texts: Bottle holder - aluminium or titanium bolts?

texts:
I'm a "weight-weenie" and optimize the bolts I'm using. Replacing steel with aluminium or titanium, depending of the location (to summarize: exerted forces, and dangerosity in case of breakage). Aluminium if possible, otherwise titanium.

For the bottle holders (two M5 bolts for each holder), people (fellow weight-weenies) say these bolts are amongst the less stressed, and aluminium can be used without problem. Some even use nylon bolts.

Though, I don't "feel it". Actually, I'm already using aluminium bolts here for months, and it seems to be okay. But these aluminium bolts are really lightweight, and I still fear they might break. Thus, I'm considering using titanium bolts here.

Do you think I am overfearing about the aluminium bolts and they are really sufficient, or not?

(FYI, I put a 500ml bottle on each holder, and I do city/road cycling, of course with some bumps here and there.)


texts: Dura Ace 9100 chainring on Ultegra 8000 crank?

texts: I mounted a Dura Ace 55T 9100 on a Ultegra 8000 crank. It fit fine but on two sides on the ”outside” the crank and the chain ring is slightly misaligned. The shapes do not fully match. I just wanted to double check that it is as it should?


texts: How do I know what is the right bottom bracket for my old road bike?

texts:
I've got an old road bike. I'm not exactly sure what the frame is as it was repainted. I've reason to believe the that bottom bracket is wrong because the crankset ring is too close to the chainstay.

The crankset is a shimano golden arrow, similar to this picture https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7067/6994214279_d19b265a9a_z.jpg

I'm concerned about the offset as you can see above in this picture. On the non drive side the crank looks like it is designed to be much further in and on the drive side it is really close in.

Please advise me how one knows which bottom bracket is right for X bike. Shell width is reasonably obvious because otherwise it wont fit but what about axel length.

The frame is a late eighties / early 90s cinelli steel frame.

Some BB shells also have different design for the casing which means there is more space between the side of the shell and the crank.  Are there any hard and fast rules for BB choice?


texts: How to silence a creaking cassette/freehub body

texts:
I have a DT Swiss ARC 1400 Dicut 63 rear wheel. It has a Shimano rear derailleur 11 speed LIGHT (ASL11) freehub body and I have an Ultegra 11-28 11-speed cassette. After a few weeks it started to creak under power. Very noticeable uphill. I applied Park Tool Polylube 1000 lubricant to the freehub body and the noise stopped. However, it returns after every 200 miles or so. I'm getting pretty sick of removing the cassette and reapplying the grease every week or so. I ride in good conditions. No rain.

Is Polylube 1000 the best choice? Is there another technique to solving this issue that lasts more than 200 miles?


texts: Clonking sound when pedalling in 5th and 6th gear?

texts:
I just purchased a bike, with 7 gears.  When I cycle in 5th and 6th gear it's making a clonking noise when pedalling. It doesn't do this noise in any other gear just the 5th and 6th.
My partner said it sound like it's coming from the crank shaft but it's not that.  It is from the back somewhere.  He has checked it and it's not misaligned and he has tightened up the screws if it was the derailleur why would it only happen in 5th and 6th gear.  I'm confused by it.
I would anyone know what the cause of this is and is it a fault with the bike?


texts:
In the film The Program, about the career of Lance Armstrong, there is a scene (at about 29:45 minutes) where his mechanic turns around something on his bike and afterwards he climbs up the hills like no one else.

So I have 2 question:

Did Lance Armstrong cheat to win his first Tour de France using some kind of motor?
Was it even possible in 1999 to hide such an effective motor in a bike frame?


texts:
Are Velomobiles exempt from UK Window Tinting laws ?
I know they are Exempt from speed limits, as speed limits
only apply to Motor Vehicles. Is it the same with the Window tinting laws ?


texts:
I recently purchased a fixed gear bike, Kilo TT. I had some fenders lying around, SKS raceblade. I tried to install them on my bikebut noticed that the fenders attached to the skewers. My fixed gear bike has bolts in the front and back and the fenders only fit quick release skewers.

What are some options? Can I put QR skewers on a fixed gear bike? Is there a reason they come with bolts?


texts:
I want to begin with road biking as a sport and are currently trying to find a decent bike.

Some friends recommended to get the Radon R1 2019 with a complete Shimano 105 R7000 groupset.

In a bike-store I found a new no brand bike with a complete Shimano 105 5700 groupset.
It also features an aluminum frame, a carbon fork and weighs about 10.5kg for less than 300€.
Is it still relevant in 2019, as it is almost 10 years old, or is it comparable with newer Shimano Sora groupsets via trickle-down?

There seems to be a lot of myths and opinions on various groupsets, but is there some "evidence", which indicates a different performance?


texts: When to use coaster brake, and when to use rear rim brake?

texts:
I have recently moved to Germany (from the UK) and started commuting to work by bike. Apart from the confusion of cycling on the other side of the road, and the levers for the brakes being the other way round to the are in the UK, my new bike is fitted with a coaster brake as well as calliper rim brakes for the front and rear wheels.

I have never ridden a bike with a coaster brake before, as they are unusual in the UK. I am unclear as to when I should use the coaster brake and when I should prefer using the rim brake for the rear wheel? Are they essentially equivalent and I should just use whichever I find easier, or are there circumstances under which I should favour one or the other or even both together?

If it makes a difference my route to work is fairly flat and mostly consists of cycle paths separated from the road, although at this time of year there are a lot of wet leaves on which I'm finding it difficult to control the speed as easily as I'd like. It has been several years since I have ridden a bike.


texts: How to decrease belly fat while cycling?

texts: I've been cycling for about 1.5 yrs now doing about 1.5 hrs on a daily basis. I've been able to tone my muscles but I cannot lose my belly fat. Does anybody have any idea to decrease belly fat while cycling?


texts: What are the current options for short crank arms?

texts:
I have knee problems, and I've noticed that the seat position that makes it possible for my leg to not be absolutely straight at the bottom of the stroke causes my knee to pop up a bit higher than my hip at the top of the stroke, and I can feel it. Biking should not cause me more knee pain than downhill skiing, but it does. I think that switching to a shorter crank would help. For my leg length, about 155mm-160mm looks about right, according to the various calculators I've seen linked here.

However, I'm at a loss for actually finding said crankset. Has anyone run into moderately-priced (under $400) cranksets that are either built with short cranks or have them available to be attached?

I'd prefer a 3-ring mountain bike set with fairly wide gear spacing(?), since I'm more of a woods and gravel trails tourer than road racer, and this place is really hilly :)

Alternatively, are there any ready-made women's/older children's bikes with crankarms in this range?


texts: I cannot insert noodle to reattach front vee brake

texts:
Removed front wheel to transport bike from 4 week stay at bike shop for tune up.  At home, I cannot insert noodle to reattach bike.  It's like cable is too tight.  Contacted repair guy, who said I could use a hex wrench to release cable a bit.  It's on so blasted tight, I cannot budge it. (Senior lady here!)
Does anyone have any suggestion on how to make this work?  I do not have anyone nearby to help.   I do not want to return bike for another lengthy stay at shop.
The adjuster does not give me enough cable to pull the noodle enough to seat it.  When the repair guy removed the wheel at the shop, he certainly didn't use force.  Someone suggested letting air from tire, removing it, inserting noodle and then pumping tire back up.  Perhaps I that is worth a try????


texts: I'm new to biking only doing it since the past 3 months. I don't use my front gears much since i'm pretty tall and lower gears means going at a very high cadence for little output. so wondering if i could remove the derailleur. Does this create any problem?


texts: What is wrong with my Shimano 105 5800 front derailleur?

texts:
Background:

I've installed a complete new 105 group (this bike is a brand new custom build) on a Civia Hyland frame.

The rear wheel has a white industries CLD disc hub for the 11 speed cassettes.

The Civia doesn't have a brazed on cable stop, so I've installed a clamp on cable stop on the down tube for the FD cable.

I have an inline barrel adjuster at the cable stop. The Civia has adjustable dropouts, so I've put them as far back as possible, resulting in an effective chainstay length of around 435mm or so. The wheel is in the correct orientation, I've checked side to side length (wheel edge to downtube) and it lines up with the downtube.

I've installed the FD according to the shimano FD shop manual for this dérailleur.

The FD is a clamp on version.

I have plenty of tension, the FD (5800) shifts great and fast, the problem is rubbing.

I can actually adjust the FD so that BOTH the small front/large rear and large front/small rear rub on the FD. I can adjust it so that it rubs at both extremes! Note that I don't mean the cross-chained extremes here, i.e., big/big and small/small, these are ok with the trim positions (I also don't care about these, since I don't use them)

When in the small/big combo it rubs on the inner part of the FD cage. When in the big/small combo it rubs on the outer part of the FD cage.

I'm sure it isn't in a trim position. I'm using a 5800 shifter. I've tried both cable adjuster positions at the pinch bolt. There is slight runout on the big chain ring, but it is pretty small.

In the small/big (front/rear) combo, the chain rubs on the inner part of the cage. In the big/small combo, the chain rubs on the outer part of the cage. It is like my shifter isn't pulling enough cable on the final trim to big shift, or that the chainrings are actually spaced too far apart (I suppose I should pull the crank off and check the latter).

This also occurs with both adjustment screws backed all the way out, to ensure that the full shifter cable range is being utilized.

The chainline is correct at 43.5mm.

Has anyone else seen this problem? Do you think I have a bad shifter?


texts: Is there a way to fill your tires with nitrogen?

texts:
I know this is a rather controversial issue. I was skeptical as well before doing this on my car, and I have not refilled my car tires for several months. Before that I needed to adjust the pressure every couple of months at least.

Now I think it is a good idea to try this for our bikes. Especially since, when I see I need to fill up my bike tires, I get too lazy and give up the ride altogether.

Is there a way to do this at home?

EDIT:
I thought I'd update the question for people who come and read later:

Thanks for all the comments, I drive a lot (30kmiles/year) and I saw (to my surprise) a significant difference with nitrogen.

