texts: Replacement dropouts with derailleur hanger for Kona Unit

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A friend of mine has a single speed Kona Unit and wants to make it geared. The model he has (likely 2012 or 2013 model) uses sliding dropout. He currently has single speed dropout plates without a derailleur hanger. What replacement plates are available for the sliding dropouts with a derailleur hanger?  Are these paragon dropouts (or compatible with paragon), Tange dropouts, or custom to Kona?

Any suggestions on which dropout plates to use to replace the drive side with a geared dropout plate would be helpful.

FYI: I referenced all sites listed in the following question and didn't find sliding dropouts for this bike on any of them:Determining which derailleur hanger is compatible with a frame

Current dropout looks like:

(source: bikeman.com)


texts: What torque for caliper brakes onto carbon-alloy forks?

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I've recently got a new bike with a Kinesis DC07 carbon/alloy fork. This comes with deep-drop calliper brakes (Shimano R451 Dual Pivot). The first time out I bumped one of the brakes and it twisted around the single attachment bolt and rubbed on the rim.

I managed to easily twist it back by hand and carry on, however I thought the bolt probably needs tightening. The question is: How tight can it be?

As the fork is part carbon I've so far only dared to take it up to 4Nm, but it still seems possible to twist the whole calliper around with a bump of the hand. Maybe that's normal? Perhaps it's easier to bump around because of the longer deep-drop lever. Should I be aiming to get it really secure?

I'm not sure whether the brake mount in the fork is all carbon, or some of it is alloy underneath, but either way I'd like to know what a sensible torque is. As far as I can see from the manufacturer's website there is no such specification. How can I find this out?


texts: is a SRAM XX 1 crankset compatible with an XT 8000 BB

texts: can I put a SRAM XX 1 2x10 crankset into the BB of an XT 8000 (also 2x10)


texts:
I was looking through a bike catalogue at one of the high-end road bikes (a $6000 Giant Propel) and I couldn't help but notice that this bike is advertised with specific tyres for front and rear wheels.

This was a new one to me, I've not known any other bike to have this and, as far as I can see, tyre manufacturers don't make front and rear tyres - they're just tyres! So my next question was, "what's the difference?"

The two tyres are the same size (700x23) and it turns out that the difference is in the tread patterns [edit: I now realise this is incorrect]. The front tyre is described as sticky 60/64/60 durometer. The rear described as durable and fast 64/70/64 durometer.

I was just wondering if anyone knew what these values actually mean? (left/centre/right thickness?) Or is it something proprietary to Giant?

Just to be clear, I understand why you might put different tyres on front and back, I understand that the difference between these two might be unnoticeable to all but the best cyclists, its those numbers I'm interested in understanding.


texts: I have 20x2.4 tyres and need to fit it on 20x1.95 rims but I don't know if I can fit it on is it possible to do this


texts: How do I determine the model of my Shimano Rear Derailleur?

texts: I recently damaged my rear derailleur and am trying to find the replacement online.  It is a Shimano Tourney SIS Index.  I have found several models in the Shimano website that are pretty close matches, but am wondering if there some way to determine the model or is there a hidden product number in the unit somewhere.


texts: Hey guys i have a simple cycle .It do not have gears in it but today while cycling , my rear tyre suddenly gets tilted towards right hand side . One of the , the upper side is tilted towards right and the other side bottom part is tilted towards left hand  ..plz help me


texts: Buying mudguard and pannier together vs separately

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I need to get new fenders/mudguards, and I also need to get a pannier rack.

As I understand it, these can sometimes be bought as one unit, they can obviously be bought separately, and I am not sure if one can buy them as a pair that are desgined to go together, but not actually welded together (i.e. could be used separately)

Between these 2/3 options, is there any general advice as to which is better.

Bike will be used pretty much just on road/paths, most for commuting, very old standard frame.


texts: How would I find bicycle parts cross-referencing make and model? I own a Dept. Store Schwinn Dual Sport (GTX), and before I begin dismantling the bottom bracket for servicing, (it's been 3 years since I bought this bike brand new with a lot of exercise mileage); I would like to have the parts in hand. I've searched and Googled ad nauseam and I find nothing. Also, I can't find a parts blowup specific to my make and model, (just the generic drawings in the so-called Schwinn User Manual....which is probably used for other models). Why is it so hard to find this information? What purchasing source do the bike shops use?


texts: Pedal doesn't rotate freely; occasionally comes with grinding / clicking

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Apologies if that has been asked before; the search function shows up related but ultimately different issues. Here's what's going on:

As I pedal along, occasionally the left pedal will be reluctant to turn nicely so as to stay horizontal and nicely level with my foot.

At the very least it will make a protesting clicking sound. Occasionally it will just completely refuse to rotate, which awkwardly bounces my foot.

So I got off the bike to see what happens. If I try to manually turn just the pedal on the crank arm, it's not a constant resistance. Rather, it'll turn a bit, then offer a big resistance that I can violently push past, producing another crunchy click grind sound.

Would anybody know what's going on here? Time to replace the pedal? Or just some tender love and care?

EDIT: Details of bike. Commuter bike. Officially 10 years old but pretty much everything got overhauled in the last 5 years, with a complete cassette / bottom bracket replacement last year.
27 speed (3x9), not sure what derailleur style would be. The one that most normal commuter bikes have, I guess? Hub isn't geared.


texts: Rubber on wall mounted bike hooks is wearing away. What can I use to cover them so my wheels don't get scratched?

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Vinyl covered wall mounted bike hooks coating is wearing away due to use. What can I use to cover them so my wheels don't get scratched?

Using These type of hooks:


texts: Accurately replicating the resistance felt whilst riding via a resistance fan diy turbo trainer

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If I were to build my own Lemond Revolution style turbo trainer (link below) could I use the air speed in meters/second^2 the rider is moving into as a good indicator of what type and size of fan to use?

Or put the other way around could I use the indicated airflow that is moving through the fan at a range of revolutions per minute to provide similar resistance to what is found outside, resistance increasing with the cube of speed?

Would this information be enough to begin building, experimenting and testing fans for a diy turbo trainer?

If the fan has an aero map which states its lb/min in airflow at a given rpm (which is within normal cadence of a geared bicycle) is this a good indicator of potential resistance that is will provide (once converted from statute to metric)?

Lemond revolution trainer link: http://greglemond.com/#!/revolution


texts: What are the effects of completely filling tires with water instead of air?

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As absurd as it sounds, I was curious as to how a bike would handle with the front tire filled with water.  I wonder if steep hill climbs would be easier (particularly for a mountain bike):

1) to bring the center weight forward

2) to use the increase rotational momentum to carry the speed through to the next pedal stroke.


texts: Quick Release Rack with Horizontal Dropouts

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I own a 1980s Panasonic (steel) road bike without eyelets for a rack or fenders, and I'd like to add a rack. The seat stays and chain stays on this bike are a bit thinner than I'd be comfortable to use P-Clamps on (and I'd rather not use them for all of the mounting points of the rack).

There exist racks which are somewhat designed to alleviate this, such as the Axiom Streamliner line shown below:

This one mounts to the caliper bridge and can use a quick release on the bottom. However, since my bike has horizontal dropouts, I am not sure if there is anything else I need to be aware of for using a quick release mounted rack. Typically the rack will be loaded with 5-20 kg. The skewer is an old Shimano one, probably the original one which came with the 105 hubs.


texts: Chain on singlespeed tight, pedals won't turn backwards very freely - is this an issue?

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A well-known and well regarded shop fixed something on my converted single-speed bicycle. On the ride back from the shop, the pedaling felt "different", and I noticed that the pedals will stop after less than a turn when pedaling backwards.

I went back and the mechanic explained that he overtightens the rear wheel in the dropouts. In his experience, within a few days the chain will be back to normal and it'll be fine.

However I wonder if this could cause issues of wear and tear and ruin other, perfectly working, parts?


texts: Is it possible to buy a frameset from Trek that isn't listed separately?

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I am thinking of buying a Trek CrossRip or 720 touring bike, but I want it with Ultegra Di2 and the bikes are only listed on the Trek website with lower-end components.  So I'd like to buy a frameset and build it up the way I want...but how?  I don't live in the US and the official Trek LBS I've been to is outrageously expensive for everything, so ideally I'd want to buy online.  The Trek 720 is a brand new model so finding a used one in the right size seems very unlikely.

Some brands list framesets on their websites separately, including Trek, but the particular frames I'd want aren't listed this way.


texts:
This is the bicycle that I own:

My problem is that the handlebars have become loose right right where that red bolt is located. There is an identical bolt on the other side. I have tried adjusting them but they won't budge.

Does anybody know what these kind of handlebars are called and how they can be adjusted?


texts: Rear wheel is moving from side to side anyone have any ideas what might be the problem thanks


texts: What is the best web application to create cycling cue sheets for future rides

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I'm looking for good software to help me map out routes that I have not done before and create cue sheets and probably also printable maps.  I plan to use this for my own rides, planning group rides, and maybe even alleycat routes.  Things like elevation profile would be nice too.

Optionally, this would also have a cue sheet viewer app available for my smartphone for reference. It doesn't have to navigate me, just show me a list of turns and notes.

I don't really care if it supports upload of routes from gps units or a mobile app since I'm using it more for future rides than past rides. I rarely do the same ride twice.  However, some people find this very useful.

I'm willing to pay money for a good app, so free isn't neccesary, but it's nice. The key thing is it has to be easy to map out a route and generate a cue sheet and add notes.


texts: It it impolite to "informally" join or draft a group of cyclists?

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On a recent Sunday ride on a country road, I was slowly overtaken by a group of (5) guys on road bikes. They were "proper" road cyclists, if you know what I mean.

When they passed me, I just slipped in behind them and drafted for about 5 miles until we parted ways.

I tried to keep a low profile. I didn't have trouble keeping up with them, but I didn't "take a turn at the front" because I wasn't sure I was welcome.

They didn't seem to acknowledge my presence at all (which was fine with me), except for one guy who cast a glance at my bike (a mtb).

Is this acceptable behavior? I sure wouldn't mind, but I'm not a religious roadie :D


texts: How to stop foot clipping front mudguard

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My feet overlap the pedal and clip the front mudguard when I'm turning at a low speed because I have to turn the handlebars wider than normal.

My foot doesn't clip the wheel when the mudguard is not attached. Does anyone know if this is a common problem and what is done to solve it?

