texts: Find Novatec hub model based on inscribed (serial) number

texts:
I bought a second-hand bike. My bike's rear hub has no sticker indicating what it is, but there is a number, namely T05100300014, written on it, maybe a serial number. Could I use this to find what model it is? Google yields nothing, but I am awaiting a reply from Novatec at the moment (since my bike model should have a hub from them).
Note: my front hub also has a number of the same format (starting with "T" and with the same number of digits, I think) and that does have a Novatec sticker.


texts: What are the good bicycles available in India

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I want to start cycling on weekend around 10 KM on road. I am not sure which bicycle would be best for me ? I do not want to invest much amount in it.

I am in India . Can anyone suggest a good bicycle which I should buy ? It should be on amazon.in


texts: Today I got my new YT Tues bike and I've noticed that front brake lever came off the piston and I have no idea how to get it in place if it is even possible? Is it defective or can I fix it? Rear brake works just fine...


texts: I have an old giant 9 speed, which I want to convert to an 11 speed, simpy to use on a smart trainer

texts: I've never done this before, so am wanting suggestions on what  parts I need to change. I have an 11 speed derailleur, but not sure what else I need to change, obviously not rear wheel or brakes, as it's going on smart trainer permanently.


texts: Is UK National Cycle Network Route 20 fully open?

texts: Is UK National Cycle Network Route 20 fully open and fully signed  all the way from Wandsworth (in London) to Brighton?


texts: What bottom bracket will fit the Ribble Endurance SLR?

texts: Will a Shimano Ultegra BBR60 bottom bracket fit the Ribble Endurance SLR frame? I cant seem to find any technical information on the frame anywhere?


texts: Removing freewheel MF-Z012 without tools

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I'm trying to just add some grease to an old MF-Z012.

some pages online says i can remove it just by spining the first gear agains the last one.(e.g. http://www.cyclebanter.com/showthread.php?s=e4a1c90962d5cdf765e2fd15d37c96cd&t=75231 )

i can easily fabricate some chain whips with an old chain and vise-grip and try it... but the question is: is this true? or will i just waste time?

the freewheel does have a connector for a TL-FW30... but I do not have said tool and am more concerned about time to get one than price.

So, did anyone ever removed/installed a MF-Z012 by just spinning the smallest sprocket?


texts:
As I get more and more used to my bike's aggressive geometry, I'd like to slowly remove the spacers. I have two right now and my LBS who did the fitting said you can remove them as you get more used to riding aggressively.

If I were to remove these spacers in the future, do you need to readjust any other parts of the bike to maintain a 'good fit'? Or will compensating elsewhere simply negate the effect the removed spacer will have (in terms of getting more aggressive/aero)?

Can I simply remove a spacer and be done with it? Or should I get a refit while removing a spacer?


texts: Will my rear wheel with an internally-geared hub shift forward when pedalling steep uphill?

texts:
(I'm not a bicycle mechanic. Please excuse the incorrect terminology.)

I would like to have an internal hub gear (Shimano Alfine 11) installed on my bicycle. My bicycle has a horizontal rearward-facing track fork end.

Situation 1: no chain tensioner

I was told that to keep the chain tense the rear wheel needs to be pull backwards and then the lock nuts tightened.

I am concerned that on a steep uphill the rear wheel will shift forward, e.g. if I have a bad puncture and I need to replace the tube, then I need to make sure to tighten the lock nuts to prevent the wheel shifting forwards.
Question: Is my concern valid or will the wheel never shift?

Assuming the chain is worn out and starts slipping and there is no new chain available. I could re-tense the chain by loosing the lock nuts and shifting the wheel back to tense the chain. Question: Is this correct?

Situation 2: with a chain tensioner

In this case, I could install the rear wheel right against the front of the fork end. The chain tensioner takes care of the tension. Question: Is this correct ?

Assume the chain is worn out and is slipping and there is no new chain. Question Can I adjust the chain tensioner to increase the tension on the chain, i.e. does the chain tensioner only "have one tension" or is it possible to adjust the tension of the chain tensioner?


texts: I've got a bike. There is a stuck nut on the axle, and when I try twisting it.. well.. the axle turns too (obviously.). I'm trying to get it off, but it won't come off. My grandfather has a vast arrange of tools in the garage, so I have a good chance of finding any tool I need to get this pest off. WD40 is also in there. If you can help me and tell me how to get it off, please do!


texts: Probs removing the Freehub from Mavic Ksyrium Pro UST

texts: Finally managed to remove end caps after reading helpful tips on this site... now cannot get the freehub off. Researched the manual... there do not appear to be any further retention devices, but its seems fixed. I'm worried about damaging the unit... any tips?


texts: Connect Trekking Bike Brakes to Road Bike Lever

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A family member will give me his old (high class) trekking bike. I like the bike a lot but would like to swap the steering bar for a road bike one, which I am used to and like a lot.

Is it possible to simply connect the Deore LX brakes to my 600 Tricolore road bike levers?
Is it alternatively possible to buy road bike brake/gear levers that can operate the trekking bike brakes and gears?

My question is similar to this one, but I am unsure if the answer applies. Plus, ultimately I'd like to replace the gear lever as well.


texts:
In theory, could a bicycle hub last forever if you kept overhauling it (and getting new spokes and rims and etc.)?

I'd like to know about all the hubs, but what really interests me is whether or not cassette hubs and front hubs can be overhauled over and over and last 'forever'.


texts:
I like to ride with a bike-specific GPS device mounted on my handlebar or stem, so I can look at it whenever I want. I use Garmin eTrex 30 with a mount like this:

The problem is, the GPS device falls off the mount under strong vibrations, and the mount wears out pretty quickly (a few days of heavy riding), which leads to the device falling off even easier.
Which options do I have? Should I replace my GPS device (I like it very much, so I prefer not to) or is there some more sturdy mount, or maybe one with shock absorption?


texts: Is it possible to reverse cable direction in Shimano M770 shifter?

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I tried to set up the perfect shifter + derailleur. For the last part it is better (for me) to have low-normal version, because reducing gears is essential for me (I bike mostly within city).

So I bought low-normal Shimano derailleur (Shimano-RD M770 SGS XT) and M770 shifter. To my surprise it is asymmetric shifter -- you are able to release gears by 4, and increase by 1 (I tuned M770 already, so I am able to increase gears by 2, just like with XTR).

So with current configuration I can more easily increase gears (by 4) than reduce them -- quite contrary what I wanted.

I can send back derailleur, and order a new one, with top-normal spring, but I would LOVE to improve M770 shifter even further by reversing the direction of cable, i.e. so the thumb level would pull the cable, and index level would release cable.

Such tweaking would result in dream machine (well, part of it).

The question is -- is such modification is possible at all (at home)? I would appreciate firm "no" or "yes" (+how to do it) answers. Thank you very much in advance.


texts: Is it imperative to shift to a higher gear when in a descent?

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I've noticed that, when I'm descending quickly on my road bike without pedaling, the pedals will sometimes spin too much freely, which seems like they have no impact whatsoever on the wheels.

Is it imperative to switch to a higher gear on the cassette in this case, or is this problem caused by failing mechanism in the bike (e.g. freehub)?


texts:
Often motorist do something that makes me wish they had stayed at home, but they also frequently do nice things too. Like slowing down to let me in to the lane, or making sure that they overtake with plenty of room etc...

Is there an unambiguous gesture that means "thank you"? I don't want to confuse people about my intentions (by using a gesture that could be interpreted as something else) but it would be nice to show appreciation.


texts:
This is my first time posting on this site so bear with me. I've got a 2009 Fuji Tahoe Comp 29er MTB with upgraded SRAM x.7 components and I'm having a couple issues. It is currently set up as a 1x9 and on gears 2-4 and sometimes 5 I'm having severe slippage when under pressure. Back in June I had pretty much the entire drivetrain replaced (front chain ring, bashguard, rear cassette, and chain) and had it tuned up for the summer. I took a pretty hard fall a month or so ago and bent my wheel a bit. I've since had the wheel re-trued and it's just fine and also had the derailleur hanger replaced because it was bent in the fall. My LBS stated that everything was fixed and I shouldn't have any more slippage. It rode fine on flat ground but as soon as I hit uphill terrain and rocks, I started slipping and it basically ruined my whole ride because the technical trails in my area require a lot of lower gears. Anyways, I was wondering if there was anything I could do to fix this. All my higher gears work just fine and the sprockets that are slipping don't show any wear (not rounded off at all or bent) so I doubt it's the cassette. The chain seems fine as well. The LBS I originally took it to said that I may need to replace the derailleur in the near future, which could very well be the issue, but seeing as though they couldn't fix the problem in the first place and that they don't really have a reputation for top notch work I take their opinion with a grain of salt. Please feel free to let me know if there's anything I can do, short of replacing the derailleur, to resolve this problem. I'm dying to get back on the saddle now that the weather has cooled. I'm also back in school and out of work again so the cheaper the better (can't really afford to spend $120 to replace the derailleur). Thanks for your time!

Little more about what's going on: When I have the bike off the ground and proceed to pedal, when the chain slips it seems to bounce back and forth between the rear cassette and the bottom cog of the derailleur if that makes sense. The gears shift just fine with no problems, it is only when under pressure like going uphill where slippage occurs. I take good care of my stuff and I degrease and re-lubricate the drivetrain after just about every ride so it shouldn't be gummed up too much. I want to avoid taking it back to the LBS unless I absolutely have to, so let me know if you have any suggestions for me or if you have any more in depth questions about the bike and whats going on. Any help whatsoever is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


texts: Will two spacers between the cassette and the hub effect the chain line?

texts:
So I have a set of custom wheels (White Industries T11 hubs) and when the cassette is correctly fastened to the hub with the single spacer provided the cassette cogs can be moved in the direction around the cassette (not laterally) ever so slightly. This causes an audible klank when the cogs are engaged and is generally not good. The solution from the wheel builder was to add an additional spacer between the hub and the cassette. Both spacers used were shipped with the White industry hub.

Using two spacers completely fixes the cassette slip issue but I'm wondering if it is effecting the chain line in some way? I have used the set of wheels on two different frames both with Ultegra group sets.

It could be me but there seems to be slightly more chain rub with the White Industry wheels than other wheels I have used like Mavics. Keep in mind that I am resetting both the front and rear derailers to accommodate the shift. Is it possible the spacers are just too wide? And are there different sizes for these spacers. Thanks in advance, any experience or advice would be appriciated.

