texts: Why are so many technical aspects of cycling so subjective?

texts:
I come from an Engineering background and I have a strong interest in science. It has always struck me as odd how so much of cycling is so very subjective.

As an example, though this is by no means the only thing, the best method of lubricating a chain. Now I appreciate that there is a difference between conditions that it has to operate in but from an engineering viewpoint there will be an optimum type of lubricant and methodology for applying it. Yet most of the advice you can read about it is laced with conjecture and opinion.

The entire industry appears to be built on arguments that should be resolved with simple repeatable testing.

Does this type of research simply not exist? or do we just enjoy arguing too much!

Edited to respond / clarify

As a species we have now sent a number of spacecraft out to the edge of the solar system. One of breakthroughs of New Horizon was getting it to leave earth orbit so quickly. I imagine the number of variables that were contemplated, researched and tested where considerably more complex than the handful that we can consider for a cycle chain.

The concept of testing isn't to account for every variable, it is to account for individual variables so eventually they can be merged together to get a complete understanding of the underlying system.

So imagine for a minute a box containing a cassette that can provide some constant friction. Then a powered front ring that turns at x rpm. Every y amount of time the gears are automatically changed.

At that point you can measure how much the chain is stretching, and whatever other criteria you're interested in.

You could run the same test with different lubricants and get an idea of what lubricant changes which result.

Once you have that data, you could have a mechanism that drops / throws / shoots z grams of dust / dirty / water / banana at the chain and run the test again.

At the end of a few chains you're going to be able to categorically say that for riding in mud, a is almost certainly better, for riding in high temperature, b is better.

It slightly staggers me that we can look at a photograph taken from billions of miles away and say that this is too complicated to figure out.

Further edited

It seems that somebody has already come up with that scenario, A guy named Jason Smith at Friction Facts spent $50k building a test lab to test chains. Velo Magazine had a report done on assorted lubes which articulates my point that facts are much better than anecdote. That gives a report that anyone can read and make an informed choice about what would best suit their situation.

My point in asking this question is that it surprises me that such data isn't used more in conversations about technology and that there isn't more high quality quantitative data about this thing that costs us so much bloody money!


texts:
I just picked up a Surly Ogre frame and I already have a set of 12mm thru axle wheels (12x142 rear, 12x100 front). The Ogre rear dropout is thru axle ready, but I'm trying to figure out my options for the fork (I don't have a fork yet):

1) Find a 12mm through axle touring fork (would want IS disk mounts, fender and rack mounts, and geometry similar to that of the Ogre fork, I think its ~448mm axle to crown, non-suspension corrected). This seems like a good way to go, but I'm having trouble finding a fork that fits these requirements.

2) Get a Surly Ogre fork, and install the front wheel with a 12mm to quick release adapter. I think this might be a good option given that the Ogre fork meets all my requirements already and allows me to use the wheel I already have. My only worry is whether using the adapter negates the point of a thru axle, or if it will be unsafe (I have no idea whether this is true)

3) Get a QR front wheel compatible with the Ogre fork. (don't want to have to spend more money to replace a wheel I have already)

Any thoughts are much appreciated!


texts: Why would semi-solid fork make whizzing sound?

texts:
Alert the semi-solid fork is probably not the right terminology, it shows that I don't know 100% whether the work has some sort of inner suspension.

My bike is almost this one but I feel there is some sort of inner suspension thing because there is a rubber or it is just decorative and I just imagine it is suspension due to tires. There is a small rubber cork to the fork so I think it is to oil the suspension. I looked inside the rubber thing and there is suspension looking metallic thing. Notice the small rubber cork for the oil, I have never put anything there.

I haven't yet dissasembled the bike and no specific specs because I bought it as 10k-driven used bike. So no precise diagnosis yet.

Description of the sound

The front makes a lot of whiizing sound. When I drive with weight on the front, the sound disappears. When I slow down even a little (i.e. the force is less on the front due to de-accelerating), the sound emerges again. Because of this observation, I thought that the fork is not rigid-fork but with small suspension. What would you suggest to do with the fork? I will disassembly it and apply some sort of special lubrication (it may be just that lubrication is eroded) or will I do something else?


texts:
I am the owner of a bike with a DT Swiss RWS thru-bolt (kinda like a thru-axle but it fits in regular 9/10mm dropouts) skewer system. I saw in their marketing fluff that one of the supposed advantages was that you could put way more tension into the axle than you could using a QR skewer. Leaving aside any discussion of whether it's an advantage at all (indeed some users report that it's actually quite easy to strip the alloy threads on the skewer if you overtorque it). I was curious how this would affect hub bearing preload.
With most of the other wheelsets I own, skewer tension directly contributes to bearing preload and anyone familiar with the correct way to adjust classic cup-and-cone bearings will know that it's important to check the bearing clearance with the skewer/axle bolt tightened, if not it's easy to put too much preload onto the bearings.
Looking on the DT Swiss website, their approach to preload seems to be different. The inner bearing race fits flush to shoulders on the axle on both ends of the axles and the shoulders on the hub shell for the outer race are spaced slightly narrower. This means that the outer race of one bearing sits flush against the shoulder on the hub shell but the other outer race floats slightly off the shoulder on the other side of the hub shell and is kept in place with an interference fit within the hub. Through some physics that I can't quite picture, this means that before the wheel is put into the frame the inner axle exerts outwards force on the inner races, preloading the bearings. When you put the wheel in the frame and tighten the skewer, the inner races (and axle) get compressed, the preload is reduced to the correct amount (that is apparently independent of the skewer tension) and you're good to go.
I guess my question is why do they do it like this and is it actually any better for ensuring correct bearing preload vs. traditional systems?


texts: What road tire should I buy for my new cyclocross

texts: I'm a recreational rider wanting to get more serious with cycling. I like Cyclocross bikes for their versatility and plan on commuting to work using my new entry-level Nashbar CX1. I've heard that knobby tires can be pretty rough on the road so I'm looking for a pair road tires to put on. What size should I consider? Some people use 700 x 30 while others recommend 700 x 32 or 700 x 33. What are the differences between these specs? Thank you all in advance.


texts: Lower Gearing for Ultegra 11-speed setup

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Hello I have a touring bike with Shimano Ultegra 6800 shifters and derailleurs (11 speed).

I have a compact crank with 50/34 chainrings, and I have a 11-32 cassette.

I would like to get lower gearing for big climbs and I'm looking for the easiest way to do that.

It looks like the largest cog for 11-speed ultegra cassettes is 32 teeth.
Are 11-speed MTB cassettes compatible with my rear hub? If so, whats' the largest cog that the derailleur can accept?

If that won't work, could I put a smaller chain ring on my crank?


texts:
I gave my bike to the mechanic a few weeks ago since I have had some problems with my Token bottom bracket. He mounted a new Rotor BBright 4624L on my bike. Coming back from a gravel ride yesterday I heard that there is sand in the bottom bracket somewhere and I took off the crank to clean everything. There I saw that the tube that usually is connected with the bottom bracket is loose. Hopefully you can see this on the pictures. I have never seen something like that before and want to know whether this is normal.
My bike is an Open U.P.


texts: Are unicycles more, or less, efficient than walking? (or are they just for fun, entertainment and exercise?)

texts:
There are various sizes and shapes of (pedalled as opposed to electric) unicycles.
It is possible to buy them with large wheels, supposedly for road use.

Image still sourced from

Question
I imagine that the lack of a freewheel mechanism, having to brake by back pressure and the effort of balancing mean that they are inefficient and require constant effort. Also there are no gears for going up or down hills.
Does travelling by unicycle have any advantages over walking as a mode of transport? Would level city roads be most suitable? Does it ever become easy and/or completely subconscious with practice?


texts: Upgrade my Rear Cassette from 12/25t to 11/28t

texts:
I have a Specialized Secteur 8-speed road bike with a Shimano HG850 12/25t rear cassette running on a KMX Z type narrow chain my crankset is a 52/42/30, I have done about 2,000 miles so it's probably time to change my chain so why not the cassette as well.

I want to achieve a bit more top end to stop me spinning out without to a 10 speed and having to change the shifters. I have had a look on Sheldon Brown I and have found several combinations of new rear cassette from an 11/28t, 12/25t, 12/21t to a 13/26t

I have found several 8-speed cassette's with these ranges. Shimano (HyperGlide) HG-70 , HG-50 and SRAM (PowerGlide) PG830 ,PG850

However the HG-70-I is a new one on me I think it's an IG (Integrated Gear) I believe that the sprockets are thinner and closer together? Hhere is what Shimano website tells me.

All current HG cassette cogs are specially profiled to be HG or IG chain compatible.
Any Shimano IG chain will work with any HG cassette. If you use a HG chain with a 7-speed IG cassette (CS-IG50 and CS-IG60) the rear derailleur adjustment becomes more critical.
One significant compatibility issue is always to avoid using a HG chain with an IG-only crank set. Why? The chain will release from the large (outer) chain rings too easily while in the larger rear cog. It may be possible that the chain drops off the outer ring without shifting the lever, when under full power.

Also I have been told that I might need a longer rear mech to handle larger than 25t on the cassette not that I need to go any higher than 28t as I am running a triple chain set. I am not sure if my rear mech is a medium length if it helps my rear derailleur is a Shimano RD-2300 like the front.

Any help would be appreciated I am sure that I can do this for about £30 (£20 cassette and £10 chain) but I want to be sure.


texts: How to compensate broken thread in brake barrel adjuster?

texts:
On my disc brakes I realized the barrel cable adjuster has its thread broken and most of it is stuck inside the calliper.

The picture is not my brake but they are quite similar: the black barrel thread is broken and a part of it is stuck in the silver-y thing on the calliper.

I asked the support of the manufacturer and they say the spare part is not sold separately (and I don't know anyway how to remove the broken bit from the calliper).

Right now I just live without it, but it is quite neat to fine tune the brake cable length.

What are my options? Are there some "standalone" barrels that don't require to be screwed in the calliper? that could maybe be directly inlined in the housing?

Should I show it to my LBS and hope him to have some more or less compatible part in his magical drawers?

Should I buy a new calliper (<-- yes, that's overkill,.. but well...)


texts: Replace vintage barrel nipple Shimano shifter cable

texts:
My West German bike has an old friction shifter. The shifting cable snapped and I discovered the nipple is barrel shaped but horizontal, much like a MTB brake cable, but smaller. I can't figure out what this is called to find a replacement cable. I guess I could get a new shifter if I can't find this cable type?
.


texts: Is SRAM Apex crankset compatible with 6 speed chain and rear cassette

texts:
My bike's parts are in need of change and I wanted to do this in stages.

