texts: What ingredients are necessary in a sports drink when you must drink a lot?

texts:
Comments to this answer say e.g.,

  Can't stress enough how ... important it is to drink more than just water

... (and other people's comments then ask for details about the drink's contents).

The context is in answer to this question, How to ride when the weather is hot? -- to which people answer that it's no longer adequate to just drink water.

There's a related question here Formula for Homemade sports drinks but I don't find it informative.

My question is, what's the minimum ingredient list for a "sports drink", on a day when you should be drinking several liters?

For example, when I get home I drink water mixed with a cheap fruit syrup (i.e. some kind of sugar) plus table salt (i.e. sodium chloride).

Is that sufficient? Móż commented,

  Seriously, electrolyte drinks are just sugar, salt and flavour. Two of those things are very, very cheap.

Another comment was,

  Any sports drink powder will do. Basically sugar and electrolytes.

Upvotes suggest people think this comment is important:

  Make sure you get a real sports drinks, not lollie water sold as sport drink

Is salt sufficient as an electrolyte or is it important to have more (e.g. calcium, potassium, and/or I don't know what) during a ride?

What about other ingredients (proteins, amino acids, even fats, or whatever), do you suppose any of those are essential? Beneficial? Or should I take it that they serve to differentiate a store-bought product and maybe justify a high cost?

I get slightly inconsistent results from looking at the ingredients. Two of the products people recommended in comments were "Hammer" and "Rynopower".

Hammer for example has approximately (to within a factor of 2) equal quantities of each electrolyte:

Sodium (as Sodium Chloride) 80mg    4%
Chloride (as Sodium Chloride)   120mg   4%
Calcium (as Chelate)    100mg   10%
Magnesium (as Chelate)  50mg    12%
Potassium (as Chelate)  50mg    1%
Manganese (as Chelate)  500mcg  25%

Or:

Calcium (as Calcium Carbonate, Calcium Chloride)    100mg   10%
Magnesium (as Magnesium Oxide)  50mg    13%
Manganese (as Manganese Gluconate)  3mg 150%
Chloride (as Calcium Chloride)  60mg    2%
Sodium (as Sodium Bicarbonate)  200mg   8%
Potassium (as Potassium Bicarbonate)    100mg   3%

Whereas Rynopower has much more sodium:

Sodium     333 mg
Potassium  85 mg
Calcium    40 mg
Magnesium  24 mg

The latter suggests to me, rightly or wrongly, that Potassium, Calcium, and Magnesium are trace elements which don't need to be replenished in a big way en route (as long as your regular diet include adequate calcium); whereas the former implies that you need as much extra of those other elements/salts as you do sodium.


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My wife has about 10-15 years old, but very rarely used (thus in quite good condition) bike with a large "Quest" label in place, where all other bikes has its brand name.

By reading all the labels on that bike, I managed to read this:

  Quest Courage, 20 inch, 21 level Shimano, Quest Courier

Not much, but I thought, that using Google etc. this will allow me to learn more about these bikes. However, when I tried to search the Internet, I found very little toward nothing. All I found was this site, but it seems to be about completely different product.

On some old forum there was a post claiming, that this is a marketing name for Dick's Sporting Goods, but searching this site for Quest name brought no results around bikes.

I also read a few claims, that this is a very, very low-end and very low quality line of products. Some even said, that if you plan to ride more than 10 miles on road or take this bike off-road then you should definitely forget about "Quest" line.

All these claims seems to be contrary to what I have and to what many bicycle repair shops claimed about my wife's bike (saying, that it looks like a good quality and in good condition, taking its age).

Can someone shed a light, what exactly is this brand? Is it still in production or when it was produced, if it is off market right know? Is there any website or support or anything?


texts: Mounting Shimano Acera Derailleur: Supposed Gap?

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When installing a new Shimano Acera derailleur instead of an old, broken one (same model), I noticed that there is a little "opening" (marked in red) in the "frame" around the bolt that connects the derailleur to the bike, and it seems to be the negative shape of the bike frame (also in red, second picture).

first picture:

second picture:

However, I cannot get them aligned, due to the parts marked with yellow. If they were aligned, it seems that I could just screw the whole derailleur a tad closer to the bike, and this gap would give more stability with respect to rotation, which would seem reasonable to me.

I found no instructions for this problem online (except an explanation of the purpose of that screw by the yellow-marked area), but I want to be sure that I am not getting on my bike with a screw not as fastened as it should be.


texts: What electric bikes are for sale in the US, and how good are they?

texts: I am interested in purchasing an electric bike but am puzzled as to what brand is best. It seems as though most companies are importing their products from China, which is great because they are low cost but they look bulky and maybe even cheap quality. There aren't many electric bike manufacturers let a lone traditional bike manufacturers in America.


texts: Pacing for 90km time trial with heart rate monitor

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I'm participating in my first race by doing the 90km bike part of a half-iron man relay - I'm hoping to complete within 3 hours.

I would like to know how I should pace myself with a heart rate monitor. I have been training with Carmichael's Time Crunched method so would appreciate if the heart rate's were given as a percentage of the CTS field test HR (max sustainable HR in 8 mins).  Any other pacing strategies are of course welcomed as well.


texts: Can 25mm tubeless tires fit on a wheel that previously had 22mm tubeless tires? I have a set of wheels that previously had 22mm tires on it. There is no description of tire compatibility listed on the wheels.


texts: Is there a more sophisticated tool than Rohloff HG-Check

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I bought the Rohloff HG-Check as it was apparently the only tool out there to measure cassette wear.

IMHO it's just too uncomfortable to use and with practice and good sight you can actually determine faster if the cassette needs to be changed.

Already checked:  How to tell when to replace cassette?

Is there a tool more sophisticated/expensive or even unknown to the general public that I can check? And or easier/faster to use.

Plain honest, I'm just not that good checking wear by eyesight.


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Sorry if my technical English is a bit imprecise.

I just put on new Shimano CN-HG53 chain. I joined the ends not with regular pin, but with provided reinforced one (like one of those below).

The problem is the tip (end) of that pin is entirely outside the link now, and I should break it off. But it is so well made, that I cannot do this. With bare hands -- not possible at all. With pliers

I move the pin tip up-down, but entire chain is rotating (even if I grab it with my hand). I could hold still chain with another pliers but I am afraid of damaging the link I would hold with pliers.

So what tool is required to break it off, and how to do it?


texts:
My son has had an Early Rider Belter for around 14 months.  Recently, I've noticed the free-wheel sounds "gritty", and there is quite a bit of friction if you move the cranks backwards while the rear wheel is spinning, exactly as shown in this YouTube video (posted by someone else... clearly the hub has issues).

I've removed the rear wheel and taken a look at the sprocket.  It's not like Shimano hubs I'm familiar with.

Can this hub be serviced?  If so, how does it come apart, and what tools will I need?

It appears to have "KENGMIN fastace" printed on it, but a google for this term doesn't provide anything useful.

Here are two pictures of it:


texts:
I recently bought a Canyon AL 9.0 Di2 bike and would like to mount a triathlon handlebars on it. My ultimate desire would be able to have the gear switchers both on the triathlon and the bike's handlebars. My questions are :

(i) Is there gear to achieve all the above without cutting and soldering the wires and doing that type of nasty work

(ii) If it is not possible to have it the (i) option, maybe one can do it with cutting and soldering the wire?

(iii) Any suggestions for the handlebars for this type of bike? I have a rather weird body-geometry (with rather short legs and rather long torso).

Any comments are very helpful.


texts: Unused puncture repair patch - what's its useful shelf life?

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Sometimes I fish around in my shed for a repair kit and pull out a pair of patches which have been sat around for a while (a year?) I find the patches are stiff (even though they're still in their foil).

I proceed with the repair but suspect it isn't as sound as it would have been with a freshly purchased malleable patch.

Tonight, while doing a repair, I actually looked at the patch and the kit box to see if there is a Best Before date (there isn't).

But what is the useful shelf life of an unused patch?


texts: Installing downtube shifters on a bike with no bosses or cable stops

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Following up on the same bike as my previous question, we were able to get it cleaned up an running very well at the end of last summer.

My brother has been riding it for a few months now and the main issue is that the SunTour friction shifter for the rear derailleur doesn't hold tension and frequently shifts to the smaller cogs on its own.

I bought a set of SunTour LePree downtube shifters to replace the shifter that's currently on the bike.

I plan on installing a clamp with shift bosses like:

However, there are no cable stops on the bike. The housing has been clamped like below and the shifter housing runs right up to the current shifter.

The new shifter doesn't have a cable housing stop and so I'm considering using a clamp-on cable stop on the downtube closer to the bottom bracket.

Am I on the right track or is there a better way?


texts: I can't extract sealed bearings out of hub

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I am attaching pictures of the rear hub of my Giant XTC Advanced 29” 1.5 2017. The hub is manufactured by Formula.

I am unable to extract the bearings. I'm tapping hard from the side of pawls, bearings are supposed so be released in the other side but instead they don't move a milimeter and I am afraid of tapping even harder. What am I missings?

Thanks.

UPDATE: Picture with outer bearings and spacer extracted, and inner bearing held by circlip.


texts: Are public bicycle rack providers liable if your bicycle is stolen from their rack?

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My bicycle was insured and locked to a leisure centre provided bicycle rack while I was in the leisure centre and was stolen by the time I came out. I was later informed that someone else had their bicycle stolen the previous week.

The leisure centre did not display a 'left at owner's risk' sign, 'thieves operate in this area' sign or have line-of-sight CCTV but provide both of these for car parks.

Is the leisure centre partly liable (in UK law) for not providing reasonable security deterrents such as CCTV and 'thieves operate in this area'?


texts: Why aren't winter bicycles camping events common as the motorcycles one?

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Here in Europe there is a trend of organizing winter motorcycles rallies in wich the participants go camping in the snow, wearing furs and cooking on camp fires. The first and most important is the Elefantentreffen in Germany, but there are dozens of similar events, and several are still coming to light: as an example, Pinguinos in Spain, Agnellotreffen in Italy and so on. People comes from log distance, often driving for thousands of kilometers in the cold.
Part of the thrill is the difficulty of riding in the cold and snow and the necessity of creating strange patchworks on the motorbikes to keep the rider warm or to create motorcycle tyre chains for better grip on the ice. The motorcycle preparation before the event often goes on for months experimenting strange solutions and testing it on the icy roads.

