texts: Converting my old mountain bike to a cyclocross

texts: I have a 1992 Bridgestone MB-4 that I am converting to a cyclocross bike.  It is a 3 x 7 (21 gears).  I am going to put down bars on it and to change the older over shifters and brake levers.  As it is an old bike, I am looking to keep the cost down on parts.  Does anyone have a recommendation of combined brake/shift levers that will work with 3 x 7?  I have Deore XT rear and front derailleur. Any other suggestions/recommendations for this conversion are also welcome.


texts:
My new bike has disc brakes, and the front brake leaves something to be desired. I want to upgrade to a 180mm front rotor. Do I need to change any components besides the disc itself and an adapter for the caliper? Also, which adapter would I need? I currently have a 160mm 6-bolt disc installed, and the caliper is mounted on a 160mm post mount.

The fork in question:


texts: Are bicycles with wide tires bad for road racing?

texts: I have Schnell Damping 26, which is a mountain bike with front and rear suspension. Some people suggest me that thick tire bikes are not good for road racing. What is the reason? Also, some suggest that back rear suspension is not good and causes a lot of sweat.


texts: Convert fixed side of flip flop hub to freewheel

texts:
I have a flip flop hub and I'd like to convert the fixed side to be free wheel. Is this possible? If so how much might it cost?

My motivation for this is that:

I never ride fixie
I'm running a 46/16 and would like to have a lower gear ratio (46/17 or
46/18). It would be really nice if I could keep the 46/16 and just flip the hub to have a different gear ratio.


texts: Ultegra 2X cranks with M8000 group and 11-42t cassette?

texts: Will an Ultegra 50/34 front crankset work with a Shimano XT M8000 Shadow+ 11 Speed Rear derailleur and 11-42t cassette?


texts:
It seems to me that SRAM used not rivet to hold all the cogs in one place, but long screw. This screw looks like a hex one, but I tried hex keys I have and I didn't find a match. Unfortunately the head is so small I cannot be sure it is hex in the first place (and not for example pentagonal).

So my question is am I correct with the "screw lead"? If yes, is it a hex one indeed? And what size?

I am asking to avoid drilling it through. Screw is always nicer to work with also because I can screw it back.


texts: My cassette model name doesn't seem to fit the actual cassette description.. (CS-HG50-9 and CS-HG500-10)

texts:
I have a Ridley Fenix classic bicycle that I bought second hand online.
(all components are Shimano Tiagra)

A year has passed and I figured I should really change the chain and cassette altogether. I didn't want to buy all the parts from the LBS since they're really overpriced so I decided to check the model name and just buy it online.

The first really weird thing I noticed was that the model name was CS-HG-9 but I had ten gears on the cassette.

Here's a photo:

I thought this didn't really matter if I just bought a 9 speed cassette instead but then I saw that it's not recommended to put a 9 speed cassette if I have a 10 speed shifter.

The current cassette (which works well for me) is 12-28T and I found a CS-HG500-10 cassette online which is 10 speed 12-28T cassette (seems perfect for me).

My questions:

Will the CS-HG500-10 fit without any issues (with an HG 10 speed chain)?
I wasted time and money because of the incorrect model name, is it really incorrect or am I just confused?


texts: New tubeless setup: losing air through spoke holes

texts:
It's my first time setting up tubeless. The tyre seems to have seated fine, but I'm losing air through three of the spoke holes when I go much above 20 psi. Details:

new rim, new tyre (new bike in fact)
29" DT Swiss M 1900 Spline - tubeless ready
2.3" Minion DHF - tubeless ready

I've added more sealant (must be getting near 200ml now) and shaken it about, concentrating on the leaking areas; air has stopped leaking but that might be the loss of pressure - down to 10-15 psi I think. Will leave it to sit overnight at the lower pressure and see what happens in the morning when I add air.
But in my limited reading so far I haven't seen this specific problem mentioned. Wondering if I'm wasting my time trying to seal this, and instead have a problem with the rim tape or even a defective rim?
EDIT: just for clarity - it's a tubeless-ready rim, factory taped, which I'd have hoped would rule out any errors of tape selection or technique.


texts: How easy are "brifters" (e.g. Shimano Total Integration or Campagnolo ErgoPower) to maintain and adjust as a hobby cyclist at home?-- Although quite a lot of road bikes have them (including even light touring-oriented/adventure bikes such as the Salsa Vaya or Genesis Croix de Fer 10), I have often heard even from competitive cyclists that they are extremely fussy and hard to keep working optimally. How true is this?-- I keep hearing that, for example, long-distance tourers and others focused on dependability avoid them due to their apparent fickleness and complexity. However, are brifters really that unreliable, or are these people just in the "tail" of the distribution of cyclists, those who cannot afford failure in even the rarest of cases?


texts:
I have a Giant Warp DS3 and id like to get a rear rack but am struggling to find anything decent & compatible.
is there such a rack?

2001 Giant Warp DS3 from Bicycle Blue Book.


texts: Straight 1⅛" steering tube is not actually straight?

texts:
I have a bike (~2016 year of manufacturing) with a fork which has what is called a straight 1⅛" steering tube, used with threadless headsets.
I have always thought that, compared to tapered 1⅛ – 1½ steerers, the straight meant the same diameter all the way down from the top. A strictly cylindrical piece of tube that is.
However, at the latest overhaul I measured the diameters of the steering tube at different positions. Closer to the top of the tube it was 28.6 mm or 1⅛ inch as expected. However, at the crown race it was 30 mm.
Studying the documentation to the bicycle confirmed my measurements, as the lower headset cup was listed as EC 44/30, which means 30 mm internal diameter of the bearing to match the steerer. The fork is still called as "straight steerer" by the vendor.
The fact is, my "straight 1⅛ fork" is slightly but still tapered at the crown. This poses a few questions in terms of (in)compatibility.
Are all straight 1⅛" steerer forks actually tapered to be 30 mm at the bottom? Are/were there forks with truly cylindrical tube with 28.6 mm all the way down?


texts: 1953 Marum Cycle Company 15" Interested in any info and importance of this bike

texts: Why can't I find this bicycle or anything on the company that makes it? The tube cover says Special'53. It has rod brakes, leather spring seat and KING HOMERUN TYRES that have fossilized to the rims.  Seat tube measures 15"  The tubes were still partially wrapped with brown paper. . I want to sell it but I have no idea where it's from.  Any info would be a great help.


texts:
I'm 6'6" but have very short arms for my height. Many guys 6'0"-6'2" will outreach me if standing flat footed.

I have an XL frame, 2014 Raleigh Talus 29er comp. I feel great on it, but I feel like I'm constantly 'reaching' forward for the handlebars when just sitting and pedalling around the neighborhood.

What are some things I can do to be more comfortable on my frame? Do I need to raise my handlebars higher, or get a shorter stem??

Thanks from an awkwardly built guy! haha


texts: Shimano GRX Left 2X lever with dropper post

texts:
Has anyone run a dropper post with the GRX 2X left lever? Intuition tells me it won't work since it'll click into the next "gear" and get stuck there, without being able to return.
I can get by for now with a solid post, but would like to know if a dropper has a future with my current GRX 2X left lever.


texts: top tube adapter for hitch mount carrier

texts: I recently bought a Trek Navigator 1. I just installed a hitch and a Allen 2 bike rack. BUT the Trek has a verry angled top tube. so the front tire is only a couple of inches off the ground. Would a Yakima or other brand tube adapter work on the Trek? Which is stronger or rather snugger fitting?  Thanks in advance


texts:
What is the difference between Shimano TZ50 and Shimano RD-FT55-SS?

Shimano RD-FT55-SS

Shimano TZ50

I understand, that both of them a very basic.
(But it's the only options for rear derraliuer with reverse hanger.)


texts:
Over the week-end my bike suffered a bike crash while on a roof-top rack. On a whim, the driver decided to go through an underground parking lot, everything happened so fast, I did not have time to stop him. Anyway, what happened happened. Two cervélo R3 got caught in a chain, and both bike fell off the rack, breaking the rack and some bike components, e.g. shifters, wheels and forks.

Here are some pictures of the damage on the bikes: images

We brought the bikes at our local bike shop, also a cervélo dealer. Their verdict was that my bike only needed minor repairs such as changing one shifter whereas the other bike has a cracked frame and would need a new frame.

Here is where I would like you opinion, since both bikes where involved in similar tensions and impacts, I do not feel comfortable keeping the frame. The specialist at the bike shop assured me it was "ok", although I am not sure he would go downhill at 80 km/h on it. Since my personal insurance is covering the cost, can I suggest that the frame be changed?


texts: Is cantilever rear cable hanger supposed to move?

texts:
The question is somewhat related to this one.

I have cantilever brakes with this rear Tektro hanger (but the hanger itself instaled downwards):

The problem is, when I brake the hanger rotates, which causes too much play, and the STI brake shifter almost hits the handlebar. If I adjust the cable by tensing, the pads scratch the rim.

Should the rear hanger rotate? How can I adjust the system to remove the free play caused by the hanger?


texts: Adding lower gears to a nine speed Ultegra road bike with triple ring

texts: My wife has a road bike with an Ultegra triple crank and a nine speed Ultegra 13/30 cassette. She needs a lower gear. Can the derailleur handle a larger rear sprocket? Ho large?


texts: Is it possible to mount a disk brake hub to a rim-brake rim?

texts:
Suppose I have a disk-compatible hub and frame, but want build a wheel based around a very specific touring rim, which is labelled as being for rim brakes.

My understanding is that you cannot attach a rim brake to a disk-compatible rim, since the sidewalls are not designed to withstand the stresses. However, it is not obvious to me whether there would be any problem attaching a disk brake to a wheel with a non-disk rim (assuming that it's been built around a disk-compatible hub, and is attached to a disk-compatible frame).

Is there some problem with this configuration? The obvious drawback would be carrying around the extra weight of a reinforced rim, but that doesn't seem to prevent the wheel from actually functioning.


texts: Freehub pawl system vs star ratchet system

texts:
If you were to choose between a Hope Pro 4 hub and a DT Swiss 350 or 240, purely based on their freehub types, ie Hope's pawl system or DT's ratchet system, which would you choose and why?

The main question is, which system is better, and why?

Just to be clear, these are the two types

Pawls System:

Ratchet System:


texts: Turbo training programs for long distance events

texts:
Can anyone suggest good turbo trainer workouts (or tell me what features are necessary) for training for a long distance cycling event (Vätternrundan ~300 km)?