Currently it has shimano parts based on a triple mountian bike front crank and derailleur and six speed rear cassette and derailleur.

First part of the plan is to update the crankset to a SRAM Apex double 50/34 cranks.  So will this crankset be able to use a six speed chain connected to the rear cassette.

As a side I have confirmed with SRAM directly that their road gear is 100 % compatible with their mountian bike gear so my plan is to mix and match the Apex front end with X5 rear end equipement but I can only do this in stages.


texts:
While replacing the cable for my front disc brake, I lost the bolt and plate that attaches the cable to the calliper.
In this Park Tool guide, they call it a 'pinch bolt' — labelled E in the image below.
Unfortunately, searching for 'pinch bolt' doesn't come up with any parts that include the metal plate.
Does anyone know if it has another name? Or maybe it doesn't come as a separate part and I'm going to have to replace the whole calliper?
It's a Tektro Novela disc brake, this is the calliper I believe.
Thanks


texts: Looking for a new bike, any tips for buying a good bike?

texts:
So as the winter is coming and I have never ridden with a bicycle to work in winter I need a bike that can be fast, but at the same time safe for winter. I have heard that there are some winter tires for bikes, do they really work?  Any tips on those too?

Probably some of you are commuting to work with the bike a long time now and I hope I can get some good tips on that.
To be honest, I have never ridden a bike to work, so any kind of tips will be appreciated.


texts: How much food should I carry cycle touring and what factors affect this?

texts:
I am planning a cycle tour that will pass through some areas where I know there will be plenty of access to food and some areas that will be away from food for a day or two. I am going to Turkey, Georgia, cycling down through Azerbaijan, Armenia and Iran. I envisage that food will be easily available in Turkey, Georgia especially in towns but less so in remoter parts of Iran as my route will go through some of the lesser populated areas.
Any advice appreciated.


texts:
I'm trying to work out if my current brakes are long enough to work with 700C wheels (ie 622mm rim), rather than 630 (27").  The question I have is, will the wheel sit at the same point in the dropout? Do I need to factor in a different diameter quick release bolt? Or do they have the same diamater?

Will the frame spread make a difference?

Thanks

Tom


texts: Is it possible to make a larger bike fit a smaller person?

texts:
I bought a used road bike to commute into school each day (only about 4 miles roundtrip) and to go on casual rides for fun. I've only had it for about 3 weeks and prior to that have not had a bike since I was a kid. Anyway, I went to a bike store for the first time in this area and as I was getting a replacement tire for a flat, I was fitted. According the salesperson there, the bike I own is for a person 3" taller than me.

He suggested I test ride some bikes from the store and buy a new one, but I'm not able to do that right now. Is there anything I can do in the meantime to adjust the bike to better fit my body, besides buying a different bike?


texts:
I've got a 2011 Trek 1.1, and my derailleur hanger broke in a crash a few weeks ago. I've tried both a number 5 and number 6 hanger, which are what WheelsMFG has listed, but neither seem to fit. There is not any damage to the frame, so I'm at a loss as to why these won't fit. The old derailleur hanger is chewed up, and I can't make out what number it is.

Can anyone suggest a better hanger that I can buy?


texts: As a follow-up to "What should I look for in a good pair of cycling shorts?," how long should I expect a good pair of cycling shorts (regular or bib) last? I think that an estimate in hours or km would be more useful than months or years(?). Is there an objective way to know when I should replace a worn out pair?


texts:
Basically when pushing the button to shift gear I can only get one speed up and one speed down. I tried adjusting derailer and the tightness on cables but it makes no difference.

Figured I'd make a video to explain it better
here you go.

thanks and  ask questions if needed


texts: What is the difference between a speedometer and a power meter in terms of performance measurement?

texts:
If I cycle the same route every day, what would be the benefit of having a power meter over a speedometer?

Can't I just measure my speed and compare it against my last run and see if I've done better?


texts: Discrepancy between old chain length and largest chainring largest cog method

texts:
Putting on a new chain.  First counted the links on the old chain - which I never had reason to think was the wrong length. But since I felt like being thorough I also measured using the largest cog to largest chainring method.

Largest cog to largest chainring comes up with a measurement 7 links shorter than my old chain.  Advice on which to use?  Is it possible my old chain was too long and I just never noticed? Don't want to end up with too short a chain.


texts:
Do you know a collection of vintage road-bike, with pictures of their old school style and actual argus price.

I just bought a Mercier and I wonder, how much it can cost nowdays...


texts: Controlling the state of bicycle components

texts:
I tried to formalize the maintenance of a bicycle. Every component must be periodically checked using the following algorithm:

Begin
    1: Wait for appropriate time
    Measure the component wearout
    Is it ok?
        yes: go to (1)
        no:
            Is the damage critical?
                yes: replace
                no: repair
End

Every component has a method of measuring it's state. The best one is a special tool, giving the precise value of wearout. But not every one has it. I created a table for all the components I could think of:

|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|
| Component                    | Measuring method                            |
|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|
| Chain dirty, needs           | Visual inspection.                          |
| cleaning and lubrication     | Chain links become stuck to each other.     |
|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|
| Chain elongation             | Special tool                                |
| Rear cassette gears worn out | Special tool                                |
| Front chain ring worn out    | ?                                           |
| Tires                        | Visual inspection.                          |
| Tubes                        | ?                                           |
| V-brake pads                 | Feeling of bad breaking. Visual inspection. |
| Disk brakes disks            | ?                                           |
| Cables                       | ?                                           |
| Fork                         | ?                                           |
| Oil inside fork              | ?                                           |
|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|

There are more component that also require inspection and replacement.

Can somebody fill in the question marks in my table?


texts: My e-bike wiring is damaged and I don't know where to begin

texts:
I was given a bike with an electric rear hub. I'm mechanically inclined but I've never had the opportunity to tinker with one of these. I'm fairly experienced with AC and DC electronics as well.
If anyone could help with where to start, I'd appreciate any advice or direction at all.
Thank-you...


texts: What chainrings are compatible with the Dura Ace 7900 crankset (apart from 7900 chainrings)?

texts: I need to get a 52t chainring for my 7900 Dura Ace crankset but am not willing to spend 150 euro on a chainring. Would an Ultegra 52t 6700 chainring work on the 7900 Dura Ace crankset ?


texts: Can you tell me what the name of this bike is?

texts: This is my bike from the 1970's and now 49 years later I would love to start looking for another one. I do not know the brand. Can anyone help?


texts:
I have a 2004 Jamis Dakar 3.0

My front wheel was stolen a few weeks ago and since I am not the best at bike mechanics I had a few questions.

Wheel:

When looking for wheel do I just need to look for 26" (or are there other attributes i need to look at to ensure compatibility)?

Wheels I'm looking at: SRAM RISE 40 Wheels

Tire:

One tire I have picked out has 26 x 2.3-Inch as its size, so similar to the above question how do I ensure this will all be compatible?

Tires I'm looking at: Maxxis EXO Dual Compound Minion

Brakes:

Can I just expect that a 160m rotor will fit on the wheel and will also align with existing caliper?

Brake rotor I'm looking at: 160mm Rotor

Front Suspension:

My front suspension is in need of replacing or an overhaul. Since the kit is $25 and the labor to get it done will probably be costly, I was wondering (once again similar to above) how would I find a replacement that would be compatible with my bike?

Front suspension I'm looking at: SR SUNTOUR Mountain Bike Disc Fork


texts: What does it mean - can be made into a double?

texts:
Sugino Single Speed Arm Set 175mm Black 130mm

In the description it says: RD2 can be made into a double with double bolt sets.
Can I use these crankarms on my 2 front - 8 rear speed road bike?

What other parameters I should research before buying it?
(130mm BCD, 110mm bottom bracket)


texts:
I have a Giant Defy 9-speed road bike, and a thief stole the front wheel. I found a good deal on a set of used Bontrager (Edit: Mavic Aksium) wheels, so I bought them as a set. I want to swap both wheels so that they match, and also because the new wheel is 72g lighter. Probably a higher quality wheel overall. The trouble is, it's a 7-speed.

I know how to change a cassette, but I've never changed a hub. I can see that the 7-speed hub is smaller, so 9 gears won't fit. Can I move the 9-speed cassette over? I'm guessing there might be some kind of compatibility issues, but I don't know what to look for.

Edit: I just realized the Mavic hub has a spacer behind the cassette, which can be removed, leaving enough room for 9 sprockets. But now the locknut doesn't quite tighten all the way, it looks like I need to add a spacer of less than 1mm.


texts: Must a Bicyclist Riding on a Sidewalk Stop at a Stop Sign?

texts:
Riding my bicycle legally on the sidewalk, I approach an intersection controlled by a stop sign. Let's say there are wheelchair ramps at the intersection, and there may or may not be painted pedestrian crosswalk lines. Must I make a full stop before crossing the side street?

My question pertains to California law but I realize that the answer may differ in other jurisdictions. Also, it may make a difference whether or not there are painted crosswalk lines, and whether the road is to my left or to my right.

The strategy, if legal, may be useful to bicyclists who may avoid having to make a full stop by riding on the sidewalk shortly before reaching the intersection.

Another situation is a 3 way intersection with 3 stop signs where I am not crossing a side street. If I am on the street, I know I must stop, but I am quite confident that I am not required to stop if I am on the sidewalk.

As a side issue, it does appear that it is legal for me to ride on the sidewalk in California with the road to my right and continue to ride between the crosswalk lines across an intersecting street. California law treats the crosswalk as an extension of the sidewalk, thus giving me the same rights that I have on the sidewalk.


texts:
See picture below, I am in this situation with a new alluminium frame (don't ask me how I ended up here, it's a heartbreaking story.) It’s a Cinelli Mash Parallax.

The headtube has a dent and I don't know exactly what caused it, but the frame has allegedly never been used.
With a bit of a stronger push than usual, my lbs mechanic managed to fit the headset. As for now, the bearings don't seem to be compressed by the dent, but I am still worried. I am going to ride this bike on the track, so I want it to be very reliable.

How safe is it? Do you suggest I try to fix the dent or will I only make it worse?

