texts: How can I keep my feet from falling asleep while riding?

texts: I have mountain bike shoes and clipless pedals. When I go on long rides, my feet fall asleep and then very, very painfully wake up (on my most recent long ride, this started happening after 30ish miles and continued for the remaining 45 miles). What can I do to avoid/fix this problem?


texts:
My girlfriend is a keen road cyclist, but does not want to use clipless pedals.
She currently uses something similar to these shoes: Scott MTB
(with bog standard flat plastic pedals)

We've tried some Shimano XC5W but they didn't fit well. Also not sure how well they would work without cleats?

Any ideas for some shoes/pedals that are appropriate for road cycling without cleats.
Ideally something that is lightweight, moderately stiff and looks sleek.
(would need to come in size EU38)

What pedals would work well? Most MTB pedals are way too chunky and heavy.


texts: Boost 148 and 110 standard specification

texts: Where can I find exact specification for boost 148 and 110 axle specification. I was able to find many documents describing main features of it, but I would like to read document with all exact dimensions and drawings that make this standard


texts: How urgently do I need to replace my tire?

texts:
When I came home today from by bike ride I found my tire like this:

I understand that I'll need to change my tire. My question is how urgent is this? Can I just keep using the tire until it stops holding air, or is this dangerous, and the it might pop when I'm on the bike?


texts: Shimano Nexus 3 (SG-3C41) 2 and 3 gear problem - Ring Gear Unit Repair

texts:
I have this internal gear hub and i try to fix it. 1st gear is ok. On 2nd and 3rd gear, especially when I run faster, the hub is not engaging properly, missing engagement sometimes. It is not problem with chain and/or with sprockets.

I`m pretty sure that the problem also does not stem from shifting mechanism.
I removed clickbox and operate pushing rod manually. I understand how it works internally because of numerous disassembling and greasing similar hubs. I pushed rod till the indent on it to engage 2nd gear and till the end to engate 3rd gear and especially at 3 i feel that gear is alternating between  1 and 3, making some noise.

This bike was heavily used and i suppose that Ring Gear Unit (no. 5. here), namely,  cogs that are "opened" by the driver are worn out and/or circular blade has malfunction and does not support and "lock" that cogs properly.

My question is how to assure that only Ring Gear Unit need to be replaced and how to check if hub exterior is ok.
I`m not sure how to check that Carrier Unit (no 4) is ok. It is used by 1st gear, and that gear works properly, so it suggest that this 4 small gears are ok - they look fine.  Not sure if it "as designed" - they can be pushed towards centre of unit, when whole unit is off the hub - fell like holes in them are broader than rods that rods that secures them in the unit. This unit also engaged in 3rd gear and that gear works noticeably worse than 2nd (ie loses engagement more often than 2nd).

My last idea is to "fix" rods of unit 5 by "sharpening" them a bit with a file. Is it a good idea?

UPDATE photos & experiments

Cogs looks like that:

Hub housing from inside (a bit of damage can be seen):

for test I reassembeld hub as follows: I've removed part no 2, 3 and 4 and put the rest into the hub. I got 1st as free gear and 2nd and 3td, both equal to original 2nd gear. I got the same behaviour as described before - mis-engaging at higer speed. Former photos suggests, that part no 5 needs to be replaced. My question is: is it worth to replace it without replacing hub housing (photos show minor wear of internal structure)? Is it possible to get just two cogs, without whole Ring Gear Unit (I mean new one, not second-hand). Last question - which surface of the cog(interior or exterior) would you suggest to file off to try to make it working properly? (since it`s rubbish, i can try :) )

UPDATE -I've added my solution as answer.

The question - is it possible to buy cogs separately and what shimano say about: "when to replace stuff" is still open.


texts:
This might seem like a really basic question, but there's no harm in asking. I've never had a bicycle with drop handlebars. I've always had sort of standard horizontal bars with only one hand position, which is on the rubber grips. I'm outgrowing the bike I have now, and thinking of upgrading next year to something faster. Pretty much every faster bike has drop handlebars, but I'm not sure how to use them.

I understand that there are multiple hand positions. I'm sure I can figure out for myself which ones are more comfortable than others just by feel. But I don't want to necessarily do what feels natural, I want to ride properly. What are all the different hand positions available on drop bars? Which positions do you use in which scenarios?

I just don't want to put myself in a dangerous, uncomfortable, impractical, or stupid-looking situation by having my hands in the wrong place.


texts: Raleigh Twenty forks too narrow to accept 93mm hub

texts:
93mm hubs are standard size for the R20s but on this particular bike there isn't enough clearance between the fork ends to get a wheel in (I'm using an original R20 wheel as a replacement so it's definitely the correct size).

I know that the bike had an "accident" at some point that trashed the front wheel but I don't have any other details about what exactly happened to it, so I'm thinking the front might have been run over by a car or something and that crushed the forks somewhat. They look structurally sound, but would it be a bad idea to cold-set them and draw them apart a bit, or am I possibly missing something in the way I'm trying to replace the wheel? I have no experience with vintage bikes so some guidance would be appreciated.


texts: Why does my rear cassette feel like it's jumping when I put pressure on small cog?

texts:
I just gave my bike a going over with new bearing cages in the BB and a new chain. After putting everything back on I indexed the gears - finally getting the hang of the front but first time indexing the rear derailleur. It all felt fine on the stand, but when I go uphill with the rear gears on the lowest cog (6), when the pressure is on the pedals I get a weird jumping, clunking thing keep happening.

Now I was told this could be because my rear cassette is worn, but I've had a close look and done the brake-on-pedals-pushed test, no play on the chain on any cog, looks fine to me, how does this look to you : The mech doesn't look bent, either. Is it just that I need to get my indexing in better form, and need to perfect the cable tension, or are there other causes for this (like maybe wear on the drive cogs - do they look like they need replacing below?)?


texts:
I would like to know what methods there are to size chain length on a derailleur geared bike. There should be more than one answer, so there are effectively no wrong answers - don’t be shy.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of, and reasons for, your preferred method?


texts: Is it safe to ride with one missing chainring bolt?

texts: I have a double chainring on my road bike but one of my chainring bolts has broken so I'm left with only 4 out of the 5 I'm supposed to have. Is it safe to ride? (just until replacements arrive)


texts: Missing lock nut part on Dura Ace WH-7900 wheels

texts:
Not sure what to call it, but a couple of my wheels are missing the grippy washer thing that sits on the lock nut. They seem to be attached to the lock nut to begin with, but they just fall off after a while and get lost when swapping wheels.

Can they be replaced?  If so, where can I find the replacement part?

With:

Without:


texts: Looking for a good mountain bike for my daugher. Want disc brakes and Fork lockout

texts:
My daughter is a teenager and we love going biking, either on trails or during camping trips.  We are not hard core bikers, but she is ready for a bike upgrade as she is using a 20" wheel bike right now.
I am looking to buy her a bike that will last her a long time.
Looking for
a) Aluminum frame for someone 5' 5"
b) 26 or 27.5 inch wheels
c) disc brakes,
d) fork lockouts
e) women geometry (she likes girl colors like pink, teal, purple etc)
Can you recommend a decent brand/bike that won't be above $600 ?  I've seen Motobecane and Liv online, but am not sure these are good brands.
Thanks so much.


texts: Rear dynamo light (tail light) or reflector without rack?

texts:
I have a light / reflector designed to mount to a rear rack. It has two horizontal holes for bolts, like this:

I do not have a rack.
But I do have rack mounts like these on the seat stays:

Is there an adapter that would allow me to mount the light / reflector to the frame?


texts: Has anyone tried this "poor mans" homemade electric bike idea?

texts:
I have a wiper motor from some car or van that has a shaft on it.  When I apply 12 volts to it, with no load on it, it seems to spin at about 125 RPMs.  I vaguely remember that when I load it, it can draw up to about 10 amps (10A).  I suspect it can output maybe 100 watts of power or so.  It also has 3 mounting holes.  I suspect someone mechanically inclined could perhaps connect this with 1:1 ratio to the crank/chainring assembly.  The 125 RPMs would likely drop under load but under low load it should maintain close to that I would think.  It would be fun to try it with some type of freewheel mechanism or centrifugal clutch so when the motor is turned off, it would not load the cranks.  Since the rotational speed mimics a normal cadence (probably will drop to 60 to 100 RPMs under load), it can possibly be used to run a multispeed bike and if the rider pedals too, they would help each other out (like 100 watt motor plus 100 watt rider = 200 watts total).

So has anyone ever tried this and do you think it could work and if you think so, do you think it would work well?  What about pitfalls?

UPDATE: I tried the motor with a 12V battery and a short crescent wrench and I was able to hold the wrench still but there was a fair amount of tug on it, meaning it might be ok as a helper motor but not strong enough to move the bike on its own.  It would be interesting to see if after getting the bike going say 10 MPH, if this motor would at maintain that speed or at least help the bike to coast down longer.

Also since it spins at about 125 RPMs, it can be geared down even more such as thru a 16T drive sprocket and a 20T driven sprocket which is a a 4:5 reduction so then about 100 RPMs, giving it more torque.  I think if this motor spun at half the speed, it would be harder for me to hold that wrench still.  Maybe some other wiper motors spin slower like 60-100 RPMs.

Thank you.


texts: How do I separate hydraulic disc brake pads after pulling the brake while the wheel is off?

texts:
I take the front wheel off my mountain bike to get it in my car. When I get it out and try to put the front wheel back on, the space between the brake pads isn't wide enough for the rotor. Whoops! I must have pulled the lever on my hydraulic brakes.

How can I separate the the pads without damaging them?


texts: Left crank has become loose and no longer stays on the bike

texts: The left crank kept falling off and I've kept on managing to put it back on but finally it wouldn't go. Think the threading is just absolutely kackered. So I ended up taking it to a shop to have a look at and a possible replacement crank. The only one advised to purchase was the Shimano FC-M622 175mm but it is near enough impossible to find and alot of places has discontinued the product. Does anyone know of any other cranks i could purchase instead of this one? Thanks, Tom.


texts:
I am 5 foot tall (152 cm) and have a 25 inch (63.5 cm) inseam.

