texts: Which ball bearings to put in Union K10491 pedals?

texts:
I am trying to put a neglected bicycle back on the road. It has a pedals marked with W. GermanyK10491. Google search revealed that they are Union K10491 pedals. I have found good pictures on ebay. My pedals are almost the same. A bit more rust, one dust cap missing and the other rusty and dented. But in it better days it might resemble the dust caps one the pictures.

Since the pedals were almost siezed I took them apart. Ball bearings did not look too bad. No spalling, almost shiny grey color. The grease had a healthy consistency of dried up clay and a color of pitch tar. What puzzles me that the ball bearings inside (10 per bearing) were roughly 3.68 mm in diameter. Measured with vernier caliper. A Sheldon's crib sheet http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-metric.html says there is no such dimension used regularly in bicycle world. It says most pedals use 5/32" balls.

So, do these pedals use funny ball bearings? Perhaps someone changed the bearings and put in there what ever he had by hand at the moment. Also, front and rear hubs have funny sized bearings also, which would support this hypothesis. Third possibility is that ball bearing wore down from 5/32" down to 3.68 mm. I find that last one pretty hard to swallow. Is it possible for bearings to wear this much?

Can anybody tell me what is the correct size and number of bearings for these pedals?

Good pictures of pedals are on ebay.


texts: Don't integrated headsets wear out, ruining the frame?

texts:
I came upon this marvelous explanation of headset types.

However, this got me wondering. Isn't the role of the headset cups similar to that of the derauler hanged - to not waste the frame as soon as some wear-outable components ends it's life? How do frames with integrated headsets survive more than several years?

from forums.mtbr.com


texts: I have SpinPOWER USB charger kit, and I am using a bottle dynamo with it. I have heard that the power output from a hub dynamo is higher than from a bottle dynamo. Does anyone have any information about the merits of using hub dynamo vs. bottle dynamo? Also, what is a good hub dynamo, and what is a price range for the installation?


texts: Purpose of fork with single bidon mount and no eyelets?

texts:
I saw a fork that had a single bidon mount on each blade, midway down, and no eyelets on the dropouts. I don't understand the use of this. I was under the impression that any front rack would need an eyelet for mounting the bottom of the rack. Alternatively, a bottle cage needs a pair of mounts. So what's the function of this? Seems that there must be some other kind of mounting hardware. What is it?

Here's my representative sketch:


texts:
Cannondale supersix:

Tried to replace the crankset
Replaced the bottom bracket with a new one
replaced the pedals
overhauled the headset

The noise only manifests when a relatively higher torque is applied and it doesn't matter if seated or standing. Moving the weight around the bike while pedaling doesn't have any significant effect on it either.

Thinking about replacing the wheels and QRs and the derailer as soon as I can get my hands on spares.
I thought that the noise is so specific and strong that maybe it is a recognizable one so I can ask for a shortcut.

Update: tracked down to the wheels for now. Spare wheels make the creaking go away.


texts:
I currently own a Cygolite Hotshot which I use with a rack mount in flashing mode. I also have a PDW The red planet which I keep on steady burn.
I wanted something brighter than TRP so I ordered a Niterider Sentinel 40 (which seems to be just like the Solas 40 just with laser lanes), the difference between that and the Hotshot is the diffusing lens on the Sentinel allows for a much larger light spread.

I ride at night on the shoulder (except when I go through intersections, then I'm in the right lane) of a semi-lit intercity 2-lane road where traffic goes at 80-110kph (~50-70mph).

Now I'm not sure which light I should use on steady burn and which in flashing mode. Would it be better for the steady burn to be the focused beam and the flashing to be spread out? Or the other way around?


texts: r9000 Dura Ace inner chainring vs r7000 105

texts:
I just bought a Dura Ace 53/39 off Craigslist. So now I'm buying a DA 50t outer chainring (and selling the 53t).
As for the inner chainring, is there any difference besides price, weight and style between a DA inner chainring and its 105 counterpart? Are they otherwise compatible, functionally the same and roughly as durable?


texts: Does Cycling Cause Erectile Dysfunction and Sterility

texts:
While some of my friends argue that cycling causes erectile dysfunction and sterility (because the testicles are held tightly  close to the body by the padded shorts and because of the constant rubbing of the testicles against the saddle) others contend that it improves sexual performance and enhanced control over premature ejaculation  through strengthening of the pelvic floor muscles.

I'm confused by the diametrically opposite views.

What is the scientific position?

Thank you for your help in advance.


texts: Is gasoline an effective restoration material to use?

texts:
A fellow rider just picked up an old mountain bike which has some rust and plenty of gunk in the gears to wash out. He intends to use gasoline to clean the entire bike.

This is the first I ever heard of using gas to clean the chain, gears, spokes, pedals, derailleur. Does it work? Save time? It stands to reason it might cut through the grease but can it restore any luster to rusty components?

If no --> the materials & methods YOU use to clean/restore bikes would be appreciated.

also Is there anyway to get rust off the wheels, handlebars, nuts/bolts etc?

Please do not use product names, company names or backlinks in your answer; this is not an invitation for spam.

NOTE "Water, soap, elbow-grease, oil & rubber-protectant" is not an acceptable answer - looking for insight not a statement of the obvious.


texts: How can one estimate the length of a commute?

texts:
How can a cyclist, new to commuting by bike and not all that experienced in riding, estimate how long a commute will take?

Answers will of course vary, and actually riding the commute will tell the tale. But are there any general guidelines to use to get an estimate? What factors will affect this? (Fitness, traffic, etc.)


texts: Trek 3700 XC Hardtail - looking to convert to temp road bike

texts:
Bike Description

Front suspension, knobby tires

Frame: Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, bi-oval down tube w/integrated gusset, rack & fender mounts, disc compatible dropouts, replaceable derailleur hanger

Front Suspension: Front suspension SR Suntour XCT w/coil spring and preload, 80mm travel
Wheels: Formula alloy FM21 front hub, FM31 rear hub; Bontrager 550 36-hole rims w/brushed sidewalls

Shifters: Shimano EF51, 7 speed? Something like that.

Brakeset: Tektro linear pull brakes w/Shimano EF51 levers

19" frame- I believe.

My son is in his first triathlon end of May. He is 12, 5'2 and 31" inseam. So we gather he needs a Med bike 19"+(50cm) but going through growth spurts... We would love to get him a new/used road bike, however it is a big expense, and he just grew two inches this month (and summer is coming with more spurts on the way). I don't want to invest in a bike that will be too small for him in June, so finding a way to make this work.

So, we are looking at the temporary. We all have mountain bikes, and was recommended to us, that we switch out the suspension with light weight, rigid forks, and also switch out our wheels/tires. It is not a road bike, but will get us through till our son gets to a more interchangeable height.

What size, or type of fork is recommended? Is there a difference in size? We can afford alloy, or aluminum for both wheels and forks, and looking to spend about $200 for the temp. situation. And then tires, what is recommended. Are there additional things that are missing in the componentry that would be needed to pull this together? Not as in brakes or gears, just bear bones. We are not looking to build a bike, just have a go between solution while my son is growing.

Suggestions, appreciated!

Cheers

( Yes I got the inseam right. You should see all of his high waders. He is leggy. Enough that the rest of him will be catching up soon.)


texts: Recently my bike rear wheel was hit by a car at a traffic light. Now it's bent a little and touches the brake. It cannot be fixed by adjusting the spokes and I am going to need a new one. My bike is Schwinn varsity 1200. Here are pics of the wheel.


texts: Need help understanding my grip shifters on my handle bar

texts: I am new to mountain bikes and recently bought the Apollo Phaze bike. I was wondering if anyone can help me understand the functions of these gears and when to shift them. For example, when commuting to uni and back, I have travel over hilly paths and I was wondering which gearing options would be best for going uphill and downhill. There are 2 types of shifters on my handlebar, one shifter is for speed as stated on the shifter and the other shifter is for friction or something, I am not quite sure. For some perspective, I have attached the picture of my gears. I hope someone has some information to help me understand the shifters better.


texts:
I've seen some bikes with a pugsley or similar fork and 3"+ tires on a hard tail mtb frame.

-Has anyone done this them selves?
-Do you really notice any flotation with only one fat tire and one regular? (2.3" is the max my rear triangle will accept)


texts: How can I learn to sprint and ride out of the saddle?

texts: I'm pretty new to road cycling, I've been road cycling since June 2017, because it's winter in Canada I recently got a indoor trainer and zwift. On a recent zwift session, I tried sprinting out of the saddle and it felt very weird and my watts as well as my speed were way below what I can do while in the saddle. Any tips on how I can get more comfortable sprinting and in general riding out of the saddle? Thanks!


texts: Can hydraulic brake levers get hot when brakes overheat?

texts: If your hydraulic brakes get hot, can this heat ever travel to your brake levers. Can your levers feel hot or is this my imagination?


texts: Any idea what this is, seller says it's a Haro

texts: This bmx is advertised as an old school Haro but I'm not so sure it is.


texts:
So I need to replace my inner tube as it got destroyed beyond any repair I can make (a hole right under the valve) but unfortunately I dont know what size the inner tube should be and I cannot figure out the different types of measurements of tubes. The metal part of the wheel has the markings 700x22 A/C, while the inner tube is too worn out to make out anything on it (Ive had it for like 2 years and I patched it 3 times :D )

The wheel is on the front and its a mountain bike, If that matters.


texts:
I have Shimano M542 with 3 chainrings (44-32-22) for 9 speed chain.

Is it possible to fit it with chainrings made of steel for better durability? I do not mind extra weight. The dimensions are 110 BCD 4.

If yes where can they be bought?


texts: Trials: knee and elbow hurting, am I doing it wrong?

texts:
I just started learning trials stunts. I'm currently playing at a trackstand / wheelie / endo level, so basic stuff.

Yet, my knee and elbow on the lead foot side are hurting... I know quite a few people who have bad knee problems, and I'm a bit worried this may happen to me as well.

Did you experience the same pains when you started trials? What did you do to fight / avoid them, did it go better with practice and muscles, or am I just doing it wrong somehow?

edit, one month later

Just in case some people stumble upon this later, with the same questions in mind...

I've given myself some rest, about two weeks, to let my body recover. Now with more practice, I tend to do smoother moves, and manage to avoid hurting myself.

I also try not to overestimate my capabilities and stop before I'm too tired and something bad inevitably happens.

Always wear a helmet, there are enough videos online to know how it feels like not to wear one.

Wear gloves, they protect your all-important hands. Remember your hands are your first protection when you fall.

I eventually invested in knee protections: my right knee met the pedal a few times, and trust me it hurts badly now.

