texts: What is the origin of BSO - and is it internationally recognized?

texts:
Who is the first person who came up with the appellation, "Bicycle Shaped Object" (BSO) referring to very inexpensive and very poorly built bicycles sold through mass-market department stores?

Bonus question: And is it international? We use BSO in America and I've heard b.se members from Australia and New Zealand use it, but is it used in the UK and Canada? What do people in France or Japan or other countries call BSOs?

If the bonus question makes this question too broad then I'll withdraw the bonus and make it a separate question.


texts: Do mudguards/fenders help? If so, what are the best for a fixie commuter?

texts:
I ride an SE Lager fixed. I'm riding on sealed paths and roads pretty much all of my commute.

On wet days my bike picks up a lot of water and also a lot of sandy/silty residue. It coats the frame and also clogs up the chain a lot. I imagine that my chain life will be suffering because of this.

Has anyone tried running mudguards and seen what kind of a difference it makes? My fixie doesn't have a huge amount of frame clearance around the wheels so I'll need something fairly minimal. I've seen these Crud Roadracers and they look like they have good coverage.

PS: I know that putting mudguards on a fixie is sacrilege (to some people... I'm not in that camp). But I'm running it for endurance and reduced maintenance, not exactly for style.

Update: Thanks for a bunch of awesome comments. However the thing I'm really wanting to focus on is whether I'll get a significantly longer lifespan for my running gear. I have waterproofs and don't mind the mess so much, I'm just trying to reduce my maintenance load and expense. The major areas I see that might be improved is chain (and therefore cogs) and maybe the bottom bracket, if I can reduce the amount of water hitting the seat pole and running down into the bracket.

Update 2: I bought a pair of the Crud Roadracers and, wow, they make such a difference. I rode on quite a wet day, but my running gear and clothes all stayed completely dry. I'm concerned they might not be durable for a commuter, but I'm certainly sold on mudguards/fenders for now.


texts:
I've installed new front derailleur (Shimano Tiagra) on my bike and I spent embarrassingly lots of time trying to adjust it. Yet still I think I have a problem with it. For me it seems too tense. You need to apply some strength to the shifter in order to make the derailleur switch to the larger gear. When I try to go to the lower gear it does it with a scarily loud sound.

All that I can think of is that the spring in the derailleur is too tense. Yet I see no means to adjust the tension of the spring. Can anyone tell me what am I doing wrong here?

Thanks guys! You're the best as always!


texts: What's causing my thumb tremor after riding?

texts:
After asking this beginner's question, I took people's advice and started test driving bicycles. I rode for about twenty minutes, so not too long. About fifteen minutes later, I found that my right thumb had developed a serious uncontrollable tremor. Whether I clenched the thumb or relaxed the thumb, it kept shaking. The left was not shaking.

I test drove two bikes (both relatively upright): one where the hand grips + brake handles fit well (though I didn't have padded gloves so that caused some pain) and the second where the brake handles were far enough from the hand grips that I could only reach them with my finger tips. I returned quickly with that bike because it hurt and I didn't feel safe being unable to control the brakes well.

I had ulnar nerve problems with that hand/wrist twenty-odd years ago, though the ulnar nerve numbness ran from my pinkie and ring fingers up to my neck and didn't involve my thumb at all.

Is the thumb tremor simply a result of bad-configuration-for-me handles? Or is it a symptom that I haven't ridden in forever? Was it the lack of proper padded gloves? All three?


texts: Wheel diameter affects speed? Comparing 20in Foldie wheel vs 700C wheel

texts:
I am currently riding a Foldie with 20in wheels and also a 700C road bike, and I see that (Subjectively) I can ride ~5kmph faster for the same effort on the road bike. I am curious to know how much of this is due to wheel diameter if at all.

I understand the foldie weighs a lot more, but that should not be a significant factor on the flat. The foldie should also be less aero (Since i am upright, also the fat tyres) but even that should not be significant at the speeds I am riding (15-25). There might be some effect based on component quality as well.

I have heard that smaller wheels hit bumps harder enough to cause more rolling resistance. I also wonder if the foldie wheel having to spin faster than the road bike for the same speed has anything to do with it.

TLDR: I am curious to know what makes my road bike consistently faster than my foldie, and how different factors weigh in, especially the wheel diameter.


texts: Bottom bracket bearings grinding only when installed into frame

texts:
I recently purchased a new carbon frame direct from a Chinese manufacturer (link to the particular frame here).  The frame has BB86 bottom bracket. I am using the SRAM Press Fit GXP BB86 Bottom Bracket. Outside of the frame, the bearings seem to run smoothly when I move them around with my finger. However, once I press the cups into the frame, there is a significant grinding/drag present in the bearings. Here is a video that hopefully explains better what's going on.

I contacted the manufacturer of the frame, and they suggested that either the bottom bracket is broken, or has been pressed in "too hard". I'm relatively sure nothing is broken with the bottom bracket itself, since I purchased it brand new. I have also removed and reinstalled the bottom bracket several times with varying levels of force, with similar results. I am using the installation washers included with the Park Tool BBT-90.3 and a long threaded rod with two nuts on either end to install the bottom bracket.  Any idea what's going on?


texts:
I'm an out of shape 60 year old and have just purchased a bike for the first time in almost 30 years. It's a Giant Seek 3 hybrid and my intention is to commute to work on it at least 3 times per week.  It's about 7 miles one way and the route is flat,  paved streets, some of which have bike lanes.  I live on a hill so the start won't be a problem.  But, coming home will be about a 3/4 mile pull uphill with only one flat stretch of ~150 yards.

Can anyone offer me any help/tips on what I might need to get started safely?  Should I work up to the commute or "just do it"?

Thanks for your time.


texts:
I have a carbon bike frame that has a seat post with diameter of 31.6mm and i got a clamp that said  34.9mm but it doesn't fit on the frame (too small). There is no manufacturer details outside of the below geometry. The frame was bought secondhand and it looks like its model number FR 905 from a Chinese company called FLYXii.

I am helping friend build it.

I measured it with a ruler and it not perfect but it looks like its 35.5mm plus or minus .2mm


texts: Reoccurring Bent Axles, any reasons or upgrades?

texts:
Earlier this month I had a issue with a broken axle.  It was the original that was sold with the bike and lasted around 5,000 miles.  I went to my LBS and bought a new axle (unbranded, labeled, etc, paid $13, came with cones, spacers, and hardware).  I did the install myself and had everything adjusted nicely.  The next time I rode it was on my commute to work, but I didn't get 4 miles into it when I found that I bent the axle.

I took the wheel to the shop but they wouldn't do anything about it since I didn't have them do the work.  However, I figured this was a fluke and asked them for a new axle and to true the wheel.  Once again I did the install of the axle and only got 15 miles out of it this time before bending it.  Before I got home I felt the wheel get stiff, but it stayed true.

The question is what will be a cause of bending 2 axles in 20 miles?

I think the guy at the shop said it was a cro-moly axle (while talking to another person today at the shop, these may not be), and he couldn't believe that I bent it.  If so, where would such an axle fall in the quality hierarchy?

Or is my hub toast?

While the wheel was being repaired, I swapped to a new original wheel for about 2 weeks.  I have not had any issues with it, but I wanted to keep it as new as possible.

Reading other questions I saw a comment that said not to use a hub where the bearing was catching.  I did have one in this wheel but I figured since it is a cheap wheel I would just burn it up and move on to a better one.  Besides, it has lasted 5k miles without issue to this point.

The bike in question is a 2008 Schwinn High Timber with Joytech freewheel hubs.  I do use a trailer with this bike using a Burley axle hitch.  While I had the hitch installed on both axles I bent, I did not have either trailer hooked up to them.

Something I would like to note is that when I removed the first bent axle (axle #2) that the cones on it had a wavy bearing track.  I didn't think too much of it, and I put them on axle #3.  Only having a few miles on them shouldn't have made a difference?


texts: What is the second thread on the crank for?

texts:
I am trying to fix the problem with my bicycle where the left crank keeps unscrewing itself. The thread on which a serrated lock nut should keep the pedal in place is conventional (clockwise to tighten).

When looking closely at both sides. There is some sort of thread on the inside of the crank cavity itself and it's not used by anything since this cycle has been bought. May anyone know what this may be for?


texts:
I'm building up a vintage mid 70s AlAn that cannot have it's rear drop outs cold set to a wider width.
I have a nice set of williams clincher wheels which are substantially lighter than anything oem (28/24)
By replacing the shimano freehub with a 7spd and the axel with a 7spd length is it possible shrink the rear hub width to 126mm from the 135?
(I realize I'll probably have to redish the rear wheel)


texts: 50t / 38t Shimano Zee crankset double 10 speed casette old mountain bike commuter conversion

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I'm creating a commutter from an old mountain bike - a 2006 specialized rockhopper pro.

I have a bunch of components hanging about and I have a Shimano Zee front crankset with a 38t and I have a 50t ring (104 bcd compatible). With long chainring bolts/nut I could get a 50t ring and the 38t on it. A set up a bit like a compact chainring on a road bike.

Rear is a 10 speed casette long cage slx. I have been running it wiht a 1x10 for mountain biking use but essentially I am trying to add a 50t on the front and still wrangle it so the chainline is ok.

I also have a fairly old front mech bottom pull and a new-ish slx front shifter that is 2/3 speed compatible.

Issues I may face:
- distance between chainstay and 50t ring
- chainline
- length of chain for 50t ring and biggest ring on 10 speed at the back.
- left shifter doesn't work with old front derailler.

Most mountain bike triple chainrings have a 48t large ring. Is there any reason I couldn't use the 50t ring?


texts: I have a jc higgins bicycle with manifolds and I want to no if the model number is correct the number is mod 502 307 thanks


texts:
I'm drawing up a plan for a trailer, I've looked at quite a few online and some have larger wheels than others.

Does anyone know if a bigger wheel (or smaller) conveys any advantage to handling or anything else? I have spare 26 inch wheels and can get smaller ones.

It will be a single wheel trailer.

Update clarification, the idea is basically to chop up another bike removing everything except the forks and the bars in the picture and turn it around, then a bar to go over the bikes back tyre and attach under the seat.


texts: What should I do at, and what should I know about, bike shows?

texts:
The Toronto bike show is this weekend. I've never been to it, in previous years, or to any other. Apart from what my LBS told me briefly about the show last year, and the show's web site, I don't know what to expect.

I think the show is for consumers, LBSs, and manufacturers: I'm a consumer (I commute by bike).

