texts:
I'm considering swapping the inner ring on my SLX double chainset (M665) from 22T to 28T.  I noticed that the newer M675 has a 40/28 option, so I figured that the 28T chainring from this set-up would work well on my slightly older chainset.

However, the Shimano schematic for the M675 chainset suggests that the chainrings aren't backwards compatible with M665.  But I can't see how a flat inside ring with no pick-up points machined into it wouldn't be compatible, providing the bolt patterns match up (which they do, I think).

Have I missed something?


texts: Rebound doesn't work on a Rock Shox Recon Air

texts:
On my Trek Fuel Ex6 I have a Rock Shox Recon Air fork with rebound valve. The valve has a 2,5mm allen key for adjustment, but it seems broken. The Trek Suspension Setup Guide tells me to set the rebound to 8 clicks out, however if I turn the screw it does not click any more. Two months ago when I turned it it did click.

Any option to fix this problem?

UPDATE
The problem was in the screw. It was damaged. It wasn't griped. So the only solution was to carry it to a specialized bike store


texts: Patched inner tube helped by pressure against tire?

texts:
When I patch a tube, does it need to be in a tire to "remain fixed"?

I mean: I understand an empty fixed tube will remain fixed if I keep it folded in a box...

But how about with air inside? does the patch need the pressure against the tire to remain steady?

I have pretty much never patched a tube,... so not really confident about the repair yet...
Is it a good idea to ensure the quality of the repair by inflating the fixed tube and leaving it out there for a few days and hope it keeps its pressure?


texts: Changing wheel size when adding ebike kit to tricycle

texts:
I have a 20" wheel trike I plan to motorize. Can I add a 24" or 26" Hub front wheel motor and can I mix the front and rear tire sizes?

What are the consequences for stability and cornering?

I am new to e-biking and would greatly appreciate any guidance.


texts: Why do rear pannier racks have a raised "nose"?

texts:
I am tempted to saw off the raised "nose" on my unbranded 2nd hand pannier rack because it's forcing me to lift the child seat substantially, which obviously has implications on stability. But I feel there must be a reason so many racks have this raised nose thing. I had a look at this article, and it hints towards stability/structural integrity, but I cannot see how the nose would help (I'm in engineering but not a structural engineer). My only other thought is that it's an added measure to stop items sliding forward, but it feels like there's something else I'm missing. Does anybody know what the nose is for? Has anyone cut it off and how did that go?

NB I purposely avoided using "the F word" ("opposite to rear") to describe where on the rack the nose is - this is meant to avoid this cropping up in searches related to f***t panniers.


texts: Bearing failure and wheel offset on Chicco Red Bullet

texts:
Our 4yo is not yet fully comfortable on her next bike, so she's been riding her Chicco Red Bullet to school - until the bearing packed up on her back wheel today (has she been doing stunts or what?). I'm really impressed it's the bearing that gave and none of the plastic parts, because the bearing might actually be the easiest to repair. We might just try and turn this into an opportunity to encourage her to switch to the new bike for good, but let's get to the actual questions:

Can I use this 7-ball bearing as replacement for the damaged 6-ball bearing? The caliper gauge is in a cupboard in the girls' bedroom, so I can't get to it before tomorrow night now, but I took some rough dims:

Outside diameter (=internal diameter of socket in grey plastic plate) 20 mm
Cone rolling surface diameter range 11 to 14 mm
Bearing width 5 to 6 mm - but I doubt this matters as there is plenty of room for adjustment.
nuts are 13 mm (must be m8 axle then)
So the dims generally match and the difference seems to be only in the number of balls. Is there a reason why the bearing in the link would not be a suitable replacement?

Is there an issue related to the bearing failure that's causing the wheel to be offset?

Please see the photos below, clearly it's not all in the best of conditions, but I guess I didn't appreciate even balance bikes need proper care.

The damaged bearing is on the rider's RHS (highlighted in the photo). I can't remember if it's always been the case that the wheel is off-centre and there is a lot of axle visible on rider's RHS side but none on rider's LHS. I doubt the cones could "travel" gradually (one tightens, the other loosens) in usage without a substantial change to how tight the bearing is. And I can't imagine the bearing failed because it was overtightened: if it was overtightened, I would expect the plastic "plate" to crack. I think the bearing failed due to rider weight (would it be called radial load?). NB I loosened the cap/end nuts before taking this photo but not any of the remaining nuts.

Overview of wheel construction

Overview of bearing construction:

Damaged bearing cage (by the way, it's interesting it's called a cage - my impression is that a much more appropriate name would be bearing crown or nest - these are the terms I googled first). I also find it strange how the six "wings" on the damaged side have different shapes and I wonder how much that has to do with the load (they all look even and equal on the good side).

I know it's a lot of photos but I don't want to put a new bearing on, only to find that a stronger new bearing causes the failure of a part which is harder to replace!


texts: Contradiction! Which back posture is correct for road biking?

texts:
It might be a basic question but I have searched and find no same question.

The question is...

There seems to be contradiction about the back posture for road biking.

Some people suggest arch-backed is correct, but the other people say no no it's not.

Which one is more correct?

[Arch-backed is correct]

Source: https://cyclistzone.com/what-is-the-main-reason-behind-road-bike-neck-pain/

[Arch-backed is not correct]

Source: http://www.ilovebicycling.com/how-to-fix-back-pain-cycling/


texts:
How do you tell when it's time to replace a cassette?
Are there any specific wear patterns on the teeth to watch for or symptoms specific to a worn-out cassette?


texts:
I have a 1 x 11 drivetrain setup on my mountain bike.  This is stock from the factory, it wasn't a conversion.  When I'm in the low gear climbing, there is a lot of chain/derailleur noise. It gets more noticeable when the drive is under more tension. Being in the low gear, the chain angle is fairly minimal, so I am really perplexed. The sound almost mimics when the chain rubs against a front derailleur when the chain is at a drastic angle rubbing against the side.

I'm afraid I am wearing out my drive train too quickly because something is not adjusted correctly.  My old 2 x 10 was virtually silent.

Addition, when going downhill and pedaling, the chain was slipping teeth quite often.

Does anyone have any ideas?

UPDATE:

After replacing the bottom bracket and spending the rest of the season fighting the noise, I have decided it's coming from the SRAM X style teeth on the front chain ring.  When the drive train is squeaky clean the noise is minimal. However after a ride or two the noise starts to come back.  It's only there when the drive train is under heavy load.  It sounds awful, like my chain and teeth are grinding together.  I can only assume it's the X teeth, anyone else confirm this on their 1 X 11?


texts:
I got a mid-80's Puch in great condition, and I replaced the original front wheel (steel) with a newer, aluminium one. But after the switch I have noticed that it doesn't brake as well as before. What could be the problem? Do the brake pads need some time to "break in" i.e. to align with the rim surface better?

Just to note, it's the old style caliper brake, the pads can just be moved up-down and I aligned them well with the new rim.


texts: Chain overshoots cog when shifting from low to high gears

texts:
Hi when shifting from low to high gears my chain is overshooting the cog and jumping into the next one. I tried turning the low limit screw outward to move the derailer in towards the low gears but it makes no difference so I think it must be the cable tension. With wear and tear I am guessing the cable has stretched so needs tightened at the barrel adjuster and not loosened? Thats my conslusion but maybe it is not that simple?! Any advice would be great, thanks. Dont want to mess with it too much before being sure incase it completely messes it up as I have done many times before :)

Decided to go with what I thought. Adjusted the rear barrell adjuster anti clockwise 4 clicks and the chain started overshooting in both directions (mainly at the low end). Undid the 4 clicks and the chain now overshoots in both directions at the low end yet hesistates to change when shifting from high to low (at the high end). Im summary gear adjustments are a dark art as I previously thought!


texts: What's the max weight a Btwin riverside 50 can hold?

texts: I've recently bought a Btwin Riverside 50 for daily commute. I weigh 94kg and usually ride with a backpack which weights around 3-5kg, I'm worried if the bike can hold my weight or the pedal might break off while standing. If the bike can't hold my weight, I want to know what modifications I can make so that it can hold my weight.


texts: Rear wheel rubs frame/cage while pedaling standing up

texts:
I've heard (and noticed) the rear wheel rub on the frame and front derailleur cage when pedaling standing up. The frame shows some paint wear at one spot. And, in the lowest gear, if I crank hard, I can hear the tire rub on the derailleur cage.

I'm riding a Kona Splice (20", 29er).

In the lowest gear, the front derailleur cage is pretty close to the tire as it is.

Should I upgrade parts? Tighten parts? Or not stand up at all knowing this?

Edit #1

Tires: Bontrager 29x2.1"

Edit #2

2013 specs show Geax Evolutions, 29x1.9"

Edit #3

Went lapping our backyard circuit just now. It would rub when climbing the east and west staights.

Pic of the rubbing on the frame (not as bad as I remembered):

Pic of me essentially pushing with my thumb, the tire fairly close to the frame:

However, if I try to move the rim, it doesn't move really. It would seem that it's only the tire/rubber? Under inflated perhaps? I'm around or below 30psi.

Edit #4

I actually have a 2012 model, confirmed with the color of the frame and the posted pics.

The specs show 29x2.1, and Vittoria Mezcal, why did the shop I bought the bike from swap those out for some Geax?

Also, why did the following models come with 29x1.9"? Also, in 2014, the Splice became a cross bike :/


texts:
One of the spokes of the front wheel of my bicycle is removed and this really affected the alignment, How can I replace it and make the wheel balanced back, or do I have to replace the whole wheel?

Thanks


texts: Thule Helium Pro hanging bike rack - assembling problem

texts:
I need to assemble the Thule Helium Pro 2 rack, which came in a box as two separate parts. I'm supposed to insert a metal bolt in the hole, but I can't do that cause there is a small metal piece inside this hole (please see the picture), which doesn't let me to do that.

Is it a defective rack? Or I'm supposed to do something (what?) with these parts to open the hole in full?
(I've sent email to the Thule support and got a robotic confirmation only - a week ago! I tried to call customer support and was on hold for 20 minutes, then gave up)


texts: Identify tandem frame with no LK99040060

texts:
Looking to identify my tandem frame
It was bought without decals and buyer claimed it to be a Gary Fisher but I want to know for sure before I have it refinished.
It has eccentric bottom bracket shell and v-brake mounts
Frame number stamped underneath the shell is LK99040060
Any help gladly appreciated


texts: Safety - Improve braking power in wet conditions

texts:
I have a Dawes Giro Competition with Vuelta Stylus Corsa rims (aluminium I think although I'm not certain), Mavic Aksion 700x25c slick tyres and Tektro R540 brakes. Brake pads are standard Tektro pads with plenty of pad left. All cabling is serviced and fully functional. Braking power is excellent in dry conditions.

