texts: Are there sirens/horns that are like a car horn?

texts:
I am going to start commuting on my bike, but I often use busy roads that are not cycle friendly and cyclists are not often noticed. I need a horn to be noticed. (and to vent my anger without losing my voice!! - I'm joking here. One of the only highway code rules I remember is "DO NOT sound your horn aggressively". If only car drivers knew that one!)

Is there any horn out there that is battery powered but does not sound like an alarm system, or has more than one sound? I just want to press it and have a sound like a car horn.

Are there any cheap ones out there that do this (I do not mind buying from China).


texts:
I want to be able to do a track stand. I can almost come to a halt on my bike without taking my shoes out the cleats - but not quite.

In theory, on a fixed wheel it should be easier, but I can't quite manage to maintain position, I always find myself rolling forward.

So I'm looking for snippets of advice, without being able to see what I'm doing wrong, can anyone tell me something to do right so as to perform a decent track stand; on either a free or a fixed hub, advice for either is fine.

What's your secret?

I promise that I'll go out and practice somewhere quiet ...


texts: My bike has this red reflective light right below the seat (I don't know its name), and I'm thinking of buying a seat bag such as this one. Won't the light be covered? Isn't this potentially dangerous? How does one fix it normally?


texts: Advantages / disadvantages of freecoaster and cassette hubs

texts:
I've been reading a lot over the past few days about BMX, and last night I watched a few videos like this one. I have been seeing the words "freecoaster" and "cassette" around a lot, and I was curious what they were, so I looked them up - freecoaster does not require pedaling to go backwards, while a cassette hub does. In that video (around 3:08) I assumed that they were pedaling backwards just for "style" or whatever to make it look cooler - and after reading I think it is a cassette hub he is running.

What are the advantages of a cassette/freecoaster hub, and am I right to assume that if you take your feet off of either to do a trick that they will not keep spinning (provided that you press off of the pedals evenly and don't produce a spin)?


texts:
It is a thing that I noticed even on cars it is missing: when rear lights fail, the driver does not realize it.

In bicycles it is much more worse it happens, as the cyclist's own life is more exposed.

I would like to know if someone knows about the existence of REAR lights for bicycles that give some feedback about their own failure, without the needing of
the cyclist to lift up from the bicycle.

My thanks in advance.


texts: could someone help me identify a mountain bike frame, the rear triangle of the frame has square tubing, it's a late 90s early 00s frame.


texts:
I have a giant fastroad, 2016 model, the BB is a FSA mega exo (bb30 press fit).
I think from the noise it is making that the BB is starting to wear out, I have done approx. 2000 miles in all weathers.
Reviews for this BB do not give good feedback with many people finding them failing after a short time.
Is there a more reliable bb30 BB that would be compatible with this bike?


texts: Got a new cassette and chain, freewheel not working correctly

texts:
I bought a new chain and cassette for my road bike. The bike is about 10 years old from estimation (9 speed shimano). I assumed I replaced all the parts correctly, but now whenever I stop pedaling, I feel some resistance as the free wheel is not working correctly. At slow speeds, the cassette keeps spinning when I stop pedalling, albeit with less force than the wheel. The casette is then blocked by the chain which causes the chain to skip, making a lot of noise. If I put my bike upside down and turn the pedal backwards, the rear wheel starts rotating backwards as well.

I've googled and the only suggestions I've found are about servicing the freehub part in the wheel. However, I never had a single problem with this, and the first moment I rode after replacing the chain and cassette, it started happening. Therefore it would be very coincidental if it is not related to the new casette. Any pointers?

EDIT: here are two videos I made, with the first showing that the wheel and casette are connected when the cassette is not turning or turning backwards, and the second showing the range in which I can turn the cassette.


texts:
I'm a 5'10, 300lbs rider looking to get back on a bike after many years and many pounds.

I owned a 1999 Trek 7700 Multitrack and road about 20 miles a day for many years before injuries, age and time took their toll.  I want to get back on a bike - new or used - in the $400 range.

Any suggestions?  I loved the hybrid, but I'm not sure the rims/tires can handle my current weight.  My target weight is 220, which was my weight when I used to ride daily. Initially, I'll be riding about 10 miles per day on level pavement.

I was looking at some Trek 7.x fx bikes, but am open to any make/model/year.


texts:
I am a hobby musician and would like to transport my instruments on my bike because there are just a few parking lots and it is too far to walk.

Is there a good and safe way to carry a trombone, several stands, and sheet music on a normal bike?


texts: Cylinder volume of hydraulic brakes and levers

texts:
I've been asking around for a while now but even workshop pros couldn't answer this (by citing exact figures):

How big are the brake cylinders of disk and rim brakes in terms of volume and surface area? Specifically the Shimano RS505/685, SRAM Force and Magura HS33 R (FIRM-tech).

EDIT   I intended to build a full custom solution working around some of the limitations given by the brake manufacturers.

In short, shifters from brand A on brakes of brand B. I went a different path so I'm not limited by this question any more.


texts:
I have just tried to tighten up the nuts at the end of my crank but for some reason the pedals don't work in unison and now the left and right pedals are at a 90 degree angle instead of 180 and I'm not sure what's wrong.  How could I fix it?

Think of it as instead of one pedal being at 6 o'clock and one at 12 o'clock like normal, one is at 12 o'clock and the other one is at 3 o'clock.


texts: Should one buy a used Brooks saddle that is already broken in?

texts:
I understand that Brooks saddles (and similar leather hammock/sling style saddles) break in as they are used so that they conform to the particular shape of a riders sit bones, crotch, etc., and that, famously, these saddles can become more comfortable over time. This answer was particularly helpful in explaining this process and explaining that it's important to understand that the size and design of the saddle must fit right in the first place.

Given this process of break-in, is it wise to buy a used leather hammock/sling style saddle? Is it:

A bad idea because it is already broken-in in a way that means it is irreparably shapes for the previous owners body?
A good idea because the leather is more supple and more easily bent and shaped to the new riders body?
An equally good idea because the leather will simply reshape over time?


texts: Efficient bike parking/storage that younger kids can handle?

texts:
We have a smallish 2-car garage on our house, which with both cars in it, is difficult to put all 6 of our family's bikes in as well.  My bike is typically hung from some hooks in the ceiling, and I have a hoist on the ceiling for my wife's bike.  However, I have not found an effective way to get all the kids' bikes in.  I have tried hooks such as these:

which lets them fit, but I find that the bikes fall out of them quite easily unless the bike is lifted all the way off the ground, which the kids lack the ability to do.  I thought of putting in more hoists, except that there is not enough ceiling room left to do so (without coming down on a car, that is) and I'm concerned with the kids securing them wrong and having one fall (damaging the bike, the kid or a car).

Does anyone have an innovative way to store multiple bikes in a tight space that does not require significant lifting?  The kids are able to get the bikes up on a rear wheel, but not typically to lift it enough to get it in a hook that would keep it off the ground.


texts: Advantages and Disadvantages of Bibs vs Shorts?

texts:
I have so far used cycling shorts for my road cycling attire, but have noticed that bib shorts are prevalent with many road cyclists including many pros.

What are advantages and disadvantages of using bibs vs cycling shorts?

Any quirks, caveats or major pluses for each?


texts: Knowing what bicycle frame material I have

texts:
I have a bicycle frame that's really heavy. It's a mountain bike frame with shocks, so I decided to replace the entire frame with a city bike aluminum frame(I only use the bike if I have to pick up/buy some stuff near home). How do I know if the frame that I replaced is a titanium/steel?

I got the bike as a present from my uncle almost 6 years back, I don't have an idea about the brand, it's just the entire frame is not your average frame, it's somewhat heavier than other bikes( I compared it with the aluminum frame I bought/ plus a couple of my friends bike)

What methods/techniques should I use to know what type of frame do I have?


texts: This is a Nexus 7 spd hub gear twist shifter integrated in the brake lever. I had to undo the gear cable to get my rear wheel out. I therefore turned the bicycle upside down (some say that this alone can wreck this type of shifter). I reinstalled the cable on the hub, but ever since the shifter won't work. I re-undid the gear cable at the hub end and now nothing seems to work anymore: arbitrary amount of cable length that I can pull out at the hub end (but never enough to reinstall the gear cable on the hub) and arbitrary amount of positions I can click the shifter in, no matter what I do (gear cable adjustement bolt completely in or out etc....). Is this shifter broken or am I missing something?


texts: Charging mobile phone using the battery of a rechargeable bike light?

texts: Most rechargeable bike light are charged via USB port. I wonder if is it possible to use them as a power bank for your mobile phone as well? Or only a subset of them can be use as a mobile phone charger?


texts:
On my single speed bike--a POS J Fixie Cafe CF from BikesDirect--has an issue with its back wheel. The wheel wobbles 1cm back and forth when pulled/pushed from side to side. The freewheel has been making noises since the day I got it. The noises are KLINK! KLONK! every time I pedal. I believe that this is due to  a bit of a warp on the frame that makes the tire asymmetrical to the frame. Basically the left seat stay is slightly larger than the right one. (The lesson here is not to buy from BikesDirect, but go to a LBS.)

Anyway, what can I do to fix this? Do I need to get a whole new back hub? Freewheel?


texts: Use of winter (studded) tires on only one wheel?

texts: Does anyone have any thoughts on use of winter (studded) tires, such as the Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires, on only the front or rear wheel (and with a standard tire on the other wheel)?


texts:
We noticed tonight that one of the brake levers, whenever you actuated it and let go rapidly, brake fluid would squirt out (black and oily substance).

I'm wondering if there would be some things that I could look for at home before bringing it in the shop. Maybe, an easy thing to look for? I would hate for it to be just a small screw to tighten or something.

Gear list:

Brake Levers Tektro Auriga
Brakes   Tektro Auriga, Hydraulic disc, 160mm


texts: Are tubeless mountain bike tire systems appropriate for winter riding?

texts: Are tubeless mountain bike tire systems appropriate for winter riding in below freezing temperatures?  Is there a low temperature limit that I should avoid riding in?  Does the cold affect performance of the sealants?


texts: Square taper spindle won't fit into the bottom bracket

texts:
I'm making a road bike with random components I have in my garage.
Everything works ok except for the bottom bracket which is a square taper 115mm long and it is still spinning free even if I turn the adjustable cup all the way in.
Whats wrong? Do the spindles have different diameters?


texts:
Does Garmin Oregon 700 have Strava integration?