More photos here: https://imgur.com/a/JdZKwU1


texts:
I'm doing some amateur climbing with a hybrid bike up on a road and I have the following question:

How am I going to save more power - having a lower gear but spinning faster in order to maintain certain speed or getting up to a higher gear but spinning slower to aim for that same speed?

I would love some feedback as I'm experimenting in the mountains but every day is different in regards to moisture, temperature, sun exposure, nutrition in the morning, etc. and at this point it's hard to make a good conclusion so I'm looking for some science to help with this question.


texts: I have just brought the Trek Fuel ex8 (on Christmas) and already the back brake is squeaking. Also both the front and back are not very sensitive and are not stopping the bike very well. I've looked on youtube how to tighten them but there not really giving me a direct answer. Any help?


texts: Sequence for a complete road bike overhaul

texts:
I have a road bike that I plan to completely overhaul soon. Over the years, and with several bikes, I have overhauled most every component, but have never managed to do this for an entire bike, start to finish.

Is there an optimal sequence for a bike overhaul? Or does it matter?


texts: Why use multiple materials on chainrings?

texts:
Why is it that on a typical mid-level road triple crankset, the outer rings (larger rings) will be aluminum, while the inner ring (small ring) is chro-mo?

It seems to me that if aluminium was good enough for one, it'd be good enough for all.

Does it have to do with the amount of force applied to each ring? Perhaps the smallest ring is likely to be used in climbing situations, when the cyclist is standing, so the most force is being applied to the crank at that point (and thus you need a stronger ring)?


texts: Chainrings for Shimano FC-M760 crank worn out, need help

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Problem: I have Shimano XT FC-M760 cranks 22/32/44t on my MTB. BCD=104/64, 4 bolt. Need to replace all rings; I'm open to any solution other than changing to 2x/1x (2x10 not enough gear range, 1x11 too expensive).
Everywhere I look the big ring is discontinued or out of stock. Small/middle are hard to find but I eventually found a source.Tried to find replacement triple crank, very few options available, no XT. Tried ebay, prices are high and parts are worn. I tried to buy compatible Shimano rings (hone/saint), no luck.
specific questions:

Any links that show what rings (brand/model) fit those cranks? I know there may be a problem with the "tab length".
Any sources that sell the big ring (42 or 44t)?

Update:
Bought Truvativ Trushift rings. Middle ring did not fit, big ring fit but I had to file down the pin (see longer comment below).


texts: I was in Florence Italy last week and saw this bike parked up. Can anyone help to identify what model this may be. Any information would be useful.


texts:
I received a trainer that fits my mountain bike. I am trying to find a tire that is quiet.

I can't find any online that are the same size as my current tire which is 26 x 2.25. I found only one close which is the WTB ThickSlick Comp tire 26 x 2.0. No real trainer tires at my size.

Any recommendations on trainer tires at this size? or will a 2.00 tire fit on a rim that holds a 2.25?


texts:
I just recently bought a used Orbea road bike. The tires are currently iRC Jetty 700x23c on Omega ETRTO 622x13c rims.

is possible to change my tires to a bigger ones than the existing/ Possibly changing to 28c tires.

I am using the road bike to commute to work and cycle leisure on weekends but in my area there are lot of tram lines. Twice I got stuck in them, which is quite scary and dangerous. So I'm hoping this is possible, as I can't afford to get new rims too. Not at the moment.


texts: Securing sliding bar grips without hair spray?

texts:
I have some Bell anatomic handlebar grips that tend to slide (rotate) on the bar. I've read that using hair spray is useful, but tends to be rather permanent. I'd like to make the grip tackier but not a permanent application. Would any of these techniques be worthwhile?

a strip of masking tape on the bar, or run along the inside of the grip?
a modest swipe of honey in the grip before application?
a segment of innertube between the two?

Anything else I should consider?

Update

I have rubbed the inside of the grips out with an isopropyl soaked rag and rubbed down the handlebars of two of the bikes and this has helped a lot. Some advice I got from my favorite LBS mechanic was specific to the black tooth finish on my SKS bars: his advice was to wrap bars with a bit of electrical tape. I will try that, as the grips on the black bars are a bit firmer, but are still not great. Thank you for your answers!

Update

A single wrap of electrical tape on the black SKS bars was just the trick! I did a spread spiral with the tape, and was able to twist the grips on in the same direction as the spiral. (No hair spray has yet made it to my shed.)


texts: Dura-Ace R9100 Bottom Bracket With A Dura-Ace FC-7900 Crankset?

texts:
I have just purchased a Dura-Ace FC-7900 crankset and I am trying to find a good, readily available bottom bracket to pair with it.

With Shimano's Hollowtech II and Octalink II technologies, will the Dura-Ace R9100 bottom bracket work with the 7900 cranks?

I appreciate any advice.

Cheers,
Smithy


texts:
I have got a new set of clipless pedals and shoes. Hardly used it for some 15 rides.
Whenever I use it I feel a pain on my left foot's 5th Metatarcel and Cuboid bones.
There is no pain whatsoever on the right foot.
I am using this pedals and this pair of shoes.

On the right set, The shoe is tightly set to the pedals after locking, that is, there is no lateral swivelling of my foot while riding.
But on the left side, my foot slightly swivels laterally. Could this be the reason?

Please let me know, if you had any similar pain and how you controlled it...


texts:
I'm trying to get into cycling. I have a Forme Longcliffe 3.0 2013 and shoes and cleats.

I want to get quicker and build my endurance.

I do 6 miles (10 km) in 22:51 and average 15.4 mph (26 kph). I have realised my tyres where under pressure so I am experimenting with 120psi what speed difference should I expect previous psi 65.

Do you have any training advice?


texts: Dura Ace 7700 rear derailleur will not fit into hanger

texts: I am in the process of building up a Cannondale CAAD4 Saeco team frame using Dura Ace 7700 components from the same era of the frame. I am learning as I go along, so I apologize if these questions sound stupid. I have found a Dura Ace 7700 rear derailleur short arm but it does not fit into the hanger tab that is currently on the bike. Is there a way to change the screw on the derailleur itself or replace the hanger tab? (It looks like it is an added component).


texts: I tried to adjust the pads on my rear brakes but it caused some mineral oil to leak. Not sure why. I only used couple screws to allow brake pads to adjust. What could cause the leakage? What should be next step to fix? Will adding oil help?


texts: Disassembling Shimano integrated gear shifters (brifters)

texts:
The up-shift lever (the long one) on my gear shifter for the front derailleur got stuck and now I'm looking for a way to disassemble it.

Is there a way to do it without removing it from the handlebars?


texts: What's the foot retention used by pro track cyclists?

texts:
I have recently started hitting my local velodrome in Herne Hill and it's great fun.
I notice the majority of experienced riders use road pedals such as Look or SPD-SL. The rental bikes just have toe-clips and straps but I, among others, bring along my own pedals which are SPD which work fine.

I noticed when watching the Olympics and other pro velodrome events that the riders appear to have straps on their pedals. What system are they using? Does it combine a road pedal with a strap for extra stiffness or is it a secret custom-made system?


texts: Need to know what bike I have the serial # is LP9 0246 badge # is 0589

texts: I believe I have a 1978 Schwinn cruiser the serial number is on the bottom of the Frame and it reads just like this LP9 0246 and the badge number is 0589 can someone tell me what I have?


texts: New chain, new cassette, new trainer...new noises

texts:
I recently got a Tacx Flux 2 Smart trainer (because lockdown) and decided to get a new cassette and chain as well, since I won't be doing any riding anytime soon and would like to keep everything nice and clean in the house.
I installed the cassette on the trainer,checked I was using the right adapters for cassette and QR, and then measured the new chain against the old one (they are the same KMC 9 speed), making sure they were exactly the same length. I then installed the chain with the supplied quick link, making sure it is routed the right way through the jockey wheels.
However, I now get a very clear droning, grinding noise and perceivable vibration when in the smaller 3 rings. The noise almost disappears when in lower gears. The shifting fine though, and I can get shift in all gears.
I have no idea what can be wrong and it feels almost like the chain has a hard time slotting into the teeth of the chain rings. Almost like the each roller slightly hits every tooth before grabbing on. If I had to describe it in an onomatopea, it would be a grindy "RRRrRrrrrrrRRrrrRrRrrrRr"
What could be the cause of this? Is it just because the chain and cassette both need to be bedded in? Is it lubrication?
** UPDATE **
I finally managed to ride the bike outside and cannot reproduce the same noise or vibration. It seems that the issue is with the bike one the trainer.


texts:
I have a couple of commuter bikes with bullhorn handlebars. When I replace the tape on them, I always have heaps left over, since the bars are much shorter overall than standard drop bars. There's never enough to do both sides of the bar with a single roll though, so I end up throwing out a lot of tape.

Can I get tape in a continuous roll, rather than pre-cut sections? I assume workshops would buy their tape in longer lengths, but I can't find any sources for it.


texts: Can I convert a rim brake wheel to a disc brake wheel?

texts:
I recently bought some Roval SLX 24's from eBay.  I made a pretty silly error and didn't check whether they were rim or disc brakes.  I need them to be disc brakes.

Should they be rim brakes, will I be able to convert them to disc brakes for my Cannondale 2015 CAADX Sora?


texts: What are the disadvantages of securing your foot to the pedal?

texts:
I understand that there are many benefits when it comes to different methods of securing your foot to the pedal, and how they allow for more power through an entire revolution of the pedal.

However I am struggling to find a source talking about the disadvantages of these systems. If you know of any different disadvantages for different types, please explain.


texts: I have a Rockrider btwin 6.2 full-suspension mountain bike. After 3 years of use, most of the parts were shot. I replaced most of them but also noticed that the swingarm pivot seems to have a seemingly unsafe amount of play. It surely seems to move more than 3-4mm. Before i try to open than and see what's up, is there anyone who has had a similar problem? or who know whether the bearings are standard/available and if at all it's easy/possible to fix it? considering this isn't a very expensive mountain bike. Would still like to keep it though, serves the commute to office and the outdoors on weekends. Thanks.


texts:
I have an OnGuard u-lock with only one key.  I contacted OnGuard about getting a backup, but it requires a serial number which was included with the original packaging.  The number is not on the lock or key itself.

So now I'm wondering if some locksmiths can copy such keys.