When the road is wet, braking power is minimal. I need to improve braking power for the winter for my own safety. I've done some research to come up with some options:

Buy wet weather brake pads (Koolstop Dura 2 or Swissstop Green).
Buy winter tyres with lots of thread to improve grip on road.
Attempt to roughen the surface of the rims with sandpaper.

Option 1 is the cheapest and reviews of these brake pads are very positive. Option 2 is expensive and may not improve braking performance. Option 3 is hit-and-miss and I don't want to damage the rims.

What is my best option to improve my braking power in wet conditions?

Additional information from OP, provided in a comment:
I can apply the brakes quite hard without skidding. I mainly use the back brake. Perhaps new brake pads are my best option.


texts:
I have a pair of Continental Cyclocross Race, 700x35c, folding for my Fuji Cross 2.0 cyclocross. I just bought a pair of Continental Grand Prix 24. I had a look at this study where different tires where tested and their wattage per wheel has been listed.

Can anyone tell me how much difference in this "wattage per wheel" measure I have with my new and previous tires?


texts: San Francisco Bay Trail: current map of completed/proposed routes

texts:
This gap analysis is from 2005.

I want to start biking from Redwood City to San Francisco. I'd rather not bike near cars, which is what googlemaps suggests. and I'd love to bike along the shore.

related: bike routes around san francisco?, but I also am interested in the timeline for completion.


texts: Can this rear wheel be straightened or does it need to be replaced?

texts: This happened on a month old hybrid bike with 350km on it. I unluckily got the back wheel stuck in a grille when getting off a sidewalk. The wheel now wobbles a lot and keeps hitting the rear V-brakes on each rotation. The damage is isolated to this small region and I was wondering if this wheel could be straightened out, as opposed to replacing it.


texts: Can a new chain significantly improve the riding experience? If yes - what else can?

texts:
I am a casual commuter (in average 2 days per week, 30 km per day), on a generic bike which I bought a few years ago.

Yesterday I took the opportunity of having the bike reviewed and the chain and back cassette was changed (the technician said I am lucky to have gone so far and I believe him).

Coming back home after the repair was a new experience: significantly faster and easier.

My first question is whether an old vs new chain can change the riding experience in a significant way. I am trying to weight this vs a placebo effect (though I felt the same way this morning).

If the answer is "yes", than I would be keen on changing/fixing other elements which would help me. I want to keep the bike and the breaks are good (this is something I take care of since my life directly depends on them). Are there other parts I should explore changing/improving?

Note: I do not want to turn my bike into another bike, I am happy with the basic parts as they are. It is rather some elements which need periodic change (chain in the example above) or simple fixing which I am trying to locate.

In other words the V-breaks are great, even though changing to disk ones could be much better. The frame is heavy but never mind - I will not switch it to a carbon one. On the other hand if making sure that [something] is tight is important, I would make sure it is tightened. The whole question arose when I saw that enormous difference after just changing a chain (and some other basic adjustments I do not know about, but they were just adjustments)


texts:
I'm working on adding a front derailleur to a folding bike that started as a 1x setup.

Today I got a front derailleur mounted, and realised that I need some form of cable stop for the inner cable.  There is nothing on the frame already.

Given my FD is a bottom-pull, I will also need to bring the inner cable up from below, which means wrapping it under the Bottom Bracket housing.

Can I use a brake noodle to deal with the turn under the BB? If not, why not?

I have to use a full-length of housing from the shifter downward.  If that terminates at the noodle, which will both turn the inner cable upward, and leave the inner cable aiming at the FD clamp.  In theory I can get away with cable ties to secure the housing for most of its length.

Either e flexible cable like this:

Or a traditional hard noodle like this:

Gear cable is thinner than brake cable, so will fit through perfectly well.

The only downside I can see is aesthetics or tradition, if you prefer, which does not matter at all.


texts: Is there a Campagnolo / Shimano compatibility issue for friction shift systems?

texts:
I know that for indexed systems, mixing campy and shimano parts is a no-no. Does the same hold for friction drive trains?

The reason I ask is that I've never worked on campy parts before and I'm thinking of picking of an old Italian frame with a mix of campy and ofmega components with no wheels and I need to know what kind of wheels I will need.


texts:
I have a road bike from Circa 2003 and it currently boasts an ITM Millenium stem. The stem is a bit long for my liking at around 130mm and I was thinking of replacing it with a shorter one for a slightly more upright riding position.

I have a feeling my bars however are of clamping diameter 25.4 mm, although they may be 26mm as it is an Italian bike (ITM bars too). Shopping around I notice that pretty much all new stems are of the oversize 31.8 mm clamping diameter so I assume they won't fit my bars.

How would I get around this problem? I heard one could get shims to thicken the bars at the clamping point but sourcing them seems to be tricky.


texts:
First time here!
My brand new bike arrived this evening and I’ve broken it with an hour.
It’s a Vitus Nucleus 27 VR Bike (Altus 2x9) 2020
I took it out and about 50 mins into the ride I noticed the right pedal was feeling a bit off.
I just had the default plastic pedals on so assumed I’d just pushed them too hard.
Turns out I must have cross threaded the pedal and now there’s no thread left in my drive side crank arm.
The crankset is the SR Suntour XCM 36/22T 175mm.
I can’t find a direct replacement - it’s out of stock everywhere.
My question: What are my options for replacing this? Is there another crankset that I could easily slot into place? Is there an obvious upgrade?
Thanks for your help!


texts:
I use a Park Tool device to check for stretch on my derailleured bikes - can the same tool be usefully deployed on a 1/8" 'track' chain, does anyone know?

If not, how then to check for wear?


texts: What's the difference in threaded and threadless headset and stem

texts: What's the difference in threadless and threaded headsets and stems? Why change it? is it because it's easier for maintenance?


texts: how to adjust the derailer - apart from the L/H limiting screws

texts:
Pardon my newb terminology. My bike's chain will not stay on the H gear (the big ring) The front derailleur will not allow it.

I have loosened the limiter screw out to it's maximum and, still, no dice. Clearly there is more room to move, as I demonstrate manually:

I want to know what to attempt to adjust next. Clearly there is a bias toward the Low cog. Ideally I'd want to tighten that limiting screw so I'd have more room to manouvre in future.

Which of the other hinges should I try to work with next?

Every video I've found online so far only deals with those limiting screws.


texts: How to transport an unusable bike AND a set of wheels without a car?

texts:
So as you may know, I have recently assembled a bike, with great help from my friend. Problem is, wheels didn't arrive on time, rear rack wasn't available to buy until recently, and saddle post clamp broke recently.
I do not have a car, and my friends lives, and has his workshop, about 10 km from me. Riding back and forth using public transport would take about 1h each way, so I would greatly prefer to do it once, and go back on my bike, than spend 6 hours in the buses. But I have only 2 hands, wheels are 28 inches, and my bike is far from small and light.
Maybe someone had similar issue and found a solution?


texts:
I've read online not to wear underwear with bike shorts. Unfortunately, I don't have cycling specific attire.
What would be a best clothing to wear (below the waist, specifically)  for first time 75 km ride on the road?
Riding "Ride For Heart" in Toronto this Sunday, using Norco Cyclocross bike.

Update:
Thank you all for the advice. The ride went well and we finished in about 3.5 - 4 hours.  Avg Speed was ~20 km/h. Highest recorded - 37.5 km/h :)
Used normal synthetic gym shorts with synthetic undies. No rash, but my butt hurts a bit today :)


texts: Is it possible this hub can fit to my 8 speed and 32 spokes?

texts:
my bro's bike had 7 speed and 36 spokes...
is it possible his hub can fit to my 8 speed and 32 spokes?


texts: Are mountain bikes good for urban riding?

texts:
I'm planning to buy a bike - mostly using it in the city on a daily basis - sometimes long roads - But I want a cool bike and I think mountain bikes look very cool.

I would like to know how mountain bikes do on normal roads, especially in the city? Is it more tiring than a regular bike, or what are my other options for city commuting with the occasional touring ride?


texts: Buying rear rack during pandemic crisis - go real bottom, up high, or wait?

texts:
As you may know from my other question, I'm putting together a bike to commute. I'm big, heavy, and roads will be paved only first half of the way.
I will need to buy a rear rack for my bike. Thanks to COVID and huge amounts of people like me, who are fed up with public transport and irresponsible people in it, the middle range of racks is unavailable, and no one knows if it ever will be. Racks are light, but big and relatively delicate so shipping costs makes it unviable to order abroad. So I'm basically left with these options:

$15 rack that's cheap, relatively weak (officially 25kg, practically less), with traditional spring luggage clamp. They are made to be universal, for huge wheel range so they have obvious weak point and screws are known to be hard on the side mounted bike bags.

$50 - $60 range. Strong (officially 40kg, practically more), but with very narrow top and no way to keep any cargo that is not designed as a bike bag mountable on the rack.

I wanted $20 - $30 range rack that has wide top with spring holder and a mount that is easy on your bags, but I'd have to wait and hope they will ever appear, keep the reasonable price, and OEM market will not buy them wholesale. So that's probably not a real option.

I'm not asking which particular kind I should choose. Or rather I do, but my main focus is how one should decide which rack to choose when the middle shelf is empty?

Addendum — typical luggage

Heavy 17" laptop with charger et all
Lunch
Water and vitamin drinks
Some books or technical documentation on paper
emergency first aid kit

Things I may need to take less regularly but still often enough:

SDS Plus hammering drill
hammock, tarp and sleeping bag
Shooting range kit for blackpowder revolver, in a metal suitcase


texts: Bontrager thorn-resistant vs self-sealing tubes?

texts:
So I arrived in New Mexico a bit over a month ago from the East Coast. Little did I know, there are things called "goatheads" that will give you flats like crazy. So I found that out fast on my 29er. Knobby tires don't matter at all, it's about the tube. So, because I do not want to spend money at this time on a tubeless upgrade (I just got a 1x drivetrain), I needed a solution.

I went into the city and thought I found my magical solution. Orange Seal. Pour 4oz of that in each tube and I'm good. Well it seemed to work for a bit, but then after buying 2 CO2 canisters and 2 tubes this weekend, I've already had to use them on two separate rides. Both times I actually wasn't riding singletrack but just pavement. Deflated in about a minute or less and had to put in a new tube and use a canister.