Click to visit the Spring Show page


texts: Would my normal sized feet still fit snug on a wide shimano shoes? I’m looking to buy the RP3 but only the “wide” is available. I’m buying online so i can’t personally try it on. Appreciate all the help. Thanks.


texts: Maintenance lube for Aluminum Electra Townie

texts: My wife just bought me a used Electra Townie with aluminum frame and wheels. The previous owner claimed it had been serviced in the past year. Checking the bearings, I can tell it was a poor job of lubrication, probably done by the seller using who knows what for lube. What lube(s) are proper for the various bearings, etc on this bike?


texts: Why do my brakes squeak? Do I have an incorrect distance between brake pads and rims?

texts:
My brakes were working normally until I adjust them today. I thought the brake pads were too close to the rims so I increase the distance a bit. Now every time I brake, they make horrible squeaking sound. However, when I test them in slow motion, they won't make that noise. My guess is only when the bike is moving fast, the brake pad cannot hold the wheel strong enough; consequently, the wheel slides on the pads causing the squeaking noise. Please correct me on that if I'm wrong.

Now, I wonder if there's any golden rule on the optimal distance between brake pads and rims?


texts: What features make a disc brake caliper unsuitable for use with other than resin pads

texts: Shimano says its Tourney mechanical disc brake is "designed for resin pads only".  What is it about the design of a brake caliper that makes it suitable only for resin pads?


texts: This summer, I'm going to buy a BMX bike because I've wanted one for a while, and I have zero self control. I'm going to paint it because first off, the color is kinda boring, and second, spray painting things is fun. The bike is a Kink Gap XL (2021 model) and the paint is from Spray.Bike. So, when I paint it, I'm gonna have a friend disassemble it for me (because I don't trust myself to do it) and then I'm gonna mask it. So, other than inside all the holes, like where the stem and crank go, and the slots for the wheels (on the end of the fork and back of the frame) what else do I have to mask? I cant think of anything else, but I'm probably forgetting something. Thanks!


texts: Dealing with a scrape (cleaning a wound)?

texts:
A couple weeks ago I bought a new road bike for commuting to work with. Part of the commute is along the beach bike path, so there's usually some sand on it. Last week my tires slipped on the sand and I scraped my leg a bit. There was quite a bit of blood and a lot of sand in the wound, but luckily I had brought a rag with me (it was clean, but I brought it thinking I might need it to wipe chain grease of my hands) and some sanitizing wipes so I was able to do a decent job of cleaning it until I got home. I used the rag to wipe up the blood so I could see what I was doing and also to wipe off as much excess sand as I could. I then poured some of my water over it, then used the wipes to clear up some more of the blood and try to get rid of more of the sand. I was about 12 miles from home and this was all I did before I got there.

There are few questions I have at this point.

Was there something else I could have done about the sand? I REALLY didn't want a ton of dirty sand in an open wound, but I also didn't want to rub the sand into it either.

Should I have used the ocean water to clear away more sand and further sanitize the wound? I considered going to the water to help cleanup, but I didn't want to get my feet sandy and socks wet, and wasn't sure if it would even help at all.

Should I have done anything else before biking back/while biking back?

It's been more than a week, and each day I've been putting hydrogen peroxide on it, letting it get as much air as possible, and then putting a band-aid on it. I'm a little concerned though, because it hasn't scabbed yet. It seems like the band-aid is absorbing everything that would be forming the scab. I would leave the band-aids off more, but I'm still biking into work and wearing jeans there. How should I be taking care of the wound now?

Any advice is appreciated!


texts: The current chainring im using has 32 teeth but I need to buy a new one. The reason is because the chainring I'm using is actually from a 3x set so the teeth does not have narrow wide teeth which is why my chain keeps falling off. So I searched online, I found a 34 tooth chainring and I want to know if 2 extra teeth will affect anything on my bike. I haven't bought it yet, I want to know if it is okay to buy it.


texts: How do I bend my rear derailleur hanger (part of frame) back into place

texts: Somehow I bent my rear derailleur hanger, how would one suggest bending it back into line? In my case the rear derailleur hanger forms part of the frame and therefore if I snap it when bending it back, I could write off the bike.


texts:
I've been fiddling with my rear derailleur trying to fine tune it, because I just replaced my entire drivetrain (same components, but new)

The problem that I'm facing now is that I can't seem to shift into my lowest gear.

Derailleur hanger doesn't seem bent.
The derailleur itself doesn't seem broken or bent.
I also know that it shifted into the largest gear before so whatever I did must be fixable.

Here's a picture when I'm shifted in the lowest gear:


texts: Can someone help identify my bike frame?

texts:
I needed to replace my old fixie frame with something lighter, and with a standard BB shell. So I came across this one online. The seller bought it off a friend who stripped and painted it, so any knowledge of its provenance won't come from there.

What drew me to it was the fork. Clearly quality steel rather than piece of pipe bent into shape like you see on cheaply built single-speed frames.

It has a serial number on the BB shell (Y5K2698), but googling for this only points weakly to it being Japanese, possibly built for the American market, possibly in 1985. But I suspect it's rather more recent than that.

There are no bosses for shifters, cable stops or eyelets for panniers or fenders, only one set of bidon cage bolts on the downtube, and the seatstays attach to the side of the seattube rather than under the seatpost clamp. The dropouts are semi-horizontal and about 20mm deep. No engravings on the dropouts as far as I can see [edit: dropouts are marked as Tange, so I guess the whole frame is tange steel]. Purpose-built for fixed or single speed I would guess, due to the lack of bosses or derailer hanger, but curious that it has forward facing horizontal dropouts rather than track ends.

Here's an image of the whole bike, and here's a gallery of details (sorry- I should have stripped it for proper photos of the frame only, but I just took some snaps on my way out the door to work!).

If anyone can help I'd be grateful for your knowledge. Won't change anything of course; the bike is still a pleasure to ride irrespective of its provenance.


texts:
I have seen a great seatpost online that i would like to fit to my brompton. The only trouble is that the OD is 31.6mm instead of 31.8mm.

The  Brompton seat mechanism uses a plastic shim to help the seatpost rise and lower smoothly.

Anyone know the dimension of the brompton seattube and if it is possible to buy a new shim and fit to brompton frame so that I can fit this seatpost properly?

thanks!


texts: Can I convert flat bar to drop bars on a hybrid bike

texts:
I'm fairly certain that the bars should change out quite easily; I'm more concerned about the shifters and brakes. Currently I have a hybrid 18 speed with cable disc brakes and Shimano Deore XT derailer. I know that these are typically mountain bike parts. I'm eyeing up the Shimano 105 STI dual control shifter/brake. Is this even going to work?

My main reason for wanting the change is after riding the road for quite a few years with flat bars my wrist are starting to take a bit of a beating. I put some bar end on the flat bars to change my grip position, which helped my wrists, but now I feel my grip is too wide.

If pictures would help i can try to upload some tonight, any advice would help.


texts: What criteria should I be looking for in selecting a new hybrid bike model?

texts:
As a result of asking this question - Fracture in folding frame - safe to ride? - I've decided to look into getting a new bike.

As stated in my previous question I cycle quite a lot, but I know next to nothing about bike engineering. So I need a reasonably good bike, but I don't have the knowledge to make a good choice about what the best model might be.

I use the bike wholly on relatively short journeys on city streets, so some sort of hybrid commuter/road bike would seem to be ideal. A moment's research demonstrates that every reputable bike company makes one of these, often in a wide array of varieties.

My budget is only about £400 (that's ~$600). Having looked at the options in that range from just two manufacturers, I'm thoroughly confused.

Aside from the obvious (a strong, light frame etc.), I'm looking for a bike that:

Doesn't have an insane array of gears, and can control gears from the handlebars.
Can easily mount mudguards and panniers.
Has easily-changed brake blocks that I can do myself.
Eagle-eyed users will spot that my existing bike from that question is a folding bike: this is no longer an issue. I don't need a folder any more.

But to be honest, I don't even know how I can tell from the manufacturers details whether any given model will do what I want.

So: what should I be looking for when choosing a good bike model? I am not asking for a model recommendation (given that it's opinion-based) - just information on what I need to be looking for/asking about to guide my own choice.


texts: How should I clean salt out during Winters?

texts: Pretty simple question but I think some recommendations would make my chains a bit long-lasting. So when should you do something to your salted chains? When the chains already look rusty, can you use water to clean the dirt out and then oil as a lubricant, or is it better to throw rusty chains into the dustbin? So how to maintain chains in good condition during winter? Oil every day, what about water? May water do even more damage to the chains if the metal has become very porous?


texts: Tools for 2011 Santa Cruz Heckler tuneup

texts:
Hi, I have a Santa Cruz Heckler from 2011 that was in storage for the last three years, and before that I was riding it a few times a week on local trails. I never did anything maintenance-wise beyond changing tires and brake pads as needed. I've started riding it again and it clearly needs some tlc. The issues I'm seeing are:

terrible shifting and skipping drivetrain,
creaking from all over the place.

I plan to regrease all bearings and replace the chain.

I am interested in suggestions for maintenance under such a situation and also what tools I will need to do these repairs for this particular bike?

Update: I got to work and here is what I found.

-Headset and rear wheel bearings were dried out and needed grease
-drive side bb brearing was toast
-cassette and middle ring on the front are worn and need replacement
-The kona pedals came apart easily and could be greased

Thanks all for the pointers!


texts: What does a "dished" wheel mean? How to tighten spokes on such a wheel, without a spoke tension meter?

texts:
Should all the rear wheel spokes have equal tension? Or should

  the spokes from the side of the cassette be tighter, in order to skew to wheel in that direction, and the wheel to be centered in the frame

EDIT:

Ok, so this thing is called "dished" wheel. In the meanwhile I learned that often shorter spokes are placed on the side of the cassette.

If I do not own a spoke tension meter, how can I approach straightening a rear rim, or tightening up loose spokes? What is the difference in the procedure from a front wheel, where one uses the brake calipers to measure rim trueness, and pinching the spokes together indicates spoke tension, which has to be more or less equal around the wheel?


texts: I understand why cyclists shave their legs. I shave my legs. But as of recently have felt kind of funny that my legs are smooth and my arms are hairy. Is there a reason why we don't shave our arms too? Or are you supposed to shave both?


texts: Hydraulic brake cable invisible leak. Possible?

texts:
I've crashed hard, handlebar rotated as much as it could and I guess rear brake cable was stretched. Braking became soft. Time to bleed I thought.