I am a motorcycle and bicycle enthusiast and very often ride in winter. I can say that driving a bicycle in the winter is not only safer, but at least as comfortable as a motorbike, because:

You can use studded tyres, as there aren't tyre regulation for bicycles (while motorbikes have law-enforced tyre sizes and ofter there aren't winter tyres available for that size)
There isn't, at least in Italy, any bicycle ban in winter, while there are for motorbikes on icy roads or during snowfalls (ministerial directive RU\1580 of 16 Jan 2013)
You warm up yourself pedaling without having to rely on heated grips, heated jackets and so on
You can use bicycles designed expecially for snow (fat bikes)

While bicycles camping events are pretty common (an example is BAM, Bicycles Adventure Meeting here in Italy), I'm not aware of one of them that takes place in winter and in snowy places.
I think it is pretty strange, as I know several persons that would try something similar.

So, why isn't this format of events available to cyclists while it is for motorbike riders?


texts:
I have a road bike with 22mm tires. They are super fast, but I get them punctured a lot.

I have decided to switch to wider tires to avoid snake bites, and I was wondering what would be the minimum recommended width of the tires.

I am fully aware that I may not be able to fit just about any 622 ETRTO tire (700c) due to cantilever brake clearance; which is why I am asking about the minimum.

UPDATE: In the end, I went for Continental Grand Prix 4-Season, 25-622, and never looked back - these are (expensive, but) AWESOME!


texts:
I'm an occasional biker. I bought a mountain bike (nothing fancy) with the idea that I might use it off-road or on mountain trails (of which there are many here in Calgary). However, since I've bought it I've done nothing but bike in the city on streets and paved bike trails.

Is there anything worth doing to my bike to convert it to something more suited to urban biking? In particular, the tires have me wondering; they have large rubber off-roading lugs that surely aren't doing me any favors on pavement. I'm not looking to spend a tons of money on a retrofit, but will do so if its worthwhile.


texts: Shimano Hydraulic brake 90-degree angle hack

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Does anybody know of a way to get Shimano Hydraulic brake hoses to exit the levers at a 90-degree angle?

I ride a recumbent and at the moment I have to put up with a huge loop in front of my eyeline to get them down the steerer. If it came out at 90 degrees, it would clip direct to the steerer, look neater and probably be a bit more aerodynamic.

Could I just fit the same connection as is used to enter the calipers?


texts: Bike tires only inflate up to 30psi with foot pump

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My bike has sat over the winter, and the tires went flat.  I used my foot pump to inflate the tires (front and back) and both tires inflated to 30 psi.  I have shraeder valves.  The pump continued to working with the same amount of resistance, but the psi on both tires would not go above 30. I am assuming that since the tires did inflate up to 30 psi, the valve connected, air is getting into the tire, and the pin is not stuck. Maybe I am wrong. Hoping someone else has had this issue and can share the fix.
Update. There is no sound of air escaping anywhere. I left the pump connected to the valve over night, and the psi did not decrease. The Gauge on the pump goes up to 100psi.


texts:
Last year I got a puncture in my tubeless tyre from a chunk of glass during a multi-day 500 mile ride (see photo below). The sealant did its job quickly and efficiently, and the seal has held without issue ever since (gotta love tubeless).

In subsequent discussions a few people have suggested that I should repair the hole as soon as possible. As I've not been doing big rides of that distance I've marked it down as something to consider doing when I change my sealant.

I'm going to be changing my sealant at some point in the next couple of weeks, so I'm trying to work out what the best way to perform a long-term repair is, to allow me to continue using my otherwise unblemished tyres significantly further into their life, if indeed I need to.

My options, as far as I can tell, are:

Using a tyre boot to reinforce that area of the tyre (I have a couple of ParkTool TB2 boots)
Using a plug-type repair kit to plug the hole
Using a glued tyre patch

So, my question is which of those (if any) is the "correct" way of doing it?

The tyre in question is a 700x35c Schwalbe Marathon Supreme TLE.


texts: Will 0.5mm gap/play in a seatpost shim work without cracking the seatpost tube?

texts: I have a Day 6 ebike; it's a large frame--the Samson model. The seat post (the frame member) is 31.4325mm or 1.2375 inches (I.D.) at the clamp collar. The seatpost (the seat support post) is likewise on the O.D. I would like to switch to a more comfortable seat, and the seats I'm looking at require the old-school seat clamp that bolts to a 7/8 inch end post atop the seat post. With me so far? These seat posts come in 25.4mm (1 inch) and 27.2mm (1-1/16 inch) seat posts (with the 7/8 inch seat mount at top). If I switch seat posts, I will need a seatpost shim; either 25.4mm to 30.9mm or 27.2mm to 30.9mm. There is no seatpost shim for my existing Day6 size: 31.4325mm--it is an odd ball. Here is the question: using either of these shims will leave a gap of 0.5325mm (31.4325 - 30.9mm = 0.5325mm)between the shim and seat post tube inner wall. The next size up, 31.6mm, is too large to fit. So, if I use a 30.9mm shim in my 31.4325mm seatpost tube, will I be able to tighten the seatpost collar/clamp without cracking the tube frame (aluminum alloy)? Anybody have experience with this? The ebike weights 54 lbs and I weigh 195 lbs. Thank you!!


texts: How tight should brakes and shifters be on the handlebars?

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How tight should handlebar components be?

Here it's said 6-8Nm. However, I don't own a torque wrench at that range.

Should the brake levers and commands be tight, or should they be able to twist, so that in the event of a crash, they do not break?


texts: Spokes go further inside rim than others

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Used all 184mm spokes, nipples screwed in equally just to cover the spoke thread, wheel is almost true, however some spokes go inside rim further than others!
Already tried to tighten them its same story they do not tighten at equal lengths (equal number of turns some spokes not tighten at all while others turn all the way).
Used same spoke length as this wheel was built with before i taken it apart and i put new hub that is exactly the same as old one.
This rim is very bad design - it has sharp inner wall and nipple hole is about 4mm thick so nipple fixed at 90 degree angle from the rim.

EDIT: I made it over and same issue, rim is trued and all spoke nipples are screwed just to cover the spoke thread.
Heads out spokes go inside rim too far.
I put all the heads out spokes first on both sides, then added heads in spokes on both sides.


texts: How to remove this Mavic spoke cover from the rear wheel?

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everybody
How do I remove this spline cover from the rear wheel? I'm trying to replace a spoke, but I can't do so because the cover is blocking the way. I've tried using a flathead screwdriver to push against the splines, employing a bottom bracket tool that had splines similar to the ones on the cover, and even prying the cover off, but nothing has worked. Do I need a special tool for this? I've looked up Mavic cog tools but have found nothing. This is on a Mavic Ksyrium SL wheel. This is the first time I've worked on a mavic wheel.


texts: inner tube to fit in a 26 X 1.5 bicycle tire

texts: I have a tire 26 X 1.5 what size tube should I buy for it?  As yet I have not tried tubes because I don't know what size to buy.


texts: Can’t seem to put the wheels back on the frame

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I’ve removed both wheels to do some deep cleaning. And even though, I’ve removed the wheels before I would immediately pop them back on without a problem. This time I left them out for a few weeks, and now can’t seem to put them back on. It’s a quick release , but the skewers only screw until a certain point, where the ribbed bit ends which is far less than the necessary to tighten the wheel to the frame.

I don’t think I’m missing any parts, so what basic step am I missing here? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me?

We don't own a van, the size of any "bike" is important as it will have to fit in a car.


texts:
Currently, I'm running on Claris 3x8 speed drivetrain. I'm planning to either upgrade the groupset or a carbon wheelset.

I dislike the groupset because of it's heavy and loud but usable but I want more gears in the rear.

I'm leaning towards carbon wheelset because it could save major weight and its more aerodynamic.

Any thoughts?


texts: How can I stop air leaks unscrewing a tire from compressor?

texts: Most portable car air compressors seem to have ditched the quick release attachment for Schrader valves in favor of a simple screw on attachment. Both of my bike's tubes leak a lot of air while I unscrew the compressor after filling them. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a secret to disconnecting a screw fitting without draining half the psi in the process? Why are there no quick release attachments any more?


texts: Shimano ST-EF51 (3x7) Shifter Compatible With Shimano 200GS (2x7) Groupset?

texts:
I have an old Montague Paratrooper Bi-Frame with a 2x7 Shimano 200GS and the shifters and brakes need replacing. Will the Shimano ST-EF51 3x7 work with the 200GS groupset?

Cheers,


texts:
What should you do if you find a bike that appears to be stolen? Should you turn it in or just leave it alone? Occasionally I'll see a bike that appears to be abandoned, which I assume to be stolen for a joyride then tossed. It's possible that the true owner just left it by the side of the road, but it's also possible that it was stolen and by reporting it to the police I can help the owner recover it.

This morning on my ride to work I saw a pretty nice looking cruiser tossed in the ditch. I decided to call the sheriff and the dispatcher who answered the phone basically said "What do you want me to do about it?" She said she'd send a deputy to pick it up, but pointed out that if the owner left if there, it would be gone when they came back. Based on the location and time of day, I really doubt the owner left it there. Still, she made me feel pretty dumb for just calling it in.

My thought is, what's the probability that the bike actually was stolen AND the owner reports it stolen and gets it back, vs. the probability that the owner just abandoned it in a weird place? Is it likely enough to be returned to the owner that it's worth turning it in, or am I just wasting everyone's time?

If my bike was stolen I would report it, but that doesn't mean everyone will. Also, if a bike was unlocked outside a business, or in someone's yard, I wouldn't assume that it's stolen. I'm talking about finding a nice bike ditched in a poorly lit area that's inconvenient to walk to, in a high-crime part of town.


texts: Using the outer lane of an inner-city one way system - where do I ride?

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In my nearest town centre there is a fearsome one-way system with three lanes of traffic. This cuts through the town and is unavoidable - you have to cross it to get anywhere. It is always busy but not at motorway speeds, even if it seems that way.

At one point, to get to the cycle lane I must get to the outside of the outer lane. I have a few options to do this. I could stop off at the near-side, wait an age for the traffic to stop for the pedestrians, walk my bike across the road with the pedestrians and get on it again at the other side. Since I am a cyclist I do not want to do this, it is a bit lame.

The alternative option is to get into the outermost lane and ride like I am a vehicle as wide as one of those tin boxes - 'vehicular cycling'. This I can do quite easily as I have enough in me to ride at a sensible, i.e. fast pace. I can then make it off onto the cycle lane without upsetting anyone, getting beeped at, hitting pedestrians or wasting time.

However, sometimes I ride with a friend that lacks the outright speed and acceleration needed for the outside lane. Shouting 'don't dawdle' isn't really going to work and I don't want to go-pedestrian just to cross the one-way system. We have tried going at the extreme outer edge so cars can pass - 'undertaking' - but this makes me feel uneasy. The car beeps are inevitable whatever we try on this section of the road, yet, when I ride the same section by myself with no company I never get any problems with any of the other road users.

