texts: What's the best way to repair a small hole in a tubeless mountain bike tire?

texts: I've seen some youtube videos but not sure which method is best.


texts: Wobbly splined cranks, yet bolts are very tight

texts:
I have a road bike with ISIS splined cranks.  I've been noticing front derailleur rub lately, and when I took a look, both of my crank arms are wobbly.  The retaining nut is very tight, so tight on the drive side that I can't even back it out.

The bike is an entry level bike equipped with Shimano Sora. Except for the crankset, which is an alloy crank from (Taiwan).

I checked the BB by seeing whether the wobble transmits to the other side, or to the crank axle.  It does not.  Each crank independently wobbles.  From what I've read, this implies that the crank splines are worn.

I am thinking the most conservative move is to replace the cranks and see what happens.  The most aggressive repair is to replace the entire crankset, including BB and chain rings.

Are there any options that I have missed?


texts: Out of necessity, I had to put an 1.26" (32mm) rear tyre on my bike where the front tyre is only 1.1" (28mm) wide (and the bike came with 1.1" tyres when I bought it). Are there any advantages or disadvantages of this, shall I try to get an 1.1" tyre for the rear wheel ASAP or is it safe this way?


texts:
On my new bike I can see two numbers stamped into the frame - one seven digits long and one eight digits long. There's also a serial number on a tag.

I'm attempting to register the Bike with the UK BikeRegister scheme, which asks for the frame number.

Which number is the right one to use?


texts: Does anyone make a dynamo light buffer battery that will keep it going at full power?

texts:
I have a nice SP dynamo hub and an old Supernova E3 Triple dyanamo light. However, the dynamo light isn't very bright when I'm starting my ride, as my ride has a long hill at the very start, so I don't go very fast. Then it's a lot of stop and go riding for the rest of my commute with a few more small hills. The standlight kind of sucks until I've been riding on a straight stretch for a while. Looking forward, I would consider buying new gear to help, but I'm not sure what I need (other than just only using battery powered lighting).

Basically, I want my bike to always have lights on while I'm riding through the winter months where I'm commuting both to and from work in the dark, and not loose lighting when I'm stopped or going slow on a climb (where I'm very venerable). Currently, I have to supplement having dynamo lighting with battery powered lights since the dynamo lights cut in and out due to my hilly commute with lots of stop and go urban riding.

Does anyone make an inline power buffer for dynamo based lights to provide (a) Immediate on when you want to start riding and (b) Constant power while stopped? Or are there lights or other equipment that provide this feature (without forcing me to build my own circuit boards and such)


texts: Why are there metal shavings in my brake pads?

texts: I have several brake pads on my cantilever brakes that have several small metal shavings embedded in the pad.  Is this normal?  What should I do about it?


texts:
Often guidance will be given to tighten a nut to "20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm)" or something along those lines.

What's the best way to ensure you tighten things up, but don't over-tighten?

Is there any way to do it other than by measuring the force?  If measuring, how do you measure?


texts: What is the axle thickness of the Kent Road Tech 700c bike?

texts: I need to know in order to find proper fitting anti theft nuts to keep the wheels from being stolen.


texts:
I'm reading on chain tensioning, the generic idea is that if the chain is too loose it will fall off, if it's too tight it will "bind".

I'm having an hard time understanding what "bind" means in this context. The best I could think of is that the teeth from the cog will be tight to the chain causing both teeth and chain to wear out more easily, but I couldn't find any proof.

These are the sources I was reading:

one is a question on Bicycles:

  The simple answer is, as Sheldon brown says, as tight as possible without binding.

Second is on Brown's blog:

  If the chain is too tight, the drive train will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding.


texts: Rounding spoke length calculator results

texts:
The spoke calculator gave me the following results left 292.34 and right 290.98.
I am going to buy DT Swiss Competition spokes which are sold by 2mm increments from here. So which spoke length is better to buy ?


texts: What is the difference between cheap and less cheap road bikes?

texts:
I am new to road biking. I have ridden mountain bike in school and have been away from biking for about 5 years now. Looking around online tells me that three categories (in terms of price):

Some real cheap ones, for example Vilano Aluminum Road Bike 21 Speed Shimano for $329.00 - $379.00
Medium range ones around $800, for example Diamondback 2013 Podium 3 Road Bike with 700c Wheels
And then very expensive ones.

I am planning to buy it for casual use (not for high speed). I would probably go ride in evenings for about 25 miles. Can somebody please suggest the differences in first two categories?


texts: Alfine shifter cable tension increases over time

texts:
I have a Shimano Alfine 8 hub. I am aware of the need to keep an eye on the shift cable tension, and readjust periodically to ensure that the alignment marks on the hub are lined up.

The strange thing is, over time (on the order of a couple of months or so) the cable tension seems to increase.

On other cable-actuated components (brakes on this bike, brakes, shifters on other bikes I've owned), the cable tension tends to loosen. Cable stretch and, on brakes, pad wear lead to a need to tighten up the cable a bit now and then, before eventually something needs replacing (whether the cable or brake pads or both).

Why on this installation, would I keep finding that the cable tension needs to be loosened periodically?

Is there some other explanation other than that I somehow am accidentally brushing up against the adjustment knob and routinely increasing tension, which then needs to be backed off periodically?


texts: Going to race a 29er MTB in a 200 mile / 320 km gravel race. Bike preparation?

texts:
I have a Specialized Camber Comp 29er full suspension MTB. I want to use this bike for the DK200 (a one day 200 mile / 320 kilometre gravel race through the Flint Hills of Kansas, USA) and would like to be reasonably competitive. I know, this guy is nuts.

That being said, I'm planning on gravel tires, bar end grips, possibly aero bars, bike sizing, and 'locking the suspensions'.
I understand I will be sacrificing weight and efficiency/torque with the longer chain stay and suspension flex, along with gears that aren't quite tall enough on the downhills and long straights. However, I just do not like the feel of the gravel bikes. They're too stiff and bone jarring, and just don't like the general feel when I'm on them. I'm thinking over the long haul on my full suspension bike, that my suspension soaks up a lot of the potholes, ruts and rough roads will pay off in the long run.

What else would you recommend that I do to my bike to properly prepare it? Any specific brand add-on pieces you'd recommend?

I am in good shape and currently outrun others on carbon gravel bikes on 45 mile / 72 kilometre rides on my stock MTB. I will be in excellent physical condition in 5 months when it comes race time. I do have some issues with my lower back and shoulders/neck area currently at a little over 45 miles / 72 kilometres, so needing to get more comfortable and in better shape.

I know this was lengthy, but much appreciate some expert advice! Ride on!


texts: When replacing wheel bearings, is there a standard or are they different for each type of bike

texts:
I have a claudebutler CapeWrath D24 (around 3 years old). My front (not sure about rear at this point) wheel bearings need replacing.  The wheel it has is a Rigida Zac2000.  I realize that some bikes now have hubs that have a case for the bearings that click on and the like, but mine seems to be more old fashioned / simpler.  Take the cone off and the bearings are greased underneath it.

Can I get a standard type of bearing or are there particular ones I have to use?

Is there a particular type of grease needed?  I have some White / creamy Teflon grease from wiggle, but not sure if this is the right sort of grease.

Should there be bearings all the way around?  On one side of the wheel there is a gap big enough for another bearing, the other side has bearings all around.  Can you buy single bearings or do they come in packs?


texts: Can I use brake pads for carbon wheels with aluminum wheels?

texts: I bought a bicycle with carbon wheels, and for training I purchased an aluminum wheelset. I have SwissStop brake pads. Can I use them with aluminum wheels? I don't care much if these pads wear out quickly (I am going to buy new pads for races) but I worry more about braking performance.


texts: It has '3f-2' stamped on the plates but I can't tell what the brand is. Thank you.


texts: Using a much heavier rear tyre than in the front

texts:
For the last 3 years I've been using light (800grams) tyres front and rear.

Since I've been having too many rear tyre pinch flats (tried everything: high PSI, tubeless, heavy duty tubes) I'd like to switch to a real double ply DH tyre for the rear which weights 1200 grams.

Is running a heavier tyre only on the rear suggested?
Or should I switch both front and rear at once? Maybe for bike balance issues while jumping etc?

p.s. I ride mtb all mountain and downhill


texts:
Should I use spacer on CS-7800 who is being installed on WH-7900 ?
Or just install the cassete without 0.5mm spacer ?

Cheers and thank you..


texts: what should my training schedule look like if I'm racing every sunday?

texts: I plan to do as many cyclocross races as I can until the season ends in early march and the next few weeks have at least one race every Sunday for the next six weeks. How should my training schedule look like after sunday, do I focus on recovery rides and mount and dismount until 72 hours after the event? Then move into had tabata style intervals on Thursday only return to recover style training mentioned about in the, or do I do it a day before on the Wednesday and enjoy a full 72 hour recovery before race day? Or am I doing way to little?


texts:
I have raced my Fort Bike for some time now. The head tube holding the forks has split /cracked open. What do I do now, who do I contact ?
Dennis


texts: Is it possible to tighten/replace my wobbly spider?

texts: I have a Shimano FC-M460 crank and the spider is starting to wobble a little. Is it possible to tighten or replace the spider? I can't figure out which tool I would need to order. Or should I just replace the whole crank & spider?


texts: Should I always ride on the designated bike path?

texts:
I just had my first ride last week end and I generally rode pretty much in a defensive way, I always followed the cycle paths, but to be honest I enjoyed much more riding on the street for 2 reasons related to the quality and construction of cycling paths:

cycling paths outside Berlin are weirdly thought, many times they are only on one side of the road and you have to stop and cross the street to get on it, then the side changes and you have to cross again;
they are full of bumps, irregularities, debris and so on and that makes it hard to keep a decent and constant speed;

I kinda know how's the regulation in Germany, you have to be on the cycling paths only when some symbols are shown on the street.

Probably I'm not the first one to think this and I'd like to know wow do more experienced people deal with it, in the end it seems it boils down to a matter of security vs riding on a more enjoyable road.


texts: Effective breathing for efficient cycling

texts:
It seems silly to say I don't know how to breathe, but I don't.  When doing weights, I know you exhale when you do the work part of the rep.  In Yoga similarly breathe out on the stretch.  Rock climbing too, when you pull yourself up breathe out.  The list goes on.  What on earth do I do for cycling.

Is it different for riding on flats or going up hill?

