texts: My boy uses a bike for work all was fine until yesterday when he went to use it the pedals and chain go around ok but the back wheel doesn’t move


texts: Well I am planning to ride to California from Indiana. I was wondering if there are any cost effective bicycle upgrages that may help increase the endurance of the bicycle and or the overall speed.


texts: Should I put grease on the surfaces of a back pedal internal brake?

texts:
When servicing a back pedal brake hub, should I put some grease on the internal brake surfaces or not?

Is grease good because it makes the brake run smooth, or bad because it makes it slip and not work so good?


texts: Accommodation (or "breaking in") of cycling shoes

texts:
I recently decided to switch to cleats on my technical bike, and I have bought leather mtb shoes.

Based on previous experience with leather trekking shoes, I know that the first 3-4 days (about 40-50 hours) wearing the shoes will feel uncomfortable, until the leather adjusts to the shape of the foot.

So far I have used the shoes for a couple of hours (non-stop) with no complaints, but I would like to have them broken in before a long trip I am going to start in a couple of weeks.

Will wearing the shoes during my daily commute to work (40-50 minutes each way) do the trick, or do I need to wear them non-stop for longer time?


texts:
I have some back issues and my doctor recommended to use a bike with a chair  instead of a seat post. I have a old bike that I used for a trainer. I plan to cut the front part of it, turn the remaining part around (so the pedals turn in the right direction) and build a seat in front of it.
I'm trying to build the seat in front of it, to use as an indoor training rig.
Here is a simple schematic:

However, I'm having trouble figuring out the exact geometry of the seat. Can anyone recommend some resources/plans ?
The D size is fixed, I cant cut more from the bike seat post to lower it. I'm interested in determining the A angle, and the B/C sizes.
Edit:
Just went ahead and cut everything from the bike except the rear wheel support and the pedals. First mistake: cut the D part too low, the pedals hit the ground.
However, after cutting, and sticking a 20mm board under D, it's almost usable with a kitchen chair.  Only problem is that the trainer gets away from you when you push on the pedals, and lack of back support.
HTH


texts: What is the significance of rear travel of a frame?

texts:
Every suspension frame has the the following two parameters: shock travel and rear axle travel at maximum shock compression. I have a lot of questions, regarding those two:

What are they properly called?
They seem related, however for the same shock travel the rear travel can differ. I would intuitively guess that long rear travel for short shock travel would be best. However, this is not the case (I saw an expensive frame with less rear travel than a cheap frame). So what shock and rear travel would I want for different types of mountain riding?


texts: What type of grease to prevent seat post sticking?

texts: What type of grease should I buy specifically to prevent the seat post from getting stuck in the seat tube? I believe its aluminum.  Is there all-purpose grease that I can use for other parts of the bike?  This is an older, inexpensive bike that I need to last for another few years.


texts: Do all stems have the same stack height for the steerer tube clamp?

texts: Does the height of the steerer tube clamp differ between stems, or is there one standard height used on all modern mountain bike stems? In my particular case I want to replace the stem on a mountain bike with a shorter one, but can I pick any other threadless stem and have it fight right on without needing any more/less spacers etc.?


texts: I assambled rear wheel hub, but now rear wheel is not turning freely

texts: I disassambled/assambled rear wheel hub, but now rear wheel is not turning freely, what have i done wrong?


texts: Hearing a consistent high pitch noise that matches my cadence

texts: I've been cycling on my Trek Emonda S4 for about 530 km so far and I've noticed a high-pitched but quiet sound while I'm out. It increases in volume and pitch as I increase my cadence. I'm concerned I could be doing some damage to it. The crankset is my suspicion. Is it possible that I haven't lubricated it properly or often enough?


texts:
I'm looking to buy a new aero brake, after the noodle holder on my old set has snapped (and apparently i need to replace the whole thing).
Problem is that i can't find the model anywhere.  I've looked at the trp T925 and trp 925.1, but I'm pretty sure that it's not the same.
As a starting point, it came from a felt b16 (2016/2017 i think) (responses from their european branch have been limited, i assume due to the current climate).
Here are some pictures:

Any help is appreciated!


texts: Does Abus print blind bitting codes on their D-Lock bikes (or do thieves go through the trouble to

texts:
I've got several YourPlus Abus locks (all keyed the same) so that I can have one key for basically all the family bikes.  The other day I noticed that one of my D-Locks had a plastic part missing, namely where the Abus logo is usually placed.  Behind where the logo once was you see the solid metal of the meat of the lock.  There is a 7 digit number there.
As it's trivially easy to get a fifty dollar lock keyed to the same yourplus code as mine (if you know my code) and then steal my bike, I'm hoping someone can help me sleep better at night by telling me that it's in no way related to the bitting values of the lock.
Lock in question is the Granit 640.

Yes, I've contacted the manufacturer asking the same question but haven't heard back yet.


texts: Does anyone know the model and year of this giant?

texts: I was wanting to know what year and model this giant is. Looking into buying and also wanted to know what size wheels I could fit on it was hoping to put bigger tires on.


texts:
Winter is coming. I found that when commuting—or just riding—in cold conditions (say -10 Celsius), the skin on my face becomes too dry, red, and itchy.

What can I do to prevent this?

I've tried using buff as a mask, but had no luck: due to the air I breathe out, this mask freezes quickly and makes things even worse. I'm not asking about masks only; maybe there are some gels to apply on the skin?


texts: Are there v-brakes with long reach between the fork boss and the pad?

texts: I'm planning to upgrade my rims from 305mm to 349mm. However, it seems that most v-brakes have a max distance of 1" from the fork boss to the center of the pad. Are there v-brakes that have a reach of say, 48mm?


texts: Studies comparing motorway vs bike lane costs

texts:
I am trying to find a study, which I've read sometime ago, which compared the cost/Km of a motorway vs a cycle lane.
I don't know the exact picture I've seen but I have the idea the study was from Canada and the conclusion was 1 km of motorway costs the same as 300 km of cycle lane.
If someone can inform where I can get again study, many thanks. If not possible I will appreciate some other studies about the same subject.


texts: The bike shop won't fix my newly bought bike

texts: I bought a new bike, a trek MTB marlin 7, and for the first moment (a week later) it started having issues, it was clicking awfully, the pedals broke, the brakes were rubbing, the mudguard broke which I noticed they attached with little plastic things and holes drilled; I got it mostly fixed but clicking didn't go away, I brought the bike around 6 times to the bike shop for them to fix the horrible clicking that came from the back, every time it was a temporary fix, then they said they changed the freewheel and it went away and I thought I finally got a breath, guess what the clicking is coming back, this time creaking too, I don't want to go for seventh time to the bike shop, I just would like to get rid of the bike at this point and have my money back. I honestly don't know if this is normal, this is my first bike, any advice?...


texts:
I'm rebuilding an older Mercier and have decided to tackle the bottom bracket. I've read a few articles and watched a few videos on how to remove the crank but none of them look anything like what I've got on this bike.

Basically, there are bolt threads on one side and a 'nub' on the other side that would indicate that this is what I would remove the crank arm with, but I'm not having any luck removing the bolt.

I've attached a picture as I'm sure I'm probably not using the correct terms for some of these parts.


texts: new hand built wheel - loud spoke shivering sound when bounce unloaded

texts:
I've mounted a new hand built wheelset (XR270 with novatec 171/172) on my cyclocross bike and bounced it off ground for a few inches unloaded to check for any rattling of the new wheel (way to check spoke tightness??), and have heard quite a loud shivering sound coming out from the spokes.  no such sound after I put my old wheelset back on.

The wheel seems true and no problem during test ride, but I'm worry about the sound and wonder would it because of poor spoke tension during wheel building, and how to rectify the problem.

Any thoughts /advice are welcome.  Thanks


texts: How do different frame materials affect the handling of a bike?

texts:
I can appreciate that some materials are lighter than others and some have more flex than others, but overall, how do different frame materials affect handling of the bike?

Assuming the same geometry and design. What are the main handling characteristics of each of the below common frame materials?

Aluminium alloy
Carbon Fibre
Steel
Titanium


texts: How do I train to gain Tony Martin/Fabian Cancellara/Bradley Wiggins esq abilities to turn over a big gear 58t, 11t,?

texts: Assuming you had access to a power meter and a heart rate monitor. What sort of training would you do?


texts: Should a cross-threaded (but functional) freehub body be considered safe?

texts:
I cross-threaded my cassette lock-ring on a pair of Fulcrum racing 4 DBs (aluminum threads AFAIK). Upon removing the cassette it looked like the top of the threads were slightly damaged, but I was able to put the lock-ring on correctly and tighten it properly.

Should I consider the fact that the threads were still usable evidence enough that it's fine, or does it need to be replaced?


texts:
I had to quit cycling a couple of years ago and now I am back. I started cycling to university 9 miles one way which took me 1.30 hour. I know it's longer than what it should be, but I've just started.

I want your advice please: what food should I look for healthy energy?  I can't walk now, my knee kills me ... is that normal?

Any other advice?


texts:
This is might be trivial for someone who actually have a one, but after countless hours reading and watching about the Rohloff speedhub I can't answer this question myself.

AFAIK the OEM grip shifter is not the most loved feature of the system. It can't be used with drop handlebars, - as all other grip shifters - it is slippery when wet, and it is not a trigger shifter. So far I have found 23 quirky ways to overcome the handlebar issue, and one trigger shifter review.

My first idea would be just to use a one-cable (maybe indexed) friction shifter, and some counter pull mechanism on the other end of the cable to replace the second cable. Seeing the how much effort has gone into mounting or replacing the original shifter, there should be something why this won't work.

So why? Why there is no friction shifter available for this hub?


texts: Tyre popped when going from 26 x 1.95 to 26 x 2.125

texts:
My wheel had 26 x 1.95 tyres. I bought 26 x 2.125 thinking it would fit.

While fitting the new tyre, it bulged outside at one location and the tube also came out for about 7 inches. The tube is the one with slime sealant inside so I am not able to take the air out of tube. I ordered the valve core tool to remove the valve. The tube is also relatively new, I bought it about couple of months back.

My questions are

can I reuse the tube after the removing the valve and deflate the tube ?
can the tyre be used or it is not fitting, that is why it bulged in one place ?


texts: Why is the swingarm design uncommon / rare on full suspension bicycles?

texts:
While watching a snow biking video, I saw that some of the bikes use a true swingarm design, which matches most motorcycles (as does much of bicycle technology). While this looks rather interesting, I'm wondering why it's so uncommon (and much more common are multi-linkage, seemingly more complex designs)?

