texts: Flared drop bars making my wrists numb, so am I using them wrong?

texts:
I bought a Fuji Jari that comes with flared (25-degree) bars. When I ride, my hands go numb within two miles even though I've been to a fitter. I've found that to keep my wrists straight, I have to spread my elbows out ridiclously, otherwise no matter how I hold the bars, I end up with my wrists pointing outward after a few revolutions. I'm trying to decide whether the problem is the flaring and I just need straight drop bars, or whether I'm too close to them and so my wrist bending is inevitable.

Now I realize no one can really diagnose this blind, so what I want to ask this group is whether there is anyone riding a road/gravel bike with flared drop bars who finds them very comfortable, or if many people here have had similar issues?


texts: I need to replace a stiff twist-grip shifter with a thumb shifter to make gear down-changes easier for my wife. There is a choice of two available locally: Shimano SL-TX50R Tourney and Shimano Altus SLM310R7AT. Are these compatible with a Shimano TX rear derailleur?


texts: Can we turn a fixie bike into a freewheeler?

texts:
I'm new to the fixie world. I'm planning to buy a fixie bike though, but to start right away would be difficult especially when I'm pedaling down hill. Is it possible to change the fixie bike into the freewheeler with both front and back brakes?

Please HELP!


texts: Bumpy ride. Is it the casing or the inner tube?

texts:
I pumped a new tube to about 80 psi (I missed that on the casing the recommended pressure is 100 psi). On the ride immediatly, I hit a very small kerb harder than I wished and after I noticed that my ride was bumpier than usual (though I couldnt say for sure if it's because of the kerb). Upon visual inspection, I notice that the casing doesn't go perfectly round (between the lowest point and the highest there seems to be maybe a 3-4 mm difference). The inner rim seems round enough but the whole wheel (back wheel) seems a bit wobbly.

I think it's not the rim that has issues. How can I check if I need to change the casing or the inner tube?

Thank you.


texts: 30mm bottom bracket and 30mm spindle axle compatibility, should it go in by force?

texts:
I am not sure if this is a stupid question or not. Finding compatible parts is not so easy for MTB, after quite a search I found my bottom bracket shell is not so standard, PF107.
I bought a Rotor raptor bundle, this includes a supposedly-30mm external-diameter spindle axle that should fit the Rotor bottom bracket 4130, which supposedly has 30mm internal-width. I did not buy the wrong parts, they are mentioned in the manufacturer website, even the BB says it is compatible with the axle.
However, there is no way I can put the axle through the bottom bracket, at least with my hands. They both have 30mm exactly, I would say either of them should have a slightly different measure, so that the axle can slide into the bottom bracket.
I am new to fitting MTB parts, but my road bike doesn't have this issue, the spindle goes through the bottom bracket effortlessly.
Hence the main question is: Should the axle fit by force into the bottom bracket? (I would need to apply quite some pressure, probably just like fitting the bottom bracket to the frame).
If not, would I have the same problem with other 30mm bottom brackets?
I am wondering if this is a design mistake on the bottom bracket or on the axle. If most 30mm bottom brackets have slightly more than 30mm internal diameter, then a 30mm diameter spindle can fit, and I can just return the BB-4130, go and buy another BB107 for 30mm and solve the problem.
Otherwise, if the axle is too wide (so, most 30mm spindles are slightly less than 30mm and this one is not), then it is pointless trying to fit this crankset and I should return all the products right away.
I do not have another 30mm crankset or BB to know what's the issue, my road bike uses 24mm.
Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!


texts: Does anyone sell a direct-drive recumbent with no handlebars?

texts:
This document well describes the benefits of a direct-drive recumbent. Is there any carbon-frame recumbent, commercially available, that implements all its recommendations.

And what are the pros and cons of having no handlebars like this ?


texts:
My HUb is a Nexus SG-8R31, 7 years and 3500 miles (5600Km) old. It has just developed a loud "clicking" noise when going forward, This happens both on and off the bike. It sounds like a broken ball bearing or pawl spring but I haven't dismantled it (yet).
Has anyone experienced the same problem and found the cause of this clicking? Is it repairable or do I have to replace the whole internal assembly?


texts: How can I replace my front cog... or fix slipping off on folding bike?

texts:
I have a Faulkner folding bike and I notice often the 6th gear, high gear falls off switching to high gear. Someone mentioned that the cog might be a bad choice for the front of folding bike and may be why it has the plastic guard around it - not just for keeping it off your pant leg.

It's generally been falling off and pulling the guard off, which it sticks in now... the deraileur high setting seems right as I moved it a bit and had other problems... it stays in the right gears adjusting it back.

Should I take the cheap plastic guard halves and the little screws screwing them together and replace with screw+bolts to make it more secure, maybe insert a metal shim? or replace the whole front crank? I found this but it doesn't list a place to size and purchase replacement front cog. https://www.downtube.com/pages/convert-to-triple-chain-ring-should-you-do-it/

EDIT - Here's a picture of the problem crank:


texts:
I'm planning to buy my first bike as an adult, mainly to go to work (about 6 km far from home). Today I went to the bike shop and tried a Giant Escape and and Giant ATX. From my unexperienced point of view the difference was that ATX have suspension, and it was noticiably more smooth to ride (I really like it). Although the Espace was very good, comparing to a mobike I'm used to ride.
The difference in price was not that much, 2000rmb (escape) to 2400rmb (atx). Although most of the home to work route is fine there are some parts where suspension might give extra welcome confort. But I also see its one more thing to add weight and maintenance to the bike.
Would you guys buy a montain bike to go to work? Or perhaps I should try another bike model?


texts: Modded folding bike and strange chain skipping on most gears

texts:
I've a folding Tern Link D8 that I've started customize by replacing some parts...what is driving me nuts is a strange chain skipping that happens on some gears and only when I apply some force (starting from moderate hill)

On the drivetrain I've replaced:

crankset ( FSA Carbon Pro Team Issue ) - USED
bottom bracket ( fsa platinum Isis drive) - NEW
cassette (Shimano XTR CS-M950 8 speed cassette 12-30T ) - USED
rear derailleur (  Shimano XTR M950 8 speed ) - USED
Sram gripshift with the right index ratio for Shimano - NEW
Shimano chain for 8 speed - SOMEWHAT USED

What I've tried without any noticeable difference until now:

Chain tension: I've removed or added a couple of links
Adjusted the rear derailleur as per manual (hanger alignment and L/H-screws)
checked for stiff links
switched with the original rear derailleur ( Neos )
checked the cassette teeth...there is some wear but plenty of life here

The skipping is happening without changing gear, and seems a sort of "chain that jump on the chainring" feel.
On the smallest chainring usually it wont happen...I've made a video to better understand what kind of skipping is, but even in slowmotion I can really grasp what happens.

slow motion

original

Can you give me some suggestions?

SOLVED: the culprit were the worn teeth on the cassette: look at the pic below, I've highlighted the increased gap that cause chain to skip

green=still good
red= too worn


texts: Can I flip my worn chain to extend it's life?

texts: Assuming my chain is showing that it's worn and getting close to needing replacement due to chain 'stretch'. I know you can flip single speed chainrings to extend their life when they become worn. Can I flip the chain around to extend it's useful life? I  doubt it would double it due to some overlap in wear on rollers, but possibly extend it a bit by putting load on the opposite side of the pins.


texts:
I rounded the flats on the seatpost clamp bolt (it's an Allen bolt; i.e. I turn it with a Allen key) that came with my bike (2014 Fuji Absolute). I found a replacement for the bolt at a local hardware store, but it's a Philips screw, not a bolt. It's the same size and fits the clamp perfectly.

Is it safe to install? Is there any chance of damaging the bike?

My primary concerns are due to not really understand what torque has to do with seatpost clamps, and other bike repair forums insisting you use a torque wrench lest you damage things. But I think that might apply more carbon fiber bodies.

Philips Screw

Allen Bolt


texts: Pistons are aligned only without pads in

texts:
I've reset the pistons (after taking the pads out) of my XT hydraulic brakes, and made sure they do extract evenly when operating the lever.
After putting the pads and the wheel back in (and adjusting the bracket mount to a symmetrical position over the rotor), the left piston extract much more than the other one, which was the reason i wanted to reset it in the first place.

Any ideas why?


texts: I have a Marin small steel frame MTB circa 1997. Is it possible to upgrade to today's parts such as 10 speed derailleurs and shifters. I'm pretty sure disk brakes are out of the question. If so any suggestions on where to start.


texts:
Can I change group set of this bike from Tiagra to Ultegra 8XXX without changing wheel? If yes, does it depend on geometry of rear fork?

I am asking because I would like to know whether it is cheaper to buy a new bike like this and occasionally change group elements (with used) Ultegra and you will get after some months one pro bike :).

Thanks for your time

More about what I want to buy here


texts: Tightening torque: 5Nm, 40Nm... how do I tell?

texts:
I have wonderful new manuals everywhere, of brakes, wheels...
In these manuals I see "tighten up to 5Nm", "tighten up to 40Nm".

There must probably be tools with such measurements on them, but I don't have any.
Is there a way, an equivalent I can use to know the approximate torque I'm putting on my tools?


texts: Not able to get crank bolt into bottom bracket spindle

texts:
I recently posted a question about changing my chainset, I was advised on this  SRAM chainset which I could use which would fit my square tapered bottom bracket.

I have attempted to fit the new chainset and managed to get the crank with the chainrings on onto the bottom bracket spindle. However, I am struggling to get the other crank onto the bike because I cannot seem to screw the other bolt that came with the chainset into the bottom bracket with or without the crank. It screws around but does not screw in. This is preventing me from getting the other crank onto the bike. I am not sure if I am doing something wrong, could buying grease for the bolt help attach it or should I contact the seller and try asking for a new bolt?

Here are some photos of the bottom bracket, the problem bolt, and the crank which I added to the bike:


texts: Is throttle-only possible for mid-drive?

texts: Suppose I want an electric bike with throttle. Is mid-drive (crank based) even an option? I got impression that mid-drive means pedal assist only (PAS).


texts:
I was wondering if someone could help me? I have recently bought a Specialized Allez Sport road bike (61cm frame) and due to my weight I’m looking to upgrade the wheel set straight away due to my weight 140kg. Having researched I have found that either Velocity Deep V or H Plus Son SL42 wheel sets would be suitable for my weight, but how do I know if they are suitable for my bike? Will they fit? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Spinning vs city bike riding to keep tone

texts:
When it comes to winter time, it is always a tough time for cyclists.