Stay reasonably safe and enjoy your stunts :-)


texts:
Watching the Olympics, I've noticed that track bikes seem to vary between events.
For example, in the Keirin, all the riders have bikes with a solid/disc rear wheel and a front wheel that has a solid inner but with gaps. In the Omnium, however, they seem to ride bikes with two complete disc wheels.

Some events also seem to call for aero bars on top of drop bars, some only drops.

I can see that these might affect how the bike handles, and favour either top speed or maneuverability, but, as I only have a basic knowledge of what each track event involves, I am struggling to piece together exactly why each event has its particular combination of components.

Is anyone able to give a run down of how what the features of the bike are for each of the main track events and why those features are ideal for that event?


texts: How do I properly torque a track cog lockring?

texts:
I see a torque rating is stamped onto a lot of track cog lock rings:

However, I cannot find a way to use a torque wrench when tightening the lock ring. All the tools I've found, like Park Tool's HCW-17, are for hand use.

Are there any lock ring tools that can be used with a socket so that I can attach a torque wrench? Or is guessing the torque by feel the only option here?


texts:
I have a second hand chapelli 3 speed bike.

Everything was fine until I got a flat tire on my back wheel.

I was able to figure out how to get the back wheel off (after a bit of Googling), by disconnecting the back shifter and thus allowing the wheel to come off.

After putting the tire back on, I realised I had moved the lock nut for the adjuster and couldn't remember quite where the shifter adjuster was previously set to. I put it back to where I thought it went and took it for a test ride and it was fine.

Recently, I have noticed that sometimes the gear slips a little (I think that's the right word for it) when I am riding and I change gear; I will be pedaling and it feels like it "slips" as the pedals will drop a little as if missing something and then pick back up normally.

I found a manual for my shifter online today, and the diagram has suggested the below is where I should adjust my shifter to:

I'm not a huge bike person and less so a mechanic and so had a little trouble following the instructions for "Gear Adjustment" on the manual I linked above. Based on the diagram, I got my shifter adjusted to the below:

Have I interpreted these instructions correctly?


texts: Garmin Heart Rate Monitor Not Reporting Accurate HR Anymore

texts:
With my first Garmin Edge 305, I got the cadence and heart rate accessories. Cadence is still humming along, but the heart rate monitor has been not accurately reporting heart rate over the past couple months.

Two battery changes and various attempts to wet the contacts and my skin beneath have not resurrected the reliability of the heart rate monitor strap.

Do you all have any further suggestions to try to get the Garmin Heart Rate Monitor working properly again, or is it time to just bite the bullet and buy a replacement heart rate monitor strap. If so, another Garmin-branded one or a different ANT+ heart rate monitor?


texts: Very sloppy shifting on smaller cogs (BSO)

texts:
I have very few complaints with my BSO, but this is one of them.

My rear derailleur seems to hold the same 'up and down' tension across all the cogs. So when I'm on the first couple of cogs (32 and 26 teeth), the shifting is precise and efficient. But when I move out towards the end of the freewheel, I have to push the lever a long way to make the jump to the next cog, and then pull it back to keep it from making noise.

Basically, the top jockey wheel stays at the same height all the way across the freewheel, which means that when it's on the small cogs, it's hanging well below them, and has to move a long way to get the chain to hop to the next cog.

Is there a way to adjust this, or is it simply a consequence of having BSO-level components?


texts: Why are almost all bicycle tyres cross-ply/bias ply and not radial construction?

texts:
Most times when I see a failed bicycle tyre (one where the threads are showing through) they look something like this, with diagonal threads clearly visible

Here's a random manufacturer's cutaway showing diagonal casing threads

Here's a line diagram showing the difference:

So I'd reason that most/all bicycle tires are Cross Ply in build, and not Radial.

My google-fu does return these points:

Radial tyres are cheaper to make than the equivalent cross ply
Radial tyres are lighter and have better fuel economy than a cross ply
Radial tyres track better, where cross ply tyres have been known to "tramline" vehicles.
Cross ply tyres have a more rigid sidewall, radial tyres have a more supple sidewall.
Suspension needs to be altered in a car to accommodate the differences between ride handling in the two styles.

Usage

Automobiles tyres are almost exclusively radial.
4WD tyres are predominantly radial, but cross ply have much better sidewall strength and resist damage better.
Motorcycle tyres may be either, where radials are preferred for speed and cross ply are preferred for load carrying (touring or cruising)
Truck (ie load carrying vehicles) might use either, with cross ply for load carrying and radial for long distance.

Even wikipedia is ambiguous, saying

  Radial tires have occasionally found application on bicycles, used on the 1980s Miyata touring bicycle; models 1000 and 610,[19] and more recently in 2009 on the Maxxis Radiale.[20] Panaracer radial tires were also standard on the Jamis Gentry model bicycle in 1985.

I would have expected that radial construction with "supple side walls" to help a lot in reducing rolling resistance, but its uncommon.

Why are Radial tyre constructions uncommon in bicycle tyres?


texts: Any compatible trigger shifters for el-cheapo TD ONE derailleur?

texts:
Bought a cheap RoadMaster MTB's as a first "grown up" bikes for my daughter. For the price (~$60 in a sale) they play nicely, but it shows the poor quality of the components.

The biggest gripe is the grip shifters (as in each and every Walmart bikes). I'd like to change the shifters to trigger type. The rear cassette is  6-speed and the derailleur (as the rest of components) is some "TD ONE" generic brand. I know the shifter must match the actual derailleur type, due to differences in the pull ratios between brands.

Any suggestion on what type of shifter would be compatible with the TD ONE derailleur?


texts:
I need to re-cable* and rewrap my bars anyway.  I'd like to take the chance to improve the cable routing for a couple of specific things:

The gear cables catch on the dynamo light mounted on the fork crown in tight turns.  This can cause the barrel adjusters to creep, losing my low gears (I've locked off the rear one as there's another, but can't do that for the front).
I sometimes use a bar bag. At the moment I have to fit the bag behind the cables (brake and gear), then pack it on the bike.  The cables restrict what I can put in there.  If I want to use the bungee net on the outside of the bag, I have to remove it and relace it over the top of the cables.

So I'd like to re-route the cables, but I'm not sure what my options are.
Here are front and side views, without the bar bag:

And a front view with the bag empty and roughly fitted for show

The light mounted on the bars, that clashes with the bag, is only there for testing, and isn't a concern.
If I extend the cables to give more clearance for the bag, they'll be even worse for hitting the dynamo light.  Part of the problem is the cable stops with barrel adjusters on the headtube.
I suspect there are things I can do without more accessories, but there might be some small  device that makes a big difference.  Ideally the cables would route behind the bag, but they're not doing that with those cable stops.  The rear brake cable (left hand as I'm in the UK) also doesn't work too well for this, but would be easier to deal with.

* I snapped a gear cable inner yesterday, and there was so much friction when I fitted the replacement at the roadside I couldn't shift at the back.  For 200km until I got home.  The outer seems to be the issue.


texts:
I like the feel of Surly's Disc Trucker, 3x10.

http://surlybikes.com/bikes/disc_trucker/bike_specs

But I want STI shifters, not bar-ends.  Moving to STI would seem to screw up the brake pull; duly noted.

Two questions:

Will STI shifters work with the front derailleur?  (Sora Triple)
Will STI shifters work with the rear derailleur?  (XT 10-speed)

Guessing yes (front) and not at all (rear).

It looks like a 9-speed XT RD would work and give me all ten in the back??


texts: How do I find the master link on a Mongoose Intake dirt jump bike?

texts: I want to switch cranks on my Mongoose Intake dirt jump bike but can't find the master link


texts: Examples of disc brakes causing injury in pro races

texts:
Before disc brakes became UCI legal there was a lot of people arguing that they were more dangerous than standard v brakes in bunch races. Often it was highlighted that a very hot spinning metal disc could slice through skin or tissue very easily.
Discs have now been in pro and local races for quite a while - I was wondering if there were any examples of this actually happening?
Cheers


texts: How much time takes for hydraulic disk brakes to cool down?

texts: Yesterday I was on a DH track for the first time. I have Avid Elixir 7 brakes with 203" rotor in front and 180" rear. The descent took about 5 minutes, and the ropeway up about 15 minutes. After 6 runs I started to notice that my brakes refuse to work properly, and on the 9th and 10th run they were almost gone towards the end of the trail. On the first two runs I used them a lot, because I didn't know the trail, but it surprised me then when I stopped using them excessively, they started to fail me. From here comes the question, how much time takes them to cool down? I understand 20 minutes pause from the runs doesn't helps much, although the rotors were cold. Guess DOT keeps it's temperature for more time.


texts: Can I install an upright handlebar (curved towards me) on a touring bike?

texts:
I bike around the city on a daily basis, usually for short distances (5 km tops, typically less than that). I currently have a cheap, battered down touring bike that is nevertheless doing the job surprisingly well, and I think it can work for quite some time more with the proper maintenance.

However, I'd like a more upright riding position. I used to have a dutch-style bike and I found it much more comfortable than my current one, even though it was way too small for me. When riding my touring bike I very often find myself sitting as upright as I can while still holding the handlebar with the tips of my fingers, and I think, "only if this handlebar would curve towards me..."

So I think I have about three options right now:

Spend around $600 in a dutch-style bike (new or second hand). That's going to get me a very heavy bike with 3 gears, maybe 5. My experience with this (the 3 gears part) is terrible.
Spend way more than that. I don't want to do this, not because I can't afford it, but because I park my bike in the street all the time, and bike theft is a thing here, not a rampant problem, but it happens. The more the bike is worth, the more likely it is to get stolen.
Spend a fraction of that on a dutch-style handlebar and install it on my bike. I'd need longer cables too, and maybe a wider seat in case the increased weight on it makes it uncomfortable, but it's still cheaper and I end up with a better bike than in option 1.

So I guess the question is, is this a good idea? Or is there some danger that I'm not aware of? I feel there must be something wrong with it, otherwise I would have seen plenty of bikes like this already.

Edit
This is the model I have now (only the seat is different)


texts:
The spec sheet on my bike says I have Dura-Ace 9000 components.  I want to buy a replacement name plate.  The one on the left is genuine Shimano Y63X98020 and the one on the right is what I'm trying to get replaced.

More photos of the to-be-replaced part below:

Original item photos


texts: Panniers or rack bags for photography equipment

texts:
Currently I am cycling a lot with a backpack (specifically a chrome citizen), whilst the bag is brilliant it's just not big enough for everything I'm carrying, and with a lot of weight in it it hurts.

I've just bought this rack, and I'm looking to invest in a new set of panniers or some form of rack bag for my bike.