I need to be fit enough to cycle that distance but also need to get my raw pace up because of a tough target time (8 hours requiring about 40 km/h [in a group of 28 riders]) - what sort of drills should I be doing (or what should I avoid) to increase stamina and power efficiently?


texts: Can you replace bottom bracket without removing chain or front derailleur?

texts:
Can you service (i.e. fully remove and replace) a Square Taper English Threaded Bottom Bracket without removing the chain and/or front derailleur? Ditto for other BB types if the answer varies by BB type.

Picturing it in my head, the drive side crank arm will take the chainrings and therefore chain with it as it is pulled, but the front derailleur wants to keep the chain where it is. If you manually pop the chain onto successively smaller rings, and then right off the smallest one as you pull the crank arm, then I think the chain will just hang off the derailleur, out of the way, giving you full access to the BB.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks.


texts: Why choose a traditional frame over an aerodynamically streamlined frame?

texts:
I'm not talking specifically about triathlon frames, just frames which have aerodynamically shaped tubes. As I understand it, both types of frame are legal for road-racing under UCI rules.

So, why would one choose a traditional frame with round or "squoval" tubes over an aero frame? For example, why would one choose to ride a Cervélo R5 with (more) traditionally shaped tubes over a Cervélo S5 which would seem to be more aerodynamically sound?

Does it boil down to personal preference, or are there specific conditions in which one out-performs the other?


texts: Which tires (and rear fender?) for Bianchi Metropoli Uno hybrid bike

texts:
I have a Bianchi Metropoli Uno XL (frame size 55cm). As you can tell from the attached pictures, the back tire (37-622/700x35C) needs replacement (at least I would say so as the profile is barely visible anymore).

I use my bike mostly for commuting. My way to work is just under 20 km, with a third on flat gravel roads and the rest on asphalt. I cycle all around the year, except if there is snow.

Would you have any advice for me? There seems to be a rather large choice. Among this list, would you have any recommendations (e.g. the Schwalbe Energizer Plus)? Can I eventually use the same tire also for the front wheel (which I think is less urgent to replace)?

PS. As you can see on the pictures, my back fender is broken. Would anyone know of a compatible spare part?

[


texts: Can I enter an enduro race on a hardtail mountain bike?

texts:
I really like the idea of enduro racing but I cant currently afford an enduro specific bike.
Is it acceptable to enter an enduro event on an aggressive XC/trail hardtail mountain bike? Are there any rules against it or would it not be recommended due to the terrain?


texts:
I'm trying to ID an older road bike, I think perhaps 80's but not really sure. I can't seem to find much info about even the brand itself - National Sports Wheels (Passaic, NJ) (Made In Taiwan)

Searching that brand just brings ups a few results for some older BMX bikes, nothing road bike at all. Also the frame has a sticker saying '12 Speed' but is actually a 10 speed - not sure if that sticker was added by someone or if the gears were changed. Serial number on the bottom bracker is S885278

Whole Bike:
https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kjIV.jpg

Brand Sticker:
http://i.stack.imgur.com/mH6dV.jpg

I've had this in my shed for quite some time and its a hand me down, so no idea about the original owner or anything like that. I'm starting riding again so planning on refinishing the frame and maybe rebuilding with some modern components, but really curious that I can't find anything on the brand.


texts: I can't figure the seatpost clamp on my bicycle (maybe it's stuck?). I've had it for a few months, it's quite old. I hit a bump in the street and the force lowered the seat but now I can't figure out how to open/loosen the lever. I thought it was a standard quick release but it does not seem so.


texts:
I've got a chest mount for my camera (sony hdr-as15, if it's important). I went on a race last Sunday - it was like +15-17 Celsius. After about an hour of riding I've noticed that the case is all foggy and the picture turned from this
 into this:
So, what can be done to prevent this?


texts: Do merino wool base layers need to be skin tight?

texts:
I have bought a Merino wool base layer for all the obvious reasons, they're raved about and have been sworn by by many a rider, and I was getting not only chilly in the winter weather but also wearing a cotton t-shirt and getting caught in the rain caused it to very quickly go cold, damp and heavy.

So I bought small and medium and settled for the small but even that is quite loose on me and a baggy fit. It certainly keeps me warm, no complaints there, but then I very quickly get too warm. They're supposed to be magic - keep you warm in winter and cool in the heat - but if it can't stop me from overheating when its cold outside, I struggle to believe it being any better in the summer.

My theory is that it needs to be a skin fit in order to achieve its wicking capabilities, and because it's loose, it isn't able to wick the heat direct from my skin, but rather heats up the air between my skin and the base layer causing a reserve of hot air which keeps getting hotter and thus causing my own mini personal sauna effect.

Am I right or totally wrong? I don't mind being wrong, but just want to understand the reasons I seem to be too hot and what I can do to resolve it.

I am also wearing a waterproof jacket over it which isn't very breathable. This could just as much be the problem, but I don't want to leave the jacket in case it rains as I don't know how Merino wool base layers - especially when baggy - cope when wet? (Another question maybe?)

Thanks.


texts:
My goal is to cobble together a 1x10 groupset using some Shimano 105 5700 shifters.

From what I have read, I think that these components will work together, but I want to be sure before purchasing:

Shimano 105 5700 10 speed shifters
Shimano GRX RD-RX400 10 speed rear derailleur
Shimano Deore HG50 10 speed cassette 11-36
Shimano Deore T610 10 speed rear hub

I will be in a 1x configuration, so no front mech is required.

Will this mix of Shimano 10 speed components work together?


texts:
I am completely new to the concept of belt drives and, when doing some initial research, the Wikipedia article on belt-driven bikes says that they have the disadvantage of

  Problems in snowy conditions (up to complete inoperability in some
  cases).

Has anyone had any experience with snowy commutes on a belt-driven bike supporting or refuting this claim?


texts: Is there an optimal postion for SPD cleats?

texts:
I bought some SPD clipless pedals and shoes at the beginning of the season, and I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of them.  There is quite a bit of distance I can move the cleat forwards and backwards on the shoe.

Is there an optimal position for the cleat?
Are there certain positions better suited towards hill climbing or riding mostly on flat land?
Should I just try a bunch of different positions and see which is most comfortable for me?

A lot of questions I guess, just looking for general recommendations on placement.  The cleat is currently in the middle, and I don't have any real "problems" with them, like pain or fatigue, I'm just wondering if my setup is optimal.


texts: Increasing length of seatpost on a foldable bike

texts:
One of my bike is this little Dohiker 14" electric bike, but I actually pedal a lot when riding it, and the seatpost is a bit too short. It is about 50cm long, and I would need a few more centimeters. I'm already exceeding a bit the minimum insertion length, but it's not sufficient. Also, such long seatposts apply a lot of force on the frame because of the leverage, so I really have to insert a safe length of seatpost in the frame.

Problem: the diameter is a quite uncommon 30.4mm, and such long seatpost is also uncommon. I searched everywhere for a 30.4mm × 550~600mm seatpost, without success...

So far, after already a lot of research, my best (and only) solution would be to use these two parts:

This 30.4mm → 27.2mm adapter (I'm considering this model because it's 10cm long, whereas other models are 8cm or 6cm long only…)
This 27.2mm × 600mm seatpost (I think it's initially intended for BMX)

Do you think this solution is acceptable? Do you have better proposals?

(and extra kudos if you find a similar seatpost (27.2mm × 600mm, color black), but without any branding on it :)


texts: Derailleur can't shift to 51-T sprocket. Deore CS-M5100 + RD-M5100

texts:
ISSUE:
When attempting to shift to the largest cassette sprocket, the side of the derailleur cage contacts the 51t sprocket, so the chain is not able to go up the gear.
WHAT I DID:
My drivetrain was in need of a replacement, so I decided to change to a 1x11 (from my original 2x11 CANYON Neuron AL 6.9 2017).

I replaced my SLX M7000, 11x42 tooth, 11-speed cassette with the Deore CS-M5100-11, 11x51 tooth.
Replaced my Deore XT Shadow derailleur with the Deore RD-M5100-SGS.
I also changed my chain and chainring, but that irrelevant for now.

ELABORATION:

The stopper plate properly contacts the B-tension stop on the derailleur hanger.
The limit screws are adjusted (so far as possible)
Shortened the new chain to zero point + 4 links + quick link
The B-screw is maxed, all the way screwed against the stop to push the derailleur back.
If I would pull the chain (making the effect if it would be shorter) the cage gets pulled to the front of the bike and clearing the 51t sprocket. Albeit, just. So shortening the chain is not the option, seems to me.

UPDATE:
I contacted Canyon, with my question if I might need another derailleur hanger/pad. They said this is the correct 11-speed hanger.
Manual RD-M5100-SGS

Not enough space between top of cage and 51T sprocket

Can't reach 51t, left side of the cage is touching the sprocket

Chain on the 10th sprocket

Chain on the smallest 11T sprocket, if the chain would be longer then there is no tension

In all promotional material, the derailleur hanger seems to be quite a bit more downwards and not to the back (unlike my derailleur hanger/pad)

Stopper plate in correct place between derailleur pad/hanger and B-screw.  B-screw is also maxed inwards.

current hanger


texts: Difference between two drivetrains with the same gear ratio?

texts:
Given two identical, fixed-gear bicycles, one with a 36/12 gear combination and another with 48/16, will there be any noticeable difference when pedaling these two bicycles?  I understand there may be some negligible differences due to differing amounts of chain wrap on the cogs, etc.

I have a friend who alleges that, despite those bikes having identical gear ratios, the 48T chainring will be "better" for a rider preferring a lower cadence and the 36T chainring will be "better" for a rider preferring a higher one.  I've attempted to explain to him that this would require the bikes to somehow have differing amounts of development per pedal rotation, which they do not as I have tried to demonstrate here: http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=SGLS&KB=36&RZ=12&UF=2240&TF=90&SL=2.6&UN=KMH&GR2=SGLS&KB2=48&RZ2=16&UF2=2240

Please help me win this argument!


texts: Is the Shimano 2303 crank arm and the 2300 crank arm the same?

texts:
I bought a Shimano 2303 crankset (52/42/34 triple) by mistake although I should have bought a 2300 crank

If I remove the inner 34t, will it have the same structure as 2300 crank? By structure I mean things like chain line.

According to the Shimano manual, 2300 should use 110mm B.B. and 2303 113mm B.B. while the chain line is 43.5mm(2300) and 45mm(2303).

After the separation of the smallest chainring, if I use a 110mm square bottom bracket, would I have 43.5mm chain line?