I'm using a 10 speed setup, first bike is a Ridley X-fire (54) second bike is a Sworks Tarmac(58).


texts: Where to park a bike during a year for free ? (in the Netherlands?)

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We are two French in love with the Dutch people and culture. Each time we have the time we rush there. Rather than hitchhiking (as we used to), we plan to travel across the Netherlands by bike as it will be much easier to meet people. We plan to buy 2 cheap bikes somewhere there since renting them looks more expensive, and also it'll be less stressful and more relax (no fear to damage them, no renting delay, more freedom to go wherever and whenever we want to go... ).

As usual, we will hitchhike from France because we don't want to waste 15 days out of 25 just to go to the Netherlands or to come back (we live in French Brittany, Vannes)

As we can't take the bikes back we us (we will also come back by hitchhiking), we will leave them in the Netherlands. We are thinking of lock them somewhere, maybe in a small city for a year (or 6 months, we don't know yet) before the next trip...

So the question is the question is: where can we lock a bike for such a period of time?

We don't want to put them in a place where they could bother people (such as in front of train station). We heard about the 100€ options to secure them for a year but since our bike won't cost more than 50€ (hopefully even less!), we are looking for free and safe options/advices. Would it be a good idea to park them somewhere in the North in a small city ? Less risk of theft ? But what about the police, would they allow it?

Any advice concerning these bike parking issue would be warmly appreciated !

Thanks !


texts: Is there any way to convert a track bike to a geared bike? I have a track bike with only the rails for the wheel but I've moved out of the city and there are more hills where I am now living so would like to convert to gears if possible and rather than buy a new bike, save some cash.


texts: What is this spring between the fork and the frame?

texts:
Sometimes on a bike I see a short spring, most often covered in rubber, connecting the fork with the frame:

What is the purpose of it? The only thing that comes to mind is stabilising the fork so it does not wobble to the sides so much. Is that its purpose? Why do some bikes have it?


texts: takhion-esque track frame identification!

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I thinking on buying this very lightweight track frame that is very similar in looks to those beautiful takhion pursuit frames from the urss 80's. I was told that brazilian cycling federation bought four of those frames in the late 90's for competing at a Pan Am and that's it, no more relevant info. The guy who holds the frame believed for some mysterious idea that this was a colnago frame and to me it makes absolute no sense since i've never heard of italian frames with similar geometry. My guess is south american, but I don't believe the italian threaded bb would match.

It is a 26.8mm seatpost and i could not find anything stamped on the dropouts neither on the bottom bracket or fork. Any ideas?


texts: Front chainring issues + can I install Falcon Friction thumb shifters to an Shimano STX derailleur set?

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I'm interested in trying friction shifters, also to save space on my cockpit. I bought a Mongoose Hilltopper 1994 recently and I want to play with it a little.

A bike mechanic told me in order to shift to the large chainring I need to keep pressed the shifting button until the front derailleur manages to jump on the bigger chainring. I always try this and it rarely manages to shift into the bigger chainring.  Perhaps my front derailleur needs proper adjustment (which was made by the bike mechanic so IDK what's wrong).

So my final question is, would a friction mechanism be compatible with the "Hold the trigger pressed until the gear changes mechanic" the front gears have?


texts: why does my front suspension have no spring or air valve

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I am riding a old rally mtb the fork is a xc100 , I can find no mention of these online, and it has never a spring nor a air chamber to make the suspension work. it is recently began to stop working so I wanted to tune it. however I am lost as to how it works.
any ideas would be most useful.

many thanks

ewen


texts: Mystery grease source - Alfine 11, Gates Belt drive, Shimano bottom bracket

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I have a 2012 Spot Acme and it's been great, everything is still smooth and working well into its second winter. However I picked it up to bring it into the office a week ago and noticed grease all over my hands, just like a chain would do. Here's a picture.

It's like a heavy black graphite-looking grease, definitely oily and not just dirt. There are no signs of leakage from the Alfine SG-700 hub or the bottom bracket. (Hub oil is a much lighter product more like automatic transmission fluid and there is only 25cc of it.) If either the hub or the bracket had leaked all its lubricant I would expect at least some creaking or other noise but it's still all smooth and silent.

I haven't ridden in anything but normal wet weather. If I had gone through a big puddle of grease I would expect to find some on the frame, my clothes, experience disc brake issues - but everything else is clean.

Gates technical support says that the belt would not deteriorate so quickly and even if it did it would not release any residue, and that it can be removed and cleaned with no ill effects.

Any suggestions as to what I should check next? If this stuff came out of the bike then something needs some attention. If it didn't, how can it be confined to the belt and sprockets?

Update: It almost certainly is a leak from the Alfine 11 hub, Spot Bikes say it has been known to happen and there are a few search hits with people describing exactly this problem. The bike is in for service with a local shop now (under warranty), I'll update again with the outcome. Annoying to be without a bike...

Second Update: I'm picking up the bike tonight, after a cost-free fix under warranty. The hub was inspected by Shimano's representative and pronounced OK once the seal was replaced. The Gates drive components were decontaminated and everything is said to be fine now. If I experience any further leaks, shift issues or if exposure to Shimano's $$$$$ hub lubricant has had any negative effects on the drivetrain I'll continue the saga here.

Third Update: I've put a few hundred km on the bike after the fix and everything seems OK in terms of seal. I might be mistaken but it seems be slipping a bit more often when I put a lot of power on the pedals. I'm watching it and will start making some noise about a complete replacement from Shimano if it gets worse.

Fourth update (early April 2015): It's leaking again. Have asked the bike store to talk to Shimano about replacement :-( When it works it is a nice product but at this stage I would not recommend it to anyone - maybe if they give me a replacement and it works for 12 months with no leaking I might change my mind.

Fifth update (early June 2015): The hub is back from Shimano after being with them for approximately two months. The repair note, once it came back, says "replaced internals and seals". I don't know if that means my hub is now the equivalent of a current production Alfine 11 or if it has just had a new seal installed. Maybe it has just been patched up like it was the first time and it will start leaking again in 12 months of moderate use - or maybe it is now as good as current production Alfine 11 is claimed to be. In any case it has cost me a not-inexpensive wheel build + $20 more to ship it to Shimano, and I'm not that confident. Overall this has been a negative experience and I will be thinking carefully about whether I get another wheel built using this hub or just leave it on a shelf in the shed.

Sixth update (late July 2015): I built a new wheel with the hub. Left the wheel leaning against a wall for a couple of days until I had a chance to properly clean the Gates sprocket after the last leak. When I went to complete installation of the sprocket, shift lever etc. - I found it leaking again. Shimano can now replace this with a new one that doesn't leak. Or I give up, try something else, and do my best to help the rest of the world avoid the Alfine 11 hub.


texts:
Looking for chains at ebay, I see, that they have 106, 114, 116 links and so on.

I have a racing bike (2x7) and see, that chains are often announced as 6-7-8-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed. Since there are some prime numbers, I guess it is only back gear, which is taken into account?

I found one picture with a printing on the containment: "6-7-8 speed" and "116 Links". So am I right - would this thing be alright for me, or do I have to take more information into account?

Manufacture of the bike is Peugeot, of the mechanics: Shimano exage, an 80ies bike, and the chain lost attachment very abruptly after the cold winter. I'm not stick to Shimano, if I don't need to. Location Germany, if this is of importance.


texts: Eggbeaters cleats mounting to 3-hole shoe

texts: I have crank bros. Eggbeater 2 pedals. They came with two hole cleats.  I need three hole cleats in a triangle pattern to fit my bike shoes. Is there such a thing and where can I get them.


texts:
If I'm using a pair of "fully sealed tubeless rims" do I need to use sealant?

I'm seeing some sites state that it is unnecessary.

This question is really spawned by the statement that sealant corrodes rims.


texts: How to get over anger at inconsiderate drivers

texts:
Fortunately, I have very few strongly negative interactions with cars (most people generally seem to respect the way I ride), but those that do stick with me for a while.

The scenario is almost always the same. Rude driver approaches, does their rude thing (obscenities, "get off the road," unsafe passing, etc...), then speeds off to annoy the next bicyclist (or more than likely arrives at the next red light).

While this is generally a short interaction, I find that I just don't have a good rest of the ride. I find myself angry at the driver, thinking about what I could have done differently, and just generally being pissed off. Clearly I realize that it is possible I'm a jerk, but given the relative infrequency of these events I'm hoping that's not the case and I'm just riding defensively and this driver is having a bad day.

What can I do to get over (or mitigate) my anger at inconsiderate drivers?


texts:
Occasionally under load when taking off on the flat, I would get a crunch, then it runs smoothly.

After reading the other post I had tightened the wheel nuts but this has not fixed the issue. I have checked the yellow lines align also. It occurs in variety of gears. The bike was only 1 week old before it happened and it was next day after ride in rain.

I live in NZ and bought the bike in Australia, so taking back to vendor is not a option. For interests sake it's a focus planet belt drive.


texts: Has anyone ever successfully converted a recumbent bicycle or tricycle to hand-powered?  How?  What are the major obstacles to overcome?


texts: Cycled through pothole on carbon frame - damaged?

texts: Yesterday while out on my daily exercise (I live in London) I had to cycle through a pothole (bus too close behind so couldn't swerve or stop) that jolted the whole bike.  I then noticed a rattling sound from the bike on the rest of the ride, although it seemed to be handling normally (gears, steering, brakes). Nothing is obviously loose. Given that there aren't any open cycle shops near us, is there any way to check what is damaged on the bike with limited tools and experience?  Will it be safe to continue cycling on?  The bike is a Trek Domane SL 5 2019.


texts: Different vibrating tone on a belt drive with a Shimano Alfine hub

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I have recently bought a new Cube EXC Travel bicycle with a Gates carbon drive. This bicycle is equipped with a Shimano Alfie 8 speed internally geared hub. The bicycle is new and it seems that the supplier did properly check and adjust all parts of the bicycle before shipping it.
After a month of everyday riding (about 500km), I have noticed that I am sensing a different vibration while pedaling on the 4 gear (the middle gear). For some weird reason, my legs "vibrate" from the pedals on the bike in a different tone on the middle gear. Once I go up to the 5th gear, the vibrations turn smoother and that is why it is so noticeable to me. These vibrations are practically not felt when going down to the 3rd gear as well. The general feeling is that the belt "grinds" more when on the 4th gear than any other gear.
These vibrations do not seem to compromise my speed or acceleration when on the 4th gear. The yellow markings on the internal hub form an almost straight line while on the 4th gear. I suspected that belt tension might be the cause but I made sure that the belt is at about ~37Hz (going by the Gates application).
Should I worry about it? Is it common? Is it an indicator that something is wrong or that some parts should be inspected in a deeper manner by a professional? Or maybe it is just standard behavior? (unfortunately there aren't many belt experts in my area)
I believe I experienced minor skipping for maybe 3 times in 500km, I suspect this is not connected.


texts: Reading the specifications of a Merida Reacto 500 (2015) I noticed that at the bottom bracket is Attached, I only ever read about brackets threaded in the frame or press fit brackets.


texts: How do I know what gear combinations should work without chain rasp on front derailleur?

texts:
I tried adjusting the front derailleur on a 3x10 trekking bike. After fiddling around a long time, I concluded that is probably not possible to make all cogs work with all chainrings. How do I know what gear combination should work? Should you for example be able to use the fifth gear with all three chain rings without chain rasp? Should you also be able to switch between all chainrings in the fifth gear?

