texts: When replacing brake pads, brake loses its grip

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I wanted to replace my front wheel disc brake pads (Shimano BR-M785).

For the purpose, I removed the front wheel and removed the existing pads. Then I tried to place the new pads and found out the would not fit properly.

After asking, I was advised to "push the pistons back to the callipers", This is, to use a non-metal device to push back to their place the two circular pressers (pistons?) that where outstanding preventing me from inserting the new pads.

Sure enough, after doing this I could install the new pads. Placed back the wheel and now when I brake there isn't enough pressure to cause any effect. The brake pedal is totally loose, as if there was nothing to brake with. Looking carefully, it seems that the pads are moving slightly and touch the brake disc, but nothing enough to make it brake.

Any advice? No liquid has leaked, nothing seems broken.

I'm sorry I don't know much about any of this, I though I could save some money doing it myself... seemed easy enough.

Thanks,


texts:
I've been using SPD pedal (PD-EH500) with SH56 cleat
I just got a new pedals (XTR 9100) and adjusted the tension to the lowest setting.
I find it very hard to remove the shoes from the new pedal even though I set the tension at the lowest.
Is it possible for an SPD pedal have a defect in adjusting the tension?
Or maybe the XTR pedals are too high end, and it's doesn't match well with SH56 cleat?
Or something else?
What should I look for to fix this?


texts: Reversible but not symmetrical lower plate in seatpost

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I have an old seatpost that was removed from its original bike quite some time ago, now I want to use it in another bike, but I don't know if the lower plate should be positioned so it extends behind the top plate or so it extends in front of the top plate.  Pictures will describe it better.  Here the bottom plate is positioned so it extends toward the back of the bike:

And here the plate is flipped around so it extends toward the front of the bike:

I can't remember how I had it positioned when I was actually using it.  Does it matter which way it's set?  If so, which is the right way?


texts: Is it possible to commute 34 km (21 miles) daily?

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My work is 17 km (10.5 miles) from home and I am wondering if it's possible to commute daily by bike. I live in the Netherlands so the roads are bike-friendly. Google predicts it takes 52 minutes (one-way).Do you think it's an accurate prediction?

I am 25 years old, weigh 80 kg (176 pounds or 12.5 stone), and I am 183 cm (6 foot 0 inches) tall.


texts: Size of clamp for Fizik Vento Argo R1 saddle on Specialized CG-R seat post

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I have a 2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Disc with a CG-R seatpost, and recently bought a Fizik Vento Argo R1 short-nose saddle for it.
Knowing it has ovalised carbon rails and not the standard 7 mm alloy rails, I ordered a different clamp for 7x9mm rails. I was dismayed to discover, however, that the Vento Argo R1 actually has 7x10mm rails.
Will this work? Is it safe? Is there another clamp I can put on a CG-R seat-post which is specifically meant for the rails on the Fizik saddle?


texts: What is this headset's name per the Standardized Headset Identification System

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The Park Tool website has a page describing the standardized headset identification system.
I would like to confirm that I've understood it properly. Is this bottom  section of a press-fit headset shown in the picture a ZS56/40?
NOTE: I've taken measurements with inexpensive digital calipers and the fractional component of the value can change significantly depending on how much force is applied when turning the thumbwheel.


texts: Rear derailleur does not shift onto sprockets 2 and 6

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On a 3x7 gear 1990s Trek 800, the rear derailleur skips the second-smallest and second-largest cog, but goes into the smallest and largest ones. How to fix this? Shifting towards larger cogs, the derailleur puts the chain onto all cogs, but shifting away from the largest, both 1 and 2 on the indexed shifter keep the chain on the largest cog. Shifter 3 puts the chain on the third largest cog. Sometimes for smaller cogs the shifter number differs by 1 from the cog number (shifter 6 keeps it on 3rd smallest cog) but shifter 7 puts it on the smallest cog.
It may have been caused by my incompetent adjustment of cable tension after the derailleur started having difficulty going onto the largest cog.
Bike bought new, all original Shimano components, little used, kept in a garage. No rust. Haven't changed chain in decades but not much stretch (~1/16 inch per 12 inches).
Derailleur cable looks clean, no rust or dirt visible. No kinks or other visible problems. Rear derailleur pivots and hinges are moving freely. Pushing on each jockey wheel's edge moves the edge about 1mm. Not sure if that is too loose. No visible wear, unsurprisingly given the rest of the drivetrain is original and not that worn. Moving derailleur by hand or by cable pulling is easy - it goes into all the gears. As far as I can tell by eye, the derailleur is straight (both viewed from above and from behind). The 2-3 sections of the chain line up behind each other.
Looking for cheap or simple solutions first.


texts: Why can compact frame in road bikes be made in less sizes than the traditional frame?

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When I read about Giant, they talked about how in the past road bikes have to be in like 10 incremental sizes, but Giant had an idea from a mountain bike (which usually only have S M L sizes) to make road bikes with compact geometry so that it can be made with bigger jump in sizes.

How does this work? why a traditional frame can not be made in the same jump in sizes?

No matter how I compare the frames, I can't wrap my head around how a compact geometry can cover wider possibility of sizes that the traditional frame does not. The head tube angle is the same, the seat tube angle is the same, so raising or lowering stem and or seat post will be no different regardless if it is a traditional or compact. It is not like compact geometry can have adjustable stack and reach.


texts:
I've seen fixies with internal hubs, but a non-freewheeling rear wheel with deraillers seems to be unrepresented:

            |        Freewheel?        |
Derailler?  |      Yes      |    No    |
      Yes   | Standard bike |    ??    |
       No   | Single-speed  |  Fixie   |

Practicality aside, is there a mechanical constraint involved here? What happens if you try it?


texts: Is it really going to damage a bike to wash it with a hose?

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I was chatting to the guys at my LBS the other day about how they get my bike so clean when I take it in for a service. They said they use compressed air to clean it.

They warned I shouldn't use any high pressure water because it can get into the sealed bearings and cause damage. I also noted on the user manual for Campag cranks (right at the end) that you should "Never spray your bicycle with water under pressure".

How much of an issue is this? Rinsing the bike with the hose is such a convenient way to wash off loose grit and then the soap after washing. How do you clean your bikes?


texts: How can I upgrade a Shimano FC-TX70 crankset?

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I need to replace a Shimano FX-TX70 crankset, "DualSisIndex", 42-34-24.

However, I'm quite lost on the Shimano website, and I'm not so sure which part to choose as a similar replacement...

Would someone be able to help?

Thanks


texts: The pie plate / dork disk between the cassette and spokes on my bike cracked from age and I had to remove it. I'd like to get a replacement but I can't seem to find any online. Also, do I just need to get one based on the largest cog or is there anything else to consider?


texts:
Cycling home in the dark a car pulled across me to enter a super market car park. Apparently the car that let him cross didn't remove their full beam so he didn't see me in the cycle lane and I hit the side of him.

Apart from the initial shock I'm basically OK. Hip & shoulder feels a little bruised but thats about it from what I can tell.

Bike for the most part from what I can see also seems mostly OK apart the handlebars.

We exchanged details etc a witness also stopped and gave me her details. And I had a friend come and pick me up as I was a little shocked.

The driver admitted fault and seemed genuinely concerned and offered to pay for damage to the bike, it sounded like he was a cyclist himself.

I'm not planning on any injury claims as apart from a bruised/sore hip and shoulder for a few days I reckon I'll survive.

My bike is basically my workhorse for commuting and everything in between so the quickest possible turnaround with the least path of resistance to having it fixed would be the most ideal.

Should I just take my bike to a local shop have them look it over and quote me then contact the driver, I may need to pay for it to be inspected first? Or should I go via their insurance? How fast do I need to act etc. I probably won't be able to get to a bicycle store before Friday.

(I tried to add a photo of the handlebars but apparently I need 10 points first).


texts: Would these upgrades give me a better bike than I could buy with my budget plus the sale of my current bike?

texts:
Thanks to everyone who commented on my previous post. I’ve narrowed my options down and would really appreciate advice on the more specific ideas I have in mind at this point.
I'm considering making the following upgrades to my 2019 Specialized Allez. I’ve budgeted about $500 (not including LBS install costs). I've listed the current specs first, followed by the set of upgrades. I would appreciate any advice about compatibility issues, alternatives, or costs (or inadvertent downgrades) I may be overlooking.
For context, I need to replace the rear derailleur due to damage and I want to replace the cassette with a narrow-range alternative because it’s pretty much flat everywhere here and I’ve found that I never use the top 2 or 3 largest gears on my current 8-speed 11-32. I don’t think I’ve ever used the 11, either. The other upgrades are for performance and safety.
So, here goes.
Current specs
Brifters: R2000 Claris
Front/Rear Derailleur: Claris
Crankset: R7000 105 with 52/36T rings
Cassette: SunRace 8-speed 11-32
Chain: KMC X8 w/ Missing Link™, 8-speed
Brakes: Tektro, alloy, dual-pivot
Wheels: Axis Sport
Tires: Espoir Sport, 60 TPI, wire bead, double BlackBelt protection, 700x25mm
Additional specs about the frame, etc. are listed here: https://99spokes.com/bikes/specialized/2019/allez
The only difference from the specs listed at that link is that the bottom bracket has been swapped for a SM-BBR60 round bracket.
Upgrades
Rear Derailleur: Replacement Claris RD, plus a new shifter cable ($32)
Cassette: SRAM PG-850 8-speed 12-23T ($30)
Chain: SRAM PC-870 Chain 8-speed ($18)
Wheels: Campagnolo Calima (cheapest I’ve found is ~$180)
Tires: Continental Grand Prix 5000 (~$105 with tubes)
Brakes: R7000 105 Dual-Pivot Caliper Set ($92)
Total Cost: $457 (on a ~$500 budget)
I'm leaning toward making these upgrades because selling my bike would probably net me at most $500, which would leave me with a budget of about $1k.
Accounting for the above upgrades to my Allez, could I buy a much better new (not used) bike at the $1k price point? Or would making these upgrades be the better option? I'm leaning toward upgrading, but please let me know if there are better new bikes at the ~$1k price point that I’m overlooking.
Upgrading to 4700 Tiagra 10-speed would cost about $260 more, which I could save for, but I don’t know that it would be worth it. I’d also appreciate any advice on this point.
Thanks!


texts: Will changing from a touring bike to a racing bike improve my energy level?

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I'm 50 and have been cycling for years, but only 25 mile rides and indoor training. I've been training for 8 weeks, adding 5 miles a week to my big ride, but at 60 miles it is taking me 4:20 and I can't seem to improve my average!

I am on a touring bike but really seem to struggle with energy. I only eat once half way but drink regularly. At my rate 100 miles is going to take me about 7 hours. I don't think I can ride for that long.