So now I'm thinking these thick Bontrager tubes may be the ticket. But I'm not sure which to go with, the thorn-resistant or self-sealing ones.


texts: What kind of brake pads for Dia Compe centre pull brakes

texts: I have some Dia Compe center pull brakes shown below.  I was wondering what the best type of brake pads are to use for these brakes.  Looking around at pictures on the internet, many people use standard road caliper pads, while others use old style pads rectangular block pads (as in the picture) to preserve the authenticity. I've also seen a few examples of people using v-brake pads. are there any advantages to using a specific type of pad on brakes like this?  I really don't care about esthetics, and I'm really just looking for what will provide the best braking experience.


texts: Is Nike Hindsight glasses only a concept or there are a real similar products?

texts:
I came across the following issue - 'Nike' Hindsight concept glasses increase peripheral vision.

By the time of its publishing, these glasses were only a concept. My Question: is there a similar real working product in production?


texts:
I'm new at biking, and have seen many examples of left-turn situations, but none that quite match this one.  Simply, what is the proper / best way to complete the turn pictured below, or is it smarter just to dismount and act like a pedestrian?

I'm hoping for a catch-all answer, but if it matters, this is in the California bay area.


texts: What width tires will fit on a 1999 Trek Postal?

texts:
I'm using my old Trek Postal (5200/5400) as my winter beater. I'd like to test some studded tires, such as the Schwalbe Winter700x30 Wire but I'm not sure if the 30's will fit as the largest I've ridden to date is a 25 (or 27?).

Has anyone ridden a 30 or know how to determine if they'll fit, especially with the aggressive tread and studs.

Thanks,
Matt

Tire for reference: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AAZFGVI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=313MZ1AZTU1DO&coliid=I19MD4W468VK20


texts:
I recently purchased a 2nd hand bike, and I am facing a clicking noise when I pedal (under slightly higher than normal load). I feel it almost as a pair of clicks in both pedals, and I feel one click when one pedal is ahead and another click when the other one is ahead (1 click when each pedal is at 5'o'clock position and I add weight on it)

What I tried.
1) I noticed this first after changing the pedals, so i changed it back, tightened the pedals multiple times but it persists.
2) I tightened the screws on the cranks/chain rings (spider to chain ring) (they were quite quite loose) but it didnt seem to help (Are both the chain rings held with the same screws? I use the little chainring only)
3) I tightened the 8mm hex holding the crank arms itself. Also didnt seem to help.

2) and 3) Seemed to get loosened after the ride, so I wonder if they are indeed the problem. I have tightened them tighter now, hope to see in the next ride.

I have not done anything with the BB yet.

What else to look at, what can I do/try? Makes my bike feel very cheap :P I want to fix this.


texts:
This is very hard to explain, but I will try my best.

I recently got a Shimano Ultegra cassette, crankset, front and back  derailleurs, chain, and cables installed on my Giant TCX SLR1 2015 bike.

Every time I pedal, I feel a subtle click or slip on my left foot at a specific interval (when the left arm is going down). However, there is no sounds, I can only feel it in my feet. It’s very subtle.

However, I do not feel it when I put a lot of pressure or when off the seat. I really cannot pin it down to anything, hence I would be grateful for any opinion.


texts: Is a sprung saddle the answer to the saddle problems on my commuter bike?

texts:
The current saddle on my bike is getting past it use-by date, so I will shopping around for a new one. I use my bike for commuting to work, about 40-45 mins, 50% on seal roads and the rest on forest trails.

My current saddle is a non-sprung version with a high density foam padding.

My bike is a Giant Cypress from a few year back. Here is the 2011 version but it is pretty much the same.

I have seen saddles that are spring loaded and are tempted to go for them. However, I fear that I will be bouncing too much as I ride along. My current saddle is not spring loaded but I I get a very small amount a numbness around the crotch area.


texts: Can any one tell me what make and model this bike is? Stolen today

texts: It's my bike which was stolen today, only image I have of it. Please, need for the police and insurance...


texts: Dictionary of regional vocabulary differences (US vs UK)

texts:
Given that we appear to be about evenly divided between UK and US folks (and given that "Britain and the United States are two countries divided by a common language"), there should be a dictionary of regional differences in bike terms. The main differences seem to be American English and UK/AU/NZ English.

This was discussed on meta a bit, with some ideas there.

Definitely worth looking at https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/784/translating-cooking-terms-between-us-uk-au-ca-nz for ideas how to format well.

I'll make this a community wiki, please simply edit the one answer.


texts: Converted to drop bar and dual brake/shift levers and problems with front derailleur

texts:
Hoping someone can help out here.
I had originally had a 2016 Kona Deluxe hybrid. Over the years I changed to bullhorn bars with the original shifters etc. I love this bike, but I wanted drop bars and brake shift levers now.
Yes I know I should just buy a road bike, but I like this bike and would rather spend the time doing this as I enjoy it.
The bike still has the original front and rear derailleur which was Shimano Acera 3x front and Shimano Alivio 9 speed rear.
I purchased the Shimano Sora dual levers, right 9 speed and left 3 speed.
I installed everything, installed the new cabling and have successfully got everything to work, including the rear derailleur.
However, I am having problems with the front derailleur. It almost seems as if the cable pull is not enough to make it shift. I can get it to shift from the 1st ring to the 2nd. or the 2nd to the 3rd. I even installed a inline cable adjuster to get fine tuning and nothing seems to work.
Question: Is there a different derailleur I need/new crankset or is there something I need to do to adjust the levers?
I was googling and trying to figure out compatibility was confusing. I just assumed because both Shimano they would be fine?
Thanks :)


texts: Are Magura HS33e levers compatible with HS22 brakes?

texts:
I plan to convert a bike with Magura HS22 hydraulic brakes to electric. Thus I would like to replace the brake lever by one having the controller output to stop the motor while braking.
From my research Magura propose only one such replacement part, the HS33E.
Did anyone try to use those lever on the HS22 braking system? Are they compatible?


texts: Is disk brake effectiveness mitigated by tyres losing traction under strong braking?

texts:
So I understand that disk brakes are superior to rim brakes and this leads to faster stopping particularly in wet weather.

I have wondered though, in wet conditions when you wish to stop as fast as possible doesn't the superior stopping effect of the disks result in the tyre losing traction ? At some point the benefits of being able to stop the wheel moving is presumably overcome by the tyre being unable to maintain traction on the road surface.

I'm assuming a decent quality tarmac surface and commuter type tyres on a day that is wet enough that rims and rim brakes would be compromised to some extent.

I realise there are a ton of variables here but I presume somebody has looked into this and I was curious to know.

Thanks.


texts: Using 3 gear shifter on 2-ring chaninset

texts:
I recently picked up a children's bike from a council waste site. I'm going to refit it and I had a question about the compatibility of the gear shifter and chainset.

The shifter is a grip-shifter made by Saiguan (it looks very similar to the SRAM shifter). The left hand shifter has three settings and there are three rings on the chainset.

The chainset needs replacing but the gear shifters look like they are ok. However I can't locate a 3-ring chainset which has a crank-arm short enough for my child. Therefore I was going to replace with a 2-ring chainset.

So my question is are there any 2-ring chainsets compatible with a 3-gear shifter?

Hope this isn't a daft question, and  thanks in advance for your input.

Chris


texts: Is it OK to have a single front chainring paired with 7 speed at the back?

texts: I'm planning to have a single front chain ring to be paired with my 7 speed at the back. I'm still saving up for a 10 speed.


texts:
I ride a rather usual Merida hard-tail mountain bike.
Recently I've come to notice that when I start pedaling (bike already in motion), it can take up to as much as quarter of a turn for the pedals to click and the chain to start pulling the bike again.
What could cause this and more importantly, how can this be fixed? Is this merely a problem of chain tension?


texts:
Is WD-40 really bad to apply on bikes? I was told so but still see people doing that.

Also I saw WD-40 launching their new products of bike lubricant and degreaser. Did anybody try those?


texts:
For me, riding a bike is often practical, good for my health, the environment, etc., but I ultimately ride bikes because I enjoy it.

I'm curious to learn about others' decisions for riding knobby tires on their commuters, aside from practical reasons, which don't interest me.

I tried it for awhile on my CX bike in NYC, and wasn't in love, but I see so many commuters setup with knobbies I can't help but wonder if there is some unexplored land of fun I've yet to experience.

And yes, the 'answer' is: just try it myself again.


texts:
I have an older version of this bike:

They have made some changes to the components since I bought my bike but it is more or less the same.  Here are the specs on the newer bike.

I was hoping to put a solid fork on my bike for the winter.  I want to keep the mountain feel and have lots of clearance for wide tires, etc but I want to get rid of the weight and give my fork a rest.

When choosing a solid fork what do I need to know?

Will any solid fork fit onto my bike?  Do forks come in different sizes?  Different diameters?  Different lengths?  I heard something like you need a special fork if you are going to put it on a bike that was designed to be used with shocks.
I know that I want a fork with disk break mounts so this makes the search slightly more difficult.  Ideally I would also like rack/fender mounts.  (For future touring).
My wheel size is 26 inches, what would happen if I used a 700c fork on my bike?  This seller claims thats what he was using this solid fork for.

Edit:

Thanks for the great information.  After reading I have been looking around for a used local fork.  I think that I found one possibility.  But any feed back would be appreciated.

The fork was designed to be used with 700C or 29 inch wheels but it has an axel to crown length of roughly 17 inches (431 mm).  I currently have 100mm Travel in my suspension fork so Lantius says that I should get a fork with a length of 455 mm (17.9 inches).  Is this reasonable?  Does it matter if it was designed for a 700C tire if the fork length is correct?
As you can see in the picture of the fork the fork has some rake.  Is this a problem?  Will that amount of rake make the bike ride strangely/differently?
The steer tube/ headset size is 1 1/8th standard size which is the same as my bike so no concern there.

Here is a picture of the fork:


texts: Why does my bike crank creak and come loose?

texts: I recently purchased a Trek FX 7.2 and about 2 weeks after purchase I was riding and I noticed a creaking sound and shortly after the crank fell off. I brought bike back to where I purchased it and they put the crank back on and put the chain derailleur back on as it fell off. Great, no problems with the bike until about 1-2 weeks after where I was out riding and I noticed a creaking noise on the same spot, the left crank. As soon as this started I went right home and tightened the crank the creaking went away. I guess what I am asking is what can I do to the bike so that it does not creak and fall off every 2 weeks. I am a large person standing 6 foot 1 and about 270 pounds. Is the problem I have just a heavy man problem where I need to bring the allen key with me always and tighten it every 2 weeks or can something be done to avoid this entirely?


texts: How to reinstall a freehub with cartridge bearings?

texts:
My road bike's freehub has an issue - the outer part of the body has about 1mm of play against the axle, resulting in a wobbly cassette. The freehub still functions but it needs replacing.

