texts: Inner tube popped on back side of the valve - why?

texts:
One hour after my first 20-minute ride with new inner tube it exploded with "ps-BAH!" sound. Also, as you can see on the photo, two bulges appeared near the hole. The tire (25mm) allows up to 8 bar (116 psi) , I inflated it to around 7.5 (108 psi). Do you think it's simply a production defect of the tube?

EDIT: it's not a long cut on the photo, it's a seam. See full res image


texts: Rear rack or similar storage options for child's bike (16" wheels)

texts:
My 4 year old has taken to riding with abandon, and we're starting to get into summer, where we hope to do some trails together.  I have a rear wheel bike rack which is sufficient for storage of what we might need to take with us, but he's asked me if I can get him a similar rack on his bike.

He has a 16" wheel diameter Schwinn, a bike like you'd find at Target or Walmart but reasonably solid.  Is it a) possible and b) a good idea to put a bike rack on such a small bike?  Do "one size fits all" or "standard" racks fit safely on a small bike?  I tend to think a basket is a less good idea (as it's bigger and affects balance more), but I'm open to that if it's the appropriate solution (certainly was what I had as a child). He's very comfortable riding on flat or moderately even surfaces (grass, for example, is fine, as long as it's not too long), and falls maybe once a mile, never seriously.

He'd likely be attaching a couple of small toys (cars a bit bigger than a matchbox car, but not gigantic) to it, plus I'd probably have him carry one useful thing, but mostly I'm not too concerned about functionality - largely, he wants it because Daddy has it, and I'm okay with that (as long as it's not too expensive).

I'm probably not going to mod something metal, but I'd be open to something plastic-based (I had thought about making something small out of PVC piping, but I'm not sure if that's a great idea).  I've also thought about just attaching a bungee-type cord to the bike and letting him use that, though again the idea here is mostly that he wants to have something like Daddy.


texts: How much does a typical cardboard bike box weigh?

texts:
Exactly as per the title. This is surprisingly hard for me to google.

I found one estimate of about 10 pounds, and the tech at my LBS "guesses" that a standard 30 x 8 x 53 box weighs 2 pounds. For long distance shipping, that much of weight difference can save a lot.


texts: How do you wrap a bicycle frame with used inner tubes?

texts:
What is the best way to wrap a frame with bicycle inner tubes?
The bike is an aluminium framed MTB with suspension (rather than a roadie-courier bike that usually gets subjected to such treatment).
Can you use puncture repair glue or does it have to be 'gaffer tape'?
Any tips will be most appreciated on how to do this effectively.
Edit:
As for the why question: there are various reasons why people would want to do this - to protect the bike from railings being one, to make it less attractive to thieves is my concern, making it look 'individual' is another reason to do it.
I was really hoping that someone here has had a go and might want to share what they learned from doing so.


texts: If I currently have 700x23/25C tires on my bike, will 700x35C winter tires fit?

texts:
I understand that the first number is the tire diameter, so on that part I know it will fit, and that the second number is the tire width and that's my main concern.

I want to put winter tires on my bike and all the studded winter tires that I find are 35C. Will they fit on my wheels if I currently use 23C and 25C?


texts:
Been thinking about upgrading my drive train, however, I'm not sure if I've fully understood the compatibility part and wanted to get some more clarifications. Currently have an Advent X (10spd) and my hub is a Shimano FH-TX505 with HG freehub. My questions that I had are:

Can a 12spd (11t or higher) fit on a HG freehub? On the Shimano website, it say 8-10spd, 11spd mtb. However, some cassettes such as the Garbaruk 12-Speed HG Cassette, state they work with the HG hub?

Can you change the freehub? Again, the wheels I have use the FH-TX505 hub. I know there's a specific compatibility between which hubs can actually be converted but I couldn't find much info on this specific one. My guess is no but I'm really not too sure. Oh, the hub is also (not too sure) QR 10x135, not sure if that matters. Side note: I mainly care about this because I was hoping to get a speed lower than 11t (10 or even 9) as I have been toping out a lot. I guess upgrading from 30t to 32t chainring might be another option...

If Q2 is no, then is there anyway for me to get a wheel set with XD or micro spline freehub? I've been looking around for wheel sets for QR 10x135 but the ones I've seen all use HG.

Thanks!


texts: I have a 29" mountain bike I'm going to put a motor on. I'm going to replace the back wheel with a 26" and my question is about the gears. I need two of them in the same side to freewheel independently one for the motor and one for me to pedal. and I can't find anything online telling me which kind of hub I should use. Can I just use a standard single gear freewheel hub and chuck two freewheel cogs on? I don't want to buy them then be stuck waiting a month for a new hub.


texts:
I have Exage 300 lx crank 48,38,28 Crankset. It is also Biopace. I would like to replace it since it is worn out. What current model from Shimano is a suitable replacement?

regards


texts: What can I do to pedals to help kids or smaller riders use the bike

texts:
We recently bought a recumbent tricycle second-hand for our special needs daughter (catrike pocket). The bikes pedals are a little bit out of reach for her (~4 inches). These bikes are expesive and we purchased it knowing that it did not fit her currently but that she would grow into it.
We can sit her a little further forward with some foam in the seat but the pedals at their farthest in rotation are too far. The pedals are also adjustable but not short enough still.
It was suggested that I could use some wood blocks attached to the pedals but that idea raises more questions i.e. I should put blocks on both sides of the pedals in case she loses grip and can find them again..
Are there any other DIY suggestions on how I can make the pedals accessible to a rider whos legs are just no long enough yet.


texts: What thread does the b-screw on a shimano rd-6400/6401 have?

texts:
What thread does the b-screw on a shimano rd-6401 have?
I need to recut the thread but am not entirely sure if it's an M4 fine pitch or something else.


texts: Can I somehow attach a bashguard on top of largest chainring?

texts:
I have a 1x system with an ordinary 104BCD chainring and I bought a bashguard foolishly thinking it goes on top of that. Turns out a bashguard typically replaces the largest cog and I've got only one.

Is there any way to place the bashguard on top of the chainring? I have longer chainring bolts, but when I place the bashguard directly on top of the cog, there isn't enough clearance for the chain.


texts: will increasing cadence ability hurt my climbing strength?

texts:
I tend to spin rather slow when I am riding.  50rpm is a comfortable rate for me to spin for as long as I want to ride.  90rpm seems to be the rate at which I expend maximum power... I can't spin this longer than about 2 1/2 minutes on a -2% (downhill) grade, but going uphill I can sprint at least 15 seconds on a +12% grade starting at 90rpm (corresponding to close to 30mph), before I start to slow down appreciably, and correspondingly I have found that I perform much better on hills due to the lower cadences required.

Now my concern is higher cadences are generally recommended (I especially see this when people are asking about higher gear ratios to go faster), and I have been told that 50rpm is way too low for a cruising cadence.  But if I do something like interval training to increase my cadence I am concerned that this will affect my climbing strength.  Is this something I should worry about, or is there a specific approach that can result in me being able to tolerate higher cadences, without losing power at the low end?


texts: Exercises to Counter act muscluar imbalances

texts: I have overdeveloped quads, which has affected my knees, what are some exercises that will help counteract this imbalance?


texts: Can I use a SRAM PC850 chain on a 6-speed bike?

texts:
I want to buy a chain for a 6-speed bike. I know SRAM chains have the special link, meaning that no tools are needed. I've seen a very good deal on the SRAM PC850 chain, but their website lists this as an 8-speed chain (rather than 6/7/8).

Does anyone know if this chain is suitable for a 6-speed bike? Would I be able to remove "spare" links with a bog-standard chain tool?

Thanks!


texts: How can I inflate a tire to the correct pressure?

texts:
I have a 700 x 38c tire with a Schrader valve I just did a puncture repair on. The recommended pressure for the tire is 75-100 psi (520-690 kPa). I would normally just inflate the tire until it felt about right, but since I had recently purchased a digital tire pressure gauge for my car I decided to use that.

I pumped it up to what I thought was about the correct pressure then checked it using the gauge and it was only at 25 psi (170 kPa). I continued inflating the tire with my hand pump until it became difficult to continue adding more air and it was still at only 37 psi (250 kPa).

I just don't see how it would be possible to inflate it to anywhere near the correct pressure.

According to the label, the gauge is also suitable for bicycles and has a range up to 100 psi (690 kPa).


texts: Does pedaling while standing damage my knees even if I don't feel pain?

texts:
I am in my mid forties and ride a seven speed cruiser or maybe mountain bike. I enjoy pedaling while standing, and I don't really care about speed or efficiency. When there is even the slightest uphill grade and I stand. I get in a high gear and enjoy slowly swaying back and forth and using my arms. I've never really measured my cadence, but I'm sure it is sub 60.

I am putting some longer rides in reasonably hilly country with smooth roads. My knees don't ache afterward. Sometimes my shoulders ache a bit after the ride but doesn't feel damaging. I have been doing hills/grades in top gear as my own "check off the list" challenge.

If proper form (for standing at least) and in good shape, am I abusing my body/knees?  Up to now they feel great, but I would hate to have "reality" crashing upon my knees someday.


texts: Can any bike crankset be exchanged for another?

texts: I have a Specialized HardRock from the '90s.  It's seen better days, but I got it for cheap.  I had a bike shop look it over, but for some reason the guys missed the rounded off teeth on the front gears.  Whenever I ride it, the chain slips every few rotations.  I'd like to get a new crankset, but i'm not quite sure what will work and what won't.  Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Painful Feet: Might be related to pedal-foot positioning

texts:
Sometimes when I set out on a ride I will get the absolute worst foot pain. It is like a cramp in my arches on both feet.

I am wondering where exactly the center of the pedal should fall in relation to my foot.


texts: How can I measure a saddle to buy something similar?

texts: I got on quite well with the stock saddle on my tourer, until recently.  That's not surprising as the plastic has broken.  The bike manufacturer isn't great for spares, and I'm sure I could do better, but how can I get something similar?  Try-before-you-buy from a proper shop isn't currently the option it normally would be, so it looks like I'll have to order  something. Are there features I should be measuring on the old one?  Most manufacturers seem to list very little in the way of dimensions, favouring a description.  There's plenty of information out there about putting the new saddle in the same place, but nothing much about getting one similar to the old one.


texts: What kinds of kickstands are good for touring?

texts:
I am using a sturdy 2nd-hand-bought diamond-framed Crescent Sport bike which I like to use for random touring.