I am unsure as to which size of wheel/frame to buy.  Also, recommendations for adult trikes, no more than $400 would be appreciated.


texts: A two wheel drive bike is a bike without a motor that can still turn. The front and back wheel both get power. How does a bike with this type of drivetrain work?


texts: Aspects for choosing a bike to ride across Europe

texts:
I've been planning to do an "Orient Express" tour for a while now and I realised it would be a good idea to ask for advice regarding choosing the bike.
I was born in a mountainous area and used to ride a lot up until I was around 23, mostly on road and gravel, but featuring hills. "A lot" is subjective, I'm talking about 300-500 kilometres a month. I could do a 100 km day without issues.
I am now 29, have a sedentary job, did not cycle for a couple years, and choosing big goals is generally how I am able to make progress. I'm not planning to do the tour next week.
I need a proper bike for it, however.
The itinerary is Paris - Istanbul, a lot of flat areas, on the road, but I would also like to challenge some passes in the Alps, like the Furka in Switzerland.
I've travelled before with very little stuff and I don't need much luggage, just the basics.
I've been looking at a few bikes, the Trek 520, the Surly Disc Trucker and the Kona Sutra seem to stand out.
What are the aspects I should pay attention to when it comes to making a decision?
The one I like the most is the new 520 Grando, but I can't even try it since it's not available on European markets and I'd have to find a way to get it transported to me from the U.S.
I feel like I might be making a vanity decision here and for the purposes I need the standard 520 might even be a better choice.
TL;DR: I've fallen out of touch with the biking world and I would like to make a smart decision and not just pick something that looks "cool". Thank you for your advices


texts: How to reset pistons after replacing brake pads

texts:
I recently replaced the brake pads of a Tektro Dorado system.
But now I cant hardly turn the wheel, the clearance between pads and disk is too small.
Bleeding wont help, that's only to remove air.
The auto adjustment (wear correction) must be reset, but how?

Thanks


texts: why do left shifters switch chainrings and right shifters cogs?

texts: Can that be changed? Is it just convention? Is there any commercial bike that comes with a left-shifter that switches cogs?


texts: What sort of bike chain do I need for my bike?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How can I tell which size chain my bike uses?

I have a vintage Ross road bike, and the chain recently snapped during one of my rides.
The bike has 2 gears in the front and 5 in the back. Making that a 10 speed bike?
What affordable bike chain can I buy to replace the snapped one? And should I be looking at 10 speed chains? Or would a 9 speed suffice?


texts:
Not such a specific issue but a general question, I am interested in repairing a bike and for £10 there is a Muddyfox Pathfinder from the 90s, is this worth the £10, does it have any value or should I leave it?
Thanks
Charlie


texts: Compression ring not holding top of fork in place

texts:
I just replaced a fork with a different one (Bluto»Mastodon) and, after inserting the compression ring into the top bearing (it has a tapered section), the steerer tube still wiggles from side to side. The bearings are new so there's no chance they are damaged. The entire set-up worked just a few moments ago without any problems, but now I cannot seem to figure out how to get it to stop moving. What could be the problem?

Here's a photo:


texts: My Supercycle chain keeps breaking randomly

texts: I have an almost brand new Supercycle bike and for some reason, the chain keeps breaking on it. What could I be doing wrong


texts: What is the best way to secure a bike on a bus bike rack?

texts:
This question involved a bicycle stolen off the front of a San Francisco muni bus. Up to now, I never thought much about how vulnerable my steed is on a bus.

What is the best way to secure a bicycle on the front of a bus? Ideally it should not involve too much time to secure the bike or remove it, given that the driver and other passengers are waiting for you.


texts: Can I use a road bike for commuting 11 miles each way without SPANDEX

texts:
I am thinking of getting (investing in) a road bike for my 11 mile commute (total 22 miles each day).  I want to continue wearing normal work clothes - meaning hiking pants and a T-Shirt.  I plan on using the Spiderflex seat (taken from my Mountain Bike) on a road bike.

The Spiderflex eliminates any seat pain, and there is no chafing, ever.
Can this be done? Does anyone do something similar?


texts: Alternatives to Crankset Shimano M523 Octalink 40-30-22T

texts:
I have recently purchased a Merida 2015 7500 One-Twenty 3x10.
Link to bike specs: http://online.fliphtml5.com/pvouz/azox/#p=12
The crankset chain rings are very worn and need replacing.

More Pictures of Crankset: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1sHKCdlJYe0ygDfoz3sI7e0QFI-eXPZkE
The current crankset is an Shimano M523 Octalink 40-30-22T 10s. This seems to be quite hard and expensive to purchase here in the UK.
Do you have any recommendations replacing this worn crankset ?
I could replace just the chain rings or the whole crankset.
I could also change the bottom bracket as well to be open up my options.
Any help would be very much appreciated.


texts:
I'm thinking of upgrading from a 9 speed (11-34T cassette) to 10 speed.  Scoped out a few components and
1) Shimano Deore XT CS-M771 10-Speed Cassette 11-36T 10-speed HG cassette
2) Shimano Dyna-Sys, super-narrow 10-speed HG chains (hg95)
3) Shimano Ultegra 6700 Shifter (for 10 speed)

I have an existing Deore XT rear long cage derailleur used to support 9 spped 11-34T cassette.  Two part question:

A) can existing rear derailleur support HyperGlide chain and cassette?
B) any other comments on compatibility of proposed new components or suggestions?


texts: Can I combine different wheel sizes in one mtb?

texts: Imagine a mountain bike that uses a 29er fork with 29er wheel and a 27.5 wheel at the rear. Can this be realized and what are the pros and cons?


texts: What am I supposed to do when my chain falls off?

texts:
It happened when I "stepped on it" (on an empty residential street). It left the chain on the road.

What tool(s) and parts should I have had with me, to fix it?

It was replaced (new) two months ago, since when they also had the back wheel off to replace its brake pads.

When I lubed it recently I noticed that one of the links seemed loose, but I didn't want to take the time to take it back to the LBS (which is now on reduced less convenient winter hours).


texts: I have a planet bike speedometer and after the winter season it seems that it is no longer functioning. It will come on when the bike starts to move but I cannot reset it and it seems to be frozen on the stats of my last ride where it was working. Does anyone know if this is a battery issue or just a malfunction of the device. If I have to get a new one how expensive and time consuming would it be to replace?


texts: Mechanic and top rider's bike on right side of team car - why?

texts:
During the 2017 TdF one of the commentators said the that a teams GC contender or their best rider always has their spare bike carried on the right side of the team car, on the roof, above the team mechanic.

This was surprising and I'm wondering why the top rider's bike has a special place.  Is it just because it's fastest to grab a bike thats directly above oneself in the case of a mechanical failure or are there other reasons as well?


texts: Cannondale Trail SL 3 component upgrades

texts:
I have a 2013 cannondale trail SL 3 and some parts have been worn and look beat up so I'm planning to replace them. I was wondering if I can use a 10-speed rear derailleur on a 9 speed cassette and can I use any shimano shifters as long as they're 3x9? (I.e. Shimano Deore shifters on XT front and rear mech all 3x9. Also, can I change the crankset as long as it has the same number of teeth on all chain rings? Thanks

Specs:
Fork    RockShox XC 30 TK, Coil, 100mm

Hubs    Cannondale C4 front and rear

Cranks  Shimano FC-M430-8, Octalink, 44/32/22

Bottom Bracket  Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink

Chain   Shimano HG53

Rear Cogs   Sunrace M96, 11-34, 9-speed

Front Derailleur    Shimano Acera, 31.8 clamp

Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore, shadow design, 9-speed

Shifters    Shimano Alivio

Brakes  Shimano BR-M446, 160/160mm

Brake Levers    Shimano BR-M446


texts: Converting bike from rim brakes to disc brakes

texts:
I just bought a used 2009 Kona Dew and it comes with regular rim brakes. I'm perfectly happy with them so far, but have been wondering if disc brakes would come handy when it rains.

What is involved in converting a bike from rim brakes to disc brakes (mechanical or hydraulic)?

Is this something that is feasible, or am I better off buying another bike that already has disc brakes?


texts:
I'm not a pro cycler and I bought this Schwinn hybrid bike at a local shop, the front derailleur is not working properly and it seems very cheap and I'd like to change it for something more durable. It's there any recommendation on the type and quality replacement for this 50T, 3x7 speed set up bike?
Thank you in advance for any advice.
Cheers.


texts: How do I choose a light GPS device supporting Strava?

texts:
Up til now I have ridden with Strava running on my mobile phone sitting in a special mobile phone holder which sits up on my handlebars.

Now I am looking for a better solution, both more aerodynamic for my new bike, and also with longer battery life (My present phone only lasts 2 hours with gps running).

How do I select the lightest / best device that runs Strava? It obviously needs to be GPS capable.

What features do I look for? Is it a smart phone? A smart watch? A garmin device?

The device being light, comfortable, reliable and able to record rides of 4 hours or more would be ideal.

Thanks for any suggestions.


texts: How to properly position foot on flat pedals?

texts:
I recently replaced my clip-in pedals(SPD) with regular flat pedals on my commuter cycle with the hope to avoid wearing shoes with cleats on my commute. I want to wear my water proof boots to work when cycling. The problem I face is that my feet are not positioned properly, I usually find that one foot is farther or behind the other foot.

I considered adding a cage on the flat pedals but I cannot fit my boots in the toe clip.
I tried booties on my cleated shoes with clip-in spd pedals, but it is too much effort for commuting, the booties wear out fairly quickly due to frequent stops/walking and I feel that cleated shoes/booties are good for long rides on the weekend.
Pedals with SPD on one side and flat on the other still poses the same problem, alignment of foot when using the flat side.

I am looking for a solution where I can wear normal shoes/sandals/boots that is weather-appropriate  when I am commuting to work. I think a vast majority of cyclists use regular flat pedals/ flat pedals with toe cages. Is there a trick/tip to align both feet properly on pedals or should I give up hope on being able to wear non-cleated shoes and go back to clip-in spd pedals? Or do I just need more practice with flat pedals? Are there other riders who have this problem? I did ride a mountain bike with flat pedals during my high school days but never thought about foot alignment, but back then I had never used clip-in pedals.


texts: Saddle keep tilting. Which spare to use to replace it?

texts:
The saddle of this bike keep tilting, no matter how strong I tighten the bolts.

Therefore I am thinking of replacing it.

Can I replace only the fixture, or do I need to replace the entire pipe? Also, is it a specific type that I need to ask for when buying the spare?


texts: Why are bicycles triangulated at the back but not at the front?

texts: I know that triangulation of structures makes them stiff. Why are bicycles stiff at the back but not at the front?


texts: How can a GPS with damaged screen be put to use?

texts:
I bought a Holux 260 Pro last year but it fell off the bike on very first day, due to faulty clamp. Sending it to the company for replacement is very costly(>50% of the device cost) so it's been lying around for over a year.
Except for the broken screen, the device is fully functional. I can't use it normally as the screen is totally damaged. Anybody having some good ideas to put it to a good use?


texts:
I bought a Repco Warrior 29 mountain bike 3 months ago. The back tyre is now almost bald and needs to be replaced. Because of where I live there are no bike shops, so I can't buy tyres here and will have to order them from overseas.