It's a Giant part similar to FH06KA-401, which is the right part for my bike according to this list. It attaches to the hub with an 11mm hex fitting. The hub has cartridge bearings and the axle is a QR setup with cone and lock nuts at either end.

I followed these steps to remove the freehub:

Remove the cassette
Remove the non-drive side cone nut.
Tap the NDS end of the axle pretty hard with a rubber mallet until it fell out of of the drive side. The DS end of the axle still has a cartridge bearing and cone nut attached. The NDS cartridge is undisturbed in the hub.
Unscrew the freehub with an 11mm hex key and a length of tubing for leverage. It was on really tight.

At that point I tried to fit my new FH06KA-401. It didn't fit into the hub body. I can't find much data on Giant hubs so I think I need my Giant dealer to find and order the right part. They're closed until next week and I have a bike fit in a few days so I decided to reinstall the old freehub for now.

I started to follow the steps in reverse:

Insert the freehub and tighten hard.
Re-insert the axle by pushing it through the freehub body and tapping with a rubber mallet until it sits snug.

At this point I saw the the axle doesn't spin as freely as I would expect. If I flick it, it makes maybe one rotation. In contrast my front axle spins a few times. I put the cassette back on just to check and as I expected it's like pedalling through treacle.

I've now realised I didn't think through how to reinstall the axle, and I can't find much help online for this type of hub.

Could this be because the DS bearing is no longer fitted tight? do I need a press? Or the axle not engaging properly with the NDS bearing? Or something else?

Should I just give up and wait for the Giant mechanic to take a look?

Thanks for any advice!


texts: My rear wheel shifts in the dropouts, what could cause this?

texts: I weigh 175 lbs. and I can put some good torque into my compact double (I'm riding a steel frame). I'm having trouble with my wheel coming out of the dropouts, or becoming misaligned. It's a big problem. Are the wheels to blame? I already took out the dropout adjusters, and tightened the quick releases about as much as humanly possible. What can I do? Wheels are a big investment, I know this because the the wheels are brand new. The axle rests about half way through the drop out. Is this to blame? Maybe the axle isn't long enough? There is knurling on the quick release and on the outside of the hub.


texts:
Currently trying to find larger bikes for our kids aged 5 & 7. Oldest's next bike is going to be a struggle to fit in the back of the car (for various reasons they cycle to school in the morning and car it back in the evening, so this is important).

Seemingly there are no kids' bikes with quick release wheels. Problem is most ebay sellers are rubbish at describing their bikes in detail so it's hard to tell what's on offer.

Is this because quick-release wheels in kids bikes are non-existant? If they exist, what brands should we be looking out for?

(Ebay is where we go for children's bikes. There may be hard-core purists here who'll tell us to go to the nearest independent bike shop for the perfect bike and blow the cost, but there's so much value in second-hand kids bikes we can't justify buying new. Plus they so quickly grow on to the next one)


texts: What are all of the speed numbers for a bike?

texts:
If you are buying a bike, there are a lot of different speeds. Is there a complete list of speeds? I'm trying to create an array...
var allSpeeds = ["single-speed","3-speed","12-speed"];


texts:
I just bought a new mini pump (with a foot-stand and pressure gauge to get up to about 100psi), however, in order to get a good seal you have to screw the pump-head onto the valve.

The issue is, with the presta valves I run, when unscrewing the pump there's a long distance between the pumps seal breaking and being able to come free of the valve (letting it do its job), so if the tyre is up to 100/115psi it can often go back down to around 80 or 90 in the time I've unscrewed it.

Am I doing something wrong, or is it just a slightly awkward setup on the pump?


texts: My fork stem is rusted - should I replace the forks?

texts:
This is my first post on here. I will try to be as specific as possible, but I'm also new to bike maintenance, so apologies for any wrong terminology.

I have a Giant ATX 2 from 2017, bought second-hand quite recently:

I'm in the process of servicing the headset, but it turned out the stem was pretty well rusted on. It took quite a lot of whacking (with a rubber mallet) and twisting the lock nut etc. to get it free. I'm now looking at the stem on the forks and wondering whether it's worth trying to sand it down and regrease it etc. or if I'm just better off getting new forks. I know they're not great forks (SR Suntour XTC that come with the bike), but I'm trying not to shell out too much if possible (hence getting the bike second-hand).

This is the state of the stem/forks:

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Jamie


texts: How to nonverbaly signal a drafting proposition to fellow cyclist?

texts: There are situations when words cannot be used, e.g. during heavy wind or when someone is out of breath. Is there an universal hand signal to communicate a proposition of a chain gang behavior to fellow cyclist?


texts:
My wife's bike doesn't have room on the upright to mount the Krytonite U-Lock she was given as a gift. The plastic mounting bracket sticks out way too far. She has a small framed Specialized Vita.

Is there some alternate bracket that can be purchased that would allow it to be mounted via the existing holes in the frame where the water bottle bracket would go?


texts: Shimano 9-speed shifters high-end vintage vs low-end modern

texts: I'm upgrading an old Cannondale r700 roadbike to 9x2 speed. It is fitted with its original 105 groupset but it needs new shifters. So far I can see two options. Buy a new set of Shimano Sora 3500 levers or get a second hand set of Ultegra 6500 shifters/brifters (ebay has a pair that are 'as new'/never mounted). Does anyone have any advice on whether a modern but lower end component would be a better choice than a 'vintage' but higher end component?


texts:
I picked up this folding bike for $25 thinking I would google it and have all the info I needed to get it functioning.
Any help finding documentation would be great, what kind of battery can I plug into it would be great start.
Thank you


texts:
I am trying to get an old Raleigh SC 40 bike back to riding condition. The seat post doesn't tighten at all and the culprit is that the spacer sleeve is stuck well into the frame.

In order to get a new seat post, I would assume that this spacer needs to be removed.  Any ideas for easy removal.  I tried to wedge a small flat screwdriver between the spacer and the frame but still can't loosen it. Looking at it I would assume that it is aluminum (definitely metal). Use WD 40? Then what!?! Thanks!


texts: Why are there so many types of mech hanger?

texts:
I have just stripped the threads on my mech hanger and I'm in the process of buying a new one. There are so many different types, even for one manufacturer, I was wondering what the reason for this is?

I understand why different manufacturers might use different designs but why should one manufacturer have so many slightly different products that all do essentially the same thing?


texts: What is typically the best bolt to hold Park BBT-22 on to square-taper spindle?

texts:
If one is trying to remove a stuck square-taper bottom bracket, it is hard to both hold the tool onto the bottom bracket splines and turn it at the same time. Many tools, like the Park BBT-22, have a hole so you can bolt it down using the crank bolt hole in the spindle, so you can just focus on turning it, or so you can just hold the tool in a vice and use the bike frame as a lever.

However, documentation seems fairly sparse about exactly which bolt one needs for this. Obviously it's like a crank bolt, but longer. But what's crank bolt threading? What length works best? This forum thread has the advice "Get an M8x1.0 bolt 40 or 50 mm long. Note the thread pitch is 1.0 mm, not the more common 1.25 mm that is usual on M8 bolts." Can someone confirm that is correct? It seems hard to mess up the threading, but the answer is from thirteen years ago, refers to a BBT-2 rather than BBT-22 (typo?), and it's not clear what length is optimal. Hoping someone has such a bolt in their tool drawer and can just measure, so I can order the best bolt (and I'm sure I won't be the last person to have this question).


texts:
Where do the springs on a skewer go in relation to dropouts? And which way do they face?

My springs are conical but I can't recall which direction the cone pointed or if they were between hub and dropout or dropout and skewer end! Doh!

At the moment they are pointed out and between dropout and skewer end, but I need to fit a trailer hitch point.


texts: How do I calculate the spring weight rating for my bike?

texts:
I have a home built bike design and the rear shock absorber that came with the part bottoms out so I want to get one that is more appropriate. But I have no idea how to calculate which one to buy as far as the tension of the spring is concerned.

At Amazon for example there are many from 550lbs to 1500lbs shocks. I don't want an immovable spring nor do I want another weakling so how do I calculate what shock to get?

ADDITIONAL INFO EDIT
I found this calculator
https://www.tftuned.com/spring-calculator
I put in 210lbs - shock stroke 1.5" - wheel travel 4.5" - 33%sag

I don't have a clue how to read these results.


texts:
My bike key is broken off inside the lock, I already remove the key from the lock but I have no backup key to unlock it.

It is a very ordinary key, just like this:

Is there any way to unlock my bike? Will the brick or a saw be helpful?

Thanks


texts:
On a 16" folding bike, the front fender slider tends to release over time and increase the distance between the tire and the fender. This is a problem because, as the fender angle changes, the end of the fender (which terminates before the brake) rubs against the tire.

I could get new sliders and stays (they're inexpensive plastic parts) but this has been a problem with this bike since it was new and same problem will recur fairly quickly. How can I solve this problem?

The bike:

Front fender when it's tight and all is well:

Front fender when it loosens and rubs against the top of the tire:

The fender end:


texts: Alternatives to shorter cranks for knee pain

texts:
I've recently developed pain at the front of my knees when cycling. I suspect this is caused by, or at least made worse by, my bike having cranks that are too long for my leg length (172.5mm cranks for 77cm inseam).

Assuming crank length is a factor, a long term solution would obviously be to get shorter cranks. However, I can't afford that right now.

Are there any bike fit adjustments that I could make to open the angle of/reduce the strain on my knees at the top of the pedal stroke? I've already experimented with various seat height and setback changes without much success. I'm prepared to temporarily compromise other aspects of my bike fit, if it would allow my knees to recover.


texts: this is my first post here. How can I service a DT swiss 240 front hub, as in remove the adapter ( end cap ) to get to the insides? Do i need a special tool? Does it even need servicing? There is plenty of info out there on how to service the rear hub and I have already done that but I can't find anything on servicing the front hub. Please help.


texts: Is 32km possible to ride with my body condition?

texts:
My work place is 16km away from my home and the route I am traveling has traffic round the clock.

I am planning to get a Kross K- 40 26T Multi Speed Bicycle to travel but I weigh 80kg and I am not fit (have both high and low blood pressure). My friend is scaring me that with this weight and health condition I can't ride 32km per day.


texts: wheel does not turn when pedaling on mongoose motivator

texts: on a Mongoose Motivator, when I spin the pedals the wheel does not engage. I removed the chain and lubricated it but it still does not work.


texts: How can I reduce back pain on a shared bike with poor shock absorbers

texts:
I ride a bicycle to work every day for several months now.
I use a bicycle sharing system that my city offers, and it's very convenient: I don't have to worry about locking the bike or maintenance, I can use the bike only one way etc.

