texts: Replaced v-brake pads too late - how to check if rim is damaged?

texts:
I've just noticed that replacing the brake pads was overdue. The metal of the brake shoe started scratching the rim already some time probably (sorry, I know it hurts to read that...).

How to decide if the rim has been damaged permanently?

Edit: Judging with naked eye, I'd say rims are clearly concave. But not only for the rear wheel, also on the front wheel. That means I have to replace them?


texts:
During the last few years, I've had a broken saddle rail every year or so. It always breaks just in front, or just behind the clamp. I wonder what the reason could be, and how I can avoid this.

Here are two pictures:

Some information:

I'm ~75 kg (165 lbs), so not exactly heavy
I'm only cycling on paved roads, no bumps whatsoever, roughly 12 km (7.5 miles) / day
My bike is an ordinary city bike, Shimano Nexus 7 speed, roller brakes, size 37-622 tires, no suspension
Most (affordable) saddles over here in The Netherlands are by a single brand 'Selle Royal'. Therefore I expect the size of the rails would be the same for all of them, and shouldn't be an issue
Two years ago I replaced the clamp, because the old one looked worn out. This seemed to solve my problem, but today, I found it broke again

I found this question (Saddle Rail Failure?) but was wondering if there could be other reasons.

UPDATE 20 aug 2018

I spoke to the guy at the bicycle shop. According to him it is probably caused by a combination of the rails not being centered properly, and maybe also the way I ride over (speed)bumps. So Andrew, you were right after all, I guess (although I would have to wait another year to be sure ;-) ).


texts:
Today I have noticed that when I push the rear brake lever (hydraulic disc brakes) the rotor is a little bit bending , but it wasn't rubbing the caliper . I came to a conclusion that rotor is not centered in the caliper , and I tried to center it . I took the pads out , pushed the pistons , installed the pads back and even if I push the caliper all the way into the frame there is very little space between the inside pad and the rotor , and very big between the outside.
How can I solve this problem so that the rotor stands right in the middle of the caliper , I think this will also improve the braking power. I though to put some spacers between the frame and the rear adapter , but I am not sure if it is a good idea or no.


texts: Do they still make rear shocks with remote flow control valves?

texts: I have a 2007 Stumpjumper FSR frame, I bought the Elite model back in 2006, but it still has the same mounts as the Expert and Pro models for a rear shock with a flow control valve. I haven't been on top of the newest tech trends, so I don't know if flow control valves are obsolete already or not. Have they gone the way of the dodo, or are some bike manufacturers still putting them on their bikes?


texts: What are/were the differences between the various Shimano square taper cartridge bottom brackets?

texts:
There have been a number of different square taper bottom brackets by shimano in the last decades. BB-UN91, BB-UN72, BB-UN55, BB-UN26 among many others.
They often correspond to the different tiers of Shimano products (XT, Deore, Ultegra, Dura-Ace etc.).
But how did they actually differ on the inside? On the outside you can see that some used nylon cups while others used aluminium ones. Apart from that it's difficult to get information on the actual differences in their construction and design. What sizes were the ball bearings? What kind of seals were used? Did they all use the shell as the outer race, in order to use lager ball bearings as in the case of the famous BB-UN55? Which surfaces were hardened? Which parts got special weight reduction treatments (cutouts or alloy instead of steel)? What were the impacts of those measures on the longevity of the bb?


texts: Can someone help me identify this crankset type? And is it possible to replace only the cranks (and their axle) without replacing the chainwheel/front derailleur?


texts:
I'm renovating an old Peugot and need to replace the crank. It takes a clotted crank however I'm not sure on the size. I brought a crank previously and it didn't fit, I couldn't get it on the bike because it didn't slip on.

The amount of teeth required I'm ok with, more concerned with getting the crank on the bike.

Photo attached


texts: What can I replace a Shimano SL-M760 shift lever with?

texts:
My right-hand Shimano SL-M760 9-speed shift lever broke, and unfortunately I can't seem to find a new one online (I'm in Germany).

I'm a bit overwhelmed by the number of Shimano 9-speed shift levers available: SL-M370, SL-M390, SL-M580, SL-M590, SL-M770, SL-M970 all seem to do pretty much the same thing.

Differences in quality notwithstanding, could I use any Shimano mountain bike 9-speed shift lever to replace my SL-M760, or are only particular models compatible?


texts: bike suggestions for a commuter who takes an occasional long road ride

texts:
I'm shopping around for a new bike.  I ride 4-10 miles a few times a week and an occasional ~50 mile road trip.  I'm looking for recommendations on bikes similar to a SE Lager, Surly Steamroller, or Raleigh Rush Hour.

Ideally, I'd like the bike to have 3-gears, but it looks like the only way to have that is to custom build. Is this so?

I'm trying to stay within a $1200 or so budget, but this is secondary.


texts: Coded gesture for "I am looking for a place to stop"

texts:
When going downhill on mountain roads with no dedicated cycle path, it happens quite often that the cyclist becomes the head of a train of vehicles, as the winding road does not allow an easy and safe take over.

In such situation, I personally feel much safer if I can stop and let the train pass by (even though the drivers are not putting pressure, the idea of losing control of the bike while moving at 50-60 km/h with a lot of vehicles behind me is kind of scary).

I therefore search for a suitable place to stop like a parking area on the shoulder and when I find it I come to a stop there.

What I normally do to convey the cars behind me that I am scanning the road for a place to stop is to sit with my torso straight on the saddle, and then raise my hand before signaling I am moving to the side.

I am not sure this is easily understood by drivers, so my question is: is there a codified gesture for conveying the message: "I am looking for a place to stop?"

additional info

This question came to my mind after taking a two-way mountain road, with speed limit at 50 km/h and where my travelling speed was ranging between 30 and 50ish km/h.


texts: Wheel conversion to Fixed gear (threaded hub)

texts:
I would like to convert a wheel with a threaded hub to fixed gear.
Here the wheel:

Herer the "fixed gear set":

When I mount them together, there is no place to put the lock ring.
Without putting a lock ring, can I use it as a fixed gear?
Any other suggestions?


texts:
I'm restoring an old bike. I have removed two layers of paint on the forks to reveal the original chrome on the forks. Unfortuantly they have rusted, and it looks like it has gone through the chrome layers.

Is there anything I can do to restore the chrome finish (I want to do it myself)? Or is the only option to just paint the forks?


texts: Is it a good idea to get a narrower front tire and a wider rear tire on a road bike?

texts:
I am currently running Continental Grand Prix S 4000 in 23-622 / 700x23C front and rear. I am about to buy a new set of tires for my road bike and am fancying a smaller tire for the front and a wider tire for the rear. Actually Continental offers such tires as a set (GP attack and GP Force). Also note, that Motorcycles usually have a wider rear tire to support quick acceleration but still have dual disk brakes in the front to maximize brake force.

I tend to ride fast in a traffic situation where the majority of bikes travels slower. So I am often underestimated and have to brake sharply. While panic braking my bike tends to pulling, which I have learned to manage. I suspect a wider tire to reduce pulling, by developing more grip in low load situations. The weight balance gets shifted to the front, when breaking sharply and therefore the front tire does not skid even with much break pressure. The back tire on the other hand does only carry little weight and skid with the same brake pressure applied.

I am also facing periodical flat tires with a frequency of 1 per 10 weeks or so on the rear tire. I suspect a wider tire to pick up fewer glass splinters, by reducing the pressure. The rear tire carries the main load while non-braked riding and a wider one distributes the force to a bigger surface area thus reducing the pressure.

Update

Thanks for all the input. Your answers have helped me a lot in finding my decision.


texts:
I currently have a Trek 3500 Mountain bike which I use for commuting 34km total each day. I did put on thinner tires. My average speed is about 20 - 22 km/hr
I'm tired of the leaning forward all the time and was considering getting a "comfort bike" where the handlebars are higher than the seat.  This would provide a much more enjoyable view/ride. I'm thinking something like this:
http://www.primeauvelo.com/en/cypress-dx-42604-0014040.html

IMHO I am guessing (please correct if I'm wrong) that once you go non-road bike, the differences of hybrids are marginal.  I believe most (all?) hybrids have more or less the same top speed, and my question is - would a comfort bike be more or less the same as a hybrid, but a hell of a lot more comfy.


texts: I need some advice about upgrading my fork

texts:
I'm relatively new to biking, and even newer to know about the details about the components of the bike itself. I have a 2016, 29" Totem bike, with a rear coil shock and a front coil suspension (a Suntour XCT DS HLO 29). From what I can see, it's an older model of this one: http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/components/fork/XCT-29-5620.html

I generally like the bike and I've had good times with it along these years, but the problem is the front suspension is too basic and has scared me a couple times already, so I'm planning to upgrade it for something better, around $350 - $400.

The problem is I'm not exactly sure for this price range, what should I pick? Should I pick another coil based suspension or should I go for an air-based one? For this price range, are some Rock Shox acceptable options or should I look at some other brands? Can I get something with remote lock for this price range? What features should I look to make a long-lasting investment?

Sorry if the question is too broad, I'll share any other information or details required.


texts:
I know that this is a 'bi'cycle forum, but I'm going to chance it and ask for unicycle buying advice.

What should I look for when buying a unicycle? I probably will do some leisure riding with it, maybe ride it around NYC instead of walking.


texts: Strida single speed - upgrade to 2-3 speeds possible?

texts:
Would it be possible to upgrade a single-speed Strida to 2-3 speeds?
I know there is a Strida model with 3 speeds but the frame is different with respect to the one of a single speed. In particular, the 3-speeds model has a bottom bracket shell suitable to fit a Sturmey Archer KS3 (https://stridacanada.ca/product/sturmey-archer-ks3/).
Do there exist commercially available alternatives to fit in the bottom bracket sheel of a single speed?
Someone did it already, but they are unreachable. This is the post (in italian): http://stridaroma.it/it/works/kit-upgrade-2-speed/. This is the google translate version. If only I could de-focus this picture!

This is a closeup of the bottom bracket in place and the frame of a single-speed Strida.

Thanks,
Luca


texts: Identifying 1970s-80s Motobecane Special Sport

texts: I'm trying to identify the exact year/model of a Motobecane called the "Special Sport", which was bought in France. I don't know if the parts are all original, however: It has a Huret Svelto rear derailleur, but I can't tell what model the Huret front derailleur is. It has Motobecane-branded center-pull brakes. Lastly, it has a Maillard Helicomatic rear hub, which would suggest to me that it's an early-'80s model, but the rest of the bike doesn't look very '80s at all.


texts:
Simple question, however, I am used to cleaning my bike at my parents house, I use some eco bike spray stuff leave it for a little then rub and hose down (I normally get it quite dirty riding down dirt tracks in West Sussex, UK).

