texts: Damage to bearings from press fit bb removal?

texts: Is it possible to remove the bearings from one bike's bb and put them on to another or would using a tool such as the Park tool bbt 90.3 damage them somehow?


texts: Why do only downhill mountain bikers wear full face helmets?

texts:
A lot of cyclists are concerned about safety and having the proper equipment, but I have never seen a cyclist riding in the city with a full-face helmet, nor have I seen a full-face helmet marketed for city/road riding. Is there a reason for this?

I have a friend who broke several teeth after a tire got caught in some trolly tracks resulting in many thousands of $'s of dental bills, and know of another young woman who died in a similar incident after hitting her head on the curb. Both were wearing standard bike helmets.

If the full-face helmet offers more protection to more of your head, why wouldn't some people want that, even if they're not doing some ridiculous jump on a downhill or BMX bike?

vs.


texts:
I just bought two bikes in Australia and I'm wondering the best way to pack them and ship them to my country. They're sitting at a relatives house right now.

I'll probably send by ship due to cost so volume is important. Unfortunately my relative is not great with tools and doesn't know anything about bikes and has never even ridden one, so I'm trying to work out something simple and easy.

My idea at the moment is to remove the front wheels and lower and turn the handle bars. Lower the seat as far as it will go, remove the outside facing pedal, and put the bikes side by side facing different ways.

Is there a better way? How should I go about protecting the wheels/spokes during the packing?

Cost, volume, and ease are my main concerns, these are cheap mountain bikes and my guy isn't mechanically inclined to the extent he'd probably have to borrow a spanner rather than own one. Already shipping will probably cost more than the bikes did.


texts: Frame and Fork compatibility - 1 1/4" to 1 1/2"

texts:
I've bought a new frame being this one: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cube-axial-wls-pro-frame-black-n-green-643919

  Headtube diameter: Tapered 1 1/8" - 1 1/4" semi-integrated ZS44 - full-intgrated IS47  (Cube Headset FSA Orbit Z-t Eco #10359)

I already have a fork from another bike which is 1 1/8" to 1 1/2"

I wonder how can I mount this fork on the frame, since the fork is larger than the bottom part of the frame, I think that something like this could do, but I'm unsure:

Hope brand - Lower Cup Semi Integrated 1 1/2" black

If that's not going to fit, which options do I have?

Thanks, any help is appreciated!


texts: Should I be continually weighting the handlebars?

texts:
When riding a non-technical flat or ascent, should the arms support some of the rider's weight?
I have noticed that even in those situations, I can freely let go of the bars and continue pedaling without shifting my weight - all the time being bent forward. Maybe this is because of my bike's geometry, my technique is wrong or this is just normal.
To answer the questions in the comments, I am not sitting up, nor am I strong. I feel as if 80% of my weight is on the saddle, 18% on the pedals (striving to make consistent circles) and 2% on the handlebars (there is some change in my posture when I let go the bars, but it's like 1cm at most). Flat pedals - haven't ridden clips for a while.

It appears that the stem has been replaced with 50mm shorter one, and the fork with 30mm longer one. With my saddle all the way up, the handlebars are still a little higher.
The question stands, however - is this (a) efficient and (b) healthy position for cycling level roads and climbs?


texts: Mixing various spoke widths in a single wheel

texts:
So the story began some 4 years ago, when I bent my rear derailleur hanger while crashing, and my  chain got stuck between the cassette and the wheel scratching a few spokes. Everything was fine until this year when some of these spokes started to snap and I had to replace them.

I have 32 DT Revolution spokes that are 1.8-1.5-1.8mm in diameter and replaced 4 of them from the drive side to plain 2.0mm spokes. I trued the wheel with no problems and after some 500km everything looks fine.

The question is: for how long? Will the thicker spokes exert more side force and lead to over-tensing the other side? Or is there a risk in quicker fatigue of spokes on either side?


texts: How do I get a new chainring when my bike is so old, the manufacturer doesn't have the chainring (or crank) I need

texts:
I need a new chainring but when I called the manufacturer they said my model is so old they don't have the part any more.

I've attached an image of the crank from the manual and a photo from my bike. Can someone tell me if it is possible to get this type of chainring, or an entire new crank?

How do I measure it to make sure it fits my bike?


texts:
Can someone explain to me the pros/cons of drop or straight? I've never used drops before and have never owned a good road bike (just cheap mountain bikes) - I am buying a decent single speed soon and unsure if I am better to go with straight or drop bars.

I am not an experienced cyclist and the bike will be used for fun/commute mainly (no on-road riding where I am weaving between cars or anything, cycleways)


texts:
I'm running a Supernova E3 PRO 2 of my dynohub. However I would like to use my non-dynohub front-wheel whilst still being able to use the same lights on battery power.

The lights have an internal AC/DC converter, so I can't just go around that. Would is be possible to just hook up a couple of AA batteries or an USB-powerbank?

UPDATE

Turns out you do need a DC inverter. It works for a few minutes, after which the light turns off. After connecting it to the dynohub it was working again.


texts:
Today in the middle of my ride it started raining and I could barely see due to the amount of rain on my glasses.

This is basically what I could see

I have jokingly talked about using Rain-X on my glasses, but now it's starting to seem like a good idea.

Is there a way to keep this from happening or at least to a minimum?


texts: I have a fat bike (Giant Momentum Iride Rocker 3). It says this bike didn't design for offroading but I have one bike and I use it on single-tracks (not very technical) and doing long trips (about 75kms per day). I usually have heavy luggage. But nowadays, the rear wheel is wobbling side to side (when you look the bike from the behind it wobbles right and left, I mean the top of the wheel wobbles to the chain and to the kickstand. I hope you understand.) And it does this freely, sometimes to right; sometimes to left. So I don't think the wheel is out of trueing. Can you suggest me what to do? Because I don't trust the local bike shop he is trying to sell new parts and usually lies about broken parts. If you need more information I can share with you. And I'm sorry for my bad English. The bicycle has a freewheel by the way, not a cassette.


texts: Ksyrium Equipe wheels any good for Cyclocross?

texts:
Just got a pair of Ksyrium Equipe with a second hand Sworks Tarmac. Thinking of putting them on my Ridley for some Cyclocross action. Has any one used these wheels for this purpose before? I have use Mavic wheels in the past and find they have a tendency to buckle or break spokes quite easily. Will I just be destroying a set of decent wheels?

Thanks


texts: Does only Rohloff manufacture the sprocket for their Speedhub 14?

texts:
Are there any manufacturers other than Rohloff who make the sprocket for the Rohloff Speedhub 14?

Is the sprocket Rohloff specific or is it a standard / general / everyday part?


texts: A gap in the hole when inserting JIS square BB to a Truvativ Crank

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I push the BB inside a crank hole without any tool but I expect a few milimeters gap.

The Truvativ crank definitely uses JIS interface, but the question is: DOES the gap make any problem? or is it normal?

some images:


texts: Replacing front chainring on my old bike

texts:
I have an old Giant Peloton Lite. Certainly considering its age, it's a very nice bike. The front chain ring is a bit worn out, however, and I'm looking to replace it.
I have a few questions about that:

It seems like a relatively easy job. Screw the old one loose, put the new one on. I've seen a video about it, which seemed to confirm that. I like doing small maintenance, so I like to do things myself if possible (instead of taking it to the local bike shop). Is this true, or is it really something I should have my LBS do?
As for parts: my current ring is a 53-teeth, I found a 50-teeth in the same make. Can I use that, or will that give me unforeseen issues?
In general, what are things to look out for in chainrings? I'm very new in learning about these things, so I'm curious what are the relevant factors determining my bike's compatability with a given chainring. The chain, for sure. But can one match a chain ring with a very different cassette or freewheel, provided they run on the same type of chain?
It is generally recommended to change the cassette (or freewheel) if  you are changing the front ring. Is that really necessary? The freewheel is still really good.

I know these might sound like naive questions, but, I'm learning and having fun doing that. Thanks for your help.
(To further specify: it's a 2x6 Exage 500 drivetrain)


texts: Shimano LP25 Sealed Cartridge Bottom Bracket

texts: I recently attempted to rebuild a sealed cartridge Shimano LP25 bottom bracket. These are meant to be replaced when worn out, but I thought: if someone on YouTube can do it, I can too. The problem is that the top bearings no longer fit, as the first picture illustrates. I am completely certain that these are the exact bearings I removed from the top fixed flange race when I disassembled the bracket. My question is: what exactly is going wrong?


texts:
I am not aware of any two-wheeled trailer with (intentional) camber. Are there any? If not, why don't two-wheeled trailers use a little bit of negative camber?

I think it would reduce the stress on the wheels in turns and also slightly improve stability (due to wider base). A small enough amount would not affect total width nor usable area as the wheels are widest at the hub.

Race cars used to use camber, sport wheelchairs use it (I think regular ones don't only because it would make them wider), so why not trailers?

I am willing to believe it causes an increase in rolling resistance, but I don't think it is significant enough.

I've been thinking about this for a few weeks now and I still can't see a reason why it would not work.


texts: Help in Identifying bicycle from Mozart in the Jungle Show?

texts:
Can anyone identify this bicycle manufacturer? Bike appears in season 1 of Mozart in the Jungle - the Amazon show

Edit - more shots of the bike (SE doesn't like mp4)

https://i.imgur.com/lIKedCz.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/6iCxtkk.mp4


texts:
Can a hybrid bike's stem be slammed to make it nearly as fast and powerful as a road or cyclocross bike?

More aggressive positions are thought to improve power transfer. That means a better workout when doing HIIT.

With a lower position, we tend to be more aerodynamic. People often find that road bikes are a few km/h faster than hybrid bikes. A cyclocross bike isn't much slower than a road bike. It must be mostly aerodynamics that played a role.

Someone might want to do this because it's cheaper and prefers handlebar mounted shifters. A pair of STI shifters can cost a few hundreds of dollars while equivalent speed shifters may cost only one third that for non-drop style handlebars.

According to the following article, it looks like we need to select a stem with an angle and length that makes the handlebar height 5 to 10 cm below that of the saddle.
https://www.mec.ca/en/explore/fitting-your-bike

If I use the right stem so that the reach and handlebar heights are similar to those of road bikes, would it work? The stem may need to be longer than you can find in stores because there are no hoods to extend the reach.

Photo of my bike. The bike fitter used a long stem for a performance fit.


texts:
I'd like to have those upward bar-ends, but with brake levers attached.