I would like to know if there is any integration with Strava or mobile phones in the Garmin Oregon 700 (or 600 series) Is it possible to upload tracks to Strava and are segments visible on your display?


texts:
I'm in the process of setting up a new drive train.  When using the smaller chainring and smallest sprocket (hence least amount of utilized chain), the chain brushes up against the bottom of the derailleur.

Should I remove a link or two until this no longer happens?


texts:
I am rebuilding a Trek 2005 model 6500 and my spec. sheet for the bike says it has a Shimano Alivio front derailleur.  Where do I find the model no. that should be stamped on the part? I don't see it anywhere on the part.  This is a 3 x 8 speed setup.

Thanks,
Jerry


texts: Can a carrera valor mountain bike be converted to disk brakes?

texts: My Carrera valour mountain bike currently has v-brakes but the are not very good and to be honest they look a bit tacky compared to disc brakes, is it possible to convert it to disk brakes, because I'm not sure whether my bike has a suitable frame...


texts: Small Tear in Michelin Pro4 Tire, Does It Need To Be Replaced?

texts: Got back from a bike ride and noticed a small tear on the sidewall of my tire. I'm wondering if I can just seal it with some Goo Gone or do I need to replace the tire. I do have spares lying around so not a big deal. But I don't want to replace it if I have to. Thanks!


texts:
I want to build a 1x9 drivetrain MTB so I'm wondering if I can set this FC-M615 crankset to a single 64 BCD 28T chainring, from what I can see the XT M8000 is compatible and allows 11-speed cassette but I can't find any more information.

Why 28T? because it is what I felt more comfortable with, I have made the gear calculation on this site

Regarding the initial question, is that possible? will it work properly?


texts: I'm not sure which one to get. I'm 14 and will hopefully be getting into downhill but I'm not sure if I want to go all the way. This is my first full suspension bike.


texts: Replacing broken road fork with same model but shorter steerer tube. What can I expect for handling issues?

texts:
My road bike is an '05 Trek 1000 54 cm frame size.  The Bontrager carbon fork (Satellite Plus) was destroyed in a non riding accident.  I have found on eBay a replacement fork--same model , identical paint scheme, etc.  The only difference between these forks is the potential replacement has a steerer tube that measures 250mm compared to 285mm on my broken one.  I can remove 3 ten mm spacers from beneath my stem to get the end of the new, shorter steerer into a more appropriate clamping position.

My question is how will the loss of 30mm of stem height affect handling of the bike? How much can a variable like this be altered to be noticable to.the rider?  Are there techniques to compensate for the loss of steerer length if I want to keep my current stem?   I'll soon be forced to choose whether to purchase this fork or let it go, so any advice or thoughts will be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I have an Atax stem ('85 Peugeot). Original steel handlebars are 25 mm.

Is it prudent to spread the stem to accommodate  Nitto 25.4 randonneur bars?


texts: Axle - rear hub and washer thing a bit loose

texts:
I have a rear wheel that has needed work 3 or more times in around 3 years (of not very regular riding) and I'm wondering if something is especially wrong with the setup on this FUJI road bike.

A few years back I reworked the axle on the bike - put some grease in it and set it. Later it had come very stiff. I opened it up and bought some cones to replace it - fairly chewed up.

This year I took it to a cycle-hobby shop as the wheel was wiggling like out-of-true, but no one portion of the wheel consistently rubbed. Sure enough, they say it needed bearings, now it trues up perfectly and all good?

Now, after a few rides and a few months, I'm seeing it is obviously loose and furthermore the little round washer was coming loose. Pushed it in and rode a bit, and this part is still not completely fitted in as I can push it in a little.

What is that part called, and is it safe to run with that a little loose? Is just tightening the cones and tightening/loosening likely to fix this for good or... for another year at least?

The chain goes forward just slightly when freewheeling but apparently that is supposed to be normal? Not sure if it is in any way related.


texts: Are Campagnolo and Shimano 11 speed chains interchangeable?

texts: I have an Athena 11 speed group set, but can get a good deal on the Shimano 9000 chain. Does anyone know of any reports of issues combining the two?


texts: Do I need to replace hydraulic fluid in my brakes?

texts:
I've had my bike (GT Avalanche 1) for maybe four or five years now.  I've changed the pads once, removed and cleaned all parts on the bike a few times now, but I've never touched the brake fluid.  Does this need to be changed, and if so, why and how?

I couldn't honestly say whether performance has deteriorated over time - they still stop the bike and I don't notice any fade - I'm just curious.

Brakes are Tektro Auriga Comp.


texts: What are my options for installing a FD compatible with Shimano Sora 3x9 STI brifters on a frame with top-pull cable routing?

texts:
I'm thinking about converting a 1994 Trek 820 to drop bars. I already have the bars, brifters, rear wheel equipped with 9-speed cassette, etc. lying around, and I can get some compatible brakes, so as far as I see, my only issue is the front derailleur, because of the different pull ratios of road vs MTB shifters.
My question is, do you know of a top or dual-pull road triple FD? If not, what are my options? There's the Problem Solvers clamp pulley, but I can't find it in stock in any shop that delivers to Austria
Edit: Seat tube diameter is 31.8 mm.


texts: What do I grease and what do I lubricate?

texts:
I always thought grease was a means of lubricating, but based on the reading I've been doing here it seems they are different things. So now I'm wondering, what parts should I grease and what parts should I lubricate? Additionally, what do I use to lubricate (obviously lubricant, but what specifically)?

I'm all about buying a big container of something that I know I'm going to use a lot of. I also hate overspending on "high quality" if the cheap stuff works well enough (for a cheap bike).

What recommendations do you have for buying grease,  lubricant, and degreaser in bulk? What's the shelf-life like? Is there a single grease/lubricant/degreaser that will work on all the parts of my bike that need grease/lubricant/degreasing? Or will I have to buy more than one of each type? How terrible would it be if I didn't?


texts: Is there any way to remove a rear cassette WITHOUT a cassette wrench?

texts: I've tried to and tried, but just can't do it. Can anyone help me with a way to remove my crappy old 7 speed cassette and install a brand new 11 speed without using a cassette wrench? I'm not rich enough to own one.


texts: Kona Mahuna 2013 headset change question.

texts:
I have a Kona Mahuna 2013 and I got a tapered fork as well as a new wheel and now I'm looking for advice on changing my headset to accept tapered forks.

I've been looking and I believe that this headset should fit correctly in my bike. According to the specs, it has an FSA No.10 ZS44 semi-integrated at the moment, stock. I just want to make sure before I would get my headset and it installed correctly in the shop with all the reaming/facing/etc. required.

Thanks!


texts: Can I swap my fixie frame and still keep all my old components?

texts:
I would like to change the frame of my fixie, it's too small for me now. It's a PureFix Bravo 50 cm, these are the specs.

I would like to change the frame for a bigger one, a 54 or 58 cm one. Is it possible?


texts: What would be some good and affordable mountain bikes for a beginner?

texts: What would be a good bike which would be low priced and work for a rookie?


texts: Where can I find out more about this bike with a spoke-less back wheel?

texts:
I saw this really cool, very unusual type of bike which does not use spokes for the back tire.

Can you please tell me if you are experienced and interested in such bikes how can I find one of those or build one. I've tried reversed image search engines like tineye.com but I couldn't find any results.

Furthermore if you are a fan of such type of bikes could you supply me with some 'juicy' links.


texts: Can a long stem be used safely with a short head tube?

texts: I picked up a 91 Rb-1 50cm down tube and 53cm top tube but the reach is a little short. A new stem was my best option so I picked one up. the height of the stem seems too long visually for the head tube but feels better. I understand the handling may be a bit different but would like to know if its safe?


texts:
I ride these pedals:

which came with these cleats:

Now I see that Crank Brothers are selling their "Premium" cleat:

I'm ready to replace my cleats. Is the premium cleat compatible with my pedal, or do I need to stick to the earlier style? Do the 'wings' on the original cleat offer something that I need?


texts:
Been running a set of quite nice slicks at 120-140 PSI for a couple of months. Might have done 400-600 km on the bike in that time. Tonight the rear tire exploded while the bike was sitting in my entryway. It's split right along the seam, with a roughly 2 inch long gap. Very loud bang etc.

Before I go out and buy another $70 tire, I want to get an idea of what caused this. Some possibilities that I've thought of include:

Running the tire at 140 PSI. The tire is rated to that pressure, but maybe this is still too much?
Some brief stretches of gravel road (1-2km) I did on it last weekend. The bike seemed fine then however.
There is a central heating/cooling vent directly adjacent to where the bike is stored. Perhaps the changes in temperature were enough to damage the tire?
The roads in this area are not always very good. Maybe this is just the result of accumulated damage from dozens of minor nicks and bumps?
The tire could be defective.

Edit: added a picture. Looks like the tube has a ~1cm hole in it.


texts: Resurrecting an old style SRM Amateur power meter?

texts:
I decided to put my old SRM amateur chainset on my indoor trainer bike, then charged the SRM V unit, but its not working after the charge. I've not used it in 3 years so not surprised, and Im guessing the strain gauge battery is dead too.

My question is - is it worth resurrecting this since the error margin is 5%? Where can this be done in the UK and how much would it cost


texts:
What should I know before I start entering races?

I've been cycling for one year now after an injury ended my running career so I'm still pretty much a beginner. I'd like to try my hand at racing but I've noticed there is quite a lot of etiquette around cycling so I don't just want to roll up to the start line and anger all the other competitors.


texts: Is it ethical to ride with races without being part of them?

texts:
I find it tedious to spend half a day riding the dangerous streets of the city to purchase a mountain insurance, then spend money on race subscription and in then arriving early as hell on the start line to get my number.

Provided I do not take any water or food from the checkpoints and I do not cross the finish line, is there an ethical reason not to ride with the race?


texts: Compatible tyre widths for 622 × 17 rims?

texts:
I have 622 × 17 rims on my hybrid and currently have 700×40c tyres on (came with the bike).

I need a new rear tyre but I am not sure what I can get. From what I can find I should be fitting fairly narrow tyres in the 25-28C range?


texts:
After trying the local "Hill" I was surprised to see my heart rate dropped substantially despite subjectively putting in a lot of effort. How can I maintain constant cardiovascular effort to all the way to the top of the hill?

I'm a moderately fit, mid-forties man.  I'm in my local running club, I parkrun 5k in 23min etc. I ride to work daily (about 4miles along a disused railway path).
While I'm furloughed, I've been trying to maintain fitness on my bike by doing some longer rides
and up the local Hill, nicknamed "The Wall" on Ashdown forest, Sussex, about 1.5km with a gradient between 8 and 10. I monitor my HR with a Polar 200 watch.