I am talking here about when a reasonable amount of effort is being put in, not necessarily racing or time trial but not exactly bumbling along either.  I remember when I was younger and did Cross country running at school we were taught to do two short breaths in and two out.  Does that apply here or is there something else.  I saw watching time trials no TV that some of the riders seem to ride with their mouth wide open.  I tried this and found that on hot dry days it really hurt my throat and lungs.


texts: App for displaying 30s rolling average power

texts:
I use a power meter without a dedicated cycling computer like Garmin or Wahoo, I prefer to ride with my phone on the handlebars.
I found a couple of cycle computer apps which can be paired with the power sensor, displaying some power data during the ride: Ride With GPS, Wahoo Fitness. However, they only display the momentary power data, which is very "jumpy" from second to second (plus some other stats like max 20s power, or average/normalized power over the whole ride).
Is there an app that allows the user to configure a rolling window of 5/10/20/30 seconds over which to average the power data? It would be much more useful for pacing oneself or training with power zones.
EDIT: I've accepted the answer about IpBike, because based on the description of its features it fits the bill. However I'd be grateful for more answers specifically for iPhone apps, not only Android.


texts: Tube compatibility for given tyre dimensions

texts: My tire says: 700x40c  40-622 , is the tube in the picture a perfect fit?


texts: I bought this 2 years ago from a man with a lot of bicycles. It has straight handlebars and the number HOL3 1703 at the bottom of the bike. Thanks for the help.


texts:
I have a Cannondale F2000 that I'm updating and turning into a gravel/commuter bike.

I replaced the original square taper bottom bracket with a new Hollowtech II version.
Now the new crank does not spin freely at all.

One thing to note, the crankset spindle is too long, but I don't see how this would make a difference to the whole thing.


texts: Difference between various Campagnolo rear derailleur tension adjustment screws

texts:
The rear derailleur tension adjustment screw on my 1997 or 98 Veloce 9speed bike is broken. The correct replacement part seems to be the Rd-At115 screw.

However, there seem to be at least two more such screws with part numbers RD-DA004 and Rd-Sr014.

Here's my question: What is the technical difference between these three screws (that seem to do the same thing)? Diameter (outer? inner?), steepness of the tread? Something else I've overlooked?

Also, if they are indeed different, what would be the reason to change the specification of this rather trivial part?


texts: I am going to be building a beach cruiser frame with 26" springer forks and 25" apehangers with a 1" headset. what is the difference between 5/32" x 16b and 3/16" x 15b, performance wise? Basically I would like to know if the size of the bearing makes any difference


texts: looking for Lightweight inexpensive children's bike (120cm) available in uk

texts:
I'm looking for Lightweight inexpensive children's hybrid bike (120cm) available in uk for my six year old son. It seems to me at this age they don't need fancy brakes or lots of gears but would really benefit from the bike being as light as possible. But the lighter bikes I've seen always come with the fancy brakes and gears and a hefty price tag.

Does such a bike exist ?


texts: I am always having a broken spoke once in every 500Km

texts:
I have a Giant Escape hybrid bike, which I bought as a secondhand bicycle. After I had bought it, once in every 500km, according to Strava records, I am always having a broken spoke in rear wheel. Yesterday, I got my sixth broken spoke and I have noticed the old spokes broken always, not the ones I had replaced.

I asked from a few repair persons but they just replaced the spoke without reasoning. Is there anything I can do to stop this? Because I think this is strange.

As you can see in this picture most of the broken spokes are on drive side. As I remember I heard sound of breaking when I tried to speed up quickly.

Most of the time the spokes break at the J Bend, not the nipple/rim.  They all broke in the rear wheel, none in the front wheel.  Most are on the drive side, and few are on the non-drive side.

I am more or less 85kg (187 pounds) who commutes 8km/5miles up and down (16km/10 miles daily) with, most probably, 2kg (4.4 pound/ 4lb7oz) bag. While riding I have to go on concrete roads, uneven terrain, for about 2km/2200 yards. Moreover, I used to ride more than 50km/31 miles on weekends.


texts: Does anyone know how to take apart this hub to do a single speed conversion

texts:
It's a 5 speed joy tech hub.
I've tried all but nothing seems to work.
Looks like the smallest driver is threaded.
Does anyone know how to remove it ?


texts: Some time ago I read about a project in which bike commuters tracked their paths in order to map then on-line and have a place to see the most frequent routes in their city. Do you know this or other similar projects?


texts: Can I use Danco waterproof grease sold for plumbing and faucets to lube seat posts and pedal threads?

texts: I have this tube of lube lying around, which is good for plumbing fixtures. If this is good enough, I don't have to go out to hunt for bike grease during shelter in place.


texts: Can BSA 68/73 bottom bracket be used in place of fat bike BSA 100 mm

texts:
I have a fat bike with SRAM GXP 100 mm bottom bracket. Except for the length of the plastic sleeve that connects two cups, it looks exactly like BSA 68/73 mm bottom brackets used on non-fat MTBs. I wonder if it is possible to use BSA 68/73 cups with this fat bike. The original longer plastic sleeve can be reused if necessary, because it barely gets any wear during exploitation.

This would greatly extend number of bottom bracket options compatible with my frame.


texts: Mavic wheels out of true after 200km, is normal?

texts:
I bought set of Mavic wheels, and today I noticed that the front and rear wheel is around 1,5mm out true after 200km of ride. Im curious whether it is normal.

I have pair of those


texts: Do tire / tube / valve combinations that don't leak air exist?

texts:
I'm not clear on why tire pressure decreases over time. I understand that air escapes through the tube. Possibly some leaks through the valve too? In any case, do tire / tube / valve combinations exist that will maintain a constant pressure over time?

Edit: From reading How long should a road tyre hold its pressure? I learn that air leaks through the tube material. I've changed the title in response - it originally applied to values only.


texts: Are road cranks less strudy than comparatevely priced MTB cranks?

texts: Road bikes are built to face different challenges than MTBs. Does this lead to difference in the crank strenght versus weight optimization? Will road cranks tackle to the occasional bump onto a stone on the trail?


texts: Special hub requirements for an 11-speed group

texts:
In a question earlier today (Changing cassette from 8 to 10 or 11 to meet the Shimano 105 5800 groupset) the Op asserts that they would need to change their hub, if they wanted to go from a 10- to 11- speed cassette.

I'm not very clued up on 11-speed systems, was wondering why this is the case? And, presumably, when they say "hub", they mean just the freehub body?

Or do they mean something else/more?


texts: Why not place the cleats further back on the foot?

texts:
I've found a number of articles saying there is no advantage in having the cleat under the ball of your foot as opposed to further back towards the arch. The reasoning is that the calf muscle is not suited for endurance efforts and shouldn't be overused while cycling.

  Most of a cyclist's power comes from the quads, glutes and hamstrings - the lower leg only connecting to the pedal and stabilising what happens above. It doesn't contribute enough to justify its energy expenditure. The idea is there will be more oxygen/fuel left for the bigger muscle groups. Side benefits include a reduction in the overall height on the bike for better aerodynamics and hopefully the elimination of my recurring Achilles tendinitis.

This really resonates with me, as I often get sore calves, even when I have positioned the cleat as far back as possible on my shoes.

Is anyone aware of any research or information supporting a more forward location for the cleat?


texts: quads feel over used while in an aero position

texts: I typically ride on the hoods, but I've been working lately on a more aero position.  When in the drops or using clip-on aero bars I find that my quads get fatigued much more than when I'm in a normal road bike position.  Is this normal and I just need to train more or am I missing something?


texts: Increase the height of my handlebars to reduce back pain

texts: I have an early 80s Trek 970 Single track that is an awesome bike, but as an older rider who doesn't ride trails as much, would like to ride in a more upright position.  The handlebars are for the most part straight across and am just looking for a way to increase the height of the handlebars to make the ride a little more comfortable.


texts: Which rear wheel axle does my “Citizen Gotham 7” folding bike use?


texts: How to define if brake pads suitble for carbon clinchers

texts:
I have Carbon Tubeless wheels ZIPP 404 Weaponary 10 speed, which I have bought on my used Pinarello Ultegra rim brakes.
Now I hear that Carbon wheels should / must have special brakes.

Question is: How do I determine if I have right brake pads? and

Is it MUST to be special pads for carbon, what if not?


texts: How do I test ride a bike that I'm looking at buying?

texts:
There are questions telling me what to look for in a new bike or a second hand one, and things to look for during my test ride, but nothing about what I should actually do during my test ride. That last question has been updated to say "What should I actually do on the test drive?" but the answers don't really address that.

I assume I need to make sure the brakes and gears etc all work, but how do I do that? Just change into each gear, or do so while pedaling hard? Should that even work? Is braking hard enough to lift the rear wheel a legitimate test? Is it reasonable to (say) ride each bike round the same 10 minute circuit as fast as I can to see which ones feel best at speed (assume I'm buying a fast road bike)?

What should I do for a 5-10 minute test ride on each bike I look at? What about a quick 30 seconds in a car park if that's all I can get?


texts: Could the E-bike drivetrain wear down till needing replacement after 400 km?

texts:
The drivetrain (chain? gears?) of my E-bike started to make loud clicking sounds, with the impression that the chain is skipping over teeth. The gear switching itself still works well.

I have tried to regulate the rear gear mechanism by adjusting the position screws but failed to make any improvement. The chain seems positioned properly.

I started to think, maybe some parts would require replacement. Could this possibly be for the bike that has been traveled only 400 km so far? It was rather cheap for E-bike from the other side, and on flat terrain it was mostly used on the same (fastest) gear.

Could some parts be already worn if low end? If so, which parts are likely to be?


texts:
I have a Scott Speedster 30 Aluminum bike 2016 with 10speed Shimano Tiagra
Flat pedals stock wheels...

I seek advice
What reasonable upgrades can I make and benefits

Thanks


texts: Ergonomics - road cycling on mountain bike

texts:
I am new to cycling and have recently started to bike to work.
The distance is about 20 kms each way and I find that by the end of it my lower back starts to hurt.
I do work at a desk job and I probably do already have a bad sitting posture; which I'm trying to correct.
I was wondering what is the proper posture to ride on a mountain bike comfortably for about 1 hour ride. Or if this lower back pain is due to my back simply not being strong enough to lift my upper body as I'm sitting on the bike.
I'm looking for rule of thumb tips such as your seat should be high enough so that your leg is just reaching the pedal at a full extension.
Thanks!!


texts:
I just bought my first bike with Shimano STI Shift/Brake Levers. So far, I really like the feel. I cannot, however, figure out how to tighten the brake cables. I can find the barrels for tightening the shifter cables on the side of the shifter, but the brake cables go under the grip tape on the handle bars.