I have seen a cyclocrosser using the kickstand to spin the pedals while cleaning and lubricating the chain. I'd like to be able to do that.

I've seen a parent load a huge amount of groceries onto his touring bike, and want a kickstand that is stable enough to let me do that.

I have a middle-of-the-bike kickstand that doesn't let me do these things. What should I be looking for?

Resources

generally about kickstand here


texts: What should I look for when buying a used bicycle?

texts:
I'm moving to a city where I can ride a bicycle to the grocery store, coffee shop etc. I want to purchase a decent used bicycle. I'm leaning towards a bike that's in between a "10-speed" or road-bike and a mountain bike. What should I look for when choosing a particular bike?

I've never purchased a used bicycle. Other than classifieds (e.g., Craigslist), what types of places can I look? What other issues should I consider, such as size, visual appearance, leaking tires, etc.? How can I make sure it's not stolen?


texts: Wahoo KICKR 2018 and Shimano Sora 11-32t 9-speed compatibilty

texts:
At present, I own Specialized Allez e5 Sport which has the default Shimano Sora cassette (11-32t) and rear derailleur.

I'm planning to buy Wahoo KICKR (for long-term, given more bike(s) will come), so my doubt is that is my current bike even compatible with the trainer, given that Wahoo does provide the 1.8mm spacer.


texts: Is it really safer to ride in the road than on the sidewalk?

texts:
I am fairly new to riding, in a city where it is legal to ride in the road or on the sidewalk. In the areas where I need to ride, the roads are busy but the sidewalks are virtually deserted.

I keep hearing that it is safer to ride in the road, but is it really? Are there studies that show (or contradict) this?

It seems like the hazards of riding on the sidewalk are things that are under my control (don't zoom through crosswalks, watch out for cars coming in/out of driveways), while the hazards of riding in the road (people texting while driving, cars passing too close, road rage) I have to rely on other people being careful.

So it seems to me that I am better off riding on the sidewalk where my safety is in my own hands than in the road where my safety is in the hands of all of the drivers around me. But I am new, so I acknowledge there may be other aspects of this that I haven't thought about... so is it really still better for me to ride in the road, and if so, why?

Edit to add: This is a small city in the midwerstern United States. The sidewalks I am talking about are on stretches of road where it's mostly businesses with large parking lots, so there won't be any kids playing or anyone backing out into the road (but still will be people turning from the driveway to the road or the road to the driveway). With the exception of right by a bus stop, you almost never see pedestrians on the sidewalks, it mostly seems to be bicyclists. As an alternative to riding on the sidewalk of this road, I could take a more indirect/winding path through some neighborhoods where it wouldn't feel quite as scary riding in the road and ride in the road there - but is that really any safer than riding on the sidewalk near the busier roads?


texts:
I've had this for about a year.  The former owner said he thought it's German (possibly former DDR).  Looks 1950s era to me, but hard to say.  Only identifier is the brand 'Elite'.  I can post more pics if anyone thinks they could ID it.

I can find no information about this marque, other than that there was a former East German bicycle concern called Elite-Diamant-Werke AG.  However, all their bikes were branded 'Diamant' and I can find no evidence that they branded any 'Elite'.

Any insight appreciated.

Here are a couple more photos:

The bottom bracket has a grease nipple, a practice which I believe ended in the early 1960s.  The bearing itself is marked 'BSA' (Birmingham Small Arms), but is possibly not original.


texts:
I recently replaced my front tire. About 3 days post replacement I noticed that the pressure in that tire was at about 50psi (Its a road bike - I keep it around 120).
I pumped it up and hoped for the best for my ride home.

I didn't have time to check for the leak that day so I left until the next day.
Next day the pressure was fine.

about 5 days later it again dropped down to around 50 and I pumped it up.

Now its been about 2 weeks and the pressure is holding as well as it usually does.

Whats going on here?


texts: 2003 Giant Rainier MTB Leaking Shock Fluid?

texts:
I have a 2003 Giant Rainier as shown here: https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=38863

that appears to be leaking a little bit of fluid from one of its front shocks.  I think it has only leaked a few milliliters.

What would be the best & cheapest way to fix that?

Thank you!


texts: Vittoria Corsa 25 mm clincher on 14 mm rims

texts:
Currently I have 23 mm Continental tyres on my rims with 14 mm inner width.
I plan to buy Vittoria Corsa 25 mm clincher tyres.
Concerning clearance it should work out fine.
Is it safe and does it make sense to go for the 25 mm model with these rims or should I rather go for the 23 mm model?


texts:
Can I change a single chain ring to a double?

I have an old steel frame with a narrow bottom bracket shell 66mm and a single 50 tooth chain ring. I would like to add a 36/40 inner and want to know what is needed and how to go about this.

Many thanks


texts: 1972 Schwinn 10 speed missing chain need to know how many links

texts: I just bought a vintage Schwinn Suburban 10 speed bicycle but the chain was missing from the bike. I need to know how many links is generally on this bike. I bought a bike chain that says for 5/6/7/8 speed bike chain. for bikes with 5-8 rear cogs. this bike being a 10 speed has 5 rear cogs and 2 front gears. I counted the links and it has 111 total links and 1 connecting link. I need to know if I need to shorten this chain before installing onto bike, or will it fit just as it is?


texts:
So I'm trying to find out if Shimano Metrea ST-U5060-R would be compatible with any Shimano 11 rear derailleur?

Also, would it also be compatible with the T4700 Tiagra derailleur since it seems to be using a 11 gear pull ratio (even though it's a 10 speed derailleur).

Or do you really need to stick with the Shimano Metrea derailleur in order to use that shifter?

Same question with the front derailleur.


texts: Right hook accident scenario: who is at fault?

texts:
I just got into a collision with a biker while driving my car. I have read a lot about these types of accidents, but none quite cover the circumstances that were present in my case and I’m wondering who is at fault.

I was stopped at a red light in a line of cars. I was probably the 5th car in a line of 8. The intersection was at the bottom of a hill on a one-lane road with a bike lane on the right side. I had my turn signal on at the red light and when it turned green and I got to the intersection I turned right. As I began my turn, I collided with a biker who was going much faster than me but approaching from behind, and was trying to go straight through the intersection.

The short version is that I was trying to turn right in a line of cars when the biker who was behind me struck the side of my car as I was beginning my turn.

Luckily the biker wasn’t hurt because I wasn’t moving very fast and he just clipped the edge of my car instead of actually hitting the side. He just had a few scrapes, thank God.

I don’t know what to think in this situation because I was in the rightmost lane with my turn signal on, in front of the biker but, on the other hand, it makes sense that he wouldn’t be able to see my blinker very well because of the line of cars and I could have seen him if I looked in my side mirror.

EDIT:  I can't believe this has gotten so many responses.  Thank you all for your thoughts.  A few people have been asking about where this happened.  It happened in California, USA.  A lot of people here are saying that they are thankful that things didn't turn out so bad, at least not nearly as bad as they could have.  I completely agree.  When I was helping the biker up, he said "That's the last time I come flying down that hill" and I responded with, "That's the last time I turn without checking my side mirrors".  So hopefully we, and anyone else reading this, can at least be thankful that it was a learning experience and that we can all be safer in the future.

One more thing.  Because the light had recently turned from red to green and I was in a line of cars, there seemingly was no way for the biker to safely go behind me and pass on my left, as there were a few other cars behind me.

Also, thank you Rider_X for the awesome and comprehensive response.  I come from an area where there are no bike lanes so I didn't realize that you are supposed to move into the bike lane before turning.


texts:
I'm moving from the UK to Australia later this year, and shipping most of my stuff, including two bicycles (simply hybrid bikes, nothing fancy).

Australia has strict biosecurity rules about what you can bring into the country, including cleaning requirements for things like bikes. They want to avoid you bringing in any foreign seeds or bugs that could cause problems.

I have a cheap power washer that would certainly do a good job of cleaning the bikes, but I'm concerned that it could blast water into bearings and whatnot, potentially causing issues.

What do you recommend?


texts: Importance of "H.E." rim designation on MTB to tire fitment?

texts: I'd like to convert an MTB with 26X1.95 knobbies to road use for the wife but wonder if the present tire designation, specifying H.E. rims means anything once proper size tires are found. Many thanks!


texts: Sources of vibration at high speed in and around rear wheel

texts:
I’m experiencing vibration somewhere in the rear half of the bicycle when descending at high speed (say more than 30 mph), and I haven’t been able to pinpoint the cause. Everything looks fine, everything I’ve tried wiggling seems solid, and nothing seems to be getting hot except the brakes and rim.

I’d like help figuring what, if anything is wrong.

I could try to describe my observations in more detail, though I hesitate to do so for two reasons. First, they are all fuzzy and potentially misleading, since it’s hard to examine the bicycle while it’s moving 30-40 mph, and it makes me nervous so I slow down and the vibration stops. Second, it seemed like it could be useful to have a checklist of things to look into when experiencing such vibration, that isn’t limited to my particular problem. (If it’s more appropriate for this community, I’ll edit this question to add my observations.)


texts: Do I really need two bikes - one for road cycling and one for daily use?

texts:
I am a complete newbie into this road cycling hobby thing -  have done about four to five one-day trips and one two-day trips for now so I am getting more into it.

The problem is I don't want to use it for my everyday use,  like cycling to work and the stuff since it is an expensive bike.  Most of the time I would just walk but now I live even further away from where I work I need to cycle (public transport is out of question).

Is it ethical to have two bikes? Is it common among road cyclists?


texts: Muscles sore and ridicously stiff after riding

texts:
After buying my first bike I've probably not missed a single day without sitting on the bike.

I've been probably riding 10km per day after being somewhat out of shape.

Over the days I've noticed that I lose my breath faster and faster, and my muscles seem to stiff up.

This does not hurt or feel like "postworkout"-soreness, but more like passive cramping.

That is probably the best way to describe my problem.
I'll probably see a doc anyways but I want some more input on that


texts:
I have found a PUROL metal polish lying on one of my shelves and I was wondering if you can in any way damage a carbon bicycle frame by using this polish on it. The only thing stated on the tube is that, apart from metals, it can also be used on hard plastics, but is not suitable for car polishing. The reason I ask this (despite the paste saying its clearly for metals), is because I think the polish does not even get to the carbon frame - it stops at the level of the paint job on top.
If that is so, I can simply use this to give the paint a bit of a shine and use the polish up.
Thanks for the answers!


texts: What hanger is compatible with Shimano Claris RD R200?

texts:
Trying to find a rear derailleur hanger that works with the Shimano Claris R2000 8 speed, on my REI Co-op bike. Have done  lots of searching on Shimano's site and Amazon and Google. What am I missing? I think Shimano doesn't have branded/proprietary  hangers; if that's the case, how can I find another brand of hanger that I know will fit?

