute is a bit longer I have been obsessively recording my cycle to work hoping to see a gradual improvement. (N.B. I've stored them on Strava but you need to be a member to see aught but a summary page). It looks like any increasing fitness is not the dominant factor, wind is. We know that wind resistance has an enormous effect but is there a way to factor it in to my data? How might I measure, record, or just note wind speed through my ride and somehow factor it out when calculating performance each day?


texts: With what material should I fix a creaking sound on one of the pedals?

texts:
I recently (about 2 weeks ago) changed from regular road clipless pedals to SPD clipless pedals on my road bike.

I didn't have time to change them myself so I just asked one of the workers to put it on and I know for sure that he didn't apply any grease or oil for where the pedal is inserted and tightened.

Now (after 2 weeks of pedaling) my right hand pedal makes a creaking sound once I put my full weight on it, I don't even have to pedal, just putting my whole weight once the right hand pedal is at 6 o'clock will cause the sound (I specifically didn't touch the saddle to be sure it doesn't come from there).

I searched on youtube and looks like the simple solution is to take off the pedal, apply grease to the inserted end of the pedal and tighten it back.

My question is:
Do I have to buy grease for it or can I use chain lube or WD-40 and if I have to buy grease, does it have to be a certain type of grease (I'm guessing motor vehicle grease is a no no)?

Solution:

I loosened and retightened the chainring bolts and afterwards greased the pedals.

It wasn't hard at all for me to take out the right pedal with the wrench  (where I presumed the clicking was) and it looks like that was the main problem.
anyway, I took the time and greased everything anyway!

thanks for the help, guys!


texts: How similar are saddles made by the same company?

texts:
I have a Specialized Phenom on my mtb that is very comfy and a Specialized saddle (standard one from an Allez) that I use on my commuter bike which is also comfy.

The Selle Italia saddle that came on my Cube road bike is not and I'm looking to replace it. Can I assume that all Specialized saddles are modelled around the same shape and will fit the same (for a given size/sit-bone width) and that if I have one the right shape, others will also be or is it a case of taking every model in its own right? Will be a while before I can get time to go to the LBS to try seats.

(I know it's not really what this site is for but does anyone have experience with Specialized Toupe saddles? Worth trying?)


texts: For a very amateur rider, is Specialized or Trek worth it?

texts:
After 15 years of being off a bike--and my waist line showing it--I'm about to buy a new bike and get back in shape.

Looking around, Trek and Specialized appear to have good hybrids, which is my desired bike. I have zeroed in on Trek DS 8.x series--leaning to DS 8.4--and on the Specialized side a Crosstrail Elite.

These bikes cost several hundred dollars more than competitor offerings. Are they worth it? Sure they have fancier components and I do like hydraulic brakes.

I can think of two substantive ways they could be worth the extra money:

They are more reliable and will have less long term maintenance costs
They will have a higher resale value

Does anyone have a good opinion on whether either of these things is true?

Thanks.


texts: Can anyone help me to identify my TREK mountain bike model from the serial number?

texts:
I bought my TREK mountain bike in 1999 when I was living in Germany.
After a few years of use I moved & it kind of got mothballed for the past 15 years for one reason or another.
I am now back on the road and its pretty much like new after some basic maintenance.
My query is what model is it (receipt is long gone).  Info that may help:

Serial number is: S99050362 (nothing on the http://www.vintage-trek.com/ looks relevant)
27 Shimano gears with Deore LX M570 STi shifters;
( Silver with black decals colour; fairly light weight metal (aluminium??) frame.

It may be a model manufactured from about 1996 onwards but I bought it in late 1999.
Any insight would be appreciated.
I have trawled the web but the serial number on the frame has no hits.


texts: Air in oil damper of suspension fork after pulling hard while disassembling

texts:
I've opened my Reba fork (FS-REBA-RL-A6) for the 1st time to investigate an air-spring failure and found the lower legs quite difficult to separate, even after not-so-gently tapping the bottom bolts.

I've pulled them hard (by hand still, so not suuuper hard) and when the shafts suddenly separated from the lower legs, the two pieces (crown upper legs assembly and lower legs) separated abruptly, with an "air popping" sound.

No oil seemed to be in there, just some drips and some grease. Maybe that's why it was so hard to pull?

Despite the non-genlte procedure I was forced to do, all seemed good. Now... since it's my first time opening a fork, I'm in doubt if I could have damaged anything.

I'm worried about the oil damper. It sounds mushy when I move the shaft in and out. Like air is inside, mixing with and creating foam in the oil.

I guess if I've pulled too hard I could have pulled air in... is that even possible? isn't there air already in normally?