I realize this description is inadequate, but for what its worth, the shaft of the key is fairly rectangular.


texts: Are tubeless tyres an upgrade from tubed tyres, or just different?

texts:
Bicycle tires have reached a good degree of practicality with clincher tires as used with inner tubes.
Unless riding over sharp objects that have a tendency to puncture the tire, punctures are extremely rare. When an inner tube is punctured, most of the time the damage is limited to the inner tube, which can be repaired to be nearly as good as new in 99% of the cases with glue-type patches. The cost of such a patch is a fraction of a dollar. In very rare cases, the outer tire is damaged necessitating sticking an adhesive tire boot to it as a temporary solution and replacement as a permanent solution. Most outer tires do not die of damage but rather of old age, i.e. worn tread. Thus, the fact that a tire boot is only a temporary repair and not a permanent one is not a big monetary issue.
Inner tubes with factory-installed sealant "slime" are available, but because of the rarity of punctures, such "slime"-type inner tubes have not reached major acceptance. Nevertheless, the slime tubes can be found for sale for those who absolutely hate patching tubes.
However, nowadays tubeless tires seem to be arriving. A true merit of tubeless tires is avoiding one type of user error: pinch flats. The user error requires the presence of three conditions: (1) the tire must have a narrow cross section, (2) the tire must be underinflated, (3) the rider must go over a bump at too high speed. I have recently not had pinch flats because I try to avoid every one of these conditions.
However, it could be argued that this merit of tubeless tires is false sense of safety. When one learns to ride at high speed over obstacles with underinflated narrow cross section tires, the probability of rim damage increases. Thus, the possibility of pinch flats (that can be repaired easily with lightweight tools you carry with you) is very good in preventing the possibility of rim damage (that might be tricky to repair at roadside).
As I understand it, tubeless tires are often (always?) used with a sealant "slime" that seals some of the punctures. However, I have some suspicions about the merit of tubeless tires:

What if the puncture is not adequately sealed by the sealant? Can I patch a tubeless tyre in a permanent way with a glue-type patch? A permanent repair without a slow leak for inner tubes is easiest when you always carry one spare tube so that you let the glue dry before using the newly patched tube. Unless some major form of technology breakthrough has occurred of which I'm not aware, if a tubeless tyre can be permanently repaired at all (which I suspect won't be the case because of the sealant "slime"), you should always carry one spare tubeless tire with you to let the patch glue dry. Carrying a spare tire takes more space and weight than carrying a spare tube.
What if the cords of the tire are damaged? With a tube-type tire, there is no sealant "slime" so I am certain that an adhesive tire boot will stick to the inside of the tire. However, with tubeless tires, the sealant might make it more difficult to ensure the adhesive tire boot stays in the intended place.

So, why should I care about tubeless tires? I see them as a non-repairable solution that harms the use of emergency tire boots and at the same time encourages the rider to cause rim damage.


texts: Fixing/replacing rim/wheel with Internal Gear Hubs (Nexus 3)

texts: My rear wheel's rim is severely damaged and I want to replace the rim. I don't want to respoke it, so first question, is it possible to buy new prebuilt wheel somehow without the transmission itself, may be with hub shell, without hub internals? Or I have to buy rim and respoke it?


texts:
My chain fell out while switching the gears and now it is stuck between the chainring and the frame. (I'm not a native speaker nor a bicycle expert, the terms may be wrong)

I tried to unscrew the bolts on the crank arm to remove the crank arm and the chain ring, but it didn't move after removing the bolt. How do I remove it or is there even a better option to get the chain out there?

Update: I managed to wiggle the chain free with some force and it looked like the limit of the derailleur was not set correctly. In the picture you see like it looked before adjusting.


texts:
I want to get a bottle holder for my bike.

It has no pre-drilled holes for the holder.

I found some that clamp on but not sure if they would work with the wide tube that I would need to mount it to.


texts: Do good tires lessen the chances of your innertube bursting?

texts:
I have only bought my bike for a month and a half and within this time span, my innertube actually burst 4 times. The bike itself is relatively cheap so I doubt that the tires are of good quality.
I am currently considering changing my tires to better ones so as to not waste money on tubes anymore, but do tires really lessen the chances of my innertubes bursting/puncturing?


texts: I'm changing from 8-speed to 10-speed will I need to replace my rear Hub?

texts:
I've dug an old road bike out of the garage for the winter and need to upgrade the drive-train, I'm happy about most of what I need but but I'm not sure about the rear hub (an old Shimano Ultegra)..

..Will I need to change the rear hub/wheel to accommodate a 10-Speed cassette?


texts: How to measure spoke length on the wheel?

texts: How do I measure the spoke length for my mountain bike without taking one off the wheel.  I know some length are very similar and in the past I have bought the wrong length.


texts: Can tubes be used in tubeless rims as well as tires?

texts:
I've gotten a bike with very nice tubeless wheels, however I have little experience with fixing or replacing tubeless tires/wheels. I would much prefer to be able to put a regular mountain bike tube in the tire and rim without problems or much hassle.
Is this possible?


texts:
The way I know how to measure frame size is by measuring from the center of the cranks to to top of the seat tube.

I ordered a 16" bike from Halfords but the seat tube is only 9". On the box it says 16" x 9" what???? sso where does the 16" come from?

So my neice is 115cm tall. According to halfords size guide a 16" will be fine for her since her daddy has got her a 14" but thats in london.

Is it me thats order the wrong size or has the oem packed in the wrong bike?


texts: Cartridge bottom bracket with lockring on one side only

texts:
NB There is an edit to this post added 06.02.2017

I need to replace the 68/118 BB on my Giant Rock (made around 2000 I think). It has a locking ring on one side only as shown in the photos. The problem is I can't find one like this online. The nearest I've found was on Sheldon Brown's website but I can only post two links/photos with my reputation so you'd need to google "Cartridges with a lockring on each end" if you're interested.

I want to order the right spares and tools the first time round (to avoid paying for two deliveries) so my questions are:

Do I need to get any special tools other than the obvious: BB tool and lockring tool?
What replacement part do I need? Can I use a BB without lockrings, a BB with two lockrings, or does it have to be a BB with just one? Specific model recommendations would be welcome but not essential - it's the type I need to figure out.

If it helps, the thread on the chainside crank (used to attach the crank remover) had some wear on it, so there may have been some work done on this setup in the past, but I don't know how to tell if there used to be a locking ring on both sides. Please do let me know if further info is needed to answer the questions.

bottom bracket right end (nearest to the chain)

bottom bracket left end (furthest from the chain)

Edit on Tue 06.02.2017

Hello, I have browsed the web for a bit longer, and came across some info which I'd like to share here. Hopefully it helps someone make a more specific judgment of what the crack is with my bike.

There are some shops and ebay listings offering a "semi sealed" bottom bracket:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-BOTTOM-BRACKET-VINTAGE-BALL-BEARINGS-STYLE-118mm-or-126mm-IN-BLACK-ONLY/331915747544

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raleigh-Bikes-Bottom-Bracket-Set-Semi-Sealed-Axle-118mm-Black-/141399887346

There is also this youtube video which I gave its 76th view and which leaves more questions than answers:

The sales listings quoted above don't seem to explain clearly what the difference is between an average cartridge bottom bracket
 (like a shimano bb un55) and a "semi-sealed" unit. In fact, most results I get on google for  >>"semi sealed" bottom bracket<< are from ebay and shops. The main point however is the fact that there is indeed a locking ring on one side only on these.

Now then, I can get a NECO B910 sold with the BB tool for £12, whereas a semi-sealed unit and a BB tool have to be bought separate and add up to at least £16. So the cheapest semi sealed is a few GBP more than the cheapest model without the single locking rings, and I'm not totally clear if I can use either, or only the semi sealed. I don't have the budget for error, so I would really do with some hints here. It seems I have four options really:

Buy a BB tool on its own, get my BB out and take it from there - I might do that if I don't get a definite response on here in a few days, but this will cost more if it turns out I could have bought the £12 BB combo in the first place
If someone is able to positively identify that the unit I've got can only be replaced with a semi-sealed BB, I will buy one of those from a source where it's cheapest to buy the part and a BB tool (with delivery)
Ebay listing 331915747544 linked above seems to suggest this type can be taken apart and bearings can be replaced while keeping the rest of the assembly - if someone can confirm that
, I will probably end up buying just a BB tool first to identify bearing size etc, but at least I will have a reason for it.
If someone is able to positively identify that the unit I've got can be replaced with that NECO B910 or another similar BB without a lockring on one side, I will get that £12 set. This could in effect be what CardMechanic says (thanks for your response), but he hasn't mentioned "semi-sealed", so I'm not sure he considered the option that one of these might be required.

Thanks in advance for any input!


texts: How do I stop my EBB (Eccentric Bottom Bracket) from creaking?

texts:
I have a '09 Felt Niner 29" SS with an EBB. After a thorough clean and reassembly of the BB the creaking will subside for a ride or so and then come back. Any suggestions?

EDIT: the problem appears to be dirt getting into the bottom bracket area. The combination of sweat, water bottle drip'age or post ride spray down results in dirt getting into the BB area. The only way I can see to prevent the creaking is to somehow seal off the exposed face of the BB preventing dirt from getting inside.


texts:
I've got a good deal and bought a new bike with full Shimano XT groupset and 2x Drivetrain which I am not fully satisfied with, it has 34/24 and 11-42 setup.

I would prefer 1x more but not going to invest in transformation at the moment.

My question is - as it's not a good general practice to combine lowest-lowest and highest-highest rings (I'm coming from Roadies world), will it be bad to use 34T in front in combination with 42T on rear?

I'd rather not to use the front derailleur at all (would be happier with dropper instead).


texts: Why so few mountain bikers with spandex?

texts:
I've never had clothing that was specialized for cycling, so I'm kinda n00b in that area.

I am confused about the use of spandex.

It's very common among roadies, for obvious reasons. It's more comfortable, has less friction on the seat, and is more aerodynamic.

Why doesn't it make sense for mountain bikers? You do see plenty of XC riders with spandex, but not in "120-160mm travel" areas like trail/enduro. Those guys seem to use basic shorts of one type or another, that catch air and might catch on branches.

Why isn't spandex just as common in the mtb circles? Is it a cultural thing?


texts: How to avoid hand strain when landing with a road bike?

texts:
Whenever landing from a bunny-hop or jumping a couple of stairs, my hands strain just above the wrist. How can this be remedied?

Things I have tried:

Warming up before going out.
Position the handlebars, so that the hoods are parallel to the ground, so that my writs are straight. This results in extremely uncomfortable drops position (wrist rotate at an extreme angle if I want to clear the brakes).
Staying relaxed on impact. Absorbing as much as possible with the legs.
Keeping the wind away from my joints.