If helpful, the bike specs here: https://www.rei.com/product/106309/co-op-cycles-ard-11w-womens-bike.


texts: Can I replace my Shimano RX 100 with a Campagnolo group?

texts: I just purchased a Concorde Mistral with Columbus Gara tubing and would like to transfer my Campagnolo group from an SLX frame that is too big. The Concorde frame has a front derailleur mounting bracket on the seat tube just like the SLX frame I already have. I understand I would be losing the indexed feature the Shimano has, but would it be possible?


texts: When I increase my riding routine I end up getting bad cramps in both my calves and also my thighs and hamstrings.  Does anyone have any tips to reduce cramps when your riding gets more serious.


texts: Chips in carbon frame - how worried should I be?

texts:
I am looking for a second hand road bike. This is to be my first mid-range bike, and my first introduction to carbon frames. I have done a bit of research, and am aware of the potential risks of damaged carbon frames.
However, knowing about the risks and knowing how to spot a more than superficially damaged frame are two different things.
Here are three pictures of the visible damage: scratches on the front wheel, and chips in the paint. Based on these pictures, how much of a hazard would you judge this to be?


texts: Should I avoid hard-packed crusher dust trails with my hybrid?

texts:
I ride a  Trek FX 7.2, with 35mm Bontrager hard-case lite hybrid tires. I'm still fairly new and inexperienced with cycling, and I've driven  exclusively on roads so far. I'm looking to start increasing my distance and speed, with the goal being to be able to perform a 50K ride  by the end of summer (my longest ride so far was 25k).

To this end, I've started looking for new routes to go cycling on. One route I've found that seems like a great choice is the Rum Runners Trail, which is part of a much larger trail system going across the entire province. Most of the trail is made up of hard-packed crusher dust, which I believe looks like this:

The website above says it's a great surface for hybrid bicycles like mine, but the product page for my tires makes me concerned this isn't the case. Specifically, there's this answer from a Trek employee at the bottom of the page:

  The H2 tires are going to be designed for pavement riding and not really for gravel riding

So essentially right now, I'm not really sure if I should be riding on this trail with my hybrid. I've considered just going on the trail and finding out first hand, but I'm still fairly new to cycling, so I'm worried about damaging the bike (or myself!) due to driving on terrain the bike isn't made for.

Is my bicycle a good choice for this hard-packed crusher dust trail?

The H2 aren't what the bike shipped with. I bought the H2 late last year, after the original tires got a flat.


texts: How do I tell if my cog needs replacing?

texts:
Two answers to this question gather that after 14335 km (8907 mi) of cycling with a single chain, the cog is at risk of being damaged.

I haven't noticed anything unusual apart from the chain being too long. How do I tell if my cog needs replacement?

My rear cog on a Rohloff Speedhub

Different angle, close-up


texts:
I have some lights and a cycle computer that attach using some sort of rubber or silicone bands (or O rings - don't know what they are called). I need some replacements, but I don't know what they are called!

Best I can find on (say) Amazon are O rings that look the same but seem to be only for plumbing - not long term daily use on a bicycle.

I need various sizes as I want to move stuff between bikes - which have differing tube/handle bar diameters.

The technically right name - or a recommended supplier - would be most welcome!


texts: How to deal with fog, condensing on the outside of glasses?

texts:
I had a particularly foggy commute both ways today.  I was having to wipe the glasses lenses every 10-20 seconds as traffic permitted to maintain some semblance of visibility.

I already wear a cap with a brim/peak/visor under my helmet, but the fog is light enough to flow under with air-flow - its not like rain that would fall more downward.

Short of "wipe lots" what can be done to keep fog from depositing on glasses?


texts: Can't figure out the origin of loud screeching noise

texts:
I've had my bike for over 1 year. Since the day I bought it it's had this problem where it makes a really loud screeching noise coming somewhere from the back. I didn't notice it at the store because it comes and goes. It started shortly after I bought it and I brought it back to the store and asked about it. They said it was caused by the paint on the rims and it would disappear with wear. It's been one year, the rims are somewhat worn, and it's as loud as ever. In fact the front rim makes less noise and is much less worn. The front rim also makes some noise but a lot less than the back. If anything the back noise seems to be getting worse.
I know someone who bought the same model and she's never had this problem.
It doesn't make much difference whether the bike is dirty or clean, although it happens more frequently if the bike is dirty, along with other creaking noises.
I've tried loosening the bolts on the back wheel, makes no difference.
It's not because of lack of oil, or excess. I found some oil had gotten into the back rim and I scrubbed it thoroughly with alcohol. The noise got even worse.
It's not the brakes because it doesn't make any difference whether they are new or worn out. Loosening or tightening the brakes makes no difference. I've tried with 2 different models (the first the same as the one on the front), no difference.
Tuned or untuned, makes no difference. I've cleaned it thoroughly, no difference.
Pedaling or not doesn't make any difference. This sound only happens when I brake, otherwise the bike works normally. The brakes work well, except for this issue.
Three things that make a difference:
The sound gets worse if I ride through puddles and the rims get wet. Gets better when they dry.
My weight. I weigh ~55kgs, it's a medium size bike so there shouldn't be a problem. Although, if I run alongside my bike and hit the brakes, no noise. At all. I tried the same thing but I pressed down on the seat with my hand when I braked. There was some noise, but not much.
Another thing that made some difference was flour. Yes, I put some flour on the back rim just try it. Reduces the noise a bit, but not much. I read that scrubbing it a bit with sand paper could help, I want to try that. Would dirt help? Possibly, but even though I go on a lot of dusty trail rides not much dirt gets on the rim.
Photos: https://imgur.com/a/AF05KHy

Can anyone help me figure out the problem? If all else fails I will just buy new rims.
EDIT: I think I have figured out what it is. I've followed this video:

and I've been able to eliminate the noise almost completely. I will try it again tomorrow when I have more time.


texts: Do I need to replace 10 speed chain if using a bigger cluster, also 10 speed?

texts:
Most similar questions are asking about using the same chain with a bigger cluster with more gears (10 speed chain vs 11 speed cluster).

My concern is being able to simply buy a higher gear ratio cassette and still keep the same chain?

I have Shimano Ultegra 10 speed system, but my cassette is an 11-24 cluster. I want to replace it with another 10 speed cassette but 12 to 32, with grannies for massive hill climbs.

Surely I don't need to replace the chain if the number of gears on the cassette is the same - ie: 10 speed?


texts: Why is cycling on a road so much faster than cycling on a cycle path?

texts:
I normally cycle on a cycle path and I struggle to go over 10Mph on my bike for any distance. My Daily commute took me 58 to 42 minutes depending on how much I push myself.

This morning and yesterday evening I decided I'd try to cycle on the road rather than the path. The distance is only 0.2 miles shorter by road but it only took me 34 minutes because I was travelling at 10 to 14 Mph most of the time sometimes faster on hills. I had to stop at more traffic lights but it still took a heck of a lot less time.

Any idea why this happens?

I ride a mountain bike with Semi slick tyres if that makes any difference.


texts: Would you prefer slightly long handlebar for bikepacking?, TourDivide

texts:
I'm about to cut my handlebar to 620mm or 640mm
I have 620mm handlebar with minivelo and I'm very much tailored to the size.
However, I've read wider handlebar is better for controlling..
Mike hall (below) seems to be riding with slightly over-sized handlebar to me.. I'm not sure though

edit - mike hall is the current record holder for tour divide.


texts: Does this chainring need to be replaced?

texts:
Here is a closeup of my triple:

All three rings are Shimano Ultegra and have never been changed.  They probably have at least 12000+ km on them.  I've been pretty good about changing the chain regularly although at this point I'm pretty sure that the rear cassette is in need of changing.

If you compare the middle ring with the two outer ones, it looks fairly worn (shark fin pattern).  Is it bad enough to need replacing?  If I just change the chain and rear cassette will I be entering a world of pain?

UPDATE:  Thanks for the advice so far.  I have a new cassette and chain standing by but would need to order a new middle ring since it's a bit exotic (one LBS didn't know Shimano still made Ultegra triples).  I know that there's a lot of km's on these rings (mostly on the middle one) and I'm also familiar with the "if it still skips, try changing it" philosophy, but I was hoping for a more objective answer.  Something about the wear pattern or what to look for if I put a new chain on?


texts: Which master links for 1/8 inch aka BMX chains?

texts:
It was very easy to find master links for 3/32inch (aka 9-speed chain) but I cannot find them for 1/8 inch (aka BMX chain). My chain is the Nexus CN-NX10. Cannot understand the odd observation that the master links are much more popular with the 9-speed category, I can find only one seller selling "BMX master links" in eBay. I need the master links to easily clean my chains in a fixie that has a lot of dirt in the internal of the chain. Currently, I use a multitool to remove the pin very carefully so not to damage the chain but it is not that fast. So which master links would you recommend for the 1/8 inch chains? If it is a poor idea to use master links with BMX chain, please, explain why.

Resources

perhaps an alternative way to take chains off easily: replacement pins


texts:
What is the first component upgrade to a 105 groupset? do I need to stick to Shimano? The crankset is Oval Concepts 520, forged 6066 arms, 52/36T.

The bike a 2016 Fuji Altamira 1.3, STI 11 spd, brakes are tektro dual pivot. Stem, handlebars and seatpost are entry level Oval Concepts


texts:
I need a bicycle luggage carrier (rack) for my Scott Big Ed fat bike, but it is not easy to find one that fits. And it looks like it is not possible to add front rack since the bike has front suspension.