My thoughts are:

Bend the excess metal rods around the outside of the mudguard to lessen the amount of excess rods that can be caught by my foot.
Somehow rotate the mudguard anti-clockwise (as viewed standing from the right of the bike) to lower the excess rods and rubber flap and create more clearance.
The mudguard is not suitable for my bike and I should get another set.


texts: Problem with inside of shoe clipping crank arm

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Crankset Shimano FC-S125, 105 Golden Arrow and I know I'm using the right bottom bracket (119mm)

The pedals Shimano Clipless SPD M505

My shoes Broken link, please fix

I've got a problem with my shoe scuffing the crank arm when I turn.

Potential issues

I'm using mtb shoes on a road bike
Old crank (not a smooth molded
form)
Pedals
positioning of cleat?

Any ideas or advice appreciated.

The bike (excuse the weird cinelli decals, I bought it like that. I am not sure if it is a real cinelli).


texts: Should I consider replacing bottom bracket?

texts:
I have a Cube Acid MTB from 2002. It has been used for 45000km, but only during summer on the road, and never in the rain, so absolutely no water on any parts.

Since I will be replacing other parts during the winter break by myself, I was planning on having the LBS to remove the BB so I could find a similar one, and then have them install it before next season.

But I am not sure it is needed. I was just thinking that 45000km sounded like a lot for a BB that has not been serviced for 16 years. The rides the last few months has felt a little bit "muddy", like when you walk in water there is some resistance, but that could be the chain which is a little bit dirty and old (Shimano HG93 XT 27000km).

I have just removed the chain, and when I pull the pedals I do not see any play and when I spin them, I do hear a little bit of noise, but it is more "whoosh" than any creaking or grinding noise, and it does seem to run smoothly.

I do not know exactly what BB is installed but it have to be some standard Shimano. So should I consider replacing it after 45000km in dry conditions or is it possible it can be used for many more miles?

Does anybody have a guess about what BB is installed? I can measure the axle length and diameter, but all this with square tapers and thread, I do not know anything about.


texts: How to adjust Avid Elixir 1 hydraulic disc brakes?

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I have a Trek X-Caliber and the rear disc is rubbing a little. So I want to adjust the brakes so it doesn't rub and make things a bit easier of course.

I see many videos about brake adjustment but none for this model (Avid Elixir 1) and I am very worried about playing around with the system and then end up making things worse...or with no rear brakes at all.

I live in thailand and there isnt a good bike shop where i live.


texts: How to maintain platform pedal bearings?

texts:
I have a pair of Redline platform pedals with plastic end caps and I notice one of them does not turn freely.
They look about like this:
http://www.redlinebicycles.com/uploaded/dynamic/430/124564-thumb_800.jpg, except there is no notch near the end cap, which makes me think it isn't maintainable. The Redline page says they are available either as sealed bearing or loose ball and perhaps these are sealed?

I'm thinking about popping the cap off the end anyway and see if I can grease it.  Will I ruin my pedal?


texts: How to increase speed on my hybrid bike with flat handlebars and 700X35C tyres?

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I have Montra Blues 1.1 hybrid bike with flat handlebar and 700x35C tyres. When I try to lean forward and try to increase my speed, my hands get fatigued and I can’t do it for longer durations.

How can I go faster on a hybrid bike with this tyre and handlebar combination? Can you suggest ways to increase my speed?

Edit (added from comments): my average speed is 11mph and max speed is 20mph. I usually ride for 40-50 mins daily.


texts: Should I force an 130 mm hub into my old vintage alu frame

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I have a classic vitus 979 aluminium road frame where the rear dropout width is 126 mm. Most of the things I hear is that you should not use force on an alu frame and try to fit in an 130 mm hub in there, like you could on a vintage steel frame, but some say that the vitus 979 frame has so much spring in it.

I'm not sure what to do, I want to have modern wheels on it, should I try to force it?


texts: Can I just change straightforward wheel axles to QR skewers?

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I've just bought a second hand road bike which doesn't have Quick Release Skewers.

Can I just buy a set of QR Skewers and fit them?

Are they a standard size?

Are there any gotchas waiting to bite me if I do change to them?

Is there anything specific I need to look for in order to change to QR Skewers?


texts:
I've noticed some knee pain arising recently from cycling. a throbbing around and below the kneecap, while I sit at my desk during work. To try and counteract this I've been increasing the height of my seat. This has gotten to the point where my hips slightly rock during cycling.

I know there is a few things I do that do not help.

I ride a fixie: I've tried taking the starts and stops slower in order to minimise tension in my knees. Also I always use the front brake to slow down.

What steps can be taken to eliminate knee pain. It's causing some concern considering my daily cycle is <15mins of urban cycling.


texts: Can I fit a front rim brake to Vanmoof VM3?

texts: I have a Vanmoof VM3 bike that has a coaster rear brake and I want to add a rim brake. What size should I get or do you know one that is compatible to this bike?


texts: What is the carbon footprint of a new bike?

texts:
When you look at the complete journey from bauxite to bicycle via China, a big container ship and the bicycle showroom, there probably is quite a lot of CO2 emissions involved in making a new bicycle.

Are their any easily quotable figures for this?

Are there any handy equivalent metrics, e.g. equivalent to x miles in a family saloon or equivalent to x hundred packets of Walkers Crisps (at 80g per pack)?

I would like to know a generally agreed figure as I have found myself being stumped in conversation with motorists that (after conversation has moved onto their planet trashing ways) have the cheek and audacity to criticise cyclists.

What happens is that they go ad-hominem, 'pointing out' that buying a new bicycle is 'bad for the environment', particularly one made on the other side of the planet. Rather than have no defence I would like to be able to say 'yeah but that is only equivalent to x hundred of your gas-guzzling miles/hours 'sat' in traffic.'

Has anyone done a carbon audit for a bicycle yet? If so, are there any particularly low-carbon bikes out there?

Note:

I mention the Walkers Crisps in passing - no I don't want to know that cycling has a huge footprint if the fuel (food) is caviar/fancy-mini-corn from Zambia/lamb from New Zealand/fish from the Arctic (or even a nice pack of Prawn Cocktail crisps prepared with sunflower oil grown in Eastern Europe). Just the carbon footprint from whatever bike brands have bothered to measure it, not the on-going fuel costs (food).


texts: Differences between symetrical and asymetrical brake pads for cantilever / v-brakes

texts: What are the functional differences of the 'long tail' brake pads (more pad on one rear facing side of the post than the front side) versus the symmetrical (same amount of pad on either side of the post) brake pads for cantilever and v-brakes. Why would I prefer one type over the other?


texts: Is it possible to get a light that is too bright?

texts:
This question is related to this recent question: Best ways to avoid getting hit by cars?

I have a 750 lumens front head light - it's bright! Some of my riding buddies say it is too bright for the streets as it blinds drivers. I disagree that it is truly blinding drivers and think that means it is just doing a better job of making me visible. Is it possible for a light to be too bright?

Another consideration for this is bike paths at night. Obviously a light doesn't need to be as bright on a bike path as a busy city street, but I do feel bad for the oncoming pedestrians that seem to be wincing when I approach. What is the proper etiquette for approaching in these situations. Turning off my light doesn't seem like a good idea. Also, I'm not really interested in jimmy rigging a lens-guard on my light, or purchasing a new one (Bike lights with beam cut-off to avoid dazzling drivers?).

As a side note, on a couple occasions, drivers at intersections have complimented my lights noting how easy it was to see me! I assume they are referring to my tail light, though.


texts: What's typically wrong with cheap mountain bikes?

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I'm interested in buying a mountain bike. Recently, I was at a Decathlon and checked out their mountain bikes. They only had 3 fullies and I really liked the 700 Eur one. I didn't buy it outright because the dampening locking mechanism seemed to be broken as I was still able to push the handle down even after locking. Maybe you can tell me whether that's normal for any dampening locking mechanism / normal for cheap ones / definitely broken. Here's a short video of me pushing the handle with various amounts of force but generally the same amount of force before and after locking:

I'm not sure whether the one I found on their website that one because it looks different (maybe because it's a different color) but this one is the only 700 Eur fully they list.

I didn't only check out bikes at Decathlon but I also looked around bike shops when I was touring around or just cycling in town and came by one. I don't think I ever saw a fully that cheap, and anything that I'd figure comparable would've cost at least triple that.

Now I know very little about bikes. I never bought a new bike and never ever bought a mountain bike. I used the very old mountain bike my father bought some 20 or more years ago and didn't need anymore. But it broke down recently and is in disrepair, so I'm looking for a new one. It did not have fancy things like a dampening locking mechanism, so I have no experience with that.

What potential improvement is there when spending double the money? I don't wanna spend triple to money but double would be okay. I've got a feeling that I'm really missing something here but even after weeks of thinking about it, I still can't put my finger on it.


texts:
I have a 70's bike with Shimano 600 arabesque components and just bought a pair of Shimano PD-M324. The threads on the new pedals seem to be just a tiny bit too big for the crank arm. I find this weird since (based on some quick research on Google and YouTube) there seems to be just one size for all pedal and crank arm threads, except for small kids bikes.

I'm wondering if anybody else has successfully mounted these pedals on a similar crank arm? Could the pedals be defective?

I can still put the old pedals back on so I don't think the threads on the crank arm are damaged.
Any advice would be great!


texts: Wheel size markings 26x52/56 seem abnormal

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I have an (10y old) mountain bike and wanted to get some spare tubes for the wheels before I head out on longer rides. I looked on my tires and found the markings "26x52/56". This seems to suggest 26" wheels (which match my measurements approximately) and a width of 52-56mm (my tires are around 53mm wide).

However I find it funny and irregular that imperial and metric measurements are mixed here. Looking online it always seems imperial and metric are NOT mixed.  These makes me feel like I've misunderstood these markings.

What do these markings mean, are they actually mixed unit measurements?
Regardless of these measurements, how forgiving is inner tube sizing - if I measure my wheel diameter and width is that a good enough measurement to base my tube-size buying decisions upon?

Thank you kindly.


texts: Change from 2 chain rings to single chain ring on a MTB. What size should I take?

texts:
My current drive train is pretty much used up and needs replacement. I thought with this occasion, I could replace my curret drive train (2 chain rings, 10 speed cassette) with a singe chain ring and 11 speed cassette.

Currently I've got the following parts:

Chainset
Brand: Race Face
Type: Turbine
Sprocket 1: 26 Teeth
Sprocket 2: 36 Teeth

Cassette
Brand: Shimano
Type: Deore XT / CS-M8000
Ration chainring: 11-40 Teeth

I would like to get a single chain ring so I can remove a shifter and also gain more space to the ground. It did happen to me quite a few times that the larger chain ring caught a rock or a tree.