My problem is that 3 months seems a short time to have to replace tyres (although it does see a lot of miles since I use it a lot). I don't ride offroad, and I'm wondering if that's part of the issue with the rapid wear.

Before I order any tyres, can anyone tell me through experience if it's a good idea (or even possible) to put road tyres on my mountain bike. Are there any pro's and cons to it? Should I replace both tyres or just the back one?

Update:- I now have my new tyres, ordered brake pads as well, and immediately noticed the smoother, easier, quieter ride on the way home (about an hour) Cheers all for the advice.


texts:
I have looked all over youtube and the web and cannot find any explanation of how to use this tool:

From https://www.amazon.com/Third-Hand-Brake-Adjuster-Yellow/dp/B0787T5KWD
Can anybody explain how to use it?


texts: How stay fit enough to make moderately hard rides a couple times a month?

texts:
When I have time I like to get my bike and canoe out and do a day trip.  Doing a mile or two is not hard but a good day trip is between 8 and 14 miles. When I started at the beginning of the year 6 miles was all I could do before leg muscle fatigue (and butt soreness) did me in.  Now at the end of the season I can just make 14 miles in 3 hours with a bit of walking the last few miles.  I did a 22 mile bike only trip last week with similar results near the end of it.  So I am guessing 1 bike/canoe mile =~ 1.5 or 2 bike only miles.

I usually bike/walk straight through as going down the river is much slower (2 or 3 mph) and getting to the planned boat ramp before dark is critical. The trails are mostly rail to trail and unpaved. Friction, wind resistance and towing an extra 100+ pounds up a gentle slope, are the major impediments. I find a casual pedal of about 5 or 6 miles an hour to be the most effective.

My scheduled exercise time is an hour, 3 mornings per week.  Which include free weights, elliptical and recumbent stationary bike (wife's choice for our home gym). I found several related questions they all pretty much say to ride about 2/3 of your hard ride a few times a week.  I am looking for a solution that will allow me to do a really hard 20 minute exercise that equate to a 2 or 3 hour casual pedal.

Related Questions

I wish to get fit, therefore should I have a heavy bike?

How can I improve my stamina?

Does spin class prepare you for a long bike ride?

How long does it take to be ready for a multi day ride as a newbie?

Training involved to ride 175 miles (281 km) in a day

Help for a 169 mile bike ride

Training Advice for Road Cycling

And because I am over 50-
Age-specific information for cyclists


texts: Frame lock that can lock without key inserted

texts:
Does a frame/wheel lock that can be locked without the key being inserted exist? And if so, how secure is the lock itself (I heard that this style of locks that can be locked without the key inside are more susceptible to picking than normal style locks)?

These locks are variously named ring locks, cafe locks, O locks and defenders.

Update: There is another style of lock that is similar to the one picture above, but it has a straight locking bar instead of curved one. This type can be locked without the key inside, but it's not as easy to close and open due to the bar not being curved.


texts: Does brake modulation matter, for efficiency, beyond having enough to avoid locking the wheels?

texts:
Edit: To Clarify this is regarding going as fast as possible, i.e. racing, off-road.

I can't see why "modulation" matters so long as you have enough to apply near maximum braking force without locking the wheel.

Surely the brakes should always be used to near maximum stopping power, while using the duration of application to give the desired deceleration in as little time as possible (as late as possible)?

Wouldn't any other approach be inefficient and result in riding slower?

I have held this (logically derived) belief for a while and been around similarly minded people, but recently I have come across a surprising amount of  people who always go on about modulation when brakes are being discussed and how they need great modulation to get "just the braking power they want".

Is their preference a matter of what they want trumping what they actually need for maximum efficiency?

I was always led to believe (with sensible reasoning) that dabbing or feathering brakes or in any way applying them, to anything other than near maximum capacity, is simply incorrect brake use (when efficiency is at stake.)

Am I missing something?


texts: Anyone have issues using cx tires on the road when its wet?

texts: I have a cross bike and i love the feel the fit and the response to steering that comes with cx bikes but im having a repeat issue. Using it as my daily rider when roads are wet it never fails that during a ride i find myself sliding on my hips because my tires just slip out from under me. Is this related to having knobby tires or maybe a pressure issue. Any thoughts anyone?


texts: I have a customized Salsa Journeyman Claris. How small can I go for my small chainring? I'm not sure how to verify compatibility

texts:
It's a Salsa Journeyman Claris drop bar 650b converted to flat. The flat and drop frames are the same, but the drop comes with road bike components.
I have already upgraded a Sunrace 11-40t cassette to the rear with the help of a Wolftooth Components Roadlink which leads me to about 20.06 gear inches.
I currently have an FSA Adventure Tempo 30t/46t crankset in the front paired with the Shimano Claris front derailleur but was hoping to drop my small chainring to around 24t for the sweet, sweet, 16.5 gear inches.
Is it as simple as an easy cog swap and a chain? I'm not sure what parts need to be compatible to make it work.
Cheers all!


texts:
A search gave me the 2011 thread about slipping shift levers, but I'm not convinced what my problem is quite the same. Manual on my '88 Bridgestone 400 says it has an AL11GS L434 lever SIS downtube mount type. I can read the SIS, and it's on the downtube, and the original owner paid no attention to this bike so I'm sure that's what it still has. I've had and ridden the bike for about a year. I had to tighten the tensioning bolt once a couple of weeks ago, which was no surprise. It loosened yesterday to where it settled on the smallest chainring, and I screwed the bolt tight again. My commute is not much more than 3 miles, and that bolt came loose both going in and coming home. I'm now riding with a stubby screwdriver in my pocket.

What could have changed? What part of this wears, and has to be replaced? I don't like the sound of Loctite as a solution. Holding the lever in position to be able to ride in the middle gears is not a good option. Help! Thanks.

mh


texts:
Does anyone know of a stand alone ANT+ to Bluetooth Low Energy (BTLE) bridge device?

I have a Garmin Edge 810, which uses ANT+ ... but I would also like to track my rides on my iPhone 5S (which has BTLE, but ANT+ is a hassle).

I'm looking for a device that will correctly bridge ANT+ to BTLE so the iPhone will pick up the data as well as my 810.  I specifically want the bridge to work with a HRM, speed/cadence sensor (combo, like Garmin GSC10), and separate speed & cadence sensors.

I've tried the 4iiii Viiiva, but it doesn't work properly due to a proprietary protocol (or just lack of adoption by the app developers).  I had high hopes for this device, but it can't provide accurate data (yet).  http://www.geekyramblings.net/2013/12/03/viiiiva-hrm/

I know about the Wahoo RFLKT, but I don't need the display and would prefer something cheaper that I can stuff in my jersey pocket or seat bag.

I need something that will handle multiple devices at the same time without dropouts.

Update 9/29:

The manual upload issue is kind of moot now, as Garmin connect can now upload my rides to Strava automatically.  I can now turn on BT at the end of my ride and the 810 will upload the ride to Garmin Connect and Garmin uploads to Strava.

The live tracking was never a critical function.

I'd still like to get some kind of bridge so I can use my ANT+ accessories on the bike when using a trainer and an iPad trainer app without having to use the Wahoo ANT adapter.  I'll probably be upgrading to a lightning based iPad and I've heard the 30 pin adapter for lightning devices tends to be iffy.


texts:
I recently started biking again after taking about 2.5 years off. My bike has been sitting in my garage since then. I did a 30 mile ride as my first one back and I didn't replace my tubes beforehand. Everything went surprisingly fine, but the whole time I was worried about getting a flat. I did have a spare with me, but it's as old as my other tubes.

That got me thinking, how long do tubes usually last while they are in storage, both on and off the bike? Do I have to worry about dry rotting/cracking?


texts: I found a bmx in the garbage and fixed it up but when went to replace the pedals bought the wrong size. I'm wondering if someone can help me out. I was testing the old thread in my socket set an it screws into a 15/32 inch socket.


texts: What are these two "clips" on the bolts holding by rear disc brake bracket to the frame?

texts:
My rear disc brake is attached to a bracket, which is attached to the frame.
This bracket is held by two bolts that each have a clip on them:

The clips are clamped around the bolts, and can easily be twisted around the bolt (without the bolt moving).

What are they for?


texts: Is there a lightweight electric assist braking system that can be applied to a bicycle trailer?

texts: I am building a bicycle trailer that i would like to have its own braking system due to its weight. I'm wondering what the best way to accomplish that would be.


texts:
These are the front brake pads of my bike. Lately I've seen a decrease in stopping force and some shudder when braking at low and very low speeds. I took them apart and they look like this:

Do the pads look contaminated?


texts: Why replace brake cartridge when grooves wear off

texts:
Many websites recommend replacing rim brake cartridges (pads) when the grooves on them have worn off. Why would this be reasonable, other than for the hypothetical reasons listed below? I am looking for a scientific/engineering perspective, not personal stories on when you replace your pads.

I understand that once the cartridge wears down to its metal holder, then the braking performance is poor and the metal wears out the rim. The rim is much more expensive, so the brake pad should be changed before metal hits metal. But new Shimano brake pads are 10 mm thick (I just measured), of which 6 mm is outside the metal holder. The grooves are less than 2 mm. Why not use say 3 out of the 4 mm remaining after the grooves have worn out?

I understand that cartridges are cheap, might as well change them every week. I am not looking for a financial or preference-based explanation, only performance-based.

Another reason to change cartridges early may be that the worn cartridges would be too far from the rim. Brakes would have to be moved closer to the rim, which takes a little labour. With new cartridges, the brakes would have to be moved out again. Some people may prefer to change cartridges instead.

It may be that the material of the cartridge is not uniform, e.g. softer rubber on top, harder beneath. When the soft rubber is worn off, the cartridge starts wearing the rim out fast and offers poor braking. I cannot detect any difference of rubber across a Shimano brake pad. It would be more expensive to manufacture 2-compound cartridges than uniform-composition. Is the rubber of a cartridge uniform?

Grit and metal shavings stick in a brake pad, making it wear out the rim. But this seems to happen right from the start, no difference whether the grooves are there or not. Presumably grit sticks in softer rubber better, so if softer rubber is on top, then the brakes gather more grit before the grooves are worn out than after.


texts: Is it advisable to travel 11 miles one way to office every day

texts:
I am in London. Is it a good idea to travel 11 miles (one way) from home to office.Google says it takes 56 minutes.

I wear office formal with out a suit and tie. What advice can you suggest on clothing?