Can you recommend a baggage carrier solutions for the fat bike?


texts: Are there any downsides to using a mountain bike as a commuter bike?

texts:
I am going to buy a bike soon, and I want to make sure I’m making the right choice.
I will be using it for commuting and light exercise (nothing over an hour of use a day). I’ve been recommended buying a MTB as it can be used for rough terrain and roads. However, I recently read that it won’t give the best performance.
Summary: I want to use a mountain bike for commuting.
Has anyone with a mountain bike experienced difficulty cycling on normal car roads?
And are there any real downsides to this?
Thank you


texts: I'm planning to replace my wellgo 6 degree float to look keo grip 9 degree float. I've searched for cleats replacement guide online but most of them only caters to replacing identical cleats. I'm pretty sure these 2 cleats have some minor differences. How should I go about it? Or should I go to a bike fitter for cleats fitting again? The latter is probably my last resort as it will cost a lot just for cleats fitting.


texts: Can non-tubeless-ready MTB tyres be used to go tubeless?

texts:
I'm trying to understand whether it's necessary to buy a new tyre marked as tubeless-ready in order to go tubeless on my new MTB.
Initially, I thought that going tubeless simply requires a sealant, tubeless-ready rims (or rims properly prepared with tape) and valves, and furthermore greatly benefits from having an air compressor at hand for easy assembly.
However, upon closer inspection of the description of the bicycle I bought (Decathlon's Rockrider E-ST 900), the following is stated: "TUBELESS READY rims: you will need tubeless tyres, Presta valves, and puncture sealant".
I didn't expect I would have to purchase new tyres, retailing at ca. EUR 50 each. Is it really necessary to buy tyres marked "tubeless-ready", or is the above list of requirements (i.e. valves, rims, sealant and an air compressor) sufficient for making tyres tubeless? If so, are there additional comprises or preparations to be made when using ordinary (non-tubeless-ready) tyres?
On a side note, the tyres on the specific bicycle I bought are of the type Taipan Koloss (Hutchinson), 27.5x2.8in, and according to the manufacturer's website these tyres are already marked "tubeless ready", which introduces additional confusion.
Another note, I noticed there are a few similar questions, but they do not seem to address the need of tubeless-readiness of tyres in particular.


texts: Tire size switch out to wider tire , is that possible

texts: I have a Bacchetta Sparta with 650x 23c tires, can I switch out to a wider tire ? Seems it would be more stable.


texts:
Why can't I find a drive hub with a larger flange on the left side than on the right, so I can tighten all the spokes to the same tension?

Is it the racing industry that has decided that it just is not worth making the wheel stronger laterally? I had problems finding cones for the shimano slx 675 hub I have two of , so now I must find a new cartridge bearing hub for my heavy cycle truck.

Velocity had an MTB hub built that way, but it seems to have disappeared off their buy-able list.


texts: Compatibility of pressure gauge with valve

texts:
I have a tube with schrader valve, for which I want to buy a pressure gauge. Is there a specific type of nozzle for different types of valves?

How many types of such nozzles are available for different type of valves?

Are these nozzle types compatible with different type of valves?

e.g. is Schrader type nozzle compatible with presta type valve?


texts: 2014 Diamondback Jr. Viper Brake Problem

texts:
BIKE

2014 Diamondback Jr. Viper

SPECS

Specification            Description
---------------------------------------------------
Best use                 Cycling
Bike style               BMX bike
Bike frame material      Steel
Frame                    DB high-tensile steel
Bike suspension          No suspension
Fork                     BMX high-tensile steel
Crankset                 1-piece steel, 36t
Bottom bracket           Loose ball
Rear cogs                18t freewheel
Brake type               Coaster brake
Brakes                   Rush V-brake
Brake levers             Rush RX2.1
Rims                     Alloy
Front hub                Steel, 36h
Rear hub                 Steel, 36h
Wheel size               20 inches
Tires                    Comp III Style, 20x1.75
Handlebar shape          BMX bar
Handlebar                Steel BMX
Stem                     Alloy quill
Seat post                Steel pillar
Saddle                   DB BMX Padded
Pedals                   Resin platform
Headset                  Threaded steel
Chain                    KMC Z410

PROBLEM

The brakes on the handlebar are really hard to pull and make a popping noise when you pull all the way in. Also, when you just roll the bike, it feels like as it rolls, the brakes are being applied.  We've already taken the bike back to REI to have them adjust the brakes and/or spokes on a truing stand.  I don't know what else to do or how to correct the situation.  We simply want the bike to be able to roll freely and have the brakes apply only when depressing the pedal or the handlebar brake.


texts: Last week I bought a old bike from a going-out-of-business sale at my local bike shop.  It's a 1962 Schwinn but the seller didn't know the specific model.  Judging by this 1961 catalog and this 1962 catalog, it's a Hornet -- the other models seemed to have had a different style rack -- but the 1961 Hornet had that iconic Schwinn tank on the front.  Was the tank removable?  Assuming the rack is original, could this have been some other model?


texts: What is the best gear ratio for speed on 20inch frame

texts: I'm trying to figure out the best gear ratio for my 20 inch frame


texts: I'd it possible to purchase 16" studded tires? I have an old Dahon I use as a winter bike, and I'd like to replace the tires with proper snow tires if this is possible. If not, has anyone here successfully made studded tires from smaller-wheeled knobbies?


texts: At the end of my last ride the back brake started rubbing hard on the disc. It almost feels like the brake cable had popped out of the lever. The bike is relatively new to me, and I am not very familiar with disc brakes. I can take it to the shop, but I wanted to be able to fix myself in case it happens again. Any ideas on how to fix, or what caused this? It is a Specialized Epic with Avid brakes.


texts:
I have a bicycle with a 6061 aluminum frame. I had to replace the rear wheel, and I bought a wheel with an axle length that is a few mm short for the dropout spacing.
In order to fit the axle into the frame I would have to "squeeze" the dropout about 4mm. Currently the outer dropout of the frame is 144mm, and everything seems to fit if I squeeze it down to 140mm.
I have already ordered a longer hub axle, but it will be at least 2 weeks until I get it, and I would like to ride my bike with the squeezed frame until then. I know that in general, it is not a good idea to bend or even squeeze aluminum frames, but I am not sure those measly 4mm will make that much of a difference.
So, my question is:
Considering this is an aluminum frame, will the 4mm dropout squeeze cause damage in the long-term or maybe breakage? How safe is this?


texts: Updating my vintage Shimano 600 chain rings

texts:
Will the chain rings support the new 7 speed chain? the new one will actually be new old stock: Shimano 600, 1983

I'm putting on a new 7 speed freewheel, chain and rear derailleur.


texts: Please help me identify this bike (Staiger MTB)

texts:
Please, help me identify (i wanna know "the model") this bike you see at the picture.

Thank you so much, guys!


texts: how to install a chainguard, when the chainring doesn't have screw holes?

texts:
I'd like to install a chainguard like this:

on a bicycle that's will be spend it fair amount of time commuting, but on closer inspection I see that the largest chainring doesn't have the necessary screw holes, to my surprise (naively enough I assumed this would be "standard").

Also, since this a Hollowtech crankset, using something like this seems to be out of the question as well:

Is there a way to attach a chainguard to a bike like this, without having to resort to a full-size chainguard?


texts: Does anyone know of a lightweight motorcycle style open face helmet for eBiking?

texts:
I'm relatively new to eBiking as I had always been able to pedal my bikes until a couple of years ago. One issue I found was the wind chill factor during winter. You can go faster than normal with less energy required, meaning I have less internal warmth to fight off the cold and a higher wind chill factor, particularly on exposed shin and eyes.

My answer was to zip tie a light weight motorcycle visor to an old ski helmet. I know it is debatable as to whether a ski helmet is safe for cycling. see (Using a ski helmet for winter biking) for further discussion (I may have posted this question as a comment to that thread but further replies are blocked).

For myself I am happy that each type of helmet passes almost identical safety tests and the ski helmet has less open vents so in my mind makes it at least as safe. So far this set has done two winters with out any further mods of maintenance and worked well at keeping the wind and rain off my face. (I am thankfully yet to test its protection capabilities).

It works but is not completely aesthetically pleasing and the visor is always going to be a zip tied on addition rather than part of the design. (Could this be an issue in a crash?) Does anyone know of a similar type of product with an integrated full face visor that is already out there. I have looked at bike and ski helmets (no full face visors), paragliding/hangliding helmets (probably due to relatively small numbers made the few I've found that offer same features are £300+) and motorcycle/scooter helmets (feels too heavy at twice the weight).

for now when its cold I'll keep using but any other suggests are welcome. Thanks


texts: What inner tube should I buy for 47 tire size, 650bx47c tires?

texts:
I'm pretty new on this and want to buy a spare inner tube. These are my specifications of the tires:

Tire Size 47
Tires Maxxis DTR-1, 650b x 47c
Wheel Size 27.5
Presta valve

When I'm browsing, I see results like:

Inner Tube - 650B/27.5" - 27.5" / 1.5" / 2.4" / Presta
650x28-42 Bike Inner Tube - Presta
27.5" x 1-1/2 (650x35) Presta Tube

But I have no idea what the 1.5"/2.4", 1-1/2, etc. mean. Which one should I choose?


texts: How to adjust rear brakes on this bicycle?

texts:
Background

Because I just cannot ask a question without a textwall of unnecessary context. This is my old bike. It's somewhere between 20 and 25 years old; the last 15 of which were spent on my balcony (dry, but outside temperature). It's seen all my teenage years, but not a professional mechanic. Lately we've started cycling in our family, so I've resurrected it. I changed the tires and the tubes (since the old ones were a lost cause), and the next part that is now giving me trouble are the brakes.

The front brakes are kinda OK-ish. When I say "cycling" I mean "slowly cruising between 10 and 20 km/h, because we have a 6 year old kid with us", so for that purpose they are fine. Although I wouldn't expect them to perform any emergency stops. Still, I guess that's just a matter of tuning so I'll just keep on twiddling them until I get them right.

The rear brakes however are so weak as to be basically negligible. And I haven't been able to do anything about it.

The actually relevant stuff

There are several things which have me stumped. Here's an overview. I've marked two points:

At point A the wheel is pretty close to the center between the two metal frame parts, but at point B it's significantly closer to the right side (that is, closer to the camera). Since it's not centered, the left brake pad has to travel much farther than the right. This in turn means that the total distance both pads have to travel together is larger than what my brake lever can do. Hence: not enough pressure to the pads.

Unfortunately, I cannot see how to aligh the wheel along that axis. The only available adjustment is in a direction perpendicular to that which I need.

Then we come to the brake pads themselves. The left brake pad is fine, but the right one is at a significant angle to the rim:

These are new brake pads, by the way, I bought those too since the old ones were really worn out and one was even bent for some reason. But how do I adjust THAT angle? There is nothing there that I can see:

I'm starting to wonder if maybe my frame is subtly bent and all this is a lost cause? Does anyone know how/if it is possible to make my rear brakes work?

