texts: Have old bar end shifters which don't seem to fit in the new handlebars

texts:
I retrieved the Shimano bar end shifters from some old handlebars and now I want to fit the shifters to new bars.

However strangely  I can't fit the shifters in the new bars. See the following photo:

I don't understand why this happens: I have loosened the stick of the  bar end shifter enough so the the clamps can "fall" to the centre.  Here a photo to illustrate this:

?

Some more details:

The new bars should have the same inner diameter than the old bars.
Even more important; The  shifters don't seem to fit back into the old bars either.

Do I overlook something? Do I do something wrong? Or are the shifters just broken?

Update 2 days later

I have payed around with the shifters - and noticed that apparently the area of the handlebars which is on the inside wide enough differs between the old and the new bar:

I found this out by using the screw with the cone head which goes through the clamps of the shifter: With an allen key I held the srew as far into the hanldebars as possible.

In the old handlebars I can fit the whole screw in:

However in the new handlebars only approx 2/3 of the screw fit in:

It explains why I cannot fit the whole shifter in the new bar even with grease and lots of wiggling!

Not sure what to make it tough: I can think of two explanations for the difference:

Either it is a manufacturer fault. (The new bar is from the same manufacturer as the old one and both are designed for bar-ends.)
Or newer Shimano bar-ends have a shorter stick part than older versions of Shimano shifters have.

Any ideas? (Particularly abot explanation 2.)


texts: I'm not sure what type of solvent to use to clean a derailleur.


texts: With a cartridge BB if the shell threads are aligned on the same axis can the cartridge be unthreaded drive side with NDS cup in place?

texts:
If the BB shell's drive-side and NDS threads are aligned on the same axis, can the cartridge be backed out of the drive side while the NDS cup is still in place in the shell?
Edit: When I tried to do this as an experiment the cartridge got pulled away from the NDS bearing, so that the drive-side spindle got shorter:


texts: My rear cogs (not sure on the correct name) turn at force even when stationary.

texts:
I got a new bike and was riding it home and every so often it felt like the chain wasn't there and my feet pedal a little faster and then all of a sudden it would go back to normal. I looked in to this when I got home and discovered that when I have both brakes on and try and pedal, with some tension the pedals would turn a little bit with the cogs at the front and rear.

Not sure if this is a new thing they put on bikes as I have not had one in a few years so just trying to figure out if it is a problem or not.


texts: How to carry a bike box from the start to end of the trip?

texts: I'm planning for a cycling trip from Srinagar (starting point) to Leh (Ending point) approx 450 kms. Going to Srinagar in Flight and coming back to my city from Leh via flight only. So, I have to pack my cycle properly in cardboard box. I can take my cycle to Srinagar in a bike box and I will need to use the same box while returning from Leh. For that I have to carry the it from Srinagar to Leh somehow. There is no courier facility in that place. Can you suggest me how can I take it?


texts: Are Suntour XCM30 forks adjustable with lockout?

texts:
I have a couple of issues I could do with some answers, I hope you don't mind me asking all in one go.

I have a Carrera 29er that came with Suntour XCM30 Forks, the store that sold it has the specifications listed as :

Adjustable - NO
Lockout - NO

After looking on the Suntour website I found what I think are the ones in question but they list them as :

Adjustable - Yes
Lockout - Yes

Suntour Website XCM

So to keep this from getting too long :

Are my forks adjustable?
Can they be locked out?
If so, can it be done with a basic toolkit?

Attached pics of my front end and the spec sheet from the store the bike came from.

Image 1
Image 2
Image 3
Image 4
Image 5


texts: Which bicycle cameras are suitable for all weather 11+ hours food delivery cyclists

texts:
I am a bicycle food delivery boy.

After a close pass forcing line variation followed by a threat of assault using a motor vehicle I now desire to mount cameras for evidence.

I also want to mount cameras to contribute to the mapillary project.

I require cameras that:

Mount front rear and helmet
Have audio for evidential purposes
Have enough resolution for evidential purposes
Record 11+ hours for mapillary
Are water proof against torrential rain
Are drop proof against normal working life on a bicycle
Function at night for evidential purposes
Are pit lock secureable or equivalent to the bike and helmet
Auto delete old content so I don't have to fiddle to keep the storage ready to work

I desire cameras that:

Have gps inbuilt
Auto pause when not moving and auto resume when moving to conserve data and battery
Function at night without requiring settings changes from having functioned in daylight


texts:
A friend is willing to sell me at a friendly price the Thule roof rack pictured below.

It's home will be a Subaru Outback that already has the crossbars (see the blue rectangles above)

Any thoughts on how to securely attach the red-highlighted racks above to the cross-bars below?


texts: Incorrect number of clicks on SRAM MRX gear shifter

texts:
I purchased a bike with a "7 gear" SRAM MRX 200-70 gear shifter. However, the SRAM gear shifter only clicks 6 time (corresponding to 6 gear changes).

Is the SRAM gear shifter faulty, and in need of replacement? Or can I make an adjustment to access the 7th gear?

Note: when the cable is completely slack, I can still only hear six clicks.


texts:
I was replacing a tyre a couple of days ago, and noticed my rear axle had snapped.

So I replaced the axle, just a normal road 10mm x 145mm, it's a basic Shimano sprocket set and no-name aluminium rear hub.

I fitted the new axle, with new bearings and plenty of grease, that all seemed fine.

On the bike though, the wheel is not straight.  Oddly it seems to come from the sprocket side of the rear hub.  I would say the axle oscillates within the hub, as the wheel turns.  This is probably best explained with a video. The oscillations occur once per revolution.

Things I've checked...
* That I've not put too many bearings in either side.
* That the hub, where the bearings sit, is not damaged.  I think it's OK, though it's hard to see.

Things I think it might be, but not sure...
* Have I bent the hub? Not sure if that's even possible.
* Some other deformation in the hub.

Update

Thanks to Andrew Henle and Noah Sutherland for the comments, both really helpful. So, I took off the freewheel and checked the number of bearings.

Taking off the freewheel and a rubber grommet meant I could get a much better look at what was happening.  From this, I think the hub itself is distorted, but I'm not sure really.  There was some damage to the part of the hub where the bearings sit, but just really small scratches.  You can see the uneven movement in the short video below.

At this point, I think I need a new hub.  I guess the impact that snapped the axle also distorted the hub.

Keen to hear if anyone else has further thoughts on this though.


texts: Why are frame pads no longer readily available?

texts:
When mountain bikes first became popular people were a lot more likely to buy a full set of frame pads than a helmet. Obviously helmets had all of the aesthetic appeal of a lycra covered fan-heater back then, however, frame pads were what you had if you really went off road and were serious about your mountain biking. They were not seen as frivolous, just sensible, a bit like a helmet. In the UK nobody would walk out of a bike shop with anything from a brand new Kona Cindercone to a Raleigh Maverick unless it was bedecked with at least one 'Cosmic Trail' frame pad in some garish colour.

As well as protecting your nether regions from the bike during an accident they also protected the frame from damage and made it a lot easier to carry the bike up stairs or over a fence. They had their uses on car-racks too. The benefits were undeniable even if the florescent did have a tendency to fade.

Then, one day, when nobody was looking, they were suddenly removed from the bike shops and made no longer available for purchase. Were they that good that the powers that be in the bike trade had to kill them off, much like GM and the electric car?

Why have they not had a continued place in the market place? Given today's 'scratch 'n' snap' carbon frames and the fad for downhill-mountain-biking one would have thought they would be more popular than ever. As it is you only have a few pretend-messengers using them to hide the fact that their bike has got braze ons for the back brake and is not a true fixie.

Here is an advert for what was the UK's market leader - 'Cosmic Trail'. The all in one top tube and stem pad had the added advantage of smoothing out your steering making the bars less prone to being jolted by rocks etc.


texts: How to safely transport a Brompton by air?

texts:
I now own a Brompton folding bike.  (Fortunately, I bought my plane tickets first, as I am also now broke!)

Anyone here ever checked one into baggage in a B-bag, and suffer damage?  If so, what parts were damaged?  I want to protect those parts, and I don't want to disassemble/reassemble.  I suspect the bag itself is more likely to be damaged than the bike, but would like to learn from the experience of others.

Anyone here ever carried one on?  I've read that this can be done, but after seeing it in the bag, I don't believe it.  In fact, I think they're going to charge me extra for the size.  (See update below.)  Which reminds me of another related question:

Has anyone ever been charged extra on the grounds that the picture of a bike on each side of the bag makes it "sports equipment"?

UPDATE: Checked from IQT to LIM on Star-Peru.  Completely unusable on arrival.  Repairs very expensive.  Also, it does NOT fit in most airline overheads and is significantly larger than the explicit limits for carry-ons at many airlines.  Perhaps (as I've been told) it can be done on Southwest, but Southwest doesn't go anywhere that requires an airline.

UPDATE TWO: Every trip with the B-bag, there has been minor damage, but not nearly the disaster of Star-Peru.  I finally went and got a Chubby which protects it much better and carries all my other stuff between flights.  At the airport, fold the Brompton, empty the Chubby, put the Brompton in it, pack some of my things around it, and carry on the rest.  Have to pay an oversize fee, or a bike fee, depending on the airline.  Sometimes it's hard to predict which.  Some airlines will treat it more gently if they know it's a bike; some the opposite.  Also hard to predict.


texts: What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute?

texts: Four times a year I teach a workshop called "Be a Bike Commuter" for the local university's community education program.  It's mostly based on my experience and information from the League of American Bicyclists.  I am looking at making some changes for the next session and am wondering, from other experienced commuters, what things you wish someone would have told you that would have made your first few commutes more successful and/or enjoyable.


texts:
So, my front mudguard got a bit hot recently (bike was parked in the full sun w/o wind). It was not happy about this and got very tired, leaning to the lower right below the lamp. Now every little bump results in the mudguard rubbing against the wheel - which is rather annoying.

I thought about using a hair dryer to heat the mudguard again, bending it back to its original position, fixating it and waiting for it to cool off. Has anyone done this? Could it be feasible, or is it to be expected, that the material gets even more tired by bending it back, leading to not enough stability?


texts: Power output on rollers doesn't seem to match perceived effort

texts:
I have a Garmin Vector Power meter (one-side) and I use plain Tac-X rollers with no technical bits on them.  My speed and power come from sensors on the bike.