What size of chain ring (teeth) would I need so I'd have about the same transmission as with the current setup (especially regarding climbing)?


texts: Specialized Rockhopper derailleur hanger needed.....which one?

texts:
I need to know which drop out hanger I need for this Specialized Rockhopper.
Part of the frame is chipped at the dropout but it will still bolt on. I just don't know which hanger I need.


texts: In the case of a crash hard enough to buckle a strong front wheel, how should the fork alignment be checked. The bike is a steel tourer and pretty tough.


texts: Tyres self-deflating after being in storage

texts:
I recently took an old Brompton bicycle out of storage after several years. The tyres were deflated (unsurprisingly) so I pumped up the inner tube to check for punctures. I couldn't find any obvious punctures and the tubes did not deflate over the course of the next couple of days.

However when I put the tubes back onto the wheel they deflated within a few hours. Is this because the the inner tube has weakened over time and the pressure of the tyre is forcing the air out? Or is there another reason?

Many thanks in advance for any advice/help.

Chris


texts: I see enough folks wearing helmets in such a manner that they might as well not be.  What is the proper way to fit & wear a bicycle helmet?


texts:
I’m riding Trek Domane 4.3 2015. According to my height (165 cms) I should be riding 52 frame size(according to Trek size chart). The current bike my riding is 54. The only modification I have done is reduced stem size from 90 to 70 mm.

I have done many long distance rides on my current bike. The longest distance I have done is 1000kms that too comfortably.

One of my rider friend suggested me that right frame size can make me efficient and faster.

Do I seriously consider buying right frame size? Or should I continue riding current bike?


texts:
The particular rack is
Cube
Luggage Carrier Bosch

The particular bike is Cannondale Trail 6 with 27.5" wheel size.

Can the rack be attached to my bicycle in a right way?


texts: How is bicycle trailer stability affected by hitch position?

texts:
Bicycle trailers commonly connect to the bike in one of four hitch positions:

A. Rear drop-out (single-sided, usually left/NDS drop-out)

1B. Rear drop-out (both sides; often found in BOB trailers)
Rear rack
Seat stay

How is bike or trailer stability affected by the position of the hitch?


texts: Why are my pedals not in the correct position? one is up the other is pointed forward. they should be 1 up and 1 down. Huffy Rock Creek Shimano


texts: Upgrading crankset on a 2001 Bianchi Grizzly

texts:
So, I managed to pick up a Bianchi Grizzly frame for pretty cheap, with nearly all components included to build up. Included was nearly a full XTR groupset that has seen better days. I installed it all, but the cranks quickly gave out on me (they came somewhat stripped).

As far as replacing them, new XTR parts seem a bit expensive, and I had to use a shim for the front derailleur anyway, so the spacing for front shifting was a little weird. Any recommendations on where to start looking for a new crank/what specs I need to keep in mind to have the right spacing?

OG crankset on this bike was 110mm spindle BB, Raceface Progidy LP crank, and maybe Shimano Deore XT Rapidfire SL derailleurs? Should I base crankset spacing off of that? I'm also not sure if it is worth upgrading both the front derailleur and the crankset at the same time, to make sure the spacing works out?


texts: Does seat post suspension reduce efficiency?

texts:
I have a hybrid bike with front and seat post suspension. It's easy to see how front suspension reduces pedaling efficiency by using some of the power for compressing the shocks, so I keep it locked on paved roads.

In situations where performance is more important than comfort, does a suspended seat post cause any harm to end results? I.e. would I get better times / speeds with a rigid saddle post?


texts: Unable to loosen IXOW Wheelguard Gravity nut

texts:
I have a Canyon Commuter 7.0 which uses IXOW Wheelguard Gravity skewers and nut. I want to take my front wheel off but am unable to loosen the nut on the front skewer.

The standard procedure is to flip the bike upside down and then loosen the nut. This does not work. The instructions state that if the nut cannot be loosened, it should be tightened a little before loosening as doing this should release the locking mechanism. This approach worked for the nut on the seatpost clamp (which uses the same type of nut), but has not worked for the front wheel.

The recommended tightness for the front wheel nut is 5-7Nm. I've already increased it to 8Nm when tightening in an attempt to loosen - it slipped at this point, so I don't want to try much more force in case I damage it.

I've tried flipping the bike upside down a few times, to no avail. What else can I do to try and loosen the nut?


texts: Techniques for minimising injury when falling or crashing?

texts:
I've been riding bikes since I was a child but my partner only started when she was in her 20's. She's had one fall where she lost teeth and is keen to avoid future injuries. I've broken bones twice and had innumerable grazes and scrapes but the frequency of those has been dropping for a while.

We live in Melbourne, no snow in the winter but 45 degree days in the summer are becoming more common (115F). We both commute and generally ride for transport, mostly in urban/suburban streets and bike paths but very rarely on busy multilane roads. Mostly at 20-25kph (25-25kph for me, but it's mostly her I'm concerned with).

My problem is that I've got enough wrestling experience that I automatically bounce, roll and run when I come off my bike. Saying "just study aikido for a few years" is not really what she wants to hear, but we expect she will need to train or practice something. Ideally something specific to cycling rather than just suggesting something like aikido.

She has gloves and wears them sometimes. I almost always wear gloves while riding. So other suggestions for protective clothing etc would also be handy.

I'd like suggestions as to what she can do to minimise future injuries. This is not "how to avoid crashes" but "what to do when you crash".


texts: What are the benefits of cycling gloves?

texts:
So cycling gloves? I don't see how this can change my experience of riding bicycles.

Someone please explain what benefits I get from them. Maybe I would buy some if the benefits are good enough.


texts: Selecting a drivetrain for touring bicycle

texts:
I am planning to build a touring bike with a Surly LHT frame. I'm looking for some advice on selecting a drive train.

My requirements are:

Reliability - I am planning on doing weeks or months long tours.
Ease of repair if necessary in remote locations, including in the developing world.
Ability to get parts in the future, I am building it to last 10+ years.

On my current bike I have a Shimano 7-speed drive train. I am quite happy with that. I tour around the UK over all terrain without problems. But 7 and 8 speeds are becoming less common now. I don't fancy going above 10-speed, it doesn't provide any advantage but make it less reliable.

Should I go for 8 or 9-speed? If so what drive train group set is good?
Any recommendation will be appreciated.


texts: I snagged the wire on my Cateye Mity 8 computer on the rack the other day and broke it mid wire.  I'm going to fix it by splicing them back together.  I'm worried about effects of getting the wires crossed.  I'm going to take some care not to cross them, but if I do, will it cause problems?  What readings should I get from it with a multi-meter?


texts: What can be done wrong changing the chain in a single speed?

texts:
I changed the chain of my singlespeed. I though it was going to be something really simple and quick, but I was completely wrong...

I keep getting a lot of noise while I'm pedaling (unless I go really slow/downhill)

What I've done:

Remove the old chain (It had around 1500-2000km).
Measure the number of links and cut the new change to the same number.
Close the chain.
Adjust tension so it can be moved around 3-4cm in vertical direction.
Center the wheel.

The same in photos:

I ordered a singlespeed chain and I think it is the same as what I had, at least I don't see any difference. The silver chain is the new one:

Installed:

Tension:

If I added tension the pedals would not move freely backwards, if I remove tension it feels too loose.

I tried first without lubing, and then when I heard so much noise I added some oil but didn't make much of a difference.

What am I missing? The noise is the all the time when I pedal in in the whole range of motion.

Added photos of the cog and chainring:


texts: Is it normal for a presta valve to unscrew into two pieces?

texts:
I have a Continental Road inner tube with a threaded presta valve. I also have a threaded bike pump which I screw onto the valve to inflate the tube.

When I try to unscrew the pump, the uppermost part of the valve unscrews and detaches from the main body of the valve and all the air rushes out.

Is it normal for a presta valve to be separable into two parts like this? How can I prevent this from happening?


texts: What to look for in a good entry-level CX bike?

texts:
I am in the market for a new bike. It is really my first bike, I am borrowing an old 1980's Cannondale road bike from a friend currently. I have an 8-mile daily commute (1-way, 16 total miles put on 4 or 5 days a week) and I am looking for a bike that I can put some racks and fenders on.

However, I am also super interested in getting into CX racing, we have an awesome local community for it and I have been getting to know some people in it. I also don't have a ton of money (recent college student, I am buying a bike so I don't have to buy a car and spend money on fuel and expensive repairs).

For example, there is a Trek Crossrip Elite near me for sale for $650, and I was thinking about jumping on that, but I don't want to be too hasty. I know people say that they would rather have the 105 set rather than the SORA, but I hope to save up some money for a dedicated CX race bike in a couple years, or something similar that I wouldn't be using for commuting, but I need something now.

So what features ( geometry, component level ) should I look for in a good entry-level CX bike that would work for racing as well as a general purpose commuter?


texts: Do 7-speeder and 21-speeder have similar minimum range of gear-inches?

texts:
I want to buy a entry-level folding bike for slow-speed commuting, involving 20 minutes ride going over a steep hill of 1500 foot (500 meters). It is concrete 'normal car road', not off-road.

What gear-inch value should I look for in choosing a simple beginner bike suitable for the given task.

Would a 6-speed folding bike with 20 inches wheel and xxx gear-inch value be adequate? That is, have enough 'low gear' to comfortably-and-slowly going over the hill and no need for more expensive 21-speeder?


texts:
I have a Sram 10 speed cassette and I'm looking to upgrade to Shimano XT M8000 1x11. I wanted to know if I can use the same freehub body or if I need to get a new one.

Thank you for your help.


texts: Can we use low-end front derailleur with an 11 speed crankset?

texts:
Can we use a low-end front derailleur like Shimano Tourney 2x with an 11 speed 2x Shimano (105, Ultegra or Dura-ace) crankset? If not, how low can I go?

Just needs confirmation base from this link I've read.

Compatibility [05] Front derailleurs


texts:
I live in a city on the east coast. I recently had my bike stolen. The frame was locked to a bike rack using a u-lock. They either picked or cut the u-lock.

My simple question is: where do thieves sell stolen bicycles?

More specific questions:

If they sell them on Craigslist, how far away are they likely to sell them? Surely not the same city, right?
Are they likely to wait a few months before selling them, in order to let the heat die down?
I imagine flea markets and bike swaps are dangerous places to sell bikes?
What are the top sites on the internet?

Any input is helpful!


texts:
I have a Specialized Langster (really old model i think), and it got ran over, well the rims did, and I don't know which ones to get. I wanted to buy the rims and the spokes separate.