In order to keep a decent tone and shape, what is better?

a spinning class, 3 x 1 hour / week (that's what my local gym offers, a group of spinning bikes in front of a monitor, where a virtual trainer guides your through a virtual ride on some Tour de France mountain or the like)
cycling to work, 10 x 45-60 minutes / week without pushing to the limit


texts: Suitable remedy for chain damaged by bike shop

texts:
I've got a fairly old Dawes Discovery 301 (not sure of the year); earlier today I took it to a shop to have a replacement bottom bracket fitted. I rode it 2 miles home, and noticed a slight intermittent skipping feel and noise from the chain which hadn't been there previously. I didn't stop to investigate until I got home as both the noise and the feel seemed "minor" (learning point for me there). When I did, I found that one link on the chain had one side detached with the pin sticking partway out; the eyelet on the detached side is quite bent. I'd attach a photo but my camera has apparently stopped working. It's not an easy-open link or anything else fancy.

I'm concluding that the chain's been re-fitted badly. I plan on returning to the bike shop (not riding the bike!) and asking for a new chain to be fitted free of charge. I can clearly see the lettering on the links saying it's a KMC Z40, which I'm guessing is discontinued because I don't get any relevant-looking hits on a search. It's on a Shimano CS-HG30-81 cassette.

Questions:

1) Is my plan reasonable, or is it well-known for older chains not to re-attach well? I've measured the chain to look for lengthening due to wear (per http://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm) and I believe it's at most 1/16th out at the 12-inch mark, so I'd say it's worn but not excessively so. The cassette doesn't "look" terribly worn either. I acquired the bike recently-ish from a relative so can't be sure about its previous use history, but I don't think it was massively punished.

2a) If 1) answers "yes", is there any specific type of chain I need to ask for? I ride on roads most days and on light off-road trails on occasional days.

2b) If 1) answers "no", please can you advise on an alternative strategy? I recognise this is subjective and calls for opinions, but I'd be interested to see what others think is reasonable in this situation.

I've used this shop before and always believed them to be reputable.


texts: Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brakes vs Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes

texts:
My current bike has this brake set: "Tektro HD-M285 post mount hydraulic disc brakes with 160mm 6-bolt rotors and Tektro levers."
I have read many places online that people prefer "Shimano M315, hydraulic disc, 160mm." I am considering an upgrade, but I have yet to see any scientific fact behind which brand is more appropriate for certain environments. Is this truly a matter of opinion or is there factual evidence to prove that one is more efficient and durable than the other?


texts: What is preferred lacing for PowerTap wheel build?

texts:
I've done quite a few wheel rebuilds to make them stronger, but haven't built up a wheel around a PowerTap (SL+) yet. This will be for a training set for a fit triathlete. Raw weight is not an issue, but he's probably putting a few watts done for hours at a time.

My inclination would be to do my "standard" rear wheel build, drive side X3 and non drive side Radial, but wonder if there are pros/cons to other lacings when power is involved.


texts: At any instant how many teeth in a (not new) 52 chainring are actually doing the chain pulling when torque is being applied.


texts: Derailleur play between cage and knuckle

texts:
I have a Shimano 2300 rear mech that's done about 10,000m over ~7 years. Lately I've had trouble getting clean shifting and find myself constantly twiddling barrel adjusters... I'm certain the cable tension is good and (by my eye) the mech hanger is straight, but there's a certain amount of play between the cage and the body:

Will this affect the shifting much and, if so, is it repairable, or time to get a new mech?

EDIT
Closer shot of the hanger, which does look like it has a slight bend in it, now that I can zoom in this close without my long-sightedness furring things over somewhat.


texts:
An advert for their PC-1031 chain on chainreaction said the Powerlink Powerlock was one time use only; you couldn't attach the chain, detach it and then attach it again without a new Powerlock.

I understand Powerlocks probably only guaranteed the first time, but in practical terms does it really work that way? Do chains usually snap if you try to reuse the Powerlock?


texts: Is there any benefit to riders on the front of a paceline?

texts:
You can save a lot on air resistance by drafting a rider closely, i.e. riding close to their rear wheel.

What about the rider in front? Is there a benefit, a loss, or is there no difference?

Edit - is there any way or position ensuring front cannot feel any energy loss while you enjoy resting behind or speedup ?


texts: Do pedal-driven bicycles exist that can handle highway commutes?

texts:
Do pedal-driven bi/tricycles exist which can be driven at highway speeds without fuel or electric drive assistance?

Assisted brakes, steering, lights, and amenities such as climate control or navigation are valid addons as long as the drive system is manually operated. Drive assistance must be limited to gearing (and perhaps flywheels.)


texts: How do I lock out the front fork on my RST Neon shock?

texts:
I have a Trek 7150SE(Scheels Edition) that came stock with a RST Neon front fork. I would like to lock it for road biking but haven't been able to figure out how.

I tried to turn the top of each side of the fork but it wouldn't budge by hand. I then tried a basic plumbing wrench and if started to strip the plastic.

Is it possible to lock this fork, and if so, how?


texts: How to install press fit bottom bracket into new frame

texts:
I bought a new carbon frame, which came with a press fit bottom bracket. All of the resources I can find for the installation of these includes information about how to remove the old bottom bracket, but I don't need to do that.

What steps do I need to take, and which tools will I need, to install a press fit bottom bracket in a new frame?


texts: The treads on my road bike's 28C tires are almost completely gone—they only persist along the shoulders of the tire.  Do the treads matter?  What is a good indicator of when the tire as a whole needs to be replaced?


texts:
Looking for recommend. Tire pressure for a 26in MTN bike. Im around 185lbs.

I am fixing my bike up, and I want to make sure not to over inflate as I do not want to blow a tire.


texts: Chainring bolt stuck in 105 FC 5800 chainring

texts:
See my update at the bottom of the question
When installing my 4 bolt Shimano 105 FC 5800 chainrings on a modified FSA Gossammer Crank (TEAM ZWATT ZPIDER)  I first test fitted the chainrings with some chainring bolts I thought were compatible (they fit just fine into the threads, but theyre a little bit too short in hindsight).
I need to mention that the chainring bolts thread into the outer chainring directly.
I then put the chainrings on and screwed the chainring bolts into the chainring, not very tight but "hand tight".
The bolts were left there over night and aftering the correct ones this morning, I cannot get the bolts out.
I stripped two bolts trying to get them out but they just wouldnt budge, so now I'm left with a crank with two stripped bolts.
Now: the chainrings are somewhat disposable (I can order new ones but) but the crank is not, so I played with the thought of just sanding/drilling the chainrings out of the crank and this time mount correct parts. But do I have any other options at this point ?

Update:
I have sanded down the securing part of the chainring bolt using a dremel, at the cost of scratching and ruining the inner chainring.
Since the bolts were not per se stuck but have rather dug themselves into the inner chainring they sat quite loose in the outer chainring and could be undone by hand.
But in case they were stuck I believe the protruding part of the screw can be grabbed with a pair of pliers and be used to remove the rest of the screw from the outer chainring.
The cost of the whole operation was one set of chainring bolts and the inner chainring.


texts: Why did both of my inner tubes blow out on a new bike I've only put 4 hours on?

texts: I bought a new Diamondback Trace hybrid bike about a month ago. Rode it twice for about an hour a piece and the last time for about two hours. I had no problems any of the times and inflated the tires to about 70psi each time, well within the range specified. A week after the last ride I loaded my bike into the back of my Honda CRV. I didn't check the pressures at that time but they were obviously not flat. I ended up leaving the bike in the Honda for 4 or 5 days before finally unloading it. It became immediately apparent that both tires were completely flat. I took a look at one of the inner tubes and there was a four inch split at the seam that runs the full side of the tube. it was about 90-95 degrees on the days it was in the car and considerably hotter inside the car I would assume. based on the fact that the tires were aired up when put in the car and completely flat when I pulled it out days later I kinda assume it had to do with the heat. I'm just curious if other people have had this happen to them or if it might be something else I haven't considered. id appreciate any insight you have to offer


texts:
I have a 1983 Bianchi Bici 4, which I long ago converted into my errand bike, and the only one I'll lock up anywhere.
It's got 32C tires on it right now, but they only just barely fit in the frame with a bit of coaxing. The chain stays are about 3/16 away from the sidewalls, so I'm ok if the wheel is true. The problem is that the top of the tread is incredibly close to the bottom of the brake, as well as the clamp on the changer. Too close, in fact.

So, are there any 32C tires that will result in a slightly smaller overall wheel diameter when inflated? Montreal roads are notoriously bad, and I'd still like to use the fattest tires possible.

The bike was originally equipped with 23s, so clearances are very tight everywhere.

Thanks.


texts:
I'm out looking for a new full suspension XC bike. I've had an Epic 3-4 years ago. I've had a little break until now. Normally I would choose a size XL any day, but I've seen some pro's sizing down. The thing is, it's really hard to find the bikes I want in size XL. I can find some nice S-Works in size large used though. They rarely go on sale in XL.

I'm 197 cm tall and weigh 80 kg.

My question is, is it possible to modify with different stem, saddle position, and height on the seat post, to make it right on a size large?


texts: How do you know if you can trust your LBS?

texts:
I've visited a lot of bike shops in my time.

There have been great ones, and scary ones. One thing I've noticed is that they all seem to have the best intentions. I've never had one deliberately rip me off, or damage my bike because they didn't care.

I have had shops be flat out wrong about things they still swear are true.