I'm worried because I'm using a road front derailleur and a road STI lever.


texts: Problem with caliper brakes of Pure Fix Original Series

texts:
I bought a new bicycle about a month ago (this bicycle) and I have been having problems with the brakes. When I brake, it sounds as if metal is rubbing against metal. I went back to the shop a couple of times, they adjusted the brakes a little bit and told me that everything is fine. After a couple of days the problem reoccured. Here is a photo of the brake pad:

It looks like tiny pieces of metal are stuck in the brake pad. And here is a photo of the rim:

The rim looks like it chips a little bit or maybe is scratched. I see two options here: (1) I caught some debris from the road (2) The brake pads or/and rims are defective. I ride in relatively clean but dusty environment. Could this be caused by debris on the road? Could this be caused by defective brake pads? How could I solve this problem?

Any help is much appreciated!


texts: How to remove and find a compatible chainring for my FSA Comet 1x10

texts:
I currently have a 30 tooth chainring on my Devinci Kobain.  The gearing is a little too tough for my current fitness level.  I am considering putting a smaller chainring on it (as per this question).

I would like to know two things:

What is the procedure to change the chainring?  I watched the Park tools video on Crank Type Identification but was unable to tell what kind of crank I have.
When looking for a chainring how do I tell if it is compatable with my bike?

Relevant Info

Info on my drive train from Devinci's site:

Crankset: FSA COMET MEGA EXO B148 30T
Cassette: SHIMANO 10S 11-36T
Chain:    SHIMANO 10S

Images of my crankset:

Model Number:

Right-hand side:


texts: How to tell if Hollowtech II bottom bracket cups are aligned?

texts:
I've heard all over about how important it is that you face a frame before installing a Hollowtech BB, as the cups not being aligned could be the difference between your BB lasting 1k and 10k miles.

Is there is any way of ascertaining how aligned the cups are on an installed unit?


texts: Are Shimano components compatible with each other? Do I have to get a specific chain?

texts:
My cycling maintenance experience goes as far as changing tyres, but winter has been cruel and I need to replace some components.

Setup:

Cassette is a Shimano 105 CS-5700
Front chainring : Shimano Ultegra SG-X 53B
Chain : Not sure, all I can see is "shimano","VIA", "HG","JG" on the
sides. It's at 0.5% stretch.

Can I just get any 10 speed chain, or do I have to get a 105 or ultegra chain? Does it matter if I have a mixture of 105/ultegra components?


texts: Nearly getting hit by reckless vehicles. What can be done?

texts:
Today I nearly got hit by a driver not paying attention:

I was stopped, waiting to turn right.  She was turning right off the
road. She did not indicate.
It was a quiet residential area, daylight.
The driver saw me around 1-2 seconds before stopping her car about 1/2 metre away from me by emergency stopping. The driver had dark shades, and looked like she was not paying attention when turning. I had to jump off my bike and run out of the way.
She exclaimed "Sorry, you were in my blindspot".
This is in England.

This is not the first time a driver has nearly hit me by reckless driving.

Id like the make the roads safer in general for all cyclists.

The questions:

What would happen to the driver if I had recorded this incident and reported it? Do I need video evidence? What is the official law? To me, a vehicle can be used as a weapon, and not paying attention could clearly be fatal.
How would these consequences for the driver make the roads safer for cyclists in general?
What actions are the government taking to make the roads safer for cyclists?

Thanks


texts:
I am contemplating purchasing an automatic gear hub, namely the SRAM Automatix. One of the criticisms leveled at this hub is that it shifts up too soon. The default settings can however be adjusted if know what you are doing, as this article explains:

http://mccraw.co.uk/sram-automatix-review/

Would using a smaller chairing on the crank-set have the same effect???

(I would rather do this than mess with the delicate innards of the hub axle).


texts: What bag should I buy first for my gravel-touring kind of bike?

texts:
I have bought a new bike, and I would like to start equipping it with bags, as I plan to do bicycle tours in the future. At the moment, however, I only do day tours, and I would like to buy a bag that would also serve me as a day pack. Basically, I would like it to be big enough to fit a couple of pieces of clothes, some snacks, my phone, and whatever else I might need for the day. I would like to have an easy access to all that stuff as well. What type of bags should I be looking at?

I was thinking about a handlebar bag, and was having a look at those. But I seem to come across three types of bags: 1. roll up bags with no easy access to contents 2. accessory bags that seem too small for my needs 3. large handlebar bags that seem to be more suited for city bikes. Is there a handle bar bag that could suite my needs? Or should I be looking at other types of bags?

My bike is a kind of gravel/touring type. It does not have a rack, but I think it is equipped with all the possible mounting points.

In case it makes a difference, here is a picture of it:


texts: Bike frame rusting immediately, cheap frame?

texts:
I've got this mountain bike, it's probably about 12 years old now, and it was sitting in the shed for years, in dry conditions. I recently decided to strip it down and I was going to respray it as it was rusted and peeling.

The thing is, I don't know what kind of metal the frame is made of, but it seems to be a total and absolute rust magnet. The paint had totally peeled off of a lot of it, and there was rust everywhere underneath about 60% of the frame. I used paint remover to remove the rest of the paint, and the next day all these "clean" parts had rusted as well!

I went at it again with wire brushes and sandpaper, and got most of the rust off, and came back the next day and it was rusted again! It seems to be (I'm assuming) rusted inside the frame too, there's, like little (air?) holes in several parts of the frame.

So, basically I'm wondering if it's even worth the bother to clean and respray it, will it just rust again?

Is it just some kind of cheap junk metal\frame? Should I just prime and spray it anyway, or will it just rust again in a few months, and all the paint fall off again?

The rest of the parts, while some were rusted initially, cleaned up just fine, and they've been sitting for a few weeks now with no signs of rusting again. So it's just the frame that's the problem.

Thoughts?

Edit:

Here's some photos.

I was using paint remover to remove the paint a few weeks ago, and about 50% the paint just fell off where it was rusted underneath, and the rest of it was really stuck on there. Everything that's not rust is the leftover grey paint. I was going to start priming it at this stage, and so I went at it with a wire brush and sandpaper last week and I had just about all the rust removed.

Then I was busy for a few days, and it was sitting in the kitchen, and I came back and it was like this. The rust on it is like a layer of dust and particles, that almost rub off on your hand if you touch it.

The second image is one of the holes in the frame. It's like the manufacturers put them there on purpose, but I don't know the reason. I can hear "stuff" in there if I shake the frame, I thought it might be sand if it was sandblasted..


texts: What are the bumpy parts around the spindle of some pedals?

texts:
Does anybody know what the bumpy part near the threads of this pedal are for? They look like they might fit a special wrench, but I can't find any that would fit.

I feel like I must be missing something, and that I've seen these bumps around, but never understood their purpose.


texts: Shimano GRX front derailleur compatibility

texts:
I'm planning to upgrade my existing Shimano road 11sp groupset with a GRX 46/30 crankset.
According to Shimano, this means I need to use the FD-RX810 front derailleur. Apparently the 10sp FD-RX400 won't work.
However, I can't see why not. One answer to this question suggests that the pull ratio should be identical, but doesn't go as far as explicitly stating that it'll work. Other than pull ratio, I cannot see any other issue.
The FD-RX810 is currently unavailable where I live (presumably due to Shimano's supply chain issues), so can I just buy an FD-RX400?


texts:
tThis was given to me from a family member that is no longer with us. I cannot for the life of me figure out the make/model.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers


texts: Why do I do the "saddle shuffle" when riding?

texts:
I was browsing some time trial videos on YouTube and came across a video on saddle shuffling, and I've been noticing that I do the same saddle shuffle a lot when riding hard.  Did not really know it was a problem until I saw a video about it.  Is this common among riders?  My seat is correctly positioned too and it's perfectly level. I wonder how common this is...

To anyone who can't see the video: The problem is that a rider will, over time, shuffle forward on the saddle as they ride, every so often pushing themselves back so they're squarely on the saddle.

Edit: About me:  I'm 5'6 about 145lb and ride a Specialized Allez Apex. I use clipless pedals and have received a BG Bike Fit. The bike size is a 52.  I would consider myself an aggresive rider.

Update: So I thought I would update you with some tweaks I've done so far. I went to my LBS and purchased a shorter stem so I'm not leaning forward as much. I also measured my seat and myself (sit bones) and it showed that my seat was too narrow, though, I have been measured before and have always been told the seat was good (my other two bikes were the same). I was suggested to try the Romin or Avatar saddles. The look of the Romin seems like it will keep me from moving forward as much. I plan on testing the seats out in a trainer and around town. Thanks for all the suggestions.


texts: Can I replace a 9spd freehub with a 7spd one?

texts:
On my commute this morning I established that my freehub needs replacing.  There's obviously something wrong with the ratchet mechanism, because it intermittently refuses to engage.

My existing setup is a Mavic Crossmax rear wheel (circa 1998) which originally hosted a 9spd cassette.  However I have been running it with a 4.5mm spacer and a 7spd cassette which has been working fine.

Can I replace the freehub with a 7spd one, or will that simply not work?  Is the wheel somehow dished specifically for the 9spd width?  Should I instead just buy another 9spd freehub and continue to use the 4.5mm spacer?

I did look on Sheldon's website, but couldn't find this exact scenario.


texts: What type of brake pads should I run on my Shimano RS80 C24 wheels?

texts:
I recently purchased a new (used) bike that has Shimano RS80 C24 wheels. The wheels say "carbon" on the side, though a couple of different sites indicate they feature a carbon and alloy laminate clincher rim that take "standard brake pads".  I'm not quite sure what they mean by "standard brake pads".

Should I be using carbon brake pads or something different on these?


texts: Pedals won't turn normally following strange noises

texts: My bike suddenly started creaking and squeaking very loud, and moreso the more pressure I put on the pedals. Then the pedals got stickier and harder to turn until I couldn't turn them at all. This was all in the space of 5 minutes. Cleaned the chain as it was a bit gunky, and I can turn the pedals with the bike upside down, but it's quite hard work. The chain's not overly tense anywhere as far as I can tell. The wheels turn fine.


texts: What is this aluminum plate that started rattling inside my Ksyrium rims?

texts:
During my last ride I noticed a rattle coming from the rear wheel at slow speeds.

I removed the wheel but shaking and rotating it did no good. After some head scratching I thought about inserting some plastic tubing inside it to isolate where the moving thing is. Turns out there is an aluminum plate that slides near where the rim is welded (see pic).

I drilled a small hole into the loose part, thinking that maybe I can pull it towards the nipple insertion hole (the large hole in the pic, sorry but that's the best I could focus) so I can drill it to pieces. But it won't budge past that point. Only thing I can do is lock it into place with polyurethane foam.

But what is it and why did it start moving now?

Edit: I contacted Mavic and they confirmed that it's a non-structural part that holds the ends together during welding. IMO polyurethane foam is the best bet as it will expand and hold it in place.