I understand the reasoning with losing oxygen over time and increasing the N2 concentration but in practice that does not happen fast enough.

I think I'll look into Helium/Argon and I'll update you if I managed to do something interesting.

And I live in a small place I don't like to have a large pump but that is exactly why pumping is such a chore for me,


texts: How to adjust the handlebar alignment with front wheel?

texts:
I have the follwing stem

My handlebar is a bit too much right and I am not sure what screw(s) I have to loosen the one on top (in the headset) or the two left on the picture above or maybe all of them.


texts: Bormio (Italy) to Annecy (France) multiday bike tour

texts: I'm planning a cycle tour from Bormio (Italy) to Annecy (France), estimating about 80km / day.  Has anybody done this?  Any recommendation for routes, preferably taking in cols / passes along the way.


texts: Replace my 28 x 1-5/8 x 1-3/8 tires with beefier ones for flat gravel trails

texts:
This is my first post!
My wife has a great old aluminum hybrid bike that works very well on paved roads. We are now doing more backcountry flat gravel trails and I don't want to replace the entire bike.
Can you please tell me what size of tires I can buy to replace the current 28 x 1-5/8 x 1-3/8?
Thank you so much!


texts: Jitter/Sticks on Coaster Brake Hub Wheel

texts:
I am having a major problem trying to get my Coaster Brake Hub reassembled properly...

I've tried with 2 separate wheels, different components and all.

Here's a video of the problem:

I am using the exact same system as this guy in the video:

Do you have any idea of what is STICKING, causing it to jitter like that?

I'm tried reassembling it 4 times now on 2 separate wheels with duplicate components.

I've tried different tensions - it's as if the insides might be a bit worn out or...?

Anyone have any experience on this?


texts: Rusty brake nuts & cables: Should I change my brakes or not?

texts:
I have been using a used bike for a few months now and when I bought it it was in mint conditions. However, the winter has been really harsh were I live and since I drove every day to work with it some components have become rusty (even though I cleaned and greased everything upon me buying it). What worries me the most are the brakes. They are simple rim brakes attached with one long bolt to the bike frame. Almost every nut on them has become rusty and the cables have quite a lot of rust on them too. On the other end, the body of the brakes is clean and there is no rust on it.

Now I was wondering whether I should just get new brakes or maybe change nuts, bolts and cables. I saw that this latter is not really cost efficient where I leave, so maybe changing everything is not a bad idea afterall. But is it necessary? What do you think?


texts: I have been looking around and I cannot find anywhere that sells a cassette with a 16 tooth top gear that is Shimano 11 speed compatible. Junior racing requires gear limits and I was hoping to find something similar in spec to Ultegra or Dura-Ace. Please can someone advise?


texts:
I have a Sekai 2000 bike and the rims are bent very minutely. If I turn the wheels front or back and put my fingernail in a fixed position close to the rim, it is less then 1mm. Is that anything I need to worry about? I will be riding out in the country on asphalt and then down a gravel lane.

I am considering replacing the rims and tires. I kinda of want yellow tires and rim since the bike is blue. All the running gear is brand new and some brand I cant recall at the moment. I know the tires are 27x1 1/4 or 630 x 28. Do they have yellow colored rims for that size? I know the rims aren't that important but I like to admire the little things. either that or black or white rims that will contrast between the blue and yellow.


texts:
I am looking for something similar to a saddle bag but that mounts to the seat post and not the saddle.

I have a rear mounted camera that attaches to the saddle so want a bag that I can mount lower down on the seat post. I want to keep tubes, CO2, multitool etcetera in there.

I have searched and can't find anything.

Thanks


texts: Why are rear shocks at a 30 degree angle and the mud-guards so high?

texts:
For bikes like these, why aren't the rear shocks (the shocks are directly above the pedal) vertical like those of a motorcycle? I don't see how the bike can take shocks when the shock absorber is at such a low angle.

A friend said the mud-guard is so high because there's no other way to attach it to the cycle at a lower height. Is that really the reason why the mud-guard is so high?


texts: Can I replace steel bearings with ceramic bearings?

texts: I'm using WH-550 from Shimano, can I replace my steel bearing balls with ceramic bearing balls?


texts:
What should be in the basic toolkit for someone that wants to maintain their own bicycle?
I'm looking for something for your average day to day maintenance and tools that I will get the most use out of. Ex: I don't think I need a chain oil/lube/clean contraption...(do I?)

I have some hex wrenches, a few tire levers for changing tires, random screwdrivers, and pliers. Do I need a chain tool? Do I need a bike stand?  (I sometimes invert the bike and do tuning that way)


texts: What shifters are compatible with shimano 9-speed?

texts:
I haven't ridden in anger since around 2003. I have two bikes which I am trying to return to a roadworthy state. Each has a non-functioning right hand shimano shifter.

Racing bike: Ultegra 6500 (9-speed), double chainring
Training/winter/touring bike: 1055 (8-speed), triple chainring

I'm thinking that it would be cost-effective to convert both to shimano 9-speed, as parts (shifters) are likely available second hand, and I have a spare Ultegra 9-speed rear mech that I could stick on my training bike.

Is there a good history of shimano groupsets, so I can work out which 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace groups were 9-speed?

I see that modern shimano groupsets have handlebar-routed gear cables. Are there any 9-speed compatible shifters which have this? (I remember that there used to be a method for converting campagnolo 10-speed to shimano 9-speed in order to gain this advantage, which I'd be willing to consider if I knew the relevant components.)

In summary, two questions:

which shimano groupsets were 9-speed?
do any shimano 9-speed groupsets have handlebar-routed gear cables?

...or please direct me to somewhere that will tell me this information.


texts: Do certain makes/models/types of bikes get stolen more than others?

texts:
I was reading this article on the most commonly stolen cars, and having my bike stolen recently, I got to thinking: do certain makes/models/types of bikes get stolen more than others? My bike was a 15 year-old GT Aggressor 2.0 (Mountain bike) and it was stolen out of my back yard. I just have a hard time thinking that someone was seeking out that year/model.

It would seem that most bike thefts are crimes of opportunity, opposed to targeted attacks, but I don't see any data to back that up. Also, it seems like for cars, the cars that are stolen the most, just so happen to be the same cars most commonly driven. I assume the same would go for bicycles?

Any bike thieves want to chime in?


texts: Are folding handlebars a good idea from an engineering standpoint?

texts:
A couple of Chinese stores have been selling folding handlebars:

At first glance this appears to be a great idea since the handlebar width is one of the reasons that carrying and storing bikes can be a problem.

From an engineering standpoint, are these types of handlebars feasible?


texts: Tubeless conversion on schrader valve rims

texts:
Situtation
I have an old hardtail collecting dust. I occurred to me that a rigid fork, and some wide (i.e. >50 mm), slick tires would make it a pretty ideal commuter for me.
Then I thought it'd be great the setup those wide, slick tires tubeless.
Unfortunately, I just recalled that the rims on that bike are drilled for schrader valves. I had forgotten because when I bought the bike I immediately purchased the grommets necessary to use presta valves on the rim.
I notice two things

The first is that it doesn't appear the tubeless schrader valves are readily available (http://www.universalcycles.com/search.php?q=tubeless+valve)
The Stans conversion kit comes with tape with a valve already attached (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1208)

Question:
Will leaving those grommets in place allow me to set up the rims tubeless, or am I stuck running tubes since the are rims drilled for schrader valves?


texts:
I have always ridden a Mountain Bike and lately I've lived with a strange question related to the tire I've been using. I use a pair of 26 x 1.95 CST Rush tires that are a great cost-benefit and found easily in my country for $20 or less.

However, after a few minutes of riding on the road, it feels like the rear tire is being emptied. A few minutes after, this feeling passes and the trip remains normal, with great performance on the road and no complaints about the performance of the tire. This is normal behavior?


texts: Can I partially upgrade from Shimano Sora to Ultegra 6800?

texts:
I have a Shimano 9 speed groupset and I want to upgrade to something that's better on the climbs without shelling out and buying a whole new groupset which would be more money than my actual bike.

Would it be possible to just buy a new 11 speed chain + 11 speed rear derailleur + 11 speed cassette + 11 speed shifters (all ultegra 6800)?

I.e. I want to avoid buying front derailleur + hub + crankset.  Would this work and be worth it?

Thanks!


texts:
I am planning a long trip in Japan (about 1400 km) in a hilly/mountain region. I already know there will be no cycling path and then I will have to share the road with cars. This is allowed by local regulation.

Along the way there will be for sure some tunnels, and besides taking care of being overly visible, I wonder if it is safe cycling there.
Since already crossing a tunnel within a car one can smell the exausts of the other car/trucks, what could be the effect of crossing it at a slower speed and with an higher breath-in breath-out pace?

Should I, when possible, consider alternate routes or I am being afraid of a storm in a tea cup?

EDIT
The lenght of the tunnels can span from few hundred meters to 3-4 km.


texts: Giant Toughroad SLR 1 for long distance tour

texts:
I will be undertaking a cycle tour of around 2700km (~1800 Miles) in Europe this summer (Early July to the middle of August) and have been looking at the Giant Toughroad SLR1 as the bike to go for.

From the (limited) content I have read online, the bike seems to be a good fit but I wanted to get the opinions of some people who might have used this bike for undertaking something similar to the above.

I will be attaching rear panniers to it and possibly front as well, going for Ortlieb panniers.

I am 193cm tall and weight 90kg (6ft 3" and 200lbs).

I am quite new to bicycle touring so was wondering if anyone has been in my situation and what recommendations you have regarding this bike (or maybe others).