So, the question is, if you're new to the area, when you go to a shop for the first time, how do you decide if they are a good shop and you can trust them with your bike and safety and your wallet?


texts: Looking for a waterproof electrical bicycle, is there such thing as ip68 for electrical bicycle?

texts:
I'm currently trying to find a bicycle brand that produces electrical bicycle with ip68/ip67 waterproof.
Currently I could find any, google is not helping with my search and when I find something there is no information about to what degree the bicycle is waterproof.
So my question to the community, is if there exists electrical bicycles with a good waterproof protection that would allow me to commute to work in heavy rain conditions?
Best,


texts: I just bought a new bike and it has the nexus 7 internal hub. This is my first internal hub. I love to ride but admittedly don't know much about the mechanics of bikes. I'm 57 and mostly ride the bike path in Prov. Ri which has 4 very steep hills and then many miles of flat path of which I thought this would be a good choice given the flats and low maintenance. Admittedly it is slow going up the hills but thats ok with me.  I seem to be having a problem with the second gear, downshifting. It takes sometimes many rotations of the pedals to get it to change into 2nd. The bike shop adjusted the cables and made me aware of the yellow markers and how to adjust with the cable. Seemed to be better but it still doesn't shift gears right away.The yellow marks are spot on. I adjusted my riding style to give a 1/4 pedal backwards and it works well that way to get into 2nd gear. I'm stuck between is this normal or is it possibly a problem with the hub? it's brand new, put 60 miles on it. The cables are obviously new and I've read it usually a cable adjustment. Do I simply need to adjust my riding style and not expect it to engage instantly like the other gears do? With my derailer I changed gears constantly but am thinking I should adjust to methodically clicking one gear to the next and to just ride in 4th gear unless necessary to change. I dont shift under load. Sorry if this sounds a bit messy. Is it me or the bike or both?


texts:
I just recently bought a new crankset that included the bottom bracket, a english threaded 68 mm bb. I installed the crankset and for some reason its stiff, it moves but doesn't spin at all, all it does is simply move. Do you think maybe that i need to take apart the bb and grease it up less? The crankset came already greased up but i think maybe a bit too much.

Thanks in advance
Mark Harrington


texts:
I was just out riding my bike. Its nothing fancy, just a €300 single-speed with with a flip-flop hub. I usually ride the freewheel side. Today it made some weird noises and decided to lock up / be a fixed gear and threw me off the bike.

So now the freewheel sprocket is behaving like a fixed gear. Is the sprocket completely broken or is there any way to fix it?


texts: Bike Assembly - What all needs lubrication?

texts:
I'm in the middle of a frame swap for my road bike. As I'm putting the bike back together, I've been wondering what all needs lubrication? Is there a comprehensive list somewhere that explains what parts need it? My list so far:

Both Bottom Bracket Cap's Threads
Pedal threads
Chain
Cable Housings


texts: Rear wheel not centred, presses against one of the brake pads (Rohloff hub, Magura rim brakes)

texts:
Upon replacing my rear brake pads, I noticed that my rear wheel is not properly centered.
The consequence is that the wheel is pressed against one of the brake pads, as can be seen in the pictures below.
I have a Rohloff hub where I can pull the dropout+wheel back in order to tighten the chain, but I don't know how to center the wheel horizontally.
In the final photograph (number 4) I have marked with A and B the dropout.
Normally, I put in the wheel by turning the bicycle upside down and then let the wheel into the dropout, going "all the way".
But If i do so, it results in the rim being pushed against the brake asymmetrically.
If I slightly raise at A and then close the quick release lever, the wheel is free from the brake, but it is not very stable, I think it's not the normal situation.

The wheel appears centered if I test the distance to the axle when putting it on the floor:

Dropout looks like this:

My question: how do I keep the rear wheel centered in the axle and straight for my bicycle (Rohloff hub with longitudinally movable dropout, Magura HS33 rim brakes)?

Edit:

It appears the wheel is straight, but it was not centered. I have those pads on both sides, and one side was pulled back much more than the other. I determine this based on the length of the visible part of the thread. I fixed it now, but I think the reason it keeps going bad regularly is because one of the screws is missing:

See the void in the second picture...

I remember that I unsuccessfully hunted for such a screw, but then concluded that it's not essential and continued cycling. But I can't anywhere in this area find a screw with an inbus-head and the right diameter. I used a screw with another head, but couldn't tighten it very well and — as I found out now — it fell out again...


texts: Help selecting between wire/folding tires

texts:
I’m hoping someone can help me decide whether to go with the wire bead type or foldable Kevlar.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

The bike is an old Fuji that originally came with 700x19c tires.

I’m not an avid biker just riding around on bike paths mostly on weekends. Maybe ride about 20 miles a weekend, but since I’m in the market for new tires I’m looking to purchase wisely. Thanks


texts: Cycle touring. First chain failure. Thoughts on cause?

texts: Was pedalling up steep hill on gravel road. No gear change. Just seemed to go mid push. Was very steep and out of saddle....had to push the remainder of way!


texts: Hard and noisy Shimano ST-EF29 front shifter with brake lever

texts:
I bought brand new Shimano ST-EF29 (3x8 Speed) Shifter + Brake Lever (both left and right) for my MTB which I installed some 3 months ago. But it is very noisy (especially when shifting from 3rd to 2nd chainring on the left shifter).

It changes super smooth and beautifully quiet from 1st to 2nd speed (chainring), a litle bit harder from 2nd to 3rd speed (chainring) but still satisfactory. The chain is not touching the front derailleur cage at 1x1 Speed and also not touching it at 3x8 speed).

But the noise is quite loud and annoying when shifting backwards from 3rd to 2nd and then from 2nd to 1st speed (chainring).

I noticed a small screw with the spring on the bottom side of the shifter and checked Shimano Tech website. It is called Reach Adjusting Screw and Spring (see photo). But it seems this screw is for brake lever adjustment so I didn't touch it at all.

Is there a way to fix this? Is there a screw on the shifter/brake lever that needs to be adjusted? The cable tension seems right when changing from 1st to 2nd speed but when changing from 2nd speed to 3rd speed it is a bit hard. The thing is that when shifter is in 1st speed (smallest chainring) the cable is completely loose) so I am not sure if loosening a cable tension (at front derailleur) furthermore would cause shifting problems.

The right shifter (Speeds 1x8) is working perfectly.

I have no clue how to solve this. At first I thought it's because the shifter is new so it will become better/quieter with the time but it is 3 months already and the noise is the same.


texts: Electric bike rear wheel spokes breaking

texts:
I have an electric bike with a 500w rear hub. The spokes have broken twice in the last month on the hub end of the spokes.The spokes are bent at the hub end and threaded. This is where they break.

As the bike is under warranty it went back to the supplier for repair and was returned to me with the same type of spokes. Should spokes be made from rod that is threaded at the hub end as it must surely weaken them when bent on the thread. The supplier says it's the first time this has happened but as I've only done 45 km on it since new I don't think that is a good enough answer.
What could be the reason for the problem?


texts: Shimano 105 5800 mech compatibilty with 5700 shifters

texts: I have purchased a Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed Cassette 11-32, 116 link chain (CN- HG600-11) and longer-caged 'GS' rear derailleur (RD-5800-GS) to replace my original 105 10 speed 5700 series mech. Can I still use my original 105 5700 shifter?


texts: I've used this Schwalbe G-One Speed tire for a long while with no problems. I got 2 punctures in the last 2 weeks though. First was because of a 2 mm thorn, second one was of unidentified cause. While looking carefully I noticed that tread is worn out but not to the point of being unusable. I switched to another tire meanwhile but I'm wondering as a general rule, do people notice an increased frequency of punctures with tread wear?


texts:
I've just finished my first 'big' bicycle related project in order to start and complete a small challenge of at least 100 days of riding a bike in 2017 :)

This project consisted of completely disassembling full suspension (aluminum) mountain bike to the last bolt, replacing bearings, switching from press fit bottom bracket to BSA/Hollowtech (adapter which is pressed into frame), upgrading entire groupset to higher end Shimano components, messing with hydraulic brakes (shortening hoses, bleeding), installing new chain, etc.

I know this is probably ordinary thing for someone who is  familiar with bikes and do this professionally, but this was my first time doing this and I'm a little concerned about safety (because I'm complete noob :) (To be specific, my biggest concerns are drivetrain, bottom bracket, chain length... as well as all other parts; except shocks for which I wasn't able to find service kits but they seem to be in good working order.) So far I've tested bike on a bike rack, I rode it in front of  garage and everything seems to be working properly.

However, since I don't want to crash and hurt myself I would like to know if there is reliable way to test what I've done... something like a checklist/guidelines for assembling and testing new bike?


texts:
I replaced a broken shimano BB-UN26 bottom bracket yesterday. After only a 25k ride the crankset has some play and has started to wiggle a bit. It looks as though the bottom bracket is moving with the crankset.

Last time I replaced the BB it lasted 8 months. Crankset was replaced at the same time.
Is it a defective BB, did I do something wrong, or do I have a bigger problem?


texts: Determining if there is too much chain tension on 1x setup with XT clutch derailleur

texts:
I've outfitted my 2016 Giant TCX with a 1x 42t in the front and 11-40 in the rear. I'm finding that with the clutch engaged shifting into the 40t in the back is "harder" and it feels like there is resistance when I pedal the bike in the work stand.
The issue goes away if I disable the clutch. Tuning the clutch down slightly has helped with the shifting but my question is do I have too much tension and is my chain too short?
I followed these instructions and have posted an image below for reference the chain is cut to 57 links based on Park Tools equation and measurements based on this manual.
Thanks!


texts:
Suppose want to park my bike outdoors all the time. Conventional wisdom is that you should park a bike under cover, but suppose that's not an option. What should you do?

Maybe sealed cartridge bearings would be better than cone-and-cup?

Maybe belt- or shaft-drive, or at least a full chain guard to keep rain off the chain?