P.S. I've been told this is an older type of brake system and I haven't been able to find a video/tutorial that shows how to properly adjust it. If anyone has a link, please share!


texts:
I'm currently working on a steel frame that I got off ebay. I'm removing the existing paint using wire brush adapters for a drill (didn't want to get involved in nasty chemical baths). One result of this is that it gives a nice "brushed" effect, which I thought would look quite nice unpainted.

Would a clear lacquer, such as this one, be sufficient to keep rust at bay?


texts:
I've been using my Brooks saddle for about 1 year and at first it was really comfortable but less and less I think. It's my first leather saddle so I might do something wrong here :)

I bought the care kit from Brooks and have applied it twice. First time on both bottom and top and second time only on top.

It feels like the saddle is a bit too loose but I'm really uncertain. In my kit I have the tool to tighten it but when searching online for how much tension I should but on it I didn't get any answer. So how hard should I stretch it?

I also see a bump on the front part of the saddle. Normal? Or is that due to too little tension?

Any tips?


texts: I have recently been scammed by a seller into giving me a 20inch wheel rather than a 26inch one. I didnt have time to check and have left that country where i bought it, forever. Now as i am 17 i cannot obviously fit into the 20inch wheels on my mtb bike. My question is can i replace its wheels with 26 inches one? Is it possible? I bought it for a hefty price and i cannot afford to discard it


texts: How do you distinguish a touring bike from a speed/road bike?

texts:
I would like to buy a touring bike soon, but in our country I cannot find any well known touring bike. I would like to buy a used one so I am going to visit some of the bicycles stores of our capital city. I am afraid I do not know how to recognize a touring bike.

What are the differences between a touring and a speed/road bike (e.g. eyelets on the folk)? Unfortunately I have not had enough experience to classify them based on the frame geometry but if you can tell me any tips I will thank you. :)


texts: Have rollerbrakes a longer stopping distance than drum brakes?

texts: In my experience rollerbrakes are very weak comparing with drum brakes. Is it normal that they have a much larger stopping distance than other brakes or is it just my own bicycle?


texts: Hydraulic rim brake with racing bike levers

texts: I came across the picture below which claims to show racing bike levers of a Magura hydraulic rim brake (source). According to the source website the displayed break levers belong to Magura HS77. I can find Magura HS77 on the internet but not with racing bike levers nor do I find any other racing bike levers for hydraulic rim brakes. Is anyone aware of the existence of racing bike levers for hydraulic rim brakes or hydraulic rim brakes with racing bike levers?


texts: My bike after a new spray paint, gets scratched easily

texts:
I completely sandpapered my bike a few months back and repainted it with a coat of primer first, and then matt black. The paint was sprayed only after sandpapering the bike with the appopriate gritt so as to make sure that the primer would stick great.
With the original paint, my bike hardly got scraped too much and too badly, but now, it is easily scratchable. The pure metal is visible as if the primer and the matt black simply were peeled off (where the bike got scratched).
What could I have done so differently to make it so much more scratchable than the original factory paint job?
More Info

I sandpapered the bike clean and wiped it down with rubbing alcohol as suggested (I don't remember where).
Avoided touching the frame before the painting.
Sprayed a coat of primer.
Once dried, sprayed the matt black paint.
The paints were not at all sprayed heavily to make the paint peal off, and not too lightly either.


texts: Bottom jockey wheel on rear derailleur keeps skipping chain

texts:
Basically the angle between the bottom and top wheels is too great causing the chain to skip to the outside of the bottom wheel under force. If I use the higher adjustment screw on the shimano derailleur to align them better the top wheel is then not aligned with the smallest sprocket.

I'm a beginner and had an attempt at working it out but probably missing something obvious.


texts: I'm considering upgrading my GF Tarpon to a 27.5" wheelset. Is this possible? And how will affect the ride? In general, I've heard people say no, and some people say yes (nothing specific about this bike, though).


texts: Presta valve letting all the air out when I screw it back in

texts:
I'm getting frustrated with my bike's Presta valve.
I spent 20 minutes before the air would move into the tube, all undone by screwing the end of the valve back in which temporarily releases air. I reckon it was 1.5 seconds of air release getting the end of the valve screwed back in.
Any tips on how I can avoid losing air?


texts: Restoration after immersion - what needs doing?

texts:
I'm taking my usual approach to learning how to fix things - I've acquired a bike in need of repair (for free!), and am working it out as I go along. In this case, the bike got caught in a flood and spent a week or so under a couple of metres of river water.

So far, I've disassembled and cleaned everything, and so far as I can tell:

The bottom bracket is dead, so I'm getting a new one.
The frame, somewhat surprisingly, seems fine: no signs of rust anywhere.
The brake disks had some minor surface rusting that came off with the mud, and now seem fine.
The headset bearings were full of river water, so I've disassembled and de-greased, and will be re-greasing when I reassemble it.
Given that all of the other bearings were knackered, I assumed the same for the wheel bearings, so have cleaned and re-greased both.
The whole drivetrain seems OK, after much cleaning.
The pedals are a bit rusty, but I'll be swapping them anyway, so I'm not bothered.
The shifter cables seem OK.

For things that I know I'm not sure about:

What do I do with the front suspension? Previous bikes have all been road bikes, so I've no idea what I'm even looking for here. It's one of these. I assume the river water will have done a nasty on it, but what's the best way to go about fixing it?
This bike has hydraulic brakes (Tektro M286). What do I need to check about these? Any likely problems?

Finally, is there anything that I've not listed above that might have been damaged and not be obvious at a glance?


texts:
I'm a 5'9.5 and I use a 26er gt and I don't feel that comfortable as it feels so small. I've also tried a 27.5 merida, it was an improvement but I can't still quite grasp that same feeling when you were a kid and bikes were huge. I feel a 29er would be better for what I'm craving for, but since I've been hearing about 29ers being sluggish, for a guy who loves single tracks, would buying a 29er which is slightly more expensive a choice to regret?

BTW I live in a city where there are limited bike shops, and they don't give test rides. So please help me. I don't want to spend my budget on something I really want and then regret it. An answer from someone who already had or have a 29er would be great, but anyone would be appreciated.


texts: What factors should one look for when purchasing a speedometer? Does wired vs wireless or anything else factor into its accuracy?


texts: Is a spacer needed for the drive-side when installing a bottom bracket kickstand on the NDS?

texts:
I saw this kickstand on eBay:

It mounts on the bottom bracket. When installing this, should a spacer also be installed on the other side of the bottom bracket?

Right now, my crankset is a Shimano 105 FC-5700 with the inner chainring removed and my cassette is a 10-speed 105 11-28T. I was just wondering if a spacer would be added to the drive side, would that affect the chainline much?


texts: What's the smallest travel case for a full suspension 26er?

texts:
I want to travel with my full suspension 26er MTB. It seems like I should be able to pack it pretty small since the largest part of a road bike is usually the frame itself.

If I can unbolt the frame into two pieces, I feel it would take up no more room than the wheels would (which are small, being a 26er).

What's the smallest bike box I can get for traveling with this bike?


texts: Is it safe to mount fender stays and disc brakes on the same bolt?

texts:
I bought these fenders recently:

The rear fender works fine — there are enough mount points to support my brake, kickstand, rack, and fender.

But when the salesperson sold me the fenders, we both failed to realize that my bike's front brake uses both of the mounting holes available on the left side of the fork:

I went back to the bike shop, talked to a tech and he gave me a longer bolt, recommending that I just mount the fender stay on the outside of the front brake (with some washers surrounding it). But when I asked at another bike shop, someone told me to definitely not try mounting them on the same bolt.

Could mounting them together cause any problems with brake alignment or reliability, or is it fairly safe?


texts: Quick release prevents wheel spinning freely

texts:
I just got brand new wheels for my road bike.  All was looking great until I tightened the quick release on the front wheel (not too tight, I can close it with just my thumb and one finger) and now the wheel doesn't spin freely.  Seems to happen a little bit on the rear wheel too.
Is it normal for this to happen a little, like on the rear wheel?
Is there something I can do to fix the front wheel or should I return it as faulty?
Edit - The wheel uses cartridge bearings and the end cap is just a push fit; there is no cone or locking nut


texts: LBS said creaking under torque is normal?

texts:
On my last question I asked about a creaking/tick I was getting when I was stand pedaling on a climb.

I took it to my LBS today and they said they had stripped all the crank and BB and re-greased it all and all is well.

When I took it out that evening it clearly wasn't and was probably worse so obviously I took it back there today.

They then told me that really the whole gear system is designed so that I don't need to stand pedal uphill.  My response was don't talk to me like a 5 year old and explained that I like the challenge of sprinting uphill.  Apparently according to the man who served me, theres not a lot I can do to prevent this noise when I'm stand pedaling?  My other bikes don't do it, but apparently a Trek 6300 does much to my confusion?

Can someone please tell me if this is normal? Or am I getting conned?

He basically tried to make me feel a bit stupid as I'm still new to this and then decided that trying to sell me a Shimano Hollowtech 2 chainset including BB which would help strengthen the bottom of the bike and prevent the noise?

I'm a bit confused now to be honest and would like some unbiased expert advice from you guys.


texts: Cannot fit pump nozzle properly to the presta valve of my tyre

texts:
I bought a Reebok Bike pump yesterday which is this one. I have presta valves for my Jamis Allegro Sport 2012 hybrid bike and I was trying to pump the tyres using the pump as part of my monthly maintenance. I could not lock the pump nozzle to my presta valve because the nozzle was not fitting properly even after locking the clamp and was constantly coming out. Additionally, I could not hard-press the nozzle as it might damage my presta valve. I would like to know what the problem is and if I (possibly) need an adapter to corretly fit the valve? Does anyone have any previous experience? I kind of feel that the pump itself is rubish

Also, When I connected the pump to the presta valve, it did not gauge the existing air pressure which is weird as I expected it to show so.


texts:
Can someone please help me identify this bicycle?

My mom has had it in storage for ages – I believe it's from the 80's or early 90's. I'm not sure what is original and what was changed... But you all probably know far better than I, so here are some photos!

Thanks in advance :))

xx


texts:
Well, two weeks ago I bought this fixed-gear bike and although it was my first time buying one of its kind, I considered it was cheap.

Problem here is that when I tried to search for any clue of the brand... oh surprise, there's no brand!