Bonus question: The smaller shift levers on both sides don't like returning all the way to their resting position, and require a nudge to get them back. As far as I can tell, they are just rubbing against the larger shift levers. I assume this is normal and that once I use the bike a little they will spring back correctly?


texts: Biking against traffic on a one-way streets in Europe

texts:
My recent experience with new Google Maps shows that it constantly leads me against traffic on a one-way streets in Europe in general and in Poland (where I live) in particular.

Are there any laws or regulations for this?

I assume Google wouldn't set a track that would violate local laws. But, on the other hand, it seems quite unnatural for me to bike against traffic on a one-way street.

And recently I have found a typical one-way street with a typical one-way signs on both ends:

And each sign was additionally labelled with a special label saying "Bikes excluded", which would suggest that biking against traffic on a one-way streets is strictly prohibited unless otherwise stated.


texts: How rideable is the Long Island Expressway service road?

texts:
I am new to the NYC region, and just recently found out that the LIE even has service roads!  I was wondering how rideable the service roads are.

I.e. Can you actually get across the various interchanges on a bike?  (Clearly if cars are expected to merge back onto the highway to ride across the interchange then that is a problem on a bike.  Though I would be willing if the cops don't care...).

As part of this, I am curious how far the service road extends, that it is possible to ride.  If there are known areas with issues, are there workarounds known?


texts: New Cable Anchor Bolt for SunTour Accushift Edge

texts: I got a pretty good condition Trek 400 and it has SunTour Edge components. Unfortunately, the rear Accushift derailleur is missing a cable anchor bolt so I have no way of attaching a cable to it. Are there places where I can buy a replacement part for it or is my best bet to go to my LBS?


texts: Replacement crankset SRAM 3x for 10 cogs

texts: I recently changed the cassette/cogset and chain on my mountain bike (10 cogs, SRAM 2011 or 2012). The chain rings are worn out and when I stand on the pedals the chain slides pretty unpleasantly. To change more than one chain ring would cost me more than to buy a new crankset so I want to go for this option, however, I've got a fairly old unused crankset 3x for 9 cogs (Shimano Deore AFAIR). Will that crankset work with the 10x chain and sram shifter? If not, is a Shimano SLX 3x crankset for 10 cogs compatible with the SRAM shifter?


texts: Rollers for long-wheelbase/mountain bikes

texts:
I was recently made aware of the idea of bike rollers.  I do have an exercise bike, but this looks like it may be a much better bet because you get to practice your riding skills as well (and looks a bit more fun than an exercise bike!).  However, the guy in this video had trouble getting a mountain bike to fit, and when he did get it working, it really seemed to be shredding the rear tire quite badly.  If you look closely at the video, when he's using the MTB the front axle is forward of the front roller's axle so it's obviously not properly on the rollers.

Is the rear tire damage the guy in the video was suffering typical of rollers or is it because of a poor fit of the bike on the rollers?  Are there models of rollers that fit long wheelbase bikes better?

I have read that you can't use mountain bikes on rollers, but the reason given was the suspension causes the wheelbase to change as the suspension moves.  My bike is a hardtail with a lockable front fork so would this be suitable for rollers?

The wheelbase is approximately 108cm


texts:
Are there any advantages of presta inner tube valves over schrader inner tube valves (or vice versa)?

Presta

schrader

I've always wondered why 2 exist. Apart from their radically different design I don't understand why you'd choose one over the other.


texts:
I'm a bit baffled by the large choice of cycling waterproof jackets. Could someone recommend me a good budget waterproof jacket?

A bit more information:

I mostly ride off road
About £70 (approx 112 USD) is the    maximum I'm willing to spend
I'd like
to buy something I can wear all year
round


texts: My bike for 2 days started to squeal whenever I use my back brakes it has been really annoying and I am trying to fix it. Please give me any suggestion that can help this problem


texts: How to compare an IGH (Shimano Alfine 11) with a 10 speed cassette and 3x chainwheel?

texts:
I'm try to compare the gear ratio of a IGH (Shimano Alfine 11) with a 10 speed cassette + 3 chainring setup.

I read Sheldon Brown's gain ratio definition.

I went to Sheldon Brown's gear calculator

I entered all the numbers from my bike and got this result

Here is my interpretation:

The first column group with heading 0.53 (low) shows the gear ratio of the 10x cassette and 3x chainwheel. Example: The number circled green is 34 / 11 = 3.1 Which to me is the gear ratio (correct me if I'm wrong). That first column group tells me the highest gear ratio is 3.8 (e.g. when going downhill), and the lowest gear ratio is 0.7 (not on the screenshot, e.g. when going steep uphill). The IGH has highest ratio 2.15 (not on the screenshot) and lowest ratio 0.53. To me that means on uphills I'll have an easier time with the IGH than with the cassette. However downhills I won't be able to go as fast with the IGH than with the cassette. Is my interpretation correct?

What do the other column groups mean? Consider the column group with heading 0.68 ? Where does the number circled in red come from (because 34 / 11 not equal 4.0) ?

Also where do the numbers 0.53, 0.68, 0.77 etc come from. I know they are from the Shimano specs. Are they really the gear ratios? Aren't the sizes of the single rear sprocket and the front chainwheel (that are installed on the bicycle) required to calculate the gear ratio of the IGH setup?


texts: Does never using the easy front gear give a better workout?

texts:
I have a road bike with a 52/36 crankset. I make it a point to never use the easy gear because I think that it gives me a better workout when climbing hills. Another reason I don't use it is because the chain rubs on the front derailleur when going from the 36 on the front to the 12 on the back.

Is my theory of getting a better workout correct? Is there any good reason for me to not do this other than putting more wear on the gear?

There is only about 3 hills in my daily commute where I sometimes want to downshift into the easy gear.


texts: How to effectively hitch a bicycle with a scooter?

texts:
Background: I was getting back home from school one day but noticed the front tire of my cycle was deflated. The nearby shops were closed that day, and I had to walk nearly than two kilometers to get to the nearest cycle pump. The last time this happened, I manually walked that distance. But this time, one of my friends - having a scooter - offered me help.

Situation: My friend rode his scooter slowly, while I sat on the backseat of the scooter. The scooter is like this:

I held onto my cycle through the middle of its handle ("middle" = that part from where a rod extends downwards into the front tire). My left hand gripped the cycle handle at about my waist level height when sitting.

Problem: within thirty seconds of his starting to ride, my balance completely corrupted. He didn't stop the scooter and my cycle's front tire started spiraling. Ultimately, my left foot got entangled in the front spokes of the tire. The front tire did a 180 deg spin, the cycle fell (and I twisted my leg, but somehow saved myself from falling over my bicycle). I obviously want to avoid this from happening again.

My question: What is the most effective method to hitch my bicycle in this situation?


texts: Can small pebble inside tire puncture the tube?

texts:
Shortly after changing a flat in a dirt road near home, I got another one. This last tube got a very small puncture. Inside the tire I also found some small pebble (like 1mm or less in length), but no thorn or wire.

I wonder if this small gravel trapped inside the tire can puncture the tube?


texts: Recently damaged the rear derailleur on my old city bike - the derailleur is a Shimano integrated 6-7 SIS Max 28t - which is no longer manufactured. I can get a used replacement via ebay but was wondering whether something like a 6/7 speed tourney RD-TY500 would also work. Any thoughts?


texts:
When riding hands free, I am noticing my bike is more oriented towards a particular direction (In my case: left). I tried to check of what my problems might be:

I check the handles, if they were of equal lengths on both side
I also check, if my saddle was not straight.

I can't find out what is causing them. Please tell me, What are things, steps and techniques needed to balance a bike.

More Info:

The problem started after my last servicing.
I do use multiple bikes, and the orientation is not the same for both of them. So, my personal balance and weight does not affect this case.


texts: What physically makes chainrings have a specific speed compatibility?

texts:
Chainrings are sold as having a specific compatibility for only certain speed setups, some overlapping across many. What physically makes this the case?

From what I understand, 5/6/7/8/9 speed chains all have the same internal width, 3/32", and the only difference is the external width of the chain. Does this also extend through 10/11 speeds as well, or do they have smaller internal widths which would necessitate skinnier chain rings as well? Or is it the case that the external width just keeps shrinking?

IF the difference is only the external width, then it would seem the only compatibility issues would not be in the chainrings themselves, but the spacing in between each one. If it was too small/too wide a chain, the chain would hit the next chainring, and if it was significantly too large the chain may fall in between rings.

However, it would seem that you could use the same rings with a wider chain (9 speed rings with a 5/6/7/8 speed chain) if you put appropriate spacers between the rings, such as these. The opposite may be possible if you're willing to grid / mill the appropriate amount off the mounting pad.

What this would also imply is that with the right width spacers (and bolts that can accomodate them) you could always go down speeds with a given set of chainrings.

If that is not the case (say 11 speeds have a different internal width), then they might be too wide for the chain an you'd have to remove material near the teeth to make them fit inside the chain or conversely that you'd be wearing on less of the chain than you should so your chain wouldn't last as long.

Furthermore, some rings are marketed as 5/6/7/8 speed only, some 9 speed only, and some 5/6/7/8/9 compatible. Is this some sort of blending of the two specifications (the spacing being some compromise between true 8/9 speeds) or just that they're made for one but tested to work on the other (or just a marketing trick)?


texts:
I hear/read everywhere that if you can spend some extra money on the bike, buy better wheels. can someone explain for me why?
Is it because they are rotating or are there other comfort factors?
thanks


texts: What is the difference between a sidewalk and a mixed use path?

texts:
First off, I am normally the type to take a lane on my normal bike. However, I commute by train, and can only take a small folding bike with me. And on that thing, I am pretty slow (that also helps with not sweating!).

But there is one mile section of my commute that goes through a main artery of a neighborhood. Not a ton of traffic... but enough that I would prefer to take my slow bike off out of the lane.

On one side of the street is a typical sidewalk: concrete... about three feet wide and adjacent to the road.

On the other side is an asphalt path, about 4.5 feet in width, that mostly parallels the road (there are a few little twists... but only going around landscaping).

Yesterday, someone yelled at me that bikes were illegal on sidewalks (which is true). I ignored this person as I didnt feel like discussing it, but it got me to thinking...

What is the difference between a bike path (or mixed use path) and a sidewalk?

