texts: Which is the strongest lacing pattern for 32 and 36 spokes

texts:
Since I already hit the problem with wrong spoke length (changing my old front 32H hub with asymmetrical flanges to a new one with symmetrical), just started to think about the stiffness of the wheels. Heard that the standard lacing pattern is usually 3-cross (3 holes interval on the rim, 4 holes interval on the hub), but never thought which one is the strongest. So I changed the lacing (and spokes to be shorter) - 3 holes interval on the rim, 2 holes interval on the hub ...

Any suggestions about the lacing pattern, note that the new hub is 20x110 (a model for DH/FR, but will be used in street hard braking/drops/etc a lot)


texts: What might be causing rear casette to creak?

texts:
So I'm a bike noob in terms that my bike is certainly new, and since I bought it I've had problems with it.

So this time, I've figured where the problem comes from, it's the rear casette exactly, once it's under load, it makes a creak sound, which at high speed, sounds like a click, and in the past used to be just a click, very loud, it has been reduced to a softer creak now; let me make a timeline of important events.

It was clicking awfully and louder, when on load.
The bike shop changed the freewheel.
It started creaking softer, still would click at fast speeds.
The bike shop changed the pedals, bottom bracket.
Nothing happened, it was still the same if not worse.
I started playing with the rear cassete and derraulier, it got better for a little while; it got fixed the day it rained, somehow.
Creak/click is coming back, I found a way to replicate the load, and it replicates the sound, definitely the cassette; even grabbing the casette and rotating it with your bare hands makes the same sound; I was not strong enough with only one hand to do it in the video.

What do you think it is? should I complain for the 7th time in the bike shop but this time tell them exactly what it is? anyway the more information the better, so at least I can talk with property.

Here's the video where I show my homemade attempt.

Also I'm surprised this is exactly the same exact sound that it does when I climb (thanks youtube):

             this is 100% the same.


texts:
I've recent purchased a road bike bit of a classic with the downtube shifters, lugged steel frame etc etc.

Before I mainly road my fixie, thou I do have another geared bike, but it left a bit to desired; just had the top tube indexed shifters, which were a little off to say the least. So between the both of them I never really bothered much with changing gears.

Now I hear a lot of the whole:

"spinning is winning"

I want to improve two things, my endurance and cadence.

I want to know what way to change gears in an efficient manner as to maintain optimal power output.

A situation that comes to mind:

Coming up to a hill to climb

--Fixie it was a cause of momentum is your friend ass off the seat and sprint on them pedals.

--What should I do on a geared bike and what are the signs of doing it right?

Other situations

Starting from standstill?
Coming to a stop?
Long prolonged climb?


texts:
Is the balancing easier on big cycles after the kid learns to ride pedal less bicycle?

Kid is 2 years 8 months old. Is this a correct age to go for such a cycle?


texts: Possible cause for Google Maps / bicycle odometer divergence (tire size setting correct)

texts:
I have plot my exact route from home to my office using Google Maps. By exact, I mean that I took nearly every turn and change from auto-calculated route to match my exact route into consideration.

Google Maps claims that my route is 10.4 km. Everyday I'm riding it, my bicycle's odometer claims that I have actually traveled 11.11 km.

I did exactly the same with my return route (a bit different) and after including every actual turn, change etc. it turned out that route is 9.5 km according to Google Maps and 10.43 km according to my odometer.

The difference is 0.7 / 11.1 = 6.3% on the outward trip and 0.9 / 10.4 = 8.6% on the return trip1.

My first and of course obvious clue was an incorrect tire size setting in my odometer. However, I double-checked to be sure it's correct:

I have (50-559) 26x1.95 tires, so I believe I should set it to 2089.

What else could cause the difference?

I have consulted this with a very experienced bicycle rider, but he mistakenly thinks it's because the Google Maps route doesn't always match the actual route. However, I spend some time adjusting the auto-calculated route, so it matches my actual route in about 99.5%.

1 Assuming that my difference calculation formula is correct. Plus -- I don't know why divergence is higher in case of return trip. The only clue, that I have is that it takes much more backroads, turns, slow downs (while onward trip is riding on the streets nearly all of time), which causes, that travel time is longer in case of return trip even though it is shorter. But, that is a weak argument as divergence should be the same in both / all cases.


texts: I have a 1993 Rockhopper frame that I'm riding as a singlespeed.  I have some creaking around my bottom bracket.  I've just recently stripped and painted the frame, and there wasn't anything suspicious around the bottom bracket shell.  The bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge type.  I've had some problems with the nuts that hold the chainring onto the crank coming loose, so I'm wondering whether that's the source of the noise.  What is the best way to go about determining what's causing the noise?


texts: Rear mech cage stuck, how can I take it apart?

texts:
This is a shimano ultegra 6700 rear mech.

The swing arm/cage is incredibly stiff where it connects to the derailleur. I can just about rotate (red arrows) it a small amount but requires a lot of effort.

I tried to loosen up using an hex key (at the blue arrow), but it seems incredibly soft and I think I may have rounded out the thread, it would not budge.

What can I do? Without any motion in that mech cage means that when I shift into the higher gears on the cassette, it doesn't take up the slack in the chain, causing it to drag along the frame and close to the ground.


texts: Is there a special technique for truing flat spoked wheels?

texts:
I have a set of Shimano R560's that have flat, bladed spokes (16 front & 20 rear, from memory).  They are a little worse for wear after a couple of years and at least 10,000 kms.  My usual LBS has had a go at truing them but they continually go out of true just with everyday riding.

Does anyone know of any special techniques required for these types of wheels?

I also ask since I have another set of Ksyrium wheels, and while they have been fantastic over the past 5 years, I want to be prepared should they ever get out of true.


texts: When down-shifting my rear derailleur (Campagnolo 10spd) is skipping multiple gears.

texts: The problem feels like it is in the shifter as it just "lets go" when I press it. I'm told it could be the G spring. Is it something in the derailleur or the shifter? If its the shifter is replacing the G spring an easy task (doesn't look like it is in the exploded diagram!).


texts: Where can I find Cannondale bike's serial number if the sticker is missing?

texts:
I was looking at a used aluminum frame Cannondale from 2017 but the serial number sticker is missing:

Cannondale bikes will display the serial number on the underside of the frame. It’ll be next to a bar code.

Source: Cannondale registration pgae
I was wondering if the serial number can be found somewhere else on the frame in case of a missing sticker. I have seen it stamped below the bottom bracket in other brands' aluminum frames, but not on this bike.
Thanks for your help!


texts:
This FC-M202 200gs has a label saying For NARROW chain only:

So what size exactly? Wikipedia lists three sizes:

3⁄32 in (2.4 mm),
1⁄8 in (3.2 mm),
5⁄32 in (4.0 mm), or
3⁄16 in (4.8 mm)

I can't find much information about the FC-M202 (is that because it is a very old crankset?), but this thread, Very Old Shimano 7 speed replacement mentions Shimano IG chain, and this question, KMC Z8S IG or HG compatibility, states that IG chains are not a good idea (as they are hard to find and can't be used with HG cassettes), and SRAM would be better.

FWIW, I currently have a FC-TY33, and the FC-M202 has the same gear ratios (48/38/28). I am not sure what chain I currently have (IG, HG or SRAM) - I have had a close look at it and there appears to be an italic 'I' stamped into each link, but my eyes could be fooling me (and TAIWAN stamped on the rear side of some of the links).

However, it certainly does not look like this (nor does it have Shimano written on it):

The chain would have been purchased circa 2005, maybe.

I have an FD-M735 and a RD-M735.

My rear sockets are 28/24/21/19/17/14/12/11 (I think, I may have miscounted slightly), so 8 gears, but only seven of which are accessible.


texts:
Hoping someone can advise.

I recently ordered a Saris Fluid2 trainer, which requires me to use a special quick release skewer on the rear wheel.  However, my regular road bike is an old Acapulco Giant and the rear wheel is not on quick release hardware at all (photos below). I am not much of a cyclist and even less of a mechanic, under normal circumstances I'd just bring the bike in to my regular shop and have them do the switch, but at the moment we're completely isolated here at home.  Would really appreciate whatever advice you can give on doing the switch. Do I need to worry about the gears coming apart when I disassemble? Do I need any adapter hardware? What else do I need to know?

Thanks in advance

edited to add: I see that someone has already asked about using a trainer with an existing solid axle.  That is a super helpful question and answer but my original question - now also very well answered - was about swapping out the existing axle for a different one.


texts: What size are shimano MTB (wheel) hub ball bearings?

texts: I wish to replace the Ball bearings in my Shimano hubs. What is the standard sizing for MTB?


texts:
I know this is a frequent question in this forum...  To use a cliché "I've tried A, I've tried B. what do I do now?"...
I have a very persistent squealing from my front Tektro v brake, on my 5-yrs-old Trek Fx 7.4.  I've tried:

Cleaned the rim and pads , with isopropyl alcohol, then with brake cleaning fluid
Installed new pads, twice (two different brands)
"Toed in" the brake pads, tried more or less, even no, toe-in
Checked the wheels for true and play in the wheel's bearing (both OK)

... and no luck!  Front brake still shrieks like a banshee...  It seems like there is some play on the brake caliper... however on my wife's bike (similar model), there is some play but hers doesn't shriek at all.  What is the next step?  Should I replace the front brake set?  Try baby powder on rim?  Try cleaning the rim with fine steel wool?  Thanks for any help...


texts: Is it worth converting a steel frame Trek Roadie to a Cyclocross?

texts: I have a Trek Elance 330 from the 80s and love it!  However, I find myself needing something that can handle fire roads (gravel jeep paths) and am wondering if it is worth the effort.   Also, if it would result in an effective ride.  I am fine with the higher center of gravity, won't be doing any rock hopping, and won't be buying a new bike.  Has anyone converted their steel frame?  What experience can you share?  Thanks!  :)


texts: What is the standard diameter for BMX brake mounts

texts:
First of, these are the sort of brake mounts I'm talking about (though I believe the diameter is standard whether the mounts are removable or welded to the frame/forks):

What is the diameter on the shaft of the mount (marked in the picture with a C) where the brake arm is attached?


texts:
I know it is a Murray its serial number is M06 140 60056. It is chrome, had a 3 speed rear hub and triangular sears branded reflectors. I unfortunately didn’t take a pic before tearing it down.