The reassembly instructions in the manual, when one refills the damper back with oil, look like they leave some air in too (pour 108 mL and just close the thing). I guess it's ok but just wanted to check with you out.

Thanks in advance!


texts:
I washed my bike few days ago with soapy water. I didn't directly wash the brakes, but I assume I got some soapy water on them.

Now my disc brakes do not work. I can see that cable is tight enough, and the pressure is there, but it does not stop.

The front brakes are better after 1 day of driving (but still are weaker than before). The rear breaks are pretty much useless.

Details about the bike & brakes:

Bike: Cyclocross (bought last year)

Brakeset: Tektro Lyra mechanical cable actuated disc brake with 160mm wave rotors and Shimano ST-2300 STI brake levers


texts: How to convert 17" bike to 18" without changing the frame

texts:
I bought an Author Basic (2012) with a 17" frame.

But I have some back aches after 2 or more hours of cycling (just cycling or with little jumping) and sometimes I feel a little unsure while riding (discomfort).

I think it's about frame size. My preferred frame size is 18" and I figured this out later. I can't give the bike back to the store.

When I had Mongoose Tyax Comp (2010) in size S with Kenda Small Block Eight tires I felt more comfortable and self-assured than on my current bike.

So what can I do now?

My brother says that I can lift my seat back a little + buy new longer stem and it can help to win couple inches but I don't know if it can really help.

Or maybe there are some different and more convenient way?

I have no money to buy new bike or new frame, so I'm hoping to find a tweak or solution for my current bike.


texts:
What's the better braking strategy for steep, technical descents?

"Brake hard, then release completely & roll."

vs.

"Maintain constant pressure on the brakes."


texts: Exceeding speed limit with Ebike, is battery affected?

texts:
I bought a ebike and happy with it. My 30 mins ride to work every day dropped to 15 mins.

But according to law in country where I live motor stops when I exceed the speed limit which is 25km/h.

Since I am using ebike just for assistance I am pedaling as well. But most probably I am dropping below 25km/h(very often) and motor is being on again(or is it?).

I wanted to ask how this being on-off frequently(which can be my rich imagination) situation effects the life of the battery?


texts:
I put a picture of my original frame. The internal diameter of the straight cylinder is 31mm.
In this frame was installed an original fork of diameter 1''.
I would like to buy this fork : https://www.bike-components.de/fr/Surly/Fourche-Rigide-Straggler-Disc-28-700c-p38261/
but the diameter is 1 1/8''.
I wonder, since there is some space between the frame and the 1'' fork, if I can installed this 1 1/8'' fork ?
I will need also to buy a new stem, but it's ok, my problem is more about the compatibility frame/fork.


texts:
I'm trying to get my front derailleur to stop rubbing in the high gears, smallest sprockets. To do this I am attempting to follow this guide by shimano:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SORA/SI_5GR0A_001/SI_5GR0A_001_En_v1_m56577569830614926.pdf

It says that when in the largest chainring it should be possible to adjust the derailleur so that it is 0-0.5mm aways from the largest chainring on the side furthest away from the bike. This however is not possible and seems to have been set by the lbs simply by putting the cable at very high tension to push it over so it doesn't rub. I believe this may be slipping or stretching and causing the rub to return.

What's the correct way to do this? Is this normal or is the derailleur being dysfunctional?


texts:
I am about to go off on a 2,600km tour from Austia through Italy, finish in Malta. I originally planned to do this solo trip on my Giant Trance x2 full suspension but decided not to since it is too high maintenance.

So after a lot of searching (budget being the greatest restriction), I have chosen a Bianchi Hybrid camaleonte http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/camaleonte-iii-alfine-2009-hybrid-bike-ec019250. Now I'm confused, since it only seems to have 8 gears!

What are your thoughts on the bike? Would you recommend adding on new chain rings if it is possible?

Thanks

How many km per day are planning? 200km

Are you going to ride over the passes? Yes

What gear are you going to carry? Tent, clothes and cooking stuff

Will you have other riders with you? no

What level of riding and touring experience do you have? I've done 2,000 km in 9 days on a high-end mtb

...and it only has one chain ring, os it is a 1x8 setup..in the mountains :S

Should I look at another bike? It is looking like it! Or is it easy to add 2 other chain rings to the bike?

Thanks
Ian


texts:
I live in Brooklyn, NY and in order to get in a decent 30+ mile ride (road bike) I either need to do 9 loops of Prospect Park (ugh..) or head into Manhattan, go up to the GWB, and onto 9W. Then I need to come back. Getting to the GWB is a real pain from Brooklyn and not reasonable time-wise weekday mornings before work, since it takes over an hour just to get out of the city.

Question: Do you guys know of any 30+ mile rides that are unimpeded by pedestrian or car traffic starting around Prospect Park? Happy to head to East New York or Queens.