EDIT: If it helps at all, this is the specific example I was on. However, I was trying to keep this generic.


texts: Front derailleur adjustment question: what to adjust

texts:
I'm a bit confused about what's going on with my front derailleur (which is PROBABLY a Shimano Acera, but the bike is 13 years old and the name has long since rubbed off).  The chain has started rubbing against it when it's in a hard gear on the 3rd (largest) chain ring.  This is the 8th gear.

If I adjust the barrel adjuster until the chain just stops rubbing, then it will invariably rub in the 5th gear.  Previously, the bike was able to work without the chain rubbing until I got into the 3rd gear.  If the barrel adjusters aren't working anymore, what might be the issue?  Is it just a cable tension issue that's too far gone for the barrels to fix?


texts:
Is there some software doing this ?
No, I don't mean changing the type of an already imported 'workout' from service level. A 'service' being Strava, TrainingPeaks, Garmin Connect, etc.

Motivation

I'm using Garmin Connect's AutoSync to sync my workouts to bunch of services.
I would like to alter activity type (say: Ride→Run) of a fit file prior to  uploading to Garmin Connect, so I won't have to visit all the services and change the bloody activity type.

(I'm using Garmin Edge to track my runs too. It records every single activity as a 'Ride'.
I'm a cyclist running only occasionally, so no, I am not buying a running-dedicated device.)

Quick googling says, that writing a script doing this is doable in, like, 40min of time.
But maybe that would be reinventing the wheel.

Should be included in FitFileTools IMO.


texts: Why are disk brakes not completely round on the outside?

texts:
Why are disk brakes not 100% round? Why is the outside edge "rough"?

Here's a pic of what I'm describing:


texts: Rolling dismount: leg crosses over in front of you or behind?

texts:
When doing a rolling dismount, one foot stays on its pedal, the other has to cross over somehow. Would you suggest crossing over in front of you (while sitting, folding you knee to allow the cross-over) or behind you (standing on your pedal and extending the other leg out behind you to cross over.

Note: I don't mean to know which you prefer, rather which is safer/easier/quicker than the other, and why.


texts: Just bought an used xs specialized sirrus sport in great condition. I am 5'8 and just realized that is too small. Just wondering if there anything that I could to do to make it fit me? Got it today so I haven't try anything yet


texts: 66 yo female road bike rider needs advice on THE BEST CLIMBING components/groupsets available!

texts: I'm a  66 year old  female rider with a heart condition on a Waterford road bike, currently using Shimano Ultegra 6703 Triple 10 sp chainset-170mm 52-39-30T and find that since I've moved to the Smokies, it isn't enough. I love riding and don't mind changing out ALL of my components if necessary in order to climb without stressing my heart. Would it make sense to swap it all out for mountain bike gearing? Move to SRAM components? Other???I LOVE cycling...but want THE lightest and easiest climbing components available. Please help!!!


texts: Bike Fit for 5'3" (1.60m) woman, 47 or 51 cm?

texts: My issue is that I have a 51 cm Cervelo, but the reach is too far. I've tried changing out handlebar stem to shorter/angeled, spacers and smaller handlebars. That helped some, but still a little too far reach for comfortable longer rides. I want to get a 47 cm frame with same changes I made for the 51 in order to have less reach, but the bike shop says that the reach will only be one cm shorter, and the handlebars will be two cm down. So effectively the reach will actually be more. That doesn't make sense? And the bike shop does not have any 47 cm bikes in shop.


texts: I lost a ball bearing today. Is it okay to go to a hardware store and pick up a general 1/4 in. steel plain ball bearing to replace it? Performance is not a concern, only longevity of parts.


texts: Tiagra lever extremely stiff on new bike

texts:
I bought myself my first real bike (Conway GRV 600) three weeks ago and was pretty happy with it. My GF decided she wants one too and got herself a Canyon Endurance Bike (cheaper than mine but same Tiagra group). Upon trying out her shifting I noticed that hers is extremely easy to use whereas on mine I have to apply quite a lot of force and by quite I mean like a ton more. With hers it's possible to go like click click click with an easy hand move, whereas on mine I sometimes struggle to get even one gear up at a time. When I originally got the bike I didn't know that it was not supposed to be like that, however now that I have something to compare, the differences are striking.

Some facts :

The bike was new but sold to me with a 20% discount on the retail price
I have ridden for around 400km since I got it, almost exclusively on roads and always in the dry - so I think my cables should be fine
shifting up the cassette with the rear derrailer (that is into easier gears) is what requires a lot of force, going down the cassette is really easy and fast on both bikes

Any suggestions what this could be caused by? Is it due to different cable routing, or might it be that the bike has been sitting too long somewhere and the tension on the cables is bad?


texts: What's this linchpin on hydraulic brakes

texts:
I just got a new bike with SRAM Level Hydraulic disc brakes. After riding it home, I noticed both the front and rear brakes have a silver linchpin holding something in place. It almost looks like it's holding the pads in place, but also kinda looks like it's supposed to be removed.

Can someone tell me what this pin is doing, and was I supposed to remove it before riding the bike? If I'm not supposed to remove it, in what maintenance scenario would I ever remove it? If I was supposed to remove it, is it possible I've done damage by riding with it in place?

Thanks.


texts: How to use Windstopper gloves most effectively?

texts:
The Cold hands due to cold/wind question had a number of good recommendations, including using gloves with Windstopper branded material. My ski gloves are worn out so I purchased this silk weight Windstopper pair of gloves (WARMER - not WARMEST or WARM) last week to see if it could measure up to ski gloves.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VN86J6

They did not even come close. Commuting between 17-25 MPH on an electric bike in pedal assist mode (high cadence, low effort) at 50 degrees or so for 20 minutes, my hands are cold, and do feel the wind a little. My 10 year old thick ski gloves are much warmer. The upside of this pair of Windstopper gloves is that my fingers are fully mobile, as compared with my thick ski gloves which reduced finger dexterity to the point where it reduced reaction time for shifting and ringing the bell.

This morning I tried using regular bike gloves worn under the Windstoppers, and that at least kept my palms warm, but fingers were still cold.

What is the best way to use Windstopper-based gloves. Do they require liners to be effective?. If so, which brands/models are appropriate for which temperatures?


texts: Product selection help: wheelset for vintage(ish)steel roadbike

texts:
I have an 80's vintage Peugeot steel frame that I'm gradually trying to upgrade.

I'm thinking about improving the wheels and originally thought a set of Mavic Aksiums would be a nice upgrade. Problem is, it's not really the right era of component for such a bike, although I think compatibility shouldn't be too much problem...

I have also considered getting a set of wheels built that might look a bit more at home on the bike - Mavic Open Pros on a Shimano hub - (600 tricolours if I can get hold of some, modern 105s if not - they are just silver and quite plain looking so shouldn't ruin the look too much). Trouble is the second option is looking like minimum £230 for the set while the Aksiums can be have for £140.

My question is what would you recommend? Is the performance difference between the 2 options significant (not that this is ever going to be a competitive bike!)

Current wheels are a crappy £30 shimano road wheel on the back (original died) and the original maillard hub wheel on the front (which is actually pretty light but has a poor braking surface)


texts:
I'm struggling to remove the cranks from my bike. I have a 2005 or 2006 Trek 2100 road bike with Bontrager Race cranks (triple chainring, marked "9 Speed" and "ISIS Drive"). It appears that the crank bolt is flush with the edge of the crank, with no dust cover. It takes an 8 mm hex wrench.
I've put a good deal of force on both crank arms without it budging. Is it just a matter of putting enough torque on it, or am I missing something? Are either of them reverse threaded?


texts: Would a Shimano 105 R7000 left side crank fit on an Utegra 6800 crankset?

texts: I'm looking at getting a left side crank power meter and was wondering would the various shimano left cranks available with power meters fit with the existing Ultegra 6800 crankset I have? The 105 or even dura ace. Thanks


texts: Turning right but can't see cars coming (UK)

texts:
I'm a newbie to cycling and I was wondering if I done the right thing or I should do something different next time.
I'm coming down towards a main road where I can either go left or right. I want to go right. Both sides are packed with parked cars. I can see there's no cars coming to the left of me but can't see to the right of me. I couldn't hear a car coming up either. I look left and decide to slowly roll out while standing up on pedals. As I'm rolling out I'm looking right and then see a car coming at me (electric taxi). Not really close but still I thought I better get across quickly just to avoid any incident, so I pedal across and feel car come quickly past me.
I should normally hear cars but I didn't this time. I didn't really enjoy not 100% knowing a car was coming up the road and having to quickly pedal across. Did I do the right thing by slowly rolling/edging out?
Sorry for newbie question just wondering if I should have maybe got off bike and looked on foot or something.


texts: Torn. Want to support LBS but they don't carry what I really want

texts:
I live in a small town with one bike shop.  It is a good shop that I like a lot.  I am riding an bike that I built 15 years ago but I take it there and spend money on parts and maintenance.  I bought my kids 20" there.  When I can afford the bike I want to replace my bike I will almost certainly buy it from them.  But now I want to buy my elder son a 24" bike.  He is not a really powerful, aggressive rider.  The trails around here involve a lot of climbing.  I really think he would benefit from having a light bike.  There is one bike company that makes really light kids bikes (24" bike  <20 pounds).  The lightest 24" bike from the LBS is closer to 27 pounds.  That is a pretty big difference for somebody that weighs 65 pounds.

I'm just curious about how other people feel about situations like this and what they might do.


texts: Should I repack the hub bearings on new wheels with quality grease?

texts:
The wheels in question are inexpensive ($100/pair) alloy wheels.

If the answer is "yes", do you have an recommendations for grease? Currently I'm using "Finish Line Grease with Teflon" for most of my lubrication needs.


texts: What cause and cure for tense or cramped stomach muscles?

texts:
I recently restarted cycling to work. I did four round trips. After riding back from the fourth trip, my stomach muscles started to tense and cramp.

I heard that stretching before and after a ride, as well as remaining hydrated, could prevent this. Is there anything else I could do to prevent cramps? I intend on riding four days next week too because of the lively feeling I gain from cycling.

EDIT

There is nothing abnormal about my medical circumstances.

I ride 9mph on average in one direction (using cycle paths rather than roads) and slightly less coming back.

A one-way trip is under four miles.


texts: Is there a way to rest at an intersection without (partially) dismounting the bike?

texts:
I have seen this done, and it probably has a name or another way of describing it that I have not thought of, but I cannot find information about it on the internet.

When stopped at an intersection, some cyclists will turn their front wheel to the side, and it seems to help them stay on the bike while the bike is not moving forward. Unless I'm imagining things.