2nd edit: FWIW, Mavic replied again with suggestions for fixes. They recommended the center punch method or glue. The warned against using foam as it can create a "heavy spot" that causes wheel imbalance. IME foam is very light, way lighter that the valve stem anyway and it's guaranteed to work so I'll go this way.


texts:
So called cones are the the inner races in angular contact bearings in hubs. The outer races, usually simply called races, are usually integral to the hub and cannot be replaced.
Cones however are easy to replace, often one would simply get a new axle with cones and counter nuts included.
Apparently, it is quite common for cones to become pitted. Where the surface of a race is covered by a number of small depressions and in worse cases becomes rough and This may happen in a process like Brinelling where the hardened steel balls leave a small concave impression on the race or spalling where after an initial crack flakes from the surface are shed.*
Pitting is often encountered only on the cones while the outer races remain in good shape. Evidence for the frequency of this failure mode is that replacement cones are readily available, which also indicates demand.
Why is that so?
Is this perhaps coincidental due to load geometry? (Concave vs convex ball race interfaces.)
Or is this by design, for example by different hardness outer races > balls > cones?
*In case of insufficient lubrication and/or corrosion fretting may also lead to pitting.


texts: Can I use V brake levers for U brakes (side pull calipers)?

texts:
I accidently bought a V brake set instead of U brake set (side pull calipers) for an old bike I'm fixing.
I really like the levers and would like to keep them.

These are the levers I've bought:
XLC BL-V05 Disc Brake Lever for V-Brake

Are V brake levers in general comaptible with U brakes?


texts: Partially disassembling Sticky Shimano STI shifter for service

texts:
There are a few questions floating around regarding sticky STI shifters and the standard procedure seems to be to flush with a load of WD-40 and relube with aerosol grease or similar.

My set is Ultegra 6500 series.

Having tried this with with unsatisfactory results I think I need to take more drastic action. It is clear there is still significant grime and gummed-up grease in the mechanism (excerbated no doubt by long-term lack of name plate). I figured the best method would be to remove the shifter from the bike and give it a good submersion in degreaser.

My idea was to leave the body on the bars and just remove the lever, which incorporates the mechanism by removing the pivot pin and brake/gear cables. The tech docs show this process but I'm slightly scared of tiny pieces flying everywhere and being unable to reassemble. It also requires a "return spring installation tool" which I do not possess.

Has anyone had experience with this? How tricky is it for a reasonably technically inclined person? Would I be better off just removing the bar tape and taking off the whole unit?


texts:
I'm thinking of getting a shorter stem for my road bike. But I don't understand how they measure in terms of lenth and angle.
I measured it from center to center and it came up to 4.25 inches. I'm guessing this is the standard 110 mm stem?


texts: Why do my bicycle brakes get worse and feel more 'squishy" over time?

texts: My bike has disc brakes connected to the lever by cable. I've found I've been tightening the screw by the lever more and more to the point that there's not that much more room to tighten.


texts: Help with identifying the brand of a vintage bike

texts:
I've been trying to find out about the provenance of a vintage bike.

It is fitted with:

a USA Sturmey Archer 4 speed FW.63
Wagner Werdermann front hub
The brakes are Weinmann.
Cranks are Williams.

The wheel chain is either a triangle or a pine tree.

On the frame, there is a double ram horns

Wheels are 27x 1 1/4 or 32-630

And on the fork, there is a light bracket.

The plaque has been removed.
No markings anywhere visible.

It seems to be hand painted.

It looks better than in the pics.

Thank you for your help!


texts: Can Shimano Tiagra 9 speed levers (ST-4500) be used with 105 brakes (BR-5700)?

texts:
I want to replace the non-Shimano rear brake that came with my bike with either Shimano 105 (BR-5700) or Tiagra (BR-4600) brakes, preferably the 105 model. The Shimano compatiblity chart says the 10 speed Tiagra (ST-4600) levers are compatible but the bike has the older Tiagra ST-4500 levers.

Will the ST-4500 levers be able to work well with these newer brakes or do I have to trudge off to eBay and try to find older Shimano 105s?


texts: Why don't cyclists wear all-encompassing motorcycle-style helmets?

texts:
It is possible to get a helmet that covers your entire head and face, and in theory would protect you against more kinds of falls. In particular, Why don't bicyclists wear them, and why do motorcyclists wear them?

I'm not asking whether helmets are a good idea in general. (Please try to answer this with complete answers, rather than the single-point style of the currently running helmet thread.)


texts: Will the Garmin Edge Touring store an in progress ride if power is lost?

texts:
A rider is on a long ride, using a Garmin Edge Touring GPS unit and takes a break. If they wish to save battery on the Garmin, can they power it off and continue the same ride later?

I believe the Edge Touring is the same as the 810, with some features turned off.


texts:
My rear brake never locks the rear wheel even with full pull on the lever, especially going down hill or fast. I can even pedal a bit with the brake depressed.

This is a recent issue and sometime in a ride the full braking force returns for a couple of minutes.

My pads are in a very bad condition and I've have new ones on order. My question is if they can be the reason for my problem? The bike was bought used so I don't know its history.

Rear pads:

Front pads:

Front, no flash:

And the disc, which looks ok:


texts:
My question is: how to get most of minimum training?
The problem is that I have limited time during week and I cannot go out for an 1hour or longer trip and I do not want to ride after dark for safety concerns. However on the weekend I can devote as much as 6 hours in one block.

My goal is to ride 100miles(160km) in about 6 hours without too much trouble. I also want to be prepared for occasional 2-3 day trips with ~80mile days at a slower pace.

My data:

Age:33y, weight: 163lbs(74kg), height:6ft(1.83m)
Current speed: ~60miles(100km) in about 4h05min, breaks included. Last 20miles were rather painful.
Gear: old road bike, no power meter.:)

As for my present training I do random long rides on the weekend, until now they were no longer than 60miles. During the week I do 1 or 2 days of HIIT(Tabata regimen) on stationary bike. I also run about 25miles(40km) a week.

I believe I could do about 3 times 30min on stationary bike at most(boooring).
Should I go with HIIT for 3 or even 4 times per week like in Tabata's original study or should I mix in different types of intervals? But how long could I sustain that kind of training? Have anyone tried that in practice?
I also do not want it to hinder my running too much.

What kind of training would work best for me?


texts:
My bike was outside and it snowed. I thought it was ok because it was undercover but the tarp broke and now my bike is covered in snow.

I had 3 locks on it, 2 of them came off but one is frozen. I moved it inside now and am wondering what I should do?

I want to protect the bike from rust and corrosion. I'll start by knocking the snow off it, then wiping it down with a rag. I have a space heater that blows hot air I can point at it. Any parts in particular I should look out for, like cleaning the chain? It's a road bike.


texts: How much does wind affect the speed of a professional cycling peloton?

texts:
It's a well known fact that due to air resistance increase of speed on a bike takes non linear increase of power, so the huge marginal increase of power needed to go faster while riding at around 40-45km/h has made average top speeds of the peloton stay in this range for many years. I was wondering if the air drag plays such a major role why doesn't wind affect the average speeds more?

I'd imagine that given at these speeds air resistance is a major factor (it's almost like a wall if you look at the power curve) the cyclist relative 'airspeed' in the wind should also be a major factor but it doesn't look so judging from the single day race results like Milan-San Remo (which has constant almost straight route so should be strongly affected by the wind). You can see results here: http://www.bikeraceinfo.com/classics/Milan-San%20Remo/milan-san-remo-index.html. If I were to guess I'd expect that wind should make the differences on range of at least -/+10 km/h but clearly this is not the case (it's more like a 37-45km/h range). Why is that so?

(There was an incredibly interesting question here about the increase (or lack thereof) of avg speed of TdF winners over the years: Why aren't Tour de France riders going any faster? I understand that in multiday event the wind effects and tactics will cancel out but what about single stage races?)


texts: Where is the Shimano e-tube project light connection setting?

texts:
I'm trying to install some aftermarket hardwired lights to my eBike which is running a Shimano steps e5000 drive system (bike is a Reid urban+ ebike). I've verified that the lights work and are the correct voltage, however when I press the light button on the headunit nothing happens, no voltage on the light terminals, and no response from the display (usually would display a light icon and beep).
I've tracked the issue down to a setting that needs to be enabled in the e-tube project software called "light connection." (excerpt from e5000 manual below:)

So because I don't own the expensive linking device - I went and brought my bike to the local bike shop and asked them to just enable this setting. Unfortunately they've told me that they can't find this setting in the software - and it's near impossible to find a manual for the windows version of the e-tube project software (I've only been able to find this manual for the app version of e-tube project).
Does anyone know where to find this setting in the e-tube project software?


texts: Vintage Peugeot Bike Tire Recommendation

texts: I'm looking for a recommendation for the type and brand of tires to purchase for a vintage 70s "Sport 103" Peugeot.  For casual recreational usage.The original tires were 27 x 1 ¼  gum sided. Do I need to be aware of any discrepancies between older and newer tire mounting configurations on the rims. Is there a brand and model that is made specifically for fitting on older bikes?


texts: Creaking from cranks/spindle. How to fix?

texts:
Recently the cranks on my bike started to creak.
I checked with my usual "bike-bible" Park Tool. They recommended dis-assemble, lubricate, re-assemble.

So I did that.

Remove cranks.
Remove spindle.
Clean.
Lubricate.
Reassemble.

No, the creak is still there.

(To find out the source-area of the sound I had a friend riding the bike slowly while I ran alongside listening. And the sound where coming from the area of the bottom bracket/cranks. I am happy no neighbor saw me...)

For each revelation of the cranks there are two creak-noises.
If I, when on the bike, push down with both feet I hear a noise. Turn 180 degrees without pressure, push down again and there is the noise again.
If I am "too soft", low pressure there are no sound.
Since I have clips I have tried to only work with one foot to keep a constant load during a revelation, there where no detectable sound then.

Anyone have any idea what is wrong on the bike?
And how I should fix it?

/Leif


texts:
What is the difference in chain types, some say 11 speed, some say 9.

Is the only difference length, what would happen if i put an 11 speed chain on my 9 speed cassette ?

thanks.


texts: Why do cycle paths always have to be bumpy?

texts:
In the UK there are cycle paths laid down with proper tarmac just like the stuff they have on the roads. However, none of them that I have come across are level enough to afford a comfortable ride at speed.

I don't understand why it has to be this way, it is not as if cycle paths get dug up every five minutes like the roads do, there are no 40 tonne HGV's to break up the surface and the machines used to lay the tarmac are just like the ones they use on the road.

This is unfortunate given that most bikes do not have suspension, whereas all cars do.