Currently, the three largest cogs are only working with the smallest chainring. If I adjust the front derailleur to allow shifting on the second chainring, I lose the ability to downshift from the third to the second chainring in higher gears (the chain rattles but does not come down).

I also experienced something similar when I crosschain on a 3x8 city bike. I have never had any issues with a 3x7.


texts:
I have a Nishiki Pueblo and I am looking to put disk brakes on it.

My problem is that I am not sure which disk brakes fit on my bike.

Thanks in advance.


texts: How to reassemble a Shimano Alivio Shifter

texts: I need a diagram on how to reassemble a Shimano Alivio Shifter.  I just can't seem to get it right. I even disassembled the other shifter to see how it all fits together and now I can't get it assembled again either!  A diagram or instruction manual will help!


texts: Am I able to fit 20x2.4 tires on my 20x2.175 Bmx rim? I dont know if im able to fit that type of tire beacause I want street tires


texts: Flat bar conversion - shifter is skipping a gear

texts:
I am in the middle of converting my bike with road handlebar to a flat bar.
The old road bar has a Shimano 105 brake/shifter and 105 derailleur.
Something like this:
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5055-021/105-ST-5700-L-STI-2x10-Speed-Lever-Set

The bike is a 10 speed.

I bought some Tiagra Road flat bar shifters: SL-4700-R 10s and SL-4703-L

The Left hand SL-4703-L works perfectly.
However, the SL-4700-R right side shifts up nicely for about 4 to 6 rings, and then skips a ring.  Playing with the tension just changes which ring gets skipped.

I take it I screwed up and the new shifter is not compatible with the derailleur / cassette.

Is my only option to return the shifters and try to find something else?

Thanks!

Edit: Found a video -


texts: Shimano 105 freehub FH-5800 - pawls not engaging, repair or replace?

texts:
After a thorough clean and (over) oiling with WD40, my Shimano 105 FH-5800 freehub stopped engaging. Sounds like a common fail: I had previously thought that more oil = better. Live and learn!

Bike is just over 10 years old but in good condition otherwise. I don't know if:

This can be dismantled, cleaned out, re-greased and put back
If the bit with the pawls in it can be replaced?
Or if the whole freehub should be replaced and wheel rebuilt around it?
Any other options?

I've looked at countless guides online to do with all three, but I just can't work out what applies to me  and my kit and what doesn't.

I'm also not sure what I'd attempt myself and what I'd need a shop for. I certainly wouldn't attempt (3), but would considering (1) and (2) with solid advice. I would need to buy the Shimano tool and a chain whip first though - until this happened I'd never heard of freehub, cassette, pawl or Sheldon Brown for that matter - I'm getting a good education here!

Here's the back wheel when going wrong:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8p3vnYAyxyndNtoz5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CYjnuzZFZSuhisDM6

(apologies for the poor backing track )

Update: https://photos.app.goo.gl/oBSpGwfBUpxfyxDJA (additional photo of hub model)

Happy to send more images, but as far as I'm aware, unless I get the tools I can't currently get the cassette off to see more.

Thanks all


texts: Hole inside fork's upper tube, air-spring side?

texts:
I've disassembled my Reba fork (FS-REBA-RL-A6) and found a hole in the inner wall of the top tube, air-spring side leg. Doesn't look perfectly round to me, even though it can be an effect of a bit of grease remaining there.

It's where my index finger is on the next pic, towards the bottom and a bit towards the front of the fork. Doesn't look aligned either, and I can't figure a reason for a hole being there...

My question is: is it a manufacturing defect??

I've opened the fork because it suddenly sounded like popping, lost some air (it immediately smelled like rubber) and sagged quite a bit after a while.

Afterwards when I got home, I've also noticed the big wiper seal between upper and lower tubes popped out (maybe because of the pressure of the air that escaped the chamber?).

Thought a seal was broken but to my eye all was good inside (except for the hole!). Also, I was expecting some oil on the lower legs but there was only drips (and some butter grease). It was also very difficult to separate lower legs from top, even after some not-so-gentle taps on the screws...

Considering using my warranty. Thanks in advance!


texts: Add/remove sprockets on cassette to customize gear ratios

texts:
I have a Shimano 105 10-speed cassette on my road bike, with sprockets 11-12-13-14-15-17-...-28 (I don't know by heart what comes between 17 and 28). I'd like to remove the 11, and put a 16 between the 15 and the 17 (because I dislike the gap between 15 and 17, and I don't use the 11 very much). I can find the sprocket: this one is for Ultegra, but I suppose it should work for my 105 too (http://www.rosebikes.nl/artikel/shimano-ultegra-cs-6600-10-speed-tandwiel-met-16-tanden/aid:119171).

Can I just take 11-15 off, put 16 on, then put 12-15 back on? Or is there something else I need to consider?

Alternatively I'm willing to buy another cassette instead, but I don't want to give up the 28. Are there compatible 10-speed cassettes available with 12-13-14-15-16-17-...-28 (or possibly even 29 or 30)?


texts: Which crankset standard will fit in my bottom bracket?

texts:
I have a bike with a press fit bottom bracket. Unfortunately, my existing crankset has too long of a spindle, and will not fit.

Measurements of note:

bottom bracket shell width: 62 mm.
outside bottom bracket width: 84 mm.
bottom bracket spindle hole diameter: 24 mm.

Based on these measurements, I believe that I want a BB86 standard bottom bracket (supposedly it has some room for compatibility, so I am hoping that the 84 mm won't be an issue). Is this correct?


texts:
I have an MTB that I have been riding in the city for many years. As such, slick tires suit me well and I have been using a set of 26x1.25 tires for the last 3-5 years but they are starting to show their age, especially after I got caught in the rain last week and the water cleaned off all the dirt and dust. I noticed a number of small punctures that looked like they were stretching out as well as what I can only describe as spider veins (though not cracked)

For some reason, 26" slick tires in widths less than 1.5 are harder and harder to find locally nowadays. I saw one tire listed online as 26x1.0 / 650x23. Are these size equivalent?


texts: Lightweight foldable shoes for road cycling

texts:
I want to be able to use SPD-SL cleats and still be able to access pubs/cafe's normally. I'm really thinking of something that could be taken on a 75km club run and with that kind of distance I think a bag would be a bit onerous to carry. Cleats on the local slate floors cause upset to the proprietor and are probably a slipping risk. I am not willing to use a different form of clipless pedal.

Possible solutions

Cleat covers

Foldable shoes

I have never tried either of these before.  Do other's have any experience of them?  Are there any other suggestions to consider?


texts:
This summer I have already bought two bike computers but both have failed to meet my expectations:

Computer #1

The Filzer had poor reviews but I thought I would give it a try anyways.  Should have listened to the reviews the computer stopped receiving data after about two weeks.  (Luckily Mec has a good return policy so I exchanged the computer).

Computer #2

Next I bought a computer from China.

The computer is wireless which is a nice perk (no wires snaking across your bike => more beautiful).  Unfortunately the computer was in poor shape upon arrival.  It seems like something was loose inside the computer.  The computer appeared to work fine but I never put it on my bike (the rattling would drive me crazy).  Because of the low price of ~$6 I actually ordered two computers.  Both had the same issue.  (Site).

Question

Are there any good quality bike computers for a reasonable price?  Here are my requirements:

Under $100
Provides Functions:

Speed
Ave. Speed
Distance
Time riding
Distance for the season
Time

Wireless (optional)

Bonus Functionality (would pay a little bit extra):

Heart beat monitor
Cadence (Pedal rotations)
GPS


texts: Crank Compatibility for my Orbea Hydro 2012

texts: I have received as a gift a set of SRAM bb30 cranks. I would like to know if they fit my 1012 Orbea Hydro and if can I use SRAM Alloy GXP Bottom Bracket to fit it all together.


texts: The shifter for the front derailleur is "soft" in my vintage bike

texts:
So I bought a used vintage bike. I just love the bike and it's awesome. However it came with one problem: gears problems. First of all I have very little experience with bike, especially gears (currently watching youtube videos to learn more).

The problem that I have in the bike is three folds:

1- The shifter for the front gear is soft, so there is absolutely no tension when you move it. So if you move it, nothing actually changes in the front gear at all. My question regarding this problem: could it be the shifter itself that is broken or could there be something else wrong? (i.e. like cable problem, or front gear problem itself). I'm trying to troubleshoot the problem.

2- I have never seen such shifters ever before, so if the switchers themselves are broken, are there still old school switchers like these? If so, do they have specific names so I can look them up online? Because when I search for "shifters", I only get the new popular ones!

3- The last problem has to do with the rear gears, the switcher doesn't switch to all speeds and I have no idea what's the problem.

Here are pics for my cool bike :D (so happy about it):


texts: SRAM replacement dub crankset, is this pre-greased?

texts:
I'm replacing the NX cranks on my bike with X01 cranks, all of the install videos I've seen show people greasing the cranks but these look like they're pre-greased. There's blue/green stuff on the spindle and brown inside the socket on the crank as per the pictures.
Is this grease and is this sufficient? Should remove it and replace it with this grease I have?
My old spindle didn't seem to have very much grease at all and it was black so difficult to compare.


texts:
So I've never changed a chainring before. But the first step is finding the right one.

I have a Cube Hyde SL 2012 . It describes the crankset as

Shimano Deore XT FC-M785 Hollowtech II 42x26T., 175mm, integrated BB

By which I assume the 42 refers to the number of teeth on the outer ring - which is the one I need to change.