Maybe a treatment to protect the tire rubber?


texts: Navigating to a saved location on a Garmin Edge 530 results in a ludicrous circuitous route

texts:
Apologies if this isn't directly relevant to cycling, although it does involve a cycling product.
While in Dyserth, Wales I decided to see how my Edge 530 would navigate me home. This is the route it took me on: https://www.strava.com/activities/3812895019 (I've cropped the end for privacy). That is 11km longer and involves twice as much climbing as what Google Maps suggests: https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/53.3020881,-3.4178364/53.2006867,-3.2228244/@53.2517539,-3.3319621,12.38z/data=!4m2!4m1!3e1.
I did have popularity routing turned on in the settings and the avoidance settings were set to avoid toll roads (not applicable), unpaved roads (not applicable, unless the map data is bad), ferries (not applicable) and narrow trails (possibly applicable but some of the roads I was directed on are narrower than the more direct route). Major highways were not set to be avoided. The calculation method was set to minimise time.
However, playing around with these settings and setting it to navigate back there from home still seems to suggest the same route, no matter what permutation of avoidance / popularity settings I have (apart from not avoiding unpaved routes, but then it tries to go up a path which is only navigable on MTB and even then is not legal). I've also tried switching between the minimise distance, minimise time and minimise ascent routing settings to no avail.
Am I missing something here? If it's going to suggest routes like that it seems like a useless function.
Update Garmin support is investigating this.
Another update Just tried on another location. Navigating to the Ponderosa Cafe on the A542 / Horseshoe pass with popularity routing turned off and on the different minimise settings:

Minimise ascent: - 579m of ascent, 32.2km distance, 2hr15
Minimise distance: - 617m of ascent, 30.9km distance, 2hr21 and tries to take me up bloody Moel Arthur again!
Minimise time: 553m of ascent, 27.7km, 2hr6

Interestingly, the minimise time setting actually minimises the ascent and distance as well. But again, none are close to the default Google route which is 23.5km, 356m ascent and 1hr37.
One other thing that is interesting / stupid is that I was actually at that cafe before and thought I'd see how it would direct me home on the minimise ascent setting (but didn't follow it). It tried doing the Moel Arthur route (minimise distance route above, but in reverse).


texts: Child bike seat usage when approaching max weight

texts:
I've been reviewing some of the options for commuting your kid around (bike seat, trailers, mid tails, long tails, etc) and am having a hard time determining the best option.   My daughter is 45lbs and is at or approaching the limit of most bike seats.   Is the easy option of a bike seat the way to go?  Or will commuting a kid at the max weight of a seat be too cumbersome (and short term)?   Are the other options a better choice here?

Note I don't currently own a bike so all choices will involve a purchase of some kind...


texts: Does the glue in tyre repair kits expire?

texts:
I have a tyre repair kit that I bought ~4 years ago. I never used it. In fact, I never used such a kit in my life.

Does the glue expire after some time, or is it good indefinitely? The tube is still sealed, but I am worried that should I need to use it, I might find that the glue has already set.


texts: How do I adjust V-brakes as the pads wear?

texts:
I have V-brakes and when the pads wear down, the brake needs adjustment.
Adjusting by undoing and tightening the cable is difficult, is there an easier way to adjust V-brakes to compensate for pad wear?


texts: Type of cycle for losing weight and staying fit for a beginner

texts:
Over a year ago I was diagnosed with a collapsed arch in my left foot and despite trying many times I have not been able to get back on the treadmill. I have been thinking of getting a bicycle to start losing the weight that I have put on. I currently weight 240 lbs. I have a couple of questions:

Should I get a hybrid bike or a mountain bike or a road bike? I have read conflicting views on what is better for weight loss and general fitness.
Should I buy a geared or a non-geared bicycle?

I am not looking to become an expert rider and would probably only ride 3-5 times a week. I just need something that will get me a bit of fresh air and help me loose a bit of fat.


texts: How to remove a Joytech freehub (5mm allen key version)

texts:
I've been trying to remove broken my joytech freehub (from an 11 speed felt b16) for a frustratingly long time.  The model in question takes two 5mm allen keys, and is not the same as the seemingly more common one, which takes an 11mm allen key to remove, like these  here and here

I have successfully removed what look to be seals from each side, but I am now stuck with two holes which receive a 5mm allen key, but that will not budge, to the point i'm concerned that maybe they're reverse threaded and don't want to apply too much force.

Here are two pictures of the drive side:

and the back side:

As i say, both sides take 5mm allen keys. Can anyone shed any light on how to remove this type of hub?


texts:
I was given a Raleigh Venture comfort bike as a gift a few months ago, and took to riding very well. I am overweight, but dropping quickly. I started at 275 and sit around 250 now after two months of regular riding and a changed diet. I'm quite certain I've outgrown this bike. I struggle to maintain a good speed, usually managing just 11 or 12 mph, and the bike dealer I've been talking to says upgrading will be a tremendous difference, between better tires, lighter frame and a lower riding position.

The speed is frustrating, as this past weekend I took a 30 mile trip, which took over 2 1/2 hours. I stick to the roads, and in S. Florida they are in pretty good shape. So it would appear to me that a road bike is the way to go, but I'm still overweight, and not overly young anymore (37), so I worry maybe my back will hurt?

As a frame of reference, a dealer recommended the Trek FX series as being a little lower than a normal hybrid bike, and I'm looking specifically at the 7.3 FX. With my budget, if I went road bike, it'd half to be the 1.1 from Trek.

My main question is road versus hybrid, but I'm also certainly open to manufacturer suggestions. I am very new, and not about to customize anything, so it has to be a bike that I can buy, not a bike I buy and then change a bunch of stuff. That's not me (yet).


texts:
I’ve spotted this crack on my carbon fork, only on the left side. The crack is exactly at the joint of aluminum dropout and carbon body of the fork. My bike is a 2010 Trek Madone Project One (OCLV carbon) and the fork is Bontrager RXL. Yesterday I’ve sent an enquiry to Trek via my bike shop, waiting for their response.

I am curious if there is anybody who experienced anything similar? Thanks!


texts: Rider weight limits regarding a bicycle purchase

texts: So I’m a 5’9 little over 400lbs, and I’m changing my life style. I’m eating better and swimming for exercise. Exercise is hard so I want to start riding a bike also. I’m only going to be riding on flat land, no curbs or hills. I’m looking at a Mongoose Dolomite fat tire. It’s about 300$ which is where I’d like to be price range, but the manufacturer weight limit is 350. Will it support me? I looked into Zike and those bikes are 2500-5000$. I’m not riding for sport or doing marathons. Just looking to ride 3-4 miles every few days on flat ground. Please any info would help, even spending 300 on this mongoose will be a waste if I can’t use it the way I need to or it breaks.


texts:
I like to change my tires with the Continental 4000S II 28mm width tires.
Do I need new tubes for the wider tires or can I use my old ones from my 23mm tires?


texts: smaller wheels on big bike to reduce height

texts:
I have a SEKAI sprint 1000 bike which is a tiny bit big for me as I have problems reaching with my feet to the ground. The existing seat is already down to the lowest level so can't reduce the height any further.
What I am thinking is to change the wheel to a smaller size. The current size is 27 1/4" (rim). Can I install smaller wheel on this bike without having replace virtually everything?

If there is a seat available which has slightly lower seat frame so that if I replace the seat then it goes a bit lower (hope this makes sense?)


texts:
I recently found a second-hand bike that looks interesting, but the brand is KCP, and even with a lot of search, I'm not able to find any result about it.

You can find below a picture and a link to the KCP 26" Chicago mountain bike

What is "KCP"? Should I trust this supposed "brand"? Do you recommand me not to buy this and look into well-known or better known brands?


texts: Shimano Ultegra chaninrings on Truvativ Elita Tandem crank

texts:
I'm attempting to replace the chainrings on my Cannondale Road tandem. The crankset is a Truvativ Elita Tandem (52-39 10 speed big/middle ring). The new rings are Shimano 6603 52-39 rings.

I swapped out the rings without issue. I've also replaced the cassette and drive chain.

The chain runs fine in the big ring.

The problem shows up with the chain on the middle ring and on the three smallest cogs of the cassette. In those gears, the chain skips frequently. It appears to try to jump up to the big ring, then falls back down, a couple of teeth back on the middle ring. It is skipping more than once per chain cycle, which I think rules out a problem with the chain.

Watching the chain closely it appears what is happening is that the chain is catching on the little shifting helper nubs on the inside of the big chainring.

It is not the derailleur causing the chain to shift. I've made sure the derailleur is not touching the chain. The same thing also happens on the bottom of the chainring if I backpedal.

Is there any reasons these rings would be a problem on this crankset? Any other things to try?


texts: 'Micro adjust' saddle clamp not allowing fine enough adjustment (on SP12 suspension seatpost)

texts:
I have an Suntour SP12 seatpost, and the saddle is held on by two clamps on either side.  The clamps are splined, but these splines only allow adjustment of around 6-8 degrees which is far too much for me to find a comfortable position.

Red circle =  side of seat post (with outwards facing splines)
Blue circle =  inner side of clamp (with inwards facing splines)
Green circle = outer side of clamp

The outer side of clamp is not splined, it stays in position by wrapping around the saddle rail in combination with the inner clamp.  Because this isn't perfectly machined, there is some play that can be used to add maybe 1-2 degrees of adjustment (by putting weight on the rear or nose of the saddle while tightening).  However, this still leaves 2-4 degrees of adjustment unavailable (and it feels a bit janky).

I tried swapping the inner clamps, in the hope that the splines were in slightly different positions, but it didn't help.  I have tried this morning to use a rubber washer between the seat post side and the inner clamp, but it wasn't strong enough.  However, I only used a piece of an old silicone phone case, and about 24nm of torque because I was worried of breaking something.  Maybe this could work with a proper rubber washer?  But I doubt it

Any ideas?  I don't mind making some kind of mount from a bit of metal bent around and screwed into the sides, but I don't know to spline it to make it stay in position.  Or maybe some old saddle rails, and a mount screwed onto those?

The suspension makes a lot of difference to me, so I would like to find a way to make this seatpost work.  Although I suppose I could go for the thudbuster instead - it's just quite expensive.


texts:
Ever since I got my bike (Surly Long Haul Trucker), it has been prone to shifting on its own.  This is almost guaranteed to happen when I stand up on the pedals, and happens regularly when sitting as well.  I have the feeling that this is a dangerous condition.

It seems from reading about the problem that it is due to the cable catching somewhere and creating a clutch effect.  (read about it here)
There does not seem to be a way to adjust the friction of the shift lever.
I've tried:

greasing the cable guide under the bottom bracket (no effect)
backing off the tension of the cable with the tension knob on the cable casing (no effect)

Can anyone relate how they overcame this?  My next step is to further loosen the cable by adjusting the connection to the derailleur?


texts: In the process of replacing my gear cassette on my Trek 820 bike I took apart my rear wheel hub and bearings and I have no clue how the parts are supposed to go back together.


texts:
I have the following tire its a 700x35c cyclocross tyre. I am looking to use this bike on the road for a while.

What size of road tire would fit this?