I've found the bicycle he was riding, a Chumba F5, shown here:

Upon more searching, it's also used on Mountain Cycle Fury Frames and Motoped Kits as well, but an overwhelming majority do not use this design.

If I had to guess, I'd say it was solely weight concerns to not use this design with less moving parts. It also (seems to) allow for more travel, so is there perhaps an upper limit on how much travel you can get with the multi-linkage design?

Further, I've seen the Y-Frames (especially on BSOs) criticized for having poor flex characteristics. Does it again just come back to the weight issue in that more reinforcement is required for these designs?


texts: Which bolt to use when aligning disc brakes?

texts:
I am struggling with a rubbing disc rotor on a new bicycle. Which bolts should I use when trying to align the caliper? The ones I marked in red, or the blue ones?

I tried to use the red ones so far, but could not get rid of the rubbing. The rotor looks true, but the space on each side is extremely tight.

Later I realized that the lower blue bolt is simply not accessible. The space is too tight to fit a screwdriver. However, should I encounter a similar situation in the future, where the calipers are held on a bracket with accessible screws: Should one adjust the caliper on top of the bracket? Or should one adjust the bracket on the fork?


texts:
I have a new 199.99 Schwinn I got from Wal-Mart a few months ago.

Just the other day, a lady didn't stop for me and knocked me off my bike. The front wheel was stuck under her SUV, rest of the bike is fine. Now, it's still rideable but has a bent rim that wobbles when I ride.

Is there a way to repair by straightening it rather then replacing it?


texts: Are Ultegra brifters compatible with 10-speed XT Dyna-Sys derailleurs?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Road Shifters, Mountain Rear Derailleur?

I'm looking to build a hardtail mountain bike with drop bars for commuting, touring and some occasional light off-road adventures.

Are 10-speed Shimano brifters like the Ultegra ST-6600 compatible with the 10-speed Dyna-Sys XT derailleurs?

Thanks.


texts: Safety of separated bike lanes in less dense areas

texts:
I've read it's safer to ride a bike on the street than the sidewalk. It's been covered on this site: Is it really safer to ride in the road than on the sidewalk? Also, Redit has a good list of specific studies.
I've also read that separated bike lanes improve safety. For example, this streetsblog.org article cites a study of 12 major cities. It has this image which I'd agree is representative of the kind of separated bike lane one might find in large cities:

But "separated bike lane" could also mean something like this, from the Massachusetts DOT:

To me, these two things are very different kinds of bike lanes. A problem with sidewalks is motorists aren't habituated to looking for cyclists because they are encountered so rarely. In a big urban bike lane, this is hardly a problem. Look at all those cyclists! But in a less dense area such as the 2nd picture, I'm skeptical that what amounts to painting a bicycle on the sidewalk does much to reduce conflicts between motorists and cyclists.
Regardless, I've read many claims that "separated bike lanes are safer for all users" which don't distinguish between these two cases.
What studies have been done on separated bike lane safety, especially in cities of less than 100,000 people or in suburban areas? Are separated bike lanes indeed safer for cyclists in these conditions? Are particular bike lane designs safer than others for less dense environments?


texts: Is a recumbent trike faster than a non-recumbent bicycle?

texts:
I am seriously considering getting a recumbent trike, probably one in a tadpole configuration, and was weighting up how much time I would save during my commute when compared to my normal bike.

Currently, I ride Giant Cypress and my speed averages about 22kmh on my commute. My commute is about 16kms, one way, and is over a mixture of forest trails and asphalt bike paths.

I am also thinking about using the recumbent bike over the winter months as well.


texts: Changing Scott Scale 960 2019/2020 rear hub to thru-axle?

texts: I'm interested to buy Scott Scale 960, but I would like to change rear hub from QR to 10 or 12mm thru-axle. Is it possible with or without changing rear hub? What kind of hub would it fit in case it would be needed to change?


texts: Has anyone ever used the Spiderflex seat on a roadbike?

texts:
I use a spiderflex seat on my mountain bike, and I would like to use this on a road bike.  Has anyone ever done this, or something similar?

I am 5'10" and 165 lbs (reasonably fit).

Yes, I know the 'the saddle horn is used for steering.....'  - but the spiderflex on my MTB annihilates chafing and discomfort. And I do about 20 miles a day on the spiderflex with ZERO - absolute ZERO pain or chafing.

I know I will forfeit cornering and maneuverability without a horn.  Has anyone ever used such a seat successfully on a ROAD BIKE?
Thanks.


texts: I currently have a 2006 Cannondale Prophet 1000, that I use for trail riding. I would like to upgrade the Manitou Swinger rear shock I have. How do I know which shocks will work with my bike? Is there a guide to choosing a shock that will fit best?


texts: I am thinking of buying a new mountain bike, but I'm unfamiliar with mountain bikes. That's why I need to be well aware of the pressure a mountain bike can handle. How much pressure can mountain bike tires take?


texts: Changing my rear wheel tyre from 26 x 2.1 to 26 x 2.0: what's the difference?

texts: Firstly, would a 26 x 2.0 tyre fit, and would there be a noticeable difference compared to my original tyre? (I am going from 2.10 to 2.0)


texts: How to bike with less stress on the calves

texts:
I have a condition called functional PAES, which is caused by the calf muscles compressing the popliteal artery. My doctor recommended activities that would not put much stress on the calves, and while biking may not be ideal, it is much better than walking or running. Do you know tips or techniques to would make me depend less on calf muscles when riding?

The two changes I have made so far are:

Adjusting the seat to be lower than it should be.
Pedaling with the instep of the foot, never with the sole.

Do you agree that those changes will reduce the stress on the calves (even if they make my pedaling more inefficient)?

p.s. PAES is a very rare condition, and it is very hard for me to find support in the real-world in the country where I live, so I have no other choice than figuring out by myself how to live with it. It is definitely possible to change the lifestyle to handle functional PAES, see this ballet dancer case study for example.


texts:
I'm purchasing a new seat-post as my saddle refused to stay at the same angle with my current one; it was a second hand bike (B'Twin Triban 500) with a single bolt clamp. I'm going to switch to a two bolt clamp to try and fix the situation, and hopefully get the right angle!

However, I can't find any information on whether to use grease or threadlock on the bolts. I use grease on most bolts, and don't actually have any threadlock; I believe I'd be looking to get Loctite Blue-243 or Blue-242 if I needed it? Furthermore, is there a difference between threadlock and anti-seize?

Thanks!


texts: Should I rotate the tires on a (grown-up) trike?

texts:
I have a recumbent tadpole trike (though maybe this would apply to any style). Its two front wheels have a few degrees of inwards lean. The rear is of course perfectly vertical.

I've read in another question that for bicycles its not generally needed to rotate tires, and that any uneven wear may not matter much.

But on a trike the tires aren't changing their angle to the ground... and I think all three would normally wear differently.

Should I rotate them? Or reverse them? If so, how many miles would be a good rule of thumb?

Would the answer /advice be any different if there was no inward lean?


texts:
I just bought a new 11 speed Shimano chain online. The wide end of the chain had a flat pin half sticking in, I tried to use a chain tool to release it a bit allowing for more room to connect the other end of the chain. Instead I accidentally removed it completely.

Now I can't get it back in like the other chain connectors. Do I need a Shimano chain Connector or is there another way to do it?

Can I just get some of the left over chain and add it to the other end getting rid of the part with the pin I knocked out or is it required?

Thanks


texts: Can you put a kickstand on the righthand side?

texts:
Kickstands are always on the left, likely because gears occupy the righthand side.  Has anyone had success with installing a kickstand on the right side?

After using my left-side pannier routinely for six years, I've noticed that my left leg might be a bit stronger (or at the very least, provides better balance in yoga).  To switch it up, I now load up the right pannier.  But without the kickstand to provide counter-balance, my bike inevitably topples over at every stop.

I ride a 1970s Schwinn Le Tour with a hefty touring rack.


texts: Will cycling off-the-trainer with the trainer's steel skewer damage my bike?

texts:
I recently bought a cyclops trainer. It is annoying to switch the skewers. I know the steel skewer that came with the trainer is heavier and stronger, but I don't know if it will damage my bicycle off of the trainer.

I do know that riding on the trainer with my normal skewer will wreck the normal ones.


texts: I want to replace 52/36  chainrings with 50/34 chainrings on a Praxis Works. Is this possible without changing the crank? Also if possible would other modification be required such as the chain and possible the  front derailleur


texts: Is it possible to reattach the v-brake spring/pin arm?

texts:
I was fitting new brake pads to my (mini) v brakes and stupidly pushed one of the arms very far inward to get easier access.

The spring (actually I'm not sure I mean spring, the pin/spring that pushes the arm back from the rim) either popped out or snapped, I couldn't tell which.

I couldn't really tell where it was meant to reattach or screw back in. Does anyone have a diagram or such showing how it should attach? Or can anyone explain how it should be attached?

I do not believe it's a model with multiple holes for different tension but I could be wrong.

It is completely loose now and the brake arm has no tension.

The brakes are very similar to these Tektro RX5 brakes unfortunately the manual on that page doesn't mention adjusting/refitting the spring.


texts: what does "pre-bled" mean in the context of a cable-actuated hydraulic disc brake

texts: I am shopping for disc brakes and looking at cable-actuated ones.  What would "pre-bled" mean in that context?


texts: What are some good exercises to prevent knee pain?

texts:
About four or so years ago, I hurt my knee on a fairly long ride (~150km or so).  It was really my own fault, as I hadn't been training regularly, and I pushed myself a bit too hard.  By the time I arrived home, my left knee had swollen up and was in quite a bit of pain.  I stopped riding for about a half year, and when I started up again I took things lightly and tried to train more regularly.

Fast-forward to today.  I am riding 20km per day, and am spinning at high cadence when I ride.  I try to stretch both my knees before/after riding, but I still feel some soreness or pain when I ride.  Although I haven't yet experienced anything as bad as the original injury, I'm worried that if I will get injured on the next long-distance ride that I take.

What are some good exercises that I can do to prevent re-injuring my knees during future rides?  Are there any particular stretches which are helpful in loosening up the knee before riding?


texts:
Manufacturer specifies a seat clamp/collar size of 36.6mm. I was wondering if a 36.4mm clamp will work?