I'd like to know how to do this, how it works, etc.


texts: My brake lever is coming loose from my handle bars; how can I tighten it?

texts: I have a road bike with drop bars, and the left brake lever is slightly loose - it can rotate a few degrees around the handle bar from side to side. How can I tighten it? Is it possible to do so without unwrapping the handle bars?


texts: 2018 Tour De France - schedule with start times?

texts: Is anybody aware of a source for a 2018 Tour De France schedule, including start times?  I can find many sites that have the schedule per day but none seem to include the start times for each stage.


texts:
Today my front wheel got flat. I took it for repair and when I went back home cycling it was very hard.  It felt so heavy and that was not normal for speed 4, when I changed down to speed 3, 2, 1 it was also spinning slowly and feeling so heavy. I stopped the bike and spun both wheels, the front new wheel was spinning very slowly; almost not moving and the back older wheel was spinning fine and fast, so I realised there was a problem with the new wheel. I would like to know what the technician did wrong?  How can it be fixed?

I want to know because when I go back to the bike shop I wish to be aware of what has happened so he doesn't fool me.


texts: Does Enduro make a ceramic hybrid wheel bearing kit for WTB Laser Disc Lite hubs?

texts:
I would like to replace the bearings in my front and rear WTB Laser Disc Lite hubs. I'm interested in upgrading the OEM steel bearings to a ceramic hybrid. I've hear that Enduro is a quality manufacturer of ceramic hybrid bearings.

So, does Enduro make a ceramic hybrid bearing replacement kit for WTB Laser Disc Lite hubs?

I was unable to find any information on Enduro's site (http://www.endurobearings.com) or on other sites selling Enduro wheel bearing kits.

Please provide information on part numbers and where to buy.


texts: My chain appears to be squeaking when I ride it forward but not backwards

texts:
At first I thought I just needed to lubricate my chain, so I degreased it and just re-lubed it very thoroughly.  It's still squeaking.  I thought it could maybe be a derailleur pulley issue, but I noticed that the squeak only occurs when the chain is pulled forward and not when it freewheels backwards.  Is there any condition that would cause a chain/pulley/whatever to squeak in only a single direction?

I understand that torque load can sometimes be a factor, so I tested it by pedaling with minimal (near-zero) force and it still squeaks in only the forward direction, so it doesn't seem to be affected by heavy load vs. light load.

The only change I have made recently was that I took out and regreased my derailleur pulleys, but they were fine for about a week until today when it was lightly raining in the morning.  It seems plausible that the rain somehow messed up my pulley greasing, but I don't understand why it would be a unidirectional problem.

Thank you to anyone who gives me suggestions or ideas or whatever.


texts: What kind of convex washer goes on the brake pads?

texts: I forgot to tighten up my brake pads before I went for a ride today, and I lost the convex washers when the nut came loose? Could anyone tell me where I could find replacement washers for the brake pad? I checked at lowes and attempted to google them, but I have no idea how these washers are sized.


texts: Why don't brakes come with 'Safety Levers' any more?

texts: It used to be very common to see bikes with dual pull brake levers (if that's even the right name) as shown below. However now it seems almost impossible to find brakes like this.  Even finding a picture to post was hard.  It seems like it would be quite useful to be able to brake from various hand positions.  There was an answer I read a while back (can't find it now) that stated that there was a reason they got rid of those, but no explanation as to why. So any technical reason, or is it just for looks?


texts: Is it normal for a fixed gear bicycle's rear wheel to slip forward in its dropouts from time to time?

texts:
My fixed gear bike has a track fork with a chain tensioner, and uses Pitlock's solid axle nuts to secure the wheel in the dropout, though I had similar issues with the stock nuts.

After tightening the nuts with a torque wrench to the 260-390 inch-pounds recommended by Park Tools, the wheel appears secure, and will typically be fine for weeks at a time.

Inevitably however, the rear wheel slips forward on the drive side, perhaps by 0.5-1cm. This produces considerable slack in the chain, though it's usually still ridable in the short term.

My guess is that this is happening under sudden braking, which I've heard can cause slippage when the nuts are insufficiently tight. Indeed, I usually notice it after having to stop sharply somewhere along the ride.

Is this normal, or an indication that the torque specification I'm following is incorrect? If normal, is this preventable with some maintenance (for instance, is it caused by gradual slippage?). If it's not normal, what's the cause? Are there perhaps different torque specs for a fixed gear bike?


texts: How do I change the rear tire on old Raleigh "Tourist" 3-speed

texts: Never changed the rear tire on this bike. How and what is loosened to remove the rear wheel so the tire can be changed?


texts: Can you put disc brakes on road forks originally intended for calipers?

texts:
I've decided I want a disc brake, at least on the front, which seems a good enough reason to go bike shopping, but am I overlooking the possibility of fitting a cable pull disc brake to my current bike?

I've been using a ten year old road bike as a commuter.  It has carbon front forks with road caliper/rim brakes and integrated Shimano road brake/gear levers.


texts: Shimano Sis Bar-end Shifters on a Shimano Deore xt derailleur

texts:
Rebuilding an original fisher MTB, with drop bars and bar end shifters.

I was wondering if I am going to run into any compatibility problems if I run this with a Shimano Deore Xt derailleur system.

Also I am wondering what type of chain would be best to use?


texts: What would be a good bike for urban commute? (3-4km)

texts:
I have been riding bicycles for quite a long time now, but have never done it on city roads. Instead, I have been riding a rented bike in a park which has specific bike lanes (the same size as the car lane) and doing laps (it has sealed roads).

Now I want ride for my commute, but have no experience riding on roads with other cars.

I'm going to be buying a bicycle, but have no idea where to start looking. Here are my ideal features / requirements:

Somewhere below $600 USD (but the cheaper the better)
Good for riding on city roads and in traffic
My commute would be about 3-4km, I don't know if that changes anything
Safe
Fairly good for riding up hills (I live in quite a hilly area)
Hopefully still fun to ride

Is anybody able to give me some recommendations, pointers in the right direction or specific types / features to look into?

One time I was at somewhere hiring a bike and I really liked it, I'm fairly sure that it was an Avanti Giro F1, so possibly something similar?

Thanks and sorry for my newbie question, hopefully it isn't too broad ;P

P.S. I'm male


texts: As recumbents are low to the ground and hard to see, how to you use one safely on a normal road?

texts: My wife thinks that she can't use a recumbent on the roads, as a car driver will not be able to see it.  What’s the solution?


texts: Lightweight aluminum frame transported via trunk rack

texts:
I've been riding steel for a while now and recently added a CAAD10 to the fleet. I am planning on taking it with me on our upcoming vacation.

I have a Thule gateeway 2 (trunk rack) that I've been transporting the steel bikes on very happily. My question is, should I be concerned carrying the lightweight aluminum frame in such a manner?

I brought the bike home from the shop initially this way and I felt that I had it secured on there without placing too much undue pressure on the frame itself. However, that was a short 5-10 mile transport.

Update: I have found it and included here. Upon re-inspection, I see that it says "not recommended" for either, but "do not use" is for CF.

"hAnGeR RACk
On this type the bicycle hangs on two arms projecting aft from a trunk mounted rack: Not recommended for either carbon or aluminum bikes. Do not use on bikes with carbon fiber tubes. The point loading where the arms contact the underside of the tubes may crack the tubes. Additionally the lower part of the bike is difficult to secure, and it may move, causing chafing and structural wear. Additionally when two bikes are mounted on these racks the contact points between the bikes may be cracked or chafed, causing structural damage."

PDF here page labeled 101 (103 of PDF)


texts: Campagnolo Athena - Lost plastic part on front derailleur. Now the chain is droping on upshifting

texts:
Somehow the plastic part on the side/front of the derailleur is lost. Now I can't shift properly because the chain drops to the outside on an up shift.

The plastic part is visible in this image. Its the black thing.

Is there a spare part available or is this a warranty case?


texts: My bike rim is 27.5x1.90 is it possible to fit a 27.5x2.2 tire on it?


texts:
I look at the different wheels online (road bikes).

What makes a wheel faster than another wheel?

Often they have the same number of spokes, size, weight etc..

What I'm trying to get at is, how do you know which one will be faster or better?

Thanks.


texts: Last year, I installed carbon bars on one of my mountain bikes and I'm finding them too wide. I've been told that taping over the points you're going to cut at will prevent fraying/roughness, but what type of hacksaw blade should you use? Any other tips?


texts: Coaster brake suddenly not working (Nexus 3-speed hub)

texts:
My girlfriend took her bike out for a spin and noticed the coaster brake wasn't working at all. Instead of braking it just back pedals, not like a free hub, but if you back pedal the bike actually moves backwards.

While I know quite a bit about racers/time-trial bikes, I have no idea how to fix this. Does anyone here know what I can check/do to fix this?


texts: Brake lever pulls straight in to handle bar and brake not working, have tried putting more fluid in but it’s still not working,has anyone got any ideas?


texts:
I thought that all 700c/622 wheels were "29er" compatible or basically the same size; 622mm.

I had the tire off a Mavic Aksium wheel yesterday and was surprised that it is labeled 700c 28''.

Is this a 29er compatible wheel? Is 28'' meant to be the approximate outside diameter on a road tire, and 29'' the approximate diameter of a mountain tire, or am I misunderstanding?


texts: Is there any other size tires that will fit on a 27 x 1 1/4 rim?

texts: I live in a city with plenty of cycling shops, but they are all out of 27 x 1 1/4 tires. Each shop gives me a different answer about the possibility of using a different size of tire. Can I fit a different size onto an old 27 x 1 1/4 rim?


texts: How much water flies forward to the drivetrain

texts:
Due to the rainy weather and my daily commute, I've decided to invest in some SKS Raceblade fenders. The fenders extend only just past vertical of the axle, and so I wonder about how wet I/my drivetrain can expect to get from the remaining exposed tire.

Has anyone looked at this carefully/experimented with the amount of water coming off the tire at different angles/speeds? I would assume that most of the water stays near the ground, and incrementally less water goes around the frame.

What I'm trying to understand is whether I need to buy another fender to block water that will hit my drive train, or if so little will be present by the time it gets past the fender that it won't really matter.