Also, if you buy a bike online direct from the manufacturer, do you need to do much assembly when it is delivered (from Giant in particular)?


texts: How hot does a bicycle disk get?  I’ve been working on heat rejection for auto/truck disk brakes with some success.  But the disk temperature needs to reach 700 degrees to be effective.  This seems a bit toasty for a bicycle disk.  Any thoughts?


texts: How long does it take to deflate a tube for a 26" bike tire?

texts: Simply by removing the valve, how long does it take to deflate a tube for a 26" bike tire?  Also, is there a safe and quicker alternative to do it?  Thank you.


texts: Is there an iPhone app like Trailforks but for road bikes? I'd like to see where paved paths (bikes only, no cars) are located.


texts: What could cause a tyre to deform in this way?

texts: I have been riding my bike about 450 miles and following the last ride I noticed the tyre had deformed. I'm riding them at 110 psi, just before the deformation you can see a skid mark. Could it have been down to that?


texts: Tyres for puncture resistance for mountain biking on rocky dry terrain (folding & lightweight)

texts: I need a tyre that is really durable, puncture resistance, folding, lightweight and good for rocky (sometimes loose) and dry terrain. I work as a guide in Georgia (Caucasus) and my tyres wear out too quickly.


texts: Fixed gear wheel NOT stopping when feet stop. Any ideas why?

texts:
I have a Pure Fix fixed gear bike. I've been riding it in single speed mode for a while but recently decided to flip the wheel and make it a fixed gear.

My problem is that when I try to stop moving my feet on the pedals, the bike wants to keep moving forward. Like the momentum of the movement is causing it to be extremely hard to stop. The wheel doesn't just stop, and the pedals push back against my feet. That means I'm having to put a great deal of force on the pedals in order for it to just slow down!

Aren't fixed gears supposed to do exactly what your feet do? I used to have an old bike a long time ago and it was really easy to stop the tires from turning, making skidding or braking a breeze.


texts: What harm results from riding with a stretched chain?

texts:
Due to sheer laziness, my maintenance amounts to an annual trip to the LBS.  After moving, my new LBS suggested that I replace my chain immediately, before it destroys the drive train.  What they didn't mention was that it already had, so I needed a new cassette within a week, because the chain slipped under pressure.

The next year, they checked the cassette before recommending a chain replacement, and it was already getting worn, so I decided to stay with the current chain at least as long as it takes to pay for a new cassette in the chains I'm not purchasing every thousand miles.  At about three thousand miles a year, it shouldn't take all that long.

Now, though, I'm concerned that I might be causing more problems than just cassette wear.  Might I have to replace the chain ring, too?  Am I setting myself up for other potentially expensive problems?  Is the chain likely to break in the middle of a ride within the next year or two?


texts: Shimano Deore 2x10 derailleur M6025-L with 3x Alivio M4050 crank

texts:
Will my Shimano Deore front derailleur M6025 2x10 work with Shimano Alivio 3x crankset?
I'm confused because my front derailleur is not 3x design.


texts: Why do low-quality bikes have horizontal dropouts, even though they aren't fixed speed?

texts:
Though convenient vertical dropouts and standard derailleur mounting are appearing on low-end bicycles, a lot still use horizontal dropouts, without any fittings for trim to return the wheel axle to exactly the same position when it is removed. The hapless users of these bikes have to fiddle with the wheel after fixing a flat or whatever. Moreover, without those limiting screws, the axle can slip under load, jamming the wheel against a chainstay.

The only purpose for such a drop-out is that it provides a way to tension the chain on a fixed-speed bike. But these bikes will never be converted to fixed speed. So why do their frames have horizontal dropouts?

Is it because cheap frames cannot be manufactured accurately enough to have precisely aligned vertical dropouts, or is there some other reason?

Also, if I may stuff the question a little bit: why aren't the dropouts just used at their very end position? These bikes always have the axle positioned in some mid-position in the dropout, even though no such position is necessary for the sake of the chain, which is tensioned by a derailleur, and will likely work fine in any possible dropout position.   Ah yes: the derailleur hanger typically has a stabilizing screw that goes through the dropout also, rearward of the axle. But couldn't that be solved in some other way, though, like having that screw located forward of the axle?


texts: What is the best approach to an again and again wobbling rear wheel

texts:
For the last ten years, I have been riding a mountain bike (Specialized/Rockhopper), and often rather wildly, through rough terrain (roots, jumps, ruts). I am around 110 kg (240 pounds).
As a consequence, my back wheel often starts to wobble after some dozen rides, typically coming with the loss of one or more spokes. My cure so far was to bring it in the shop, and get the spokes replaced, and the wheel was true again. There are rarely issues with the front wheel, but it happened too.

However, in the recent two years, I have only ridden on pavement (roads and bike trails), and it still happens a lot now. I have the feeling that the back wheel is just beyond its life, but I'm not sure, and I really don't have the knowledge if this makes even sense.

The question is, what is the best/right thing to do now:

I can keep going to the shop every other month, and get the rear wheel trued-up. Costly in the long term, but works.
I can ask them to replace the rear wheel. A lot more cost, as the cassette needs to be transferred, and this would open a can of worms, the cassette is over ten years old and maybe should be replaced too, and when doing this, the derailleur, the chain, and the front sprockets also should be replaced, so I'm quickly nearing the price of a new bike. It might still be the best option, though.
I can buy spokes and a spoke key - should be cheap - and learn to fix that myself. That is at the moment my favorite idea, but I am not sure it solves the issue.
I can remove all spokes, to see the true form of the rear wheel (which is probably badly bend). Then I bend it back to about straight (or replace it), and add all spokes back in. I don't know if that approach makes any sense; it sounds like a lot of effort.
I can toss it and buy a new bike

I am looking for someone experienced with such repairs, who is not interested to make the most money off me, to tell me what is the best approach. What makes sense?


texts:
I'm considering replacing my road shoes, finally, and I was looking at the Fi'zi:k R3 Uomo Carbon Road. I'm in Dubai. No one in my region carries them in stock, so there is little possibility of seeing them, or fitting them before I purchase, unless I wait another 6 months for our trip home.

I am aware that purchasing them sight unseen is foolish, but I may do it anyway.

Do any of you have experience with the shoe? Does it fit to a reasonable degree of accuracy with the Euro standard, so if I order my usual size they will likely fit?

What about quality? I'm usually massively impressed with the quality of products that Fi'zi:k produces, but this is a new product for them.

Edit: Do the R1 and the R3 fit the same?

Thanks for your time.


texts: Is there any advantage to removing rust?

texts: I mean a functional, noncosmetic, advantage. If I left the rust that was already there, would it weaken the parts? If it would cause more damage to some parts, which ones?


texts:
I've just found out where friction occurs in my BMX.

When I take chain off the Outer Part and spin the rear wheel the wheel will spin for several minutes but when the Outer Part can't rotate with the rest of the wheel (when chain is on) friction is caused by the Inner Part rubbing against the Outer Part

  Questions

How to find a replacement of the bad part(s) with the least friction? OR fix the friction IF that's a better choice?

What are these parts called?


texts: I have a set of Shimano WH-RS10 hubs on my bike. Can I upgrade to a 11 speed freehub or do I need to change everything?  If not what would I need to upgrade to 11 speed wheel?


texts: Perfectly round holes on new Schwalbe Pro One tire

texts: Two days ago I installed a new pair of Schwalbe Pro One Race Addix (tubeless setup) and went for a first ride yesterday. Today i saw that both tires had some (5 or 6) perfectly round little holes evenly distributed all around the tires tread which I didn't see when installing them. Are those holes meant to be there anf if so, what are they for? Or did I damage them on my first ride?


texts: Squeaky noise coming from rear derailleur or jockey wheels

texts: I have this horrible squeaky noise coming from my rear deraileur area. It only happens when I pedal. Watch below for the video.


texts: Very short travel minimalist suspension fork for rails-to-trails riding

texts:
I would like to convert a MTB frame to an XC bike for riding on former railroad tracks that have been converted to trails that present a mix of surfaces: fine gravel, dirt road with crushed stone, grass, poorly maintained broken and eroded concrete pavement, and long stretches of well-maintained macadam.
To that end, is there a 27.5" tapered-steerer suspension fork (disc mounts) with very short travel,  perhaps only 25mm-50mm?
A rigid chromoly fork would probably do but I cannot find one that fits the frame without using a tapered-to-straight headtube adapter.
P.S. I'd prefer to avoid carbon, if possible.


texts: Cadence meter for the Shimano Ultegra Flight Deck 5601?

texts: Is there a cadence meter available for the Shimano Ultegra Flight Deck 5601?  Or is there a good alternative option for measuring cadence without changing the flight deck setup?


texts: Rockshox Pike 351 closest mainline model?

texts:
I'm looking at getting some second-hand Rockshox Pike 351 forks that will need some refurbish work doing on them. What mainline model of Rockshox would I be looking at for replacement parts (I think pike 426?) or are the parts specific for only that model?

The part I'm looking at replacing in particular is the damper, anyone know exactly which model of damper I would need for that?


texts: Experience with GPS trackers - thieves' reactions?

texts:
I'm interested in experiences what happens in reality when a bike with a GPS tracker is targeted / stolen by thieves.

There are GPS trackers with a SIM card that will send an alarm to your mobile when moved, and you can also query the location remotely by sending an SMS text message. Some are specially designed for bicycles and are hidden e.g. in the seatpost, but they are fairly expensive.

What I'm interested in are the cheaper ones costing around 20-40 UK Pounds. They are too bulky to be hidden inside the frame, so it's a question whether they are noticed by thieves or not. For example, they look like rear lights (but can be screwed to the frame so that it's at least time-consuming/fiddly to get them off).

My question is if there are any experiences how thieves actually react to those. In particular:

Are there examples that thieves have checked the bike for such devices, taken them off and nicked the bike anyway?
Conversely, are there examples that thieves didn't notice them and got caught?
Or perhaps thieves notice the device and then leave the bike, as it's an additional risk? The alarm is sent at the first movement, so if the owner is nearby, the thieve would get only a few minutes.