What countries are there where they bother to lay cycle paths completely level? Why are the British ones never made nice and smooth? Do rough cycle paths discourage you from using them, in preference to staying on the road?

Edit:

Originally 'cycle lanes', I mean't 'cycle paths' - routes that are not necessarily adjacent to the road.


texts:
My rear brake cable detached yesterday while riding. When I pull the level all the way back (which I can now do with no tension), I think I can see the end of the brake cable inside the brake hood, but it's no longer being pulled by the lever.

2 Questions:

Is this a common problem? It seems like the cable shouldn't detach easily, but if something is wrong either equipment or technique-wise I'd like to correct it post haste
Is there a way I can re-attach the cable without disassembling and re-taping my handlebars? (My bike has standard road drop bars)


texts: SPD PD-M520 Pedals, replacing the Body Cover

texts:
I have taken the body cover off my Shimano PD-M520 pedals and am unable to get it back on due to a little nodule having to be behind the bit of metal where the tightness ajustment is. That part is very stiff to move the correct amount! I was wondering if theres a knack to it or if brute force has to prevail here? First Picture shows the body cover not on properly, (I never knew it was called a body cover until I checked out Shimano's schematic for the pedal!) the second picture shows the nodule thing im talking about (Im full of technical terms)

Thanks!


texts: Cannot reach the bearing adjustment nut on rear wheel

texts:
I have a Mt. bike with Shimano STX RC components.  I cannot reach the nut and lock nut to adjust the bearing tension.  Any ideas how to make an adjustment so I can reach it?

Also, How do I tell if my rear sprockets need to be replaced.  Can anybody see it it needs to from the picture?


texts: I inherited an old early 1990s Schwinn CrossFit with Shimano Thumb Shifters like in the photo below. There is a tiny black button that sticks out of the side of the shifter's circle. What is it for and how do I use it?


texts: What is the braking (stopping) distance for bicycles?

texts:
A vehicle driver must keep enough braking distance (aka stopping distance) between him/her and a vehicle in front in order to avoid collision. It depends on the driving speed.

What is the braking distance for bicycles:

between two bicycles?
and between a bicycle and a vehicle in front?

Is it calculated with the same formula or with a special one?

And which countries enforce this rule on cyclists?


texts: When is it time to replace my trainer tire

texts:
My trainer tire has cracks running along the length of the tire. They cracks seem to go in pretty deep, but don't go all the way around the tire. However it still has quite a bit of rubber on it and doesn't seem to be worn too much. I also don't think I have put that much mileage on it, but it is probably 5 years old, but only used for maybe 20-25 sessions.
I'm using a fluid trainer so I'm not really worried about being hurt, but I'm wondering if I should worry about it breaking and coming off the rim and causing some kind of damage if it gets caught in something.


texts: How do I change my single-speed to a fixed gear?

texts: I've been biking on single-speed for a few months and would like to play around with a fixed gear. I've heard of a flip-flop hub, but I'm not sure exactly what it is. And without any fellow bikers - I'm completely lost.


texts: What is the benefit of fat tires on pavement?

texts:
This year in my area, I've seen a lot of people using fat tires on paved bike paths and roads, when there was no fat bikes before. I also see a lot of these bikes in grocery stores. It is summer, so there is no snow.

I'm curious of the benefits of a fat tire beyond the obvious off-roading capabilities. Is it just a weird fad or is there some benefit of a fat tire vs a hybrid or a road bike?


texts: Trek 750 multitrack chainnsize and length?

texts: It has 3 gears in the front and 7 gears in the rear. And the derailers are suntour XC-Master.


texts: Bike with a hi-ten steel frame for getting around the city?

texts:
Recently I bought a new bike which has the following characteristics:

Size of frames: M (44cm) / L (48cm) / XL (52cm)
Wheel size / Number of gears: 26 "/ 21
Frame: HI-TEN Steel
Fork: HI-TEN steel fixed 26"
Hedsch: A -HEAD 1-1 / 8 "
Stem: ZOOM, Steel A-HEAD, ML 80mm / XL 110mm

I'm not a bike expert, but a friend of mine made a negative remark about the hi-ten frame saying that he would prefer an aluminium bike frame, or maybe another kind of steel.
I'm mainly going to use this bike to get around through my city, and nothing serious like mountaneering etc. I would like to know what issues can the hi-ten steel frame cause and should I change it for another one (aluminium frame bike) if I can?


texts: I own a trek 7000 hybrid and was wondering if there are aftermarket parts i.e. inner tubes and tires that will work for it. the wheels, tubes and tires are all bontrager if this helps any suggestions?


texts: Is climbing easier on a light road bike or one with lower minimum gearing?

texts: I am looking to get my first road bike and I am deciding between a 23.2 pound road bike with a minimum gear ratio of 34-32 or a 20.7 pound road bike with a minimum gear ratio of 34-28 and I was wondering which bike would be easier to climb with.


texts: What to Look for In Gloves for Winter Commuting

texts:
We live in Buffalo, NY where winters are harsh. My husband rides early in the morning and afternoon about 6 miles each way. The temperature is often below freezing, especially early in the morning – wind and snow make the cold worse and make his hands very wet. He says he arrives at work every morning with numb fingers and can't type for the first 20 minutes or so until they thaw.

I want to buy him some gloves that will keep his hands warm in the conditions he deals with. What should I be looking for? What features make a good glove for winter commuting in a cold, wet climate?


texts: Why won't tires go on my Velocity A23 rims?

texts: Recently bought the A23's. Wanted to see if the wider rims lived up to the hype of a smoother ride, better cornering, etc. After getting the wheels built by my shop, however, it appears to have been a colossal mistake! The problem: I can't get the tire on AT ALL!!!! Ended up with blood blisters on my fingers, not to mention probably coming close to getting a hernia, stroke, and/or heart attack trying to get the freaking thing on! Even a screw driver was of no use. (Only managed to get a tire on -- barely -- after taking off the rim strip and not putting a tube in.) Usually use Mavic Open Pros, could get the tires on those with no problem. Anyone know of a problem with these rims? Is it something inherent with a wider rim? (The inside depth of the A23 appears to be a mm or 2 shallower than the Mavic. Could that be it?) Or, could it be how the wheel was built? (I'm thinking maybe not enough tension.) Is there another "wide" rim I can try that is likely to work better?


texts: Complete beginner's question: inner tube too big?

texts: My tire wall tells me that my tires are 26 x 1.95. I bought a 26 x 1.75-2.15 inner tube. When I change the inner tube, though, the tube is bigger than the wheel by two inches. How do I determine inner tube size? Or am I just doing this wrong?


texts:
My son (teenager) has a second-hand Zombie bmx style bike - it's designed for kids, but as far as I can see the frame size is the same as any bmx. It needed a bit of messing around with, I've already replaced the wheels, which were fairly nasty pretend mags whose rims deformed whenever the tyres were inflated. What I'm now wondering is - the frame, like a lot of kids' bikes, is bulky and heavy. Is there a any reason why I couldn't transpose everything onto a different frame? Or am I missing an obvious incompatibility?

I love bikes, but as you can probably tell, bmx-s are foreign territory for me!


texts: Front derailleur range suddenly has become very short

texts:
For a while when I was riding, there was a stiff feeling changing from medium to high on the crank. Yesterday it wouldn't change at all.

I checked the adjustment of the High and Low screws by following a few tutorials on line (basically, I put it into low and moved the derailleur so that the inside of it was about .5mm away from the chain and adjusting the barrel screw). This was fine, but the problem still exists: the derailleur would not move into high range.

I released the cable altogether to check the gear selecting mechanism on the handlebar its self. All's fine there too - it moved freely.

Next, I moved the derailleur by hand and discovered I still could not get the chain to move to the high sprocket. It's like the derailleur does not have the movement range to move the chain up, even if the chain is rubbing against the inner side of the derailleur.

I checked everything around the derailleur including the two adjustment screws and nothing seems to be getting in its way.

Would anyone know what I could do to fix this?


texts: How do I know what nut to get for training wheels?

texts:
We got a dynacraft kids bike for my daughter off facebook market, but need nuts to attach the training wheels. The ones we have don't seem to be threaded right or something (won't tighten all the way without becoming loose again, like the threads are slipping).
I've looked everywhere online but can't find anything saying what kind of nut it should be. How can I go about figuring it out? Dynacraft won't let me contact support without a serial # and I see no serial # on the bike anywhere.


texts: Eddy Merckx serial number identification

texts:
I would like to identify my Eddy Merckx bike but throughout forums and online discussion, I couldn't find any clue as the serial number does not match anything found.
Serial number is apparently A0 - 930 see pictures attached
I'm pretty sure that the frame is a Corsa Extra, in Domex-Weinmann Team's colors.
If anyone would help me I would be happy to know more about it's history. I can give additional informations about the bikeenter image description here if needed.
Thanks in advance !


texts:
I'm using Garmin Fit for my phone. On a long ride my phone went out of power and didn't manage to record the last of the track. I've uploaded the first part of the ride to Garmin Connect and can export the ride to gpx.

My question is
Please help me find a online-service that allows me to:

Manually edit and finish my route using an editor with "stick to road" functionality

Set the time for the new points, so I will get an average speed for the last part of the ride and the total time will be correct (I know that one).

Export the result to gpx or another convertable format, to upload to Garmin Connect.


texts: How many fingers on the brakes for a road bike?

texts: For any reasonable mountain bike, it is advisable to keep one finger on each brake at all times. How does this advice transfer to road bikes?


texts: Shimano Acera hits spokes. Which screw to turn?

texts:
I have a Shimano Acera that hits the spokes in first gear (largest rear sprocket.)
I found three screws on the derailleur Which one should I turn, in which direction?
The bike (Specialized Sirius 2.0) is brand new, by the way, I thought I would fix it myself, as dealer service seems very busy atm.


texts: Broken shifter cable in Shimano Ultegra 6600 10-speed shifter

texts:
I broke my rear derailleur cable right at the shifter. These are Shimano Ultegra STI shifters from a 2008 Giant TCR C2 (I think they're Shimano 6600). I'm assuming that the cable head and frayed wire are stuck inside the shifter, but I can't see how to access them.

I have seen various online videos, such as How To Replace Shift Cables In STI Shifters/Brifters (Combined Brake/Shifters). However, I can see right through the shifter and don't see the end bit. I first shift into the easiest (biggest) ring. The shifter then only shifts 4 clicks into smaller rings, but I would expect 9 clicks (since this is a 10-speed shifter).