And yes I turned the handlebars upside down. I’m intending on converting it into a motorized bike (I am keeping all the original parts just in case, though the rear will needs a few spokes).


texts: Replace bottom tubes of Marzocchi fork with rigid tubes?

texts:
I have a KHS Montaña Comp mountain bike with 26" wheels. It has a Marzocchi fork that is completely shot, both left and right side of the fork.

They hold no air, even spews oil and air if I move the suspension with my hand.

I looked up youtube videos about refurbishing, but in the videos, the top has a hex-nut that lets you take out the valve, but mine do not have that. I'm afraid that refurbishing this model Marzocchi is beyond amateur mechanic level? Professional refurbishing is probably expensive?

Since I use the bike for street riding, I want to replace it with a rigid fork. And I wonder if I can just replace the two bottom legs from a springed tube to a simple rigid tube that holds my wheel?

That way, I don't have to take off the entire fork assembly.

Or do I have to completely remove the whole thing, where it attaches to the steering and the frame?

I think the Marzocchi fork is an after-market part, I bought the bike used, and I don't think this bike came with one from the factory.

They look pretty hi-tech though, they have some dials at the bottom going 1-2-3-4 which the Marzocchi forks I see online do not have. Not sure what they are for, damping or stiffness setting?

Oh, and the bike has a rim-brake, which I guess complicates the whole matter even more, as not all forks support that?

UPDATE: I measured the Stanchions to be 24mm, and it appears that the model is Marzocchi XC500.


texts: Anyone know the pull ratios of Zee 10sp and XT 9sp Mechs?

texts: I'm putting a bike together from a load of spares and I'm having difficulty getting a shifter and derailleer to play well. I think the problem is the Zee mech. Does anyone know the pitch/pull ratio in MM of the XT shifter compared to the Zee shifter? Ideally an answer 'from the horses mouth' would be good as I've read all sorts of conflicting info.


texts: Bike advice quick release thru axle lever videos included

texts:
my thru axle was installed for the last time before breaking here
the installation thru axle before it broke

then after me explaining in the video and the issue as it stands now.
the issue

im looking for a solution to get this axle out, plan to go to shop monday.
the issue written which can be seen and heard in above videos.
Installed the thru axle i always do, attempted to take it out at a stand. the axle level came off, screwed it back on it just came off again.
im looking for a solution on how to remove  the axle out if anyone knows how.


texts: Are there mandatory bike paths in Netherlands?

texts:
Doing a trip in Europe. I know in UK the bike paths are optional. You can ride on them or you can ride on the road, whatever feels better for you.

Somebody told me that in Netherlands most bike paths are mandatory, not optional, but I can't find any information in English about it.


texts:
I have back and balance problems and am blind in one eye so DMV took my drivers license away. I have been looking at conversion kits to turn a bike into a trike.

None of the sellers have contacted have been much help on specifics of whether modifications can be made. I live on a very steep dirt road in the desert. I think that I need duel disk brakes on the back wheels and a differential. I will have to ride the brakes all the way for the first 1.5 miles. It is a 1 foot in 10 feet slope.

A recumbent trike will not do because I cannot take any pressure from the rear on my back. Sitting up right is not easy but I can do it. So I need to go slow down hill (dragging my feet is not an option). To go up hill I will need a very low (less than 1 to 1) gear. I mean walking speed low. And I have to do it on a low budget.

Does anyone have experience with the 7 speed bike to trike kits. Can the rear gears be changed. I figure I can put a really small gear on the front crank and a larger one on the back. Does that make sense? I found one manufacturer in Brazil who makes an 7 speed bike to trike adapter for reasonable price but have not gotten any response to my questions. Oh. I already know that I will not be able to make sharp turns at speed.


texts: I might just be overly paranoid, but does the line in the image (to the left of the glare) look like a paint scratch or could it be a sign of a spreading crack?


texts: My back brakes don't lock the wheel (skid): feature or a bug?

texts:
When I apply rear brakes only (I know this isn't the proper way to stop), it slows me down but never locks the wheel to the point of skidding (on dry pavement anyway). This is a new 'cyclocross' style bike with disc brakes. It has both regular road bike levers and auxiliary brake levers, if that matters. I am exerting quite a bit of force on the lever and they do not touch the handlebars (bottom out). It seems like a defect to me because that's not what I'm used to from my old hybrid bike with V-brakes, but having had it in the shop a couple of times, I'm starting to wonder -- are these brakes ineffective or is this a design feature to prevent skidding?

If this is a flaw, what is wrong - the brakes, the pads, the cables/adjustment or something else?

If it's a feature, how does it work?


texts:
How can I protect my bike against abrasion and scratches from bikepacking saddlebag straps?
It is mostly for a full frame bag, like the Apidura one.


texts:
Can anybody tell the specification of Novatec QR D812SB? I'm looking to buy used wheelset using these hub. Can I use Shimano 11 Speed using this?
I am looking at this https://issuu.com/novatecwheels/docs/novatec_hubs_guide_2014 but not sure how to read it.


texts: Can I glue circular pieces of some sort of uneven tiny metal heads, on every other knob of my mountain bike tyre, to bike in winter with snow and ice? If glue sounds too naive to some, there are some really professional hard to undo glues out there today, like those used in contruction work, that are super strong and anti-corrosion and sort of can be molded even and when dried they are like rock.


texts: Do I need a new rear derailleur if I get a bigger cassette?

texts: I'm considering changing my 10 spd Shimano 105 cassette to an 11 spd Ultegra cassette. Do I have to change the rear derailleur or can I use the existing derailleur? Can the existing derailleur be adjusted and shift to the additional cog? Are derailleurs "speed" specific - 10 spd derailleurs, 11 spd derailleurs? Same for chains? Are they different for different size cassettes?


texts: How can I fit 6 bikes on a hitch rack for my Toyota Sienna van?  Thank you!


texts: What is the labour cost or time involved in building a wheel. I want to use a different hub with an existing wheel


texts: The rear mechanical disc brake on my MTB makes a sharp intermittent scratching sound every time the wheel gets to a certain point in each revolution. The disc is true, so that is not the problem for sure. The brake is a Hayes MX5. Any adjustments I can make? The brake pads are pretty close to the discs, but I don't think they should be rubbing like that.


texts: Hi I currently ride a decent spec 2003 mongoose full suspension but I find that the seat stay is slightly too narrow to run my maxxis high roller 2 2.3 tyre without it rubbing on the frame. In theory if I was able to find an appropriate length seat stay of I wider fitting even if it's not for my frame would I be able to swap out the seat stay and thus run my wide tyres? I don't see an issue as long as the seat stays are the same length and have the same shock fitting and attachment to chain stay.


texts: Podium girls: when did they first appear?

texts:
This is a question related to competitive cycling. I would like to narrow it down to the historical aspect. I am interested in the political and social aspects, but I would gently ask to leave them out from the specific question asked here.

Does anybody know when and where the first podium girls appeared at a cycling race?
(I do not exclude answering myself the question in the near future, I am asking in case someone already did this research)


texts: Amount of spacers below the stem for steel 1 inch steel steerer

texts: I have a steel bike with 1 inch steerer tube made out of steel. I have about 55mm of spacers below the stem and above the top of headset. Is is safe to run my bike with that many spacers below the stem? I use it for mixed terrain riding, mostly road with occasional gravel mixed in.


texts:
I am going away on a cycling holiday to the Alps and need to take my bike on the plane with me. Has anyone had experience taking bikes on planes and how did you protect your bike?

Can anyone recommend anything which will solve this problem?


texts: Where can I find a 130 bcd single speed chainring with 58 or 60 teeth? I am attempting to setup a goldsprints setup using a very large front ring and a small rear freewheel.


texts: Rim brakes out of alignment and are unfixable

texts:
I have a persisting issue where the caliper rim brakes which contact the metal part of the rim are too high and instead rub against the tyre on my front wheel.
Previously, this issue persisted when I first got the bicycle. I got the brake caliper replaced but this did not fix it. I then replaced the wheel which solved the problem and the brakes were making appropriate contact to the metal rim.

Unfortunately, I crashed the bike a few days later. I crashed the front wheel into a pole and I went over the hoods. The brakes had the same issue where they were too high and made contact with the tyres. I tried solving the problem by truing the wheel, despite not having a truing stand and doing it for the first time, I have the wheel which was not extremely out of true initially but improved it to as true as possible. However, the brakes are still misaligned. Unusually, the brake position is uniform across the entire rim and does not change position unlike what is expected in a crash where there will be a specific area where there will be an issue.
(I have done all adjustments to the brake caliper as possible and moved them to the lowest possible position)

I have scoured the entire internet for a solution and similar problem yet have failed to find one.

Is there a possible fix to this? I've tried to visualise what the causes are but the only thing I can think of is that the wheel was either hit on all sides and consequently uniformly shrunk in size which is obviously not the case.


texts: Barrel adjuster for sram gx rear derailleur?

texts: I'm doing a bit of an unorthodox build right now. It's a specialized awol using a sram gx 1x11 drivetrain, but, because I'm running trp hylex discs, I've opted to use a sram s500 bar end shifter. An unforeseen issue is that the gx system places the barrel adjuster on the mtb shifters and omits them from the derailleur, while the road oriented Rival system omits the adjuster from the shifter and places it on the derailleur. Long story short, given my setup, I've got no barrel adjusters and getting the correct cable tension is killing me!! Is there a way to install an "after market" solution. It should be noted that the awol is setup for full length cable housing.


texts: Cruiser bike weird pedaling problems, feels like back tire moving

texts:
For awhile pedalling my bike has been getting increasingly difficult. First there was a squeaking. I figured maybe because I had put too much force riding uphill. Then there was a screeching cracking sound with the high squeaking. I saw there was just build up and figured that's why there was noises.

I bought oil and grease coated well, and fixed the problem. But then it go worse now the pedals will either get stuck and I have to reset, or it will be very loose feeling like the chain popped off.

Worst of all, now when I bring my foot down to pedal every down motion will make the bike feel like it shifts from the back tire moving left or right, not sure which way. But it's in a side to side motion. I don't feel it while walking the bike.


texts: Just found a vintage Sears & Roebuck 'Ted Williams' Free Spirit 3 wheeler. Can I modernize it?

texts:
It's been in my girlfriends back yard for years and I'm under the impression that it's a pretty uncommon bike because I can't find any information on it. Her stepfather spray painted a camo pattern on it, changed out the original handle bars and seat for some Mongoose crap, crashed it, then left it to rot. I just decided to make it a project and was wondering if anyone knew the specs on it and if I could use modern 24" BMX parts on it.