However, recently I've started having back pains, and I think it has to do with the fact that the bikes in the sharing system don't have good shock absorbers, and I can feel every bump in the road giving me a strong jolt.

Is there a way I can reduce the damage to my back while still using the bike sharing system?


texts:
I have got a new mountain bike(hardtail wtih powerspline bb) and it is on 100 kms. When I push the pedals I hear little sound from the left side. It is only from the left and I think it can be the crank or pedal?! (not sure if it can be the BB as long as I hear it from the left). The sounds comes when the crank is almost in maximum down position.

The interesting is that when I go out for a ride the sound/creak comes after 8-10 kms. After that I return home>clean the bike>go out for next ride>it comes again after some kilometres. It is very strange. Is it possible to be something different, like mud from the tires or something like that?

I have checked the cranks and I think they are tighten enough to the BB. I am not sure about the pedals, however. Will it help if I apply on them chain dry lube and tighten them?

Thank you in advance!


texts: How do I prevent the rear derailleur from slipping gears?

texts: What's the best way to tune the rear derailleur of my bike to stop slipping gears?  It seems that every time I re-adjust it, the middle/upper gears are perfectly aligned, but the lower gears never stay put.  When I'm climbing up hills, the chain keeps slipping up/down a gear, and never stays put.


texts:
I'm interested in road bike tires and how width affects how long they last.

It seems common-sense that a wider tire would wear better, as there's simply more of it to "spread" the wear, but I'd like to know if this is true in practice. Answers based on experience or actual studies/research would both be interesting.

I'd normally run wider tires at a lower pressure appropriate to the load, but this may make comparison harder.

Could braking and cornering have different effects on tire wear? For example, perhaps wider tires wear less in braking, but more due to cornering. If this was the case then the answer might depend on how much braking/cornering the rider does. There might also be a difference between the front and back tire.


texts: is there such as thing as a tapered-to-straight adapter for MTB headset?

texts:
I am trying to assemble a bike for someone in my family.  There are a few challenges. The first is my limited experience, the second is her wish-list, which includes using a 27.5" MTB frameset she already has, a limited budget, and a preference to not use a MTB-style suspension fork but a lighter-weight rigid fork.
The headtube expects a  threadless tapered steerer, 1-1/2" to 1-1/8".  With the limited budget, that leaves only a few choices: low-end all-carbon or an alloy steerer with carbon-blades.  I have seen many low-end carbon forks on eBay, Amazon, and Alibaba, but the reviews are sprinkled with comments like "I had to take a dremel to the dropouts". So I would really prefer to get one with an alloy steerer from a "brand name" bike manufacturer. But they all seem to be straight 1-1/8" steerers, not tapered.
Is there such a thing as an adapter for a headset, whose bottom bearing assembly is a 1-1/2" to 1-1/8" adapter, something along the lines of this mockup:


texts: Shimano Dura Ace FC7900 crankset with 11 speed group?

texts:
I have a Dura ace FC7900 crankset and was wondering If I can use it on a bicycle with ultegra 11 speed group?

The crankset I have is this one:
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-dura-ace-crankset-fc-7900-53-39-170mm-31545

Thanks


texts:
My chain is well over the 0.75% extension at which I would normally replace it.
 However, the cassette and chainrings are also old enough that a new chain would slip on them, so they would also need to be replaced.

The drivetrain currently works, despite being worn, so there doesn't seem much point in replacing anything yet.

How long should I leave it before replacing the entire drivetrain?


texts: Commercially available sprung tyres/wheels?

texts:
I was wondering if anyone knew of any commercially available sprung tyres or wheels. I'm talking about wheels that take do the shock absorption instead of a pneumatic tyre.

This is all I can find at the moment

I'm sure I saw a kickstarter for a set a while ago but I can't seem to find it anywhere.


texts: How to find the cage length of a rear derailleur?

texts:
I need to replace my rear derailleur. I've been looking at a few ones on eBay, however, my issue is that the seller does not know the size of the "cage". Specifically, I have a Shimano Tiagra RD-4400 that I would like to replace. On the actual derailleur it does not explicitly state the size. I can do the math with my 12-25t cassette and 30-52t 3 ring chains to know that what I currently have is a GS. But the sellers of a few of the RD-4400s I've seen on eBay don't know the cage length. Since they aren't connected to a bike, I can't estimate it based on the gears.

Is there a way to figure it out by just looking at the derailleur? Again, I don't see it explicitly stamped on my on RD-4400 so I assume it won't be stamped on the eBay ones... Thanks!


texts: Listening to audio without obstructing ears

texts:
I'm looking for a way to listen to my audiobooks while commuting without obstructing my ears.

One (rather expensive) option appears to be the Tunebug Shake (a Bluetooth turn-your-helmet-into-a-speaker gizmo); however, I'm hesitant to spend $120 on a device made by a company which does all their consumer promos with skater-style helmets and doesn't answer emails asking questions about sound quality with vented helmets.

Another option would be a water-bottle speaker (I commute with a Camelbak -- this is Austin, after all -- so either of these mounts are fine). Obvious downside is positioning -- my two water-bottle cages are below and behind my ears -- and several of the commercially available devices are specific to Apple hardware (and the thought of buying an iPod rather than using my existing Android-based phone smarts a little).

Suggestions? Experience?


texts: Are there stepped ferrules for 4mm housing?

texts: I'm looking for stepped ferrules that fit my jagwire shifting cable housing (4mm) and the cable stop on my 80's steel frame (aprox. 4.8mm). Do these exist?


texts: Is SRAM RED AXS Power Meter, 48/35T compatible with Tarmac Pro Disc – SRAM ETAP

texts: I am interested in purchasing specialized "Tarmac Pro Disc – SRAM ETAP" bicycle that comes with "SRAM Force AXS, 48/35T" crankset.  I want a crank power meter and want to know if the "SRAM RED AXS Power Meter, 48/35T" is compatible.


texts: What causes my chain to derail at the rear when I accelerate?

texts:
I recently bought a beat-up old mountain bike for commuting. I've tried to clean and adjust the derailleurs and everything seems to work well enough in my garage. But when I put heavy weight on the pedals (say, starting across an intersection after a stop light) the rear gear momentarily derails with a crash (or do you say the chain derails?), I flounder for a second, there's another ugly clashing sound, and then things go back to normal.

Is this something that I can adjust my way out of or more likely an indication of a worn-out part?


texts: What should I look for when buying chain lube / lubricant?

texts:
In the past, I personally have only used WD-40.

However, I have occasionally had my bicycle looked over at the locally run, free service sessions and most of the mechanics there use a hand applied type of greasy gel (I forget the name).

Questions:

Is WD-40 suitable for bicycle chains?
Would alternatives provide better chain longevity?
When shopping around for lubricant, what are the most important things to look for?
What do you use and why?

(optional added extra) Any tips for reducing chain wear?


texts: Can I use a cyclocross bike for regular road-biking purposes?

texts: I want to race cyclocross, and I also want to ride some longer rides out on the road. Can I buy a cyclocross bike and use it for both cyclocross and some serious road rides (I'm talking century type rides)? Or will I be uncomfortable riding long rides on a cyclocross bike?


texts: Convert 2019 Giant TCX Advanced Pro 2 1x to 2x

texts:
I'm looking at a 2019 Giant TCX Advanced Pro 2 which was sold as a 1x.  I have a Shimano 2x groupset laying around and would love this bike as a 2x.
Based on this image from this sold listing, it looks like there's a spare entry into the downtube:

And this review shows a hole behind the seat tube above the BB:

Are my eyes decieving me or could I run gear cable down that and into a front derailleur?


texts: Is there a cheap touring bike that is as light as a road bike

texts:
I want a touring bike that is as light as a road bike - basically I want a road bike with a touring bike geometry - ie around  10 or 11Kg, excluding pannier racks, and other add-ons.  My price range for a complete bike is £500 to £1000 max - is that possible? Either as a frame which I can build up, or an off-the-shelf built bike?

I've had my current touring bike for 10 years, everything has been replaced at least 3x and  it is ideal for everything I do, but I am sure it doesn't need to be so heavy (14Kg) for what I do - long commutes / touring holidays.


texts:
First of all, I haven't set my budget yet but I want to build a full suspension MTB in the near future.

I was thinking if it is a good idea to build an Enduro bike with a DH frame. I mean I know the suspension travel for DH is longer, so logically 'maybe' I can put an Enduro fork in there and effectively reducing the slack geometry (slightly) since the fork is slightly shorter (?), while setting/changing the rear suspension also shorter, also Enduro gearing, then boom I have an Enduro bike. Then when I want to do a more aggressive DH I can 'simply' change the fork and use longer suspension travel in the back and boom I have a DH machine.

Initially I was thinking this but with Enduro frame instead, but it seems more doable with a DH frame as 'logically' you can use shorter suspension on a supposedly long suspension frame than the other way around.

What do you think? is this a bad idea?


texts: How to measure a frame to find an appropriate rim?

texts:
Question: How does one measure their frame in order to know which size rims will fit?

Context: Flatmate left a few months ago, forgot (perhaps intentionally) a Traitor Cutlass frame. When asked, he said keep it.

I read Wheelpro's ebook on wheelbuilding. Tons of great information. I'm excited to get started. One subject not covered, and something I've been having a difficult time finding resources on - is how to know whether a rim will fit?

I understand the rim to frame isn't the only equation - tire size, brakes, fender, ect. all need to be considered too. Are there any calculators or rules of thumb which I should be aware of before blindly buying a 700c and hoping it all works out?


texts: Are chainring bolts alone strong enough?

texts:
Because of a custom application, I need to be able to use 104BCD chainrings. However, I need a stand-alone spider to hold the chainrings; the chainwheel will not be mounted directly to a 104BCD crank.
The only 104BCD spider that I can find is the Profile Racing BMX spider, which has a hole that is too big for the spindle it will go on, and will require machining to adapt.
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Racing-104mm-4-bolt-Spider/dp/B001GSQQDA
I have access to a laser cutter, so I can have a 104BCD spider cut out of plate steel with the size of hole that I need. The problem is that for a spider made from a plain piece of plate steel, there is no "ridge" machined into the spider to hold the chainring centered. The chainring will be held to the flat spider entirely by the chainring bolts. This is a little different than usual because most cranksets and spiders have machined ridges to hold the sprocket, and the chainring bolts only take part of the load. The question is, are chainring bolts alone strong enough to hold a chainring? Should I use steel chainring bolts?


texts: Sunglasses for cycling - what features to look for?

texts: I need some new sunglasses for cycling - what features will actually be helpful - I've seen ones with vents, polarized lens, rubberised frame, replaceable lens . I just need the best value model that looks good.


texts:
My partner has a Kona Sutra with Avid BB-7 disc brakes. The front brake rubs intermittently on the rotor. I just went to see if I could figure out what the problem was and right now the disc runs true and quiet. The disc is a Shimano CenterLock on an Alfine dynamo hub.