How much tolerance is there with a seat clamp?


texts: I have noticed many bikes for sale that are made of mostly one material, such as aluminum, except for the fork which is carbon. I know carbon is very expensive so the manufacturer must be trying to use a little bit in the best possible place. So, if for a certain price point they can choose only one part to be carbon, why the fork? What are the advantages of carbon forks?


texts:
I installed a new sealed bearing in my bottom bracket. Unfortunately after tightening it most of the way, it jammed and I realised I'd cross threaded it.

I then removed it and reinstalled it. It tightened up no problems and seems secure now. I went for a short ride and it appears to be working fine.

I am going to use this bike as a fixie build and am planning to put a fair amount of effort and expense into the frame, so I don't want to continue with this bike if I've damaged the bottom bracket significantly. This link indicates that I may have done irrepairable damage.

So my questions:

Given that it now appears to be fine, how can I tell if I have damaged the bottom bracket?
If it is damaged, are there methods to repair it, or should I discard the bike and get another donor bike? I don't want to put a lot of work into this frame and then in 12 months discover that it's not usable long term


texts: Consequences of having too low tyre pressure

texts:
I changed a 38-622 size tyre to a different brand 37-622 one. The original tyre stated a pressure range of 40-60 psi, while the new one states 50-85 psi. What are the consequences of going below the recommended lower limit (50)?
The bicycle is used by a light rider, typically with pressures between 40-50 psi for comfort reasons. This bike is mainly used for getting around town, sometimes on gravel roads.

EDIT: I received many useful answers about how to decide whether the pressure is too low. One aspect of the question that was not fully addressed is why there is a different pressure recommendation between two different tyres of (almost) the same size, and whether the type (rather than size) of the tyre really makes a significant difference in how low one may go with the pressure.


texts: How to install a cartridge bottom bracket (threaded) in threadless shell?

texts: Is it possible to install a threaded cartridge bottom bracket in a threadless shell which has a PF30 installed?


texts:
See picture attached of a point in the rear derallier cable routing - should I put something in there to prevent rubbing (I can't fit any brake or gear housing in there - so if so what should I use?), or is the cable fine going naked through the braze-on?

Ditto for the other side and the front derallier, which goes through a series of curves and up into the derallier.

Thanks


texts:
How much maintenance and what is it specifically that needs attention on 2006 - 2010 Santa Cruz Bur VPP rear linkage mountain bikes?

Im looking to buy a used Blur XC, but I hear they need a lot of upkeep. Just wondering what. Is it just a lube and clean situation? or replacing bushings on a yearly basis?


texts:
I've recently started commuting with a bicycle (Giant hybrid bicycle).  I've been trying to learn a little about bicycling to make my commute easier and my time on the bicycle more enjoyable.  Please forgive me for using the wrong terminology.

I've read that I should keep my pedalling speed mostly consistent and use my bicycles gears to adjust my speed.  The problem I'm having is understanding the 'how'.

My bicycle has 3 gears on the front of the chain and 8 gears on the back.

Low gear == easy to pedal
High gear == harder to pedal

What I've found is that the gears don't follow a very logical (to me anyway) progression and because of that - I don't know how I should be shifting.  Currently, I've been keeping my front gear in the middle and using the back shifter to change between gears 3-7 or so.  I'm only use about four gears on my '21 speed' bicycle!

I'm also pretty sure the salesman said it was a 21 speed bicycle - but by my count there are 24 combinations.  I know (now) that I'm not supposed to have the front gear in the lowest position and the back gear in the highest (and vice-versa) but that seems to leave 22 gears.

How should I be shifting?  Should I really use all 21 or 22 gears?  I haven't done the math but it really feels like there is a big amount of overlap between the gears.  I hope this ascii art will make sense to someone.  This is just how it 'feels' to me.

----1----2----3----4----5----6----7----8----
------------1----2----3----4----5----6----7----8----
--------------------1----2----3----4----5----6----7----8----

Does that make sense?  Is it right?

It feels like there is overlap between the three front gears and that to shift the most 'smoothly' I'd need to constantly change both gears.  But this seems really complicated to me.

I've ridden bicycles with only three gears and I found myself thinking 'More would be nice' - but now I'm overwhelmed.  I'm also questioning if anyone really benefits from so many gears?!


texts:
I am building a wheel with an Alfine 8 speed hub which has space for a disk brake.
I am measuring the dishing by supporting the rim and measuring the distance from the table to the end of the through bolt of the hub, then flipping the wheel over, make the same measurement and then compare. They should be the same so that the hub is in the middle of the rim.

I am now on my third attempt after truing the wheel laterally and vertically I check the dishing and it is leaning towards the right (chain side) by over 1cm, cm not mm. By eyeing the wheel the hub does not look too out of center.

My question: is this method of measuring the dishing suitable for an Alfine hub with disc brake or should I expect some difference between the sides.  Basically the difference is too great to be altered by adjusting the spokes.

Thanks for reading.


texts:
Are the new Sora R3000 STI shifters compatible with dura ace 7700 brakes and derailleurs?

Thanks


texts: Stripped thread on steerer. Who is at fault - me or LBS?

texts:
Background
I ride a Peugeot PKN10 (1980 or 1979 I'm unsure of the exact date).  Three months ago I had a cracked chainstay replaced at my LBS.  This required removal of the original fork and headset so the frame could be clamped and welded.
When rebuilding the bike the LBS recommended that I replace the original headset (a vintage Lightrace model I believe to be this one) with a modern headset, advice which I took on the basis of their expertise.  The listing for the linked item notes that the Lightrace headset is French threaded.
The Issue
The new headset the LBS fitted was (what I know know to be a British threaded) Tange Passage.  I was told this might loosen after a bit of riding and if so to return to the shop for an adjustment.  When I got the bike home I noticed the top adjustable race was so loose it could be turned with my fingers.  I returned to the bike shop for an adjustment, which tightened everything up.
I then rode the bike for 2 months. After around a month the top race of the headset was noticeably loose again, and I made the adjustments myself (as it was not convenient to return to the LBS).  My daily ride is approximately 5 miles, in heavy traffic in a busy city - as such I couldn't hear or particularly feel grinding in the headset.
On a longer ride in the countryside (approx 25 miles on country lanes) this became very clear though - after 5/6 miles the headset became so loose I could turn it with my fingers again and I rode very cautiously to my destination and back again (there was no opportunity to 'turn back' and resolve the issue when I noticed it).
It was clear at this point that the issue lay with the headset slipping on the thread of the steerer. Immediately after the countryside ride I removed the headset and fork off the bike completely.  The thread of the steerer is clearly stripped, as well as the inner thread of the locknut.  The LBS has advised that both now need to be replaced.
The Question
After seeing the steerer and doing my own research online I believe the LBS fitted the incorrect thread of headset (they are currently checking to see whethet this is the case - I will update when I have a definitive answer). My conclusion is that an incorrect headset was the root cause of the damage.  The LBS has said that I should have come in sooner if I noticed the headset was loose and not ridden the bike for 2 months - they believe I have caused the damage by not acting on the signals earlier.  The LBS has not brought it up, but there is of course the matter of the adjustments I made myself - possibly these caused irreversible damage to the steerer.
My assumption was that the bike shop would diagnose the correct thread type of the steerer and fit the correct part, and as such I when adjusted the headset I was doing so on the basis that it had been correctly installed and therefore could be easily adjusted without damaging the steerer.  Equally, doubt I had as a result of noticing the headset loosening on a number of occasions was counteracted by trust in the LBS - my assumption was the bike was fine to ride as the initial work had been completed by professionals.
Between a new fork, a new headset and labour (£80 + £20 + £15 = £115) this has become costly to resolve.  It's also notable that I have already payed £35 for the (arguably unnecessary) Tange headset and the labour to install it.
My questions here are threefold:

Can installing an English threaded headset on a French threaded steerer cause this type of damage?
Who does the fault lie with here - me or the LBS? Who should bear the cost of the resolution?
If the resolution is to meet in the middle (registering responsibility to both parties), what is a fair way to split the financial cost between myself and the LBS.


texts: Chain derailment from front crank. Fine on large ring won't hold on smaller inner ring

texts:
Second hand bike. GTZR3000

Shimano 105 9 speedshifter
9 speed rear group shimano
9 speed tiagra rear derailleur

The bike runs fine on large front ring, shifting is perfect.

When I change for an incline to the smaller front ring and apply pedal presure the chain comes straignt off. On a stand without pressure resistance on the drive train, everything moves perfectly. Back on the road and again and pedal pressure sends the chain off.

Can anyone advise if they are aware of potential reason why?


texts:
I would like to understand how to find cyclist friendly paths in London using Google Maps on my Windows 10 PC. I can do this using my Android phone, there is an option that shows me such paths in the google map app. These paths are shown in green. However, when I just go to  https://www.google.com/maps on my Windows 10 PC I don't see a setting that would highlight such paths. In fact google maps will propose me a cyclist path (or several paths) between any two points, but I will not be able to see which bits of this path are cyclist friendly and which are not. Such bits would be shown in green on my android app.
So is there some way to see these "green paths" on my Windows PC?


texts: I want to replace my cassette which is 7 speed 14-34 shimano. The problem is I can't find exactly the same one. All I saw its 13-34 or 14-32 cassettes. So the question is: It is possible to replace my cassette with 14-32 or even lower e.g. 13-26 without replacing a chain or any other replacements? Thank you in advance.


texts:
I'm adjusting the threaded headset on my Brompton (if that matters). I read Sheldon Brown's and Park Tool's articles on this topic and followed the recommendations. I adjust the upper race so that there is no play in the headset and handlebars flop to one side when I lift the front wheel holding the frame. The problem is, when I tighten the locknut with a wrench while holding the upper race with another wrench I still have the upper race move slightly. Thus, I get too stiff an adjustment -- handlebars do not flop to one side anymore and I feel the front wheel rotate tighter than it probably should. How do I properly tighten the locknut then?

P.S. For now, I have managed to tighten it somehow, with trial and error and then more trial and error. But still I believe I'm missing something here.


texts: What is the drag / power lost to a safety flag?

texts:
I have a recumbent bike that has a safety flag on the top of a thin pole, so it flutters around higher than and after my head.

How much power am I losing to this flag that could be used to power my ride forward?

How can it be measured as a wattage ?  Sadly I don't have access to a power meter or a wind tunnel.


texts: Why isn't the chain on the rear gear in biggest cog for lowest gear

texts:
I have bought a bike few days ago and I am a new rider as an adult. And, I am a little confused as my rear brake has 7 cogs but the chain is on the second from top cog.