I would like some velocity b43's but I cant find them anywhere. How can I find out what rims I need?


texts: Cannondale SAVE frame technology in entry price

texts:
I'm wondering if the so called "SAVE" technology from Cannondale makes any difference in the enry-mid price such as Cannondale Trail 4? (they publicize as a micro-suspension technology). In concrete comparing with similar price-range bikes from other manufacturers such as Giant.

Thanks!


texts: Damaged full-suspension linkage surfaces - creaking noises

texts:
I just got a brand new, high-end aluminium full suspension bike and after the first ride the bottom frame linkage (the big one, near the cranks) started making loud noises (video link with sound).
After disassemblying it, i noticed that both the frame and the pivot spacer (which sits between the 2 frame contact points) were damaged, as if scrap metal was stuck in there from the factory and was grinding all along. Also, there was no lubrication/grease whatsoever: pure, rough metal-to-metal contact.
Some pictures of the issue follow:

Since the scratches were not deep (0.5mm - 1/64"), I decided to use a nail-file to smooth out both the frame and the spacer surfaces, then applied lots of grease and re-assembled the bike. It works fine but I'm not sure i've solved the problem or it's just gonna re-appear and eventually make my (new) frame unusable.
I would love to hear any opinions/ideas/solutions. I've contacted the company and my LBS but their queues are very long. Thank you very much!
Some "after" pictures follow:


texts:
I have been braking for a bit too long with worn off brake pads on not so new rims so I basically killed them.

I currently have the stock wheels of an FX Trek 7.2 bike.

I will most probably change them. The thing is, that I would like to use the opportunity to install thinner tires. The current rims would support a range of 28-37mm wide tires.

The wheels I am looking at support 19-28mm wide tire range.

Will any of those new wheels fit on my bike without any further replacing? for instance because of the width of the fork?

How about brakes? I will obviously need to tweak them, but will it require more than just a set-up?


texts: road bike to road bike with mountain bike fram with full suspension

texts: I currently own a specialized sirrus comp, and I was wondering if I could swap all the parts on that bike other than the frame to a demo 8 frame with 200mm of travel. If it is possible to add full suspension to my road bike, that would be prefered.


texts: How effective is checking spoke tension by ear?

texts: Sheldon Brown's Wheelbuilding page links to the article: Check Spoke Tension by Ear. Obviously a tensiometer would be ideal, but Sheldon suggests that checking spoke tension by ear is a reasonable alternative. The article was written in 1987 and updated in 1997; are there any developments from the last 10 to 20 years that would invalidate the technique or require adaptation? For example, the article mentions that dished wheels require a different pitch on the left and right sides, but how great should this difference in pitch be? In general, how effective is tensioning by ear?


texts:
I own an old road bike from the 80’s I quite like. To this day, all the original parts are still on the bike, except the last mudguard that broke this year. The wear and tear is getting more noticeable lately, especially the wheels and the breaks. Shifting is not as smooth as it used to be, but it’s not a major concern. The wheels are probably the biggest problem since the wheel ring is not totally straight so the brake pads need to be further apart which is reducing the braking performance. Also last month 3 spokes broke. I am thinking of upgrading the bike for some time now, but I don’t know if new parts will fit on the old bike or if it can be achieved without spending too much money.

So I would like to replace the wheels because I don’t think it is worth repairing them. The current size is 27 x 1 1/4. I read a lot they can be replaced with 700c wheels. But when I look at 700c wheels I find a lot of different sizes mostly 29 inches. I don’t wanna buy wrong ones. My current last wheel has 5 gears. So should I look for a wheel with 5 gears as well ? A lot ot rear wheels online do not seem to have any gears.

The breaks are not the best anymore and it’s not easy even to adjust them. I am wondering what kind of brakes can I install on an old bike. Can I install something like Shimano sora brakes?  They are quite cheap for around 20€. I included some pictures of the bike and the brakes so you have a better picture of the bike.

Some pictures:

The bike

Front brakes

Front brakes 2

Rear brakes

Rear brakes 2


texts: Why are my disk brakes rubbing when wet and not dry?

texts: I'm experiencing rotor rub in both my front and rear brakes. This will only occur when wet. So for example after adjusting the caliper by loosening the mount bolts pulling the brake and tightening I can eliminate all rotor rub. If I splash some water on the caliper or rotor they start to rub/grind. Why does this happen?


texts: How much does it cost to race in the Tour de France?

texts:
Assuming one makes it onto a pro team that's been selected, I was wondering how much it costs per rider to race in the Tour?

I'm interested in the set cost for each rider to race, if there is one, and also how much (approximately) it actually costs the team to put the rider through, taking into consideration all the ancillary costs like bikes, mechanics, team busses and cars, food, lodging, etc.


texts: I would like to know what is the weight difference between Sora and 105 group set.


texts: I am looking for the type of "cycle touring shoe" we had before cleated, clipless became the norm.  I have used clipless 'touring', i.e., non-racing, shoes without the cleat but the soles are thick to accomodate the inset cleat.  The old cycle touring shoes had thin soles and without the heavy lugging of modern clipless shoes meant for cleats.  Most cyclist don't use cleats.  Why can't we find cycle specific shoes for non-cleat use?  How about in the rest of the world where faux racing styles don't dominate as in North America?


texts: How to improve my performance on a commute?

texts:
I commute to work on a Trek 7100e hybrid bike. It's about 15 miles (24km) each way, along flattish suburban roads and a (fairly smooth) canal towpath. It takes me about an hour. Due to the distance (and extra time compared to driving), I only do this about once a week. I'm a medium-height, slightly built guy, reasonable fitness level. What is the best way to improve my speed and reduce my time, without spending much money?

Pedals - I don't really want to go clipless due to the expense, but I'd consider it if it's the best way. Are toe clips and straps likely to make much difference?
Reducing 'luggage weight'. My standard pack for work is a change of clothes and some basic bike maintenance stuff (tube, pump, tools, and a cable lock). It's currently in a double pannier that's probably overkill. Should I consider going to a rack trunk, a handlebar bag (no rack required), or something else? I don't like cycling that far with a backpack.
Tyres - change to slicks? Or narrower tyres? Would that mean I'd need to change the wheels too?
I'd assumed (and read somewhere here) that changing to drop handlebars would be more trouble than it's worth.
Something I haven't thought of?

EDIT - just a quick update. A work colleague had some spare LOOK clipless pedals and shoes, so I gave them a try. And I'm a convert! I see a definite improvement in performance, especially in acceleration - I can get up to speed a lot quicker than I could before. Thanks to everyone who answered. I'll probably try skinnier tyres too, but not until I actually need to change them.

EDIT three years on. I upgraded to a road bike (Pinnacle Dolomite 4, 2016) and that's been the biggest improvement in speed. I still have a rack on the back (just a rack top bag now, no panniers), clipless pedals, and 25mm tyres inflated to 100psi. I usually try to leave some clothes in work to reduce weight. Record time is now 51 minutes!


texts: Need help to put gear shifter back together!

texts:
My daughter has Shimano SL TX30 gears on her bike....I think they might be Tourney, from searches I've done. The gears on the right handlebar has a button to go down gears. I stupidly took it off the bike and opened it, with plans of changing the cable. Well couple bits of plastic popped out and I don't know how they go back in to be able to change gears with it. If you use either the lever or the button for changing gears it would make a clicking sound. I'm hoping someone might have a pic of the inside so I know where and how the pieces go back in.
Searched the Internet with no luck as yet.

Thanks in advance xox


texts:
Yesterday someone stole my bike seat along with the seat post. I am planning to buy a new seat with post that fits it. My bike is a Bulls Pulsar mountain bike. I have found a seat on Amazon but I have not found a seat post that would fit this seat. I request for your help. Thanks.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DB3KVPS/

and this is my bike:

https://www.radonline.de/bulls-pulsar-street-21-gang-kettenschaltung-herrenfahrrad-trekking-modell-2018-26-zoll-schwarz-matt.html


texts: What is the folded size of ORI AR18 or ORI CR87?

texts:
I'm assuming ORI AR18 and ORI CR87 use the same frame design and size. I couldn't find any specs on these bikes about its folded dimension.

http://www.oribikes.com/ori/upload/download/2012%20Catalogue.pdf


texts: How to adjust cable length on integrated brake/shift levers, when there is no barrel adjuster?

texts:
I feel bad asking this question because I've been doing bicycle maintenance for over 20 years and this seems like a noob question.  I was unable to find a Shimano manual to answer this question.  I just bought a Norco Threshold CX bike with Shimano Ultegra SL-RS685 brake/shift levers.  I want to adjust the cable length for the front derailleur to fine-tune the derailleur position.  The cable is routed inside the frame and there is no barrel adjuster to be found anywhere.  I looked under the brake hood and did not see anything that appeared to be involved in adjusting the cable length.

Obviously I could adjust the cable length at the derailleur, by loosening the bolt, moving the cable a tiny bit, and tightening the bolt again. But it seems difficult to do fine adjustment that way.

In case you're wondering why I'm adjusting the derailleur on a brand new bike: The front derailleur wasn't shifting properly because the rear fender (installed by bike store) interfered with it. Before I figured that out, I thought the cable length needed adjusting, and I couldn't figure out how to do it.  Techically I can leave the cable alone for now, but eventually it will need adjusting and I would like to know how to do that.


texts: How easy is it to explode a tubeless tire whilst seating, and how do I avoid this?

texts:
I installed tubeless tires about two months ago, but the back tire had been leaking fluid and yesterday went completely flat. All the fluid inside has dried up and a lot of it had built up between the tire and the rim wall, so I'm guessing I didn't seat it properly first time. I remember I heard a small pop and stopped inflating because I was worried I would blow the tire off the rim. It seems I was being over cautious though so now that I have to redo everything I would like to know how afraid I should be of having the tire explode, how long it should take for an air compressor to seat the tire and when to know that it's time to stop.
The tires I'm using are 700cx35 gravel king tubeless ready tires with a max psi of 60


texts: Is there anything I can do to prevent snakebites (pinch flats)?

texts:
Riding in an urban setting, I've lost two tubes in the last week to snakebites, and it's easily the most common way for me to get a flat. I've got Gatorskin treads, which help prevent standard punctures, but don't seem to do much (read: anything) for snakebites. Wheel set is extremely similar to the Mavic Ellipse, i.e., very thin. Other than avoiding potholes/curbs/edges*, is there anything that I can do to cut down on this?