My power output seems low relative to my perceived effort compared to when riding on the road. I'm knackered between 200-300W and dying if I push towards 400W.  On the road I am relatively comfortable at 200W and on a push I can go to 400W for say a short steep climb.  When I slow down, I am still pretty tired spinning at 150W output on the rollers.

I don't doubt the accuracy of my power meter(or rather I don't doubt that the power meter works indoors as it does outdoors), so why does it feel so different?

Thanks


texts:
I am a two-time cancer survivor ...head/neck and lung (they removed a lobe in the second instance) ... I have been biking for a couple of years now (I bought a fixie, since it was cheap and I wasn't sure I would be able to cut it), and I try to ride three or four times a week, but in the range of 5-8 miles each session.  I like to think this is helpful in terms of overall fitness and breathing, but haven't found anything to confirm this. Always trying to expand on distance, but so far stuck in this range.
 Thoughts?


texts: Does Shimano cassette tool work on Campy cassette?

texts:
I have a Campagnolo 10-speed cassette on the way, and I just want to know if I'll need a new cassette lockring tool to install it. I already have the tool for Shimano/Sram cassettes. In the pictures I looked at, the splines on the lockring look similar, but not quite the same:

-- EDIT --

This is the tool I have. And this is the tool I'm supposed to have. The splines may have fit, except the diameter is off by 0.6 mm, which sounds like just enough to make it incompatible. So I guess the answer's no. Damn Campagnolo, always making things harder...


texts:
I'm contemplating whether or not to buy a Bianchi vintage mixte bike. I was told that it's a 1986 Bianch Strada but I have never seen a serial number like this: 51027563 (all numbers no letters). Photos are attached below. If someone knowledgeable about Bianchi bikes could answer these questions it'd be of tremendous help!

Is this bike a 1986 Bianchi Strada?
Given this 8-digit serial number is this a real Bianchi bike (and not a knockoff)?


texts: How to avoid damaging spoke nipples when wheel building

texts:
I have just successfully built two wheels.
The final step of the process was perfecting the true and the dish.
I used a spoke key for this, and this resulted in unwanted scuffing and nicks on the (brass) spoke nipples.
Is there any way I could have avoided this?


texts: Disk brake has never worked properly from new, pads replaced - still rubbish!

texts:
I've got Shimano hydraulic disc brakes and ever since I've had the bike (from new) the front brake has never worked properly. It used to squeak really loudly and perform badly but I assumed they just needed bedding in (taking the bike back to where I got it from wasn't really an option as I bought it from a shop far from where I live (long story)). After riding around 100 miles on the bike with no improvement I decided to get the pads replaced. The squeaking isn't as loud, but it still does squeak and the performance is still rubbish.

I've read about cleaning the pads and discs with alcohol which I've now done and that hasn't made any difference either so I'm all out of ideas.

It's really annoying as I used to have cable V-brakes which worked brilliantly! My friend is also having trouble with his disc brakes and I'm starting to think disc brakes are more trouble that they're worth?!

Any suggestions would be appreciated!


texts: Centermounted kickstand on touring cyclocross

texts:
I just got a new bicycle (cyclocross meant for touring) and a center-mounted kickstand (Pletscher Twin), but it seems it won't fit with the standard mounts. Is this a common issue, and do I have to make a custom fitting to get around it?

This is how they want me to mount:

But this is what my bicycle looks like (too tight for the standard mount):

Update: Inspired by Batmans suggestions I ended up going for an Upstand: http://upstandingbicycle.com/about-us/


texts: Should my aftermarket frame have a serial number on it?

texts:
I was riding a mostly custom WTP Crysis frame which had a serial in case the bike was lost or stolen. I snapped the drop out arms on Sunday and ended up buying a new FBM Hard Way frame. I checked all over and haven't seen the serial numbers. Part of me thinks there should definitely be one, but I'm not sure where to look.

Does FBM allow me to register it online? I don't want to be at the point where the only evidence of it being my bike is "I have this pic of it in my apartment" and a bike shop receipt. But my bike shop receipt only says "BMX 20.75" frame" and doesn't say make, model or even color.


texts:
So I have raced TT's locally for a couple of years and have decided to (finally) get aerobars and am tuning the bike to fit, however, my seat at it's max tilt downwards is probably 1 degree up (see photo for how seat rises at tip.) this isn't an issue for normal road riding, but for tt and tri position it is uncomfortable and unsustainable for 30 mins.

here is a similar seat image (not my actual seat). I was wondering if I should add some padding over the tip (i normally shuffle forwards on the seat even though its as far forward on the rails as possible) or if i should get a new TT specific saddle (will this be ok for road riding?). Any ideas?

p.s. im a newbie to bike stack exchange, so critique me if you want to :), cheers

here is a similar seat post to my actual one


texts: Rec for bike backpack with side zipper into main compartment

texts:
I got a used SAG Life Air Force 1 backpack from a friend, after deciding that a messenger bag was just too heavy when it was full for my one shoulder to bear. I primarily use the bag for urban commuting, hauling everything from my work stuff and u-lock to groceries.

After using the SAG backpack for a year, I'm again on the search for a new bag. This one is good overall, and the capacity when it's extended and full is insane (this picture does it justice), but generally it doesn't fit me well. It's way too long in the torso, even when it isn't full, which I can tell by where the hip belt hits my hips-- more around my bum than waist. I suspect its too-big fit is because the bag is primarily designed for dudes, and I am a lady with a smaller frame.

However, the SAG bag does have another, crucial, game-changing feature: a side zipper that allows me to get into the main compartment of the bag. This way, I can just slide it one-shouldered around to my front and get into the bag from the side, messenger-bag style,  without taking it off and unrolling the top. (This photo sort of shows what I mean with a laptop, but I can get into the whole main compartment of the bag this way.)

Are there other brands of stock (i.e. non-custom-made) bike bags that have this feature that make expandable backpacks? Is it something that anyone has seen on a bag that isn't a SAG Life bag? The other problem is that because this brand is Japanese, it's kind of hard to find in the U.S., so even another SAG bag with smaller dimensions might be hard to find so I can try it on before purchasing.

I've looked at Timbuk2, and as far as I can tell from the photos and product descriptions, the bags that they say have a "swing-around" feature, there's only access to the laptop sleeve, except with the Phoenix, which seems to have the same dimensions as the Airforce 1 bag and it doesn't come in other sizes.

I've also looked at Chrome and Mission Workshop and neither company seems to have a bag with this feature.

Am I going to have to go custom to get this feature on a bag that will fit me?


texts: Missing Link -- which one, 7.3mm or 7.1mm?

texts:
KMC has two versions of their Missing Link, one that is 7.3mm and one that is 7.1mm. Both are advertised for 6/7/8 speed.

The only difference appears to be the pin length, but it's unclear if you had a non-SRAM/KMC chain, what you'd measure to make sure you got the right chain.

How can you measure -- or otherwise tell -- which Missing Link you should get?


texts:
Assume I have a couple of closed bearings on some pivots on my bicycle.

These bearings:

are fitted on a housing
have an axle going through them
are tightened by bolts which also have cups to "protect" the black plastic part of the closed bearing

My question is, would you use grease between that black plastic part and the axle cup to protect the bearing from water and dust? I'm talking about a lot of waterproof grease which upon bolt tightening will overflow. Of course I will wipe out any excess after tightening.

I'm asking because even if the bearings are of high quality, I will sometimes find that dust or other small particles have entered its inside area making the bearing lose its smoothness and eventually making it wear faster. So, could that extra grease on the outside act as protection?

Edit: This question doesn't regard greasing inside the bearing. I'm asking whether puting grease on the bearing, covering the metal and the black part, will prevent water and dust from entering.


texts:
I need to replace a circuit board on my Bodyguard R6X exercycle. Bodyguard sent me the circuit board but little else with respect to information/instructions.
I need to pull a crank so I need to buy a crank tool. Are all cranks the same thread?


texts:
Background: I have spent most of my time riding mountain bikes but I have recently started riding road sometimes too.  I really like the position the road bike puts you in and the fact that you have multiple different hand positions.  So I want to start riding my road bike more.

I have a retro steel Norco road bike.  (Although I am interested in answers regarding aluminum road bikes too).

I am curious how much I need to baby my road bike.

Can I drop off curbs on my road bike?
What about logging roads and trails are they fair game?  Can I do some drops?
When I add a rack to my road bike how much gear can I put on it before I do damage to the bike?

I am not interested in whether it is a good idea to ride a road bike down a muddy bumpy trail.  What I am asking is will I hurt my bike?  Even though my bike was second hand and cost me less than $100 I have a strong relationship with it.

Recognizing Problems: I know that I may damage my wheels doing more agressive riding.  It is pretty easy to eye-ball wheels to see if they are ridable.  Is this true for the frame as well?  If I do structural damage to the frame would it be obvious?

Cross: I think that cyclocross bikes are designed for the kind of riding that I am describing.  Is there any difference between my retro road bike and a cyclocross bike?

Question: How cautious do I need to be to avoid damaging my road bike?


texts:
I have a 18 speed bike. There are two chain rings in the front and 9 cogs at the back. I am new to cycling and I wish to know which gear combinations should I avoid to prolong the life of the chain and gears and avoid cross chaining. So can someone help me please. The labels are like this:

(1-9) at the rear with 9 being the smallest
 (1-2) at the front with 1 being the smallest

can you please write down which combinations i should not use if i am conservative or wish to be on the safe side. thank you


texts: Do brake cables become more elastic with time?

texts:
I bought a used bike a few months ago, and I've noticed a drastic reduction in brake power.
At first, I was easily able to lock-up the rear wheel while squeezing the brake lever only half-way to the handle bar.
Now, I can squeeze the brake lever all the way to the handle bar and I'm experiencing negligible stopping power. I've shortened the brake cable at the caliper several times, and it's now as tight as I can make it without causing it to close slightly and rub the rim. Squeezing the lever slightly causes the brake to close and contact the rim, but I can continue squeezing all the way to the handle bar and still not apply any real stopping power. It feels as though the cable has become more elastic with time, like the whole rear brake system is softer to the point of being nearly useless.
Is this "normal"? Is it an indication that it's time to replace the cable? Is replacing the cable likely to make my brakes more responsive?
Update
Upon closer inspection, my brake pads are worn down to plastic-on-metal; there is no rubber left at all. This is very likely the cause for my perceived soft braking, and definitely the cause of the lack of brake power.


texts: 'Best' Gear inch to start with on a fixed gear? Moderatley hilly area

texts: For a starting fixie rider, what is there a 'best' Gear inch to start with?  Moderatley hilly area.


texts: Why don't seat tube lengths on modern bikes match their assigned sizes?

texts:
I was under the impression that bikes were sized according to the seat tube length; thus, a 56 cm frame would have a 56 cm seat tube length. However, on some modern bike frames (see Specialized Tarmac SL6 frame sizing below), a size 56 frame has a seat tube length of only 50.1 cm. What is the reason for this discrepancy?
I am speculating that on modern bike geometries, the traditional measurements such as seat tub length, top tube length, etc. are not enough to indicate whether the bike would be a good fit for a potential rider so the manufacturers estimate an "effective seat tube" length useful for sizing?