The closest thing I can find is this (M780):

But a) it suggests it's a triple chainring, and b) in the Q&A on that site someone has asked

  "I'd like to swap out the 40t large ring on my Shimano XT M785 10
  Speed Double Chainset with this 42t ring, would that work?"

With the answer

  The chainrings for the M785 crankset have a specific design and
  unfortunately are not listed as having a compatible interchangeable
  option.

So.. err.. what now?


texts:
I ride an eBike in New York City.   About 80% of the roads I ride are relatively smooth and 20% pretty bumpy.  On my non suspension bike the 80% is great but the 20% is a bit painful.

I understand the cons of suspension (expensive, brittle, slows you down, heavy) but having some way to smooth out those bumpy roads would be very nice (on a new bike).

Are there certain types of suspension options that would minimize the cons while allowing you a break on the bumpy surfaces?

The biggest con I would like to avoid is the slow down of speed on smooth surfaces!


texts:
I've just picked up some lightly studded tyres - winters aren't too bad here but ice can be a problem.  The bike is a hybrid mainly used for commuting, with some early starts.  Most of my route is theoretically salted, but not all and not always.  I'm planning to mount them this weekend on the rims I've got, so this question is thinking ahead to when I put my normal tyres back on the bike. The bike in question is a hybrid set up with a not-easily-removable child seat, so must do duty all year round.

Does it make more sense to swap the tyres or the whole wheels?

I've thought of several reasons both ways.  In favour of swapping wheels:

Rims, cassettes etc. wear out anyway, so I'll have to replace them at some point (the rims have >5000 km on them).
I can put the summer wheels back on if I'm going for a long ride on a warm day. (I now have other bikes for this so it's not an advantage any more).
Over the course of a year it's less work to leave the tyres on the rims (3 season tyres are marathon plus so not the easiest to mount, but not the hardest either).

In favour of swapping the tyres on the rims:

Save a little storage space.
Defer some costs.

and the two big ones:

Will I have to align the derailleur and/or brakes when I switch wheels?
What effect will running a new cassette on a worn chain have? Alternatively: when do I need to swap the chain if I'm running 2 cassettes of different ages.

What experience do people have of the last 2 points in particular?  Is there anything I've missed?


texts: If I don't use a torque wrench, how do I tighten to the approximate torque? What can go wrong?

texts:
I don't think I can drop $50-$100 for a torque wrench right now. What parts of a bike are the most critical to get the torque just right? Is there a way to make sure the torque is ok without a torque wrench? I know what would happen if you don't tighten enough. Too tight is probably better than not tight enough!
Is there a way to make minor adjustments based on some sort of observation or feel?


texts: Identify bike manufacturer using the number 1857 and is made in England

texts:
I have an Abeni badged track bike but the frame appears quite old. I am trying to ID the manufacturer.   I purchased it from an estate and the family said it had been in storage for about 20 years. That was a couple of years ago so I was thinking it was possibly from the 1980’s.
The number on the frame is 1857. Can anyone one enlighten me?

Update:


texts: Tadpole Recumbent Bike Correct Fairing Position

texts: What is the correct fairing position for a tadpole recumbent trike?  I have a HP Gekko 26 with a Streamer fairing.  Should the fairing be as far forward or as close to my pedal range as possible?  Should the trailing end of the fairing be high (inline with my head) or low (inline with my chest)?


texts: Proper Weight input for a indoor power meter

texts: When setting up the power meter on an indoor Elite Digital Mag Trainer should I put in my weight plus the weight of my bike when I input the weight?


texts: How to adjust SR SunTour M3020 AND product manual

texts:
I just bought my daughter a GT Palomar 26" Mountain Bike - 2015
It has SR SunTour M3020 fork shocks.  My mountain bike is so old it doesn't have shocks so this is all new to me :)

To my mind, the shocks seem too "mushy".  I'm 160 lbs and she's only 80 so obviously, they should be adjusted differently for her, but still, she finds them mushy.  Can they be adjusted and how?  I have tried to find a product manual online for these shocks but with no luck.  I did find a recall notice for them, but no manual*

If anyone is familiar with these shocks, can they tell me if they are adjustable and how to adjust them?  Also, a link to a manual would be great.
The manual that came with the bike is very general and doesn't get into specific shocks.

Thanks,

Dave

*As far as I can tell, my serial number is not part of the recall.


texts:
I have new cycling shoes.
They fit fairly well -- I've worn them for an hour -- but I'd like them a bit wider at the toe (I have wide feet).
Can they be widened? They uppers are not made of leather. I think that when a shoe-shop widens leather shoes, they do that using some product which softens the leather, and which doesn't work with a synthetic upper.
I tried one shoe-shop, who told me they couldn't do it, because they only have the product for leather.
Can it be done at all? Does it need a special product (for synthetics), or perhaps some heat, or only patience? I realise that widening might not be as effective as it is with leather, but if it can be done at all then even a little might help.


texts: I am new to bikes and was wondering if there is a difference between inner tubes for a 27 x 1 1/4 bike and a 27 x 1 1/8 bike. My bike has 27 x 1 1/8 tires but I wanted to use 27 x 1 1/4 inner tubes since they are easier to find.


texts:
I'm curiously interested in buying a bamboo bike for use as a Sunday road bike, and I'm just wondering whether they're suitable:

Strength at high speed?  I live near Parbold, which has nice hill for climbing and of course speeding down.  So my question is whether the bike would hold together at 40mph+?
Durability in the wet?  The UK has some miserable weather. I accept that the bike would be like a suede jacket, and not something to be caught in the rain with!
Weight - found a quote of a 60cm road frame weighs just under 2.5 kilos.  I think that's substantially more than carbon or my titanium road bike frame.
Joints - Would you go for a bike frame with steel interlocking joints or bamboo throughout?

These are the two manufacturers I'm looking at:

Bamb EcoLogical Technology (my preferred choice)
BamBikes.com

As a note, this is for fun, I just want to be safe.  I fully acknowledge that I won't be winning races on this bike, but not being dropped from the peloton would be good!


texts: Adding disc brake to a bike without rear disc brake mounts

texts:
I'm seeking advice on how to install disc brakes on a bike that does not have rear disc brake mounts. The bike I have is the Trek 7.1 FX.

Does the Trek 7.1 FX have the mount for installing disc brakes?

Which disc brake option is better to go for, mechanical or hydraulic?

Which brands are reliable, or does Trek provides some custom kit?


texts: What else will need replaced when I replace my wheel set on my vintage KHS road bike?

texts:
I am needing to get a new wheelset for my vintage KHS road bike. I have been looking into it and to get my 6-speed cassette to work with the Shimano 501 wheels it looks like I will need to get a spacer. Is this true or do I have to upgrade the cassette as well? If the cassette gets upgraded, what other parts would need replaced to get the bike running again?

Thanks in advance!


texts: What Size Screw Holds the Up and Down Shifting Levers on Ultegra Shifter?

texts:
There's a screw on the back of my Ultegra (circa 2000) shifters that holds the down shifting (on the right side) inner lever, to the up shifting outer/longer lever. I've long struggled with it loosening, but last week it fell out during a bumpy ride.

I'm having trouble describing it, let alone finding a replacement screw. What size is that screw and what should I call it?


texts: Which replacement pulley wheels fit a Shimano RD-6400/6401?

texts:
I'm looking for replacement pulley wheels for my RD-6401. It needs to have 10 teeth and a thickness of about 7.2mm.
I do have a set of Shimano 10 teeth pulley wheels in front of me (Y56398030) which don't fit because they are about 9mm thick (plus they are of poor quality).
Are there still replacements parts available?


texts: Is deep v wheels safer then the standard fixie rims

texts: I'm thinking about getting a new fixie but wonder what size rims I should get. I've heard that deep v wheels are easier to handle then just the standard rim size.


texts: Learning to ride fixed gear: Clipless or not?

texts:
Which strategy is better for learning to ride fixed gear, if you're already comfortable with clipless pedals:

Flat pedals at first, clipless after you're comfortable with being unable to coast.
Learning to ride clipless from the start, probably with the tension turned way down.

Just got a fixed gear bike, which I plan to practice riding in a park for a while before using it as a commuter. I usually ride with clipless pedals, and I gather from questions on SE as well as other sources, that foot retention is quite important on a fixed gear as well. Thus, eventually, I would want to ride that way.


texts:
On my MTB I have Shimano M505 clipless pedals and one of the pedal bases has play. The screws that keep the front piece attached to the pedal base regularly loosen irrespective of how much I try to tighten them.
Any suggestions on how to fix the pedal?


texts: Can I get a bright rear light using AA batteries, or is there a compelling reason why nonreplaceable batteries are so widespread?

texts:
TL;DR: I like the convenience and the ecology of using AA/AAA batteries in a rear light. Yet the rear lights using AA batteries I see on the market have puny power. Does anyone build somewhat powerful (30+ lumens, say) rear lights that use AA batteries? I am quite happy if they are drained by flashing (at 30-50 lumens) after just 2-3 hours. I can carry spares. In any case my usual ride is two hours long.
A bit of context: In my jurisdiction reflectors are mandatory, but lights are optional. Since I ride mainly soon after sunrise or in the two hours before sunset, during the summer only, and recreationally only, I intended to skip headlights and rearlights altogether. I avoid main roads and manage to ride on trails, with the occasional stretch on side roads. I miscalculated routes recently and needed to ride just 300m on a road with some level of traffic. A car screeched to a stop behind me, presumably because the driver was distracted by their phone. I'm now revisiting the decision to not have lights, since flashing front and rear lights may increase the safety of my riding, on both trails and side/main roads. I prefer to use replaceable batteries (see below), yet I'm wondering if the much more powerful lights in nonreplaceable lights, especially rear lights, would reduce the chance that a distracted driver would miss seeing me. (The aforementioned 300m stretch was uphill, and I was struggling to keep up with anywhere remotely close to the speed of the cars on that road, 50-60km/h, and so I counted more like an obstacle at the edge of the pavement.)
An ongoing fad is to switch all consumer devices to custom-sized, non-serviceable, permanently attached Lithium-ion batteries. Yet if removable, rechargeable AA batteries had appeared on the market as a new invention after consumers were accustomed to built-in batteries, the replaceable batteries would have likely been deemed a great progress forward.

One can have an unlimited supply of readily charged batteries to fit in any one of several devices.
One can travel with a handful of batteries and never need to pack a charger, or need to be in the proximity of electricity.