Some more information for those interested:

Wheel set is the Mavic Ellipse, whoops - previous owner removed all identifying labels, probably as a theft deterrent. Here's the only tag left on the tire:

Tubes are 700x23, sometimes I cram a 700x25 in there
I inflate "until it feels good," usually ~110/115 psi, tire feels hard and there's no give if I push on it, usually bounces almost as high as the height I drop it from
Rider weight ~190lbs

*Yesterday I got bit by a patch of gravel. Seriously.

Also, no chance in hell I'm trading these rims out. They cost more than a month's rent.

Update: Yesterday's ride home

So when I left work yesterday, I pumped my tires up to 145 psi as suggested by @freiheit, and it's embarrassingly obvious that I have not been putting enough air in my tires (as in, "holy crap, this is awesome, why didn't somebody tell me this sooner?"). The ride was a little bouncier, but my acceleration and top speed were significantly increased.

That being said, I still got a flat about mile 7. Good news, it wasn't a snakebite, so that's nice for a change. Got home, put a new tube in and tried pumping to 150 psi, and the tire blew up*, and it failed suspiciously near the first flat. I didn't find anything in the tread (glass/nails/whatever) or any glaring defects/breaches, but the tread is pretty old and worn out at this point, so I ordered a new one. This of course, was before @amcnabb pointed out that those tires are slightly larger than the max recommended tire size for the wheelset.

I'll update this once I get my new tire, but it looks like not enough air + old tire might have been the source of my troubles.

*Especially embarrassing living in Watertown, MA, where my neighbors are pretty suspicious of loud noises right now. I got a few dirty looks.


texts: How secure are Security Wheel Skewers like Zéfal Lock'n'Roll?

texts:
I'm looking for a reliable locking system for my wheels to prevent being stolen, specifically for the front wheel as I always attach the rear one together with the frame with the U-lock.

I look for something easy, not an additional wire or U-lock. I found several systems ranging from 15€ (Zéfal, Point) to 36€ (HexLock - this is pretty cool and seems secure to me).

Back to Zéfal Lock'n'Roll - wouldn't it be possible to break it just with a pliers, using it to unscrewing the nut at the other side of the lock? It seems a plain nut to me and even don't have cone shape to avoid to be caught and unscrew with the pliers.

So do I am right? Anyone can confirm it? Is then more secure than a plain nut?


texts: I am wondering if people prefer equally spaced gears (such as 20% per gear change) or if (like on motorcycles), the lower gears are spread out more and the upper gears are "tighter" (more closely spaced as far as ratios).  From my limited bicycle riding experience, other than the super low granny gear ratio, I like to have the lower gears spread out so the shifts are not instantaneous, and have the higher gears closer so for example, if you are chugging along at a good pace and encounter a slight headwind, you may not want to downshift and get about 20% more cadence.  Perhaps 10% will suffice.  Motorcycles generally have a spread of about 2.5 (street bikes) and some dual sport bikes are as wide as 3.  For bicycles, since we have very limited input power (generally about a few hundred watts max), it seems we need many more gears and much closer spaced to harness that little bit of power.


texts: Did SRAM change/update their 10 speed PowerLink?

texts:
On a rare occurrence this weekend I managed to completely destroy my SRAM PowerLink. So I went over to my LBS and got a new one; however, when I went to install it, it was super hard to close the link (I ended up giving up after a bit since it would only go half way).

After giving it a night and then trying again, I decided perhaps I had bent the chain links where the PowerLink was, so I bought a new chain. The chain came with the same PowerLink and I had the same problem. Eventually I got it but now I'm most likely going to need to saw it off (just kidding, will need pliers though) if it needs removing.

The only difference I can see is that they went from a gold colored plate to a black one, but it's still 10 speed (and the chain is SRAM as well). Anyone know if they have modified thickness, shape, or anything else?


texts: Gap between internal cartridge headset and fork

texts:
so I've replaced the bottom headset on my 2016 Kona Jake the Snake as the old one was rough and rusted. The replacement is the same size in all dimensions however doesn't seem to fit in properly - between the fork and the bottom of the frame there's a sizeable gap. There's no movement in the headset, it's just got about 5mm of space.

The headset purchased is the following: https://www.evanscycles.com/pro-headset-replacement-bearing-outer-52-inner-40-height-7-mm-EV204261

This photo shows that gap, I estimate it to be around 5mm.

this photo shows how it was before tightened the compression screw on the top. I noticed it wasn't quite right so tried to remove it - but it's now jammed into the frame. Comparing the old headset's fit onto the fork, it sits in a very similar way, albeit with a very slightly smaller gap.

This image shows the factory photos of the bike - the gap is visible, which makes me think it's always been like this. There's no crown race on the bottom of the fork, only the taper.

I guess my question is threefold - firstly is there anything that can be done to fix this? the second is, is this safe to ride like this? It seems it's been close to this from factory and the replacement headset is identical to the old one (both are cartridges btw!) The final question is - if it isn't sad for fixable - how does one go about removing a wedged headset cartridge from the frame without mangling it?

Many thanks!


texts: Are 28 / 47 - 622 / 635 tubes ok to replace my 28 / 44 - 622 ones?

texts:
I recently got my first flat on my Cube hooper
It has 37 - 622 (28 x 1.40 - 700 x 35c) schwalbe tyres on it.

I ordered the new tube online before pulling the old one off, picking what I thought were the same tubes but the numbers are slightly different.

Are the 28 / 47 - 622 / 635 tubes i got ok to replace my 28 / 44 - 622 ones?

Thanks


texts:
Crashed into a fallen tree at speed on my bike. I disassembled the front end to inspect for damage and noticed I could wiggle the bottom headset cup back and forth slightly. On further inspection, the bottom of the headtube is slightly deformed as can be seen in the below pictures:

There are no cracks or other damage visible, but the bottom cup no longer fits firmly in the frame.

Does anyone have experience fixing something like this on an aluminum frame (not too expensively) or is the frame/bike ruined? I know aluminum loses its strength as it's bent.

Searching online I was able to find references to epoxying the bottom cup in place and using strips of aluminum to pad the gap, but that doesn't sound like a particularly safe fix.


texts: Building a city/trail bike with a CX frame, what should I consider?

texts:
What would be a good build for a 80% city / 20% trail bike?

I recently purchased a Cinelli Mash CXSS frame, I will be mainly riding in the city but wanted to also take it to the trails every couple of months.

I also was thinking of building this up as fixed gear (with a front Canti break), so would welcome points on that too.

First post so take it easy i am new to building bikes but have owned a few roadies before.


texts: I have a handful of rusty screws on my bike; where can I find such small parts?


texts:
I'm an old-time bike rider who commuted to grad school every day for 3 years on a bicycle.  Then after a 20+-year-long hiatus, started riding again with my son.  I cannot figure out the fitting on the modern pumps.  I can get some air in, but after several cases of the thing flying off or making an embarrassing leaking, whoosh sound with every stroke.

Q: Are pumps with the  old-style, screw-on fittings available anywhere anymore?

Q: Is there a good reason I should appreciate the new fitting?


texts: Is it possible to convert Deore Crankset FC-M612 to single speed?

texts: I would like to change this crankset to singlespeed, it has 96 BCD so I was thinking to order bash guard replacing the 40t chainring. The bashguard is this one http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/96-bcd-bash-ring-for-shimano-compact-triple . Is it possible to remove the smallest 22t chainring to virtually have a single speed crankset? Thank you for your answers


texts: Can I use a gas station air pump on a bike tire?

texts: Someone pointed out that it may be risky, and it might not have the right kind of nozzle, but I don't have a bike pump at the moment.  Does anyone else ever do this?


texts:
I wana ask you guys for some advise. Wish to buy a bicycle for my husband for Chritsmas. He sure did mention he would like a road bike and not a mountain bike.
He is 5'6 tall and weighs approx 170pounds.
I am confused about the frame size and the various options of brakes etc.
My budget is about 500$
Can you guys help me narrow down my search or throw in some names bike brands I can look for? Also which site is recommended? Or which store is better to go have a look? Would really appreciate your advise! Thanks


texts: Where can I find replacement pads for a bicycle helmet?

texts: I have a Bell bicycle helmet that is probably two years old, and the pads for the front and sides have disintegrated from sweat and are now little more than pieces of fabric attached to the velcro pads inside the helmet.  Does anyone know where I can get replacement pads for the helmet?  I have looked on retail sites like jensonusa.com and on the bellhelmets.com site and I can't seem to find them.


texts: My SRAM X3 rear derailleur will only shift to the lowest gear but won't shift back higher

texts:
The rear shifter is new and the shifters work smoothly but only can shift to the bigger sprocket and no matter what I do the shifter doesn't shift back to the smaller sprocket.

I don't know if this affects shifting, but my bike's cable housing used to be in several parts but now I made only one housing.


texts: Hydraulic brake bleed fail - try again or replace?

texts:
I bled and completely replaced the fluid on a set of Tektro Orion hydraulic brakes, using Shimano mineral oil.  Before bleeding, one worked a little bit, and the other didn't at all.  In my impression, these are shit brakes.
Problems while bleeding:

The fluid was dripping everywhere- when I loosened the bleed nipple to fill the brakes, the bleed nipple gasket was either locked on, or so loose that the fluid would just drain out of the threads while trying to fill it.
The lever bleed port is on the side (makes for difficult syringe tube angle) and, despite being screwed in all the way, was also very leaky.
I did not have Tektro bleed blocks.  I used the bleed blocks I had, which seemed perfectly fine.
I was thoroughly unhappy with how poorly the syringe hose attached to the bleed nipple.  I'm using the proper kit, but it would barely stay on- I had to hold the hose in place on the bleed nipple the whole time

Despite these issues, I was able to bleed the lines and top them up.  Upon securing the bleed nipple and caliper bleed bolt back into place, everything seemed fine.  After riding for ~100 meters, they were useless.
Repeated 3x, same result.
Questions and concerns:

Used shimano fluid instead of Tektro, but that shouldn't matter.
Can I remove the bleed nipple and screw in an adapter instead?  I would need to order one to do this.
Should I try to get new bleed nipples and caliper bleed screws?
My suspicion is that the gaskets are shot and I should replace them.  Is it worth the effort?

I'm a mechanic- but three senior mechanics told me to trash these brakes and replace them with a better model.  I agree with this advice, but the owner of the bike doesn't agree.  On the one hand, I don't want to waste my time on shit brakes.  On the other, I am stubborn and like to get things to work.  What would you do?  I'm feeling a bit hopeless about trying to bleed them again- I'm curious if I am missing some trick or technique to deal with really finicky bleeds.
Update:
There is excess lever travel - the pads just don't clamp on the rotors.  The pads are fine and don't need to be replaced.
I'm using a BBB mineral oil bleed kit.  I've ordered a better shimano and jagwire one.


texts: Effectiveness of techniques to improve the performance of rim brakes

texts:
My bike does not perform badly at the moment, however browsing this site has lead me to wonder whether the performance of the brakes (the front one in particular) could be improved by various means and how effective those are. I am squeezing fairly hard and stopping in a short distance, however I am looking to improve the 'stopping force per force applied to levers' ratio.