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/s-works-tarmac-sl6-disc-frameset/p/171355?color=271763-171355&searchText=70620-0744


texts:
I am converting my 80s steel peugeot to a fixed gear. I have purchased most of the parts an had a wheel built onto a SS hub.

Now, SS hubs are narrower than road hubs - 120mm vs 130mm (although I think my bike is 126mm as it was a 6-speed). The axle on my new hub is plenty long enough to span the rear fork but the hub itself is too narrow.

I've been to a local chain bike shop to see if they stock dedicated spacers but they can't help. I essentially need 2 3mm spacers to bridge fill the extra width.

What's the best way to sort this? I can try a LBS but would a 3mm nut that screws onto the axle suffice? If I can find such a thing...


texts: While putting back a tire without appropriate tools (screwdriver...), I made a dent in the wheel (aluminum, I think). Is this bad ? Do I risk more than a puncture driving with this ? It looks like this:


texts:
My mountain bicycle has 3 chainrings at the front and 7 cogs at the back, making it a 21 gears bike, which are shifted by a derailleur system.

Although it is 25 years old, everything seems to work fine, except for switching gears down from 3-7 to 3-6 and from 3-6 to 3-5. (With X-Y I mean Xth ring, Yth cog.) Whenever I try one of these two particular shifts, they take longer to kick in and in the meantime I hears "clicks" from the mechanism, differently from the other shifts, which take effect fast and smoothly.

The same behavior also happens in another 21 gears bicycle I sometimes ride, which leads me to the question:

Is this effect widespread and normal or is it a malfunction I'd better repair?


texts: Tubeless tire deflating through sidewall

texts:
On my mountain bike I have Continental X-King tires (tubeless ready) on tubeless ready rims. I rode them a couple of times with tubes and now I went for tubeless setup with Stan's NoTubes Sealant.

At first everything looked fine, but they keep on deflating slowly. From 3 bar to 1 bar in roughly 10 hours. I've submerged the tires in water to see what's wrong. There are no major cuts or holes, just very small bubbles are leaking through the sidewalls. I did a couple of rides to distribute the sealant inside the tire, I also tried leaving the wheel laying horizontally overnight, but no luck so far.

Is it going to fix by itself after a few more pump-ups, or is the tire bad?


texts: How should a good CX riding position "feel" (alternative to highly scientific measurements...)

texts:
I'm switching from MTB full-suspension down-hill riding to something more flat - at the moment I'm looking at a CX for 80% road, 20% offroad usage.

Unfortunately, I've never, except for short test rides, used a road bike for any amount of time. So I know somewhat how to sit on it, but I don't have much experience with how it should "feel".

So I'm quite at the mercy of salesmen right now. Sure, I will assume that they have the best intentions, but the problem is that I find it hard to judge whether a specific bike geometry is as it should be. It could well be that there is the perfect bike out there for me, but as I'm not used to the lower riding position I may only notice that after a few weeks of riding, after my body adapts and all such.

Is this the case, in your experience, or should the "correct" position just feel great right off the bat? I am not talking Tour de France performance level here, just standard hobby riding (I am reasonably fit and agile). Are there particular "body signs" I should be looking for, which tell me that the bike is a good fit; in addition to the expert at the store measuring my limbs and all that good stuff?


texts: Has the Mongoose Black Diamond 2 Frame been released?

texts:
Does anyone here knows if Mongoose has already produced this frame and is out on the market?

Or it was just in their drawing table and didn't produce it? Because i haven't seen this frame on their offering in their site. I like this frame because of its simplicity and beauty though I haven't ridden this bike before.


texts:
I was recently given a mountain bike for free, which I could fix for use by my husband. It is just missing the rear wheel and freewheel/cassette. As far as I can tell it would have been a 7 speed one,as there are seven gears on the handlebars (correct me if I am wrong) plus the three on the front crank.
Could anyone tell me how I would know if I need a freewheel or a cassette, or if it matters? For info:

26 inch 36 spoke wheel on front
Shimano SIS rear derailleur
Shimano altus front derailleur
SRAM twist shifters I think
it will just be used for laid back family rides
it is a Explor brand made in 2000

Everything needs cleaning but seems to work. It is a bit modern for me! My other bikes are all 70's and 80's so it will be fun to do something new. I have never done indexed gears before
Many thanks for any advice.
Gill


texts: Shimano Ultegra Bottom bracket replacement with Dura-Ace

texts:
The bottom bracket on my Van Nicholas Astraeus is a creaking when going up hills. It's already been tightened recently, yet seems to creek more and more lately - probably due to the mileage (many, many thousands of miles).

The bottom bracket is a Shimano Ultegra 6700 (SM-BB6700), I've been looking at upgrading the unit.  I have an existing Shimano Ultegra crankset, would a Shimano Dura Ace 7900 Bottom Bracket be compatible with this setup?  I'm also looking at Hope bottom brackets, do ceramic bottom brackets last longer?  Or are they just smoother?


texts: Getting started with carbon fiber DH/XC wheels

texts: I'm looking for some carbon fiber DH or XC wheels and don't know where to start, as I'm new to this. Could you give me some help on where to get started?


texts: Are these scratches at carbon fiber something to worry?

texts: the seller showed me all the scratches at the bike and told that they happened when he was carrying bike and & changing rear wheel all the time. I did not notice any other scratches at the frame. All of these are around rear wheel hub. Are they something to worry? Paint or just structural scratches?


texts: Independent ranking of bicycles aerodynamics

texts: Are there any scientific and independent evaluations of different bicycles from an aerodynamics perspective?


texts: How to mount wire bead tyres without damaging them?

texts:
I have a Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700x25 tyre which is very difficult to mount on my rim. The rubber has almost no flexibility. The wire make the tyre directly goes either outside the rim, or inside the edges of the walls of the rim. I can mount it though, but with damages to the edges of the tyre:

and with one or two broken levers:

How to mount these tyres without damaging the beads of the tyre and without too much strength?


texts: Is there a non-proprietary standard for oval seat-tube/post?

texts:
I see Pinarello Dogma and Gan S frames have a proprietary seatpost/seattube combination, which don't have a circular section. An advantage of that design in my opinion is that it's impossible to have the saddle not aligned when adjusting the height of the seatpost. One disadvantage I can see is that if the seatpost is not properly greased and get stuck, you don't have much freedom of movement to leverage on in order to unstuck it. In any case, I was wondering:

  Is there any standard for seatposts that don't have a circular section?

Say one wants to build their own frame with this feature. Is it possible to have this on a steel frame? And if it exists, what's the most common standard so that it's easy to find seat tubes and replacement seatpost?


texts: Shimano roller brakes: differences between each model and interchangeability

texts:
One of my bikes has mounted a Shimano Roller Brake (BR-IM35 FF in my case).
These brakes on my bike are basically not working anymore and I would like to replace them (it's not a cable issue. They were already bad when I bought the bike, I've never worried about greasing them and now they are null...)

My problem is now to find which one to choose. There's more than one version but I haven't found anywhere what is the difference between them (besides the price!). For example these websites have some examples:

https://en.hollandbikeshop.com/bicycle-parts-city-bike/bicycle-brakes/shimano-nexus-brakes/nexus-roller-brake/

https://bcbikeshop.dk/rullebremser

What I can guess is that the IM denomination comes from "Inter M":
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/shimano-inter-m

I've found these other discussion but no answer:
Difference between BR-IM and BR-C Shimano drum brakes?

And on the Shimano website there's no information whatsoever. I've even tried the spanish, american and japanese website :D. I've found googling only some assembly drawing like this one for my brakes: http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BR-IM35-FF-2776.pdf

Does anyone have any idea?! Are they still on production?

And well, if you're ending up on this discussion, you'll find some information on the might Sheldon Brown page:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rollerbrakes.html


texts:
I got a new bike a three or four weeks ago and have noticed the issue arise this last week or two.

When I'm going up a hill (or any heavy load), my gears will slip.  I don't think it's moving gears, it just seems to slip a bit.  My pedals will lose tension as I hear it slip, then will regain traction about a half a crank later.

This happens pretty regularly while pedaling in low gear, maybe once or twice a minute.


texts: What should I use to lubricate a freehub?

texts:
I've noticed my freehub has gotten quite a bit louder over the last few months. Several people have recommended that I lubricate the freewheel by tipping the bike on its side and dripping lubricant into the freewheel. However, I've gotten differing opinions on what to use for a lubricant.

Is it safe to use a chain lube on the freehub or is there a better lubricant for this purpose?

Edit: In response to one of the answers, I have a freehub (2011 bicycle). Question edited appropriately.


texts: How to register a custom built for Kryptonite's ATPO Program?

texts: When registering for Kryptonite's ATPO Program here, you are asked for a bicycle make and model. With a custom-built, I have no idea what to provide there. I contacted customer service, with no reply after a week. Given the limited time frame where one can register for the ATPO Program after lock purchase, I am getting worried. From the corresponding terms and conditions, I see nothing that would exclude custom-builts, which would at least explain asking for a specific make and model.


texts: What to wear under tights with fabric padding?

texts:
I have a pair of performance bike cold weather tights that have some fabric padding where a chamois normally would be. Should i wear these tights over underwear (worry about chaffing), bike shorts (too much padding) with chamois or nothing at all?

Never had a pair like this before, so I'm wondering what the best practice is with these type of tights?

There is no kind of foam or gel, just a thick piece of fabric.


texts: rear shifter lever gets stuck when shifting gears

texts:
All the shifting was working smoothly until my bike fell off to the ground (edit1: to my right side hitting the right side of the bike) with me couple days back. Now after about a week when I took my bike for a ride I found that the rear shifter doesn't work as intended.