The only salvageable parts are the frame, rear axle, and basket frame (basket is MIA), it basically needs a complete rebuild and I thought it would be funny to turn it into a pseudo BMX bike. My biggest concern is finding modern wheels for the rear axel.

I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions as I get into this bike a bit more.


texts:
I am trying to find a bottle holder for this bottle.

I am open to building it if need be.

I am NOT interested in buying another bottle.


texts: Front wheel Fork is having scratches and Oil is getting leaked from it?

texts:
I thought that it might be a fault of Oil seal but Mechanic was telling that I have to replace both the fork If I replace only the Oil & Oil seal then again It will leak oil.

Is it a dangerous problem and should I replace both the forks?

Below is an image found on this blog
http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.in/2012/04/same-sad-story.html

Thanks.


texts: What does it take to damage an internally geared hub?

texts:
What behavior can easily damage an internally geared hub (Shimano Nexus or Alfine for example)?

can one jump off high (say 50cm) curbs?
can it be damaged by shifting gears under too much torque?
does water get in if it gets briefly submerged?
are there any dos and donts, any habits one has to change after using derailleurs?

Edit/followup question: are hubs with fewer gears more durable in general?


texts: Weird sounds from Sram GX crank / shifters?

texts:
When moving the chain backwards while bike is standing, I hear some weird sounds.. I made a playlist on youtube and would greatly appreciate some help :(. Video titles give more details.
Should it matter, crank and shifters are Sram GX. Rear is type 3 with roller bearing clutch. Crank also has bearings I think.. I am thinking they might cause the sounds :(
Also, the front shifter is badly aligned. However, I was noticing the issues in the 1x7/8 video (frequent sound + chain bump) even if I lifted the chain so it clearly had no contact with the shifter cage.. I think it is the crank's fault.. maybe the bearings.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLLyaOLAXFko4YjPCAMDDVqRE6C05b7waA
More often than I would like I also hear a snapping sound coming, I think, from the inside... I thought it is from the crank and might be related to the sounds/symptoms seen in the videos.


texts: Clunking noise only when pedaling at higher RPM not low RPM. Video of Issue linked

texts:
Bicycle Type: Gary Fisher Marlin Mountain Bike with 3x9 drive train.
Issue Description: When pedaling, there's a clunking noise emanating from what sounds like the cassette & hub interface but only at higher pedaling RPM.  The clunking noise doesn't occur when pedaling at lower RPM. Proper cassette lock ring tightness has been verified with a torque wrench, so the cassette isn't loose.  I have a video of the noise occurring only as pedal RPM increases to a certain speed:
Video Displaying Issue
Background Information: I think this clunking issue started after changing the tires on my bike. I went from a mountain bike tire (2.1" wide?) to more road friendly tires that are 1.9" wide. Could the weight difference of the tires be causing the slack in the drive train and clunking?  I verified that the chain isn't stretched with a chain stretch tool. The bottom bracket bearings/cranks are tight and quiet as well.


texts:
I'm casually researching building a 36er bike, preferably mountainbike style. I'm looking for the experience of others on this. I would like to own it more for curiosity sake than any other, but would still like it to ride reasonably well and not be ridiculously heavy.

Are there any frame builders in the US who can put together a decent alloy frame and fork to get me started on this project? Any experiences from others who have tried or succeeded in doing this?


texts:
I'm using a GoPro 9 set to "Looping", "Superview" mounted in a protective case on top of my cycle helmet. The video however is so speeded up as to be unusable as a cycle cam. I believe there was at least one firmware update while I was on the bench with an injury.
I turn it on using the "Quick Record" feature by pressing the "Record" button on top in lieu of the "Power" button on the side. This both powers the camera on and starts recording with a single button press.
Googling the problem only returned THIS, but I've checked the settings and neither "Time Lapse" or any other mode has been changed.
How do I record video at normal speed?!?!?


texts: Absoluteblack oval chainring doesn't completely fit GRX crankset

texts:
I'm trying to install an absoluteblack oval chainring on a GRX FC-RX810-1  crankset.
After assembling and tightening the bolts I noticed there's a gap between the chainring and the crankarm.
Basically, only 1 out of 4 bolts puts the chainring totally flush, the other 3 have about 1mm gap (see the photos below).
I'm wondering is this acceptable or should be considered a defect?
Thank you.


texts: 11/10 speed cassette remove 2 cogs to fit 9 speed hubs

texts: Is it possible to remove 2 gears in 11 speed cassette and fit to a 9 speed hub? or remove 1 gear in the case of 10 speed. my hub is Shimano WH-RS10 9 speed hub. My current cassette is sunrace 9 speed 11-28. I want to change it to a wider gear ratio and i am planning on using a 11 or 10 speed MTB (11-40) cassette then remove extra gears to fit on my 9 speed hub. My RD is sora GS,and i will also use roadlink to reach 11-40 set up. Thank you!


texts:
I have the new Tommaso (was Timmaso) Imola bike with Tommaso Corsa TC20 wheels.  The tire sidewall says "max pressure 90 psi"

The tire is the kenda 700x25c.

I am 5'9" 220 used to be a power-lifter so pretty heavy. Question is can I inflate them to closer to 120 psi due to my weight?


texts: What derailer hanger do I need? (screw on derailer is bent)

texts:
I'm hoping for some help with repairing my bike. My derailleur hanger snapped recently. I think it should be easy enough to replace with the right advice.

I have a picture of my previous hanger. It has 3 pins to attach to the frame. Does it matter if the replacement one looks the same yet only has 2 pins? Are they fairly universal?

If it looks the same like, this one on wiggle, would that mean they are the same? (i.e. the holes don't come at different widths apart?)

When my derailleur snapped, it came off with a lot of force and ended up bending a screw. Again, image attached. Can anyone tell me what this screw does and if being bent will be an issue? Also is there somewhere I can just buy a replacement screw if it's important and I can get it out. I would rather not have to replace the whole derailleur.


texts: I would like to strip down and replace components on my old 1994 Trek 950 mountain bike, primarily to replace the drive train, brakes, shifters and wheel sets. I would like to go from a 3x8 to a 1x11. What constrictions or constraints do I need to be aware of? Any advice?


texts: I would like to know whether I can replace my old v-brakes with disc brakes. Do I need to also change the wheels or something else?


texts: Can I reconnect a normal chain with a quick link

texts:
I have just mounted a chain, but I did it wrong and need to take it off. I have no more joining pins, but I have some spare quick links for this chain. Will they work even though the chain didn't come with them?
It came with a joining pin. I am asking because I don't want cut the chain for two inner ends and then realise it won't work.
Also, how can I mount them, if possible?


texts: Is there any rule of thumb for comparing lights rated in lux and lumens?

texts:
Currently, I'm using a front light rated at 35 lux on my bike. This is just about bright enough for my riding, but I'd like something a bit brighter. However, most of the lights which might be brighter are rated in lumens, rather than lux.

I'm a physicist by training, so I know the difference between 1 lux and 1 lumen and that you can't compare them directly - but that doesn't help me as I do need to compare them somehow. Is there any rule of thumb or something that I can use to work out which lights are actually brighter than my current light, or does the beam pattern of lights vary too much for this to be a sensible comparision in any way at all?


texts: Can I do brevets (long distance rides) on my hybrid bike? If yes, how to start?

texts: I have a hybrid bike with 27" large frame,  700c wheels and 35mm tires. Can I do brevets (long distance ride) on this bike? If yes, what are the points I should start working on to achieve this? Currently I am a beginner and riding around 40 minutes per day and little more on weekends.


texts:
While looking for a rear kickstand, I came across one which says "designed for steel frames".

Besides carbon frame which I am pretty sure cannot be "squeezed", is there a real difference among steel frames and aluminium frames that can account for different stands, or is it more a commercial thing?


texts: Bicycle helps in my exercise to lower cholesterol. Like the way it coast and how light it is.


texts: Whats the best advice to progress onto TT bars?

texts: Ive just started TT on my road bike and looking at slowly adding components to improve my time....aero bars seem next logical step but need some advice on how to progress? Thank you


texts: What's the idea behind the no-feeding-in-the-last-20-km rule?

texts:
I'm trying to understand the reasoning behind the no-feeding in the last 20 km rule. In the Tour de France 2020 Julian Alaphilippe lost his lead due to an infraction of this rule.
Might it be:

The competitors are in full sprint. It's too risky to be distracted by using one hand for food/drink.
It's unhealthy for the competitors, since for the food to be beneficial, it'll have to be pure glucose. There is too little time left to digest anything more complex, and if they don't get it exactly right, they could "hit the wall".
Food in the last stretch starts to act as a deciding factor. A team that discovers a concoction that provides an unfair advantage would win based purely on that food/drink, not the ability of the racers.

I'm sure the reasoning is well established. Is it also well known? More personally, does the rule matter for the amateur? Is there any reason why an amateur should not eat/drink in the last ~20% (if not 20 km) of a trip?
Update:

(The following thought emerges from Vladimir's and Weiwen's answers.) Might I have been sloppily confusing the verbs "feeding" and "feeding oneself", and might the rule be more easily expressible in the precision of French's distinction between reflexive and non-reflexive verbs? In other words, it is perfectly allowed to feed oneself ("se nourir") during the last 20 km. What's not allowed is to give (or take) food from someone else ("nourir"). The rule would be clearer if we start to split hairs and ask whether it's allowed for a helper ("domestique") to pass some food to a hungry (and more important) team leader during the last 20 km.

Gratuitous and unrelated comment/question, now that I'm noticing that all the cars clear out during the last 20 km: How do the cyclists tolerate inhaling the exhaust of so many cars during the race until the 20-km mark? It's one thing for a (gasoline) car to pass by; it's another to remain behind it—inhaling the discernibly worse air—for hours on end.


texts:
I'd like to upgrade my wheels but beyond the price, I'm not sure how to compare different options or even to tell if a given wheel is an upgrade or a downgrade from my current wheelset. I'm looking for an improvement in performance in aerodynamics, weight and reduced rolling resistance.

There's a huge array of wheels available. Ranging in price from $100 to many thousands. What do you look for in a quality set of wheels? I assume total weight is one of the most important factors, but I also imagine that low resistance in the hubs would be at least as important.

I have many questions:

What's the most important part of the wheel? Hub or rim? Or both?
How do you evaluate or compare different hubs?
How do you evaluate or compare different rims/spoke combinations?
Are there other factors I've missed?