Shouldnt it be on the biggest cog in gear in 1? If so how would I fix this?

Similarly, the indicator looks like it is in between  gear 1 and 2.

The front cog when in gear 2 also
makes a grinding noise.

Please help me, I am a newbie and would appreciate the help.

**UPDATE: Adjusting the front derailleur **

I have followed accordingly, as per answer below, and found on the front cog the chain looks to be scraping against the second/middle cog of the front three.

Putting the Front gear in 2 and spinning the pedals the chain doesn't go in the second cog. But, when I was riding it this morning, felt like I was in gear 2 for this gear.

Also, trying to adjust the derailleur on on the vertical axis - up and down; the screw seems like it is just spinning and no movement. I can easily see the horizontal movement just not the vertical.

I am lost as to what else needs to be done now.


texts: Replace Nexus 3 with rollerbrake with Alfine 11

texts:
I have a cargo bike equipped with a Nexus 3 hub shifter and related roller brake. Since where I live is pretty hilly, I'd like to replace it with a shifter with a big range and little gap between the gears, as the 11 speed Alfine hub shifter. Unfortunately, the Alfine is available only in disk version, while my bike doesn't have mounts for disk or v-brakes. Moreover, the bicycle has poor braking performance when fully loaded, so a disk brake would be a valuable addition.

Is there any adapter I can use to mount a disk brake caliper on the rollerbrake mount?
Are there chances that the bike present clearance problems while trying to mount a disk brake on it?

Update: In the end I mounted a Nexus 8 shifter with its own brake. The rollerbrake sold with the nexus 8 is the one with heatsink fins and, after some months of use, I can say it offers a lot more braking force than the one that comes with Nexus 3. The braking performance of the rear wheel is now comparable with a good disk brake (with less, but overall sufficient modulation). Adding the proper braking grease increase the modulation. I can warmly recommend this setup to anyone has similar constraints.


texts:
I took my bike for the first ride of the season yesterday and unfortunately it was pretty short. As I was cycling through the rear gears I hear a plinking sound and then a large clunk. I stopped immediately and went to inspect the back wheel where I saw the following carnage:

The plastic shroud that holds the return spring for the lower pivot was broken and the spring had been ejected.

The pulley cage was crushed

Two spokes were damaged, one snapped at the base of the rim (nipple?) and another snapped off at the hub.

I suspect that happened where is the L limit screw was dialed in too far and the pulley cage was hitting on the spokes (thus the plinking sound) but when a spoke mounted reflector passed by it put enough force on the derailleur to break the shroud and mess up the pulley cage as well.

With the why and how aside I'm looking to repair the damage so I can go on cycling!

I'm fairly new to bicycle maintenance so I'm trying to understand this piece by piece. I obviously need a new derailleur, probably a higher quality one this time around. Is there anything a beginner should be aware of when buying a new one? Besides the minimum and maximum tooth sizes.

Secondly, is it possible to buy just a few replacement spokes (I've been mostly looking on Amazon Canada)? Should I replace all the spokes at the same time?

Thank you!


texts: Is there any good software to track and compare rides using my own computer

texts:
I like being able to see a record of my cycling in Strava, and compare rides with previous ones, see if I'm speed up or slowing down etc.

But I don't like the idea of a company creating a database of where millions of identified people go. It seems like a privacy problem.

Is there any good way to view a history of my cycling and calculate cumulative figures using my own computer rather than sending the data to someone else to analyse?

I can copy a GPX file record of each ride to my computer but I haven't seen anything that will let me view all the data together, rather than just one ride at a time.


texts:
Took apart my Shimano Acera derailleur cage to clean it up a bit and didn't bother to note the shape of the tension pulley which is a bit thicker on one side. It seems like it would be shaped this way for a reason since the guide pulley is symmetrical. Should the thicker side face toward or away from the wheel?

Edit: Here's a close-up showing an arrow or #1:

Update:

Per user in comment section, the arrow is indeed an indicator as to which way the pulley should be installed. See below excerpt taken from an unrelated Shimano derailleur model:

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-TRRD001-00-ENG.pdf

Depending on the model, the guide pulley has arrows on it to indicate the direction of rotation. Install the guide pulley so that the arrows are
pointing counterclockwise when looking at the outer side of the derailleur.
The tension pulley has an arrow on it to indicate the direction of rotation. Install the tension pulley so that the arrow is pointing clockwise when
looking at the outer side of the derailleur.


texts:
I recently discovered that the adjustable sealed bearing cartridges on my rear hub failed prematurely because one of the "cones" (cartridge shoulder nuts) had somehow tightened itself, putting undue pressure on the bearings. While I was warned that play will develop in hubs with adjustable cartridges as the bearings wear over time, I was not prepared for the opposite problem and thus did not realize what was happening until it was too late.

Because the left-side cone nut did not seem flush against the spacers and locknut when I took the wheel out, my hypothesis is that precession forces turned the cone nut clockwise as the hub turned counter-clockwise. This would have slowly moved the cone nut inward, away from the spacers/locknut. Searching "precession cone nuts" revealed a relevant thread, but I did not feel the conversation explored this topic fully.

While there may be flaws in my hypothesis, it does seem like cone nut threading would, as on bottom brackets and pedals, be an important consideration in hub design. Furthermore, while I am aware that axle locknuts should be tightened to prevent cone nuts from loosening, both nuts use a standard right-hand thread. I cannot, therefore, imagine locknuts do a very good job of keeping cone nuts from moving inward.

This brings me to my question. Why are axle cone nuts on the left side of a bike not reverse threaded? If this were the case, it would seem that precession forces would effectively keep cone nuts on both sides of the bike flush against their respective spacers and locknuts.


texts: I am rebuilding a Trek Mountain Bike model 6500 built in 2005.  I don't see a model number on the Shimano Deore rear 8 speed derailleur that needs replacing.  Is there a hidden model number somewhere on the unit, or do I just need to replace it with a standard Shimano Deore unit?  How do I know what to order?


texts: How do people ride road bikes without fenders?

texts:
I want to buy a bike. The road bikes look very gorgeous. However I noticed that they come without fenders to protect from water! I was really surprised for that actually and that made me wonder about how do people protect themselves when driving on wet roads.

When one drives on a wet road then you get smashed by water and your clothes get dirty. So how do people protect themselves when driving a road bike?! Are the tires somehow made that they prevent water? Or what is the secret?!


texts: Just installed a new chain but it took me 4 tries, is it safe?

texts:
I just installed a new Shimano 105 11sp chain on my bike using a park tool chain tool to put in the pin. But I screwed it up 3 times . After each time, I popped out the pin and used a new pin (ended up using 4 pins). Is it safe?

I only ask because I didn't know if by pushing so many pins through the link I may have opened the link hole too much or something.

On the 4th time, I pushed the pin a little too much so the link was tight, so I rotated the chain tool around and gave it a 1/32 turn to push it back a quarter-hair.

If you must know how the hell I did it wrong so many times:

time 1: Inserted the pin from wrong direction & and it was outside one of the jocky wheel tabs
time 2: outside one of the jocky wheel tabs
time 3: outside one of the jocky wheel tabs (yep, it was early and I seriously just popped out the pin and put a new one without fixing it)


texts:
We moved the Denmark where the bicycle roads are extremely good and there are only a few hills.

Our house a bit far from the center so my wife and I will need to ride like 8-9km to city center quite often. And most closest market is like 1-2km far from us. And most important we have our daughter who is 11 months now.

I am looking for a bike so far this site makes most sense to since I don't have any experience with bikes. And it seems City bikes fits me(and my wife) most.

But I am using a road bike(similar to city bike) now I have some problems like;

Just cycling 6km every day and back. I am being tired very much and extremely slow(where google say 20 mins it takes 40 mins  ).
Even there are not many I am having problems with hills.
I expect everything will be much more harder when I add the baby trailer.

So my questions are,

1- Should I prefer an E-bike over a city bike because the problems I
   listed?

2- Is it possible to mount a baby trailer to an E-bike?


texts: Why are my ENVE SES wheels rubbing on frame when Zipp 303 didn't? Same tyres

texts:
The 25mm tires are rubbing and they didn't when I had Zipp 303 on Cannondale 2017 EVO.

Seems like every time I put any pressure or even turn, tyres rub the frame. I'm only 140lbs (63 kg) and this is my 3rd Cannondale EVO but never have had any issues until adding ENVE wheels.

I added the Enve last year. They didn't rub during the Cache Gran Fondo only started after I got home (Colorado).  They've never really rubbed, just started after Gran Fondo trip.  I'm using the same Continental Gator Skin tyres as I had on the earlier on Zipp 303 wheels.


texts:
my trail bike (only i've ever attached a rear rack) have a straight line from the seat stays holes to screw in the rear rack and the top clearance for the rear tire. my wife's fuji bike has the rear tire way higher than the holes on the seat stays.

Can i add any brand of rear rack to this bike? or should i look for something special for these cases?


texts: Saddle height for toddler's balance bike

texts:
My toddler (two and a half years old) has just started scooting around on her balance bike. I'd like to ensure that the saddle is at the best height for her to learn to balance. I know the rules of thumb for adjusting this on an adult bike with pedals, but they obviously don't apply here!

What is the ideal height, probably expressed in terms of how straight her legs should be when sitting on the saddle?


texts: What to do with the white plastic tube in Dahon city vybe c7a?

texts:
Just got a Dahon city vybe c7a:

It has a white plastic tube at the bottom, what should I do with it? It seems to prevent the seat pole from sliding down.


texts:
I'm building a recumbent trike and have reason to have the rear cassette offset from the cranks.

At the same time, the chain is very long, so the offset is compensated. It looks like the chain will be running about 3.25 degrees when the chain is on the smallest cog.

I tried to compare this with normal bike chain angles, but have a hard time finding information about chainline in terms of angles. Usually, chainline is specified in mm from the center of the bike, and there is no specific range of chain angles which is considered bad, usually there is just a vague rule of thumb not to ride cross-chained.

On a road bike with a 41cm long chainstay and 40mm wide cassette, we can use trig to calculate a max chain angle of about 2.7 degrees, if the front chainwheel is centered on the cassette. If the front chainwheel is offset 5mm from the center of the cassette, such as a cross-chain situation, then maybe chain angle is as much as 3.5 degrees. But these are approximate calculations.