But I'm completely unable to bleed it. Tried some many times w/o any success.

To test my bleeding techniques I've rebleed other (front) brakes - everything is fine. Even tried to push air first and then fix it by rebleeding. Works perfect.

Then I've tried to move parts of working brakes to non-working brakes and bleeding each time. Turned out that the fail point is cable (hose).

However I don't see any leaks or damages. At all.

Brakes: Avid Elixir 3 and it uses DOT fluid.

Is that possible for the cable to have some sort of invisible internal leak?


texts: Crank pedal spindle hole thread stripped

texts:
I'm attempting to reassemble my bicycle after it was shipped across the US. All is well; except one pedal cannot be screwed back in because the thread in the crank is stripped. The pedal itself seems to be fine thread wise, but I cannot screw it into the crank. I don't drive, and I live much closer to a home depot then a bicycle shop; I'm wondering if anyone has any repair suggestions? I bought a wrench to take the crank and arms off, but apparently I need additional tool too get it off; this was just an attempt at having more leverage to try and and screw the pedal in from the top. Anyone have any DIY suggestions? WD40, thread repair of sorts?

It turns out that the thread isn't completely stripped: just the first three or four threads at the entry point. I picked up some EPX cyle grease this evening, which I'll try tomorrow.


texts: Can a headset base spacer ring be removed?

texts:
My bike currently has a headset base spacer ring (aka conical or cone spacer) installed (like the tapered ring in the picture ).

Can this ring be completely removed if the steerer and spacers are adjusted accordingly or does this serve some purpose?


texts: What's a good way of cooling down my legs after a long ride? Are pain-relief sprays a good idea?

texts:
Usually, after doing some legs intensive exercise (150 burpees, 2 hours of football) my legs burn and I have problems to fall sleep, and to keep asleep. I'm planning a small bike touring trip, that should last around 7-10 days, covering over 100kms each day. I'm worried that I'll have the same problem every day.

What's a good way of cooling down my muscles? Is using pain-relief sprays a bad idea, because they conceal my muscles' complains? I'm talking about those cooling sprays, I don't know the name in English.

I'm looking for things that I can carry with me on the bike. I also understand that this burning feeling might be a sign that I've overloaded my legs, and that I shouldn't do that for several days.


texts: Is there more than one ideal seat post height based on type of riding?

texts:
Assuming one has the correct frame size for one's height, can there be more than one perfect seat post height for the type of riding? I usually ride only in the city with traffic and less than 3 miles one way most of the time.

But when I am doing longer rides I prefer to the seat post higher and my riding body said that there should only be one height- its either perfect or not..

I should say that my bike is an aero carbon road bike which I prefer to use even in the city but also on longer rides in the weekends about 25 miles or so.


texts: Choice of two Stevens bikes, which one makes more sense?

texts:
I'm going to need a new bike for next summer, my local shop carries and suggested Stevens. I've sort of narrowed down my selection to two, but since there is a steep price difference I'm not particularly happy about taking advice from the people I'm about to buy it from.

I'm looking at 7X LITE DISC vs. 8X SX DISC RACE, see comparison chart for comprehensive differences.

The main difference seems to be a fixed vs. a suspension front fork (I don't do a lot of off-road biking, I'm mostly on tarmac or grit, albeit steep roads), however I don't know whether all the other differences are significant. Is the 650 Euro price difference warranted?


texts:
If cycling directly behind a bus that was travelling at 30mph on a flat road on a windless day, how far would the rider have to move away from it to receive zero drafting benefit?
Is the distance-to-benefit relationship linear, or does the benefit decrease more quickly the further away from the bus the rider is?
Is it possible that at certain distances the rider would be worse off, i.e. they would suffer from being in the wake of the bus more than they would if there was no bus at all?
If it makes any difference, assume the bus is 10m long, and the front and rear faces are 2.5m x 2.5m, and the cyclist is average height riding a road bike on the drops.


texts:
I have been riding a bike for many years now, but I am embarrassed to tell you all that I  am an novice when it comes to repairing and maintaining bikes. I have always had a problem with repairing bikes.

I am very interested in learning about bike repair. I want to build a custom bike someday... :) I would be open to do some volunteer work and learn on the job.

I do not have all the tools or the workshop to learn on my own and cannot afford these...
If someone have some information where I can approach, I would be really glad.

EDIT:  I study in Germany and am looking for some information specifically in Germany  :)

I am extremely Sorry, if its not the right forum to post such questions...


texts:
For over a year now I'm using Sram's 1x11 X01 drivetrain. It works great, but the only thing I miss from my 3x9 XTR is the double up-shift on the rear derailleur. With 11 gears it only makes even more sense -- it's often annoying to click the trigger 4 times when starting a downhill section.

I know on the 3x9 XT trigger it was easy to do, as it was almost the same as XTR, but Sram's shifters probably work completely different... Is it possible to "hack" the X01 trigger shifter so it can double up-shift like the XTR?


texts: Should I use a narrower saddle on a road bike than I would on my hybrid commuter?

texts:
I ride a hybrid  (Trek Fx 7.3) as a daily commuter and have found a 143mm saddle to be the right width for me.  However I am looking into getting a road bike for long rides and am finding 130mm saddles seem a bit more comfortable on them.

Since I am new to road bikes, drop bars, and the lower position I am having a hard time telling if the better fit is all in my head.  Would it make sense that the more aggressive stance on a road bike would result in your sit bones effectively being closer together than the upright stand on my hybrid?


texts:
Shovel,
Saw,
Roulette (very long, perhaps even geodetic roulette),
Ax.

The trail will be built in a forest. So there's no rocks, just dirt, small stones and a lot of roots. What else will I need to build a good forest trail?


texts: I'm looking for a bike that would work for a long commute to and from work, around 45 miles each way, country roads and some city traffic.  I am a pretty experienced runner, and can do my barefoot 10 - 13 mile trail runs 4 - 5 times a week, and I feel I can handle the physical toll.  I've done a 20 mile commute, to and from work, and my boss lets me shower in the mop sink / freshen up and change.  Any recomendations?


texts: Are black bikes really stolen more than other colors?

texts:
Is there any evidence that thieves prefer one color of bike than others?

I'm not asking for opinion but for a citable reference.


texts: Where to find replacement Clarks Skeletal right brake?

texts: I had completely fixed a stuck piston, when I bloody managed to perfectly snap a reservoir screw so I have no chance of removing it. I’ve had a look online, but I can’t find anywhere selling either the right (front) brake whatever you’d call the whole lever + reservoir bit that attaches to the handle bar, or a the whole new lever + calliper. Any help would be very much appreciated.


texts: Clothing: when should we wear what, are there any guidelines/conventions?

texts:
I regularly cycle to work in London, at the moment the weather is between 5-9 degrees Celsius. I'm finding it difficult to decide what to wear in these conditions as I either get too much windchill (when I don't wear leggings) or sweat too much that it's uncomfortable or I look too disheveled when I arrive. It seems to be about striking a balance between not being too cold when I leave and not too hot once I'm in full flight. It's obviously much easier to decide what to wear when it's either really cold or very warm.

My question is, are there any guidelines or conventions governing what pro cycling teams / serious riders wear according to the temperature/wind conditions? Are these things decided by each rider or do teams decide?


texts: Is there any objective downside to riding a women's bike as a man?

texts:
I'm shopping around for a cheap, cruiser-style bike for my commute. As an example, AroundtheBlock from sixthreezero seems like it would fit my needs. However, the colors of their men's bike are really boring. The women's version has better colors, and I'm wondering, why don't I just get that one?

I had always heard that the primary difference with women's bikes is that the top tube is lower to accommodate skirts, and otherwise there isn't really a difference. While I don't wear skirts and don't have trouble stepping over a men's bike, I don't see how it would hurt either. Presumably it alters the mechanical properties of the frame in some way, but would that be noticeable enough for my intended use?

My commute is 2.5 mi long and completely flat. I am also an experienced rider and have no significant joint pain or problems associated with biking. I'm an adult man of average height and weight.


texts:
This is probably a really basic question but I'm confused by the whole brake mechanism so...

My left (front wheel) brake has to be pulled in really far before it actually starts to brake (I guess before the brake pads touch the wheel). What do I do to tighten it up? (diagrams would really help, I think)


texts: Why does my chain slip off the chainring when cruising or back pedalling?

texts:
My bike is a little more then a year old (although I do put a lot of miles on it, about 12 miles a day), this problem seems to have started about a week ago. It's a 7 speed Avilon Next (a cheap brand but works well enough).

What's happening is while I am riding, if I stop pedalling to cruise or back pedal (I know, why back pedal? Perhaps I'm near the curb or what ever, that's besides the point! It shouldn't happen at all!) the chain gets way too much slack, and then falls off my chainring. I'm not sure if it's something with my derailleur, or perhaps cassette (possibly my free hub?). But I think I've narrowed it down to one of those two.

Any help or advice will be great, thanks! Sullivan


texts:
What about ladies bikes?

I tried to buy one recently, like mine but with a smaller frame. It came with 700 wheels. Is that sensible? Shouldn't there be a smaller wheel for a smaller frame? Does North America versus Europe make a difference re. which non-700 wheel size to expect?

The LBS said that frames with/for small wheels were the "mountain bikes".

When we bought this ladies bike we wanted it like my other bike, which I like, but smaller: so an aluminium frame with no suspension, and disc brakes; and added a rack, and fenders, an optional pannier ... and a heavy ("Kryptonite New York") D-lock (I use my bike for year-round commuting). I also got Marathon Plus tires, hoping they'd never flat. Though she could lift the bike on the show-room floor (and when we rented it for a week-end test ride) before they installed those accessories, now that it's heavier she's not comfortable lifting it up and down stairs. What solution?

Not for this bike necessarily, but in general: what bike has features and accessories but is proportionally smaller and lighter? Are there specific accessories which may be part of the solution, e.g. by being especially lightweight or removable yet well-made?

This isn't for racing. It's for riding to and around the local parks, and residential roads. Along roads to the park. For shopping. Along flat bike trails next to waterways. Possibly through town or city traffic.

Some light-weight bikes are racers, aren't they. But racers are not an ideal ladies bike, I expect. What if a lady has limited upper body strength: I expect (I haven't tried them) that racing drop bars aren't ideal, and complicate learning to brake and shift gears (kindly consider a novice lady rider if you answer this question). Also on a racer, the gearing would be wrong for a novice city/recreational rider.