It's pretty hard to explain without a picture, but I hope someone understands what I'm looking for.

Does anything like this exist?


texts: How long for legs to get used to fixed gear 15 mile daily ride

texts:
Due to a car accident and the extended time insurance has taken to get my car handled, I pulled my fixie out of the garage and started riding it to my university mon-fri; it's about a 15 mile round trip, no hills. I have been doin this ride for 3 weeks now and my legs are still significantly sore from the ride every day. When I am riding, there are no issues with my legs or stamina or anything, but lets say I am standing and I keep my leg straight and try to lift it; at about 45 degrees the top part of my leg where it meets the hip/pelvis there is pain and I cant really lift it any higher. Is there a certain point where after having done this ride 5 days a week for a given number of weeks that I will not have this issue anymore? If anyone knows any stretches for cycling too that they would like to suggest, that would be appreciated too.

For profiling on this issue I am 5'5", 120lbs, and have been significantly inactive for the past year as a university student (literally spend the large majority of my time sitting in a chair).


texts: Lifting a road bike by one of the seat stays ok?

texts: Is it ok to lift a road bike by one of the aluminium seat stays? Yesterday I realised I was doing this when inspecting the rear derailleur during a ride (front of the bike facing down, all the weight on one seat stay) and afterwards it got me a bit worried that I might have bent/damaged something. Bike is Cannondale CAAD12, total weight around 9kg. Just have no idea how strong these seat stays are and what they are capable of. Thank you for your answers :).


texts: Tubus Rack Compatibility on a 29er With Discs

texts:
I have a Trek 520 with a Tubus Tara rack on the front and a Tubus Cargo (not the newer Evo model) rack on the rear. I'm thinking about trading in the 520 for a 29er with disc brakes, probably a Salsa Fargo.

So I guess my question is two parts:

Would disc brakes interfere with mounting the racks? And...
I know I could run 700c tires on the rim if need be, but would I have the clearance for fat tires as well?

Has anybody tried this?


texts: Which components affects downhill speed?

texts:
So my riding buddy can never keep up with me downhill.

I'm slightly heavier than him (5-10lbs).
I have an older non aero bike. He has a newer aero bike. His is probably a few lbs lighter than mine.
I have a better aero position than he does.

But I don't just go a little faster than him, I smoke him!

My suspicion is wheels.

Can lower end wheels be the cause? Anything else?


texts:
I washed my bike with Rhino Goo fast action cleaner and fairy liquid in a spray bottle mixed with water. I used a hose pump with no pressure, so no liquid will go into my bearings etc. After I washed it, I dried it up and after a couple of hours applied lube on a chain with a slow method (1 drop of lube on every chain element). I applied it on lower part of it so it will not drip on anything except the floor.
Couple the days after I went out to bed the brakes in. They were horrible at the beginning: squealing, no force at all, stopping after a mile etc. I went up and down the hill for like 20 times, feeling that breaks were at their 70-75% of original state (front wheel was on its way to lock up and the back one skidded a few times). I had no time to continue with a thought that I do the same tomorrow.
Next day I went to the same hill, same bike, nothing happened to the bike at all, but all the stopping power was gone. It felt like I needed to do the bedding process all over again, but after 2-3 rides down the hill, I felt the force coming back and eventually, the same 70-75% of the original stopping power occurred.
Is it the liquid I'm using to clean the bike, because its not the first time this thing happened (I cleaned after not using for 3-4 months due to injury and bike becoming a bit dusty) or the way I clean the bike, or because I didn't finish the process of bedding in? I'm just about to give up and I'm ready to use the bike as it is and make the bedding in process on the way.


texts: I can't decide between these two models. I need them mostly for technical trail riding, like getting on boulders on the way up (I'm fine with cleats going down, but on the way up on each mistake I have to find my way to unclip to put a feet, and 50% of the time I don't quite succeed in that and lay sideways). Does the new VXi bald sole design sacrifices some of the grip in exchange for the ability to reposition the foot? What would be your choice?


texts:
I'm trying to cannibalize an old bike but am having trouble removing the kickstand:

I've tried screwing the bolt counter-clockwise†, which indeed made it looser, but it's not getting loose enough to remove the kickstand; What might I be doing wrong here?-- is there possibly something worn/rusted out which is causing the bolt to not loosen any further?

† At least I think I turned it counter-clockwise, but I may be remembering wrong. Could it actually loosen by turning it clockwise instead?


texts:
There are a lot of answers for this topic already but I haven’t been able to fix it yet.

When my disc brake caliper bolts are loose the rotor does not rub but when I tighten them the rotor rubs. I’ve tried doing it by eye and using the brake lever to center it, but no luck, the pads keep rubbing. I cannot push the pistons back any further, is that the problem?

I’ve tried most solutions already unless I’ve been doing it wrong. Thanks.


texts: Mixing Ultegra or 105 left crankarm with Shimano Sora support

texts: I'm interested in buying this power meter: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/XCADEY-Bicycle-power-meter-Crank-power-meter-Bicycle-GPS-Computer-Garmin-Edge-Bryton-IGPSPORT-Support-ANT/32798182129.html. I have a Sora set in my road bike and I 'm wondering if a left crankarm dedicated for Ultegra or 105 would work with Sora crankset support of do I have to replace the whole set?


texts: Shimano Ultegra CS-6800 11/32 replacement?

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I currently have Ultegra CS-6800, 11/32 w/Di2 on my bike.  I've been wanting to get a second set of wheels and see that CS-6800 series is now replaced with the CS-R8000 series.  If I move to the R8000 platform using the same 11/32 gearing, am I going to have issue with detuning of the shifting system or should it be a 1 to 1 swap?
Thanks
Greg


texts:
I would like to see if there is clothing that can provide sun protection while
minimizing sweating and/or allow air flow.

Would also like to do the same with my bike helmet without compromising safety.

Ideas?


texts:
My bike has a coaster brake (pedal brake).

I am not sure how it started, but it has just started to brake itself even if I don't do back pedal.

It works weirdly that, it is kind of latching the brake when I use the back pedal. Sometimes it gets fine especially when I do a strong pedal brake. But, it usually brakes itself and the strength of the brake varies, and time-to-time it gets fine itself for a while. It does not have a consistent state.

Does anyone have an idea what might be wrong with it and if it is something that I can fix it?

EDIT: Picture of the brake arm:


texts: How long does an unused helmet keep for?

texts:
Will a helmet suffer in any way if it is kept in its original box indoors for some years before ever being used?  For instance, I might keep it unused for 5 years and then use it for 5 years.

I ask because I own a helmet that I find very comfortable, but the model has been discontinued.  I have noticed some end-of-line stock and I might buy more than one, so long as it is perfectly OK to keep a helmet unused for a long time.


texts: Chain guards for front derailleurs: Metal alternative to SKS chainboard?

texts: Can anyone recommend an aftermarket, front-derailleur-compatible chainguard (along the lines of the SKS chainboard) that's not made of plastic? Maybe something like the one on the Marin Bridgeway triple?


texts: I just bought some Clarks CPS301 Brake Blocks (V-Brake brake blocks). The threaded posts are positioned slightly off-centre, towards the front. This is different from my old, unbranded ones where the posts are dead centre. Why is this? What are the advantanges or disadvantages of the off-centre posts? My bicycle is a Ridgeback Meteor commuter bike. The only possible explanation I could find is in the comments of this post.


texts: which type of bicycle should I consider for bicycle routes

texts: I have no experience in biking and have never made any tour/route. I just like riding it. I love extreme and travelling in general and I am planning to start from small bicycle routes. I understand that it is a very general question, but what kind of bicycle would you recommend me to buy for it ? The tracks I am observing and choosing for future are mostly with surface: Paved, Unpaved, Gravel. So, I am more like a nature person, so I suppose I would choose mostly off road tracks. I was thinking generally about Touring Bikes. Maybe you would also give me some specifications I should pay attention. Any suggestions?


texts: I broke the lever of my shifter (SRAM X7) when I fell off my bike on a trail. I think it just fell off the unit. I can see where the lever is connected to the mechanism that pulls the cable. Can I replace just the lever, and not have to buy the entire shifter?


texts:
I am trying to understand if the problem I've got falls into a common problem for freewheel hubs. After googling and reading, I am still not sure if there is only this factor to what has happened.

I've done less than 200km on the "hybrid" bike I've got less than two months ago. I can't say I've abused it. I don't feel like it :) Mostly on asphalt occasionally a unpaved road but nothing dramatic like jumping curbs or riding over tree roots. A few days back we went to have a 30ish km ride and I've started to hear this clicking/clunking noise with vibration and sometimes with that feeling of the rear wheel moving sideways. From the 80-90s, when I was a kid and bikes were built differently, this usually meant you have a mess in the hub's bearings. Rightly so, when I came back home and removed the wheel, I've discovered the axle is bent

This is a Shimano MF-TZ21-CP 7 gears set that appears to be a very cheap one. I wish I knew earlier I have to check this too. I think the hub is equally cheap.

Now, I have no idea if this is a "very bent" or "slightly bent" much less I know of what is the cause of what, bent axle munches on bearings or munched bearings bend the axles?

I am reading a lot of people saying the core problem is the "leverage" a freewheel hub creates on the axle and that a heavier weighted rider should expect it to bend or break sooner. I weight 100kgs (220lbs), is it that much for less than 200km "leisure" rides? I mean, am I supposed to buy a box of axle kits to change every 100km?

Update after visiting the shop at May 8th:

So I went to the seller's shop, and left the bike there. As expected, they "didn't have time" to check the damage and quote the work while I was there. Though they told me right away that I "got into a pothole" which I am sure I didn't. At least not a pothole I would consider any danger for any type of bicycle.

So I've told them I didn't and left. Next day the shop owner calls me and says to come and pick up the bike. I ask her if and how much I'll have to pay to which she answers "come here, we'll explain". My favorite. They claim it is impossible to get into a defective axle, and it is impossible it was bent without being "hit". I keep insisting I've treated it properly and didn't ever jump a curb or got into a pothole. They give up with that look of offended honesty to which I say that I am not going to rob them over it and I am not going broke by paying an hour of work and a 150mm steel rod. She says that she is going to be fine too without me paying. I try to explain that it is not a question of paying, but of the service they offer, and that I need to understand if I have to sell the bike right now to avoid repairing it all the time, or it is just a matter of bad luck.  And she doesn't take it well either, saying that she only sells good bikes and not department store junk and nobody ever came back with this bike and blah. So I take the bike and go home. Seems like going back there with any other problem is not the best option now.