I am now at University and our flat has no access to a garden or hose pipe, the best place / possible way I can think to clean it is out on the pavement next to a busy road with a tub of water and a sponge.

Would anyone recommend taking their bike to a garage and jet washing it down? Anyone found a really easy way to clean their bike with limited space?

Don't forget to TF2, thanks.


texts: Is a "run-bike" equivalent to a bmx bike with no drivetrain?

texts:
My son is about to turn two and he really likes the Skuut Balance Bike, but is this functionally any different than a small Bmx bike with no drivetrain?

Update

Specifically, is a run-bike designed to be easier to balance (e.g. by changing the distribution of weight relative to a bmx bike)? by the way, I was thinking of bmx-style of equivalent size, not a true 20" bmx bike–

Since my original post, I have found that this type of bike is called a 'run-bike' and that they are made by multiple companies. However, I have never seen one in a regular bike shop.

Knowing the generic name, it was easy to find the wikipedia site and answer my own question 'no'. But I am still open to the possibility that there are differences.

I have found a related but distinct question on the best method to teach a child to ride a bike

Update 2

My son received a Kinderbike for his birthday. I decided on the kinderbike based on this NYtimes article and some Amazon reviews that suggested that the Kinderbike is of better quality than the Skuut.

Review

Indeed the Kinderbike uses 'real' (if cheap but sufficient) bike parts, including a real brake and headset. It even comes with a bell! I don't want to talk up the quality too much - while certainly better than what you might find at a box-store like Walmart (those bikes are often non-serviceable), but nothing like what you might find on an entry level adult bike. Out of the box, the rims were out of true, the headset was on too tight, and the tires smell like plastic fumes. But this is all fixable since the components are basically like a regular bike. The Skuut, on the other hand, apparently has plastic washers and cheap tires that make the bike overall not as durable. Although I prefer the aesthetics of a wooden bike, common sense chose durability.


texts: Drop stem on endurance bike to get the geometry closer to road performance?

texts:
So I'm planning to get this bike, possibly the later 2017/2018 model:

http://www.polygonbikes.com/id/bikes/description/2016-strattos-s3-black#spec

Which is a well known local brand and practically any bike shop near here should carry one.

Anyway, the bike has more of an endurance geometry, though I wanted a more aggressive one, they don't have one at this price range.

The question is, can I simply swap the stem to drop stem (negative rise) and move the stem down the spacers to get to a 'performance bike' position? or will it still be a different geometry altogether? I can't see much difference in the final position vs an actual performance bike, but I might have missed something.

If it makes a difference, I will be using this bike mainly for 'commuting' to work (I usually ride hard on threshold anyway), some climbing practice, and maybe a few amateur races just for fun.


texts: How to use Garmin's battery more effectively?

texts:
I've bought a second hand Garmin Edge 800 for a while ago. So far, I'm nothing but delighted about the device and the battery life. However, since I have to plug it in in order to upload my rides, it usually gets charged when plugged in so my battery level almost never gets under 50-60 percent, sometimes not even so.

That makes me wonder if I'm doing the right thing. About batteries, sometimes I hear that it's better to empty the battery and then fully charge it. What are your opinions about this? Do you do anything to extend your device's battery life? Or do you worry at all?


texts:
I recently saw a small clip about how to securely lock your bike.
I was wondering what are your tips for minimizing the chances of getting your bike stolen.

Here are a few of my tips:

use 2 chains
take the saddle off ( makes it less attractive, especially in a bike rack )


texts: Exact dimensions for Wheelsmith Rim Rods?

texts:
Does anyone have access to the Wheelsmith Rim Rod ERD measurement tool?

I need to reproduce this no longer manufactured tool.

Specifically, I need the length of the yellow portion of each rod, the diameter of the yellow portion of each rod, and the length and diameter of the alloy portion of the rod. Bonus points for the angle of the nipple seat at the join of the alloy portion and the yellow portion.

Can anyone help me?


texts: I just bought a Peugeot from southern France. I guess it from 1975-1980. Can anyone help me identify it? Are there any scans from the original catalog available online?


texts: When is it not okay to cheap out on bike parts?

texts: Cycling is a very expensive hobby. So I tend to buy stuff not from famous brands like FSA and so on. But is it safe to do that? Cheap handlebars will send me flying like Superman one day. What parts of the bike I should never buy cheap?


texts: Can you identify this freehub from a 2014 Boardman CX Comp?

texts:
I need to replace this freehub from my 2014 Boardman CX Comp as it's becoming incredibly sticky.
There's not a lot to identify it. It's stamped 'M M P' on the side. Trial and error has found an 11mm hex key to fit the the central spline to remove it. It's a 9-speed cassette.
I expect it's some kind of generic, relatively cheap hub but don't know enough about such things to identify a suitable replacement.


texts: Can one replace double chainrings with a singlespeed chainring on the original crankset/spider?

texts:
I have an 80's Peugeot steel-framed racer that I want to convert to singlespeed/fixed. It has a standard square-taper BB with a double chainring chainset. I can see the chainrings are removable from the spider and was thinking I could just remove them and replace with a singlespeed ring to save having to buy a whole new crankset.

Will this work or will I have problems with chainline? I have yet to buy a new rear wheel with singlespeed hub so it's quite hard to check if chainline will work. I presume it is possible to bolt the chainring to either side of the spider giving me a choice of two positions. Beyond this I'm not sure how I would adjust chainline if it's out.

Any general help/tips regarding conversion appreciated. The bike has horizontal dropouts (not a track rear fork) so tensioning shouldn't be an issue.

Here's a (not very good) picture:


texts: Why did I lose braking power after hitting a curb?

texts:
Recently I hit a curb on my bike. I heard a cracking sound, my front disk brake (cable) felt stiff, and I could feel a lot of resistance from the front wheel. I left it alone for a few minutes, and when I came back, the brake was back to normal, but I could hear some grinding in the front bearings. I also soon realized that I couldn't stop as quickly as before. Today I took the bearing apart, cleaned it, applied fresh grease and the grinding disappeared. The brakes still were noticeably weaker. I tried smoothing the rotor with sandpaper, but that did not help. What could be the reason?
Additional information:
I was moving at around 25 km/h, the curb was about 3-5 cm
The axle is straight, the dropouts seem to be fine
The cable shroud seems to be a bit deformed, but that deformation does not change how far it can retract
I took the whole caliper apart, sanded the rotor and pads. After reassembling, I think it is a little better, but not as much as it was before. Or that's just placebo, I'm not sure.


texts: Bike commuting on the Captial Crescent Trail in Washington DC

texts: I am moving to the Washington DC area and will be working in Bethesda at the NIH. It looks like living in/near Georgetown and commuting out on the Capital Crescent Trail could be really nice. I was curious what the path conditions are like (e.g., potholes, speed bumps, road crossings, and bike/jogger/car traffic). I would also be interested in other areas that would provide a nice sub 10 mile bike commute to Bethesda.


texts: Is there any reason to switch to the Giant Aircap headset expander? Any reason not to?

texts:
I ride a Giant road bike with OD2 carbon steerer. It was originally built up with a standard expander plug, but was supplied with the glue-in Aircap expander as well. Im not sure whether to use it and there is very little information about these online.

I've only been able to find two things about it so far. Apparently it's a bit lighter, but I couldn't find how much lighter. It seems to also be a lot more hassle if you install it then want to cut the steerer again. If that's the only downside to it, then I'm happy to use it because my steerer is already cut down to have no spacers underneath. Is there anything else that should affect my decision to use this or not?


texts: How to turn off Live Segments on Garmin Edge 520 for good

texts:
How do you completely disable Strava Live Segments on the Garmin Edge 520? I know how to disable segments on my device, and I know how to delete them, but after doing either of those, they ultimately appear back on my device after riding on new segments or the same ones.

I personally dislike the live segments, because most of the time I would just like to stay focused on the ride at hand and worry about if I PR'd after I'm done riding. As someone that leaves the sound on so I'm alerted every five miles, the sounds the Live segments make are very irritating. I know I can just hit up/down a couple times, but this gets really annoying, especially when I have gloves on (winter and all).

Please help, or at least confirm this isn't possible so I can start bugging Garmin to fix this in an update. I love everything about the 520 except this one "feature".


texts: Would like to identify a late 80s/early 90s lo-pro bicycle's manufacturer and tube type

texts:
I just purchased this bike locally in Southern California and thought it would be straightforward to identify but I've asked around and no one seems to know.

The specs are:

Lugged steel (fork crown lugs match frame)
No serial number or builder's mark (likely repainted)
Mostly SSC/Zap Mavic components (suggesting French or custom build)
Gipiemme "patent" front and rear dropouts (124.6mm rear spacing)
Geometry mostly resembles an early Pinarello Prologo (not TT or track version), due to curved seat stays (only lo-pro frame I've seen with this feature!!), shape of upper seat stay tubes and their meeting point on the seat tube lug, but differs in placement of shifter boss, shape of rear drop out, and lack of builder's stamp.
It has a small peg/tube on the front of the upper seat tube of unknown purpose.
BB shell is 68mm, unknown threading (until I can remove the Phil Wood BB).

Please see attached photos. Any leads appreciated.


texts: Are tubeless tires the solution to frequent flat tires?

texts:
I have owned a Trek FX3 for about 6 weeks and I have suffered 3 flats in the last 4 weeks (front and back tires).   All my cycling is on road (almost exclusively in the cycle lane). The shop I bought from have recommended that I go tubeless with sealant which I am a bit nervous about.

With all the flats I have managed to get home by simply inflating the tires with CO2, and I would have the tube replaced after that (not repaired).

I have 3 related questions:

Will the tubeless tire setup generally be more reliable?
Will I know when I get a flat with the new setup?  I worry with this setup that I might not realize that something has punctured my tire and end up with catastrophic tire damage from not removing the cause of the puncture.
I notice that the CO2 is very cold and was wondering if this might make the sealant less effective?

Thanks in advance.

UPDATE

I opted to try tubeless and the new tires would not fit on the rims no matter what the bike shop tried.  It turns out that there was a "tolerance issue" with the wheels on my bike.  This might explain why I had so many punctures (or maybe not?!)    I ended up getting free replacement wheels which are supposedly a lot better than what I have (They cost more than my entire bike!!)  Not sure what benefit this is to me other than the ride does feel a lot more comfortable.


texts: Feasibility of coupling internal hub gear and derailleur

texts:
Price considerations apart, would it make sense to install together an internal hub gear and a derailleur?