When I say "lady" I mean adult (possible senior) female, wearing pants (trousers) or shorts, height around 5'4" (160 cm) or less, paved roads and paths, non-competitive, novice (and consequently not athletic). I'd like her to ride an hour and enjoy it (assuming e.g. she already does 45 minutes on an indoor bike each day, and swims and walks etc.), and carry it up or down a flight of stairs single-handed, or put it into the back of a van, or onto a rack on front of a bus.

Summary:

People have said and my experience confirms that an LBS might stock only 700-sized bikes, even with the smaller frames. And that where they have a smaller wheel, it's on a mountain bike.
Adding a rack, fenders, and D-lock to an aluminium bike can make it too heavy to lift. Can such accessories be light weight? Apparently a few extra pounds makes a difference, subjectively.
Eyeing specifically light-weight bikes they tend to be racers. Is there a light weight but not a racer (the answer was "apparently not" in the LBS), and if not can one be put together? For a rider of say 120-140 lb (55-65 kg) at speeds like 15 mph (20 kph).
My wheels are 700x32 with Marathon Plus tires, for commuting. What size wheel and type of tire would be appropriate for a recreational ladies' bike?


texts:
This question got me wondering about self-extracting cranks: What bottom brackets are compatible with Miche Evo Max cranksets (self-extracting type)?

Where I've seen them on cartridge bottom brackets, I take it for granted that the crank bolt tightens the crank onto the splined axle and helps hold it there (i.e. 40Nm torque).

But, how is the crank held onto the axle, are the splines tapered and holding everything together (once it's on, it's on), or is it reliant on the crank bolt keeping it together?

Secondly, with external bottom brackets (or press-fit), how is bearing preload managed for self-extracting cranks? Seems to me that once it's on, it's on, it won't go on any more! if the spacing between the cranks is off just a bit, I don't see how it gets adjusted (maybe spring washers?)


texts: I bought a bmx with a 20x2.35 inch tyres on them, can i buy and put a 20x2.4 inch tyre on them without changing the rim and inner tube?

texts: I bought a bmx with 2.35 inch tyres on them , could I buy and put 2.4 inch tyres in the same rim and do I have to get another inner tube for it ?


texts: I can remove crank arms without a crank puller, is this a problem? I'm worried the crankarms might be loose

texts:
Currently, I'm little bit worried about the compatibility of my crankset and the bottom bracket. The crankset is Truvativ Isoflow, the BB is BB-UN55 (Square taper). Yesterday, after the bike hit +1400 km mark, I scheduled maintenance for the crankset. I disassemble the crank arms and the BB, cleaned them, apply grease (I use Phill Wood), and reassemble.

However, when I removed the crank arms, I didn't need a crank puller at all. This made me worried that the crank arms might be loose. So what I might want is tigthen the crank bolts. However, on the drive side, the right crank arm already hit "the limit" (see an image below) so it wouldn't go any further in.

To the best of my knowledge and according to this specification document, the BB should be compatible with the crankset. Its spindle width is 113mm to achieve 48.5mm chainline (The bike is a single speed), see a table on the bottomleft of the pdf document.

Another solution I found on the web is not applying grease on the spindle and the crankarm holes to increase friction. This is what I did. So think the crankarms are tighter right now. So far I have no problem, no creaking noise, and I doubt the crank arms will be fall off anytime soon. However, I'm not sure whether I'll have problems in the future.

edit 1:

I put some more information:

according to the pdf document, the crankset is compatible with
truvativ LE square taper BB which has JIS interface. The UN55 also have  JIS. So the crankarms and the BB should be compatible, right?
When I built the bike in April, I was noob so I put too much grease
on the spindle. I think this was the reason why the crankarms fell
off easily. That's why I didn't grease the spindle yesterday.


texts: Does the inner tube affect the maximum PSI?

texts:
If I have road tires that have a recommended pressure of 110 PSI and maximum of 120 PSI can I safely pump my tires up to that level or does the inner tube effect the maximum?

I currently have the tires pumped up to 90 PSI however the question What Pressure Should I Run My Road Bike Tyres At seems to indicate I should go for the full 110.

It feels when I'm pumping that it would be very hard to pump above the 90 mark and I am wondering if the quality of the inner tube (or a inner tube max PSI) could be the reason. Should I just go for it and try to pump it up to 110 PSI or am I best off leaving my tires at 90 PSI?


texts: First cyclocross race - how to choose and set up the bike

texts:
I have never raced but there is a cyclocross race at a park near me next weekend.

All it said is some sand and some drop offs.

I would like some advice on selecting a bike and setting it up.

I have Bianchi Cylcocross Concept and Salsa La Cruz Ti.
They are both Ultegra and greared the same 48/39  12-28.
Both cantilever and weigh about the same.
The concept is my workout bike and the Salsa by daily banger / commuter.

The Concept feels faster but the Salsa feels more stable.
I also feel like the Salsa can take a crash better.
So my thought is the Salsa.

I take it they race with cleats?
For a first race should I cleat.
I am comfortable with cleats.

I have touring tires on them now but I have some Conti 32 Twister.
Would they be OK?
Would I run them at max pressure?
I weigh 165.

I also have a Niner Air 9 Carbon single speed mountain bike with carbon fork, disc brakes, and tubeless.
I am not comfortable on big drop off on my cyclcross.

I rode the park on four set ups.

With 32 mm it was just too fast for me.
There are some downhills with rocks that I would need to run at max pressure and even not in a group picking my line I was not comfortable.

The Air 9 was super stable but not very fast.
I rode the park 15 minutes each direction and if the long hill is uphill then the single speed is not geared correctly but I am pretty sure they will have us ride down that hill.

The Salsa with 38 mm small block at mid pressure felt stable but still has a speed.

As far as cleats.  I would not want to ride the downhills without em.  Getting bounced hard enough that need bike attached.


texts:
Evening all,
Looking for advice please.
As a complete beginner, I'm unsure which type of road bike to match up with a Tacx Flux S Direct Drive Smart Trainer.
It has a this specification:
Compatibility: Bike & Axle: Race: 130mm; MTB: 135mm; Cassette & Wheel : Shimano & SRAM: 8 t/m 11 speed
Would a Carrera Virtuoso Womens Road Bike 2020 with a Shimano CS-HG50 8 Speed, 11-28t fit?
Please help


texts: Why are Avid brakes so difficult to bleed?

texts: I have bled Avid Elixirs 3, 5, CR, etc... I still have a hard time getting a "good bleed." I follow the instructions online, and via Avid's youtube video, I use the kit and it still takes me going through the entire bleed process 3 or 4 times until I give up and decide it's at least better than it was.


texts: Has anyone troubleshooted a creak issue by  leaning the bike at an angle and pushing down at the crank at about a 6 o clock position , causing the bottom frame to kind of flex to listen for any type of creaks?.... Is this a normal method of troubleshooting because I was pissed when I saw this done to my bike.


texts:
I've faced a strange issue with inner rear tube. It is Schwalbe Little Big Ben tyres 700x38C and Schwalbe tubes. After 20km (12.5 miles) riding tube was abraded by tyre at opposite side of valve. It happened two times before I shifted to Maxxis but the same happened again with the Maxxis tyre.  I do not have this problem with the front wheel. With red marked places of abrasion.

Little Big Ben it is special high profile tire acting as vibration damper named Baloon Type. Could be tire too big for the tube? May be I have to inflate more?..Anyway it is strange...
Has anybody dealt with something like this?


texts: Lights for Rixen Kaul Klickfix shopper basket

texts:
I am looking for a solution to attach lights to my Rixen Kaul Klickfix shopper basket:

Any suggestions? Would this clip work with the basket above?


texts: New stem, bars & shifters on old Bridgestone 700

texts:
I recently bought a 1980's Bridgestone 700.  I have trouble feeling confident on this bike between the narrow drop bars and the downtube shifter. This is my all-steel commuter and I'd like to put either wider drop bars or possibly even flat bars on it.   The current bars are 25.5mm diameter (hope that's close enough to an inch) by 16 inches wide. The fork/ stem is 22.2mm diameter. My modern road & mountain bike forks and stems make sense to me but this is a whole different era. I'm also thinking of changing the shifters. Everything is Shimano 600 currently.  My questions are:

Is there any way to get a modern stem with some rise in it on to this bike & what parts will I need?
If I decide to add a more modern shifter/brake combo what should I look for to ensure that the new shifters work with my existing deraileurs?

Thanks!


texts: Non-drive bottom bracket cup loose/wobbly - what options are there?

texts:
I have this pretty/ugly Pinarello single speed and for a while I had a problem with the bottom bracket lockring loosening up and the BB clicking.

After I removed the cranks and the lockring I can feel that the non-drive side BB cup is not tight in the BB thread. I really mean the cup, not the spindle.
Even when the cup is fully screwed in (so the spindle turns freely but doesn't have any wobbles) I can move the non-drive cup up/down/left/right by hand. It's a tiny movement, but it's observable and visible to a naked eye. It's as the threads on the cup and the BB did not match. The threads on the cup and inside the BB look ok, but I haven't cleaned them yet.

If I put locking on the removed cup it also isn't tight. It seems it fits, but there is tiny sideways movement.

(I don't think this related but after removing the non-drive side cup I still cannot remove the spindle - which I think usually should come out.)

Question:
What are my options? Since the non-drive side cup for cartridge BBs are typically made of plastic, could this be an option?

The two pictures below are my attempt to show that the cup can move up/down:


texts: Prevent xtracycle hooptie rattling noise

texts:
My Xtracycle hooptie rattles around when I go over bumpy roads when I don't have a passenger.   Does anyone have a suggestion on how to keep it from rattling?

I did move it to the most narrow position which helped but it still rattles around a bit.

Generic image of a Hooptie from xtracycle website


texts: Is cycling behind a truck a bad practice?

texts:
Sometimes on a highway outside my city, Nairobi, I have been passed by fellow cyclist cycling behind trucks. As much as it is similar to holding onto the back of the track this is different since you are basically pedaling either faster or slower to keep up with the speed of the truck while watching its brake lights and indicators just in case it brakes so that you can brake too.

One time I tried this when I was on a fairly steep climb with a relatively fast truck. It was fun trying to maintain my speed up the hill and towards the end the truck was accelerating. I was so obsessed with keeping the pace on my road bike till I passed the place I was to branch off the highway by like 3 kilometres. When I narrated this to a friend a fellow cyclists he laughed at how I had managed to cycle at 40 kph for over 30 kms. Though I didn't feel the strain immediately but there was an effect later and I had to keep practicing daily to remain fit though these days I just do 25 kph.