Does anyone know any actual data on what chain angle is ok, except for vague warnings about cross-chaining, which depends on the bike geometry anyway?


texts:
I've inherited a frame my father used to ride and was planning on getting it blasted and coated.

Checking it over it all seems to be in fair condition (its decent 531 Reynold tube), some rust, but not deep. Except the tube behind the bottom bracket shell between the chain stays (what do you call that bit?) which has a large rust hole.

How bad is this? Safe to ride? Fixable?

If it didn't have sentimental value I'd probably chuck it, but it does so I'd like to use it if possible.


texts:
I've read that treads don't affect traction very much.  This is why NASCAR cars have smooth tires.

But, the road is not clean.  They say you can't hydroplane on a bike, but what about a thin patch of mud on the road?  Or spots with some gravel on them?

Everyone says treads don't matter for roads, but they still keep engineering road tires with treads, so I'm curious the degree of benefit that this really provides?


texts: What tool do I need to remove this Joytech freehub?

texts:
I have tried 10mm allen: too small, spins freely, with very little grip.

Hub brand: Joytech

On the outer side it has 9 ball bearings.

Video showing right/drive side:

Video showing left/non-drive side:

It is a low-end (BSO-ish maybe), 170USD hybrid bicycle, bought from Decathlon.
8 gears;
Bicycle model: B'Twin Riverside 120;
Derailleur model: B'Twin.

I'm not a bicycle expert, this is my first freehub removal attempt.
I'm not sure how this freehub is secured to the hub; any details are greatly appeciated.


texts: What is the usual pattern of use of a velodrome (cycling track)?

texts:
In the first place, if the title is not properly describing my question, please edit it.

The fact is: the bike advocacy groups of my city are slowly getting some attention from City Hall, and bicycle culture is slowly growing, with some cycle paths and education campaigns. The growing of bikers, in the other hand, is much faster, and there are a lot of people prone to advocacy and putting pressure on the politicians.

We are beginning to think about asking to build a public velodrome (track), nothing fancy, but something that would allow regular folks, respecting some rules of course, to train in a controlled environment instead of in traffic.

The problem is (and now come the questions):

How can city hall perceive any positive effects of having a velodrome, so as to justify investment? Should we mention racing events, and such?
Normally, the cities which have velodromes allow non-track bikes to train there? What are the common restrictions for use of a public velodrome?
What should we care about, in terms of size, surface type and other norms, in order not to end up building a track that could not be used in official events?

Thanks very much for reading and for any advice!


texts: how wide 28" can be ? or how to beat mountain trails with 28"

texts:
I have an hybrid bike with 28 in wheels and 40 mm wide tires. The problem is that the recommended pressure is 70 psi. They are quite thin compared to mountain bike tires and that pressure makes me feel every stone on the way. They have terrible grip making the bike slip and the wheels to deviate on any stone bigger that a pingpong ball.

In resume I feel really uncomfortable in that terrain. This problems can be solved if I go with some speed; I can just jump over the obstacles. But this is impossible in group rides as they will be going far slower (also that speed breaks don't work well: my bike just slips on stones). Some of my mates insist that I could mount wider tires without any problem. But I didn't find any wider ones on the internet. Do they even exist ? Also I really doubt that my wheels can handle wider tires as far I am aware they are made for a small variation in wide.

EDIT (looks like there is more that enought room):

Edit2: I got 1.95 tires but the back one is hitting the frame partially it is because it is to big and partially it is because I have to true the wheel but even true they would be millimetres to frame. I cant understand why it is so much bigger!it should be only 10mm wider.


texts: 3 Speed Front Derailleur can't reach small gear

texts:
I bought a new frame and put my old Campagnolo Racing T components on it.
The seat tube has a diameter of 35mm and I use the Campagnolo 35mm clamp for the Racing T derailleur.

The problem is the derailleur can't push the chain to the small gear because a part of the derailleur touches the seat tube.

Is the frame incompatible with a 3 speed crank or do I just need a compatible derailleur for frames with a wider seat tube, maybe the ATHENA Tripple?

Parts

Frame: BULLS Desert Falcon, Seat Tube 35mm
Crank: Campagnolo Athena 11s
Derailleur: Campagnolo Racing T
Bottom Bracket: Campagnolo BB90 Power Torque

Images:

Derailleur touching the frame:
Crank:


texts: Can I replace a Shimano MF-Z012 (freewheel) with a MF-TZ510?

texts:
Can I replace a (6-speed) Shimano MF-Z012 with a (6-speed) MF-TZ500 or MF-TZ510 freewheel?
Bonus question: apart from the "T" both models seem to belong to a related series. What does the "T" mean?


texts:
I wonder if anyone can suggest any reason why I might be getting a regular clicking (two to each crank revolution, at the same place each time) from the crank/BB area of my bike. I understand these things can be difficult to diagnose, but just hoping I can be guided down the most likely paths.

I recently took the bike to a shop and they said the only thing they could do was replace the free wheel, which I found odd as the sound is unmistakably coming from the front end of the drive train. I can't spot anything visually wrong as I turn the crank, but the clicking only happens in the second chainring, not the first or third. I've had a good look at this chainring and it doesn't look excessively worn, although there is the odd tooth that is clearly much more pointed that the rest, to the point of resembling knives. Also the chain runs clear of the front derailleur, so I'm guessing that can't play a part in this.

Could it be that the chainring just needs replacing? Any other suggestions gratefully received! Thanks.


texts:
I got front & rear Phil Wood hubs for a touring setup back in Oct of 2011.  I'd been using them for commuting to work -- averaging 20 KM a day.  Except I'd been off the bike for the month of January, started again in Feb.

A week ago, things felt weird.  Discussed with a fellow cyclist at work, who said it sounded like the hub was going.  The following day, there was a loud crunch from the rear and the chain felt like it was slipping.  I took the wheel into the LBS who built the wheel for me.  They told me one of the four palls had an issue, and a spring was bent, so they corrected.  I picked up the wheel today, and got 10 KM before things started again - crunching noise from the rear, and a slip.  So I dropped the wheel with the LBS, who said they'll look for a rebuilt kit.

What is a pawl?  Is it part of the freehub?  Is a rebuilt kit enough, or should I be pressing for the LBS to RMA the hub?

Edit: In case anyone's interested, Phil Wood said they're aware of quality problems and wouldn't expect a rebuild kit to do much.  RMA time...


texts: Damaged paint on fork dropouts (magnesium) – is it dangerous?

texts:
I've noticed that paint on my Reba fork peels off near quick release dropouts. The lowers are made of magnesium according to RS website. Should I regard it as a cosmetic issue only, or is it in any way dangerous? There are no other damages.

How can I prevent it from peeling off further?

Note: edited to include information about material.


texts:
I got this bike, but I doubt it is NS bike since only Movement or Decade could be similar, but still there are differences.

Edit: Yes bike was painted and its just a NS sticker


texts: Fitting brake cables on Tektro rl726 levers

texts:
Iv'e got some Tektro RL726 brake levers that I want to fit to a project bike.  I bought the cables online & they have arrived with a stopper on both ends.  Am I right in thinking I have to cut one end off so I can thread it all through the brake, lever & housing?

If I have to cut the cable, which end do i keep for that lever type? The bigger drum bit or the more torpedo like narrower stopper (which looks like it would fit in the housing of the lever a bit.


texts: replacing a Trek 4300 bottom bracket with a new one

texts: is it possible to put a bb with hallow tech on this bike can the square tapered BB be replaced with one that i can use my two piece crankset with?


texts: Help figuring out make/model/year of this bike?

texts:
I am trying to figure out more info about this bike. It was painted by a precious owner, not the person selling it. I have not seen the bike in person, nor do I know much about bikes, but it looks like it has friction shifters? So based on this I guess that means 80's or earlier?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!


texts:
I've got an ABUS Bordo Lite folding lock and the holder it came with which attaches to the bicycle's frame using two thin metal strips and/or two Velcro straps is now broken:

As you can see, the soft plastic strap keeping the lock securely in the "holster" tore. Although the lock itself doesn't fall out when keeping the holster open as depicted, it does rattle around a bit and, more importantly, the strap itself is incredibly annoying because it moves around and sometimes tickles my sensitive, powerful-yet-dainty high-performance calves (no, I don't shave them).

Attempted solutions

Rubber band: I had tried wrapping a rubber band around the "inside" loop on the upper part of the strap and then wrapping the rubber band around the nub (what is it called?) on the holster itself, but the rubber band becomes more and more slack with time and then itself becomes loose.
Electrical tape: I tried wrapping electrical tape around the broken loop in order to try to hold the loop together, but it couldn't withstand the stress of the loop being closed around the "nub" on the holster.
Superglue: I tried supergluing the broken loop back together by letting the glue "set" inside a wrapping of electrical tape, but it didn't hold.
Kill it with fire: Since some plastics are re-formable, I had tried melting the broken loop with a lighter and then "re-forming" it by holding it together with electrical tape until it re-set. That didn't work at all and simply made it look uglier than before.


texts: Do aluminum rims provide better braking than steel ones when wet?

texts:
When I upgraded the brakes on my bicycle recently, the shop asked if I wanted to also switch from my (chromed) steel rims to aluminum rims, saying the aluminum rims would provide better braking power.  I opted not to at the time to save money; with the brake upgrade (old-style sidepull caliper to dual-pivot), I have plenty of stopping power when dry.

In the rain, however, my brakes are almost worthless.  Do aluminum rims provide significantly better braking when wet?


texts: How do I remove the front axle from a sealed bearing hub?

texts:
I'm trying to remove the axle from my front wheel to fit it into a box.  But the axle doesn't want to come out.  I've been able to take all the bits off of one side, but I can't remove the ones from the other side, the axle is just spinning while I try and unscrew them.

I expected after I had got one side free that I could just pull it out, but it is not coming out.

I'm not really sure what to do next, every video and explanation I can find on this says that it should just come out.


texts: Do skilled cyclists really "use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time"?

texts:
Sheldon Brown's Braking and Turning Your Bicycle page states that:

  Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time

and

  "Generally I advise against using both brakes at the same time."

I certainly use my front brake more than my rear brake, but not exclusively. Specifically, I pull two or three times harder on the front brake than on the rear, and as I come to a stop and feel less traction on the rear wheel, I gradually let up on the rear brake. Sheldon's advice implies that it would be better to use the front brake exclusively.