To cite a non-cycling example, the Apple Wireless Keyboard, in which a pair of 1000mAh rechargeable batteries last me eight weeks of ten hours daily use, is more versatile than the Magic Keyboard, for the reasons just mentioned.
Hence with bike (front and rear) lights, I suspect that it's an advantage to seek lights with replaceable, standard-size batteries.
The abundance of custom-sized, non-removable, non-serviceable, Lithium-ion batteries in front and rear lights puzzle me. Is it just more lumens? If I intend to ride only during (the plentiful in summer) daylight hours, what is the advantage of non-removable batteries in lights?
P.S.1: It's of course a huge waste to use discardable—alkaline, ..—batteries. We're comparing here rechargeable fixed with rechargeable replaceable.)
P.S.2: (At the risk of venturing into preaching,) the ecological cost of each one of us buying headphones, lawn mowers, leaf and snow blowers, wireless keyboards, drills, screwdrivers, and cycling lamps with nonremovable batteries is enormous. The volume or weight lost in cycling components is not nearly as bad as that in larger equipment. From the point of view of the manufacturers, there could be one of many advantages. There we can only speculate. Hence this question asks the consumers of one particular product. In case you have studied this question and found an answer, what is the advantage of non-removable batteries (that may or may not be properly recycled at the end of their life)?


texts:
I have noticed there's some friction in my free hub on the TCR - when I pedal backwards slowly, I can get the rear wheel to roll backwards (while on the stand). This strikes me as a bad thing - means when I'm coasting on the bike, I'm losing more speed than I should be.

Is there anything I can do to fix this? Is this something I should take to my friendly LBS and have them take a look, or is it something I should be able to handle at home?


texts: Should a new rear shock be building oil in the shaft?

texts:
I've ridden my new bike (first full suspension I own) for about 150km now and I'm seeing some oil building over the O-ring in the shaft. It's a lot more oil than what you normally see on a front suspension, so I'm starting to worry about it, but it can be just my ignorance :p

Is this normal or should I send it back to the manufacturer? it's still on warranty.

There is no dripping while stored, so it's maybe only about wiping out the excess after every ride. Or the few first rides?

The shock is a RockShox Monarch RT


texts:
So this morning I'm riding to work on my shiny new tourer, when my trouser leg gets caught in the Gates belt drive. Not good!

I'd rather not go the leg-strap route if I can avoid it, which leads me to ask whether a chain guard or chainring guard exists that would fit over a belt, given that the belt is wider than a chain. The crank is a Shimano Tiagra, if that matters.


texts: Ultegra BR 6800's; Increase the reach to 53mm-54mm?

texts: Can Ultegra BR 6800's pad-reach be increased to say, 53-54mm by filing the arm slot longer with a round file? Is there enough aluminum to do this without getting too close to the end of the end of the slot?


texts: How accurate are the power numbers from a Tacx Flow?

texts:
How accurate are the power numbers (watts) from a Tacx Flow?

Multiple aspects :
Absolute number : can they be compared with numbers from other power meters ?
Relative : if ride two times at 200 W for one hour then did I do the same effort ?
During a ride: if I start at 200 W and after an hour am still riding at 200W then do I still do the same effort ?
Are the numbers still the same after using the same Tacx Flow a couple of years ?


texts: Do I need a chain breaker tool to install a new chain on my bicycle?

texts: Do I need a tool, or will the chain have the correct length? For example, my biggest cog in the rear is 34T and the biggest chainring at the front is 42T and the chain has 116 links. Is a chain with 116 links enough? What should someone consider about the length when buying a chain?


texts: I am new to bikes and I realized  the back tire valve is missing the top part of the valve , I inflated it but when I unscrew the pump it completely deflates. Can I buy that "screw" or I have to change the entire tube. How are they called ? Or where to buy them. If I add an adapter for for Schrader will solve the problem


texts: Cyclocross tyre patching problems, bulging inwards

texts:
I bought a new cyclocross bike, very good very handsome. 2 days ago I rode it on quite a rough road composed only from rocks. Two punctures (slow leaking ones, cause only realised after coming home 2 hours later, tire was a little quite deflated).

I bought a patching kit. Patched as usual. I used to have a mountain bike, so I think I patched it well. But this time, with the CX tires, I ended up with two annoying (and very uncomfortable to ride) dented inwards tires. If you try to rotate the tire, you see a single dent on each of the tire. So ... I think it must be coming from where I patched it.

What are your thoughts on this?

My thoughts are:

If you patch a narrow tire, don't glue the whole patch to the tire, glue only a small part, touching a puncture. Couple of millimeters in diameter. Cause if you do, you might end up with the tire tightened at the place of patching, and when inflated, it will have smaller diameter.
Well, first described pretty much everything.

Should I buy a new tire? (I think I will anyway, this bulge is punching my bike like hell with every revolution.)

Should I be careful next time? How?

And just in general, suggestions for patching small tires.


texts: Can I modify the gearing on a 2009 Jamis Aurora?

texts:
I have a stock 2009 Jamis Aurora.

I'm looking to modify my gear set-up to make climbing hills with large loads a little easier on my knees, as I constantly find myself wishing I had one or more low gears.  The specs say the crankset is an FSA Vero Forged 50/39/30 with a length of 175mm. The casette is a 9-speed SRAM Powerglide 950 (11-32). I read on a couple forums that some people had switched out their 30 tooth front sprocket for a 26 or 24, to help out with steep climbs and heavy loads. However, when I called a couple bike shops, they expressed concern that it wouldn't be possible and compatible with the front derailleur.

So I had a couple questions for bike experts since this is my first time really looking at gear systems -

1) Would changing from a 30T to 24 or 26T make a tangible difference on climbs?

2) How do I figure out whether the rest of the bike components will tolerate a 24 or 26t sprocket in the front?

3) Finally, any other solutions for this problem that one might try?

Thank you!

UPDATE 6/19

After incredibly helpful advice from folks in this thread, as well as consulting a number of LBS, I have successfully swapped out the 30 for a 26, without losing my STI levers and without any other problems. The secret lies in adding a 'chain watcher' to help guide the chain back onto the granny if it comes off. Some other adjustments to the front derailleur are also necessary. But with a competent bike shop, it's doable. I haven't climbed with a load yet (this weekend), but from use so far, it shifts smoothly into the granny (but you have to take care you're somewhere in the middle of the rear cassette when doing so), and shifting back up to the middle is also not an issue, though it takes a little longer than before and must be done delicately. With the granny, you shouldn't use the smallest 3 or 4 cogs in the back. Otherwise it works like a charm. Bike shop said it'd probably work just fine to switch the cassette to a 12-34 instead of 11-32 if I wanted lower gearing, too.


texts: Why the heck are cleated shoes called clipless?

texts: Clipless shoes are the ones with cleats and clips on the pedal that the cleat clips into.  So why in the world are the called clipless?


texts: Do pro riders use compact cranksets for hilly races? I'm trying to determine if switching to a compact double will mean I don't have the top end speed to be competitive in higher levels of racing (I'm not a pro racer) and unfortunatly I haven't been able to find information on the setup of top racers.


texts: Is it worth switching from regular "rim brakes" to the new disk brakes?

texts: I have an old Haro mountain bike I love. One feature request I have for a new bike is disk brakes. Is it possible to install disk brakes on an old bike? Is it worth it?


texts: guide to correctly assemble a Walmart bike

texts:
I bought a genesis max air from Walmart last fall used it a few times before the winter and two weeks ago brought it back out.  For the last two weeks me and the wife have been riding about 8 miles everyday and went and rode some trails last Sunday.  So far the bike has been alright but I think I would feel better if I reassembled it.  So I was seeing if someone knew of a guide or video on how to tear it down and put it back together or really any suggestions on it.

Problems I've already noticed is the front derailer won't shift into third it's like the cable is all the way tight in second and the disc on the front wheel is sitting way too tight in the brake.  I don't have any experience working on bikes but I own a construction Company and am a trained mechanic (I service all of my equipment) so I think I could figure it out with some help.


texts: Can I use Shimano 8 speed rear deraileur (Claris) with 6 speed SIS downtube shifter (for a 6 speed freewheel)?

texts:
So currently I have Shimano SIS downtube shifter (6 speed) with indexing, a 6 speed freewheel, and Tourney TX for the rear deraileur, they index properly.

If I want to swap the RD with Shimano Claris, will it still index properly?

Why? because I'm planning to upgrade the wheelset and shifter in the future to end up with full Claris, but I want to do it incrementally.


texts: Damaged (bent) fork dropout - what are my options?

texts:
I have an old Dunlop mountain bike - I'm not sure whether it's a steel or aluminium frame. (I have had the bike since I received it as a kid probably 20 years ago.)

For some time, I've had it stored on a horizontal wall-mounted hook in my garage. For some reason, the hook mounting came away from the wall, dropping the bike 4 feet onto the concrete floor. The front wheel was not attached, so the forks hit the ground and resulted in the damage and bending of the left-side dropout you see in the photos.

What options do I have to rectify this damage? I think the blades are still in alignment, so can I bend the dropout back straight and be safe? Or does it really require replacement of the fork for integrity? As stated, the bike is old and honestly in need of a little TLC, but to date has been perfectly serviceable. However, if this would take any amount of money to repair (in conjunction with other possible servicing), it might be more economical to replace the whole bike outright?


texts: Warranty on lock damaged during attempted theft

texts:
Someone attempted to steal my girlfriend's bike tonight and they damaged the lock.

Do you guys know if we can use the warranty to get it exchanged? The lock has a 2 year warranty and I'm planning to take it to Decathlon to check what they can do but in the meanwhile is there anything we could do?


texts: Does anybody use an under the saddle bag for touring? (Not Pannier Bags)

texts:
I am looking for a bag as an addition to my backpack to use for cycling. A pannier isn't a choice I want to make, because I believe they balance the weight badly, and that there is some risk of broken spokes on the rear wheel when using a pannier.

I started looking for other options and finally found this one:

Bag details:
Volume: 7 liters (1.85 US gal)
Weight: 250 g. (8.8 oz)
Material: “Titan”
Material density: 1680D
Basic colors: black or gray
Additional colors: orange, blue, yellow, red, green, light green, lime color.
Price: $59


texts: Where can I find free online spinning or turbo classes? Ideally videos, but just audio or even an annotated playlist would do.


texts:
Looking at the provided image, is the cone sufficiently damaged that it need replacing?