And I've found it pretty tough!

That wasn't a big surprise, but I was surprised to see that my heart rate dropped substantially during the climb from about 140 to about 90-95 on the second (steeper) section of the climb.  A HR of 95 would normally be "brisk walk" level of effort. But subjectively it felt "very hard" with burning legs and heavy breathing. I found it necessary to drop right down to the lowest gear to keep going.

Is this drop in HR expected? What should I be doing to ensure that I am able to push consistently all the way to the top?

My ultimate goal would be "build CV health", but my medium-term motivational goal is "get up The Wall as quickly as possible."

The research I've done such as https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitness/training/improve-your-climbing-353501 mostly focusses on "how to lower your heart rate while climbing".


texts:
I happen to live in a windy climate. I often find myself riding against strong headwinds and sudden gusts seemingly coming from all directions at once.

What are your tactics for riding in such conditions?


texts: How do I know what size tyres can I fit on my rims?

texts:
I have a hybrid bike with Alex DP17 32h rims (700c).  They still have the tyres that came with the bike on them, 40c konda's, but I'd like to replace them with some puncture resistant, narrower tyres with a slick centre strip since most of my commute is on road/tarmac path.

I can't find the rims on the Alexrims site, so how do I find out what tyres it is possible to fit?


texts: I never had my own bike. I don't know it's pluses or minuses. Now I need to use one so have to get one. Please tell which brand is easy to maintain, not costing arm and leg to have. Easy to change wheels, rubber part etc. Thanx!


texts:
I'm new to the bicycles scene and was trying to 3D draw a bicycle.

I'm currently trying to draw an 11 speed 11-30T cassette but I quickly noticed that the design of the teeth of the gears are quite advanced and thus that piqued my interest.

From a friend I hear that there are books and papers that discuss the shape of the teeth and they also have equations used to determine the shape using the pitch and roller diameter dimensions from the chain.

I tried looking for these books or any relevant information on these teeth designs but to my surprise, it seems that this info is really hard to find on the internet.

So my next strategy to find this information is by asking others! So if anyone has any information on this or has a website/book/technical report where I can find more info about this topic please let me know.

Thanks in advance!


texts:
Recently I bought a mountain bike with hydraulic disk brakes.

But when I ride it the front wheel makes screaming sounds, possibly from the disk brake.

I contacted my local dealer and they helped me adjusting the brakes, and I even learn how to do it also.

But it seems the problem happens more than once, every time after I put back the front wheel and start riding. The problem is frustrating; I need about 5 minutes to adjust the brake and tyres every time.

What can I do, should I replace anything?


texts: Who manufactures 590mm BSD (EA3 | 650A | 26 x 1 3/8) alloy touring rims?

texts:
I am trying to ask the question in a way that it can be answered. I am not asking who makes the best rim of this size.

Features:
 - In the triangle of price, weight and durability the last one is most important for my question but the list of manufacturers is probably not very long anyway.
 - I am planning to use rim brakes.

So far I have found:

Sun CR18 http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1348 (sorry for Harry's link - did not find them on manufacturer's page)
Araya SP-30 http://www.araya-kk.co.jp/rim/product.htm


texts: Most Efficient Way to tune rear gears of mountain bike

texts:
I have a schwinn ranger suntour mountain bike which I enjoy riding and ride frequently.  When the bike was new I had no difficulty shifting through all 21 speeds of the bicycle with 3 gears by the crank and 7 by the rear wheel.  I can shift through the 3 gear speeds with no issue, however currently  when I attempt to shift to any of my rear 7 gears nothing usually happens I appear to be stuck around 2nd or 3rd gear no matter which gear is selected and I am noticing more frequent chain slipping.

The amount of slack for the cable for the derailleur for those gears can be adjusted by loosening a screw with an alan wrench, it is currently loose on my bicycle (I haven't been riding around like that)

Is it possible to regain access the rest of my gears and reduce chain slipping?
What is the proper technique to resolve this issue of gear shifting?


texts: Is there a safety feature in any brand of clipless pedals which allows the mechanism to release in the event of an accident? For example, being hit by a car in traffic while commuting, I would hope the bike wouldn't fly with me, but that I would somehow be released from the bicycle. I have only used clipless pedals in a spin class and I am hesitant to use them on the road for this reason. Does this feature exist?


texts:
I just replaced my front cogs and back sprockets with new ones (I didn't use a torque tool or replace the chain). I also replaced the sealed bearing bottom bracket on my pedals. The old bearings were 115 mm long and the new one is 117,5 mm long.

Now I feel some sort of vibration, and there is a noise like the gear wants to change, but the rear derailleur is set correctly with one click per gear. What can cause vibration and noise from the chain?


texts: Looking to replace 700c tires with mountain bike like tires

texts: I have a scott sportster 55 2012 with araya 700c tx 733 tire rims. The bike comes with disc brakes , so there's a good amount of room above the tires on the front & back. Can I replace my skinny tires with some more mountain bike like? And what would be the sizes / types I'm looking for ? I'm new so any information is appreciated


texts: Symptoms of handlebars that are too narrow? Triceps pain?

texts: Recently I went down from 42cm handlebars to 40cm ones, but I've been getting really tight/sore triceps whilst on the bike. I've read that usually the symptom of running bars that are too narrow is usually that you have breathing difficulties, but that aspect is fine for me. After about 20 minutes or so, my triceps start getting really sore, towards the elbow end of the muscle. Is this a sign that the bars are too narrow?


texts: Is it worth it to repair or is it better to buy?

texts: I found an old bike on my grandpa's house and since i am in need of a decent bike i wanted to know if the bike was good enough to be refurbished (new gears, pedals, brakes, tires etc.) or if would be better to just buy a new one.


texts: This reply about belt-driven belt got my interest here. It does not need lubrication at all according to the replier. What are other properties with belt-drive chain? Where does the idea come from? Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines? Are they durable? Do they last in all kind of weather? Like in freezing winter to sunny summer? Do they stretch like steel chains? When should you change them?


texts: Why should I not coast while training (even after intervals)?

texts:
A comment in this answer about building up stamina for a commute says not to coast, even after intervals.

Why not? How is coasting different from light pedaling with minimal load (which I'm assuming is the alternative for recovery)?


texts: New high quality tire doesn't sit evenly on the rim

texts:
It's my first tire change experience and I got so far using youtube videos but now I'm stuck.
Got these Schwalbe 365 tires yesterday for my folding bike.
It is an all season model which feels a bit harder than the tire that was on the bike from the factory but both are 40-406 20x1.5".
The bead doesn't sit properly on the rim. This is the case from both sides as seen in the images. There's a small misalignment between where the problem manifests itself on each side of the rim.
The tube is also brand new (Continental). The temprature in the bicycle room where I tried is around 16-22 deg.

Hadn't used soapy water when installing the tire and can't measure tire pressure (it's recommended 3-6 bar).

What do you recommend to solve the issue?

Update: bought a pump with gauge, rotated the tire and used a bit of liquid soap to end up with this result:

One thing that I discovered today is that the tire is literally tighter at the point where there's a problem which makes me think the tire might have some issues due to how it was stored I  the shop. But that would be too sad because despite the issues I really like these tires.


texts: Adjusting a triple front derailleur after removing largest chainring

texts:
I have a touring/commuting bike with full Shimano 105 -- triple in the front.

I just removed the outer (largest) chainring and replaced it with a chain guard.

It's easy enough to crank on the limit screws to prevent myself from shifting past the middle chainring. However, the chain rubs the front derailleur in my new largest gear (42x11).

So I'm wondering what the best way to adjust the front derailleur would be. Ideally, I'd like to limit out the lowest shift so that I can take advantage of the trim shift that 105 derailleur and shifter have in the outermost position. Is that possible?

Another option is that I have a 105 double front derailleur hanging around. Perhaps that would be more appropriate.

Side note: I checked this question, but it's replacing the entire crank, while I have simply removed one of the chainrings.


texts: Can I cut the steerer tube with a pipe cutter?

texts:
I found out that Hozan lists a pipe cutter among its tools, and as far as I know all Hozan tools are made for bike mechanics.
From one of the pictures it looks like this could be used to cut an aluminium steerer tube. Also, by looking at the price on most retailers, it looks like a cheaper solution against the combination saw plus sawing guide.
Is this meant to be actually used for steerer tubes, or something else? Is there any disadvantage in using this for cutting aluminium steerer tubes compared to, say, a Park Tool saw?


texts: What type of ebike motor would work best for a 13” tire?

texts:
I want to drive a yard cart with a motor / battery.  The cart has 13” wheels and weighs ~200 pounds loaded.  I want to walk behind it, so I’ll need to be able to control the speed between 1-3 mph.
After looking at different options, I think using an ebike motor is easiest solution. Is there an ebike motor that I could couple with 1:1 ratio and have enough torque?
Ideally, the motor / gearing would freewheel to still allow manual operation.  The more 'rainproof' the solution is, the better...
So far: adapting a freewheel to my wheel hub(s) is the best solution I have.  If I use a 20T BMX style freewheel and a geared motor with a 9T gear, max speed would be ~9 MPH, but I'm thinking I will be controllable...


texts: On what surfaces can I safely use my hybrid bike?

texts:
I will be doing a 50 mile ride in a few weeks' time, most of which is on tow paths and a disused railway line. The surface will therefore be somewhat rough and loose, but not muddy and no major obstacles.

Obviously I would like to use the bike I have, which I use for commuting every day on smooth tarmac bike paths.
It is a hybrid bike (rigid forks, flat handlebars, regular rim brakes), which is obviously not a major problem, but I have replaced the original tires (35mm I think,and a little knobbly) with smooth 28mm tires.

Will my bike be suitable, comfortable and safe (for the bike and for the rider) on off-road tracks?

Edit for more info:
The disused railway is fully decommissioned, and is routinely used by walkers and cyclists (it is now a public bridleway). I haven't seen the surface personally but I gather it is fairly level and smooth but covered in a mixture of compacted soil, gravel and stone chippings and grass in some areas


texts: Why is it important to keep equal number of turns when building a wheel?

texts:
My first wheelset build here. I am following Sheldon and this guy. They both stress very much to tighten the nipples to an equal length, for example just as the spoke threads stop showing, and the even more carefully, do equal number of turns on each nipple, in small increments.