I was told that it was a pure cycle fixed bike, but I realized that it was painted over and the only thing that I have is a serial number that throws no information when I search it on the web.

Should I invest my money in add the front brake? And also all of the details that it has? (Bad paint job, change relatively new wheels, fight the rust that is forming in the gear?)

I paid $80 USD. And I bought it mostly because I wanted to have a fixed bike and to start learning to repair bikes. Could I sell it for more than the final price that will cost to me?


texts:
The Tour de Trump (later Tour DuPont) was run from 1989 to 1996 on the East Coast. Information regarding the details of these events seems to be sparse, especially the earlier editions.

Does anyone have maps of the stage routes for each of these events (1989-1996)?


texts: How can I know my brake fluid needs changing?

texts: I have a few bikes with shimano disc brakes. I know changing the fluid is something that can be done and I could probably work out how to do it but I don't know what to look out for to know its time to change the fluid. I know someone who took in their 8 month old mountain bike to the store for a service and they said the fluid needs changing. Is this too soon? Are there any changes I can notice in my brakes that will let me know its time to change the fluid?


texts: How often should I have maintenance for my bike?

texts: I am a non-expert bike rider. I keep my bike in a closed storage during the winter and ride during the summer. Do I need to do some kind of maintenance at the beginning of each summer? Is it safe to start riding directly when the summer begins?


texts: There is a lip on my brake pad from bad positioning. Can I remove the lip?

texts:
One of my bikes had the brake pads positioned poorly and they developed a pretty pronounced lip where the pad hung off machined braking surface on one side. The bike is using cantilever brakes.

These brakes have great stopping power, but It's hard to adjust the pads since one of them has an uneven surface due to the protruding lip.  Is there any way to cut off, grind off, sand off, or otherwise remove the extra material from the brake pad to make it even again?


texts:
during my morning ride today, I slipped and fell down, and as a result, a crack formed on my carbon frame. I have checked the entirety of the bike and this is the only crack, but I am not sure if I would need to go repair this. My bike is Cannondale Supersix Evo Hi-Mod Ultegra.

Thank you very much.


texts: How can I tell whether any crank is cold forged, hot forged or cast aluminium?

texts: I know that cold forging allows for sleeker designs because cold forged aluminium is stronger. Are there any other giveaways that indicate a certain manufacturing process?


texts: How do I use up less when I go down the hill? What is better? If I really drive down (I start down the hill fast and when I will at the foot of the hill I will have a rest since I slow down to my average velocity - in this point I will start pedaling again.) or if I have rest by the way down the hill and start pedal again at the foot?


texts:
I'm trying to install a new tubular tire once again. The problem is every time I do this I always get it wrong because I always have this area (let's say 10-15cm each way) around the tire's valve that kinda extends a bit so when I ride after the installation I always have this wobbling, which you barely notice when you ride slow but when you speed up it's getting kinda annoying and a bit scary.

I watched A LOT of videos on youtube, I used different kinds of cements, tape and ways of installation, but I can't get it right for some reason. Maybe it's because I use cheap tires or I need to do something after the tire is settled on the rim?

Please tell me what am I missing here?


texts:
I have an old wheelset with a 16T cog. It's currently a 120mm flipflop hub, and I'm going to be replacing it with a 120mm coaster. The coaster hub that I want doesn't come with a 16T cog (only 14, 15 and 17 for some reason).

Rather than mess around with chain tension, etc, I was wondering if I could just use the cog from the old wheelset on the new hub, or if it's more complicated than that.

More info: old hub is a 32H, 14G, 16T cog. New hub is a velosteel 32H http://www.elegantwheels.net/STORE.html


texts:
I've looked at most of the answers for related questions and they all speak about replacing parts that are old.

I just bought a new bike from a friend who rode the bike for about a month before leaving it in their garage for about 3 years only riding it on occasion.

When riding it home I came round a corner and was about to head up a slight hill. I shifted gears and the chain came off.

Yesterday I rode it to work and it was fine, but the chain keeps slipping whenever it is under reasonable load (such as going up hills).

I did some research and watched a few youtube videos. I also have a housemate who has been riding for years and we adjusted the derailleur this morning. But on my way to work this morning it still slips regularly. It is not slipping into another gear just crunching for a split second. It also changes gears without problem.

I looked at teeth on the gears and everything looks good as new. It is a 21 speed with Shimano gears.

Although everything is quite new could the chain be stretched just sitting in storage? What else should I be checking?

Update to cover some of the points in the answers:

The chain only came off once on the day I was riding it home after I purchased it. The chain is now just slipping. I think it came off due to the way I changed gears.
I'm not sure if the slipping is happening on the front or rear gear or as it goes through the derailleur
It's not my gear changing technique. At first I thought this may be the issue so I tried going easy on it yesterday and it still sleeps even if I have been in the same gear for 2 minutes before going up hill.
I have noticed it slips if I can't maintain the same pressure on the pedals. So if I slightly weaken the pressure for a second or pedal slightly slower it will slip.
There is no visible rust on the gears or the chain, but I will look at some of the other posts and see how to clean and lube the chain and will check this weekend to see if there are any stiff links. There is also no visible damage to any of the gear teeth, front or back. However the derailleur does look dirty.


texts:
I recently bought a new wheel for my racing bike. The first few rides were in rainy weather so I took the cassette off to clean it. When I put it back on I noticed that there was a gap of several millimetres between the outer sprocket and the lock ring. As a result the two outer sprockets (the ones separate from the rest of the cassette) wobble quite noticeably when I rotate the wheel. The cassette was fitted by the LBS where I bought the wheel. It is 8 speed (Shimano) and has 12 teeth on the smallest sprocket and 25/26 on the largest.

I have another 8 speed cassette on my bybrid bike. That had 32 teeth on the large sprocket and fitted just fine when I put it onto the racing bike. Likewise both cassettes fit ok on the wheel of the hybrid bike.

Having looked at other answers on this site, it seems like the most likely explanation is that I mislaid a spacer when I removed the cassette. Does that seem right, or is there another possible explanation which I have missed.


texts: Experience biking with child trailer during winter?

texts:
What's your experience biking with child trailer during winter in the city?

I live in Cracow, Poland. Recent winters were almost snow-less, but it's <0°C cold and slippery anyway.

I am used to biking alone but never hauled 60kg behind me on a slippery road. Here are few things I am interested in:

Tires on bike and trailer. I have Croozer 2 seater with whatever funky tires it came with. My bike is a folding electric city bike with nice Schwalbe Big Apple 20" tires.
Mud/dirt. My Croozer came without any fenders. It get's dirty even during summer.
Kids' clothes. It was 15°C recently and I closed the translucent "window" in the front of the trailer. When I put my hand inside after few minutes of biking it was really nice inside. Boys confirmed but they have a history of lying.
(bonus) Electric 20" wheel in the back. This will be interesting :)

Updated with bike details. It’s chinesium bike branded EcoBike in Poland. They probably sell under a different brand in other countries.


texts: Front derailleur cage on new road bike will not shift

texts:
I have recently bought a new road bike. On my first ride out, when shifting the the front derailleur onto the big ring the cage would shift over but the chain would not. I took it home and adjusted the height and angle of the cage and tried to remove slack from the cable, I did not touch the limit screws. However this seems to have made the problem worse as I when I shift the front gears the cage doesn't even shift at all.

Not sure if this will help but here are some photos : https://imgur.com/a/1oVjDLX

I've tried looking for answers online and the suggestion is not enough tension in the cables. When I shift onto a higher gear there is little to no slack in the cable but when I shift down there is a lot of slack again after tightening it up, is this normal and could it be the cause?


texts: Why does my vintage Shimano rear derailleur come with brake style cable housing?

texts: I got a NOS Shimano RD-6400  rear derailler and it came with cable housing that I usually see on brake cable housing with that thick wire coil inside. I always thought those aren't suitable for shifting because they are designed to compress under load. What's the deal here?


texts: New mountain bike feels sticky or grinding when pedaling

texts: While pedaling my relatively new mountain bike Hyper Bicycles 26" E-ride Electric Mountain Bike bought from walmart.com), I feel a bit sticky or grinding feeling for a short part on each crank rotation. I noticed when I initially open the box, there were one or two small metal balls (~2mm diameter) fall out, not sure where it is from. Is this sticky or grinding feeling related to loss of the bearing balls? Or the new bike just needs to be lubricated?


texts: How to remove a stripped bottle cage mount?

texts:
I was taking off my bottle cage on my Specialized Secteur sport triple, and I found the mount was spinning with the bolt. (I believe it is called a rivnut but I am not 100 percent certain.)
Before I realised, the threads were stripped. I think I am clear on how to get it, but any tips would be good; the problem is there is a bottle cage in the way.
Does anyone know how much it would cost to replace or tighten the rivnut and "rethread" the threads at a bike shop? I am not interested in a clamp-style bottle cage.
I am fairly skilled in bike maintenance but don't want to scuff the frame and don't have the tools required.


texts: How to separate ODI grips from lock on clips?

texts: Are there any tricks to separating ODI grips from lock on clips. I'm worried that if I go at them with a screwdriver I'll end up damaging the clips.


texts: New build, front derailleur won't shift to outer cog

texts: I'm building a new bike using a Deore T6000 front derailleur with Microshift BS-M10 bar end shifters. I'm having trouble getting the derailleur to shift the whole necessary range and am looking for suggestions before I take it into a mechanic. The H limit screw isn't stopping the travel, since I can pull on the cable and have it shift to the large cog. I've read that if I can pull the cable and shift to the larger cog, the cable is too loose, but if I re-tension the cable with either a frame barrel adjuster or by pulling the cable, I may be able to shift to the outer cog, but the shifter cable prevents the derailleur from hitting the L screw and I can't shift back down to the inner cog. I've also checked my derailleur height and angle and it doesn't seem to make a difference. The parts seem like they should be compatible, but now I'm starting to wonder. Any ideas?


texts: How to keep the pants from getting dirty

texts: If it is wet, not necessarily pouring rain, it is easy to get the bottom of the pants and the shoes dirty. My tires have protective platesfenders, yet it is not enough. If there a way to avoid that?


texts:
I've just bought a lovely Surly touring frame and I simply stuck all of my mountain bike components on it.

That means I've retained a flat handlebar. I'd really like to stick drop bars on though and change to road "brifters" without changing the drive train.