I don't want to ride-like-a-timid-coward when with my friend, I don't want to upset motorists, I don't want to get involved in an accident. I don't want to complain about my friend lacking pace. I don't want my friend to always have a nightmare of a ride - when it should not be.

So how can I carry out this simple bit of cycling that suddenly seems intimidating when riding with someone?


texts: How can I tilt up a stem of my bike's handlebar which is held by two bolts?

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I bought a second hand hybrid bike and would like to adjust the stem of the handlebars such that I can ride it in a more upright position.

The following photo shows a side view of the stem with an arrow pointing in the direction I want to tilt it.

As you can see there is a hex bolt; a similar bolt is on the other side of the stem. I managed to loosen them on both sides (the bolt seen in the photo was very tough to turn), but could not get the stem to move.

What am I missing here?


texts:
My gut is telling me that this is a typo, but here's what I'm seeing.

I'm looking at the 2017 Rocky Mountain Element which seems to feature a chainstay that can range from 439-437mm.

For comparison, the 2017 Rocky Mountain Instinct, seem to feature a fixed chainstay length of 452mm.

For the other parts of the geometry that have a range, I get why for these as the suspension compresses and changes the value. However, I can't see how the chainstay would change in length in this case.


texts: We have a old bike with a small tire problem 26 590 is too loose and 26 584 is too tight so is there something in between?


texts:
I know that my bike has a 25.4 mm diameter seat post. So can I purchase any old 25.4 mm diameter seat post from eBay and expect it work with my existing bike seat? Here are some pictures of my existing seat post.

It appears that my bike seat has a little part that slips over the seat post .... I'm assuming that all I need to do is loosen the hex nuts on either side and the bike seat will let go of the old seat post and in the new one goes, right?

ETA: will this seat post work? Thinking of pulling the trigger on this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XLC-Bike-Bicycle-Seatpost-with-Clamp-350mm-NEW-25-4-mm-Black-/221504900980?pt=US_Seatposts&hash=item3392b88f74


texts: Is it safe to ride while taking mucinex (guaifenesin)?

texts:
I've been getting over a chest cold, most of the worst symptoms are gone (like the sinus headache and tiredness).  However, I tend to have a bit of congestion that hangs around for a couple weeks after the other symptoms clear up.

I found that mucinex (guaifenesin) seems to help me with this since it thins the mucous in the lungs.  Is it safe to take this to be more comfortable on longer rides?  Is there anything I should be careful of?


texts: Can I swap my 49cm fixie frame with a 47cm, with every other part fitting right on the new frame?

texts: I have a 6ku fixie, 49cm frame. There is not much clearance between the top tube and me. So I wanted to buy the 47cm and change all the parts on that one, instead of purchasing a whole new bike. Is that possible? I'm guessing it is, because it will be the 6ku just a smaller frame. I ride the 49cm okay, but I know it would be more comfortable if it was a 47cm.


texts: What different frame materials have been used?

texts:
In response to yet another frame materials question, I thought it might be useful to start with a more answerable question. One answer per material please, with an example of a bicycle frame using that material.
Please use the format I've used in my answer(s) to make it easy to compare materials.
I see no harm in having all 400+ steel alloys listed if someone wants to do that, but "steel" must specifically be low-grade mild steel rather than a specific alloy. Likewise for aluminium, titanium, magnesium and other metals.
For composites, including metal composites, I would again prefer specific examples with details (there's a big difference between steel reinforced concrete and kevlar/polyester composites). I would also love to see weird and wonderful bikes included.
Materials
(ie index to answers. Please update links as you add an answer):
Metals

Aluminum Bikes

Aluminum
Scandium - Aluminium alloy

Steel Bikes

Columbus Steel  (not written yet)
ChromeMoly Steel (not written yet)
Gaspipe Steel
Ishiwata Steel  (not written yet)
Kaisei Steel  (not written yet)
Mild Steel
Reynolds Steel (needs extension)
Tange Steel  (not written yet)
Vitus/Super Vitus Steel  (not written yet)

Titanium
Beryllium
Gold (pure)  (theoretical)
Magnesium (not written yet)

Organic

Bamboo
Bones
Wood Bikes

Carved Wood
Plywood (composite)
Wood (complete frame and bicycle)

Cardboard (not yet written)
(https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/44582/20060)**

Composites and Polymers

Carbon Fibre
Flax fiber (90% flax, 10% carbon)
Plastic

Layout Specific

Cables aka Tensegrity or Tensional Integrity
3D Printed (not yet written)


texts: What handling differences should I expect when moving from a bike to a Recumbent Trike?

texts:
I have been riding a normal bicycle, I just purchased a used Sun EZ-3 SX Delta Trike. I only have about a dozen miles on it on a few short trips.

There is an answer here indicating some of the issues common to the model. Some of the things I have noticed. I am not complaining, just wondering what else to expect, and how the model/style impacts handling.

Corner slower, you can't lean into them.
Power to the right rear tire, makes the trike steer left.
A bit of a wobble when coasting down hill, keep the speed under control
Comfortable seating
I can see where I am going without lifting my head unnaturally
You can go slow (or stop) without tipping over

There are obvious issues that are inherent in a bigger heavier unit, like transporting in a car, or peddling up hill.

What handling differences are inherent to all tricycles?  What are unique to specific designs?


texts: Trying to find Derailleur hanger for a custom road frame

texts:
Hi everyone, I'm trying to find out which derailleur hanger to order for this frame I was given. A friend at a local co-op had this frame lying around, and it needs a hanger before I can install a rear mech. Does anyone have any idea which style of hanger would fit? The one in this post: POST looks like a possibility, but the hook bit at the end looks like it points the wrong direction. If I strike out, I'll go to a local bike shop, but they'll charge an arm and a leg in New Zealand for that part, and from previous experience won't give me a part number or specific info about the hanger.

Cheers!


texts: Why does Fox specify to fix the lever in an upright position, on a Rhythm 34 fork that uses a Through-Axle?

texts:
I vaguely remember that "conventional wisdom" states that closed QR levers on MTB forks should point towards the back of the bike (see Which direction should QR lever point? or What is the proper position for quick-release levers?). However, I just saw that Fox
 specifies something different from the anwers to these questions in the manual of the Rhythm 34 thru-axle fork: "The closed lever position must be between 1-20 mm in front of the fork leg.", i.e. like this:

Out of curiosity: Why is this so? Would it be harmful in any way if I ride with the lever pointing backwards instead of upwards?

Source (image and quote): Fox manual https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/605-00-136-34-Tuning-Guide-revC.pdf


texts: How do I encourage fellow riders not to yell in residential areas early in the morning?

texts: How do I encourage fellow riders not to yell in residential areas during early morning rides?


texts: Can a normal bicycle be adapted as a draisine (to use on abandoned railways with the tracks in place)?

texts:
For a long time I've wanted to rent a draisine and ride it down an old abandoned railway.  There's dozens of places in Scandinavia where one can do so.

Source: Jonas Andréasson, Wikimedia Commons

Source: Dresinsykling på Flekkefjordbanen

Alternately, is it feasible to adapt an ordinary bicycle as a draisine?  Preferably in an easy way so I can ride to an abandoned railway, attach some stuff, and continue onto the railway.

Do any kits to easily convert a regular bicycle into a draisine exist?


texts: Derailleur tension causing chain friction?

texts:
I have a foldie which recently seemed a bit harder to pedal. Specifically back pedaling seems harder than it should be (if I kick the pedal back, it barely travels a quarter or half turn. I noticed that if I push the bottom jockey wheel up a little, reducing the tension on the wheel, the backpedal test results in 2-4 times as much travel. This problem is also only pronounced on the lower (bigger sprockets) gears. I recently detached and reattached the RD, to install a derailleur guard on the wheel, and subjectively it has seemed different from that time, though objectively I have checked a few times and it seems installed correctly. I also have a squeaky chain lately which I believe means it needs to be lubed, which I am going to do over the weekend.

TLDR: Does the dry chain explain why the back pedaling seems so bad? Is it a matter of lubing the RD jockey wheels? Or is it some other issue. I also see some rust on the RD springs, not sure if it has any effect.


texts: Can I use Rockshox RS1 with Mavic 15X110?

texts: can I use a Rock Shox RS-1 suspension with Mavic Crossmax Pro Carbon boost 15X110 wheel?


texts:
I've stumbled across this kickstarter project, which promotes an original shape for cranks:

They claim a wider arc of useful push during rotation. While their main point is rendered moot by clipping systems, I remain unsure about their claim in general.

Can these really have a positive impact on power/torque? Is there any risk due to increased stress on some body parts?


texts: I have an older trek 8500 aluminum bike with rigid forks and I would like to change them to be suspension forks. Is this possible? Btw the tire size is 26".


texts:
Are Shimano Octalink crank arms interchangeable between different model chainsets?

If so, which will fit my Deore FC-M510 hollowform chainset?


texts: What is a narrow wide chainring and what are its benefits and drawbacks?

texts:
What is a narrow wide chainring and what are it's benefits and drawbacks?
Also, is a specific chain or cassette required?


texts:
I am fixing this bike for a friend. The headset is wobbly. All the instructions I find online for how to tighten it stress loosening the stem bolts first, but this bike has none. Is that why, despite my tightening the top cap, it's still loose? If not, what could the problem be? Thank you in advance!

Photo here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1i8mJXnquoCLsji8


texts: Aerobar, why would carbon cost more than aluminum?

texts:
I think carbon parts are generally more expensive to their aluminum counterparts.
I'm perplexed because aluminum version is cheaper and weighs less too?
What am I missing?

Example:
Profile design sonic ergo 35a costs $160 and weighs 559g
https://profile-design.com/collections/aluminium-aerobars/products/sonic-ergo-35a
Profile design supersonic ergo 35c costs $245 and weighs 673g.
https://profile-design.com/collections/carbon-aerobars/products/supersonic-ergo-35c


texts: How to prevent my hub body from freezing?

texts:
In the winter, as soon as its gets a little bit below 0°C, after 10-15 minutes the body of my rear hub gets frozen. This means the pedals/chain do not have any grip anymore on the rear wheel, the pleasure is over, and the walking begins. Peeing over the cassette helps for another 15 minutes, seriously, but I only carry limited amounts.

I use my bike in summer and winter. And try to keep it clean with water and soap (no high-pressure). But it is stored in my garage, where temperature is just above freezing point.

Any tips from preventing it to freeze?


texts: Choosing the right wheel size in my cycle computer

texts:
I have bought the Campangolo Khamsin wheelset, and now I would like to set the right wheel size in my Trek Incist 8i cycle computer. Before I do the custom wheel setting, I would like to know what would be the best choice?

The wheel has ETRTO 622x15c printed on it.