I was thinking of it as a viable way to avoid having the front gears.


texts: I need advice on what type chain to replace old chain. Front derailleur 3 gears, rear derailleur 8 gears.


texts: How should exactly the brake cable be fixed to V-brake caliper?

texts:
Regarding the V-brake calipers, where the cable is tightened with a screw:
Should the cable go between the head of the screw and the washer (1), or should it go between the screw head and the body of the brake caliper (2)? And most importantly, why? (Is either of the two dangerous, e.g. could the cable slip or break?)
(1) Cable between the head of the screw and the washer:

(2) Cable between the head of the screw and the body of the brake:


texts:
Saturday I went on a ride with the local cycling club. At a certain point in the ride (after about 20 miles/32 km), I was extremely tired to the point that I decided to get off of the bike and walk for a space.

After dismounting I became so dizzy that I fell over (and don't remember falling over).

Oddly enough, I rode the same route the week before without any problems.

I am curious to know if anyone else has had this problem and what steps they took to effectively deal with it.

The two possible causes that I am already aware of are:

I am taking blood pressure medications (amlodipine and lisinopril)
I am not entirely sure my bike is a good fit; after about twenty miles I find it very difficult to find a comfortable position while riding.

I was dead-dog tired at this point in the ride (I had just gone up a fairly steep hill in a stiff headwind), and that probably exacerbated whatever is going on here.

Clarification:

I have spoken to my physician about this, about nine months ago when this first happened to me. His advice was that this was probably due to the readjustment of blood pressure after changing positions. This makes sense, as it only happens once I dismount.
My meds are for high blood pressure, so they could be doing the job too well.
I actually drank more on the ride where I was dizzy than on the ride where I was not, but the doctor has advised that I drink more, so I need to scrape together some funds for portably fluids.

Update

Went out riding with the local cycling club. I had a bit more to eat before leaving the house, and I brought along a whole lot more water, and a banana which I ate when the group stopped. I was fine until the 26-mile point, when I got a flat tire. None of the problems of the prior week appeared.

Final Update

I did the Houston MS 150 in April. I downed a banana or and equivalent amount of food at each stop, and drank my fill of water as well, and drank every time my mouth felt dry on the road. No dizziness at all.


texts: Can I run a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed wheel, but also keep running 10 speed on a 10 speed wheel?

texts:
I bought a second hand cyclocross bike (running Shimano 105) and I ... love it. I've been doing some short commuting on it as well, but the nobbled tires are copping a pounding.

I've got a spare set of 11 speed wheels kicking around home that came with my road bike that I upgraded. My question is, I want to put some wide road tires on the 11 speed wheels and keep the CX tires on the 10 speed wheels and just swap the wheels in and out depending on what I feel like doing.

Obviously I'd prefer not to have to tune the gears every time that I swap the wheels.

I haven't tried yet because I don't have a spare 10 speed cassette.

What's the best minimum fuss solution?


texts: Dahon D7HG Handlepost hinge loosens pivot point

texts:
I have a Dahon Vittese D7 HG, bought in Perú 1 year ago, my handlepost hinge begins to sound like crack , then I supposed that it could be because the friction between steel parts, and adjustment on my handlepost. I had the great idea to put a thinner rubber on the joint press.

Now, I am feeling some movements in my handlepost pivot point (please see photo).
Could it be normal? I dont remember that, because after the rubber, I feel totally silence in my bike.


texts: Are upright conventional bicycle more comfortable than a recumbent trike over forest trails?

texts:
This question was prompted out of a short discussion from this question when it was proposed that a upright conventional bicycle is more comfortable than a recumbent trike when riding over forest trails.

The reasoning is that on a upright conventional bicycle, you would just stand up and let your legs be the suspension when going over the bumps. Obviously, this is not possible with a recumbent trike.

So which one is more comfortable?


texts: How much energy is lost with a gravel tire compared with a road tire?

texts:
I understand that around 20% of the energy while cycling is lost by the deformation of the wheels. I also understand that in smooth and dry roads people use plain tires (no tread pattern) as these tires will get more contact area with the ground, therefore needing less deformation in order to equilibrate the forces (with P= F/A).
Now based on that, I was wondering if there is any estimate on much gravel bike tires (with some light tread pattern) might contribute to the loss of energy compared with road bike tires (plain) for the same conditions (dry, plain and smooth road). Is the difference going to be substantial and noticeable, or just a small percentage barely noticeable in efficiency? or more generally, is there any study quantifying the loss of efficiency as the tread pattern gets more and more predominant?
In principle I would expect that if the tread is close to "plain" but with some light pattern it shouldn't affect strongly the performance, but I am not sure if this is correct.
I am an amateur cyclist, and I will use my future bike mainly on the road, with a 5 to 10% gravel, so I need to make a decision based on this.


texts: Can I install the double brakes on the tt handlebars?

texts: I have a fixed gear bike. I want install a tt handlebars, but I don't know it can install double brakes?


texts:
I recently installed a rear luggage rack and washed my bike, and now I get a buzzing rattle when I ride over bumps in the road, independent of whether I happen to be pedaling at the time. It sounds like it's coming from somewhere below me as I'm riding, which probably indicates somewhere between the bottom bracket and the rear hub, or as high as the saddle. With my bike up on a repair stand I tapped the various components of the rack and tightened the screws but I didn't find anything obviously loose or that rattled as I tapped it.

How can I narrow down the source of the rattle?


texts: Can a freewheel hub be swapped out for a cassette hub?

texts:
I have a very cheap, yet very old, 26" Chinese rear wheel with a freewheel hub mounted on my MTB. The hub, bearings and cones are shot, but the rim is still good.
I have two Shimano cassette hubs FH-RM20 and FH-RM50, that I got very cheaply on eBay. I was hoping to get the freewheel hub swapped for one of the cassette hubs at a local shop for 160 baht (~£3) - labour is cheap in Thailand.
However, after originally having said that the hubs could be swapped, once I had taken the cassette hubs to the shop to show them, the lady in the shop has now told me that the hubs could not be fitted. Due to language issues, I wasn't given any explanation as to why.
The number of spokes is the same (36) and the spoke holes diameter is 45 mm in both the freewheel hub and the cassette hub, and the spoke bases (i.e. the holes for the spokes) are 67 mm wide (or rather, apart) on both types of hub. So, the fit (i.e. dimensions) would appear to be the same.
I am not sure whether the shop was expecting my to want to swap for another freewheel hub, and having the cassette hub instead is the problem. So, my questions(s) are:

Is it possible to swap the hub types, or
Does it lead to other issues, such as offset issues? Can the same spokes not be used?

I am tempted to just try to swap the hubs myself and then go back to the shop to get the spokes tightened properly, but I don't want to mess up my current wheel if it is not possible - the bearings may be shot but it can still get me around (just about).
Keeping costs to a minimum is a priority, hence why I am not going for a new set of Formula hubs, AlexRims RM19 rims and Pilar spokes for ~3000-4000 baht (~£70-100), However, I don't want another cheap Chinese hub, so that is why I am attempting this hybrid solution of a good cheap second hand Shimano hub and the existing cheap rim.
Please note that this is a different question to Can I convert freewheel hub to use cassette?, as I actually want to swap hubs and not convert them.

FWIW, I currently have a 7 speed freewheel gearset (Shimano MF-TZ07), and I have a Shimano CS-HG41-7ac to use for the cassette.


texts: Mixing 9-speed Tiagra and 9-speed Deore XT

texts:
I currently have a road bike with the following setup for the gears:

9-speed Tiagra front and rear derailleurs, Sora shifters, all from 2009:
30/39/52 Crankset
11-25 Cassette.

I need some more low gears for hilly areas, and I am thinking of switching to a 9-speed Deore XT derailleur and 11-32 cassette. Is it possible / compatible? Do you think that cross-chaining would be an issue? Will I need a new chain?


texts: Garden of stones, that are similar to watermelons

texts:
There is this trail around my location. Half of it is a rock garden. The stones are similar to the picture below.

The elevation is not extreme - one can ride uphill, at the lowest gear.

My bike has 160mm front and rear travel. It actually goes over any of the stones without help from my side :)

Here is my problem. When I try to descent over them (at some speed) there are times, when the front tire "steps" on the side of a stone, then slides down (and because, unlike the picture, the stones are watermelon-shaped, this is easy, there is no flat "top" to step on).

Because the rear end is moving forward, this attempts to turn my handlebars to the side and throw me from the bike. Both times this happened, I regained control, but the look of the "landing", should I fail the third time, discouraged me from descending at joyful speed.

It doesn't look really difficult, the stones are arranged at a flat pathway, and the slope angle is not steep at all. What should I do to learn to handle those front tire slips on the side of a rock? Or how should I prevent them?


texts:
I am new to road bikes. I bought a new road bike. I wanted to take the front wheel out, but it was difficult because, despite of having "opened" the brake pads (with the quick release lever found on the braking mechanism), the tire was thicker than the space between the pads. The same happens on my rear wheel.

I don't know if I am making myself clear, so an answer to any of these three questions will help:

Is this normal on road bikes?
Does this mean the pads should be further apart?
How far apart from the wheel should the brake pads (front and rear) be?


texts:
I'm not too sure what to call this but basically someone whilst riding my bike shifted up too much (basically they mustve pulled on the lever while already being in the big gear) and now as a result both the lever and the button are both jammed and I have no clue what I should do to fix it (being a novice cyclist xD)

Usually the red line is in the middle (big ring) or to the far right (small ring). I've tried applying a lot of force to the button but it seems completely jammed.

Lastly here is a picture of the front derailleur.


texts: Converting old mountain bike to fixed gear

texts:
I would like to convert an old (Raleigh A3) mountain bike to fixed gear bike.
But dropout seems to be vertical (or diagonal).
Does such dropout is suitable for fixed gear?
Does "chain tensioner" needed?
The fixed gear with tensioner is it a good idea?


texts: Help identifying a 1980s Shimano 600 road bike

texts:
Under the bottom bracket is a plastic piece with Raleigh on it. It has mavic ma40 wheels, cinelli handlebars, Shimano 600 2x6 gears, it weighs exactly 10kg (EDIT: without chain, derailleurs and front qr skewer), has shimano 600 brakes, a steel frame and has campagnolo top tube/friction shifters. I cannot see a serial number anywhere on the bike. Thank you for any help.
Harvey

Edit: I'm not just asking what year it is, I would also like to know brand and model if anyone knows since I cannot find a serial number.


texts: Trying to identify some very old Magura rim brakes

texts:
I'm looking to identify some very old rim brakes.  I bought this bike used, and have now ridden it for enough miles that I strongly feel the need to replace at least the brake pads.  No evidence that there is a problem, just a gut feeling that 5000 miles is plenty for one set of pads.