The page states cases for the exceptions where a cyclist should use both brakes together or the rear brake alone but doesn't provide a rationale for why not to use the two brakes together. In normal conditions, is using the front brake alone truly better than using both brakes, and if so, why?

(Related question: When should I not use my front brake?)


texts: What gauge wire is used for dynamo hubs and lights?

texts: I have some non-standard bikes to hook up so rather than ordering the kits with fixed length wires, I want to just order appropriate double strand (or coaxial) wire in bulk, along with the connectors, and get the job done that way. I can't seem to find the standard size used for this job, however. Appears to be about 22 AWG.


texts: Drop handlebars with drops that don't fit. Replace or adjust?

texts:
I bought a Surly Long Haul Trucker a couple years ago, and it has the stock handlebars. My hands don't really fit in the drops, and I sometimes would like a lower handlebar position where I can still reach the brake levers. For windy days, going down a hill real fast, going faster for the heck of it, etc. Having my "go fast" hand position be one I can't reach the brakes is kinda scary. My girlfriend recently got a Trek 520 (this year's model) and seems like with her handlebars my hands would actually fit in the drops.

What's my best option for getting that extra hand position?

If the answer is "buy new handlebars", what should I look for in those handlebars? There's a lot of options with "traditional bends", "ergo bend", "variable radius bend", flare, etc. and it's not really clear to me.

It's a "touring" bike but I have it outfitted as a commuter. I believe the handlebars are "PMT" which turns out to be nearly impossible to google usefully for. The drops appear to be directly beneath the ramps (no flaring). The classic older 26mm (?) clamp diameter. I'd say a small reach and a small amount of drop, but not quite sure how to measure. Width measure (center to center) came out to about 44cm.

Either way, handlebar tape is about due for replacement anyways.

I spend maybe 75%-90% of my time riding "on the hoods", a small amount of time on the top flat part, and even less on the drops.

Pictures:

(click for bigger view. And yes, it's the wrong hand but it was easier to take photos that way. )

I can ride with my hand somewhat like this:

But my hands don't really fit forward in the drops where I can reach the brakes. Unless I rotate out and/or squish my hand up a bit; neither of which isn't comfortable:

Handlebar setup pics:


texts: Bottom bracket conversion with rare cups

texts:
I'm asking this question as I'm interested in the community opinion in the idea of "am I taking the right path" or "is there a better way".

  tl;drl; - scroll to the bottom, please.

Namely, almost two years ago I've committed a (successful, in my opinion) conversion of cottered bottom bracket to a square-tapered one on a Motobecane 2040 steel road frame (late '70s or early '80s).

Why, one may ask. The reasons are:

I got the frame for a very attractive price and wanted to build a fixie on it (succeeded)
I hate cotters - they say you need only a hammer and a wrench to install and remove one, but in practice I never managed to do it properly (or I'm abusing my bikes). For square tapered cranks you need allen key or socket wrench for installation and a special crank remover for removal (sockets and allens I already had and the removal tool is like $5)
I was aiming for maintenance-free riding (also in bad weather), thus cartridge bearings were a very good option. If the set gets excessive play I'd rather replace the bearings or the complete cartridge than overhaul the ball bearings, set the play, check it and adjust after some time, etc.

So what was the challenge?

it is a Motobecane frame, where the BB threading is neither typical French, nor BSC (a.k.a. BSA), nor Campa, hence an off-the-shelve cartridge bottom bracket set with cups (either nylon or aluminium) is nearly unavailable
there are BSA axles available, but the BB shell on Motobecane is a bit wider so without replacing the balls it won't work. And again - it wouldn't be weatherproof.
the drive side cup was seized (i didn't have impact wrench then)

After an evening with Vernier caliper and internet, sourcing for affordable parts I've came up with a brilliant idea - I would keep the original cups and find a BB cartridge that would fit them. It was to be done. the cross-section of the whole concept (proven, working, nota bene) looks like this:

Black is the BB shell,
Red are the original cups (with bearing races),
Green is the Miche square-taper bottom bracket cartridge.

Positioning of the axle is done by placing some shims (ground to size) on left or right side.

The whole setup is working correctly now for more than 1000 km. The retaining nut came lose once, in fact I've assembled everything to check my proof-of-concept and it was working so well that I forgot to tighten or thread-glue the setup. After fixing that I'm experiencing no problems whatsoever.

Soon I'm going to build a daily commuter for my daughter based on Raliegh Ladies Traveller (something between the '30s and the '70s) frame (which we got for free and she really liked shape of the frame and front fork). As it is Raleigh, the bottom bracket has proprietary threading, which isn't BSC (a.k.a. BSA) - I've already checked it.

  TL;DR; reference:
  My question is:

shall I go the same way I went for my Motobecane, or
do you know some better way to convert the bottom bracket for the frame with non-standard cups?

Btw. both cups (undamaged) are now degreasing in a bucket, threading in the BB shell is also in very good condition.


texts: What are wheel tension relief machines called?

texts:
At a San Diego bike shop I saw a machine that is purported to take the tension out of a wheel while it's being built so that the tension won't be released when you first start to ride it.

Description: Machine is larger than a wheel and it has hydraulics that stress the wheel to relieve tension in spokes.

I'd like to find out more about this machine, but I couldn't find the name of it in order to google it. What is this machine called? Links to manufacturers?


texts: How to clean consumable metallic parts cheaply while touring?

texts:
By the term consumable metallic parts I mean things such as derailleur pulleys, chains and cassettes. I have met tourers that suggested me cooking oil for cleaning the metallic parts, more here. The irony is that this frugal question ignited the tip but I am starting to feel cooking oil is not necessarily frugal, the oil is binned at the end (loss). My answer contains a cleaning way for about 0.1-0.5EUR. So how can I clean the parts more cheaply?

Related

cooking oil used to clean chains -answer here
substitutes for chain lubricants -question here


texts:
The penny-farthing was the standard until the diamond-frame "safety bike" was "invented" and revolutionalized the world of bikes.

It seems to me strange to have to "invent" to put the same size of wheels on a bike, composed of two triangles (the idea of triangles is meny hundreds of years old in civil engineering).

Why did those awkward and dangerous bikes exist?


texts:
Our 2.2 year old toddler seems very interested in a random, abandoned bike seat we found, so we're considering some method of letting him ride with us. But I am not sure whether to get ...

A bike seat, which fits one toddler, and mounts above the rear wheel on the rack
A bike trailer, which fits possibly two toddlers, has its own wheels and attaches to the rear of the bicycle.

It seems to me the trailer is more flexible and potentially safer, since the center of gravity is much closer to the ground. I also worry that having a thirty+ pound weight on the rear rack will cause us to make more riding mistakes, and if the bike falls over, there goes the toddler.

However, the bike seat seems more fun for the toddler since he can see more of the ride and feels more like a co-rider than a passenger.

It's hard for me to decide without trying both, and right now I've tried neither. Can someone who has tried both a bike trailer and a bike seat with their toddlers share their experiences and thoughts on this? I'm interested in the pros and cons from people who have spent some time in the saddle with their toddlers using both.


texts:
I use Schawlbe Durano Plus 700X23C on Bontrager TLB 622 X17 ERD rim and  want to change to a thinner tire as a 21C
Can I make this tire change on the same rim?
If this is possible wich tire brand?
TKS


texts: How can you remove the interrupter (top bar) levers from the Giant Avail 5?

texts:
I'm looking to gain a little extra space on my handlebars and I do not use these brakes, so I was wondering if anyone knew of a way to remove them.

The spec is:

  Brake Levers  Shimano 2300 w/ Tektro RL720 Top Bar Levers


texts: What type of bicycle is closest to European city bike?

texts: I am looking for a bicycle that would be closest to the design that was popular in Russia, something with a high handlebar, relatively large wheels, and relatively short distance from the saddle to the handlebar. Which types of American bicycles should I look for?


texts: Should tire pressure be equalized or slightly offset?

texts: I am wondering wether I should match the recommended PSI of both my tires (equalized) or if I should have the front tire slightly more deflated than the back or vice versa (offset). Are there occasions where front and back tire pressure is slightly and preferably modified, such as a pro cyclist preparing a road bike for a time trial in comparison to a mountain bike for difficult terrain.


texts: Add front brake and/or improve back brake on 2012 Specialized P.24?

texts:
I love the P.24. Sometimes I like to ride it on steep offroad downhills and keep it under control. Currently, my braking strategy is brake and bail if necessary. :)

According to http://bmx-bikes.findthebest.com/l/576/2012-Specialized-P-24 the brake is: "Tektro FX-340 U-brake, melt forged, single bushing, coil spring, 15mm offset arms, soft compound pad".

I just added a longer pad, that seems to help. What else might I try to get better performance?

There is some kind of mounting hole on my front fork. What brake could I mount on there?

See also:

Q: "Can you confirm whether the forks on the P.24 are drilled for side-pull brakes or have mounting bosses for 990/U brakes?" A: "The bike is really not designed to run a front brake. Last year we did spec some with a front U brake on the same fork, but they required a an adapter which we no longer manufacture." (From http://specialized.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/507805-p-24-front-brakes)

Updates (8/30/2013):

I called Specialized. The person I talked to said that I could find a front brake that would probably work.
I measured the hole as having a 6mm diameter and 35mm length.


texts:
There's a 2.4km, fairly gentle hill near me which I want to get quite a bit faster on.

The traditional answer to my question is likely to be 'Go up the hill more often', but I also have a turbo trainer. I was wondering if it's more useful to do intense intervals on the turbo or just keep going up the hill on a regular basis? The hill is definitely more fun than turbo trainer but I want to get stronger and faster as fast as possible.

What's the answer here?

Some more background: I'm ~78Kg in weight, 6ft tall. My PR is 4:23 on this segment/climb. My first goal is to beat some guy I know who is 15s faster.. I think I can do this just by getting a decent run up and having a good day.. however that brings me on to the real challenge which is getting a lot faster! Ultimately I'd like to knock off 31s. Strava link: https://www.strava.com/segments/1525252/

I get out on my bike perhaps 2x or 3x a week for a 'proper' ride. Other than that I do 100km of commuting on a slower commuter bike. I'm 34yrs old and sometimes do some running and kettlebell exercises too. I dream of being massively powerful but due to time constraints I don't think that'll ever happen lol.


texts: How to re-terminate frayed brake cables?

texts:
I've bought and installed new cables for my bicycle, but I didn't have any cable-ends to crimp the ends. I've been riding for a few days now and just noticed that one of my cable ends has unwound itself due to movement or vibrations. Now I have a frayed set of wires sticking out of the end of my brake calipers.