On a day to day basis I'm carrying at least one camera body (at the moment a big heavy Canon 1D body), a large telephoto lens, a wider lens and a flash. On top of this I have other items, such as my bike lock, a pad of paper and a small ThinkPad laptop (~12 inch), it would be nice to also have a change of shoes if possible.

I'm looking for some panniers which will:

Fit in all of my camera gear

Keeping it relatively safe, and dry within reason (i.e. no monsoon)

Fit in my other day to day items.
Ideally I would like to be able to take a pannier full of my camera gear straight off the bike and use it while shooting, then pop it back on and set off with minimal fuss.

What would best suit the above? I should probably add I'm in the UK.


texts:
I'm slowly turning my XC biking time into trial sessions. For now I'm only doing some track stands, endo's and wheelies, but I'm probably going to go for more as soon as I can do these properly. I'm probably never going to reach the level of Danny Macaskill, but that's for sure the kind of stuff I want to do.

I currently have a good, trustworthy mountain bike. And I'm using it for this basic trial. Alas, I'm afraid I could badly damage it, as my wheelies landing are not as smooth as they should be, and so are my endo's. I need this bike to go to work, and it really has a high sentimental value, so I can't afford to break it.

I'd have a few questions related to this.

Is there a (non-obvious) risk I could badly damage the fork or frame of my bike by doing some badly executed trial figures? I know for a fact that my front wheel hub is already bent. How about the wheel slots?
Should I decide to go for a specialised trial bike, what kind of gear should I get? I've seen some low-profile hard tail frames, they seem essential. What kind of wheel should I take (size ?), etc.
Again, if I'm making a new bike, I'd like to keep a reasonable budget. What are the parts that must be of good quality, and what are these who can start "small" to be improved later if needs be?
Would rim brakes be sufficient for starters, or do I absolutely need huge and expensive disk brakes to start?

Thanks for your help. Don't hesitate to be verbose: I might have been riding for a while, it's really this year that I started maintaining my bike myself.


texts: Alternative to 1" threaded low profile headset?

texts:
I have a old (guessing ~2005) Jamis Aurora road bike. Recently, I found that the threads on the headset (probably original, nuts are made of aluminum) were stripped. The bike has a steel fork, and is designed for a 1" threaded headset. Apparently these are not very common any more.

A local bike shop had an old one in stock, which looks pretty close to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Fixie-Track-Road-Headset/dp/B00811SI5E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1431293092&sr=8-9&keywords=bike+headset

Unfortunately, it turns out that due to the length of my fork (or my frame?), I need a "low profile" headset, rather than a standard one. So far, it looks like it will cost around $50 for one of these.

I think the other option would be to replace the fork, which is more expensive, but would save me the trouble of dealing with this problem next time the headset goes.

Are there any other options?


texts:
I am planning to by these cycling shoes which claims "Restriction of use:Only compatible with Delta Pedals and Cleats".

Reading up about Delta and Keo I understand that Keo pedals and Delta cleats are not compatible and vice versa. However, I could not find if the Keo cleats can be fit on these shoes.

So I guess my question is, if I buy these shoes and Keo pedals+cleats, can I fit the 3-hole Keo cleats on to the 3-holes in the shoes? In other words, are the dimensions and size of the 3-holes same in Keo and Delta?

Hope I make sense. Thanks!


texts: How to remove completely stuck saddle post from frame

texts:
I am helping a friend fix his bike that he got for free. Everything went well, except that I cant raise the saddle. The seatpost is really stuck in the frame.

The clamp was easily removed. When I tried to turn the saddle only the saddle itself is turning, and the seatpost remained stuck. I tightened the saddle bracket as hard as I could, and I managed to turn the seat post a few millimeters back and forth. But somehow it is even more stuck now and I can't move it at all. I am afraid that I will bend/break the bracket in the seat if I tighten it anymore.

I tried with a pipe wrench and still couldn't twist it. Perhaps I will be able to if I have another person holding the bike so I have two hands for the wrench. I did manage to damage the surface of the seat post though.

I have a few questions:

How would a professional remove the seatpost?
Why is it even stuck? Can this happen because of rust, or is it more likely because the previous owner hammered a 30.2mm seatpost into a frame meant for 30mm? I can see at the Wikipediaartikel (link) that both 29.6, 29.8, 30.0, 30.2 and 30.4mm are common sizes. As I don't have a precise caliper I can only tell you that it is approximately 30mm.
If it is because of rust, can I polish off the rust and use the same seatpost again? If so, should I polish the post or the internal part of the frame?


texts: How to remove this eccentric bottom bracket?

texts:
One of my bikes has an eccentric bottom bracket with a Gates belt drive and a Shimano Alfine 11 IGH.

For a few days now, I've experienced some creaking noise when pushing on the right pedal. Even removing the right pedal, cleaning it, greasing it, and putting it back on didn't solve the issue.

So I figure I should do the same thing with the chainring, but I don't know how to do it: After using a 10mm Allen key followed by an 8mm Allen key, I could successively remove the two screws on the left side (shown as "1" on the picture), but then, I'm left with empty space where a standard bottom bracket axle lives.

Should I use some specific spanner to undo the rings shown at "2"?

Thank you.


texts: Stuck Compression Plug and Top Cap Screw

texts:
Issue
My top cap screw bolt is currently stuck in my compression plug, and I'm seeking some advice on how to remove both the broken bolt and the compression plug.

This was the top cap I was using:
It's a weightweenie one piece top cap and top cap bolt.
https://www.cycleservicenordic.com/en/products/headset-top-cap/absoluteblack-top-cap-and-bolt-in-one-

What happened
My initial installation of the top cap wasn't perfect for the preload.
Symptoms appeared in the form of loose headset and the top cap bolt becomes stuck.
Tried to unscrew top cap but didn't work.
Eventually the T25 top cap bolt stripped.
Used Araldite in the bolt and on my T25 key, left it over 2 nights, still didn't unscrew.
Hence my diagnosis was that during installation, there was cross-threading. But does it explain why it is so insanely difficult to unscrew? Not sure.
Then came the drilling.
My plan was to drill off the top cap, then use some pliers to turn the remaining top cap bolt.
Look where it got me, there doesn't seem to be any top cap bolt left.
Specifics
It's a Bianchi Oltre XR4 fork.
1-1/8inch steerer tube. Rim brakes (no hole in steerer tube).
Compression plug was torqued to 6Nm. Top cap was just lightly hand tight.
Compression plug is from Aliexpress and looks like :

Parameters
I am not planning to reuse the compression plug so it can be destroyed.
Steerer tube can be cut about another 4-5mm.
Seeking your wisdom
I'm not sure if there was actually cross-threading or that the metallic surface somehow fused together (not entirely sure if compression plug is steel or alu).
Please teach me how to remove the whole assembly out of my steerer tube.
Thank you, the Feynmans of the bicycle world!


texts: Best advice for buying a replacement spoke

texts:
Can you get spokes cut to length for replacement use in run-of-the-mill bikes, e.g. one with an older 26 x 1 3/8  wheel where there is not likely to be a standard size in the 'DT Swiss' range?

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to accurately get the length right? I imagine this is not going to be an instant job in an LBS, does anyone do this mail order (particularly in the UK)?

Do bike shops generally have that tool to put a thread on the end of a cut-to-length spoke or has that gone the way of the buggy whip?


texts: Zero Offsetting P1 pedals using just Rouvy android mobile app

texts: I don't have a bike computer, rather I use my old cellphone for that matter. Does anybody know how to do a zero offset of P1S pedals using Rouvy app? Apparently, there should be an option when you pair your sensor, but on my app I don't have one. Please see the attachment and thanks.


texts: How can I adjust index shifter so it doesn't skip the second chainring?

texts:
I recently replaced my chain and cassette on my commuter bike.  It was a first time operation for me, as I am a new to doing bike maintenance.  That part seems to have gone fine.  While I was at it, I decided to adjust my front deraileur since it was rubbing a bit in certain gears.  I seem to have messed everything up while I was playing with it.

The guide I was reading said to adjust the lower limit and check that it doesn't rub for the whole range of gears on the rear cassette.  By the time I had concluded that there was no way that was going to happen and I would just have to avoid silly front/rear gear combinations, I'd messed up everything.

When I do a single full up-shift click on the shifter, the deraileur moves far enough to take the chain from the smallest chainring to to the largest chainring, skipping over the middle one.  The little window on the shifter says "2", and it won't go up to "3" since I've maxed out the high stop on the deraileur.  Downshifting drops it all the way back to the small chainring.  If I disconnect the cable from the deraileur with the only tension being me holding the other end of the cable, the shifter works like I'd expect.  It nicely clicks through 1-3 and back again.

It seems to me that I twiddled something that makes the shifter pull more cable with each click than it used to, but I can't figure out what that might have been.  Alternately, I've done something else completely knuckleheaded.

The bike is a 2008 Raleigh Cadent FT2 with ST R225 shifters.  Except for a spoke and the afore-mentioned chain and cassette, everything is stock.

Can anyone help a newbie figure this out?


texts: essential shops are closed, has anyone got any household remedies for any problems with your bike? ie: lubrication, rust removal degreasers well any homemade or household stuff uses for your bike.


texts: Will a Mishiki Pueblo Mountain 20 in frame hold my weight. I go about 330

texts:
I weigh about 330  ...

Will a Mishiki Pueblo Mountain Bike 20 inch frame will hold my weight?


texts: Orientation of asymmetrical brake pads on front vs. rear

texts: I'm replacing some old cartridge pads that I can't find inserts for with one-piece Kool-stops. Both are asymmetrical types, but the front set of old shoes are explicitly designated for "tail-forward" installation (see image). The only reason I can think of for doing this is for clearance of the fork when cable tension is released. Assuming that this isn't an issue in this particular case (it doesn't look like it would be) is there any other reason to follow this example, rather than installing in the more typical tail-behind orientation that the new pads are designed for? Context is cantilevers on suspension fork brake arch, if that makes a difference.


texts: What type of rear derailleur is used on my bike?

texts:
Direct mount or hanger mount?

Sooo, one glance at these photos will tell you why I'm asking this...

Needles to say, I need a new one and I'd like to know what I should be looking for. It's for a 21-speed mountain bike, if it's of any importance. I hope you can make out anything from this mangled mess.


texts: Converting calorie count on standard gym stationary bike to power data

texts: I use the stationary bike in my apartment's gym to train in winter. The bike does not give me power data, but it does give me "calories burned per hour." (as a rate, not a count)  Is there any way to use this to calculate my power output? I assume the machine is measuring my power, because I don't see how it could calculate calories burned otherwise.


texts: Did I damage my frame by removing a sticker?

texts:
I’ve just bought a new bike with a matt finish, and peeled off a sticker from the top of the frame - but this revealed a shiny finish underneath.