So, I'm attaching pictures.  I once did some research and think I discovered "Magura Move!" in some website archives from well before 2000.  But, the Magura forums look pretty dead, and I would guess I'll get more eyes on the problem here.

I'm looking to replace either the pads, or the entire system with a new one.  I'm also considering the possibility of completely retiring the bike these are attached to.  What I need to know is how likely I am to find new pads for brakes that may be twenty years old, and if not, what measurements will help me ensure that I'm getting a new set appropriate for my bike?


texts: Upgrading 20 year old road bike's groupset

texts:
I own an Scott AFD 709 from the late 90s to early 2000s with an Ultegra 6500 group set. Would it be possible to upgrade to the newest Tiagra 4700 groupset (https://www.vanillabikes.com/products/shimano-tiagra-4700-groupset)?

Which kind of problems would I have to face?

The cassette should fit, as it is a 10 speed one, which is compatible
to the 9 speed free wheel hub.
The bottom bracket and chainset should fit as well.
Does the rear derailleur fit? Probably yes, why shouldn't it?
Are the brakes compatible? They look a bit longer...
My biggest fear is the front derailleur. The bike currently is currently brazed on. It is at the lowest position. Could it maybe fit nevertheless?

Here are some photos of the bike:


texts: Should I get a 18/25 tube or a 25/32 tube?

texts:
I have a 25mm size tyre and I'm ordering some inner tubes on the net.

So far, I seem to have a choice between either the 18/25 range or the 25/32 range.

Both would fit but would one size be better than another?

Would the 25/32 tube heavier to accommodate the 32mm tyres and would the 18/25 size tube would be easier to puncture because it's at the maximum stretch?

Or would this be largely negligible?


texts: I need help identifying used MTB tire sealant

texts:
I have a new-used MTB and I don't know what kind of sealant is in its tires. Does anyone know what this may be, or have a good resource for figuring it out?

The liquid sealant in the tire is a light brown, like coffee with milk. The dried sealant is a slightly darker brown.


texts: Rebuild or replace rear wheel on Giant Escape 2 (2016)?

texts: I've had my Giant Escape 2 for just under a year. I do a 10 mile daily commute (total) in the hilly/crappy-road Atlanta area. I weigh 205 and carry 10-20 lbs of stuff in panniers on a rear rack. So as I understand it, that's a situation that puts a bit of extra wear/fatigue on the mediocre stock wheels of this bike. Still, I was a bit disappointed when I broke two spokes within a couple weeks (both right at the spoke nipple). From a bit of web searching, and from going back to the LBS where I bought it, it sounds like I need to either rebuild the wheel or replace. What do y'all think? The LBS says it'd be about $75 to rebuild with new spokes. That's not terrible. Then again, I've grown very frustrated with this particular LBS and am looking around at other shops. I emailed another place, and they suggested upgrading to a higher quality wheel for $185--but I don't know the details yet of what they're thinking. Anyway, I'm just trying to cover my bases and ask around for different perspectives. Trying to find the right balance between a solution that will meet my needs (ie, not break spokes or axles!) without spending a disproportionate amount of money (the bike itself was only $500 new). For reference, the Giant Escape 2 has 700c wheels, rim brakes. I have a very new Continental TourRide tire on it that I'd like to keep using, and I'd rather not replace the Schrader-valve tube if I don't have to. Thanks!


texts: What kind of a nut is this holding my front wheels?

texts: What is this kind of a nut called? I have some rusty ones on a road bike I bought second hand and would like to replace the rusty bits myself if possible.


texts: Big dent on frame: How did this damage happen?

texts:
I just bought this second hand Ridgeback Impulse folding bike for my partner. I'm a wheelchair user and it was dark and rainy when I collected the bike.

So... I didn't check it (facepalm) I just got the seller to put it in the boot for me.

It's been in the boot for 3 days, folded, and as far as I am aware, nothing has happened to it while it's been there.

Took it to the bike shop (and nothing happened on the way there either), and we notice a big old dent on the frame, in a bad place, which means the bike is unsafe.

Seller thinks I did it, I think she just didn't notice it. She has no photos on the affected side. It's pretty hard to spot unless you're in the lighting conditions that we were in when those photos were taken. It also looks almost like it's meant to be there - until you realise there's no reason, there's also a crease down the middle of it.

My question for you guys is... in your experience - how would a dent like this happen? Could it happen from a folded bike in the back seat going over a road hump? etc? What force would be needed to make a dent like this? It's pretty big - and would have been inside the fold if it happened in the car. Just don't see how it could have happened, while the bike was folded, in a car. But at the same time, if it has been me, I don't want to screw over the seller either.

Help!!

Thank you


texts: I have a Giant TCR Alliance which has had 2 Shimano SM-BB71-41 press fit bottom brackets, both started clicking, pretty annoying. Any ideas on a good alternative? I'm looking to the £60 mark. Thanks guys.


texts: What is the rear hub of a Giant ATX 2 2019/2020?

texts: My question is about the Giant ATX 2 2019/20 model. Is the hub a freehub for a cassette or a hub for a freewheel?


texts: Is it possible to mix the rings in the crankset?

texts:
I wonder about such setup as buying 48/36/26T crankset and then replacing the smallest (26T) chainring with 22T one.

What I am afraid of that I would get quite significant 14T in difference and when shifting from 22T into 36T I could damage the chain.

So, is such mix -- 48/36/22T -- pretty safe or replacing the chainrings is only for actual replacing the used one to new, but exactly the same size?


texts: Can I put standard drop brakes on a MASI drop handlebar?

texts:
I've got a set of handlebars from a MASI Uno.

I'd like to know if I can put standard drop bar brakes, similar to these (ignore the interrupter brakes and bar end shifter for now).

The MASI bars have such a large drop, I'm not sure how well the brakes would work. I doubt I'll get a nice flat surface to grip the brakes while still being able to reach them from the drops. Has anyone tried this? Did it work?


texts: Is there any kind of adapter to mount v-brakes or cantilevers to a frame that's not designed to accommodate them?

texts: I have an aluminum single-speed frame that was marketed as a fixie. I'm wanting to convert it to a single-speed commuter. (I'm getting older and the fixie doesn't agree with my knees anymore.) It has enough clearance in the rear for 700x35 tires. It has a brake bridge but it doesn't have posts to mount v-brakes or cantilevers. Is there any kind of adapter that could make that work?


texts:
My wahoo element roam doenst show waypoints when loaded
I have tried dozen maps.. and still no go
My friend's element bolt has the same problem
Im using android and he is on ios.


texts:
I got a mountainbike from wich the back wheel completely bent. I can't fix it with a spoke wrench. The tire is a v-brake tire and I had a spare v-brake rim laying in my shed only problem is that it had a road tire on it.
So my question is: could I just put a mtb outer tire on that v-brake rim with the road tire on it and succesfully use it on the trails?


texts:
The chain keeps wanting to load towards the right hand side of the cog no matter how I orientate the chain. This causes painful skipping. Do the marks have anything to do with it?

I have a singulator and I've moved this left-right and even removed it but i still get the same issue: chain loading towards one side and skipping.

ideas?


texts: I have been thinking of getting back into cycling after a long hiatus and need to buy a bike. Is it better to get a cheap bike now and build up strength + get a feel for what I want in the future OR take a bit more time to save for an entry level good bike (I have my eye on a Specialized Crossroads)? My goal is to commute about 9.5 miles over paved but hilly terrain.


texts: Can a counterfeit Shimano chain be used on an authentic Shimano drivetrain?

texts:
I accidentally purchased a fake CNHG901 HG-X11 Chain for my Shimano 2x11 M700 Groupset because my original chain already had 0.75 wear. I was naive and stupid to think that I'd actually get a legitimate chain for the amount of money that I was paying. My question is, since the option of getting a refund is already out, is it actually safe for me to use this chain on my bike or am I better off not using it at all.
Additional info: I found out the chain was not authentic through this video:

             where I found many differences between my chain and the one in the vid. Mine had engravings on both sides and not just one, it came with a quick link but not an instruction manual like in the video, and cost about 50% the price of a legit chain.
(The chain in the YT video is not my chain, the video is an actual unboxing of a legitimate shimano chain, I used the video to compare the chain I got and the chain in the video.)


texts: Are there Dynamo powered, rear flashing lights?

texts:
I run a SON hub dynamo and have recently upgraded my front light (the old light and the dynamo are ~10 years old). The new one is much brighter than the old and has a USB outlet for charging stuff, so I'm very happy with that (Lumotec Eyc).

What I want from a rear light is something like the "superflash" red LED lights, but any kind of blinking would be acceptable. Ideally I'd like one that has both constant and blinking LEDs but I have enough power available to run two, so I'm willing to keep my existing light.

I run my dyno lights constantly, day and night, so having an "off" switch is not necessary (and slightly undesirable), I'd be quite happy with a light that simply flashes whenever power is applied.

But with much searching I have not been able to find anything. I am specifically not interested in the "reelight" things, they will not work for me (and I recommend against them in general, they flash too slowly and too dimly). This thread on bikeradar didn't turn up anything. I suspect part of the problem is that blinking bike lights are not legal in Germany, home of all the good bike light manufacturers.

But I would love a link to one that I can buy, if anyone has one.

(edit in comments) People suggest I DIY, but this question arises from my attempts to DIY. I have built my own bike lights before, and it's hard to make something robust and reliable. Waterproof is a particular issue. Since the original question I have run a light designed for two AAA batteries off the rectified and smoothed dynamo output for a couple of months. Despite my efforts to seal around the hole where the wires went in the light failed after about 3 months of winter riding.

I'm currently running the SeeSense motion sensing battery light and liking the fact that I only have to touch it when I take it off to charge it - it goes into standby automatically when the bike isn't moving. But if I charge it, it stops flashing and has to be manually turned on once charging stops. So I can't possibly use that as a dyno powered light.


texts: What is the best way to prevent skidding/fishtailing on wet pavement?

texts:
This is related to the "What is the recommended type of tire for riding on wet pavement" question.

I also live in Seattle. So now has come the time where I often need to go down some steep hills on wet pavement. When I need to stop I sometimes skid. What is the best way to stop or prevent the skidding/fishtailing? Either, new components for the wet weather or new techniques I need.


texts:
The rear brake (calliper) on my road bike sticks. When I pull the brake it pulls down but only half springs back and there's then slack in the leavers.  This is causing rubbing on the rim.