EDIT: What I want to establish is that if I'm comparing two wheels in a showroom or looking at their technical specs, how do I tell which is better and whether they're good value for money or not.


texts: Is this the correct orientation of this type of negative plate?

texts:
The photos below are of an air spring from an '07 Fox 32 Alps Series fork. Likely an OE model, 100mm travel, and is an RL. I'm getting confused on the orientation of this type of negative plate. These are quite common.
I can't see any clues as to how it sits against the stop ring at the lower most part of the left stanchion. To be clear, it's the air springs negative plate.
I've watched Fox's video on FLOAT 32 fork maintenance. It's informative and they show the few variations in the air spring like the upper piston seals and the different types of negative plates used. During this part of the video, at the point where the demonstrating mechanic is removing this particular neg plate, he does it in such a way that it's impossible to see the orientation of it.
Further scenes just show the neg plates lined up with each other and the rebuild part uses a different plate from this one.
I'm afraid I wasn't paying attention enough to it's orientation--as the Fox video clearly advises--because I was rejoicing the removal of the retaining ring, which is not a simple snap ring, but a flat, spring like ring that needs to be pried from it's seat all along the inner circumference of the stanchion.
Getting that started was a POA as a good grip on the start tends to spin the whole ring around before enough force can get the end started out of the groove.
Can somebody give me the correct way this negative plate is to sit?
(


texts:
Which Circumference do you use on the speedometer (Cateye Strada Wireless) when running a larger rear tire versus a smaller front tire (25 verus 23)?  Does the larger tire determine speed, distance, etc. over the smaller tire?

Thanks,
George


texts: England Fix Your Bike Voucher Scheme: how not to miss the next release?

texts:
The UK government is running a Fix Your Bike Voucher Scheme in England which allows members of the public to receive a voucher worth up to £50 towards the cost of repairing a bicycle.
At the time of posting, the voucher scheme has been hugely popular and all vouchers in the first and second releases have now been allocated. - this is two days after the second release.
What can I do to make sure I don't miss the next release?
The scheme has this FAQ page which also includes a question to the same effect, and what does it do with it? Of course it dodges it! Come on, it's the government, what did you expect.
Note: I know this scheme opens several ethical questions: Should I apply or leave it for those more in need? Why doesn't the government allow notifications, or a waiting list, or a prove-your-need bidding system? This question is not the place to discuss any of this.
I can think of the following example answers:

A link to a website or forum where you can sign up to get notified,
A way of "sensing" a release approaching - perhaps someone with an understanding of government and book-keeping mechanisms knows that it can only be on a Thursday?

As a secondary question, why does it seem nobody has ever asked this question on any forum? I thought everyone would want to know? Is my question illegal or against the (undefined) spirit of the scheme?
Also, I have reservations about the wording of the Title of my question, especially the use of a negative "how not to". If you can improve it, go for it, and remove this line from the Body too.
Finally, I am conscious if this question is fit for this SE, but people seem to have got away with some much worse questions.


texts:
I'm looking for a bleed kit compatible with Tektro HD-R210 brakes.

I believe this is an OEM part - it doesn't look like there's a lot of information available for them. The levers are labelled to indicate use of Mineral Oil.

Would Tektro HD-R210 be compatible with Shimano bleed kits, or would I need a Tektro specific kit?


texts:
I have cannot remove the elastomer/spring adjuster assembly from the top of the forks.
I can remove the bottom of the forks.
You undo the assembly for adjusting the tension with a 10mm hex key. Inside this 10mm socket there is a smaller hex for adjusting the tension.
When I have the assembly undone and pulled out from the top of the leg it will only come out about 30mm and stops and there is a spring pulling it back in.
I found this diagram and it is nearly the same. but no hex used to undo the tension assembly or adjust it.
RST 381EL service manual


texts:
I was fixing a flat this morning and discovered that the tube was adhering to the tire casing. The tube pulled free from the tire, with about as much force as it would take to pull off well adhered (but not "baked on") masking tape.

I don't think I've ever encountered this before and I'm wondering if it is indicative of a problem?


texts:
I have a Giant Trace X3 2012

It has 26" rims. Which of these spokes type do I need for my bike? Strongest or best match for the spokes I already have.

DT Swiss Champion Stainless PG Spokes
DT Swiss Champion Stainless DB Spokes

thank you


texts: What 70's/80's freewheel threading is most common in central or eastern Europe?

texts:
Just interested to know?

For example, if an 80's steel frame road bike in Europe came with Suzue high flanged hubs (94mm spacing front and 126mm rear), what type of freewheel threading would be expected?

Specifically, Suzue Sat. No. 5 (94mm) front and Suzue Sat. No. 6 (126mm) rear.

Thanks


texts: Seems to me that the Q-factor for an external bearing bottom bracket will be greater than that of an equal size (say, 68mm road bike BB) cartridge bearing.  Is that the case?


texts: upsweep and backsweep for mtb handlebars

texts:
Characteristics of the following bars for MTB are:

• 780mm wide
• 30mm rise
• 5˚ up-sweep
• 7˚ back-sweep

I know what effects do the width and rise have on the feel and riding. But what about upsweep and backsweep?

For the last 2 years I've been using bars with 3x9 sweep (compared to the above's 5x7). What difference would it make?


texts: Problems with gears after re-attaching front chainring

texts:
I had to remove the pedal crank arm  together with the front chain set when fixing a bottom bracket problem, but now that I've re-attached it, gear changes in my front derailleur are completely off.

I think this is because the distance between the chain set and the frame changed slightly after I installed the crank arm back on. I used a crank extractor to take it off, is there another tool I need to use to make it as tight as it was before? Or is the new gap a normal occurrence and I just go ahead re-adjusting the gears?


texts:
Reading this question about the best way to lift a bike on to a pictured rack, it struck me that I'd be less worried about how to lift the bike than the potential for damage by hanging the bike from its front wheel's rim.

Many racks involve putting the rim into a trough or groove, or something like this attached to a wall:

Surely the danger from being struck from the side and bending the rim is quite large? For this reason I try to avoid any rack that I have to put my bike in rather than against or on.

While the concensus seems to be that public rack owners might not be liable for theft, might they be liable for contributory negligence if a bike is damaged directly as a design flaw in the rack?


texts: Is it worth buying carbon fiber road bike for short commutes?

texts: I'm planning to use a bike for rather short commutes (max half an hour), will the carbon fiber be noticeably more comfortable than aluminium one?


texts: Chain tensioner (or tug) for single speed QR dirt jump bike?

texts:
Recently i have started to learn no foots on dirt jumps, but i have noticed my cranks can sometimes spin in the air leading to some dodgey situations.

I believe having more tight chain would solve or help solve my issue of ghost peddling. But as i have a QR rear (with horizontal sliding dropouts) i am unable to get it tense enough by hand. Is there a way i could get some sort of (BMX style) chain tensioner?

Cheers.


texts:
I have a Trek FX3 with Bontrager AW1 Hard-Case Lite, 700x32c and I would like to know what the maximum tire pressure is? The reason I ask is when riding at higher speeds and turning it feels like the back tire is going to come off.

I found this article on bontrager tire pressures but it is unclear which precise model of tire I have as there is no combination of AW1 and Hard-Case Lite?

UPDATE

I inflated the tires to 85psi and the issue has gone away (they were at 55 psi).  Went on a 40 mile ride and noticed a significant improvement in the bike performance and stability.

Thank you for the help.


texts: Vintage 1979 Peugeot roadbike rear derailleur change

texts:
Hello guys, The rear derailleur (6 speed) on my bike (picture attached) shattered all of a sudden while biking uphill after a few months of problems with the chain not fitting immediately on the cassette when I shift gears.

The derailleur's mark is Simplex (made in France). Could you please guide me as to whether I should replace it with a Simplex or can I go with Shimano or something else? what are the characteristics I should be looking for when buying the new derailleur.

Thank you for getting back to me and for taking into account that I am a first-time bike owner (no experience in parts and repairs)

Cheers!

Nagi


texts: Exchange FSA K-Force Light chainset with a SRAM RED

texts: I'm the lucky owner of a  Fuji SST 1.0 from 2010 (mounted with a Shimano press-fit bottom bracket). I would like to exchange the front chainset from a FSA K-force 53/39 to a SRAM RED 50/34. Can you help me to what bottom bracket I need to purchase and get fitted?


texts: Is it acceptable to wear kit from old team?

texts: When I was in college I was on the club cycling team and it was fun, I went to a good share of races, was pretty involved with the team, etc.  Now I'm out of college and it's a few years later...is it acceptable for me to wear my old university team kits when I'm out riding casually on my own or with a few friends (not at events)?


texts:
I was given few options to choose the handlebar size for my future road bike. The frame size is 60cm but for the handlebar I have these options:

40x90,40x100,42x100,42x110,44x110,44x120

I measured myself from shoulder to shoulder and it's 44cm, so there are only two options for me. The problem is that I don't know what the second number mean.

The bike is for daily use and some events/triathlons, but most of all is for daily use.


texts:
I just purchased a new aluminum MTB frame. The headset is a standard "NECO, 142, 1-1/8” AHEAD". The BB is ... I'm not sure, but is internal and threaded.

How do I determine if I need to face or ream my new frame, before pressing in headset cups and installing the BB?


texts: Can I use a derailleur hanger in my old frame?

texts:
I'm trying to adapt an old '83 Fuji Del Rey frame with the parts of my broken '86 Fuji Espree and I'm having problems adapting the Derailleur.

The Del Rey frame doesn't come with the little hook where the derailleur was in the other frame and I'm wondering if I can adapt a derailleur hanger to it.
I've done research but there are a lot of different models and I don't know how to evaluate.

Is there a generic one that can be attached directly to where the wheel goes?

Thanks in advance!

This is a detail photo of the Espree:  http://i.stack.imgur.com/OrfAJ.jpg

And this is a detail of the Del Rey with my wheel on it. (I realized it's not very clear, I'll upload new pics as I get home)

http://cl.ly/IaY5/IMG_2724.JPG


texts: Riese Muller with Bosch performance CX not engaging immediately

texts:
since the firmware in my ebike engine Bosch performance CX gen 4 has been updated, I am noticing a strange beahviour, that is, when pedalling, the engine (or the rear wheel pawns) will not engage immediately.
Similar to this. Sort of a gap before the engine kicks in. The issue will show in a very perceivable manner when riding:

When the bike is moving already, you stop pedalling
The bike keeps moving
You start pedalling again - this is when the defect is perceivable

Now, I am not sure 100% if this was happening before, as the firmware update, which added more torque, might enhance a beahviour which wasn't initially perceivable with less torque.
So I went to an authorised Bosch service support, and they got in contact with Bosch in Germany, who asked them to make some tests, but from their point of view there's no issue on the engine.
The man at the service thinks that the issue could be due to either:

A different freewheel pawls number in the rear freehub and the engine ones
A low freewheel pawls number (31) in the rear freehub. As for this, the man said that freewheel pawls in professional grade freehubs can go up to 400, ensuring the "grip" is immediate without any gap when you begin pedalling.