My bike is a road bike that has single pivot side-pull calliper brakes and alloy rims. I think the pads are rubber (not sure exactly).

The techniques I can think of are:

(already done) Steel to alloy rims? Answer: Large performance improvement in wet conditions
Single pivot to dual pivot? Wikipedia says "These brakes offer a higher mechanical advantage, and resulting better braking." What is the experienced improvement?
Changing to materials for the brake pads (Rubber, leather, cork)?


texts: I have a rescued bike with rear Maillard Helico Matic hub. I decided to replace the ball bearings and removed the old ones. Cages, balls, and cones looked ok. I measured old balls and they were cca. 3,7mm in diameter. I looked around on the intewerbs and found this site with the picture below. The hub on the picture looks exactly like mine. Well, the decal has a bit different graphics but by eyeballing everything else is identical. The picture says that this hub takes 5/32" ball bearings, which is bigger than my measured 3,7 mm by about 0,2 mm. Is it possible for ball bearings to wear this much?


texts:
I use the plain self-centering side-pull cantilever brakes found on 99.9% of road bikes. (Well, it's a road bike. ;) ) I've got alloy rims. Both my current internship location and back home are moderately hilly areas, which force me to "ride" the brakes quite a bit. I "pulse" the brakes a bit in order to reduce heat build up and all that jazz, but it seems I go through the pads themselves quite quickly -- my last rear pads lasted less than half a season, and the ones I replaced them with look to be on their last leg now.

I don't have any issues with braking performance -- I just would like to find something that will last longer.

What should I look for? Am I out of luck (e.g. have to switch to something like a center-pull brake design?)


texts:
What is the best way to wash a bike helmet?

The straps are getting a bit rank from sweat and I'd like a better alternative to just hosing it down.


texts:
Had a thorn in my tyre last night, the tube has sealant in it, which worked.
How long is it likely to last, or should I change/repair the tube as soon as possible.
28 mm almost slick tyres running with 110 psi.

To clarify, the tyre has an innertube that came with sealant already inside the tube. I removed the thorn and the hole sealed, it is still holding pressure. The recommended pressure for the tyre is up to 120 psi.


texts: Can I fit v brakes on 2003 Marzocchi MX Pro Suspension Forks

texts:
I've got some very similar forks to this

and I want to know if I can use v brakes with them. It looks like there is a thread to screw in some bosses, but I'm not 100% sure.


texts: Will 11 speed 55-42T Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 crankset will be compatible with an 8 speed 11-28T cassette and shifter?

texts:
Will a Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 55-42T crankset be compatible with my current Shimano 8 speed 11-28T cassette?

The purpose of this change is for Time Trialling.


texts:
Because of the Xmas sales some internet shops started making offers on roll trainers. My target area would be an intermediate machine, something that I would use an hour or so daily, with two-three hours rides once per week (the actual usage of the trainer will be lower as I tend to alter biking with jogging, swimming, and work-outs/yoga in the gym).

Currently I narrowed down my search to these models:

Kurt Kinetic Road Machine II T2200: 330 Euro
Tacx Rollentrainer T-2200 Flow: 200 Euro
Tacx Ergotrainer T2220 Flow Multiplayer VR Trainer : 333 Euro
2014 Cycleops Fluid Turbo Trainer Fluid 2: 300 Euro

I am a frequent half-marathon runner and passionat mountain and road-biker. Currently, I am training for a marathon. Any comments, which model should I opt? As one may notice, I opt for a machine that is around 300 Euro.


texts: How to know what size bottom bracket to buy

texts: I feel like I'm missing something and can't figure out what size bottom bracket to buy. I'm planning on building a bike and am picking out all the parts before I buy them. I am planning on buying a Poloandbike CMNDR frame and Sugino Pista Crankset. I was looking on the geometries for the frame and couldn't find a description for the size of the bottom bracket I need. Is this something I would figure out in some other way?


texts: Installing flat pedals (with pins) on a MTB for rainy/wintry conditions?

texts:
I have some RaceFace Chester pedals that I want to install on my beater MTB, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea. Basically, I have two bikes and I want to use one for the "bad" weather conditions (rain/snow).

I've never ridden in the rain or snow before, so I wanted to know: would it be a bad idea if I installed those Chester pedals on my beater bike for riding in the rain/snow? I guess I don't know if the pins will rust out on me in those conditions, or if the plastic casing will just crack from cold temps and road salt. (I live in Boston.) In that case, would it be better to get all metal pedals?


texts: How do I correctly align the brake disc with the callipers when replacing my quick-release wheel?

texts:
My bike's front wheel is quick-release (QR), but the rear has a traditional skewer (because of the hub gears). It also has disc brakes, and as you'd expect, there isn't a lot of clearance between the brake pads and the discs.

When removing and replacing the wheels, I find it easy to make sure the rear wheel is free of the pads: when I close one eye and peer through the brake calliper assembly, I can see light either side of the disc. If I can't see light on one side, I loosen the nut on that side of the axle, and tighten the other one. Then when I spin the wheel, it spins freely.

But when I replace the front wheel with the QR skewer, I find that as tightening the QR pulls the forks together slightly, I often end up with the disc touching one of the pads. I then have to undo the QR, loosen or tighten it by half a turn or so, and then try again. Usually it takes me two or three tries to get it right, and I don't think the QR is really tight enough when the wheel is free to rotate.

Is there an easier way to get it lined up? In case it makes a difference, the pads and discs are about 6 months old and I use them every day in all weathers.


texts: What brands of handlebar tape match the Brooks B17 Aged saddle?

texts:
This is kind of a frivolous bike question, but I am rebuilding a 1980s road bike to look like an old French porteur bike. The frame of my bike is a light silver blue color and I'd like to swap out the current saddle with a Brooks Aged B17 saddle. But I can't seem to find handlebar tape that matches the Brooks Aged saddle. Any ideas?

I've attached a photo of the road bike (a 1982 Miyata). The drop bars will be replaced with VO Belleville bars and Dia Compe inverse brake levers and, of course, the saddle in the photo will be replaced with a Brooks B17 Aged saddle. Besides leather I'm open to cotton cloth tape and could do a shellac coating but don't know what color cotton tape and shellac to use to match the Brooks saddle. I find photos on Amazon, etc. tend to show one color and when the product arrives it's a completely different color.


texts: Shimano EX Crankset Pedals Compatibility

texts:
I recently bought an old Shimano EX crankset, which I'd like to mount new clip-on pedals to (Shimano Dura-Ace PD-R9100).
Does anyone have any experience with using new clip-on pedals on vintage cranks?
Thank you,
Fynn


texts:
I have a Raleigh Strada hybrid with flat handlebars.

Have recently been getting some discomfort in the neck and shoulder area which I suspect is down to poor posture on the bike.

Are there any excercises I can do to improve things?


texts: Cannondale CAAD12 headset proprietary or replaceable?

texts:
Just wondering if the headsets used in the CAAD12 frames include replaceable bearing cups, or if the cups are integrated into the frame (non-replaceable). I'm also wondering if the headsets are standard, and therefore replaceable with a good aftermarket set?
Thanks.


texts:
I picked up an old mavic wheel, and I'm having a tough time just finding some nuts for the axles. I went through a bin at my community bike shop and couldnt find anything that fit the threads.
The wheel says CXP 22 on it.

Is there a specific kind of nut I should be looking for for these wheels?


texts: Shimano STI shifters: do they come in different sizes?

texts:
I was sure that there's only one size for Shimano road bike shifters. But now I'm helping a friend to choose a bicycle and it seems that a lot of them have bigger shifters judging by images that I'm looking at. Is this just my perception or do they frequently come in different sizes?
EDIT: is it possible that disc brake shifters are larger than rim ones?


texts:
Brake pads for a rim brake are usually treated with Carbon Black (powered carbon) to make them last longer. This is what makes them black.

When I ride a road bike in hilly areas, the carbon black accumulates on the rim and on areas surrounding the brake pads. Later, if I ride the bike in the rain (without fenders), this powder mixes with dirty water kicked up by the wheels, and spreads around on the frame of the bike, and into gaps on the headset and bottom bracket. If allowed to dry, it becomes extremely difficult to remove.

Right now I remove as much as I can with elbow grease, and then make an abrasive paste out of water and baking soda. The paste works pretty well, but leaves a residue. Further, on some of the really bad stains, it seems to spread out the carbon as much as clean it off. It still needs a lot of rubbing.

Is there a standard cleaner in which carbon black is soluble? Is there a better way to remove it?


texts:
I have an Ultegra R8020 lever and I recently did a cable change. Everything worked fine for a few moments then on the first ride the left shifter wouldn't click up into the big ring. After a few attempts it crunched into place. After investigation I found that if you ever so slightly touch the paddle to shift down gear then the upper shifter will not work. This isn't the same on the right hand shifter which shifts fine.
I've taken the lever and hood off, degreased, greased and it works slightly better, but it feels like a mechanical issue instead of dirt or grit stuck in there.
Are there any tips on how I could rectify the problem? The shifter was in otherwise good condition before the cable change. It is nothing to do with the derailleur or cable, I can confirm its the shifter that is sticking.
Thanks for your help,
Brad


texts: How reliable is the "smart" brake detection on a $20 tail light?

texts:
Here are some "smart" tail lights I found on Amazon:

Having the same looks, prices, description grammar, no-name random "brand" names and sometimes even stock photos and videos, these seem like each-other's knock-offs coming from the same factory.
While I absolutely love the brake detection idea, should trust these with the technology and execution?
Or is there a bigger brand that introduced this idea that I should go for instead?


texts: Bicycle clicking popping sound felt in the pedals usually when pedalling hard

texts:
Bicycle is a year old fairly cheap road bike with ~1000 miles.
Transmission is 2x7 speed-derailleur design, so 14 gears total.
Clicking noise somewhere near the drivetrain-ish area when pedaling uphill or somewhat aggressively.
Started happening recently after I changed my rear inner tube.
Clicking/popping is periodic but much more than one crank rotation.
At worst, there is a loud pop felt in the pedals and the chain seems to skip.
Worst in gear 4-5.
Not very noticeable in gear 1 or 7.
Not noticeable when freewheeling or pedaling backwards.
Still pops/clicks when pedaling standing instead of on the seat.
I took the rear wheel off and put it back on to make sure the axle is seated properly.