My bike is always locked with two locks, and it's in the medium price range (about 600 pounds inc dynamo lights, mudguards, rack etc., but a few years old and well-used), so it would be most likely targeted by reasonably equipped thieves to sell on the local second-hand market, but not really experts looking for expensive bike parts.

There is another question asking for experience, but that one is more focussed on the technical practicalities, with good comments about ease of use, need to recharge, mobile phone SIM card charges etc.. I'm aware of all that and it doesn't have to be repeated here. But there are no answers about experience with actual thieves.


texts: Does a high MTB seat post risk frame breaking

texts: On a full suspension MTB, does a high seat post (extending from frame by 25cm, 10" or more) contribute to frame weakness, should one look to have a bike with a tall seat tube, or are MTB's designed like this and shouldn't break?


texts:
I recently switched from a flat bar hybrid type bike to a drop bar endurance bike. I have noticed huge improvements in speed and climbing, but I feel like I lost a lot of confidence in handling. Granted, I am going much faster when I take turns, but I am afraid that I'm going to lay my bike down at higher speeds. Part of this comes from going from a 700x42c semi knobby tire to a 700x28c slick. Is this normal? What can I do to improve my confidence short of taking a turn too fast and laying my bike down? How do I know I'm taking a turn too fast?

Technique: as I'm heading downhill, I start to plot my line. I swing wide to set my approach. As I enter the turn I put my inside foot up and slightly point my knee. My outside foot is down and I press my weight down on the outside. I can hold my line until right before the apex, then I feel the need to let go. It's something about the extra effort needed to hold the line through the apex that really scares me. This is while moving at between 30 and 40mph.


texts: Rockshox Quadra 21R -- Removal tips for old brittle elastomer

texts:
I am tuning up the mountain bike I purchased in 1994, which has the old yellow Rockshox Quadra 21R front suspension fork.  I have found a nice video on YouTube which shows how to service the suspension, and replace the elastomers, and also found an elastomer replacement kit for the fork at suspensionforkparts.net.

My concern is, when I unscrew the top plastic nut to remove the old elastomers, that I have found the old elastomers to be very brittle, several of them breaking into pieces upon removal, with brittle chunks still stuck within my fork.  I can get the top-most units removed, but I know there is still at least one or two layers of elastomer in the bottom of the fork.

Does anyone have experience removing old brittle pieces of elastomer without damaging the tubes of the fork? My intuition says I should get in there with a long flathead screwdriver and a hammer, but I do not want to damage parts within the bottom of the fork that I cannot see.  I also will need to access the very bottom of the fork with a long hex wrench when the elastomers are removed to fully disassemble and service the the bottom shafts.  So, I am a bit worried that my screwdriver approach will jam the old elastomer pieces in the bottom of the fork, preventing access to the hex screw.

Thank you in advance for any tips you can offer on safely removing the old brittle elastomers.


texts: How to get back into racing after an accident

texts:
I had an accident where I broke my collarbone. I was totally out of cycling for 13 weeks. Before the accident I was racing in local MTB races. I'm still an amateur but I had good endurance to be a medium level racer (last cardiovascular tests score good / very good in general).

How do I get back to business? Should I start my training with easy, longer rides (base), or should I continue my training with a higher load?


texts: Do hardened chains cause more chainring and cassette wear?

texts:
I was reading the Sept 2016 issue of Bicycling where they were reviewing the SRAM NX series. The blurb for the SRAM chain (below) states that "The PC-1110 chain SRAM recommends for NX ... has performed its duties as well as SRAM's higher -end stuff. And because it hasn't had premium hardening treatments, it actually  may be gentler on your cassette and ring than a more expensive chain."

Any truth to this or is this just advertising-speak that snuck its way into the review? This is Bicycling magazine, after all.

Do hardened chains cause more wear?


texts:
Every day I commute on my cannonade caad9 and carry a crumpler bag with my 15" MacBook pro, some work documents and often a change of clothes if it's a hot or rainy day.

After years of doing this I'm thinking it's time I started thinking about my back and am considering panniers for the commute. Yes a caad9 is a road bike and not so much a commuter, I also do road riding and prefer using the 1 bike for everything.

Ideally it would be a pannier that could be very easily removed and be able to sustain the weight and clearance.

Does anyone have suggestions on good kit to get for this?

Thanks!


texts: My Shimano BR-Z57 front side pull brakes. Don't brake smoothly and jerks under braking. Does anyone have any suggestions on why & how to fix this problem?


texts: Threatening swerving by driver - should I report it? (Canada)

texts:
I'm curious to get some opinions on this from other cyclists. FYI this event took place in Ottawa, Canada.

On my work commute, there are about 3 blocks where I ride in the lane with cars because there are no bike lanes or sharrows, and I need to make a left turn in one of two left turning lanes, onto another street which also has no bike lane, and no shoulder. Details below in photo.

During that part of my commute two days ago, I stopped at a red light, in the middle of the left turn lane at the front of a line of several cars. The car behind me honked while we were still stopped, clearly wanting me to get out of his way before we'd even started moving. I stayed where I was since there was nowhere to go: another left-turning traffic lane to my left, and a straight through lane on my right that only buses can proceed through. After taking the left turn, I proceeded in the center of the lane for one block before signalling a right turn, after which I normally ride on the side of the lane because there is more space.

While I was riding the block right after the left turn, the driver who had honked at me pulled into the other lane to pass, then while passing, i.e. while right next to me, quickly swerved back about halfway into my lane, coming within about one foot of me while I was riding, then back out into his own lane. This was clearly meant as a threatening maneuver to scare me. The vehicle did not make contact with me.

I was able to memorize his license plate, make and model, and car color, and I took note of the exact time time, so I can certainly pinpoint who it was in a police report.

So I'm wondering if it's worth reporting something like this to the police, or will that just be an exercise in frustration?

If anyone has any tips or suggestions on reporting something like this, I would appreciate it. (Again, this is in Canada, so any locally relevant tips would be great)


texts: I’m thinking about building a fixie and was wondering what are the best types of frame, wheels etc to use and how long the whole building process may take?


texts: What is the lever on the head of my floor pump for?

texts:
I have a Wrench Force floor pump.  There is a lever on the head of the floor pump which can be moved into one of two positions.  What is this for?

The pump automatically selects the correct valve and there is a separate button near the pressure guage to release pressure so it is for neither of those functions.


texts: Got two bikes, one of them is more exhausting to ride, what can it be?

texts:
I have owned a bike for many years, it's a cheap one but it's perfectly fine.
Recently, I've bought a bike for my girlfriend, second hand from someone quite clueless about bike maintenance.

Mine is 26" front and rear suspension 2.125 tires, 3x7 gears.
Hers is 26" hardtail 1.95 tires, 3x6 gears

When I bought her bike I had to ride it home, a 15km ride, and after that I was exhausted.
I trued the wheels, aligned the brakes, did a little test ride and it was fine.

My girlfriend said it was much harder to ride than mine. I felt that too, but was not sure if it's just because it's hardtailed and the ride is much stiffer. Rode it today again, and it's really much more exhausting than riding mine.

Wheels spin freely and don't have significant play.

Any ideas what should I check ?

Update:
About geometry and fit, I can feel almost instantly that something is not right with the ride, but can't put my finger around it.

Brakes are V-brakes. Both tires are chunky mtb tires. As I'm 35kg heavier than my girlfriend mine are pumped to 55 psi while her's to 45 psi. When the bike is upside down everything is as smooth as butter. Crank, chain, freewheel, spinning freely. Wheels are spinning for a long duration of time. All bits and bolts aligned and tightened so nothing moves, rubbing, catching under load.

As more testing was done, it seems the bike won't roll quite well as mine, while on my bike I can pedal some and roll some, on the same bit of road, on the other bike I won't stop pedaling in order to continue going.

Another clue is weird knocking sound with the rhythm of a car turn signal relay.

I now guess it's the hubs, but I hope its fixable by just overhauling and without replacing, have to get some cone wrenches to check them.

Fixed:
It was the rear hub, whole assembly was loose, and the most shocking thing : there was one ball bearing missing on one side, 8 of 9 balls, I don't know how much it affects the performance but i'm sure its not recommended (ordered new bearings), even more, the freewheel assembly itself was loose as well, so I overhauled it too, it was a bit hard, lots of tiny balls but I managed it quite well.


texts: Can a 12 speed Shimano micro spline cassette be used with SRAM Eagle 12 speed components?

texts: Is it possible to use a Shimano 12 speed micro spline cassette with a SRAM Eagle 12 speed chainring, derailleur, and possibly chain? Or are there any incompatibilities, such as a Shimano chain also needing to be used?


texts:
I use tubeless tires ranging from 30 to 40mm in width. When I puncture and the sealant doesn't cut it, I plug the hole with a Dynaplug.

On longer rides, I carry a spare tube (or two) just in case. It occurs to me that a tube inserted into a tire that already has a Dynaplug in it will instantly puncture, since it essentially inflates directly into a spearhead. Hence when I get home after plugging my tire (or, at the latest, when inserting a tube by the roadside), should I cut off the plug head on the inside so it will take a tube, or will this compromise the seal?


texts: Im going to a 1x is there a freewheel with more than 34 t on the large gear/cog?

texts: My problem is that I'm going to a 1x I need more than 34 teeth on my large gear cog does any know of a freewhee with more than 34 teeth on the largest gear cog on a freewheel?


texts: Can I mount a wheel with a narrow hub to a wide frame?

texts:
Suppose I have a 120mm hub with a long axle, that I want to mount in a frame with 130mm dropouts. In principle, it seems to me that this should be fine, but I want to confirm this. One immediate issue I can see is the spacing for things like a disk brake caliper will be off, but again, adapters for this seems to be fairly widespread. I also imagine that spacers on the axle might be needed to keep the wheel centered when inserting.