The problem is when I push the lever (rear) to shift to a smaller gear (larger cog), the lever doesn't come back to the neutral position, thus I have to manually pull it back to the neutral position. When I push the lever, it sort of gets stuck there. So when I want to shift to higher gears I have to push the lever then take it back and then push it again and so on and so forth. Shifting to higher gears works perfectly and generally there's no problem with indexing or any other tunning thing, only thing is the lever getting stuck. Can't be a problem with cable either.

Front shifting working as usual. Today I opened the case just to see if I can find the reason for the issue by visual inspection but I can't identify anything to fix (have attached a pic after removing the rear shifter case).

Any help towards fixing this is highly appreciated!

bike: specialized sirrus,
gears: shimano alivio 8 speed

EDIT2: some other pics of the rear derailler (just for you to see if it's bent or not)

EDIT3 (closure): First I tried losing the cable tension to see if the lever is still stiff and it was. Which made it clear that the problem is with the shifter and not with the cable. And then I removed the back cover of the shifter and voila! it started working. But it gets stuck when I fully screw the nut in with the back cover. So I just screw it in to the extent that the lever is working and left it there.


texts: Does it matter how far backwards you can spin your drivetrain?

texts:
If I spun my cranks backwards on all my previous bikes I would get a good few spins out of them, maybe as many as three or four on one of the bikes. But with my current road bike I can barely get a full rotation out of it.
Does this matter? Is it an indication of the friction within the drivetrain, or just the way that some setups work, either by design or as a side-effect of how they're designed?
I'm guessing that it's the rear hub that slows it down, but there's no restriction in speed when riding fast or freewheeling that I can detect, and no excessive noise. It was an almost brand new Cannondale Optimo and the BB has been serviced.


texts: Bought slightly too big outer tube - options?

texts:
I've had good experience in the past with riding a racing bike with cross-bike outer tube (grip, protection against flats) in the city. So I bought similiar outer tubes again for my new racing bike.

Now, the outer tube on the front (did not install the rear one yet) touches the brake (body) with it's outer diameter and wont turn. Do I have any reliable and safe options to mount the wheel a bit lower? We would be talking about 2mm or so, I could adjust the brake pads if the wheel sat lower. I tried to use cable ties as istancers, but I don't trust this solution.

I would have the same problem with the rear wheel, But I think I have more options there (the part where the axle goes is adjustable in the horizontal, so I could get the wheel a bit away from the brake.

I could hand the tubes back to the store, but then I would be stuck with having to spend 70€ there and the tires I got are the best fit to what I want - hence this question.


texts: Changed chainset, bottom bracket, wheels and cogset and find these parts left over, and the rear wheel clicking?

texts:
I just changed the crankset, bracket, wheels and cogset (my first bike repair obviously) on my specialised tricross, and after my victory tea realised I had these three bits left over, and not sure where they're supposed to go? Also the back wheel clicks when coasting forwards? Many thanks for your help in advance

Please see better quality pics below. The parts are Shimano claris (at least the crankset is, not sure about the bracket) and the wheels are Aksiums. Thanks


texts: How do I repair a broken chain on my old BMX bike?

texts: I have an old bmx and my chain broke yesterday. I bought a new chain from WalMart.  It is 300 links for 1 speed but I don't know what is the bmx speed (gear); it was rusted but I fixed it up.  I left my bmx at a program that opens tomorrow but I'm afraid its the wrong chain.


texts: Can anyone help identify a (presumably) vintage Battaglin bike for my uncle?

texts:
My uncle fixed a man's shed, and was paid with this bike. He knows the man was quite into cycling before he retired, so we're presuming its quite a good bike, but we can't identify any more than the manufacturer; Battaglin.
We are torn between keeping it and using it, or - if its worth something - selling it on, and buying two cheap run-around bikes.
Does anyone have any tips on where we can look to find the model? Sadly, the bike shop on the sticker closed down some years ago.
Any help you can provide would be hugely appreciated!
Kindly,
R.


texts:
After years of usage, the spring of my FD does not return it to the smallest cog any more. Obviously, the FD has collected grit/dirt in its joints and the cage is jamming.
I do not see a way to clean it: joints are on rivets, not screws which could have been removed for disassembling. Any recommendations?


texts: Brakes won't release after being applied?

texts:
My son recently received a second hand bike with both hand and pedal (?) brakes.  He had been using the pedal brake because the hand brakes for both the front and rear were too loose to work well.  When you would apply the they barely touched the rim.

I attempted to fix the brakes by tightening up the cable which worked... sort of.  Now the issue is that the brakes won't release after they are applied.  They aren't applied with the same force as when the hand lever is applied, but they are still touching the rim which makes the bike painfully slow. If I pull open the caliper itself then the wheel spins freely.

I am referring to rim brakes; the types of hand brakes where there is a separate lever for front and rear and when you squeeze them little pads touch to the rim to stop the bike.

How can I adjust the brakes in such a way that they apply pressure to the rim but also release when the lever is released?


texts:
I currently have a 26" enduro bike. It already has some years but it works perfectly. Good front 160-180mm forks for 26" wheels are becoming more and more rare. The front 26" fork will eventually die at some point. Is there any way to put a 27" fork with a 26" or 27.5" wheel? Will this destroy the geometry?.

I am just curious if I will be able to keep my bike for more years without the need to hunt for second-hand 26" forks?


texts: What makes a cassette mountain bike vs. road bike?

texts: I'm in the market for a new cassette for my road bike and I frequently see cassettes listed as mountain bike or road bike. Since they're usually interchangeable and can be used on either type of bike, what makes manufacturers designate them as one type or the other?


texts:
My understanding is that air resistance is where most of the pedal power goes to at high speeds, and that this is a concern not least for the wheels: What you pay for in a road bike wheel is aerodynamic and/or light wheels, not so much to other losses like rolling resistance and bearings.

So if air resistance is the thing to optimize a wheel for, the wheel should be tiny. Obviously in width, but also in radius, because even shortening the length of a surface reduces boundary layer drag, and the top half of each wheel is basically a surface that moves faster than the rest of the bike. Has anybody thought of this?

Postulate: The faster angular speed of a small wheel is irrelevant to air resistance: If the forward speed is given, every point on the wheel at a given fractional wheel radius has a speed compared to the ground that is independent of the wheel radius. In other words, shrinking the wheel does not speed up any point on its surface; you just get less surface. Which should be good!

Some speed record bikes have had small wheels, including the current record holder.


texts:
I have a seasoned 26" Dirt Jump bike where the time has come to replace the bottom bracket. The bike currently has Profile BMX cranks, with a single speed rear wheel (not an MTB freehub). Current BB uses external cups which means that the standard 5.5" axle is too short to tighten up correctly and occasionally have the cranks work it's way loose. With the external cups the chainline also isn't great.

Now the simple option is to go back to an internal Euro BB, but was surprised to see how expensive these are now, so was looking at my options given that 1x drivetrains have become popular. Would also give me the opportunity to go up a couple of teeth on the sprocket to 32.

Am I likely to run into any issues converting to a modern MTB crank. It looks like I can find a 73mm BSA threaded DUB BB/Hollowtech. My two main concerns are:

What chain compatibility do I have we a 1x chainring, can I use a single speed chain?
1x drivetrains are common on bikes with 142 mm rear spacing compared to my bikes 135mmm rear spacing. Will my chainline be ok on a crank designed for a wider rear spacing?

update: I've found the driver on from the manufacturer. Doesn't specifically say what chains are compatible unfortunately, but I'm guessing I could measure the width of the teeth to see if a narrower multi-speed chain would work or am I oversimplifying this? link


texts: which is better a sram 11 speed or shimano 10 speed FD with shimano 105 11speed groupset

texts:
I have bought an 11 speed shimano 105 groupset, unfortunately the 11 speed FD does not fit my bike (It is an Airnimal Chamelion).  Therefore I have a choice of Sram 11 speed FD or Shimano 105 10speed ?

please advise which is best?


texts: Is there a site which has a good collection of recumbent bikes, still for sale new, to compare?

texts:
I am ready for a new recumbent bike and I know what I want, I also know that I will not be able to get all features in one bike as they are contradictory.

Searching internet shows me a lot of sites with one or a few bikes each or with bikes for sale but not much detail.
On top of that many of the bikes you see described online have been out of sale for years and are very unlikely to be available second hand.

I am based in the Netherlands but with the market as international as it is these days any site with a good collection will be welcome.
Bikes still new in the shops and/or those which have been new in the shops the last 5 years. Sites that collect all that has ever been on sale are less useful.

As I will have to drop some of my 'want have' requirements, I do not look for any particular selection of recumbent bikes.

PS, I am NOT looking for where to buy the recumbent when I have decided on it, I want to weed out a lot of bikes before trying to get to see them because they will not fit my body length or seat height requirements.
I have at least three dedicated recumbent stores within an hour driving distance and at least one local bike store which will order and maintain 'bents but does not usually store them.

I have been riding a recumbent bike for the last 5 years and a recumbent trike for the 5 years before that.
I have been with one or the other to each of the 10 bike shops I feel are near enough to use for common servicing and non of them was selling or even interested in talking about the option of selling this kind of bikes new in the future.
The one bike shop with some recumbents is far enough away that I consider them with the recumbent specialist I will go to when buying but not for day to day service.
(If not cycling, I will be walking the bike to the shop, no use of a car)


texts:
Have an older Niner Air 9 Carbon that has the original Biocentric eccentric hub.
Does anyone know if the Biocentric II is compatible?


texts: Issue with PF30 BB on Boost frame - 2-3mm crank arm clearance

texts:
I have a brand new Titanium Boost 29er hardtail.  The frame uses a PF30 BB and the BB shell is 73mm wide.

I have installed the recommended RaceFace cinch PF30 bottom bracket with a Race face Next SL crank - 175mm arms and 32t single chain-ring.

The problem is that the clearance between the chain stay and the crank arm is next to nothing.  There is no contact yet but I am unable to run the recommended crank boot protector.

The instruction for this BB so not to use any spacers since it 73mm (68mm ones use spacers).

Adding spacers wont help as it does not lengthen the spindle.  I do not see how a Shimano XTR/XT crank will work here either since it has the same Q-factor.