I really don't understand why this "gap" was not noticeable before the engine firmware upgrade, but I am quite unhappy as for this feeling...
The chain has been replaced two weeks ago after 1400Km, and it's difficult to say id this defect happens when the engine is off. The bike shift is a derailleur.


texts:
What is the difference between these two rear derailleurs?

On the pictures it seems, that the "rotation angle" is different.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney.html

On the item descriptions, all details are absolutelythe same.


texts: Shimano integrated shifter/brake: Cantilever compatible with V-Brake?

texts:
I have to replace an integrated shifter/brake, right side, 7 speed Shimano STX.

Is a shifter for V-brake (e.g., this) compatible?

Bobotech recommends here not to do such replacement.

This question is related to my broken shifter spring one


texts: Shifting 1>2 does nothing, shifting 2>3 puts me into 2nd. What's wrong?

texts:
I'll be in first gear on my front derailleur, and shift up to 2nd. Nothing will happen at all. Then I'll shift up to 3rd, and I'll finally switch into second. 3rd gear is inaccessible.

What could be the cause of this issue? Cable too slack? Limit screws in wrong positions? What should I adjust to try and fix this? I've been trying different things but I'm clueless here so I thought I'd ask for advice from people who actually know.


texts: Why does my brake keep pinging out and almost killing me?

texts:
My back brake (top picture) is clamped down, as it should be. The quick release on the front won't stay down. I have tried loosening the cables, tightening them, nothing works. As you can see in the gif at the bottom, it keeps springing back.

I've decided enough is enough. I braked hard while going down a hill and the front brake just pinged open. Not good. I didn't get hurt, but it's only a matter of time.

Why is this? What can I do? just get a new front mech?


texts: spoke end poking out of rim, thinking it may be reason why Im getting flats

texts:
When I run my hand on the inside of the rim, I can feel a protrusion of the spoke end going into the rim. Is that normal?

I have been getting about 5 or 6 flats, and they sometimes occur on the same place, but sometime on totally different place of the tube. I went to my local bike store, and he said to replace the inside rim tape. I had a black rubbery rim tape, and he made me replace it with a white, almost looks like its made out of cloth, rim tape. I put the new rim tape and a new tube but still got a flat.

Then I got frustrated that I needed to patch the tube again and put electrical tape two times over the inside rim, after which I wrapped the new rim tape around again. I finally got another flat in a totally different place and am not sure what to do any more. When I try to match the location on the rim to the hole, I can see that it roughly corresponds to a spoke end sticking out, and there is nothing on the tire when I run my fingers through it. The wheel is pretty old, I got it from a bike restoration shop. The holes in the tube are very small, the only way that I can find them is by filling a container with water and running an inflated tube through it. The tire I have is a Panasonic I got maybe 2 or 3 months ago.

What kind of rim should you have to put the black rubber rim tape and what kind of rim tape should you have when using the white cloth-like rim tape?


texts:
I purchased a 2018 Giant Quick e+ for commuting.  Giant uses a modified yamaha PW-X system they have branded "syncdrive pro".  The bike is great but the headlight it comes with stinks.  I would like to drive a light with more lumens off the battery. The yamaha system uses a 36V battery that it drops down to 6V for the headlight (and presumably the tail-light).

For the 6V systems there are some options including lights from lupine SL S Yamaha E-Bike Light (500 lumen) and supernova mini2 (235 lumen).  I am getting one of of lupine lights to see if 500 Lumen is enough.

The question: I am not sure why Yamaha decided to use 6V internally, except for perhaps cost.  You can buy a 36V DC to 12V DC converter that is waterproof. IF installed the converter (and find a place for it) it seems reasonable that I could rewire the bike to use a 12V light. This would let me have a light that drives up to 1100 lumens.  Am I completely nuts or is this reasonable?


texts: Connecting and disconnecting clipless bike shoes from Shimano pedals

texts:
I bought my first pair of clipless bike shoes (Northwave MTB) and pedals (Shimano 8100).  The connection is SPD, since they're MTB shoes.
I had them show me in the store how to connect and disconnect the shoes:

to connect: first push the cleats forward into the pedal and then press down hard on the heel of the shoe to connect the back part
to disconnect: push down hard on the heel of the shoe and then rotate the heel outward

I didn't manage to get it working in the store and after a while I decided to try it at home, since I wanted to leave the store due to a long time in an enclosed space in these Covid times.
My question is: is it possible to break the cleats/shoes/pedals if I do the motions wrong?  If so, what do I want to do (apart from the motions listed above), and what do I NOT want to do?
Thanks for the help and any other suggestions!


texts: Bosch Nyon range estimates are unreliable

texts: I have a Bosch Nyon computer and after charging the battery I very often get a range (in eco) of +/- 230, 220 km which is adjusted downwards by 1/3 after 1 km. When I don't have this high range after charging, I arrive on destination with more range then at the start. Planning a trip is very difficult, I have no idea how far I'll get. Even after 6 months of use every day is different in range (on the same roads in similar conditions). I wonder if some of you have the same experience and what was done about it? Is there a battery or engine-problem or is the Nyon itself the problem?


texts: Cause of broken spokes (pictures included)

texts:
I never had this problem before. Two spokes on the drive side of my road bike's rear wheel broke at the J bend, and I'm trying to identify the cause. The wheel has 32 spokes total, made of steel, laced in a 3 cross pattern, and each spoke has a width of 2mm across all its length.
The first one broke when I accelerated hard at a green light, and the second one when I got home and squeezed the spokes with my hands to check their tension. I assume they were fatigued/damaged beforehand, and the rest of them are too, which will keep breaking if I continue to ride the wheel.
I didn't do any jumps, and I weigh 68kg (150 pounds). But I did lots of climbing (which shifts more weight to the rear wheel), descending (which puts lateral stress on the spokes when leaning into corners), accelerations, and some occasional gravel riding. The 35mm wide tires were always inflated to 65-85 psi.
1000km ago, the wheel got slightly out of true (2mm at most) after being ridden for about 1500km. So I trued the wheel, adding a bit more tension to the spokes at the same time. I don't have a tension meter, but it seemed pretty tensioned, similar to the other wheels I have now or had in the past (not all of them built by me) which never had any issues. The wheel remained true until the spokes broke.
I'm not sure whether the spokes are bad quality, the hub is, or both. The spokes seem to have bitten into / enlarged the holes in the aluminium hub, and I don't know if that's normal.
Is it fine to replace all the spokes, or is the hub faulty and is better to buy an entire new wheel?
Here are some pictures:


texts: What should the torque of an expander plug in a carbon fork be?

texts:
What torque should be used for the expander plug in a carbon fork?

This one shows 8NM, which seems high
Manufacturers rarely seem to supply this information, yet tightening too much could damage the steerer.


texts:
I recently bought a used trekking bike (Focus) to commute to work in Berlin.

It's a great bike, and now that the weather is a little wetter I'm finding that the fenders it came with aren't quite covering the wheels like I would like. About every two weeks they come out of alignment and I have to adjust the screws/bend the stays to get it to cover the wheel again.

Any tips for getting them to stay put? I've adjusted them three times now and it's getting old.

EDIT: I'm not sure the exact brand/model but the rear has 1/2 diameter coverage and the front has about 1/3 diameter coverage.

Material: black plastic

Attachment system: like these:

Or these Planet Bike ones:


texts:
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/city-of-toronto/felt-z4-carbon-road-bike/1497484952

That's the bike, I'm just concerned about the carbon frame repair.

Seller said he did it himself and has done many frames before, and can guarantee its lifetime in writing.

Are there any specifics I should look for when I examine the bike ?

How do I know it is safe to ride ?


texts: 26 x 1.75 front wheel will work on a bike with a 26 x 1.95 rear wheel size?

texts: I got a 26 x 1.75 front wheel. Tire and tube 26 x 1.75. Upon further inspection, (I got confused) The existing rear wheel and tire is 26 x 1.95. Will the front wheel size be  okay to use?


texts:
I have somewhat oddly shaped feet; They're very wide and my big toe on either foot points slightly inwards. Shoes with pointed toes generally cause me a lot of pain, so finding a road shoe has been somewhat difficult.

Typically, I buy shoes that are slightly too big, and I'm wondering how this will affect cycling shoes. I'm looking at a leather pair that has an extra inch of room in the toe, and lacing them up very tightly seems to do the trick for now, but I'm worried they'll stretch with time and become too big to hug my foot tightly.

Has anybody had similar problems finding cycling shoes? Any recommendations for a wide-toed shoe, or some brand specifically known for conforming to your foot over time?


texts: Do kickstands damage the frame by being used?

texts: I was told once that kickstands warp the frame when used, especially when the bike is laden down, and that some materials are more susceptible to this than others. Is there any truth to it?


texts: Brifters for Shimano Acera M3000 9 speed

texts:
I'm trying to find out if I can swap the handlebar on this bike
Trek Lync 3 for a dropbar one. It has 9 speeds and Shimano Acera M3000 rear derailleur. Would any Shimano 9 speed brifter work? (wishful thinking I guess)
What options do I have?

Thanks!


texts: Can a broken/split chain be reassembled?

texts: I am considering getting a new front derailleur. Since the derailleur is riveted together so far as I can tell, it looks I will need to break the chain. The chain doesn't have a master link, so I'll need to use a special tool to push one of the pins through. After I do this, will I be able to secure the chain back together after I install the new derailleur?


texts:
I'm at a loss on the manufacturer of this frameset, any ideas are appreciated.

Its previous owner claims it is 50+ years old and was bought in Chicago 46 years ago.

Bike has Nervar Star crankset, Pivo bar and stem, and Simplex gear change. Also a French saddle. Frameset as shown with Campagnolo drops, wrap around stays, long point lugs, and flat crown.


texts: Why do my pedals move when I move my wheel in both directions? How do I fix it?

texts:
Whichever direction I rotate my pedals, the wheel rotates. And when I move the wheel, same thing. How do I fix it?