Building the front wheel I followed this advice and the result was several very tight spokes and a wheel out of true. My next step was basically to make the tension on all spokes equal, and then true the wheel.

The wheel is true now and looks ready for use (dishing error, vertical and horizontal mis-alignment are small).

So why equal number of turns, if in the end equal tension is the desired result? Or did I do something wrong?

On another note, the rim freshly-purchased, should be true (looks true, and carrying the two rims next to each other, there were no gaps between them, meaning at least sideways being true). So it makes sense to tighten the spokes with equal tension, to avoid twisting the rim, right?

PS: I triple checked that the nipples are well seated into the eyelets and that the lacing pattern is equal everywhere and the same as on an another wheel.


texts: I replaced my rear hub, but I'm not sure about how to attach the derailleur

texts:
I'm new to working on bikes and have been unable to find an answer via the internet, which, too be honest, is probably really simple.

I got a bike just for riding around the city that had a cheap hub which went out recently.  I replaced the hub and cassette with a Deore T610 and HG51, which I had no problem doing and they seem to fit the bike just fine.

My problem is that I'm not sure how to attach the derailleur.  The old derailleur was attached inline with the axle bolt, tightened down by a nut.  I was planning on using the old derailleur for the time being, but the axle for the new hub is the standard 142mm, which means it doesn't extend past the bike frame itself, as seen in the picture below.  I can mount the derailleur on the outside of the frame and tighten it with the quick release, but I'm hesitant to do so since it won't be supported by the axle.  Is it normal for the derailleur to be supported just by the pressure of the QR and not supported by hanging on the axle?

I also thought that maybe I should just replace the derailleur altogether, which I have no problem with, but it seems like most derailleurs also attach via built-in hanger or via a removable hanger, which would also be attached to the main axle.  So even if I did replace the derailleur, I'd still have a similar question about how to actually attach the hanger to my bike.  Further more, my bike doesn't have any kind of slot or bolt hole for a hanger.  Can I just use a generic hanger an tighten it down with the quick release?

Thanks for taking the time to read through this! I'd really appreciate any help!


texts: Lifespan chain and gear wheels on e-bike

texts:
If is possible to give an indication of the  average lifespan of the chain and gear wheels of an E-bike?
Assuming: Cycling in all weather conditions (commute); Western European climate (10% of time rainy, snow is rare). Average monthly temperature ranges from 0 to 20. No Cycling off road. Open chain/gear (no case).
Lifespan may be in km, or in years/months assuming about 3000 km/y.


texts:
Bike components or upgrades are sometimes quoted as saving some number of "grams" of drag.

How can a gram, a unit of mass, be used to quantify drag, which is a force?

And for extra credit, why is this a useful way to quantify drag?


texts: What derailleur hanger do I need for my Merida Speeder 200?

texts:
My rear derailleur hanger on my Merida Speeder 200 (2019) is slightly bent, resulting in bad shifting across the whole range.

While I found an explanation on how to bend the hanger back I want to buy a spare one in case I need to replace it.

However,  I found a lot of different hangers online. Which one do I need?


texts:
A RD was recently lightly smashed in. I straightened the derailleur hanger "by hand" and now it is "good enough" with some chain rub on the cogs. I set out to readjust the rear gears but am facing the following problem: no matter what I do, the chain is never prevented from dropping between the cogs and spokes at low gear ratio.

I took a closer look and while the high limit screw rests against a wide platform on the body of the RD, the low limit screw seems to resist against the thin wall of the parallelogram!

My hypothesis is that the parallelogram is bent and "too open", so a suitable repair would be to bend it inward a little so that the screw makes contact. But that sounds too sketchy - why wouldn't there be a platform for the screw to resist against? Am I in error?


texts:
On a Thule Chariot Trailer (back when sold as Trek), it came with the plastic wheels.  I got it second hand so I assume the tires are stock.  The tires are rated for 55 psi, but they slip off the wheel and cause blow outs (both out and about as well just sitting in the garage).  This happens on any of the wheels.  I can not find any damage to the wheel or the tire, so my current work around is using around 35 psi.

Has my tires aged too much?  It has been garage kept.  While the tires do have some cracks in the tread, they hold up really well.  The sidewalls are kind of stiff so I can stroller around with it easily without air (these wheels have blown out on me in public before).  I notice that the tire is a bit more shiny than any of my newer ones.  Would replacing the tires with new ones prevent this from happening?

Is a wheel change in order?  I see that the current models use conventional wheels.  The plastic wheels don't really bother me personally.  They are the side post quick release, with the release mechanism on the trailer itself and not like a push button in the wheel hub.


texts: Can a Garmin Touring charging port be repaired

texts:
The charging port on my Garmin Touring has become wobbly and will no longer charge. It is about 3 years old.

Looking around on line it appears the solder may have weakened and the charging port has disconnected from the circuit board.

What I haven't been able to find is if this is a repairable issue, either at home, via Garmin or somewhere else.

Does anyone know if this is possible to repair or do I need to start saving for a new one?


texts:
During the 25+ years of cycling I've done (5,000 - 7,000 miles/yr), I've tried upwards of 75 saddles, yet STILL haven't found one I could call "comfortable."  By now, I know what I want, but can't seem to find it.  Firstly, I don't like any with those cutouts, grooves, love channels, etc., including those really weird ones (SMP, ISM, Adamo, Cobb, SQLabs).  Basically, I'm looking for a "medium" saddle -- another apparent rare commodity these days -- both padding and size-wise (i.e., not a hard, narrow racer, but not a big, soft "comfort" model, either).  As for padding, the closest I've had is a Terry (men's) Fly and (woman's) Butterfly.  Besides not liking the cutouts, the Fly was definitely too narrow, and the BF a bit too wide (and short).  Shape/wide/profile-wise, the closest was a Blackburn Ciento.  Also liked that the rails allowed a more rearward position (for my 91 cm+ inseam), but the padding was some kind of memory foam that I found a little too squishy.  I'm looking for about a 150-155 mm width, a flat profile viewed from the side, but a bit rounded (mainly near the sides) viewed from the back.

Could the problem be related to fit?  I'm in a moderate position (bar 6 cm below saddle, back about 30-degrees above ground when on the hoods).    I've had 5 bike fittings done, none of which I could call "comfortable" or "efficient."  Most had the bar 3 - 5 cm further away and/or lower than what I have now -- apparently thinking my position was too scrunched up -- which not only caused more rear/crotch discomfort/saddle-sore infestations, but also a 20%+ drop in power output.  (The Guru fits used the "Slowtwitch" system which -- for reasons I can't comprehend -- bases bar reach on a percentage of saddle height . . . this puts my reach a 60 cm, which is 6 cm longer than what I have now!)

Could something about my posture be not-quite-right?  On another forum, someone said that I'm "not sitting the right way."  (Not sure in exactly what way he meant that.)

Or, could it just be that my expectations are exceedingly high?  (Yes, I know a saddle is not a waterbed or luxury recliner, but it would be nice ride without any pain/discomfort down there.)


texts: I have bought a Giant Talon 3 recently. I was wondering if it could possibly be used for the occasional trip to one of my local downhill tracks. I'm just getting started in downhill and so I really don't want to have to buy a new bike unless it is necessary. I was also wondering if it would be possible to put a longer travel fork on my bike. It currently has a 100mm travel Suntour fork on it, but I was considering putting a new fork on it with a travel of around 150mm on the bike. If I was to put a new fork on the bike what the would the maximum size really be for my bike (27.5 inch wheels, and a medium size frame)


texts: How do hand signals vary between countries?

texts:
There are several conventions on how to signal properly

The simple method (straight left arm = left, straight right arm = right)
This answer on SE depicts a left-arm-only way of signalling (straight left arm = left, bent 90 up = right)

I'd like to know where should one use which singalling convention? I'm personally mostly concerned about Europe, but let's keep the question general.


texts: swap Shimano Alivio gear indicator for cover plate

texts:
I want to move my brake levers and gear shifters around a bit.  The problem is my gears (Shimano Alivio, bought 4 years ago) have a large gear indicator on it.  This is meaning that either the brakes are too far in from my hands, or the gear shifters are too close to my hands and I bump into them and find it awkward to change gears.

I have taken the cover off of the front shifter which comes off nice and easily, but the mechanism is slightly exposed below, so think I need some sort of cover plate or the gears will get damaged over time.

Is there such a thing?  Has anyone had any experience with this?


texts:
My bike has a grip shift (Shimano revoshift) which isn't shifting through all 8 gears.  Even with the gear cable removed (it recently broke) it will only shift through half of the gear numbers and some blanks.  It is almost as if the number dial has slipped around the shifter.

It still sort of works ok but I can't use all of the gears.

Is it just a broken shifter that needs replacing or is it something that can be fixed?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

KR,
Pappaun


texts: What can I wear in the cold weather to be able to bike to work (where I don't have a shower)

texts:
I've already read the answers to this question and learned a lot!

But my question is a bit different, I bike to work almost everyday, not a long ride, a few miles, a bit hilly a bit road side...

My problem is if I wear a lot I sweat and I don't have a shower at work, but I can't tolerate the cold either (I live near Washington DC, we have some cold and specially windy days, and I leave fairly early in the morning).

Any suggestions, to what I can wear (on top of my not formal clothes that I wear at work) to keep my warm and dry without making me sweat?

Needless to say, I am a very amateur biker!


texts:
My tyre says 700x38 on the side of it.
what size inner tube would I need for the wheel? I've ordered a 700x35 inner tube but it seems a little too big for it?


texts: What's the best way to quickly align front quick release wheel?

texts:
The front wheel on my bike is quick-release, and I often remove it when locking up my bike. Then when I go to put it back on, sometimes it is a bit difficult to make sure that the wheel is centered properly. I.e., the brake pads are not equally distant from the wheel rim, so sometimes one side of the brakes is a bit too close to the wheel.

I don't want to have to spend a spend a ton of time placing the quick-release wheel back on the frame. That defeats the purpose of quick-release, if it is slow-replace.

What are some techniques for quickly but safely replacing the quick-release wheel with v-brakes?


texts: Rear Tyre torn at rim - what was the cause?

texts:
I had a blowout the other day.  On investigation, it was a C-shaped cut in the tube.  It patched okay and on reinstalling I found this culprit :

The tyre is not new but its not old either - plenty of tread left.

I've seen very old / weathered tyres where the rubber has deteriorated and the bead has separated but the cords remain.   However this has torn about 20mm worth of cords.