The computer comes with the following wheel sizes defined:

700x20, 700x23, 700x25, 700x28, 700x32, 700x35, 700x38, 26x1.5, 26x1.5, 26x1.90, 26x1.95, 26x2.0, 26x2.1, 26x2.2.

So, if anyone here knows what would be the closest match I would be happy to know.


texts: Is there a cable-stop variant for the screw-in internal routing ports?

texts: On my frame the internal routing "ports", the things that are screwed into the frame with a small hex-head screw, have ingress/egress holes large enough for cable housing to pass through it.  Is there a variant of these screw-ins that has a cable-stop, so bare cable could be used?  A bare cable would be easier to install and a handful of small cable donuts would keep things quiet. Do these things have a name?


texts: Bicycle weight limit (carrying capacity) increase

texts:
I have a cheap 20" folding bicycle. Its specs say that the max rider weight is 105kg. The frame is steel (vaguely defined as "HiTen" steel).
I want to convert it to electric, so will be adding approximately 12kg more (mid motor, battery, etc.). I also want to carry panniers, let's say another 20 more kg. My weight is 100kg. So with some reserve, the bike needs to carry approximately 150kg of weight.
I assume that the weak point will not be the steel frame itself, but some components, like bearings, rim material, spokes and so on...
The question is: what components are recommended to change (in general) to get a more sturdy folding bike - i.e. which components have the greatest impact on the load capacity of the bicycle?
I assume that the exact type of bicycle is irrelevant, but let's say something like this.
Edit
Just found this article about the stress analysis of the folding frames. Really interesting reading. https://www.irjet.net/archives/V6/i10/IRJET-V6I10207.pdf


texts: How can I tell which road bike components/groupsets are better?

texts:
Shimano has new models of their groupsets every year but the lines generally keep the same names. This makes it difficult to figure out what year/version a particular bike has. Is there an easy way to figure this out and also determine which components/groupsets are better than others?

For instance, if I have Tiagra derailleurs from 2009 would they be better than Sora derailleurs from 2010 for a road bike?


texts: How do carbon fibre road bikes handle rough conditions?

texts:
I'm considering buying a entry level road bike for around 2000€.

I'll use it for commuting every day 20km and for long rides up to 150km.

I'll try to use an older bike when it rains, but I'll have to ride the new one sometimes. Also, on my longer rides, I can't always find a road and will have to ride on unpaved roads or even some gravel.

I'm interested in some models like the Bianchi Intenso Centaur 11v, Canyon CF SL 8.0, or Stevens Izoard Pro, and I'd change the tyres to Continental Gatorskin 700x28.

Will occasional rides in those conditions destroy such a bike? My worries are not so much about comfort, but losing such a lot of money because something gets broken if those bikes can't handle it.

I currently ride a steel single-speed bike with the mentioned tyres, and I haven't had big issues in over 4000km with some bad weather with a lot of unplanned unpaved and gravel roads.


texts: I have a set of Campagolo Athena 11 levels and the right one is slipping when changing down.  What is the problem and which part do I need to replace, please


texts: Confusion regarding the Shimano numering system

texts:
I have learned that the first couple of letters on a stamped Shimano part mean the part type e.g. FD - front derailleur, and the first digit indicates the series e.g.

M960 XTR/DCL 9s
M950 XTR 9s
M900 XTR 8s
M800 Saint 9s
M760 DeoreXT/DCL 9s
M750 DeoreXT 9s
M740 DeoreXT 8s
M700 DeoreXT 7s
M630 DeoreDX 7s
M580 DeoreLX/DCL 9s
M570 DeoreLX 9s
M560 DeoreLX 8s
M550 DeoreLX 7s
M520 Deore 9s
M510 Deore 8s

However, when I look at a couple of bikes, there is nothing similar:

FC-M191 is an Alivio crank arm, while the "1" should have indicated a Tourney
ST-EK70 and SL-M310 - those are both shifters, the first one with integrated brake lever. Why are the first two letters different? What is "EK"?
CS-HG30-8I - cogset marking - wtf!?

Ideally, I would appreciate a .pdf Shimano catalogue, the paper version of hich I have seen at the LBS. Alternatively, explaination about my listed parts would also be an answer.


texts:
Hi I recently purchased a Rayleigh Alpine 4.2 Shimano. I am having a bit of difficulty with assembling the bike. Would anyone be able to assist with fitting the handle bar. I have included pictures of the handle bar stem and the head tube. Thanks for any assistance let me know if any further info is required.

Pic 1 is the bottom of the handlebar with cap on. Pic 2 is the bottom of the handle bar without cap on. Pic 3 is the head set. [


texts: Checking spoke tension without specialized tools

texts: I have laced and trued my first wheel (YAY!) at home, while in the fork. It is fairly true (to the point I used to pay money for), but I am not sure if the spokes are tensioned properly (I guess it is possible to have ill-tensioned wheel which is true). How to check that? Also, if the spokes are tensioned OK on the whole, how to check if individual ones are off? Squeezing by hand doesn't show any noticeably looser ones.


texts:
I recently purchased a Bell Overpass 200. On the outside of the box it says, "Warning: User must secure bicycles to carrier with additional security cable, not included. See the enclosed owners manual for proper installation and use of your bike carrier." Four rubber straps are included, though not mentioned on the box. There is no owners manual included, just the setup and takedown instructions.

edit  This is a car boot-mounted bike carrier


texts: Change in setup to stop handlebars jack knifing

texts:
I picked up a new fat bike recently took it on the first ride, just some light trails felt good however during corners the bars feel like the want to collapse in towards the way I'm turning. Not sure if what part of the setup is causing this, but hoping to tweak setup to minimize this. Here are some of the things that came to mind.

Shorter Stem
layback seatpost (thou I feel this may make things worse)
Smaller tire up front (but that kinda goes again the laws of mtbing)

Anyone been able to rectify this problem? Cheers!

bike in question: https://www.za1e.com/index.php/product/northrock-xc00-fat-tire-mountain-bike/


texts: Correct clamped quick release lever direction

texts:
Which direction is the correct way for the QR lever to point when closed and why?

I have found both upwards and backwards on different parts on the SRAM website even for the same forks.

I have also been partial to many heated debates, in addition to being exposed to very opinionated bike mechanics’ views around this question.

Personally I prefer backwards, thinking that it has fewer snag opportunities and the aesthetics of the logo work better.

The rear axle potentially has even more view points.

I’m specifically interested in mountain biking. You see the forward clamp fairly often. Whilst neat, this tends to collect grass and shrubbery as you go.


texts: When is a good time to change tyres due to age?

texts: When should I consider changing tyres due to age? The tyres in question are five/six years old Continentals.


texts: how do you remove rear wheel on scott genius 920?

texts: It does not have quick release. You obviously unwind a lever on one side which unscrews the gear side from frame ... but once this is done there is no obvious way to me how to progress. All Scotts manuals ignore the issue making me think it is really simple (and I'm really stupid!) or has to go to the shop!!! unlikely


texts: Is it possible to convert a drop bar road bike with 2x7 Tourney brifters to flat bar using Tourney rapidfire shifters? I believe they only come in 3x7 variant, so is it posible to use that and just limit the front derailleur? Will this even be compatible?


texts: What to look for in bicycle travel cases

texts:
My wife and I are taking a trip to Japan in several months and that got me thinking, what should someone look for in a bike case when travelling? I won't be taking one on this trip (not in the shape I want to be in quite yet), but it could be beneficial information for others and myself in the future. The range of prices that bike cases span is pretty broad so knowing what to look for could potentially save you money and a broken bike.

Doing a little bit of research myself, I noticed that some airlines will also supply you with boxes for travel. Are these safe or is it worth getting your own?

Bicycling in a foreign country (or a different city for that matter) seems like an amazing way to see parts of it that you normally wouldn't get a chance to see.


texts: Road wheel conversion to single speed wheel

texts:
I am looking to upgrade the stock wheels on my canondale caad10 rival. It came with a Fulcrum racing set. I was interested in converting this set of wheels for use on my single speed - a surly steamroller with an eno freewheel.

I have seen several options including rebuilding the rear wheel to thread on a single speed hub or just adapting the current hub through spacers to achieve a proper chainline.

I'm searching for a safe, but reliable and cheap conversion. Would anyone have any tips or suggestions for going forward?

[UPADATE] Just to bring some closure, and thanks, I used the front wheel as-is and ended up having a rear wheel built at my LBS. Went in to discuss options and found out they were running a $5 (yes, that's right) labor special. Parts + $5 and I was off and running, or pedaling. Thanks for the assistance, everyone!


texts: Rear Cassette worn + needs replacing - what other components to replace?

texts:
I have picked up a bike (Specialized Allez) recently that has a very worn cassette from not replacing the chain for an extended period of time. Therefore am looking to change it. I was wondering what other components need to be replaced at the same time due to chain extension causing wear? My current list is:

Cassette
Chain
Chainring

Do I also need to replace the Rear Derailleur? And is the chainring required to be changed as well?


texts:
I have recently invested in an LED front lamp with a battery pack. The results are great, it's incredibly bright and I will feel much safer with it on my bike.

However, I don't want to blind or hinder any other road users with how bright it is.

Car headlights are brighter but angled in a specific way, what is the correct angling (roughly) for a bike front headlight to maximise visibility whilst not impairing other road users?


texts: Can the top tube on a mens bike be cut off?

texts: I want to cut the crossbar on a mens bike to make it easier to get on and off.  Will it damage the bike?


texts: I found this bike under our house we recently purchased. Wasn't able to find anything online and was wondering if anyone knows this type of bike? and if its worth fixing up for my son.


texts: Is using hand signals a legal requirement in the UK?

texts:
I am just starting to cycle on the road and I'm wondering if cyclists are legally required to use hand signals or if they are optional (i.e. recommended but you won't get into trouble if you don't use them).

Sometimes I am able to signal but other times I cannot signal without risking falling over. Is it OK to ride without signaling provided that I am careful about making sure that drivers understand my intentions in one way or another (e.g. slowing down, looking in a particular direction, moving across the lane or starting to turn) or do I have to stay off the road until I can signal more confidently?


texts: My rims are pretty old and I need help in buying a new ones. Can I use 26er rims for 26x1.95 tires?


texts: why does the lemond revolution turbo trainer quote its volume of air resistance in meter^2 and not per second cubed?

texts:
The Lemond revolution states that it creates consistent aero resistance with its fan power from 0 newtons to 40 newtons along one axis and 0 to 160 meters/second^2 on the other axis. Since air flow is normally measured in meters/second^3 why use the mentioned meters/second^2. I would happily concede I have missed something basic here.