Any other ideas?


texts: Cannondale super v 700 with a bad Headshock

texts:
This is my 3rd headshock that has gone bad..I was told to replace it with a new fork rather than try to fix it.  I need help picking out a new fork that's not too expensive or tell me how to fix the one I have.

How do I determine if a new fork is compatible with my bike?


texts: Rear shock mounting hardware for Felt Virtue 2015

texts:
I recently bought a Felt Virtue 2015 aluminum frame. Just wondering if anyone else who bought the same frame have the correct sizing for the rear shock mounting hardware.

For reference this is the frame I bought https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/felt-virtue-al-29-full-suspension-frame-2015/rp-prod187393


texts:
I've seen chains with so many colours, white, red, you name it.

I would like to give it a try (this paint job is intended for visual styling of the bike, nothing related to protecting it), but I have no clue on how to do it.

I think there must be a way to paint it without "glueing" the links with paint, I don't know if spray paint does that or not... I'm sure I need to degrease it first, but then what follows?

So, the question:

How do I paint a chain without ruining it? (the painted chain needs to be in working conditions, it will be used).


texts:
I sustained a knee injury about a year ago and it's looking like I won't be biking anytime soon.  I thought that a good alternative would be to get into hand cycling.  I am having a hard time finding information on purchasing a hand bike.

To give information about my situation:  I am still able to walk.  So, I need a bike that would work for someone with legs.  When I was able to cycle, I was biking 100 to 150 miles per week (occasionally more) and averaging about 18 mph.  My rides would range from 20 miles up to a century.  I see no reason why I wouldn't get into hand cycling enough to want to get up to that level again.  Does anyone have any advice, help, or resources to offer to help me find a proper bike?  Thanks.


texts: Is a Roadie with wider tyres still faster then a MTB with slicks?

texts:
I need a new bike, but I´m in a dilema on which too choose, because my rides involve 4 kinds of pavement: smooth cycle ways, cobblestone, ok city roads and rough city roads.

Was thinking just to keep doing what I have been doing till now, get a new MTB, a BTWIN rockrider 500(for those in the US, BTWIN is a brand sold in Europe that as nice groupset parts for the price) and fit it 26 slicks.

But then on the site saw they have some flat bar roadies: http://www.btwin.com/en/road-bikes/fitness-road-bikes/18701-triban-520-fb-road-bike-black-red-white.html

So I wonder...
If that roadie was fitted with 700x32 slick tyres would it make it rideable on cooblestone/cracked pavement without the risk of damaging the wheels?

And maybe the most important, would it loose much speed compared with the original tyres(700x25) on the smooth roads? Would it be just about as fast as the "slicked" mtb?

And please, no need to tell me to get a city bike. From what I have seen, they are even heavier then MTBs, and in my prices budget I can get a Btwin MTB with Sramx4 or Acera. While urban ones only have the tourney.


texts: How much maximum force can be applied by fingers on the brake lever?

texts: I am trying to calculate maximum force various braking systems can apply and for that I need the ergonomic data as to how much force fingers can apply.


texts: Is running 46t front chain ring with an 11t on the back such a huge disadvantage for flat cat 4 crits?

texts:
To flesh out the question with more (hopefully useful) information:

The average speed of this particular local flat criterium race is 47 kph (achievable with a cadence of 90rpm in 46-11) and a peak speed of 58.3 kph (achievable with a cadence of 115 rpm in 46-11).

In this instance it would be my first crit race, my expectations would be to not get dropped. I have raced cyclo cross before and consider myself to have a poor sprint. If I was to attempt to win a race like this I think I would have to be on my own.

whilst it seems achievable I assume I am missing something key here and there is a good reason why 53-39 on the front appears to be the most common gearing in racing.


texts: How to correctly mount double-lock grips?

texts:
I have a pair of PRO double lock-on grips (id est two lock rings per grip). In a recent crash, following an immensely helpful tip from a fellow rider, I clung to one end of the handlebars, turning the other end towards the ground. The handlebar absorbed much of the impact and only a month later I was able to ride my bike again without any pain.

My question is: have I mounted the grips correctly? As is visible, the white plastic part protrudes from the handlebar. And that is exactly where the metal lockring sits. Should the white part be pushed further inboard? It seems to have smaller inside diameter than the rest of the grip and was not sliding in easy - that's why I mounted it as I did.


texts: Will panaracer 27.5x3.5 tires on Velocity Blunt 35 rims fit on a Medium Surly Karate Monkey Frame?

texts:
Will panaracer Fat B Nimble 27.5x3.5 tires on Velocity Blunt 35 rims fit on a Medium Surly Karate Monkey Frame?

I doubt there will be any clearance issue on the front fork since it can hold a 29x3 surly knard with plenty of space.  However, I'm not sure about the rear triangle.


texts: Need advice on choosing the right folding bike

texts:
I'm looking for a bike for about half an hour of use a day in town. Don't have room in my flat so it will be a folding bike, and it has to cost less than £200.

I consider buying this one

Is it a good choice, or are there better options in the same price range ?


texts: How to make a lockable front suspension last longer?

texts:
Lockable suspension is very handy on every ride. But I have witnessed a few cases where they break way too soon, in comparison with other types of suspension. The locks fail to be effective, or the shock travel decreases.

I recently upgraded my suspension with a good quality lockable front suspension. And I want to know how to make it last longer?


texts:
Can I fit a 32-622 tire on a 32-630 rim?
The tire diameter is 8 mm smaller than the rim, so it's going to be tight - but will it fit with some extra force, and might there be any other problems?


texts: My rear bike wheel is wobbling back and forth when I ride. Nothing that I have done has worked and I was told that it was gonna cost $100 or more to fix. what do I do to fix it properly?


texts: Are Tacx turbo trainer frames the same across models?

texts: All of Tacx' wheel-on turbo trainers look like they have the same frames (looking at current rather than older models). Can anyone tell me whether it's possible to upgrade from say a Flow to a Vortex, Bushido, or Genius simply by swapping out the resistance unit.


texts:
I want to upgrade my mtb's front brake to a 200 or 203mm brake rotor.

current setup (180mm):

My front fork's posts are for a 160mm rotor (without any adapters/brackets, with the brake caliper bolted directly to the fork a 160mm rotor fits).
I am currently using a 160mm-180mm adapter with a 180mm rotor but would like to upgrade to 200 or 203 mm rotor.

Questions:

I looked online and couldn't find any (front) 160-200mm or 160-203mm adapter brackets (PM-PM).
Maybe I did not look in the right places, could anyone tell me where I could get such an adapter/what to look for when buying one?
Or should I use a combination of two adapter brackets? (160-180mm followed by a 180-200mm or 180-203mm bolted onto the first adapter bracket) (as can be seen in the images in this thread: https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/160-200mm-brake-adapter-919684.html )

My setup:
Fork: Rock Shocks Solo Air Spring 26"
Brake caliper (current): Magura MT4
Brake caliper (to be installed): Magura MT5

Thank you very much!


texts: How often do you need to bleed your Avid Elixir 1

texts:
I have a Trek bike with Avid Elixer 1 hydraulic brake. Not sure if it's a manufacture defect but I have returned to the shop 3 times since I bought the bike this April, for them to rebleed.

The brakes get tighten and the tech told me it's due to bubbles forming and would require a rebleed. They did not charge me as it's still within 1 year of purchase. I am wondering if this is normal.

My last rebleed of the rear brake is 3 weeks ago and I noticed that the brake is stiffening up again (seems like the brake is engaged lightly).

Addition based on a comment to an answer: by "tight" the Op means vthat the lever becomes stiffer, i.e. it becomes harder to work the brake.


texts: Cannondale CAAD Optimo Tiagra 2020 CREAKING

texts:
I am a newbie when it comes to bikes and I recently purchased a brand new Cannondale CAAD Optimo Tiagra 2020. After about 3 small rides (no more than 5 km a time), I noticed a very loud creak start to appear. I figured it was just settling noise and maybe needed lubricant in areas etc. But the noise continued to get much much worse as I started using it for my commute (approx 2 weeks at 15 km a day).
I took it in for its 6 week service (at Evans Cycles in London) and was told (to my horror) that I need to return the bike to Cannondale as there is a welding fault in the area north of the front part of the frame that is causing the creak. However, when riding it, I can clearly hear the creak is coming from the crank area and appears to only creak when pedaling, not even when cruising (which you would expect if it was coming from the front of the frame?)
I am really hesitant to return the bike as they said the lead time is 6 weeks and I am not guaranteed the same bike I have bought. Just the next best equivalent. Which in itself seems bonkers. I am using the bike to commute in and out of London so I really don't want to go 6 weeks without it. For cost and obvious health reasons.
I guess my main questions are, fundamentally, is the bike safe to ride? and do you think I should get a second opinion on the source of the noise, problem before admitting defeat and returning the bike to Cannondale for them to check? I have read a lot of forums and it looks like Cannondale have this issue a lot.

Mod note: This question is about a brand new bike frame that creaks, with a frame fault, and an LBS instructing to return it for repair.  This question is not about bottom brackets that creak.


texts: What is a good formula to translate a Google Maps cycle time estimate into a reasonable trip time for very long distances?

texts:
I want to get to San Francisco from Los Angeles. I've looked at a number of options, including cycling. I have never biked such a great distance before, so I consulted Google.

It says that the trip will take one day and nineteen hours. If I suppose I travel eight hours a day, that's like five or six days. Is that the least bit accurate in the real world?


texts:
I am reading the Shimano specs and I cannot figure out what is the "top sprocket". An example: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/sora-r3000/RD-R3000-SS.html

"Low sprocket" (I couldn' tell what it is, but the value is more meaningful) describes the rear sprocket, ok, "Total capacity" this I understand as well, but what is "Top sprocket" with min/max values 11/14T (accordingly)?


texts: Suspension fork swap for rigid: axle-to-crown confusion

texts:
I'm looking to replace the suspension fork on my bike with a rigid one. After much soul searching I've tentatively settled on the Surly 1x1. What's got me wrapped around the axle (pun intended!) is the axle-to-crown measurement.

The fork I have now is the SR Suntour SF13-XCT, which came stock on my Specialized mountain bike. This fork is listed as having 80mm of travel and a 459mm total length. When measuring the distance between this fork's axle & crown I've gotten very close to the 459mm listed on Suntour's site, which leads me to believe that the 459mm length listed by Suntour is correct.

The Surly 1x1 I'm looking at has two versions: one "corrected" for suspension travel of 80mm (axle-to-crown length of 413mm), the other "corrected" for suspension travel of 100mm (axle-to-crown length of 453mm).