Thanks!


texts:
I bought recently a second hand bike for my daily rides, and it seemed in good shape. I rode it for more than a month without any problems, but recently had issues with it and had to get it fixed (mostly about a twisted rear wheel)

Out from the shop everything was fine until this morning, when I heard a "clack" coming from the back wheel, and suddenly felt friction on it
Upon inspection, it seems like the wheel is "wiggling" by like 1cm. Both screws on the side are well tightened and do not move.
The axle is not moving in the rear dropouts.

What could cause a problem like this ?

(I'm fairly new to this, so if it is a common issue please let me know as well)

EDIT: The problem seems to be a broken axle, I'll close after checking the bike again.

EDIT 2 (SOLUTION) : Upon inspection (sorry, couldn't find the time earlier), it's definitely the axle. I looked carefully, and the ball-bearing seems busted, with some balls out of it. I guess I found the problem, thanks for all the answers


texts: Shifter cable broke down: misuse, lack of maintenance, shifter or regular occurrence?

texts:
My rear shifter cable just snapped yesterday. It broke down without any real warnings that I can recall. It neatly broke right at the head, that remained inside the shifter (a Shimano one).

If I recall correctly, it already broke last year but as I don't do much distance I wonder if this is normal. I had the cable changed at a local shop, and I must say I don't know which cable they put in, but it seemed quite cheap.

I isolated a few possible causes:

I shift too often/too many gears at once. As I ride the bike in a city I tend to quickly shift down when approaching a red light, and back up when it turns green. Should I instead remain in an upper gear and use more strength to get going ? Or maybe just shift the front gear once ?
I don't really put any maintenance effort in the shifter, should I maybe grease it from time to time? Especially since the bike is parked under a shed, but not in a closed garage.
Maybe the shifter itself is damaged, I bought this bike from second hand, it has visibly suffered a few falls, but the external damage is minimal.

Or is this a perfectly normal occurrence ?


texts: Is there anything concerning about buying a half-price "test helmet" from my local bike shop?

texts:
I just bought a Lazer O2 helmet and am loving it, but I got it half price from my local bike shop because it's a "test helmet". This means that people who want to test ride their bikes use these helmets, but the person I talked to mentioned that this helmet was not used very often. It is white and has the words "test test test..." printed over a top portion of the helmet- it does not look like a sticker. I am wondering if anyone has had experience with these types of test helmets and if there is anything I need to be concerned about. It doesn't seem like the helmet is any different from the regular O2 helmet, other than the print on the top.

Thank you!


texts:
I'm installing a Shimano 1x12 setup and following the instructions. When measuring the chain it says to put the chain around the largest sprocket and largest chainring, measure to the zero point, and add 5 links + the quick link (for a hardtail).

Does this mean the chain is not meant to be run through the pulleys when measuring the chain length?

Here are the instructions I'm following - https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-MARD001-02-ENG.pdf


texts:
The Simplex SX410 rear derailleur on my bike was dirty, so I got it off to clean it.

Yet, now I can't quite seem to get it on again in a correct way.

Specifically, I can't get the spring to be wound up correctly (the derailleur hangs quite loose).

Is there anyone here who has got the same derailleur and actually knows how to put it on correctly?


texts:
During the summer, I like to go for rides on trails without a shirt. Is this safe?

Also, related: is it rude to other people on the trail not to wear a shirt?


texts: Switching brakes from mechanical to hydraulics. Disk rotor question

texts: Can I use the disk rotor from the current mechanical brake when I switch to hydraulic?


texts: How important is it to clean your drivetrain?

texts:
For the first time in my life I took the time to properly clean the drivetrain of a bike. How proper it was might be debatable, but for the first time I saw that the gears are not actually black.

I've owned bikes since I was a kid, when I grew out of one my parents bought me another one. I never regularly commuted by bike, but at times I was cycling quite a lot. I never though of cleaning my drivetrain and I never noticed any problems with it. I do remember lubricating it, but I'm pretty sure we didn't clean it before and we certainly didn't degrease it.

After I started cycling as my main mode of transportation, I also started reading and watching videos about bike maintenance and cycling in general. Some people seem to point out the importance of a clean drivetrain whenever they get a chance, whereas others don't seem too bothered. Cleaning your drivetrain is probably one of the cheapest things you can do to improve your bike's efficiency, so in a racing situation, I don't see why you wouldn't, but for normal commuting it doesn't seem that obvious.

For most people, the difference in efficiency isn't important. They are more interested in spending as little time and money as possible on maintaining their bike. Not cleaning your drivetrain will definitely save you time, but will it also save you money?

I understand that there are a lot of variables to consider here, but the main one is how much faster your chain and sprockets will wear out. Things like price of components, cleaning products, and time spent are also important, but much easier to research and estimate. I know quite a few commuters that never clean their drivetrains, for some, even keeping good tyre pressure is too much of a chore, and they are riding the same bike, with the same drivetrain, year after year.

On more expensive bikes with more expensive drivetrains, it's obviously more important, because the components are more expensive to replace, but is there a point where your drivetrain is so cheap to replace that you might as well not bother with the maintenance or just do the bare minimum? Like, could you get away with just lubricating the chain, without cleaning it?

When you google the subject, you find results that say that your drivetrain will last much longer if you keep it clean and lubricated, but I haven't seen anyone quantifying it. Much longer could mean anything. Is it 10%, 20% 50%, 100%, 200% or 1000% longer? Also, how much longer will your components last if you clean your drivetrain once a week, compared to once a month, or once a year?

I don't mind you sharing your opinions and personal preferences, but please do back them up with empirical data and maths. I'd like to see some proof that my efforts are worthwhile, beyond the fact that I like the feeling of riding with a clean drivetrain. Ultimately, I would like to be able to make an informed decision about how much effort I spend on bike maintenance.


texts: How do I use the trim function correctly on Shimano shifters

texts:
I have Shimano SL-4700 Tiagra (flat handle) Double shifters. However the front shifter has 4 positions in this order:

High

High trimmed

Low trimmed

Low

As can be seen in the image below.

However, I can't make sense of how this is meant to work because there is no way to move between the untrimmed settings. For example, if I want to jump to the small cog from the big cog (from H to L), I would expect to simply pull the top lever with my finger, but in fact it just goes down to the Low Trimmed so I have to do a second pull.

Furthermore, one of the trims has little effect anyway, and I find trim useless anyway as I never cross chain. I'm wondering if Shimano intends you to only use 3 of the settings (i.e. (1) H/HT + L, or (2) H + LT/L) by judicious setting of the limit screws, but I can't find any info about this. My old 8 speed Claris had only one trim, which I could bypass when changing. Not being able to go from high to low with one input seems weird, and I can't imagine Shimano would design the system like this.

Finally, when adjusting the cable tension and limit screws is there any special technique to deal with the trim.


texts: Do tubed tires fit all rims, or is there anything I should watch out for?

texts:
My bicycle is about 25 years old and for the past decade has been sitting out on my balcony (dry, but outside temperature, which around here means from -15°C to +40°C or so). Lately I've been thinking about reviving it. Once I take it out for a spin I'll know what else I need to fix, but for now the obvious thing is the tires, which don't hold air at all anymore.

I wrote down the size numbers I found on them - 26x2.125 - but I don't know if they are tubed or tubeless. I suspect they are tubed, but I won't be able to tell until I dig the thing out. And it would be nice if I had the replacements ready by then.

So, my question - If I go into my LBS and buy the first tubed tires that I see with matching numbers on them - what's the risk they won't fit?


texts: How should I adjust fenders/mudguards that catch on the tires?

texts:
I've just received my brand new "urban" bicycle, one that comes with pre-mounted, full length aluminium fenders/mudguards.

However, on the front wheel there is no clearing at the back end of the fenders, and the fender catch on the tire while rolling, and the bicycle is not usable until that it adjusted.

I'm addressing this problem with those I've bought it from, but that is a online shop outside of the country I live in, so I can't just take it back.
[UPDATE: The shop will cover costs (up to a limit) at a local repair shop to fix it, hurrah!]

The fender is in its highest position, so it cannot be moved any higher above the wheel. The fender is aluminium, which is a hard material, but very difficult to bend.

What is your advice to me? How should I go about to get proper clearance between the fenders and the tire?

Here is a pic I found on the web of the bike, hopefully giving some overview of the front wheel and fenders:

I do not have that many good ideas, but here are my thoughts:

bending the fenders - but I am afraid that I might break them. Also that  might not give me enough clearance
bending the bracket that attaches to the frame. That is even thicker aluminium.
putting it into a local repair shop
buy a new set of tires that just have a smaller circumference

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!


texts: Difference between Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette and Shimano HG50 8-Speed Cassette

texts:
Can anyone tell me the difference between Shimano HG51 and HG50 8-Speed Cassettes?

I can't find any information online about this so was hoping someone might be able to help me.

I am looking to replace the HG50 8-Speed Cassettes on my mountain bike but searching online there don't seem to be many about and they are more expensive than the HG51 which seem to be in higher supply as well. So I'm thinking of buying the HG51 to make some savings but not sure if its compatible, I'm thinking it might need a different chain to the HG50 or something?


texts: Benefits of newer racer bikes over older ones?

texts:
10 Years ago, when I was 14, I got my first road bike. It costed around 1000 € (~1350$), and I have been using it every year. I have cycled at least 1.000 km every season.

Now, I have started to ask myself: should I buy a new road bike?

The only carbon my current bike has is the carbon fork. But beside that, you can see the bike below.

My question is:

Comparing an average ~1000 € road bike from approximately 10 years ago, to a 1000-1500 € road bike today, what kind of differences would there be? What kind of technology has developed during this time, that leads to an improvement on the bikes?

Also, after 10 years of use, will there be some wear of the bike that you can feel if you buy a new bike?

Pictures of my bike:


texts: Inside of my full suspension bike pivots is cracked!

texts: Is this normal? I just noticed it when I was cleaning my bike after a long day downhill mtb. Are those screws? Thanks for any replies.


texts: Rear sprocket clicks or points of engagement

texts: I'm a dad learning about BMX racing and I want to know what the difference is between a sprocket which the bike shop says as 90 odd clicks, then starts talking about points of engagement. Does the amount of clicks have anything to do with the points of engagement or they totally separate meanings ?


texts:
Problem

My chainring is rubbing on the right, rear chainstay when I attempted to install my crankset.