Is this a problem, and do I need to do anything about it?

I’m wondering if the frame is now vulnerable to weather etc. on this spot, or if there’s a risk the coating could start to peel away from the edges.


texts: PRO LT Handlebar Stem asks to tighten top handlebar screws first before bottom screws? Conflicting manual instructions?

texts:
I bought this PRO (Shimano) LT handlebar stem. However, I'm having difficulty decoding the instructions in which to tighten the handlebar clamps.
The stem itself has this piece of cardboard in between the top handlebar clamping bolts

Which I assume is telling me to tighten the 2 top bolts first, so that there is no gap at the top of the clamp. Then proceed to tighten the bottom 2 bolts on the bottom to torque spec.
However, when I look at the manual, it says

In case of 4 bolts: tighten always crosswise and evenly.
In case of additional instruction is added between stem body and stem cap, follow this instructions carefully.

The visual instructions show no mention of tightening the top bolts first.

I'm familiar with the method above, but not so much the instructions on the yellow cardboard.
How do i satisfy both conditions, in which I tighten things crosswise and evenly, while following the instructions on the clamp to tighten the top two bolts first so that there is no gap?
I've always been taught that gap differential in handlebar bolts is a bad thing. Is this just an exception to that rule?
Here is the actual stem. There are no markings on the bottom bolts.

Anyone know what I might be misinterpreting here? I'll be sending an email to the manufacturer as well, but just wondering if anybody had any insight.
Here is the relevant visual instructions in the manual

The full text instructions:

EDIT:
So I've found some information on it. These two videos mention the existence of "zero-gap" stems.

A procedure with a zero-gap stems:

An article on stem variations:
https://www.mbr.co.uk/buyers_guide/best-mountain-bike-stems-356559
The reason they seem to exist, reduces the risk of uneven tensioning, as there are only two bolts to worry about.
The procedure seems to be to tighten the designated side fully to spec (or just tight), then tighten the opposite side to torque specifications.


texts: Terminology index - a list of bike part names and cycling concepts

texts:
This question and its answers list the names of bike parts and cycling concepts.
Some Rules

Make sure you only put one term per answer!
Try to include an image if applicable
Include sources that contain detailed information
Add a link to the index in this question using edit.

Also, I made this a community wiki, so that anyone will be able to edit it, and to stop rep-hoarding

There's a handy reference at the Park Tool Co. website, a bike repair map; it's a diagram of a bike with all the parts labeled, and is very handy! At the moment, the diagram is up at parktool.com/blog/repair-help. (They've changed the URL in the past, so this link may break.)
A road bike has the following parts (source):

A mountain bike has the following parts (source):

Edit: This page is meant to identify what things or concepts are (as per this thread in meta). If you want to recommend an accessory or a specific product you've found handy, please use the accessories page.

Contents

Axle
Axle Nuts

BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter)BearingBonk/BonkingBottle Cage / Bottle HolderBottom Bracket
Boom/Boom TubeBrazed FrameBrifterBSD (Bead Seat Diameter)BSO/Bike-Shaped-Object

Cable PullCable StretcherCadenceChain GaugeChain Guard/CoverChain ToolChain Tug/Chain Tensioner
Chainstay LengthChainsuckChamoisClipless PedalsCoaster Brake (foot brake / pedal brake)Crank

DerailleurDerailer Hanger/Derailleur RangerDisc HubDoor Zone
DropoutDropper PostDunlop Valve

e

Fender/Mudguard/MudflapsFixed-GearFlip-Flop Hub
Folding BikeFrame

Gear Inches
Groupset

HandlebarsHeadsetHose Clamp aka Jubilee Clip
HubHub Skewer

Internally-Geared Hub

j

Keel Tube

Lawyer lips/lawyer tabsLateral TubeLBS/Local Bike Shop
Luggage Carrier/RackLugged Frame

Master LinkMixte
Mountain Bike

n

o

PannierPlayPower Meter
Presta Valve/Presta TubePump Peg

Q-Factor
Quick-Release

REI (Recreational Equipment Inc)
RimRim Tape

SaddleSaddlebagSchrader Valve/ Schrader TubeSingle-speedSkewer
SpiderSpokeStemSuspension Fork/Rear Shock

Through/Thru AxleTire ClearanceTire Lever/Tire Iron
Tire SaverTrack Pump/Floor PumpTriathalon Bars/Triathlon Bars

u

v

Welded Frame

x

y

z


texts: How to repair pedal snapped off crank arm?

texts: The pedal axle snapped just where it enters the crank arm. This left the threaded portion of the pedal axle in the crank arm hole. How do I remove this to replace the pedal?


texts: Crank extractor not screwing in properly

texts:
I'm trying to insert my crank extractor into the crank of a square taper (Shimano Tourney). It won't really screw in properly. On several attempts it will go in a little bit (about 1 or 2 mm) and quite abruptly won't turn anymore, as if it didn't go in properly. It doesn't feel right. I've tried it enough times that I'm fairly sure it's not the angle I'm using causing the problem.

I am starting with the inner part of the extractor fully inside the outer part, so it isn't that the inner part is simply already pushing into the spindle or anything.

The crank extractor is the Birzman universal crank extractor.

What am I doing wrong here?

It's at this point that the extractor will 'stick', only going in a very small amount. Shouldn't it go further?


texts: Learning how to build a bike: Is it better to buy a used bike and disassemble it?

texts:
As a summer project I decided to learn how to build a bike (from the comfort of my room). I have very little experience with bikes (I just ride a rented bike daily) and have no knowledge with fixing things in general (why I want to learn).
So I started looking into ways to build a bike in my room. I don't have a super tight budget (~2/3k). I'd be doing it mainly for the actual learning experience, and also of course later to get rid of my rental and ride it in the city and do some touring with it. But mainly because I want to learn about building bikes, all the little details in order to customize it and how to improve my ride; I want to be able to look at a bike and eventually feel comfortable with understanding how everything works.
After a bit of research, as I was about to buy my first pieces online, I realized that in my local bike shop there are quite a few used bikes selling for as little as 60 euro.
So I thought: maybe it's better to buy a used bike and disassemble it instead?
What are your thoughts on the subject? Should I buy a used and disassemble it, or start from scratch?
Note: consider my main drive here is learning and not quality of build. Of course I'd want it for also to be functional, but like I said I don't have the necessity for a bike to be used asap (I rent one for my daily use).
EDIT
Thanks everyone for the invaluable comments. When I posted a question I decided to buy a quite broken bike from a local shop:

Apart from the back-wheel spokes being completely broken, the hub of the back wheel and the bottom bracket where completely in need an over-haul. The bearings were toasted. Thanks to the RJ bike guy videos on youtube I disassembled it completely and got it up and running and is now my ever-day bike:


texts:
I've got a 1981 (i'm told) bianchi 10-speed road bike. I am having trouble left and right. is there anything as basic as a site wherein i could provide the serial number and get some general information on the bike in return;, when it was made, the model maybe?

a lot of love for you guys, i'm new today and have a moderate amount of experience servicing bikes


texts: Why do I always get punctures in my rear wheel?

texts:
I get probably five times as many punctures in my rear wheel as opposed to my front wheel. I run a good pressure and don't get obvious pinch flats.

Does anyone have a logical reason why this could be happening?


texts: Equipping a commuter bike for a 5 mile city commute

texts:
My commute is a bit over 5 miles each way through the city. It's not that long a commute; in traffic, it takes about 35 minutes door to door, and I'm never far from public transit that I could use in an emergency. I tend to prefer to travel light; rather than lugging a lot of equipment around so I can spend a while fixing my bike in the middle of my commute, I'd rather just lock it up and hop on the train or walk the rest of the way; this isn't a bike I'll be taking on long trips out in the middle of nowhere. Beyond the commute, I'll use my bike to get around town on weekends as well, but usually for similar sorts of rides.

What would you consider essential equipment for such a commute? What kind of bike would you choose for such purposes?

Is it worth it to carry a tire patch kit with me in such situations, or pump? How much rain gear should I have, or should I just give up and take the train at the slightest rain? Regular pedals, toe clips over normal shoes, or should I look into clipless pedals? Lights are of course a given, since I ride home after dark. Anything else I should think of?


texts:
I went to replace the pads on my front mechanical disc brake.

I noticed the pad on the stationary side had significantly less wear than the pad on the actuated side.

Could I get away with flipping the left pad with the right pad to get more life out of them?

Stationary Pad

Actuated Pad

Edit:

Pads: Tektro A10.11

Calipers: https://www.mate.bike/us/product/tektro-mechanical-disc-brake-set-mate-x/ can't find the model number

This is on the front wheel.


texts: I have a dynacraft next mountain ridge 26" bike & it already has a front disc brake but would I be able to add a disc brake to my rear wheel which previously had a v brake on it that I ripped off?


texts: Halfords just replaced my chainset and it is a 10 speed one, but my cassette is 8 speed. Am I ok?

texts:
Last week my chainset was replaced (in warranty) and I just found out that the chainset is 10 speed (FSA Vero) but my rear cassette (+Claris gears and shifters) is 8 speed.

I want to know if I will be fine. The bike is Carerra TDF Limited Edition 2012 model.


texts: How can I remove the small slitted nuts to open an old rear hub?

texts:
This is an old back hub that has back-pedal break, and two internal gears. As pictured it has two slitted nuts that lock the hub.

Which tool should I use to remove these nuts without damaging them?

Is there some way of removing them without a special tool?


texts:
How does the 52/36 chainring coupled with a 11/30 cassette match up.
Will it be good for a 70 year old recreational rider? Or what combo would you suggest?


texts: Can / should you put a 28C tire on a rim with an ETRTO of 622 x 14

texts:
Setting aside the questions of frame and brake clearance for the moment, my question is whether or not I can install 28C tires on my rims which have an ETRTO of 622x14.  I currently have 23C tires on the bike, which is what the bike came with originally, but am thinking of moving to 25C or even 28C tires but am not sure if 28C is too wide for these rims.

And the next question is, even if it does fit on the rim will it create a safety or performance issue to put 28C's on these rims?

My goal is to move from my old school 23C's to something with less rolling resistance and that give a little more forgiving ride.  Just want to be sure I do it safely and wisely.


texts: What's the difference between a Gran Fondo and an Étape?

texts: I guess you can include Century in the list too.  Are they all just long rides or are they races?   Do they have to be for time, or just fun?   Some seem to be for charity.


texts: Reverse a saved course on Garmin Edge 200?

texts:
If I've saved a course to my Edge 200, can I reverse it to get back to the start? Or do I need to save two versions?