It's a fairly new bike (last year) so I wouldn't think it's just normal wear and tear. I've tried adjusting the tension using the adjuster and rebalancing but it doesn't seem to fix it.

Any idea what the problem is and how it can be fixed?


texts: How can I test gloves for long ride comfort?

texts:
Preface: for about 15 years I have used always the same pair of gloves, which worked as a charm. Since they started to show their age and that version is since long time no longer produced, I looked for another pair.

I tried one, which had a padding in the palm, and they felt comfortable on my hands. Only after wearing them a few hours on the ride I noticed the padding, pushing on my palms, made my hands numb, so I had no other choice than not wearing them.

Is there a way to assess gloves comfort in the few minutes one can try them in a shop?


texts: Trek 26" mtb disc, how to change up crank set /gear size?

texts: What should I consider with regard to the front gear (derailleur) selector unit when changing up from a 42 to a 48 tooth crankset? I have changed a few similar cranksets but not done a gear ratio lift. A previous attempt (grip shifts) resulted in only one of the 3 crankwheels usable. Thanks.


texts:
My right Shimano shifter is now loose and clicking it doesn't do anything to the rear derailleur. I've checked the derailleur and it still works fine. How can I fix the shifter?

Edit: It's a road bike cable shifter; it has the brakes with it as well so it's a brifter (?). I have potentially found the problem. Something in the cable seems to have snapped as the cable has come out of the shifter. Any way to fix that?

Edit 2: I realised that someone shared a link on how to replace the cable in the comments so this question has been answered. Thank you everyone.


texts: Can I use a 6mm threaded bolt instead of a bleed valve for hydraulic brakes?

texts: I've accidentally lost the bleed valve in a front-brake "bleed gone wrong" afternoon and was wondering whether there's anything detrimental in just using a 6mm bolt instead for the time being?


texts: How do I convert a Shimano Selecta to something more modern and quality?

texts:
I have created a single speed bike out of a 1982 Helkama Kulkuri.
The only part that is a mystery to me is the bottom bracket (BB).
It seems it is an interesting and easy to work with Shimano Selecta.

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/733841-replacing-shimano-selecta-bottom-bracket-square-taper.html

It's an original but its teeth are too worn and I need to get something much more modern.

My worry is the size, do I need some kind of conversion kit to use a modern bottom bracket? Is there a kit in the EU I could get to take care of this?  Or is it the correct size and any BB will do?

According to what I am reading above it is the same size as the american single piece crank so can I buy the same conversion kit for it?


texts:
I'm in San Francisco and hills are crazy (think ~40° slope) and I would like to avoid taking many such hills (both when going down and up).

Are there Google Maps-like apps that can take this into account? I don't mind biking for 30% more distance if it means avoiding crazy slopes.


texts: Help me identify bike frame. Repainted, but have serial number

texts:
I got this bike second hand, accordingly to the previous owner it should be a rocky mountain. He said that he repainted the bike and created new stickers for it. I couldn't find a similar rocky mountain bike online so that's why I am asking for help here.
The serial number that I got on the BB is MAX04120342.
Thanks for anyone replying.
P.S:
Former owner said that the frame should be a 2004 model when negotiating the sale. Not sure if lying for the sake of sale or this might lead me somewhere.
Update 1: Contacted Rocky Mountains on 24.07.2020, still haven't received answer we are still searching for the frame manufacturer!


texts:
I want to buy a used bike (Specialized Tarmac) with good price
But rear wheel hub is broken as in photo

What is a part name I have to buy and change, or it must be completely changed
PS: I don't know exact model name, but on it Ultegra 67xx 11 chains

UPDATE:
The wheelset model DT Swiss Axis 3.0


texts: Road tyres vs "Street" tyres for charity ride on MTB Tandem

texts:
Variation on a question that's been asked a few times.
For reasons, we have signed up to do a charity ride of ~80 miles on our super-cheap Viking Saratoga tandem. I've already made a few upgrades, mainly ergonomic, but was wondering whether I should bother changing the tyres.
I realise conventional wisdom dictates "slicks" rather than "knobblies" for riding a MTB on the road, but the tyres currently fitted are Kenda Kiniptions in 26 X 2.3", which the manufacturer describes as:

Excellent tire for urban assault or skate park use; equally versatile on hardpack race courses
Diamond shaped knob design wraps from bead to bead for sidewall protection and grip from all angles

We run these pumped all the way up to the recommended maximum of 80psi.
Now, I'm all for "marginal gains", but the bike is already pretty heavy, so I'm not sure that lighter weight tyres would make things much easier - I think any potential improvement would be in rolling resistance.
Is there any tire around that would be a useful upgrade in speed? The rims are drilled for Schrader, so if Presta tubes (to allow higher pressure) were part of the solution, I imagine this would require some fiddly adapters.

UPDATES:
The rims are unbranded with no markings, so no idea of max pressure.
2 punctures in 50 miles a couple of weeks ago, and I have changed both tyres for Marathon Supremes. This has made an appreciable difference in cruising speed, more than I anticipated.


texts: Best way to hang a bicycle from a ceiling pipe

texts:
I've just moved to a new place, and it's pretty small, so I'm looking to put my bike out of the way by hanging it from a (plenty sturdy) pipe that runs along my ceiling. At the moment I've got it jury-rigged with bungee cords, but that's obviously not a long-term solution. It seems that most of the hooks sold online are either wall-mount (not viable for me since my walls are concrete) or screw into the ceiling (not viable for the same reason). Is there any other method - such as hooks that are meant to actually hang off of something else - that might work here?

My current setup


texts: Can I use a Shimano RD-M735 rear derailleur with road shifters like the SL-6400 (7s) or the SL-6401 (8s)?

texts:
I'd like to set up an old school touring/rando bike.
Do Shimano road and mountain bike components of that era (7 and 8 speed) share the same cable pull ratio? I know the RD-M735 is 7 speed, using it as an 8 speed derailleur shouldn't be an issue. But I'm not sure when it comes to shifter compatibility.


texts: What type of lubricant/grease is most suitable for brake and shift cables?

texts:
I bought this lube some time back when I cleaned the bearings in my rear wheel:

Now I am replacing all the cables on my bike and the instructions say to use white lithium grease. While I was at the bike shop yesterday, I asked the guy if the above ParkTool grease would suffice and he said it would. However, someone online said that this grease would not work as it would introduce friction within the cable housing.

So what is the correct answer? If I already put that lube on my cables, should I clean it off (if that's even possible) and apply the proper grease?

Edit: For anyone wondering, here's the cable kit I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8NDVD6

And here are the instructions:


texts: Why using a puncture repair kit instead of a new inner tube?

texts:
I am a casual rider (~30 km commute as often as possible) in an urban setting.

Reading this SE site to learn about biking (the resource is extraordinary, even though I don't understand every technicality) I see that one of the suggestions given on a regular basis is to have a puncture repair kit.

I ride with a spare inner tube and used a kit maybe 30 years ago - I thought it was an inferior approach to just swapping the inner tube (because you need to find the hole, prepare the kit, glue etc.). I see that I was apparently wrong.

What are the reasons to recommend a kit rather than a spare inner tube?

Is it because

of the cost? An inner tube for my casual riding is a few euros, I needed maybe one or two last year
of the reusability? One kit probably serves several punctures but then I would consider having both - in the unlikely case I get a puncture (statistically from past years) I would use the spare, and have the kit in case of a second one.
of the ecological considerations?
of the weight? This is a good point but I do not feel the extra tube in my backpack over such a short distance


texts: SRAM X01 Eagle (12speed) in 11speed transmission: it work?

texts:
Well, I intend to use an SRAM X01 Eagle (12speed) rear derailleur in a 1x11 transmission (with a SRAM X01 "non-Eagle" 11speed trigger, cassette SunRace 11s 11-46, SRAM PC XX1 chain).
Will it work perfectly?


texts: Play between axle and bearing inner ring

texts:
Got new 'low' cost wheels with noticeable rattling in both of them. Thought cartridge bearings had an excessive play. Turns out there is some play between bearing inner ring and axle.

Lock nuts were quite tight. After undoing the non-drive side nuts and and tightening them finger tight the play disappears. After tightening the quick release skewer the wheel seems like it's not turning freely enough.

Then after tightening the round nut against the lock nut when the skewer is tightened everything seems fine, but after removing the wheel lock nut is completely loose. Could it be due to loose low quality threads on round nut and lock nut?

Don't have much experience with cartridge bearing hubs as I got these due to partially cracked rims on old wheels and was tired of adjusting the cup and cone type ones.

Probably some of them have bearing sleeves like these (the picture is unintelligible).

Regarding to bearing preload, don't know why spring loaded bearings like these aren't used in bicycle hubs.


texts:
The National Bike Registry is an nationwide registry of bikes with identifying information (serial numbers, make/model, owner information) in the US that is intended to help identify stolen or impounded bikes. There are of course other bike registries such as the recent Bike Index, many municipal registries, and the International Bike Registry.

Are these registries effective, both at reducing bike theft (i.e. if you put a sticker on your bike thieves are less likely to steal it) or in tracking down stolen bikes?


texts:
Why did my (so far) trusted garmin edge 520, all of a sudden started to behave awkwardly?
1. A well known distance of 18.8klm (as is everyday measured) was measured as 21.2klm
2. Just after the start of a new session the speed meter was stuck to "0.2klm/h" giving false or no  results?
3. Even without wearing my heart rate belt it appeared that I have 72 bpm average pulse?


texts: Bottom bracket and crank confusion for dirt jumper

texts:
I'm looking to build an NS Decade dirt jump bike. I'm super confused about purchasing the right bottom bracket and crankset.
The frame specs says 73mm threaded.
Ideally, I'd like to use 30mm Raceface cranks (because they're cheaper than BMX cranks it seems like).
Which one of these should I pick? Does any of these options work for this frame?

Also,
Would that work this these cranks?

It seems to suggest that I should buy this for 73mm shell?


texts: What sites support Garmin Edge 200 .FIT format?

texts:
I'm wondering what sites support uploading .FIT (from a Garmin Edge 200) files for analysis and mapping? I know that Garmin Connect does, but I'd like to evaluate other sites that does what Connect does.

Thanks very much.


texts:
I have a BMX forsale, but I would like to know what make the frame is so I can determine how much it is worth.
Does anyone recognise this symbol on the frame?