I've wondered if it was too-high pressure, but the tyre sidewall says 40-65 PSI and I run them at 50-60.

The tyre may be too wide for the rim - but its the original tyre which came on this bike from new.

There is no noticeable roughness on the rim at any point, so abrasion seems unlikely.

The bike is a 20" folder and has done 1,300 km since I bought it used.  Previous owner did minimal riding, so its done maybe 1,500 km total (1000 miles)

Lastly, I do occasionally use this bike as a tractor to tow a trailer.  Its done 50km towing some amount of weight on a rear-axle mounted trailer, and despite moving some decent loads the nose-weight of the trailer has never been more than 10-12 kg (20-25 libs)

Question What was the cause of this tear in my tyre?

Edits

Yes this is the rear tyre.
Its a folding bike that started as 1x6 and this wheel was rebuilt onto an 8 speed cassette hub so its 3x8 gearing.
yes it has rim V brakes


texts:
I want to upgrade my bike to a 1x system using a Shimano GRX-crank upfront.

I however have a flatbar and can thus only fit flatbar shifters.

What is the lesser evil?

11-Speed XT derailleur with XT shifter and GRX crank
11-Speed GRX derailleur with XT shifter and GRX crank

Thank you in advance.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that everything including the rear wheel and cassette will be new.


texts: How to prevent Brooks Cambium C17 saddle from wearing through pants

texts:
I've got a Brooks Cambium C17 saddle, and as others have noted (see "long term experience" heading), the fabric covering has worn through the seat of my pants from abrasion and has resulted in one pair of pants tearing just a few weeks after riding on this saddle.

Does anyone have a good remedy for this?

I'm considering a rain cover like so, but I'm not sure how long that would last before it tears through as well.

I wrote an email to Brooks about a recommendation for the problem, but I've yet to hear back.

My seat height is such that my legs are almost fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke. I have not noticed this problem on other saddles.

The pants that wore through (and I have another pair of the same pants that is wearing thin in the seat as well) are Dockers Life Khakis like this - a cotton / polyester blend that has been fairly durable in my years riding in other saddles.


texts:
I bought this road bike as my first road bike in 2011. I have not changed the chain or any parts on it since then and I bike on it almost daily. It's been running great, but sometimes I have trouble changing gears and I feel like the issues are getting more frequent. I had a major accident on this bike in 2012 learning how to use the clipless pedals but the bike landed on the opposite side of the cassette.

Are the scratches in the picture below "normal" for a bike this old? Do I have to replace any parts? Is it safe to ride as-is?

Here are some pictures:


texts:
I have an aluminum seat post in a steel frame. The post was really hard to extract and I don't want this thing corroding on me.

You've discussed how to take care of the rust on a steel frame and on the use of grease to prevent corrosion.

Additionally, my seat post seems to be corroded (lightly).

Any tips on getting that off? Sandpaper/wire brush it off?


texts:
I've been commuting on a flat bar road bike for a couple of years now. The ride feels comfortable but whenever I see myself riding I always think my posture is wonky.

Is there a guide somewhere or picture that shows proper riding posture on a flat bar road bike? I've seen many of racers but none of flat bar/hybrids.

I've attached the image of my bicycle, will try to get a picture of my posture on it soon.


texts: Campagnolo Ergopower Chorus 9 inaccurate shifting

texts:
My Chorus 9 Speed Ergo-power (~2005) got inaccurate during shifting. The local bike repairman couldn't get the dérailleur to shift properly.

Sometimes the chain don't jump down or up after shifting. Some gears are skipped and the pressure points got weak.

What parts do I need to replace? Is it maybe a better idea to replace the whole Shifters with a available new 9 Speed Ergopower like the Xenon?


texts: Brake cable housing doesn't attach to lever

texts:
I got a new bike but the front brake doesn't work. I tried reading up about the brake system on line and learned quite a bit (they're cantilever brakes). But I am missing something elementary and simple.

(1) Should the brake cable housing (the outer housing that the thin brake cable runs through) be affixed to the brake lever?

(2) If so, how do I attach it? My bike has two brakes -- Shimano STI levers and Tektro safety levers on the front. The cable runs through both, but there is no tension in either, and the housing doesn't attach to the Tektro lever -- it kind of just slips out of where the adjuster is located.

I know this must be a really simple problem, which is why I'm frustrated not to find instructions for what I should try to resolve it.

Thanks for any advice or pointers!


texts:
I found this bike.

The front wheel is ruined. Back is normal, but I can replace it if it worth.
It have 5 gears.
It have no serial number under BB.

So here my questions:
1. Can anyone tell when this bike was manufactured?
2. How much can a bike like this cost if fully repaired?
3. I can get any parts (good quality), so, if it worth to repair, what parts should NOT be changed (as antique), and what HAVE to be changed to modern parts?


texts: What photos should I include in an ad of a bike?

texts:
Now and then I have to sell a bike on an internet marketplace (e.g. Craigslist, Facebook).

What type of photos should I include in the posting to convey useful information to potential buyers?


texts: What are the most common causes for hysteresis in the rear derailler?

texts:
I have often seen derailleurs on cheap MTBs to degrade in performance by showing hysteresis. By that I mean that to switch to a certain cog, one needs to shift one cog further and then immediately one back to get the chain to the desired cog.

What could be the cause for such degradation of shifting quality. Is this often a tuning problem, or wear, or the derailleur spring getting stuck with dirt and grime?


texts:
I bought the cheapest chain breaker, XLC 10EUR, and its head got loose on the first try (maybe due to my poor handling or it is not well-done product).

I was on the journey and had to get it so did not have time to investigate for better long-term option. This reply raised the issue again, here.

The shop-keeper said that he used some very expensive tool because it "is much better in everything but for great price tag". Which durable chain breaker would you suggest to replace XLC? And if you have tips not to break it, please, do not hesitate to contain.


texts: Tubeless fatbike setup, does valve choice matter?

texts:
I've got a pugsly setup as tubeless, running endomorph tires, typically I run between 8 and 12 PSI in the tires depending on the conditions.

Is there a significant difference between performance of presta vs schrader valves at these low pressures?


texts: Can I replace loose ball bearings with caged ball bearings in my hub?

texts:
I currently have loose ball bearings for my hubs and I am wondering if I can put caged ball bearings in there instead. Can anyone let me know if they are better or worse than loose bearings.

Also I thought of asking this because I noticed my front wheel was making quite a bit of vibration when spinning so I opened it up and added one more ball bearing to each side as there were only 9 in each side even though I surely remember taking out 10 from both sides when replacing an axle in the past. After this, the wheel would not move at all as each ball would rub on eachother so I left it with 9 balls each side, but I still don't feel right about the fact that there is some space between each ball in the hub. This is why I thought it might be a good idea to switch to caged ball bearings. Is the space between each ball a problem or am I overthinking it?


texts:
I live in an area with many steep hills which are all about 1000-1300 feet high. My current bike is a Ghost Northshore which is a freerider just slightly under 37 lbs. I bought this bike to ride on my own trail. However I dont do this kind of riding anymore and I am looking for a bike to cruise hills up and down and to do tours under 20 miles regularly. Climbing with my Ghost bike is certainly not the funniest thing to do. Sometimes it is just not possible. The bike is heavy, has only higher gears, the suspension takes all my energy (it is not lockable) and the saddle is very low. Its just not made for this kind of riding.

Now Im looking for a lighter bike which fits my needs a little bit better but I dont want to loose all the characteristics of my freerider. I would love to have bigger brakes and some fork travel. I found this Cube Stereo 140 HPC Race which has the right amount of suspension travel for me (I would like to take smaller jumps under 3 feet or so very rarely); bigger brakes; is light enough and most important: It is in my price range.

I need your advice if this bike is capable for regularly and sometimes serious climbing. The weight seems to be fine but Im especially unsure if the gears are right for my purpose. Are they low enough for serious climbing? Or is this bike meant for riding in a bike park? That is something I almost never do.


texts: How to nail clipping into race pedals without looking?

texts:
I was persuaded to switch to race SPD-SL pedals after losing the old MTB pedals to theft (along with the bike!). They're one-sided, though, unlike the MTB pedals, and I find that coming off of a red light full stop, I either pop my down foot right into the pedal, or I miss and have to toe it across the intersection while trying to get the cleat in. It's too dangerous to look down and watch the pedal when this happens.

Is there a strategy that makes this easier and more consistent (and therefore safer)?


texts: Does Strava display live watts while biking?

texts: Does Strava display watts from a bluetooth power meter along with a bluetooth heart rate in real time while I'm riding?


texts: How to fix a clanking rear wheel/flywheel

texts:
On my single speed--a POS Bikes Direct bike--the rear wheel makes a clunking noise every time I pedal. I think it is coming from the freewheel and it's basically a CLINK! CLONK! noise that is driving me nuts.

I should mention that the seat stay on the left side of the bike is slightly longer than on the right. Therefore the back is asymmetrical. The tire rides perfectly in the center of the rear dropouts and between the chain stays. However, the tire is a right aligned to the right seat stay.

Here is a visual I sent to Bikes Direct to try to get them to fix it:

And here are pictures of the bike from various angles.


texts:
I just got the CycleOps thru axle kit and installed the thru axle on my Litespeed. The bolt action clamp that comes with the kit barely clamps around the axle cap on the thru axle though. Is this really how it's designed to work, and is it really enough to hold my bike in the trainer?

Here's a video showing this: https://imgur.com/uHgCqWl


texts: Bike unstable (difficult to ride without hands on bars) after changing fork after collision

texts:
After a low speed collision with the front of a car in which a cars bumper met the side of my fork (I was in a track stand-esque stance) my fork was bent slightly so I replaced it with a (inexpensive but good enough) fork from amazon that very closely resembled the dimensions of my original fork. The length from the bottom of the head stock to the wheel may be slightly longer on the new one.

Since replacing it, my bike has become difficult to ride without handle bars. I know that the forks geometry basically determines this, but I think the change is slight enough it wouldn't have made it unstable.

Could there be another reason for causing the instability or is it likely that the new fork is different enough geometry to cause this issue.
Things I've thought of so far:

Front wheel is untrue (checked and it's pretty good).
Front wheel is out if dish (didn't think about this until now so I'm not sure but it's hard for me to check since I don't have a truing stand).
Rear wheel out of true or out of dish (possible because I had to replace some spokes).

My bike is a 1980s Raleigh Capri (which is a steel frame) with some minor mods and generally well kept.


texts:
Is there an adjustment which affects the amount of axle on each side of a front hub?