Does anyone have any ideas, based off the following images? I see a few screws that I could try to remove, but am wary about disassembling the shifter.


texts:
I have a fulcrum racing 5 evo which has a loud free hub (like other campy) for about 5 years now. I like the loud noise when coasting because I don't need to put a bell on the bike. On my last ride, I just notice that the wheel has become quite (like a shimano).

Can anyone tell me is that something I should be concerned (and get a bell), or is it just need servicing? I also don't know if it's serviceable because it has cartridge bearings. What is happening and how is it affecting the ride?


texts:
I've recently purchased a second hand Orbea with a 105 groupset, and I've noticed the chain makes a rubbing-like noise when in the big front ring.

It's not rubbing anywhere though - the gears are perfectly indexed, both at the front and rear, and the limits are set correctly on both. Gear shifting is perfect, both on the way up and the way down, on both front and rear derailleurs.

I'm not sure of the history of the bicycle, nor how many miles it's done, but my first task was to degrease the chain and cassette and lubricate everything back up again - so it's very well lubricated and free of any dirt and grime - but no amount of lubricant makes this noise go away.

The noise disappears when in the smaller front chain ring, specifically when the rear derailleur puts the chain under less tension. The chain is practically silent.
When in the larger front chain ring, the rear derailleur puts the chain under more tension and the noise appears.
If I keep it in the large front chain ring but take the tension out of the chain by moving rear derailleur by hand, the noise disappears.

Does anyone know what might be causing this?


texts: SRAM Hydraulic brake stuck (with a changed bite point) after landing/impact

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I experienced a weird problem on my SRAM level t 2 piston brakes.
I like hopping my bike around, e.g. bunny hopping onto curbs. Sometimes, if the impact is hard, the brake lever would have reduced travel. It feels like the pistons would engage the rotor at half of the normal travel (as if the brake is stuck in the middle). At that moment, if I grab the brake hard, I hear a clicking noise (from around the lever), after which it would function normally with the normal travel -- until I hit something hard again.
Never tried bleeding, but as the brake feels solid when engaged, I assume that bubble in the hydraulic line is not likely to be the cause. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this?
Thanks! The problem is driving me crazy, and it is dangerous to descend with these brakes with changing bite points.

Edit: I found the problem. If I bend the brake lever towards the opposite direction (e.g. away from the handlebar), the lever would be stuck at a different position, which can be corrected by a pull to the handlebar.
When I hop, my hand position would change slightly which bends the brake lever towards the wrong direction, which is the cause of the problem (instead of the vibration).
It is still kind of annoying as it is distracting when riding. But as least the problem is located.


texts: Where to buy dust cap for bottom bracket for an old bicycle?

texts: I need to buy replacement dust cap for the bottom bracket in the picture. Is it still available anywhere? Under what name can it be found?


texts:
Bicycle : Fixie, it came with fixed gear and freewheel, I use the freewheel cog.

Today, after a tire and tube replacement it now rubs on the frame. The new tire is a little bit bigger but this problem existed even with the old smaller tire, just that I managed to keep it clear. It rubs onto either one side, no matter what I do. (Refer to pictures 3, 3a and 4)

Also, I have been told that the frame is bent, which I actually don't buy since I have never got into an accident, unless it's a factory defect. (Refer to pictures 1 and 1a)

My brother decided to tinker around with the screws between the frame and rim housing, they now both spin whenever one side is being screwed, what do these screws do anyway? (Refer to picture 2 and 2a)

What are your suggestions or options that I have?


texts:
I currently have a 7 speed cassette, 7 speed derailleur and 7 speed shifter from Shimano. Unfortunately, my rear derailleur (Shimano Tourney) broke, so I want to replace it with something better. The problem I'm facing though is that I'm finding only 9 speed derailleurs that fit what I'm looking for and where I don't have to pay stupidly high shipping fees (I was looking at the Shimano Alivio line).

That's why I'm wondering if a 9 speed derailleur works with a 7 speed cassette and shifter. Would it work with the chain I have right now or does a derailleur only work with chains rated for the same amount of gears?


texts: What is the widest tyre that you can get away with, on a standard road bike?

texts:
In general, what is the widest tyre that you can get away with, on a standard road bike (with dual pivot brakes)?

Edit: I have a Campagnolo Eurus wheelset.


texts: Front gear issues with middle ring (not always making it over)

texts:
I've been trying to straighten out some shifting issues on a kid's bike, it's a Diamondback and is a few years old. On the front gear-set it has a few issues that I am having trouble fixing through l and h screw adjustment and indexing.

When shifting from the small ring to the middle it doesn't always make the shift, I have to twist it a little past the audible click to ensure a shift.
Also it's shifting into the big ring way too early. When moving the shifter about halfway to the audible click it's already moved over, letting go at this point results in a downshift.

From what I'm interpreting fixing one of these issues would make the other worse. Does anyone have some tips?


texts: Used WD-40 on headset and now it loosens daily

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I've used WD-40 on my bike's headset as it produced some cracking noises. The result is a headset that gets loose after every ride.

I've tried to use a wrench to tighten it, alas, it went loose after a couple of days.

Any recommendation of how I can fix my mistake?

UPDATE - image of the bike.  It has a threadded headset and quill stem.


texts:
I bought a cheap assemble-yourself bike and the front brake spring came bent. I'm having trouble googling a replacement since its a no-name brand. Any advice on how I might go about buying a replacement?

(And obligatory safety disclosure: yes, I carefully inspected and tested the rest of the brake system to make sure this was the only defective part.)


texts: changing disc brake pad material while keeping same rotors

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I would like to know what effect changing the material of a set of disc brake pads would have on the rotors if you kept them the same. for example, If I have resin pads and have been using them for the life of the rotors, what would happen if I switched to metal or organic pads, while still keeping the rotors the same? Would they just squeal like crazy?
thanks


texts: Is this tire properly fitted on the rim?

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My tires are 622 x 38C, and on the rim it says 622 x 21C (m̶i̶n̶i̶m̶u̶m̶ ̶t̶i̶r̶e̶ ̶w̶i̶d̶t̶h̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶m̶ ̶s̶u̶p̶p̶o̶r̶t̶s̶,̶ ̶I̶ ̶b̶e̶l̶i̶e̶v̶e the rim width).
These tires cost around 18 dollars each.

I've spent some time on:

making sure I haven't pinched the tube and there is no foreign object between the tire and the rim;
deflating, adjusting the bead, trying to straighten the tire, reinflating;

The rim is true, the bead seems fine, yet the tire has a noticeable wobble (~2mm I would say):

This is how the bead looks:

These are the original components of a 170USD bicycle I bought from Decathlon a month ago. They have bicycle mechanics and a repair shop; but I guess they don't spend a lot of time fine tuning the bicycles before selling, especially the cheaper ones.

The front tire (which I haven't touched yet) wobbles a bit more; the rim is also 1-2mm out of true.

Will this tire wobble wear down the bearings faster, or other components?
Or is this amount considered normal, and won't do any harm?
Is this as true as you can get on such a cheap bicycle?
Should I spend more time trying to adjust or leave it as it is?


texts: Stripped threads on left crank on the first ride

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I just purchased a new road bike and had a friend assist me in the assembly. There must have been a problem because it fell off after only 2 miles of riding for the very first time. I used a pedal wrench and tightened it. The pedal was indicated as being the "left" pedal and has reverse threads.

Now the threads on the left crank are about half stripped. I have successfully screwed the pedal on but am worried about it failing now. The crankset is a Shimano FC-RS500. I would post a picture but I don't want to do anymore damage to the threads by taking it off again.

Do I replace the left crank now or just wait and see?


texts: MTB 9 speed sram shifters/rear deralier, shimano 9 speed cassette (HG?) only shifts to 8 cogs

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I have an old KHS Team ST frame that I just threw components on about 15 years ago.  the drive train is SRAM esp 9.0 shifters and rear derailleur with a shimano HG cassette.  I have never been able to shift into the smallest cog.  I wonder if this frame (most likely 1999 or 2000) is compatible with a 9 speed drivetrain or if I am just absolutely horrible at bicycle maintenance.  I am also no longer certain that my chain is a 9 speed chain, but it probably needs to be replaced so I will be doing that anyway.

What are some things I can look at to fix this problem.


texts:
I am new to bike maintenance. When I tried replacing my bike chain at home, the connection rivet was very tight and I wasn't able to loosen it without using a screw driver and force it between the two metal plates. Now the connection rivet is loosened, but I noticed the upper plate is slightly bent, Oh!

My question: is this chain done? Or I am fine riding it with limited time? Or the segment would be durable and I am completely fine?


texts:
I have fancy new full-suspension bike and both shocks have this strange setting, called Rebound. It's a red dial, beside the blue CTD lever.

Increasing it makes the shock less responsive to small obstacles. Thus, pedal bob is reduced. However, if I max it out, the shock becomes so stiff, that even jumping onto the saddle (the bike is stationary) from quite some height doesn't move it a bit.

What are some guidelines to tune my fork and rear shock for the terrain that I ride in and for my mass?

My rear shock has CTD. Why would I ever want to limit the travel and sustain high pedal bob, when I can just increase the rebound and enjoy efficient pedaling?

It is known from Linear systems, that a suspension can roughly be modeled by

m*a + b*v + c*s = Fs, where
m - mass
a - second derivative of position with respect to time
b - damping coefficient
v - first derivative of position
c - spring coefficient
s - position
Fs - fore on the suspension element.

Is rebound the same as the coefficient b above?


texts: Are 29" and 26" bikes come with different size frames?

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I am going to buy a cycle. In this regard I got my framesize 20". Now I would like to know is it for 26er or 29er ?? Is frame size will be different for 29er and 26er ??

I am going to buy a GT Timberline. My height is 5' 11.5" inseam is 34.5". I am from Bangladesh. May be I am going to have 18.5" frame size.


texts:
Does anyone have any lighting suggestions for our Xtracycle hooptie?  We'd like to keep it very visible (precious cargo in there) especially when viewed from the side.

Was thinking about an options such as these wrap around lights.  Though would prefer something that would make the bike look a little less like a Christmas tree :)


texts:
I have recently upgraded my hybrid with regular flats for a road bike with drops.  Much to my surprise I adapted to the drop handlebars pretty quickly, however, even though I have a ladies' specific road bike, I still have an issue putting enough pressure on the brakes when working off the hoods.  I have to take my right hand off and place it on the drop to pull the brake in fully.  This actually makes me feel a tad nervous.  My husband suggested that it might be possible to fit interruptor brakes on the handlebars as well which sounds like an ideal solution to me but am not sure if this is possible on a road bike. I can only find references to fitting the to CX bikes.   I also have a bit of an issue with arthritis in my thumb joints, which makes it even harder for me to put so much pressure onto the brakes when working off the hoods.