But my friend warned me that if I was going far and the truck accelerated faster and left me behind or it branched off too soon than my destination I would be exhausted drastically battling with the wind. Anyway personally I feel like I can cycle behind a truck as a way to train. I don't know what others here on this platform would advice me on this.


texts: Does anyone have experience with tires for these rims? I've been looking at tubulars, and many of them (especially track versions) are listed as being 27x3/4 or 27x1, as opposed to 700x19 and 700x22. Specifically, I'm looking at picking up a pair of Continental Tempos but am unsure if the sizing is correct. Is this simply a case of labeling inconsistency, or will the tires not fit my rims?


texts: Align Alfine 11 when the bolt does not go far enough?

texts:
I recently got a new bike (Cube Travel SLT, with belt and Alfine 11).

The hub is not aligned. Looking at the manual, for instance at http://www.koga-signature.com/docs/Maintenance-Manual.pdf (bottom left of page before last) it says to shift down from 11 to 6, then align the yellow dots with the cable adjustment bolt.

Well, the bolt does not go far enough. I can align very precisely when in gear 7, but that's not the point. When I ride, I feel the hub skipping around gear 6-7 and I guess that's the reason.

How can I align the hub when the bolt does not go far enough?


texts:
I have a 2018 Trek Domane SL6 Disc that I've put ~2500km on. I purchased an R8000 dual Stages power meter (Left and Right units) and fitted it onto my bike (following all the steps outlined in the dealers manual, and on many youtube videos). I still have lots of life left in my chainrings, so I swapped put my old chainrings on my new right crankarm. Since then I have been getting a creak when I put a decent amount of power into the pedals. My troubleshooting steps have been as follows (with the creak remaining after each one but the last):

Checked the torque on the chainring bolts (installed to 14Nm)
Cleaned the hell out of the drivetrain re-lubed
Had the LBS replace the bottom bracket and re-install the cranks
Checked the torque on seatpost (and then cleaned the seatpost, re-applied friction paste, and re-torqued)
Checked the torque on the seatrails (and cleaned, applied a light grease between clamp and rails)
Removed the rear derailleur, regreased, and reinstalled.
Removed the pedals and tried riding with flat pedals.
Put the new chainrings on the power meter cranks (and then swapped back once it didn't help).
Put the old (non powermeter) left crankarm back on (with the power meter right crank arm).
Finally - I installed the old right crankarm with the old chainrings with the new left crankarm (with power) - and voila - no creak!

I then swapped the old chainrings back onto the new right crankarm and the creak returned.

Other than a manufacturing issue from Shimano, or a power meter installation issue from Stages - I can't imagine what the mechanism is that would cause a creak from a right crank arm (given the above steps).

Has anyone experienced an Ultegra R8000 right crankarm being the ultimate culprit of a creak?


texts: Is it safe to remove one front chain ring?

texts: My son bought an old road bike, we didn’t notice that one of the small bolts connecting the two front chain rings was missing and he has now twisted and broke the inner chainring. I’ve been able to remove the smaller inner chainring. Is it safe to use the bike with just the larger outer ring or does the design rely on the two rings to be connected together for strength and rigidity and therefore likely to buckle/break?


texts: What is must-have gear for mountain biking?

texts: All types of biking, mountain biking in particular: what are some must have items/gear to keep with oneself on mountain biking trips? I'm think of items such as extra inner tube, bike pump, etc...What products or items do you use? Specifics would be helpful, thanks!


texts: Food costs compared to Gasoline riding cross country USA

texts:
I was on vacation at Mesa Verde Nat park this year, I met a nice couple bicycling cross country from California, they were riding reasonably loaded Surly Big Dummy's. They were surprised at the calories burned and the cost of food on the road to keep up energy levels. They said they could do 35 miles on a very good day, averaged 20, mind you they were in South West Colorado headed to central Colorado, lots of steep climbs. They set up camp every night and cooked what they had at the time, basically living on the road toting all the gear on the back of the bikes, guitar and all, awesome guitar player by the way.

.

This brought to mind an interesting question, is it more expensive to feed yourself per mile cross country than it is to buy gasoline on a per mile basis, I know this is quite subjective and may not be easily answered due to the fact that different vehicles use fuel at different rates and gasoline and food costs are different in other countries. So lets set some reasonable parameters. Food energy cost vs gasoline costs.

USA

22 mpg car

Reasonably loaded Big Dummy's (all the gear, and a few comforts you need to make camp cross country) They had high quality lightweight camping equipment from what I could tell. Max cargo capacity including rider is 400lbs on the Big Dummy.

LA California to Denver, scenic routes.

Food costs: are higher due to inconvenient places to shop and limited carrying capacity and food spoilage issues.

Has anyone ever done a study on this subject or kept track on a long bike trip cross country?


texts: How do airlines calculate the cost of a Brompton?

texts:
How do airlines calculate what to charge for a Brompton in a bag as checked luggage?

I’m flying on Iberia and from their website it looks like they will charge me US$75 to take it from BOS to BCN, but the text is not completely clear.

I wrote to them asking, providing weight and measurement, but they did not respond.

Do they charge based on the weight and size of the bag — as with other types of luggage? Or is the fee based on my declaring it to be a “bicycle” regardless of whether it might be small and light enough to be regular luggage?

Notes:

I will have it in a Radical Design Chubby, which is slightly bigger than the B-bag.

NOTE: This is about costs, NOT about protecting the bike.


texts: Freezing headset cups to ease installation - does this actually work?

texts:
Sometimes it can be a tight fit installing a headset cup / race. Bike forums are full of people saying putting the cup in the freezer helps installation based on their anecdotal, uncontrolled experiments. Internet forums are also full of people saying it doesn't help at all, or you need to use dry ice or something else.

Aside from everyone's personal anecdotes, or what someone on the internet said one time, is there any evidence that freezing headset cups makes them easier to install? Does freezing them really shrink them sufficiently to make a difference?


texts: Trouble with tension adjuster screws on 2012 Kona Unit

texts:
Here is the drive side screw on my 2012 Kona Unit:

The problem is the screw is very difficult to move and adjust tension.

It's so bad that I stripped the hex head used to adjust the tension, although it may be hard to tell in the photo.

Fortunately, I figured out a workaround to get the screw moving again:

I can snug these nuts together with a couple wrenches, and then wrench one of them to move the desired direction.

It appears that something is going on with the threading. After the screw moves through the frame, the threading on the screw looks different, it is sort of 'flatter'. I could not capture a good photo of this.

My question is, what to do next to fix the problem of the hard-to-adjust screw? I would like to replace the screw itself, at the very least because the hex head is stripped, but also because the threading on the screw could be the problem, or maybe the screw is bent? I just hope it is not the threading on the frame that is causing trouble. Basically, I just need one of the adjuster screws from this:
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/kona-cmphcc-derailleur-hanger/84435.html
But not the entire hanger assembly. Any ideas where to go to find something? Should I try the hardware store?


texts: Does any rental car company offer bike racks?

texts: We are hoping to take a self guided trip in Wisconsin.  We would like to rent bikes there, but can't find a rental car with a bike rack available.  Any ideas?


texts: For a complete beginner, what bike would you recommend?

texts: I live in a tiny apartment on the 4th floor, narrow stairs and no elevator.  I'm looking to buy a bike, and planning to put in 50-60 miles a week at least.  Could you recommend a bike in the 300-350$ range?  It would be better if it is a foldable bike


texts:
I got a bicycle with a dropper post. As you know, there is currently a bicycle shortage, which is why I ended up getting it online instead of in a local shop (none of which had in stock what I was looking for).
The seatpost feels a bit too high when fully extended. I am looking for advice so I could determine if it is really too high for me, or if it is just a question of getting used to. I have no prior experience with dropper posts.

With full extension, I can pedal just fine, and I don't believe my hips are rocking (which is the guideline I heard cited when determining the correct saddle height). But it also feels like the seat is about as high as it could comfortably go. Furthermore, when getting off the bike, my toes can barely touch the ground, which does not feel safe. (This could be in part because the bottom bracket is simply higher than on my old bike.) If I push the seat down by a centimetre or so, pedalling is still very comfortable (the saddle is definitely not too low), but I feel more comfortable, the saddle no longer feels "hard" under my bum, and I feel much safer as I can reach the ground more easily when getting off the bike. Oh, the difference 1 cm can make!
My questions:

Is this dropper post suitable for me, or will it cause problems in the long run?
Is it practical to simply not use the full extension?
Is the travel of the dropper post adjustable? It is a KS Lev Integra. I assume not.
Is there any other hack I could do to improve on the situation? A new, less tall saddle perhaps? Thicker pedals? I made the mistake that the pedals I ordered (which have not arrived yet) are thinner than what I am currently using. They are 13 mm thick, while my current ones are 18 mm thick. I worry that thinner pedals will exacerbate the problem.

After googling a bit, I found many stories of dropper posts being too long. The usual advice is to replace them. The reason why I am still asking this question here is that my case appears to be borderline. I should note that I have only had the chance to use the bicycle a little bit so far, so perhaps I simply need to get used to it.


texts:
My existing saddle is over 8 years old and what used to be a fairly comfortable saddle has me shifting around quite a bit these days.

I am considering a leather sling saddle similar to the one made by a company with a name that starts with BR and ends with ooks.  I live in Oregon and ride all winter long in the rain on muddy abandoned logging roads.  I have fenders installed.  My current saddle still gets wet.

Would anyone happen to have experience with a similar situation and could they share how the leather held up or ways they protected the leather material?


texts: Strange noise coming from bottom bracket/crank

texts:
I've just bought a Trek 6300 and I'm getting a strange creaking coming from the crank/bottom bracket when I'm stand pedalling. It only happens when I'm stand pedalling, and only what appears to be on my right hand side.  It's like a triple click on each downward motion on the right pedal.  But again, only when stand pedaling?

Any ideas?