Would a racing bike make that much difference? I am cycling about 110 miles a week currently.


texts:
I've been riding a pretty well-tuned frankenbike (I call it the argos, I've had it for 15 years) set up with claris 2x8 shifters (r2400) and dura ace (7700) derailleur on the back with an old ultegra fd.  I was using bar end shifters, but I changed to a flat bar.  I ride hard in the NYC streets for 100+ miles a week. Unfortunately, my claris shifters are terrible, slow to shift, and have a crappy feel, and I want to get something that actually shifts crisply and cleanly.  I want to keep riding 8 speed because I like it and it's durable, I have a compact cassette (13-23 w 38/52 up front, the 52 is ramped/pinned, great for city riding) that I really like riding, and my bike is set up right, but the shifters are really not giving me the performance I want.  The front shifter especially is terrible.
I know that I'm probably not going to find a top quality 2x8 set, but maybe there's a 2x9 set that I can use with a jtek shiftmate 2 to run my 2x8 bike.  Here's what I'm considering:
9 speed road:
SL-R660 (which are pretty rare, and will cost a lot) with jtek shiftmate2 (+$50) ("ultegra/xt level")
8 speed mountain:
XT SL-m739 XT which will cost a lot for the rear, and I'll stick with the claris r2000 front
XT SL-m740? I think it's probably the same mechanism
XT SL-m008 (are these the same as the above?)
XTR sl-m951 which will cost ????, and I'll stick with the claris r2000 front
SRAM attack 8???
Microshift r8? (looks cheap)
9 speed mountain:
XTR SL-M970 with jtek shiftmate2 (+$50) and claris front
XT 750/760/770 with jtek shiftmate2 (+$50) and claris front
Saint 800/801/810 with jtek shiftmate2 (+$50) and claris front
I basically just want the best performing 8 speed shifter[s] and I'm willing to invest a bit (less than $200) in order to get something that is going to last (i.e.: has alloy internals, has bearings).  I'm wary of looking into current or more recent 8/9 speed flat bar shifters after my experience with claris.
I'd love to hear from people who have experience with these.


texts: Where is the grease on my front brake caliper coming from?

texts:
I've had a new road bike for three months to commute. I live on the east side of Hawai'i island so I'm often riding in the rain. A few weeks after I first bought the bike the front brakes started squealing, so I tried cleaning the brake disk with isopropyl alcohol. Unfortunately this didn't fix the problem. I took the bike to a mechanic and he found that the brake pads were contaminated and had to be replaced. This was three weeks ago. Now the squealing is happening again with the new pads, and I've noticed that my front brake isn't working as well as before when the pads were new. I checked out the brake caliper and the outside casing has a greasy layer on it, the sort that's sooty and black when you run your finger over it. No doubt there's also grease inside the brake caliper that has contaminated the pads again, and again I'll have to get new ones.

Does anyone have any idea where this greasy stuff is coming from? Or how I can prevent it from getting into my brakes? I don't know if it's coming from the rain, the road, car exhaust, the brake hydraulics themselves, or somewhere else. My rear brake hasn't had any problems since I first bought the bike 3 months ago, the grease only seems to affect the front. I've also been very careful not to touch the brake disks, so I'm really confused as to how they're becoming contaminated. Any information or advice is appreciated, as I'd really like not to have to keep shelling out for new brake pads every few weeks.


texts: Replacement rear wheel to match an existing front wheel

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I found a discarded Mongoose Alta frame which has an front wheel marked Araya - Japan'.

The wheel reads 26 x 1.50 HEGP710, what rear wheel should I get?


texts: I have recently crashed my Tough Road 2 and slightly damaged the forks at the point where the pannier rack is attached. The retaining bolt is slightly lifted and I am concerned that the forks are broken beyond repair. The local shop suggests that I need to replace them......a wait of 11 weeks. any suggestions to worth while repair or replacement would be appreciated. I am currently using 29*2.1 Schwalbe Big Sam tyres


texts: Can I replace this bearing? (MTB head tube)

texts:
As you can tell from the pictures below, it's about time I did. I'm clueless as to where I'd get new a one. From this answer I think I can conclude it's an integrated one as opposed to a press-fit one, or am I wrong?(EDIT: I was actually wrong, they are press-fit ones) I figure the bottom one will also need replacing, I hope/figure they sell these in pairs?

Possibly relevant info:

Bike: Giant Boulder, no idea what year. (Can someone tell me this?)
Front shock: Rockshox Tora 318, 1.1/8 inch tube (measured at the top)

Any help would be much appreciated!

EDIT

After much more research and measuring all sorts of things (head tube inner diameter top and bottom, steerer tube diameter top and bottom), I found that these bearings are EC34/28.6 EC34/30 (SHIS), the first part being the top part and the second being the bottom.

For anyone else looking to identify their bearings, take a look at this helpful web app that helps you get there step by step:
Canecreek Headset Finder: canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

This answer can also be helpful.


texts: Can a 10-speed mountain bike chain be used on a 10-speed road bike?

texts:
I would like to use a Shimano Deore XT Chain CN-HG94 on my road bike. Are there any differences between roadbike chains versus mountain bike chains that prohibit this?

Sample Road Bike Chains:

Dura Ace CN-9000
Ultegra CN 6701

Sample Mountain Bike Chains:

Deore XT CN-HG94


texts:
I'm looking to purchase a new bike in the intermediate level and I'd like the option to upgrade all if not most of the parts over time.  That said, I've read some concerning articles [sic] and I want to make sure I don't get locked into a narrow selection of proprietary only upgrade options.  In my research I've gathered that I should avoid Specialized and Trek as these manufactures tend to employ a lot of proprietary parts, but I've not yet come across recommendations for manufactures that are easy to upgrade down the line.

So my questions is this: Which manufacturers (and if applicable models) are easy to upgrade?

  I just don't want to find myself in a situation where I spend good money on a good frame + average kit and later find that I can't build on the frame I invested in.


texts: If chain/ BB/ casette are dead can chainrings and derailleurs still be OK?

texts:
I bought a brand new bike last May (2015 Brodie Elan) and proceeded to put 11,000km on it by November (cross Canada ride plus some commuting).

Around the 11,000km mark I brought it back to the shop and they checked the chain wear, using some sort of spring-loaded Park Tool, which indicated that the chain was totally dead as well as the cassette.

I'm not clear if the chain wear gauge directly indicated dead casette, or if it was more "if the chain is this worn the casette is definitely dead too". Either way this did not surprise me as I had been experiencing some gear/ tooth hopping that I could not correct with cable tension adjustments. I asked them to replace both casette and chain.

After getting the chain and casette off they found the bottom bracket was also dead. This also was not surprising as I had been experiencing some "gravely" feel while pedalling.

So they replaced chain, BB, and casette. However, they said the derailleurs and chainrings still had life in them and did not need replacement.

I'm wondering if that makes sense, i.e. would derailleurs and chainrings be expected to long outlast chains and casettes with which they were purchased? Or should I be worried that those could be in a heavily-worn-but-not-quite-dead state that in turn would be wearing out my new chain and casette faster? How would I check?

For reference, here is what was originally on the bike when new:

CRANKS: Shimano Deore 26/36/48T
CASSETTE: Shimano Deore 11-30t
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Tiagra
BOTTOM BRACKET: Not published but I'm guessing low end Shimano

Thanks.


texts:
I've been riding for a couple weeks after years of not sitting on bike in order to strengthen my health. I've been commuting to my work and school (12km/7.45 miles from my home) about three days a week and then resting/waiting (because of seasonal rains in my area). About three weeks ago I've started to feel ache in my right forearm in area highlighted in picture and it continues to ache for a couple more days when I lift something heavy or twist my hand or sometimes even without cause. After about ten days it has gone, but when I got on bike three days ago again, it has started again. Sometimes I also feel numbness or cramps in fingers in my right hand, but when I take off my hand of bike and stretch my fingers for a couple of seconds, it will go away.
Any suggestions what could be the cause of the forearm pain? I will see my local orthopedist in a week, but I don't trust him much as he is pretty lazy to even properly diagnose something. The only thing that has crossed my mind is that my handlebar is too low for me.


texts:
Is it worth patching a tube on a mountain bike, or just replace it with a new one?

There are a lot of 1/2" - 3/4" thorns here in Texas, and I use 26 x 1.95 tubes.

Any particular patch type/brand is better? Can you recommend any methods to cut down on punctures?


texts: How to prevent my front derailleur from rubbing on my back tire?

texts:
Recently I tried adjusting my front derailleur (Shimano 6800) so that it wouldn't rub my chain when I was in the highest gear. After playing around with the angle as well as the limiting screws, I found that the chain will clear the derailleur cage, but only when the clamp bolt starts to rub against the tire.

Is there any way to fix this without getting new tires? I've already made sure the wheels were seated properly, so I'm sure that's not the issue.

For reference, the tires I'm running are WTB Nano TCS and the bike is a Motobecane Century Pro with disk brakes.


texts: I can't find a fat tire inner tube, any help would be appreciated

texts:
I am having trouble finding a fat tire inner tube 20" x 2.8 or 20" x 3.0
Please let me know if you have any idea where I can buy one or can you point me in the right direction.
thank you.


texts: assembling brackets and front crankset: how many spacers and orientation

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Recently I bought a Bull's Black Adder 1 26 Inch frame and quite some time ago got a present Shimano Deore Lx FC M-583 crankset (brackets included). I know they are not a perfect match, but still would like to assemble together.

Question: (1) What's the orientation of the brackets?

Question: (2) How many spaces on the left and the right side do I need to put? There are 4 spacers that came together with the crankset..