I'm now out of ideas for what it could be. I'd really appreciate ideas.


texts: How does riding on bumpy road while suspension fork locked and without slow down effects?

texts: Is urban riding on bumpy road while suspension fork locked and without slow down harming to my bike or me? I don't care about my comfort so much. I don't want to slow down or to lose energy.


texts: Is there way to fix a disc brake rotor if slightly bent?

texts: Rear disc on my Acid 2016 is little bit bent so while riding it makes a strange noise when that part of disc comes through the caliper. Is there any way fix that or should I buy new disc?


texts: Will my drivetrain freeze if left outside in the winter?

texts:
I have to leave my bike outside at work for 8-10 hours at a time.

If it's -3°C or -6°C, is there anything special I need to do to ensure it will still ride when I'm ready to go home? i.e., will it freeze up?

Also, I can bring it inside at home but I read somewhere that the constant defrosting/refrosting could be worse than just leaving it out in the cold 24/7. Is this true?


texts: Can this rim damage be fixed or do I need a new rim?

texts: I somehow managed to ride over a screw that pierced through my tire and was long enough to reach the rim. It scratched the rim a few times (for as many wheel revolutions that it took me to stop the bike); see picture below. When I put my finger over the scratches they feel quite rough which will certainly not be good for the tube I imagine. Is there any way such damage can be fixed without having to replace the rim?


texts: Fork seized to frame: can I just hammer it down now?

texts:
I need to service a headset of bike as it was initially not even turning without applying strength. And even then it would make an awful noise. I suspect a lot of rust in there.
I have removed the bolts and spacing rings, one more spacer at the bottom. And I am left with this

I have hit it lightly with a hammer, and wood cushion in-between. It has not bulged. I am about to hit it harder, but I do not want to do anything destructive. From the picture does it look like I need to remove more spacers?
Edit:
I have got my hand over removing the fork and putting it back together, after servicing the bearings and cleaning up. The end result is not good though, there is still friction, steering feels rough and there is noise from metal on metal scratching. I suspect it's the state of the top bearings. They seem to be loose ones as per these pictures

How shot do they look? I have never seen this type of bearings. Some of the "teeth" holding them look crooked and I suspect them of being culprit of rubbing.


texts: Will a 9 speed crank work with 10 speed groupset?

texts: Will this SLX 9 speed crank work with newer 10 speed groupsets? It looks to me that 9 and 10 speed cranks are the same. Or am I missing something? Are the spaces between the rings different?


texts: Pressure gauge on my pump stuck at one value, what is wrong?

texts:
I have a Specialized Switch Hitter I have used for several years on both Presta and Schrader valves. Recently, my wife tried to inflate her tubes (Schrader valve) and could not get the pump to function. When I tried on my Presta valves, I experienced the same odd behavior she did, namely:

The handle requires too much force to depress when the chuck is on the valve.
The inline gauge registers a constant zero.
The valve is letting air out. I can let air out of the tube easily by bleeding off pressure using the little release valve on the handle.
When the chuck is not engaged with a valve, I can pump normally. I can't keep my finger on the chuck to build up any pressure, but air is definitely coming out.

I managed to partially fix the problem by disassembling the head and reassembling it, but now the inline pressure gauge is stuck at 60 psi even if I put enough air into it to get a tire to 130 psi. Does anybody know what might cause this problem?


texts: My tyre has hollow knobs, is it normal/desirable/essential for maker to disclose?

texts:
I noticed my back tyre has hollow knobs and I can't remember ever seeing this before. Some of the knobs have turned out to be hollow inside. I know YGWYPF, my questions are:

Is it normal? I got no meaningful results with google.
Is it desirable on a budget (even cheapskate really) tyre? It wouldn't
surprise me on a £££ model, but in this case my guess would be that
it would not meet the balance between extra cost of manufacturing
complexities vs the savings on raw materials.
Shouldn't the label say the knobs are hollow? My loose thoughts
would be that this has a bearing on a user's ability to assess
things like performance and remaining life? Even if it's the
subconscious visual assessment of these? I bought this in the UK but it's a global brand (and so is probably the model).

I'm aware many on here would argue this tyre is way overdue for replacement, this is not what the question is.

Edit: Clarification in response to some early comments.

I can't tell for sure if this is a manufacturing defect, it might be, but I think this is part of my question really.
The holes do not seem to go through the casing to the tube inside. The best way I can describe it is that it seems like they are hollow blocks/knobs glued onto a slick tyre. It also seems that the hollow space inside the hole is bigger that the opening that has been created.
I estimate I've ridden 100 to 1000 km on this tyre, 95% tarmac (from dry to heavy rain), 5% well compacted gravel path, very little harsh braking. Estimates are very rough because I don't use any tracking and my cycling comes in irregular spells of commuting.
They do indeed seem irregular. To me, this could equally indicate "unintended error in manufacturing" or "intended by design but poorly executed". The photos are a decent indication of the number and spread/distribution around the whole tyre. I'm fairly sure I didn't ride over enough broken glass (or similar) for that to be the main cause.


texts:
I was inspecting my carbon fork dropouts and I noticed the deformation of the edge on the outer side of the right dropout that makes me unhappy. I don't know what is the reason of this issue. Here are the photos:

Maybe the diameter of the nut is too little and the pressure is higher than on other three surfaces?
How to eliminate the further growth of this issue?


texts: Torque for Shimano Alfine 8/11 Speed Internally Geared Hub Axle Nuts?

texts:
I Googled for this, but couldn't find the proper torque (in Newton-meters) for Shimano Alfine 8- and 11-speed IGH axle nuts. I'm putting the hub back on the bike after removing the rear wheel.

I'm no techie, but I read that an IGH must be tightened to the correct torque, neither too tight (risk of damaging the IGH) nor too loose (speeds won't change correctly).

What is the correct torque for these nuts?


texts: Installing mechanical group set on "electronic only" frame

texts:
I've been upgrading my Cannondale CAAD3 road bike from 2005 step-by-step over the years as things get worn out. Now its time to upgrade the frame.

I have an eye on a Cannondale SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod frame but if I understand correctly this frame is designed for electronic groupsets only.

Would it be possible to non-intrusively install a mechanical set on this frame? (that is, without drilling anything, for example, by just using tape externally or some other pieces, might not look that good though).

At some point I will get an electronic groupset (I'll need to replace that in the next year/2 years anyways), but I don't want to do it now, yet I need to replace my frame.


texts: Brake squeal on caliper brakes despite usual solutions

texts:
Caliper brakes, front ones started squealing. Tried the following:

Cleaned rim with rubbing alcohol and a cloth.
Tightened all bolts.
Replaced brake pads with new ones.
Adjusted to ensure alignment is right.
Toe-ing in the brakes just made the squeal worse.

My rear brakes have no problem, even though I've replaced them myself, so my setup shouldn't be that bad. The only remaining thing I can think of is the front wheel has a very slight wobble, presumably my next step would be to try and true the wheel a touch. Just wanted to get some expert opinions before I spend more time on this, as all the usual solutions have failed.
Thanks!


texts: Mountain bike tyre at road bike pressure

texts:
Summary: A tyre that is 2.00 inches, or more, in thickness, that is designed to have a maximum allowed pressure or 7 or 8 bars, or 100-120 PSI -> does such a thing exist?
.............................................................................................
I've been obsessed for years about combining road bikes and mountain bikes into a single ideal bicycle.
I know about the options that already exist as compromises between road bikes and mountain bikes: hybrid bicycles (flat bar bicycles with tyres of intermediate thickness) and gravel bikes (road bikes that can go offroad as long as the terrain is not too technical).
But none of those options are good enough for me. I have imagined my own solutions.
It would take too much time to write all the details of the design that I have thought about here right now. I might write the entire design on this forum, but not right at this moment. For the time being there is one particular component that I think is the most crucial that I wish to ask about: tyres.
My design is not about compromise but about changing between "modes": a mtb mode and a road mode. The important detail is that I want a bicycle that is very good in those modes, not a compromise. So as an MTB I want to be a very good MTB. There's a lot of properties and components that affect the quality of a mountain bike, but for now, I'm focusing on tyres, so the more versatile the MTB the thicker the tyres are.
A thicker tyre is also slower on the road, especially if run at the low pressure that off-road-ing demands. So to create this swiss-knife of a bicycle, I have thought about this: a 2.00 or 2.20 or 2.30 inch tyre that I would use at 7-8 bars (100-120 PSI) on the road and 1-2 bars in the forest (15-30 psi). Good idea in theory, but does such a tyre even EXIST? That is my question.
Alternative related questions:
Can a MTB tyre be modified to resist 7-8 bars of pressure?
Can a tyre less than 2.00 inches (such as a gravel bike tyre for example) be made o be puncture resistant and not slide of the rim at small presure of 1-2 bars?


texts: Orienting Shimano Cup and Cone square-taper bottom bracket spindle

texts: I was servicing my Shimano adjustable bottom bracket and forgot which way the spindle was originally oriented.  Without measuring in detail, how do I correctly orient the spindle (so that the correct side is on the drive side)?


texts: How can I prevent cars from passing me too closely?

texts:
Recently, a driver buzzed by me, leaving just a couple of inches between my handlebars and his car. It was very scary.

In general, how can I prevent cars from passing me too closely?

Please cite sources.


texts:
I recently got a new wheelset Reynolds Solitude from a friend. He bought a new bike and it came with these wheels so he sold them as take-offs. They have internal spokes.
I have one problem with them not sure if it is related to the wheel set being new.

Spokes on my rear wheel, non drive side (laced radially) keep losing tension after ride. First time I had 7 spokes loose after 45 miles ride, I didn't feel any problem with the wheel as I was able to ride home. Took it to LBS they have trued the wheel and after that I got them loose again.

I can not afford to go to LBS any time I have problem with my wheels so I am taking different approach. I would like to learn how to do it on my own so I bought ParkTool TM-1 for that purpose and a truing stand.

Now I have a question : What is the process for fixing this particular problem, retensioning the radial side and truing the wheel? If anybody can point out things that I should do/don't do in order not to destroy the wheel?


texts:
I am looking for a bag to attach to my road bike that I can attach quickly without having a rack on my bike.

I saw one a few weeks ago (on someones bike) that attached to the seat post and extended backwards.  It mounted on the seat post with a screw-on clamp but the bag (and 95% of the weight associated with the bag) could be removed via a clip.

I don't need anything very large.  The bag I saw was just big enough for a t-shirt or your lunch.