I have one wheel set, in which the front wheel does not center in the fork.  If I switch to another front wheel, that one does center properly in the fork. (Closing the quick release is difficult, one side of the fork gets pulled in). Therefore, I know the problem is not with the fork, but with this first wheel.  I suspect that something is wrong with the hub, and has been that way for the life of the wheel.

Is there an adjustment I can make to attempt to get the wheel to be properly centered in the fork?


texts: What is the best way to track your mileage, routes and calories burned?

texts:
Recently I got a new cyclocross bike and now I am daily commuting around 25km (not much, but daily) and I am trying to calculate my diet, calories etc.

Now I am wondering if there is a good device or an android app that I could use precisely for:

tracking routes
mileages
calories burned
data connects with popular apps/platforms or can be exported (that is a huge plus)!

I have HTC One (m7), its a great phone and I would prefer to use it instead of buying some additional device.

I am asking here because there are literally TONS of this stuff online and it just becomes so hard to identify what is actually useful, while you guys might suggest something :)


texts: When I am pedaling hard and shift to a larger sprocket, the shift is not smooth or sometimes doesn't happen at all. Sometimes even double up-shifts don't work. There is no problem shifting when I test for it without riding. What could be the issue?


texts:
I live in Florida which is flat and often windy. I am a light rider, weighing about 125 pounds (57 kilograms).

How significant is the wind push around for someone my size?

My wheels are Reynolds Strike SLG carbon clinchers 622mm

There are lots of cross and head winds here, had me down to 13.6 mph today for a bit! I am a triathlete and have a big race coming up in Panama City, Florida, and ready for some aero benefits. I normally ride in the 18-20mph zone.


texts: Safety data: Which is safer, head/tail lights which blink or emit a steady beam?

texts:
My head and tail lights can be set to blink or emit a steady beam of light.

I usually set my rear (red) light to blink, because I believe it makes me more visible at night. My friend argues that it makes it more difficult for motorists to judge how far away I am.

Are there any studies showing which is the safer way to use a tail light?


texts: How to change the seat clamp on a dropper post?

texts:
While trying to tighten the screws on the seat clamp on my wife's bike, I overtightened one of the screws, damaging both the screw and the seat clamp. (I had used a torque wrench and had set it to the recommended max torque of 3 Nm, but it didn't click/release on one of the screws for some reason - I'll be more careful next time...)

I now have a replacement seat clamp, but was wondering what the easiest way to replace the defective one was. The complexity is that the bike has a dropper seat post, which means that I'll have to pull the seat post out of the seat tube and then try to remove/reinstall the new clamp over the seat post cable. On my wife's bike, the cabling is routed internally in the frame.

Since the seat post remote's cable is already frayed out a bit at the end at the remote's end, I want to avoid removing the cable from the remote - I'm afraid that it will be difficult to get it back into the remote...

Is there an easy way to replace the seat clamp in this scenario? My current preferred way would be to unscrew the remote from the handle bar to give the cable enough slack for pulling the seat post out of the seat tube. Am I on the right track, or is there a better way?


texts: Has anyone got tips on spreading an old steel front fork to fit a more modern hub? I've got minimal tools. I thought a car jack might be a good way to go..


texts:
I've ridden a fixed gear bike for years now, but I've only just questioned if I have been doing something wrong when adjusting the chain.
You see, I have to tension the chain (pulling the rear wheel back) every now and then, roughly once a month because the chain becomes very loose with regular riding.
At first I tried to keep the chain as tight as possible, so that there's pretty much no latency in the pedals when the bike is stationary (don't know if this is the correct expression) but then I read somewhere that doing this with fixed gear bikes can damage the drivetrain, and you should actually have a little latency and thus a slightly loose chain.

In short, my questions are:
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?

Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?


texts: What if I choose replacement tires narrower than my current tires?

texts:
I have been looking for some tires I could buy but I couldn't find exact numbers (My current tires are 27.5 x 2.8)

I found one which was 27.5 x 2.10 or should I get one which is 27.5 x 2.1 Both of them are the same price but I don't know which one to get, can you please tell me?


texts: dual pivot side pull brake shoe touches wheel rim. How do I fix it?

texts:
Based on Sheldon Brown what I have on my front tire is the "Dual Pivot Sidepull" type brake. The right brake shoe touches the wheel without having to actually apply the brakes. The left has a small gap, and only touches the wheel when the brake is pulled as I would assume is expected behavior.

How exactly do I loosen it? Currently, I am riding on rollers, and I have rotated "up" the thingie (sorry I don't know the exact term . still learning the technical details) on the very left there, which has "loosened" the entire mechanism and now the brake shoes (obviously) do not touch the wheel rims anymore. But I can't really take it out on the road like this.

Which screws am I looking at loosening, or what exactly am I supposed to be doing to make sure the right brake shoe doesn't touch the wheel rim (while still being close enough to the rim that pulling on the brakes works correctly).


texts:
The chain of my bicycle slipped of the top sprocket and cause the derailluer case and hanger to bend. Anyone experienced this?

Edit - More Info:

I crashed a couple days ago before the derailleur got bent and after the crash, I realized that when I try to shift to the big sprocket stationary ,it sometimes will slip off and goes to the back of the cassette. I thought it won't be much of a problem and told myself just to not try and shift to the largest sprocket. But during that time when I was cycling, I tried to shift to the second largest sprocket but accidentally shifted too much and I think that caused the chain to slip to the back of the cassette.I was pedaling really hard at that time and I think that bent the derailleur.

The derailleur was really badly bent since it was facing up, I had to push it back to its original place as the bike would not move. After I did that, I saw that the cage plate (if I'm not wrong) was bent towards the spokes, applying pressure on to them, and making that ting ting sound. So I used some force to try and bend it back so I could go home. Now that I'm looking at it, I saw that the cage plate was both twisted and bent and the rollers are not aligned. The chain is also not on the top roller and is laying on the the cage plate.

Edit:Changed the rear ,working fine now. Thanks for all the help!


texts:
My MTB is making weird rattling noises in the rear.  What could be wrong?
I'm in Australia and my bike has sram components.
Picture:


texts: A road bike with bad tires to gravel bike upgrade

texts: I have a road bike with tyres that aren't that great I want to upgrade for more wider and gripper tyres any recommendations?I desperately need it.The old tyres are Triban Protect 700 x 28 tyres. Tyre weight: 440g Anti-puncture protection Supple carcass for light weight Max pressure: 8 bar /116 psi. 48mm Triban inner tube with Presta valve


texts:
Was wondering what heavy duty tires someone would recommend.  I have been using stock tires and they have blown a leak a number of times in the last six months.  Love the bike, just want more sturdy and fatter tires.  I live in pothole central and want something that can handle it.

http://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Phocus-Bicycle-Black-18-Inch/dp/B00AWNI07K/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

Any recommendations?  Thanks!


texts: Cheap energy sources for electronics during touring with low amount of sun energy?

texts:
My goal is to find a cheap energy sources for touring.

I cannot use solar all the time so I am planning to get Reelights outlined here, for lights, because they are cheaper than installing a hub generator. But the next problem is my laptop because it needs much more energy and I don't have much solar radiation at my latitude. I included the description about solar panel installation because I may need to use it with other energy sources which I am not aware of, perhaps gas, oil or something like that but they are expensive. So to the question:

Which cheap energy sources would you use during touring with low amount of sun energy?

One possible implementation to store energy

  The ten-watt solar panel (which weighs
  about a pound) lies on top of my
  panniers on the back of the bicycle (I
  carry my tent and sleeping bags in the
  front bags). As I ride, mostly in the
  sun, the panel produces current which
  runs through 12 5.7AH nicad cells,
  charging them during the day. After I
  stop for the night, I unplug the
  panel, and use the same plug to
  connect the battery to the computer
  via a Targus auto/air adapter.

  This setup requires me to carry the
  computer, an AC charger and the Targus
  DC charger, the solar panel, nicad
  cells and connector cord, a
  multimeter, and various nylon and
  plastic bags plus the computer case,
  with a total weight of seven pounds or
  less. (source)

Suggestions, some of which may be a solution

hub dynamo recommendations here for lighting
solar panels for electronics projects
moz suggests here to carry a solar panel but not diamond-framed
Amon suggests here a particularly interesting home-brew stuff that may lead to some kind of solution but with USB.
Darkcanuck outlines the situation with different choices here: sun, AA/etc charger and dynamo charger.
solar-powered Laptop during touring, more here.


texts: Very newbie question and possibly obvious. I've been looking at purchasing a Reynolds 531 (frame only) to create a single speed bike. Are the brakes, wheels, gearing etc universal among all 531 frames?


texts: Correcting the chainline on triple crankset with chainring spacers

texts:
I have Marin Four Corners bike with 3x9 Sora crankset (most likely FC-R3030) for which chainline is not given on Shimano site, but I've read all road cranksets have 45 mm chainline.

I would like to replace it with 3x9 Acera (FC-MT300-3) which has 50 mm chainline.

Since I would need to narrow down the chainline I am thinking about adding 5 mm spacer to biggest ring which should shift all the rings towards the frame. However this method is listed on Sheldown Brown as suitable only for single chainrings. Is it a simple omission or it is indeed not possible with 3 rings?

To avoid "whys" -- I need low gears with smooth shifting (ratio close to 1.1), this means tight cassette like 12-26 and small crankset.


texts: Redline BMX or is it Redline decals on something else?

texts:
I got this bicycle at a yard sale and thought it was a Redline BMX as that is what the decals on it are and same with head badge. Someone said it was not a Redline because the rear dropouts are not a Redline style. The original forks on it were genuine Redline forks as they had the RL stamp on the drops.

I had to replace forks with generic ones after the dealer had to cut the forks to get the headset off for an overhaul, because the plumb was rusted stuck inside. It says made in Taiwan on the headset and has Diamondback handlebars and grips. The serial number is on the rear dropout non chain side with another number on chain side rear drop out reading G0187 serial number is 7014544.

thanks for helping if you can!


texts:
I've ridden a recumbent a few times and noticed that going uphill is very, very slow. Given that recumbents are supposed to be more efficient than diamond frame bicycles, why are they so darn slow uphill?