Here is a clip:

This is the model:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_786803_langId_-1_categoryId_165499


texts: Hydraulic to mechanical conversion - cable routing

texts:
A family member has asked me to convert their hydraulic disk brake system (an old Hayes So1e) to cable disk brake. I believe the bike is only going to be used casually, so performance isn't paramount, it just needs to work.

The image shows the hydraulic hose for the rear brake running along the middle of the top tube. What would be the best way to implement a cable? The tube is slightly square shaped, so I think it would be difficult to fit a clamp-on cable stop (and would also interfere with the gear cables). If I omit cable stops, use uninterrupted housing for the whole length and use zip ties to secure it to the frame, I'm thinking there might be issues using barrel adjusters.


texts: Square taper crankset develops play after changing bottom bracket

texts: After replacing a bottom bracket with square taper I repeatedly have to tighten the screws that fix the crankset (on each side) to the bottom bracket axle or otherwise I can feel sometimes a slight movement of the crankset on the axle. I understand that this might be needed once or twice for parts to really settle in but I wonder how common that is or wether there are tricks to avoid it. This is an old Shimano crankset and a new Shimano bottom bracket. Since the screws are not very long (about 10mm of thread) I also fear I could damage them in the process.


texts: Proper Posture for Preventing Painful Posteriors on Penny-farthings?

texts:
After riding relatively short distances (about five kilometers), I’ve developed a literal pain in the rear. I suspect the hard seat is the primary culprit, and I’m sure I’ll be able to replace with something more sensible. That’s a no-brainer.

Is there a proper posture to help alleviate or minimize the bumpiness inherent in the system? I’m concerned that this may evolve into an affliction of the lower back. That would be unfortunate as I’m enjoying the ride and from up on high, but not the consequences down low.


texts: How to keep a huge cargo bike safe in the city?

texts:
I have been biking for transportation and pleasure the whole time I've lived in Chicago, and I'm familiar with the basics of locking up and storing my commuter bike.

Yesterday I added a Yuba Mundo to my stable because I'm getting rid of my car and I'd like to still be able to go places with passengers. I rode it to the grocery store and was just barely able to lock it to the bike rack there, and only because one whole side of the rack was free.

A U-lock won't fit around both the frame and a locking-post because I can't get the frame close enough to the locking-post. I've been using Kryptonite cables to tether it to a post, and then locking the U-lock through the cable, frame, and front wheel. I also plan to cover it with a tarp when it's parked on my patio, to keep birds off it as well as to hide it a bit from would-be thieves. Next to the giant tubes of the Yuba, the Kryptonite cable looks like a little thread.

I can't park this thing indoors because it won't fit inside most places (including my third-floor walk-up) and it has me laying awake at night worrying that the cable will be cut.

What other steps besides locking it to itself, cabling it to a post, and covering it with a tarp should I take to ensure the safety of my bike, both at home and out and about?


texts: What is the difference between Rockshox Pike RCT3 and others?

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I could not find any reliable source. I saw that RC version is OEM only, but we could find it on online stores. Some said that RC lock has just 2 settings (normal, locked) and RCT3 has 3 (open, trail, locked). Some others say that this is just cosmetic, the inner damper is the same, and you could place lever in mid position to get the trail.

Can anyone answer to this with sources ?

Thanks


texts: How can I fit Schwalbe Marathon Plus 28-622 tires on a 622-16 rim?

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I am having difficulties installing Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires (ETRTO 622-28 700x28C) on Jalco DRX-20 rims (16-622). If I am reading the Sheldon Browns tire sizing guide correctly, this is not a problem with tire width. I've tried this technique but the tire is too stiff to install it without levers. Last time I did it I broke two composite levers, this time I pinched two tubes. Previously I had a slightly wider rim (perhaps 18-622, but don't remember exactly) and while it was a little tricky to get them on, it was still do-able even without levers, whereas now I am thinking it's not possible. Is there any other tricks for how to get the tire on the rim? Could width be a factor in how difficult it is to fit?
I'd be grateful for any advice.


texts: Why does my bike make too much sound if I am in the top 3 gears in the back and large gear in the front?

texts: I have a Cannondale Synapse SE 105. Whenever I go downhill I tend to shift into combination of top (smallest ring) gears in back and large gear in front. My bike just makes so much amount of noise every time I try to pedal in these combinations (I think the chain is rubbing on front derailleur). Can anyone please help me on how to eliminate this sound?


texts: Are there statistics on cycling trip distances?

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Prompted by a comment on a recent question about weight loss I started to wonder: for people who ride bikes at least sometimes, what's the distribution of maximum distances?
This has also come up in discussions among distance riders about cycling infrastructure for mass use.
Or, to put it another way, how abnormal are those of us who like to ride a long way?

Ideally this would be a survey of the maximum distance people have ridden/typically ride, but as that's unlikely, it's be interested to see anything that sheds light on the question. While I'm in the UK, an international picture would be more, not less, interesting.

I've seen some UK stats from cyclinguk and some walking & cycling UK national data, but they are either based on acceptable commuting distances or don't capture variation.


texts: Magura MT7 on Commencal Meta AM V4.2 Race

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I would like to mount a set of Magura MT7 brakes on my Commencal Meta AM V4.2 (Race) with 200mm discs front and rear and a RockShox Lyrik Fork.

Which adaptors do I need?

Is there anything else to care about?


texts: How to estimate how long a tour will take? (UK to Greece)

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If someone of moderate cycling abilities, and pretty good fitness tried to cycle to Greece from eg. London; how long would it take approximately. Assuming around 8 hours of cycling a day?

And please (for future users) explain how you did the calculation and link to any on-line tools or resources you used.


texts: Upgrade options for hybrid Scott Sub10 bars?

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I currently have a flat bar on a hybrid bike (the Scott Sub10). It's a great bike, and I had the saddle height and angle adjusted at the store, so I've got the right leg angle on the down stroke and this, that, and the other, too.

I commute about 2-5 miles per day, depending on errands, and my body positioning tires me. I put a lot of my body weight forward, and as a result my arms and shoulders are tired at the end of the ride and my hands hurt. I don't think this is a result of the bar stem height being too low, though.

Anyway, I spoke to a guy at my local bike shop and he told me that trekking bars would be a little out of the question, but he wouldn't say why. I suspect it is because of the brake/shifter system. Only when pressured would he reveal there were bar ends to give drop hand positions. What's so bad about these?

Essentially I'm asking for some corroboration here. I want to know if bar ends are the best choice, or if I can do something like a trekking bar and be better off, or if even I can adjust the bike somehow. (A full drop bar being out of the question due to price)


texts: What is the science behind interval training?

texts: How did coaches/scientists come up with specific interval training programs like X sets of Y intervals at Z heart rate/power, lasting T seconds? How are these numbers produced? Are these trial and error, is there good science behind them?


texts:
My rear Shimano MT500 hydraulic disk brake has acting up for a while. After doing a full bleed and new set of pads it would be fine for about 2 weeks then start rapidly losing performance and screeching. I did this a couple of times to see if the problem would appear in the same way which it did, noticing oil on the pads each time.

I put a bit more time into bleeding the rear brake again - now when the brake lever is pushed fluid seeps out of the bleed port. This is happening even with the cup still on the lever and the system still open! Surely the pressure should be releasing from the top port which is open?

During the bleed I noticed when I pulled back on the bleed port syringe there as a lot of small bubbles and it felt like no air would release and the pressure would snap the syringe handle back in, though it seemed fine when pushing fluid out towards the brake lever. Could something be blocked?

I'm supposed to traveling with this bike on Saturday so I'm not sure if its worth just purchasing a new back brake now in case it's unlikely to be repaired on time? It's cheap enough to be worth it if required though I'd likely have to fit it myself in this timeframe, which I've not attempted before though does appear somewhat straightforward (though so did brake bleeding!).


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I’ve recently got my hands on an old steel frame which I’ve decided to turn into a bit of a build project. I’ll be honest though, whilst I’ve ridden for many years, beyond basic maintenance my knowledge of bike mechanics is almost zero :(

The main issue i that I have been unable to identify the make of the Frame. It’s had several re-paints and when I finally got it back to bare steel the only ID number (On the down tube) doesn’t seem to adhere to any of the manufacturers standards. This makes getting the correct parts a little difficult

My first task is to source and fit a bottom bracket. The shell itself is 34 MM Diameter by 68MM wide and is threaded so will, in theory, take a standard threaded BB i guess. But how do I know which thread do go for? Is there an easy way to distinguish between British and Standard thread?

Next up is, what’s the optimum spindle length? I’m planning to make the bike Single Speed and have replaced the Rear drops with Track Fork ends (I adjusted the spacing to 120MM between the frame to take a standard SS or maybe a flip flop hub) but haven't fitted anything yet so not sure how far this will offset from the frame.

Any (low tech) advice people are willing to offer would be gratefully received

Cheers


texts: Is it okay for this wire/cable to be hitting my pedal?

texts: This little piece is sticking out. This is my first bike and I was wondering if it’s a problem or I should try and attach it to the bar or if it’s okay to be like that?? Help I’m new to the bike world.


texts: How can I adapt a mountain bike for a one or two week tour?

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This is the situation. I have GT Agressor 1.0 mountain bike. I want to travel for about a week on my bike, which means that I will have to ride a lot on paved roads (around 70% of the road). So I would like to make the proper adjustments on my GT to improve my speed and make it lighter. Once I come back I'd like to recover my mountain bike. One additional point that is worth mentioning: to buy another bicycle for that specific purpose is not an option.

Said that, the question would be: how can I (temporarily) convert my mountain bike into a touring bike?


texts: Soma Wolverine: Ultegra crank with Shimano XT cassette?

texts: I'm hoping to pair a Shimano XT cassette (11-42) and an Ultegra crank (50-34t). Would this work for a Soma Wolverine v2.1 (someone mentioned this wouldn't do for "road cranks on mountain bikes") ?


texts: I need help with identifying my 26" cruiser, no ID markings, I built it 25 years ago and could be 15+ years older than that.. TIA

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Bottom bracket and rear brake (click for larger):

Bike frame and chainring (click for larger):

head tube (click for larger):


texts: How much cheaper is cycling than driving?

texts: How much does a rider spend, on average and totally, with the bicycle per unit-distance? And with the car per unit-distance? Are there any official or academical data?


texts: Can I change the rear cassette on a folding bike?

texts: I currently have a folding bike (think Dahon like) with 20" wheels and a front chainring of 52T and a rear cassette of 14-24T. Although 14 provides me with good speed I'd love to get faster speed for less spinning. I found a 7 speed cassette that is 11t-28t (Shimano HG30-7 which is 11t,13t,15t,18t,21t,24t,28t) and wondering if just switching the cassette would work or if I'd also need to switch out the rear derailleur as well (I think it is a Shimano TZ-21) and potentially also the chain (longer?)?


texts: Cable routing and why is there no optimum solution

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This is a general question, regarding the routing of the cables of both brakes and derailleurs on a frame.