Link to lemond revolution website:
http://greglemond.com/#!/revolution


texts: My bicycle currently has poor chainring/rear sprocket alignment (as in the chain at the front is more than a chain's width from the chain at the rear). I'm wondering what the procedure is to correct this alignment, because currently riding the bike damages the chain. (I have already moved the wheel as far across as i can using washers)


texts: I noticed my cornering confidence improves as my ride progresses (which seems be a little odd).  Is there some sort of cornering warm up routine I can perform before a ride to help be confident throughout?


texts:
I purchased a SCOTT Scale 710 Plus Bike yesterday.  For some reasons,  I am not going to stick with a plus tire. I plan to replace the current tires to smaller ones (maybe the 27.5x2.35). I do not know if it is possible. Will doing this cause any issue to the bike? Do I need to change the rims, hubs, etc.?
Someone please let me know! Thank you very much indeed!
Alex


texts: Which front and rear lights can run while charging?

texts:
I have a 52V battery pack on my krampus, which I use for commuting to work.  I plan on buying a DC-DC converter with two USB outputs to run headlight and taillight.  So my requirements are mostly to be seen, with flash and bright enough for city nights.  Any recommendations are very appreciated since documentation doesn't include the ability to light WHILE charging.  It might turn out  that I am forced to go with a dynamo style system substituting my battery pack and the converter for the Dynamo hub.
ps. On a budget.
Update: thanks for all the help everyone.
I decided to avoid the step-down dc/dc converter and  go with purchasing these...
***update 2: I improved things further with this new link; A bit expensive but the optical quality is high with sharp cut off. Perfect solution for direct-pack lighting.
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/lights/roxim-x4-ebike-light.html
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/lights/led8rb-jk.html


texts: Guidance for buying large double saddle panniers

texts:
I purchased a "Basil Mara XXL Double Pannier Bag"

Today, with a small load, they seemed to explode off and fly over the road. It appears that the stitching was meagre, which held the two straps to the panniers.

I could buy some belt strap material and use thick Nylon thread to repair and reinforce them, but doing this is time intensive I have found; I would prefer to attempt to return them and get new ones.

What advice can you give me on buying these saddled bags? Are some brands more sturdy than others or is it impossible to tell from brand alone? Street level shops I visited have a poor selection in London, these double panniers appear to be quite a rare breed - any good places to look? Recommendations?

edit

I used to use separate individual panniers, but they were small, whereas with larger panniers my heel will clip them. To get around this, unable to get a rack which extends back far enough, I attached the top section of an old rack onto my current rack:

So any saddled bag would be hanging 2 inches further back thanks to the extended rack space, and the angle means they are further clear of my feet. A bungee cord hooks over the straps of the pannier, then over/around the rear of the upper pannier to secure it.

Stronger strapped, large double panniers would be perfect - I find it a little too fiddly to deal with individual panniers


texts: How do I know the model of my Shimano Torney SIS Index Rear Derailleur, I have a Vertical Henox T3 bike?

texts: I had a vertical henox t3 bike which I hadn't ridden in a long time I changed gear and the derailleur bent into the wheel spokes and the derailleur is now bent and doesn't work properly. The derailleur is a shimano tourney sis index but I don't know the model. Can anyone help?


texts: Modification for cycling with one functioning hand

texts:
My dad loves cycling, however he has dystonia which reduces control of the muscles in his hands. He can still cycle, however this becomes very painful after a moderate period of time due to gripping the handlebars, and also reduces his control of the bikes movement.

An answer related to this question advises the use of a steering damper to help with stabilisation, however I was also wondering if anyone knew where I would be able to buy something like this:

My dads right arm is better than his left, and he still has control in his forearms, so if possible the device would allow him to steer using his forearms. Any help would be appreciated.


texts:
The brake cable is loose at the brake handle.  Can it be fixed?  The metal end of the cable has pulled out of the little device that screws into the lever.

thanks,

ed marshall


texts: What is it called when you ride around on your back wheel?

texts:
What's it called when you pull a wheelie and hold it while you ride around on just the back wheel?  I learned the term as a kid and I think it started with "c", but I could be wrong or the term could be wrong.  It's been bugging me ever since I found this site and went through the glossary and Wikipedia's.

Edit: I'm specifically looking for something to distinguish riding on the back wheel from  stopping on it (a manual).  Both involve pulling up the front wheel (a wheelie). shufler's answer captures this distinction, so I'm just looking for other words for it at this point.


texts: Can Presta valves suddenly lose pressure?

texts:
I was doing my usual 15 mile round, about mile or two to go, when suddenly I realised my front tyre had gone flat.  It has heavy duty, mountain bike style, valves.
I haven't been able to find a puncture, re-inflated the tyre and so far it's holding 40psi. I rode it for a couple of miles without any problems.  Could it be that the knurled collar came loose?


texts: What crankset should I buy to suit an 8 Speed Campy freehub?

texts:
I've just bought a pair of campagnolo/mavic wheels without a freewheel.
I'm finding it very hard to understand what will fit on the rear hub.

It's English thread, does this mean that any 8 speed freewheel will fit (as long as it is an English thread)?

Secondly, what rear derailleur will I have to use (if I buy a Shimano freewheel, can I use a 8 Speed campy derailleur, or does it have to match)?

Thirdly, will this influence what front cranks and chain wheel I get (If I buy a Shimano/Campy freewheel, will I have to get a matching crank/chainset combo)?

I'm trying to understand the whole crankset picture in one go!

Here's a link to the wheels:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170802467619?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1413

Many thanks in advance


texts:
I am considering making or buying a bike trailer.

It seems to me that the most important desision I need to make is whether to have a one wheeled bike trailer like the Bob or a two wheeled bike trailer.  It seems to me that both have their advantages.  Does anyone have any reason why one is preferable to the other?

One wheeled bike trailer (Bob trailer):

Two wheeled bike trailer:


texts: What should I look for when buying a smartphone handlebar mount?

texts:
I am not interested in a specific product recommendation in answer to this question (like the existing iPhone question), but rather the key attributes to consider when buying a smartphone mount. Please be detailed and specific when describing each attribute and the pros and cons of different choices. Two example attributes:

Mount held by twist ties or screws?
Is the mount universal or model specific?

For each attribute please indicate whether there are trade-offs between choices or whether you always want to go with one choice.


texts: Will this Retrospec Siddhartha bike suit my needs?

texts:
This is my first question on here so please take it easy :)

I will be relocating to Surrey (UK) in 2 weeks due to being offered a new job (as a software developer) and I am thinking of (finally) treating myself to a fixed-gear bike.

I usually drive to work due to the fact that the weather is usually quite rubbish where I currently live (UK - north west), and also due to the fact that I can't get to work all sweaty as I work in an office, but have cycled during the summer on a cheap "fat-tyre" bike and although it was very hard work I loved it.

I love bicycles and I have always wanted a bike that looks cool and that doesn't cost an arm and a leg - those that are +£300 are a no-no so I have come across the Restrospec Siddhartha fixie - however they only sell them in the USA (haven't yet found a UK dealer)

So I have three questions:

1- Will this bike be suitable for someone like myself that will use it to commute to work (around 15 miles roundtrip)  and go for rides whenever I feel like it and at weekends?

2- Do you know anyone selling this bike in the UK?

3- Could you recommend me similar style bikes (fixie) that have clean design and are <£200?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice


texts: Do brakes provide full power when used from the hoods?

texts:
I have been riding mountain bikes for over 20 years and am just going back to a road bike. I find the modern bars and hoods and combined levers a very strange position. I have actually loosened them and pushed levers further down bars to be more like a 60s or 70s brake position and redone the tape. I think perhaps I should have not done this and just got used to the modern position.

However, I am worried about braking. I was going down to the drop position to use the brakes and found this uncomfortable and a stretch. But I see some people use them with their hands on the hoods. Can you get full brake power in this position? Is it safe enough for going down big hills?


texts:
I have a Cannondale BadBoy with slick tyres, no suspension etc. On roads the ride is fine, but I do less of that these days and more along tracks (e.g. unmaintained paths, towpaths etc.). On non-metalled surfaces the ride is incredibly hard and I get incredible vibration through the forks and frames.

What are my options for modifying the bike so I can mitigate this. Will suspension forks soften the whole ride or just the vibration through the handlebars. My local bike shop recommended knobbly tires, a suspension-fitted seatpost and/or front suspension forks. Or should I just keep the bike for road use and get something more appropriate ?


texts: What is an equivalent or compatible chainring for this Deore XT "24-AM" chainring?

texts:
I have a 2012 Mountain Bike with Deore XT.  While troubleshooting chain suck on my inner chainring, I figured I'd order a new chainring and replace it. The chainring only has  "24-AM" on it.  However, I ordered the wrong one:

Shimano XT FC-M8000 Double Chainring
24T, For 34-24T
ITEM #CG195A04

The holes didn't line up.  So I cleaned the old one and put it back on.

But which one should I be ordering?  My searches are returning the incorrect chainring that I ordered.  Does anyone know the specific part number I should be ordering?


texts:
I like my Vanmoof B5, but one thing I find very poor is the braking performance. The bike comes stock with 140mm rotors and no-brand mechanical brakes.

I thought I'd upgrade the brakes, going quite a bit overkill for a commuter bike, purchasing a Shimano 180mm rotor for the front and Shimano SLX hydraulic brakes. With this kit, I also purchased a SM-MAF180 disc brake adapter.

How ever, when I mount the rotor and the adapter, the rotor still appears to be approx. 20 mm "too big".

Below is an image of the stock setup.

Does this fork have a non standard post mount, or have I just purchased the wrong adapter?


texts: What tool do I need in order to remove these pedals?

texts:
I own this set of HT pedals. They were attached by a mechanic at a bike shop. I'd like to avoid a return trip and remove them myself.
Most articles I've found about removing bike pedals mention a tool called a pedal wrench or pedal spanner. However it's not clear if that's what I need in my case: it's not immediately obvious to me that my pedals have the requisite surface for that tool to grip. Most of the how-to articles mention, as a secondary option, that some pedals are removed via a hex wrench. I'm currently inclined to think this is the correct solution in my case: I can see a spot on the opposite side of the crank arms from the pedals that looks like it'd fit a hex wrench. But I can't confirm this and HT's website is completely unhelpful.
Which tool do I buy? And If I do in fact need a hex key, which size should it be?


texts: Do softer tires provide better suspension?

texts:
From my limited experience, soft tires feel more bouncy than hard ones, with same pressure. That is, if you lift and drop front side of unloaded bike, with soft rubber on front wheel it will jump like a bouncy ball (kind of). But with hard rubber it'll jump more like badly inflated football/basketball (at low pressure) or like a sack of potatoes (at high pressure).

Other things being equal (size, tread, pressure), do you think soft rubber tire will provide better suspension than hard rubber?