This question looks at a similar issue, but the suggested answers amount to "buy the correct width hub". Supposing this is not possible, is it really just as simple as buying some spacers and making sure the wheel fits snugly and evenly? Am I missing something important here?


texts:
I have a urban commuter bike. Since last couple of months, the spokes at the rear wheel keep breaking after each ride. I changed the broken spokes couple of times. Also I replaced all the spokes. Same thing keeps happening. I weigh around 90 Kg. I have had the bike for 2 years and covered only 6000 Km. I check the spokes before going for a ride. Almost never have I found a loose spoke and yet after the ride I find one broken. Should I replace the whole wheel or just the rim/hub? Is my weight the problem here?

Edit- 1) Being a complete amateur in the field, I didn't know what details mattered. The wheel is Double walled 36H with double cross lacing (Both sided).(This is an assumption. I am attaching photographs to make things clear.)
2) I didn't change the spokes myself. I had it done from a shop.
3) I go over the curb or rather potholes  (We have a lot of those here in India) moderately hard.


texts: How can I learn to take care of an old (70s era) road bike/get it back to working condition?

texts: I found my mom's old road bike from the 70s tucked away in a corner of our attic. It's not in great condition and is pretty rusty. I don't know a lot about bikes from a mechanical or upkeep point of view but would love to use this bike as an opportunity to really understand them and work on my bike mechanics skills.


texts: Canyon Ultimate R8000 front derailleur - can't get low enough

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I have a Canyon Ultimate CF SL.

I have installed an R8000 Ultegra front derailleur. I am finding that even when the limit screw is dialed right out that when in the little-big combo (little front, big rear) the chain is still scuffing on the inside edge of the derailleur cage.

I have tried dialing out the lower limit screw, ensuring there is no cable tension, and ensuring it's properly aligned with the chainset. The chainset is 6800 50-34.

Any ideas what is going on and how I can rectify this issue?


texts:
If I order a Fat Bike online it will come in a box.
Is the assembly hard to do for someone fairly good with their hands?


texts: Finally I bought my new hydraulic disc brakes (Shimano M-446) and installed it on my bike . It was a little difficult to adjust the calipers  , because the space between the pads is smaller than on my previous brakes (Hayes Stroker Ryde). But finally I had managed to align them properly and went for a test ride . When I sat on my bike I heard the rotors rubbing but only on cornering and turns . I got out of it and rotated the wheel but everything was OK when. What a mystery ? Why the rotors are rubbing only when I am sitting on the bike ?


texts: Stock 10 Speed Shifters with 9 Speed Transmission

texts:
I have a bike that was built with 10 Speed Campagnolo Veloce Shifters, 9 speed Veloce rear derailleur, and SRAM 9 speed cassette and chain.

I found a page on the builder's website that states they do this on purpose and that with proper cable adjustment, it works.

I've spent hours trying to get the adjustment right but some gears always slip from the indexing being off.

Thanks!


texts: What maintenance should be done on a bike pump to keep it in good condition?

texts: My zefal hp x 4 full frame bike pump internals have rusted out.   I now have a Lezyne mini pump.   What maintenance should I do on the pump to make sure it does not rust out?


texts: Replace rear deraileur without breaking the chain

texts:
I currently have a Shimano Dura Ace 10 speed rear derailleur with a 12-25 cassette. For some hilly rides I'd like to change to a 12-30 cassette.

The maximum the rear derailleur can handle is 28, so I'm thinking of getting a Shimano 105 RD. I'd like to be able to switch between these two set-ups but fear that breaking the chain each time is not a good thing to do.

Is it possible to change the RD without breaking the chain by taking apart the pulley wheels?

Also is it possible to fit a 12-30 cassette on a Shimano Dura Ace 10 speed short cage RD?


texts: Need cycling eyewear, but fogging is a big problem

texts:
I'm commuting in temperatures ranging from -10 to -25C without windchill factored in. I have a typical pair of interchangeable lens wrap around cycling glasses. I find that they, without fail, immediately fog up when I ride due to the moisture in my exhalation. Wearing a balaclava as I sometimes must doesn't help.

I'm considering trying to find a cheap pair of ski goggles...

Given the poor road conditions, eye protection from debris and dust is imperative. How do other very cold weather commuters deal with this?


texts: How to reinstall a tension screw of a V - brake that been fully unscrewed

texts: I just bought a new showgun mountain bike and I was loosening the tension screw and it came completely out and I'm having a problem putting it back in


texts: Is anyone really convinced of ANT + technology/benefits?

texts:
I want to replace a computer with a new one (triple wireless) cadence, HR and speed but am in two minds as to if I should get a comp with ANT+. They seem more expensive and for what I will use it for, I don't need the connection to an app/computer.
Comments?


texts: Smartphone app that alerts when a rider is left behind

texts:
I belong to a few off-road bicycle in groups. We ride during the day and at night.
Does anyone know of a smart phone app that would alert the bicycling group leader when one of the group is left behind, meaning when they are more than certain distance far away?


texts: Upgrading cassette to give bigger bottom gear

texts: On e.g. a Giant Stance, can the lowest gear on the cassette be upgraded to a higher tooth count just by only changing that cog?


texts: How do people with arrythmia manage the problem that most bycicle heart rate monitor devices cannot measure accurately their heart rate?


texts: What pressure should I run? Front versus the back wheel?

texts: I assume it is common sense you should run a lower pressure in the front wheel versus the back. I weigh 175 lbs (79kg), I have tires with max 120 PSI (8.3 bar), what PSI should I run in the front and the back tire on my road bike? I use a 700x25 tire (25-622 ISO/ETRTO).


texts: Since misunderstood question here, a new question with narrow scope. So what are equipments need for frame-building?


texts: Will magnetic pedals interfere with ebike batteries or motors?

texts: I am wondering if magnetic pedals would induce current in mid-drive ebike motors or batteries.  I am assuming for theoretical purposes, they would, because all oscillating magnetic fields induce a current in everything conductive within their lightcone, but for all practical purposes, the effect would be so negligible as to be unmeasurable, but I don't really want to do the calculations myself.  Is there any research out there on this, or can anyone do any napkin calculations?


texts: I'm looking at a couple of cruiser bikes on Craigslist.  I want to take them to my beach house for guests.  How can I tell if the rims and spokes are steel or aluminum?  The steel spokes on an expensive cruiser recently started rusting and popping and I don't want that to happen again.


texts: Help identify antique rear steer tandem bike

texts: I'm trying to identify an antique tandem bike.  I have looked at over 6000 of them on the internet with no luck.  Many are similar, but this one has some unique items.  Not the top rail, it stops at the passenger seat.  The bottom frame rail is quite beefy in comparison to others.  It has dual drum brakes.   The rear steering setup is very crude looking, like a prototype.  It appears to be a 6 speed bike.  The head logo has a sticker over it, so I can not see the head logo, but I will try to remover the sticker soon.


texts: Looking for ideas on how to track bike wheel rotations or distance traveled

texts:
I want to build a hack where when my stationary bike hits 0.1 miles, it sends an information to a webserver which would trigger a web API call.

I understand how the webserver and API call would work. I wanted some ideas on how the said hardware(mcirocontroller or other) would function on the bike itself.


texts: I have a strange creaking that sometimes occurs when I just started to pedal from stop. And strangely, it only happens when I use the smallest front chainring and smallest rear cog. The creak doesn't happen each revolution, only when pedalled hard or from the start. What causes this?


texts: Larger sproket on a single speed crankset?

texts: I recently bought an urban bike that comes with a single gear crankset with a 42 tooth sprocket and an 8 speed rear with 12-36 teeth. I would like to swap out the front sprocket to a larger one to gain more top end speed. I'm thinking 48-53 teeth depending on what I find. I wonder how I would go about doing this. Can I just screw off the 42 and attach a 48 to the existing crankset and then lengthen the chain a bit? Or would I need to purchase a new crankset? Would I need to adjust the rear derailleur if I run a larger front sprocket?


texts: Mechanical disc brakes lacking stopping power

texts:
I bought a carbon road bike about 4-5 months ago with Tektro Spyre dual pivot mechanical disc brakes.  Love the bike except for the brakes :(

Brakes are not too bad on the flat but when going downhill with my hands on top of the drops, i have to use all my hand strength to stop and even then it doesn't stop straight away.

This is my first bike with disc brakes and I am wishing I didn't buy it.
The husband has the 'normal' brakes on his and they are fantastic.

Options offered by a bike shop were - sell the bike and get a new one (love everything except the brakes about this bike and they're sort of important :)), change the brake pads and they would bed them in for me by riding the bike for hours, change the brakes to hydraulic.

Would appreciate any advice about which way to go here.  Obviously i am looking at the cheapest option first which is to change the brake pads.....thoughts???

Many thanks
Cath


texts: Are there any bluetooth speed sensor with data logging ability?

texts:
I use my bike mostly for getting around town. First I used smartphone gps apps to record my trips, but I often forgot to start or stop recording. Then I used a bicycle computer, but I didn't like it too, because I had to remove it from the handlebar every time I locked my bike on the street.

The ideal device I am looking for is similar to any bluetooth speed sensor, but can record my speed (or at least total distance) without my phone, has decent battery life, has bluetooth 4.0 connectivity to download recorded data once in a while, and I can leave it on the bike.

I do not need wires, screens, just a small smart sensor, which can record data on its own. Is there anything like that on the market?


texts:
My daily commute consists of a quite steep last part (around 1 km with average 12% steepness). On my way back home when going downhill, I have to extensively use my brakes to (more or less) keep the speed limit of 30 km/h, and to avoid risks of course. Is there an optimal "brake strategy" to reduce the wear on my brakes? For example, is it better to use them in "intervals" (going to 35-40 km/h and then braking back to 25), or use them constantly (keeping around 30 km/h)?

EDIT: Rim brakes


texts: Why does my inner tube have brown liquid inside? Now with internal photo

texts:
I flatted the front wheel going up a climb the other day - I heard the pop and the PSSSSHH, and I could see a geyser of pale "steam" or vapour coming out the puncture.

I swapped out the tube for the spare and continued, but noticed the tube was wet inside the tyre.  It hasn't rained on my bike for months.