Thanks


texts: Crankarm hitting frame - BB-R60 with GRX 1x11 Hybrid - Gravel conversion

texts:
Hope someone can help
I'm converting a hybrid frame to a gravel/adventure bike and am using the GRX 1x11 rx600 cranks. I've got myself a BBR60 Ultegra bottom bracket but the left-hand (non-drive side) crank arm hits my bike frame as it rotates. The amount it clips it by is 1 or 2 mm at most, so very annoying!
Question is can you get spacers for this bottom bracket, or would it be worth returning it and getting another one?
Thanks


texts: Can I use a 3x10 or 3x9 speed (front) chainring in a 3x8 speed drive?

texts: I'm having a hard time finding a new 42T chainring to replace the old one in my 3x8 speed drive, and the only option seems to be to go with a 42T chainring designated for 3x10 speed setups. Anybody knows if it would work and how well? Would it be better to use a 44T chainring intended for 3x9 drives?


texts: Sandals in the winter? Other winter footwear options?

texts: I used Shimano cycling sandals during the summer months here in the Chicago, Illinois area.  I'm wondering if I can use these during the cold winter months also or if different shoes are required.  In favor of continuing to use the sandals, I could add SealSkinz and/or wool sock layers as the sandals are expandable.  Other than looking strange in the winter, are there problems with doing this?  What other winter cycling footwear should be considered?


texts: Will Shimano Acera 8 speed derailleur work on 6 speed freewheel?

texts: I want to get a higher quality rear derailleur from the Tourney which I have right now(it broke). I want a Shimano Acera RD-M360-SGS. The problem is that its 8 speed. Will it work on my 6 speed freewheel?


texts:
I have 2 bikes (mountain and road) sometimes I use them in races (mostly MTB) so I don't want to have any fixed accessory on them. I'm looking for a child seat (or rack where a seat can be mounted) that goes mounted to the seat-post so that I can easily replace the seat and post and mount the seat. I've seen some mechanisms that go into the frame. I thought they could also be mounted in the seat post but I'm afraid it's not a very good idea as the seat and baby weight would be too high and compromise stability and safety when riding. Does anybody have any idea? I'm afraid I'll have to get another bike for that purpose :-P.

I have also though of bike trolleys but they may be too big, expensive and too sluggish.


texts:
I have a [cheap and old] Falcon Indexing System (rear derailleur). There seems to be not enough tension on the B-knuckle pivot point so the cage runs into the large cogs. There is no B-knuckle adjustment.

Questions: Can that spring go bad with time? Is there another way to adjust the tension I might be missing? Can I just replace the spring or am I better off replacing the whole derailleur?


texts: When or how often should I replace my bike helmet?

texts:
I’ve fallen a couple times, but no serious damage is visible on the helmet except for a couple divots here and there.

Should I consistently be replacing my helmet after a certain amount of time?  After every relatively serious fall?


texts: Are Hövding helmets safer than regular helmets?

texts: I would like to know if these very expensive helmets (about 500€) are actually better than regular ones. I'm sceptical about the claim that they are three times safer: if they are so much safer, why do they not seem to be being used by professionals? I cannot find any serious studies supporting these claims, so am wondering whether they are in fact substantiated.


texts: Can anyone help me identify this bicycle frame?

texts:
I recently bought this frame from a gentleman who bought a closed bike shop and builds and sells bikes from his 10 or more sheds full of parts.  He teaches his church youth kids to build them as a way of staying out of trouble, I love that.  I acquired 90% of the parts I would need to put a bike together.  He was 100% sure this frame is a Cannondale frame (maybe 1987), but there is no serial number or marks at all that we can see. The fork reads Tange TF-R.

I need help from the experts.  Thank you.


texts:
I bought this new pump, but i think I made a mistake.

I need it for my road bikes, with presta valves. I don't understand how I connect the pump to the presta.

Is it even possible?  do I need an adapter?

http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/PocketShockDXG


texts: difficulty in shifting to lower gear on shimano (6 speed rear gear)

texts:
I am new to using a bicycle with multiple speeds. I got this new bicycle 4 days back with Shimano 6 speed rear gears. I don't know much else about the components.

There is no issue when I move to higher gear (2 to 3 , 3 to 4 and so on.)

But I face issue when I try to shift gears from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 etc. The chain does not shift and it makes a sound.

As a trick to get it to shift into the desired gear, I shift to next higher gear when the chain makes sound and then get back to desired gear. e.g. if I am riding in 5th gear and I want to shift to 4th I shift to 3rd for a moment and get back to 4th and then all's well with no more sound from chain. But I am afraid this trick may not be good and that I may be doing something wrong.

So I request guys to suggest me proper way to shift to lower gears.

I tried to find videos on youtube but they didn't help much. The videos show shifting should not be done while pedaling under pressure, so I followed this but shifting was still not smooth.


texts: How can many people move a car -trailer with bicycles?

texts:
I need to move a trailer like this one here but with 4 wheels (two on both sides). I have no access to cars. The distance is about 100km or more, and I am a bit unsure how I am going to move it:

where I should move it on pedestrian way or on car road?
How should I do it?
I am ready to buy any bike to move this type of things so some recommendations for this type of cargo moving with bike? Diamond-framed may not be the best option. I have some friends on the journey so I have considered to hack a dandem or tri-bicycle or weld old touring bikes together to form one larger X-cycle.
I have noticed that my bicycle brakes are not really enough to move larger cargos, any ideas how to upgrade brakes in bike or some hack to the trailer? Or how many bicycles would be enough to stop this at least 1.3Mg beast?
I think we are going to move during night anyway but we may need to use some car roads - what kind precautions should I do with the trailer besides installing a lot of blinking lights and reflectors?


texts: I’m trying to figure out the model of these Ritchey pedals from circa 1998. My ultimate goal is to figure out if the bearings can be replaced.


texts: What features of a mountain bike's geometry gives it different characteristics?

texts: When you see descriptions of mountain bikes they are usually described as XC, trail, enduro etc. and have different geometries based on what sort of category they fall into. What are the defining characteristics of the bikes and their geometries for the different categories of riding? What makes a trail bike a trail bike and not an XC bike for instance?


texts: Dual electric/pedal bikes to solve pedalling effort issues

texts:
I prefer the good old pedal bike. For obvious reasons, I cannot get to the office sweating, and I have no time to shower before I get into the office.
I have no issues biking uphill and steep road segments. However, the electric bike has changed all of that. In addition, the bike seat had to be lowered to suit my height, and pedalling when the knees are bent too much is not a great idea.

Details of the problem: My bike has a rear-wheel built-in electric motor. It cannot be connected or disconnected. I can either turn the system on or off. However, that does not solve the problem. In my experience, pedalling with an electric bike is much harder than with a regular bike. I can pedal a bike uphill with a reasonable speed. However, an electric bike is even hard to start pedalling from zero, and even maintaining the same speed as the motor is not longer than a minute. After some time, I had to walk and pull the bike. My bike has a gearbox, but that means I can walk faster than pedalling. In comparison, I can achieve a slightly higher speed with a regular bike, so fitness is not the issue.

What I tried to do: I tried to check the gears for too much friction, but the wheel turns fine and slows down reasonably when I stop pedalling/throttling. I tried to see if my extra effort can be used to charge back the battery, but it took much effort for too long, and I think it didn't work because the throttle was off. In addition, I don't know if it makes much difference because the battery takes few hours to charge.

Any solutions?

Would I use a throttle to allow charging back by pedalling or going downhill? (Regenerative braking, not perpetual motion machine).
replacing the battery with a capacitor to improve efficiency of regenerative braking? The idea is to do biking sport, but storing excess energy for commuting to the office without pedalling and sweating.
Any e-bikes with an outboard engine which can be engaged/disengaged to the wheel?


texts: Help identifying make of steel elevated chain stay mountain bike frame

texts:
Could anyone tell me what is the make or model of this bike there are no visible numbers or name except for this sticker of the maker of the seat tube.

I appreciate all the help. you guys know your stuff.


texts: Ebike going up a hill controller and motor gets hot causing a circuit break

texts:
Motor: satellite down gearing, 350 watts, rated @36 volts.
Pack: 40.2 volt 10 series by 7 parallel.
Lately the last 3 times I go up steep hill the battery wires, controller, and motor are hot to the touch, not burning but very warm and a heat sensor kills the power. As I sit half way up a hill waiting for it to cool off I have to disconnect the battery for it to reset. I always assist the uphill climb by pedaling as much as I can on seat not standing. I often check for the correct tire pressure. And my ebike is 100% throttle controlled but it's not easy modulating a throttle when you're pedaling vigorously.
This has only been occurring since I fixed my battery pack by replacing a defective parallel row 18650 batteries in my 70 battery pack. Since I fixed the pack my ebike has never been so torquey. I get the same top speed but it really throws you back when you floor it from zero like never before. The main reason I got this ebike was mainly due to living at the top of a hill.
I can't figure out what would be the best solution to fix this problem.
Any ideas?


texts:
Somewhere from the non-drive side of the drivetrain is coming loud squeak when I pedal hard.

The story is long. First I threaded the BB-ES25 incorrectly, and had to spend half an hour with a file to remove the 2 outermost threads (Conclusion: Never torque anything into aluminum with a wrench. Torque it by hand, then tighten by wrench.)

Then I installed my octalink crankarms, but lost the washer between the non-drive side fixing bolt and the crank arm.

After a couple of weeks, the BB lockring came loose, getting stuck against the crankarm and forcing me to carry the bike home.

After tightening it a lot*, another week passed and my non-drive side crankarm fell off. I tightened it a lot after that.

Recently I purchased a torque wrench and re-tightened everything. The BB lcokring to 70Nm and the crankarm fixing bolts to 50Nm.

There is still squeaking, and I guess it is not coming from the left pedal. What could be wrong now?

Conclusion:

After fixing the torque values, a week passed and now the creaking is just a memory.


texts: I am looking to buy a bicycle to go from university to home everyday( about 20 KM per day), but I saw the price of bicycles are around $5000-$10000! I know I can buy many great motorcycles within this range of price and I am just wondering why is a bicycle with very very simpler frame and architecture and technology and material, etc. has same price as very good motorcycles?


texts: answers for why the bike wobbles back and forth when standing on the pedals and working it

texts:
So I read all these answers about the bike moving underneath the rider back and forth when standing on the pedals.  So how much is actually effective and how much is for "show" (looks cool)  I have a friend that ocassionally uses my bike and throws it violently back and forth when getting on the pedals.  I don't think he is strong enough to really radically make the bike do this but after the rides the back wheel becomes untrue and the brakes rub because the wheel is that much out of line.   I have to take it for the wheel to be trued.  What advice should I give him about properly riding on the pedals so that I don't have to have the wheel trued everytime?
I am fairly powerful on the pedals but I don't have that much movement.


texts:
I regularly race Duathlons and Triathlons. When I am off the bike and running my calves are like rocks for the first mile. I have been told to try to flatten by foot and not "Point" my toes down.