Comments?


texts: safety of carbon fiber bonded to aluminum fork crown

texts: I recently experienced the failure of the carbon fork on my 2001 K2 Mod3 road bike at 20 miles per hour. Yes, I was injured. My question is the bonding agent that secures the carbon fiber fork to the aluminum fork as strong and durable as the carbon fiber or the aluminum. Also I have been told by a bicycle manufacturer that the workable lifespan of "high performance bikes to be less than 10yrs, which seems to not agree with the article on lifespan of carbon fiber bikes that gives them an unlimited lifespan. I have some concern because I like to purchase my bikes slightly used thinking I can afford a much nicer bike. Example, I just purchased a Serotta Legend Ti with carbon forks & seat stays, hardly used for $3000 but am now somewhat nervous about material failure. Whats one to do to know if a bike is safe?


texts: What is the deal with the new weird Gazelle chain case design?

texts:
I was about to buy this bike (a Gazelle Arroyo c7):

http://www.gazelle-fietsen.be/assortiment/arroyo-c7
when I realized the chaincase is seemingly deliberately designed so that the chain constantly rubs against the bottom while you pedal.  Their website mentions something about aesthetics. This seems too bad to be true, given that Gazelle has a good reputation as a Dutch bike brand, and this isn't a cheap bicycle.
What is really going on inside the chaincase?
Update: I did buy the bike and 5 years later and I'm still riding it daily. The chain got noisy and I replaced it once. The cables all died, and the plastic shimano gear shifter is in bad shape but still mostly works. I've broken a few spokes but the wheels have so many the wheels stayed ride-able until I replaced them. Maybe it's notable that I haven't had a single derailment in all 5 years? For me the drivetrain has been extremely reliable. In  the 5 years this bike only stranded me once (with a flat tire, before I upgraded to schwalbe marathon pluses). Once the gearhub had annoying problems due to a known manufacturing problem in a certain manufacturing plant, and was replaced for free at my local shop at shimano's expense.


texts: What are the shimano rear derailleur families?

texts: What are the rear derailleur families, offered by Shimano? I need to replace a Shimano Acera derailleur and am trying to decide on a replacement part.


texts: What does triple-hollow construction mean?

texts: I've got a set of Sun Rhynolyte rims and in the features it says they have a  triple-hollow construction. What does that mean?


texts: Help! front wheel brake doesn't brake (Shimano)

texts: when I squeeze my front wheel hand brakes, the lever goes all the way to the grip on my handle very easily. It feels like there is no force to it. On top of that, the brake pads do not move at all when I try to brake. what is wrong with it? Please help me.


texts: MTB front and rear shimano derailleur: which shifters for drop bars?

texts:
I would like to convert flat bars of my MTB (old one: ATX 770 Giant, 7 speeds cassette with Deore DX derailleur and 3 chainrings crankset with probably DX as well) to drop bars, for touring purposes (I do not want STI shifters, and even less rapidfire system).

I am running into the following problem:
- Are Dura Ace downtube shifters compatible with the MTB derailleurs? If yes, how can I possibly set them up on the bike?
- OR would you think Deore XT thumb shifters somehow mounted on the drop bars are best (I guess it could be a bit tricky on a 40cm wide drop bar, with the necessary front light mount and handlebar bag mount)?
- OR do you think this is all silly and I should get a proper touring bike?


texts: Compatible derailleurs with Shimano RD TY22 with dropout claw hanger

texts: I have an older bike I love with a Shimano RD TY22 WD rear derailleur with a dropout claw hanger that needs to be replaced. I cannot find one listed anywhere. Are there any derailleurs available to replace this one? Thanks!


texts:
My cheap bike that I use to commute has been taking a lot of punishment (mostly from salt that's been used to melt the snow). I've been thinking about changing the rear derailleur (maybe not right now, but for the summer), but I'm not sure what replacement part to get. My bike has a 6 speed 14-28T cassette.

This is a picture of my derailleur. I think it's a direct mount, so I was thinking about substituting it with the Shimano TX-35 Rear Derailleur Direct Mount.

And this is the replacement part that I'm thinking of buying.

Would the replacement part work, or do I need one with a hanger?

Thank you very much everyone.


texts: How te remove the front wheel on a Merida misson cx400

texts: I need guidance on removing front wheel of my Merida cx400. I could not find any allen key or quick release provision.  Could you anyone please help me with tool set for the same.


texts:
Riding on roads?

I want to go to the work (in São Paulo, Brazil), by bicycle. But I live in a neighbor city, and I need to get a high traffic road.

What is your experience with this, and could it be safe?


texts: Does anyone know, which exact crankset is pictured below? It came shipped with a Bike Friday NWT (New World Tourist)


texts: Is a Vittoria Randonneur 28- or 32-622 on a hook-less 23 mm rim feasible?

texts:
My new bike came with rims that have a 23 mm flange distance. There is no hook to hold the tire's bead though. A 32-622 tire (Maxis mud wrestler) is paired with it.

I also got a set of a 28- and a 32-622 Vittoria randonneur tires.

Common knowledge (see link below) says the former wouldn't be safe. I am not entirely convinced that this is always true today.

The 28 likely is too narrow for that rim, is it?

Would the 32-622 do?

I posted a related question where I tried to abstract the problem to make it more generally useful:

What is the smallest width of a tire for a given rim width?


texts:
I've noticed the rotor on my front wheel rubs on the outer caliper's brake pad after I go for a ride.

I've adjusted the wheel alignment a few times just with the quick release mechanism to get the rotor out of contact with the caliper before I head out but every time I get back from a ride it's rubbing again when I spin the wheel.

Is there anything I can adjust to prevent the rubbing re-occurring?

The bike is a 2019 Giant Fastroad SL-1.


texts: Mountain biking: lower-back pain in "attack position"

texts:
When going downhill on a mountain bike in the "attack position", after a while I get one-sided lower-back pain that forces me to stop. How can I determine if this is due to an incorrect position or just weak back muscles, without anyone experienced to guide me?
Notes:
There is no doubt that my back is not strong enough.
The pain comes sooner if I stitch my butt out more, however, my understanding was that that is exactly the correct position.
The pain is on the opposite side to my forward foot. Is it perhaps better to train myself to use either feet forward instead of preferring one?


texts: Would the shimano freewheel removal tool be roughly compatible with a Sram/shimano cassette?

texts:
I have a bike with a sram Cassette and a bike with (i think) a shimano freewheel. According to https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/43506/38471 and other sources, in text atleast the two tools to remove them seem similar. If I were to get the smaller tool would it be reasonably compatible with both? I may need to remove the freewheel perhaps only once and I am seeing if I can use the same tool for both.

I understand that officially they need two tools. But they seem to have very similar parameters, hence the question.


texts: Carrera Crossfire 2 Hybrid Bike to a road bike

texts: I have a Carrera Crossfire 2 Hybrid Bike. I would like to convert this to a full road bike. Is it possible?, if so what changes will I need to make.


texts:
OK!

So, I have my (large) single speed in the DC area -- but have just relocated to the LA area. I'm wondering; What is the best and most economical way to have my bicycle shipped across the states?

I'm hopping for an option that is $100 or preferably less.


texts:
I have a Raleigh Grand Prix and was trying to put a modern wheelset on it, but the front dropout slots are too narrow to fit the axle. Is it safe or possible to enlarge the slots? The fork is chrome plated which I hear is very hard to grind.

In response to some comments, I'm moving from a nutted wheel to a quick release. Which is really weird to not have clearance for.

To be clear, I'm referring to the axle diameter not the hub width.


texts: How do I get the pads out of my Avid BB7 disc brakes?

texts:
I have never been able to remove the pads from my Avid BB7 brakes. It seems to take too much force to get them out, I figure I missed a step somewhere, or I'm doing something wrong. I can't figure it out.

The official instructions say "Turn both adjuster knobs all the way out (counter-clockwise), then squeeze the pad tabs together and pull both pads and pad spring clip straight out of the caliper."

It seems like the simplest thing in the world to do, but the pads (and the spring clip) do not come out. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. Is there a secret to this? How much force is it supposed to take? Anyone have any suggestions?


texts: I've a Garmin fenix 6 watch and was wondering can I use my watch as power meter if I connect my watch garmin bike sensors ?


texts: Trying to identify vintage English bike maker

texts: I’m trying to figure out the maker of my great grandmothers bike thanks for any help


texts: Are bicycle serial numbers no longer stamped into the frame?

texts:
I found this bike ad which detailed the serial number of the bicycle for sale. I was surprised to see its simply a sticker which is far from the indelible stamped digits and letters on frames I'd seen in days past, usually chromoly or aluminum frames however. I believe this is a carbon fiber frame so maybe those frames can't receive the same treatment without compromising their structure?  Perhaps also bike manufacturers avoid the machining costs from printing a unique serial number onto the frame itself nowadays.

Is this how serial numbers are issued for bicycles now?


texts: Why do front and rear wheel hubs have different sized ball bearings?

texts:
Conventional front wheel cup and cone bearings have 10x 3/16" ball bearings per side, whereas the rear wheel has 9x 1/4" ball bearings per side.

Manufacturers have been on a continuous quest over time, to simplify bikes in terms of ease of assembly, and of inventory.  To the point putting retainer rings on ball bearings makes 9 items into one on the rear, and saves one or two balls.  This will also speed assembly.

Seven 1/4" balls in a retainer do the same job as Eight or Nine balls outside a retainer.

I'm guessing that the smaller the bearing, the more will fit in the equivalent sized race, so the number and size are directly linked.

So why have a different size of bearing for the front vs the back?

Is the weight load on the rear is enough to require fewer and larger bearings?

Or the lack of weight on the front wheel is sufficiently different to allow smaller, possibly cheaper ball bearings?

Is there a rationale?  Or is it another of those "this is how its always been"

This has puzzled me for a while, SE lacks any relevant question, and even searching the web comes up with no good answers.


texts: I need a new front derailleur.  I have a Shimano Deore FD-M590, but am rather disappointed in it.  It's only three years old and won't advance the chain to the biggest ring.  Bike shop guy said I need a new one.  I'm never had a derailler go bad that fast.  Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement.


texts:
1 mile of elevation gain over 20 miles. This takes me 4 hours. It takes the pros 1.5 hours.

We're riding at roughly the same cadence (if anything I'm a bit faster), but they're turning over a much heavier gear.

(I know these things because I did this route on the day of a race)

I'm on a repurposed mountain bike, so I have a proper granny gear.

If I want to get faster at this climb, should I ride at the cadence that feels right (granny gear), or should I limit myself to using my middle ring of my triple, closer to the gear that the pros use?

(Not sure if this changes anything, but my bike weighs about 35 pounds, 20 more than a race-grade road bike)


texts: For a year or two, I remember there being a pretty big buzz around 29" front wheel, 26" rear wheel mountain bikes.  They seem to have fallen off the face of the earth.  What happened?


texts: mounting disk brake caliper problem: wheel doesn't spin freely, rubs outside pad, and caliper already as far to outside as possible

texts:
Problem:

I can't mount the caliper in such a way that the wheel spins perfectly freely (There's always a slight rub).
When the brake engages, the rotor bends slightly (because the caliper isn't centered...)

I can't screw the caliper in far enough over to the outside so this doesn't happen... I'm guessing the bracket, where you mount the disc brake on the fork, was welded onto the fork at slightly the wrong position (i.e. a little bent, too close to the wheel)?

Question: Can I solve this myself? If I take it back to the bike shop where I bought the bike, what should I insist on?

I have a new, Bianche Volpe disc brake bike (it's steel). Hayes CX Expert mechnical disc brakes.

I know from the other disc brake bike I have that the standard way to center the caliper is to (1) squeeze the brake closed (which positions the caliper properly) and (2) screw the brake into the bracket on the fork in exactly that position!