TL;DR: Got the axle replaced "on warranty" with some good Shimano 9mm (as they said). Seller wasn't happy about it and I am not convinced it is not going to happen again.


texts: Matching color bar tape to replace dirty white tape?

texts: My father has one a Trek 4.3 Domane from 2014 with white bicycle tape that is very dirty now and could use to be replaced(christmas gift for him). What color tape/product should I get that will still match the bike and not fade to as bad a color as the white does? I'm open to other colors, if they still match.


texts:
My previous question was: How to take apart this rear BMX hub?

How do I determine the size of my freewheel to replace it?
I have seen on bicycle sites that a freewheel comes in sizes like 14t, 16t, 17t, 18t.

Here is a picture of my freewheel. It does not have any markings or inscriptions. The freewheel diameter of the ring, not the cog teeth is 55mm.


texts: Is Shimano 36/24 double crankset possible?

texts:
I'd want to exchange my triple crankset with double. After playing with gear calculator and testing some double setups, I came to the conclusion I need 36/24 gearing. I have 10 speed drive, so I'm looking for SLX/Deore crankset. The nearest combinations are 36/22, 38/24 by SLX (FC-M677). Can I buy 36/22 crank and change the lower chainring to 24T? According to Shimano technical doc, these parts are not interchangeable, but is this a real concern?

I'm going to use it with 11-36 casette if that matters.


texts: Chain fell between cassette and spokes, what to replace?

texts: My chain fell between the cassette and the spokes while riding, and it destroyed my rear wheel. I know I'll have to replace the wheel, but can I keep the cassette and the chain? There is no visible damage on either.


texts: possible upgrades for merida speeder 200

texts:
I have a Speeder 200. (2015). I want to upgrade it's rear derailleur, my problem is I am unsatisfied with its performance. (it is a Tiagra with 9 speed at the moment). If i replace it with a 105 (9 speed) should I replace the other components(cassette, chain, front derailleur etc.) as well? Or can i replace with a ultegra?(does a 9 speed exists) Should I buy a groupset?  haven't tried an upgrade before.

edit: I have been using it for around 400 kilometers, components are still fine, but I was never happy with that Tiagra. I have some problems with shifting, if speed is >20km/h it does not shift properly. I have taken my bike to Merida service twice, I don't think there is a cabling or another problem. It seems OK, but on road i dont like its poor shifting. For example I change it 6th to 7th, after a few cycles I hear a mechanical sound and it decides to change, not on time.

I had another bike with Deore rear derailleur before, never had an issue like this.


texts: The limited selection of electric bikes available at Halfords ranges from £699.99-£1,199.99. What makes them so expensive — the dynamo, battery, or something else?


texts:
I just bought this nifty looking bike, but alas I don't know the manufacturer or model it is. There's a logo with a silver looking "Z" and a made in Taiwan sticker. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. There was also a sticker that said the bike was "Manufactured Exclusively for S.B.S. Inc., Seattle". Seattle Bike Supply closed about 5 years ago.


texts: Is it normal to have some soreness in your knees after cycling with SPD?

texts:
I recently got some SPD pedals. Initially, my seat was too high (old pedals added about 3/4th of an inch to height), and at the end of the downstroke, pulled uncomfortably on my knees. After even moderate rides (~5k), it would be painful walking up stairs, for example.

Anyway, figured that part out, lowered my seat, no problems for several weeks. Weather gets better, start ramping up the distance I travel, and now I find that I get a (much) less painful version of the same thing after longer rides (>40k) with a headwind.

Is it normal to get some soreness in your knees, or is this a sign that the seat is still not at the right height? Is there an algorithmic way to adjust seat height?


texts: What's this? Photo of bicycle with pedals by the rear wheel

texts:
I just stumbled upon this photo of what appears to be a reasonably normal citybike, except it looks like it has a second set of pedals at the rear wheel.

source

Anybody knows what it is?


texts: Hi I have just purchased a second hand Pashley, the serial number appears to be 43742, however, it is difficult to see.  Can anyone tell me if this is a Roadster or a Princess please and would anyone have an idea of the date of the bike. Many thanks.


texts: What causes a slight rhythmic knock in the pedal?

texts:
My left pedal is sending a slight knock to the sole of my foot at every turn, at the 1 o'clock position. What could cause this? It happens on all chainring-sprocket combinations though not with the same intensity.
Edit: this is a flat pedal, JIS square taper bottom bracket.
Edit: By "1 o'clock" I mean there's a click in the left pedal when the right pedal is exiting its power sector/downward push, and the left pedal is about to come "over the top" ready for its own power stroke.
Edit 2: Solved! This is a brand new crank set that I installed onto a year-old bottom bracket. I must have installed the left arm wrong. I took it off, cleaned and re-greased the crank bolt tread and the faces of the square tapered spindle, put everything back together, tightened with care, and the knock is now gone.


texts: Rear seat for kids electric bike above battery

texts:
I have a bicycle as in the picture. Are there any child seats that can be fixed in the rear of this bicycle?
ANy suggestion is appreciated.


texts:
I'd like to get some quality prescription sunglasses for cycling. Can anyone make some suggestions on a brand they like?

Thanks very much.


texts: Do you know as soon as you are riding on a flat?

texts:
Today I did a 55km ride and at some point I got a puncture on my rear tyre. The problem is that I do not know if I kept on driving for a while on it and damaged the tyre or the rim, although the rim does not look damaged when I look at it from the outside. For some reason, which might be because I thought that I was pedalling more than I should, I looked at the tyre and saw that I got a flat, which at such point, stopped immediately. This is my first puncture and I am going to my bike shop to repair it this time around, and then buy a repair kit, since today I was lucky that I stopped at a common place from where they could pick my up, and I am not going to risk getting stranded in the middle of nowhere some time in the future.

My question is, if you do not look at the tyre and you get a flat, do you realise that you have a flat? Or you may end up driving for some kilometres before you take notice? Especially if you are tired after a long ride?


texts: I have steel pieces after using my turbo trainer? How can I solve this problem? Is this is a problem?

texts: I am using an Elite Directo 2019 turbo trainer. After every ride I have some pieces around my bike. How can I solve this problem? And where to search the issues? thank you for the answer. I am using a carbon framed bike.


texts: I have just bought a brand new bike which was put together in the store and the disc brakes, which I have never had before, make a very slight scratching noise. Does this need altering or is it fine because it's a new bike?


texts: 148-to-141 conversion effect on spoke length?

texts:
I'm building a set of wheels using:

WTB KOM Light i40 rims - 27.5"
Hope Pro 4 Hubs - 100mm front / 148mm rear

However, I have converted the rear hub to a 141mm using Hope's QR conversion kit.

Does this change have an effect on the spoke length calculation?

I have used the DT Swiss spoke calculator with the values from WTB and Hope for ERD, and PCD/offset. But I'm unsure if the PCD/offset values are changed by the conversion to 141.


texts: Chain getting in between sprocket and rear dropout

texts: My girlfriend has a vintage Nishiki womens road bike, and recently there have been instances when shifting, the chain sometimes falls off the smallest sprocket and ends up stuck between the rear dropout and the sprocket. It has to be forcefully pulled out and placed back on the cogs. Do I need to readjust the derailleur? Are there other possibilities that might cause this to happen?


texts: Asymmetric wheel. Which side should the "asymmetry" be on?

texts:
I'm currently building a front wheel based on a WTB i35 rim. This is an asymmetric rim, and you can see a picture of it below.
As you see, one side is larger than the other, and I was wondering which side of the wheel that this side is supposed to be on. Should I place it so that the largest side point to the right or the left? Or does it not matter since the spoke length of both sides are identical?

Originally from  http://southernwheelworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/FullSizeRender-30.jpg


texts: What is the most efficient way to ride up or down hills, and into or away from wind?

texts:
I'm trying to work out how hard I should push myself when riding up or down a hill. Similarly, how hard should I push myself when riding into, or away from, or perpendicular to wind?

My aim is to arrive at a location in the shortest amount of time possible. I would assume that if I output more power going up a hill, then I would have to compensate by outputting less power going down the other side (let me know if you disagree). So, what is the most efficient way to achieve this aim? Is it better to work harder (and save time) up hills, or work harder (and save time) down hills. Similarly, how does wind affect this, both on the flat and concurrently? For the purposes of this question, assume I am riding by myself and hence ignore slipstreaming

Extra points for justification of your answer with links and/or physics. (N.B. there are no extra points.)


texts: Touring as a noob... Daily duration and distance?

texts:
I've just started cycling on a cheap mountain bike. I've never cycled more than 90min in one go and average around 12mph.

The idea of cycling all day for days on end just sounds horrific and training for it sounds full without having a destination.

What would a novice cyclist tend to do in terms of distance and hours cycling if doing say a week long trip?

Do I need to train at such long durations or once I'm past a certain duration is it just about keeping hydrated and fed?


texts: Does hub diameter or hub size have a notice able effect on the aerodynamic performance of a wheel set?

texts: If you were to change the rear hub on your hypothetical or real zipp 808 wheel set to a large diameter internal gear hub like a shimano alfine or a rohlhoff hub would there be a measure able aero dynamic effect?


texts: Which electrical freight bicycle would you recommend?

texts:
I am looking for a bicycle to make my car redundant for weekly groceries.
A typical Saturday trip would be to the department store(5 km) then to my parents for delivery (20 km) then to another shop (20 km) then back home (5 km), with a up to 45 kg of luggage.
The possibility to fix the dog in it or in the future to transport grand children would be an asset.
I was thinking of Larry vs Harry.com or Urban Arrow.

Any experience with these makes?
Any other suggestions?


texts: Installing an IGH in a Trek District SSB

texts:
I own a Trek District SSB, which uses Trek's proprietary belt drive system. I'd wanted a bike with an internal gear hub, but they only offered a 3-speed version as an upgrade, so I decided to buy the SSB and upgrade it myself to something a little beefier.

The SSB has the same frame as the IGH 3, so it already has the cable guides for the hub. I'm going to take my bike to a local community shop to do the conversion, so I should have people on hand to help me with any problems I run into. What I am looking for help with is my shopping list (although warnings and gotchas are welcome).

The IGH 3 claims to use a Shimano Nexus 3-speed hub in the specs, but shows a picture of a Shimano Alfine hub. Would this work, plus this shifter? Will I be able to swap the drivetrain components over from the SSB to the new hub, or do I need to order replacements for anything?