Things I haven't tried:

carbon forks
gel gloves
lower tire pressure (35x622 tires @ 7bar)
landing back tire first

Meta: This is no question, whose answer can not be verified quickly. I have upvoted all the answer and will, or will not, accept one as 'best' some day.


texts: What is the width of Giant CR41, 32-hole rims

texts:
I'm tuning up a 2010 Giant TCX 2 which has Giant CR41, 32-hole rims as the only information I can find. There's nothing printed on the rims themselves either.
Right now it's using the 700 x 35c Kenda Small Block Eight folding 120TPI tyres that it came with but I'd like to change to slicks and have found some 28c's that are an amazing deal.

As per Sheldon Brown I'm likely ok putting on 28c's since they fall within the range of rim where you'd find 35c's but not always.

My ability to measure this at home is limited by my lack of a ruler. Surely this information is available somewhere.


texts: What Factors Should I Consider When Picking a Base Bar

texts:
So I have a road bike, with STI shifters, but I'm looking to do an Iron Man. I've done centuries before on the bike just staying on the low bars, but I've found that the swim is just so exhausting for my arms and shoulders that I really need to go to aerobars.

I wanted to just get a new base bar with integrated aerobars so I wouldn't be carrying the extra weight of my roadbike handlebars. What's involved in that though?

I'm assuming that I'd need to replace my shifters?
I'm looking for aggressive posture, but I'm assuming this will require my handlebars to come with a fair amount of padding given the duration?
The Ironman I'm doing is very flat, should that play into my selection at all?


texts:
Long time Shimano brakes user, I've recently (few months ago) got a new MTB with Sram Guide R brakes. At the beginning those felt great - not as "biting" as Shimano SLX / XT I'm used to, but feeling solid with great modulation.

Unfortunately after some time (few weeks) a rear brake started to get mushy / spongy. This started to happen after long rides with steep descend where lots of braking was needed (nothing excessive, though...). I've assumed that this is classical "I need bleeding" sign and did bleeding - saw air bubbles coming out, brakes started to feel good again. Was hoping that things are good but after another week of hard riding the problem returned. Another bleeding, another good week and the problem was back again.

After bleeding those brakes those brakes 3 or 4 times and getting only about a week of good performance after each bleeding I've assumed that I got defective brakes and replaced them with a new (same model, Sram Guide R). And... guess what - I got 2 weeks of good riding and good feel and the rear brake starts to get mushy again!

At this point I'm super puzzled and really don't understand what is going on. I would appreciate any pointers that would help me to diagnose the problem.

One more observation - tying a brake lever for a few hours (like if it would be pressed when using a brake) "returns" the good feel of the lever for a while...

Totally puzzled, looking for any insights / diagnosis ideas...


texts: What use does a Heart Rate Monitor have if you have a Powermeter?

texts: When should you be riding by HR instead of Power and what can you learn from a HRM when you're riding by Power?


texts:
I just got an addmotor m-66 r7, I am a bigger rider and am finding I need a just a bit more leg room between me and the pedals to make pedaling enjoyable since the seat is a stationary banana seat.
I was thinking of adding in a spacer of some sort between the seat and the frame to bump up the height of the seat.
Any ideas on a mod to accomplish more height?


texts: How to Reattach Cable End for Road Drop Bar Brake Lever

texts: I was installing new brakes and I pulled too hard on the lever and the cable end disconnected from the brake lever. I'm having trouble reattaching it because it can only be pulled out so far due to the cable housing and it's such a small space. Is there a specific tool i need to use because this happened to me once before and the guy at the bike shop fixed it without removing the housing. I don't want to keep going back to a bike shop every time this happens so I need to know how to do it on my own if I am out on a ride.


texts: Benefits of latex tubes... Are they worth it?

texts:
Is using latex inner tubes worth it?

My use of it would be on a racing bike, for training and racing purposes, only on road, mostly in good condition (but in an urban environment so there are some worse spots...).

I ride on a set of Conti 4Season 23mm tyres which weigh 230g each and I love them so far (have them also on my touring bike and I suffered 2 punctures in 10000 km, find them fast and grippy).

My current tubes are 105g and the latex ones I am looking at are 82g so an overall gain of 46g on the whole bike which does not seem completely negligible since it is a moving part...

As I said, I intend using this on racing and training, so I will never ride without a track pump more than a day so pressure loss should not be a problem assuming it can keep enough pressure for a couple of days (I am saying two because I need one whole day of fully usable pressure). So will the pressure be an issue for me?

How about comfort and rolling resistance? I read here and there comfort is increased and resistance is lowered. How noticable is it? and again: is it worth it?

Also, I hear the elasticity of latex allows it to puncture less and even when it does to lose pressure slowly (compared to butyl) and ride home with a few pumps. It that true?

And when it does puncture, can it be fixed with regular patches?

Finally, are there any precautions to be taken while mounting it, pitfalls to avoid and so on?

Overall, is it worth it?


texts:
By 'open-source', I mean where people see the internals of each other's designs, and build on each other's works, as they do in science (or in 'open-source' software development).

I am a bit tired of 'black box, it's just magic' methods where I'm expected to simply believe in something, without being able to see exactly what that thing is and how it works.

I think it is very cool to reuse ideas and plans: so are there 'open-source' bike designs?


texts:
As per my troubleshooting to find a bike creak (Ultegra FC-R8000 Right Crank Arm Creak) - I have installed and removed the same chainring bolts ~8 times. In the process I snapped one of them. Each of my installs have used a torque wrench at 14Nm with a Torx T30 bit.

I have noticed that when installed on a crank it seems more difficult to push the T30 into the bolt, but when they are removed it is easy to slide the bit into the bolts.

Has anyone else experienced this behaviour from these (or other Shimano) chainring bolts? Am I doing something wrong if this is happening?


texts: Should I feel self-conscious wearing cycling shorts to school?

texts: I cycle to school and intend to wear my new Lycra shorts for my commute as they are much more comfortable. But I want to know if I will look dumb wearing the tight shorts, as my legs are only average and I'm only 15, and also if it will be weird stripping down to no underwear when I get changed in the locker room at school.


texts: What is the difference between disk brake rotors?

texts:
Differences in rotors include size, thickness, pattern cut out of the metal and attachment to the hub. What other differences are their and why? Reason I ask is I recently built up a budget mountain bike and most parts I bought or borrowed from other bikes. One part I borrowed is the discs from another very cheap mountain bike I had (an Apollo) - they seem thicker and heavier than the discs on a Kona Hoss that I have. The brakes on my bike build aren't working brilliantly. Braking is ok but there isn't much modulation. They aren't expensive brakes but they were bought new - Shimano alivio and I'm wondering if the type of discs do play a part?

This question has another answer here


texts: Chain getting stuck between large chain ring and front mech when changing into big ring

texts: 15+ year old Scott MTB. When changing gear from mid to large chain ring the chain gets pinched between the mech and the large chain ring. Tried adjusting the max min screws, problem persists. Old bike so wondering if the price to get a new chain set that will fit presumably non-standard bottom bracket will be worth it. Thanks in advance


texts: Chain slips off biggest cog under torque

texts:
I have a relatively new Bottecchia bicycle, about a year and a half year old and underwent about 8,000km.

I almost always use the biggest cog on the front cassette. Lately I noticed that as I apply a lot of torque, i.e. when accelerating from a stop (in high gear), or surely when I stand up, the chain slips -- at least that's what I think that's happening. What I actually experience is a cracking noise, the pedals don't effect the chain for a split second, and then it's back to normal. It is important to say that it doesn't happen to me if I switch to a lower gear on the front crank (but it doesn't matter which gear I'm on at the rear).

I have several ideas as to what may cause the problem. Firstly I thought it may have to do with broken or worn off cog. That is possible because I think I may have over-lubricated the chain last time, and I experienced a sand storm. However I think it may not be the case because it happens regardless of where my pedals are (if I had one broken teeth, for example, I would expect it to happen only when my right pedal is at, say, 7 o'clock or something).

Another possible reason is that maybe I have a problem with the front derailleur -- as I started using the middle gear more often, I noticed that I have problems getting back to the top gear (no problem going down) -- I hear cranking sounds, and often it wouldn't shift until I push the shifter further (even though it doesn't move further, it probably pushes the derailleur a bit, enough to make the jump). It also happened once or twice that under torque the chain slipped to the middle gear.

Third reason I could think of is a worn off chain -- as I said it has served me for probably around 8,000km, and I also noticed there's a noticeable gap between the chain and the wheel (I'll post pictures shortly).

Here are some pictures I took. I hope they're helpful in identifying the cause of it, if not I can take more.

Thank you very much!


texts: Dog Trailer Wheel size - for commuting/touring

texts: I'm upgrading my dog's ride from our old beat-up kid Burley, to a trailer made specifically for pets. I've found one with aluminum frame that looks affordable & comfy for my pooch.... Question: would 16" or 20" wheels be better for a variety of road conditions, including off-road?  Don't want it to be so bouncy for him that he gets sea-sick. Thanks in advance!


texts: Relationship between chain tension and chain wear

texts:
On a 10 speed road bike, what is the ideal chain tension?

I was recently told (by a bike shop) that my rear derailleur should be fully extended (pointing forward) when the chain is between the 2 biggest cogs.

Does a riding with high tension decrease your chain life quicker? It seems logical that it would, so perhaps I was given bad advice.


texts: Are there any maps of taps where I can fill my water bottles (bidons) on long rides. I live in Scotland, but would be glad to learn of the existence of such resources worldwide.


texts: What's the point in a freewheel/cassette with incrementally sized rings?

texts: Pictured is a freewheel with 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 20 tooth sprockets. What I don't understand is why such small increments are worthwhile. Surely the point of having gears is the variance that they provide? Please enlighten me.


texts:
I want to decrease the reach of my handlebars.
Does it matter whether I increase the height or get a stem with a smaller length(extension?) on my bike?

And is there any way to calculate the relation between the two? Something like, a 1 cm increase in height is equivalent to a 1.5 cm increase in length?

Background : I have an old single bolt handlebar stem(see image) with it's minimum insertion not visible(if it ever had one). When I raised it enough for it to be somewhat comfortable it started creaking every time I put power while pedaling or while climbing off the saddle.
I have another similar stem that is slightly more than 1 cm longer but has it's minimum insertion about 3 cm higher than what the current one does not creak at. I want to know whether it will really reduce the distance I have to extend forward. Yes seems to be the intuitive answer but I really want to know for sure because these are a big bother taking off and putting on.