The "back to start" option only seems to be there when I'm already following a course, not when I'm about to set off. Which isn't that helpful if you've stopped for a while.


texts: I want to buy a new fork (a SR Suntour Raidon XC DS-LO-R if you are curious). It says that it works only with a disc brake. Guess who has a V-brake? Me. How to upgrade from V to disc and is it worth it to do it for such a thing. I ride street, light trails and I almost don't jump with the bike.


texts: How can I check tire pressure without a pressure gauge?

texts:
I would like to tell if my tires are correctly inflated, in this case road tires, but I do not have a pressure gauge.

Is there a handy heuristic for checking the pressure? Could I do it, for example, by trying to squeeze the tire between two fingers and seeing how easily it gives? (I can do that anyway, but it wouldn't give me any idea about the pressure level.)


texts:
I use a BMC TM02 on CycleOps Magnus. The seat bolt has sheared off twice while riding on the trainer.
The seat is attached to the post by a single stainless steel bolt. KSFC 12.9 appears on the head of the bolt.
The first time I had adjusted the bolt and may have overtightened it. The second time, the shop that sold me the bike installed the seat and tightened it to manufacturer's spec. The seat is positioned with the clamp in the middle of the rails. The seat is a Selle SMP Glider.
The second bolt broke after 23 rides averaging 75 minutes each. The first bolt lasted far longer.
I am not pushing high watts ever. I am not overweight (6 ft and 175 lbs).
Any experience with this? Any idea why the bolt fails?

UPDATE AS OF December 10, 2020
LBS talked to BMC. BMC said bolt can be torqued to 2x recommendation. LBS set it to 20Nm (2x the recommended 10Nm). I bought a torque wrench capable of 20Nm and check the bolt regularly. So far, no issues.


texts: I'm looking to replicate the montage in the photo, which involves attaching an epoxy beam to a bicycle handlebar (it's a science project), as I show in the drawing.  The beam must be very well fixed to maximize its vibrations.  do you have an idea to achieve this?


texts: All gears are going one over to the right

texts:
I’ve got a couple of problems here. I don’t know if they are all related.
Problem 1: it doesn’t always shift into the big ring in front. Usually, I have to slow my pace down for it to catch and also go to the biggest cog. But that still only works sometimes.

Problem 2: The chain won’t go to the largest big in the back when I try to get there. It doesn’t matter which front ring I’m on.

Problem 3: Similar to problem 1. When I go down to the smallest cog, the chain falls of and goes between the smallest cog and the frame. Basically, everything is shifted one to the right.

Any solutions?  The bike wasn’t very expensive to start with. (Surprise, surprise). It’s more cost effective to fix it myself than to take it to a bike mechanic.


texts: Chain skip on new chain. Cassette has only 3200 km on it

texts:
I replaced a worn chain the day after the chain indicator check showed 100% wear. I replaced the 8 speed 52 full link chain with 52 + a half link plus a quick connector. The quick connector is fully seated.

Chain skip is happening on all gears under load. The bike is a loaded work bike and did not have skip on the old chain. The old chain was last checked at 2200 or 2400 km.

Why am I experiencing chain skip?


texts: Disc brake pads are loose in the calipers, is this a problem?

texts:
I recently bought a new commuting bike (Norco ccx3) which has mechanical disc brakes (Promax DSK-715 Road Mechanical Disc). Thus far I've been pretty happy with them.

In the last couple of commutes, I've noticed an ocasionally 'ting' sound coming from somewhere on the bike when I would hit a bump. This morning I figured out what it was.

On the front brake, the pads are a a bit loose in the calipers. That is, the spring clip thing is still in there, but when there is no pressure on the brake cable, the pads can rattle a bit between the caliper and the rotor. With the wheel in, there doesn't appear to be enough room for the pads to slip out and there still is a fair bit of pad left.

Is this normal, or is there any danger to this?


texts: Is it possible to transport many (up to 12) bikes using some sort of auto-trailer?

texts: I would like to be able to use a trailer, either open-air or enclosed to transport multiple bicycles at the same time.  When I google hitch racks the maximum is 5...I am looking for a towable option...do these exist? Where can I find one?  Could I make one?


texts: I am a bit lost even to find the shortest safe way to the nearest city. How do you choose your routes for long journeys? Do you need to do compromises very often or change plans?


texts:
This may be a duplicate, but I didn't find an answer:

Are road bike disc wheelsets interchangable? For example my cx bike has DT Swiss R24 wheels, could I buy a set of Mavic Ksyrium wheels and fit them onto my bike? Thinking about it, the calliper is fixed onto the frame at a certain position, so I imagine this is possible, or is there something to watch out for?


texts: Bike lookup: Is this the bike I ordered or a women's model?

texts:
I just received the bike I ordered last week and it looks much different from the 2018 model that I tried at my local bike shop.

I ordered the latest model of "Specialized Rockhopper Base" but the top tube is so much lower. The bike shop employee said they changed the frame for this year and I can't find any reference for a bike with this geometry on the Specialized website. I feel like this is a women's bike and they are tricking me.

I appreciate any help or advice.


texts: Changing wheel size on Jamis Aurora Elite to 26"?

texts:
Jamis Aurora Elite comes with disk brakes on 700c wheels. I am wondering is it possible to put 26 inch wheels on?

Since it has disk brakes, I can't see any issues with fitting the brakes. Only problem might be the ground clearance to the pedals.

The 26 inch wheels are good for touring with load, 700c wheels ideal for daily commute. I am looking for a bike which will fit both needs.


texts:
I'm new to fixed gear riding, and my bike only has a front brake. I have noticed that when I use resistance at the cranks to slow down, rather than the front brake, eventually the cranks will begin to loosen. I've tried thread-lock and torquing them down really tight, but they still eventually loosen up again.

(edit) It's a brand new bottom bracket and the cups are not slipping - it's the crank arm bolts that are coming loose. I will take a look at the crank arm interface to see if they are rounded off at all. It doesn't seem like it would be though, since once I re-tighten the bolts, the cranks are stable. It's only through the repeated "engine braking" that they get loose.

Is this just a thing that fixed gear riders deal with, is it a mechanical defect, or am I doing something wrong?


texts: Did i buy the wrong derailleur? (mech hanger/direct to frame)

texts:
I'm a total newbie with bike repair and  I can't figure out this hanger/direct to frame business. Googling doesn't help much.

Here is a picture of the current derailleur and the new one I bought. The mount doesn't look the same. I was wondering if it could still work or if I definitely need to exchange the one I bought for a more appropriate one.


texts: Ghetto Tubeless w/ Gorilla Tape on a BMX Bike or Dirt Jumper - Good Idea?

texts:
Why or why wouldn't you go tubeless on a 20" BMX or DJ bike?

Got a lot of pinch flats recently and was look for a better solution than having to buy a tube every day/

I was considering doing the gorilla tape method on my 20" single wall BMX... is this a bad idea?

From my research, I've found:

Tubeless Cons

Sidewall takes a beating in BMX / DJ causing the tires to burp (more dangerous, could cause crash)
Sometimes you want higher tire pressure (BMX street riding) and tubeless is not good for high pressures

Tubeless Pros

Lighter (by a little)
Easier flat maintenance
Better against thorns than a tube
Is able to run lower tire pressure for more grip
Cheaper in the long run (tubes are ~$10 a pop)

I mostly dirt jump with my BMX, so I see more pros than cons. Any experience or thoughts?


texts: Carbon taperd road fork - use crown race or not?

texts:
I have a 2016 Trek Emonda ALR 5 with a carbon fork. I am assembling the bike after general maintenance, and have noticed that I am missing (or: think I'm missing = am not sure) a crown race for the lower headset assembly. The fork is full-carbon and the steerer is tapered, and (surprisingly, for me) there is a bevel at the edge where the steerer connects to the crown (i.e. where a crown race would usually reside).

Does this mean that the lower headset bearing is meant to be in direct contact with the fork, with no crown race inbetween? Trying this out "by hand", the bearing does in fact rest snugly against the bevel, and there is also the regular ~2mm gap inbetween, as there should be (so that the crown doesn't grind against the frame). Is this correct, though?

See pic below.


texts: Why is a steady cadence so important? Or is it?

texts:
I read somewhere that steady cadence is a good thing but why is that?  It is analogous to running long distance where it is a good idea to set a reasonable pace and stick to it?  I would think that varying your cadence would give your muscles a chance to rest some.  I question whether the original claim is actually true.  I would think it would be more efficient to accelerate briskly then coast down, then repeat.

This "sawtooth" cadence question is interesting because with a car or motorcycle, you actually get better gas mileage if you accelerate briskly and then just coast down. For example, you are at a red light in pole position (first). The light then turns green. You then accelerate quickly up to the speed limit (say 50 MPH) and then let the car/motorcycle coast down to maybe 20 MPH and then repeat. This is actually more efficient (you will use less gasoline) than if you accelerated slowly and maintained the 50 mph. This has already been confirmed by many people that have tested it. It is also easy to confirm yourself, especially if you have a real time mileage display. It will be at maybe 10 MPG for a brief time while you accelerate then vary between 99 and and some lower number as you coast down.

Ok now to bikes. It seems to make sense that for a bike a similar thing should happen. Imagine a person pedaling an average bicycle 10 MPH on level ground with no wind. The amount of energy expended by the rider depends on several factors including what gear they are in. Imagine they are in the proper gear vs. much too tall (high) a gear vs. much too short (low) a gear. Problem is in the low gear energy is being wasting pedaling faster than is needed (for example 150 cadence). This is a "subpoint" I am trying to make related to the main point of "sawtooth" cadence I am working up to.

If I pedal 10 miles at 10 MPH at near constant cadence, that will be 1 hour straight on pedaling. How can my muscles ever get a rest? Compare that to pedaling up to 20 MPH quickly (briskly) and then coasting down to 3 MPH and then repeating. Here I use my muscles for a quick burst then spend most of my time coasting. Here my muscles get a good rest and the number of actual crank rotations is far less. 10 miles on my bike in my favorite middle gear (34/20=1.7) with my 26" diameter tires would require about 4500 crank turns. I suspect using the sawtooth cadence method would require far less, possible only 1/3rd or about 1500. It would be an interesting test to have someone make the trip using both techniques and report their level on fatigue afterwards.

Someone mentioned about pedaling then coasting a lot will make me look like a kid on a BMX bike. Well kids are generally lazy. Maybe they figured out it is easier to pedal and coast so that is why they do it.

Another analogy is at my workplace. Can I get more work done if I work hard but take several breaks or if I just work straight thru without breaks but I get more tired that way? For me, I need the breaks to stay productive.