I've tried Googling this and it seems to be complex issue so any advice would be most welcome. I have Shimano Alivio gears, front and rear plus a Shimano Diore crank (with the external bottom bracket type). The rear is a 9-speed cassette (11-30) while the Diore triple crank is a 48-36-26.

I really want to stick with this, not just because of the expense of buying a whole new drive train but also this set up gives me a really low bottom gear (30 on rear 26 on front) for getting up hills with a fully laden touring bike.

I understand I may need a new front derailleur but I may be able to get away with keeping the rear derailleur and using a ten-speed brifter such as a Tiagra with the 9-speed cassette. Is this right? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Bicycle Pump: Dual (Schraeder/Presta) automatic valve stuck

texts:
I got a pump with an head like this, and I use both the presta and the schraeder opening. The problem is that the automatic switching does not seem to work as well as it once did. It is pretty random where the air comes out, and most of the time it involves a lot of shaking and cursing before I can get my tires pumped up.

Can I fix this somehow? The pump was not cheap, and I would like to avoid getting a new one, though the hassle of getting air out of the correct hole is annoyinng.

This question is about a Pump Head, where the mechanism does work (air only comes out of one hole), but switches pretty randomly.

I want to get an answer if there is a solution without replacing the head, else i would order a new pump head.


texts: I’m looking for a entry level road bike under $500

texts: I’m a 15 year old who’s looking to move from mountain bikes to road bikes, can you give me some suggestions on what to look for in a entry level bike.


texts: Chainguard vs front mudguard to protect the chain from spray

texts:
My local bicycle mechanic advised me to get mudguards (such as the ones in Image 1) to extend the life of my drivetrain and protect it from spray in the winter. If I have £20 to spend on either a chainguard (see image 2) or a front fender, would I be better off with a chainguard? Would this be lighter and provide better protection for the drivetrain vs front-wheel-spray? Image 2 shows how a chainguard on a bike (3-9 derailleur) could block both spray which would be stopped by a front fender (green lines) and spray which would slip past underneath a front fender (blue lines).
Are there any chainguards which would divert mud flowing along the underside of the down tube, so it drips to the ground before it can flow onwards and build up around the axle for the pedals? (Otherwise I guess I could accomplish this by DIY-fixing a mudflap to hang down from the down tube.)
NB, I would still use a rear mudguard regardless.


texts: How long can I ride my bike with a worn cassette?

texts:
I took my bike to the mechanics the other day and along with needing my chain replaced they said that I also need my cassette changed and the front cogs.

I was wondering how long I can ride my bike now with a worn cassette before it becomes unridable? The teeth on the cogs seem a bit worn but they are nowhere near as bad as what I have seen on other videos.

What can I expect to happen when the cassette does start to fail? Gear slipping? Crunching sounds?


texts: Bicycle Trailer Hitch Design Considerations

texts:
I have been pulling a bicycle trailer with my Surly Karate Monkey for approximately 3-4 years. I have been using cheaply obtained used kiddie bike trailers, usually removing the fabric and adding a simple, lightweight deck to support the loads I carry. Works great! The trailer is attached to the bicycle with the standard left side quick hitch. Its a simple design and more than adequate for light duty use. I have been progressively increasing the loads on my trailer and demanding more utility from the system.
I am in the process of designing a new hitch system and looking for design considerations.Surly makes a nice hitch system for their trailers. BOB also makes a nice trailer design. There are also trailers that attach to the seat post or upper frame area.
There's also this setup
What are the considerations for where to attach a bicycle trailer hitch? What is best for heavy utility trailer use versus pulling a kid to the park?
I am considering something of a hybrid trailer hitch that attaches to both sides of the axle and has a frame incorporating features of both the surly/bob going back to a single bicycle wheel. This single bike wheel would have a frame around it including an attachment point for the simple single point hitch to pull kiddie bikes. The idea is to reduce tongue weight of the trailer acting on the frame of my bicycle and increase the draft load I can pull. I would also be adding trailer brakes to the system.
Thanks for any input.


texts: How to mitigate the risk of riding on highways

texts:
I'm planning a single-day ride between the cities of West Palm Beach and Orlando, Florida: roughly 180 miles. I'm trying to plan my route for safety. However, there are no routes to Orlando free of major highways.
I'm no stranger to cycling Florida's country roads. I've cycled between West Palm Beach and Naples, which is around 130 miles. During that trip, however, I managed to minimize the amount of time on major state highways by taking some two-lane county highways (which are less traveled). Still, the small amount of time I did have to spend on the major highways was very distressing, as large trucks frequent those roads, traveling at well over 65mph.
While planning my trip to Orlando, I managed to map most of the northbound part of the trip to follow the coast, where I can travel on the barrier islands that line the treasure and space coasts. The speed limits on those beach roads are usually lower than 40mph, and people are in less of a hurry on them; they're mostly used to get to residences and for leisurely drives along the beach. My problem comes when I must travel west. The only westbound roads into Orlando require me to ride along US192, or some other state highways with similar infrastructure (no bike lane, only a paved shoulder).
If I want to complete this trip, I believe there is no avoiding these roads. My question to the community is, if you're forced to ride a treacherous road as part of the route for a tour, what kind of precautions do you take to help ensure your safety? I know there is always a high risk present riding along a highway, but learning how to mitigate that risk may just save my life or the life of a future reader of this post.
My route:


texts: 8 speed chainring with single speed 1/8" chain

texts:
Can I use a chainring designed for 6/7/8 speed with a single speed, 1/8" chain?

The rear wheel only has a single cog - no derailleurs.


texts: If a lane is going to expand should the left lane be taken prior to the expansion?

texts:
This is US law and roads.
Drive on right side.
Speed Limit is 45mph (72kmh)
And as @Benedikt Bauer pointed out solid white lines are not supposed to be crossed.
In the morning though there is very little traffic here. It will be heavier on my way home but then its not a left turn.
I'd also point out that this isn't nearly as far as Street View makes it appear with their wonky lens. I was hoping to snag a photo this morning myself but didn't catch the red light. From the shopping center entrance to the main intersection is 500 ft according to Google.

Pretty sure while making the screenshots I figured it out but I'll ask anyways since I went through the trouble. I don't plan on taking this Left for a long time, if ever (I'll either go Pedestrian to get across here until I'm more confident or take a different route). But this is the most direct route from my place to work.

The issue is the road goes from 2 lanes and then gets a right turn lane and a left turn lane into shopping centers. Then after that it expands further to have 2 left turn lanes, 3 straight lanes, and 1 right turn lane. That's where I need to make the left.

• 2 lanes getting ready to expand with the turn lanes into shopping centers:

• This is the shopping center intersection. The light further in the distance (500 ft in actuality) is where the intersection is. Cars would typically get in the second lane (not the left into the intersection but the one after that) and then as they cross the intersection get over into the turn lane. You can see this is what the SUV is doing in the picture. I would think this would then be the safest way for cyclists to do it as well but would have to take that lane so cars getting into the left don't cross into me:

• This is the main intersection where I need to make the left. So I need to be in the right left turn lane (2nd lane from left):

• Here is a Satellite view by request. I labelled the left side is the area I'd be approaching from and the top is where I need to get to.

• Finally, its a bit hard to see but this is what it looks like from the light at the shopping center in the morning. You can see there's very little traffic at this hour and I'd actually have to leave 15-20 minutes earlier by bicycle so there would be even less.

What would be the best way to get in to the left lane? I've seen cyclists there so I know it can be done, just never seen the whole process. I'm thinking after writing this:

get into the left lane right before the shopping center intersection when its still 2 lanes.
staying right in the middle of that left lane forcing cars to slow
down behind you if there are any cars. (Of course only taking the lane when there is ample time for the car to slow down)
Get over into the (right-most) left turn lane once across the shopping center intersection.

Is this how you all would do it?


texts: What is the optimum location / offset of a derailleur hanger vs axle?

texts:
In my particular case, I would quite likely be using something like a GoatLink so I can use an 11-40t or 11-42t cassette on a home-built recumbent tadpole trike (so, single rear wheel). I'd like to use it with a triple crankset. Are there any reasons for me NOT to just add the derailleur hanger in about the location it would be with the GoatLink installed?

How far behind and below the axle center should the derailleur hanger threaded hole generally be? Either in a general case, or for large range cassettes in particular.

What are the downsides of it being too far down or too far back? I would have to guess that as total distance from hanger to axle increases, that shifts to/from the higher gears (smaller tooth counts) would be "less crisp". Maybe ground clearance as it moves too far down? Maybe not enough chain around the circumference of the cogs as it moves too far back?


texts: During a recent ride my tire went flat on my tri bike. I was about to change the tube but thought I'd just put some air in the flat tire first. Amazingly it held air for the rest of my ride (another 2 hours). Why does this happen?


texts: Joe Breeze HiteRite altenative... ideas before I get hacking!

texts:
I think the old HiteRite seat dropper springs are excellent for cost and simplicity, but of course they are like hen's teeth now.
I've been looking at torsion spring suppliers and adapting seat clamps and collars to make one (actually a few, as I have some pre-orders :) but JUST before I get hacking, does anyone know of an alternative that's still in production, or a common hack/mod to make one?

Added as requested: here's an advert for one where you'll see what it looks like and how it works:

Cheers!
Ben


texts: Can a bike wheel be damaged if it's hit by a mop?

texts:
I can't keep my bike inside my flat, which is why I used to keep it in the staircase of my block.

The problem is, the janitor mops the staircase every day and I'm afraid he will hit the wheels of my bike with his mop.

I'm about to collect my bike from the repair service. They had to install a brand new wheel, because the old one was bent so badly it was almost unusable. While my bike is not new or expensive at all, I still don't want this to happen again.

Granted, my bike was subjected to an even worse mistreatment than just the janitor's mop, which was probably why the wheel got broken. But still, is it possible that this mop has contributed in benting the wheel?

Should I take measures to protect my bike from janitor's mop or may I ignore it?


texts: RockShox Tora TK mountings for Hope Mini M4

texts:
I'm on the verge of buying a RockShox Tora fork for my bike, and plan to use them with Hope Mono Mini M4 brakes.  I'm stumped as to what mounting to buy for these, how do you guys find out this information?

RockShox Tora TK Suspension Fork with PopLoc

Hope Mono M4 Mini


texts: Recommendations for transporting twins on the front of a bike

texts:
are there any child seats that can be used for twins (6 month old)? I don't like the idea of putting them in a trailer as I suspect its easy for cars to not see it.