Edit : The handlebars I mention are drops on a road bike.The horizontal portion is parallel to the ground


texts: Identification of non-standard frame feature and suitability of frame for mid-drive e-bike conversion

texts:
My question comes in two related parts:  firstly, what is the piece of folded, drilled metal projecting rearwards from the lower bracket in the photo above?

Secondly, does this piece of metal have any significant implications for the suitability of this bicycle to have a mid-drive e-bike conversion kit installed?

EDIT

This is a wider view of the bike.  In order to address matters brought up in current answers, I should point out that I am this machine's first and only owner and rider, and it has spent most of its existence gathering dust in storage.  It is around ten years old, and I doubt that I have ridden it more than around ten kilometers.  It was very cheap, less than $200 Australian brand new from Big W.

I was considering installing a Bafang BBS or similar mid-drive kit.


texts: What difference does the range of gear size matter?

texts:
I get the idea of ratios and the obvious that a smaller gear on the front and a larger one on the back will give you an easier end result but what difference does the range of a chainset or groupset make?

I guess a related question is, Why do higher end bikes have only two sprockets on the front while lower end ones have three? (apart from any weight implication)


texts: I'm getting a strange cracking noise out of my bottom bracket. It started after I tried to pedal harder on a higher gear. What might be causing the sound? The bike is new and can it be the bearing?


texts: What is the difference between a “single-speed bike” and a “fixed-gear” bike?

texts:
I would have thought that a single gear was the same as a fixed gear, but that does not seem the case.  What am I missing?

Can a fixed gear bike have more then one gear?


texts: When overhauling bottom bracket bearings, is it possible to replace loose bearings with cartridge bearings?

texts: I am fixing up an old schwinn continental from the early 70s and was wondering whether it was possible to put cartridge bearings in the bottom bracket


texts: What are the differences between a seatpost-mounted and frame-mounted rear rack

texts:
I am in the market for a rear rack. I noticed that there are two categories of rear racks:

Seatpost-mounted rear racks, such as this one:

And frame-mounted rear racks, such as this one:

I'm trying to decide between two of these two types of racks. I would like to know what are the pros and cons for each type of rack. I noticed that the frame-mounted rack is advertised to be able to support a heavier load. In that case, why would someone get the seatpost-mounted rack over the frame-mounted rack?


texts: When and how tight should you adjust your clipless pedals?

texts:
I'm new to clipless pedals. I got some Shimano ones, with Specialized MTB shoes. They are an SPD clipless pedal, and the shop adjusted them as loose as they go to unclip from them. My questions are:

How tight should I adjust them? I'm not unclipping unexpectedly from the pedals, and so far (crossing fingers) have not had any crashes due to the settings.
When would you want to change the tightness of the pedals? Based on terrain? Riding? etc? Do you ever really adjust them?


texts: How to tell if 700mm tires fit 29" rims?

texts: My MTB has 29" x 2.25" tires on it now.  I'm looking at these 700mm x 35mm tires to replace them.  Will they fit a 29" rim?


texts: What is the best way to determine the correct crank length for my height and more specifically my leg length?


texts: New Huffy rim and new tire/tubes but tire is coming off rim and tube is blowing

texts:
I bought a 26" Huffy bike for my wife recently. The front rim was bent and not repairable (at least not by me). Rather than return the bike I decided to go to Huffy's site and order a new rim under warranty.

After a couple of weeks back order the new rim was delivered this weekend. I put the new rim on her bike yesterday along with the previous tire and tube and inflated to the same pressure as usual which is 38psi, max is 40 on this tire.

Within less than an hour the tube blew out. This same tube and tire had previously been inflated with no problem. I saw the tire was off the rim and figured I screwed up the install so I pulled a fresh tube off my garage shelves and reinstalled everything being a little more methodical this time. Everything seemed fine and my wife took it for a test drive. Later that evening I heard a bang in the garage and sure enough the same thing had happened again.

Anything I might be missing here or should I just call Huffy for a whole new setup or maybe just return the bike, assuming that's still an option - I would need to check. I've never had this problem before so not clear on how common this is.


texts:
Trying to build a bike on a cyclocross frame. So the wheel will be 700c. Need hubs. Fork size is 100x15 with thru axle. Rear drops size 142mm x 12mm thru axle also. So it means I need any hubs which will fit these sizes? Because I know that these standards are mostly for mountain bikes, and know nothing about how they fit the 700c wheels.

Thinking of buying a pair of Hope Pro 4 or a pair of DT Swiss 350s MTB hub for rear and front.

Thank you very much!


texts: determining make model and year of a BMX frame

texts: is there a specific website where I can simply enter the bicycle serial number to determine the make model and year primarily BMX frames


texts: I bike everyday in Paris and I am looking for a mask with a particulates filter.


texts:
While looking for new tyres that would fit my bike from a design point of view, it turned out that none of my color wishes could be fulfilled. Most tyres on the market are black, with a handful of exceptions (some mentioned here)

There are headsets, clamps, brake levers, saddle posts etc. available in all colors, why not tyres?


texts: What kind of pump do I need for this valve?

texts: This is the valve I have on my bike, but my current pump does not work with it. What kind of pump do I need to buy that will work with it?


texts: Bottom bracket lockring keeps loosening up

texts:
The lockring on the bottom bracket keeps loosening up, it's now ~15-20km. What can I do to prevent it?

The steeper the hills I ride the quicker it comes undone - it's a single speed so it's clear and I guess expected that the higher the forces the quicker it will loosen up.

UPDATE: I have lockring tool which I use on my commute rides which is wrong size. The lockring was tightened by bike mechanic 2 weeks ago using a proper tool, but it came loose within 30km.

UPDATE 2:
When the lockring becomes loose it causes a click in the BB. If I push the left pedal it will click and then if push the right pedal it will click again. In other words, if I put one of the pedals up I can make the BB click if push/pull the crank towards/away from the seat tube.

UPDATE 3: After I removed the cranks and the locking, it turned out that the non-drive side BB cup is not tight in the BB thread. I really mean the cup, not the spindle. Even when the cup is fully screwed in (so the spindle turns freely but doesn't have any wobbles) I can move the cup up/down/left/right. It's a tiny movement, but it's observable and visible to a naked eye. It's as if the cup is of wrong side. The threads on the cup and inside the BB look ok, but I haven't cleaned them yet.

If I put locking on the removed cup it also isn't tight. It seems it fits, but there is tiny sideways movement.

I don't think this related but after removing the non-drive side cup I still cannot remove the spindle which I think is unusual.


texts: Stopping interference between LED lights and wireless cycling computer

texts:
My LED lights seem to be causing my wireless cycling computer to not pickup the signal (suggested by the manufacturer and verified through tests at home).

What strategies/options are there for reducing the interference outside of repositioning the computer (since I've tried all available positions)?


texts: What is randonneuring? How to get started?

texts:
Thanks to darkcanuck and this site, I have learned of randonneuring.

So, my basic questions are: What is randonneuring exactly? And, how does one get started?

I typically ride in 2 - 4 organized/supported Century rides each season; and additionally wind up on rides with friends in the 80 - 120 mile range. I think my riding may be hitting the category of randonneuring, but not in any organized fashion.

Randonneuring sounds like a lot of challenging fun. What are good resources (online and other) to get me started?


texts:
I'd like to know what is better in terms of maintenance and reliability in the long term.

I currently have a flip flop hub with a freewheel which I had to replace recently. For what I saw there were not many options in the market and they where quite expensive (white industries around 100€, halo clickster around 50€ and some other cheaper options which I don't trust anymore).

Depending on which one you buy, I've read they last around 2000-6000km (the cheap one I had was under 2000km...).

I'll replace my wheels in the future and probably I will have a custom build so I can choose the hubs.

The track hub for example, in shimano dura ace  is around half the price of the freehub. The hb900 costs around 240€ and a campagnolo super record pista or dura ace 7710 around 120€.

Is it worth it to buy the freehub or are there other things to take into account? Will the freehub fit in a bike that had a freewheel hub?


texts: Rim cement as a replacement for rubber cement

texts: Can I use aluminium rim cement for patching flat tire instead of using rubber cement?


texts: Bike chain "skipping", but only when not continuously pedaling

texts:
So I put together a bike a couple months ago. New chain, new chainrings (3 speeds), and new rear cassette (8 speeds). Used front and rear derailleurs from a bike co-op. The free wheel is old but seems to be working fine. All components are Shimano.

It had been plugging along just fine until recently. Now any time I stop pedaling, such as at a stop light or a bump, when I start again, the chain "skips" or "jumps". I'm not trying to change gears, it just feels like the chain is disengaging and then reengaging. It's infuriating and I think pretty dangerous.

When I'm pedaling continuously on a trail, no problem. When I'm standing up on my pedals going up a hill in 2 (front)/7 (rear), no problem. This info, combined with the fact that the entire drive train has to have less than 500 miles on it, and the fact that I went into another bike coop and the tech there measured my chain for wear and found that it wasn't worn makes me think this is not a worn drive train problem.

My guess is that the rear derailleur is properly keeping cable tension when I stop pedaling, which is somehow (?) causing my issue.

Any help is greatly appreciated, it's really my only form of transportation and it's getting to the point where it's unrideable.


texts:
In my experience, linear pull brakes (v-brakes) have more stopping power than other types of cantilever brakes (let the flames start ;). Modern road bikes always come fitted with dual pivot brakes. There isn't a massive difference in weight (Similarly priced XTR v-brakes @ 400g (F&R) VS Dura-Ace dual pivots @ 314g (F&R)) so I'm wondering if there is another reason why road bikes don't use linear pull brakes?

Is it to do with 'feel'?
Are my road
brakes rubbish, and most sets are
actually as powerful as v-brakes?
Obviously, current road levers
wouldn't work (well) with v-brakes..
Is it a pure legacy reason that
v-brakes aren't used?


texts: Compare optimal seated riding postions for different "fields" in mountain biking

texts:
I remember seeing an illustration, in some article, of different riding positions. The cross-country guy leans low and forward, while the enduro rider was close to standing straight up. Both were represented riding seated at level ground.