My office hours are 9-5


texts:
I live 7.2 miles from where I work and was rebuilding my life, so no car.  I was walking to work everyday until my son took me to Wal-Mart and said I was getting a bike.  I picked out a Kent 26 Bayside 7-speed cruiser.  I am 5ft 9in tall, 225 lbs and generally a big stocky guy.  Aside from taking a turn too fast in the middle of the night, and having to carry the bike 4 miles home, I have not had too much trouble, but the bike is no longer shifting to all the gears, and when in the highest gear, 7th, the chain slides off the front cog.

I made some adjustments, not knowing what the adjustments actually did, and the derailleur ripped off the hanger.  No damage to chain or cogs, but when I replaced the derailleur, it does the same thing as the first one did.  The guys at the bike shop said I am using the wrong bike because the trails I have to take to get to work are more mountain bike trails.

I guess, the heart of my question is, with proper maintainence and adjustment, can this bike carry me or do I really have to get another bike?  I have no clue why the chain comes off the front cog when the bike is in the higher gears, it did not used to do that, but I do know I am hard on the thing.


texts: Is the ticking of a free spinning wheel related to its quality?

texts:
I have often noticed that, whenever a race bike is running with free wheel (so no active pedals movements), I can hear a distinct "tick tick tick tick" coming from the rear wheel, sounding more or less like a speedy clock.

That doesn't happen neither on my cheap city bike, nor on my more expensive tourism bike. Is it a matter of proper lubrication, or is it also an indirect index of how good the gear is?

I would guess that if I hear a sound, some energy is being spent to generate it, and that energy comes from the bike motion. Therefore I would assume that a better bike with lower resistance would be more silent.


texts: How can I tell where the damage is in the hub?

texts:
I am pretty new to bicycle maintenance.  I've replaced brake cables, and patched tubes, but not much else.  This week my plan was to clean up my back hub, because the wheel hadn't been turning as smoothly as it should.  It felt like I was riding with my brakes on, and I couldn't find anything else wrong with it.

When I removed the skewer, the axle came out with it, and the bearings started falling out.  This was completely unexpected, since it didn't happen the last time I took removed the skewer, and I hadn't ridden since then.  At this point, I'm not sure how to approach the issue.  So, here is what I'm asking:

What is the best way to tell whether the hub or axle is damaged?
** Edit:  The axle is broken.  I didn't notice before, but when I went to take pictures, I could see it.  (Pictures didn't take well, though)  Should I assume there is other damage to the hub that I haven't noticed?
Should I be able to repack the hub with new bearings, or do I need to replace the cartridges entirely?
** Edit:  At this point, it looks like I should replace the whole wheel, as suggested.

I can tell that the skewer is slightly bent, and I think that is why it pulled the axle out, but the axle shouldn't have been that loose.  I'm guessing that the damage to the skewer was done when I had trouble putting the wheel back on the frame.

This same issue happened to this bike five years ago, and a shop repaired it, but my deal with that shop has long since expired.


texts: Broken Cogset-Back Wheel will not turn when pedaling

texts: I have an older road bike. I noticed that when I tried to go up large hills a few years ago, I would pedal but the back wheel wouldn't get any power. Now the wheel will not turn at all when I am attempting to ride it. When you crank the pedals, te cigarette on the back just spins. What can I do to fix this issue?


texts: Threading for BB (British) for Hollowtech 2 or square taper crankset?

texts: I have square taper crankset from Sugino (compact double 48-34). I am using their aluminium cartridge BB (I think it's 68mm). Anyway, I was wondering what is the difference, if any, regarding the threading between Shimano Hollowtech 2 BB and the Sugino cartridge BB? The reason I'm asking is that I'm considering to change the crankset to the Hollowtech because of the wider diameter of the bearings. I think it's 24 for Hollowtech and 17 for square taper cartridge. And can anyone tell me what is the difference between the "press-fit" BB and the normal BB for Shimano Sora? Can I use either or will only the normal BB fit my frame? Thanks.


texts: Can a Shimano Alfine 8 speed be reduced to 120mm hub spacing?

texts:
I would like to buy a single-speed bike that happens to have 120mm hub spacing, and add the Shimano Alfine 8-speed hub. That hub, however, seems to have a 135mm spacing.

Can the 8-speed Alfine hub be modified (in less than two hours, with standard hand tools) to 120mm?


texts: Replacing one derailleur with another type

texts:
I have an older bike (between 10 and 15 years old), which has a alivio derailleur. It's an 8 speed, and I just replaced the cassette, chain and crank set. I noticed that there was a large amount of play in my derailleur, so I reckoned it's time for a new one. Will this shimano acera derailleur fit instead of a new alivio one? They are quite a bit harder to find, and I'll just go for this if it's the easiest option.

Thanks!

EDIT:

I replaced it this afternoon and it worked perfectly; thanks for all the advice.


texts: Food for 400+km ride? (in single session)

texts:
Last September I did a 400km trip in ~23 hours.
For food I went through 20 cliff bars. My stomach was pretty upset with all of those.

This year I wanna try 500km.

I am looking for an alternative food source, something consumable in large quantities and friendly on the stomach. Yet fits into my back pack. (Although stopping 1-2 at a grocery store would be Ok also).

I was considering making energy drinks and bring 3L container with me in my backpack with straw that goes to mouth. But, erm, can you get by on liquid drinks alone?

Is there any other food that is friendly on the stomach, consumable while cycling and has a lot of energy to sustain ongoing high performance?

(I was going through ~700 calories an hour, it was about 12,000 calories total).


texts: How can rear derailleur work the opposite way it's supposed to?

texts:
I took a look at my friend's city bike's gears, as his rear gear shift levers felt almost completely "limp". Other (cleanliness and wear) issues aside, one thing that struck me as odd was that when I pulled the derailleur cable by hand, the derailleur moved outwards, i.e. towards the heavier gears. As far as I know, the derailleur moves towards the wheel when the cable is tightened whatever the model (here it was some standard Shimano). He told me he had bought the bike used, but the gears had been working during his time and he hadn't touched them.
How can that kind of "opposite" mechanics be possible?


texts: Is my stopping dangerous when Idaho Stop is de facto but not legal?

texts:
I've been bike commuting in the East Bay Area of California (5mi/day, plus public transport) for a few weeks now.

I recently attended an in-class safety course, where I learned the fine for not stopping at a stop sign is $250, AND a point on your drivers license (some people were there to remove this point, so people do get cited).

Since then, I've been mostly obeying the stopping laws.  But, another takeaway of that class was the importance of predictability.

I feel like stopping puts me in danger when I seem to be the only one to do it.  If no one expects me to stop, I am worried about bikes and cars not properly anticipating it, and my being involved in a collision.  I know, it wouldn't be my fault legally, but it sort of is my fault because I'm knowingly being unpredictable by stopping, yet do it anyway.  And of course, it doesn't matter who was right, I don't want anyone to get hurt!

My plan is just to continue to stop, per the law, but I thought I'd check with you all.  I don't have enough experience to know whether this is a valid concern.

Thanks!

(Idaho Stop: Treating stop signs as yields, and less pertinent to this question, stop lights as stop signs.)


texts:
I am an recreational cyclists and I like training, but on my last training ride I developed pain in my right buttock, I also got a bit of swelling, the area is on the back of the thigh just under my right buttock.

My background as a cyclist: I ride for several years mostly in the summer season, this season I have around 160 hours over the last 4 months and around 5000 km.

I must mention that in the same area I had saddle sores which now are solved because I am lubing the area before each ride with some sort of sports cream.

I suspect something is off with my riding position since it puts too much pressure on particular area, but it is strange as on the previous training ride I haven't felt any problem. I would like to avoid fiddling around with my saddle position as I haven't changed in the last 2 years at all.

Any idea what could cause this and how to manage it?


texts: Replacement for 52 tooth chainring Ultegra triple ( 6503 ) 9 speed

texts:
Hello It seems that the stock 52t chainring for a road triple ultegra 9 speed is on  back-order or has been discontinued. Is there a replacement that will fit and shift?
This is for my wifes Trek and she is not one to be told " Just baby it a little on the up shift "  Thanks in advance for any and all help in this matter.


texts: Is this damage on the bottom bracket shell concerning? Viking lugged steel frame

texts:
I was given this frame, it is a '80-something lugged steel Viking. I want to build it up but I don't know if this small crack in the bottom bracket shell will be a problem. It looks like the paint is peeling back a little bit and there is a bit of rust and maybe a small crack between the left chainstay lug and the bottom bracket shell. Other than this spot there are quite a few paint chips but the frame seems to be in good shape.
Does anyone with more experience with these old steel frames know if this needs to be welded or just cleaned up a bit and repainted?


texts: Do you need to lubricate gears after cleaning gears and chain?

texts: I just cleaned my gears and chain with a biodegradable degreaser. I'm going to lubricate my chain. Do I also need to lubricate the gears or do I just pedal and make sure that I hit all gears? Will the lube on the chain lube the gears?


texts: Is it possible to buy a traditional pedal rickshaw and stick an electric bike conversion kit on it? The rickshaw I've seen is the type when the rider is at the rear and so has two wheels at the front and one at the rear.


texts:
I just moved from where there wasn't much of a biking system infrastructure.  There were lots of trails though, so I bought an OK mountain bike ($350).

Now, I've moved to downtown Seattle and everyone bikes.  I'd love to get into it but not sure if a mountain bike is efficient for road-use.

Should I look into a conversion kit?  Should I just get a road bike and have one off-road and one on-road?


texts: What weave is the carbon of this carbon wheel?

texts: what weave is this carbon wheel? the brake track and rim are of different weaves? please explain, thanks.


texts: Shimano Nexus 8 Hub Alignment Mark No Longer Visible

texts:
I've got a Shimano Nexus 8 IGH, and was previously able to adjust it properly by aligning the two yellow tick marks in the 'window' as described here.

However, I then removed and replaced the rear wheel a couple of times to change a tire, clean, etc. However, I can now no longer see the second (outside) yellow tick mark in the window, and can't seem to get the gear adjustment dialed in without it. I have been using the painted yellow tick marks, but lining them up doesn't seem to dial in the shifting quite as nicely as it did when I lined up the tick marks in the window. Any idea what went wrong, and how I can get the second tick mark back again?

EDIT: It looks like someone added a photo--thanks. My issue is that when I look at my hub, the second (bottom in this photo) tick mark is not visible no matter what I do, so I can't use it for alignment. The window is clean, and the first tick mark is clearly visible.


texts: Derailleur tension pulley thread damaged by vibration?

texts:
I have been riding my RD-5800 this week with a slightly misaligned hanger. It had some difficult shifting, but it was ridable.