I've uploaded a photo to illustrate my question.


texts: Can I swap a 29er fork inplace of a 27.5 if I maintain close to the same axle to crown length?

texts: I am looking for some verification of thought process. I have come across a nearly new lower level Diamonmdback 27.5" hardtail MTB. The issue is the front 100mm fork is broken. Doing some online searching for a replacement fork has OEM budget forks (SuntourXCT) for roughly half of the bikes original cost. I can however purchase a 29er fork(Rockshox xc32) with some deep discounts for less than the Suntour. I realize the longer dropout to crown length of the 29er (19 1/4" vs 17 1/4" for a 27.5) will alter the handling. If I got an 80mm 29er fork, that difference would be cut in half. My thinking is that the 1" difference in length would be similar to the difference of the fork length when set to "soft" dampening  versus "firm" dampening while static.


texts: Any tricks to disassembling an Easton R4 rear hub?

texts:
We're looking at a Raleigh (very) lightweight bike with Easton R4 hubs on it.

The rear (apparently part # HD10M1732 on the hub) has a broken spoke on the non-drive side.  To access the spoke ends we must remove the cone-shaped piece (#2 in the diagram) on the non-drive side.  I got the thing most of the way apart but couldn't get the end cap (#1) off.

Before I apply a bigger hammer (uh, I mean wrench) to it I wanted to make sure this piece comes off as a standard right-hand thread.  Thinking about it, one would observe that the twist on the main shaft (#6) is clockwise, as seen from the drive side, so, viewed from that direction it imply a "standard" thread.  But precession would imply the opposite.  However, I don't see how precession could be a factor here.

Has anyone here ever taken one of these apart?

Summary of findings:

All threads (on this version of the hub) are "normal" right-hand threads.
The non-drive-side end cap (#1) and cone-shaped preload adjuster (#2) are both threaded onto the same threaded section of the axle (#6).
Assuming that the preload adjuster can be adjusted, the "handedness" of that end of the axle can be double-checked by observing which way the preload adjuster moves when you twist it.
The whole thing (other than the sprocket cluster) comes apart with allen wrenches -- both end caps and both ends of the axle have a hexagonal interior, to accept an allen wrench.  (The sprocket cluster uses a conventional cassette tool, which is not needed to access the spokes or bearings.)
The only non-allen wrench you need is the (larger than normal) cone wrench (19mm?) for the preload adjuster.
But note that the wrench you need for the drive end of the axle is quite large -- I'm thinking it was 6mm.
To remove the non-drive-side components you'll probably need to first remove the drive-side end cap and use the large allen wrench in the end of the axle.  Though you could get lucky and have the non-drive-side cap come off first when you first twist both caps.


texts: What's the best strategy to preserve vintage headset life?

texts:
I recently purchased a complete Dura Ace 7400 set (8 speed, downtube shifters so 7402 parts) with the 7400 headset as well. It's the improved one with the silver race and not the gold one prone to bearing brinneling. So far, I haven't noticed any problems in the races. The headset came with the original bearing retainers  (7400 was races or loose ball, 7410 is cartridge).

When vintage headsets do have brinneling, it's recommended to replace the retainers with loose balls to give the headset a second life. In order to keep my headset races functional for the longest time, should I put new bearings in the retainers and install, and then in many years when I need a headset servicing replace those retainers with new loose bearings; or should I skip right to packing new loose bearings now and potentially a second time in the distant future? (The retainers will live in my toolbox so I can have it be "original.")

I've heard people recommend rotating your headset races as a potential solution to mitigate bearing brinneling. Is this relevant or helpful in this situation?

The frame is made by Stowe in the late 80s. While not very historically significant, it's a vintage piece  I want to preserve and keep in good condition. I will probably not ride it in regular rain or any races. I'm a pretty gentle rider and weigh 145 pounds.


texts:
Did bicycle road racing always have teams? Were the early road races competed by individuals who were racing for themselves?

At what point was it realized that having a team would confer huge strategic advantages?


texts: Safety of lateral (flexible) flags to prevent cars from passing too closely and signaling

texts:
A problem that I'm always confronted when cycling, especially in steep climbs where there is no or insufficient roadside, are cars passing too closely. Usually I would position myself more close to the middle of the lane, but the speed incompatibility it's just too large and drivers aren't very educated where I live.

A idea that I had is a simple semi-flexible foldable pole on the left side of the bicycle that I could put on those situations, so it would "force" drivers to pass with a larger distance. Of course it would have some kind of reflective flag or, even better, a strong LED (as the flag would offer more wind resistance, and the LED would show up better at night), and it would have to be flexible enough for not knocking me over when someone hits it.

Of course that already exists (safety/flash flags), although is not very common. But the "mind storming" was still nice.

For illustration, the "right" way to do it and how it would be done with a flag (that blue thing is the cyclist):

Another problem that I face sometimes is when I'm cycling on the roadside but then there is a new lane that turns to the right. My options are keep going on the roadside (and later on the new lane), but it would make the drivers turn abruptly in front of me (or over me), as they might think that I will turn too (and that is a reasonable idea). My second option is to enter the right (now middle) lane, but the speed mismatch (and the need to position myself close to the middle of the lane) doesn't allows it. The flag would make the second option easier, and it would tell drivers that I'm not going right. For illustration:

My question is the following: Will it be useful, and will it be safe? Is there any other option? The idea is to retract (fold) it always when not using, and not to use it when cycling in group, so it wouldn't bother other cyclists. And is worthy to mention that the roads I ride have a 50 mph limit (although speeds up to 60 mph are common).


texts:
I'm currently designing the "electric bike of my dream" (please do not laugh! it's for fun, nothing serious), and I came up after some though with a tricycle, where 2 rear wheels are supporting the battery and cargo weight, and a suspended front part for the rider.

The simplified kinematic of the bike is the following:

The link between the front part (in blue and red) and the rear part (in orange and green) would be made by two rotations: R1 for suspension, R2 to be able to move the front part sideways when making a turn. The rear part is supposed to stay vertical (well, more or less perpendicular to the road anyway).

My question is about the suspension part, and its influence on the "rideability" of the bike. I was thinking of putting two suspensions (SL and SR) to provide some positive "feedback" on R2 when making a turn, and to make the front part stay vertical when parked. On paper this looks nice, but I was thinking that this may be a problem when:

the road has potholes, or when crossing some curb sideways: the front part (and the rider) will experience some disturbing force sideways;
when making a turn the behavior will not be exactly the one of a normal bike as you need a stronger push to tilt the front part.

The feedback force and behavior would depend on the choice of d and h as seen on the diagram (h can be made negative if needed).

Another (probably simpler) solution is to only have one suspension in place of SL and SR, w/o any "feedback" couple.

What would be better in your opinion? Does a small feedback for R2 would render the bike not rideable?

As a bonus some "artist" views to get the whole picture (on the rear view you see only one suspension):


texts:
I have bought myself a Shimano Deore M592 set without shifters.

I am now in the process of getting them as well but am not sure if I can put any 3/9 speed shifter on it.

Do I only need to take care of this or is there something else I have to watch for when choosing shifters?


texts: Novatec Hub D041SB and Novatec Hub D042SB What's the difference?

texts: I dont understand what is D041SB and D042SB can someone explain to me?


texts:
I am getting hip pain (both sides) when climbing hills out of the saddle. I am conscious to not choose too higher gear to get my cadence right but I end up back in the saddle spinning as they get so sore. Any thoughts? My quads are fine and when I use the spin bike to practice out of the saddle, this doesn't happen.
Happy for any help as training for a short triathlon and need to get my riding right.
Thanks in advance!


texts:
Having some problems with my seat. I have a Cube Analog Disc 2012 bike. After only 100km, the seat started creaking. I sent it back to the shop and received a brand new seat instead. But unfortunately, after another ~200km, the seats started creaking softly, but I believe that in a few days, the irritating creak from the first seat will come back.

It's worth mentioning, that the creak comes from right under the seat, from the plastic that sustains the fabric; right between the front and rear supporting points. Also, I have only 66kg, so weight is not the problem.

I've included a photo so things would be clearer.

Has anyone stumbled upon this issue? What should I do? I believe it's not a solution sending the seat back for replacement once every two weeks...


texts: I was wondering if this was a good derailleur, found a specialized bike on Craigslist with this on it.


texts: Missing a part from an internally threaded steer tube

texts: I recently obtained and then disassemble a Kink Co. BMX. It had a threadless headset. Unexpectedly, instead of having a star nut inside the fork's steer tube, the steer tube was internally threaded (threaded on the inside) and something screwed in. I lost that "something" and have no recollection of what it looked like. What am I working with here? I have never seen a fork like this. I obviously need to replace a part, but can't without any names whatsoever.


texts:
Recently I installed an 11 speed cassette and shift levers on my road bike (105 R7000), but I kept the 10 speed chain that I have.

It sort of works fine but on the third cog on the back the chain hops and skids even if I fine tune with a barrel adjuster.

Is it because a 10 speed chain is not compatible with an 11 speed cassette?

Should I buy an 11 speed chain?


texts: Is it ever legal in the USA not to have two brakes on a bike?

texts: When using a bike on a road in the USA, is it ever legal not to have separate brakes on the front and back wheels?


texts: i fitted a set of cheap "thin" (racing bike size) rims with 32 mm tyres. the fork allows even bigger tyres to be mounted. is it a problem if i fit the bike with Deore LX v-brakes ? will it brake decently ? and what handles would u recommend?


texts:
What is the purpose of "whipping" a mountain bike during a jump? Is it merely a trick (show off) or is it a functional move with a purpose? It is very commonly seen in videos which made me wonder if there is a useful function to it.

By "whipping" I mean the motion you can see during jumping in the 30 or so seconds starting here:

A screenshot from the video:


texts: Don't judge me as stupid just yet, I'm not sure if mine's a tubular or tubeless tire but everyone says tubular tires are glued to the metal wheel. However, mine isn't. It consists of a smooth, inflatable tube inside, covered by a rough, durable cover. There is absolutely no glue used so I'm pretty confused. The way it stays on the wheel is because the wheel has a rim that keeps it from falling off. If it helps, by bike is a GMC Denali with 700C wheels. Please help, I really have no idea.


texts:
My wife and do a lot of urban riding - mostly on bike lanes - and usually we don't wear a helmet for these rides. But I'd like us to start, and I'd like to get her a nice helmet, one that doesn't look like a standard bicycle helmet. I found a couple of companies that make the sort of thing I'm considering - for example - Yakkay, Nutcase or Lazer. Other than being more expensive, do these helmets have serious drawbacks? We live in a pretty hot, humid climate, so ventilation is definitely a concern.