Maybe for younger riders a steady cadence is better but I am wondering for the 50+ crowd if sawtooth is actually better.  I suspect it is.


texts: What brands of repair stands are sturdy?

texts: I'm considering getting a repair stand, used if I can find one. Aside from the obvious (Park Tool stands), which ones are well-made? I'd like to try and snag a good one on an eBay auction if I can for very little money, but I don't want to waste my time with a piece of junk that will fall apart on me.


texts: I started setting my fore/aft by using the "hands off" method (being able to balance leaning forward with no hands). This occurs with the tip of my seat 8.5 cm behind the BB.  But, at this point, when I get low, in the drops or aero bars, my speed & power drops like a rock.  Moving back to 9 cm, I can get very low, without power loss.  At 9.5 cm, my power drops significantly when I get into an upright position!  (At least I know at what setback I'm the fastest!)  But, does this sound right?  Is it normal to have such a small range -- or, nearly no range, in this case -- in which I can efficiently pedal?  Or, does this indicate a problem with my fit?   (If I raise or lower my seat just 5 mm I also experience a significant loss in speed/power.)  This also makes me wonder how time trialist get in to such a forward position.  If I did that, apparently I'd end up going backwards!  Any ideas?


texts: I bought a used mountain bike and it does not have a caliper or a brake lever for the front.  How can I go about finding out what will work on this bike and where is a good place to buy online?


texts: Is there conventional wisdom why bikers don't use mirrors on both handlebars in the same way as exist on a motorcycle or moped? Having both mirrors would seem to provide much better coverage which would be useful in traffic and/or riding a fast ebike.


texts: Rear disc brake rotor rubbing against caliper frame mount?

texts:
I have bolted the rotor to the rear wheel hub and the caliper mount to the chainstay , however...

when I fit the wheel in the dropouts, there is no space between the rotor and the mount. The wheel won't spin freely.

I can't find a solution yet. Am I using a mount of the wrong width? I haven't attached the caliper yet.


texts: Can you use a SRAM 10-speed Powerlock with a Shimano chain/drivetrain?

texts: I just bought a pair of SRAM Powerlocks for 10-speed chains. The packaging says that they can only be used with SRAM chains. Will anything nasty happen if I use it with a Shimano chain and cassette?


texts: First Cyclocross Race - Riding a Mountain Bike

texts: I'm participating in my first ever bike race this weekend. It's a cyclocross race, and I'm riding a full suspension mountain bike, because I started looking into races late this season and a fully is what I've got. Is there anything specific to know/look out for since I'm not riding a cyclocross bike? Thanks!


texts: Is a Giant TCX W wrong for me if I want to use it for around town and occasional long rides?

texts: I'm looking for a bike to ride mainly around town and hope to get up to doing longer rides (maybe Cycle Oregon).  A local bike shop is selling a Giant TCX W cyclocross for $950 (reg price $1,900).  I test rode it and like it.  Since I'm not doing cyclocross, is this the wrong bike for me?  I generally don't like the real racing road bikes as I don't like to bend over that much. Thanks.


texts: Bike keeps suddenly changes gears w/o me shifting

texts: I've noticed that there are times that my bike suddenly changes gears, without me touching the shifters. It usually happens when I'm on a hard gear and I suddenly power out of a full stop, it pops into an easier gear and my foot drops from the pedal. What's happening, and how do I prevent it from happening again?


texts: Where can I find containers to dispense bulk chain lube

texts:
So, I'm looking for drip style containers to keep in my messenger bag and my home shop to dispense bike chain lube. I want to just buy a 32oz container of lube for cheap on amazon and fill my own dispensing bottles since I need to clean a lot of chains on a lot of bikes.

http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Chain-32-Ounce/dp/B001XRW0DY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT11?ie=UTF8&coliid=IR73EP9U85298&colid=41YO2K2T7TMA

However, I have maybe one small bottle of chain lube, which I'm not sure how to refill (it doesn't appear to be made to be dissassembled). Does anyone know where I can find dispensing bottles that can be securely closed for transport with all the other crap in my bag?  I've checked a few science supply places online, but havn't found anything that would drip dispense and also have a screw cap.


texts: Considering purchasing a slightly used Hollandia Evado e-bike... couple minor questions

texts:
I am on the verge of purchasing a Hollandia evado e-bike.  It would be for me, a male, though the previous owner was a female.   From what I could learn myself, the "step through" design is used by both sexes, and this bike is considered unisex.  Here are my two questions:

Is it true that this is a unisex bike?

Is the make and model considered a "hybrid," or, if not, can I at least ride it on pavement as well as the bike trails?

Thank you in advance!


texts:
I'm looking at getting a trainer because I have next to no time to get on the road and want to start up with Carmichael's Time Crunched Training Program. Part of the program is to ride do high intensity intervals at low RPM.
I like the idea of a fluid trainer being the quietest due to training at night with a young one in the home. Also that I don't have to modify the resistance as I'm riding, but my concern is whether I can do high intensity training at low RPM on a fluid trainer. I've read that the resistance increases when the fluid thickens. And that the fluid thickens by the speed of the wheel in the chamber, so I assume that spinning at a high gear would allow for this, but I just want to ensure this is possible before ordering one.


texts: Multi directional release pedals for road bicycling?

texts:
I saw one Force model that looked like a separated part that might release, twisting your leg upwards or sideways or something. Reminded me of the toe realease on ski bindings.

Basically as many directions as possible that is adjustable all the way, with tension and float.

What I'm after in the end is getting my brain reflex to release once I know I will fall; I've falling hard on my hip a couple of times.

There is too much float on my current bike, so no way I can twist my foot out and release; as I would break my foot or something.

At least, that is what I think that my brain thinks.


texts: I have a Schwinn Tempo which has a 6 speed freewheel

texts:
I'd like to replace my rear wheel because it isn't able to be fixed to be made true once again. The bike is an older Schwinn Tempo, the rear wheelset has a 6 speed freewheel. Or so that's what the guy at the shop told me. He only had wheels with casettes, and told me I wasn't able to use one of those.

Question is, I'd like to get a new wheelset. Do I have to stick with the freewheel style? Or can I get a modern, casette type wheelset? If the latter, do I need to make any modifications? Adjustments?


texts: How many times to patch a tube before dumping?

texts:
Related: Patch or replace
  tube?

This video asserts that:

A properly patched area of a tube is stronger than intact tube area
Never patch a tube more than 3 times

Those are seemingly contradictory.

The video is just and example and motivation for this question. I have often seem people discard tubes with several patches, after they are punctured again.

Is it true that after some number of patches to a tube, it is better to dump the thing? How many?


texts: What is better, Average speed or long distance?

texts:
I am rebuilding my bike fitness and was wondering the effects of slow long distance training vs maintaining a decent average speed.

What difference it makes if i choose one of the above?


texts: Building a Dirt Jump Bike - Spanish Bottom Bracket?

texts:
I'm putting together a Deity Cryptkeeper and confused about which bottom bracket
to buy...

The specs say: spanish 73mm Bottom Bracket

Does this mean 73mm wide and 37mm diameter bearing?


texts:
I haven't cycled for many years already and long ago when I was cycling I didn't pay much attention to equipment. Now I see that many cyclists wear a certain kind of gloves - that only cover the palm and leave the fingers uncovered.

What's the purpose of wearing such gloves (and not usual gloves for example)? In what non-cycling activities can such gloves be useful?


texts:
Just discovered this very useful site, now for my 1st question.

I have a nice carbon bike with ultegra 6800 11 speed  (11-32 cassette)
I wish to use this bike on an indoor trainer (on Zwift) but wish to minimise wear.
I planned to get a spare rear wheel (Shimano RS010) 11 speed hub and fit a trainer tyre.
To save money I would fit a 105  5800 (11 speed) cassette on the RS010.

Obviously then just change rear wheel depending on road or trainer.

Ques: Do I need to stay with a 11-32 cassette or will I degrade gear changes by fitting
maybe a 11-28 ?

Will I degrade gear changes by using the 105 cassette in place of the ultegra one ?

There is minimal wear on the existing components so mixing new & used hopefully will be ok ?

Advice and your thoughts appreciated.


texts: I've just got a new bike (ordered online). It came all assemebled except for the handlebar stem (quill type) which is completely sideways. I believe I need to loosen the stem bolt and reorient it, however, the problem is that the stem bolt seems to be covered. There is a cap, I've removed the cap but I do not see the bolt. Any idea how I should fix this? Thanks.


texts: Testicles chafing on legs - are my bibs too loose or too tight?

texts:
Some context - I have a pair of bib shorts that fit me well though could certainly be tighter without causing discomfort. I have a good bike fit, and I can do 100km+ rides without saddle discomfort.

A few months after I got the bibs, this chafing began little by little. My testicles rub against my legs as I pedal, and I end up with a sore/raw spot on the outside of each one. I begin to notice this after about 40km on most rides.

I have tried different 'positioning', but they end up back in the same place (does this mean my shorts could be too loose?).

I never had this issue riding with normal shorts, nor with my old pair of padded shorts that were too loose for me.

I've found I can alleviate this somewhat by pulling my bibs down a bit, simulating looser bib straps. It seems that the tighter the bibs are, the less space there is for my junk, and the more my testicles are pushed out into my legs.

So, are my testicles supposed to touch my legs, at least during part of the crank rotation? And should I get an even tighter pair of bibs?

I've been resisting resorting to chamois cream, I'd like to solve the root issue if possible.


texts: What's the lightest complete road bicycle that meets UCI requirements (except possibly being too light)?

texts:
I've seen various claims over the years, but which manufacturer holds the record, today?

Also, what size bike and which components go with the claim?

Happy to hear about "custom" / "one-off" vs. (mass) production, but for one-offs it'd be great to know there's proof that the bike is race-proven or otherwise structurally sound.


texts: Shimano 11 speed MTB cassette on an 11 speed road hub, which spacer should I use?

texts:
I have a Shimano 11 speed mountain bike cassette and a Shimano 11 speed road hub. Without a spacer there is considerable wobble of the cassette, and I read that a spacer is required.
My wheels came with two spacers, that I measured with calipers at 1mm thick and 1.85mm thick.
Which thickness of spacer should I use?


texts:
Specificity, periodization, power meters - training for competitive cycling has changed a lot over the last  few years.

I am wondering about the effects of the movement towards training alone on the group dynamics of cycling teams, specifically local or regional amateur teams.

I've been lucky to have grown up around cycling and a few cycling teams.  As I recall, training used to be focused on frequently riding together not only for getting in the hours and miles in on the bike but for practicing pacelining and tactics.  Now, more and more people are training using power meters and following very specific workouts that are built around their idiosyncratic FTP and power levels.  This level of specificity makes it difficult to coordinate group rides that are relevant to the highly specified training plan.  For example, if my coach tells me to go out and do two 20 minute intervals in the Tempo Power level across a two hour ride with some 3 minute VM intervals, unless I have a riding buddy whose Tempo and VM levels are really close to mine we really can't ride together effectively.