So the hanger alignment tool arrived today, and I decided to clean the derailleur and re-grease the jockey wheels after aligning the hanger. To my incredible surprise, when trying to re-tighten the tension pulley screw, the aluminium forming the thread broke off from the inner plate. I have now a useless derailleur.

I am trying to establish the probable cause of the problem to prevent a similar scenario in the future. Firstly, I would like to precise that the bolt has never been subjected to more than 4 N.m (Shimano max = 5 N.m), so I don't think that is the problem.

Every 2-3 weeks, I remove the jockey wheels to re-grease the bushings. I have been doing that for the last 8 months.

Do you think that the frequent removal of the jockey wheels caused the problem, or it may be due to the vibration experienced by the misaligned hanger?

Follow-up: I have temporarily replaced the bolt with a M5 longer one and a nut on the other side. It is not the better solution, since it is threaded in the bushing portion, but it will last until my new derailleur arrives.


texts: 10 speed rear derailleur to shift 11-40 cassette on 3x10

texts: This is a switch from 9 speed to 10 speed.... I have a 10 speed FSA carbon crankset 52-39-30 I wish to run cassette 11-40 10 speed...  I will size chain length to shift 39-40 and 52-30 no interest in running big big.   Suggestions for rear derailleur and shifter.   I have read that Shimano SGS long cage with B screw all the way in will shift to 40 cog.   Thoughts?


texts:
I ride my cruiser to the supermarket and back, using either a trailer or a basket over the front wheel for carrying groceries. The bike has developed a persistent slow leak on the front wheel, and I've replaced the tube without it helping. I can't see anything puncturing the tire, and the spokes aren't poking through the rim tape that I can see.

These are 26" wheels with low pressure (around 40 - 50 psi). What else can I look for that might be causing this?


texts: What is the correct way to put a helmet on?

texts:
I hear often claims similar to "many cyclists wear their helmets the wrong way" and "wearing a helmet incorrectly significantly reduces it's protective ability".

My helmet is similar to the following one(only with vent holes). Note the two-stage straps on both sides (that is, one can tighten the helmet forward-up and backwards-up).

The manual featured a couple of crossed out pictures - don't tilt the helmet over your eyes (duh!) and don't tilt it so far back, that the forehead is bare.

I am in doubt if I am using my helmet correctly. What are the checkpoints to cover, before being positive that the helmet is not providing just a false sense of security?

For example, tightening. How tight should the helmet be? Must it resist grabbing it by hand and forcing it sideways around my head?

Another question of particular interest to me concerns the rear straps. Those seem to either hang (very) loose, or, if I tighten them and when I tilt my head (slightly) forward, stretch out and limit the movement (in an uncomfortable way).


texts: What is required for a proper boost chainline on a 1x drivetrain - only a boost chainring or an entire crankset?

texts: To obtain a proper chainline for a boost rear hub (~52 mm), is it enough to fit a boost (3 mm offset) chainring to a 1x crankset which is originally non-boost, or is an entire boost crankset required (i.e. not only the chainring but also the crankarms)? Namely, I am buliding a boost bike and can get a very good deal for a SRAM groupset that has a non-boost DUB direct mount crankset. The simplest and cheapest way to go for me would be to buy the groupset and replace only the non-boost chainring (6 mm offset) with a boost variant (3 mm offset), while keeping the rest of the crankset. Would this work?


texts:
We see a proliferation of bike sharing services. Given that most shared bikes are kept outdoors all the time, I wonder what components and designs help to make them robust in order to keep maintenance cost down.

Here is a number that I found hard to believe, quoted by Horace Dediu on Twitter: Chinese dockless bike sharing companies employ one maintenance worker per 1000 bikes. Western dock systems are close to one per 30.

Addendum: From the Financial Times 26 Dec. 2017 "China bike-sharing apps find UK market tough to crack": According to Mr Seal-Driver, in Cambridge there are 23 operational staff for 450 Ofo bikes. Steve Pyer, UK general manager at Mobike, which does not employ people directly but uses third-party partnerships, says there are about 10-15 people for every 1,000 of its bikes.


texts: Why 2021 top-tier road bike are so dark? Is black/dark better looking or good looking is nothing at all anymore?

texts:
Why 2021 new road bike are so black and dark? And, most of them, the bike brand is even invisible.
The kind of color makes the bike looks like a "semi-finished product" (un-painting product).
Not only one big bike company does so, many major bike brands do so.
I am a buyer and I hope to know if it is a new trend and the reason behind the trend.
S-Works Tarmac SL7 2021

S-Works Diverge

Giant Advenced TCR SL0 2021

Cervelo Caledonia-5

Canyon Ultimate CFR Disc Di2

BMC Timemachine SLR 01 Frameset

You can find more and they are really dark, don't they?
Is it better looking?
Why bike brand should be hidden?


texts: Is it possible to fit an internal dropper to 2x bike

texts:
I'm thinking about getting a XC bike and fitting a dropper.

I've got my eyes on some of the cubes, ie
https://www.cube.eu/uk/2017/hardtail/reaction/cube-reaction-gtc-2x-carbonnflashred-2017/

It's got a narrow seat post (27.2mm) and the only cheap dropper I can find to fit it needs to be internally routed. (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-ascend-27-2-cx-dropper-seatpost/rp-prod159175)

Is it going to be possible to internally route this , when the bike has a 2x not a 1x setup?


texts:
In 2007, I bought my first bike: a Bianchi Boardwalk 2006.  It was a great bike, but I didn't treat it well and it now needs about $300 worth of work.

I've been thinking that maybe I'd like to take this time to upgrade.  Ideally, I'd like a bike that (1) requires less maintenance and (2) won't rip my jeans; I think I want an internally geared rear hub.  My understanding is that this requires horizontal drop outs, which the boardwalk does not have.

I loved how the Boardwalk rode (it was FAST) and it's geometry is up on Bianchi's website - I have the 23" model.  Is there any way for me to search premade bikes or just frames for ones with similar geometry?  Alternatively, is there any way to give my Boardwalk frame horizontal drop outs?


texts:
Are universal pedal axles weaker than standard axles? If so, should they be avoided?

These are inexpensive pedals so let's focus on inexpensive normal, solid axles vs these universal pedals.

Each pedal comes with a 1/2 inch and a 9/16 inch adapter that must be screwed into the pedal body.

The left pedal adapter threads in with a left hand thread, the right pedal adapter threads in with a right hand thread.

Edit 4/10/2020

Would they be strong enough for any of the following applications?

Could these pedals be strong enough for some applications not displayed below?

The following bikes were chosen because they come from bike shops with roughly comparable inexpensive plastic pedals.

All the bikes are Trek because it was easy to find a wide variety of Trek bicycles. This is not meant as an endorsement of Trek.

Option 1: Trek Tag Along

Option 2: Trek cruiser

Option 3: Trek children's bike

Option 4: Trek 24 inch wheel bike


texts: How do I work out tube and rim strip size

texts: I have a Schwinn Men's Volare 1200 Bike, 700c. Recently had a flat. I am confused. What size tubes do I need to buy? And also the rim strip snapped. What size rim strip should I order


texts: Rear index shifting not staying in middle gears

texts:
I have replaced a chain (SRAM PC 830) and 7 speed freewheel (Shimano MF-HG37) on the back of my daily commuter bike about 300 miles/ 3 weeks ago with the same models.  The old parts lasted me 4000 miles, and until recently, the new ones have been fine.  Now I'm having issues of my chain not staying in "6" gear and jumping to 7 (the smallest).  I can shift to and from it ok, just that it will jump in a few revs.  All the other gears work fine.  If I move the shifter a little bit it will go back, but within a few revs jumps right back down.

I have played with the high and low set screws since I'm also swapping wheels frequently too.  I had a axle break, switched to a backup wheel, went back to the repaired wheel, and then back to the backup now.  Through all that everything worked fine until the last swap.  The backup wheel is a identical replacement with the freewheel and tire transplanted.

I tried to adjust the barrel nut along with the "b" screw.  Both had no effects, but I didn't move them very far.  I haven't found the time to try to clean the derailleur yet, but when I swapped the chain I gave the bike a good cleaning, wax, and lube bath.   I'm worried that I missed something in the derailleur or it just got dirty since.  Jockey wheels are clean and secure, but have 5k miles on them.  Front derailleur selections also had no effect.

The derailleur model is a Shimano Tourney found a 2008(ish) Schwinn High Timber with the gripshifters.  Laid down 3k miles ago where the derailleur was scratched and banged up the limit screws but no effect on performance.


texts: Modern bike security, a lock with GPS and SIM card?

texts:
These days many things are getting GPS and these things often also have a SIM card, so they can connect to the internet. (I think some call this internet of things)
Is there any bike lock out there which incorporates these ideas?
Perhaps a device that sends a signal every i.e. 5s to the internet, and I can think of an app on my phone which then checks for this signal often. And trigger an alarm in case the signal isn't received.


texts:
I have a Maillard freewheel, big cog stamped 10 - 84, which i have taken apart, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled following the excellent youtube by RJ the bike guy

            .

i don't know for certain, but i may have "misplaced" the spacers which slide down the body and allow the pin spanner locknut from crushing the bearings. the freewheel is back together, but i cannot tighten the locknut and still have the cogs rotate.

Q; how far up the river am i, and what can i do to get new spacers/ what size?

thanks


texts:
Interesting problem on the only triple chainring bike I've ever owned (I've never run into this problem on a double chainring ever).  It has a 9-speed cassette.  In the middle chainring, the middle 3 rear gears hunt around.  Example, when in 5th sometimes it'll randomly jump up or down a gear.  6th, sometimes it'll jump down 1.  4th, sometimes it'll jump up 1.  It'll stay in the gear you put it for the majority of riding, but occasionally it'll suddenly just hunt around a little within that specific subset of gears and then settle down again.

It's been like that since brand new (2006, Cannondale with Shimano components, most notably the Flightdeck shifters).  My wife just lived with it (it was her bike originally).  When she crashed it (and gave up cycling), I inherited it and I also just lived with it for awhile.  Finally the last couple of years I've re-calibrated the shifting a few times in an attempt to solve this issue.  I can get everything spot on except for that pesky hunting right in the middle gears!

Tips/tricks specifically for adjusting shifting on these triple chainring bikes?


texts:
I've been procrastinating for several years about converting from Presta to Schrader on my Trek 4200 with Bontrager AT650 (erto 559x19) wheels. What finally convinced me was getting three flats on a recent ride. I had only one spare tube and getting a repair shop here in Thailand to deal with the Presta valves was a challenge; even though I had an adapter.

What still concerns me is assertions that doing so will weaken the rim.

I also have a Trek 7.2 FX which uses Bontrager AT750 wheels which have much narrower rims but use Schrader valves.