Thanks.


texts: How do I make sure I'm sitting straight on a recumbent?

texts: I have recently (at the time of original posting) taken up cycling a recumbent (a now discontinued Azub Eco 20" bicycle). My perineum thanks me, but immediately after a ride I feel a bit lopsided (more than usual). I presume I'm not sitting quite straight on the bike (or the seat isn't quite straight) so I am always leaning slightly. Is there an easy way to check whether I'm correctly positioned? (Or is it just my body that's asymmetric?)


texts: Warranties on cycling clothing in the event of a crash?

texts:
I recently destroyed the clasp on my pair of Fox Head Demo shorts while riding this weekend (don't worry, I'm OK). Do cycling clothing brands/companies offer any sort of warranty on their clothing for something like this?

I am specifically interested in clothing intended for more extreme use like downhill where it should hold up.


texts: What might be causing my inner tubes to get rips behind the valve?

texts: I'm on my third inner tube now and it's always the same problem: an oblong shaped rip on the part right behind the presta valve. I'm at a loss since instead of the valve side, these rips are appearing on the other side. I've been told this might be because the innertube gets folded inside but I'm always making sure to massage and bounce my tires. I really don't don't what to do since it's always just at the same place that this happens.


texts: How often should air spring forks be reinflated (topped up)?

texts:
Forks that use an air spring, as opposed to a coil spring, have to be pumped up to the desired pressure to work as intended (using a shock pump). From experience, I know that they lose pressure over time. However, I usually notice the pressure drop only after it becomes very apparent, and the time in which this loss occurs seems to vary somewhat, so I do not know what is the normal interval for reinflating forks, or the normal range for such interval. The service manual of my forks (all are RockShox) does not state this interval explicitly. Rather, it describes intervals for more elaborate service procedures (50 and 200 hour service) that involve deflating and reinflating the air spring as an inevitability, so I do not think that they should necessarily be taken as reinflating intervals.
I would like to know this primarily because it would give me an indication of whether my fork is damaged or in good condition (I can always check if my fork is losing air, but without knowing how often this loss normally occurs I cannot tell if the fork is fine or not). So, what is the normal fork reinflation interval?


texts:
I have recently acquired a folding bike.  One of the most irritating things is the folding pedals, as pictured:

Pedal in folded position

Pedal in deployed position, ready to ride

Close up of pedal latch - this image shows the sliding latch in the middle of the platform that holds it in place.  To fold, you insert finger into hole and slide the middle section outboard.  This pulls two tabs from a slot in the silver metal part, and the pedal platform is free to rotate up/down

When pedalling normally, it feels "okay"  but when exerting some force on a climb I can feel the pedals bend under the load.   It gets much worse when out of the saddle.

If I were to estimate, it might be a 10 degree deflection of the pedal body from the pedal axle center line.

To minimise the effect, I've made a conscious effort to put the ball of the foot on the silver metal part, which feels much more solid than the rest of the pedal.

So my main question: Is this normal for folding pedals or should I be exploring for folding pedals that are more solid?

Or do I simply fit normal pedals?  This may interfere with the folding function on the left crank, and will leave the right one poking out more as a shin-collector.   On the plus side, clipless.


texts: Is chemical stripping as good as bead-blasting to prepare a steel frame for repainting?

texts:
I have a rather nice old hand-built 531 frame and fork that I'd like to have repainted. Some companies offer bead-blasting to prepare it, but others offer chemical stripping.

Is this as good as bead-blasting for steel; does it offer any advantages?


texts: What is the wear limit for a disk rotor?


texts: Lock jammed - key will go in and out but cannot turn

texts:
I know that similar questions have been asked here, but I can't find a question with the exact same problem encountered here.

My bike was left locked during a week or two of sub-zero temperature, and another week when my wheel was punctured (almost three weeks I think). And the day I started riding it again, I felt the lock started to jam but managed to lock the bike anyway.

Now since a week ago I cannot unlock it: The key goes in but doesn't turn at all (I bought the lock less than a year ago). I've suspected that water froze inside the lock, and so I've applied some water displacer in it (gt85) which has worked last time it has jammed, but not this time.

Is there any hope to unlock it if I use a lubrificant? And what type of lubrificant should be used?


texts: How to fix a broken dura Ace shifter( body)?

texts:
Crack just beneath the lever.
As you can see that my dura Ace shifter is cracked but but interesting part is that it works perfectly fine but the problem which I face while sprinting is the play which is in the right shifter.
It was cracked when I was crashed during a mass start.!
People please I would really like to know you opinion. Any kind of glue or paste which I could use to get it back together.


texts: Is the max pressure on tubeless rims specifically for tubeless, or do they apply to tubed tires too?

texts:
I have a set of ZTR Rapid rims that are tubeless compatible, but I never run tubeless tires on them. They have this list of maximum pressures on the side of the rim:

Since the limits are dependent on tire size, I assume that the rim is structurally sound enough to withstand at least the highest pressure listed. And since I've never seen pressure limits of any sort on traditional rims, I assume that it's somehow specific to tubeless tires. But that's an awful lot of assuming...