But I can't do step 2! It's close, but it's off... Is there anything I can do? Take it back to the bike shop I bought it from? Should I insist on a new fork? Or can they work this out somehow?

It's not so bad that the bike doesn't work, but this can't be right...

Rotor and mounting bracket: (it looks like there's a slight angle and the bracket is a bit too clo


texts: Exertion time vs heart rate or %LT(Lactate Threshold)?

texts:
Are there any tables out there that show how long a person can exert themselves at a given heart rate or %LT (assuming adequate fueling)?

events lasting up to(LT = 185):

3 hours: 170+
4 hours: 165
6 hours: 150
???
IM: 130?


texts:
On my bike, which I just built out of spare parts, the left pedal seems to constantly be coming loose. It seems to come out about 5m every time I ride ~10km.

It's an old cotter pin crank, and the pedal is a left pedal (there's an L stamped into the end of the screw that goes into the crank). The pedal has a crack in one side of the axle compartment, but I don't think that would affect it.

I thought that these pedals had left-hand threads so that the action of pedalling would work to tighten the screw? If so, why would this be happening, and is there anything I can do about it short of replacing the crank and pedal?


texts:
Does anyone know how much friction (rolling resistance) arise from the tires? I know this heavily depends on type of tire, their air pressure and the type of surface. I would therefore like to see any source describing the friction on any combination of these factors. I am only interested in knowledge that can be verified.

The reason why I am interested is to understand what the maximum potential is if developing new types of tires.


texts:
After 10 months my commute has gotten to the stage where it's quite easy and I'm looking for ways to maximise it as a workout and hopefully benefit more muscle groups. Currently it just seems to work my thighs.

I don't have time to ride for fun, but my commute is an hour each way which seems plenty. If I wanted to spend more time I could do a stomach/calf workout instead.

I would have thought it would use the calves but it doesn't seem to (I don't feel any burn in the calves).

Ideally I would like to work my abdominals while riding. Is there any way I can do this? I have thought perhaps purchasing a weight belt so my stomach has something to push against but I'm reluctant to spend the money for something that might be useless and I'd have to wait a month for shipping.

So my question is, is there a way to benefit more body parts than just the thighs while cycling?


texts: Replaced left crank arm but still comes loose?

texts: A few weeks ago I bought a new (albeit cheap) self assembly bike from a local store, this bike to be exact http://tinyurl.com/gw77p9t . After about two weeks use (one and a half hours of cycling on pavement five days a week) the left crank started to creak, came loose and eventually fell off. I cleaned the crank and applied new grease which stopped the creaking and prevented it from falling off but the crank still came loose so as to make cycling uncomfortable. I then bought a new crank arm (this crank arm http://tinyurl.com/zz3mjzr ), took off the old crank, cleaned and greased again only to find the same problem. I can't imagine what else the problem could be, any suggestions?


texts: Is it worth it to buy a bike that comes with puncture resistant tires, or add them later?

texts: Is it better to buy a bike that comes with puncture resistant tires, or get a cheaper bike that comes with worse tires and then get them replaced?


texts: I would like to upgrade the rims from 27 x 1.25 to 700c. I would like to use the same 5 speed cassette on the 700c rim (see pic below). Would any new 700c cassette hub rear wheel work with that cassette ? Also would there be any issue with the chain lining up with the cassette on the 700c wheel ?


texts:
I got myself a new 2019 Giant Trance 2. I am loving it and am doing lots of off road trails here in Texas. A typical ride for me is about 4-6 hours and maybe 10-20 miles depending on the inclines.

I've read plenty about how to clean my drive train, but not so much on frequency. I've heard that you should do it every 40 miles or so. At the same time, I can visibly see bits of dirt and sand attached to my chain. Not clumps of mud, but little grains you can see. My gut says to clean it again.

I get those bits of dirt and sand every single ride though. Is it really logical to clean it every single time? I mean, I make $70/hr and it takes an hour to clean the thing. At some point, the opportunity cost has to overcome the extra wear.

I am a noob, so I have no idea what a chain, the derailer gears, or the cassette, or gear on the crank, cost. I've got a Shimano SLX if that matters.

Should I be cleaning every time I see dirt and grit, even if that means every single ride?


texts: Is Ultegra 9 speed compatible with Sora 9 speed?

texts:
I have a 1999 Specialized Allez Comp with original Ultegra 9 components (see description). Things are starting to get old (e.g. right shifter doesn't work well). I think it is time to partially convert to Sora. But I have a few confirmation questions.

Will Sora shifters work with the brakeset of my original bike?
I have 2 Ultegra cassettes.  Would I be able to mix an Ultegra 9 cassette with a Sora chain and chain rings?


texts: Cross tires that work on street and trail

texts: I recently when on the trail with my cross bike it has Vittoria Zaffiro 32 tires, didn't take long to washout. Is there a tire out there that will work equally well on the dirt and the street since I use this bike to commute but trails are close.


texts: What do I need to get to upgrade 10 speed Campagnolo to 11 speed for a bike to be used on a trainer only?

texts:
I have a 2007 Eddy Merckx Premium with 2008 Campagnolo Chorus shifters, UT compact (50/34) crankset & rear/front derailleurs. I want to throw this onto my Wahoo Kickr and make it my trainer bike. The issue is that the bike is a 10 speed, while the trainer has an 11 speed cassette. I have the 2017 Kickr, which cannot be used with a 10 speed cassette like some of the other models. I'd like to only upgrade what I need to get the bike to work on the trainer, so I don't need a cassette or new rear wheel with Campagnolo 11 speed compatibility. From what I've researched so far, it sounds like you can put 5-arm 11 speed chainrings onto the crankset I have now, and the 10 speed front derailleur will work with the 11 speed setup, but I'd like to know for sure before I spend any money, obviously. So that, plus a rear 11 speed shifter, 11 speed rear derailleur and an 11 speed chain should get me to where I need to be, correct?
Thanks!


texts: How much is too much - spokes protruding into the rim

texts:
I just received a pair of wheels that I ordered online. They are a replacement for a 1940'es vintage bike that now only takes "wulst"-type tires, which are only available in very poor quality at very high prices. The rims are of the Westwood type.

The front wheel looks perfect, with all spokes being a bit shorter than the nipples.

But on the rear wheel almost all the spokes protrude clearly into the (single wall) rim. Most of them just a bit, but maybe 10-15 of them seem more than 0.5 mm too long and I measured the worst 4-5 of them to protrude around 1.5 mm.

Surely rim tape will cover some protrusion, but how much? Will rim tape be enough to protect the tubes from this or should I go through the hassle of returning the wheel?

I'd really prefer to just slap them on the bike and not think too much about it, but on the other hand I bought these wheels to get better tires and fewer flats.

Here is an example from the rear wheel:

A few more photos here http://imgur.com/a/DLsXp

Here is what the front wheel looks like.


texts: What kind of lubrication is used on Electra Townie 8i chain?

texts: I just got a new Electra Townie 8i and notice that the chain appears clean and silvery.  Is it supposed to be lubricated and if so, what is recommended lubrication?


texts: Attempting to Rebuild a 2000 Trek 7700 Multitrack

texts:
I have/love my old Trek 7700 Multitrack, but it's fallen into some disrepair over the years including being in a flood (thanks Hurricane Sandy!)  I've been told by my LBS that it's not worth repairing, but I'd like to give it a try even though I've never done more than fix flats.

As I see it, I need to replace my BB, repair the Rolf Vector rims (spokes) and repair/replace the hubs.  I'll have to look deeper into any drivetrain problems, but I'll assume some of it would need to be replaced.

I'm wondering if these repairs can be done for around $300?  I know that's a bit vague and that I may be better off with a new bike, but I'd like to experience stripping it down and rebuilding it.  Any words of advice?


texts: Why can't I ride my city type (folding) bike uphill?

texts:
I'm a newbie when it comes to biking. I don't plan on taking it as a very serious hobby; I'm really more of just a leisure rider who enjoys touring around town, but I'd also like to be able to drive efficiently.

I bought a Doppelganger Spiegel 214 a few days ago, and I really like it. However, I'm currently finding difficulty driving it uphill. I can't tell the slope angle exactly but I think it's somewhere above 30 or 40 of a decent stretch of road (maybe around 10-15 meters) that I'm finding a hard time driving on.

I'm not sure if it's because I don't know how to shift gears and that I'm using the wrong one, or my legs aren't strong enough (yet?) or my bike just isn't up for it. Can anyone enlighten me on this?


texts: Is there any advantage to using pedal straps over clipless pedals?

texts: Other than not having to buy special biking shoes, is there any clear advantage to using pedal straps over clipless (aka clip-in or step-in) pedals?


texts:
Sustained some damage from a chain coming off, and it's done some rather nasty damage to the paint, frame itself looks OK?
Other bikes I own have a metal plate here to protect the frame, is this not standard?
Feels and sounds solid, is it still OK to ride?
Will Specialized repair this under warranty?


texts: Do the benefits from Cycling outweigh the harm of pollution

texts:
So in riding to work on a daily basis, do the physiological benefits gained from cycling to work get outweighed by the harm that pollution does to the body? I.e. does it cause more harm that it prevents.

My concern is that when riding to work, I am breathing harder and riding with the daily traffic, so exposing myself potentially to higher levels of pollution than I would riding on a weekend day or away from heavy traffic.  This has the potential for causing respiratory issues, especially in Arizona where dust particles can cause irritation.  Does this concern negate the positive benefits such as increased respiratory capacity, reduced blood pressure, etc.?


texts: How can somebody with Type I diabetes keep blood sugar levels acceptable during and after a multi-hour ride?

texts:
I recently upgraded my bike to a Merckx EMX1 and started doing some serious riding.  I am riding 50–70km(30–45 miles once a week usually including a second cat climb and sometimes one or two 3rd and 4th cat climbs.  I have read through some of the nutrition questions and although the answers and suggestion apply in a general sense.  I have more often than not had problems of super high blood glucose after a ride, not problems with hypoglycemia.  This is because I am very worried about have a hypo while on a long ride.  I would be stuck far away from my car or possibly anywhere where I could get the instant help I need.  I am also usually alone (though I am looking to get involved with a group ride).

I am looking for some help and advice on how to effectively eat before during and after a ride.  I usually stop half way through and test my sugars to make sure I am ok and see if I need to add more food.  I don't usually drink electrolytes but I make sure to stay well hydrated.  I carry nutrition bars and energy gels on my rides, usually way more than I need.

I do this excercise to stay fit and to lose weight.  I am 185cm (6ft 1") tall and 87.5KG (193 lbs), I would like to get down to around 80kg (176 lbs).