Related: does "efficiency" mean something different when applied to recumbents?


texts: What would be the handling of a bike with reversed stem?

texts:
There are short and long stems:

  What effect does changing the stem length have on my bikes handling

There are flat bars and there are curved back bars for comfort upright position:

There even seem to exist bikes with no stem (apparently called "with forward geometry"):

But I have never, ever seen a bike with stem, going back from the headtube towards the rider. Such a setup would provide extremely wide wheelbase, which seems to be a good idea in some scenarios. Why is this geometry never used?


texts: Which will wear longer, a single chainring with 11-speed cassette, or triple chainring with 8-speed cassette?

texts: I am thinking of replacing the latter with the former. Someone said that the chain having to stretch 11 different ways would wear down the drive train faster. I think that the chain will last longer if it's not being thrown around at both ends. Who's right?


texts: Can I replace the 32 mm tires on a Trek 7.3 with 35 mm tires?

texts: When I bought a Trek FX 7.3 instead of the 7.2, the bike dealer told me that the tires were the same. They looked narrower, but I thought it was just that I was used to my other bike. I found out later that the FX 7.3 indeed has narrower 32 mm tires.  Can I put 35 mm tires on my FX 7.3?


texts:
I found these holes (as in the pictures) and wanted to know if it supports disk brakes or not.
I am upgrading the whole thing and calculating a budget.

Thank you in advance :)


texts: Would you recommend for a good grip from Shimano Nexus shifter? I hardly find a good option. Ergon grips seem to be the best choice.


texts: Dual shift levers, old bike and indexed gears

texts:
Long story:
 I once built a road bike for my wife over 30 years ago. It has Reynolds 531 tubing / 501 forks and alloy parts, so it is quite a decent build. However, my wife has been put off riding it again (after many years absence) as it has shift leavers on the down tube.  As a solution I've managed to get a pair of Shimano Tiegra levers. I've now installed these (after some cabling gynecology). The gears do work as, fortunately, do the brakes, but they are very clunky/jumpy. I suspecting a number of things are the issue!

A worn chain
Non indexed rear block (is there such a thing?)

The front chainset is an alloy TA double with plenty of miles left in the teeth.
The rear changer is a shimano DuraAce. There are 5 cogs on the back and the matching the Tiagra dual control

So ... recommendations/answers please!

Is there a means to tell if the rear block is/is not indexed.
I vaguely recall the recommendation that you always change to block/chain and front rings at the same time. Is this still true?
If I need to update the front cogs how do I find the correct fit the bottom bracket axle (if i need to buy online)? I'm suspecting this may be a pre metric bike as the wheels are 27" x 1.25"
Also, what is the best method for checking a worn chain!I do have quite a lot of experience with bike maintenance, but I'm a little rusty.!


texts: How can I develop my abs while I ride my bicycle?

texts: I have a mountain bike, and I wonder if I can develop my abs if I take my bike to work everyday.


texts: Are your touring-riding clothes a lot different than, let say, clothes for riding to work? Do you wear better or different clothes for touring? Have you found some good way to wash your clothes during touring? And how does washing affect your choice of clothing? How do you keep your touring clothes during touring? You surely need to separate dirty, clean and wet-clean clothes. How do you manage them? If you just washed your clothes in some sea and you need to continue riding, how do you guarantee that the water will evaporate? Do you choose your clothes in a way that they get dry fast? Which criteria you have for touring clothes?


texts: How do I clean the inside of my frame? Is it even necessary?

texts:
I'm trying to fix up a bike that has been abandoned outside for a while. When I first turned it upside down, rust brown water started coming out of holes in frame around the rear stays.

I've fixed it up so the outside looks great, but I'm wondering if this standing water could've done much damage, and how I can clean and lube it up to keep it in good condition for as long as possible.


texts: When does a trackstand "officially" ends (or how to measure its duration?)

texts:
Trackstands (a trick in which a rider, usually on a fixed-gear bike, keeps balanced with zero speed, by pedalling back and forth with minimum displacement) can be employed either on the track or on the streets, mainly at traffic lights.

In the track, the rider can slow down and create a hard time for an opponent. On the traffic light, one can keep himself on the bike and be ready to go. That makes the trick "desireable", so it is either regulated on official events, and used itself for "trackstand competitions", mostly in the fixie subculture.

What I have to ask is:

What are the UCI criteria for the judge to stop the countdown for trackstand duration?
What are the criteria traditionally used on informal competitions for taking a "competitor" out?
What SHOULD BE a reasonable way to tell when a rider degenerated from a correct trackstand to something else (forward or backward movement, too large a change in position, etc.)?

Thanks for reading!


texts: Titanium frame has a crack - advice needed

texts:
I've found a Titanium bike frame on eBay. It's very cheap and the owner says that it has a very small crack on the seat tube where it connects to a bottom bracket. See in the image above:

I've never gone for titanium frames. How bad is this damage, and what is likely to happen in the future - will it get worse?


texts: My left pedal keeps falling off, I think it's loose, or I'm not tightening it properly, but every time I ride my bicycle it gets loose.


texts: top tube angle on steel and carbon road bikes

texts:
You generally see the top tube on steel bikes being parallel to the ground, whereas on a lot of carbon bikes it's angled. Why is that?

(my observations are obviously limited, but it seems like a trend)

Pictures for comparison:


texts: Broke the lid cover of my Shimano Deore combi hydraulic brake reservoir. Repair options?

texts:
Crashed.
I thought I escaped unscathed but turns out I broke the plastic lid and from a vintage bike there's no one selling the entire combi levers or just the lid itself. (in shops locally, I saw on ebay but with shipping, it aint worth the cost)
It's on a 3x9 speed XC bike with XT parts ..

friends are egging me on for a 10 spd upgrade but I am not ready to shell out more cash on a 2 week old (2nd hand bike)

what do you guys think I should do?

fyi my combi levers look like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SHIMANO-DEORE-XT-9x3-BICYCLE-SHIFTERS-HYDRAULIC-BRAKE-LEVERS-M765-/151247697679


texts: Why would spokes break at the flange early?

texts:
I have a professionally-built Rohloff wheel, 32-spoke, symmetrical, laced to Velocity Dyads with Sapim Race spokes, disc brakes. It is about six years old, built in 2011; but I mostly just use it when I go touring, so only about 5,000-6,000 miles on it. Always seemed very true, never wrecked, no unusual events.

On a recent tour, a spoke broke while I was stopped, eating lunch. I replaced it and tried to match its tension to the other spokes by tone-when-plucked. Next day, another spoke broke while riding on smooth pavement. I'd only had one spare spoke, so I rode for another kilometer or so minus one spoke, but that really put the wheel out of true. I walked until I found a kindly stranger gave me another 2mm straight-gauge spoke of about the same length.

When I put that replacement in, I de-tensioned all the spokes by about half a turn (thinking "maybe these spokes are too tight"), very carefully tried to equilibrate tension on all of them by tone, and trued out the deflection caused by riding minus one spoke. I finished the tour, maybe another 550 miles, like that, no more spoke breaks.

I'm going to re-spoke the wheel -- I don't trust any of the spokes in it anymore. But I'm also trying to determine a cause here. I don't want to have this happen again. Other points:

Rohloff pointed out that there was a bad batch of Sapim Race spokes at one point. Sapim says that batch was not in 2011, when these wheels were built (various internet posts make it look like that was 2014).
Rohloff support was like "sounds like a spoke problem, can't help you." (fair enough)
Sapim was like "doesn't sound like a spoke problem, can't help you" (no I don't understand that logic either)
My wheel builder has a good reputation but for whatever reason has not been responding to calls or emails, so no information there.
The breaks are 6mm and 13mm from the neck bend. So around the hub flange. Pictures below; I lost one of the spoke heads.

Any ideas on cause? My initial theory was that it was built too tight, but most advice online (and Rohloff support, and Velocity support who I also emailed) says that'd be unusual. I guess I just can rebuild and hope for the best, but it would be nice to have some sense of causation so as to prevent this from happening again.


texts: Going on a long distance bike tour: what kit do I need?

texts:
I am going on a long distance bike tour and I am looking for advice as to the kind of equipment / bike set up I should use? I don't have a huge budget so what are the absolutely critical aspects I should invest my budget into?

(edit)
I have a mountain bike modified for touring, with XT running gear, Sunn Rhynolyte rims, Brooks saddle. But I want to get lighter wheels, more comfortable bars, and I'm considering a hub gear box.

I am planning on cycling across East China to Japan.

Would mostly be on the road, with some diversions down small side tracks.

Budget is about £3500.


texts:
A bike I am taking back from a single speed (SS) to  multi speed
(like ss - bought another ss)

Used 9 speed SRAM 7 that I got cheap

I am just going to stay single in the front
That is a Race Face 34 (ss designed ring)

My problem is chain line
In first it will jump off the front chain ring to the inside
It does fine in second gear

As you can see there is one spacer on font crank right
There are two on the left
It was two on the right and I flopped that - got me 2nd gear
All three on the left did not seem like a good ideal - left would barely get some threads

Tried putting a spacer on the inside of the cassette but there is absolutely no room
I can barely get the cassette on with no spacer

Short of a chain keeper are there any ideas?

I am not opposed to a chain keeper but I want to also fix the chain line.

Picture does show the problem very well
In 3rd (from smallest) the chain line is straight where on a 9 speed that should be 5th


texts: Concerns with different brake types for the front and the rear wheel

texts:
I'm considering adding a disc fork to my surly cross check and using some avid bb7 road brakes for the front. I've got tektro road levers on drop bars (outfitted with retroshift shifters)  I've got all the gear, so cost is negligible.  The frame is not built for disc brakes, so I would leave my cantilever brakes on the rear.

I know the modulation and grab will be different for the brakes.  Should I be concerned about having different types of brakes on this bike?


texts: Carbon foot print from the manufacture of bikes?

texts:
It was said on National Public Radio in the US that in most cases the carbon foot print from the exhaust off your old car would be less in a life time then carbon footprint to manufacture new cleaner car for you. So unless you are going from V8 to a hybrid it is better just to repair it for the Earth.

That made me think how far do you have to travel on a bike to equal out the carbon foot print it takes to make a bicycle or an electric bike?


texts: How does stiffness affect experience and performance?

texts:
I see many mountain bike reviews and articles discuss the stiffness of frames, forks, wheels and other components.
Here are some questions which cross my mind:

What is the definition of stiffness?
How do you measure stiffness?
How does stiffness affect riding experience and performance?


texts: Can I fit a bigger cassette just by changing the hub and not getting a new wheel?

texts: I have an old 29er that came with a 7 speed shimano tourney groupset, can I replace that with a 9-10 speed new set, just by getting new hubs? or the wheel cant handle that setup? the frame needs to be "prepared" for that change too?


texts: Leave a bicycle in the rain for a day - is it safe?

texts:
I use my bike (gt avalanche 1.0) to commute to work. Now it's autumn and so rain can happen just every day.