I find it highly practical to mount all cables along the bottom of the top tube. This offers the following advantages:

The wide down tube protects the cabling from mud and gravy, originating at the front tire
The top tube can support weight e.g. sitting* there or supporting luggage.

What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes? I am most puzzled the combined scheme "2 cables on bottom of the bottom tube + 1 cable on top of the top tube".

* one of my pleasant habits is, when there are no free seats in the park and the grass is wet, sitting on the front tube, with the bike tilted, one hand on the brake and the other holding a beer


texts: Can I patch a tire (not a tube) that has a hole?

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I've got a relatively new bike tire (hard case Bontrager) that got punctured by a nail. So now the tube bulges out of the tire and is of great risk of bursting (though I biked several miles before realizing this).

I'm wondering if it is possible to patch the tire?  If so, how would you do this?

I'm guessing you'd want a non-stretchable patch.


texts: Why are some chainrings specs appended with an 'a' or 's'

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Shimano 22s x 32s x 44a

Why isn't that 22x32x44t ? What does the 's' and 'a' stand for in this case


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My 2017 Liv Envie has 'V' style proprietary brakes (Giant Speed Control). Recently they've been making a clattering sounds when they engage the carbon wheel. This is happening on both the front and back wheels. Any ideas why?

Thank you!


texts: Surly Pugsley bottom bracket replacement

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Does the bottom bracket on Surly Pugsley need to be replaced with a like for like  surly part (100mm external bottom bracket) or will any 100mm external bottom bracket be compatible..?

The surly part is quite expensive compared to some other brands, but I can't be certain that they are compatible with the Surly O.D. crank.

First time doing this job, apologise for any ignorance.

Appreciate any insight.


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Do I need a road bike to go fast, my average mph is normally around 11 - 12mph according to strava & fitbit

The thing is I normally overtake most people, and some cars when I'm going downhill, except the roadies who seem to blast past.

I'm riding a Boardman CX converted to flat bar for the better MTB disk brakes.

I ride about 15 miles per day on my commute to work and back.

Do I just need to loose some weight or add some strength to my legs ?

I ask the question because I see the threads where people are saying they ride 20mph + as average.


texts: ETRTO size tolerance - can I mount a 62-203 tire instead of 54-203?

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The title says it all.
Cannot find any 54-203 where I live, but plenty of other sizes for 203 rim diameter.


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Can I use a road 11spd Shimano road cassette with a Deore XT rear hub? Or, if not, can I use an 11spd MTB cassette with 105 R7000 derailleurs?

Basically I have a Soma Fog Cutter frame and I need to use a 135mm rear hub but I want to use 105 R7000 components otherwise. Will this work?

Thanks!


texts: Bottom Bracket - Drive Side is Stuck, what to do please?

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I'm trying to remove a sealed cartridge BB. I've removed both cranks and the non-drive side (plastic) came out fine.
The drive side is stuck solid - I know it's reverse thread on the drive side and I have the correct tool(s).

I only have a basic tripod work stand and I've been whaling on it very hard but it wont budge at all! I'm thinking of longer lever arm with a piece of pipe or something.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Is white spirit a too aggressive degreaser?

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Talking with a friend about maintenance on bikes, he told me he uses white spirit to degrease the chain, as it is effective and also offer some kind of waterproofing in case one forgets to lubricate the chain again.

Talking with my bike dealer he advised to not use it, as it is too aggressive and would also remove the lubrification from within the chain bearings. He suggested using a dedicated soap.

Who is right?


texts:
My MTB is due for a tire replacement. I'm also trying to get into long distance biking. Budget is a big concern right now but also I don't want to have to replace my tires so soon.

Is it worth getting the cheapest tire? Not really doing cutting edge stuff so proprietary lug design or w/e don't apply I think. I do want some slicks.


texts: pairing a Duotrap sensor the the ibike Newton

texts: Is a Duo-trap speed/cadence sensor compatible with an I-bike Newton head unit? I can't make it pair up. I've tried keeping it a decent distance from other sensors and have tried resetting it, and changing batteries.


texts: What sort of bottom bracket does a Trek 1.5 2011 take?

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My bottom bracket is on its way out.. No longer getting smooth rotation even without chain attached. I was wondering if anyone knew what sort of bottom bracket the frame supports? I've googled but the results are fairly mixed.

Also I assume I just need a special bottom bracket wrench to replace it, is that correct?

Cheers,
John


texts:
as I contemplate reducing reach by either 1/ shortening my stem or 2/ shortening my dropbar's reach, I have some questions about whether approach 1 or 2 will have a greater difference on my bike's handling.
So, would love the group's opinion on this theoretical question: Will all 3 of these handlebars steer the same? All have the same vertical and horizontal distance from the stem.


texts: Anyone using studded bike tires on a commuter in milder climates?

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I'm in the Pacific Northwest, Washington State, and I bike commute year round 5 miles each way. At my previous gig and rental, I had the fairly easy option of walking the 1.4 miles to work. I'm less sanguine about a 5 mile walk. Local bus service isn't ideal at my new gig and rental.

I have a 2008 Kona Dew with fenders and 32mm tires. Without fenders, I could run 38s easily, maybe something larger.

Been reading about studded tires on Peter White Cycles for a couple of years, and now I'm weighing the options. Some indications this is going to be a rough winter.

I'm torn between a couple of choices.

Putting "mild" studded tires on my Kona, like Nokian A10 32mm, and keep the fenders on
Getting a Craigslist or Pawn Shop MTB and putting aggressive studded tires on it as a snow bike
Getting a Craigslist or Pawn Shop MTB and putting aggressive winter tires on it as a snow bike

We don't get nearly the snow in Washington that they get in New Hampshire, but it does hit now and again.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp


texts: Getting back on bike after wrist fracture

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Does anyone have experience of getting back riding a road bike after fracturing wrist?

I am 3 weeks away from my cast being taken off.

I am wondering how much time I should wait before going back fo a ride?


texts: I want to change the tyres on Voodoo Marasa

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I could be completely wrong but, replacing the default tyres that came with the bike (Kenda K948, 700 x 40c) with something slick would make the ride easier?

I see guys with road bikes or other bikes push past me with ease while I feel like I am struggling. The only thing I noticed is the tyres, correct me if I am wrong.

On a completely different note, if I can replace, what tyre sizes should I look at?

I use this bike purely on road to commute from home to work

EDIT: Thanks guys for all the response
@Criggie, the max psi on these tyres is 85


texts: Combining a Dynamo hub with a single speed geared hub setup

texts: In theory, can you build a dynamo hub, say a SON, with a fixie/single speed gear, all mounted in the same hub and wheel? I will be building a touring rig with an extra wheel trailer and I would like to generate power on the trailer hub but also have it as a backup front OR rear wheel in the case of a disaster.


texts: Installing a rigid fork on a commuter MTB

texts:
Motivation:
This answer says that installing a rigid fork on a frame, designed for a suspension, changes the geometry. Most answers to my question about rusted-out suspension recommend installing rigid suspension for riding in the rain and snow.

The question:
What changes to the feel of riding should I expect when changing a low to medium (80-100mm) travel suspension fork for a rigid fork? My bike is this one:


texts: How do i know which wheels will fit my bike?

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my bike is: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/xtc-27dot5-2-2014 and everything I have came with the bike, only now the axle of the rear wheel bent and the skewer has lost its grooves.

and I would like to replace the rear wheel with the 12 x 142mm version of:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/easton-ea70-xl-mtb-rear-wheel/rp-

I want to reuse the old casettes and disc break. I was told to buy new rotor bolts, will these do? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/hope-steel-disc-rotor-bolts/rp-prod9950

Will I be able to migrate all my previous parts onto this new wheel and will the wheel fit onto my bike?

update:
A replacement axle would be prefered. What axle would work for my bike?


texts:
I want to know more about KERS for bicycles...
I have a question. What will happen if we attach the flywheel on front wheel? Does it make any difference?
Please reply me.. I preparing this as my minor project of M.E 6th sem... Please provide some guidence...


texts: Is a 16 grams CO2 cartridge enough to inflate a 29" mountainbike

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I used to ride a 26" mtb, but now I'm switching to a 29er. Since the volume of the tire increases, I was wondering is one 16 gram CO2 cartridge enough to inflate the tire?

Notes: The tire will be between 2.1 and 2.25 wide. Since I'm big (110 kg) I need more pressure than a lower-weight rider.


texts: Common for spoke nipple head to rust but not nipple body?

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Is it common to see spoke nipples with heads rusted only on the side toward the hub, but not on the spoke body?

I'm working through all the spokes on my front wheel, inspecting and spoke prepping all the nipples and replacing some.  The above rust pattern is what I'm seeing, on almost all the nipples.

If it matters, the spokes are (I think - magnetic) painted steel, the nipples are also slightly magnetic, and the rim is double-wall aluminum.


texts:
I have this mysterious problem with my rear hardtail wheel. Here's how it goes: I put in a brand new tube after getting a flat, works fine for a ride, next ride get a flat, change tube, get a flat next ride... and the constant theme here is that the tube rips right around the valve.
Now what happens is rather odd: I notice the like squishy part between the rim and the tube is shifted around the valve - so I have to force the valve in the rim hole. The tube works fine when out of the wheel, but when installed leaks.

Running stock wheels so I may just need to upgrade wheels, but the bike is pretty entry so.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Giant TCR SLR2 2015 vs Giant Defy Composite 2 2013

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this is the first time i gonna buy and ride a road bike. Mainly use to commute everyday and exercise. I'm tall 5"3 and i'm looking for a bike which is durable,fast, better to upgrade later. And i got 2 options.

Giant Defy Composite 2 2013 Size Small ( 46.5cm ) i think. I got a deal on Ebay, it still new and i got price 1150 + 150 for shipping. So $1300 total. ( SRAM Apex gear,full carbon frame )
Giant TCR SLR2 2015 from a local bike shop. Original price $1500 and they discount for me so i only pay $1200 for a new one and i can choose the size...may be Extra Small. ( 105 gear, premium alluminum,carbon fork)

Today i went to the store and try the Aluminum Defy 5, and it's ok. I try the other bike Cannondale CAAD10 but I got more harder to control, may be the handbar more lower and different geometry. I didn't have chance to try the TCR because they didn't have XS or S size.