My question is really how can I eat and take insulin effectively avoiding high and low blood sugar whilst making sure I am not eating too much that I have no net weight loss.


texts:
So the situation is, about six months ago I got myself my first full sus trail bike Trek Fuel ex7.  For the most part, loving it.
Over that time I've had a number of spills, the most recent resulting in a trip to A&E.
I might be grasping at straws here a little, but most of these spills have followed the same pattern.  Basically, when the rear shock is under heavy compression for say going off a drop off my bike kind of squirts forward out from under me.

While I'm sure this is probably largely caused by my own poor technique, I'm beginning to wonder if I don't quite have my suspension dialed in quite right.  I'm pretty happy with the say I've got, seems around 20ish% but I have no idea about the rebound settings.  I've used the recommendations from Trek but really don't have any idea if it's right for me.

So, is this a rider problem, or could/would incorrect setup be contributing?


texts: Should I get a smaller chainring or bigger cog?

texts: I built a single speed bike about a year ago, and am starting to change out parts to make it more comfortable for me. The first thing I'm wanting to change is the gear inches, which I didn't give much thought to at the time of riding. I have a 700x25c wheel with a 16t cog , and a 46T chainring that also has a 165mm crank arm. If I calculated the gear inches right, it's 79.2 in. I'm in a pretty hilly area, and I'm wanting to see what effect having a gear inch more around 70 in will have. I'm thinking of either getting a chainring that is 40 teeth or getting a cog that is 18 teeth. Is there any argument for which would be better to replace? Also, is there anything else I should be thinking about or considering when purchasing them?


texts: Preventing use of low gears while training

texts: I'd like to avoid using my two lowest gears while training for a hard and hilly cyclosportive. I am able to resist, but nevertheless do occasionally make a mistake. Is there anything I can do to safely physically prevent myself from using those two low cogs?


texts: Replacement for SR Suntour XCC, 48/38/28T, 170mm alloy crankarms?

texts:
I recently bought a revolution cross 1 and after a week I've bent the middle chain ring quite badly and the outer one a bit, I think by spitting a big rock out from the front wheel and unfortunately it then smacked right into the crankset.

I was a bit surprised (my own fault for not checking) to find that the chain rings are riveted and so I now have to buy a new crankset. I've looked around for other square taper BB cranksets with removable chain rings, but what look like higher quality components say they are for 8/9/10 speed cassettes and I have a 7 speed freewheel.

I'd like something that will not bend on contact with a rock ;) Failing that something I can swap out the chain rings on without buying the whole shebang.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Tom.


texts: Ease of Continental road wire bead tire mounting and dismounting

texts: Are the Continental road wire bead tires any better at mounting and unmounting then they used to be? Or  are they still a big pain in the ass. My buddy has some hard shell gators that are cheap.


texts: I'm trying to research fat bikes for rack attachment holes and have not seen any so far. I'm a long term commuter and must have a way of attaching my panniers to my bike. Backpacks are out because I'm a pack rat, plus I do my shopping with my bicycle and that won't work. I believe I saw one commuter with a rack that connected to his bike by attaching just above the wheel openings, but couldn't find a name on it to do some research. Can anyone offer some help? Thanks.


texts: Which parts of a wrecked bike would be OK to use or sell?

texts:
A few months ago I was in an accident with a car on my way home from work (oncoming car turned left in front of me). My bike was severely damaged, the frame broke in two and the front wheel is bent enough to be un-usable.

However, many of the other parts, the shifters, derailers, brakes, etc. seem to be in good condition. I'm considering using some and selling others of these parts. Excluding the obviously damaged parts, are there any other parts that shouldn't be used/sold? I wouldn't want to use/sell bad parts and I would be selling these with full disclosure on where they came from and what they went through. Basically I'd like to know if there are any parts that are typically damaged with wrecks like this and what I should look for.


texts: What sort of oil/lube is "Shimano Internal Hub Maintenance Oil"?

texts:
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Internal-Hub-Maintenance-Oil/dp/B00O58QCQY

I know what it is for. But what is it composed of?


texts:
I've now got a bike with 2.35" (or 60mm) Schwalbe Big Apple and feel a bit slow. There's no testing to prove this claim, but riding my fixie (25mm) the last couple of years just felt quicker/easier. Is that because the fixie is lighter (~10lbs) and has more efficient gearing or the thinner tires?

I am now thinking of going thinner, namely Marathon Supreme 40mm. I don't think I want to go thinner because I fell in love with the cushion. Will this make for a noticably quicker ride and will I lose much cushioning? Or should I just buy bigger legs?


texts:
I’ve discovered in my parts box some rim brake pads that have been there for several years. Aside from age, they are in fine shape (some are new). Can I put these on my bike, or is there hidden damage?

In other words, how long do stored rim brake pads remain safe?


texts:
I have searched through Stack Exchange and found another question about a stuck freehub, but I am confused about which direction to turn the 12mm hex wrench to loosen the freehub. It is an 8-speed SRAM freehub on a 2016 kid's bike (Islabikes Beinn 24).

There is a sleeve in the freehub that prevents access to the 12mm flats from the drive side. I cannot tell if the sleeve is removable. I have a long enough 12mm hex key to used from the non-drive side, and I have placed the box end of a 12mm wrench around the hex key. With the torque I can apply by hand with a standard 12mm wrench I could not get the freehub to budge.

Before I start increasing the torque, I want to make sure that these are right-hand threads threading into the hub body, so from the non-drive side I should be turning clockwise.

A comment on the above-referenced thread about the 12mm flats being a nut gave me pause -- I've never seen that configuration.

I live a plane flight away from any bike shop so local expertise is not available.

Thanks!


texts: What is this crank and BB on this bike? And how do I take that sort of crank off?

texts:
I have a 2009 Cannondale Six Carbon 3, which supposedly has a BB30 bottom bracket and a FSA Gossamer non-BB30 crank set. It looks like this:

I'm having some creaks when I pedal and I'm trying to see if taking off the crank set and regreasing might fix the problem. Going to YouTube and watching videos for a 'FSA Gossamer' crankset, everyone is just unscrewing a single bolt in the side of the crankset and it self-extracts. However, when I unscrew the only bolt that looks similar, the bolt comes right off really easily but nothing happens with the crank:

You can see in the picture above that now you can see right through the bike itself, so it seems there's nothing additional I could screw that would self-extract that crank. There is, however, some bolts on the arm itself:

Do I need to loosen these bolts to take the crank off? I toyed with that a little, but it wasn't coming off easily, and I didn't want to force anything without knowing it was the correct way.

Thanks for any pointers you can give!


texts: How to keep Presta valve insert from detaching after inflation?

texts:
I have Presta valves on my bike tires and for the rear tire, each time I inflate the valve, upon detachment, the insert screws off with the pump attachment and the tire deflates.  I tried about 6 times, no luck.

Here are pictures of the detached pump connector with Presta insert detached and the valve stem with no insert:

What am I doing wrong?  How can I inflate and detach the pump without detaching the insert? I had no issue with the front tire.  Is the valve broken or am I doing something wrong?


texts: Do 8 Speed Shimano Gears Actually Work Properly?

texts:
I recently refurbished a 24 speed MTB with new cables, new chain and a proper clean. No matter how much I tried I could not get the shifting to be as smooth as a 9 speed system. It had a certain clunkiness to it that wasn't present in Shimano 8 speed systems from 20 years ago. I have experienced this before with 'Alivio' and other modern 8 speed parts which made me wonder, do these 8 speed parts actually work properly?

Also, if anyone knows, are they deliberately engineered to be borderline clunky so that there is a reason to buy the better 9 and 10 speed parts?


texts:
I want to build a road/cyclocross bike with a Dura Ace 9000 rear derailleur and a matching shifter (Dura Ace 9000), but I really want to have disc brakes as well. My understanding is that a mechanical disc brake will work fine with any shifter, since it uses the same kind of cable as a V-brake, but I haven't been able to find any information about whether I can use whatever shifter I want with hydraulic disc brakes. Do I need a special kind of shifter or lever for a hydraulic disc brake on a road bike?

Update: as the answers pointed out, I do need special brifters (thanks for clarifying the term; it made googling easier and more accurate). The compatible brifters are indeed very rare and so far I've noticed that they only come as part of an entire groupset, i.e. I haven't been able to find standalone hydraulic brifters; I can, however, order a complete Shimano 105 or Ultegra groupset with hydraulic brakes (sans rotor) and brifters from certain online retailers. Secondly, what I suspected turned out to be true - Dura Ace 9000 isn't offered with hydraulic disc brakes out of the box.


texts: What speed of wind gust will cause a cyclist to swerve by 1m or more?

texts:
Today's weather forecast for London predicts gusts of 45mph. While there are many factors in determining whether its safe to ride, the possibility of getting blown into oncoming traffic rules out a ride.

Given a typical road lane width of 3m, and assuming I cycle in the middle of the lane, I'd like to know what speed of wind gust could push me close to the centre of the road.


texts: Why is 53/39 known as "standard" for road bikes?

texts:
In common cycling parlance, 53/39 is referred to as "standard" gearing for road cranksets, and most mechanics or experienced cyclists will understand that if you say you have a "standard crankset", you have a 53/39.

Why is this the case? Who or what caused cycling to specifically adopt 53/39 as "standard" (rather than 52, 51, 50, etc)?

Most bikes nowadays ship with a compact crankset, since manufacturers recognize that the majority of cyclists have difficulties turning over a 53T chainring. However, that only explains why 53/39 is not shipped as standard equipment on most bikes, it doesn't explain how 53/39 came to be referred to as "standard".

As to the "ego/testosterone" explanation, that explains why some cyclists upgrade from compact cranksets. However, there are cyclists that are more than capable of turning a 53T chainring and, therefore, their reasoning for using a 53T does not involve ego/testosterone/posturing. Additionally, this explanation doesn't really explain why 53T is the "standard" big ring, rather than 54T or 55T.

A comment on a previous question sparked this (apologies to that user as I can't seem to find their comment now).


texts: Could two identical bikes require different pin positions for front derailleur cable routing?

texts:
This is a multiple choice question, with just two choices. But please explain a bit.
Shimano's Dealer's Manual of some front derailleurs shows a "converter judgment tool".

Suppose you work at a bike assembly plant, tasked with assembling 1000 identical bikes.
The front derailleur comes with two, and only two, positions for routing the cable.
The pin underneath plate B in the figure below has two positions. The two positions (also appearing in the figure above) can only be seen if you remove the plate B.