Usually when we notice the rubbing it is part way through a ride. Our usual route takes us down a relatively steep hill early in the ride. I'm wondering if the rotor could be warping from the heat of braking down the hill – though I'm not sure why it would stay warped for the next 20-30 minutes (for the rest of the ride).

Any suggestions for things to check or ways to isolate the problem?


texts:
I recently bought the below bicycle 26 inch

https://www.trackandtrail.in/cycles/mach-city/ibike-7-speed/

My Height is 5:11,   after riding for one week i started feeling pain at upper back below neck and also near the shoulders,  Can you recommend correct sitting posture for this flat handle cycle.

Also can you recommend few links for good warmup exercise before cycling.


texts: Are chain ring spacers a good solution to adjust chain line?

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I recently converted my mountain bike from a 2x10 to a 1x10.  I have a Shimano XT Hollowtech ii crankset and I like it a lot, but its traditionally a 2 speed crankset.  When I'm in my 1st gear on the rear, there is some cross chaining going on and no matter how well I adjust my rear derailleur, if I back pedal a little bit, such as to get my pedals in a good position to get on the bike and take off, the chain will drop into the 2nd gear cog. To remedy this, I have found two potential solutions.

Buy a new 1x10 speed crankset such as the Shimano Zee. This obviously is a more expensive option.
Get some longer chain ring bolts and some chain ring spacers.

My question is will option #2 be sufficient for mountain biking?  I wasn't sure if adding spacers may somehow cause some sort of vulnerability in the crankset by possibly not allowing as much force or tension on the pedals? Or am I delusional and it does nothing to cause any additional weakness or vulnerability to the crankset?  If spacers are completely safe for my application, this would be the best option.


texts: Could I have enough chain retention on a 1X system with just a narrow wide chainring without a clutch?

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My bike is a 2017 Fuel EX 5, i am considering converting it to a 1X (pronounced '1 by') chainring. But i am unsure if i will get enough chain retention to stop my chain falling off with just a narrow wide chainring. Has anybody else tried this?

Thanks

EDIT: I am referring to trail riding


texts: Can I put a 700c (28") wheel on a 26" or 650b fork, it looks like I'll have plenty of room but I would need to get something to move my v brakes as they wouldn't touch the rim


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I recently got this bike for very cheap... cleaning it up and will sell it since I have no use for it. No idea what to ask for it though.

Anyone know anything about these?

Rear hub is an internal 3 speed hub.

The only markings I see are Power King. Made in Taiwan. On seat-tube I see a "Korvettes Laboratory Approved" sticker.

I'm honestly amazed at how well it is cleaning up. All of the chrome is shining up well, every bearing is still turning smoothly and the shifter and hub even work.


texts: So I'm looking around for a way to convert my three ring crank 8 speed drive train to a single cog 12 speed setup. I currently have a 135mm hub. My idea is to buy a new wheel and a compatible hub and lace it up. The issue I am having is locating such an animal as far as a 135mm Hub that will accept the XD body. I have looked a SRAM 900 bodies but they are thru the roof and then adding the XD body well my bike isn't going on any title rides.. Any ideas on how to put this together on a budget? I have the wheel so the focus is in the hub..


texts: I'm trying to change the tires on a c. 1971 Raleigh Twenty, and I cannot for the life of me get the front wheel off: nuts are loosened, dynamo/basket support/mudguards all disengaged, but it won't come out: what am I missing?


texts: What is the difference between Light and Motion's Urban 800 Chainbreaker and Urban 800 Anchor Steam bike lights?

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The only difference I can see is the color, but their website lists them as separate products.
http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/urban


texts: Any chance of identifying this tandem. (S/N T9012 737) Could be other numbers under cable guide. Manufactured around 1990 I think

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Need to identify this tandem likely manufactured around 1990.  S/N T9012 737.  Could be additional numbers under the cable guide.

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texts: What is a good camera arrangement for city riding?

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I would like to have continuous camera coverage while commuting on city streets, in order to have evidence in any collision.  I have been experimenting with an ATC3K mounted on the pannier rack, facing backwards.  At 15 fps on a 2Gb SD card, the maximum it can use, it provides about an hour to 90 minutes of footage.  I manually stop and start it at the beginning and ending of each ride.

Pros

The picture quality is adequate at 640x480.
It cost about $100

Cons

The chain and freewheel clatter mask any other sounds.
The control screen is hard to see and the buttons, which are under a water-resistant rubber cover, are hard to press.  As a result, it takes about a minute of button mashing to erase the SD card.
Fairly narrow field of view.
Full coverage would need two cameras, and twice the amount of fussing, before and after each ride.

What cameras and mounting arrangements might be better?


texts: Rear wheel not moving when axle nuts tightened

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I have a racing bike with the wheels secured by axle nuts. For the rear wheel, when I secure the nuts to finger tight the wheel turns fine, but when I tighten them properly the wheel is stuck and will move only with a lot of effort on the pedals.

When the wheel is loose out of the bike it turns fine and, like I say, it turns when the nuts are finger tight.

The wheel has worked in the past. The only thing I have changed recently is that I had to remove it to change some of the spokes, but I'm not sure why this would cause this problem. I've checked and it doesn't seem to be rubbing on the stays or the brakes. I have had that problem in the past, but this is very different in that the wheel barely turns when I turn the pedals.

The wheel uses a freewheel (6 cogs) rather than a freehub.

UPDATE on 8 December

I removed the wheel and then removed the freewheel and adjusted the position of the locknuts and spacers. I also removed and refitted the derailleur, and then refitted the wheel. The wheel then worked ok for a while, but then seized up in the same way.

I have since disassembled, greased and reassembled the axle. I have then given it a 10 minute test ride and the wheel did seize up. However there was quite a lot of creaking and clunking coming from the rear wheel area. This was something which was happening before the wheel seized up (I forgot to mention it in the original version of the question).

I've attached a photo of the rear wheel with the freewheel still attached, and another with it removed.

Grateful in advance for your help.

Chris


texts: How can I build my own open-source cyclometer?

texts: I am interested to build a bike but I would also like to have free software/hardware. How can I build a cyclometer with open-source software? Would it be possible to find reflashable hardware or open schematics?


texts: How can I remove a fork if the bolt on the stem is rusted?

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I got run over a car a few weeks ago and now i have to change the fork.
It's an old racer, as you can see in the picture, with a 1 inch fork. I am trying to loosen it from the frame, but I can't loosen the bolt marked with 2 because of the rust and now it's completely gone. Any advice?

I couldn't post any picture, but the stem and fork is similar to this one:

And the bolt I am talking about is the one that is in the stem and goes to the fork.


texts: My bike suspension is very stiff how can I make it looser

texts: My ozone 500 ultra shock mountain bike suspension is very stiff how can I make it looser I've tried oil ,wd-40 ,and other things please help me my bike is so bouncy


texts: (Dis-)Advantages of "push-in" to expandable handlebar end plugs

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I just discovered that my extension type handlebar plug was almost impossible to remove, at least without lasting damage/complete destruction. Until now I only ever encountered "push-in" plugs, which have a slightly bigger, but flexible part that holds the plug in place when pushed in. Currently the only difference I see is the former is potentially not removable, the latter is unproblematic in that respect. However there must be a reason for the existence of expandable plugs.

How do push-in plugs as handlebar end caps compare to expandable type ones, i.e. what are the respective advantages and disadvantages?


texts: What can I get for panniers to commute with my 17" laptop?

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I have looked for a pannier that can hold my 17" laptop for a couple of years. No such thing exists. I tried contacting a couple of places to make one, but they never replied. So, now I'm trying to make or combine things to get myself a rain-safe pannier for my laptop. Are there any ideas on what I can use? Here are the details of what I've got to work with.

My laptop dimensions:

17" screen
16.5" x 11" x 1.5" dimensions.

I bought an Arkel Cam Lock Hook Kit 10". That looked like a great way to attach a bag to my rack whether I use an existing bag or somehow make my own bag.

I also have a couple of laptop sleeves I got thinking I could put the laptop in a larger pannier in the sleeve. The sleeves ended up only protecting against scratches. The panniers I tested all stretched to leave room for the laptop, but the laptop corners were left very vulnerable with almost no protection.

I have a Specialized 2011 Globe Haul 1. The rack is built-in and can hold up to 50kg (110 lbs). As the bike is designed to haul so much, the bike was geared very low when I bought it. I had an additional gear added to the front sprocket so I could ride better when going down hills. Even so, this is very decidedly a commuter bike, not a speedy racing/road bike.

What I have been using: I was strapping a laptop backpack on the rack (on top) with bungee cords, but the backpack is worn out. I'm afraid of getting caught in some Dallas rain, in which my backpack, with ripped sides and broken zipper, can't protect my laptop. Also, I had a really hard time strapping my lunch on with my backpack, and I sometimes avoided riding because it took awhile to get everything strapped on, so I'd like a pannier that makes it fast to get loaded and off riding. I will not wear a backpack or a messenger bag, but I'd be happy to modify something so I can use it as a pannier. I've got analysis paralysis so I'm reaching out for recommendations on what to use.

On vibration: I have one SSD and one standard hard disk. When I bought replacement disks, the new ones were thinner than the old, so I used some spare foam (static safe black foam for packing electronics in) to keep the drives in place. As such the drives actually have some cushion just for themselves).


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I'm looking to swap out shorter cranks on my bike. It's this bike, but of note has a SRAM PF30 bottom bracket and SRAM Force eTap AXS, 48/35 chainset.
I'm trying to work out if these will be compatible. They look the same, and I can see DUB on my bike, but I'm really struggling to find a definitive source that says they are compatible. Can anyone answer or at least say what needs to be matched?
My second question is does anyone know how involved switching these will be? All LBSs are booked for months so was planning to attempt myself but is still advisable for a relative novice? As far as I can see I'll need a torque wrench up to 50nm(I've already got a smaller one) but again, I'm struggling to find material on how to go about this from start to finish. Any advice would be appreciated - the best I could do was how to install a spider power meter which does involve taking the crank off the spider.
Thanks in advance!


texts: I found an old Peugeot bike, can this variant be restored ?, does is real chromoly or is it a kind of steel.


texts: Flat handlebar caliper brake compatibility

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I am trying to convert my flat bar bike to drop bar. I have bought STI's but I also want to use additional brake levers(like cyclocross bikes, flat bar levers) as well.