Thanks for your help
Jon


texts: Best bike for distance, best bike for speed

texts:
I am biking the Pacific Coast from Vancouver, BC to San Diego this September. I am looking to purchase a new bike, but I am struggling with the choices.

I enjoy racing with friends on weekends. On an average weekend, I might bike 80 miles and will sustain and 25mph pace. I regularly participate in relaxed races, like the Portland Century. I also bike to work.

In an ideal world, I'd purchase a race bike and a touring bike, but unfortunately,  I cannot afford both. I need to purchase a bike that is capable of making a 1850 mile journey, but also sporty and speedy enough to satisfy my weekly needs. I'm really lost and I'm not sure what bike fits both these requirements.

Any tips, pointers, or advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

Few other tidbits of information:
- I could potentially purchase a trailer for the trip, so I don't have to purchase a bike that has bIke bag capabilities.
- I'm willing to sacrifice comfort on my trip for a bike that will meet my needs in the future.

Thanks!


texts: I have managed to remove the threaded locking mechanism of this bottom bracket. However, I can't get the bracket out. I have tried to just bang it out, but it doesn't move. I don't know what else to do. ideas? help.


texts: Chain replacement - how many links 114/116?

texts:
I'm replacing an (exact same) Shimano 11 speed chain, the cassette is Shimano Ultegra 11-25T . There are 54 links that look like ()().  What size of chain should I order : 114 or 116 ?

I'm going to take the old chain off and then use the method

thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that one complete link (one inch, -- one inner and one outer half-link) overlaps.


texts:
How can I find the correct outfit for a British Cycling event?

http://www.abcetour.com

NO sign-up, NO fees, NO lycra, just wander in!

I am strictly a Lycra guy... now what will I wear? ;)

But seriously, if anyone can point to a good resource for Vintage bike attire that would be great.


texts: Tube sealant vs. tire liners vs. puncture-resistant tires -- which best prevents flats?

texts:
Clarification:

I am not asking for a solution to punctures, or about the nuances of ride quality with the various solutions. I am asking whether one method of reducing punctures has been proven better than others through scientific testing.

Preface:

I often see people online using tubes with sealant rather than tire liners or puncture resistant tires, and wonder "why?" The slime is messy, can clog the valve, weighs more than liners, and does nothing to actually prevent a puncture, but rather waits until the puncture occurs to go into action filling it and (hopefully) coagulating in the hole. I've read that this really only works on small holes, too.

Purely anecdotal evidence:

I've ridden for the last eight years on the same route during my commute. I started with tire liners on regular tires, then went with Continental Gatorskins (Kevlar belted), and am now on my second set of Vittoria Randonneurs (double-shielded), and of the three setups, only ever had punctures on the Conti's -- at least two flats per year (grrr!). Zero flats on the Randos in nearly four years while laughing my way through the fields of glass.  I see Schwalbe Marathons recommended more than any other brand, and while many say they've never had a flat with them, I also see some cyclists posting that they've had flats with those, too.

It just seems to me that there's no competition: double-shielding wins, IMO.  It's less hassle that liners or sealant, and just as protective as liners/more protective than sealant, and generally weigh the same or less than sealant-filled tubes or tire-liners.  Not to mention the cost factor over time.

Question:

Can someone explain the advantages of using liners or sealant over puncture-resistant tires, specifically relating to resisting punctures?  Have any scientific studies been done to compare the three methods?


texts: Is it more difficult to mount non-tubeless tires on tubeless-ready rims than non-tubeless-ready rims?

texts:
In the summer I bought an e-road-bike that has tubeless-ready rims. I wanted to change the tires to better ones, so I bought a pair of Continental GP 5000 (non-tubeless) 28mm tires, and installed them on to the rims.
It was a very hard job! I even punctured one tube in the process.
Yesterday, I finalized a 36-spoke replacement wheel for the e-road-bike, because I was not satisfied with the stock non-Shimano hub and the spoke count of the stock wheel (28). The replacement wheel uses a non-tubeless-ready double-eyeleted rim (DT Swiss TK 540).
I mounted a GP 5000 28mm tire on the replacement wheel, and it was very easy!
I started to think whether this could be due the tubeless-readiness properties of the rim. Are all rims similar? I.e. is it always hard to mount a non-tubeless tire on a tubeless-ready rim and easy to mount a non-tubeless tire on a non-tubeless-ready rim?


texts: Prevent wheel bearing from coming loose due to disk braking lateral force

texts:
I have an entry range gravel bike (Kona Rove AL 2017) with disk brakes and the cup and cone front wheel hub shown in the pictures. There is the cone itself that threads on the axle and a top ring that presses against the ball bearings to prevent them from coming loose (see 1st and 2nd pictures for the disassembled bearing). The inner part of this ring is made of rubber to rub against the cone and seal the bearing. Not shown are the lock nuts and washers.

The problem is that braking exerts a rather big lateral force on the wheel that slowly forces the ring to the outside, which in turn causes the bearings to have a lot of lateral play.

How do I deal with this? I thought of changing this setup to one where the cone actually overlaps and presses the ring into place, preventing it from coming loose.
Alternatively I could buy a tool to hammer cartridge bearings into hubs and periodically "tighten" the rings. This would be a pain since I think their inner diameter would not fit the cone nut, forcing me to disassemble the bearings each time.

Edit regarding the misunderstandings on the comments and answers so far.

Let me explain better how my bearings are composed:

There is the cup part where the balls sit, seen in the first picture. To close the bearing on the outside there are the cone and sealing ring seen in the second picture. It is the sealing ring (and not the cone itself) that is causing my problems, as I will detail. This ring is metallic on the outside and made from rubber on the inside (to rub against the cone).

The ring fits very tightly into the hub hole (as tight as a normal cartridge bearing fits). This ring moves tight with the hub and rubs gently against the cone to prevent dirt from coming in. The ring is held in place only due to how tight tight it fits the hub - there is nothing preventing it from moving to the outside if a lateral force is applied from the inside. The cone itself does not overlap this ring (see 3rd picture).

Due to the disk brakes on this bike a lot of lateral force is exerted during breaking. In this bearing setup, as I noticed recently and tried to explain above, if the lateral force applied is strong enough it overcomes the pressure of the tight fit and the ring is slowly moved out (the cone remains always in place, since it is screwed).

Now if this ring does not sit tight to the cup and balls they have play and so does the axle in relation to wheel.

How do I know this is the root cause of the problem? I bought the bike new about a year ago and its front wheel slowly built up lateral play under braking (which in turn induces fork vibration - but that is another story). This lateral play reached about 2 cm at the tire before I decided to inspect the hub last week and noticed the rings were not tight to the balls. After I pressed them again against the balls the play disappeared.

I should also mention that I had the bike inspected twice by the mechanic in this year, explicitly complained about deteriorating fork vibration and wheel play (since then I did not knew the root cause of it) and was told it was normal and still safe to ride.


texts: Shimano GRX lever with cantilever brakes

texts: Will Shimano GRX levers work with cantilever brakes? Related question here but answers more about shifters.


texts:
I have bought not so long ago (about two month) brand new and the shiny white from my handle tap have become pretty dirty:

I am tempted to just change the tape to another color - that would be problem solved for me - but that would basically be a dirty hack. How can I clean the white tape and remove the dirt?


texts:
In Ontario, Canada, may I pedal my e-bike up to the road's posted speed limit without motor assistance?

Like if my bike does 31 mph but the speed limit is higher, can I travel to that speed without motor assistance?


texts: Size advice needed for Revolution Country Traveller touring bike

texts:
I'm about to by my first touring bike. I've got a very tight budget so I will probably order a Revolution Country Traveller from Edinburgh bicycle cooperation as it looks like it will suit my needs.

Though I would like some tips for which frame size I should choose. I know it's really hard for anyone to say what I will like the best but I've got no possibility of trying out the bike before buying. I haven't got any bikeshop nearby with a very similar bike in stock neither.

I'm 20 years old, between 177-178 cm tall and my leg length (to my crotch) is about 80 - 81 centimeters. I've go a Specialized MTB with 19" frame which I feel suits me well and I've got a Nishiki Criterium (2008 or 2009 year model) in size "medium" which has a seat tube length of about 50 centimeters or so. And I feel quite comfortable on that bike as well.

If I use the formulas based on my leg length I get results ranging between 53 - 55 centimeters. The Country Traveller is available in either 52 or 55 centimeters.

So, just by looking at what I've written above, what would you guess would be the best for me? I'm by the way not a very experienced cyclist. Even though I have had my Criterium quite a while I haven't travelled very great distances on it so I'm still quite inexperienced in general.

All tips and comments are most welcome!

I apologize to all americans for using imperial measurement units by the way. But hey, google is your friend! ;)


texts: Is it possible to put a 700c wheel on to an old Raliegh road bike?

texts:
I've been using a trainer during the winter months and went out on my bike the other day and half way round I got a flat!!!

I spoke to the bloke in a shop who said that using the bike on the trainer will wear the tyre out quicker. He mentioned getting an other tyre but said about the hassel of keep swapping them over.

I have got an old Raliegh sprint with the old wheel size, I think it's 27 and 3/4 inch (not sure on that one!!) This however is too big for the trainer so my question is, Is it possible to get a new wheel which will be smaller than the one on the sprint to fit the bike and also the trainer. This will only be used on the trainer so it won't matter about the brakes.

Hope this makes sense!!


texts: How to prevent Alfine 8 from "skipping"/"slipping under load?

texts:
I bought a nice belt-drive bike with an Alfine 8 hub. While I love everything about the belt, the Alfine hub gives me grief: under high(er) torque - think fast acceleration from a stop at a light - it skips/slips for about half a rotation and makes a lound cracking/crunching/slipping noise.

This happening in gear (i.e. not connected to gear changing).

I brought the bike back to the dealer and he replaced the back wheel incl. the hub. The new back wheel is behaving better but it still slips/skips under load.

My dealer thinks this is normal. I never experienced that on any bike and not on my old Nexus 8 either.

Questions:

Is this normal?
If not, what can I do to stop it?

Thanks so much!


texts: What iOS / iphone app can give me turn by turn navigation of a pre-planned route?

texts:
What iOS / iphone app can provide turn by turn navigation of a pre-planned (mostly on road) route (stored in GPX or TCX file)?  Voice features are nice, but not mandatory. I've found many apps that will track my ride, or display a route and my position, but none that will direct me when to turn to follow the planned route.  This would be very useful when training for an event where gpx files have been provided, or exploring new routes that I plan to ride in unfamiliar territory.