So my question is twofold: Why the different limits for different size tires? And are they specifically for tubeless, or do they apply to tubed tires as well?


texts: 132.5mm dropout spacing with a 130mm hub AFTER it has already been used with a 135mm hub

texts: I have a steel frame with 132.5 mm dropout spacing, the manufacturer claims it is compatible with 130mm or 135mm hubs...but I wonder if it will remain compatible with 130mm hubs AFTER it has been run with 135mm hubs?  My concern is the 135mm hub will stretch the dropouts so it will no longer "work" with 130mm hubs. Should I be concerned?


texts: How can non index shifters be limited to a specific range of gears?

texts: Searching on eBay, I find shimano SL-MY34s. Description says that they should only be used with 5/6/7 gears. What limits them to this range?


texts: How to figure out the BCD my chainring has

texts:
I have a 2017 Diamondback Line. My chain has come off a few times and this post says get this chainring. I wanted to confirm my bike requires a 104 mm bolt pattern but don't know how to do that; the specs only say "Alloy arm with 32T single ring."

I may not need a new chainring, it's probably my shifting because it usually only happens when I am pedaling hard and in a higher gear (not sure if lower or higher but a gear that requires more effort to pedal) but lets assume I do.


texts: Black threads are coming of my tire. Does it need to be replaced?

texts: One of my bike tires have started shedding long black threads. I'm assuming that this means that something is not right. The tire has a folding bead. Does this mean that my tire should be replaced as soon as possible, or is it nothing to worry about?


texts: Waht is the difference between Shwalbe's Basic compound and Performance compound tyres?

texts:
Schwalbe produces a wide range of tyres. Their "Basic compound" tyres are twice cheaper than the same model but with "Performance compound".

Anyone have user experience with the two product lines? What are the practical differences? Are the Performance line MTB tyres made of "soft" rubber, that provides superior grip?


texts: Have multi-speed non-freewheeling bikes ever been common?

texts:
Prompted by a recent question I was pondering the idea of bikes with variable gearing (derailleur or otherwise) but without the ability to freewheel. Have such bikes ever been widely used?

They would appear to share many of the advantages and disadvantages of fixies but be better at handling hills (up and down) while being more complex.


texts: Can I use 10-speed Shimano STI shifters with a 9-speed drivetrain?

texts:
I need to replace Shimano 105 STI shifters on a 9-speed road bike which was damaged in an accident, however there are few places that still stock 9-speed Shimano 105 STI shifters.

Can I use the 10-speed Shimano 105 STI shifters with my 9 speed cassette and derailleur? How well would this work?


texts: What are the benefits of external bottom brackets?

texts:
Pretty soon, I plan to replace the bottom bracket on my early 90's Sakae Litage road bike.  It takes a standard, English-threaded bottom bracket.  Right now I think it contains loose bearings--I was planning to replace it with a decent-quality cartidge.

I see a lot of external bottom brackets when I am looking at my LBS's website.  I have replaced many sets of loose BB bearings and several cartridge BB's.  I know nothing about these external things.  Why do there seem to be more of them for sale than cartridge bottom brackets?  Do they have larger, longer-lasting bearings?  Would it benefit me to consider one as opposed to the cartidge BB's that I have been using recently?

I ride pretty seriously for fun, commuting, and errands... I built this bike specifically for doing really hilly weekend rides.  But I'm not a racer.

Curious.  Many thanks.


texts: Microshift Advent rear derailleur cable pull ratio?

texts:
What is the pull ratio of the MicroShift ADVENT rear derailleur?

I like the gearing of their 11-42 9-speed cassette and 47T derailer's capacity, but not the ADVENT road shifter(s), and investigating what other (road) shifters can be used. Naturally MicroShift says "none" :)


texts: Are shifters compatible with different derailleurs?

texts: Can I simply choose one shifter without taking into consideration the derailleur that will be used with it and vice-versa?


texts:
I'm currently living in Holland, Michigan, and we get quite a bit of snow (lake effect from Lake Michigan). I purchased a Giant AnyRoad CoMax this past summer which is great for commuting in all seasons other than winter.