Some clarifications:

I want to point out that even though I described it as "hot and humid" here, lots of people - probably a sizable minority - do ride with helmets. I ride with one on the longer rides, but I have a habit of skipping it for the short urban ones. The two of us agree, in principle, about wearing a helmet, but I think she'll be much happier starting with something pretty.

Here is Tel Aviv, by the way.


texts: Over-locknut dimension (hub distance) (cup depth) changed after 10.000km

texts:
Recently I wanted to replace my bearings and spotted something strange.

My Over Locknut Dimension has reduced by 7mm.

You can spot the difference when you compare it to the new hub:

Can this happen if the bearings are set too tight?

Old cup is obviously damaged:

Also one very important fact, my quick release axle was broken :) :

So I wanted to know what is the main reason that caused the OLD reduction by 7mm? Did anyone else had similar experience?

Hub model: QUANDO KT-A12R / QR Type for Freewheel

EDITs

Dimension that I'm referring to is the "M" according to this image

Inside distance(edit) of the hub is reduced by 7mm (non-drive side bearings - drive side bearings). Depth of the cup has increased by 7mm.

OLD with the original hub is 135mm.

If I use the same spacers O.L.D for the used hub is ~128mm.

O.L.D measurement

BTW I am heavy guy - 105kg, 2m tall, that explains axle breakdown :)


texts: Why are battery-powered lights so popular?

texts:
Both on this site and "in real life", battery-powered lights appear to be at least as popular as generator-powered lights.

I have always been slightly confused by this. To me, a generator-powered light seems the better solution if you need light regularly, because there's no need to worry about charging, and because they can be permanently attached. Yet many people seem to not only prefer battery-powered lights, they appear to not even consider a generator.

Why is that so? What are the advantages to battery-powered lights?


texts: Can a regular diamond frame bike be packed to fit as standard airline carry-on luggage?

texts:
I've been looking into possibly taking my bike with me on planes as carry on (not checking in). This is for (i) avoiding the extra cost of checking in oversized luggage and (ii) avoid breaking any parts during checkin.
So I got searching and of course I found lots of information on "foldable" bikes such as Bromptons that seem to fit over-head compartments (link):

So I got curious, can regular diamond shaped bikes also be packed in such a way?
Some more search I found ways to disassemble them and pack them inside a thin tarp (link):

This of course lead me to the natural question: will that fit inside a carry-on compartment of an airplane just as the Brompton did?
Bike wheels already being 26/28" might already be a deal breaker for this, but was curious if anybody ever tried bringing a disassembled diamond frame bike on an actual flight.
EDIT
The carry-on standard limit is: 22” x 14” x 9”. My thinking was that a 28" wheel could still be packed with an angle in a 22" case, so am curious if anybody ever tried that.
Here's an interesting concept design for collapsable diamond frame + wheels.


texts:
I  have seen a used bicycle for me to buy, which has got me mainly interested, but I don't like the fact it is white. Is it possible to paint it another color keeping the stickers?

Thanks.


texts: How do I make sense of Bontrager Tire Models?

texts: Looking at different tires from Trek, they have names like T2, R3, AW1, but I can't find anywhere that decodes these names and tells me the difference between one or the other.


texts: What are the pros and cons between an aluminium and carbon frame?

texts:
I'm after a mountain bike and I've narrowed it down to the Cannondale F29 (based on reviews, plus I like the look of the bike).

My question is, should I go for the carbon bike or the alloy bike?  I'm 6'4" and weigh about 125kg; I know carbon is very strong but I've heard when it goes, it just snaps (rather than alloy that bends).

Do you think this is a valid concern?

What are the pros and cons of each?


texts: Brake levers for bullhorn on single speed - tt/cross or both?

texts:
I'm newbie.

I need advice regarding brake levers for bullhorn on a single speed.
I ride both flat and bullhorn ends.

Do I need both TT levers and cross levers?
What do you use?

Bonus questions:
Can you advise specific models of levers?
Is there any reason use same brand levers as brakes (I have Tektro)?

Thanks


texts: Need new chainwheels for a cheap racing bike - which price range makes sense?

texts:
Couple of years ago I bought a rather cheap racing bike after my mountain bike was stolen. I didnt use it much at first. Now, with Corona I spent a lot of time on my bike and probably did around 1000-1500 miles in the last 3 months.

What do I Need:

Now the chain isn't that stable anymore and I guess I need new chainwheels. I went to a forum and asked about details on how to measure the size to replace them. The users were mostly amused/shocked about how used my chainwheels look but did not really answer my question. There was one good suggestion to directly invest in a crankset, which makes sence.

What do I need it for:

Like I said my bike was rather cheap ~315 Pounds (https://www.decathlon.at/rennrad-triban-500-rot-id_8377759.html). But I am perfectly happy with it, since I can do my daytrips of 20-60 miles or multiday trips 250-400 miles and I dont care much if my bike is 2 pounds more or 10% slower.

My Research:

First I spent quite some time researching chainwheels and how to replace them. But I am also fine, changing the wohle crankset (if they include new chainwheels :)). I found that cranksets are much cheaper for mountain bikes than for road bikes. Might be due to the weight but I also read that MTB cranksets might also be used on road bikes, so I am not sure.

The price range seems to be insane, like 20 - 1000 Pounds and more. I prefer a lower price but am aware that the quality should be good enough that the material does not break too fast.

Quality Brands:

My Research indicated that Shimano has good quality material.
But still there also seems to be a wide price range for them

Cheap alternatives:

If I may add a few examples:

Shimano 1

Shimano 2

Shimano 3

Decathlon

That price range makes perfect sense for my current bike, from my current perspective.

Question:

Are there arguments for not using one of these for my bike if I plan to ride around 1-3k miles the next years?

Edit:

Concerning doubts that I require new chainwheels. Please don't laugh too hard, Biking just started as a corona-replacement hobby and escalated quickly ;)


texts:
I wish to know more about converting a 2x to a 1x, especially the Force AXS eTap group set.
I currently have a double chainring, but want to ditch the Front Derailleur and go to a single chainring. I have read about narrow-wide chainrings being necessary for single drivetrains, because it keeps the chain more secure on the ring.
However, I have found this single chainring ( Force AXS specific ) WITHOUT the narrow wide.
I have also found this Force AXS one, but WITH narrow-wide one.. (incl crankset)
So there must be a difference or advantage or disadvantage for the two options. What is my best pick here?
Don’t worry about the range.. I never rode my small ring in the last 2000 miles.


texts: I am looking to buy a bicycle with a front disc brake and a rear foot brake.  I am asking this because I have mild muscular dystrophy and lost almost all of my grip strength so it is very difficult for me to stop with hand brakes.  Maybe there is another solution other than a rear foot brake and I am open to other suggestions.  If not can you recommend a good bike with a rear foot brake.  I would like the 21+ gear option but I am not sure this is possible.  I don't want to go too expensive but I want a good bike.


texts:
My daily rider is a Schwinn MTB with 26" wheels/tires. Specifically the tire size is 26x47/52. On the inner tube there's a label that reads 26 x 1.90-2.125.

I'd like to purchase a few spare tubes in order to avoid getting stranded. Question: are 26 x 1.90-2.125 and 26 x 1.95-2.125 inner tubes interchangeable?


texts: Bent a chain link back into alignment. Will it hold?

texts:
Yesterday, my chain dropped off the chainring and one of the links got bent sideways (didn't take a picture). This caused the chain to skip whenever this link would go over the casette.

I used pliers to bend it back into alignment. It's not skipping anymore, but I'm wondering if the chain link is compromised now and will fail under load (e.g. on an uphill, probably in the worst possible spot to get stranded).

I don't currently have a chain tool - should I buy one and remove the affected link? Should I replace the chain altogether (it's still new, only got ~600 km on it)? Or should I just keep riding?

Picture of the affected link after I've bent it back:


texts:
I ride an early 90s Scott Unitrack CST with the original Shimano Deore drivetrain it came with. Same as this one. When pedaling, the right pedal has a peculiar feel like a sudden inward jerk at a certain position, roughly when the right crank is parallel to the down tube. This is more noticeable when pedaling lightly. Looking down when pedaling, the right crank appears to stretch or play inward and outward. There is no detectable play when forced with hands.

I'm given to think a busted ball bearing in the crankset is responsible, but I would like to get your opinion about the cause and urgency of the issue before I take it to the shop.


texts: Clutch rear derailleur vs chain tensioner / guide

texts:
I've got a 1x10 set up. Sometimes I have a problem with the chain falling off at the front. I've been reading that a clutch mech will help to prevent this.

My mech is Deore long cage without clutch. What is the dis/advantages of a clutch mech vs a chain tensioner / chain guide?

Bike is 2006 Specialized Rockhopper Pro. Chain is correct for chainring. Its not worn, nor the chainring etc. Chain line looks fine, but maybe this could be tweaked slightly.


texts:
I had a mild spill today on my new bike, which put the (Tiagra) derailleur cage a little bit out of line. With some bending and eyeballing, I got the two jockey wheels lined up 'almost' perfectly parallel with the cassette, and shifting is okay.

My problem is, when I shift down to about the 3rd largest gear and larger, the cage 'ticks' when pedaled about 240 degrees (not in the same spot, just after about that much pedalling). I watched the cage and what's happening is, the chain starts to drift to the right (outside) of the lower jockey, and then, for some reason, one end of a link rises up off the jockey, and the cage pulls back a little bit like it's trying to get in position for a shift. It doesn't go far, though, and by the time the bunched link gets off the lower jockey, it loosens up and the tension drops out of the cage, causing it to relax into position again.

None of this happens on smaller gears. What's going on here? Can I fix it without shelling out cash for a whole new derailleur (was basically new)?


texts:
A while ago Stages added a new feature to their power meter:

  High Speed Data recording added to capture pedaling force (kgf) and torque (Nm) 64 times per second for post ride analysis (.csv format).

I captured part of a short ride with this, which produced data like this:

Timestamp, kgf, Nm
"2014-06-26 19:21:25.025",,
46441, 7.3, 12.2
46473, 7.5, 12.6
46505, 7.9, 13.1
46537, -1.7, -2.8
46569, -2.2, -3.7
46601, -3.5, -5.8
46633, -4.0, -6.7
46665, -4.1, -6.8
46697, -4.2, -7.0
46729, -5.6, -9.3
46761, -6.1, -10.2
46793, -6.8, -11.4
46825, -7.1, -11.8
46857, -4.8, -8.0
46889, -1.1, -1.9
46921, -6.4, -10.7
46953, -10.7, -17.9
46985, -9.0, -15.1
47017, -5.7, -9.4
47049, -6.7, -11.2
47081, -6.8, -11.4
47113, -6.8, -11.4
47145, -7.3, -12.1

(the complete file file, captured with firmware v2.051)

I could well be mistaken, but the data seems either useless or broken to me:

the kgf column is almost exactly equal to the Nm multiplied by 0.6, so both only measuring the torque, not the pedal velocity.. so you cannot recalculate wattage..?
There is no obvious way to tell the angle of the pedal.. so you cannot reliably visualise torque throughout the pedal stroke..?