When I got home I patched the tube, and noticed a lot of dampness around the hole.  When inflated it bubbled like a mud pool.  The tube also felt squishy and I couldn't push all the air out when stowing it later.

I guessed there was some water inside, so the tube was left hung up with the presta valve at the bottom and unwound.

8 hours later this is what it looked like underneath:

Bigger photo of the pool - this is 10 hours of draining time:  Quantity is about 5-6 dessert-spoons full (estimated)

The liquid was runny not viscous, and was clearer on top with the colour sunk to the bottom.   The coloured bit looks like mud, or a suspended powder

The tube is labelled as "CST 700c 19-23" and a long number  There is no mention of any sealant or puncture resistance to this tube.

Why does my tube have brown liquid in it?

EDIT:  I removed the valve core and tried to purge the goop using a rolling motion.  It didn't work so I junked the tube.  I cut it open to see what was blocking the open valve, and it looked like this:

Not the best photo sorry, but its a jelly-like mass with many black dots like grains of sand.  I suspect these are suspended fragments of butyl rubber from the inside of the tube.

TL;DR?  Squishy tubes are bad - buy a new one.


texts: How to store bikes inside a house or unit with limited internal space?

texts:
Between my girlfriend and myself, we have 5 bikes of which 3 would ideally be stored inside (the two road bikes and my duallie). However, my house is a relatively small terrace house which doesn't have huge spare rooms on the ground floor for bike storage.

What is the best storage solution you've seen for keeping the bikes inside that:

Is compact and keeps the bikes relatively out of the way,
Allows the bikes to be easily accessed for going on rides,
Preferrably doesn't involve permanent fixtures on the wall, and
Looks good?


texts:
When looking for a compact bike for storage and carrying reasons, a folding bike seems a great deal. But how do folding bikes perform for trips longer than 20km ?

I'm looking for a bike I would use for commuting with important traffic and frequent stops (Paris), together with touring (Europe). The bike has to be compact enough to be stored in a small flat and to be taken in trains and carried inside train stations.
Brompton bikes are known to be stable and robust. But due to the position of the rider and the size of the wheels, these folding bikes are never used for long trips (more often 30km, but also few 150km trips travelling between cities). Does it exists any kind of hybrid bikes which would combine both compactness and comfort with long distance ?

I've tried the Grasshopper FX a foldable recumbent bike, which doesn't seem to be great for city commuting. How do 700c foldable bikes perform ?


texts:
I ride a cyclocross about 50 miles a week. About half of the mileage is spent on roads, the other half on single track trails. In the space of 3 weeks I have had the tubes pop 5 times. Once the back tube popped while riding on the road near my house. The other four occurred while the bike was hanging in my apartment.

I have double checked the interior and exterior of the tires for debris or objects and found none. I ensured tires were inflated to proper pressure and that the rim guard strips were in the correct place. I purchased the bike about a month ago from the neighborhood bike shop.

Is there anything I am missing? My current hypothesis is that the tubes degraded in the shop and spring leaks due to age. If that is the case, is it proper to ask the shop to replace the tubes with new ones?

Edit: August 2016

Hundreds of miles later on the same tires, rims, rim tape I have not had a single flat. I replaced the problematic tubes and tried to hold all other variables consistent. I was not able to determine the cause of the problems but it does appear the tubes that came installed from the bike shop were more brittle than expected. This could have been due to shop storage. Extended exposure to heat or light can weaken butyl tubes despite being more resilient to weathering and attack than natural rubber.


texts: Mating Brifters and MTB drive train and disc brakes - Marriage or Divorce

texts: Looking to buy a Salsa-Cutthroat equipped with SRAM Rival brifters; a 1X drive train (11-42t rear cassette RAM Rival long cage deraileur); SRAM GX 1000 crankset; and SRAM Rival Hydraulic Disc Brakes.  The problem is my old legs need a 2X drive train.  Can I convert the above system to a 2X by adding a front deraileur, double chain ring (38-24t), and second brifter or is converting to a 2X much more involved?


texts: Do I need a separate dishing tool for building wheels with park tool TS-2.2 truing stand?

texts: I'm trying to get started with some wheelbuilding. I've got a Park Tool TS-2.2 truing stand. Can I just rely on the calipers to provide a guide for centering the rim and dishing rear wheels or will I need separate dishing tool?


texts: Properly sizing a frameset online (Ritchey Road Logic)?

texts:
Longtime lurker, first-time poster. My frame is cracked and I have mostly decent parts so I am thinking about just buying a frameset and paying the LBS to move stuff over. A friend suggested I look into steel frames since I want a metal frame and don't race a ton, climb hills and long distance. After Googling I am now enamored with the Ritchey Road Logic frame. But the closest dealer is 200+ miles away. So now my challenge is to buy this frame online in the right size.
Height: 6-6'1"
Inseam: ~31.5", 800 mm
Current bike stack/reach: roughly 570 mm, 400 mm; not provided by the manufacturer).
According to the Ritchey guide that would put me at roughly a 55 cm frame (stack/reach 567/395). The next size down (53 cm) is 549/391, and the size up (57 cm) is 587/401. Current non-Ritchey bike is a 53 cm.
The head tube and seat tube angles mostly match up with my current bike, less than ~1 degree difference. The standover height (797) is 20 mm higher on the Ritchey but that's probably because my bike has a sloped top tube. But the 53 cm is closer to my current bike.
So two questions:

What else can I compare between the measurements to make sure 55 cm is more or less in the ballpark of what I need? Should I aim for smaller?
What's easier frame-wise to make adjustments with as far as stem length/angle/saddle position? Sizing up or down?

Many thanks.


texts: Proper fork length for a bike with 5.5 inches of rear shock

texts:
I purchased an older Santa Cruz Blur frame today.  From what I can gather the shock mounted on the frame gives 5.5" of travel.  I'm looking to buy a fork to match.  Do I need to go with a 140mm fork, or would something like 120 work?  What are the problems associated with differing lengths of suspension between the front and rear?

Thanks for any suggestions.


texts:
I plan to buy a tracking watch/device and I'm looking for recommendations. Two key features that I can think of are

heart rate monitor
gps tracking

I think that Polar M400 provides these features, but I was hoping to get some educated advice.


texts: What is the the difference between the new MTB Altus, Alvio, Acera?

texts: What is the difference between these derailleurs. I want to change my derailleur and don’t know which one is better.


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I've recently acquired a retro steel bike which needs some work.
Has anyone ever seen a freewheel with this type of locking system? I haven't been able to find any tool which seems like it would be designed to open it. Note the splines are opposite from a normal lockring (ie: small gaps on the outside).
I've heard some older freewheel bikes have 'unremovable' freewheels- is this perhaps one of them?
There are no identifying marks or brand logos.

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcbXT.jpg)


texts: What are the main improvements with road bikes in the last 23 years that the rider would notice?

texts:
Back when I was a younger man I bought a road bike, a 1998 Giant Kronos.  It has a frame made from aluminum tubes, a triple chainring in front, and a 7-sprocket cassette in back.  By US standards, it was an entry-level quality road bike from a bike shop.  I rode the bike solo for about five years, and then moved to a different area and hung the bike up on hooks for nearly a decade.  I started riding it again, got hooked again, and this time I discovered group rides.  I've been having lots of fun, and I met some great friends.  I upgraded the bike's saddle, brakes, and pedals.  IIRC the bike weighs about 26 lbs / 12 kg with the frame pump, saddle bag and tools, and a full water bottle.
My friends have been gently urging me to consider buying a new road bike with an aluminum frame, or a more recent used one.  Maybe I could afford a used bike with a carbon-fiber frame.  My bike did stand out in group rides back in the pre-pandemic days, typically being the only one with a horizontal top tube, a triple front chainring, and a quill stem.  Now that I'm middle-aged I don't mind if my bike looks old-fashioned.  But I am slow, always in the group at the back of the group rides, and my main riding buddy has to wait a few seconds at the top of hills for me, so anything that makes me faster would be welcome.
So what's changed in road bikes in the last 23 years, broadly?  My friends say that bikes have improved tremendously since 1998.  I know they're lighter, but I could weigh any bike I was thinking of buying and see exactly how much lighter it is compared to my existing bike, so please don't focus only on weight.  What improvements would I notice in the saddle of a newer bike, besides just being lighter and faster?


texts: FSA Comet (CKM-7158T) crank removal problem. How to?

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I am dissembling an FSA Comet crankset, and I have removed the self extracting bolt from the drive side. But I cannot remove the crank arm, it is sitting super tight.

I am hitting it pretty hard with rubber hummer, and it doesn't move at all. Is there any way to safely remove it? I'm affraid I might damage my carbon frame.
Thank you!


texts: Why would a bike pedal backwards, but not forward?

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I found a bike in our junk pile and it caught my eye. So I decided to fix it up by putting a rear tire and a chain on it. Pedaling forward fails to move the rear tire, but I can freewheel backwards.

Why would this be?


texts: Can I use a 29er rigid front fork and still use 650b wheels (brakes are disc)? Any negative side effects?

texts: I have a Jamis Dragon 27.5 hardtail that I would like to convert to more of a gravel bike. It is hard to find a 27.5 rigid fork with a 1-1/8" non-tapered steer tube. Would there be any negative effects to using a 700c fork instead with 650b wheels? The brakes are disc (160, 140).


texts: How to fix new chain that switches gears when pedaling backwards

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I just recently replaced a chain that got incredibly beat up in the winter (it was rusted, and practically stiff when I removed it.)

I removed links from the new chain to match the length of the previous chain. The previous chain was the manufacturer installed stock chain.

It is a 3*8 - 24 speed configuration. I usually leave the front derailleur on 3, and make all adjustments on the rear.

If my bike is on the 4th cog or larger (so 4,3,2,1), the chain will "slip down" to the smaller cog if I pedal backwards.