This past week, however, I attempted to commute with 1-2" snow on the ground and dumped it four times in two commutes (ouch! my hip still hurts), so I don't think that's an option for the winter. It's mid-December now, and I'm already getting cabin fever, so here are the options I'm considering for Winter/snow commuting:

1) Snow tires for my spring/summer/fall bike: This is the option I'm least inclined towards for at least two reasons, for one, when riding on my other seasons bike in the snow I got the idea changing the tires alone will not be sufficient for 1+" of snow, and for two, to avoid changing tires often this would require a 2nd set of rims (and 2nd cassette, brake rotors, etc.), at which point I'd suppose it would be better to get a second bike altogether.

2) 27.5" or 29" mountain bike: This seems to be the best option. I don't need something super high end, rather I'd be looking for something mid-range that could be used perhaps 30-40 times a year when there is snow and will get me where I'm going, for example here are some possibilities:

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/revel-2

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/revel-29er

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/atx-lite

3) Fat tire bike: This is the option I'm least considering as these seem to be very expensive, and I'm not sure huge tires are necessary for light snow.

4) Any other suggestions?? (other than moving to California which is not an option at the moment)

I guess the decision really comes down to which size/type of tire is best for commuting in 1-2" snow with possible occasional ice patches, 27.5" or is 29" necessary/suggested?


texts:
Since switching from the Michelin Pro2's to the new Pro3's I've experienced an increase in puncture flats.  Nothing has else has really changed in riding style or conditions.

The Pro3 ride much nicer.  A bit more supple.  But I'm tired of flatting.

Are these tires particularly prone to flats? Is there anything that can be done to prevent flats with them? If not, are there other similar tires that are more puncture-resistent?


texts:
I need to change my headset bearings, however, there seems to be so many different variations out there, and I'm afraid to order the wrong parts.
Why not just order the same type as the old bearings you might ask? Well, they did not really fit; I think the previous owner just had some random bearings laying around that he used as makeshift replacement parts.
So, I was wondering if anyone here could point me in the right direction?
It is an external cup bearing, and the measurements are as follows (measured with a measuring tape, so probably not 100% accurate):
Head tube (inside diameter):
Top: 34mm,
Bottom: 34mm
Steerer tube (outside diameter):
Top: 29mm,
Bottom: 30mm
Thank you!


texts:
I want to upgrade my 3x9 Sora shifters to 3x10 105s.  However, looking at the Shimano Compatibility Chart, it appears to indicate that I'll have to replace my front and rear derailleurs in addition to the cassette, which I knew I'd have to replace.  But I'm not sure I'm reading that chart correctly.

The bike currently has a Shimano Sora bottom pull front derailleur and a Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur.  Can I get by with just replacing the cassette?


texts:
I'm starting to ride again after a couple of years of not doing any sports at all. I dimly remember some stretching exercises back from school, but I don't know if I'm doing it right at all.

Instead of listing what I'm doing and asking for "correct, yes/no", I'd like to know how exactly one should prepare for a bike tour. I'm currently doing small tours (20km) to get used to it again, but plan to go bigger during summer.

Just a few minutes ago I stumbled upon the following article, explaining a few stretching exercises. Unfortunately, it's focused on running, and I believe that there aren't exactly the same muscles involved.
Five Fantastic Stretching Exercises (pdf).

The article also mentions a cool-down phase, which I don't remember at all from school.

So, to conclude: How should I warm up, how long, what stretching exercises should I do, and when? How should the cool down be done?


texts: What is the easiest and quickest way to pump up a tyre?

texts:
I find that I need to pump up my tyres at least weekly and am looking for how to make this quick and easy.

So what is the easiest and quickest method of pumping up a bike tyre?

As an example, I found this device recently. (forwarded to the best part)


texts: How did cyclists get over curbs before BMX era?

texts:
There were curbs before 1970s, right? I wonder whether everyone had to dismount or dramatically slow down before curbs until bunny hop and wheel lift became popular, I guess, in 1970s among first BMXers. Same with cyclocross: for decades, from its beginnings, riders always dismounted before barriers. But suddenly, inspired by BMX, they realized it's possible to simply jump over?

EDIT: changed wording to underline that CX is much older than BMX.

EDIT2: I don't want to make you think that you need BMX bike to hop curbs. What I'm pointing to is that before BMX there was little mainstream attention to techniques like bunny hop (at least I got such impression), and after BMX got popular they spread throughout all cycling world. Though not many of us are skilled in jumping curbs, virtually everyone knows that can be done at ease by other riders.


texts: Training for The Enbridge Ride to Conquer Cancer (approx 200km over 2 days)

texts:
I have registered for the The Enbridge Ride to Conquer Cancer next July (Montreal to Quebec City approx 200km) and am keen to make sure that I prepare adequately in terms of cycling practice, other exercise for fitness and nutrition.

I am looking for advice from anyone who has done something similar, and also wondering if anyone in my area (West Island Montreal) is going to do this so that maybe we can buddy up and train together.