Assuming the converter judgment tool is so fragile it will be unusable after the first use, does your boss give you 1000 converter judgment tools or just one?
A. As many "converter judgment tools" as frames, because the converter judgment tool is supposed to solve issues of tolerances in manufacturing the various parts, or
B. Exactly one "converter judgment tool". Since all the bikes you are assembling are absolutely identical. It is enough for you to invest a lot of time to choose between the two routes, and henceforth use that pin position for the remaining 999 bikes.
Depending on whether you answer A or B, this means:
If B: if a bike is shipped (during pandemics or at other times) in a box, the amateur mechanic assembling the front wheel + handlebar and tuning the bike will normally not need to order the converter judgment tool.  The pin position is the same for all identical bikes. It would be a rather serious mistake if a bike slips through with an incorrect pin position. The FD cable arrives already attached and tensioned, even if the tension may be inaccurate.
Another way of asking this question: could the mechanic at the bike assembly plant who worked on your particular bike have made a mistake and chosen the wrong pin position?
If all identical bikes require the same pin position, then one would expect a seasoned mechanic to have carefully chosen the pin position. Possibly, this can be determined during the design of the bike, and the designer can already specify the pin position before the first frame even exists.


texts:
I go to school at Lafayette, CA. Can't find the local laws here, but people sometimes shout at me to get off my bike on the crosswalk. Even though many other students ride over the cross, I'm wondering if I should not. There seems to be no problem with it, usually there aren't many people around.

EDIT: Usually I bike on the sidewalk, but started using the bike lane. There's traffic with little space for bicyclists a lot of the times, so I usually turn onto the sidewalk again. When there's a green light on the right-most lane, other bikers/pedestrians cross (move parallel with the traffic), so I follow since the direction is with traffic. I usually take this into account when biking on the sidewalk, so that I wouldn't have to stop to push the signal button. It looks like there's two paths for bicyclists to take: the bike lane when the light signal is green for cars, and the crosswalk, where bikers should disembark and walk with pedestrians, also when the traffic light is green? If so, can I ride on the sidewalk (allowed in Lafayette) and switch onto the road when the traffic light is go?


texts: How to recognise a 6-speed freewheel compatible hub?

texts:
I need to change the freewheel and the hub on my road bike and have been looking for a suitable replacement. I wish to keep my rim so I will rebuild the wheel. Also, I want to stay with a 6 speed cassette due to the limits of my current derailleur.

It seems easy to find a 14-28 6-speed freewheel. However, I haven't been able to find a 6-speed freewheel compatible hub, or at least one that states explicitly such compatibility.

My question is:

How do I know that a hub is 6-speed freewheel compatible? What measures do I need to look for to make sure that the cassette will match the length of the hub?

Here's an example of a frewheel that I'd like to match with a new hub http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-6-or-7-SPEED-FREEWHEEL-14-28-TEETH-SCREW-ON-NOT-CASSETTE-REAR-WHEEL-/121300234787?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item1c3e0eb223.


texts: What should I do about a tensioned/trued wheel that lost significant spoke tension after first use?

texts:
My front and rear wheels needed truing, so I picked up tools to do it.  Rims are DT Swiss R460: 20 spokes front, 24 back.  Max spoke tension is 1200N.
I got my front wheel to a left-side tension range of 685-889N and a right-side tension range of 685-938N, and I got my rear wheel to a left-side tension range of 540-720N and a right-side tension range of 758-991N.  Numbers are without tire or tube and after de-stressing both sides of each wheel.  I adjusted each spoke using tighten-then-back-off spoke wrench technique.  I didn't use spoke prep -- figuring it wasn't strictly necessary for an existing wheel if I was attentive and executed tighten-then-back-off correctly.
I put tires and tubes on the wheels and reinstalled them, then did 13mi Sunday.  The rear wheel felt maybe more "taut" than normal (from fresh reinflation to max 120psi?), but otherwise things went fine.
It's now Tuesday, and I figured it'd be a good idea to recheck tensions after a ride and some time.  Didn't remove the tires, just popped the bike in a stand and ran the TM-1 over a few spokes.  The tensions were much lower, 14-16 on a TM-1 versus 17-22 before for a few random left-side spokes on each wheel.  (Maybe "taut" is not actually what I was feeling in the rear wheel.)  That decrease isn't normal -- is it?
Should I just tighten all the spokes to get them to a more desirable tension range again?  Is it normal for tension to decrease so much from putting an inflated tire on a wheel?  (This answer suggests no.)  Should I remove (or at least deflate) the tires before doing so, and if so should I tension beyond 1200N assuming some loosening when a tire is added again?  (This answer again suggests no.)  Or is my no-spoke-prep tactic coming back to bite me, prior tensioning would likely have been fine if I'd used some, and I should apply some to every spoke and then tension things up?


texts:
I have recently purchased a bicycle from a second hand shop. It seems to have all sorts of different parts. The frame however has a badge and markings of 'Kontroll' made in West Germany. Doing some research I can't find anything about this make, is anyone familiar with this brand?

As it says West Germany this may date it to the 80's. It's a large frame which is handy as I am 6ft 6.


texts: Can I fit a cassette with a larger range with my Shimano Tiagra 10-speed ( GS-4600) derailleur?

texts:
I'm currently running a 2x10 shimano tiagra 10-speed drivetrain with a 50/34 compact crankset, a 12-30 rear cassette, and a Shimano Tiagra GS-4600 derailleur (that's medium cage aka road long cage) on a light touring / road bike.

I tend to ride a lot of hills and want a touch more range for tough climbs.  Can I make this work with an 11-32 or 11-34 mountain cassette or do I need to get a long cage derailleur?

It looks like I might answer my own questions, becuase the specs say, they say I shouldn't really run more than a 30t max in the rear. However, I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this and had success going past spec with this derailleur or if I should resign myself to spending more cash on a new derailleur.


texts: New to all of this. Which ranges of inner tube would fit in a 29 X 1.4 SLICK MOUNTAIN BIKE TYRE WILD RUN'R? Should I also worry about valve size? If possible, can I have a good source for learning what those numbers mean?


texts: Headset fully tightened, but fork still loose and wobbly

texts:
I'm almost done assembling my new bike :)

There is still one thing in the way though... See the headset in the picture? It was installed by a professional (or, at least a LBS owner) when I bought the frame. Kinda came preinstalled.

After assembling the bike, I went back to the shop to have the headset adjusted. And somehow they couldn't get the thing set up properly. I tried too, and yeah, let's face it, that headset is probably bad or badly installed.

As is, the bike is pretty much unrideable since the fork would wobble every time I brake.

The frame is an Intec M1, see document page 6.
It has a 1" 1/8 fork tube.
The current headset is a XLC A51AN. I guess it's an external headset, but not really sure.
http://www.intec-bikes.de/index.php?eID=tx_nawsecuredl&u=0&file=fileadmin/Downloads/SecureDownloads/ra-co/ALLE/Sortiment/INTEC/INTEC_Katalog_2015_EN.pdf&t=1428962756&hash=d367558de1db3f45634191e466256d126c14beca

There are enough spacers, allowing to tighten the top cap really hard, hard enough to almost lock the steering. Even then, the fork still wobbles. The fork tube is not cut straight, but I'm pretty sure the tube never touches the top cap.

So what are my options to fix that? (not involving yet another LBS)

What could explain why we can't adjust it? Can I fix this headset?
otherwise, which tools would I need to replace the headset with another? And what kind of headset do I need?

Also would I need to change the "fork race" (referring to the piece attached to the bottom of the fork tube, correct?) if I were to fit a different headset?


texts:
I was browsing this site http://www.fastwheelsets.com/resources-2/ and it's talking about 2 different sets of tires.
Is there a necessity to have both tires or I can go fast enough with my training tires ..... do you really feel a difference with the racing tires?


texts: Need help identifying this frame, year and original spec please. It's a Giant TCR carbon frame. Frame number is GH1B037. Stickers in down tube Giant 3 but that's all I can get at the moment. Any help gratefully received. Want to return it to original spec


texts: Sealant in inner tubes: what's the difference?

texts: I was thinking of converting my wheels to tubeless but my rims and tyres are not tubeless ready. I just recently learned that I can add tyre sealants into inner tubes. Can it prevent pinch flats like the normal tubeless setup?


texts:
this is the bike

This is a bike I purchased and loved. I moved out of the country for a while so I sold it. I regret doing that and now I want to purchase it again but I have no idea what kind of bike it was and these are the only pictures I have of it. I also don't own any documents and the place where I bought it shut down.


texts: Broken rear axle. Why does it happen and is it worth trying to repair?

texts:
So I'm taking the time during the holidays to overhaul my commuter bike. The whole drivetrain was full of old oil, road salt and grime so I decided to take the whole thing apart starting with the back wheel. Once I got it off, I ended up with half of the rear axle in my hand and a bunch of ball bearings on the floor (I found them all eventually).

The bike has been in use for about 18 months, and there were no rust and plenty of lube inside the hub so I don't really think it's natural wear.

What could have caused the axle to break? My theory is that they pulled the nuts too tight when they built the bike.

More importantly, is this a "user serviceable part" or do I need to get it repaired/replace the wheel? Seems to me getting the ball bearings to stay in place while I insert the axle would be quite challenging.


texts: Are 32mm tires ideal for a fast commuter bike?

texts:
I am considering a faster bike to replace my XC for commuting. I am thinking hybrid/cross/road bike with wider tires. My question is whether 28mm tires are enough or if I should go with 32mm like Trek touts for their CrossRip. I won't be riding gravel roads or other heavier terrain too much, but I will need to jump to/from curbs from time to time.

Where I live I often need to ride over cobblestones and tram tracks, like this, so safety is very important:


texts: Can an odometer (magnet) be attached to an exercise bicycle crank arm (not the pedal)?

texts:
Just received from Amazon, assembled, and successfully used the following:
Folding Exercise Bike with 10-Level Adjustable Magnetic Resistance | Upright and Recumbent Foldable Stationary Bike is the Perfect Workout Bike for Home Use for Men, Women, and Seniors (Black)
I am a senior that wants to use the exercise bicycle indoors for moderate daily exercise.
I regard the purchased exercise bicycle as a good deal for the money.  However, its
wiring is bad, so I don't get any speed/distance readings.  Since I own a stop-watch,
all I need to compensate for the bad wiring is to install an external odometer (if possible).

Edit
The manufacturer subsequently came through, very nicely, shipping me a replacement.  There was simply a temporary communication delay.  Anyway, the responses to this article were great, re this is not an uncommon problem.

I emphasize that the odometer does not have to be accurate.  However, I do
need the odometer to be consistent from one day to the next.
As the following image shows, I do not have access to any spinning wheel on
the exercise bicycle.

Therefore, the only idea that I have is to (somehow) find a moderately priced
(under $50) odometer that I can attach to one of the pedals, and then have its
readout located near the top of the exercise bicycle, for my easy viewing.
My research has completely struck out re attaching an odometer to a pedal.  Is
this do-able?  If so, what type of odometer should I purchase?  If an odometer can not give consistent (not necessarily accurate) results when attached to a pedal, is there any other approach that I can take?
Edit
As indicated by the responses, the do-able approach involves adding the odometer magnet to the crank arm rather than the pedal.


texts: Are cranksets generally interchangeable?

texts:
My crankset is worn down and needs to be replaced. Can I take the intact crankset from an older, broken bike and mount it on my newer bike? If it matters, both cranksets are Shimano (different models), have 3 chainrings and 48 teeth on the largest one.