Frame: Trek 520 Disc (54 cm)
Crankset: Shimano 105 FC-R7000 (52/36, 170mm)
Bottom Bracket: Shimano Ultegra BBr60 (68mm English)

I have built up a few bikes now but hadn't yet encountered this issue. I was thinking a touring frame would accommodate road cranks, but I guess I was wrong. Trek doesn't provide really any documentation on this frame besides the geometry measurements given on the link above.

Potential Workarounds

Spacers between BB and frame. Based on other forums and Shimano's "Dealer's Manual," this does not seem safe or even plausible. If I add spacers, the spindle will be too short and the inner cover will not sit snugly as it's designed to.
Buy smaller chainrings. I may upload a picture if needed, because the rubbing is on both the large (52t) and small (36t) chainrings. I wouldn't even know what size to buy or how to measure to ensure it wouldn't rub.
Replace crankset and bottom bracket with long spindle and smaller crankset (Octalink, square taper whatever). I'd prefer not to do this, because for some reason I decided to throw the packaging away and now I can't return it.

Questions

What kind of compatibility between cranks, BB, and frames do I need to be aware of to prevent this?
What might be the most efficient/cheapest workaround?
Is there something fundamental I am missing that should come with a bottom bracket?


texts: Are there any non-Shimano Hollowtech II compatible cranksets?

texts:
My power meter is Hollowtech II and I need to replace the crankset. So I’m looking at Shimano cranksets. Were there ever, or are there now, any Hollowtech II compatible cranksets made by any other manufacturer so I can broaden my search?

Edit: My power meter is a left arm XTR M980 and I have it on a Claris crankset. I didn’t include this in the initial question because Stages says this can’t be done. But it’s done and works and I’ve put at least a thousand miles on it.

But the thing I’m looking for specifically is a 165mm hollowtech ii crankset with 130mm bcd. Once I find it I’ll sort out the q-factor. But I’m starting to think that it’s time to get a new power meter.


texts: Scott Mountain bike. Problem with pedaling

texts: Last 2 runs out my bike I have as suffered from what I can only describe as the pedal free wheeling ie pressure put on pedal does not drive the bike, but after a couple of turns it then drive the bike forward. New cassette and chain installed by bike shop 2 years ago, only used once a week but in a fairly steep inclined countryside on short outings ie mountains. advice appreciated.


texts:
Today I noticed that there's a left-right play at the bottom bracket of my bike. You can see a video below. On the video, it looks like I am moving it with force, but I am not: it slides with ease, even if pushed only with two fingers.
Questions:

Is this normal? I assume not.
If not, can you point me to instructions on fixing it?

I happen to have a box of tools borrowed for the weekend, so it's the perfect time to try to fix it.

This photo shows the drive side:


texts: I'm in the process of getting a road bike. I already have a SUV with interior space large enough to carry a road bike. Worst case, I might have to remove the front tire and place it horizontally. Are there any problems in carrying a bike inside of an SUV by placing the bike horizontally?


texts: Converting a mountain bike to a urban commuter

texts:
While cleaning up our storage room I saw my dad's old bike collecting dust on a corner (he used to bike a lot before) so I asked him if I can have it and he said yes.

So for my question can I transform this bike into a commuter or am I better-off selling it and buying a new commuter bike? Though I really like to keep this one for some sentimental reasons rather than to sell it.

My budget is also limited, still finishing my college degree. I'll be using this going to my university and back, though I live in the city our roads/bicycle lanes here in Manila, Philippines are terrible.


texts: I would like to upgrade my wheelset to something newer. Specifically I was thinking about Mavic Aksium (although it remains to be seen what becomes of the current issues with the company). I have an old 80s frame and the dropout spacing is 126mm. I've heard that one can simply cut 2mm from each end of the axle and re-dish the wheel to have it fit the frame. Is this true, and would I be able to usey current drivetrain. It's set up as indexed downtube shifters for 6 speeds. Suntour groupset if it matters. I also saw a couple options of building a wheel from the hub. Velo Orange makes a 126mm hub and there is a complete wheel available from Harris cycles. I don't know to much about either of those options as far as weight, reliability, strength etc... Which route do you recommend? Thanks as always!


texts:
One of my tires (the front) was replaced recently, and I notice that it picks up grit (i.e. tiny, sand-sized debris) much more easily than the cheap stock tire (still on the rear) that came with the bike.  This happens both when the road is wet as well on roads that have been recently resurfaced.  (In the latter case even though the road is dry, I still seem to get bits of asphalt along with occasional black gunk which makes the sticking worse.)

I have been told that grit sticking to the tire won't cause a flat, and if I don't scrape (which I always try to do under these conditions, although this is really annoying) I find the grit generally spins off the wheel eventually, but nevertheless it leaves me with an uneasy feeling.

When it is time to replace my rear tire, I would like to get a tire that doesn't have this problem.   However, I don't see how to tell by looking at a tire whether or not it will have this problem.  I do notice that my new tire does seem a bit shinier than the old one, but I don't know that this would be a reliable indicator.  Is there some foolproof way to avoid such a tire?


texts:
Must I swap my SG-X chainrings with SG-X replacements or can I use anything with the same BCD?

My current Deore LX FC-M560 has 26-36-46 rings and I was thinking of replacing them with TA rings. However, I've read I must use SG-X and rings that come as a matched set due to the pickup being matched to the rings. Is this correct?

Anyone used non SG-X rings and had issues?


texts: Do I need to replace my chain ring and cassette? Images attached

texts: I know I should replace them if they "look like shark teeth", but I don't know what exactly what shark teeth look like. I know they don't exactly look new, but do they need to be replaced with my chain?


texts: Is it worth buying a second hand classic road bike for commuting?

texts:
I am looking for a substitute for my commuting bike. It is a cheap second hand general store bike. It do the job but just don't worth keep maintaining. But at same time I have to keep my bike outside for 10 hours a day in place where several bikes where already stolen (attached with cheap bike locks but still a fact). So I am afraid of leaving a decent bike there.

I checked second hand bikes pages and looks like there is a lot classic second hand old road bikes for sale really cheap and from big brands.

But I am not sure how much work a bike from 90s need and what I should check if I am buying one or even if it is a good idea.


texts: Does a brand-new bike bought online need a service before riding it?

texts:
I bought a brand-new road bike from a website.

The bike was preassembled and delivered in a big box.

The only things I had do were:
 - remove the styrofoam wrappings
 - screw on the pedals
 - loosen/reposition/tighten the handle bar (when the bike was delivered, the handle-bar was rotated and hooked under the top-tube so it was more compact for shipping)
 - adjust the height of the saddle

I have ridden the bike.  The tyres were already inflated.  The gear shifting works fine.  The brakes work.  The wheels spin fine.

But I noticed a (very) slight rattling noise (as if from the chain).

I took my bike to a local bike shop.  The man there told me the bike needs a service and it would cost £50.  He claimed it would make the bike "safe" to ride, and if I had bought the bike from his shop (a physical shop instead of a website), it would be "put together properly".

The cost of £50 was a little more than what I expected.  This is a brand-new bike, after all.

So my question is: should I get this brand-new bike serviced before I ride it?

Or are there some simple things I can do myself?  I can of course tighten everything with an allen key.  I can also lubricate the chain
and sprockets (or do I need to that?  I read somewhere that brand-new bikes all have been lubricated in the factory before they're sold.)

What else must I check (either myself or by a bike shop)?

Is it a not a good idea to start riding the bike without getting it serviced first?

Thank you for your input.


texts:
Long story why but I need to replace a front derailleur on my MTB.

Problem I have is I got the bike with the front derailleur missing so I am not sure what I need to replace exactly.

The path of the cable that goes down to the derailleur seems to go under the bike so I am guessing it needs to be a bottom pull.

Bike has 6 gears at the back that are working from a old Shimano SIS thumb trigger and 3 at the front.

Is this a simple fix or am I better of taking it to my local bike shop?

Thanks


texts: Are all rear DI2 shifters / derailleurs / internal gear hubs interchangeable?

texts:
I'm specifically talking about rear shifters....
Can I mix and match any of Shimano's DI2 shifters with rear derailleurs and internal geared hubs?
Shimano makes several DI2 shifters

integrated shifters for drop bars (e.g. ST-R9170, and ST-R785)
thumb shifters for flat bars (e.g. SW-M8050 and SW-M9050)
standalone buttons (e.g. SW-R600 and SW-S705)

They also make several DI2 rear derailleurs and internal geared hubs

rear derailleurs (e.g. RD-R9150 and RD-M9050-SGS)
internal geared hubs (e.g. SG-S7051-8 and SG-S7051-11)

Are all of these combinations completely compatible?
For example, can I run ST-R9170 (Dura Ace 11spd "road" integrated shifter) with SG-S7051-8 (Alfine 8sp internal geared hub)?


texts: Buy Time-Trial bIke or convert road bike

texts: I have started doing triathlons but don't want to invest in a Time-Trial bike until later. What are the problems with converting a road bike to a Time-Trial bike?


texts: What cleaner and oil should I use on my bike chain

texts: Hope everyone is well. I need to clean and oil my chain as its getting a little clunky when I’m changing gears. I have no idea what I should be cleaning it with and then what I should oil with. Any help would be great. It’s a road bike that is used every day no matter the weather.


texts: Should I eat breakfast before or after morning ride?

texts:
I am planning to do some (1-2 hours) base training rides in the morning before work. Should I eat something before the ride?

From my knowledge, there should be enough glycogen in muscles to power me. Are there any other considerations? What if I increased load to strength and interval training?


texts:
I have CSW MA 1.9 wheel on my cylcocross bike.
I already replaced few spokes in the rear wheel,
I plan to do a long trek in the coming spring with front and rear pannier (and my weight) and I want to get the strongest spokes that will fit to this specific model, How can I find out which spokes of DT Swiss would be eligible with my wheel?


texts: Is it worth rebuilding a wheel myself to save money?

texts:
The bearings and hubs on my bike have worn out and need replacing. The local bike shop charges $120 to have the wheel rebuilt with a new hub not including the part cost. I am considering doing this myself to save the money. I have never rebuilt a wheel before but I have done other maintenance on my bike and watched some videos on wheel rebuilding.

After considering buying the tools needed and the risk of breaking any parts, is it worth building a wheel for the first time just to save money?

I have done other repairs like chain replacements and brake pad replacements. I don't mind spending a weekend messing with it and I have other bikes I can use in the meantime.


texts: Switching from a quill stem to an stem adapter?

texts:
I have a bike I've owned for 15 years. The bike came with a quill stem, but now that I'm riding it more and more I want to buy a stem adapter.