I have a Trek 1.2 with the Shimano Sora triple chainset and I have already enquired as to whether it would be possible to adjust the brakes, but apparently this is not possible with the Sora system.

Does anyone know whether interruptor brakes would be feasible or not please?

Thanks.


texts: Scott S30 road bike 11speed with 10 speed compatibility

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I have a Scott S30 bike currently running a shimano 105 2x10 speed 50-34 crankset, shimano 105 10 speed front shifter and 10 speed cassete and chain.
I have a new crank that i want to install, the shimano 105 5800 53-39 but it is 11 speed. I'd like to know if i can make it work with the rest of the bike. I will change cassete and chain anyways because they already need replacement.
So i have some questions:

Can i buy the same 10 speed cassette i used before?
I use a 12-25 cassete now, can i upgrade to a 11-28 one or does this require a special rear derailleur?
The chain can be the same 10 speed chain or should i buy a 11 speed one? I have read mixed opinions on this. Some say its fine with 10 speed other say its better with 11...
Are this good cables for my bike? I need to replace them but i can't spend much http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=2;product=21934


texts:
I have seen a racer for sale in BKK, for 2500 Baht, in a scrap yard. It is a bit of a hybrid, but the frame is apparently branded Vicini:

However, the logo doesn't match that which I found on the web. This is the logo, on the bicycle that I found:

This is the logo that I found on the web, from this page:

Does anyone know if this is a good brand, and whether I have found a dusty nugget of treasure, or is it just a no-brand fake clone? I have googled for Vincent branded bicycles and not come up with all that much.

Additional photos and info
FWIW, the rear derailleur mechanism is a Exage 300EX, the gear shifts are Shimano (although the photo is unfocused unfortunately), and the rear brake cable is threaded in-frame inside the top horizontal tube:

The logo can also be seen on the seat tube:


texts: Can anybody tell me if you can repair a Wolber Carima carbon fibre wheel that has a chip on the rim?


texts: Disc brake pads - steel vs aluminium back plate

texts: I am looking at a set of Organic Disc brake pads. The brake pads come with a steel back plate or as an aluminium back plate. Why would I choose one over the other?


texts:
I am a newbie at gears.  I had to buy a new cassette and back wheel, and have just done a straight swap.

Now I am not getting all my gears at the back. Eg when in fifth gear it says I'm in 4th etc.

What is wrong ?


texts: What items should be in a bare-minimum first-aid / emergency kit?

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Yesterday I was hit by a car; very minimal injuries and overall a very minor accident--but in hindsight it's made me realize I was ill prepared and really should have a small emergency kit with me at all times.

This kit would be for true "emergencies" only, not bike breakdowns.  If I find myself injured--or others find me injured and unconscious--what items and information should I have with me?

This kit should:

contain the bare essentials
be very compact and convenient to either transfer between bikes or build one for every bike
durable with very little maintenance
obvious to bystanders and/or emergency responders so that it will be found and opened if need be


texts: My bike tire just started rubbing against the frame. Please help me fix it

texts: the problem is the back tire just started rubbing against the frame. this literally happened 30 min ago. please help me fix it!!


texts: Can anyone help me date this Puch Clubman Sport 12 Paceline?

texts: I'm trying to figure out what year (or at least what decade) this old Puch was built. It came equipped with a 6-speed Shimano Positron RD and Uniglide cassette, and the serial number on the frame is 7547056.


texts: Will regular removal, cleaning and re-placing of my chain weaken or damage it?

texts: When I'm cleaning my bike, the quickest way to degrease my chain is to remove it and degrease it in a small tub. Will constant removal / re-adding to the bike cause damage? I don't have a quick release chain.


texts: How can I tighten a loose rear derailleur onto the derailleur hanger?

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I have recently tried to install an NX Eagle derailleur on my bike, but I could not tighten it onto the hanger tight enough to firmly fix it, so that it does not rotate around the pivot. In other words, it would just turn around the fixing bolt like it were an axle, no matter how tight I screwed it in. The tightening torque definitely is not the problem.

The only way I could solve this was by putting a pedal washer (because I had one nearby that I did not need) under the fixing bolt and then tightening. This works, but it does not seem like a great solution, so I would like to know if somebody had a similar issue, what is the cause (maybe the bolt thread is too short), and is there a better way to solve it?

Is there a dedicated washer for this purpose? Or is the mech supposed to just turn around the pivot until it becomes tensioned by the chain, which I very much doubt?


texts: The sprocket wheel on my Shimano Nexus 7(SG-R46) no longer rotates freely when free-wheeling my bike

texts: The hub has just been serviced at a bike shop. With the bike on a work-stand, the rear wheel rotates when I turn the pedals backwards. There is a lot of resistance if I hold the wheel and turn the pedals backwards. If I turn the pedals forwards and stop suddenly, the wheel will stop turning within 3 - 4 rotations instead of free-wheeling for 30 seconds or so. With the chain removed, the wheel rotates completely freely. I had earlier complained to the shop about loose wheel bearings after the service and they 'fixed' this problem. It was then I discovered the stiff rotational resistance on the sprocket. Regards.


texts:
Today the weather was 36°C (97°F) and sunny.

What should I know about riding when it's a bit hot like that?

I'm a kind of casual rider now (no longer commuting by bike) -- when the weather is above freezing I'm like:

20 to 80 km rides at an average 20-25 kph.
Don't stop en route (except for gulps of water).
Drink a bottle or two of water, and eat a banana or two on the way home.
Cotton shorts and T-shirt.
Over 50 and a bit overweight.
Roads are slightly hilly and unshaded.

I went out today wanting a longer ride but returned home half-way because of the heat (so I managed only 20 km each way, 40 km round-trip).

I've heard that occasionally people can get heat stroke (and brain damage) from their e.g. running in the heat. What should I know about how to cycle?

Is it just like, "Don't: stay home and drink plenty of fluids"?
Is there a temperature above which you don't ride (or ride less, or more slowly)?
Do I have to be cleverer than my usual (water), about electrolytes or something?
Do you stop for rests (to cool down)? Do you know/recognize symptoms of overheating?
Is it necessary to stick to shadier routes?
Is pouring water on yourself necessary, or a luxury? Any other precautions?
Do you ride without a helmet (I did, because with a helmet my eyes flood with stinging sweat)?


texts: Hydration rucksacks on and off the bike?

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I suffer from diabetes insipidus, body fluids and inability to keep them inside.
I'm not a fan of using a rucksack on a ride, prefer the bike to carry the weight, but am wondering if a small hydration pack would be good for riding and walking when off the bike? Ideally I'd use some hydration mix, rather than just plain water. A good idea or would I be better with the bigger, 660 ml, water bottle and carry that in a handlebar bag over my shoulder when off the bike?


texts: Should the bike or the rider take the jolt from a bump, and how?

texts:
The last part of my commute to work has some significant bumps in the road which are really quite jarring, since I'm on a road bike that, of course, has no shocks (but has a carbon fork).

Most of the bumps are caused by cracks in the asphalt that have separated or curb corners that don't totally flatten to the road level at the crosswalk... or tree roots that have started to push up from beneath the pavement.

Should the bike take most of the concussion from hitting bumps? If I lift myself off the seat only barely and just for a moment, I don't have to feel the brunt of the force, and my bike has more freedom to take the hit instead of me. (These aren't so large that I am at much risk of totally flying off the bike if I stand up slightly for those moments. I'm still holding on, but maybe more lightly.)

Will the bike last longer if I kind of use my legs as springs, or should I stay firmly planted and take the jolt from the bump? What's the tradeoff, if any, between my health/safety and the longevity of the bike?


texts: How to objectively evaluate torque wrenches?

texts:
My local bicycle group bought very nice but very expensive torque wrenches (if I can remember right they cost about €300–500). My local discount store markets them for about €50. My local auction site has them ranging from a few euros to many hundred euros.

I don't care about product recommendations. I want to know how I can objectively evaluate them. I know that even a superb one can deteriorate due to poor handling, hence my local bike group locks them. It must always be unloaded to 0 Nm after use so that the spring won't deteriorate, non-verified information. I am planning to invest in one because I tend to destroy the metallic things such as these here. If not at all possible, please let me know whether I could use any hardware store tool for bicycle things or should I invest in one marketed to bicyclists?

P.S. by torque wrench I mean the thing that shows Newton meter units.


texts: Can I use SRAM DUB Red Crankset in a Trek Madone SLR 7 that requires GXP?

texts:
I have an Allied Alfa Disc with SRAM Dub and Red AXS Crankset (with Quarq pm).... and I want to switch all my components onto this 2020 Trek Madone SLR 7 Frameset. My LBS says I have to buy a new SRAM crankset with a GXP spindle.
Is that the best option? Can I do something else like use different bearings or this kit?


texts:
Looking for some advice.  A little background:  Admittedly, I am new and just taking up biking (or trying to).  I am undecided on which type of bike to buy - a flat bar or a drop style.  I realize this has more to do with where and what purpose I ride.  I'd like to reserve the ability to leisurely ride some trails, but most rides will be on pavement and I've found that perhaps a hybrid or fitness bike is where I should be looking.  So, for as long as I can remember, biking has caused ischial bone pain for me. After lots of research, I am finding that my problem is likely geometry and bike setup, so please know that I will be fit at a bike shop before I purchase.

Last night I took my daughter's fitness bike - an xs and I will likely fit a medium - and experienced the same bone pain.  I know the bike is too small for me, but when I tried to adjust my seating position, the most comfortable position was for me to lean forward in a more aggressive way - I rested my forearms on the flat bar and this took all the pain away. My question is this:  Could this be indicative that my body prefers this more aerodynamic position?  Should I be seeking a drop bar instead of a flat bar?  I know there are lots of factors here, seating position, length of seat to handlebars, my weight, etc (or so I've read) but I'm really questioning the front handlebars now.

I'd love to hear your experience and advice.  Please be gentle, I'm new to this, would love to get into it, am willing to spend some money to get a decent starter bike ($1100 maybe?) but I want to ensure I'm getting the right kind of bike.  Again, I realize there are lots of factors going on here, but is there any value to what I experience last night...that my body might prefer to be more forward?

Thanks,
Kris


texts:
Am I correct is saying that for all major pedal systems (SPD, SPD-SL, Look, Speedplay, CB Eggbeaters) that if a pedal has more float, then it will take more rotation to release your foot from the pedal?

My particular interest in this question stems from ACL issues where rotation is not ideal.