(Referring to this question, it sounds like an Alfine hub should be compatible. I'm still uncertain about exactly which other components I'll need to order.)


texts:
I'm baffled. I installed a new chain, cassette, cables and housing yesterday. On the stand, all is happy and shifting is silky smooth. On the road all seems happy except on the bigger cogs in back (in either ring) where it feels like the chain might skip somewhere under load. More frustratingly, the chain will periodically drop to the inside. On the big ring, it'll drop to the small ring. If I'm in the small ring and biggest cog, the chain will drop without fail within a few pedal revs. When this happens, the chain isn't rubbing on the derailleur though there is definitely the sensation of something slipping. The limit screw is adjusted as far in as possible without the chain rubbing on the derailleur.

I'm struggling to find a cause. I'm using the same wheels and didn't touch the crankset - the chainline didn't change. The chainrings are in good shape, but to eliminate that as a cause, I swapped in an unused pair to no avail.

Any ideas? Thanks


texts: Presta valve inner tube issue: area around the valve does not fill up

texts:
I have this problem I keep running into and it's getting pretty expensive.
I've bought many inner tubes and when I pump the tire up with air, the inner tube fills up really good except in the area where the valve is. That area is still completely flat and I can't figure out why. I use a Presta valve adapter since I use a mini hand pump that doesn't have the Presta pump hole...could that be the problem?


texts: Bike was working fine. I was stopped at a stop sign, when I went to pedal it jerked and felt like my chain popped off, but it had not. Pedaling does nothing. The back wheel still rolls if I push it. It’s not locked up and the pedals and sprockets spin but rough now, and it makes a clanking noise. sounds like its coming from inside the axle - I can still use the brakes though. it’s a single speed beach cruiser with coaster brakes.


texts: Bottom bracket needing repacement more often in a single speed bike

texts:
I used to live in quite a hilly area but managed well with a single speed Mango aluminium bike on most of these hills. I wanted to know if it is possible that due to extra pressure being exerted on the pedals and therefore on the crank and bottom bracket system, the bottom bracket might need replacing more often than a bottom bracket in a bike with multiple gears? I feel like I do damage to my bottom bracket way more quickly than I should. Perhaps the bottom brackets I have had were of low quality? I don't currently know what of bottom bracket I have installed.
In general what factors are involved in the usual degradation of the bottom bracket?


texts: Is a long, high angle stem safe to use with a carbon steerer?

texts:
I purchased a hardly used road bike someone else had built up for a deal a few weeks ago, and am a bit disappointed with the fit - it's fine for rides less than a couple hours, but too aggressive for anything longer, for my tastes. In particular, the problem is that my saddle is about an inch and a half above my handlebars, even after inverting the 6 degree, 75mm stem that is installed currently.

So I purchased a 40 degree, 120mm stem to try and get the handlebars as high up as possible. However, I'm now a bit worried that having the handlebars so far from the steerer tube, which is carbon, will offer too much leverage and may cause the steerer to catastrophically fail when, for example, I ride out of the saddle.

Does this seem safe? Are there any guidelines for how long and steep a stem can be for safe use with a carbon steerer?

For what it's worth, I'm about 145 lbs and the fork is an Enve Road Fork 2.0.


texts: Should I rotate the back left or right tire to the front tire.  The front brakes are locking up on the front tire.  I have also loosened the brakes on both sides as much as possible too.  Could rotating the left or right back tire to the front tire solve the front brakes from rubbing on the rim.


texts: What are the side effects of blood doping?

texts: It has been in the news that endurance athletes such as cyclists sometimes increase their red blood cell count by blood doping. I don't understand how you can just pump more blood into yourself, there must be some bad side effects to doing this, right?


texts: My back tire is rubbing on the frame and is having a great impact on the speed of my cycle.


texts:
I have Sugino Impel Crank that little bit peeled off (like white spot and Gray Spot).
Can I fix this issue with wet sanding using sand paper?
I already search little bit, but still Im not sure it will work.
Anyone have experience in polishing crank?
Thanks before.
here attached image for reference


texts: Can I reuse an old rim to build a new wheel?

texts:
So, theoretically, can I strip an old rear 700c wheel of its rim and then use same (aluminum) rim to build a wheel with a different hub and different spokes? I'm aware that stressed aluminum is dangerous, but I wonder if one can get away with it.

Any advice appreciated.


texts:
Barbie and Ken both love to ride the bike. Ken is a strong guy who likes to ride 60km as fast as possible, enjoys of getting to the edge of his strength. Barbie is more relaxed, likes to enjoy the view when riding and rides about 20km on a ride.

Now, Barbie and Ken decided to go for a ride together. They decided to meet in the middle and ride 30km. After the trip, no one was happy:

Barbie was very exhausted because of the long distance
Ken was bored because he would have liked to ride longer

What can they do in the future to enjoy riding the bike together?


texts: Truvativ Firex chainset replacement middle 32 tooth chainring & bolts

texts:
I have a Truvativ FireX chainset from 2008ish, I'm looking for a replacement middle chainring however, no shops seem to stock replacements for Truvativ chainsets.

Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for chainrings that should fit a Truvativ Firex chainset (i.e. is there an industry standard size for them, or do they vary).

Thanks for any help.

EDIT: In the end I couldn't find one online from a reliable source, so I went to a local bike shop, and they had one in stock (Cost more than the shimano alternatives though).


texts: This is the third time that I've had a leaking Presta valve on the tube. There must be a way of repairing the Presta valve rather than having to discard a good tube. Someone did it by applying glue, but I didn't watch closely enough to see where he put the glue. What can I do?


texts: How to carry a large backpack on a bike rack?

texts:
My 3 kids ride their bikes to school and carry 20 pound back packs stuffed quite large. They won't fit in any pannier I can find.

I've considered hanging them off the side of the pannier with bungies to keep them from shifting, and perhaps a sheet of stiff plastic to keep them out of the spokes.

Side baskets are too large for them to fit their bike @ the bike rack @ school.
I've also considered a very narrow basket on top of the rack but puts the center of gravity high, makes it harder to swing their leg over the bike, etc.

Looking for better ideas.


texts:
Hi I have a 9 speed setup with the derailleur that springs to the largest cog.

My problem is that when I change through the gears one at time it misses 1 whole gear in the middle. It doesn't sit and "chatter" trying to change, it just jumps over 1. When I get to the smallest I still have one more shift on the shifter.

I am reasonably experienced at getting gears indexed and can normally get them right but this is driving me mad. the low screw is set just right and their is no slack on the cable when in the low gear. It changes fine the first 2/3 gears then misses one and carries on fine to the highest the same in reverse.
any ideas?

Thanks


texts: Brand new Shimano BB-UN300 hard to spin when drive side is fully torqued

texts:
I'm installing a brand new BB-UN300 (68x122mm) into a 1991 Specialized Sequoia (replacing the pitted cup and cone BB). Out of the box, the BB doesn't spin very freely by hand, but that's to be expected out of brand new seals I guess.
The problem is when I fully tighten the BB into the drive side of the bike. That's when it barely turns at all, even with the crank arm attached. It's hard to explain how hard it feels to spin, so I'll just explain it like this: crank arm attached, moved up 90 degrees, released, and it goes straight down and stays there, without moving from side to side at all.
Any idea why this might be happening? I would understand it if it happened when tightening the NDS, since that would put excessive preload on the bearings on that side, but this happens with just the DS threaded in. Why would the torque on the DS affect how freely the spindle spins?


texts:
I ride a road bike daily for commuting (~2.5 miles) and I like having toe clips (cages, straps, whatever other name they go by) so that I don't have to use special bike shoes.  My bike came with toe clips, but when the plastic on those finally busted, it was time for a new set.  I ended up getting some Wellgo pedals that came with toe clips, and they work great except for the fact that they are too long - with the wrong combination of pedal position while turning the front wheel, they will actually collide with the tire.  This is not only annoying, but dangerous (I have had two minor falls from it while I'm trying to find another solution).
In shopping around for toe clips online, I seem to only find ones that look similarly long to the ones I got (interestingly, this length is almost never specified in the product details), or they are very short and much more minimal, with no strap that goes over the mid-foot (I think called a "half toe clip").  Can anyone recommend a shorter toe clip with a full strap, or a better way I should be searching for these?  I am confused by the lack of results for a very similar product that just has a shorter length from the front of the toe to the front of the pedal (or equivalently, to the center of the pedal).


texts:
I have lots of bikes and lots of interesting wheel sizes, I would like to know how to calculate the right spoke lengths for a wheel.

I appreciate that there are probably rather a lot of variables but this is something that has been an issue for me from time to time so being able to work out the right spoke length for an arbitrary wheel (did I mention that I have half a dozen or more different wheel sizes in the garage?) would be useful.

To be clear - I don't want a calculator, I want to know what the sums are.


texts:
Can I use my CycleOps Mag Trainer without the skewer?

The skewer that came with my trainer does not fit properly. Does anyone know if I can use it with a Shimano Nexus 3/8" cap nut?


texts: Should I replace my bicycle tires if they have not been inflated in multiple years

texts: A little over 5 years ago I bought a Magna bicycle. Within the first summer of riding it the rear brake fell apart. I finally got around to having he brake fixed this past month but I am worried about the quality of the tires as the bike (which has been hanging in my un-insulated garage for 5 years with many cold winters) has not had the tires inflated in 5 years. I recently checked the PSI on the tires with my gauge and it is 2 PSI. I'm wondering if I should get the tires replaced. I haven't tried putting any air into them as I don't want the tires to pop. Any help is appreciated.


texts: Why did my chain start coming off on the right side of the chainring sometimes when I am pedaling in high gear?

texts:
I have a 7 speed bike with one chain ring. Recently the chain has started coming off the right side of the chainring occasionally when I am pedaling. My bike has about 2000 miles on it and is about 7 years old. I ride in the northeast in winter so it is exposed to road salt.

I think the chain is coming off when I am in 7th gear and the chain is angling in to the chainring from the right side where the smallest sprocket (7th gear) on my rear wheel is.

I suppose this angle is too steep so that the teeth on the chain ring do not fit into the spaces in the chain but hit the edge of the chain and the chain falls off.

I checked the crank and I don't think it is loose. I can't reproduce the problem deliberately.

I see on the internet some people change their chain at 2000 miles but some wait much longer. Could a worn chain cause the problem?

Is there any other likely explanation?

Why would this start to happen now?

Is there any way to fix it?