Both of the Surly A-to-C measurements are below the 459mm that I supposedly have to put in if my geometry & handling are to stay the same.

In addition, the zip tie method allowed me to measure my sag as 18mm. (I normally keep my fork on its highest preload setting.)

Now, for the question itself: Which of the two Surly 1x1's should I get? Should I, or should I not, take my sag into account, considering that Surly's forks appear to have been "corrected" for suspension travel already?

Thanks in advance for any guidance.


texts: Swapping MTB tires for more grip and less puncture, going tubeless: is it worth?

texts:
I own a CUBE Acid MTB, which is mainly aimed at entry-level/XC riding, although (since this is the only bike I own righ now) I do ride it in somewhat more aggressive trails, almost enduro.

The bike has been running fine but I feel I could benefit from a new pair of tires, to increase grip/traction and to scare away most puncture and slipping thoughts, something that could withstand roots and non-plain terrain.

Also I'm still running tubes since my rims aren't tubeless-ready by default.

My bike has ETRTO 622x20 rims, with Schwalbe Smart Sam 2.25" front/back.

My understanding is that most rugged tires are 2.30" and up, while 2.25" tires are mostly a XC thing nowadays.

What tires could I mount on my bike?

Is tubeless achievable on my setup?

If yes, I won't convert right away, so a tire that could work on both setups would be great.


texts:
On this wikipedia article, all the mean steps in the gearing range chart appear to be wrong, but my guess is that I am misinterpreting something:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_gearing
180%/3 != 34.2%
250%/5 != 25.7%
300%/7 != 20.1%

etc
How are the authors arriving at these mean step figures?
Edit:
Looking at the source of the page, I see this:
{{#expr:(1.8^(1/2)-1)*100 round 1}}%

So it appears that the formula they are using is:
mean_gear_step = ((gear_range/10)^1/(number of gears - 1) - 1) * 100

No idea why this is though.


texts: Installation of round bike cadence sensor - in the end of crank screw?

texts:
I got a "LIVALL® P1 Smart Bicycle/Bike Nano Cadence Sensor", round and flat which appears to have a screw in for the end of the crank. However on all the bicycles I see there is the hexagonal screw nut and a black thing around it... just about the size of the threads.

Is this compatible with some way to remove that black spacer or do I need to try to awkwardly zip tie it to the crank somewhere to not rub on anything?

 from Maker's Website


texts: Why would a tire be for trainer use *only*?

texts:
Yesterday I installed a Continental Hometrainer Tire on the rear of my CX bike (which had been purchased mostly for trainer use and which came with knobby tires unsuited for that purpose). To my surprise, the sidewall of the tire is marked "for trainer use only, do not use on road."

Beyond potentially getting them dirty, is there any risk to using such tires on the road?


texts: Slight crackling sensation apparently due to the chain sticking to the cassette teeth

texts:
I've just assembled my bike, so it has hardly been ridden (less than 200km) and all the components are new.
Everything works perfectly, except an unpleasant very slight crackling sensation when I pedal gently on a smooth road.
I think I've identified that the problem comes from the chain, whose links come out of the cassette teeth in an abrupt way, these mini jumps are then felt in the crankset and the pedal.
On this video, you can see these little jumps. They're not very obvious, but you can clearly feel them when riding the bike or turning the pedal with the hand when giving some resistance to the wheel.
https://imgur.com/Th07PkL
I have checked my two other bikes, these little jumps on the cassette and this crackling sensation in the pedal are present, but reduced to a point that you cannot feel them with your feet while pedaling.
Since it's a 1x transmission, I thought maybe it's a chain line problem, but no : it happens even on well aligned cogs, the worst being the 5th (out of 11).
So, my question : is is a known problem that has a solution, e.g. tweaking a screw, cutting the chain's length ? Or is it just that my standards for chain smoothness are too high, maybe incompatible with 1x transmissions ?

Here are the specifications of the bike.
It's a gravel with SRAM 1x transmission. The components are standard as far as I know, you can find this setup on commercial bikes.
Cassette: SRAMPG 1130 11v
Derailleur: SRAM Rival 1 long type 3
Crankset: SRAMRival 1 GXP 11v
Chain: SRAMPC-1130 11V
Edit : I've checked the chain, it's as advertised a 11 speed, according to the "11s" mark ok the power lock.
For a moment I thought it was the dirt, but no, after a complete wash it's no better.


texts:
In attempting to bleed my Shimano 105 hydraulic disc brakes, I seem to have threaded the bleed port so the screw no longer tightens. Screw is fine in the other shifter, and same issue when using screw from other shifter.
I (foolishly) used a metal aftermarket bleed cup adapter and I think over-tightening has caused the issue!
Any ideas how to remedy, without needing to buy a new shifter?
In attached pic, screw is #4 and offending adapter is #12.


texts: How to fit single speed tensioner onto bike?

texts: I have recently replaced my old Gusset Bachelor SS tensioner for a new Gusset sprung tensioner with a jockey wheel (https://www.gussetcomponents.com/shop/chains-and-chain-devices/squire-ss-tensioner/). However I can't seem to tighten the bolt into the mount (the hole next to the drop out, where the tensioner attaches). I'll add some pictures to make it clearer. When I tighten the bolt with a hex key it just keeps spinning and will be loose, however if I take the spring mechanism out of the housing the bolts tightens just fine, so the spring is blocking part of the bolt to be tightened maybe. I'd appreciate any advice.


texts: Can I replace a 135mm/5mm QR hub with a 10mm-diameter IGH?

texts: I have a bike whose rear wheel has "quick-release 5 x 135mm". Will I be able to replace this rear hub with an in-gear hub that has "Length 135 mm, Axis diameter 10 mm" (this is the N380 hub)?


texts: Chain lube clean like wax but last like oil?

texts:
Is there a lube that is as clean as Wax but last like oil?

A bit of context, I ride a mountain bike in norcal, normally I use wax for all my bikes, I've been doing it for years.
I do hot laps (7 miles) like 4 times on work days and then weekend rides(2x15 miles~), every two rides or so, my chain will be dry, so I rewax it.
I clean the chain twice a week on Fridays and Mondays. I do so by taking my park tools chain cleaner, fill it up with rubbing alcohol and clean the chain, then carefully re-wax and wipe off the excess.

I love how easy is to clean wax, I also love how clean is, dirt doesn't stick to it BUT I HATE having to clean-rewax so often. I've gone through several oil based lubes with nasty results, lots of gunk everywhere, I know dry lube is supposed to be cleaner than wet but it still nasty for me, or I've tried the wrong ones.

From a practice perspective, what kinds of lube do you guys use? I just want to spend less time cleaning and more riding...


texts: My 1000 watt rated hub only pulls 6.7A (321.6 watts @ 48v) suggestions?

texts:
I am a big boy (~230lbs) living on a mountain. My 1000 watt electric hub powered by 78 18630 Lion batteries in 13 cells barely moves me level let alone up a hill (which was its intended purpose). I tested its current to find it only pulling ~6.7 amps on a wheel stand. Times 48v only gives me just under 322 watts. Did I get ripped off? Is there something I am missing?

Under the circumstances I'm considering removing the rim and spokes, attaching a cog and connecting it (centered in the frame) into the existing chain/de-railer system, directly.

Suggestions anyone?


texts: Claris front shifter with mtb derailleurs?

texts:
My son's bike (Decathlon road bike with 24" wheels) has the following configuration: Shimano Claris 3x8 STI shifters: the crank set is a Suntour 48-38-28 teeth with 152mm crank length; the cogs are a vintage Sachs Maillard, made in France, 12-28 teeth freewheel (screw on type); both derailleurs are Shimano Claris.

Now, while the rear derailleur works like a charm, the front derailleur doesn't change very well (it needs several pushes and goes directly to the third chainring, doesn't come back easily etc.) Someone explained me that this might happen because the crankset is a MTB type, and there's a wider distance between chainrings than in a road crankset. My questions:

Is this explanation correct?
If this is the explanation, can I replace the Claris derailleur with a MTB type derailleur (i.e. Deore?) Will the Claris shifter change properly the gears on a MTB derailleur?
What other hacks could I try to make the bike shift gears easily? I don't want to give up the claris shifter, nor the crankset, so, it's only the derailleur that remains, apparently, available for hacks / tweaking :)


texts: Performance consistently better in the evening?

texts: This has been on the back of my mind for ~5 years after I started riding consistently but never got around to asking it. I always get faster average speed/power (Strava estimate, I don't have a power meter) in the evening compared to morning or noon. I've verified this over many, many rides. Why is this?


texts: How can I tell if I can add a front brake to my cruiser?

texts: I recently had to give up running and decided to start commuting to/from work (about 15 miles round trip) so I could maintain my cardio fitness. One problem is I like to ride my cruiser (a Masi Soulville) and use that as my commuter. It's a coaster-brake-only setup, and I was wondering how I could tell if it would accept a front brake, and if so, what to look for in said front brake.


texts: Issue shifting from largest cog to second largest

texts:
Got a Canyon Spectral 3 weeks ago, have done around 2 hours riding on it and have noticed an issue with shifting from the largest cog to second largest. The drivetrain is SRAM NX 1x12.
There are two different scenarios:

When the bike is upside down
The chain will stay on the largest cog no matter how much I shift down, the derailleur does not move when these shifts are done (hence why it stays on the largest cog). If I give the derailleur a gentle push it will then move into gear as the slack is there for it. When it's in a different gear I can go all the way down to the smallest cog fine and back up to the largest. After reaching the largest it repeats the issue.

When riding
When in the largest cog and riding it will shift after around 5 seconds of pedaling on some occasions and almost immediately when cornering like the motion helps it out of the gear. When on the largest cog and clicking shift twice it will skip down into the third largest no problem.

Video of scenario 1. https://www.dropbox.com/s/qs2k2ma9rgvlth4/VID_20181212_184618.mp4?dl=0
I'm already contacting bike shops and canyon have suggested taking it to a bike shop but putting this up to see if anyone has any ideas or has had a similar experience.


texts: How to handle vibration (big bumps, etc.) on flat bar when touring?

texts:
I've got a fully-rigid mountain bike with flat bars that I'll be using on a 150 mile bikepacking trip on a "rails to trails" trail. So it'll get a bit bumpy.

My hands get a little sore from all the bumps.