Is this true? Are different mountain bike types characterized by specific height of the handlebars, relative to the saddle, and specific length of the headtube + stem? What motivates such design decisions?


texts: Anyone ever use these? I'm getting these as stock on my next bike (700 x 25 on a 2012 Secteur Sport). I've been using Continental GP 4000s for years and love them. Will they be a step down or is it a good tire?


texts: Gear shift rubber cover liquified, post cure possible?

texts:
I recently got my bike out of storage and the rubber cover on the right gear shifter is liquified.
The rubber is basically a sticky oily paste now.
It's just the right gear shifter cover, even the rubber handlebar cover next to it is fine.

What kind of rubber are the gear shifter covers usually made of and can I post cure it with some chemical or heat?
Or do I need to exchange it?

Thank you for the help!


texts:
I used my brakes the other day and this happened (see photo). Is there any way to fix this?

I’m unable to use the brakes at all with this issue.


texts: ISO narrow-wide steel chainrings in higher tooth counts >30T

texts:
I know Surly, Sram, RaceFace and Wolf Tooth have offerings in small BCD and proprietary fixing systems (cinch & X-sync), but generally only come in one, MTB-range size.
Anyone know of a manufacturer with something more suitable to road/gravel drivetrains? i.e. 38+ teeth, 110/130BCD? Must be stainless steel!


texts: Good day. Need help regarding a bike I found. No idea what kind of bike it is, does it have value or not, and could I have it restored with its current condition? Any idea/information about this bike would be appreciated. Thank you.


texts: Crosswind effect on an aerodynamic front wheel vs a rear wheel

texts:
I am looking to purchase a new wheelset in the not too distant future and am debating between wheels that are 58mm and 85mm deep.

Or, and this is the part I'm curious about, a hybrid of the two. (58 front, 85 rear)

In a crosswind, a deep front wheel will, I believe, have a larger negative effect on stability than a deep rear wheel.

My question is regarding this. Since I'm going to have one aero wheelset I'd like them to be able to be used in as wide a range of conditions as possible, within reason of course.

Assuming a moderate crosswind situation, which would add more instability, a 58mm front wheel, or an 85mm rear wheel?


texts: I have heard about Chinese road group sets that imitates Shimano and SRAM products, but I have not being able to find where to buy them.


texts: I used to alpine cycle with my road bike. Now ( years later)  I am commuting and pulling a child in a burley tralier, earning awful neck pain. Does commute cycling require a different bicycle? If so, what sort? I am having a hard time also with braking in time for things. Could I convert mine to a touring bike? Very frustrating to want to bike, but knowing pain will come along with it. The road bike is a Bianchi steel frame carbon fork. Older, 2005 model Eros. Many thanks for your time.


texts: I am replacing a broken Shimano RD-2200, and trying to find the right part.  How do I determine compatability?  The largest sprocket is 26 tooth, and the cassette is 8 speed.  Will anything by Shimano for an 8 speed work?  Or do I need to get more specific?


texts: (racer) Standard vs compact crankset: Increased leverage for same gear ratios true?

texts:
I'm a road and mtb regional racer about to have a go at my first road endurance nationals very soon.

I'd like some educated scientifically validated answer on a matter that has been on my mind ever since I got a new bargain race bike that unfortunately came with a compact crankset. I actually went from 39/53 + 12/28 10speed to 34/50 + 11/28 11speed.

On paper I'm a lot better off with the new setup, since I'm using the exact same spacing on the cassette with the benefit of the 11t cog i didn't have, which, even though doubled with a compact gearing upfront, ends up giving me a lot more headroom in bottom and even a tad bit more top speed.

My coach has always insisted that even on same gearing ratios, when compared, a larger crank ring with a smaller cassette cog end up giving you higher leverage and ultimately better power transfer or whatever mechanical benefit. Last Saturday, trying out hard climbs on fresh legs with about same gear ratios on the 50 vs my 34, actually felt less efficient on the 34 for some reason, mind you same cadence, intensity, gradient.

What's your take on all this? If the math says gear ratios are same, are the actual ring and cog sizes irrelevant? Is it actually beneficial to switch to my standard crank due to increased leverage?

Thanks a lot, lads!


texts: What is the widest tire I can fit on my 32c wheels?

texts:
I have Shimano WH RS30 rims which are 700c x 32.  I would like to use a beefy 35c tire.  Is that too much width for my rims?

(My forks and brakes are wide enough to handle a 42c)

Thank you.


texts:
I would like to build my own fixed gear bike.
I want a steel frame, I know different quality of steel and I want to avoid HI-Ten.
I will be mostly for urban cycling (pavements) and I would take rougher paths from time to time. So I need wheels with at least 28mm large (so not a tight fork).
I live in Switzerland and looking on the Internet, I didn't find my frame.
I never bought on AliExpress, I am afraid I will have bad surprise (counterfeit) while I was looking for this frame :
French: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005001398900346.html
English: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001398900346.html
German: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001398900346.html
I mean what is strange is that they say the type of the frame is : Steel Cr-Mo 4130/525/725/Tube Reynolds Columbus.
What does it means to put at least 3 kind of steels and one of the best two manufacturers of frame in the world (Reynolds and Comlombus) ? (they made a mistake writing Columbus ... but I don't know if it's because of poor translation)   Is it serious ?


texts: Is there any reason I can't convert a 36/46 to a 36/52 chainring?

texts: My commuter bike is a converted cross bike (really just a cross bike with a rack on it).  It works great, but I occasionally wish I had a higher top end gear.  The crankset that came on it is a 36/46 cross gearing.  Is there any reason I can't just swap out the 46t chainring with a 52t?  It's all Ultegra 6800 stuff, and the cassette is an 11-32 cassette. I guess my biggest concern is that the chain might not be long enough if I ever cross-chain the 52t chainring and the 32t cog.


texts: Changing '75 international to clip in pedals and shoes

texts:
I have developed foot issues because my stiff insoles don't do me much good on the bike, especially if I stand to go up hills. So I think I need to switch to clip ins with good stiff shoes (Bont looked good online). What issues will I have with my Campy cranks on the Raleigh International  and Suntour on the Specialized Hybrid ? I am hoping for one pair of shoes that I could walk around at the grocery store in and ride on both bikes.

Mountain bike Look pedals? The Bont commuter shoes sounded like just what I wanted till I saw they were discontinued.


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?

Is it bad to listen to earphones while commuting?  I have a lot of people tell me I shouldn't, but I find when I'm biking without them I completely zone out other audio and I don't even notice other cars.

Is it really that bad to be listening to music while biking?  Am I putting myself at risk?

Thank you.


texts:
I have two Specialized Langster (one brand new 2013 model (54 cm) and the other a couple of years old unique London model (52 cm)) - both are single speed. Got sick of getting punctures on my daily commute so on Monday I got Durano Plus 700x25c tyres - the bike shop owner said go for 25c as the 23c is good but for daily commuting he would recommend 25c - he did acknowledge you will go slightly slower but not that you will really realise.

Well, he was wrong and I have realised! Anyway, the problem is the London model seems to be a lot slower then the the one - both are slower now but the London one lot more.

I am able to really pedal the heck out of the London one but it just does not seem to go too far I know I can pedal more but there is no need as it just does not cope to go further (hope I am making sense as it is hard to explain!). Could it be the chain is just not good enough on the London model then the other bike? Or something else - there is nothing much else I can think of as it just has one chain and no gears and stuff - except for the new tyres??

One point - the chain is painted (as it is a unique London model) so could it be that? I only bought the London model two weeks ago and am only now riding it around now for my daily commute.


texts: What can bald guys do to prevent helmet sunburns?

texts:
In the cooler months I normally wear a skullcap like this, which both keeps me warm and covers my scalp under my helmet.

Now that summer is around the corner that skullcap is way too hot.  I'd like a way to protect my scalp without completely overheating... do any of my fellow bald guys have any tips?

Edit: To clarify, yes, I am wearing a helmet.  Any solution would have to be something that would work under the helmet.


texts:
I am a 28-year-old female weighing 13 stone [approximately 180 lbs] (overweight, I know, as I am only 5'1"). I've recently bought a mountain bike to ride to and from work (about 2 miles each way), but I'm struggling to actually do the whole journey on the bike, as I have to get off and walk. I also want to be able to do this journey in 15 minutes. I am asthmatic, but since I started riding a week ago, I'm finding I'm not as out of breath already (good start).

I'm just wondering how to build up strength, stamina and speed, as I am currently struggling on the smallest of inclines.

Thank you for all your answers/comments.  They have all made me feel a bit better.  I am going to go to Halfords on Tuesday to check everything is right height etc. The gears I'm struggling with currently but sure I'll find the right ones soon... hoping eventually I can get to work in around 15 mins.  I have started making sure I drink water about 500mL (1 pint) about 30 mins before I ride and start stretching my legs.  I am determined to conquer the hills going to and from work setting myself goals as I go up them.


texts: I need to change the tyres (700 x 25)  of my single speed and I am looking for some good quality tyres, preferably blue. Do you have any suggestion on what could be a good match, or where to look? Regarding delivery costs: I live in northern Europe.


texts: Converting from 7-speed to 10-speed rear wheel

texts: My Bridgestone MB-5 currently has a 7-speed rear wheel. I'd like to convert it to a 10-speed. Is this possible? Is it practical?


texts:
I'm building a touring bike and was interesting in using STI shifters, just wondering if this setup will work.

Shimano Sora 3500 STI Triple 3x9 Speed Road Lever Set
with
Shimano Deore M590 Top Swing 9sp Front Mech
Shimano Deore M592 Shadow 9 Speed Rear Mech

Thank you :)


texts: B01S brake pads for Deore A-M615 brakes?

texts:
I bought replacement pads for my Deore A-M615 brakes. They installed just fine. But after cleaning the old pads, I saw that they are G01S, while the new ones are B01S.

G01S, the original:

B01S, which I bought by mistake:

The "incorrect" B01S have just fitted fine, and seem to do their work equally good. Should I now:

ride as usual?
buy the correct pads, ride carefully before that?
buy the correct pads, not ride with the wrong ones even to the LBS?


texts: Is riding on hilly road better than flats for long distance training?

texts: As you may know from my previous questions that I am training for a 150km ride. I want to know if riding on hilly road for 20km is better than riding on a flat road for 40km?


texts:
I'm searching for a way to clip into pedals despite my very pronated foot.

My right foot is 40-50 degrees turned out due to a torsioned shin. I pedal using my heels, which eliminates the differences in position and allows my pronated foot to turn out rather than bumping at the heel.