So the questions are: is leaving my bike outside harmful? Should take the seatpost with me or better leave it in place?


texts: Need some help identifying my new project

texts:
I need some help identifying my new project. I  would like to get new decals for it.

Only 'CICL' left on headbadge, can't figure out what's left on the down tube.

Numbers stamp on bottom bracket 52.

Campagnolo shifters, derailleurs, stamped Campy rear dropouts, front forks. Campy hubs with Mavic tubular rims. Dura-ace headset, Madolo Pro brakes, 3ttt (Italy) handlebar and stem.

What's your best guess? Ane suggestion is it is a Vanni Losa frame.

Thanks


texts: Can I fit a 32-630 tire on a 20-622 rim?

texts:
I know that the width difference might present problems later on, but if I understand correctly then it should be possible. The bike isn't meant to be used in high performance circumstances, just the city.

However, if I understand correctly, the tire would have a larger diameter than the rim. Is that likely to cause me much trouble?

tl;dr If I have a 32-630 tire and a 20-622 rim, can I make the combination work?


texts: Single speed conversion chain keeps derailing rear cog under load?

texts: The chain on my SS mt bike keeps coming off the rear cog under load (like when I hit a steep hill) it will hold right after it's tightened but after a few hills it starts coming off non-stop. Talked to the LBS they so far are just telling me to tighten the tensioner, I was thinking i might need a bigger rear cog for more "chain wrap" any advice.


texts:
I bought a new commuter bike (Marin Muir Woods 29er) and some clipless shoes that are "walkable" DZR Shoes 'Midnight' so I don't have to carry bike cleats around with me.  However, when I ride I often get a tingling in the ball of my foot

What are the common causes for this?  I was thinking shoe may be too big (I wear 10.5 US and picked up size 45 EU for the new shoes) as my heel picks up easily while walking around. Others mentioned moving the cleat back, but it already is pretty far back in the shoe.  I read the cleat should ideally be directly under the ball of the foot, is that not correct?

Any other insights to help alleviate this tingling/numbness would surely be appreciated.


texts: On my bike I have SRAM Rival levers paired to TRP Spyre C mechanical disc brake calipers. I'd like to tune them to "brake harder"; currently, I have to press more than half of the way on order to start braking. I can't find any way to do that. I could change that directly on the cable on the brake, but there ought to be a better way.


texts:
I'm a cycling beginner and am trying to purchase spare inner tubes from amazon. The tube sizes are usually given as:

20-622 - 25-630
27x3/4 - 27x1.00
700x20c - 700x25c

How should I understand these? What unit does 25c represent?


texts:
I was looking at building a Cart/cargo for attaching to the back of my bike.
Are you guys aware of any DIY kits or manufacturers that can  build it to my specifications.
I did look at some on the market, but they all seemed to be limited and are of less dimensions. I was looking for building something about 1.5*1*1(Length width and height).
Thanks for any suggestions!


texts:
I'm looking for what's available in terms of navigation for long distance rides.

I will hopefully be doing some cycling around Europe in the coming summer, and would like to be able to know that I'm not going to get lost.

I'm open to all solutions, be it GPS navigation or strapping a map and compass to my handlebars!

What are the pros and cons of my options and what is most workable?


texts:
Although I have read Sheldon Brown's All About Bicycle Chainline article I'm still struggling to understand a key point.

If you are running a different chainline to the manufacturers (new crankset) can this be adjusted for in spacing of the rear axle? Essentially the question is, does the frame drive the chainline or the components and set up?


texts: I want to turn my bike into a motorized one, but i can't get engine clearance because the 2 tubes in the picture are so wide on my bike. I was wondering if I cut those tubes and replace them with thinner tubes will the bike still be safe to ride?


texts:
I've got a Kindshock Dropzone seatpost with a single bolt clamp.

Even if I screw the bolt in hard the saddle will always slide to the back.

Any way to prevent it? It's pretty annoying.


texts: Why do disc brakes stop faster in dry conditions?

texts:
I have heard that bikes with disc brakes have shorter stopping distances even in dry conditions, such as the comparison in this video:
GCN - How Much Faster Can You Stop With Disc Brakes?
At about 1:30, on a dry gravel road, the bike with disc brakes stops 2 meters sooner:

My understanding based on car tires is that stopping distance is a function of the tires' traction with the ground and whether the driver/ABS can avoid locking up the wheels (source). While there are higher end cars with fancier braking (e.g. disc brakes on all wheels, or bigger brakes), the main benefit is dissipating heat faster under repeated braking.
Is it because disc brakes allow wider tires which have a bigger contact patch? Or do I have an incorrect assumption - maybe stopping distance is not traction limited in bikes? Thank you.


texts:
What should I take in consideration as an important feature(s) for a touring bicycle?

My goal is to use it for long distance trips and eventually work commuting.


texts:
So two days ago I bought this Peugeot vintage bike (from the '80s) and it has tubular tires on it that aren't usable anymore.
Is it possible to install a normal tire on the same rim instead? I'm a student and don't have a budget to buy tubular tires and from what I saw the installation was complicated with the glue n stuff.

Thanks in advance.


texts: DIY wooden bike rack -- looking for plans

texts:
I'm planning to build a bike rack to store several bikes on the floor of my garage. Does anyone have plans for such a rack? We have a circular saw and a drill and the usual hand tools, but no router, so nothing too fancy, please! Something that can be made inexpensively from 2x4's and 1x3's would be ideal.

Edit: Hanging bikes on the walls isn't an option for me, I'm looking for floor rack designs only.

Edit2: After Gary.Ray's answer below, I came up with this:


texts: Can Press-Fit Bottom Brackets be used in a Threaded frame

texts: I recently tried to replace an sealed cartridge bottom bracket with a threaded hollowtech system.  In the process I shredded one of the threads and can't get the hollowtech cup in.  After some study I noticed pressfit bottom brackets are compatible with hollowtech.  Is it possible to install a pressfit BB into a threaded frame?


texts: Should internal brake cables use ferrules at the entry point to the frame?

texts: I recently got a titanium frame with internal cabling. The holes where the brake housing enters the frame are just big enough to fit a ferrule. Should I use ferrules or is it OK for the cable housing to go directly into the frame without them?


texts:
Right now, I have a pretty old and terrible fork: 2006 Manitou Axel Elite 100. It's leaking oil like crazy, and I've almost eaten it a few times because of how easy it is to bottom out the forks. I pretty much have to ride with lockout on.

So my question is what would it take to repair them so that they are usable? Would it even be worth it?

If I just need to get a new fork, what should I get? I haven't needed to upgrade anything for a while, so I'm out of date on everything. I really don't want to spend more than $150, but I'm fine buying used. Is there something besides Ebay I should look?


texts: MTB Why are 29ers considered better then the legacy 26'' or 27'' tires?

texts:
this is my first time here however I am a long time stackexchange user.
I am planning to get a new MTB. Haven't ride for a long time 10y ago, as a kid I was always riding a MTB (I had an old low budget MTB and I don't want to ride it anymore).

I was considering to get this bike:
http://www.cube.eu/en/bikes/mtb-hardtail/analog/analog-29-black-grey/

As you can see it's a 29er. Basicly I wanted to get 27.5 or 26 however at every store at my country they are telling me that 29ers are the best.
Can anyone of you more experienced users tell me why should I prefer 29'' tires?

Also what can you tell me about the bike? I don't have much experience since my last ride on a mtb was about 10y ago.

This bike is 720eu at my country and I am getting it at a 20% (570eu) discount and this is as high as possible for my budget.
So am i getting something worthy for the price?


texts: Which grease should be used between plastic and bearings?

texts: I have taken apart an older Shimano 105 brake calliper, there are tiny bearings that sit inside the piece of plastic as shown in the image. Is 'standard' teflon bike grease appropriate here, or should silicone grease be used. As I understand it, the chemical composition of certain grease can cause degradation to plastic over time. I know that silicone is good for plastic, but is it good to use with bearings?


texts:
I have a fixed gear bike, Rocky Mountain Boroughs Fixie (see picture).
The chain is very tight compared to any free wheel bike. So anytime the tire gets punctured (unfortunately very often) and I want to dismount the wheel, I have to remove the chain by using a chain tool.
The question is: does anyone know of some trick to replace the tube without doing all of this?


texts: I have a 700x35c rear rim, it's bent pretty bad, but only can find 700x38c rims, is that ok to use? Or should I keep hunting for the same size rim?


texts: Surly Trucker Disc Compatibility with Ryde Taurus Rims

texts:
Is it possible to put these Rims (Ryde Taurus 21 Disc: 26', 21-559) on this frame (Surly Trucker Disc)? I just cannot find any hint at the Surly Trucker description, but since I am not a native and new to bikes I might have missed something.

By the way, I want to use a Shutter Precision PD-8 hub but I think if the Ryde Taurus fits and I know the Shutter fits into the Ryde I can use it as long as the Ryde Taurus can be used.


texts: Parafin wax vs wet lube for bike chain lubrication?

texts:
So im thinking of waxing my chain (with parafin wax) what would the advantages of this be over wet lube (i use muck off). Anybody have any experience with waxed chains?

Thanks.


texts:
I consistently get soreness/inflammation in the knuckles of my right hand the day after even short rides (e.g. 16km yesterday, with a ~2h break in the middle). Bike is a Scott Speedster with Tiagra 4500 STI levers.
Applying some mechanistic reasoning (and from the feeling in my fingers when I'm foolish enough to ride with them still slightly inflamed), it's likely to be from shifting to the larger cogs in the back. I realize that modern levers are supposed to be lighter to shift and therefore older ones require more force and this could be a contributing factor, but I literally cannot find a single other complaint like mine online. All I'm able to come up with is complaints about hands/fingers tingling/going numb. At this point I figure it's either bad technique or bad equipment, am I missing other possibilities? How do I tell which one the problem is?


texts: Aero Wheels, Velocity Wheels. Does it really matter?

texts:
Of course, they look pretty. But what I do not understand is: How will having taller rims or  composite wheels improve a ride? Is the increase in efficiency drastic enough to make you think twice while changing rims? Or is it really not that necessary with the cash it demands, for a tiny bit of improvement?

PS: I tried to find out about this on the internet, but I have found bulky articles about them, so frankly I didn't read them and decided to ask here.