I didn't buy the bike brand new from a shop, I bought it off of one a friend of a friend who used it for a charity ride in January and hasn't used it since, hence he sold it.  I just find it odd that the noise only happens on the right hand side.  Could it be that the chain is catching the front derailer?  I'm still relatively new to mountain bikes.


texts:
After riding about 800m downhill, I got this:

BTW, this is TriAce Wheelset for Dahon Mu Ex 2014. Do you think this is safe to ride? Can I repair this?


texts: Sram Eagle NX Rear Derailleur not reacting to cable tension

texts:
Have had a SRAM NX Eagle rear derailleur (bike is a 1x) on my YT Jeffsy for about a year and a half. For about the first year, worked awesome, indexed the gears a few times and all was good. Last half a year its been a disaster.
I can't seem to get it shifting properly in either direction. I replaced the shifter cable AND housing (i know some people will just replace then shifter cable) and still having issues. What i've diagnosed is that it will shift up (or into high gears) and then the derailleur will get "stuck" when trying to shift back down to low gears. I can see the cable going slack and removing tension (i'll shift down ~3 gears) but the rear derailleur won't move from the highest gear. If i lightly move the rear derailleur back and forth it will overcome whatever is causing it to stick and then shift down into the intended 3 gears down all at once. Usually if i get up to 5 gears or so it will start shifting down without me touching it. Any ideas?


texts: Metallic vibration sound while cornering - hybrid/CX tires

texts:
I ride a Surly Cross Check with stock everything. When I take a corner quickly on asphalt, I hear what sounds like metal vibrating, seemingly coming from the area of my front wheel. I'm used to hearing buzzing from knobby mountain bike tires in the same situations, but this sounds higher-pitched and "harder."

Have you had the same experience? Do you think the sound is from tire nubs, or something else?


texts: Brand new bike, motor conversion, crank moves when the wheel moves

texts:
I have a brand new bike and I am installing a Skyhawk motor.

I installed the rear sprocket using a pineapple hub. I am not sure how this could have tightened anything unless it happened while reinstalling onto the bike,  maybe overtightened one of the nuts or something.

In any case, what can I try before having to save and then spend another $40.00 to get to the bike shop and back? I am on a pension and it took me almost 2 years to save enough money to buy this stuff. Can anyone help?


texts: I buy and sell used bikes some have been repainted how can I find manufacturer if there are no identifying marks

texts: Need help identifying frames to make sure make model and possibly year


texts: Is threadless a noticeable difference from threaded headset setups?

texts:
I'm considering replacing my threaded aluminum forks, threaded headset, steel threaded stem and steel handlebars with threadless carbon forks, threadless headset and integrated carbon stem and handlebars; a large reduction in weight on my 700c road bike.

Aside from weight, what performance differences (if anything) should I notice or expect from the 1.0" threaded (guess) / 1 1/8" threadless headset change? Smoother turning? Or had the change in the industry been motivated on weight/production considerations?

One thing that I miss from the threaded setups is that the stem and forks can be engaged in a much stronger connection, such that it would take way more force to make them move independently. On my threadless setups, I can still force the handlebars to turn independent of the wheel, as the stem bolts strip out before they would provide as much clamping force as a threaded setup.


texts:
I picked a girl's mountain bike out of a dumpster . It looks very excellent except for a chain that is so rusted that each link needs to worked free.

Name is Techno Lite , 26" wheels, 15 speed Shimano, center pull brakes Lee Chi.

I know it is not the caliber of bike that most posters here have, but I have a 11 year old granddaughter that could ride it ; a "starter" bicycle to see if it is something she would be interested in. My guess is some one rode on a salt water beach then put it in a garage for years without rinsing it; the chain was essentially solid.

Question: Should I oil the chain and work it free or buy a new chain ?


texts:
I saw a question about velomobiles and recumbent bikes and I was wondering if they were street legal in the UK?

Can you ride one on a cycle path or would you have to stick to roads?


texts: Got a new frameset, don't know why I need this split ring collar?

texts:
I can work out all the bits of the semi integrated headset, the star fangled nut for the steerer, but I can't see why I need this?

It has similar diameter to the steerer tube, is it a spacer? I don't get it! :/


texts:
Let's play "identify the missing part"!

While riding, something which holds the fender to the frame between the chainstays and just behind the bottom bracket fell off:

Please help me make my bike stop making horrible rattling noises.


texts:
so I accidentally screwed the wrong side pedal into my left hand crankarm on my Giant Defy 3 2014, and I have been looking to buy a replacement part myself and get a mechanic to install it.

I am wondering what would be compatible with the original Sora groupset components? I haven't been able to find just a crankarm, so I am looking to buy a crankset.

I can get a Shimano Sora Double 3550 9 Speed Chainset for 40GBP.

Would other 9 speed cranksets work?

What other left hand crankarms would be compatible?

Thanks.


texts: I broke a couple of spokes on my wheel, now it's all bent, how can I align it back again? What kind of tools do I need to do a good job?


texts: Why fit a usb on my ebike battery when not even connected

texts:
Id like to ask if anyone else has a viking gravity ebike with a internal frame battery pack which has a usb port included. Thing is i found out that it wasn't working even though its a brand new bicycle., So i investigated and uncovered it wasnt wired up at all in side the battery pack there wasn't.any adapter /wires even available for this feature to get connected up.Is this a flaw on my bike or has anyone else noticed this problem???
As why go through the process to fit something that is not going to be connected up to work? I'd like to see /hear any views as surely this is a massive waste of money on the manufacturers behalf and also annoying to the customers.


texts: On my Specialized Como electric bicycle, the Shimano display is showing LO EAT. What does this error code mean? I tried turning the bike off and back on again but the error display doesn't go away.


texts: Change light switch on Supernova E3 Pure (Specialized AWOL Evo)

texts:
I bought a second hand Specialized AWOL Evo a while ago. I have problems with my wrist so I bought it as a last try on dropped bars with the backup plan to change the bars to a flat bar or maybe a really flared dropped bar. Maybe in combination with a Velo Orange Cigne stem.

What I didn't realize was that it's not just to change the bars. The light switch is in the right side of the drop and the USB charger plug is in the top of the stem. All cables runs up and down inside the steerer tube down to the fork.

The previous owner had fiddled with the electricity so the USB plug doesn't work (I got a good discount on that) but I'm not bothered. I'll never use that anyways. He had also moved the rear light (when he removed the rear rack) cutting cables in the rear (that I have restored now since I use a rear rack). I'll rewire the front part as it's really messy rewired as well.

Here is what I would like to do but I'm not sure how. Feel free to tell me if it's just plain stupid :)

Remove the USB plug
Get a new on/of switch - installed almost anywhere but maybe just below the top tube?
What kind of switch should I buy?
Or if that's too hard just buy a new E3-light with the built in switch?

The specifications are:

Supernova E3 PURE 3 front light
Supernova E3 TAIL LIGHT 2
Supernova The plug USB charger
Shimano Dynamo DH-3D32-QR

Are there any other solutions or ideas?

Thanks a million and sorry the long question. I'll update here once I find a good solution for it.


texts: SRAM 2x10 shifter-derailleur combination

texts: I am looking to upgrade parts on my Rocky Mountain Metropolis bicycle and want to go to SRAM products.  Since I ride my bike everyday, I want the best SRAM parts.  Looking at the Red line.  That being said, I like the frame and handlebar configuration on my bike.  I need 2x10 speed shifters.  Thinking about getting the SRAM SL-700 10 speed trigger shifters to work with the SRAM Red 10 speed front and rear deraileurs.  Will that combination work?  Is there a better option?


texts: We tow a Burley Nomad trailer behind our tandem. Love the trailer, but the hitch rattles and makes enough noise to be annoying. Grease or chain lube quiets it temporarily, but not for long. Does anyone have a solution for this?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Pros and cons panniers and messenger bags

I commute about 5 miles each way to work. I usually travel light; I don't carry much with me other than the contents of my pockets. Sometimes I need to take my laptop home for a night or a weekend, to be able to get some work done or be on call. And sometimes on weekends I run errands on my bike, and need to pick something up at the store.

There are several options for carrying things on my bike. I've tried my backpack, but that usually leaves my back covered in sweat when I get to work or get home. I've tried my laptop case, which has a shoulder strap, but that hangs down a little too low so it sometimes interferes with me getting back up in my saddle, and it sometimes slides around to my side so I need to adjust it while riding. Some other options would be a rack and panniers, a front basket, or a messenger bag.

Which will work best for somewhat flexible storage needs, be able to carry a laptop safely, and not add too much weight when I want to ride light and not carry anything with me?


texts:
I have recently acquired a Brompton, which came with this zefal pump, which doesn't clip onto the frame:

The rear frame on my Brompton doesn't appear to have the cage-like mounts that new models have. The mountings that it does have are shown below. Are these intended for a pump, and if so, is there a specific pump that attached so these?


texts:
In a comment to an answer about helmet replacement mention was made of a mirror and perhaps suggesting that a helmet was merely a good place to mount a mirror. I, hopefully humorously, suggested that a mirror user might not have much inside to need protection of a helmet ...

As someone who does a lot of miles and most of them in town, where seeing behind you is useful, I've never even considered a mirror. My preconception is that any mirror small enough to not be obtrusive or distracting would not be large enough to provide a decent view behind and, besides, I can look over my shoulder periodically and get a decent grasp for free.

So what am I not seeing; why should I use a mirror?


texts: What benefits in bikes like "trek", "cannondale", over "merida" and such?

texts:
There are more expensive marks like "Trek", "Cannondale", "Specialized" and cheaper ones like "Merida", "Norco" and many others.
What are the benefits of the expensive ones, if say the components like frame material, derailleurs, brakes, BB, cassettes, rims, tires are the same?


texts: When I press on pedal, intermittent loss of power

texts:
Recently, when I cycled my bike the pedals would jump when I pushed down on them. I brought it to a shop who replaced the cassette, the chain, the two crank arms and probably the crankset. I have also had the rear gears replaced.

All great for about 15k, till the pedals started to jump again, when I pushed down. Thought it was sth to do with freewheeling/backpedalling when coming up to lights (as is particuarly bad when I stop/start) but that is not always the case. Also, the pedals spin when I push the bike forward - again, this is intermittent.

Have had it into the shop about 5 times, to no avail. Am lost. Bike is only about 7 years old.
Anyone able to help please?!?!!


texts: Is there a type of bottle cage that doesn't scratch bottles?

texts: I have bottle cages similar to these ones and I don't like that my bottles get scratched after a while. Will this also happen with plastic or carbon fiber cages? I don't like the idea of having to buy new bottles every time they look all scratched. Any tips will be appreciated.


texts:
After numerous attempts to ride my cruiser bike without falling, I have ordered a set of "training wheels" for my bike.  Yes, I took the pedals off and practiced on grass and all that, but just could not get the hang of it.  The very last time I had training wheels on a bike, I was 7 years old, so this was not an easy decision for me. I am 59.