EDIT: made a test with Schwalbe CX Comp (soft) vs some Vee Rubber harder compound tire (same width) - dropped front side of unloaded bike from a small height. CX Comp definitely feels more bouncy and jumps more silently. But actually maybe they bounce with same rebound, since it's hard to measure precisely.


texts:
Many years ago I bought a 100 pack of REMA round patches from Amazon.  And back then you could buy patch kits for $1 that had a few patches, something abrasive to sand with, and a tiny tube of vulcanizing glue.
It wasn't a good idea (in my experience) to buy anything bigger than a tiny tube of vulcanizing glue (unless you patch many tubes at a time) since the whole thing usually dried up after being exposed to air.
So nowadays you can't find those patch kits as cheap as $1 anymore and I'm noticing that places like Wal-Mart can sell inner tubes for as cheap as less than $5.
So unless anyone knows a good source of where to buy those tiny tubes of vulcanizing glue, I'm thinking it's just more cost-effective (and trouble-free) to just go w/ new inner tubes instead of patching.
What do you guys think?


texts: Modifications and changes to 2011 Specialized BigHit, anyone done these?

texts:
I am looking to go from 36 tooth front ring to 32 or smaller.., possibly 30. The 2011 BigHit comes with 36 tooth front ring and medium cage rear derailleur stock.  Has anyone made this change?  Will a change to long cage be necessary for 32 tooth front?

Also looking at putting in a 8.5 Fox air Ava shock for rear to get weight down..  bad idea?  I'm pretty old so a lot of air time is not in my resume but I do like hitting some speed in downhill.

I made the rims tubless with gorilla tape and slime/latex sauce mixture, but I don't think that saved too much weight. The BigHit is 40lbs on the nose now and would like to get it to 36lbs if possible.

Suggestions or remedies you have done would be helpful. Thanks, Henry


texts: I would need to replace my derailleurs and I would like to upgrade both front and back.  Front is triple 30, 40, 50 and rear is 13 throught 30.  Both are Shimano Altus A10  with Rapidfire Plus shifters.  What would you recommend?


texts: My chain broke today and I want to get a new replacement for it I just don't know what size I need my bike has 3 gears in front and 6 in the back which I'm guessing is an 18 speed and if you can leave any suggestions for a chain I will appreciate it preferably under $30 I just commute to school.


texts: How to position a bike for work without a stand

texts:
I want to tweak my gears, from time to time: Adjust my front and rear derailleur limits, see if the shifts are smooth, make small adjustments on the cable tension, and so on.

Is there any way to get the bike in position without help of anyone?

I don't want to spend money on a bike stand.


texts: How can I mount my phone and my battery pack to my bike?

texts:
On long bike rides, my phone dies often. Is there any way I can mount my phone, a galaxy s5, and my battery pack, pictured, to my bike? I'd say that mounting to the handlebars would be ideal, but I'm open to suggestions.

Battery pack is a "Fremo P130"


texts: Why do you think I nearly fell on this turn?

texts: I was riding my new Scott road bike yesterday and I nearly took a terrible fall.  The pavement was wet and there was a curve.  I was riding approximately 15 mph and I braked with the rear brake.  As I applied the brake the rear tire nearly spun out from under the bike.  Do you know what I did wrong?


texts: Are HV/HP switchable pumps as capable as a specific HP or HV pump?

texts:
There are generally two big specialties for pumps. High Pressure (HP) or High Volume (HV). I ride Fat bikes, mountain bikes and road bikes, so I'm confused about buying a new pump to carry while on rides and whether I could find one pump to rule them all?

I know there are good pumps that do high pressure and others that do high volume. However, there are several that claim to be switchable between HP or HV.

How effective is this?

Will it be as effective as a dedicated HV pump on my fat bike tires? Will it also be able to put 110 lbs of pressure in my road bike tires as efficiently as a HP pump? Or are these a compromise that kind of works, but less than a purpose made HV or HP pump?

Examples of switchable pumps:
Giant Control Mini Combo Pump
Blackburn Mammoth Mini Pump
Raleigh RMJ604 2 Stage Switchable Pump


texts: How much does the price of a new bicycle drop a year after buying it?

texts:
I'm planning to buy a bicycle "on a budget" (I'm sure yet if I should buy a new or an old one). But since I'm going to use for just a year, I'm wondering how much I'm going to sell it for next year (how much I'm going to lose in it purchase price)?

I don't know if what they say about cars (that you lose 20% of a new car's value after owning it for a year according to Car Depreciation: How Much Have You Lost?) applies also to bicycles.


texts:
I've got a bike that I have had for about 8 weeks and it has already been back to be serviced twice. It's just returned from the second service and I've noticed that it is not shifting from 14th to 7th gear - 2nd at the front and low gear at the back to low at the front and low at the back.

If I change down to 12th or 10th it will comfortably change down to the low gear at the front. Is this a common problem or should I get it looked at again?


texts: Recommendations for low-maintenance "town" bike

texts:
I have a short cycle to work and back every day (under 30mins each way.) Because I could quite feasibly walk the journey, I've always wanted a bike that needs as little tinkering with as possible, as if I have to do much of that, I may as well just walk. I also much prefer the traditional "sit up and beg" riding position, because I find for my kind of cycling, performance is unimportant and I would rather be comfortable.

I currently have a Sparta Atlas (Dutch bike), which is almost perfect. 7-speed hub gear / brakes / dynamo hub, enclosed chain, and I've fitted it with LED lights and Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres that seem unpuncturable.

However, where it is not perfect is (a) it is very heavy, I think mainly due to the 7-speed hub, (b) it seems to get through bottom brackets very fast. First one went after two years, and the second one I think is about to go. But worse, last time I found it hard to track down the part in the UK. The shop I bought it from (Cambridge Station Cycles) no longer deal with Sparta, and I tried various other local bike shops who said they couldn't get it. In the end, I got an electric bike dealer to order the part, which I then took to another shop to have fitted!

I am wondering if it is time to get something else, because we are about to move to Birmingham, and am figuring if I struggle to find these parts in Cambridge I may struggle a lot more in other places. Also, the heaviness of the bike is not an issue here where it is very flat, but may become more of an issue depending where exactly we move to.

But I cannot justify spending lots of money when I will probably still only have a short commute. So I could just get the Sparta fixed and see how it goes - or I could try and find something second-hand to replace it with. I thought about an old British 3-speeder perhaps. Or I did once try a Giant Expression N3 and liked it, but not sure if either of these options would be any more hardy than the Sparta in the long run (which, when it comes down to it, is a good bike, just seems to have an achillies heel.)

Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks in advance.


texts: Shimano Tourney "Rapid Rise" Rear Derailleur Installation

texts:
I'm trying to set up an old mountain bike that has a Shimano Tourney "Rapid Rise" rear derailleur which appears to operate in the opposite direction to the Shimano Acera derailleur on my own hybrid-style bike.
When changing the gear cable on my own bike, what I do (before pushing the new cable taut through the derailleur and tightening the bolt) is put the chain on the smallest cog and put the Rapidfire gear shifter on number 1.
This doesn't seem to be the correct way to do it with the Rapid Rise derailleur. Could anyone tell me:
Before tightening the cable to the Rapid Rise derailleur, what cog the chain should be on and what number the Rapidfire shifter should be on.

EDIT Thanks for the answers. Just to be sure, should the chain be on the largest sprocket when I do this?

Update: I followed Argenti's instructions (with the chain on the largest sprocket) and that seems to have worked. I can shift through the 7 cogs fairly smoothly and just need to fine tune it now.


texts: I've just changed a worn out cassette on my road bike (SRAM 8 speed 12-26T) and replaced it with a Shimano 12-25T 8 speed cassette.  Now it looks like my gear shifting doesn't work.  I can't get into the lowest gear, and there's a clicking sound when I try.  I know almost nothing about derailleurs.  What is my best option now?


texts: Disc brakes and single walled rims - is there something to worry about?

texts:
I know that the physics of disc brakes are different than rim brakes, but the differences are not intuitive to me so I want to double-check this. I understand that one fail point of single walled rims is the spoke hole; that they are prone to cracking. Will this tendency be exacerbated by a disc brake (compared to a rim brake)?

FWIW, this is the front wheel I am thinking of.

EDIT: if the answer to the question is no, what do I do with the various yes answers that I find? For example from Park Tool's website:

  A similar torsion or twisting load is applied through the spokes by
  rotor disc braking.... The rim caliper brakes, however, do not apply
  braking force through the spokes in the same way.
  http://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins-corner/wheel-tension-balance-web-app

Am I confusing the discussion of load with the forces that cause a spoke nipple to crack the rim at the hole? Or is it, as @Rider_X says, that the forces are different but the differences are negligible?


texts:
My mother is 60+ years old and 200+ lbs.  She never learned to ride a bicycle, so she rides a Schwinn Town & Country adult tricycle.  She loves it and rides it everyday, 2-5 miles everyday.  The spokes on the rear right wheel keep breaking.  In the past year, since she's had the trike, she must have had 5-10 spokes replaced. The right wheel is also the "Drive" wheel, and the only wheel giving her problems.  Could it be a shoddy wheel? a bad wheel builder?

What could be done to fix this?  Stronger spokes? Replace the whole wheel for a new one?

I need help and I'm officially out of ideas...


texts: Could anyone help me resolve the differences between these two BMX bikes?

texts:
I'm deciding between those two bikes and since I'm not a pro, I cannot spot many differences. I was hoping you guys could help me out.

One notable difference I know of is that Mongoose Capture 11 has more rims than its competitor, I hope that's a good fact, right?