Thanks


texts:
I regularly use a hat under my helmet and a neck warmer.  This keeps me relatively warm in the winter but leaves a bit to be desired.  What are the best options to keep your face warm?

Some people in NYC particularly those riding electric devices wear full face motor cycle style helmets.  I’ve never tried that but it must keep you warm...


texts: Is Marseille a safe place to ride a bicycle?

texts:
I learned to ride a bike quite recently and I was thinking about moving to Marseille next year to study.

I love bikes and I would love to be able to get one there and move around the city using it. I've also seen that there are a lot of beautiful locations surrounding the city and I would love to know if I could get there using the bike.

I mentioned the fact that I learned to ride quite recently because I am still afraid of the cars and I would prefer not to ride along the cars in the road. So, is there any kind of cycle lane to move around the city?

Also if anyone could tell me if it is usual for the residents to move around using a bike it would be great.


texts: How should I measure my 60 second resting heart rate?

texts: My heart rate monitor has a feature that measures my drop in heart rate over a 60 second resting period.  It is suppose to just be a measure of heart fitness (the faster the drop the better your heart), but I haven't been able to come up with a consistent way to use it.  Should I start just casually pedaling? Stop pedaling? Stop the bike? Get off the bike?  The biggest drop I get is I get off the bike and sit down on a bench, but I'm not going for biggest, I'm just trying to figure out how I should measure it that would give me a result that I could compare to my other results and maybe compare to a chart of values and how good they are if such a chart exists.


texts: will an old wheelset support 28mm (28c) 700c tires or will they "balloon"

texts:
My bike is early 2000s and came with Shimano wh-r540 wheelset and 26mm tires

googling shows ETRTO: 622 x 13C (internal width?) and 19mm (external width?)

I've successfully used 25mm tires but considering going to 28mm since I believe there is clearance everywhere important for a tire that wide

However I am questioning if the rim is too narrow to properly support a 28mm and that it will "balloon" defeating the benefits of 28mm

But I've noticed new bikes that come with 28mm typically have a very wide rim to support the tire so the tire sits more square or inwards and not ballon out

ie. modern rim + 28mm tire profile =   /----\

ie. old 540 rim + 28mm tire profile =   \----/

does it matter? will it defeat the benefits of 28mm for handling?


texts: Fortified Bicycle appears to gone out of business -- where to get one of their replacement bike light batteries?

texts:
One of the two rechargeable batteries that go with my Fortified Bicycle's lights appears to have started to die permanently. (The other remains in good condition.) I have looked through eBay and found nothing there. Can I get usable replacements from another manufacturer via an online battery story or bike store?
I do not know much about bikes but I can tell you that these batteries recharge using ports. Printed on the battery: 18350 950 mAh 3.7 Li-Ion. These connect via port to a computer or charger for recharging.


texts: My front rotor seems to be making a grinding noise, I have a relatively new bike and I’m not sure what’s causing it

texts: I’m new to cycling and I have a road bike with hydraulic disc brakes. I noticed that they are making a quiet, but audible grinding noise. I’ve heard this noise before and since I have a new bike, could this noise be caused by the brake pads needing to be bedded in? When I heard it the first time, it was much louder and then it started to dial down a bit. Anyone know what could be causing this? Thanks


texts: Significant difference between 28C and 32C tires?

texts:
I have a Schwinn Sporterra 2011. It has a 622x20 rim and the default tires are 700x38C. I'm thinking of "upgrading" to thinner tires.

Now, my local cycle shop has Specialized tires that are 32C. They can also get me Schwalbe 28C tires, but in 2-3 weeks time. What I'm trying to understand is, coming from 38C tires, how much of a difference will 28C or 32C make -- Difference to things like speed and handling? Will 28C be much "faster" and worth the long wait time?

(I'm actually thinking of switching to a road bike in 6 months but till the time I save up for that, I want to get thinner tires on the current bike. I was told they'll make quite a difference. Thoughts?)


texts: Hydraulic brakes with time trial levers?

texts: I've read that only mechanical brakes work with road bike levers (I'm assuming that means the type that goes on the front of drop bars). Is this restriction the case with time trial brake levers that go on the end of bullhorn handles?


texts: Can I install caliper or cantilever brakes on a frame and set of wheels designed for disc brakes?

texts: I have a 2008 Giant XTC 01 that came with disc brakes. Those brakes have been difficult to service throughout my time with the bike, now the pads on the back are worn out the fluid lines on the front has ruptured. As such, I'm ready to consider replacing the disc brakes with more easily serviced calipers or cantilevers. The problem is, I'm not sure whether my frame and wheels will support this style of brake. Attached are images of the fork, wheels, and frame.


texts: What is the maximum number of pucture repairs an inner tube can take?

texts:
Any thoughts - my spare tube that I carry in my bag currently has a dozen or so patches on it, but still works fine. I'm tempted to keep going to see how many I can get on there until it get impossible to mend.

What is the most number of patches you reckon a tube can take ?

(And I know new inner tubes are only £5 or so, but a puncture repair costs about 10p if you buy the patches and glue in bulk, so "It's cheaper to buy a new one" is not necessarily true...)


texts: A tire with the size of 700 x 23c, when changed to inches, what is the diameter and what is the width?


texts:
I'm looking at replacing the cassette and chainrings on an old Giant CRS 4.0 bought way back in around 2009 (I think) and trying to find compatible (and still available) parts.
Its parts are listed as

Cassette: Shimano TZ37 14-34 freewheel
Chain: KMC Z51
Crankset: Suntour 28/38/48
Bottom bracket: Cartridge

I am considering buying

Sunrace 7/8 Speed Chainset

Shimano HG41 7 Speed Cassette

Shimano CN-HG40 6/7/8-Speed 116 Link Chain With Connecting Link

So I'm not sure on a few things:

How do I know if the chainset is compatible with my bottom bracket cartridge?
Are all shimano cassettes compatible if the speed matches?
Am I right that replacing a 14-34T cassette with a 11-28T cassette will result in less gear range on the higher and lower ends, with more similar gearing?
Is it a bad idea to buy a chainset instead of individual chainrings? It seems like a cheap component and might be a simpler process?
Any other compatibility problems I've not spotted?

Thanks!


texts: Competing against a 10 Speed Bike with 7 Speed bike?

texts:
I have been cycling for almost about 9 years now. I believe, I have worked myself up to become quite a efficient cyclist. Still, I never felt the need to upgrade my gears to 10 speed, except in races.

Now, here is my recent small story

  A fresher, who just bought a expensive bike with everything the
  modern technology offers, is suddenly bullying a 7 speed bike of mine
  in the race.

  Here I am cycling my butt off, with maintaining as much high cadence as I can.
  And there he comes, cycling with a very average cadence without even the
  breaking a sweat and pulling up way ahead of me.

There has to be something like skills or techniques an fairly experienced rider can pull-off to at least become competitive with 10-speeders?


texts: Diagnose grinding sound from single rear cog

texts:
I've got a '70s-era ten-speed road bike with (what I think is) a Huret Eco rear derailleur which shifts well, but for some reason a loud grinding sound emits from the rear of the bike when using the second-smallest cog and riding using this cog feels much less smooth than the others. However, the cog itself doesn't look worn or damaged, and the derailleur tracks quite well.

Of course, since this bike has down tube shifters, some grinding can occur in any gear. Nevertheless, it is very easy for me to trim the derailleur with any other cog in order to eliminate this grinding... except for the second-smallest one: No matter how much I try adjusting the derailleur's trim using the shifter, I can't eliminate this grinding on this one cog and only this one cog. Even more strangely, there is no significant difference in feeling/sound when running the chain on the small chainring as opposed to on the big one.

What is going on here? Is some part somehow worn/damaged or simply needs adjustment?


texts: Is it acceptable to mountain bike on narrow hiking trails?(Minnesota)

texts:
I've recently been getting more into mountain biking. I like to take my bike out every so often onto unpaved trails, but the closest designated mountain biking trails in my area are not a short trip away.

However, there are several un-paved trails that are within my area that are not designated as solely hiking or biking trails. I've been taking my bike out on these trails recently, but am worried if what I'm doing is acceptable practice. A lot of the trails I tend to go on are narrow trails that are wide enough for a single bike to ride on. It feels that if there is a hiker on the trail, there is very little room for them to pass if I yield.

This made me wonder if there were any regulations on biking down these trails. I know that larger parks designate their trails for either biking or hiking, but is it right to assume that small parks that have no noted designation on their trails can be used as a shared trail?


texts:
So a couple of days ago I regreased my back wheel hub bearings, put it back together so there's no play, golden. But when I put it back in the bike one side is constantly rubbing.

Tried loosening and tightening the caliper clamp bolts, no luck. Checked if the rotor is bent, it's not bent. On a closer look of the caliper without the pads in I noticed that one of the pistons is sticky. So I cleaned the pistons with alcohol and put some mineral oil on the sides and pumped it and pushed it back in a few times until they come out evenly, still rubs. Bled the brake, still rubs. Adjusted my hub over to the side it was rubbing, still rubs.

I have literally done everything except change the pads, but I doubt that's going to work either. What is going on? It was fine before I cleaned out the hub, apart from the fact that it was gritty when I rode it, which is why I cleaned it.


texts:
I ride a Giant Anthem with Recon Race Rock Shox. I only ride on tar roads so the suspension is disengaged/locked out. I braked to a halt and heard a sharp popping sound, then fluid/oil began to leak out - running freely. My question is whether i need to have this repaired considering the surface I ride on. Would I be damaging the suspension by doing this?

Pic as requested, trust it will help. I simply need to know if I can the bike without further/any damage to the bike.


texts: New bike advice - Singlespeed/fixed, mountain, or road

texts:
I'm looking at getting a new bike to replace my current hardtail mtb for commuting about 8 miles a day, plus possible train travel, and longer commutes elsewhere.

With a budget of under £400, do I go for a mid range singlespeed/fixie with a flip flop hub, and just man up and struggle through the hills, or get a bottom/low range road bike, risk it getting stolen/trampled/damaged, but have the ability to go on longer rides (which doesn't really interest me, but will still happen occasionally).

As I see it, a singlespeed is less flashy, so therefore will not attract as much attention with regard to theft, and although would be a struggle on longer pleasure rides, will outweigh the benefits of a road bike with gears?


texts:
My cousin recently bought a recumbent bike (well, I suppose it's technically a trike) and has been having a blast with it. I'd love to encourage her new hobby and get her an accessory for it as a Christmas present. Unfortunately, I know next to nothing about recumbents and what might be useful to have.