My question is this: How will I be able to tell when I no longer need the training wheels?  When I was a kid, the training wheels actually lifted off the ground after awhile, indicating that I wasn't even dependent on them (so my parents took them off).  I became quite proficient at riding and hope to be again, so this is important to me.  Any ideas?

Please do not write in and tell me not to install the wheels - I agonized over this so long, and am only doing it as a last resort.  Please just advise based on the assumption that these wheels are going on the bike.  Thanks.


texts: How to make a derailleur work in opposite directions?

texts:
I am making a bike for a school project that can switch between upright and pseudo-prone position. It has two sets of crank assembly; one on one side of the rear gear set and one on the other; the task is to be able to switch positions.
However, the problem is that when you use drive train for one position, it works fine and the derailleur can change gears easily. But the same can't be done for the other position because the derailleur only works in one direction.
One potential solution is to fix one gear(the biggest or the smallest) for one position and switch the other gears for the other position.

Could someone please help me fix it such that all the gears can be used in both positions?

Here's a picture of the bike's design to explain:


texts: walkable clipless pedal shoe to replace normal shoe?

texts:
I have a touring bike which I use almost exclusively for commuting.  I am thinking about getting a clipless pedal with walkable shoes.  At the same time, my normal shoes which I wear when not cycling need to be replaced, and am thinking that to save money and avoid the need for carrying extra shoes back and forth, instead of buying two shoes I would like to buy a shoe that can both be used as a normal shoe as well as for cycling.

While I see that some clipless pedal shoes are "walkable" I don't see much if any data regarding wearing it as a normal shoe all the time.  Preferably I would like to get about the same amount of wear as a regular shoe out of it.   Just for normal everyday walking around the office, out to lunch, and that sort of thing.

Is there some specific model recommendations or something specific in terms of feature I can look for, or is using the same shoe for both things out of the question?  I think it will be required - and I'm definitely open to - using MTB shoes on a road bike (as I think the increased pedaling efficiency will outweigh the weight drawbacks considering my usage pattern), but if it can't be done I would prefer to not get clipless and just buy some inexpensive shoes and continue to use pedal clips.


texts:
Just want some opinion. I have a MTB bike, but I want to make it lighter. So here are some of my thoughts currently on what I think I should change:

700c rims and tires
Cantilever brakes
Rigid fork

The details of the bike are as below:

Disc brakes
26er wheels with road slick
Suspension fork

Additional details:

Bike frame weighs 11kg with suspension fork without wheels
Current wheel set (rim and tire) weigh 2kg
7x3 speed
Flat handlebar

Other related questions:

Should I change the gearing of the bike into that of a road (7x2 speed)?
Should the 700c rims able to withstand 10-11kg of frame? (note that the rider is 75kg)
The rear end of the bike does not seem to have a place to mount cantilever brakes, but has two small holes that can somewhat screw in something on each side the frame. What is it actually for?

Thanks for sharing your opinion and information.


texts: Complete cycling novice here so apologies if this is a stupid question. I went over a bump whilst cycling and knocked my chain off. I think in the process of trying to fix it I must’ve knocked the derailleur out of place because it’s now at such an angle, when it’s in gear 1 it’s pressing against the wheel. When rotating the pedals the chain is now making a continuous clicking noise too. Not sure how to go about fixing it so any advice would be hugely appreciated.


texts:
Today i put my bike on my tacx home trainer.

I heard a lot of ticking on my chain, so after viewing my setup i recognized that my upper pulley is too close to my chain when it's on the smallest cog on the front and the smallest cog on the back.

I know this is setup is not most ideal (cross chaining), but i'm concerning and never seen before that my chain is going aginst the upper pulley.

Does anyone has some tips?


texts:
The crank arm on my Decathlon Triban 520 became loose during a cycle. On inspection the crank arm bolt is missing. What bolt do I need as a replacement? (Or how can I figure it out?)

The manufacturer indicates the groupset is Sora R3000, I don't know if this includes the bottom bracket though. The external/internal diameters of that threaded portion are 24mm/19mm


texts: How do I re-insert a chain pin that has been pushed completely out?

texts: While breaking the chain, I pushed the pin too far and pushed it out completely. Now the chain is too short. How do I re-insert this pin, or should I look for other options.


texts: Compatible seatpost for Brooks C13 saddle with 7x9 oval carbon rails?

texts:
I just purchased a Brooks C13 saddle (7x9 oval carbon rails, the more recent version with no tape) and was hoping it would fit on my existing post (2016 Jamis Coda Sport - it's a top/bottom clamp with a single bolt) but found that the rails don't align well, so I think I need a different post.
Does anyone have any experience pairing this saddle with a Ritchey comp 2-bolt seatpost? It says it is "compatible with multiple rail types" and boasts good contact area with the saddle, which I believe is what I'm looking for. Or could anyone recommend a different seatpost option that they've paired with the Brooks C13? I'm ideally looking for a lower cost solution.
Also, this is my first time installing a carbon rail saddle and understand that this may need greater sensitivity - is it critical that I invest in a torque wrench to do this properly?


texts: What map / navigation / bike direction apps are available for the iphone for commuting / urban cycling

texts:
I'm switching from an android phone to an iphone soon. I use the google maps bike directions all the time to figure out how to get to friend's houses, restaurants, bars and navigating around a new city, usually with no pre-planning on a computer.

On my droid, I just bring up google maps, type in an address, and get bike directions.  However, the iphone doesn't have bike directions on the maps app.  What is a good native app alternative for the iphone?

I'm not trying to track my rides. Just trying to figure out how to get from A to B.

Update:
It does seem that the cycling layer and bike directions are serviceable in a pinch on the google maps website when viewed on the iPhone or android device, but a native app would be more desirable.

Edit: June 2014 : Google Maps on the iPhone does support bicycle routes.


texts: What is the difference between hub-cone type rear hubs?

texts:
Assume a rear hub that consist of an axle, hub, cones, loose bearings, lock-nut, with hub space = 135mm, with bolt-on disc brake

Example hubs

Hub 1: Shimano XT  FH-M756 Cost Eur40

Hub 2: Cost Eur23

It seems both hubs are based on the same principle (same tools required to assemble them). But there is a price difference. And the one is branded (Shimano).

Questions

Between 2 manufacturers of such hubs, would there be a significant difference in the quality between the individual parts (axles, hub, cone, bearings, lock-nuts)?
Would the manufacturer of the more expensive hub, produce a stronger axle, more spherical bearings or more smoothly polished cones and hubs than the cheaper manufacturer?
Or are these parts all machined to the same standard quality and the Eur17 difference is for owning the Shimano brand?

I find it hard to believe that for such a standard hub there is much difference in quality.


texts: How to calculate elevation gain for a route not recommended (by Google) for cycling

texts:
I have a need to figure out elevation gain on a (United States) freeway (to compare options) to plan a cycling route. Google will NOT allow me to drag the points into the freeway route if cycling is the transportation method. If I switch it to a driving route, Google will not give elevation gain stats.

It appears that if a route is not recommended for cycling, Google will not let you route it (which I realize could be hazardous otherwise). IMO, it should only give a warning and let users make their desired route.

Anyhow, is there a way out there to get elevation gain stats on road/routes not recommended for cycling?

After some thought I feel strongly that this question is in the correct context here. True it’s a question also about software, but I doubt the software user base has as much to offer it as cyclists do.

Whether or not it’s legal or safe is a bit irrelevant. Google’s safety and legal limitations are just examples of why I might need such a feature. And we know that software, the law, and road and highway planning aren’t perfect. For the purpose of just finding out if such a feature exists somewhere on this planet, we’ll say I’m using my best judgements about safety, and would not do something I felt was a risk for myself or others. Safety is another primary goal in using our own judgement for considering all possible routes. The law may in some cases be wrong, or many not regard changing conditions such as weather or road construction, and direct us through a more dangerous route. Also, say we’re out on the road and there’s some sort of emergency; elevation may become a critical consideration in finding the best way home.


texts:
I really enjoy cycling, but haven't been doing much lately.  My wife also enjoys cycling, but had a bad crash a couple years ago on her fast road bike and now will only ride her old (really slow) touring bike.  We're not sure why she crashed, she doesn't remember much of it, and I was ahead of her at the time.  She's concerned that it might be a balance problem, and has never been very comfortable with her road bike.

I was thinking that a tandem might be the way to go.  Thought being that it would be more stable, and she wouldn't have to be responsible for steering.  It would also keep us together while riding (her maximum speed right now is lower than my minimum speed, I end up doing lots of 360s in the middle of the road to let her catch up).

Difficulty being transporting it around for group rides.  We have 3 small cars (MR2, Celica, and Eclipse).  One is a two seater that I have a regular bike rack that fits, the other two are hatchbacks (neither has much space in the back, one of them can fit her road bike, but only if she takes the front wheel off).  Are there any tandems that "fold up" to fit on a standard bike rack?  I just don't see roof racks as being an option as the cars are so small.

Any other ideas that I've missed?  I don't think she'd go for the balance wheels on her bike (and it still wouldn't cover all the speed difference issue).


texts: In the UK, is there any (legal or similar) limit on bike+trailer length?

texts:
With a couple of miles of quiet lanes, and around 10 miles of fairly straight bike path that takes me right to a river I'd like to go kayaking in.  I've got a trailer that my daughter is too tall for and which I could modify.  So I wondered about towing my kayak by bike.  The boat in question is already 2.3m long; when behind my hybrid it would mean a vehicle of over 4m.  This is only as long as a normal car. I have to admit, this is more for curiosity than something I'm likely to do, as there are awkward bits of bike path even for a normal-sized trailer

We've already discussed the practicality of towing boats behind bikes, this question is specifically about whether it's permissible (i.e. not forbidden either by law or by "...should..." clauses in the Highway Code).  I'm interested in the UK situation; answers for other jurisdictions won't get accepted but should get upvotes from me


texts:
I bought a second-hand Chevrolet folding mountain bike with 26" wheels

I have had it a few days and the front shocks are making noise when they absorb.  The Previous Owner said its normal.

Today I opened the shock at a repairing shop.  There was no oil inside - it was dry.  What should I do?