Mongoose Capture 2011 specifications:

Frame:  Full Hi-Ten
Fork:   Full Hi-Ten
Crank:  3pc Tubular Cromo, 170mm,33T steel chainring
Bottom Bracket:     Mid Sealed Bearing8 spline
Speeds:     1 Speed
Cog Set:    Odyssey 13t freewheel
Wheels Size:    20"
Rims:   Alloy 36H front, 48H rear
Hubs:   36H Steel, 3/8" axle
Tires:  Innova (F&R) 2.125
Pedals:     Mongoose Nylon Fiber
Brake:  Pro Rush with Pipeline cable
Handlebar:  Mongoose Hi-ten 7.5"
Stem:   Mongoose Front Load50mm Ext.
Headset:    1-1/8" Ahead
Brake Levers:   Rush RX402 hinged
Spokes:     ED Black Steel
Grips:  Mongoose Kraton
Saddle:     Mongoose Slim
Seat Post:  25.4 straight steel
Seat Clamp:     Alloy single bolt slim
Extras:     1 pair axle pegs

GT Slammer 2011 specifications:

Type of Frame   GT freestyle design, Steel tubes, DT gusset, American BB, seat stay mounted U-brake, GYRO cable guides
Fork    GT freestyle design, hi-ten 1-1/8" steer, 31.8mm hi-ten blades, 6mmT. Dropouts
Crankset Chainwheel     Forged steel one piece crank, 170mm / 33T steel GT design
Bottom Bracket  American loose ball type
Cog Set     DNP 13T. Cr-mo
Chain   KMC Z510
Rims    Alex G303, pinned aluminum, 32F/36R hole
Front Hub   Steel body, 3/8" heat treated axle, 32 hole
Rear Hub    Steel body, 14mm hi-carbon axle, 36 hole, single FW threads
Spokes  14G
Nipples     Brass
Tires   GT Air Bags, 2.1"
Pedals  GT Jump design, PP material
Front Brake     Rush 900D, aluminum Caliper
Rear Brake  Rush 933D, aluminum U-brake
Brake Levers    Tektro 289A full aluminum lever and clamp
Handlebar   GT dirt/street Steel, 7" rise
Stem    GT freestyle drop design, machined GT logo
Headset     1-1/8" threadless, steel
Grips   GT Wing shroom design
Saddle  GT Slim mini street design, 8mm rails
Seat Post   Steel, 25.4mm x 200mmL.
Seat Clamp  Alloy Single bolt
Extras  SST ORYG, one pair GT 36mm OD x 97mm forged steel pegs

UPDATE

After what @mathew suggests, I have found 2 other competitors:

GT Performer 2011 for $369, of which the description says:

Type of Frame   GT Freestyle Design Frame with Cr-mo main tubes, machined 1-1/8" headtube, 19mm CS, DT gusset, Mid BB, seat stay mounted U-brake, and GYRO cable guides
Fork    GT freestyle design, Cr-Mo 1-1/8" steer, 31.8mm hi-ten blades, 6mmT. Dropouts
Crankset Chainwheel     GT tubular Cr-Mo 3pc., 8T spline, single bolt clamping, 175mm / 25T steel GT design
Bottom Bracket  Mid size sealed bearings, 8 spline Cr-Mo axle

Versus Mongoose Article 2011 for $329, which has:

Frame:  CromoFront Triangle
Fork:   Cromo Steerer
Crank:  3pc Tubular Cromo, 175mm,25T steel chainring

Is any of these latter two better/worse, or are they the same?


texts: Alternative for Schwalbe Kojak 35-584 tire

texts: I bought a Canyon Commuter 7.0 bike. It has 27.5 inch DT SWISS XR331 rims and Kojak 35-584 tires. It seems as if Schwalbe is the only manufacturer having a 35-584 sport tire. Do you know of any alternative for this tire that will fit my wheels?


texts: How to remove a stuck SRAM AXS (Dub) crankset

texts:
I wanted to remove my relatively new SRAM RED eTap AXS crankset from my bike and I'm having problems trying to loosen (meaning: being unable to) the main 8mm hex bolt on the drive side, the step shown here and here (they are using/showing Force / Rival cranksets but it's the same for the AXS one).

Now the crankset has been on the bike / bottom bracket for maybe.. 2-3 months, at most. I tightened it down originally to 54Nm as specified on the outer lock ring with a torque wrench but now, no matter how hard I try rotating the bolt in the other, counter-clockwise direction... it doesn't move one bit.

I have tried using a 30cm lever and also a 60cm lever without success.

Is there any tip, particularly 'good' or efficient way to do this? I tried it in the bike stand trying to hold the crank arm/pedal at 3 o'clock position while the wrench being on the 9 o'-clock position and nothing, the other way around (hold the pedal) and nothing and maybe someone simply knows from experience what's the best way to do this without going too crazy.


texts: What did I just do? Fluid shot out of my handlebar when pushing my caliper in

texts:
I just bought a new road bike with hydraulic disc brakes, using a Shimano Ultegra R8020 Groupset. The pad was rubbing on the rear rotor and it wouldn't recenter when pumping the brake. The brake lever was also very tight at the time (much more than the front lever).

I took the wheel off and tried to press the piston in but I must have pressed too hard because it went in all of a sudden and fluid squirted out of my break lever (under the hood). The brake lever is now very loose and has about 5% braking power.

I assume I broke some seal or something... Any ideas on WTF I just did?

Info from repair:

The LBS said I pushed out a valve or plug - They said on some MTB systems there is a one-way valve that will deal with this, in case there is too much pressure, but the system I have lacks it. It was a simple fix, they pulled the plug, cleaned it, bled the line and replace the plug.


texts:
I just got this frame for a few bucks and I wonder if it is from a known manufacturer or not. I often find bikes with similar design aspects, but not this frame. There was also a Marzocchi 55 ETA from 2008 sitting in there, so I guess the frame has a similar age.

Edit: Assembled bike, after a paint job.


texts:
I went to REI yesterday because my bottom bracket was creaking.  I brought my bike with me so I could get the right tools to take it off, but while I was there the mechanic actually took the crankshaft apart, cleaned, and lubed everything for me (I guess it was a slow day).  He also checked my chain with a little gauge and said that it's more than 100% worn.  He said that it is so worn out that my back set of sprockets could be damaged from it.

The mechanic said that I should replace my chain every 2000 miles.  I have been using my current one for about 3000.  Is 2000 miles a good distance to replace a chain?  (I've never had this problem on my mountain bike.  I always replace the chain every summer because of rusting.  I didn't even know that it could actually wear itself out.)

I went home and ordered this chain on eBay.  If I put it on my bike and my sprockets are indeed worn out will it wear out my new chain quickly?  How will I know if I should replace the back COG?

Thank you.

PS: The chain I ordered has a Titanium coating, does that mean it will last longer than a "normal" chain, or is it just advertising?  KMC says it can last "up to" 10k miles, is that true?  Does anyone have any opinions of KMC chains?

Also, this is my first road bike, and I don't know too much about them.  I got it for my birthday for commuting to school (and work in the summer).


texts:
I've been riding with my very short seat post extended well past its maximum extension line for quite a while now. Looking at the seat post itself I don't see any signs of deformation or damage other than some very minor surface rust.

Could my bike frame have been damaged? Could the lever force have damaged the frame? I can post some pictures of the frame if needed. My bike is all aluminum.


texts: Wheel building for n360 + disc brakes on H Plus Son 700c, 36h

texts:
I'm working on building a couple of wheels for a road/commuter bike. This is my first wheel building endeavor. I have:

2 H Plus Son 700c, 36 hole wheels
A Nuvinci n360, 2012 model
A set of TRP Hylex Hydraulic Disc Brakes

I need:

A front disc hub
Spokes
Spoke nipples

Here are my questions:

What length of spokes will I need? Is there a spoke length calculator out there that actually works?
Any tips for me at I go through my first wheel build?

Thanks!


texts: Is it possible to change the lengths of bike cranks?

texts:
ive had debilitating arthritis since I was five and whilst I was younger I enjoyed riding a bike. Unfortunately due to degradation of my hip and lower back joints I am unable to use bikes with long cranks as my hips and back don't allow for the upwards movement.

There is some rotation and upward movement within my hips and back still - I'm able to climb stairs just about for instance.

As I say, would it be possible to adjust the crank length? Would this need to be specialist or would my local second hand dealer be able to do this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks


texts: What are the positions on drop bars called?

texts: I've heard the different places to put your hands on drop bars given different names, like "hoods" which I think is the flat part on top or maybe the brake levers, or "drops", referring to the lowest part of the bars.  Can anyone tell me what the actual names of places to put your hands are?


texts: May I ignore the frame damage (or should I get a budget carbon frame)

texts:
I was happily using my Canonndale F5 Hardtail to commute to work and other places (like shopping, going to a swimming pool and the like) until recently I had a very unfortunate accident with a car. To make a story short, I managed to slightly bent the fork and the frame, where the derailleur is mounted. I would not notice the bent except that I was not able to adjust the gears, if this did not go through the insurance (which demanded a full inspection of the bike). See the pictures below.

The official examiner of the bike dramatically concluded that the bike is unusable. This increased the amount of money I could from the insurance, but the real question is how bad it is? Should I really dump the frame and look for another frame? Or I could try to bent the frame back? (I'll have to replace the fork for sure anyway).

How should one look for a budget frame (are there any types that one should try to avoid?) Being a naive browser I type 'carbon frame' in ebay and being left with hundreds of results. Can someone comment on MUSING X Lite Offroad Mountainbike Frame weighting 1350-grams?

Ultimately I am looking for an inexpensive frame/bike. Key optimization criteria here is the safety feel that one gets during lengthy working, shopping, and swimming hours (i.e., when the bike is being locked outside, passed by some questionnable crowed..). I commute some 10-20km every day.


texts: Octalink v2 bottom bracket on italian shell

texts:
I'm re-building an old Italian Bottecchia mountain bike which has Italian BB shell (70mm) and the previous bottom bracket was a square taper with 130mm spindle (measurement confirmed via calipers.)

I taken from an old Specialized (68mm shell) a Shimano fc-m341 crankset that I want to install in my new bike. That crankset was mounted with a shimano es-25 121 mm long.

My question is: which octalink v2 bottom bracket should I buy to fit my crankset on my project? I know I need an Italian threaded BB, but should I buy a 130mm, 121mm or 118mm spindle?

Due to the wider shell, I don't know if I have to buy a 130 mm as the previous square taper was, or a different size.


texts: (Dis-)Advantage of 2 chainrings / 3 chainrings

texts:
I think about buying a new mountainbike when sale is starting.

Now my Problem is that my favorite mountainbike has only 2 chainrings with 36/26 teeth. I am used to ride with 3 chainrings and don't know if it's too hard for me to ride or if it feels like "some gears are missing" if there is one chainring less.
I am just a hobby cyclist, I love to do some tours an evening rides, but just for fun.

Maybe someone can explain advantages and disadvantages of 2 vs 3 chainrings.


texts: Replacing crankset on early-'70s Motobecane 10-speed

texts:
I need a replacement crankset for my Motobecane Nomade 10-speed road bike (early '70s model), but am not quite sure what I even have at the moment and, once I know what I can use to replace it with, I still don't know where I could find it. Can someone help me with either of these two tasks?

Bottom bracket

I know that when I bought the bike, the seller had replaced the bottom bracket because the one it previously had was bad, but I'm not sure with what sort of bottom bracket he replaced it (e.g. French vs. Swiss vs. modern).