I use Speedplay pedals.
I have regular Specialized Road shoes (Stiff soles)
I ride a road bike (Gary Fisher Cronus)

My question: Should I always try to pedal flat and without my toe pointed down?


texts:
About three months ago I bought a second hand bike for £70; to be honest it is reasonably good. Current setup for gears is a 2 x 18 (38-48 front, 13-28 rear).

As far as I can tell it's not a branded Shimano system, just some generic Shimano 8 speed (the shifters say ST-2200 and the RD looks like the RD-2200).

I want to upgrade the bike as I keep having to re-index the RD, and I think it's just worn and sluggish. Also I want a cassette with a larger low gear (maybe a 30) as I have a big hill by my house and I struggle to get up it.

I was thinking as Wiggle has a sale I would upgrade to Shimano CS-HG41 8-Speed Cassette 11-30T and Shimano Sora R3000 9 Speed Rear Mech. I was thinking of possibly changing the 38 chainring to a 36 or even a 34.

I ride 8miles to work and back 4 times a week (64miles a week) with a backpack for food and clothes, and as I said the bike isn't too bad, I just want the hills to be a bit easier.

Would the above new setup be ok, or is there a better way of me achieving this?

I have added a link to a bike calculator for my hopeful setup.

http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=38,48&RZ=13,14,16,19,20,22,24,28&UF=2150&TF=80&SL=2.5&UN=MPH&DV=teeth&GR2=DERS&KB2=36,48&RZ2=11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30&UF2=2150

Thanks for any responses.

I had a look and the smallest cog does have another set of holes about 65mm in diamater. Also the holes on the current smalles chainring are 125mm.


texts: Can cars legally drive in the bike lane down the street?

texts: Every day on my way to school there is a long street with a bike lane and two car lanes on each side. But when the street is jammed I have cars going really fast behind me and honking because I'm not going 45 miles an hour like their car is. Can they really do this? I mean it's the BIKE lane. It's one thing to be pulling out of a parking spot and crossing the bike lane but to be driving on it in general shouldn't be right. I live in Los Angeles, CA.


texts: shimano xc30 mtb spd shoes for CycloCross?

texts: I am planning on attempting my first cyclocross race on the cheap and cant decide on what shoes. As it will be very muddy and rainy (like most British weather) I want to make sure I get the shoes with the right level of grip. Will these Shimano xc30 mtb be enough with a pair of studs in the front?


texts: How exactly are pedals attached to crank arms?

texts:
Recently I tried to unscrew the left pedal of a bicycle by turning it counter-clockwise with a spanner lengthened with a piece of pipe. The net result is the spanner broke apart and the pedal is still there.

This makes me wonder.

Is that just threaded joint or is there something else besides threading? Is the threading left-handed or right handed? Do I need anything else except what I would normally use to unscrew a threaded joint?


texts: key broke and stuck in U-lock with bike locked

texts:
Luck would have it my key broke off when I was trying to unlock my bike. The lock is U shaped ABUS. I've read people had this before, however biggest problem is that bike is now stuck at the school, locked to a metal grid. Half of the key is inside the lock and there is no way to pull it out. Obviously I can't take it to locksmith and my moves are pretty limited due to position it's locked in. I don't care about the lock. I wish to free my bike without losing the front wheel. Any suggestions?

Edit: Issue solved, by smashing lock few times to dislodge it since key broke very close to open position.


texts: I am getting tired of my Mafac Racers on my old Peugeot UO-8 and am looking for a modern side pull style brake upgrade. Are there any brakes that are good conversions to replace Mafacs? Anything I should be aware of before I buy something?


texts: What is the biggest component difference between a cheap road bike and an expensive road bike?

texts: I am shopping around for road bikes now, and I wanted to know what components to look for. I am not talking about the frame, carbon or otherwise, I mean types of shifters, brakes, cranks, rims, etc.


texts: Rear axle sizing for wheel set, compatible with both 142mm thru axle and 135mm quick release?

texts:
Attempting to buy a new wheelset and I am getting a bit confused on whether the wheelset - or I guess more specifically the hub will fit my bike. I have a Salsa Journeyman Apex 1 and it has quick release dropouts.  The specs on Salsa's website say the rear spacing is 135mm. So I would need to select a wheel set suitable for QR x 135mm.
I am looking at this rear wheel which lists compatibility with 12mm thru x 142mm as well as QR x 135mm. However a lot of sites don't list the QR compatibility for this wheelset, like this one.
I will be getting the wheel with a SRAM XDR so final question would be, does a SRAM XDR 142mm thru fit a bike with 135mm QR? Do I need to get different end caps to fit a QR system if so or will it come with thru axle end caps and QR end caps?


texts: Does the front derailleur limit chain ring size?

texts:
Does the front derailleur have limits to which size chain rings can be used?

I have a groovy old 1988 Schwinn Prelude and for the most part it does just what I need. However there are some steep sections of excellent paths nearby that are a bit to much. Fitness is decidedly a factor ;)

I currently have a 2x6, I assume stock parts but I cannot be sure. Chain rings are 52-40 and cassette is 14-28. The aggressive old style. There aren't many options for changing the cassette, but I was thinking perhaps I could put a compact or even a gravel/mtb chain ring set on.

I use exclusively the 40t ring. I can count on one hand the number of times I've used the 52t. I mostly commute and go for leisure rides, so the racing set up is impractical. Can I simply switch the chain rings out for a 42-34 for example? Or will the front derailleur be unable to function properly?

The derailleur is mounted with a bolt on band so it is maybe possible to lower it on the seat tube slightly to accommodate the new rings.


texts:
Some (most?) manufacturers recommend running studded tires on pavement for the first miles to facilitate "seating".
As my commuting route touches little pavement but woods, I see little chance to do this "seating" for 50 km as e.g. Nokian recommends. With a Nokian Extreme, I was not able to see a difference in spike positioning before and after the 50 km seating process.

Hence, I am wondering:

What actually should we think is happening during the seating
process? Fact or fiction?
Why do the companies rely on the poor biker to do the spike seating
    process, why isn't this done by the manufacturer?
How important is this for tire performance? With a pair of Nokian
extreme, I'd guess it took me around 100 kms until I have had these tires
for 50 km on pavement. Over the last 3 years, I lost (and replaced)
not more than a handfull of studs on this pair of tires. With one of
Schwalbe's studded tires, I actually lost around 30 % of the studs
in the first 4 km ride (and returned the tire), with a pair of
Continental, it was somewhat better, but after 50 km of seating, I
still kept loosing spikes at a constant rate. Hence, with the
Nokian, I've got the impression that these were already working
before seating and little changed during seating, with all others,
I've found out that riding on pavement does nothing good to tire
quality.


texts: Remove lubricant from seat tube and seat post

texts:
I recently bought a second hand bike. It rides pretty well, the only nuisance I have is that the previous owner has spread some lubricant on the seat post. I am pretty sure of this because I see on the tube a greasy black material which goes all the way to where the tube goes into the frame.

So now when I ride it the saddle gets lower and lower, no matter how I tighten it (at a rate of about 2 cm/100 km).

So far I have tried to clean the post and inside if the seat tube with a paper towel, which became black as I expected.

This is a picture of the part after the cleaning

as you can see it there is already a spacer, and there is no quick release.

What is the best way to remove this lubricant?


texts: Changing my All City Mr. Pink to disc brakes

texts: Interested in changing to disc brakes on my bike. I hear they're a lot better, although I am rather new to this sport and this (Mr. Pink) is my first road bike. Any insight on the process of switching or any thoughts that I shouldn't switch the braking would be appreciated.


texts: Should I get a reflective jacket/coat, or more lighting and reflective strips for the bike?

texts:
What with daylight saving time ending and it now being pitch black by the time I finish work, I'm not exactly trusting of just a couple small lights on my bike being enough to make me visible to drivers. Seeing a couple cyclists around here wearing them got me thinking, would it be worth my while to get a reflective jacket? I did a bit of a hunt and found a place near here that sells them.

The general price I seem to find is $50 for an uninsulated one, $100+ for insulated. Neon-yellow with reflective stripes, same stuff construction workers would be wearing. Heck, some even have a spot for a name tag :-P

I'd likely get the uninsulated one, just so it can be used in a wider variety of weather, and I can layer clothing under it easier.

So my question is, would it be worth putting my money toward the jacket, or toward getting a new light and some reflective stripes for the bike itself?

EDIT: Re-reading this, I made a mistake in what I was saying. I have a couple lights, they're just not the brightest going.


texts: Doing commute and thinking about buying a back rack for my bike to put my backpack on.  Since the bag causes me to sweat.  Do people who have back racks on their bike find it useful for this purpose?


texts: Can I convert my v-brakes to cartridges?

texts:
I have a Hybrid that uses v-brakes:

The brake pad has an attached threaded post and to change the pads I have to change the whole unit.

Can I change the pad/post unit to a cartridge type used on road bikes?

Maybe not this specific one, but similar:

or is the adjustment done in a different way? I know the whole pad/post ones have domed washers for adjustment.


texts: Can an upright bicycle be modified to deal with deteriorating balance?

texts: I am a 70-year-old, 5'3" woman in good health---my knees are a little achy at times. I want to ride around the neighborhood and do errands. I haven't ridden my bike in a long time because I am feeling slightly less balanced these days. Can my bike be modified to accommodate my balance, or would I be better off switching to a different type of bicycle, like a recumbent? Any suggestions would be welcome.


texts: Alternatives to cycling shoes for touring with big/wide feet

texts:
There are loads of questions on here about cycling shoes for wide feet, but most of the links are years old and broken, and most of them are suggestion for cycling specific shoes. I've all but given up on using any sort of proper cycling shoes, and am seeking tried and true alternatives. I wear a US 13 (47-48 EU) on what one blogger generously described as "challenging" feet. Extra wide, flat feet with plantar fasciitis, Tailor's bunions, the start of a regular bunion, etc.
I've accepted my foot fate and ride on wide touring pedals with either power grips or oldschool metal cages. But I'm still in need of a stiffer shoe. On my first long-distance tour a few years ago I tried out several different insoles with my basic running shoes. I settled on a stiff insole designed for ski/snowboard boots. Recently getting back into riding after a long hiatus during grad school, the stiff insole still works alright for shorter rides, but I get toe numbness/neuropathy after about an hour. Longer ride times (3-5 hours) aggrivate my fasciitis and give me hot-spots galore. I'm thinking that there has to be something with a more rigid sole that might help me out.
I'm curious what solutions other riders with "challenging" feet have settled on. Is there a specific type of shoe (other than workboots) that is known for having rigid-ish soles? Don't have to be cycling specific, but if you've tried them out one longer rides, that's a big plus.


texts: What is the hand gesture for "I'm sorry"?

texts:
I usually signal "turn left" and "turn right" and "pass me by, take point". However, there is one more situation that happens to me often and I do not know a widely accepted gesture to convey my thoughts.