So, recumbent riders: what would you love to have or what do you find useful when you go out for a ride?

Update: My problem, specifically, is that I don't know what make/model of recumbent they have. So I'm looking for accessories that will work with all (or almost all) models. Not necessarily accessories that are exclusive to recumbents in particular.


texts: Bike lights with beam cut-off to avoid dazzling drivers?

texts:
Are there any bike headlights available that have a cut-off similar to a car's low beams, designed to avoid glare for other drivers? I am using the Light in Motion Urban 400 and while it's plenty bright, it blinds oncoming drivers if aimed normally. In traffic I have to aim the hotspot very low, basically defeating the purpose of having a pricy, bright LED light.

Are there modifications that can be done to the existing light, like blocking part of the reflector that is responsible for sending light upwards? (It's a single LED with a simple paraboloid reflector) Reading about the complexity of the design and regulations for car headlights, this seems unlikely, but I'd love to be wrong.

Alternatively, I am looking for recommendations for a better headlight. The Specialized Flux and the older Phillips SafeRide 80 seem to fit the bill. Not sure how bright the Phillips is with 220 lumens, but it meets German regulations so surely it has a great beam shape.


texts: Can anyone identify this Shimano derailleur?


texts: My stem keeps moving side to side even thought I tighten it

texts: I just got a new Demolition Stem.I tight it with all my force And It keeps slipping side to side Like it doesnt match with the fork lined up And whenever I check it its fine but after a while it is always not lined up with the fork..Please help me


texts: Croozer bike trailer optimalisation for less tire detoriation

texts:
We love to travel by bike. Last summer we did a trip of about 650km on mostly asphalted roads (with quite some medium long climbs and descends) with our son in a bike trailer (type Croozer, see picture below).

During this trip we had to change the outer tires of the cart two times. The first change could be related to previous use (intensively used for commuting), but after another 400km we had to change them again due to wear (all rubber deteriorated on the outer tires).
As you can see on the picture above the cart has wheels that are a bit tilted, making it more stable. We noticed that the wear appeared not in the middle of the tires but more towards the inside (due to this tilting).
The cart is coupled to our bikes with a kind of spring mechanism, which allows free rotation in all directions and some vertical and horizontal movement. The spring has some negative effects. You notice the effect of that when braking (the cart itself has no brakes). Going downhill the cart tries to break out. Would changing this to a ball hitch contribute in solving my problem?
The wheels each have their own axle that makes it easier to remove the wheels. This is handy when taking it on a train or parking it somewhere (you can lock the cart to a post and remove one wheel so nobody can ride away with it). However, due to this system there is a little bit of play on the axles. The tires are size 20 x 1.75.

The wear on the outer tires makes it difficult to take longer trips because you need to take spare outer tires for every 400km you plan to do. I was wondering if I could make adjustments to this trailer in order to improve the lifetime of the outer tires.
The wear was a lot slower when using it for commuting (no steep descends on the road) compared to our holiday trip (climbs and descends of 5%, load at 80% of the max load allowed by the manufacturer).

What I found on sheldonbrown.com already helps a bit in determining the tire pressure. I think I will inflate them a little bit less. I always used maximum pressure (4 bar, 60 Psi) so I would need less force to pull the cart. However this can contribute to faster wear apparently:

Trikes and two-wheel trailers are very different from bikes, because they don't lean in corners. Most tire wear comes from cornering forces. On a bike, these forces act on different parts of the tread, according to how far one leans into various corners at various speeds.
With a trailer or trike, all of the wear is concentrated on the middle of the tread. If you overinflate the tires, you'll be riding on only the very center of the tread, and it will wear rapidly.
In addition, wheel alignment is never going to be perfect. As a result, the paired tires will always "scrub" a bit. If the tires are rock-hard, this will cause rapid wear. If the tires are softer, they can flex slightly sideways to accommodate the scrub, without wearing the tread off.

However I want to improve lifetime further. Which steps can I take next?


texts: Does it make sense to switch to single chainring on an older mountain bike?

texts:
Very recently I've started seeing a setup like this on pretty regular bikes:

(Image taken from CyclingID forum)

Appeal of the single chainring

To me the positives of this setup became quite obvious the moment I saw it: fewer parts to clean and maintain, no "dead" chainring-cogset combinations (and the occasional "thumb fight" that comes with it), less clutter on already busy handle bar. Weight is not an issue for me (see below). Price for many new parts is the single disadvantage I can think of, but I'm doing it for fun and money isn't a big problem.

My current bike

I have an older (10-15 years) 26" aluminium frame mountain bike with a suspension fork and hard tail. Shifting is Shimano SLX 3 x 9 with short derraileur tension arm and some very worn out levers.  I upgrade and update the bike regularly for both practicality and the fun I get from taking the thing apart and making it a bit nicer. The scale of upgrades goes along the lines of upgrading the supermarket-grade fork to RockShox Tora Air, basic Shimano V brakes to Avid Juicy 5, nice sturdy Remerx wheels and so on. Weight is too horrendous to even mention but I don't mind (and don't want to mind). So basically a very expensive fairly crap bike. The original basic Shimano chainrings are getting old (and too worn, I fear) and I'm thinking about he best replacement.

The question: a small update or big upgrade

The chain, chain rings and cog wheels need replacing, and I'd happily swap the old (and perhaps a bit worn, too) square tapper bearing bracket for something nice as well. I'm not happy with the overal gear change function (caused by old age of the system from levers through wires to improper part combinations I came to over the years) and I'd like to overhaul that as well. So there are two options for me (see further down still), and I want to avoid the possible trap of the appealing and fashionable new thing, the silliness of which I fail to imagine in advance. Are there any downsides of the second option apart from higher part costs? Is there something important I am missing in the shopping list for the second option? Does the second option even make sense?

Option 1 - What I'd upgrade anyway: Chain, cables + cable housing, gear change levers, frame bearing bracket, crank arms with chain rings, cog wheels.

Option 2 - Upgrade to single chain link: Chain, fewer cables and cable housing, one more expensive gear change lever, more expensive crank arms with integrated bearings, new rear derailleur, a new hub with all that goes with it if necessary (I'm afraid it will be).

Update I don't want to buy a new bike even though I'd get more of a modern bike for less money. I'm drawn by the prospect of less shifting and less maintenance and am looking for possible drawbacks or obstacles one can't imagine until one bumps in them mid-upgrade.


texts: Where can I purchase/download UCI Pro Tour/pro cycling race footage?

texts: I love watching old races - they're especially great for long sessions on the trainer. However, I can find only a few stages/races on Youtube, and most of the videos are simply highlights. Where might I be able to purchase/download pro race footage (licitly)?


texts:
I've just bought a new (Planet X) Holdsworth Stelvio (http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBHOLSTELTIAG/holdsworth-stelvio-shimano-tiagra-4700-touring-adventure-bike) and am having a problem with the front disc brake rotor being too close to the brake mount/adapter.

The lower bolt & washers holding the caliper to the adapter are less than 1mm away from the rotor and the caliper is adjusted fully outwards (away from the rotor) at this point. On spinning the wheel there is no contact, but whilst riding and putting any pressure through the frame there is nearly always contact between the rotor and the washer/adapter.

Note: next two images with bike upside down

The brakes are Avid BB5s as come standard on the Tiagra build of the Stelvio.

So far I've tried:
- tightening the bolts holding the adapter to the fork,
- adjusting the caliper position (though there is little movement since the rotor is too close),
- wheel is correctly seated in the fork,
- checking the truing of the rotor - it is true (brand new rotor).

I can only think that there might be an issue with the hub, somehow placing the rotor too far out on the left hand side? So far, the manufacturer have been helpful, but have only suggested things I have already tried.

Any ideas?


texts:
I have a vintage Peugeot carbolite 103 frame which is really bent. The rear triangle is bent in the direction of the drive side to such an extent that the drive side crank arm is blocked by the frame and cannot spin a full circle.
When I look at it from the back it is very noticeable.

Is there any way it can be cheaply fixed and will be safe to ride?

Thanks


texts: Will this crankset be a good replacement

texts:
I removed my 3 ring crankset from my old mountain bike and it was welded together so I have to replace the whole thing. The bottom bracket is square taper. The chainrings were 48, 38, and 28 teeth and there's an 82mm BCD. Will this crankset be ok? It seems like it might work because it's square taper (the only thing I took into account.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1S6TVK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1E5K32CINJQSZ&psc=1


texts: Should I change gear set to increase gear ratio on old bike (2011 GT Zaskar)?

texts:
I've been away and just got back into bikes after 10 years and bought a used 2011 GT Zaskar 29" MTB (similar specs to this https://www.pinkbike.com/product/gt/2011-Zaskar-29er-Expert/).

I find that the highest gear (biggest chainring + smallest sprocket) is "too easy" on flat or on downslope.. in other words, i want to be able to go faster.

I think I may need to invest into new chainring / gearset. Question is whether this bike is a good quality bike (and given the age) that's worth sinking more money into (vs get another)?

Happy to hear opinions and advice. Thanks.


texts: Could I use a front rim to build a rear wheel?

texts:
Could I build a rear wheel using a front rim?

Edit: Follow-on question Spokes stick out of nipples when rebuilding wheel reusing spokes.


texts:
I bought almost an year ago a Fiido D2 bike. I use it everyday for my commute to work and unfortunately it broke.

I brought it to a bike repairer and he said that there's nothing he can do. The only solution is to buy a new one.

My problem is that I can't find it online, I googled a lot about it but no shock absorbers of the Fiido D2 found.

Does anyone can suggest me where I can find this shock absorber replacement?


texts:
I am going to buy a bike and ride upto 1000 km or more in a month. Adding them, I think it will come to 12 k to 15 k per year on an average.
I will be riding on highways, so there won't be any off-roads. Nevertheless, the roads in my country are not well maintained.
Let us consider that initially the bike is comfortable and everything fine at the time of purchase.

What are the different problems (repairs & maintenance) that occur?
Among those which ones will cost me and which ones will be free of cost.
Also if it is possible, answer them with 'high, medium, low' cost of maintenance.


texts:
I'm bike shopping for my first road bike, and I've asked for a lot of advice from my father who was a serious cyclist once upon a time.  After showing him one prospective bike, he dismissed it with a simple "you don't want a triple" with zero explanation on why.