I'm ideally looking for something like the android cue sheet app.


texts: Is Mustache bar for daily ride advisable?

texts: I'm using an NJS approved frame for my fixed gear bike. Is it okay for me to use my new Mustache drop bar on my daily ride going to work and back home. a total of 25km per day.


texts:
I am looking for some routes for a road bike, about 150km - 200km, from Hannover with a come back by train. I will be going to Hannover in about a month for a week, and I'd like to see something. Do you know such routes?

I've been thinking about going from Hamburg to Hannover, and from Magdeburg to Hannover, these routes are about 150km each in straight line, but still, I don't know what exact route would be best here.

I've been also thinking about the route in the Ruhr Valley, it's about 220km, and there are maps on the internet.

Any recommendations?


texts:
I ride a road bike and I have been fitted by me, this is because where I live there are no professional fitters. I prefer ridding on the hoods, but since I changed my fitting this year and moving the bars up I can go for extended periods(90 minutes) on drops also.

I had a couple of episodes of left shoulder and left flank pain, on the edge of the chest, at my nipple level.

Here are the episodes:

after a couple of short sprints I hit a pothole, I instantly had localized chest pain ( this was not on the flank, was like 2 cm lower and to the centre of the body from the left nipple ) and pain on the back around same place. Only with deep breaths. Went away in 20 minutes of easy pedalling.
left shoulder pain after 5 hours of riding, I felt it at clavicle and towards the shoulder joint. I used hoods and drops on the ride
left shoulder pain after 4h hours of riding, mostly a clavicle. I was feeling it with each drive of the right leg, used hoods mostly as it was hilly course, drops only a little.
left flank pain, at the edge of the chest, at nipple level. This was after a long hill, that took around 1h to climb, it had steep sections of up to 10% and I was breathing deeply all the way ( but not heavily, I didn't reached LTHR for example ). I was feeling pain only with deep breaths. I rested for a while, then begin descending and in about 20 minutes the pain was gone.

I saw a doctor after the first episode and she ruled out cardiac problems, she asked me if I was out of breath and had crushing pain, which I didn't, and she also took my pulse and listen to my heart. I also had an EKG made by a sports doctor, which she interpreted as normal and made some blood pressure tests while resting and after standing which were both very good.

Regarding the last episode, I can find the spot where the pain was , I just have to raise my left hand, and search at chest edge at nipple level for a bit and I can find it, if I put pressure there then I feel sharp pain, the spot seems to be on a soft tissue when pressing against the rib.

I also have bad flexibility of lower back and hamstrings, I can barley touch my toes when bending over, and most of the stretch is from the upper back, my lower back is not horizontal. This makes me think that there is something with my position on the bike.

Any idea what could it be and how to fix it?

Thanks.


texts:
My ride buddy and I were "volunteered" to ride a tandem bike for a 40 mile, somewhat hilly, charity ride.

We're running into the issue of who should be in the front on the tandem. Both of us are capable cyclists who bike commute and do a lot of fast fitness cycling.

Main difference is that my buddy is a stronger climber.

So, what are the criteria for tandem riding? Who is the most effective "driving"? Maybe we should periodically swap? Should the "muscle" be in back or front?


texts:
I’m looking to get a recumbent bike for travelling long weekends around Europe. I don’t know much about bikes and I’m looking at recumbent mainly for comfort reasons; I tried biking long trips on a normal bike and by butt was hurting quite a lot.

I have a view quite specific questions:

Which model should I look into buying as a total newbie? Considering my budget is around ~2000 euros
Should I consider the electric assisted paddling ones? I’m super interested in these. Would buying a normal recumbent and then adding an electric motor later make sense?
Can a regular recumbent fit another seat in the back? Curious since sometimes I may want to travel with a friend.

Any help would be great!


texts: Should I get a size up or a size down bike?

texts:
I'm looking to buy a Trek DS 4 bike. In the store the sales person measured me and said I'm right in between sizes 19 and 21 and he wasn't sure which one I should pick. I test drove both sizes and didn't feel any difference, though I have only spent a few minutes on each and I suspect the differences would show themselves on a longer ride (like how tired my back and hangs get etc).

Any recommendations on which way (size up or size down) to go for more comfortable/efficient rides?


texts: Installing New 2020 Rockshox Reverb C1 Dropper Post

texts: I bought a brand new Rockshox Reverb C1 dropper post off of ebay and it came in the wrapper with the hydraulic cable housing already connected to the lever. My problem now is how do I route the cable housing through the frame on my carbon frame? The port on the frame is formed to route the cable housing. My problem is that I can't figure out how to remove the new 2020 flat barb is on the end of the hose. That needs to be remove in order to put the hose through the frame. I tried to unscrew the barbs at both ends but they won't budge. I can't imagine that a brand new product would involve hacking up the cable housing and cutting the barbs out.


texts: Can you use Shimano MTB levers with Shimano flat mount road disk brakes (hydraulic)? Cheers


texts:
I'm having some pain issues (won't get specific, I know not to let the Internet diagnose me) in one foot but not the other. What kinds of motions on a bike stress one foot more than the other?

So far I've thought of

the Sheldon Brown technique for mounting a bike (one foot stomps the pedal, the other pushes off from the ground)
coasting, where I have a habit of always leaving the same foot at full extension (and carrying more weight)

Anything else I've missed? I'm consciously changing my coasting posture, and trying to train myself to Sheldon-Brown-mount with opposite feet. If there's anything else I could be doing, it would be good to know.


texts: Noise from crankshaft spindle and then the pedal falls off

texts:
In the last 6 months I have been getting really bad noises, creaks, clunks, etc coming from somewhere around the spindle connecting to the crankshaft. Every time I put pressure down on the left hand pedal, either it or the spindle attaching to the pedal creaks, clunks real loud and then the pedal works itself loose. I have tightened it up every time and after a couple of days it becomes loose and almost falls off again. Can anyone help explain why and how I may fix it myself?

Sorry actually being a bit clearer it is the square taper crank arm that comes away from the spindle. The pedal actually is fine. The bike is an Dawes XC 2.2 and the crank arm has "Truvativ" Powered by SRAM on it.


texts: MTB Weekend rider: step up to carbon worth it?

texts:
Target: weekend rider, cross country, enjoying technical sections, approx. 3hrs rides. Would like to improve MTB skills and spend more time on the trails.

Current setup: Grand Canyon 4.0 2018, 13,3 kg, Alluminium. Shimano Deore 2x10 crankset, 11-42 10s cassette.

Situation: Having difficulty in steep climbs, bike feels really heavy when I lift it. Considering investing in a carbon model (Focus Raven 8.7).
PROS: approx. 2kg less weight, 30t chainring (as aftermarket upgrade) and a 10-51 cassette, more responsive
CONS: price, less comfortable to ride (?)

Guess some of you could have been / are in the same situation. The author of this article rules against the upgrade decision.

Taking into account technical considerations, is the investment worth it? Thoughts? Experience?


texts: Can I use an inner tube that's too narrow for the tyre?

texts:
I recently got a puncture and when I went to replace the inner tube I discovered that I'd bought the wrong size tube. My tyre is 700 x 40c, the tube is 700 x 28-35c.

What is likely to happen if I use this tube? Will the tube explode when I attempt to inflate it?


texts: Bottom Bracket Size for Specialized Roubaix Elite C2 2009

texts:
I think my bottom bracket has worn and I would like to replace it.  I was looking at the Shimano 105 BB.  BikePedia lists the size as 68mm, which is fine, but there seems to be another dimension.  I can get 68 x 109 mm or 68 x 118 mm.  Is it possible to work out which size I need without removing the current BB?

update
I'm not sure which of the below answers is correct.  In the end I bought a SM-BB6700 Bottom Bracket BC1.37 which worked fine (techdocs here).


texts: Why would a manufacturer change chainring sizes drastically between years?

texts:
A friend was just showing me the 2010 Cervélo S2 specs, as well as the 2011 S2 specs, and the Ultegra line, at least, changes from a 53/39 chainring set in 2010 to a 50/34 set in 2011. This seems like a pretty steep difference, especially given that the more expensive Red and Dura-Ace lines for 2011 keep the larger chainring sizes.

I can't imagine someone spending $4,000 on a bike being that put off by a larger chainring set  than someone spending $5,000 enough to cause customer demand to change the size.


texts: Can I use a 11-23 11-speed Shimano cassette with the RD-R8000 11-speed Ultegra Shadow rear derailleur (short cage)?

texts:
I would like to know whether I can use a 11-23 11-speed shimano cassette with the RD-R8000 11-speed Ultegra Shadow Rear Derailleur (short cage).

I ask this question because I see the new 11-speed Shimano cassettes no longer come in a 11-23 gearing.

Looking forward to your comments.

Thanks


texts: Are most bikes' paint jobs not as durable as they used to be?

texts:
I am asking specifics in a few posts so as to not get into discussions.
Consider this a continuation of bike quality for the price.
I find the paint job on my bike to be nice but very thin and fragile.
It scratches very easily. When I was a kid you would need to use a
jack-knife to scratch the paint. I know there is the rationale that paint weighs and so to eliminate weight they spray the paint on as thinly
as possible. Even the rubbery plastic of my U-lock scuffs it.


texts: Trying to identify part name and correct bolt size

texts:
my father-in-law sent us a bike, however one part was lost in transit. This is an image found online, but shows the part(s) in question.

What is the name of the toothed plate underneath the handlebars that secures them at a given angle? I originally thought that part was lost, but found it loose inside the shipping box. The bolt to tighten the plate, however, is still missing. I found a bolt that I thought would work, but the plate is still loose despite my tightening the bolt I have as much as I can.
So, and I'm hoping there is a standard here, what is the correct bolt size and length for that plate? In the event that I'd need to, is there an online source you'd recommend for buying replacement "locking plates and bolts"?
Thanks for your help.


texts: New to bicycles; Bad setup, bad bike, or too heavy?

texts:
I purchased a Schwinn Meridian adult tricycle hoping to have a flexible means of exercise. After giving it a close look, I tried it with disappointing results. When pedaling from a stop, the chain sems to click and skip, and I can't get a full rotation wihout this happening.

Am I too heavy for this trike (350+) unmodified or is something wrong with it either from manufacturing or my assembly of it?

Some pictures:

The amount of slack I can get pulling the secondary chain upwards:

Overview of the chains:

EDIT: I can't add comments but thanks guys... I will try this and come back and confirm that it works if it does. I suspect it will. All it takes is a solid lean for the chain to fall off. I should've thought of it before, but having the frame slid out some seemed a bit sketchy to me so I ignored the chain part of it.