I may be wrong but cable pull ratio of caliper brakes(which I am going to install on my bike) must be different so I think I can't use my old levers with caliper brakes. This is my first question, V brake levers can be used with calipers?(I think no)

Now I am looking for a suitable brake lever. But how can I understand if I can combine them with STI's and caliper brake? Do they have a name like "Flat bar road brake system"? I have taken a look to some bike stores on web, they only tag "v brakes" and "road brake shifters".


texts: What is the effect of changing length of crank arms?

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There are some length options for the crank arms - like 170mm, 175mm.
What is the difference for the rider? In which way does it effect the commute?

Tried looking at Selecting the right crank length, didn't get a comprehensive answer.


texts: What size innertube for 35mm tires? (or: get innertubes on the big side or small side?)

texts: If you had 35mm tires (Schwalbe marathon supremes to be specific) would you get innertubes speced as 28-35mm or 35-42mm? Or whichever is cheaper?


texts:
I have a pretty new bike (5 years) and just recently got all the transmission very rusty (https://imgur.com/a/AlCts9b). Several things happened:

· Degreased it thoroughly (probably too much)

· Lubricated the chain and cassette with wax lube (brand: squirt). I've read that regular lube protects the chain from rust but I don't know about this one, couldn't find a thing.

· Did a 7-day trip with the bike leaving it most days outside, so it got exposed to some humidity but I had no option of leaving it inside.

if someone knows which one is the most probable culprit it would be helpful so I don't make the same mistake twice.

Now that it's rusty though I'm unsure about what to do. I tried to clean the rust without dissassembling the whole drivetrain but it wasn't very effective. Should I dissassemble everything and try to get the rust out or just lube it instead of using wax and use it regularly?


texts: Fox Float CTD Evolution vs Fox Float CTD Performance

texts: What is the difference between Fox Float CTD Evolution and Fox Float CTD Performance? Except that one is most expensive and better? I mean real difference...


texts: What can I use for interior helmet padding?

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My bike helmet needs more padding on the inside.

Any suggestions of what to use?

I"m thinking double sided tape and some sort of neoprene or other cushiony material.


texts: Old Sears Simpson bike bottom bracket replacement

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Got the pedals out, but I'm struggling with both cups. I don't know which way the threading goes either.

The bike was made in Poland, pretty old. Anyone know what I could do? I have a flat-shaped spanner for the cups, but got almost no leverage so I can't turn it hard.


texts: Why does my front shifter take so much effort to get into 3rd?

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I'm trying to get my son's bike dialed in.  We bought it used and it's not quite right with respect to the front shifting.  I got the front derailleur stops adjusted properly so it limits at the right place when moved by hand.  I fought with the cable tension until it was able to shift into 1st and 3rd, but even so, it takes an incredible amount of force to push it into 3rd. Specifically, I push with my thumb and it clicks into 3rd at the shifter, but I need to push a little past to get it to actually shift. Pushing out of 2nd into 3rd, it resists strongly such that my thumb actually hurts from debugging this.  I don't think my 12 yo will be able to do it.  What might I have done wrong?
It's Shimano STX, thumb/finger shifter.


texts: What's causing soreness in front upper thigh?

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I took off about nine months from cycling, then took my Specialized Crossroads Elite (upright comfort bike) to the local bike shop to be tuned up. They replaced the shock seatpost which was slipping. Now I notice that when I start riding, the center of my upper thigh, right at the hip crease, becomes sore almost immediately. This seems to be worse if I bend forward. Do you think this is due to:

the new seatpost and seat adjustments?
simply being absent from cycling for so long? (I don't remember this feeling after previous long absences, though)
too much flexibility due to lots of hip opener stretches in yoga?

Is there something I should do? Adjust the bike somehow? Or just build my muscles up through more cycling?


texts: Adivce on what to do next with crunching / slipping gears

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About two weeks ago I took my bike to the local bike shop to get serviced. It was previously slipping gears under load and at the end I couldn't use the lowest gear going up hill it would just slip constantly.

I mentioned the crunching / slipping to the guy at the counter.

When I went to pick up my bike I was charge $170 bucks for two new set of brakes, replaced one bolt type thing which was apparantly shredded (called a cone or something along those lines) and to have all the gears properly set. I was also told that the rear derailleur arm was bent and this was straightened.

The bike only cost $100 from a reliable friend who only rode it ocassionally and the bike is 3 years old. So the service was comparitively costly compared to the cost of the whole bike.

In the past few days it has started slipping again under load which is what it was doing previously and it won't hold gear at all when in the very lowest 1 1 combination it always slips to 1 2. It is also very noisy when I sit in my average riding gear which is either in 4th or 5th in the rear gears. The crunching is slightly dangerous because it can happen taking off from traffic lights or when I put extra pressure on to leave an intersection / roundabout etc. when cars are waiting behind me.

The other thing is when I picked up my bike I asked about the slipping and the response was kind of like "ah, yeh, ah, that should be OK now" which sounded to me like they didn't take it for a significant ride after repairing.

On the other side, these guys are supposed to be reputable, they have been around for a few years and the bike is not a supermarket bike it was actually purchased in their shop and in their defence the bike worked and sounded like a dream when I took it out of the shop so it is possible they did take it for a test ride even if they didn't sound convincing when they said so.

I'm only an amateur so it is hard for me to describe what the problem is, it's like a split second crunch and it doesn't move down or up gear. Sometimes it feels like it is just slightly out of gear and then after riding for 2 minutes it will crunch for a second and then it will not crunch again unless I change to a different gear. Sometimes I can just sense that it isn't quite right and swith back and forward between gears. Although, when I look down at the rear gears it all looks settled even if it doesn't feel right.

I'm also not sure if it is the rear derailleur cogs where it is slipping or the gears, I have no idea because I can't visually spot it and can't tell exactly where the sensation is.

I would appreciate any advice on what my next steps should be?


texts:
Sometimes I want to ascend a steep (say, 50%) slope, where is impossible to ride and awkward to push/pull the bike.

I tried various ways of carrying the bike:

Lifting it just 10 cm above the ground - good for very short sections
Lifting it with one hand to shoulder height - good for short sections; the arm gets tired quicky
Holding it above my neck with two hands; the arms get numb quickly
Putting it on my backpack; the back starts to ache at random places, as if warped

I imagine the last idea, with resting the bike on the backpack, is the only usable one for long sections (say, 30-60 minutes walking). Am I right?

Which way can I secure my bike on my backpack, so the back ache (and supposedly damage) is minimized?

Update: I had a half-full 35-litre backpack at the day I had this problem. I am willing to fill my pack with light bulky stuff if needed, but I don't want a bigger pack: 35 L seems enough for maximal journeys I want to do; any bigger and it starts to be annoying.


texts:
I have a seatpost with spring suspension. Something like this one:
A friend of mine hit it with his leg while he was dismounting and broke it into two pieces. After putting it back, I noticed that the plastic piece that holds it together has a broken thread. The bike is about 1 month old, so it is still under warranty.

Should I leave it as it is and hope for the best, or should I go back to store and ask for a new one, alleging bad manufacture?

Also a plastic ring it is clearly to weak for that join should I just get a simple seatpost ?


texts: Loud "thunk" sound each time my shoes pass the 1 o'clock position with both shoes

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Folks, I need a hand. Does anyone know of a bike mechanic that can diagnose problems via FaceTime or another audio/video app?

I ride strictly indoors (I’m in Iraq) and there’s a knocking coming from the crank/BB area that I haven’t been able to fix.

Equipment: Cervelo S3 (rim), Sram BB30, Rotor 3D+ cranks, Rotor 54/42 oval rings, Sram eTap, Speedplay Zero stainless steal, NOT ceramic BB

Each time either shoe passes the top of the crank circle I get a good 'thunk' sound.  I can hear it and I can also feel it resonate in the carbon frame, no matter speed, RPM or watts.  My cleats are on tight, pedals on tight, I removed the cranks and reinstalled them to spec, bolt rings are tight.  I put my finger and turned both bearings using my finger tip.  Both bearings are still ultra smooth.

IDEAS?


texts: Dent in bearing cone, try to get a new one, or can I keep riding like this?

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So I opened my rearhub, because there was a lot of dirt in there after 4000 kilometers usage and I found that there is a little dent in the bearing cone. When I slide a bearing ball over that "dent" I can not feel it, also it is smaller than the image makes it look.

Should I try to get a replacement cone?


texts: Wheel Wobbles and Rubs on Brand New Bike?

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I just got a brand new bike and it came partially assembled in the box.
I don't have a whole lot of experience when it comes to working on or building bikes but I managed to put it together. theres a major problem though. The front wheel gets caught in the brake pads and rubs against the metal part (fork?) its attached to.

I don't get it. I followed all the instructions and I bolted it on good. I adjusted the brakes and that seemed to help somewhat. it started spinning more without really getting stopped but then I noticed that the wheel wobbles a bit when it spins.

Do you know what the problem is? did I do something wrong? or is the bike wheel defective? What should I do? I would really like to avoid sending it back mainly because it would be a big hassle and plus, the box it came in is pretty much destroyed. can I somehow fix this on my own?

I was thinking of just bringing it to a bike shop but I'm pretty low on funds and I'm not sure how much something like this would cost to fix.

All help is greatly appreciated Thanks.


texts: Are Osymetric chainring and power2max Classic power meter compatible?

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I'm thinking about trying the famous Osymetric chainrings, and I would like to use it with a power2max Classic power meter.

I just want to be sure that there are compatible? It's very difficult to have answers in bike shops because Osymetric chainrings are not that famous here (Montreal).

Any help would be appreciated.


texts: What is the widest tire that I can safely fit on a rim that measures 700x19.6 (outside)x14 (inside). It's got 25's on it now. I'd like to go up to 28.


texts: Why is my electric bike 'clanking' under load?

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I have a Giant Esprit Twist Power electric bike, which apart from not having nearly enough words in its name also has a problem related to the crank.

When I put a lot of load through the pedals there is a loud clanking sound, once per pedal-press. If, as I cycle, I press with just one foot (and just lightly follow-through with the other) then I get the noise once and then not again until I start pressing with the other foot. This suggests to me that the problem is related to something shifting position in response to the side of the bike on which the pedalling force occurs.