I am interested in finding the bag described above or another bag.  Here are my requirements:

Does not require a rack as removing/adding a rack whenever I want to use my bike is too much of a pain in the ass
Big enough to hold a reasonable sized lunch (ie: t-shirt to sweatshirt sized).
Easy and fast to add/remove from bike (no tools)
Compatible with down tube shifters
Aerodynamic as possible


texts:
I own a Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick 700x23 and a Conti GP4000S 700x25.

What do you guys think about:

mounting different tires on a bike?
which tire should go where? The Vittoria has around 200 miles on it and Conti has less than a 100.


texts: What are some key road flat pedal bicycle adjustments that affect neck strain?

texts:
Over time I grew to understand that different adjustments (saddle, handlebars, pedals, stem) affect different parts of the body. Often multiple at ones and often indirectly - by altering something else directly and then for example putting more strain on other parts of body indirectly because of that. My girlfriend recently started riding a road type bike (gravel) with flat pedals. Her neck hurts. I think my neck hurt when I became a roadie as well. But that went away after a few months. I'm not sure if I accidentally fixed my position then or if my neck muscles/whatever is there adapted.
I have tried changing her handlebar tilt upwards, and ever so slightly (1.5mm) moved the saddle to the front. I'm pretty sure there is nothing extreme about her position or the bike setting. The frame size is definitely good. I have also suggested that she moves her body around on the bike: stand from time to time, move the neck every few minutes, change arm position on the handlebars.
Does anyone have a good advice which parts of the bike can fiddled with to experiment and try to fix the neck pain?


texts: So I found a small thorn in my tire. It did make a hole in my tube so I replaced it after trying many solutions. My question: I'm wondering if because there is a hole in the tire but not the tube, why won't my tire fill with air?


texts:
New to Bikes so hoping this question is OK.

My partner was recently given an old Raleigh bike for free and has since taken it to get the cables and tyres replaced, but as it's quite small (for teens?) she plans to trade / swap / sell it for something more her size.

I know nothing about bikes whatsoever, but apparently the people in the repair shop said it's quite unique. Can anyone tell me anything else about it? Era / 'model' / history or the like?


texts: I have 27 inch wheels and need new inner tubes what size can I use

texts: I have 27 x 1 1/4 inch tires on my bike and need to buy new tubes. Can I use 700c or just 27 inch?


texts: Freewheel engaging sporadically when turned backwards at low speed

texts:
I noticed that when going at low speed without pedalling the freewheel sometimes seems to engage anyway and pulling the chain until there is enough tension ( as the rear derailleur contracts due to the chain being pulled ) to overcome it and to let the wheel spin free again.
I also noticed this effect by spinning the cassette by hand with the wheel removed from the bicycle. When spinning it there are points in which it gets stuck and wont let go until I either try to turn it with enough force or I spin it to the opposite direction slightly and then continue. This might happen a couple times per rotation.
I have tried looking for similar problems online but havent been able to find anything, maybe because I'm not sure what to look for as I'm new to biking and I'm trying to learn a bit by repairing this kind of problem my self. I thought of dismounting the cassette and cleaning everything up in case that somehow solves the problem but I wanted to ask first to see if there is any specific solution.
The bicycle is almost new, only having a month or two, so I wouldn't think it has anything to do with wear. Its a Talon 29 1 in case it's of any help.


texts:
there, I just got a new motobecane bike off of bikesdirect and it comes with this disc brake

SHIMANO DISC-BRAKE SET ULTEGRA, ST-R8000, BR-R8000 FOR 25MM MNT, RESIN PAD
SHIMANO KSMMAR160DDA MOUNT FOR ROAD DISC BRAKE MOUNT
SHIMANO ROTOR FOR DISC-BRAKE, SM-RT76, 160MM, 6-BOLT TYPE

I put the bike together and when I spin the wheels, the brake pads are certainly rubbing constantly the rotor.

and here's a link to a video I made about the problem.

I have tried squeezing the brake while re-tightening the bosses on the caliper (at least that's what I think it's called), the thing that's actually attached to the bike frame.

I notice also that there is a piece of metal between the brake pads, it's very thin and is folded like a butterfly, should this piece of metal be removed?

What else would you try to fix this?


texts: What are the differences between new Nexus 7 speed hub (SG-C3001-7), versus old (SG-C3000-7)?

texts: From the outside shells seems to be different, but are there more important changes inside that influence durability or efficiency?


texts: Shimano RD TX55 Tourney TX 6/7 Speed Compatibility

texts:
I currently have a 7 speed bicycle, and recently changed my rear derailleur to a Shimano RD TX55 Tourney TX for a 6/7 speed compatibility. My shifter is Shimano Rapidfire for 7-speed.

The current problem that I have is that when I shift into the 6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, and the 1st sprocket it becomes unstable. The RD is not properly aligned with the gears. The 7th sprocket does not have any problems. The 2nd sprocket on the other hand, I have to shift the shifter from 2 then change it to 3 only then it becomes stable in the 2nd sprocket.

Upon observation, I suspect that the RD is more towards for a 6-speed sprocket due to their alignment on the sprockets.

Is this true or is there some way to adjust the RD to fit the 7-speed sprocket?

Additional information:
1. The cable is tight, not slacking.
2. Barrel adjuster is 0, at its initial position.


texts: Do you know what size my handlebar has? I want to buy a new pair of Tektro brake levers and I do not know what steps to take about it


texts: Downtube shifters won't stay in low gear on rear derailleur

texts:
I've finished a bike restoration today and it's my first time using downtube shifters. They work and will span the full range of gears but won't stay in the big cog on the back for long, the shifter itself gets pulled down by the cable tension, I've tried loosening the cable but I'm just not sure how to set it up. Which gear should the bike be in, what position should the shifter be in and how tight do I pull the cable? I've tried tightening the actual shifter against the frame, that didn't help. It was a little D ring that pulls out, it's pretty stubborn so I grabbed it with pliers and managed to bend it off, ghetto repaired for now. I'm assuming it's cable tension.

The H and L screws are ok, I'll try disassembling it if I can find a diagram for my shifter.


texts:
What's the cone spanner size for cone nut on Shimano WH-R550 Front wheel ?
Is it 17mm or 18mm ?
I tried with 16, it seems, need more, 1 or 2mm bigger.

Thanks


texts:
My crankset is driving me nuts, because of creaking noises when pedaling.

I have fixed the issue twice already, by removing the bottom bracket (FWIW, it's a 68x115mm square, pictured below, and my frame is aluminium), cleaning everything up and installing it back, with some fresh lithium grease. However, the creaks come back soon, like after a week or two (about 30km ride per day), or after some heavy rain.

I had been tightening the strongest I could, but using a simple 24mm wrench, with the bracket tool ripping off again and again... Note that every time, the subsequent disassembly was very easy. I guess I wasn't tightening strong enough. As I have to fix it again (*cries softly*), I just bought a 300mm torque wrench, and will tighten to 40~50 Nm.

Long story short, am I right assuming I wasn't tightening strong enough?

Update: So, I've just spent 3 hours cleaning (this time very, very thoroughly) and reassembling everything. About the torque, 50 Nm is not as strong as I thought, and I think I fastened strong enough the previous times. When I rode the bike afterwards, there were the exact same creaks are before (*cries softly*). But after like 1~2km, they disappared, and no noise for the rest of the ride (about 10km, under heavy rain). In fact, that's also what happened the previous times…

But after I have reinstalled the crankset, I turned the pedals by hand very fast, with the chain removed. Looking at the screw head of the left arm, I noticed it was very, very slightly waving. Which indicates the axle is slightly misaligned or  bent.

Thus, I begin to suspect the culprit for the creaks is the bottom bracket itself. Do you think my assumption is right?

Update 2: So, today, the annoying creaks are back, exactly as before (*crying intensifies*). Maybe it's the BB itself, but I'm also suspecting the chainwheel aluminium bolts (even if I've greased them), and the pedals (magnesium platforms, which seem to easily propagate noise). I'll have to proceed by elimination… Also, note that after a sudden rain (again…), the bike got very wet and apparently it makes the creaks to disappear.

Update 3: After some trial and error, found it! It was the pedals, as simple as that… Some AliExpress titanium pedals, great at first glance, but that degraded fast, and with many design errors (here for instance, I cannot disassemble them because there is not enough room for the head of the socket wrench). Thankfully, AliExpress already had reimbursed me because of conception errors of this product. It's a shame because they were lightweight and there isn't much alternative, but the creaking noises are a huge no-no for me. Basically I just eradicated 95% creaking noises of the bike :)


texts:
I am thinking of replacing my Shimano Deore Bottom Bracket SM BB52 with a Driveline X Type instead.I want to know whether it is compatible to do so before I proceed.
Thanks,
Louis.


texts: Why would anyone use DOT fluid and vacuum-based brakes?

texts:
Mineral oil is much less toxic than DOT, does not absorb water, has higher boiling point.

Bleeding Shimano brakes is almost as easy as unscrewing the caliper bolt and pouring oil into the lever system. On the other hand, for Avid-s one needs to observe strict vacuum.

Why would so many companies bother with an American-specific oil and vacuum-reliant system?

Mineral Oil
Shimano
Magura
Tektro
Gatorbrake

DOT
Hayes
Avid
Formula
Hope


texts: Summer Reading Recommendation: Bike Touring (Canada)

texts:
Summer is here so I was hoping to get some summer reading on the go (for when I am not riding my bike).

Sometime in the future (next summer hopefully) I would like to do a cross-Canada bike tour.  I was wondering if anyone had read any good books on bike touring (bonus points for across or in Canada).

The book could be in story form or instructional.  Bonus points for funny storys and specifi Canadian  route information.

(Blogs are also welcome but priority is given to books, hence the title "summer reading".  It is hard to read a blog post in the park on a sunny day.)


texts: Clicking sound on each rotation of the pedals only when riding

texts:
Let me prefix this by saying that I don't know much about bikes. Especially from the terminology perspective.

When riding, I can hear a relatively quiet click when I push down on the pedals. It happens when either of the pedals are in the upwards position, even when I try to put on continuous pressure during the whole rotation. I also feel a slight vibration when it clicks.

It seems to me that the sound is coming either from the pedals or from the part where they're attached but since I can't reproduce the issue when I turn the bike upside down, I can't pinpoint the source.

This started happening a couple of weeks ago. In the mean time I took the bike in for regular maintenance and it seemed to fix the issue but it came back the next day, or the day after.

What can I do to diagnose this issue? Should I just take it back to the repair shop, or is this something I can fix myself?

The bike is Ghost Kato 2.9 if that matters.