Is there a good or proper way to reset these wires back to their original position so that I can crimp the end of the cable properly? Thanks


texts: Do mechanical disc brakes suffer from heat-induced fade?

texts:
The other day I read a question about heat induced brake fade in hydraulic disc brakes caused by too much braking on long, steep descents, which is something I have also experienced when cycling in the alps. (A quite unpleasant experience, I might add.)
This made me wonder if mechanical disc brakes would suffer from the same problem. There is no fluid to start boiling, so at first thought they should be heat-fade-proof.

If so, I think an optimized disc brake system would have hydraulic activation of a short mechanical lever or wire connected to the caliper itself.
This way the system would optimize modulation (by minimizing elasticity) while still being safe to brake for extended periods.
I realize that even with mechanical brakes, you can't brake indefinitely, as the pads, calipers and discs would overheat at some point, but if the margin is large enough to cover most practical uses, the idea might be worth exploring.

So I'd like to hear from people with mechanical disc brakes if they have experienced heat induced fade?


texts: How much hydration is enough hydration during long rides?

texts:
I have been doing some experiments to see if I'm hydrating enough during rides of moderate length and intensity. Basically, I weigh myself (naked) and my water bottles before and after a ride, to measure my weight loss and water consumption. Also keeping track of ride time, average speed of the ride, and the outside temp (per my phone's weather app), and any snacks I eat.
My questions is: if I'm hydrating enough, should I expect my body weight to stay approximately the same before and after a ride? Or would I expect to lose some measurable amount of weight independent of water loss (i.e. from respiration of CO2). For example, this weekend I did a 48km ride in ~2:00 hours, over which I consumed ~44oz of water (with electrolytes and sugar mixed in, no other snacks). After the ride, I was about 1 lb (0.45kg) lighter than when I started, though I wasn't feeling especially parched or exhausted. Is this difference mostly water weight? And if so, should I be drinking an extra half liter of water on similar rides? Or is it possible this weight difference was mostly from calorie burn, and my hydration level was adequate?
Obviously it isn't too much trouble to make up a small water deficit post ride, but I'm training for my first 200k brevet, and trying to establish a good baseline for staying hydrated over a substantially longer time-frame. For context, I'm a fairly overweight dude at ~225lbs. So I may need more water than other riders would on a similar ride.


texts: I just bought this Shimano HG41 cassette and I noticed that not all of the teeth and dips between them look the same. You can easily see this in the image that I included if you compare the teeth on the largest sprocket on the left with those on the right. You will notice that those on the left are wider and the ones on the right are smaller. Also, the dips look like they have different shapes. I am wondering if that is how it is supposed to be, or if there was a manufacturing defect, or if I was sold a used cassette. For reference, I bought the cassette in-person and it came in the box (the box was a bit beat up) and instructions, although there was no plastic wrap over the cassette in the box even though there normally is (although I am not sure if they only do this for higher end cassettes).


texts: How to get more tire clearance with caliper brakes?

texts:
I've discovered the brakes on my Bike Friday Tikit don't allow for enough clearance to run Schwalbe Marathon tires. The bike - a folding bike with 16" rims - ships with Kojak treadless tires. It looks like, as long as I have the existing caliper brakes - Tektro R530 brakes - I won't be able to run anything more robust than the Kojaks.

Brake removed from the bike:

Brake on the bike, showing the tire:

There isn't any way to mount these brakes differently, and the frame only has braze-ons for these brakes. A smaller tire or a smaller brake are really my only options, short of mounting the rims farther out - a bit of a kludgey solution, I think.

While I'm open to simply finding a smaller tire, I would much prefer to run Marathon tires as I'd like to use this bike for some light touring.

My question is: Are there caliper brakes with more tire clearance I could mount on this bike? What should I look for in these brakes? Will new brakes require me to change my brake levers? (I'm using Tektro RX 4.1 reverse levers.)


texts: Is there Rack (luggage carrier) for Ragley Blue Pig?

texts:
I'm planning to buy Ragley's Blue Pig frame. It's not supposed to be used for very long rides, but, if I wish to take a few-days trip, a large backpack looks like a bad idea.
So, is there any rack that can be used with this frame without frame modification? Or, maybe, I should look for another solution of my problem?

Also, I would like to avoid console rack (a kind of racks that attaches to seatpost).


texts: is it worth to change slx 2011 rear derailleur for xtr 2009?

texts:
I bought a bicycle last summer a Specialized camber comp and it mounts Shimano SLX as rear derailleur. My intention is to change it for a xtr derailleur (from 2009) which is mounted in a bicycle I barely use, the derailleur is as new.

do you think is worth to swap them? I am also planing to change the alivio shifters for a better ones since I think the whole set won't be balanced.


texts: I have a new bike for 3 month and after about 20 Km my ring and index finger on the left hand became numb. Just as an information for my hand position: These fingers are always on the brakes. Here is my handlebar and brake lever position. Any idea how to adjust them to get rid of this problem?


texts:
I have an older Trek 2100 that has carbon fiber tubes with aluminum stays (The frame is used early 90's 2100/2150/2200/2300 road bikes)

After a recent accident with a car (going down hill, guy pulls into the road from a driveway  and just... stops, so I bounce off his door) I took my bike to a shop to check for frame cracks, which they didn't find thankfully.

They did point out though that in the lower frame joint (by the front derailleur) the carbon tubes are separating from the aluminum joint. This is apparently unrelated to the accident and something that naturally happens as the epoxy ages and the bike is regularly used.

How dangerous is this? How likely is it to catastrophically separate outside of an accident type situation (i.e. just riding around)? And is it possible to rebuild the frame with fresh epoxy (I have access to a machine shop and some industrial grade epoxy)?

I love downtube shifters too much to just toss it away :D


texts:
I am planning to buy a hybrid bike and have been evaluating a few geometries.

Merida Speeder 100 Juliet 2018
Cannondale Quick 5 Disc Women's 2018
Marin Terra Linda 2 2019
Trek Zektor 2 2018
Specialized Sirrus Disc Women's 2018

Components wise, Merida seems to be the best value for money as only it has carbon forks while others have alloy forks. It is the lightest bike too (10.24 kg (S(47) frame size)).

However, the geometry of Merida is slightly tricky to understand. It has a very high stack (566 mm for Size 47) resulting in a very high standover height (745 mm) leaving a very small gap when I stand over the bike (inseam length 710mm).
Rest of its features are closer to a road bike (wheelbase: 1018 mm for 47 size, reach: 368 for 47 size etc) but the stack or the height of the bike is too high. Its stack to reach ratio is 1.53 which is generally for endurance road bikes which would have larger wheelbase. Is there any stack to wheelbase ratio to check if the stack is not too high for the wheelbase?

Whereas for Cannondale, the stack reach and standover are better but the wheelbase is slightly higher. (Stack: 554 Reach: 388 StacktoReachRatio: 1.427  Wheelbase: 1053 Standover height: 690). Given that the other geometry numbers are more performance oriented, does the higher wheelbase make the bike less performance oriented (Cannondale)?

Which among the two is a more performance oriented geometry and which one is more comfortable?
I had almost finalized on the Merida but then I started with a detailed understanding of the geometry and am still evaluating the best geometry. Any comments/insights in the geometry of the Merida vs Cannondale? Or if any other bikes in the list have a better geometry?

My main requirements are that the bike be really light weight, can run through bad roads (pavements, potholes etc.) during the daily commute around the city and can be quick enough for decent rides during the weekends.

Any help would be very appreciated. :)


texts: How can I fit a bigger rear tyre when limited by the front derailleur?

texts:
I've recently bought a hardtail, just an entry-level bike, but I've only got entry-level skills.  The tyres it came with are WTB Nano 2.1". They aren't exactly ideal for the sort of conditions we have in the UK in winter (lots of deep mud, wet tree roots, muddy rocks etc.) and I'd like to fit something (i) knobblier and (ii) a little wider.

At the front this is easy, something like a Maxxis Shorty 2.3" or Magic Mary  would easily fit.  At the back, there's also plenty of room except behind the front derailleur

where there's about 3 mm (and that filled up with mud today)

There are 2" tyres for mud, but they're reputed to have a harsh ride on anything else, and not grip well on wet rock/tree roots -- something I need at my skill level as my lines aren't up to much and I don't always carry enough speed.

This is the only bike I've owned with a top-pull FD.  And I can see why they've used one rather than have cables under the BB getting coated in mud and even bashed.  But it takes up much more room than any of the bottom-pull FD's I've got.  Is it because it's a cheap FD? Because it's a triple? It's an Altus 3×9 drivetrain.

Is there an upgrade that would gain me a few mm?

As an aside: I picked it up in a hurry, lightly used/ex-rental and without a test ride, for around half the shop price. I'm happy with it apart from this, and assumed that I might upgrade consumables (perhaps as they wear out). I looked at the specs in detail to be sure the fundamentals were there, but is there any way I could have spotted this?


texts: Can i fit 26 x 2.3 tyre to 559 x 19c rims?

texts:
If yes, is there a problem?
And what is the max tyre width for that rims?

Thank you.


texts: What solutions are there for a tyre that won't stay seated?

texts:
I've got a Schwalbe snow and ice 700x38 (also marked 40-622) on a Mavic A319 (19 mm internal width).  This, according to Sheldon should be an ideal combination (and if it wasn't, the failure modes don't match).  Other tyres seat well on the rim but this one has always been problematic: when I first fitted it last winter, and the first time this winter, the bead wanted to ping out of the hook groove.  Last night I topped it up (to somewhere in between the min and max recommended pressures), got about 10 km and it came off the rim.  After that I just couldn't get it to seat - pumping it up hard it came straight off the rim, pumping it up soft it came off within the first 10 metres.  After several attempts (over an hour in -4°C) I had to give up and call for a lift.

Other tyres on the same rim are fine (marathon plus 32, marathon mondial 35).  This tyre seemed OK on the front rim for the same bike (a 17mm Alex) but doesn't fit under the mudguard (I've got a 35mm studded tyre on there).

I'd really like to refit this tyre tonight given the weather forecast, and studded tyres are only available mail order so there's no chance of getting a replacement quickly.