And where is the position of a dumper in shocks?


texts: How do I lower the saddle on a Scirocco bicycle?

texts: I've acquired a second-hand ladies' Scirocco Elegance 21 speed bicycle.  I need to lower the saddle but can't quite see how it can be done.


texts:
my gears are not shifting well. i can only shift from 1st to 2nd...i don't know what is the problem
i have shimano revoshift gear enter image description here
here are some images


texts:
I just bought a 2nd hand salsa El Mariachi frame, that I will start to build this week.
Unfortunately when I received it I realized that the previous owner probably has ridden it with the seatpost too high or inserted only a few cm and I noticed that the top of seat tube is deformed, have a look at the picture.
Do you think it is safe to ride? or might break?
suggestions?

thanks for your input


texts: Should I grease a carbon fiber seat post?

texts:
I was reading a recent question when I saw this answer:

  You should absolutely grease your
  seatpost (unless it is carbon fiber).

Why should I NOT grease a carbon fiber seat post?


texts: I have new flat bars and grips. What's the easiest way to slide the grips onto the bars?


texts: Is my interval training routine effective for mountain bike training?

texts:
During these winter months I am currently attending the gym 3 times a week. On each of the days I start my training on an exercise bike with the following:

5 minute warm up
30 minutes, 1 minute hard, 1 minute recovery
5 minute warm down

I am using a specific interval training setting on the bike. I preset the training to level 15, which is a high resistance and as much as I can take.

Hard is a cadence of between 80-90rpm high resistance. Recovery is a cadence of 60prm and the resistance backs off considerably, I imagine to approximately level 7.

My heart rate towards the end of the session reaches 170–190bpm, and I am working flat-out. I turn 30 in March, am 5' 8" and weigh approx 168lbs.

Does this training routine seem sensible for building strength and speed on the mountain? Should I be changing up the training with other types of bike training?

It is also worth noting that after the interval training I perform free weight strength training too.


texts:
I am out to purchase a (dedicated) GPS device for the outlined below use cases. Trouble is, I have never owned a GPS-enabled device. Furthermore, general articles on "how to purchase sports GPS" seem to vague. What features am I supposed to value most? What "type" of device do I need?

Use cases:

Ski trekking at about 2000m elevation, up to a week without electricity. I use a map, but if a (heavy) fog falls, I could be depending on the device for up to 2-3 days straight.
Bicycle trekking on rough mountain paths, up to two weeks without electricity. Again, I would carry a map, but when in doubt would need the GPS so as not go off path and waste half a day wandering around.


texts: Aero bars are a pain in the neck - are there strengthening exercises?

texts:
I've got a set of aero bars on my tourer, and now I've got the hang of them I rather like them, especially when solo and into headwinds or trying to put some distance behind me on a long straight.

A couple of weeks ago I did a rather long ride with a gentle headwind on a fast road at the beginning, so started out by using them rather a lot, and I made good use of them later too. By a rough estimate I used then for over 100km in a day, likely much more. But for a few days afterwards I had real neck ache (DOMS) in the muscles that hold my head up - I'm only a touch lower than in the drops but it seems to make a difference (my bars aren't that low to start with - the forearm pads are ~7 cm below the saddle and they don't stand very high above the handlebar).  Yesterday's shorter but still respectable ride wasn't conducive to so much continuous use, but I could still feel those muscles getting tired - no aches today though.

While I try to get some use out of them as often as possible, I'm not happy on them in a group, and my longest regular solo ride is only 30km. So are there strengthening exercises that can be done off the bike? Perhaps something from the long time trial people.


texts: Why are aero bars usually disallowed in gran fondos?

texts:
Why are aero bars usually disallowed in Gran Fondos (cyclosportive events)?

I'm just curious.  I would think it would be a useful piece of equipment when riding 100 miles.


texts: Which pulley is which on my Shimano STX RC derailleur?

texts:
I disassembled my rear derailleur to clean it; when I removed the sprockets they basically looked the same; both jet black and caked with all sorts of black grease-like-stuff.  I figured they were the same so didn't pay attention.  However, after a bit of cleaning they turned out to be different.

One has a metal bushing, says Centeron G-Pulley, and seems a bit beefier.  Which is the top/guide/jockey pulley, which is the bottom/idler?


texts:
If I am driving in the 5th gear, can I know what is my velocity?

Let's assume I am on a perfectly flat surface and moving monotonously.


texts: Adjustment necessary for stationary trainer

texts:
I am looking at purchasing a stationary trainer that will be shared with my wife and would prefer to do a wheel off trainer.

Both of our bikes have a 11-28T cassette.

So, theoretically, if the wheel of trainer has the same cassette the derailleurs will not require adjustment.   Is my thinking correct?

One of the bike maintenance things I have not mastered is derailleur adjustment.


texts: Is a "universal" rotor compatible with all types of disc pads?

texts: What is a "universal" disc rotor? One that is compatible with all types of brake pads?


texts: suggestions of affordable clothes for beginner rides?

texts:
I am new to riding.  I have done some research, and found out there are plenty of guides telling people how to pick up cycling gear.

But I want suggestions for affordable, good quality clothes. I need advice from someone who actually bought the clothes. I don't need expensive cycling clothes like alpha, as I only ride once per week.  Any tips for beginners are welcome.

I need suggestions for both summer and winter. I am a man. I've been thinking about around 20 miles at the beginning.


texts:
My 9 year old son has a Trek 220 mountain bike and really wants to get clipless pedals because he tried a mountain bike race and is doing a cyclocross clinic that he loves.

Problem is that he rides his bike to school and around the neighborhood so needs regular pedals too.

What is the best option for him?

A clipless pedal that is a flat pedal on one side for normal shoes,
Clip less pedals with adapters to make them into regular pedals like fly pedals or,
Just change out his flat pedals to clip less when he wants to (although I'm worried we would be doing that a lot).


texts:
I have a small cache of the now-discontinued Quickex Quicker Pro mini pumps. They have 105 cm3 stroke volume, and 5 kgf force required for 7 bar pressure. In about 100 strokes, I reach 7 bar on 28mm 700C tires. The reason for these extraordinary specs is that the pump has a multi chamber double action design: it pumps even on the outstroke. I am not aware of any other pump with comparable specs. Typical mini pumps require 200-300 strokes for 7 bar, and a large pump such as Silca Impero requires 20 kgf force for 7 bar pressure.
I'm worried that the pumps in the small cache could fail over time due to natural degradation of materials. I store the pumps indoors shielded from sunlight. If all of the pumps in the cache fail due to natural degradation of materials, I'm left with no working pump and no possibility to purchase a pump having similar specs, because no other mini pump manufacturer has realized how to build a mini pump that pumps a tire quickly in few strokes with little force.
Is my worry justified? Can a pump that is not being actively used fail?
Due to their complex construction, it may not be feasible to disassemble and repair a failed pump.


texts: Putting smaller wheels on a larger frame

texts: I have a bmx bike that support 24 inch wheels, is their anyway I can move down to 20 inch?


texts: Shimano Tourney (SL-RS36) 3 speed indexing wrong

texts:
2, 3 transfer correctly

1 - not correctly.

transfer switches normally. But the index does not become 1 in the box.I do not even remember how it happened. The effort did not make.
How can I fix it?

add


texts:
I have an english-thread, octalink Shimano bottom bracket, and a new frame. The frame has been faced before painting.

I am not sure the BB is compatible with the frame.

When trying to install the BB, I greased the thread, screwed in the driver-side cup and tightened it. I do not have dynamometric wrench, so I just torqued hard, but not as hard as not to be able to undo it. Then repeated for the non-drive side.

The bearings had became stuck - only with great force could one spin the axis. I loosened both cups about one revolution each, until the axis began moving freely. Now both cups have some threaded surface visible. The cups are not tight at all.

Are stuck bearings when over-tightening the cups normal? The free cup (non-drive side) looks like it can go all the way inside the frame. Have I set my BB correctly?

UPDATE:
This is my exact BB. I have identified the problem. The non-drive side cup presses against the white seal. The seal is stuck to the axis (which I think it should be), and sandwiching it between the cup and the BB body fixes it's movable flange causes excessive friction.

I am leaving the installation as described above. Will ride it a couple of hundred kilometres and report if any problems occur.


texts: Shimano Sora 3500 (3x9) and Alivio front derailleur

texts:
Please help rebuild my bike :)
I have Scott Sub 30 2011 http://www.evanscycles.com/products/scott/sub-30-2011-hybrid-bike-ec025449 and right now I would like to change shifters to Shimano Sora 3500 (3x9).

I'm wondering - these shifters will work with front derailleur and crank?

Crank: Alivio FC-M430-8

Chainrings: 48 × 36 × 26 T

And front derailleur: Shimano Alivio FD-M430

Thank you in advance for your help!


texts: How to reduce vibrations to handlebars on aluminium road bike

texts:
Question: How can I reduce the vibrations to the handlebars on an all-aluminium road bike?   Either to the rider's hands or to the camera, or both.

I have been riding an all-alloy road bike for the last couple months, and while its so much faster than the MTB its terribly tiring.

I've suspected that its a harsh ride because there are lots of buzzes and rattles that come and go with different road surfaces.

A recent night ride demonstrated the problem in pictures.... I have a gopro on the stem and here are some comparison shots.

Example Smooth Here's some tarmac which is less than a couple months old.  Its really nice on which to ride:

Example Buzzy Here are two stills cropped to show lights at night.  The road is chip-seal which is quite common locally.

A video at night time was no good, but here's a short clip showing the buzz in sunlight.

Hand interface  I've tried

Padded Cycling gloves - helped a little with the hands, but they were cold.  I've been wearing my full hand cycling gloves with no padding.
Hand positions - I'm 99% on the hoods, either near the bend or up on the brake hoods.  I never use the drops, they're out of reach, and the tops only occasionally.  On a long ride I might put hands on top of the brakes for some variety ("high hoods")
Bar tape - I've fitted some bar tape which is labelled as "cork" but was really a diamond-shape of firm foam.  This helped, but the hand position is now unnaturally squishy.

Yet to try:

A shorter stem, the old one is 120mm long.  Finding one is difficult because its an odd sized quill stem.  Still searching.
A replacement front fork of steel or carbon ?  Seems like an expensive solution for an older bike.
Lower tyre pressure helps, but I'm over 100 KG so I can't really go lower than 100 PSI on 25mm tyres.
Replacement bars ?  Would carbon bars be any better at damping the vibrations?
Other suggestions?

Camera mount  I've got one of these on my stem.  There's a layer of dense foam underneath which helps a little.

There are other mounts like this one, but they have no vibration take-up mechanism, so I'm leery about dropping money on them.

Searching web sites like instructables.com has returned steadicam-type mounts for hand usage, but not for biking.

Summary: How to reduce the road buzz that is transmitted through the fork/frame/stem and the handlebars?