How do I express that "I am sorry." to a car driver near me (car driver == probably won't hear me, so a hand gesture is needed). As in "I cut you off, sorry man!".


texts: 10 speed rear derailleur only shifting 7 gears....losing my mind

texts:
OK, so I have a rough and ready road bike (Planet X London Road) that is not shifting right....

It is running:

Shimano Tiagra 4600 Shifters (3 x 10) but running it a 1x10 with one front chainring

Shimano Deore RD-M610 (RDM610SGSL) 10 Speed Derailleur

Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 speed rear cassette

It shifts through the first 7 gears without issue but uses all 10 clicks to get there.  It does not reach up to the last/top 3 gears (even though it will when I move the derailleur manually by hand).

I have tried with another Tiagra road shifter and it produced the same results.

I have set up the high/low limit screws correctly, tightened the cable multiple times and set the jockey wheel height correctly.  No difference.

I have connected a MTB 10 speed shimano thumb shifter and it goes through all 10 gears perfectly.

Any ideas?  It is driving me quite mad!


texts: Loosen the handbrake in mecanical disk-brake

texts:
One of the two handbrakes is too tight and I can't find the barrel adjusters (as in this video: Adjust bike brakes, although his bike has V-brakes not mechanical Disk-brakes like me)?

Should I adjust the cable brake on the caliper (see picture below) to make the hand-brake less tight (Disk brake adjustment)?


texts: Can you have too many in line barrel adjusters?

texts:
Just replacing the shifters on my bike. It had STI shifters and I'm putting thumb shifters on, the shifters have built in barrel adjusters.

The bike also came with barrel adjusters on the down tube, and there is an adjuster on the rear mech. This means that the cable for the rear mech will have three adjusters along its course.

Is there any reason to not have too many adjusters?

I could take the down tube adjusters off without it looking bad (they're not on bosses), but would like to keep them if there's no downside as they are a bit easier to operate that the ones built into the brakes.

Thanks


texts: I'll soon be attempting Loveland Pass west of Denver unsupported and would like to hear of any experiences and/or recommendations from others who have done it or another high mountain pass in the Rockies (or elsewhere). Particularly regarding how much food & water I'll need to carry over the top, how cold it will get at night in July (no rain expected).  It will be my first attempt.  I ride an old Scott NRS 3 with bikepacking bags.


texts: What bike crank do I have and how can I re-attach?

texts: So during quarantine i've picked up a hobby of bike riding. Recently while going for an afternoon bike ride I noticed one my pedals were shaking but I just ignored it. When I was finished riding I parked up my bike in the garage and I checked to see what the problem was. While inspecting/testing both my pedals one of the cranks just fell off. It turned out being only the crank was the problem. I was trying to figure out how to re-attach it looking at numerous threads and videos on the internet with no luck. I noticed my crank was different from a lot of the others I seen on the internet (mine having no bolt at all). This bike has been chilling in my garage for years unused (nor do i remember how it ended up there lol) so I couldn't tell you what type of bike it is or the model. Here are some photos


texts: Why does my bike feel slow, hard to ride and wobblier now?

texts:
I have a mountain bike with road tires, which I've use for commuting almost every day for over a year now but had barely used for the many years before. It has recently (~1.5 months ago) been serviced, which involved the brakes being adjusted and something being replaced due to damage which I believe was the headset, but I can't be sure because I just agreed to replace what was necessary and the conversation was not in my native language.

Before the service my bike was always a bit wobbly, but I always thought it was normal. Afterwards I realised why other people have to make so much less effort to balance when making hand signals.

At some point after the service my front tire seemed to be going down very quickly, but after checking for punctures and finding nothing I put the tube back in and the tire has held pressure well since. The problem is, since then I feel like I am constantly cycling with a flat despite the pressure being right, and my bike seems wobblier than ever before. I don't know whether I did something wrong when I checked the tire (never done it before) or whether it is something completely different.

Can anyone help?


texts:
Sometimes, when I put a lot of pressure on my pedals while accelerating or skidding, my pedals "drop" like when your cog is unscrewing. I have a lock ring, so it's not unscrewing. I've recently changed my chain. Do you guys know the problem? I can't ride like this.
I can send photos if needed.


texts: What kind of suspension do I have and how do I make it more soft? (I'm quite small)

texts: My suspension is very stiff, I would like to know why and how to make it better for my size. My bike is a 24" Muddy-Fox Impact hard tail. I went to a trail with friends and they were OK but I was not, please help!  I have tried putting oil on the outside even trying to breakdown the suspension by letting my big friend ride it but did not work.


texts:
I have Ultegra 3x9 shifters and derailleurs that were installed just a couple months ago.  I purchased them on eBay and although they were new, they had been sitting in inventory for a couple years so not "new" in that sense.  New cabling was used when they were installed.

Today my rear shifter suddenly stopped working for no apparent reason.  When I attempt to shift up to a smaller cog, the entire brake lever moves with the trigger, so they basically cancel each other out.  I inspected the cables and derailleur and everything seems fine.  Shifting still works perfectly if I hold the brake lever so it doesn't move with the trigger, and downshifting to larger cogs works fine also.  This tells me it's probably the shifter itself, not cabling or derailleur.

Googling around I find many posts advising the use of WD-40 to free up a sticky shifter.  The idea is that the grease Shimano uses hardens with age and WD-40 will clean it out.

Two questions:

Is this likely the problem?
If so, how do I re-lubricate the shifter after the WD-40?  To do it properly would require at least partially disassembling the shifter, which from what I've read and having seen the schematics, is something I really don't want to do.


texts: How often should I change road bike tyres?

texts:
My road bike has now done 500 miles, but unlike cars, I've no idea how often the tyres should be changed. It's used on normal road conditions. The brow of the tyre is now smooth.

How do I know if my tyres need to be changed, and how long should I expect tyres to last?


texts:
I have recently replaced the chain and the cassette. Previous chain never slipped. I never had any problems with it at all. But I have made about 10 000 km on it and the wear was beyound any limits, so friends and guys in the bike service recommended replacing both chain and the cassette. I did a lot of reading and I know that chain and the cassette wear together.

So I got chain and the cassette replaced. It is a 9 speed cassette. I have asked to replace it with a little lower gear ratio. Guys in the workshop also indexed the derailleur for me.

Since I collected my bike the chain slips terribly every time I stand up on the pedals. Sometimes it also slips when I apply enough pressure even while seated. But standing up is a definite slip. I already have few bruises from falling down on the frame.

I had assumption about chain being too long, but is seems to be just about ok.

I have also figured out that the chain never slips if it is on the lowest or the highest chainring. It only happens with the middle chainring. As I have said before - it never happened before with the old chain/cassette. Now I have tried to stand up and pedal very hard in all gears on low and high chainrings. Never got a single slip in about half an hour of trying. Changed back to the middle chainring - it slips in every gear from 1 to 9 when enough torque is applied.

So the question is: can it be that chain is slipping at the chainring? Do chains ever slip at the chainring at all? I have never heard of anything like that. Is there a simple way to test it in order to be sure that the chainring is the root cause?

I really don't want to blame it on the chainring and get it replaced just to figure out that the problem never went away.


texts:
I have an old "Favorit" racing bike from Czechoslovakia and I'm missing some bolts on the chainring. I went trough some bike shops and couldn't find a replacing one. The bolts diameter is slightly smaller on mine which make the new unable to fit.

I would like to keep the "style" of my bike as intact as possible. I can see two options here:

Find a website with such old chainring bolts (if anyone got any tips here, I've been pretty unlucky so far)
Make the hole in the chainring slightly bigger (by using a file?).

What would you recommend? Would option 2) be even possible?

Thanks in advance!


texts: Missing mtb bottom bracket cable guide screw?

texts:
2016 Diamondback Haanjo Comp

I was giving the bike a bit of a wipedown today and noticed a missing screw on the bottom.

I've been unable to find any specifications such as this from DB.

Can I figure this out without taking it apart?  (I don't want to take the other screw out since it looks like I'd have a mess on my hands.

Does anybody have an idea what screw I need to get and where to get it?


texts:
I would like to get into biking. Haven’t ridden since I was a kid. Back then everyone had a one speed bike. The 10 speed English racer was the bike you dreamed of getting. I never had one.

I’m in my early 70’s and live in W. Massachusetts, very hilly terrain. Up until a couple years ago I did a lot of inline distance skating (K2’s w/90mm wheels). My usual loop was 13 miles (21 km) and my longest trip was 26 miles (42 km). My legs are strong and I think I would enjoy biking.

I’m finding the world of bike choices a bit confusing. Sport/hybrid, road bike, touring, fitness etc. Will be riding almost exclusively on back country roads and as I mentioned, I live in a very hilly area. Would like to work up to riding a 50 miler (80 km) eventually. I am 5’8” (172 centimetres), 145 Lbs (66 kilograms) 32” (81 centimetre) inseam, if that helps.

I did some research and have come up with what I think I need, but am not really sure.

Sport/hybrid
aluminum frame
Flat handle bar
Triple chainring
9 speed rear cassette
Fully hydraulic discs brakes (because of the hills)
rapid fire shifters
700c tires
carbon fork?

Would like to find a used bike for around $500 for my first bike to see how I like it. Hoping someone could tell me if I’m on the right track with my choices and maybe recommend a few used models I could look for that would work for me.

Thank you, thank you for all the great input! I found and purchased a used bike which is like new and had exactly what I was looking for.