Crankset specifications

I was told by a mechanic that's a double crankset with 52/39 teeth for a square bottom bracket and an 8-speed chain (I think so?-- could this be right?).


texts: How should I tie a bike to a hitch mounted bike rack to keep it from swaying into the bumper of my vehicle?

texts:
I have a couple bike(shaped object)s I'd like to transport to the local state park for fun in the sun in a few weeks. I'm looking at a number of hitch mounted bike racks for my vehicle. It's pretty obvious how to use the rack (general example pictured below), however I can see the bike swaying along the front-to-back of the vehicle axis, potentially rubbing the wheels or handlebar against my vehicle. I've considered a handful of solutions, but was wondering what (if any) other options there are.
1.) Tie the bike to the vertical rack tube wherever it fits, this way the bike is held firm, but it is not straight up and down. This puts the wheel very close to the bumper, so there is less tolerance for any sway before tire-to-paint contact occurs.
2.) Weld an additional support perpendicular to the vertical tube halfway up which I can tie to the bikes to using the downtubes. This way the bikes remain more or less vertical. The downside is that I have to weld something, and I'm lazy.
Are there other solutions to this problem? I understand the bikes are quite heavy and tied on the top tube so the center of gravity helps reduce sway, but I also understand I'm very fond of my vehicles paint job and would hate to have a bike tire rubbing on it for 200 miles without me noticing.


texts: Does the perfect air pressure is related to the performance of bikes? If yes, what is the exact amount of pressure required on MTB, Hybrid, City Bikes and BMX?


texts:
I have just bought a new bike and had it about a month now. I don't really know much about bikes but I do know how to repair an inner tube.

I have had one puncture and just bought a new inner tube. It worked for a few days and then went down again so this time I got a puncture repair kit. I took the inner tube out to check for any punctures and found nothing. I put it in water and pumped it up and there were no bubbles. I went around the entire tube pushing it next to my ear and heard nothing. I checked the tire to see if anything was wrong - there was nothing that I could see.

So I put it all back together and took it for a ride and got about half a mile and the tire was flat. I pumped it up and got about another half a mile and it was flat again.

Do you have any suggestions for me?


texts: Can I use friction shifters with a clutch style rear derailleur?

texts: Can I use friction shifters with a clutch style rear derailleur like the 2014 Shimano Deore M615 Shadow Plus?  Or does this put extra tension on the shift cable that will cause slips with a friction setup?


texts: Is it fine to clean bearings with gasoline?

texts:
I've been searching all over the web about washing bearings with Gasoline (and other gas products like desiel and kerosene). I've found some mixed answers. Some say it's good some say it isn't.
I want to remove dirt inside my bearings. (we don't have roads so it would always get dirty even it is shielded) And I know soaking it in a container filled with gasoline with remove those. But is it alright?
Won't it damage my bearing in some way?

I don't have access to any cleaning substance because I live in the forests of the Philippines.


texts: Keeping your feet dry (or do you not even care?)

texts:
I've finally gotten to the nirvana-like level of not caring if it's raining / snowing etc when I ride. While this is great from a biking perspective I still end up with wet feet / socks. While this is unlikely to kill me or make me especially unhappy (after all, I still got out riding...) I was wondering of anyone else had a clever solution for wet feet. When I'm riding with booties in the winter it's not a problem, but this isn't going to work in the other three seasons (too hot).

I have seem folks wrap their feet in plastic baggies (too hot, and you need to wrap your head in aluminum foil to get the full look) and had others suggest sock material that won't lose insulating qualities when wet (unfortunately, can't fit either my road or mountain shoes over any of my wool socks). Are there thinner wool socks that could work for mid fall / early spring? How about silk / lycra liners?


texts:
a 1 1/8” Aluminum, 1.5 Taper Steerer will it fit on my frame?
 My frame is gt chucker 3.0 26er and the fork is manitou minute 26er [enter image description here][1]


texts: Shimano Sora: switching cassette from 11-32 to 11-34

texts:
I have a Triban RC500, about 8 months old. I want to add a lower gear below 32T. Is it possible to swicth the cassette? will I need a new chain?
I am not an experienced bike maintenance guy, but want to know feasibility of

doing this
whether I should take this to my local bike shop


texts:
I have Dura Ace set up with an Ultegra CS6800 12-28 cassette. I want to alter to 12-32 but the CS6800 isn't available anymore.

Is the R8000 a suitable replacement and what else would I need to complete the upgrade?


texts:
Due to (understandably) large wear after 16 years of usage, I wanted to replace sprocket, chainwheel and chain on my byke.

With my surprise the workshop where I took my byke was not able to find a spare for the sprocket, a 6 speed Maillard, and told that in the Netherlands they are pretty rare. They tried to install a 6 speed Shimano but it did not fit.

I did also a quick search on some spare parts dealers in Italy, and also they didn't have it.

Is it really that rare, or I have been simply out of luck?


texts:
I just purchased a used bike recently and I am curious to the make of my handlebar stem.
Would anyone be able to identify the brand logo?


texts:
Im planning to build a gravel bike and I already have the following:

Flared Drop bar
Tiagra STI R7000
10S Deore M4100 Sprocket 11-42
700c Rims
Marin Alps Series Frame

What other components should I buy so that it wouldnt have any problem if I put it in all to my frame?
Im stuck with what RD and Hub should I buy so that it will be compatible to what I already have.
Thank you for your answers!


texts:
For example this (rather expensive) item: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-srm-powermeter-pro-wireless-bb30-double-chainset/

What is actually wireless about it? Is this for a cadence meter? Wireless shifting?


texts: Knees touching rib cage when riding in the drops

texts:
A few weeks ago I got a used road bike, my first bike to have proper drops. I don't have previous experience with riding in the drops. I enjoy it a lot so far.
One thing I did however notice was that when I do, my quads and knees seem to touch my rib cage. Is this a problem / is there a way to tweak things so this does not happen? Or is it normal and/or fine as long as it doesn't cause problems? I guess it means I can't easily get more aero however for more of a hobby rider like me that is not that much of a concern.


texts: Should I change my chain? It broke once, but its condition seems rather good

texts:
Expanding a bit on the title, I ride a 27.5" KTM Peak XT with a 3x10 setup. The chain I'm currently using is of unknown provenience (it was already there when I bought the bike, and it wasn't new). It's been almost one full year with me, probably around 6-7 months with the previous owner and it was never changed.

The chain broke once, but I replaced the broken link with a quick release link and it worked well from that point on. I'm always carrying a QR link with me since that day, in case bad things happen while on track.

Having this said, I am wondering whether or not I should replace my chain ASAP or it's just a normal thing for chains to be reliable for this long.

Also, how often should this (change the chain) happen?

Thanks!


texts: RevoShift Friction: shifting to the largest gear takes a lot of force?

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My wife's bicycle has Shimano Revoshift shifters, and while the right (rear) one works fine, the left (front, Friction) has been problematic for a while. Originally, when we bought the bicycle, the left shifter made a clicking sound when it was turned. After a while, it stopped clicking, and since last summer, it has required tons of force to shift from the middle gear to the biggest gear.

I've tried to adjust the front derailleur (orientation, height) and the low and high limits, as well as the cable tightness, but nothing seems to remedy the force. This morning, I took the shifter apart, suspecting that something would be broken inside it, but everything seemed OK. I put it back together, but it still doesn't click and I have to use both hands to turn the lever to get it to the biggest gear.

I suspect that there's still something wrong going on in the shifter, though. If I gently pull the cable underneath the body, the shifter rotates. It shouldn't do that, should it?

The exact model is Shimano SL-RS35. Thanks for any help in advance!


texts: Rear tire has started rubbing frame at one spot

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Riding my bike within my suburban residential neighborhood, I felt a shock, like a snap although I don't think anything snapped, followed by a rubbing noise every few seconds. Pedaling and the brakes continued to work.

I pulled over and examined my bike, starting with the brakes, and discovered that the left side of the rear tire now rubs against the left chain stay at one spot, near the tube valve stem. The wheel/tire is perfectly centered everywhere else along its circumference, just not there.

I've had this bike for about a year (bought at Goodwill), and, aside from a break over the winter, I've been riding it at least once a week, and I can tell you that this didn't happen before.

I haven't done any hard riding recently; I've been taking it easy as I build back up from my winter break.

The tire is seated correctly on the rim, as far as I can tell.

I didn't count the spokes off one by one, but looking at where they each meet the rim, they seem to all still be intact. There weren't any dangling off or obviously snapped away.

The bicycle is an old Univega hybrid bike with 700c Bontrager tires. I'm no expert, but I'd describe the tires as road tires, about an inch wide.

I'm stumped for what's caused it or how to fix it.


texts: pedaling gap after shifting internal hub

texts: I have a 3-speed internal gear hub. After switching between gears no pedaling is possible until I rotate the chainring about a half turn. Is it normal or did something go out of adjustment?


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My rear fixed-gear wheel seized up yesterday on my commute home.  I suspect it's the result of my bone-headed adjustment after replacing a broken locknut on the axle (I may not have put the new locknut on tight enough).  The wheel now refuses to turn - the axle is bound.

I'm curious though: what has actually happened inside?  I noticed it happen over one or two revolutions, as if something was wrapping around the wheel.  Could it be that a bearing cage came loose and wrapped around the axle somehow?  I've tried to take it apart and see, but though I got the locknuts off, I've nearly rounded off the cones themselves (and ruined a cone wrench) trying to get them unscrewed.

Thanks!


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I recently did a big clean up of a bike that I bought and when I was washing the bike there were specs of dirt on the frame that I couldnt remove, I tried a soft brush, Muc off bike cleaner and (water obviously), but the dirt wouldnt go, but I have some motorcycle degreaser that I could spray leave and then have a got at wiping that off, but I was wondering if that would damage the paint and if so, what could I use?
Thanks
Charlie


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I have a pair of Chrome Midway Pro SPD cycling shoes.  These look like sneakers, but have a cleat mount embedded in them.  Mine have worn down a bit and now the cleat crunches against the ground all the time.

What can I do to make the cleat stop grinding?  Maybe build up the front of the shoe around the opening with a few layers of gorilla tape or glue strips of old bike tires to the bottom of my shoe, any suggestions?


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Is it ok that a suspension seat post like the one shown below (source: cyclande.com) is actually a bit loose (moves a bit left-right and probably also up-down).

The vendor told that for such seats it's OK, but I'm not totally sure.


texts: Shimano Nexus 8 IGH : recommendation or changes in bike setup for high altitude ride

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I have bought a second hand bike (VSF T-100) which incorporates Shimano Nexus 8 IGH. The balls wobble inside the gear. So gear is not smooth. I have to change the IGH with a new gear and rim. I will do that in a bike shop (as I am not expert for IGH). I bought this bike for touring. So far I like it even with wobbling balls inside the hub. I want to ride in Alps region (not gravel/mountain roads) with this bike for multi-weeks/days touring. The chain cog/teeth has been changed from 19 teeth to 22 teeth for high altitude ride.
What can I change or upgrade in the bike so that I can even ride faster in the high altitude with Nexus 8 IGH? Any suggestions are highly appreciated :)
note: I am very rookie for IGH incorporated bike...
Correction The rear cog has been changed from 18 to 20 teeth.