I'd like to raise the handle bar (presumably so I can be in the drops more). Length is another factor. I'm on the fence about length right now. Anything so that I can get the right fit to the bike.
and if possible lose some weight on the bike at the same time.

What are the major things I should look out for when shifting to a stem adapter? Is it worth the expense?

I'm not looking to buy a new bike if I can avoid it. Thanks.


texts: Why is my upper headset bearing now pressed into the cup?

texts:
This is on my mountain bike.
After returning from a ride a month or two ago, I noticed my threadless headset had developed some play. Ever since then, I've had to retighten it occasionally, maybe every three weeks or so? When it loosened again yesterday, I decided to disassemble and clean up the whole thing. I have a tapered zero stack (ZS) headset, where recessed cups are pressed into the frame and then cartridge bearings are slid in (it's supposed to be a slip fit, not an interference fit). As expected, the lower headset bearing fell right out. However, the upper bearing was firmly stuck; I ended up having to use penetrating fluid, heat, and a hammer to get it out. When I went to reassemble, the same thing happened: lower bearing slipped right in, while the upper bearing refused to enter the cup by itself. I ended up having to crank down the top cap hard in order to forcefully press fit the bearing in.
Prior to this, my headset had come apart properly every time.

I'm guessing my inability to get a good preload was due to the bearing not being free to move around.
What do you think caused this? How shall I fix it? My thought is to install a new upper cup.
Could my headtube be damaged? A new frame is going to be expensive!


texts: If you remove rear coaster brake shoes will it affect the rear gear?

texts: If I remove the coaster brake shoes to disable the brake, will it make the gear loose or malfunction?


texts: Why do some road bikes cost more than motorbikes? Are they grossly overpriced?

texts:
I have seen quite some carbon fiber bikes that cost upwards of $4000. Why do these bikes cost so much when one can get a very good motorbike for $3000?

A motorbike comes equipped with several technologically advanced systems like IC engines, electrical lighting systems, electronic fuel injection, exhaust systems etc, which require considerably more R&D to build than any bike, IMO.

What then, justifies the exorbitant price of these road bikes?


texts: How do I fix my front wheel that’s hitting my brakes?

texts:
I’m totally new to bike maintenance and I know next to nothing about it. I was on a bike ride the other day and noticed it was abnormally difficult to ride. I got off and saw that the front wheel was not spinning freely and was rubbing against the brakes.

I watched a video that said my quick release could be the problem, but I don’t think that’s it. I think it has something to do with the brakes because they are slightly tilted and their attachment to the handlebars.

If anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!


texts: Where do I get this part for my v brake?

texts: I lost small plastic "collar" part on the front v brake which goes around the spring and onto the post. Does anybody know where I can get another one?


texts: Do more expensive bib shorts make a difference when sat on a turbo trainer for hours on end?

texts: Several times during the year I occasionally have to work night shifts (mostly during winter). This can make longer training sessions difficult as the shifts which allow this type of training ride (+2 hours) that are not days off finish at 1:00am. Going out training at this time in the morning can be fun but I more often than not hit the rollers (deer, drunks and potholes). I would like to get in longer rides this coming winter but am finding sitting on rollers for more than one hour and a half painful. Would a 'top of the range' pair of bib shorts designed for long distance (assos s7) riding help ease the pain?


texts: Is it okay to buy a cycle from a new brand?

texts:
I'm from India and I was looking to buy a bicycle for some really long commutes and fitness rides. I'd mostly be doing paved roads with the occasional gravel/dirt. Some reading told me that I should be looking for a hybrid. So, taking my budget into consideration, I've rounded up two.

Triad X3: https://www.choosemybicycle.com/en/bicycles/triad-x3
Montra Downtown: https://www.choosemybicycle.com/en/bicycles/montra-downtown-2019

I guess the Montra is superior here but I didn't really like the sporty graphics and its more expensive than the others. The differences are the dual disk brakes, the Shimano front gears. How important are these? I love the Triad but it seems like they are a new player in the game and I couldn't even find a single review for the X3 online. I was wondering if its okay to go ahead and buy it cause it seems like all that Triad makes is the fork, frame and the handlebars. Most of the other parts are same for the Montra and the Triad. Could someone please guide me as to what to consider and whether I should go for the Montra?

I'm a noob at buying a cycle. Is it okay to buy from a new brand?


texts: Is a Surly front rack compatible with tubus mount for eyeless forks?

texts:
I am looking at the Surly front rack and was wondering if it's compatible with this Tubus mount.

If it's not I'll have to go for the Tara but I was keen on having a platform on my front rack. Any decent recommendations ?


texts: What kind of bike cleat is this with an arrowhead like logo?


texts: I just wanted to ask how much fork travel does this bike have and is it worthy of buying??


texts:
After an extremely muddy and wet MTB race (riding in puddles covering the brake rotors) I need to do a full bike overhaul.
The only thing I don't know is what lube to use after degreasing the internals of the shimano freehub.

I already have:

Shimano dry and wet lube, and other bike chain lubes
various greases including shimano grease and multipurpose grease
multipurpose vaseline spray
various car engine and gearbox oils
silicone sprays

I know there are some freehub greases available but my LBSs don't have them and I can't wait for online orders to arrive.

Personally I'd use either gearbox oil or vaseline spray, but I'd like a confirmation from someone who has already (successfully) used one of the above lubing products.

Thanks!


texts: How do I match motor and battery leads on a generic e-bike conversion kit?

texts:
This is for a "Generic Add-on Motorize Bike 48v 1000w 26 Inch Front Wheel Electric Bicycle Motor Conversion Kit."

How do I find connectors to the motor and battery that are compatible before I buy them for this bike? I am not talking about voltage or wattage. I just want the connectors to fit without splicing.


texts:
Despite the movement to disc brakes in these days (even in the road cycling world), many still use rim brakes. Heck, even I still see rim brakes on our fellow MTB riders here at my place.

What I'm wondering is, why hasn't the industry produced rims with a replaceable braking surface? Especially with roadies drooling over deep-section carbon rims (which would be a waste if they get dissolved with every descent), I guess they could've made it for those who can't afford replacement rims.

Have they been already made? I've searched for them online but nothing's popped up so hit me up if there are any made.


texts: How to properly lace spokes in rim with offset holes

texts:
When i make 3-cross pattern in regular rim with aligned spoke holes i put first green spoke in first hole to the left of air valve (in order to have no cross around air valve) then moving counter clockwise.

For first time i am lacing rim with offset spoke holes and i cannot figure it out.

I assume its incorrect to lace as on photo labeled "Version 1"?

If i use "Version 2" then i get crossing over air valve.


texts: Is there a title that refers to the person who selects the athletes who will join the national team?

texts: Is there a title that refers to the person who selects the athletes who will integrate the national team (for instance, in the Olympic Games)? In football(soccer), there is a Selector (Sélectionneur in French) that will create the national team. What is the equivalent in bicycle racing?


texts: How can I determine the model year of my GT Talera bike? The serial number starts out as CM17F5


texts: Replacement Brifters for a shimano 105 2x10

texts:
I have a 2009 Specialized Allez Sport C2.  It came with shimano 105 components all around.  the left hand (front) shifter recently broke, and will no longer hold a position.  I can reach down and grasp the shifter cable and pull it, and the derailleur will move, so it is definitely the shifter.  As i understand it, this is a common problem for that vintage of shimano 105's.  I'm trying to figure out how to replace the brifters with compatible components, so I won't have to replace the whole groupset.

new 105 components are extremely expensive, and are set up for an 11 speed rear.  What are my options to just replace the brifters?


texts:
I have 180cm and the recommended size for me is 58cm or so, which i already have, a classic Peugeot racing bike. Works relatively ok but i found that i ride it better when i'm leaning forward and keep my hands on the lower side of the handlebars. And now comes the problem, i'm thin and i need more power than i have to ride this bike fast and long. However, the only bike i found to buy in my country and also to like it, is a 54cm with the reynolds 531 frame but i can't test it as it's not in my city (i do plan to test other bikes of 54 if i can find but for now i didn't).

So my question is, is there any reason i should not buy it? From the way i see things it shouldn't be any problem if i can pull the sit high enough. The handlebars are already a little lower which should be good. If i look to professional riders they also seem to have a smaller bike comparing to their body size, but this Peugeot is like controlling me.

Thanks.


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I have a overmountain bike (Cannondale Trigger Lefty 27.5) with 140mm travel but I was wondering whether I can make a downhill bike out of it because I really want to ride downhill.

The shock I have in the rear suspension is a Fox DYAD 2 and I'm not sure if I can replace it with other shocks.


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At the recommendation of my local bike megastore, I bought Endura Luminate overshoes. Sadly, they are letting water in through the front as they are not a particularly good comparable shape with the shoes.

Anyone running these shoes have luck with a particular overshoes?

Thanks!


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A town near my home has a (moderately hilly) 50-mile bike ride in the summer every year. Last year on the ride, someone told me I should have been drinking significantly more water the day before to "pre-hydrate", as my body was expending more water due to exertion and heat than I could recover by drinking.

Is this true? Should I drink more water the day before a tough ride?

(For reference: this is the route)


texts: Drivetrain wear -- questions on chain elongation and skipping

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Pitch (i.e. the distance between two links/two cogs) is a major issue in drivetrain wear, which explains why waiting too long to replace a chain may lead to premature cassette replacement.

This being said, three questions:

1) What is the maximum chain elongation tolerated by a new cassette? 1.5%? 3%? Can you explain in some amount of detail? (intuitively I would think that the answer involves taking into account the difference in sprockets' radius at the bottom and near the top of a cog -- as chain pitch increases, it rides higher and higher on the cogs, up to the point where it is no longer gripped by the cog).

2) What is the maximum chain elongation at which a chain will skip on sprockets that have not been changed during the life of the chain? (intuitively I would think that the answer would be the same as above, or a tad lower - worn sprockets have deformed cogs, but the same principles apply).

3) Large sprockets last longer than smaller ones. Why? (intuitively I would think that wear is a function of the number of revolutions -- or distance/speed)


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Recently I went to a local bike shop to get a bike fitting advice. After taking body measurements, I was given a frame size recommendation. According to that, seat tube size, top tube size and stem length are 500mm, 520mm and 45mm respectively. Since the stem length of 45mm is unrealistic, I was suggested a bike that have 500mm top tube and 65mm stem length so that the total length remains the same. My question is

(1)What factors determine stem length ?

(2)Can shorter top tube compensate longer stem length without any harm ?