I'd like to modify a pair of shoes to mount SPD cleats at the heels, with the right one rotated. While midsole mounts has a small following, I've yet to find anyone mounting at the heel.

Any suggestions on a shoe likely to support this? As I look at shoes online, it's hard to tell if they have a flat heel to drill and a way to get the tee nuts on the other side, and whether they're likely to support the pull at the heel when pedaling.


texts: How can I DIY a smaller Anything Cage/Versacage, or a mini bottle cage

texts:
In my perpetual quest to carry ever more stuff without panniers, I'd like to fit a second bottle cage under the downtube, for small bottles (e.g. 200 ml of stove fuel).  There's space for something small, as my tourer is massive with relaxed geometry, but even an adjustable bottle cage like the Topeak modula EX won't quite fit (and won't  go thin enough for such a small bottle).  The shapes of the Salsa Anything Cage and Topeak Versacage are ideal, but they're bigger than standard bottle cages, not smaller.  The mounting hardware to use the versacage without threaded bosses also adds a lot of standoff, unlike cheap bottle cages that are designed to fit with cable ties or straps.

I took this photo for something else, but it illustrates the available space under the downtube and above the toolcase.

So, assuming there's nothing on the market, how can I make something, perhaps starting from a bottle cage or even a pump mount?  It needs to be pretty robust as it's hanging under the frame, and wants to carry a bottle around 50 mm in diameter (about 2/3 of a standard water bottle).


texts: Are modern clipless shoes and pedals that much better than toe clips and straps?

texts:
I've recently returned to cycling after a couple of decades, and I'm trying to get familiar with the current gear and components.

I still use toe clips and straps on the pedals on my 1990 Trek road bike.  But clips and straps are so far out of fashion that you wouldn't even know that they used to be common.  I can hardly find a mention of them anywhere.

Why have the modern pedals and and shoes so completely replaced the old-style clips and straps?  Are they really that big an improvement?


texts:
I have a new crankset (link) on the way as well as a chain guide/bash combo from OneUp. I am getting a 36T narrow-wide chainring also.

The bike I'm working on has a SRAM 3x9 drivetrain with 11-34 cassette. What else, if anything, do I need to convert it to 1x9 (other than putting the new crankset on and removing the unnecessary front der & shifter)?

Is it correct that Shimano 11sp cassettes fit on 8/9/10sp freehub, so I could in theory change it to a 10sp or 11sp cassette? I'm not planning on doing that ATM but just in case...


texts:
Several general questions have been asked regarding how long a bike or bike frame will "last", and the gist of answers seems to be that a bike can last quite a while if the replaceable components are replaced and the bike is reasonably well maintained.

But what about the inherent structural integrity of the frame itself? Is there such a thing as a risk of sudden frame failure or disintegration after some level of use? Do bikes ever fall apart, or develop a risk of breaking or fracturing along weak points? One of my bikes has more miles on it than the car I'm turning in — and I wonder about the integrity of the car!


texts: I recently bought this bike from a non bike person who didn't know anything about it. I've looked at thousands of pictures and hundreds of websites and I cannot find this frame. So, that means it is either rare, or junk. There are no markings anywhere. No serial number. There is a "1" and "B" stamped/cut on the drop outs. I don't know if this is some kind of logo. Pretty sure the frame is aluminum. Bike is very light. Most of the components are Gran Compe (crankset, seat, seat post, brakes, etc.) Any help would be appreciated. Hate it when I can't solve a mystery. Strange design without a seat tube. Three paralled tubes welded together forms the frame.


texts: What to do with the new parts on an old bike I want to dump?

texts:
Three years ago I bought a second hand bike, which I used for cycling on average 10 miles a day (mostly commuting). It turned out to have many problems, so over time I replaced many of the parts on it with new stuff: the saddle, seat post, back wheel, tires, crank and back sprocket are all new. Two weeks ago the frame snapped, and given all the problems I've had, I just bought a new bicycle altogether (yay!)

So what should I do with the old bike?!

I want to dump it, but I'm reluctant to throw out all the new gear on it. Unfortunately only the seat post and saddle are compatible with my new bike. I was thinking that maybe I could look around for a cheap frame and use it to make a decent back up bike - but presumably the chances of me finding a cheap frame that's compatible with the wheels and crank and brakes is close to 0?

I live in New York City, so storage space is also a factor...!


texts: How much of a difference does giving blood make to recreational cycling?

texts:
I intend to give blood at some point this week at my local community centre.

How much of a difference is this going to make to the effort required to keep up my usual pace? Or will the difference be negligible?
How long will any potential effects take to wear off?

I know professional cyclists have in the past (of course this is completely eradicated nowadays...) increased their blood volume to give them an advantage over the rest of the peloton. Can I infer that a lower amount of blood will have the opposite effect?

I commute ~16km most days and usually go out for a longer ride at the weekend so I'm fairly used to cycling intermediate distances.


texts: Is it best to put oil on the inner or outer of the chain?

texts:
When I oil my bike chain, I oil the inside and the outside like so:

     1. Oil here ▼
  ___________________
 /                   \
 | 2. And oil here ▼ |
 \___________________/

Cycle on 1/4 of the length of chain, and repeat 3 times, so that the top and bottom all the way around has had it applied.

Is this overkill? Do I need to oil both sides of the chain?


texts: Which states or countries have stop-sign-as-yield laws for bicyclists (Idaho stop law)?

texts:
In Idaho (PDF), bicyclists are allowed to treat stop signs as yields, and red lights as stop signs (essentially; see the actual law for details). This seems like a very reasonable approach, balancing the fact that bicycles are smaller, more maneuverable, and less dangerous for crossing intersections against the fact that you still do need to stop at red lights and be safe when going through intersections.

Are there any other states or countries that have similar laws?

  49-720. STOPPING — TURN AND STOP SIGNALS.

  A person operating a bicycle or human-powered vehicle approaching a stop sign shall slow down and, if required for safety, stop before entering the
  intersection. After slowing to a reasonable speed or stopping, the person shall yield the right-of-way to any vehicle in the intersection or approaching on
  another highway so closely as to constitute an immediate hazard during the time the person is moving across or within the intersection or junction of
  highways, except that a person after slowing to a reasonable speed and yielding the right-of-way if required, may cautiously make a turn or proceed through
  the intersection without stopping.
  A person operating a bicycle or human-powered vehicle approaching a steady red traffic control light shall stop before entering the intersection and shall
  yield to all other traffic. Once the person has yielded, he may proceed through the steady red light with caution. Provided however, that a person after slowing
  to a reasonable speed and yielding the right-of-way if required, may cautiously make a right-hand turn. A left-hand turn onto a one-way highway may be
  made on a red light after stopping and yielding to other traffic.


texts: Inflated tire partially slipped off rim, can I fix without deflating?

texts:
There is a ~3" portion of my back tire that is no longer within the rim walls on one side. It's an older bike but in fairly good condition. The tires had just been replaced by a professional and I put maybe 6 miles on the bike before noticing it. I don't think it occurred while biking since the wheel can hardly turn past the brake and I would have noticed the resistance.

My main question is can I fix this without deflating the tire (I don't have a pump yet so I'd be bike-less until I got one)? What caused this & how can I prevent this from happening again?


texts:
I've cut my first cable housing using this ParkTool page as a guide. The thing is, I think it's a bit too long. Can I safely shorten it or the length is good as it is now?

Update: 7.5cm less, is it better now?


texts: Sun protective clothing interfering with bike mirror

texts:
I have had a "third eye" type bike mirror on my helmet for years.  However, recently I have learned of some genetic predisposition to certain types of skin cancer which affect the skin on the face/head and have become more cautious about how I approach the sun.  As a result, I have taken to wearing a protective "sun drape" but I wound up having to modify it because even with my helmet and the drape, part of my face is still exposed to the sun at times.
Anyway, the consequence of this is that when my face is fully protected from the sun the protective drape sticks out a bit and I can no longer see the third-eye mirror.  I'm not okay with using sunscreen instead, so I have been experimenting with other ways of mounting the mirror, but have not been able to find any that work - for instance, mounting the mirror on the side of the helmet away from the sun results in my not being able to see the important part of the road due to my back being in the way, and all the mirrors I have tried that attach to the bike I can't see when I'm hunched over the bike for speed and in most need of a quick check of the traffic behind me.
One idea I had was perhaps a strip mirror under the top of my helmet's visor might work, but I haven't seen anything like that.

  from
https://www.coolibar.com/unisex-trailhead-hat-drape-upf-50.html


texts: How do I evaluate the quality of a road bike?

texts:
I am specifically looking at a Fuji Finest Womans road bike - 51cm.  I am not sure what year it is. The ad description says:

  Women's specific geometry, 51 cm
  Shimano Sora, Ritchey stem, Aheadset,
  pedals with toe cages.  Great shape,
  smooth and easy-riding bike.

The asking price is $350 (Canadian).

I am curious about the quality of Fuji road bikes. How do I evaluate the quality of this road bike -- or any road bike for that matter?


texts: "Lock" brakes so that they are always active

texts: I have mechanical disc-brakes on my mountain bike. I am wondering whether it is possible to have the brakes activated without me pressing the levers.


texts:
I want to clean my headset/head tube. I removed the top cap, the stem, the (only) spacer, and a conical thingie from the steerer.
Still, the fork (a RockShox Recon SL circa 2009) won't come out!
Suggestions?


texts: What is it called when you ride a bmx like a unicycle?

texts: I was looking around a bit on YouTube and found a video for a footjam decade... which is pretty cool, in my opinion. However, in this video at 2:44 he rides the bike like a unicycle, straddling the head tube with feet on the pedals... which is freaking cool. What would that even be called?


texts:
Just asking if it is possible.
My friend added gears, but won't it damage the look or my cycle?


texts: Looking for advice for my GFs Pelago Brooklyn, which has a coaster brake Shimano CB-E110 hub. When shifting gears, the chain hops and crunches. The chain also looks a bit saggy. I only have experience with maintaining single speed and fixed bikes, so I was wondering what can I do for it?


texts: What are the differences between gloves and track mitts? (other than the obvious lack of covered fingers)


texts:
So I bought this road bike for 40 bucks and I’m thinking of upgrading the drivetrain since it feels a little rough
I just have no idea how to, this is the bike: https://imgur.com/a/WECRvWB
And this is the group set I want to get : https://imgur.com/a/KigTINl