Does Bontrager do something special with the 750s that enables them to use the larger valve stem hole without weakening the rim?

Or, will I be OK drilling the 650s out to 8.5mm?


texts: Is it possible to move a wireless computer between two bikes?

texts:
I have a cateye velo 7 wireless computer on a Hybrid bike and I use it mostly to check the speed and track my miles like an odometer. I love it, its simple and cheap and works.

I recently got a road bike that I am going to use on the weekends and but I want the same computer to track my miles. It is possible to have two sensors on two different bikes and use the same computer?

the wheel size on both 700C


texts: What is this ... electrical bike's setup? Is there a particular brand or model name for this? how to replace its battery?

texts: Just bought it from someone, interested to get it fixed. he said it just needs to replace battery, I doubt it (after numerous experience with asking the sellers "what is wrong with the bike" and ends up there is always more things  are wrong). So I wonder, if this is actually a working electric bike at all... and where ahd how exactly I replace its battery? I do not see one lol Did google some video but none like this.


texts: Upgrading road and cyclocross bike with a single carbon cross bike

texts: I have the potential opportunity to buy a full carbon cross bike (fairly new Specialized Crux Pro, specs say around 17 pounds; not sure what it would be with pedals, etc.). I currently own (a mtn bike which is not part of this equation) a cruddy commuter, a Kona Jake 2010 (24 pounds!), and a Giant TCR2 2005 (21 pounds with aeros on). I race all of the bikes (ok, not the commuter), but my primary racing on the road bike is in triathlons where I throw on clip-on aerobars. My Jake weighs a ton, and I'd like to switch that over to being my commuter. But I also would like something a little lighter for my triathlons, and the compact geometry of the TCR2 doesn't work well with the aerobars. Would buying the carbon Specialized get me closer to my goals in one fell swoop (budget is very limited, but I'd get a second set of light road rims), or just get a new road or cross bike? I have some dream of someday buying a tri-bike, but that's a long way off. I'll also add that one of the things I really don't like about the Jake is that the brakes suck, and it can be downright scary on some trails. If it helps, I'm a female.


texts: I have a regular single speed pedal brake bike with 28 inch wheels. I would like to switch it over to 26 inch wheels. Would this cause any problems, or can I just easily change them over?


texts: Why does shifting under power affect shift quality?

texts:
I recently was attempting to shift up a hill and observed that

The shifting levers on the handlebars displayed significant resistance to my pushing them.
Despite several rotations of the crank, the bicycle had not shifted gears.

Googling around, I've seen people claim that pedaling under power increases chain tension and that this chain tension will affect how easily the chain moves between gears.

Intuitively, this does not make sense to me, as how easily the chain moves orthogonal to the direction of travel (i.e., the ease of shifting) would seem to be independent of the chain tensions parallel to the direction of travel. This seems to imply there's a causal relationship between the relative magnitudes of these forces.

Moreover, given that the chain itself is the same length regardless of the power transmitted, it's unclear to me how pedaling increases chain tension. Is it that one part of the chain becomes more tense, and the other becomes less tense? A free-body diagram type explanation would be very helpful.

How might one understand or model the shifting action and mechanism in a way that explains why chain tension affects shifting?


texts: What kinda of maintenance does a Sturmey Archer X-FDD DynoBrake hub need?

texts: I have a Sturmey Archer X-FDD dynohub and drum brake for about 2 years. I've riden it about 6000 miles and I don't know if it is due for maintenance or even what kind of maintenance is required. I can't seem able to find anything about it on the interwebs. Any pointers?


texts: Swapping position of Shimano shifter and brake lever

texts:
I have Shimano Acera shifter and Shimano MT200 hydraulic brakes. The brake lever is mounted outside and shifter is mounted inside of handle bar. See picture below.

I want to swap position of this two so that I can have better brake position as well as shifting position. Local bike shop said this can not be swapped.

Is it possible to swap positions of the shifter and brake levers? If it is not possible, then how can I adjust brakes so that I can use only index finger at the end of brake lever for braking without pushing the shifter too far inside?


texts: BB spindle length standard for single speed bike?

texts:
Is there a common spindle length for typical fixie/single speed bikes? Namely a bike with:

a 68 mm BSA bottom bracket shell
a square taper bottom bracket cartridge bearing
120 mm dropout distance
single chainring and single freewheel/fixed cog (flip-flop)
a wide single speed chain
fairly recent (2010+) cheap steel frame bike (sold expensively for being hip)

This question would be hopeless for bikes with doubles and derraileurs. However the considerable limitations on fixie chain lines might also have lead to a de-facto standard or a common spindle length most bikes share. The latter in particular, as these bikes appear to be standard mass-products that merely differ by colour, brand, and price tag.


texts: What maintenance does a front suspension fork need?

texts:
I've just bought a used bike on eBay, its a 2002 Marin Bobcat Trail. It has 'In-Sync 266' suspension forks. This is my first suspension bike so I need some guidance in the use and maintenance of these forks. I can't find any user manuals or anything online. Perhaps someone has one they could send me? Failing that, here are the questions.

The fork feels very soft to me, but I am a heavy rider and I'm not used to suspension forks. How do I know if the fork is working 'right'?
What maintenance can/should I carry out on the fork?
On the left hand side (only) there is an adjustment knob labelled just + and -. What does this do and how do I know how to adjust it? Why is it only on one side?

That should be enough to be going on with, any answers very much appreciated.

For guidance, my last bike was a 1995 Marin Bear Valley SE, hardtail, no suspension. AWESOME bike that served me well for over 17 years, until it was stolen a few months ago. I did all my own maintenance and I consider myself a competent cycle mechanic, its just that my skills are relevant to 17-year-old bikes :)


texts:
I have a set of rollers and a single-speed road bike. My 80-90 rpm speed is 27-30 kph (17-19 mph). I feel like I would be more stable with higher rpm, but it's harder to sustain.
If I understand this, the source of the bike's stability is the gyroscopic effect of a spinning wheel. So there are few more variables to that, like a wheel's mass, or even distribution of the mass within a wheel body. For the reference, my wheels are 27" and 1.5 kg (3.3 lbs) each, and I'm 70 kg (154 lbs) myself.
Can you share an experience with the speed-stability relation of a road bike on a set of rollers?


texts:
I just ordered Park Tool PPL-2 Polylube 1000 Grease Tub (1 Lb) from my LBS.  I was surprised when they didn't call it waterproof and tried to steer me to a Phil Wood product as the waterproof one, because I thought I'd seen Polylube described here as waterproof, i.e., suitable for unsealed bearings.  Nothing against Phil Wood, I just thought people said PolyLube was waterproof too.  Is it?

The Park Tool site says "repels moisture".  I assume that's the same as "waterproof" and the LBS person was just misinformed?


texts: Full suspension bikepacking. can it be done?

texts:
Some godforsaken piece of human waste stole my bike yesterday. Straight from my front garden. Now my two kids are scared the same people might return. Honestly, this kind of crime rates up there with rape and murder.

So now I have to spend money on a new bike. I did love my hardtail with a setup between a mtb and a forest trail racer. I especially loved week long trips with luggage attachments clipped onto the post and stem, frame bag too.

The only things I really envied were when I was on rough terrain on a luggage laden long distance trip watching the mtbrs on full sus go whizzing by. Sometimes with dropper seats.

Now I have to go and buy a new bike, I would love a cheaper full sus mtb. Problem is, can I go long distance on it, and how/where/with what do I attach luggage?


texts: Dangerous feature on a new 20" wheel kids bike? EZBuild pedals

texts:
TLDR: Rather than threading a pedal directly into the crank arm this bike maker has an EZBuild feature.   The pedal is threaded into a cast aluminum part at the factory that rotates around the crank arm. When shipped the pedals are in an upright position. When assembled the pedals is rotated to the correct orientation and held there by a spring and a pin.
Is this safe?
The pedals come already installed on the bicycle and look like this:

With the rubber boot off here's another angle:

The pedal is parallel to the frame rather than perpendicular.
To get the bike ready to use the pedal is rotated 90 degrees where the mechanism will be held in place by a pin and a spring.
Here is a picture of the pedal turned to a 45 degree angle:

End view with the pedal ready to ride:

The pedal mechanism with the boot moved out of the way:

The bike with the pedal ready to ride:

Bike makers want to ship a bike in a box that is as narrow as possible so they can get the most bikes possible in a shipping container or truck.
To keep the box narrow the pedals are not installed on the bicycle but are included in the parts box.
This feature is designed to:

Make assembly easier
Allow the factory to install the pedals rather than risk that the pedals be installed wrong and strip threads.
Keep the box narrow for optimum shipping.

But does this feature compromise rider safety?


texts:
The bottom bracket height on some bikes can be adjusted 7.0mm by flipping a "chip" in the shock mount linkage. This also affects head tube angle by 0.5 degrees.

Theoretically speaking, What are the advantages and disadvantages of having a lower bottom bracket setting vs a higher setting?


texts:
I have found a lot of documentation on the internet on how to chose the correct riding position for a mountain bike or a road bike.
The thing is that my bike doesn't fit in those classes.

My bike is exactly this one

I want to know what is the best riding position for my bike.


texts: Stuck compressed piston on a Clarks Skeletal Hydraulic Brake

texts:
I've opened up the reservoir and tried resetting the piston on the bleed nipple side and it won't budge. I haven't ridden this bike for about a year and the front wheel was off, and I also noticed when I was getting it out that the bleed nipple cover had come off/been taken off of the bleed nipple (if that's any contributing factor to the compressed piston).

Does anyone know what I need to do about this? I've tried a few times to open up the reservoir and them push the piston back with quite a lot of force and no results. It's pretty far out too, the pad sits a few millimetres off of the side where the pin is located, and the tire can't spin at all and doesn't sit completely in between the pads (they end up at a V shape because the pad is being pushed out by the piston but is still magnetised to it).

It's also just the one piston, the other is perfectly in place.

Also, I just pinched this picture off of their website: https://i.imgur.com/ZYV5YWC.png
Just to reaffirm, the picture isn't my brake, but the brake pad indicated to by the red arrow is the brake pad that is not sitting properly and it being pushed out by a compressed piston.


texts:
I just took home a shiny Van Nicholas Amazon frame. The bike shop provided me with some copper grease and told me to apply it on the bottom bracket, otherwise the frame would suffer from "cold bonding" over the years. Looking further in to it, I read that is best to apply it on every metal to titanium contact. I want to keep this frame for life, so I think this is important enough.

Question: does that go as well for :

the length of the seatpost that sits in the frame ?
seat clamp ?
bottle cage bosses ?
rear derailleur ?
front derailleur clamp ?