What I've tried

I'd rather not lower my tire pressure (it's max'd out now, I'd rather not increase rolling resistance).
I've looked for some sort of "flexing" bar ends, with no luck. (Plenty of bar ends, just none with any flex or "give"
I'm considering getting such bar ends but maybe coating them with thick, soft foam. Hoping for a more elegant solution :)

Any suggestions?


texts: Difference between BR-IM and BR-C Shimano drum brakes?

texts:
To ride in a hilly area, I'd like to replace a weak BR-IM45 front brake with something stronger (eg. IM70, IM81, or IM85.)

I notice Shimano has two different lineups for their drum brakes: BR-IM and BR-C.

What's the difference?


texts: Unidentified clicking sound coming from front wheel area when performing an endo

texts:
I have recently bought a Canyon Strive CF and have had no problems or crashes on it. However, there is an unpredictable clicking sound coming from the front wheel area (not sure whether it's from the forks, brakes, hub or even perhaps the headset). The sound only occurs when I do an endo using the front brake and even then it is not a sound which happens every time, it is only on every fifth or tenth endo, it is quite a sharp and loud click that doesnt sound too healthy. I've thoroughly inspected the frame for cracks and think it is safe to say I can rule that out due to both the inconsistency of the noise and the fact that I haven't found even a hint of a crack. Does anyone know what this might be?

Cheers Edward

P.S. if it is part specific then it may be helpful to know what components I have:

Fork: Fox Float 34 Performance

Brakes: Hope Tech E4

Front disc: Hope tech

Front hub: Novatec

Front wheel: WTB i25 KOM

Headset: Nukeproof


texts: Rim tape doesn't quite meet, but covers all spoke holes - OK?

texts:
The ends of my rim tape are about 1mm apart, but the spoke holes are covered. Is this ok, or should I pull it off and start with a fresh roll?
Here's a picture.


texts: Is there a way to convert from a dropout frame / fork to a quick release / thru axle?

texts: just really want to know if I can, because I am working on a project bike and can't find good parts for a dropout frame.


texts: Chain slipping on smallest cogs (bigger chainring, new chain)

texts:
I recently switched my SRAM 1x12 Eagle SX drivetrain from a 30 to 34 direct mount Chainring. I also bought a new chain to accompany with it. Chain length was measured as the sram service manual advices. Put the chain around the largest rings and have 4 links overlapping.
The cassette has around 700km.The previous chain had around 0.5% procent wear.
When going into the highest gear and one cog beneath it by chain slips when applying pressure. The other gears work fine.
I degreased the new chain upon arrival since it was very sticky and applied dry lube after washing off the degreaser and drying using a towel.
I read online and some advice the cassette need to be replaced but after 700km to me that would be really strange. Could the chain slippen have something to do with the derailleur height? Which might be different since my chainring has chained or is this not correct?
I assume a larger chainring does not have impact on the left/right adjustments of the derailleur?
Another option I was thinking about was wiping as much dry lube of the chain applying wet lube.


texts: How do I know what brake rotors to get for my bike?

texts:
In the next month or so I plan on getting the 2019 Trek Crockett 5 as a cyclocross/road bike. I will also be getting some nicer road wheels for the bike so I can swap out the wheels whenever needed. Of course I plan on getting the same cassette for the rear wheel, but I was wondering about the brake rotors. On Trek's site it says the brakeset is "TRP Spyre mechanical disc" and in the close up of the brake rotors it says "160-35" on the rotor. I'm assuming this means they are 160mm rotors, but I don't know if I need to get the exact same discs that come with the bike or if I can just get any 160mm rotors.

Here's the link to the bike for more info: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/cyclocross-bikes/crockett/crockett-5-disc/p/23092/?colorCode=black

Thanks!


texts: Tacx Flow Smart trainer calibration issues with 700x35c tyre

texts:
I'm getting into cycling properly and I have bought myself the Tacx Flow smart trainer along with an adventure/gravel bike. I chose adventure/gravel over a road bike as I can see myself wanting to ride light to medium woodland trails around places like Ladybower Reservoir.

I have set the trainer up and I have mounted my bike onto it as per the instructions/downloaded the app etc.

After connecting to my phone and clicking on the 'calibrate' function, I cycle up to the designated 30kph and stop pedalling as instructed only to be greeted with an error message.

  There was an error during calibration. Please try again.

I have attempted this numerous times, each time making adjustments such as pumping the tyres up to their max rated pressure of 6.5 bar / 95 psi, and increasing the tension between trainer and tyre, however I still receive the error message that calibration has failed.

Does anybody know of anything that may be causing an issue?

Just for clarity, my tyres are 700x35c
I have also made sure the Tacx Utility app I am using is up to date.

Note: I have been receiving the error message on both my iPad 3 (a little old, I know), but also my OnePlus 3T Android phone.

Update:
I have since read a few more questions on the internet regarding people with similar issues, and I have attempted their solutions.

I released the back brake entirely to ensure that there was no extra friction slowing the wheel on deceleration
I followed Tacx's guide to set up to the letter, stating that I should find the point where, when levered down, the flywheel should only just touch the tyre, and then tighten up by 4 rotations

All of this still yielded an error...

PS. This is my tyre on it at the moment while I wait for my trainer

UPDATE 2

I actually had a momentary breakthrough!

After tinkering with the Tacx Windows 10 software, I set up my own test workout (10 mins flat, nothing special). After wimping out after 7 mins (I need to get fit, IKR!) I remembered that somebody had the advice of warming the tyres up before calibrating. This makes sense.

So I hopped back on the bike and tried the Utility app for Android and BOOM I got a readout right at the top end of green informing me that I need to slacken it off a little. Success, right?

I then tried again after slackening the tension by 1 turn and it appears to be back to the same old error fun I was having previously... Technology, who would have it?


texts:
How do the wheels attach on this trike design?

Here are the design drawings.  If you go to the section titled Steering Bridge Components you can see were it should attach.

However it does not show the actual way it is attached.

Here is picture from the drawings of the steering bridge:

and here is the finished product:

The wheels are 24 inches with reinforced axels.

Here is an interesting look at wicycle using this type of wheel.

They have an "attacher piece as seen in the kit.  One axel, one wheel, and the attacher pieces.


texts: Why are bike frames getting so much bigger

texts:
This is just a general interest kind of question, but I've really been wondering about this lately.  We've had a lot of advancements in bikes over the years, and people are always trying to make them lighter, yet for some reason it seems that the frames keep on getting bigger. Just comparing my old steel road bike to my new aluminum touring bike, here's a quick list of things that are bigger.

Wider diameter handle bars
1 1/8 inch steerer vs. a 1 inch steerer tube.
Wider seat and chain stays.
All main triangle tubes, but the biggest culprit is the down tube.
Fork is a little beefier.
Stem is almost twice as thick.

After you add all this up, I have an aluminum bike that isn't any lighter than the old steel bike I have.  Why has virtually ever part of the frame been made so much larger?


texts: What to consider when changing V-brake for a disc brake?

texts:
The frame of this bike has the capacity for V-brakes and disc brakes. There are some problems with the rear V-brake and I am considering installing a disc brake instead (just for elevated coolness). The bike is one year old. The only part, that was exchanged is the chain  - one month ago. The bike is a commuter/touring/cross-country style ridden. The hubs of the wheels do not have holes for bolts, that should hold a disc.

What are the main things to consider when upgrading to a rear disc brake? What parts should I buy? I am considering brake + whole assembled rear wheel == hub+spokes+rim.


texts: What tool do I need to disassemble this 5 speed freewheel

texts:
I have a 5 speed freewheel that I need to take of from hub, but the standard freewheel tool that I do have does not fit.

On the freewheel following text is engraved:

UC SHIMANO SIS
MF Z015 China

It seems to me that tool would need to have 12 splines.


texts: Comparing mini pumps - what to look for and what to consider?

texts:
I plan to buy a mini pump to take on road rides.   My bike has 700 x 25c tires.

There are many different models from each, some with thumb lock levers and some with a hose and screw-in lock.

What do I need to consider, and why, when selecting a minipump ?


texts: What type of cleat is this? Should I save it or get new cleats?

texts:
Can someone tell me what kind of cleat this is? circa 1993. I believe I got it  Someone told me that I can just get new shoes (the shoes are completely shot) and reuse the cleat.  Is that a good idea or should I get new cleats?  I think it's the shoes that are really expensive.  I am a very casual rider (go with kids) but I'm now used to the clip in style.

Here's a photo of the actual pedal.  Naturally, when I get new shoes (and cleats?) I want to make sure they fit pedal.


texts:
From the moment of buying the bike from a friend of mine, I have noticed that the rear derailleur was a little bit noisy. I thought that it would be problem solved by cleaning and greasing the jockey wheels.

Unfortunately, I have thoroughly cleaned the rear derailleur and sprayed some teflon lub on its surface. I have also removed and applied teflon grease on the jockey wheels, but the problem continues.

I have uploaded a video of the noise, and notice that it is an aligned chain situation (large chainring and 4th smallest cog). When I go to the 5th smallest cog, the sound gets worse.

This is a photo of the derailleur alignment in the same settings the video was taken:


texts: Tubeless valve leaking, what exactly is wrong & what do I need to do to fix it?

texts:
My front tyre has started to leak air at the top of the presta valve.

It's very noticeable when the valve is unscrewed or even not really tightly screwed in: you can feel a breeze coming out of the top.

When I screw the valve cap around past max tightness it slips & lets out a hissing noise.

Even with the valve tight enough that you can't feel or hear anything, the tyre runs dead flat after about 2hrs.

I'm pretty new to tubeless, and I've never had a valve act like this before.

The tyre is a Gavia AC 2. What do I need to do to fix it?

edit: looks like I might be loosing sealant, and need a truing - the rotor is rubbing the calipers at one point :(


texts: Sounds like there is stickiness on my tire, but there isn't!

texts:
I noticed starting yesterday my front tire has been making a strange sound. It sounds like there is a small piece of tar stuck to the front tire and it makes a faint noise of sticking and unsticking from the pavement once per revolution. I inspected the tire by hand, and it is perfectly clean. There is nothing visibly wrong with it whatsoever. It's also not melted. The bike rides perfectly. The tire and tube are both very new. The sound happens whether pedaling or coasting. Sometimes on different road surfaces it disappears, but I'm not sure.