I'm mainly worried that the horizontal distance between the chainrings might be different, which would make accurate shifting impossible. As far as I can tell they seem to be equal, but it's pretty hard to measure them accurately. Also I imagine there might be other things to take into account which I'd never think of.


texts: What explains 9 speed cassettes price differences?

texts:
I have a pretty heavy bike I use to travel long distances with a lot of luggage. It  has a mix of XT, deore and other Shimano equipment. I bought it second hand so I don't really know the details. I have ridden 10,000km with it without replacing anything in the drive train, and it's now so used up the chain skips when I apply too much force on the pedals, and my foot just goes straight to the ground.

I want to change the 11-34 cassette and the chain to solve that. On the website I will order from, they have:

a 14€ HG400 Alivio Sora
a 16€ HG201 Acera
a 47€ M770 XT

I have no idea what explains the price difference. As far as I can tell they are all compatible with my XT derailleur but the XT one is lighter. I don't really care about weight as I use this bike to transport heavy equipment anyway, but I do care about durability.

What should I buy? Should I also change the rings at the same time?

Thanks a lot for your help.


texts:
I'm very new to the complex world of bicycles, so apologies ahead of time...

I have a 2012 Giant Defy 1 (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/defy-1-2012) and am looking to upgrade the wheels to something more commuter friendly. The tires on my road bike are stock 700 x 23 and the rims are stock Giant PR-2.

My questions are:

What's the best size tires to use? I read that 32's are too wide,
but my worry is that 26's might be too narrow.
Will I need to get new rims to accommodate the larger tire or will
the stock PR-2 discs, which currently use 23's, work?


texts: Goofy bike lane configuration right-of-way

texts:
I was riding down the bike lane when a car hit me from the side with it's side. I ended up being drug about 30" or so before she came to a stop. I dont know her side of the story yet because I have not seen the police report yet. But what I'm wondering is who was in the right.
  As you can see in my poorly illustrated picture, I was close to the point when the bike lane crosses a traffic lane when the collision occurred. I did not see the vehicle until it was inches from my handlebar until it was too late. And I am not certain if she was crossing into that lane at the time either. From a distance, you can see the bike lane does this transition but there is no warning sign posted.
  Is anyone at fault, or is it considered a no fault accident?
Thanks for any insight.


texts:
I've recently switched from a hybrid with straight bars to a touring bike with conventional drop bars. My commute is just over 5km, and my palms have been getting very sore just below my thumb.

My theory is that my saddle is angled too far forward and I'm resting too much of my weight on my hands. Is there anything else I should try adjusting? Are my hands still getting used to the new more aggressive riding position?

Any other tips for someone getting used to drop bars?

Edit: I am 6'3" and the bike's frame is 60cm.


texts:
Can I use KMC Z7 chaing  (1/2 x 3/32) on 8 speed cassete Sunrace MFM-56?
When I changed the old chain with KMC Z7, the smallest sprocket and the largest are fine.
But in the between the shifting is not smooth and something feels not right (slipping/ skiping). NOTE: chain and cassete are both new.
Below are picture of KMC Z7 and Sunrace MFM-56.

P.S. There is also Z8 chain on KMC website. But it seems to me, that it absolutely the same size (1/2 x 3/32, pin=7.3mm).
UPDATE:
I tried a new KMC Z8 chain with width of 7.1mm.
But it didn't provide a significant improvement.
Maybe there is something wrong with a cassete ( a fake one?).


texts: Reinforced Shimano pin snapped before connecting chain - how to resolve?

texts:
My previous chain snapped weeks ago and only got a new one sorted.

I've cut the chain to the right size, fed it through the derailleurs and onto the bike correctly.

The last step was to use the reinforced Shimano pin to connect the new chain together.  Unfortunately the reinforced pin snapped as it was being put into its slot.

My wife was doing it so I'm not 100% sure what happened but she said it snapped very easily and unexpectedly. My only guess is that the chain tool wasn't going straight?

Anyway, the actual link that you'd want to stay in and connected, wasn't far enough in yet so it fell out, the 'snapping' bit is now stuck pertruding out of the chain.

I've never replaced a chain like this before so I'm slightly weary of doing damage.  It'll be tricky, but should I be able to use the already snapped pin to connect the chain and hopefully it'll help push out the snappable portion?

Should I attempt to get another reinforced pin instead of attempting the above and start again?

I could attempt to pull out the 'snappable' portion with pliers but again slightly worried about causing damage!


texts:
Can I install a back bike rack without attachment to the rear part of the frame?

Also, if someone can clarify, whenever I google

  bike rack

I get hits on racks designed to carry bikes on a car and such.

I am referring to the racks on the bikes themselves which will allow me to haul things on my bike.

I bought a bike recently assuming it would have attachments near the rear part of the frame but they are not present.

I have seen some bike racks which secure only to the rear wheel axle, but that does not seem too stable.

As you can see in the pic there are no holes for screwing into like I see in many other bikes and nearly all of the racks I looked at.


texts: Is it possible to use a two or three chainring with an internal hub?

texts: I have a Bullit cargo bike. It has a Shimano 39t chainring and a Alfine 8 rear hub. I was going to go for a Rohloff to get more gears, but the price is just getting stupid. I looked at the Alfine 11 but its lowest gear is reported to be the same as the Alphine 8 and I need lower gears to get me up hills. So I have now turned my attention toward buying a smaller chainring that will fit the 68mm HollowTech ii. But I have been thrown by the discussions about chain sizes. If I purchase a chainring with say an SLX 40,28T or Delore 38T,24T would this mean than my normal 1/8th chain would get stuck. fall off etc. And can you use a Deraillia shifter on a front chainring while keeping the rear hub? I am trying to keep my top speed but also obtain lower gears for the hills. I have used the Bullit to carry camping gear and my dog for many trips but now want to tackle some real mountains.


texts:
I am trying to join PC-1 SRAM chain, it has such snaplock:

And the problem is, the distance between holes is slightly less (IMHO) than distance between the pins. Every hole on its own fits any pin, but so far I am unable to put the golden part onto the pins, either one holes fit, or the other -- and I cannot make them both snap at the same time.

I have manual for this chain, but irony, it describes how to use silver power lock (asymmetric), not this one.

So, how to mount it? Should I use tools like pliers?


texts: Kids trailer (Weber hitch) on a folding bike (Tern Link)

texts:
Is it possible to attach a kids trailer (a Thule Chariot) on a folding bike?

As I already have 2 bikes with a Weber hitch, I would prefer to use that on the folding bike as well. Currently, I want to buy a Tern eLink and I would like to mount a Weber hitch on it. Is this possible and if it is, can the bike still easily be folded? Can the magnet still be used to hold the folded bike together? I think the rear of the Tern eLink is identical to the Tern Link D7I, so if someone has any experience with that combination, it would be great if you could share it.

Tern Link D7I: http://www.ternbicycles.com/de/bikes/472/elink
Tern eLink: http://www.ternbicycles.com/de/bikes/472/elink
Weber hitch: http://www.weber-products.de/products/kupplungen-ubersicht/


texts: Will dual pivot caliper brakes work on cantilever fork?

texts:
I have 26” tokyobike(used to be 650c) with tektro r369 which are long reach dual pivot caliper brakes. I want to change the fork so I can put wider tyres. Will the 26” mtb cantilever fork work with the brakes? Will the brake pads reach the rim?
I’ve post the pic of the fork I mentioned from ebay.
Thanks


texts: How can I carry a heavy bag without a rack?

texts:
I want to buy a heavy 20kg bag of rice and bring it home.

The problem is that I only have access to a bike without any rack or formal way to store bags. The bag is too big to fit in my backpack. The distance is about 3km from the shop to my home.

I am using a Bixi (Shared bike in Montreal). There are stations near both my home and the store.

How can I safely carry heavy and bulky items on a bike without a rack?


texts:
What kind of valve is the best one, a Presta valve (6mm) or a Schrader valve (8mm).
Which has the best reliability, which one is easiest to fix a flat on?


texts: Making a very sharp turn by pivoting on your front wheel?

texts:
There is that cool maneuver that lets you do a very sharp turn (90° or even 180°) in very tight situations, like descending two flights of staircases (in town) or narrow and very steep winding trails (in nature).

It involves pressing the front brake so the front wheel locks, and the rear wheel rises into the air. You would then place the rear wheel back down wherever you want, disengage the front brake, and continue riding in the new direction.

I saw an owner of a bike shop do this once, but have seen it only in online videos since then.

So, how is this maneuver called? I saw names like "endo" or "stoppie", but "endo" seems to refer to accidents, and "stoppie" seems to mean a "trick", only done for the cool look. Does there exist a name that implies doing this in a mundane way, like when one's commute route just appears to have an angled staircase in it?

In addition (if this is not too much to ask in the same question) - how to practice this?


texts: Suggested tire pressure for an "overloaded" bike

texts:
I've got very old (10+ years) Author Mystic bike. It has 26" x 1,95" tires with suggested pressure set to 2,9-4,5 bar. Currently I have inflated them to 3,4 bar. I'm around 120 kgs and riding on such tires brings no problems for me.

I'd like to start riding with my older daughter in bicycle child seat. She is less than 20 kgs (near border weight for that child seat).

Answers to this Duru Can Celasun's question assured me, that in general my bike should handle our together weight of 140-150 kg without serious problems. Though, we may already talk about overloaded bike with such weight of user.

Here, I'd like to ask, what would be perfect tire pressure for both my lonely rides (120-125 kg) and for together trips (140-150 kg)?


texts:
My brake pads have worn to the point where the lever can no longer apply full pressure, and there isn't much pad protruding beyond the pad mounting. So they need replacing and I want to do it myself rather than handing over to a workshop and losing the use of the bike for a day or two.

I think (from appearance) my rim brakes are HS33. Although my bike is newer the details match those seen in this company video on changing the pads:

The side with the quick release mechanism does indeed undock easily and can be quickly changed. However the other side (where the hydraulic lines arrive from the brake lever) lacks any quick release and I think he says at 0:44 to dismount the wheel to change the pad on the other side!? Is there really no easier way to get that pad changed? Would you ever want to change just one pad anyway, if not what does the quick release achieve if the next step is dropping the wheel out?


texts: What is the longest reasonable distance one may expect to ride on a comfort bike?

texts: I ride a 2011 Trek Navigator 1 with 7-speed derailleur.  Purchased in August of 2011, I've tried to ride as often as possible.  My longest rides have been approximately 12 miles in length.  I've equipped the bike with SKS fenders and a rear rack.  I'm getting to the point where I'd like to start taking longer rides, maybe 10 or miles each way.  Is this sort of riding unfeasible on a "comfort" bike?


texts: What tube do I need to buy for a Cube SL Road Race Bike?

texts:
Sorry for such a newbie question but I truly am in need of some guidance to make sure I buy the right thing.