Also - special bonus point to anyone who knows of a solution that is compatible with a tag along bike (used by a five year old)!

Edit I am discussing some custom options with local bike mechanic, will report back when I have update.


texts: Do brake pads designed for both carbon and Alloy rims exist?

texts:
I had in interesting question today that got me thinking. Are there any brake pads that are marketed specifically to be able to switch between alloy training rims and carbon race rims? As in switch wheelsets but using the same pads.

Generally i would think this is a bad idea as an alloy material that made it's way into the pad could then utterly destroy a carbon brake track.

Then i saw this on competitivecyclist.com

  SwissStop makes it clear that there's no need to swap out pads from carbon-specific to non if you switch wheels from your carbon race-day gems to your aluminum training set. However, we'd recommend always checking your pads and removing aluminum debris before installing your carbon race-day wheels.

However after checking Swissstop's site for their yellow carbon compound pads, there was no mention anywhere of them also being compatible with alloy rims.

I would also tend to think the specific compounds like differ quite a bit and something that stops quick and quiet on carbon or basalt brake tracks would not have the same attributes when used on alloy.

Has anyone ever heard or seen such a thing?


texts: What bike should I get? For forests and city mainly

texts:
So right now I've got a hard tail but I'm not really happy with it. At the moment I'm only riding my bike in the city even though I am planning on riding it in the forest and parks as well. My question is what bike to get. Should I get an enduro bike, downhill or whatever is best for the above mentioned categories.
That being said, I don't have any mountain biking experience but I know how to ride it well.

Or should I keep my bike which I am using right now?

I hope you guys can help me and thank you already so much for your help!

Have you got a suggestion for a new bike? price range up to 700 Dollar/Pound/Euro please


texts: 23, 25 or 28mm tyres for very smooth, flat road - what's fastest?

texts:
One of the runs I do on my roadbike is a very straight, flat, very smooth strip of road. Everything I read recommends wider tyres because of less rolling resistance.

Where does tyre weight come in? How much do the aerodynamics make a difference? Because the road is so smooth does that make a difference?

I've recently been trying some (admittedly not great) 28's in place of my 23s and they have seemed quite a bit slower on this road.

I'm getting up to speeds of between 30 and 50kph (if the tail wind is right..) to give you an idea of wind resistance..

Perhaps it's all in my mind?


texts: Which Shimano freehub body fits Campagnolo Calima?

texts:
I have a Campagnolo Calima C17 wheel set with currently a Campagnolo freehub body (FH-BU015) on it.
Does anyone know which type of Shimano freehub body fits on this wheel hub? I searched but I cant seem to find an answer. Before I spend lots of money on a body that does not fit, I want to be sure.


texts:
So I started riding my 10 year old MTB again and got a flat front tire around 4 miles away from home.  Being a novice, I decided to ride it all the way home.  Found a hole in the inner tube and patched it up, pumped up and was good to go.  Until it punctured again and again and again.
I've now got 3 punctures on the inside of the tube (i.e. on the rim tape side) and one of the newest punctures on the outside / top of the tube (i.e. inside the tire wall).
I've decided to buy a new tube but really don't understand what is causing the punctures and think it will happen to my new tube, so want to understand what I should look for.  Bearing in mind that my bike is 10 years old and I don't want to spend a great deal of money as I will eventually buy a new one.
I inspected the tyre itself, it appears to have some damage to it, for example when the tire is pumped to 55 PSI, I can see small cracks in the side wall, these are very few and slight.  Also, when the tire is off, the bit of the tire that grips inside the alloy is slightly shredded (i.e. tiny bits of rubber have come off).  But this stuff is only visible if you look at the tyre with a close eye thoroughly, your average joe can't spot these bits of damage so I am curious whether this damage is enough to warrant a tire replacement or enough to be causing these punctures.
I inspected the inside of the tyre to look for debries or anything sharp in there that might be poking the tube but I can't seem to see anything, the tyre itself pretty much has brand new tread on it and has no holes / punctures.
As the tube is mostly getting punctured on the rim tape side, I looked at the rim itself and it also seems to be fine, however there is places where there is small bits of paint loss on the rim, these places are very slightly to the right of the rim tape so if they are sharp enough then perhaps they can puncture the inner tube? I ran my finger across them and they didn't feel sharp.  It's hard to tell if they are damaged from me riding on the flat or just imperfections in the paint given the age.
Also, there are punctures on both sides of the tube now so it can't just be the alloy, my initial theory or hope is that given the tube and tyre are 10 years old now, the tube rubber is just weak and creating holes on its own? Is that possible?
So my question is, what can I do to investigate this further? What products do I need to buy or replace? Inner tube is coming tomorrow.


texts: Mapping the most gentle route for my single speed

texts: I commute to work on a single-speed road bike, so it's a lot easier if I avoid any steep hills (preferring to cover the same gradient gradually). Taking a look at a map, there are seemingly 3-4 sensible routes to get from point A to point B. Short of trying them all, is there any way to evaluate which has the most gradual climb?


texts:
I'm trying to buy a front wheel which will work with both disc and rim brakes so that I can use it on my cross bike (with rim brakes) and my mountain bike (with disc brakes) with a dynamo hub to power lights for night riding.

Can I use a disc rim with rim brakes (cantilever or caliper) or will I need to buy a wheel that does not have a disc specific rim?


texts: When is it time to replace the gear-cable housing?

texts:
Please keep in mind that this question is specific to mountain bikes which roll through lots of dirt and mud. I heard stories of bikes that had their cable housing last for years, but I doubt that this applies to mountain bikes (or maybe it does).

How would I know when the housing needs to be replaced? Several options occur to me:

As a rule of thumb, always replace the housing together with the cable. The reasoning is probably mostly the low cost of materials which is a few dollars.
To the other extreme, do not replace the housing unless you get some indication that it needs replacement. For example, visual inspection finds some wear and tear or the cable won't move freely while tugging it.
Something else.

My current practice is to follow option 1 but I would be interested in knowing if there is perhaps a more efficient option backed by the experience of the masses.


texts:
I just installed a new front disk brake and the rotor rubs a bit once per rotation.  If I take the rotor off and place it on flat surface, it seems totally flat but once installed I can see/hear it rubbing onto the installed disk brake caliper once a rotation.  It's enough friction that it's making the wheel stop spinning pretty soon compared with when spin it with the brake off(not sure how to quantify it)

Is this normal?

(The new brake is an hydrolic Avid 7 Elixer and it replaced the original (also hydrolic) Avid 7 Juicy that came with the bike.  It's the original rotor.  The fork is a Lefty and therefore there's not any adjustment to be done on the wheel.)


texts:
Does anyone know the etymology of the term 'spoke nipple'? The wiki page on Spoke Nipple and even google doesn't have the answer.

Are there other threaded mechanical screws that are more like 'nipples'? Or did the end of spoked wheels at one point resemble nipples (say, for wooden wheels)? Why are they called 'nipples'?


texts: Possible to utilize magnets only to spin a bike front wheel for a longer duration (less drag)?

texts:
Possible to engineer a new front bike wheel hub that would spin more freely, and for a longer duration, due to the use of magnets ?
The mechanical advantage is (not motor) and uses magnetic forces only. The objective is less friction, and more rotational force, to therefore enable the wheel to spin more freely and for longer duration.


texts: What is the most eco friendly way to clean your bike? I want to use a degreaser and other cleaning solutions that are biodegradable.


texts:
I assembled a new bike. It rides smooth in first gear but makes a particular noise in 2nd and 3rd gear. It doesn't seem to be from the wheel because it's not there if I turn the wheels in air, but it is when I am riding the bike.

This is a new bike that I assembled. It has disk brakes if that matters and total 3 gears.

What could this be?


texts: My bike keeps making this grinding noise around the back wheel/casette/chainring area when I get speed on a tech/ jump trail

texts: It is an older bike that hasn't been used in years and I recently got it serviced and began using it on the trails.  It is a specialized stumpjumper from around the 2004/2005 era and everything seems to be running smoothely except for the noise.


texts: I have a tube with a Schrader valve, previously repaired (twice). I needed to use it, so I inflated it by hand until it ballooned to 2x the size, search for leakages in water (valve too) and let it all night to check for slow leakages, but none were found. Later, I put it inside the tire, inflated it by hand (~15 psi) again, put a little soap in the valve, and went to check my email. Ten minutes later, it was totally flat. I repeat the whole procedure twice and it was the same story: the tire showed no leakage outside the tire but lost all pressure when inside the tire. (Finally, it blew out while outside the tire). Why is this happening? I'm just curious ...


texts: Is the bike i'm using right for Mountain Biking?

texts:
Im not exactly down with the terms used in MTB, I have recently bought a new bike. It was within my price range and its great for riding on the road and forest trails. Its a "Carrera Hellcat II Limited Edition" 29er. Its got 100mm of travel (front suspension only) So i was wondering if this bike would be any good for doing some mountain biking trails. I know of one near to where i live.

If anyone could shed light on this i would be very thankful.

I am 6ft and weigh approximately 165lbs

Thanks, Jack!


texts:
I received a GMC Denali road bike today, and it doesn't look like the pictures displayed online.

The problem is that the front tire overlaps pedal, and I found it very dangerous.

So my question is, is this normal? Or should I get a refund?


texts: Suggestions of a good video on intermediate Mountain Biking skills: getting up (and down)  1' obstacles

texts:
I'm looking for a good training video on intermediate mountain biking skills.
(I've been mt biking for about 12 years and I'd like to improve my skills.)

I'm looking for a video that really breaks the skills down and maybe provides suggestions of drills to practice.

I'm looking for DVDs or online videos (YouTube, etc.).

Update:

Skills I'm looking for:

Getting over 5" to 12" tall obstacles (rocks, fallen trees).
Manual Wheel lift (which would probably help with the above).
Jumping /Descending down something really steep (2' drop off, etc.)


texts:
I have a Schwinn Searcher Sport 2011 Hybrid Bike, with a damaged seat post.

Thus, I require a 26.8mm seat post with suspension. In India, I have searched, but I am not able to find a suitable seat post.

How can I obtain a suitable seat post?


texts: Headset stiff when the bike hasn't been ridden for a while

texts:
The headset on my bike is stiff when it has not been ridden for a while, but becomes smooth again after a few turns. It does not feel loose. The headset is IS42 standard.
What could be causing this?