And, should I apply it wealthy or just a thin coat is enough ?

Edit: here is how I used the copper grease :


texts: What should I be looking for when buying reflective lights for night riding?

texts:
I would like to buy some reflective tape to stick on my wheels and to my frame to increase visibility at night.

From a look on ebay, it seems there's a variety of different types of reflective tapes with lots of different certifications and prices.

Can anyone tell me what the type I should be looking for that is most suitable to be stuck onto a bike?


texts:
What is the difference between these two front suspension types ?

and this type :

On the upper the suspension seems stronger but is there any difference in the build type ?

Please ignore the different branding and model.


texts: What are the pros and cons of different types of shifter cables?

texts:
What are the pros and cons of regular and slick gear/shifter cables? I just want easy gear changing. I have shimano gears if that helps. I know the difference between them, but I want to know some pros and cons.
What are the pros and cons the stainless steel or galvanised metal cables? I leave it in the shed at night, and when I am not using so it doesn't really get wet all the time. When I ride it often gets wet or muddy. I rarely clean the bike, so it often stays muddy.


texts: Magura rim caliper and Shimano hydraulic road lever compatibility

texts:
I have a trekking bike with a slightly short reach for me. On the other hand I wish to get a drop bar bicycle. I could check on this bike that the position is good with drop bars.
On this bike I have on front wheel a Magura MT5 disc brake, and on rear wheel a HS11 Magura rim brake, of course both hydraulic. My frame is rim brake only at rear. It used to be a 26in bike, but I could put 27,5 (584 mm) and adjust rear brake on it.
I have read that MT5 can work with Shimano road levers, but could not find information about HS11. I guess the question is on piston area.
Is it possible to make work HS11 and shimano hydraulic road lever (such as Tiagra 4700, GRX 400/600, or 106 R7000, to be defined).


texts: Low tire pressure causing fall in corner?

texts:
I recently fell in a corner. My front wheel lost traction (slid out from underneath the bike, what they call a 'lowsider' in motorcycling iirc).

I was running quite low tire pressure (front wheel) to improve front wheel grip, which worked wonders to improve the grip when braking (front brake) in wet weather. But I was wondering if a front wheel tire pressure which is too low can cause one to fall in a corner.

Note: the tire did not roll off of the rim (the tire was still fully on the rim after the fall).

My front tire wasn't worn excessively and is quite new (a year old, plenty of thread left, Schwalbe big ben 26x2.15" folding tire (using inner tubes, so not tubeless). My rim's outer diameter is 26mm (if this makes any difference). My wheel was in good condition before the crash (properly tensioned, no cracks in rim). My bike had some luggage (on the rear rack) on it weighing approx 30kg, the bike with all the luggage weighs approx 45kg. my weight is 80kg. The bike is a hardtail mtb using 120mm travel rock shox reba suspension (in good condition), 26 inch wheels.

I wasn't braking (in the corner). It was dry (temp approx 15 Celcius, surface was tarmac with some loose pieces laying on top (not sure how much, I was distracted by my tacoed front wheel so didn't look very closely, but judging from the pieces of tarmac in my hand there was some loose stuff :P).

I was going approximately 25-30kph (a bit fast for the corner's radius). Here is an image of the corner:

Here's a picture taken standing on the road approaching the corner (sorry I couldn't find a better photo..):

Location of corner on google maps:
https://goo.gl/maps/9x4xXEWvxYZk8TwE6

Questions:

I would expect lower tire pressure to give larger contact patch also when cornering so should equate to more grip in corners (assuming the tire stays on the rim).
Is this assumption wrong? Does the cornering grip decrease under a
certain amount of pressure? (still assuming the tire stays on the rim
under this low pressure)?
if such low tire pressure is detrimental to cornering grip, what is the reason the cornering grip is decreased?
what could i have done to prevent this accident ? (apart from taking the corner slower)?

tire thread condition:

Note: I just noticed from the last picture that can be seen above (the photo taken from the bridge deck approaching the corner) that the first part of the bridge has an incline of approx 5 degrees but just before the corner starts it appears as if the incline decreases or disappears completely (aka bridge deck becomes horizontal in the corner), which could perhaps be an explanation as to why I lost grip (front tire may have momentarily lifted due to the decrease in incline, which combined with the lean angle required for taking the corner caused the accident. What are your thoughts on this? It could be an optical illusion though, I did not pay much attention to the exact angles of the bridge after the incident occurred. could go back to check once I get a new wheel.

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Wheel after crash:

(NOTE: wheel 'folding in half' was caused by front wheel hitting fence posts of the bridge after losing traction/front wheel sliding sideways, as can be seen from the two dents in the rim highlighted in red in the last photo).


texts: Tyre loosing air pressure despite having no puncture

texts: The front tyre on my bike looses air pressure despite there being no punctures. There is no leak via the Schrader valve either. If I fill up the tyre, it looses a considerable amount of pressure by day 3. What could be causing this?


texts: Can i use 26er tires and rims on a gravel fork?

texts: I'm planning to make a gravel bike out of mtb frame but still use the mtb tires, the specific tire size is 26x2.0. The problem is i can't find proper 26er fork with disc mounts, can i use gravel forks instead?


texts: Is it possible to change to a larger and type of crankset from a one-piece Ashtabula style?

texts:
I made an E-Bike out of a cheap bike. It uses those one piece cranks. I was wondering if I could get a bigger gear. The motor top speed is 36km/h and I would like to assist the motor while going at that speed. But as is, past 24km/h, it's too fast to allow me to assist.
With this types of crankset I never found anything different than that size gear. If I found some other crankset types would it fit into the frame's crank shaft? Is it standardized?
My bike has a 5 speed derailleur, 20inch wheels. The crank is as seen in the example bike image. Motor is front hub.


texts: Can you use a 9 / 10 speed chainring with an 8 speed chain?

texts: Does it matter if you use a chainring which is specified at 9 / 10 speed with a 8 speed chain?


texts: Using compressor gauge to determine tyre pressure?

texts:
I own one of these "pistols" used with compressors, but have no idea on how to use them to determine the pressure inside my (tubeless) tyre.

When I inflate my tyre the values on the gauge get immediately to 80 psi, which, I believe, is the average pressure in the whole tyre+compressor tank system?

Thanks in advance.


texts: How to choose pedals with 1/2 inch axle (single piece crank) for a non-bmx?

texts: Me and my daughter use a tag-along, and her pedals are slippery. So I'm looking for a pair of metal pedals. Due to the axle size, most of them are advertised as BMX, are too wide and long (10x13 or so). Cheap ones (£10) spin poorly. I would appreciate if you could suggest a model or a price range or an ebay/amazon search query that could help me find what I'm searching for.


texts:
Anyone have a clue what type of brake I can fit to this front fork?

The reach to a 700C wheel would need to be 80MM (do you even get calipers this long?) and the only brazing on the fork is this weird looking bottle opener thing so no option for canti's etc........stumped!!


texts: I have a Kona Rove ST 2019. The specs only say "Spokes: Stainless Black 14g". How do I know the precise reference so I can buy some spare ones online?


texts: how do i stop my Formula disk brakes from squealing

texts:
I have seen a number of posts about stopping discs from squealing, but mine don't always squeal, when the squealing starts it doesn't stop (as if something has worn off) and it's not worn out pads.

Is it true that some makes and models of discs just squeal? If so, time to change brake manufacturer?

Is it true that different compound pads will make the squealing stop?


texts: Since seat tube angle has little effect on max power output, why not adjust the reach with saddle setback?

texts:
According to this article, a seat tube angle between 65 and 110° has little effect on max power output. At most, it varied 1%.
https://www.me.utexas.edu/~neptune/Papers/jab26%284%29.pdf

Adjusting the setback would affect the effective STA. The reason for a more forward seat position seems to be an aerodynamic position.

If it works, it can allow wrong sized bikes to fit. If the bike is too large, the reach would be too long so to decrease it, the seat is moved forward. If the bike is two sizes too large, one might flip the seat post to move the seat even further forward. The opposite is true for a bike that's too small.

Is it possible it's rarely done because it affects aesthetics, preferred postures, safety reasons, or weight distribution?


texts: How much axle space for the cap nuts and chain tugs?

texts:
I am investigating whether I can insert cap nuts with too short axle attaching area. The image below is exaggerated but the attaching areas are about 1.2cm and 0.95cm. The difference 0.45cm meant in 6 months that the left cap nut became broken, metal spaghetti. I squeezed about 0.2cm from the past configuration due to the wrong conf, now the difference is about 0.25cm, but suppose I place there a chain tug, it will take away about 0.2cm and the problem may re-emerge: again metal spaghetti and broken cap nuts. So how much space should be reserved for cap nuts in axles?

The cap nut is about 2.1 cm deep.

1.23cm with the right cap nut, no problem, the nut in good condition. After placing there a chain tug, the space is about 1.0cm. 1.04cm with the left cap nut. With chain tug, the space is about 0.8cm. Even with 0.9, I got metal spaghetting and broken cap nut after 6 months. A problem?

Related

question about naming of cap-nuts here


texts:
When they say 135mm hub I don't particularly understand. What are you measuring? The radius?

They say that a particular hub will be short for fitting gears. I say if I change rear wheel completely, then is the problem solved?


texts: Why are my wrists the first part of my body to start aching during a long ride?

texts:
Most riders seem to say it's their groin, neck or lower back that starts hurting first after a decent distance has been ridden. For me it is my wrists.

I have no history of wrist pain (strains, breaks etc) so it can't be explained by that and I try to adjust my hand positions across my handlebars as often as I can.

My question has 2 parts:

1. Is there anything I can do to minimise pain in terms of riding position, gloves, exercises etc which will reduce soreness?

2. Why might this pain be occurring?

*I do all of my riding on paved roads on a road (Specialized Allez) bike.


texts: What road hub makes the least amount of noise

texts: What brand rear hub and cassette has the lowest noise level for a road bike ?


texts: What is a good daytime nutrition plan for evening racing

texts:
I've joined a local road racing league, it's lots of fun. I'm pushing myself and breaking lots of PBs in the process of trying not to get dropped (which I inevitably do).

As well as the craft of racing, I'm also learning about the logistical side of holding down a full time job and transporting myself + bike + kit to the various venues in time to sign on, get set up & get some time in on the rollers before briefing and race start.

So, currently my timetable for the day looks like this:

7:00 - get up, get self & kids ready (beakfast is usually porridge)
8:30 - leave for work
9:00 - arrive at work

* WHAT SHOULD I EAT AND AT WHAT TIMES DURING THIS PART OF THE DAY *

5:30 - leave work to drive somewhere
6:30 - or so, arrive at venue &
get ready
7:00 - RACE!
8:30 - (or thereabouts) finish! (hopefully not
last!)