So now i have to choose one of it. Both of them must be fast, accept the counter price on ebay before it gone, or order TCR before Black Friday to have a good discount.
I also wonder does it hard to maintain Defy composite than TCR, the street in my place a lot of pump and sometime have to ride on pavel.

Looking for advise of you guys. Thank you.


texts:
I bought a used bike but I hate its color and I want to repaint it. I saw some videos on youtube on that. However I found the stuff too expensive. I went to Amazon and I found a black matte paint spray for 5 euros and my idea is to clean the bike and then just spray the frame.

So my questions are:

1- What happens if I simply do that without removing the rust or removing the old painting? Wouldn't the new painting simply cover everything? Bascially the steps on youtube is to first remove the old painting and remove the rust and then spray a coat (I don't know what a coat is but I think it costs extra 7 euros for the bottle) and then spray with the black matter paint. So what is the effect of not following those steps and directly use the black matter spray? Because the youtube steps would cost me 24 euros or so.

2- The Crankset also lost its color, so I'm thinking to spray that too with the black matte. Is that wrong or bad in anyway?!

Here are the pics of my bike:

So yeah I actually want to spray all of that with simply the black matte spray paint that cost 5 euros because I'm a poor student. (I hope that wouldn't make it uglier!)


texts:
I had to patch a flat yesterday and now my quick release won´t tighten up anymore. It makes a ratchet Sound when I turn it trying to tighten it. I remember it was hard to loosen the quick release when I removed the wheel yesterday. Any ideas?

The quick release is in pretty pristine condition so I thought I would ask advice before replacing it outright.


texts: What is this brown goop on my new bike frame?

texts:
I'm building a single speed bike, and ordered parts from various different places.

My EAI Bareknuckle frame got delivered this morning, and it looks great, except for this part of the fork, that has this dried brown goop on it. It doesn't look like rust, though it smells kinda metallic. I'm not a rust expert though. Or a frame/bike expert for that matter.

Have you seen this before? How can I clean it off? Water didn't dissolve it. Not sure if using soap is a good idea.

Pictures:

Thanks!


texts: Attaching a Kryptoflex cable (Kryptonite) to the frame

texts: I want to attach the double looped cable (bottom) to the frame: it's two metres long, and isn't convenient to wrap around the D-lock, etc. Has anyone done this? Since a clip (top) can't get past the loops on the ends, the only way I can think of is to saw the clip in half and then stick it back together on the cable, but this seems a bit... dumb.


texts: How tight should your stem valve nut be?

texts:
I just got new schrader valve tubes that have the rim fitting nut on them.

Since this question has not been asked on here before, what is the proper tension that the nut should meet the rim? My understanding is that the nut prevents the tube from slipping in the rim and being damaged over time.

My questions are:

Do you tighten the nut before inflation, or after inflation?
After inflation should the nut be finger snug or tightened with a wrench?


texts: Where should I look for a reliable chainguide for a large chainring (52T)?

texts:
I'm building a hybrid bicycle using a Specialized StumpJumper S-Works carbon frameset.

The drive-train is 1x12.
Wolf Tooth 52T cyclocross chainring, to beef up the top end gearing.
(The chainring is compatible with SRAM Eagle 1x12 drive-train components.)
10t-50t rear cassette, for ultra wide range.

I've found a lightweight aluminum bashring that fits 52T chainrings, so that's not an issue.

However, I need to find a reliable 52T 1x chainguide for 12-speed chains.

I'm not a huge fan of the chain guides that hang on the frame, and the StumpJumper has odd shapes in the frame bars, making this effectively impossible.

I remember, around a year ago, I found a rare and obscure 52/54T chainguide that mounted on the crankset/BB, but I don't remember anything else about it.

Where should I look for a top/bottom 1x chainguide, crankset/BB mounted, fitting 12-speed chains?


texts: Deflated tube: Is it me, or it is the rim tape?

texts:
I just had flat tube #4.
Enough is enough.

Please examine the photo of my rim and the valve stem hole. Is the rim tape too far off of the edge? I had inflated the tire with more air, per the first post's advice responses. It had been working fine for nearly a week now.

Suddenly, pssssss and it's a hole at the valve stem. AGAIN. Just like the last two times. So am I just not pumping it up enough -- but if so why did it last so long -- or is it the rim hole rubbing away at the valve entry area and eventually cutting into the rubber at the valve?

I don't mind pumping it up...I have to do it manually, and fear for overinflation and potential explosion...but I can certainly pump it to the proper volume, as I have been riding on this tube for several days now.


texts:
I'm getting the next month a Cube Nuroad black/red 2018 for my little trips and some commuting.

I got and old Btwin MTB helmet bought in Spain. Is it good to wear on this type of bike?

I'd use this bike for some gravel terrain, long trips and commuting.

Thanks!


texts: What do you do to make positive you remember your water bottle?

texts:
I commute 11 miles to work, and at least once a month, at about mile 2, I'll look down and notice I left my water bottle on the counter at home!

What tricks do you have to make sure this doesn't happen to you?


texts: How to find the vertical height between any two points?

texts:
Is there any source in the Internet that allows me to calculate the vertical height between two arbitrary points?

Im thinking of something like the calculate route function of Google Maps. But instead of the trip length, I want to see the vertical height.

Do you have any experience with such information?


texts: The seat post (and the saddle) got stolen on my Schwinn Loop. I've searched everywhere but I haven't been able to find the diameter/size of the seat post so I can look for a replacement online. Any piece of info would be appreciated.


texts: What kind of bike do I have, "manufacturer/model"

texts:
I just bought this bike at a garage sale, mainly because i was told by my friend of how amazing of a deal it was, that this particular bike was worth at least 3 times the amount I paid.

Anyways I clearly do not know much about bikes and I am unable to actually read or make out the decals.

I do have the serial number found under the crank. I'm hoping that someone will be able to tell me where I could find out this info, or by looking at the pics and the serial number what I actually have.

SN: CYIDC11C02155


texts: Difference between brake pads on road and MTBs

texts:
I know that road caliper brakes use shorter (and wider?) pads than v-brakes and MTB cantilevers, but I don't exactly understand the reason behind.

What would happen if I mount longer pads on road-style calipers and vice versa?


texts: Can I leave headset spacers above and below the stem

texts: I am in the process of building a bike with a new frame and fork. The groupset will be from a donor bike. When it comes to fitting the bike and cutting the steerer I would like to do some trial rides to check the fit prior to cutting the steerer.Can I leave the steerer long and install spacers above and below the stem until I get the fit correct? Could I leave a spacer on the top so potential resale would be more likely?


texts: Adjusting Hozan spoke threading tool for different spoke gauges

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On the hozan spoke rolling tool it is possible to vertically adjust part that holds the spoke, so that spoke would be at the same level as the center of rollers.

When rolling #15 spokes instead of #14, or rolling double butted #14 (so the part of the spoke which is held is actually #15), is it necessary to readjust vertical position of the spoke to take into account different width of the spoke? Or this difference is to small to require readjustment?


texts: Does 50-622 Schwalbe Marathon plus winter fit my bike?

texts:
So my bike original tires are 47-622 and I'm wondering does 50-622 Schwalbe Marathon plus winter fit my bike?
My bike: https://whitebikes.com/ax-290-ff-20/b/2461/


texts: If the chain/cog no longer drives the wheel, can this be fixed?

texts:
Suddenly (without anything sounding like it was broken) the chain no longer turns the back wheel. The cogged part of the wheel is turned by the chain but this doesn't turn the wheel.

Is this something I can fix? I can't see a problem but I haven't started to try to take anything apart yet.

Please note this is a child's bike so there isn't much value in the bike or its parts. Just wondering whether or not to send this bike to the skip.


texts: Is it really necessary to physically cross (interlace) the spokes on traditional wheel lacing?

texts:
Recently I had to replace a hub on the front wheel of my workhorse bike. That meant unlace it and lace it again. Since the hubs were identical, I used the same old spokes, same not-so-old rim and same lacing pattern (3-crossings).

However, I noticed (already noticed it many times) the contact point between spokes around the 3rd crossing (where they actually touch one another) was a bit stained (even being stainless steel spokes) and a tiny bit worn.

I know it is traditional to cross the spokes this way, and Sheldon Brown explicitly advises to BEND the spokes against one anoter (which I heartily recommend everybody to do, increases wheel durability very very much.)

BUT since there are so much fancy wheels and even alternative lacing patterns (radial lacing, for example) where the spokes go straight from hub to rim, I wonder if it is really necessary to interlace the spokes in the first place.

Anyway, I can number some hypothetical pros and cons of INTERLACING:

PROS:

Provides an extra contact point for the spoke, reducing mobility and flexion, and improving lateral stability;
Reduces resonance noises;
Allows for fixation of spoke-cards ;o)

CONS:

Makes assembly a bit more difficult;
Creates a potential stress point due to friction and flexion;
Creates an initial bending around the contact point, which might allow for fatigue-inducing flexion around the spoke elbow;
Makes cleaning a lot more difficult.

EDIT: due to the confusion that arose between crossing vs. radial (which wasn't what I meant) and different ways to lace the same crossing pattern (what I intend actually), I made a drawing (out of scale) showing the two possibilities. At left, the "physically touching crossing". Please note that in the frontal view (bottom left) the spokes are not actually twisted against one another like the view might induce to think, but are only flexing against one another).

I am very prone to lace my next wheel without physical crossings, since there seems to be enough evidence it is not actually necessary. Some months later, I could be sure if that works or not. But even if it is not necessary, it might still be better.

So, have you any information/link/knowledge/experience about?


texts:
I'm planning to build a steel lugged frame and equip it with downtube friction shifting. My question is:

Do Dura Ace 7900 downtube shifters come with friction mode? The left lever does not have a D-Ring for switching between SIS and friction mode according to my observation.  If not, which model of Dura Ace shifters offers friction mode?
Do downtube shifters have a predefined shifting cable travel so that the older DA friction shifters could not be used on 10 or 11 speed cassette simply because there is not enough cable travel?
Apart from Cane Creek, are there other manufacturers who offer aero brake levers?


texts: My chain got caught in the guide plate and broke the encircled part of the rear mech (See photo) I'm using Shimano GRX 810 Rear derailleur. There are no observable misalignment. Question, is it safe to still use this Rear mech? I already ordered another one and I plan to use this while waiting