What are the pros and cons in having a Triple, vs having a Double crankset?  Does it differ from road bikes, to mountain bikes?


texts: Anyone tried piggy-backing one Wolf Roadlink on top of another?

texts: I want to get a 46t sprocket on my old 9 speed Shimano Deore derailleur. The Wolftooth Roadlink only allows for a 40t, could I double-up two Roadlinks and get that extra capacity, or...?


texts: I have 5 spokes missing. Is it OK to ride on it, and how long will it last, or will my wheel just break on me? I will be going to work on it every day.


texts: GT MTB - New tires - same size front/rear or a mix? (based on my needs below)

texts:
Probably questions about tires are an everyday-question on this forum.

I own a GT mountain bike. I was running some tires more for dirt/off-road, but where I moved to live now I have also been riding a lot on tarmac/asphalt/pavement. So I was looking for some tires that would give me:

a good speed on these flat roads (gosh, I have strong legs and still cycle fast, but these actual tires kill me)
still a good grip on off-road dirt/gravel.

I came across the CONTINENTAL Race King ShieldWall (this is the upper-intermediate version of Race Kings).

They sound to have a good grip for off-road, but also appear to be fast on road (of course not as fast a road bike, I'm not looking for it anyways).

Now, bearing in mind my needs stated above, a question came to my mind - and when I search I only see topics/posts/answers from few years ago:

Should I run 2.0" on both rear and front wheel?
Should I run 2.2" on both rear and front wheel?
Should I run 2.0" on front and 2.2 on rear?
Or should I run 2.2" on front and 2.0" on rear?

PS: I'm also open to any other suggestions on tires :)


texts: Why is a road bike faster than a city bike with the same effort? How much faster it can be?

texts:
Why is a road bike faster than a city bike with the same effort? And how much faster it is? (if someone have measured it)

Motive of the question:

My current bike is a city bike with front fork shock absorber and seatpost shock absorber under the saddle.

It is very heavy & I feel maintaining 20 km/hr for 30 minutes is very hard on flat city roads.  I am thinking of switching to a road bike but I want to understand if it is really worth it as my bike is very sturdy, with hub dynamo, fenders & rear rack (all of these are not on the entry level road bikes.)

I know this sound a bit controversial but I hope someone will help me from our community.


texts: I have bought a used Trek 4300 bike and after a few days I noticed leaking oil from front suspension fork. Oil leaks only from one leg (opposite to disk-brakes). I would like to know more about construction of front-suspension. Is this a serious problem? Is it possible to refill suspension with new oil? What kind of oil is used? How much oil is used?


texts: What is the foam tube on the top of bmx frame for?

texts:
What is the foam tube found on some bmx bikes for?

Here's an example:

Besides for advertising, I'm guessing its there to save biker's legs when doing tricks, but I could be wrong, because I've seen most bmx bikes without it.

What exactly is it for?


texts: How are the flat/aero bullhorn handelbars called?

texts:
I've seen some bikes which look really good (IMHO) with a bullhorn handlebar which is flat and has an aero design.

After some googling I've only found this model which is really expensive:

Do they have some kind of strange name to search them and find something more affordable?

Is it possible to mount normal brake levers in them? (Not in the horns but in the center)

I currently have normal (rounded) bullhorns, but I'd like to get some of this just for aesthetics if I don´t lose functionality.


texts: New to riding what is the best way to ride going uphill? I live on a hill going down is fine but I have a hill to get to the main road.


texts:
My 2012 Model Scott Sub 10 has recently been experiencing issues with the rear disc sticking on my daily commute and getting so bad that I have to stop, wait for it to cool and then push the disc a bit to give it some space. I believe this has been caused by the terrible weather that the UK has experiencing, perhaps with some debris becoming lodged in one of the pistons.

I decided to take the pads out this evening following the guide that came with the bike and cleaned any dirt around the pads but there is still some friction there.

I am debating pouring warm/hot water over the whole brake system in an attempt to remove anything that may still be lodged.

What advice would you you suggest aside taking it to my local bike shop?


texts:
Question: How is infrastructure for bicyclists designed, and how does it evolve?

Related questions to prompt more detailed answers:

When is the right time to build bicycle roads?
How is the budget evaluated for new bicycle facilities?
Is there some way to verify the budgeting premises for bicycle projects?
How are different facilities evaluated?
Are there stages which a city goes through to get a superb bicycle infrastructure?

Longer term considerations:

Suppose the fundamental city plan for cargos and cars is to produce a smooth flow of traffic. Is it easier to plan long-term bicycle road investments together with other roads?
You cannot take every point into account at the start, so how do we make improvements to existing facilities?
How do we make sure progress doesn't stop or reverse?
Is there a way to avoid only reactive fixes (something gets improved only after fatal accident)?
Is the improvement chaotic or a linear progression?


texts: Shimano 105 - double chainring on triple chainset?

texts: I ordered a middle chainring (39T) to change on my 105 5703 chainset. I didn't realise until it arrived that it specifies it is for a double chainset. Does this mean it will not fit on the triple? I suppose I could try it and see, but it is still packed so it could be exchanged.


texts:
I have one KHS sixfifty 500, I want to upgrade my bike so I have already bought

Shimano Deore XT M771 front derailleur
Shimano Deore M590 shifter

So I want to know your suggestion to rear derailleur and cassette?

I want to know if exist rear derailleur with lock.

I was planing to buy Shimano Deore XT M772 rear derailleur but its hard to find in Brazil, so has a model like this?

Thanks


texts: Curious about foot position on clipless and regular pedals when mountain biking

texts:
I normally ride flat pedals and being a mountain biker with a little bit of training behind me, I pedal with the balls of my feet in front of the spindle. I had a pretty good trainer and once I started using this position I felt not only more planted on the bike but my calf muscles didn't need to work even half as hard for a normal pedal stroke.

My question really is, why use the position that SPDs and clips enforce? Is there a greater power transfer for sprinting or something? Having to counteract the pedal stroke force with the calf muscle surely is tiring out more of the body than is needed and there's surely more chance of over exerting the muscle.

I'm just asking out of curiosity as I'm unlikely to alter the pedal position I ride in.


texts: Bike fitting for sore hands, Peugeot ~85 used as commuter

texts:
I'm having problems with my Peugeot from ~85. I get sore hands quite fast when I ride it and it really feels like the pressure on my hands are too much (compared to when I ride other bikes with flat bars).

This is my first bike with dropped bars (but I have been riding a lot on flat bar bikes before).

There are a million questions like. Are the frame too big? Or are there any other signs? What am I doing wrong? And how do I know :)

The frame is 60cm and I'm 187cm.

Thanks in advance and have a fantastic weekend!


texts: What tools to bring for road side chain maintenance

texts:
I've been making a lot of kilometers recently. Although I do proper maintenance on my chain (replacement, cleaning and lubing). It can always happen that one of the links break, or that I am with someone, or encounter someone that has problems with the chain. I always carry my Topeak multitool, which contains such a chain link removal tool as well (don't know the word for it).

However, it is probably not the best tool in itself for  emergency repairs. I am considering to bring one or a few extra pins, such that I can do a repair. At the same time I also read about these easy in use links that you can also use. My question is: what do you recommend me to bring on my bike trips in addition to what I already got, and why?


texts: Can park tool bbt-59 take off ultegra sm-bbr60

texts:
I have a Ultegra SM-BBR60 bottom bracket on my bike and have an old tool that doesn't fit the bearing cups in order to get them off.

My LBS sold me the bbt-59 in order to get it off. However when using it attached to my torque wrench it wont lossen, and keeps slipping off eventually looking like it's starting to thread. So don't want to damage it anymore in case they won't take it back.

I have read here that it is the correct part. However I am not able to get it off.

Just want to make sure this is the correct tool to use, and if it does anyone know why it is not loosening?


texts:
I have click sound when I do pedal hard and uphill.
I tried to troubleshoot:

Tighten my pedal.
Tighten my crank.

and I tried to remove my chain on and tried to add force to left pedal and it clicks, again I tried to add force on the right and it clicks. ( but when I add force on same location it wont click after it clicks).
I assume the problem is within the crank.
Anyone can help me? I also tried to go on mechanic but they said it was on my cogs.


texts: What should I expect from a bicycle service?

texts:
I'm thinking about getting my bicycle serviced for the first time to make sure it's entirely roadworthy.

My question is what should I expect from a bike service from a professional?

i.e. what checks are carried out, what maintenance is done, to what price level will parts be replaced within the service price?

And finally what price should I be paying for a service? (London UK)

EDIT: I'll further add there might be a minor problem with my back dérailleur, no parts needed to fix, just the know how...


texts: What are the pros and cons of suspension seats and suspension handlebars?

texts:
The title says it all, but I’ll add more specifics to give a better understanding of my particular situation.

I am a on-road commuter with little-to-no dirt roads in my routes, many of the roads are VERY degraded and as such are very bumpy. My bike has 26x1.95 tires on it aired up to around 50 psi. I have no suspension other than my seat(spring) and seat stem, as well as on my handlebars. I happen to weigh approximately 225-250 lbs, if that matters. Additionally I do carry a messenger bag or backpack on most days, usually adding another 10-25 lbs. This question regards the pros and cons of the suspension seat stem and handlebars, although I’m open to extending it to other forms of suspension and other methods such as larger tires and tire softening. This is a general question but I would also like to know specifically what I should know about my bike, including upkeep and other things to keep in mind, particularly regarding the suspension I have on it.

tl;dr: I have a road bike with suspension seat stem and handlebars, I commute on degraded and bumpy paved surfaces, I weigh 225-250 lbs on average, I usually carry on-person cargo weighing approximately 10-25 lbs. What should I know about the suspension seat and stem and what other relevant information should I be informed of.


texts: There are only very, very steep climbs here in the area. Instead of the standard 50/34 I would choose a larger big ring. What I'm worried about is how that would compromise shifting. Would there be any problems? (Yes I know, 55-34 is a huge gap [EDIT: in cadence])


texts: How efficient is string bike? Is this really a revolutionary bike?

texts:
Bicycles are getting evolved with good technologies or methodologies as the period changes. Now, this one bike, so called string bike has been introduced, which doesn't have chain, derailleur but gears (the website claims so). How efficient this bike will be when compared to the chained ones? Is this one really going to be a game changer? If not, what are all the disadvantages it has?

(this animation says how it works)


texts: Shimano Tourney rear derailleur 34t support?

texts:
I've just change the freewheel for a 34T and I also changed my rear derailleur for a Tourney 7sp (i run friction shifters).