Edit 2: Ok, that fixes that specific problem. Thank you all. I unfortunately have other issues with this bike though. I may ask them later.


texts:
I have recently converted my old early 90s 18 speed Peugeot road bike to a fixed gear.
The chain is clicking when pedalling and is out of line by about 10mm as you can see in the photo.
The rear cog is a new 18t fixed gear. The chainring on the front is the from the original bike is 52t and was the 3rd gear previously. I have removed the two other chain rings.  The new chain itself is 1/8th inch.
If I get a new square tapered crank set and chain ring is this likely to improve the alignment? Will this bring the chain ring closer to the bike and more in line with the rear cog?


texts:
I'm trying to find out more information about this old loop frame bike I'm planning to refurbish. I haven't found any other marks that may be identifying, if there's anything else I can take a photo of that might help, please let me know.
Other information is that it was bought locally in Western Australia, so it's likely that it was bought either here or somewhere in Australia.

Edit 1:
I found an identifying name on the rear hub and coaster brake lever, photos added below, I can't quite make out what it says.
Also, I had a response from the WA Historic Cycle Club saying that the chain ring looks to be a Williams and it should have a date code that can be decoded here: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/williamsdating.html

Edit 2:
Started pulling it apart and found a stamp on the chain ring that has a "46" in the middle of text circling it "BAT.NO.10898-47" The letter at the beginning is worn, but I'm assuming it is a B. The drive side crank has the "B.T.M" stamped on it. I haven't been able to find anything useful from those. There may be another stamp, but the paint is quite thick in some parts so it's hard to tell. Images of these are below.

Edit 3:
So I've started removing the top two blue layers of paint to reveal the original paint(or what's left of it). Unfortunately, most of the likely spots for logos or names have been sanded previously.

There is a logo of some sort on the seat tube along with another dutch flag at the bottom. You can also see that there is dark green paint in the middle of the seat tube and it looks like there is a dark pink/magenta colour down the bottom. This matches with the down tube that appears to be magenta faded to dark green(possibly grey or a lighter colour in between?)

The drive side down tube has some brighter bits of paint where there was previously paint or stickers.
On the non-drive side of the down tube I think I can see an "e".

I'll continue removing paint, it's quite time consuming, I'm using a hobby knife to lift off the old paint. This still isn't much to go off, but it's a lot more than before. I've also included pictures of the handlebars and stem, I tried cleaning them up a bit to see if there are any stamps, but I can't see anything. Please let me know if there is anywhere specific on the bike that I should focus on.

Edit 4:
I've made the biggest discovery by far today, I've added the picture in above all the others. On the steerer tube there is a label with what I assume is the manufacturer's name because it's a guarantee sticker. Unfortunately I can't find anything about them except that they maybe part of "The Nissan Cycle Co." You can see the label below, it says "Super Yama". Hopefully someone knows something. You can also clearly see one of the original colours, it was hidden under a crown cover.

Edit 5:
Just found another thing on the WA Historic Cycle Club site, they have a page with WA bike manufacturers logos, and I'm almost certain this is the one on the seat tube, I've added the logo down with the pictures of the seat tube.

Edit 1 Images:

Edit 2 Images:

Edit 3 Images:

Stem

Handlebars

Logo that appears to match - Bluebird Boans Ltd. Perth

Seat tube front logo with flash

Seat tube front logo no flash

Seat tube non drive side

Seat tube drive side

Down tube drive side no flash

Down tube drive side flash

Down tube non drive side


texts:
I have been riding my hard tail on the road for the last 3 years on some knobbly 26 x 2.1 tyres. After just starting a new job and with the need to commute further I am considering purchasing some slicks, however I do not know how best to decide on which tyre to choose. What width should I be going down to and what kind of tread?

I like the look of these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/continental-sportcontact-city-mtb-tyre-and-tube-set but they also come in two widths, is it the thinner the better?


texts:
I'm 180cm tall, with a bicycle inseam of 81cm (without shoes) and a wingspan of 190cm.

I'm looking at the Cannondale Bad Boy 1 2019 hybrid bike which you can see the geometry for here. Based on my understanding, the medium size is probably the best fit, but seems to be discontinued.

Would the large or the small be a decent fit for me? Or should I just look for a different bike?


texts: Broken bottom bracket? Pedals are pretty loose

texts:
Unlike the rest of the broken bottom bracket questions, my bottom bracket does not make any noise or feel like anything is grinding.

There is about 1/2cm of play left to right that i can see on the top chainring. I can definitely feel it being loose.

What is the worst amount of damage that I can do to my bike riding like this? (assuming that I dont fall off and die etc because of this little matter)

The bracket itself is new(ish) it was installed there about a year ago, but I did ride 50 miles per week on it since.

What could have caused this to happen? My best guess right now is that someone did this to my bike because I park it out doors while I am at work.

edit:
My level of expertise in that area of the bike is pretty low, so here is a video of what is happening:

(set quality to HD)

I noticed that on the side of my chainrings there is a noticeable gap between the seal and the bottom bracket.

So what is going on here?  and more importantly can I fix it myself without special tools

Can I expect any kind of a warranty from the bike shop who put this in a year ago ?

Solved:
Took out the bottom bracket.  It is fine and so are the cranks. The threads on the frame are not fine though. I need a new frame :P


texts: Replace gear shifter with one with gear number display

texts:
My current back gear has a shifter without a gear number display, with only the + and - signs on the ends.

I was thinking to replace it with a numbered one. Would using a numbered one cause any issue?  Do you have an idea? thanks


texts: What do I need to know when replacing my cassette?

texts:
I'm looking to replace the cassette on my bike with a smaller version, as I find I'm only ever using the top ring of my chainring (except once recently during rain-ageddon).

What do I need to know when buying and fitting a replacement? Are there known compatibility issues?

I currently have a Shimano 7-speed MF-TZ21 (apparently "14/28" means something in this context).

In case you haven't guessed: I don't know a lot about cycle part replacement.


texts: Are handlebar-mounted child seats illegal in Germany?

texts:
I was told that handlebar-mounted child seats such as the Yepp Mini and the Bobike Mini are illegal in Germany.

People say a lot of things about what is and what isn't legal while biking in Germany. Can anyone find me some kind of authoritative documentation on this?


texts: Is it a problem to have tires of different width?

texts:
I received a new tire for my bike. I believe this is a "Hybrid bike" in English and looks more or less like that

image courtesy of Wikimedia

I use it to commute, 50% on bike paths and 50% on easy forest tracks. I have a normal pace (say, 15 to 20 km/h) without any special acrobatic maneuvers.

The problem is that this tire, mounted on the front, is thinner than the one on the back (significantly, I would say it is at about 2/3 of the width, leaning towards 1/2). The size of the tires are:

front: 28x1.4 (ETRTO 37-622)
back: 622 (28x1.60-700x40C)

Sorry for the difference, one is from a photo of my tire, the other one is from the command details. I can have a look at the tires tomorrow if the measurements above are not sufficient.

Is this an issue? Specifically: can this be dangerous? As I mentioned, I drive carefully but some unexpected moves (hard break, sudden change of direction) are always possible and these are these I fear most.

I mostly know the consequences of having a narrow tire vs. a wide one - I am happy with both widths and their features. The question is about having two that are different.

I already carefully did ~50 km and did not see anything special in the way the bike behaves, but the problem may be in some specific situations (wildly guessing)


texts: How tight should the tandem front chain be?

texts:
I have a Thorn Me'n'u2 triplet (three seater tandem), and was having a problem where whenever I tried to accelerate suddenly (either solo or with stoker(s)), the front chain seemed to fall off (happened at least once every time we went out).

I tightened it up (removed a link and turned the offset bottom bracket) so it was then pretty tight (taught top and bottom, only moves a bit when squeezing the middle), and that problem stopped happening - so far so good.

Later on tour we saw someone with a similar tandem but their front chain seemed very saggy - they were stopped, and it was drooping very noticeably both on top and bottom.  I didn't have a chance to talk to them, but presumably they weren't having the same troubles.  Does this suggest something else is/was wrong on mine, and that it should be ok with a much looser chain?


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How can you hear cars approaching over wind noise?

As I transition from a Sunday rider to a commuter I've gotten a good deal faster. This increases the wind noise in my ears, and it's gotten to the point were an unexpected car was surprisingly close as I glanced back prepping for a turn and I wobbled.

At low speeds I used my ears for a general sense of what is around me, is that expected to become unreliable at better speeds?


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I have a 2005 Specialized S-Works Tarmac with Dura-Ace components and Mavic Ksyrium SL wheelset.

I get a "clacking" noise coming from the drivetrain area only when pedaling forward.  I say "clacking" because it's not a click or creak noise.  It reminds me of the noise those acrylic Clacker toys from the 70s made when they hit, but obviously not that loud.

If I backpedal the noise will go away temporarily.  I do notice if I backpedal, then pedal normally, the noise goes away; it will not typically return until I freewheel then pedal forward again.  The noise has been around for about 2 years on this bike and I have changed the following:  Cassette from 7800 to 7900 series, chain, 53T chainring and pedals from 7800 to 7900 series.  The issue is still there.  It happens in the small or large chainrings regardless.

The "clacking" noise does not happen freewheeling at all only pedaling.  It does not correspond with wheel revolutions or even crank revolutions.  It's more of a loud clack immediately followed by a smaller clack happening about every 3/4 crank revolutions.

Last time I took the bike in for a overhaul I told them about the noise that I thought it was coming from the bottom bracket that I wanted that rebuilt.  Once I got the bike back the clacking was gone for about a week, then returned.

Thanks for any help on what to look for!

Mike


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I purchased a vintage Schwinn 12 speed recently, the bike had been re-painted and I cannot figure out the model?

Here is what I know the head badge says 3219 meaning the bike was mfg on the 321 first day of 1979 or Nov.17th 1979 this is confirmed by the mfg stamp on the rear lower wheel mount of the right side of the frame G1179, if I understand correctly the "G" means the bike was produced by Giant Bicycles in Taiwan, and the 1179 confirms the November of 79 manufactures date. On the left hub mount there is a serial number of 318514?

Everything I find on serial numbers says that there should be a LQ in front of the number, LQ meaning again the letter codes used for a Nov. of 79 mfg period? There is not? When looking up the number I get no results unless I use the LQ prefix?

LQ318514 comes up that the bike is a Chicago made Bicycle, yet the date stamp says Giant? Is there any way to cross reference the serial number and find out the Model of the bike? I believe that it is a Approved World Sport, except the Schwinn catalogs do not show the World Sport as a 12 speed?