Is there some way to persuade it to seat and stay seated?  Does the tube width make a difference - my spare was only recommended up to 35mm but it orginally failed with one recommended up to 40mm - perhaps by exerting lateral pressure into the seat immediately rather than radial first it was persuaded to seat but only just.

Update: I've tried it on the front wheel of my 29er hardtail.  It won't seat there either, and in a few attempts it popped off in a different place each time.  The bead feels OK, less pronounced than some of my other tyres (which are mostly Schwalbe as well) but not enough that you'd notice unless you were trying to find something.


texts: Im trying to investigate what type of bottom bracket has by Wilier Zero9 road bike. Looks like some pressfit but Im Not sure,  inner bearing width has 25mm. I have Shimano Ultegra 2x11 6800.


texts: Wrench to be used with a bottom bracket tool?

texts: It looks like a wrench with a cup at the endpoint. I was wondering what is this tool called and whether it's meant to be used by itself or in combination with a bottom bracket tool, like the PT BBT-22, for example.


texts: What is the consistency of the Finish Line Dry Teflon?

texts:
I am doing some test for my home purposes of different lubes, and I was quite surprised I have three bottles of Finish Line Dry Teflon with two different forms. I shook all before applying and the bottle I have from the old times have foam like form (it liquefies after a while), but in two new bottles I have a water-like consistency (or even with less viscosity), no foam for sure.

I checked Finish Line video, from the shots presented it looks to my eye like light foam there. The video is from 2013. So my question is -- should be foam-like or water-like? Did FL change the formula (the bottles except for DuPont labels look identical)? Or does the form change in time, meaning fresh lube is water-like and it becomes foam in time. Or this is product which varies from item to item (low quality control)?

Unfortunaly I am unable to recall what was the form when I bought the old bottle, because it was some years ago and meanwhile I used other brand.


texts: Any good 18 speed gear shifters for drop handlebars?

texts:
I have an Apollo Envoy hybrid bicycle. I'm planning on converting it to a road bicycle. I will buy a stem adaptor, stem, and new dropped handlebars.

The thing that really confuses me is the gear shifter and brake levers. It seems like most shifters are made for 10-speed bicycles. I can't seem to find anything about 18-speed gear shifters.

Since I'm on a budget, are there any good 18-speed gear shifters for drop handlebars?

Any input would be very useful.


texts: How to secure the fork when there is no stem

texts:
On my half recumbent tandem, there is no stem on the front steerer tube. I would like to change the upper cup of the headset (related question Play in headset with no upper bearings on a tandem bicycle). But the stack for my new headset is a little higher than the previous one, and there is not much clearance between the top of the headset and the front seat.

Since there is no stem to secure the fork in place, there is a kind of lock ring with a bolt to do it. This is my understanding of how this system works. Am I right ? Is this lock ring really necessary ? (I'm pretty sure it is so but it adds to the height of the headset).
What would be the proper name for this kind of lock ring ? This design is not rare on cargo bikes, but when I look online to buy that kind of lock ring, I find only one model, and my use case (securing the fork when there is no stem) is not listed in the product description (https://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/locking_spacer_-_6788).


texts:
My friend has a mountain bike that survived last years Queensland's floods (Australia, that is), but is all battered and bruised after not being ridden for a year. With my beginner's repair skills, I managed to make it almost roadworthy. The main problem now is the front brake lever: It will activate the brakes when pulled (and they work just fine) but the lever won't spring back into place when releasing it.

Any ideas as to why that might be? Is there some spring that has can be replaced or does the lever have to go altogether? I have applied some WD40 inside the lever as I noticed some rusty parts there, but it didn't do the trick.

Edit: I got some new cables and cable outers (cost me an arm and a leg here in Australia!), but it didn't do the trick. I dismantled the brake lever, only to see there is a spring inside the lever. (The spring resembles 2 circles of 5mm diameter with two 1mm vertical tips on either side. I presume that the tips serve to "hook" the lever & possible return it to position.)

This spring was rusty and fell apart when I tried to squeeze it. To conclude, since everything else is new, the issue is either: - This rusty spring that needs replacing, or - The 90o cable guide that was also rusty.


texts: Need advice for my brakes on vintage Torpado

texts: I got nice Torpado as birthday present. I am not sure if the brake levers are too big for my hands, or too old. They seem very tight but also not that easy to reach. I am 5.3 tall, the frame is 49cm. I was looking at maybe getting Weinmann Dia-Compe Small Dual Safety brake levers. I have attached some photos of the levers.


texts: Is having your hands "on the hoods" of drop handlebars safe for braking?

texts:
I've never had a bike with drop handlebars, but may get one for commuting in busy London (likely a single-speed with mechanical disc brakes).
This would mean riding with my hands mostly on the hoods, but it seems like a slightly awkward position to use the brakes from:

Riding on the drops seems to offer better access to the brakes, but is apparently "less stable due to narrower hand position" anyway — so when talking about cycling with cars, vans and busses around, doesn't seem like the best choice either (for a non-professional).

Overall, is that just all in my head, or is there some cause for concern?

Also, is there any reaction speed data compared with flat handlebars, or other such studies, for this?

Personally, I'd be most worried about situations where I need to react quickly, as well as situations that are usual but I need to be consistent in my braking.
Flat handlebars are like second nature to me, would those be safer?


texts: I would like the suspension specs on my 2002 Rocky Mountain Element. Any help is appreciated

texts: I'm riding a 2002 Rocky Mountain Element.  It has a blown shock in the rear.  I would like to find the specs for replacement of the Fox Float R 2002 shock.  Any help is appreciated.


texts: What saddle rail material is the strongest?

texts:
I weigh about 120 kilos. Saddle rails bend.

I don't care about the weight of the saddle, just how strong the rails are and how comfy it is (I admire but have no desire to emulate people who cycle standing up. I have a bmi over 30, give me some credit for voluntarily cycling 20 miles a day)


texts: Shimano GRX groupset with mechanical brakes for CX/Gravel

texts:
I'm going to upgrade my cyclocross bike with new 1x11 dedicated components. Currently bike has old 105 5700 groupset and cantilever brakes. Those mechanical brakes are the main problem - I don't want to go on hydraulic discs because I've got quite new and good wheels for rim brakes and not compatible frameset.

I see 2 solutions, but non of them seems to be ideal;

1. Buy GRX 1x11 group and mix them with road ultegra shifters. Is it possible to use front 2x11 shifter for 1x11 drive? (I don't see any problem with using only brake lever, and have shifting unnecessary)
Do you think ultegra shifters are ok for off-road? Maybye something from other shimano group is better? All I know is that GRX has special design which should give more comfort

2. Buy SRAM Apex 1x11 for mechanical brakes - seems to be easy solution but I have already road bike with ultegra and I'm not very convinced that using different shifting in 2 bikes is a good idea, especially when I participate in races both on road and CX.

I'll be very grateful for any ideas/suggestions


texts:
I'm kind of frustrated by this, because after long time of internet searching, I found none that would satisfy my needs.

The problem is that I want to HAND-DRAW my route by first clicking it's endpoints, then refining the route in between.  So, I need a tool that will have ONE feature that all other tools lack - INSERTING a point between two points already in place.  Of course, it has to work ON google maps in satellite mode, so I can map across the fields and so on.

I don't care for an algorithm, since it is useless - I'm not following charted roads.

BTW: HAND-DRAW above means to draw it by hand on a computer, not on a paper :)


texts:
I have an old Cannondale road bike with Suntour shifters.

When I shift from the front middle ring to the small inner-most ring, the chain falls into the gap and binds tightly between the two rings. The chain seems to be an appropriate width for the back cassette and there doesn't seem to be anything that I can tighten to close the gap between the two rings (the two are screwed together and seem tightly affixed to one another).

Aside from not using the inner-most ring, I'm at a loss for what to do. Any ideas (aside from a fixie)?


texts: Rear cassette 'ticking' forward, making chain catch, what is the problem and how do I solve it?

texts:
I have a Giant Rapid 4, bought in 2009.

When freewheeling (i.e. rolling forward but not pedalling) on my bicycle, the chain catches. I had a look and I think this is because the rear cassette sometimes gets 'caught' slightly and moves with the wheel.

This doesn't seem to be a problem when pedalling, but when I am not pedalling and the front gears are not moving, the chain catches. It actually broke my chain.

Just put a new chain on, but I'm reluctant to ride it until this problem is resolved fully, otherwise the new chain will be stressed and may break again.

So, what could cause the rear cassette to be 'carried' forward by the wheel? Is it a bearings problem, or do I need a new cassette? Thanks.

Edit. I took off the cassette and dismantled the hub, it was the freehub body which was broken. It sounded and felt like one of the bearings inside it was broken. However the Shimano freehub disassembly tool is no longer sold and I couldn't find one second hand. The rim was worn anyway so I treated myself to new wheels and reused the old cassette, which was still ok.


texts:
In

this question

I asked about clipless pedals.  The term float came up.  I think that float refers to how far you need to turn your shoe in order to release it from the pedal.  Q1: Is this correct?

I think that when I buy clipless pedals I will need three things:

Shoes
Pedal
Clip that screws onto shoe that will fit in pedal

Q2: Is this correct?

Assuming I am right about that I think that the shoe that I buy will be independent of how much float there is.  Q3: Is this correct? Can I buy any shoe and change the level of float by changing the clips?


texts:
In a previous question it was explained to me that no cables pass under the top tube of my Specialized Hardrock, so that the bike is easy to shoulder.

Well, it isn't. The top tube is quite thin (V-shaped) and the only way I can pull this off for more than a couple of minutes is to place the bike exactly over the shoulder strap of my backpack. But maybe I am doing it wrong.

How to shoulder an MTB? Should the bike be parallel to the ground or vertical, or tilted? Are there some bike designs that are aimed to be carried (besides all light bikes) - maybe the cyclo-cross bikes?  Are there any suitable preparations before leaving to a journey in the high mountains, where one will be passing very difficult terrain with the bike on the back?*

Very difficult for someone carrying a bulky bicycle and a backpack with food, at least. Summer weather, maybe muddy.  About 2000 meters height. Crags and plenty of options to trip and fall.


texts: Will brand matter between a rear derailleur and front derailleur?

texts: I had a crash recently that destroyed my 8 speed sensah reflex rd. I replaced it with a 9 speed shimano sora for a bit of upgrade but after 4 tune ups by the mechanic its still not right. Just so discouraged pls help. I noticed also that my rd hanger is kind of a little bent or not straight enough will this matter? Thank so much in advance...