I'm a keen cyclist but have never done more than 50km in one day, so I'm new to this distance and keen to talk to anyone who has achieved this event in the past.

Thanks in advance,
Kelly.


texts: How much tolerance is acceptable on the chainline of a fixed gear conversion?

texts:
When converting a geared bike to fg/ss, at some point there will be adjustments to be made regarding chainline. Without getting into details about what could be made to make it better (bb axle width, hub spacers, different cogs, whatever), how much disalignment can we have between chainring and rear cog?

Currently, I am building a fixed gear out of 90s MTB frame, track rear wheel and road crankset, and I am sure it will work eventually, because I've done this before and I don't care about the hassle. What I hope is someone could give this question a final answer, to enable (or not) people who are into that "DIY fixed gear spirit" to have some confidence (or to know the risks with more certainty) before starting a new conversion project instead of simply buying new stuff.


texts: Resources for suspension setup and tuning?

texts:
I recently aquired a full suspension bike. However, I have had a hard time finding resources which tell me comprehensive strategies for setting up the suspension (Air pressure, adjustment, dial settings) for my fork and rear shock. What resources are available (outside of individual product manuals) to teach me more about how to set up my suspension properly for optimal performance.

Sheldon brown just doesn't cover supension tuning for 5k wonderbikes, who would have guessed.


texts: Which rims should I purchase to avoid breakage of spokes?

texts:
I might need to replace my rims soon. I've had frequent problems with breakage of spokes, so it's a good opportunity to buy stronger rims and/or spokes.

What characteristics should I look for if I want to fix this problem? Should I pay attention more to the spokes or to the rim?

Some details: I don't do racing, so weight is not an issue. I do trail riding, including jumps. I have disk brakes.


texts:
Been wondering what benefits and advantages do people get when changing cogs.
Does increasing or decreasing the gear tooth affect or increase your speed? TYIA For the answers. How would this affect my mtb? And which number of teeth is optimal for me? (I use my mtb as commuter)


texts: 2 broken spokes same side, can I replace with one from the other side?

texts:
I had an accident and now have 2 broken spokes on the rear wheel of my mountain bike. No bike tools, and no bike shops in the country with 29 inch spokes or rims.

Anyway I have removed the two broken spokes and have a badly warped back wheel. The two spokes are both from the same side, there is 3 intact spokes between them.

Given that there is no way to replace these spokes at the moment, if I took a spoke from the other side and replaced one of the broken ones would it help true the wheel? I need this bike, so I'm going to have to use it until I can order spokes from overseas but it's unrideable at the moment.

Would it be better to try and replace both with spokes from the front wheel perhaps?

I've read about spoke tools, but I don't have anything like that, is it possible to do this with normal tools?

Update:- Got the back rim unwarped, just a bit wobbly now, and managed to get into town with a replacement front rim off my girls bike. Couldn't find a 26, so hopefully will do better on Monday when more places are open.


texts: Old thumb shifter slips - can it be mended?

texts:
This bike is over 17 years old and not particularly high quality, but it does not make sense to replace the whole thing over one shifter. So I am looking to repair it if possible. I'm confident with most aspects of maintenance, but I've no idea what goes on inside these things.

When changing 'down' to an easier gear with the thumb, the lever slips and the gears do not change. The lever moves further than is expected, with no resistance. By simultaneously applying lots of upwards pressure with the thumb, you can sometimes get it to shift. Once it does shift, the rear functions happily. I've had no other derallier issues.

There's an allen key fitting on the top, and a screw on the bottom. I have not opened it up, worrying that springs will ping out and all will be lost!

I've no idea if it needs more lubrication... or all the gunk cleaning out. Go tighter... or looser?

Thank you.


texts: FSA Tempo crankset is not compatible with FSA Vero

texts:
I just purchased a new FSA Tempo Adventure JIS crankset - 46/30 to replace the FSA Vero Compact 50/34 JIS crankset on my 2018 Cannondale Synapse Sora 9 speed as I need lower gearing.
Both are shown as FSA "Road" and should be compatible.
But they are not...
On the Vero, the interface to the BB sits slightly above the plane of the inner chain ring.
On the Tempo, the interface to the BB sits a few mm below the plane of the inner chain ring.
Net result is that the chain rings of the Tempo are closer in to the frame, and actually touch the chain stay so cannot be fitted.
Does anyone know if there is a way to to overcome this problem?
Maybe there is there a replacement BB that would compensate for the movement of the Tempo cranks closer in to the frame?


texts: I cant find this answer anywhere but what is the screw size of the Peloton sclip that goes onto the cleat?  I need a longer screw for my shoe but cant determine the thread size to make that determination.


texts: Tire for both road and wheel on turbo trainer use?

texts:
I'm looking for a rear tire for use both on the road and on a wheel-on turbo trainer.