I recently bought a Cube SL Road Race which I've been out on a few times, covering about 60 miles. When I came to use the bike today I found the front tyre had gone flat so I find myself needing to get hold of a replacement tube.

The tyre is a Schwalbe Kojak with markings which read 35-622 28 x 1.35, 700 x 350. 4.0 - 6.5 BAP, 55 - 95 PSI. The wheel is a Fulcrum Racing Seventy Seven Db

Can anyone help me to understand what replacement tube I need to buy? I'd also appreciate any guidance which might help prevent punctures in the future.

Many Thanks!


texts: How much will 4mm dish weaken the rear wheel?

texts:
I'm building a rear wheel (my first wheel-build) that needs a 4mm dish. How much will this amount of dish weaken the wheel? What would be the maximum dish a wheel can have while still maintaining good strength?

EDIT:
Details:
Old and used double walled rim;
Rim outer diameter: 635mm
Rim inner diameter: 585.1mm
Rim width (measured with calipers): 24.4mm
Spoke count: 36 normal spokes
Coaster brake hub;
Hub diameter (measured between 2 opposite spoke holes): 49.1mm
Flange to flange distance: 50mm

CLARIFICATION:
By 4mm I mean dishing the wheel such that the rim moves 4mm to the left relative to the frame center line (or relative to its non-dished position). I need this because I took away 4mm worth of spacers from the drive side, and added them to the non-drive side -- effectively moving the rim+hub 4mm to the right relative to the frame center line (or relative to the drop outs).
If measured with the dishing tool (after spacer readjustment), there would be an 8mm distance between the tool point and the locknut of the non-dished wheel.


texts:
I've just replaced the rear derailleur on my kids bike. I've fitted the biked with a Shimano Altus.
The issue I am seeing is the shifting between gears 6 and 7. When I move from  7 to 6 the chain does not move onto the next cog. When I move from 6 to 5 it moves to the next cog and then continues up with each gear change. So effectively when I'm at 1, the chain is on the second last cog.
When I shift from the gears from 1 to 7 the same behaviour is seen. So effectively when I move from gear 5 to 6, the chain has already moved onto the last cog. So when I move from 6 to 7 the chain just sits there.

What do I need to do to ensure that the chain moves from the smallest to the next cog when I move the gear from 7 to 6 ?


texts: Method to remove and prevent rust on a Reynolds 531C bike frame?

texts: The frame of the 531C Reynolds tubing is rusting, What is the most appropriate method to remove and prevent the rust? Would it be removing the rust and repainting? If so could you like me to resources to understand step by step?


texts: I'm building my own fixie (almost a cliche, sorry) and I debating whether or not to buy chain tensioners.  I will be riding my bike with a fixed gear most of the time.  One of the reasons I ask is because I see a lot of fixies without them.  So I was wondering whether or not I really needed them.  Personal preference is welcome.


texts: Can I use chain rings that were on a 9 speed for my 11 speed cassette or do I need to get 11 speed chain rings?

texts:
Essentially I am asking if I need thinner chain rings for the thinner 11 speed chain. Also, what is the max length chain I can get in 11 speed.
I am frankenbiking hard right now. Just want a better groupset on my sturdy, yet craptastic Fuji Nevada 1.9 frame.
Thanks, and be gentle, I have been riding forever, just now decided to learn about all the stuff I just took in to the shop to fix, or franken.
Thanks,
Jeff


texts: How to mount posters, bills or placards on a bicycle

texts:
We want to do a ride through our city to show the presence of cycling and want that people do not only see bikes, but also a message.

We thought of using some posters that we mount on our bikes, but we are not sure how to do this. We thought about glueing the posters on card board and maybe even reinforcing the card board with wood. We are thinking about A3 sized posters, or even larger. If there was somebody with experience on how to build posters so one can mount them easily on a bicycle, tips would be appreciated.

Other tips on how to convey a message as a group on bicycles would also be nice!

I wanted to keep the problem pretty open, so it can be of use to other people facing a similar problem, but since they have been requested:

Specifics are as follows: We want to make a bike ride in suits to show that cycling is possible in any attire, and I opted in to find a solution how to make posters so people see our message and do not just wonder about a group of cyclists in suits. We might need a big poster in front and in the back, and the individual cyclist should also be able to mount a message on their bikes easily (want to make around 5 smaller posters). There should be some trailers available.

It would be nice if the posters are reuseable, maybe even for different purposes, but the ride I want to use them for will only last around 2 to 3 hours.

Budget is pretty tight, I would guess around 50 $.


texts: Recommendation for panniers to carry a laptop for daily commute That's available in the UK

texts:
I've seen this question about Panniers, but as far as I can tell, the Arkel Panniers aren't available in the UK.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good laptop holding pannier that converts into a backpack or a messenger bag style (I only don't want to wear it as a messenger bag while cycling), and is also readily available in the UK?

I don't want to wear a messenger bag while I'm cycling, as my issue is that my current bag is making my back sweat like crazy.


texts: How can I repair a swollen tire allowing visibility on the inner tube (picture provided)?

texts:
I have a new problem on my bike which occured after patching my inner tube. Since I put the patch on, my tire is pushed out away from the rim near the intake valve (not near the patch). In the picture below, you can see the inner tube between the rim and the tire (partially hidden from view by snow). This is the case only on that spot, and only on that side. I can still ride the bike (I've been riding it like this for two days) but I can feel a small bump every time my wheel make a full rotation. Mostly, I'm afraid it will break soon.

The question: What's causing this problem and how can I solve it?


texts:
What kind of bike is this?

What type of seat did it have?

I only found a number stamped under the crank: 1620


texts: Possible to repair a pushed in braze-on?

texts:
I have a Trek 7200 (Alpha aluminum frame) and it has two water bottle holder mountings, the top braze-on on the seat tube seems to have broken from over-tightening and has sunk into the frame. These braze-ons are recessed into the body of the frame tubes, as if they were somehow attached from the inside.

Is it possible to repair this braze-on? Is it something some super-glue could help with, or am I looking at a permanent wound?


texts: My bike, a Trek, has Tektro mechanical disc brakes. Do I need to insert a pad spacer when the wheel is removed to prevent the brake from locking if the lever is accidentally moved?


texts: What are criteria for a team to get UCI World Tour license for the next season?

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I do not know much about this question, the only thing I have heard is that commentator on Eurosport mentioned a few times that UCI points one rider obtains are counted for the team which signed him for the next seasons.

So I wondered what are the criteria based on which a team gets WT license for the next season? Is there some minimal number of points they must have? Are there some conditions about the budget? Are there some other conditions a team must fulfill?


texts: Does carrying a chain lock around on the frame reduce a bicycle's performance?

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I have a Montra rock 650B MTB. I use 2 lock systems - 1 cable and 1 chain lock for added security. Both are attached to the frame while I cycle. The chain-lock is pretty heavy (around 700 grams).

I was wondering if the mass of the locks attached to the frame affects the bicycle's performance. If so, is carrying the locks in a backpack instead a better solution?


texts: What make/brand is this bike marked "Challenger" and "Resistance"?

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I'm trying to find what kind of brand/make my bike is so I can find more information about it. It might help me determine if I should buy a new bike.

All I can tell from looking around my bike are the words 'Challenger' and 'Resistance'. It's a hand-me-down mountain bike, I haven't got a manual or receipt for the bike so I suspect there must be some way of finding out otherwise.

I've searched for 'Challenger Resistance' on the web and the best result I received was from an auction on eBay of an identical bike. Here's what my bike looks like:

I'd like to know how to identify bikes. I think that would be more valuable then If someone told me what brand I have.


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it is a vintage Cosmos World Champion road bike.
Frame height is 57 cm / 22.44 inches (measured from the center of the crankshaft to the seatpost).

Frame uses Columbus tubing. Components:

Selle Italia Turbo 1985 WC  "World Championship" leather saddle.
3ttt "3T" Triple T  Super Competizione / Racing Team Service  steerer.
Brev. Campagnolo Front dropout.
Columbus rear dropout.
Weinmann Carrera 1st generation brakes (Red emblem).
Gipiemme Sprint Pedals.
1st generation Dura-Ace front derailleur.
Shimano RD-6401 , 600 Ultegra rear derailleur.
Shimano FC-1050, 105 crankset.
Shimano SL-1055, 105SC (7sp) shifters. (Band On / Clamp on)
Shimano BL-1055 / 105SC  brake levers.
Mavic MA 2 rims.
Ciclolinea 80's bar end plugs.


texts:
I need a bike for my first ever bike tour, and desperately need some help...
I'm quite new to the "bike world", and have a hard time understanding all the technical jargon.
After some research, I'm thinking this might be a good choice;
https://www.cube.eu/uk/2021/bikes/city-tour/offroad/travel/cube-travel-pro-blacknteak/
A few questions then:

Anyone with personal experience of this model, who'll give a quick review?
If no personal experience, does it seem like a decent enough touring bike, or are there any big red flags based on the listed components?
According to their size chart, I'm in between two sizes (S,M). Sadly, no local dealers nearby, so I can't physically try it before buying... so, which to choose? Is smaller generally better for not destroying your back, or is it the other way around?

If anyone has the time to answer, favorably in a "biking for dummies" sort of language, I would be eternally grateful!


texts: Mountain bike rear wheel tilts after remounting

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Backstory: Total newbie regarding repairing cycles and the proper cycling terminology, so please take that into account.

Actual story:

I had a fall and the rear wheel started touching the brakes (non-disc), so I took it out aiming to remount it and as a final result I broke the quick release.

After a long walk home, went and bought a new quick release (the wheel has some nuts to some effect I'm not 100% sure about). I installed it according to this video (and also followed the "tight enough to leave a mark on the hand, but no tighter" rule I read about somewhere), seemingly aligned (in the middle between the frame). Now, I see two things:

The wheel tilts sideways about 1/4" or a bit more, it's not fixed.
When under load the wheel ends up either touching the brakes or directly the frame.

Thus I think that I'm either misinstalling the wheel, or that after the fall something else got broken or damaged.

The actual question is, how to find the actual problem (misinstalling the wheel or something else, or both) and its solution?

EDIT: Here's a video of how the wheel tilts, and another video of a possible culprit (damaged spoke). Could that damage explain the amount of tilting?