So I'm curious how, or if, others are dealing with this as well?  How has the cycling team, as a social construct, had to adapt to advances in training method and technique?  Does anyone have any tips on how to build and maintain comradery and team-unity while also allowing folks the flexibility to train according to their own plan?


texts: Terminology: Is there a technical term for the paired wheels on tricycles?

texts:
Are there standard technical terms for the location of the wheels on tricycles? I was writing up an answer to another question and was using clumsy terms such as front-wheel on a delta and rear wheel on a tadpole for the singleton wheel that isn't part of a pair. I assume we could just call the singleton the drive-wheel or steering wheel, depending on the configuration although that doesn't always work.

I'm particularly interested if there is a configuration-neutral term for the wheels that are paired (front wheels on a tadpole; rear wheels on a delta). They are what make tricycles unique in being located side-to-side of the rider and they are unique in having single-sided hubs, etc. Are they collectively called the paired wheels, side wheels, or something else? Or is there no agreement and we have to specify the configuration (tadpole/delta) and location (front/rear) each time?


texts: upgrading components on a Brava late 80 early 90

texts:
I want to switch to STI gear shifters for this 7 speed bianchi brava, that has sun tour components.  I know that sun tour is not compatible with Shimano.  I also would like to upgrade wheels, etc.  any suggestions for the STI and derailed?   I have end bar shifters which i feel are not safe while riding.

nancy elliott


texts: Are 700 x 28 , 700 x 32 and 700 x 35 tires interchangeable?

texts:
I have a cyclocross bike with Alex ATD 470 Disc rim with TCS (Tubeless Compatible System) currently mounted with Vittoria, Cross XN, 700 x 32c tires. However tires are a bit worn out and I want to be driving a bit off road during the winter.

My question is whether the 700x32 tires would be interchangeable with 700x35 for winter and with 700x28 for summer?

Thanks in advance. I understand that technically this should be possible, but whether it is okey to do that, since I believe that in certain occasion I would have to overinflate tire ( 700x28 ), right?


texts: When I shift to the smallest cog, it's suddenly too loose

texts:
The other day I was riding with the chain on the smallest cog in the back (and the middle chainring in the front) and suddenly something felt like it slipped and the chain was suddenly way too loose. It felt almost like the chain had fallen off, but it hadn't.

I realized that as long as I stay in the next-to-smallest cog in the back, or any other cog actually, things are totally fine. But as soon as I get it to shift to the smallest cog (which doesn't happen all the time, but that's another problem entirely), again it's like I'm suddenly in the lowest gear possible.

In that smallest cog, as I make a full rotation, about half is totally loose, and the other half feels a bit more normal, only to return to being way too loose again.

Sorry if this makes no sense--I'm happy to clarify. I can't seem to see what's causing this problem at all. If I get off my bike and turn the pedals myself in the smallest cog, it looks and feels totally normal.

Thanks for your help.


texts: Any MTB trigger shifters that work with Shimano RD-4600?

texts: Are there any MTB style flatbar trigger shifters that are compatible with Shimano 4600 road components?


texts: Changing Shimano Tiagra 12-28 cassette to 11-32

texts: I currently have a Merida Scultura 300 which comes fitted with Shimano Tiagra 50-34 crankset and 12-28 cassette. I'm struggling up some big hills in my area and want to change to a 11-32 Tiagra cassette. Is this a straightforward like for like swap or do any alterations also need to be made. Thanks in advance


texts:
I have a Schwinn Circuit that I got years ago from my father. I'm almost positive it is a 1987 or 1988 model based on when I remember him buying it.

It is red, with white leather seat and handle bars. It has a Sante gearing I believe and Cinelli handlebar. The frame is Columbus.

I don't have pictures right now, but hopefully this is sufficient to identify it. If so, what year is it? If not, what more information would be needed.


texts: Frame not faced for BB. Strip the paint or leave as-is?

texts:
So I just got my new frame from the LBS. They were supposed to face the frame, but only faced the head tube (hopefully, can't check it since the headset is already installed.).

Sadly, they didn't face the BB shell.

I'm tired of bringing my bikes to LBS and getting them in a worst shape than they were before (tried 4 different), so I'm not gonna go back for facing.

I'm planning to install a square taper BB. I understand there's nothing like a properly faced BB shell, but no LBS here in Belgium seems to be willing to do that kind of stuff, saying "it's not necessary". So, which of the two following option is the best (or least worse, as it happens)?

keep the frame as-is and install the BB
strip the paint with a knife?


texts: Do I need to chase a thread before installing a bottom bracket on a new frame?

texts:
Currently I'm building a new Surly Cross Check, and it needs a 68mm BB (english threaded).

Furthermore, I plan to use a cheap $15 shimano BB with JIS square tapered interface, nothing special.

Do I need to bring my frame to a LBS and ask them to chase the thread? or I can just use a toothbrush and some soap to clean the thread?

EDIT 1:

Is Chasing necessary? or is it an optional process to allow the BB fits better?

EDIT 2:

picture:

The ink splat is because there's a hole for dérailleur cable hanger.


texts: How do I get rid of the noise on my Hayes Stroker Trail brakes

texts:
I recently bought a new bike that came with Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic brakes.  From day one they were squeeky and not very grippy.  I wrote it off to the burn in period that most disc brakes require.  But after a few hundred miles on them now they are just as bad.  I have bled then in hopes that air in the line was causing the problem.  I got several air bubbles out of the line which helped with the squishiness of the lever, but alas the brakes are still noisy and lack that braking power that I have had with other disk brakes.

I have read a little on this problem and some say that it is just the nature of this brand of brake.  Has anyone found a solution to fixing the squeel, short of buying better brakes.


texts: I'm interested in adding mid-bar brakes to a Salsa Vaya Deore. Is it advisable to add them only for the rear wheel (not both the front and rear wheels as is more common)? Are there clear downsides to doing this?


texts:
I've noticed a problem with the brake lever corresponding to the rear brake for a cheapo kids bike i'm working on. After squeezing the brake lever it won't full return to its resting place. This was actually causing the brake to rub slightly until you pushed the lever back with some force.

After unhooking the brake cable I can confirm the issue is with the brake lever itself. I hit the inside of it with some WD40 and messed around with a screw that the lever pivots off of (without really knowing what I was doing). This helped a little but its still grabbing the back wheel.

Has anyone experienced this before/know what to do?


texts: Wheel position in track-style horizontal rear forkends

texts:
I recently acquired a cheap used single speed bike with track-style horizontal rear forkends.

My question is, how far back in the forkend can I safely position the wheel, before it is too far back?

I recently replaced the chain and made it a few links longer, but I'm wondering if I made it too long and need to remove a link in order to move the wheel farther forward.


texts: Which bolts and nuts to use to install Osymetric chainrings to replace Shimano Ultegra R8000 chainrings?

texts:
I would like to install 52-38 Osymetric chainrings instead of my 52-36 Shimano Ultegra R8000 ones.
I've bought the Osymetric chainrings and tried to install them, but I realised I need bolts and nuts to install them (rookie mistake!). That's because the Shimano Ultegra R8000 comes with integrated nuts, therefore I cannot use them.
And now I'm not sure about which bolts and nuts to buy:

Those fancy ones but according to Shimano's documentation, it's only for 46-36T chainrings (from Shimano I assume?): https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets/shimano-ultegra-fcr8000-gear-fixing-bolt-nut-set-m8-x-101mm-y1w898090/
That would be nice that they fit, because like that the design of the crank will follow.
Those normal ones: http://shop.osymetricusa.com/CHAINRING-BOLT-KIT-ROAD_p_46.html
Other ones?

The documentation by Shimano about the R8000 chainrings: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-R8000-4256.pdf
How can I know bolts and nuts will fit on my Osymetric chainrings? Will the fancy ones by Shimano fit on my Osymetric chainrings?
Thanks for your help!


texts: How often do you need to lubricate alloy seat posts

texts: I own two tourers which I normally relubricate their aluminium alloy seatposts every spring with high quality grease. Due to moving to Cambridge and the coronavirus outbreak, both cycles are being kept safe 10 miles away but if I miss this lubrication will their seatposts become seized?


texts:
I recently purchased my first MTB, a Rockrider 560, and I'm curious to know how much a roughing up can it take?

For example, can I ride up and off kerbs without wrecking the tires? What about bunny hopping? Is that going to pummel the bike?

Tangentially related: My first ride with the bike (about 2 hours on off-road) was done without checking tyre pressure or if the new bike's chain was oiled properly. I take it this isn't going to have disastrouse consequences for the bike?


texts: What are the differences between Specialized Targa and Henge?

texts:
Namely I am interested in such data:

length
the width of the nose
I couldn't find a picture of Targa from the side -- is Targa (looking from side) a flat saddle? (Henge is not)
is the shell flexible or rather rigid (don't confuse with padding) -- for example I would say Specialized Romin is super rigid

Probably the only differences I know are the weight, price and overall look. So if you know more important differences, please let me know.

Thank you in advance.


texts: I am looking for a used road bike and came across two of comparable prices. Which is better and are they are good deals?  Both have low mileage and both are in great shape. 2013 Trek Madone 5.1 or 2015 Cannondale SE. asking price for Trek is $1300 and $1200 for Cannondale.


texts: Internally-geared hub and chain case: running away from maintenance chores and grit damage

texts:
First off, the context of my question is 80% urban commuting and 20% weekend road trips of up to 70km, with a bit of casual trail riding mixed in. I ride my bicycle for transport and I value minimal maintenance and frugality a lot!

With that goal in mind, over the years I've noticed that besides punctures it's drivetrain wear that causes the most damage (because of rain and winter weather). I admit I've neglected to maintain the chain lots of times and rode for weeks with poor efficiency, increasing the wear on the parts. So I thought of tackling this issue on my next bike by going with an internally-geared hub and chain-case. (I will probably get the chain-case custom-made in a workshop¹). Speed and performance are not important, reliability and versatility are. Currently I ride single-speed.

What I hope to get out of it:

Nearly 0 maintenance
No maintenance after a ride through rain/sleet/snow
Longer-lasting parts
Better chain clearance, more protection from rocks/curbs/sticks
Always clean hands and pants
Puncture repairs that are still simple to do

However there are trade-offs involved. Compared to the standard derailleur setup there's:

Increased weight – I love light bikes and packing light
Decreased gear range – will it be enough if I want to take a trip in the mountains?
Lower availability of parts – in case something happens on a tour
Price – definitely can't afford Pinion or rohloff. Alfine 11-speed tops.