I'm currently using a fairly cheap road tire, but I'm finding it slips at higher resistances. I don't want to buy a second rear wheel and cassette, and I want to be able to go out on the road and train indoors without swapping tires.

I gather that turbo trainer specific tires are not safe for road use. What characteristics should I look for in a tire, that would make it suitable for turbo trainer use, in particular to reduce slippage, but still be safe on the road?

My bike is a conventional road bike, with modest tire clearance: it currently has 28mm tires on and probably wouldn't accommodate much wider.

Thanks


texts: Bike stops in place when trying to manual

texts: I recorded myself while practicing doing manuals or even attempting to loop out to practice bailing. I noticed that whenever I start to preload and pull back, my bike stops in place until my front wheel goes back down. Am I simply going too slow? Is this the reason why I tend to fall sideways whenever I try shifting further?


texts: Pain on pinky toe joint from cleat setup?

texts:
I recently got SPD cleats for my road bike and have watched a number of videos and read articles on how to set them up as best as I can. I seem to have them set where I can comfortably pedal with the ball of my foot, but after about half an hour or so I start feeling some pain in both of my feet, where my pink toe connects to my foot.

The red circle here indicates where I am feeling the pain:

My feet naturally toe out quite a bit, so I set up the cleats accordingly, but is this area hurting because I've set too much toe on the cleat? Or not enough? Or is it something else completely?

Cheers.


texts: What are the best places to ride in the USA? (Road and mountain)


texts:
This is an entry-level road bike made by "Upland", a Chinese company.

That fork is aluminum. You usually only see steel (and sometimes carbon) forks curved like that.

The only reason you would have a curved fork is so that it can absorb shock from the road... but doesn't aluminum fatigue when flexed like that?

I'm contemplating getting this bike, because it's cheaper than a trek 1.1 (for example), while having better components.

The fork is a concern. I don't mind having a stiff ride (which you generally get from AL forks), but I don't want to take any chance of it snapping due to excessive work-hardening.

Any opinions?


texts: I have a Schwinn GTX3 Hardtail with a M3010 Suntour fork. I looked up the model number on the back of the left leg and it is supposed to have a preload adjuster available. However, mine does not for some reason. I was wondering if it would be possible to install a preload adjuster or lockout if I buy the parts, even if it does not have them on currently. (Btw: The fork is the one that originally came with the bike model.)


texts: Removing lockring/ cups off head tube on vintage BSA bike

texts:
I finally managed to get the SOB crank arms off the bike. It took a spare seat post and 100mm enginners vice, and perseverance.

Anyway I'm on the home striaght now in terms of getting the bloody thingy painted finally.

I want to know what tools I need to remove the BB and the cups off the head tube?

Here are some photos of what am talking about


texts: Help to find the history of my 1900's Armstrong cycle :)

texts:
Pretty new to the whole vintage bike thing so would love a bit of help finding the history of the bike I bought in Walthamstow, London, last year.

It's marked to be an Armstrong Cycle, Birmingham, which I have found a lot of information on, but mainly around the 'moth' models and tandems - I can't seem to place the 'Havana'. I'm looking to find the approx date of creation, and perhaps a bit more about it's stand-out features.

Here's some pics.

It's got the original seat, bell, lights and 3 gears - it's in great working order.

Any help would be much appreciated :)

Charlotte


texts: Identify this hub (similar to a Sturmey Archer rear internal gear hub w/ drum brake)

texts:
I recently came across the auction of  an old Gazelle city bike. It is equipped with rear internal gear hub with drum brake which looks like Sturmey Archer 3 gear hub. But this hub has two shifting cables (one on each side, going to the internal hub) and very strange shifters, which I guess are not original.

The auction description states that this is 3 gear hub.

I've seen Sachs Pentasport 5 hear hub with similar shifting design, so I suppose it might be something similar.

Please, help my curiosity and identify the model of the hub.

EDIT
on the handlebar I've noticed some kind of gear shifting instruction, which suggest there is indeed 5 gears.

Auction


texts: V-brake noodle broken: replace immediately? With what?

texts:
I realized today that the front brake noodle on my folding bike is most likely broken. It looks normal as long as the wheel faces left or forward. As soon as the wheel faces right, however, the noodle gets a weird bend (see pictures).

The brakes are still working, but I suppose I should replace this noodle in the near future. Should I look for something special or are they standard parts? Do I need to replace other parts like the cable?

In addition, I am wondering how I can make the replacement noodle last longer. The big cable tree of the folding bike seems to put quite some pressure on the noodle.