Then pack everything up & go home drinking a protein shake thing that I make.

I also have the option to go the gym during the day, which I have been doing just to do a bit of stretching and mainly use the foam rollers.

So, as a vegetarian, what would be a good plan of what to eat and at what times in order to deliver myself to the start line as full of energy as possible? Races are all about 35 miles.


texts: How to guesstimate correct tire pressure in the winter?

texts:
I ride a rather generic Merida hardtail mountainbike throughout the year. I don't own a pump with a gauge so I usually pump my tires at gas stations (that have automatic pumps with gauges).

The problem is the following: I pump the tubes outdoors, but the bike is stored indoors most of the time. Usually I just fill the tires so that they're a little bit softer than usual as to avoid having too high pressure after the air warms up indoors.

Is there a good method to guesstimate how much lower (in bar) the pressure should be related to the norm to accommodate for this change? Is this worth worrying about to begin with?

If it matters, the temperature difference between out- and indoors can easily be 35°C (~95°F; -20°C outside, +15°C inside).


texts: How to handle motorists' dangerous behaviour with an impassable group?

texts:
I rode in a Velowagen (1) with over 300 cyclists on the national bike route in Switzerland, while on a narrow countryside road a few cars began piling behind us and one of them started trying to pass in an increasingly aggressive manner. At some point the left lane was free for a few meters and he started accelerating with the intent of klaxxonning (honking/blasting the horn) his way into getting a free lane as fast as he was moving. (2)

To avoid a potential accident, my hotblooded reaction was to get in front of him and brake to force him to stop. After that and me nearly being run-over, the driver got out, almost started a fist fight, and a shouting match in French and Deutch followed between the two very angry of us, which very slowly allowed for a de-escalation and a safe distance to the convoy.

In a similar situation, where a cyclist mass is blocking the road and drivers getting violent, how can the motorists be handled in a way that minimizes the risks ?

(1) A Velowagen is a big group of diverse cyclists going to a protest in another city. Includes every kind of riders : lycra, commuters, coursiers and families with children, so the global speed is around 15-20 kmh. The goal is not to intentionally block the road but to move across the country on the intended bike routes to keep the convoy safe.

(2) While most cyclists were in the correct lane, a few were in the wrong lane to pass or because the group was very dense)


texts:
I have a womens Magna Glacier Point that a friend gave to me (I'm sure that's probably a low grade target brand). I recently got a job about a mile from my house, but there's two steep inclines I have to ride (one going down and the other going up) and I've found it's difficult to do.
I know that there's different types of bikes (fitness, commuter, etc.), would it be better to get a hybrid or some other bike, or are there modifications I can make to my current bike to make it a little easier to ride uphill? Or should I just tough it out and build those leg muscles and not be a wimp?
Thanks for any advice!


texts:
I was going to buy some super cheap - I mean barely more than 50 cents per meter - brake cable.

Am I in any danger of sudden failure?  I don't mind replacing the cable after a year or something, but I'm sort of worried about it outright breaking and then trying to kill me.


texts: Bike Rack (w/hitch) - Any easy-to-remove anti-wobble bolts/pins?

texts:
I've just purchased a hitch for my car and the Allen S535 bike rack.  It comes with an anti-wobble bolt that is screwed onto the hitch but it is very time consuming when I need to remove the rack off the car.

Is there any solution besides using the anti-wobble nut/bolt?


texts:
I've sourced a 2010'ish Cube Agree GTC with very little use on Easton wheels.
Long story..... but I wanted to replace the noisy freehub and have sourced a new Fulcrum RT-013 unit. However I've lost the screw that locks it in place - its an externally threaded hollow "screw" that fits in from the non drive side and nips the static part of the freehub into a "splined" recess, machined into the alloy wheel hub ( driven by a large hex / allen key)
Ive searched various websites / exploded drawigns and cant find it so am struggling to source a replacement - either new or used
Pity as the wheels are otherwise in excellent condition and I've just spent £40 on a new freehub!
Does anyone have a part number for this item or any suggestion of how to source ....


texts: Will mounting a camera on the handlebar instead of the helmet make the picture more shaky?

texts:
I do a short commute in Paris (about 7 km / 30 minutes each way) and I am seriously considering adding a camera (maybe 2) to my bike to be able to report dangerous behaviour and also generally because it's fun and interesting.

I've seen a lot of great footage on the web but I wonder how they get such a stable picture. I guess that helmet mounted cameras produce an inherently more stable picture but I also heard of stabilizing software.

The thing is I don't wear a helmet and I would like to fix my camera to the handlebar. My bike (Cross Areal CR) has suspension in the front, however I'm not sure it's enough to dampen the road shake, though my route is mostly on smooth asphalt (some potholes, some old paved passages).

Does mounting a camera on the handlebar mean that I must invest in a more expensive stabilized camera or do you find that most cameras work just a well? Are there any tricks to getting a stable picture with such a setup?


texts: Will Stans No-Tubes (or other tubless tire sealant) work in a standard tube to prevent leaks?

texts:
I typically buy tubes with removable valve cores (Qtubes brand typically) and I have some stans leftover from a tubeless tire setup for my mountain bike.

Would adding Stans to the tubes on my commuter bike help prevent flats? Or would this cause more problems than it's worth?


texts:
I have a 105 triple chainset (hollowtechII) and the left hand side has developed a crack. Now I can't find any replacement 105 LH cranks but there are some Deore ones on the ebays that aren't too expensive.

So will they fit? I know since it's Shimano nothing is compatible with anything else, you're supposed to just go out and buy a whole new bicycle, but I'm hoping…


texts: Can i put two rubber rim tapes on a single wheel (single wall rim)

texts:
I have an old single wall rim type, with spokes protruding. When there is a single rubber rim tape the spokes are forming (coated) "hills" inside the rim which are not sharp but are protruding a bit and i am afraid that they will endanger the inner tube.
Is it ok to install second rubber rim tape over the existing one to flatten out the "hills". The tyres are mtb 12" and the air pressure will be around 60psi-65psi, and the load around 220lbs.
Or is it ok to leave the "hills" forming inside the rim with one rim tape?


texts:
When riding, I have found myself in a posture where my shoulders are raised (like a shrug).  I assume this is a bad posture.  When I notice it, I correct myself.  However, sometime later I might find myself in this position again.

What can I do to correct this, besides just trying not to do it?

Is it a bike setup problem?  Can I do any exercises off the bike to improve this.


texts: Determining if a road is safe to bike on

texts:
How do you determine which roads are safe to ride on and which should be avoided? What traffic patterns do you feel comfortable riding in, and which ones set off alarms? What sorts of intersections do you avoid? How about for nighttime riding; are the same roads safe at night, or do you take a different route at night than you would during the day? Are there any statistics on ratio of accidents to total bicycle usage on certain roads to help inform this decision?

There are several streets in my area that I will always avoid. There are a few parkways with no shoulders whatsoever, narrow lanes, winding roads, fast moving traffic, and very few stop lights and side streets to calm traffic. There are several that I feel pretty confident on, with reasonably wide bike lanes, low traffic, and frequent intersections that mean that traffic doesn't usually get too fast and drivers are on the lookout for people turning in. I'm just wondering if there are any more objective criteria I can use, or good rules of thumb, for where it's safe to ride.


texts: How do I remove the axle protector after shipping

texts: I recently purchased a road bike, and while assembling it I found a piece of plastic to protect the bottom of the fork legs. A mountain biker, I always used different protection for that part and am not sure how to get it off I tried pulling fairly hard, and I'm a decently strong guy, but am I just being wimpy? It seems to be a solid piece of plastic except for some rectangular holes underneath the legs. Is there something I'm missing? After some research, this is what the part looks like:


texts: Why is this rear wheel not aligned with the frame?

texts:
My LBS sold me a new wheel.  I put on the new wheel.  I'd go back to the LBS, but I'm afraid that I live far away from them.  Alas, I'm now having this problem:

As you can see, the wheel is quite not aligned to the frame.  This is a picture of either side:

and

I had to use cone wrenches to remove a spacer (?) (metal ring of some sort) or there was no possible way the wheel was going on, at least that's what I thought at the time; it's base was too long for the frame.  Is there something wrong or is this just the wrong size of wheel?


texts: increase highest upper ratio with gear hub

texts:
I have a 20" folding bike with a shimano Nexus Inter-3 (most probably this one), and I find that even on flat terrain (not to mention downhill) the 3rd gear is simply too slow: I often find myself cranking very fast exerting a very low torque, and 2nd gear is good for most slopes (<15%). I mainly use the bike for commuting, on mostly flat terrain.

My current top speed seems to be around 20-25 km/h, I would like to be able to do 40 km/h. That means an increase by a factor of two.

I am searching for a way to up the gear ratio, my options seem to be:

Increase the size of the front chainring (45 currently):

This would make folding harder.
I would also need to change the chain protector and possibly the pedals.

Decrease the size of the rear cog (18 currently):

This would increase the strain on the individual cogs and increase the chance of slipping (that already happened) and chain fall-off.

Change the gear hub to one with a higher upper ratio:

May need to change the shifter and corresponding wiring
May not fit in the current frame
The current ratio is 1.360, I would like at least 1.8 or even 2.0
I do not really need gears below 1.0, and certainly not below 0.73 (my current 1st gear). Unfortunately most gear hubs concentrate on the lower gear ratios, but I am yet to find a comprehensive table of available gear hubs (wikipedia's, and Sheldon Brown's have different flaws). Shimano's 4-speed hub seems promising, but is discontinued.

Which solution (or combination of them) do you recommend? If it is the third, what specific gear hub(s) do you recommend?


texts: What is this part that came with my eggbeater pedals?

texts:
I bought some second-hand Crank Bros Eggbeater pedals. They came in the original box, apparently with all the bits except the cleats. (That's fine. CB cleats are effectively a consumable.)
One of the bits is a pair of plastic pieces I don't recognize. I'm still working on getting a photo from my phone in a place I can upload it, but in the meantime, please enjoy these ASCII drawings:
  ___     ,     ,       ___
 / _ \    |__   |__    /   \
( (_) )   |▓▓   |__   (  *  )
 \___/    |     |      \___/
 Front   Side   Side    Back
               Cutaway

Each piece is a plastic disc with a knurled edge. From the disc, a ring is extruded, with threading on the outside of the ring. The ring's inner diameter is 10mm, and the outside is ~13.5mm. The outside diameter seems to be the same as a pedal spindle diameter, but the threading has a different pitch. There's also a very small hole through the centre of the disc, so it can't be used to seal anything.