Is there any interesting analysis that can be done with this data? Searching only finds articles like this and various news items on the release


texts:
I commute on bike and I wear jeans (which I work in).  I find that after about 500 miles of bike commuting in a single pair of jeans I've got holes in my pants from the saddle-jean rubbing.

My problem is probably accelerated by the fact that I have a fabric seat, the "Jamis Aurora Sport" saddle which comes stock with the Jamis Aurora.  However, I'm told that people experience similar issues with non-fabric seats.

Having said that, I'm trying to figure out whether I should get a new saddle (something smoother like leather or plastic), or alternatively wear a pair of athletic shorts over my jeans (easily/quickly removeable at work/ in public).

At my current rate I will need to replace and/or repair a pair of jeans every 2 months.

My question is, what measures can be taken to minimize the rate at which my pants wear through when commuting (without the obvious solution of having dedicated pants for cycling)?


texts: Kryptonite Flex frame bracket slides around a lot

texts:
I had my Krytonite mini for a few years now, and I remember installing the Flex-frame bracket on a bike frame which I left outside when I got it. I had a go at removing it recently and put it on my Mint MTB frame and now I'm very unsatisfied with how it slides from side to side when standing and generally backwards.

It seems the rubber running inside the strap has perished and no longer keeps any kind of grip. Would I be able to go to a hardware store and get a piece of rubber that will really keep it in the same place? Do these things actually work with performance oriented riding?


texts:
I recently purchased a Conquer brand trainer - I have learned a lot after buying this thing - but I didn't know what quick release skewers were before I purchased the trainer.

I've got a skewer that came with the trainer and after replacing the wheel to take a quick release, I fit the skewer onto the wheel and frame. After doing this, the skewer sticks out about 5/8in beyond the cap. This will not work in the trainer.

Can I cut this down with a saw? Should I expect to have trouble in the future if I do this?

I'm new to the realm of bicycling, so thanks for any help with this.

http://imgur.com/2WhZ8Kc < image url


texts:
So I bought a new (used) wheel set for my mountain bike and it came with a 9-speed cassette. I currently have 3x7 rapid shifters, which presents an incompatibility. I'm wondering how to fix this problem. The way I see it my options are

Replace my shifter with a 9 speed shifter
Replace my cassette with a 7 speed cassette and an extra spacer.
Replace the spacers with 7 speed cassette spacers and remove some sprockets.
Get a 9 speed chain and roll with it.

I'm not sure what the best approach is but I'm wondering if anyone has tried number 4. I know that there will probably be issues wit shifting because the stops on the shifter are bigger than the travel between sprockets, by I'd like to know if it is manageable or not. Any advice? Failing that what is my best approach?


texts: Any idea of the maker of this carbon frame, if more photos needed just let me know


texts: Can't get in first gear on Shimano ten speed block

texts:
Just replaced drive chain on mtb ... new cassette (Shimano 10 sp ) new chain (Shimano 10sp) new rear mech (Shimano 10sp long) and new (Shimano 10sp). I've set bottom stop tensioned cable and adjusted the angle of the mech.

The gears shift perfectly until it gets to the first gear and it won't move into that gear. Back the stop off completely and still can't make the shift.... Any ideas ????

Begining to wonder if I should have spacer behind the cassette so the mech can make the shift .....


texts: Do I really have to replace the cassette when I replace the chain, or is this a scam?

texts:
My chain broke so I brought the bike in and the guy told me "Well you don't have the old chain, so we have to replace the cassette also. They go together. If you don't replace the cassette then the chain will skip when you pedal hard."

Is there any possible truth to this, or is it just a scummy attempt to turn a $20 job into a $75 job?

For reference, the chain and cassette were both only about a month old, and had both been installed at the same shop - although they didn't seem to remember these facts when making the case for needing the new cassette.


texts: Will shimano 10 speed triple shifter work with compact chainset?

texts: Will a right hand shifter described as shimano 10 speed triple work with a SRAM 9 cassette and a shimano compact chainset?


texts: The brake lever of Shimano's BL-MT200 is too long for me, can I modified it to a shorter one?

texts: The brake lever of Shimano's BL-MT200 is too long for me, can I modify it to a shorter one?


texts: I have asthma and find it very hard to ride for a very long time without tightness in my chest. Is this safe for me? I have knee pain as well and I find bike riding helps with the knee pain, but asthma is a different story.


texts: What model of bike does Jock use in the film Young Offenders

texts:
Its the guy on the left / red bike if you have not seen the film. For that matter any of the bikes jack uses in the film would be good to know.

White Bike

Black Bike

Yellow Bike

More bikes


texts:
I have never raced before but there is a cycloycross race a mile from my house this weekend.

Course has a fast bumpy downhill.

On my mountain bike with fixed carbon fork and tubeless at 40 PSI the downhill is easy but I timed myself and I am slower by a good margin.  6:10 versus 6:30 on a three lap test course.  Even riding the CX second when I was more tired.

A buddy of mine raced me and we switched bikes and we both agreed the CX was faster but just getting banged around too much.  At the bottom of the downhill on the CX can hardly see.  In a heat of 75 riders on a small course I want to see.

On related question someone posted a link to last year's race.  The hill I was afraid of is on the course but the decent is three long switch backs.  And even then it is late in the course so the field will be spread out.

The CX is clincher and not tubeless - that is not going to change.
I cannot put my mtn wheels on my CX as the mtn is disc and the CX is not.
I put the biggest tire I could on the CX (38 mm) and the lowest posted pressure for the tire of 55 PSI.
Tire still feels hard.
Tire does not even come close to bottoming out.
At 45 PSI the tire starts to soften up.

So finally a direct question.  Is it safe/sane to run a 38 mm at 45 psi when the posted range is 55-90?  I weigh 165.


texts: Threading Shimano chain, over or under lug?

texts:
I have an MTB with Shimano Deore/SLX components.

I just replaced the chain.

Should the chain go over the lug as I have it in the picture?


texts: Can an aluminium frame rust from the inside if water has been in it for some time?

texts: My bike has been sitting out in the open for a few months due to lack of space. When I finally decided to strip it down and bring it inside, a lot of water came out of the frame. It could have been sitting there for a few months. The chain and the cables have started to rust but that's an easy fix. I'm worried if the frame could have began to rust from the inside and should I expect it to break unexpectedly in the future?


texts: What direction of rotation should I mount my tyre?

texts:
I have a panaracer rampage tyre which I have mounted on my front wheel. This tire has knobs in the centre tread which have a ramp on one side.

The tyre does not have a direction of rotation marked and I'm wondering which way around to mount it. I heard it can be mounted one way for 'better breaking' and the other for 'less rolling resistance'. Which way is which?

I want to set it up for less rolling resistance. When looking at the bottom of the tyre, and pushing the bike forward, should the ramped or square side of the knobs be making contact with the ground first?

I've seen this related question, but it doesn't really answer my specific query:
Which way do I orient my bike tire's tread direction? and why?


texts: I'm not sure what brand this is at all. Any help would be much appreciated. I've tried looking up the serial but i am unsure what the last serial number is. It appears to be a "b" or "6" but I am unsure. The serial is located on the bottom bracket and it appears to have been originally green, but was then painted over as grey.


texts:
I'm looking for some help on what is the right consistency for a paraffin wax based chain lubricant?

I followed ozcycle's guide as closely as I could. After ~200km of riding in the dry you could run your finger along the chain and get a thin black line of dirt off the chain.

The next few rides were after rain: the track was damp with small pools of water in some places but generally dry. The chain is still well below 300km since I waxed it and It took about a dozen paper towels before the drivetrain stopped wiping off dark black lubricant.

The wax based lubricant on the chain is a bit like a very heavy grease: it isn't really solid, but it's a lot drier than a conventional oil. There's definitely a lot less muck to remove using the wax too.

My question is: do I need to add more paraffin wax to the mixture? The impression I got was that the chain shouldn't really be getting a buildup of black greasy material on it.

I fully degreased my drivetrain before starting the waxing, the mixture is of only paraffin wax & paraffin oil. I dipped the chain and left it at a temparature a little bit above the mixture's melting point: not too hot, no solid skin.
I wiped as much excess from the chain as I could after dipping it. The ratios were based on attempting to get the consistency in oz cycles instructions videos. I probably ended up using a bit more oil than wax.

Update

I'm not sure the consistency is completely to blame. At least, I assumed the dark residue was coming from the road. It seems that in fact, the wax is coming out of my crockpot already discoloured...

Chain Waxing - Strainer / Colander / Other?


texts: Can you reverse the sprockets on a cassette to lengthen its lifespan?

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texts: I just bought a Top Fuel 9, 2016, 27.5. It came with Bontrager Mustang Pro wheels.  Where would I find the specs for these wheels?  I am thinking of upgrading the wheel set.  Any suggestions for upgraded wheels?


texts:
I'm going on my first big touring trip (2 weeks – that's big for me). I've found some nice light-weight camping chairs and I'm wondering if it's worth investing in one.

Two basic options seem to stand out:

The Eureka Helinox is a proper foldout chair. price ~$100. weight: ~1kg. very well reviewed, folds up small.
Thermarest plus is basically a frame for your thermarest sleeping pad (which i already have). price ~$40. weight: .2kg. very well reviewed, and folds up even smaller than than helinox.

I'm happy to spend the dough if it's worthwhile, but I don't want to waste money or space on something totally frivolous. Put another way, a bit of luxury would be nice but I dont want to be cursing my every pedal all trip either.

Does anyone have experience with this? Is it the sort of thing where you're like 'I'd kill for a chair after biking all day' or is sitting on the ground for weeks totally fine?

thanks!


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texts: I tried to inflate my tire with the presta valve and it won't inflate. As you see in the image, the valve is a bit crooked. After couple of times pumping, it becomes more difficult to continue but tire won't inflate. The pump also has a little crack which lets the air out but it shouldn't be the problem because I inflated the other tire with schrader valve perfectly. Is there a trick that I can use or I need to change the tube?