Thanks for your help.
Matthias


texts: Hybrid, touring, or road bike for new commuter?

texts:
I live in Los Angeles and have a 2hr commute to UC Irvine by train with bus connections on either side. After doing this for a year, I am looking to start bike commuting to and from the train stations to get back in shape. Because the routes are so different, I'm wondering which bike type is best?

The ride to school is 2 miles with a downhill incline to Union Station on a busy street without bike lanes. Then I can hop on the train with plenty of bike racks. The ride to school is a nice 6 mile ride in paved bike lanes and paths the entire way, and very flat. I would ride the opposite way home, but the ride is slightly uphill the entire 2 miles home in busy traffic.

A road bike sounds like a great option for the 6miles near school, but would this hold up well on a busy paved street in Los Angeles? I'm just starting to get back on the bike after 15+ years with I borrowed mountain bike, so I know I can make the trip at least :)


texts:
Yesterday I crashed, and somehow the front wheel landed on a rock or something that made my valve extender break. The bottom part of it is still stuck in the valve it extended. It's a tubular tire so just changing tube is not an option.

Any suggestions on how to get it out?


texts: What does WSD mean relating to mountain bikes?

texts: I keep finding a WSD version of bikes I'm interested in buying. What does WSD mean?


texts: Shimano Bottom Bracket LHS cup - splines all worn off. Removal tips?

texts:
In reference to one of these BB's:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-UN54-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B0039369B4

My kid had successfully chamferred the left BB cup's  splines, until there is no useable spline surfaces left.  metal alloy, not plastic.
What happened was the Right cup worked it's way loose (by design!) and he just kept riding it until the left crank abraded the left cup to nothingness, that, and he couldn't pedal it any more ;).

Q1. What is the recommended extraction method for the mucked up left cup?   Dremel and cold chisel?
Q2. Does the LBS sell just the left cup?
Q3. To prevent a repeat, is it advisable to put some Lock Tite on the Right cup?  From what I can tell, the BB was never faced properly, and the RHS cup will continue to work loose, given it is a LH thread and is on the RHS.

Thanks.
Jordan


texts: Fort bicycles company from Czech Republic: Where are the steel frames? Company renamed?

texts:
There is or was a company from Czech Republic that produced steel frames and forks. The name of this company is or was Fort.

Why can’t I find anything about this company or their steel frames and forks?
Where can I buy them?
Where are the specs?
Where is the companies website?
Do they still exist or did they change their name?

I tried to contact (via email) the assumed company website that can be found via search engines, but I got an error mail from Mail Delivery System which states that

edward@fortbicycles.com (ultimately generated from info@fortbicycles.com)
"No Such User Here"

So I still hope somebody here may know which one is the real company that formerly built steel forks and frames. And how I could contact with them.

fortbicycles.com is only a vendor in nothern America and not the manufacturer’s website.


texts: Can I use 11 speed chainrings with 9 speed chain?

texts:
To be more specific, my bike come with Shimano Sora 9 speed group set. I'm using a KMC X9 9 speed chain.

I studied quite a lot of websites. They claim that chainrings are compatible with any speed of cassettes.

Are there compatibility problem with existing components if I put on Shimano 105 11 speed chainrings?


texts: What is energy output in Strava application?

texts:
I'm 115 kg. Today I took two bicycle rides:

42:41 time, 12.1 km distance, 72 m elevation, 17.1 km/h avg. speed, 33.1 km/h max. speed,
50:50 time, 11.7 km distance, 17 m elevation, 13.9 km/h avg. speed, 32.8 km/h max. speed.

Strava calcualted folowing figures about energy in each of these rides:

first: 405 calories / 363 kJ energy output,
second: 353 calories / 317 kJ energy output.

Ever since I remember I was always told, that 1 kcal = 4,1855 kJ. So these numbers are weird or incorrect. What is energy output in Strava or in general?


texts: Will the topeak FX & RX mudguards fit a Carerra kraken?

texts:
I have this bike

Will these mudguards fit OK?

I don't know much about fittings, but there is a picture on the bike link.


texts: What are the advantages/Disadvantages to clip and clipless pedals?

texts: I`m fairly new to the sport and I see the people in my town half have clips and the other clipless pedals. Is there any advantage to using clipless  competitively or recreationally?


texts: i need to replace both wheels on a Giant Escape3 which are compatable?

texts: I need to replace both wheels on my Giant Escape 3 (2016) which ones (700) are compatable?


texts: Does anyone have experience with wooden saddles?

texts:
I've been looking online at a wooden road saddle and it looks pretty sweet but not sure how comfortable it's going to be... The description says it's made from maple wood and designed to flex, so it sounds like it should be a decent ride. But, it's wood.. so...

Anyone have experience with a saddle before?