Anyone have any info on the Speedplay Light Action pedals? The claim to have 15 degrees of float and yet require less twisting to release.


texts: Which kind of test has bike parts to pass to be sold?

texts:
This is a question regarding bureaucracy/testing. What are the quality tests / standards that a bicycle and/or its parts need to pass before access the market?
I am thinking about Germany/USA and other big european markets.

What is preventing from setting up a carbon fiber press in my basement and starting selling ultralight carbon forks with a little fine print "not liable if ridden for more than 100 miles"?

My question steems from two thing:
- fear
and
- the unpleasant feeling of seeing so many nice road bike from +-2005 which could be very good commuter bike ... apart from their carbon fork (it's my feeling: no implications or judgements, at the moment).

ps: apologize, I would refer to composite material in the tags, but I cannot create it ... but for SEO reasons I stiil put it here, I am really interested into the required standards for bike forks and composite forks and frame in composite carbon/crabon fiber CF.


texts: Can FH9000 rear freehub be put on bicycle with 7800 Dura Ace group?

texts: My bike is a Coppi Wing with a 7800 Dura Ace group. My cassette is a 10-speed CS 5700 for Tiagra. I have to replace my freehub. Will a Dura-Ace 9000-series freehub fit?


texts: How to tighten SRAM HRD Rival brake lever?

texts:
I have SRAM Rival HRD brake/gear shifters on my cross bike. It's a 1X setup.

The left brake lever (this is the UK where rear brake lever is on the left, so it's the rear brake lever only) has lateral play. The shifter can be wiggled a little side to side and a little forward and backward before the brake starts to engage.

I would like to stop this play, the right hand front brake/shifter lever has no or much less noticeable play.

Firstly, I know the brake needs bleeding, and I will get this sorted but is there any way to tighten the lever?

I see from the exploded view in the service manual that there is a pivot pin. It doesn't appear that this can be tightened?

Is it likely that simply bleeding the system will remove some/all of the play or is there something else I can do?


texts: How to carry sunglasses, so that I can easily put them on or off?

texts:
Has someone discovered a way to carry sunglasses, so that they can be put on or removed while riding?

I have tried two approaches, and both have drawbacks.

Carrying in a pouch, attached to the shoulder ring of the backpack results in scratched lens, because of the vibrations.

Carrying in the chest pocket of a jacket is possible only when it is sufficiently cold to wear a jacket.

My backpack is large and with a lot of options for hanging equipment on it, so maybe some kind of attachable box or external pocket?


texts: Hayes Sole Disk Brakes, adjusters stiff/seized?

texts:
Second hand bike, my first time encountering Hayes Sole brake calipers. My brakes front and back have gone a bit weak so I wanted to tighten them up a bit. Each side of caliper has an allen key section that pushes in each brake pad. When you pull the brakes(hydraulic) one pad moves in and the other is static. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hayes-hydraulic-brake-service

Front brakes are okay, I could screw in the static side a bit while the moving side is already all the way in(it does screw out ok), brake pads look like they have a bit more life left. Braking feels ok now but maybe not super strong. :-7

Back brakes both sides are stuck, I can neither screw them in nor out. I have cleaned a bit will leave oil/WD40 (WARNING! you should lubricate using DOT brake fluid, especially do not get oil/WD40 anywhere near or on piston seals or brake pads or brake disc) soak in and start using more force tomorrow but I was wondering is this a problem someone else has encountered, does anyone have any experience and advice with regards to these brakes?

Thanks.


texts: I took apart my shimano m770 front and rear hubs, and removed both (!!) cones on each axle. When reassembling everything I ran into the issue of re-centering the axles (so that the rims run in the middle of the fork/frame). What I did was centering the wheels by eye as good as I could, but I'm sure I'm still 1-2mm off center. What I wonder is, if this will cause any problems (I use rim breaks) or if it's totally fine?


texts: Is it common to own two MTBs for different weather conditions?

texts:
I'm newish to cycling, so I apologize if this is a stupid question... Does it make sense to have two MTBs -- one for dry weather and another for wet/winter weather? I'm doing both paved and dirt trails.

I'd like for my current MTB (a 27.5x2.0 hardtail Specialized) to be used in dry weather since it already has slicks on it. Then I'd possibly like to have a second MTB with much wider tires (e.g., Trek Roscoe 7 @ 27.5x2.80) for the rainy/wintry weather. I don't want a fat bike per se, but something with wider tires so I get more traction, and likely studded tires for the winter.

I'm not riding everyday because I'm afraid of slipping in the rain, and I'm kinda lazy about swapping tires. I know it only takes like 5-10 mins to swap tires, but I don't even know if it's safe to be swapping them all the time (e.g., if it destroys the rubber over time). Also, having an extra set of wheels can be expensive considering my current MTB is only $450.


texts: Replacing my bottom bracket. I need help IDing a replacement

texts:
So I have owned a Swhinn Network 3.0 (21-speed. Square tapered BB. All aluminum) for almost 5 months, and at about month 3 the bottom bracket started giving me some noise. I work in a bike shop on my UNI's campus so I opened it, purged, and re-lubed it. All was well. The it made noise again in two weeks. Rinse and repeat. Then again a few days ago it stopped turning. I got it to move again, but learned the bearing case (the little metal ring with the hooks that holds the little balls) had been flattened, pressed, warped, and demolished, so I removed both of them and put two more bearings in each side (22 bearings total) to occupy the excessively empty space and it worked fine for another two days until it started clicking again.

I am giving up on it and want to buy a non-servicing BB, but with all the acronyms and numbers and measurements I am not completely sure I can accurately pick the right one and not waste my (limited) money. Sheldon Brown is extremely confusing, and I can't make heads or tails of what he is saying, and can't seem to find my current BB on there anyway. What I have found that seem like they'll work and why/why not are listed below:

Shimano BB-UN26 - My bikes BB case (Terminology?) is 68mm, and the spindle is 125mm. It seems like the 68x123 might work, and thats only bringing each crank 1mm closer. Or I cuold play it safer with the 68x127.5 and tolerate the extra 1.25mm on each side (easy peasy, right?). My issue with it is the plastic cup. Is that a bad idea? Also, whould chainline matter at all if I get a BB with equal spindle length?

Shimano BB-UN55 (can't link, but it is on amazon) - Basically the same as UN26, but with an alloy cup instead of plastic. My frame is aluminum, so would this be bad to get, or good?

Are there any BBs you prefer that you'd recommend, or can I just run with one of these? I only have a week before I lose access to my tools, so time is also a factor, and if I can get it on Amazon Prime that would be most preferable.


texts: How to determine which cassettes I can use with my derailleur?

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I am trying to understand which cassettes I can install on my bike. I've understood that the length of the derailleur also determines which cassettes will fit.

In my case I have a triple (see picture below), with a 10-speed cassette, in the range 12-25. My experience with this cassette (and 30-tooth chainring) in the 18% stretches is not too pleasant. Therefore I am looking for options to replace it with a cassette with sprockets up to 27 or even 30 tooth.

My main question is how I can determine which cassettes will fit on my bike. Even more I would appreciate a general answer, that explains what the limitations are of the derailleur when choosing cassettes, such that I can determine it myself.


texts: What things to check on road bike after a long trip on poor roads

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Just bought a new aluminium frame road bike with 25mm tires. Due to very poor planning, I started a journey that turned out to be suited for mountain bikes: it involved country roads, unpaved gravel sections, some parts that were paved were more potholes than asphalt. After a pinched flat (because of the very poor paved sections), skidding 3 times and barely making it out, I decided to call it a day midway, and 45 exhausting kms(28 miles) spent.

Besides a very sore bum, I am wondering what other things maybe have suffered. What things should I check on my bike to see if anyone is broken, shaken, what things might turn loose, what areas are susceptible to paint being chipped at, what things to pay attention to on my next ride (which will only be on smooth roads), etc


texts: Need assistance identifying new tire options for Fuji 4130

texts: Fuji 4130 bike with ARAYA Japan rim 26x1.50 HE VP-20  Old tires are dryrotted.  ( old tire code reads 26x1.80 c-863)  have no idea what to buy to fit. (rim measures 22" diameter, roughly)


texts: Replacing the handlebar grips with ergonomic ones?

texts: I had bought this set a while back and I eventually managed to replace them the other day, but... It didn't work! The length of the bar is too short to reach the end of the new grips, i don't know where to buy a metal bar, and even if I do, it'll cost a lot to get them and have them cut in two small pieces as attachments to these grips. I noticed this thread reel is tight enough if I squeeze into the vertical attachment from one side and the main bar from the other, but I'm not sure if it's strong enough. Is there any other way I can get around with this?


texts: Techniques for safely leaving a bike for 1-2 minutes in a safe-ish place

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In the last year, 3 of my friends got their bikes stolen by leaving them "just for a minute" in front of a shop "while watching them through the window".

Nevertheless, sometimes I do the same. Maybe I didn't plan to bring a lock, and need to jump really quick to somewhere. Maybe there is a security guard nearby, or a bank camera. Maybe I am just too lazy to to dig the lock out of the bottom of my backpack, and have exact change to grab a beer. Maybe there is nowhere to lock to in a 100m radius.

My question is how to increase security in these dangerous situations.

A friend shared with me, that he shifts into the lowest gear - that way if someone tries to ride away the bike, it will take him quite some time. On the other hand, something that I do, is lean my backpack against the bike or even strap them together. IMO this makes riding off with the bike a little more difficult, while risking my backpack along with the bike.

Conclusion:

Currently, the "derail the chain off the front chainrings" sounds most sane to me, because I can do it with my shoe, without getting oil on my hands. Still, carrying the lock on my waist, under the backpack belt, is the far best solution. Why do I even put it inside the backpack?


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I turned 37 this summer, and started ridding quite a lot (about 3500km in a little less than a year). When buying my carbon bike, and then aluminium commuter, I was careful to set the saddle height using the same method: putting the heel on the pedal and stretching the leg. That way, my pedal stroke has my legs still being slightly bent when reaching the furthest development. I had to fine-tune during the first week, but soon found the most comfortable position.

About 2 months ago, I started having the feeling that my knees bend a bit more than they use to. I also noticed sometimes light pain in the knee, the same as described when position is not good. It's not permanent, but it happens sometimes.

Oh, and my seat post hasn't gone down the tube. Saddle posts are marked, and didn't move.

Is it possible for my morphology to change with constant effort? I try to ride quite often 150km on the weekend and I commute everyday.


texts: I'm trying to find what model my Bianchi is

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I'm trying to know what model my Bianchi is. It's written "Mask Lite Alloy" on the body but couldn't find any other indicator for the model so does anyone has an idea what model it is?

It's sitting in my cousin's basement and he's planning to dump it or give it to someone else. That someone is me and I don't know how to figure out the model. The frame is aluminium by the way.