So for example, if I am in 3x4, and I pedal backwards, the chain slips to 3x5. It corrects itself as soon as I start pedaling forward. If I try to pedal backwards any farther though, the chain just wraps around on itself and falls off.

The bigger the rear cog (for instance 3x1 or 3x2) - the slower I need to pedal for it to slip.

All comments & answers are much appreciated :)


texts:
I have a small spot of rust on the bottom side of my steel frame's top tube (Columbus Niobium tubing).  It's from abrasion during transport that I didn't notice until it was too late.  The spot is about 2cm x 2cm and most the worn area is white in colour (base coat or primer?) but there's a bit of rust forming in the center.

I'm not ready to get the frame totally repainted so what's the best way to get this patched up?


texts: How to fix bearing cup for fixings loose wobbly wheel hub of old bicycle?

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I have watched videos for Bicycle Freewheel Disassembly/Assembly, and disassembled my damaged bicycle. The back wheel of it started to Cranking, and by opening its part based of this video instruction:

I have bought one ball bearing for it, but it seems not fit in its hole as you can see:

Also you can see below that,there is some corrupted part inside the hole which I guess there must be something inside it like which I understand it is broken and detached to two part as you can see below:

So, if possible, I want to know how can I replace bearing cup(sample photo of cup, but not my case!)? Maybe by removing the bearing cup of other side or something else.


texts: Avoid problems with ratchet straps to fasten MTB shoes

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With shoes like those shown below, when you adjust the buckle to the most tight position, the release handle is blocked (IMHO, this is due to bad engineering but cannot be changed.) Usually, this happens to me during several hour bike rides after readjusting, i.e. tightening the ratchet strap. As a result, I have to use tricks like inserting thin sheets of metal between the buckle and the strap, which is especially tricky in places where you do not have those devices around.

The major question is, how can I avoid this with my existing shoes? E.g. I was thinking of "inserting something" so that the most tight position is blocked.

However, I am also wondering whether I am the only one who experiences this problem, i.e. whether I am the problem, by e.g. buying shoes that are too large (by common standards, this is not the case) or by feet that shrink much more than average during pedaling.

EDIT: Regarding myself as a problem, I should add that due to a rare type of blood cancer, my blood is "thicker" (which is a physically incorrect term) than average, resulting in a bad (micro)circulation, especially during long exercise. Hence, an optimum solution would not increase the chance for unwanted heating, e.g. by wearing additional socks.


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Does the Hollowtech II Ultegra R8000 crankset need to use spacers?
I just converted my bike from Praxis to Shimano (finally I have the whole groupset!). I had to replace the BB and cranks (duh) for this upgrade, I bought both brand new. Neither came with any spacers, I've installed the cranks and there was some rub on the front derailleur and the crank arm, which I've alleviated by turning in the front derailleur limit screw however it's awfully close.
Reading online there seems to be a lot of conflicting advice, this post says I need 3 spacers (2R, 1L), same with this post. Others say this crankset needs no spacers (3rd comment). My old Praxis cranks were wider and did have a single spacer on the drive side so maybe I should add one to the new setup.
But the question then is how many do I add, what size do I buy, where do I buy from. I've found 2 vendors (Amazon, eBay) that sell 2.5mm spacers for 68mm bb (my bb is 68mm), is that right? do they need to be Hollowtech II spacers? will any old one do?
Is the bike safe to ride without the spacers? it's going into the shop in a week to have the threaded brake reservoir screw removed & replaced + new front caliper so I will only be riding it on the trainer this week, should I sack my training off for a week to wait for spacers to arrive and fit before putting any miles on it? I've done a test ride and the bike is riding well, alot smoother than the praxis (probably because those bearings where knackered) and all gears appear to be indexed and performing as i'd expect.


texts: Why does my cantilever brake squeal *nearly* all the time

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One of my bikes has cantilever brakes on chrome rims.  With dual compound Koolstop Eagle 2 pads braking is adequate and I can rely on the front brake at least in the dry.

The back brake squeals like a stuck pig.  I could easily make it stop, but it's a much more effective warning than a bell or a shout when someone steps out in front, or when the lights change while passing stationary traffic. I like this feature.

I'll restrict this to dry conditions as wet rims obviously change the behaviour. I can drag the brake lightly without squealing, or lock up the back wheel, but intermediate braking almost always produces a loud squeal for quite a range of pressure.  My issue is the almost.  This morning was dry, and I tested over a number of stops without using the front brake.  All were from around 20 km/h (10--15miles/hour) and were planned but fairly sharp stops. Excluding when I skidded the back wheel on a dirty bit of road, it squealed with no thought on about 80% of the stops.  On the other 20%, no modulation could produce a squeal.  Why?


texts: Will changing pedals every week lead to long-term problems?

texts: I have clipless pedals that I love and my standard flat pedals with toe clips. However, the clipless pedals just aren't comfortable for me to wear without cleated/clipless shoes, and they tear up my regular shoes. I don't want to bring extra shoes with me every day to work, so every weekend I've been changing out my pedals for clipless and on Sunday evenings changing them back to flat for the week's commuting. I don't mind spending 15 minutes a week doing this, but will this lead to long-term problems, like the crankshaft/pedal getting stripped or getting stuck?


texts: I have tires that are fitted to my bike and are 2.1, because of this my rim is quite thin. Will I be able to change to 2.4 tires or will my rim be too thin. If so can you suggest a good rim size?


texts: Can you use shimano m8000 replacement cogs to replace Sunrace mx80 cogs?

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Can one use m8000 replacement sprockets 11T 13T 15T to replace the corresponding mx80 sprockets?

I appreciate the clusters can't be switched due 3 free sprockets and 2 clusters of 4 on mx80 vs 5 free and 2 clusters of 3 in the m8000, but what about the first 3 sprockets?

mx80
https://factoryjackson.com/2017/04/19/sunrace-mx80-11-50-11-speed-cassette/

m8000 cogs
https://www.hibike.com/shimano-cs-m8000-11-speed-sprocket-11-pa913bedaac0e23a55c569d6d78f42bc7


texts: How should I train for a hilly ride while living in a flat country?

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I'm kicking around the idea of riding the Curadmír in the spring of 2015 (almost 600km over 3 days across Northern Ireland), a ride that would obviously have a lot of elevation changes in it (~2000m/day). A year is a lot of time to prepare for it, except for one small problem.

I live in the Netherlands.

A country almost entirely flat and almost entirely below sea level. The biggest hill within 250km of my home is a highway overpass.

Short of getting on a train to the Kapelmuur every other weekend from October to May, how would you recommend I train for riding hills without, you know, riding hills?


texts: Is there a free speedometer app for Android phones which beeps if I am deviating from a pre-set speed?

texts:
I have seen that on bumps races, some coach signal to the team by blowing a whistle in different rythms.
Is there a free phone app for Android phones, which I can set a speed for my ride, and if I am deviating from that speed, it will beep differently?
Let's say I set it to 25 km/h, if I go below 23 it beeps, below 21 it beeps even faster... Same with 27 & 29, but maybe on a different tone.
I don't have a bike computer & usual speedometers, so I would like to utilize my phone to do this. I know that Strava can make audio announcements, but that is something I have to be a paying subscriber for.


texts: Will wearing a backpack on my chest make any difference on my health?

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It's commonly acknowledged that wearing a stuffed backpack during cycling is somewhat bad for your back.
I see a lot of people saying they have back problem because of the usage of backpacks during cycling over the years.

Will wearing a backpack on your chest make any difference on the effect of a backpack weight on one's back?  (picture below)


texts: Just bought new bike with disc brakes.  If I buy an upgrade wheelset do brake discs (rotors) come with?  Or do you have to buy them separately?


texts: Had the front derailleur adjusted, now it feels like the rear is skipping

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Here is the short version. I'm all for adding more once I know what that more is to help answer said question.

I work on the road. I take my Felt ZW75 (http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2013/Road/ZW-Series/ZW75.aspx) with me. It rides inside my work van to be nice to it as well as having in my possession after lunch. I had a full tune up done. Then, the front derailleur required two clicks to change gears. I took it to another bike shop and had that adjusted. All happy.

NOW, when I'm riding, and not necessarily under pressure, it feels as though the chain is skipping OR I'm changing gears and changing right back (on the rear cassette). It will do this 4 or 5 times in a row, then quit for a while. All under the same speed and pressure. It seems to not do it in some combinations, but that could be my imagination. It will act the same way on the trainer indoors as well.

I've really only ended up riding it once since the tune up, and three times (once indoors) since the weird skipping. So she is still nice and clean and oiled. In theory.

I am fully capable of taking it to yet another shop. However, I received a copy of the Barnett Manuel and a set of Park tools in a nice little toolbox for Xmas. I'd like to start learning to fix the thing myself on the road, since the whole take it back to the shop isn't exactly an option. The best answer I have found in the Barnett is either the chain, a cog, or the pawls (?!) are worn or dirty. But she really only has ~200 miles on her.

Thanks for the help.

Jennifer


texts: Would like to find out what is the brand of this bike I am rebuilding?

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I know is chromoly frame, and serial number starts with 8D30D334... I will add pictures, if anybody can help would be great...

Edit from a later post:

Yes, I found out that the tires had been replaced and many other parts.  And yes the tires were close to 35 or 33. We even had a hard time fitting the front wheel, the wheel seemed to be big for the fork.  It came out pretty nice. I will try to post some pictures.

The plastic part was a torn up reflector.

I ended up giving it to wife, and got myself a new Specialized Hardrock 29 MTB, and I am riding every day an average of 10 miles.


texts:
How often should I clean my bike?

I've used it several times over the summer, but only once in muddy conditions, should I clean it after every ride or once per quarter?


texts: Campagnolo Large Flange Pista (track) hubs

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I haven't any direct experience with vintage Campagnolo large flange pista/track hubs.