Curiously, although the noise is extremely pronounced, I don't think I can feel anything.

There is no play I can feel in the bottom bracket, and likewise the pedals seem to spin smoothly.

The torque-sensing chainset arrangement seems like a possible source for the noise, I'm just not sure how.

So I guess my questions are...

Can a bottom bracket bearing make this kind of noise without feeling rough or loose?
Does anyone have any advice to offer about this kind of torque plate?

Here is a picture of the dismantled torque-plate:

Thanks in advance!


texts: When cutting a 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" carbon steer tube, what is the maximum length you can leave outside the head tube and the stem clamp? Is there a maximum? How would you determine what the maximum steer tube length for you frame could be? Does it make a difference if the steerer is 1.5" on the bottom?


texts:
My Derailleur Hanger broke and I want to replace it. However, I couldn't find any information about my bike or model or what kind of hanger I need to buy. The brand is Esperia and model name is Aria.

Here is the photo of the broken hanger:

I even tried calling the seller, they said they can't help me with that since they are just resellers.

So, I tried to check the bike to see if I can find anything helpful and I saw that speed gear was Shimano RD-2300. Is the hanger special to this Shimano model, If no how can I find the correct hanger for my bike?


texts: Can I install a front derailleur for my bike?

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I just bought a Micargi RD-7 with 7 speed Shimano Tourney rear derailleur. Now, I want to upgrade my crankset from single chainring to three chainrings for better hill climbing. Is it possible to do that? what front derailleur and crankset should I buy?

Shifters          :  Shimano SL-RS35-7R/LN 3x7 Speed
Rear derailler    :  Shimano RD-TX35  , 7-Speed
Chain                 :KMC 1/2"x3/32


texts: May sound like a dumb question bit here goes. Is it possible to run a 68/83 hollowtech crankset on a frame designed for 68/73? I can see the crankset fitting without issue as the crank axle is the correct width but the issue would be chain line after fitting. I know FSA produce crank axle spacers for my crankset (gravity MegaExo) but I can't see this helping chain line other then stopping the crankset having lateral movement. My build is a 2009 kona four deluxe with a 1x8 drive train currently setup with sram x4...but I've broken my crankset so if possible I'd like to use the one I have (gravity MegaExo 83mm) rather then fork out more money at the moment. Is there a way I can do this?


texts:
I strongly suspect there's creaking coming from my pressfit BB on a road bike.

What I don't know is whether the pressfit BBs is reuseable, so once I remove and regrease the whole thing in there, can I use the same BB again and put it in?


texts: New rear wheel compatibility with existing cassette

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I need to replace my rear wheel and have a few questions on component compatibility before I make a purchase.
My bike is a Specialized 2018 Rockhopper Pro; the link gives its stock components/spec.
I have modified it to run 1x11. (Probably) relevant specs:

Rear hub: Shimano Center Lock, disc, 135x9mm QR, 28h
1x11 setup with SunRace 11 speed cassette 11-46

Now, for new wheel choices I have considered the following two:

Shimano | Mavic - Deore XT FH-M8000 | XM 119 - 28 / 29 Inch Rear Wheel - Centerlock - QR
Shimano WH-MT500 29" 5/135 mm

Aside from the obvious - 29", QR, centerlock - what else do I need to be aware of in terms of compatibility? I'm unsure whether the two wheels will fit my bike. How can I tell if my cassette, for example, will fit onto the hub of the wheel?


texts: So I have bought a bike but the easiest gear on the cassette is a 30 tooth and the derailleur is a short cage derailleur, the chain keeps falling off this gear and back to the next easiest gear, is this the limit screws and if so which one, or is it the short derailleur and if so should I get a derailleur hanger extender?


texts:
Has anyone used Pirelli Cinturato velo tubeless setup on DT Swiss R500 rims (I'm thinking the 35C version)? Or maybe other DT rims with similar profile, and if so, how does it work? I'm a little concerned as these rims don't have the typical "double hook" profile as some other tubeless rims have.
Here is an image of the rims, the left one is the Vision Tubeless rim, with bigger hooks on the sidewalls and bumps on the base.
The right one is the DT R500 in question, it has much smaller hooks and no bumps, still is a tubeless rim.

Thanks for any insight!


texts: I don't know what year my old bike is.(like is it a 1970's etc). I think it may be a 1970's, or something like that due to research but I'm still not sure. I know it's a French old make, I believe Ravenna. But what year is this bike?


texts: mixed MTB/road bike for touring: uncleanliness of a Frankenstein setup

texts:
It appears that there are similar threads, so I'll reformulate it with more specific questions and taking the cue from comments.

I am assembling my brand-new touring bike on a LHT frame, and I'd like to make STI shifters work on it. My setup at the moment is

shifters shimano 105 STI
crankset shimano LX 48-36-26
cassette+chain 10 speeds shimano XT

Apparently to make STI work with rear MTB derailleurs, one needs to take the 9 speed RD, since new 10 speeds have different pull ratio. What concerns me most, at the moment, is the dirtiness that comes from the choice:

using a 10s chain on a 9s rear derailleur, due to different thickness
using a road FD (e.g. shimano 105 triple) with a MTB RD and with a 48-36-26 crank
other issues that you will suggest

do you think it would affect shifting smoothness and durability of the setup to use this kind of melting-pot solution?

bonus question: on this compatibility reference, are you aware of any difference between shimano SHADOW XT RD and normal XT RD?

bonus solution: I am not a STI religious, so if issues are real I might shift to barends to make a fast and long lasting fix. Anyway, I'd like to stay on brifters if problems are not that significant.

thanks a lot!


texts: Can I use a 3x10 or 2x11 front derailleur on a 3x11 drivetrain?

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I recently started changing the drivetrain on my Trail 6 (2020) and I wanted to jump to 3x11 from the 2x9 mixed Altus/Alivio it came as stock. My mistake was not paying attention to the type of pull my frame was built for, for the front derailleur: it's bottom pull.
I have all the components installed on the frame: 3x11 22-30-40 XT crankset, 22-40 11spd sprocket, 11spd XT chain with 138 links and 3x11 SLX Shifters. But the front derailleur had front pull which, sadly, cannot be used on the bike's frame. For the moment, I'm using the default 2/3x9 Altus front derailleur but, as you may assume, it's kinda bad (25% of the ratios cannot be used due to excessive chain rubbing and whatnot).
After extensive search, I've realized that there are no 3x11 front derailleurs with bottom or dual pull... only 2x11 or 3x10. Since i`m not gonna return the drivetrain (I've tested it for 2 days and it started showing signs of wear/tear, as is normal), my question is: can I reliably (or semi-reliably) use a 2x11 or 3x10 front derailleur with a 3x11 transmission? If yes, which of the two is more recommended?


texts: Wahoo KICKR Core Smart Turbo Trainer and Giant CONTEND 1 2017 - Cassette options

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I would like know which Cassette should I get for the Wahoo KICKR Core Smart Turbo Trainer
I own this cycle: Giant CONTEND 1 2017 - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/contend-1-2017
It has a Rear Derailleur Shimano Sora. I first thought of getting the 11 Speed Cassette, but I believe this won’t compatible with the cycle due to the Rear Derailleur. Instead, I believe I should get the same Cassette as on my existing bike (SRAM PG 950 11x32)

Let me know what are my options when it comes to Cassette?
Will a 11 Speed Cassette work with existing Rear Derailleur Shimano Sora?


texts: Can a beginner cyclist commute ~40km (round trip) to school/work by bike?

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I know this kind of question has been asked several times here (I've read those already), but I'm still uncertain and I have a few other questions.

I hardly ride bicycles. I've gone night cycling for 5+ hours before (not sure what distance that translates to) and I don't remember it being especially difficult except that it was pretty uncomfortable for my butt, and I've read that people actually do travel 20km to work daily, so distance itself shouldn't be a problem right? And feasibly how long would it take to bike that distance for the commuter-level people?

However,

I live in Singapore, so it's extremely hot and humid. I'm not sure if this is pertinent at all but I'm wondering if it makes cycling long distances unbearable
Although we have bicycle roads scattered around the country, it isn't a cyclist-friendly place. I'm aware drivers here detest it when cyclists cycle on the road, and to add to that I'm not confident about cycling on the road either. I'd much rather cycle on the pedestrian path but I heard it's rude to, or is it okay as long as you maintain a respectful speed and not get in the way of pedestrians?
Since each commute is around 20km, if I'm not wrong a road bike would be better, but I'm more inclined towards city/cruiser bikes because of their appearance. This may seem like a bad reason but if it's only going to be a bit more uncomfortable then I'm willing to suffer that. Will Creme or Linus bicycles suffice? Like Creme's Molly series. If they're not good enough, are there any decent road bikes that look like that?
Bike theft here is common enough for it to be a concern for me. Since I'm probably going to be leaving my bike unattended for several hours (may be up to half a day), if I use hardened steel bike locks and U-locks will my bike be safe? I'll be parking it in my university but I'm not sure if that is going to deter bike thieves at all. From what I've read online bicycles are stolen so much it almost sounds inevitable, and I really don't want to experience that. Also, handcuffs are illegal in my country so the Master Lock street cuffs probably are too- are there single cuffs for the bike wheels and are they reliable? They seem pretty sturdy to me.

Just in case anyone wants to know, I'm considering a bike because travelling the same 20km by public transport takes 1.5h and requires me changing buses/trains several times, which is too much hassle.

Thanks!


texts: How to adjust Shimano hydraulic brakes contact point?

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The title might be wrong, I am not familiar with the terminology here.

I just got a BR-M445L front hydraulic brake. Installed it - this stuff is MUCH easier to install than a cable disc brake.

Now my problem is that in order to apply maximum braking force, the lever has to be pulled all the way to the handlebars.

I discovered the reach adjustment screw on the lever. With this screw, I moved the "at rest" position of the lever further from the handlebars. Thus, the situation is somewhat better now.

However, what I would want to do, is leave the lever not too far from the handlebar, and remove the "free travel" - the part of the lever's path, during which the pads do not contact the disc at all.

In other words, I would like to have 2-3 cm of travel of the lever, instead of 5-6.

There are a couple of screws on the calliper, but I am scared to touch them, before knowing what I am doing. One is on the entrance of the hose, similar to a cable brake adjustment screw. The other is at the base of a small opening, covered with a cap.


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This is a picture of 2011 scott contessa 60:

Is this some kind of disk brake mount? If yes - what type is it? I've got an avid bb7 (mtn) caliper and it'd be nice to install it here.