Because the sound only happens when moving at speed with weight on the tire, I can't reproduce it standing still. Unless my ears are broken, it's not coming from anywhere else on the bike. What could this possibly be? Paranoid delusion?


texts:
Videos like this give the impression that mounting a tire with your hands only is stupidly easy. Now during my life I've mounted quite a few tires myself (probably ten times at least), always trying to make it without tire levers and always failing. Not only that, I always ended up needing quite some force even with tire levers to get that last bit over the edge (even broke a plastic lever once).

Now I'm wondering, is this normal, and all the videos that are trying to tell you how easy it is are just using especially loose combinations of tire and rim? Or might I be missing anything?


texts: I just picked this frame up for $100. Is this a crack? It looks and feels deeper than a surface scratch. I intended on this being my 1st build, should I continue? I hope I didn't waste my money


texts: What is considered the bead in this diagram?

texts:
I'm trying to understand wheels better and I googled Bead Seat Diameter and this image comes up a lot ...

There are two components that look to be the exact same with one flipped vertically.

Here is a picture of a 20 inch wheel for example:

What is considered the "bead"?  Is it that little circle.  A bead is normally just one small item on a necklace ( google ).

But in this case if it is that little circle, would the bead be something that creates a torroid and goes around the entire wheel?

From what I can tell the tire and the spokes are not depicted in the diagram, just the "metal" frame cross section.


texts: MTB Sizing. Saddle at the very bottom to reach pedals perfectly. Go one size smaller?

texts:
So im buying my first MTB. Its a Scott Scale 930. With the size M i get the perfect reach to the pedal with my heel. But only when the saddle is set to the very lowest/bottom. Should i get a size S instead? My height is 171 cm.

Thnx


texts: Are these shallow gouges and imperfections on a new carbon fork steerer benign or serious?

texts:
I have never had a carbon component on any of my bikes, so I have no idea what sorts of imperfections are perfectly normal minor blemishes that pose no risk.  I'm building the bike for a family member and don't want to install anything dangerous.
These photos are from a new fork we just received.  It cost almost $300, which isn't high-end by any means, but it is triple what the low-end forks are costing, and it was from an eBay Seller with over 15,000 feedbacks and a 99.9% positive rating, so I figured there would be a basic level of QA that would prevent a defective fork from being sold, and I hope I was right about that.
Are the shallow gouge and the other blemishes on the steerer just above the crown benign?
P.S. I should also add that at 9 o'clock on the steerer, when looking down at the tube from above if you were straddling the front wheel, there is a palpable ridge that runs from the crown up the conical taper. The other side of the tapered section is perfectly smooth. I've added a picture that shows that palpable ridge.


texts:
I want to get a wheel built using the components below:
https://www.ryde.nl/andra-40
https://bike.shimano.com/pt-PT/product/component/nexus-c3000-int7/SG-C3001-7D.html
The 36 spokes version,  3 cross pattern.
What is the length of the spokes I should use?
Thank you.


texts: How does the risk of a cyclist colliding with a vehicle vary with the speed difference?

texts:
In a recent answer I asserted

  Statistics show that the probability of a collision rises rapidly after the speed difference between two road users exceeds 20 kph (12 mph). So choose paths without vehicle traffic, or roads with lower speed traffic.

User ebrohman requested a source for this. Since I remembered this "fact" from years back (er ... not only was it last millenium, it was from before the internet) I had to scrabble about to try to find an online source.

I found weak support for my thesis

  ... this US pdf Synthesis of Safety Research Related to Speed and Speed Management; it doesn't explicitly support the 20 kph claim. This Dutch pdf The relation between speed and crashes says at a collision speed of 20 km/h nearly all pedestrians survive a crash with a passenger car; again not the same as my claim ...

Intuitively, my claim makes sense. The greater the speed difference between a vehicle and me, the more likely a random driver is to make an error and collide with me.

But can we factually quantify how the risk varies with the speed difference?


texts: Bleed port repair on Shimano road brake lever?

texts:
I noticed that a small amount of mineral oil had leaked from the bleed port on my Shimano road brake lever. I inspected the bleed port screw and saw that it was loose. The threads on the lever appeared to be damaged. The threads on the bolt ("Y0C698030") appear to be fine.
I was able to screw the bolt back in, pumped the lever a few times and it seemed to stay put. No further mineral oil leaked and the braking does not feel spongy.
However, now I'm not sure what to do:

Is the brake safe to use?
Can I repair the thread, perhaps with a helicoil or threaded insert? If so, what are the dimensions?
Do I need to replace the entire shifter?
Should I make a warranty claim with Shimano?

Here is the brake/shifter diagram for clarity:


texts: Is it possible to fit a 26" fork to a 29er bike frame

texts: I want to buy a cheap frame and put parts from my old 26" (wheel and fork) and 15" (frame). Is this possible.


texts:
I have a Giant ATX 2 27.5 2017 and I broke my rear axle .

I sent it to my LBS, a week later they told me their axle fitted the front wheel but the back wheel was a different size.

They haven’t got the axle for it but at the mean time how do I get the axle size and what’s it most likely to be?

It has joytech hubs 32 spokes and has 27.5” wheels.


texts: Bicycle maintenance notes, technical book: do you have one?

texts:
Well, I drive a car and I have a technical book (maintenance) and automatically I want to do the same for my newly bought bicycle. I would love to track repairs, maintenance schedules, changed / added parts, at the same time stats (weight, part durability per km), mileage and stuff like that...

Unfortunately, when I bought my bike I did not receive any of such kind. So, my questions would be:

Do you have 'technical maintenance book'?
Maybe you have a digital template?
Maybe I could buy one somewhere?
Or maybe there is a better way you could suggest :)

I believe that good bike owners should properly take care of their bikes thus providing better value on resale and future maintenance.


texts: Single speed to multi-speed conversion with internal gear hub

texts:
I currently have a single speed 52m Crew District.

I got it as a commuter once I got moved closer my workplace.  I live in a fairly hilly area and I am thoroughly missing the option to downshift and give my legs a break on the way back.

Current gearing is 46 x 16 (freewheel) 700cx25 gators, rear brake only, Omnium 165mm cranks. The District is listed as a track bike and geometry.

I heard it is possible to add gears without a dérailleur by using an internal gear hub.

My LBS seem unreliable and I've gotten different answers. Are they right to try to sell me on a stock multi-speed hybrid or just confused about not using a dérailleur?

Which brings me to the internal hub gear wheels. Are they a gimmick, work "meh", or extremely functional? Any experience with them? I'm confused about the axle measurements, where they are or how to find out.  Does anyone have know if the Soma-Iggy will fit the District's rear spacing and if so what would be better: 3 speed or 5?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.


texts: I know this is an older less expensive brake system so not sure of my best options. The brake lever are quite firm so is there a way I can remove a bit of the hydraulic fluid from the system? I also find them very difficult to maintain alignment with my rotors...would removing a bit of hydraulic fluid put less pressure on the pistons and open the brake pads even the tiniest bit? Any help is greatly appreciated.


texts: Restoring the original color of metal and chainrings

texts:
I bought a used bike and I want to pimp it up and make it cleaner. I found rust on the chainrings and I would like 1- to remove it and 2- get the original color of the metal back. How to do that? Here are the pics of my bike: Painting a bike with minimum cost

p.s. I need to do that in the cheapest way possible because I'm a poor student.


texts: turbo trainer on wtb 27.5 sx19 wheel is it possible

texts:
I have a norco 7.1 charger 2015 bike. I'm looking to put some miles on a turbo trainer

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/turbo-trainers/trainers/tacx-blue-matic-folding-magnetic-trainer

I'm a noob who need to know if it's possible for me:

a)get a tyre that will fit my rim

or

b)get a cheap and nasty rim to fit 27.5 1.25inch tyre


texts: I was watching the Olympics today and happened to catch track cycling (sprint). I understand that they have fixed gear bikes which is a reason they start slow, however, I did not understand why they did a lap or a little more at a very slow pace, then proceeded to pick up the pace for the second lap, and finally sprinted on the last lap instead of just going full out from the get go? What is the strategy behind this?


texts: Why are there no team breakaways in road racing?

texts:
I've watched the Tour de France for the last few years, and I'm beginning to think I understand the basics of the tactics and strategy. But one question has just struck me:

Why don't team breakaways happen?

The teams have radios so such a move could be planned and coordinated without the knowledge of the rest of the peleton.

I can see that it would be hard to prevent one or two freeloading non-team members tagging along, and that if such riders are sprinters they could well win the stage. But if your team is more interested in the general classification that wouldn't be a big issue surely?

(Postscript: As such things don't happen I'm assuming there is a good reason why they don't happen. I'm not claiming to know better than the team managers! I'm just after a good explanation of why.)


texts: Should I switch to a smaller chain ring?

texts:
I am back to cycling after 7 years absence due to injury and time commitments. When I started 3 months ago I weighed 20kg more (105 kg in total) than when I stopped. My target is to build fitness (100+ miles per week) and lose the weight gradually (1kg per month) both of which I currently reach.

My bike has a standard Shimano 105/5800 groupset with 53/39 chain rings and 11-32 cassette.

In the flats with a little wind from the back I tend to be in the largest gears whilst running at a decent cadence, but as soon as I start climbing more than 3% (and I live in a hilly area) I tend to be on the smallest of gears.

So my real question. Would it make sense for me to switch to the smaller 50/34 chain rings? Or is it more sensible to tough it out for now and expect that both the weight reduction and fitness improvement will get me into a more comfortable position relatively quickly.


texts: Easiest way to remove a chain master link / masterlink

texts:
When I'm breaking a chain with a master link (to remove the chain from the bike), usually I can do it with my hands by pushing the links together until the master link comes apart. But sometimes it's trickier than others, and can be a recipe for sore thumbs.

I know there are special tools that help with this, but I'm curious if there's a trick I'm missing.

What is an easy, reliable way to un-do the master link (even when stuck), without any specialty master-link-specific tools?


texts: What would be the best gearing for mountain climbing?

texts: I'm 59, 5'11", 210,and have had a triple bypass. I moved from the flats to the hills, and I want to ride again, but I can't with the gearing I have now. 50/34 chain ring and an 11 speed 10-25 cassette. These hills are really steep, I'm talking "Climb to Kaiser" steep, and I do not like having to get off my bike and finish walking to the top of the hill. Keeping it a double, what groupset would give me the best range and lowest gears for climbing?