Can anyone tell me if there are issues with mounting a 70-80s era 5-6 speed road freewheel and using them just like any other road/race hubs?  (a freewheel with matching Italian threading, of course)


texts: Why is my used Ultegra 10-sp cassette wobbly to the touch on a new Ambrosio hub? All spacers present/correct and 11-sprocket well-seated before torquing 40nM lockring. I tried another (used) 10-sp 11-21 cassette on the same hub and there is no wobble for that one. Puzzled!


texts: 10 speed cassette/derailleur, but only getting 8 clicks?

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I've got a 2013 Giant Escape 0 Hybrid with a stock 10speed Shimano Deore rear derailleur.  My wife was riding the bike the other day, and somehow managed to shift in such a way that it popped the chain off the rear cassette and jammed in between the sprockets and the spoke protector.  Luckily no damage was done.

After putting the chain back on, I put the bike up on a stand to check/tweak the derailleur alignment.  The small sprocket and the large sprocket are properly aligned.  I can shift up and down with almost no problems; I seem to skip the third gear.

If I take the rear wheel off and click the derailleur, I only count 8 clicks; not 9.

I'm not sure what that means.  Nor am I sure how my derailleur can be properly aligned on the smallest and largest cogs, hit all the shifts except for one, and yet miss an index.

Is this an alignment issue?  Is there a problem with my shifter?  Is my derailleur whacked out of position?  How/why could I be "missing" an index?


texts: Derailleur hanger built-in/cast with frame — options if misaligned?

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As per the photos below showing visible misalignment of the rear derailleur hanger:

and secondly its construction (where it is built-in with the dropout and frame):

Please could you help me and describe options to repair this bent hanger?

I suspect a hanger alignment tool is only meant for use with a 'replaceable hanger'?

Thank you so much for all and any help.


texts:
I thought this would be simple.

The problem is that the entire brake assembly needs to be rotated to screw into a thread built-in to the fork. There's also a hex/allen hollow tube-nut at the back (see red arrows), but this doesn't do anything until the bolt has screwed through.

I was hoping to put the metal loop of the mudguard in front of the fork so the brake would clamp it tight (with a washer not pictured). But when you put the mudguard in place you cannot rotate the brake to screw it in, because the lever arms catch on the plastic mudguard.

Is there some trick to this bicycle-tetris that I'm missing or is this simply the wrong kind of mudguard for this fork/brake?


texts: Changing to rigid fork on C-dale Killer V 900 w 1.5

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I have a 90s era Cannondale Killer V 900.,  Believe it has the Headshock fork with the shock directly below the headset.

I am converting the bike to an electric commuter (please dont hate me or just dont send me hate mail).  I have a few other bikes - just dont like to get to work sweaty.

The ebike motor kicks out so much torque the recommend a steel fork.  I am a noob on bike maintenance and its tough to tell much info on the boards.

Anyone have a recommnedation for me.  Based on what I have gathered  I can get a 1.5 to 1 1/8 conversion piece and get a steel fork.

Can someone confirm this?  Also not sure on if I get threadless or threaded and if any differences exist in lengths? (i.e. do I need some spacers or something else.)  Someone also mentioned that it might look goofy going from a 1.5 thick headset to a skinny fork - - oh well.

Anythoughts much appreciated - - as indicated I dont know much so any specific detail or product link is awesome.

Love this sight.

Thx
Tom
tom_mccarthy@me.com


texts: Do I need a spacer on my crankset? (2x11 SLX, BB shell width 92mm)

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I have recenly changed my crankset from FSA comet to Shimano SLX.
I have a pretty large BB shell (92 mm) and there is a press-fit BB installed, so it doesn't protrude.
So how can I figure out if I need any spacer or not?
(FSA had one spacer on the drive side).

Thank you!


texts:
I have a bike with Tiagra 4700 hydraulic groupset and I want to lower the gearing from the present minimum 34/28. The one thing I'd not like to replace is the shifters:

These ST-RS405, while truly not being beauty contest winners, sit in my hands better than many others.
I do not want to move away from hydraulics and do not want to move to 11 speed (or to any non-Shimano shifters).

I know I can replace the derailer with any Shimano road 11 speed long-cage, which allows to use cassette up to 34T according to Shimano specs and I'm sure that it will handle 36T.

How can front gears be lowered? I absolutely do not need 50T. My preferred chainring combination would be 42/28, but:

FD-4700 is rated for min 46T larger chainring (and standard 16T difference). This might allow using 46/30, which I'd be fine with, but does anyone have practical experience with chainrings so different from the "native" 50/34?
What crankset could give me such combination not (much) spoiling the 43.5mm chainline? A road triple with inner and middle chainrings would do it; I'm looking around if there are doubles with that small BCD and road-ish chainline. I do not want to take an MTB double as nearly all of my riding will be on the larger chainring (I'll use the smaller one less than 1% of my riding time - but I do not want to dismount for that 1%).
The shifter is stated to work only with FD-4700. Really, cable pull ratio of Tiagra 4700 looks much bigger than the "Shimano standard". Does someone have experience successfully using any other FD with ST-RS405?


texts:
The (road) bike I bought 25 years ago is very similar to my current bike. (The derailleur on my new bike adjusts exactly the same way). The materials of my current bike are vastly different than the old one. Other than that it's all the same.

What are upcoming bicycle innovations, and if so what?

Considering the comments

Last week cruising through a bike shop, I saw a carbon fiber chain.
Have not seen any sort of radical shifting system lately.


texts: Why do I have to keep changing positions?

texts:
Despite riding seriously -- about 6,000 miles/yr -- for over 20 years, I apparently have some kind of obsessive-compulsion thing about always fooling with my bike fit.  (95 changes -- NOT a typo! -- last year alone.)  Seems to get worse every year.  Before resigning myself to this being a "mental" thing, anyone know if it's possible there may be a physical reason for this?  For instance, I use the "hands-off" test to determine the seat's fore/aft; I find it very hard to believe that some "mental condition" could result in me being able to pass the test with a 6 cm -- tip behind BB -- setback one day, then a few days later, I can't pass it unless the seat is 9 cm back!!!  And, yes, I've had several bike fittings.  (It's soon after those that I REALLY went nuts changing things due to the resulting loss in efficiency and/or pain.)  The fitters seem to be confused, too!  The range of their fits includes:

seat height (BB-seat): 81-82 cm

seat setback (BB-tip): 5.5-9 cm

bar reach (tip-bar): 53-56 cm

bar drop: 5-8 cm

After changing positions, it feels much better for a few rides.  Then, on one ride, the fit suddenly feels so screwed up, its as if I'm on someone else's bike!  I then recheck things, discover something has to be changed by a centimeter or 3.  Then it feels WAY better -- and is usually WAY faster -- until a few days later, when something is obviously wrong . . . and so on, and so on.

So, any ideas as to why -- besides the mental thing?  Anything to try? If it helps, I'm 6'2" with an inseam of about 36".  My torso is pretty short, relative to my legs, and I think my thighs are on the short side relative to my lower legs. (Guess I could average out all the fittings, and see how that works.)  I realize I may need a sports psychologist more than a bike fit expert, but I don't have the time or money for that!


texts:
I've bought the Shimano HG40 chain which is advertised as a 5,6,7 and I think 8 speed chain. I've just received it and it also says 15,18,21,24. (Obviously including the front gears). My bike is a 2x6 so it's got 12 gears, why isn't that listed and will it still work? Surely it has to since it seems to be one of the only chains for 6 speed.
Thanks, Harvey.


texts: Should my foot be able to step flat on the ground, when I sit on a bike seat?

texts: I was wondering, for a correctly sized mountain bike, or hybrid, should I be able to place my foot flat on the ground, when I sit on the bike seat?


texts: What is the most effective way to upgrade my Cervelo S2?

texts:
I bought my Cervelo S2 2013 model a few years ago.

It has Shimano 105 groupset and brakes, and originally Fulcrum Racing 7 wheels which I have upgraded for Planet X Carbon 45mm wheels. The rest of the components is general aluminium stuff that does the job and I often stick a pair of aluminium Profile aerobars on.

I mostly race short 10-40km as part of triathlons, but I also use it for longer rides and even "touring" (with a rucksack rather than panniers).

I know the standard thing to upgrade is the wheels, but since I've already done that, I'm thinking maybe a better groupset?
My question to the world is: what would be the most effective upgrade to make me faster?


texts:
In my previous question we determined that I probably need new chainrings. I was/am planning on replacing the chainrings, and leaving the original crank.

Now this bike is running Shimano 105 FC-5600 kit.  I refer to the Shimano drive-train compatibility chart here which says that that the FD-5600 front derailleur needs FC-5600,FC-5650,FC-R600 or FC-R550 front cranks.

Since I have to replace it, I wouldn't mind upgrading to a Ultegra-level chain-ring. According to (my reading of the chart), this is not possible. (which seems strange, I would have thought any 130BCD chainring with the same screw type should work. Is there a problem with derailleur clearance or something?)

1) Is this correct?

2) If so, is there a compatibility chart with other brands? (FSA/SRAM - obviously Campy wouldn't work!)

Thanks in advance


texts: How do I re-attach a crank that has fallen off?

texts:
I have already read My crank fell off, how do I re-attach it?, but it did not answer my question.

I was biking up a hill in first gear, and I felt my left crank was a bit loose. Never having had problems with my crank before, I kept going. Sure enough, the left crank fell off.

It appears there is a square hole in the crank which the axle goes through (which is also square). This is held on by a hex bolt about half an inch long. The bolt says "CH 12.9" on the head.

Below is a picture of the crank where it attaches to the axle. Note the threads. There is supposed to be a circular piece that goes into them and holds in the bolt. Unfortunately, it must have fallen out before the crank fell off and is probably in a ditch who knows where now.

However, I believe damage has also been done to the crank. I'm not sure if you can tell from this image, but there are dents in the hole, probably from the axle. I have tried to put the crank back on the axle, but I find it incredibly difficult. I decided against a hammer with a wood block because I'm not sure if that'll make it worse.

That's my problem. Here's my question:

Is this repairable? If so, how do I go about it?