My question is: am I overreacting to the maintenance needs of an exposed drivetrain? Would going internal be justified, or should I stick with the more common derailleur setup... perhaps there is some lubricant or other products that protect it better that I don't know about?
What about if we're talking about a folding bike (20" wheels)?

1. Said workshop is run by a friend, so I may get a better price. I don't really care as much though, because of the IKEA effect.


texts: I am 6ft and riding a firefox kompac. My speed never crosses 18kmph

texts: What is the difference of having larger no of teeth in the front derailleur? does it help in speed and distance covered? Suggest a good hybrid on which I can achieve faster speeds? My budget is $700.


texts:
I replaced the fluid in my hydraulic disc brakes as they would not work within the first 10 minutes of cycling and would gradually sharpen up. I suspect they had air in the system.

They were sharp for about 2 weeks after replacing the fluid, but now my front brake has almost no stopping force.

How do I determine the cause of the issue?

Should I replace the fluid again?
Could there be a leak in the system?
Do I need to replace the tubing/screws?

Thanks


texts: If you want some versatility regarding a bike (I have a Fuji sportif) what sort of wheels should I be looking into? I know there is some technicalities regarding road vs cx riding but if the bike can do both what could I use as a global use?


texts: 105 R7000 front derailleur with 105 5800 crankset

texts: I was thinking of upgrading my Tiagra derailleur with new 105 FD-R7000, but then I read that it might not be compatible with my 105 5800 crankset because the new R7000 crankset has different spacing between chainrings. Will I have a problem if I upgrade to a R7000 front derailleur with 5800 crankset?


texts:
I have a 2018 Domane SL5. I would love to get into bike touring and I love this bike. It is very comfy to ride and I can imagine that it would be great for the distances I'm planning to cover on my tour.

The bike seems to have mounting points on the rear for panniers. Trek sells panniers, but I've been unable to figure out if they are for the Domane.

Does anyone know if you can fit standard panniers or a rack on there? It would be for carrying a tent/sleeping bag/etc.

What would the max weight be that it could carry?

Has anyone done this on a Domane?

Thanks.


texts: Can the Tensioner Spring go Bad on a Rear Derailleur?

texts:
My bike chain has been "skipping", so I've gone through the obvious:

I replaced the chain
I replaced the smallest cassette cog, which was showing significant wear

After my replacements I noticed what the real problem was. Every once in a while, rather than the chain being pulled into the valeys of the rear cog, a chain link land on the tooth, and will not roll into the cog's valley and engage. Each subsequent link of the chain will land on a tooth. When the last engaged link begins to leave the valley, all the disengaged links will be snapped back into engagement by the rear derailleur.

What's going on here? Is my rear derailleur's tensioner spring just too old?


texts:
How to pump this bicycle tire with this pump?

In general, what are some good material to read to become well knowledgable about bicycle pumps?


texts: Mystery little bolt fell off near rear axle

texts:
Hi All! Please help with advice. I was doing some regular brush cleaning on my new Diamond Mission Pro bike that I purchased off the diamondback website (less then month old). A little bolt near rear axle that screws into the frame just fell off under my brush when I felt it was loose and touched it with my hand…

Should I try to replace anything under the warranty?

Thanks a lot in advance!


texts: Which chainring/sprocket for use with a Sturmey-Archer X-RF8(W) IGH?

texts:
To increase the development range on a folding bike, I'd like to replace its three-speed SRAM IGH with a Sturmey-Archer X-RF8(W) IGH.

The page says that it accepts a "20 to 23 or 25 teeth sprocket".

I read somewhere about IGHs that they impose a limit on the chainring/sprocket ratio because of the torque: Does someone know what the limit is for that IGH, so I know which chainring/sproket to get?

I'm thinking of using either a 44T chainring + 20T sprocket combination, or if space allows, using a compact 50/34T chainring and a 20T sprocket.

Thank you.


texts: Thru axle on unthreaded cyclo cross frame

texts: I have recently purchased a cyclocross frame to take front M15*100 and rear M12*142 thru axles. The frame has no thread in front fork and rear for the thru axles. What axles do I need to purchase and where are they obtainable?


texts: I bought the bike second hand. It has an aluminium frame and carbon forks. It has all the Orbea decals but nothing with the model name. Hoping someone recognizes it.


texts: Gates Carbon drive on a Trek FX-S5 (Commuter)

texts: I've been looking at the Gates Carbon Drive and was interested to know if it would it be possible to put a Gates Carbon drive system on a Trek FX-S5 ? I'm planning to use the bike mainly for commuting to work. So want to avoid the Oil/Grease/Chain mess without getting into a Lycra suit.


texts:
Working on rehabbing donated bikes for Christmas Anonymous, I regularly encounter bikes where the rim brake pads have hardened to the point that the brakes are ineffective.  We have a stock of salvaged pads that we've generally drawn from as replacements, but that stock is getting pretty thin.

So I took a pad from a bike (a BSO with relatively conventional cantilever brakes, which is the most common config we see) and visited a local bike shop.  Here they sold me a couple of pairs of Shimano BR-CT91 pads.  These were a pretty close match in terms of appearance -- the actual pad is a hair shorter, and the mounting shaft lacks the ribbing of the old unit, but otherwise pretty close.

But when I went to install the pads they wouldn't go in.  The mounting shaft of the new pad was ever so slightly larger in diameter than the old one, so it simply wouldn't fit.

I'm suspecting that the Shimano pads are intended for V-brakes, not cantis.

So, the question is:  What different configurations of brake pads are there, and how do you tell them apart?  And is there any terminology (other than obscure manufacturer's part numbers) that will distinguish one type from another?  (This is particularly important if we want to order some replacement pads online.)


texts: does anyone know any forks i can fit on my specialized pitch XC bike

texts: so I'm looking to get a new for fork for my Specialised pitch, and it's a quick release wheel so need quick release forks, does anyone know any forks?


texts: Feasibility of keeping an Electrical Bike in poor (wet) storage conditions

texts:
I'm looking to buy an ebike for my partner, and have been researching how best to store them to protect them from the weather.

We live in a south-facing house in a New Zealand city notorious for its southerly storms and icy horizontal rain. There is no shelter at all on the outside of the house, and there's very little space to store a bike on the inside. The current (pedal) bikes we have are both stored outside.

The advice I see online for storing ebikes seems to be some combination of old, somewhat contradictory (geared towards different levels on the hobbyist - true-believer-enthusiast scale) and geared towards places with deep freezing winters, which we don't have here.

My question is twofold:

Are there makes of Electrical Bike out there that can stand up to being out in the elements for extended periods of time?

If not, how much rain abuse can a typical ebike get away with before it starts to get damaged?


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I just purchased a tire floor pump with a gauge for my bike. The gauge seems to start off at 0 PSI when I connect the pump to the tire. So, do I need to use a separate tire gauge to first measure the current pressure of my tires prior to using the pump so as not to over-inflate them?

Additional info: I purchased the Serfas TCPG Bicycle Floor Pump and the gauge does not move at all when the hose is attached until I start pumping. Not sure if that's correct or if I'm doing something wrong.


texts: I recently spilled some brake oil on my brake pads and now they barely work, and they squeak (which I believe is normal for contaminated pads.)


texts: I have recently bought a new bicycle and the left Shimano Revo shifter (3 speed) is not shifting, what can I do?


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There are many questions that deal with routine/ preventative maintenance (including this one which is probably the most comprehensive Optimal Maintenance Schedule) but none deal with issues related specifically to mountain bikes.

Not all of us have access to a team of mechanics who rebuild our bikes for each weekend/ race but still want to get the optimal performance out of the components on our bikes.

Performance degradation is a continual process, I'm not going to notice a marginal decrease in performance over the sort term, but over a couple of months my brakes won't feel as good, my gear changes won't be as crisp and my suspension won't ride the same. I check over my bike after each ride and lubricate, tighten and clean as required to keep it running well and safe (I will rebleed the brakes if required) but know there's stuff I can't afford/ be bothered to do each week or month.

What I would like to know is when I should be anticipate carrying out more intensive servicing such as:

Suspension - oil and seal replacement (I have been told anecdotally that it should be every 35 - 50 hours)
Brakes - rebuild
Pivots - bearing/ bushing replacement
Rear derailler - rebuild, replace bearings/ bushings
Wheels - bearing replacement

Working on a premise of waiting until there was a definite failure or significant loss of performance would mean that I wasn't getting the most out of my bike overall and may in fact lead to my bike being out of service when I want to ride it!!


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I'm just back from hospital!

I was having fun in a skatepark with my trials bike, and something quite unfortunate happened. Basically, my thumb flexed the wrong way around.

That won't stop me though, and I plan to go back as soon as the doctor allows.

But I wish I could protect my fingers, at least from flexing the wrong way around.

Is there any glove or bandage that could help me?


texts: Crank Arm Compatibility - Shimano Ultegra 6800 and R8000

texts: Does anyone know if an Ultegra 6800 left crank arm will work on an Ultegra R8000 crank? I'm looking at upgrading my road bike, and I'd like to move my current crank-arm power meter over to the new bike rather than spending even more money. Thanks!


texts: Servicing full suspension bike after long period of not being used

texts: I bought a new bike about a couple of years ago, rode it about a dozen times and haven't been on it since.  Should I perform a full service on the bike (replace seals, oil, bleed the brakes, etc.) before riding it again?


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Background I have an 8 speed 26" freehub/cassette based wheel on my MTB.   It runs a 7 speed MTB cassette with a spacer and 7 speed shifter.  It works fine.

I also own a 20" folding bike that has a 6 speed freewheel.  I wish to increase the gear range from the current 14-28 freewheel to both larger and smaller.  However 6speed freewheels are expensive and only available in 14-28 or very similar ranges.

I also have a loose hub with a 7 speed freehub.

My plan is to put the 7 speed hub onto the MTB and use the 8 speed hub on the folder, with a new wide-range MTB cassette like an 11-32 or 11-34 and a new 8 speed shifter.

I understand that the folder's 20" wheel needs a complete rebuild onto a cassette-based freehub hub.

Question Do I have to take the 8 speed hub from the MTB wheel (meaning two complete wheel rebuilds) or can I swap the 7 and 8 speed freehub bodies off the hub, which will mean only one wheel rebuild ?

Similar to Can I replace a 9spd freehub with a 7spd one? but not quite the same


texts: Can I intentionally overfill my hydraulic brakes to adjust contact point?

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I have a bike with SRAM Apex hydraulic disc brakes. They do not have contact point adjustment, but I want the lever to firm up earlier in its travel. Can I just overfill my brakes with fluid to adjust contact point?

If so, what would be the best way to do it? I do not want to overdo it and be unable to fit the pads and rotor back in.