I would like to have a bit more distance between the cogs and the derailleur. But I cannot. What am I doing wrong? Or are there any trix?


texts: No movement between two lowest shifter settings

texts:
I bought a new derailleur, cassette, and hanger after a decent wreck. Shimano 105 set, 11 speed, 11-34 cassette. I've tried adjusting the shift cable barrel, H/L limit screws, and the screw that sets offset from big cog.
The derailleur hardly moves at all between the two lowest (biggest) gears and when I get to the highest (smallest) gear it doesn't always travel go far enough, and barely even touches the limit screw. I thought indicates the tension is too high, but if I loosen it any more it become sloppy and starts skipping.
The cable is older and has an tiny kink in it in the highest (biggest) gears when loose, should I start with a new cable? I've never worked on the cockpit of a road bike so I've been avoiding taking the bar tape off.
I'm not sure why the derailleur movement at the low end is so small, is that by design? Every other shift causes a noticeable chain-width-sized shift in the jockey wheel's horizontal position.


texts: Mountain bike -- exciting after-market parts, modifications or paint jobs

texts:
I have a Specialized Stumpjumper Comp FSR from 2009. My previous bike was a mean-looking matte black Cannondale Jekyll 1000 with a Lefty fork. Now I've got this vanilla, grey boring looking bike that I love to ride but is so boring to look at.

How can I make this Stumpjumper cooler looking?  The only thing I've done thus far is get some cool new grips and that helps a little. Other ideas for parts to replace? Has anyone had experience with paint jobs?  Any other ideas? ;) I'm willing to put some money into this.

Basically, I'm looking tips based on what other people have done to make their mountain bikes look cooler — more eye-catching.


texts: Disc brakes making a banging sound on steep descents

texts: I got a new bike a few months back. Its a cheap decathlon Rockrider mountain bike so I am not expecting anything too special. However I have noticed that going down steep descents, even slowly, the back disc brake makes a sort of knocking sound, tap tap tap all the while I hold it down. Even if I am going slowly it happens if its steep enough. Going fast and using it on a flat surface it doesn't seem to happen. It's my first bike with disc brakes. Any ideas what's going on?


texts:
I'm interested in converting my Cannondale Bad Boy 2011 into a single speed bike. I found somebody who's done it on a Bad Boy 2008 (there), and somebody else who's done it one a more recent model (there).

But a bike expert told me that not every bike can be converted into SS bikes, and that most Cannondale bikes couldn't, because of the shape of the frame making it impossible to put a single speed cog (or something along these lines).

So, I'm looking for advice as to whether I can convert my BB 2011 into a single speed bike, and if so, whether there is anything different I need to do to do so.

Thank you.


texts: Biking to the airport / leaving a bike for a week

texts: I'd like to try riding to the airport or to public transit when I travel. Does anybody do this? Any suggestions for how to secure a bike if you're going to need to leave it for a week or so?


texts: Why are recumbent bicycles and velomobiles illegal in UCI bicycle racing?

texts:
As stated in the title. However, the "superman" position is also illegal, and the question applies to that as well.

Motor racing will often lean on safety to explain why there are so many limitations to how a car can be built and configured. In Formula One, e.g. fairings are illegal - it can't go too fast, as it becomes "too dangerous" (which is of course not defined, but that's a different matter). Other reasons for different types of motor sports may claim that the cars (such as in SuperGT or DTM) cannot be too dissimilar from actual production cars. Sure they are heavily modified, but they aren't purely built specifically for racing from the ground up. However, even these modifications are strictly regulated, e.g. there are limits on practically everything to slow the cars down (anything from the engine output to aerodynamics to tires, active geometry, etc.), again for safety reasons.

Even though these are justifications perhaps not everyone would agree with, they are at least some form of justification.

Now, what excuse does e.g. UCI cycling regulations have for banning recubment bicycles?

It doesn't seem like they can use the safety feature. Would a recumbent bicycle or velomobile really be that dangerous? From what I understand, recumbent bicycles are legal to use in many countries and are sold openly.

What about not adhering to the real world, being too dissimilar from "normal" bicycles? That also seems strange, given that again recumbent bicycles are sold in the first place.

The only thing I can think of is that a recumbent bicycle or velomobile is simply too "weird". People don't appreciate the aesthetics of it. Perhaps they also don't learn to ride such bicycles, and are discouraged from trying them.

Is that the reason why such rules are imposed on e.g. Tour de France?

To a naive and rather inexperienced bicyclist myself, this seems very arbitrary and counterproductive. I would like to have more efficient bicycles in general.

However, again since my knowledge of bicycles is limited I hope there is a host of problems I don't think about that makes recumbent bicycles and velomobiles dangerous and impractical. I'm curious what they are.

Now before someone points out that a recumbent bicycle may have some disadvantages, I'm talking about in general. If a fully faired recumbent bicycle or velomobile has more advantages than it has disadvantages, then why are they illegal in racing?


texts:
Very often even without extreme riding my wheels are getting light 8-like form.
Is this the reason to change wheels or sleeve
Its more cosmetic problem which can evolute to more problems

My bike is Giant Rebel 4


texts: How seriously should I take the maximum pressure rating of my cyclocross rims?

texts:
I own a very nice cyclocross bike that I use for daily commuting. It is currently fitted with relatively wide cyclocross tires (Continental Cyclocross Race 35-622) that I inflate to 4 bar (58 psi).

Since those tires are nearing the end of their lives and because I'm mostly riding on paved roads, I'm considering to switch to road tires (e.g. Continental Grand Prix 4000S II 28-622). However, I now noticed that my rims (DT Swiss XR 400) have a sticker saying "maximum tire pressure 4 bar" next to a pictogram showing a rim apparently broken at the weld. That pressure is of course hardly enough for any narrow road tires.

My question is now how seriously I should take this limit. I have a hard time imagining how too high pressure would break the rim and how exactly it would fail. Sheldon Brown mentions on his page that maximum pressure ratings are often rather arbitrary and he encourages experimenting, but he's talking about tires there, not rims.

I am willing to risk voiding the warranty on my rims or causing premature wear. But I would like to avoid the risk of catastrophic failure in the middle of traffic.


texts: Do Bike stores allow you to ship a bike to them to assemble?

texts: I live in Orlando, Florida, and I am stuck with no transportation besides public buses, taxis, etc. as my bike literally fell apart in pieces in the middle of a road. I am looking to purchase a new bike, but I would need for it to be professionally assembled. My question is would most bike shops work something out where I could ship it directly to them for assembly, so that I do not have to walk with a bike box for a few miles.


texts: Is lithium grease suitable for lubricating the steel headset cups when pressing them into the aluminium frame?

texts:
Can I use lithium (lithium soap based) grease for lubricating the steel headset cups when pressing them into the aluminium frame?
I mean cups, not the bearings inside them.
Is it good for preventing corrosion on steel/aluminium contact?


texts: If I replace the cassette on my road bike, should I replace the whole drivetrain?

texts: Relatively new to road cycling, have bought a 2nd hand bike and am thinking some parts of the drivetrain need replacing. Have tried to find this online and can't find any answers. Thanks!


texts:
I'm thinking of getting a new seat on my exercise bike

How can I ensure that the seat will fit?

Are there different types of fitting? How many types?

My one the bike seat involves 2 hexagonal bolts one on either side and it looks like it can slide if one is loosened, or turn if the other is loosened, and is still when both are tightened.  What type is that? And would any of that type fit?


texts: How to increase friction on a Shimano SIS+Friction rear shifter when it is in friction mode?

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I'm using some Dura Ace SL-7700 downtube shifters on my road bike. I bought them NOS.  The right (rear) shifter has the D-ring for switching from SIS to friction mode.  It's a bit strange that the user manual didn't include mention of the friction mode, and while the D-ring on the shifter itself does have the little triangle marker that points to "SIS" stamped on the lever, the lever doesn't have 'Friction" stamped a quarter-turn away like it does on my older 8-speed shifters with the same feature.  Yet, if I turn the D-ring a quarter-turn, just like with my 8-speed, I get friction mode.

However, I feel like the friction mode doesn't have enough friction.  The front (left) shifter has plenty of friction, and it is easily adjustable by turning the D-ring.  What do I do to increase friction on the rear (right) shifter if the D-ring is used to change between SIS and friction modes?


texts: Fork Failure on Vintage Steel Tandem Bikes - Any insights?

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I'm wondering if you guys can share any knowledge regarding fork failure on old steel tandem bikes.

I just bought a 1988 Santana Elan tandem. It's in beautiful condition. I contacted Santana to ask if they can give me any extra info on the bike, and they told me "replace your fork which is long past it's 10 year "best by" date. your bike NEEDS A NEW FORK TO BE SAFE TO RIDE."

I'm not saying I don't believe them, but surely they have legal and financial incentives to recommend I err on the safest side. I bought a used tandem to save money, haha, but I also want to make an educated decision. Any insights?

Could the fact that it's a tandem expose the fork to greater risk of failure? (2 people on only 2 wheels) On the other hand, you've got to figure that a tandem would have been ridden less over 30 years than a solo, so could that reduced usage give me better odds?

I'm planning to take this bike on our first ever cross-country tour. I'm trying not to be an idiot and risk a catastrophe out in the wild. Just how risky is riding on this 30-year-old steel fork (which seems to be performing well)?


texts: My second hand Hercules bicycle came with 10 gears. Two gears in the front and five in the back. The gearshift does not work well and since I cycle in the same gear all the time anyway, I consider turning it into a single-speed bicycle. Can I just remove the derailleur in the back and adjust the length of the chain? Any reason why I shouldn't do this besides the obvious fact that I will have less gears? Anything I would have to take care of?


texts: I have a woman's cruiser bike with pedal brakes only. Everything has been working great but when I took a bike ride the other day I was on a flat street and it was extremely difficult to pedal...why and what can I do to fix it?


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Often it is argued that an 8 or a 20 minute effort can be sufficient to estimate Functional Threshhold Power (FTP), an indicator of how many watts a rider can put out over the course of an hour (or 40 minutes, depending on who you ask).

For a 20 minute effort, it is often argued that a 5% reduction over the 20 minute wattage gives an accurate estimate of the maximum wattage for the 40-60 minute effort.

For the 8 minute effort, an additional 5% (for a total of 10%) is taken off the total wattage over 8 minutes.

My question is as follows: does the reverse also hold? Suppose I do an 80 minute test, or a 160 minute test, will a respective 5 or 10% increase in the wattage over that period be my FTP?