I decided to go with a double front chainset rather then the triple as recommended by a couple posters. Since I’ve never ridden a geared bike I felt that it would be a lot less confusing. This bike also has a carbon front fork and hydraulic brakes.

I’m going to use a flat parking area up at our high school to familiarize myself with using the gears.


texts:
Do all shock pumps use a schrader valve?  I've just taken a look at a couple of product listings and found no mention of the valve type.  I guess that might be to avoid people buying those pumps for regular tires after reading that they connect to schrader valves, but right now I'm trying to figure out what is correct for my new fork.

The fork description states that it has a schrader valve, and I was able to confirm that with my roady style hand pump, but obviously only top it up a tiny amount.


texts:
I have a new chain/ cassette that is causing the chain to skip /jump randomly on an MTB I use for commuting and is driving me mad with the following symptoms:

I can physically see the chain hop on the rear sprocket when I ride or backpedal.
This only happens in dry weather (not when raining).
It happens in any gear but is usually the same link and usually happens on a multiple of 3.5 crank turns -sometimes it can be 3 half turns in a row or not happen at all for 5 miles or more.
I commute the same 8 mile route to and from work with a moderate hill in the middle and the skipping is truly random -some days it will happen on the hill, others at the begining/ end of the route and can vary between 40 and 400 skips per outbound or return journey depending on the day (averaging at about 125 skips).

I have tried the following without success:

The chain is properly lubricated (not squeaking or full of grit/ dirt).
I have tried twisting the link concerned (to iron out the stiff link -this will work for a day at most) and I have taken out the link (PLus 2 on either side) and replaced it with unused links from the original packaged chain (again this will work for a day or two and then back to the original problem).
The gears are properly indexed but this happens in any gear and gets worse when I've changed down from the big to middle front chainring (but evens out over time).
I have tried the B tension screw on the derailer at fully out/ fully in and every other position between (the skipping didn't happen on the previous chain/ chainring and cluster combination).
I have replaced the gear cables and lubricated the cable guides.
I have now been riding with this problem daily for about 4 months (in the hope that it might wear in) without success.

I am about to buy a new chain, chainrings and cluster in the hope that it was just a duff chain, but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.


texts:
I recently got a new road bike. A really beginners one (which is what I am). It is a Triban RC120 with disc cable brakes.

I have two questions,

Are there gear-chainring combinations that I cannot expect to work smoothly? Or I should expect all of them to work just as fine?
When does the normal user change the chainring? When I am in the biggest gear in the smaller chainring and I want more, do I have to change to a smaller gear and then to the bigger chainring?


texts:
My initial suspicion was that the clicking/cracking noise my bike makes was coming from my bottom bracket. But today, I noticed that when applying full power while standing up, no clicks are present.

When I am not standing, my center of mass obviously goes to the back of the bike. Therefore, I suspect the problem comes either from the back part of the frame (closer to what I hear) or the rear wheel (less probable in my opinion).

My frame/rear wheel have a warranty of 2 years, so I would really like to know if the noise comes from the frame or the wheel. Is there a way to diagnose such a thing? Removing the bottom bracket and inspecting the interior of the frame would be worth?

The only way to rule out a wheel issue would be to get another wheel to test?


texts: What is the black plastic circle on wheel axle nut?

texts:
I have been seeing a black plastic part on the nuts of the wheels. My bike also has this. I think I have seen this only on old bikes. Does it have a name and purpose?

Some close up:


texts: Skipping on new chain, new cassette, new derailleur

texts:
For a long time I have been having issues with chain skipping on my 1999 Trek 6500.  I took a video to illustrate exactly what I mean by "skipping":

Over the last few months, in the course of trying to fix it, LBS has persuaded me to replace the chain, rear wheel & cassette, rear derailleur, shifters, and cables.  Derailleur hanger angle has been checked, limit screws and cable position adjusted.  None of these have completely fixed the issue.

As it is now, I can reliably reproduce the issue by riding over a large bump, or doing a bunnyhop to cause a physical shock to the bike, then riding for several seconds while standing up and accelerating hard.  If I remove the bump from the equation and just accelerate over smooth pavement, the issue does not occur.  There is generally one skip per bump - i.e. After a skip occurs, I usually must induce another bump before it will skip again.

What other candidates are there to investigate as the cause of this issue, and how would one test them?


texts:
In E.T. the bicycles fly. In old films we see some inventors try to construct a bicycle which flies, with wings similar to a bird's.

Yogi bear has a flying ship.

See the picture above the site.  The rider is at top of the hill. but if the bicyle could fly he could go anywhere, like Willy Wonka's elevator.

Has any flying bicycle been invented yet?


texts: Shimano Sora shifter having trouble in the snow

texts:
So today is the first day of snow here in Norway, and I had prepared well for this day. My Giant Cyclocross has new spiked tires and i've done a check on all components, they are ready for the winter-commuting.

When I got to my first climb on my way to work today, I noticed my right shifter wasn't working. I got Shimano Sora shifters, and Tiagra derailleurs. I could flip the shifter, but the gear wouldn't stick. If I held the shifter flipped, the gear would lower, but as I released it, it would jump right back. This happened after just 5 minutes outside in the heavy snowfall. It was as if the mechanical inside the shifter wasn't working.
I store my bike indoors at home, so my bike wasn't frozen when I got on, and I don't think its below 0Celcius outside even.

My bike is only a year old, and I haven't had any big troubles with either shifters or derailleurs before. This is my first year riding it in the snow.

Is this a common problem with the cheap shifters? Is there anything I can do to help/prevent sticky shifting?

edit: It seemed I could shift into a heavier gear without problem (loosening cable tention), but shifting into a lighter gear( thightening cable) was close to impossible.

Edit 2: After the whole day inside my shifter still won't work. I'll open the shifter up this weekend and see if I can find the problem.


texts:
I'm an RA for a dorm that is considering buying a number of bikes that would be owned by the dorm and lent out to students. I will be at least in part responsible for maintaining the fleet (about 10 bikes) so I was thinking it should have fewer things to break. I considered getting single speeds but I think students might want to be able to change gears from time to time (though there aren't many hills here).

I was thinking maybe a triple crank and single speed in the back might be an option. This would mean only a front derailleur so fewer parts to fix. Has anyone tried this? I couldn't find anyone online mentioning it. I think a 1x9 with a 34T chainring is the other option.


texts: Changing my crank on a track bike and it wont turn

texts:
I bought a new crank for my bike, when fitted tight the crank is stiff to turn as I think it is rubbing against the bottom bracket housing.

Any advice on what to do, have I bought the wrong crank?


texts:
Frame number (bottom bracket) MC9008 1987
Cruiser style,26" rims


texts:
I've damaged the rear derailleur on my bike, and it needs to be replaced. I don't really have an LBS. I've looked around online, but I can't seem to find a correct replacement. I should clarify that both the derailleur and the mounting bracket are damaged.

Where can I find a replacement for my derailleur?


texts:
I have a folding bike (basically this Origin8 model) and the seat/seat post got stolen.

I haven't replaced a seat post before, but this is the only replacement post I could find, and I'm not sure what else I need besides a saddle.  It doesn't have any sort of mounting apparatus, so I'm not sure what kind of saddle I need or if I'm missing really important hardware.  Is there a specific seat I should be looking for or do I need to buy mounting hardware?


texts:
I am looking to install a rear bike rack on by 26" MTB. I don't want to spend so much so I'm looking to just grab something from a thrift store from bikes like these .

Will installing these to my MTB work?


texts: Will short arm crank conversion work for me?

texts:
I own an 18 speed "Columbia Journey Comfort Bike". Since having 2 knee replacements I find that I do not have enough knee bend to pedal. I have raised the seat & still cannot even do one revolution without severe pain. My bike shop says "short-arm crank conversion". He is suggesting 152 cm but I wonder if something much shorter like a 135cm would enable me to pedal? Can anybody relate to my dilemma? What size crank do I need? I am a woman 5'6" & my bike is a Men's. I just want to ride again!
Thank you.


texts: Can I fit my normal brake levers to the curves of the dropbars?

texts:
I ride Firefox Rapide 21S, a hybrid bicycle.
It has factory fitted flat-riser handlebars with Shimano EF500 levers for V-brakes with gear shifter integrated.

I am an unprofessional rider, I always liked riding fast, I gained knowledge about dropbars and actual road bikes after getting this one, as I realized I needed more to go faster.

I was recently thinking about fitting a dropbar to it and then mount my existing levers onto the place of hoods, as it goes beyond my budget to purchase them.

Will it be a good idea to do so?
Will it even work if I tighten it really hard so it doesn't slip?
Or, just not get into this mess and I'll be alright with fitting them on the flat portion of the bar?

I'm also attaching images of levers, but not dropbar(I haven't bought them yet).


texts: Dismounting/mounting the back wheel on a "Eurobike"

texts:
My son has a "Eurobike" (hybrid/"comfort" bike with Nuvinci variable speed rear hub and fully-enclosed chainline).  He broke a spoke (which is another discussion) and since the spoke broke at the nipple we had to dismount the rear wheel to replace the nipple.

Anyway, this is the first time any of us (two grown sons and myself) had dealt with such an arrangement, so a little fumbling was exspected.  We removed the two screws securing the cover over the hub area and, after some fiddling, pulled out the wheel.  Replaced nipple and spoke, did some "by guess and by gosh" wheel truing, and went to reinstall the wheel.

Well, long story short, somewhere in the process of getting the wheel back in the chain jumped off the front sprocket.  This created a royal PITA situation in the relatively controlled circumstances where we were (concrete surface in the shade at a camp site) but would have been a total disaster if repairing a puncture on the road.

The remaining 5-6 (tiny, easily lost) screws securing the chain cover were removed, but it would not come off due to the crank arm blocking it.  So it was a matter of the three of us fishing for the chain with the broken spoke (while prying the halves of the cover apart) to get the chain back on the sprocket, a process that took an extra 10-15 minutes.

Granted, inexperience was a factor, but it would seem that there's got to be some "trick" to keep the chain in place, other than to just hope to have better luck next time.

Does anyone have experience with this and know what could be done differently?


texts: I have a new road bike that has a triple crankset. But I wanted to try double on it. When I replaced it. I found out that my standard square tapered double cranks won't fit with the bike's frame. Can I just instead use a double crank that is Hollowtech capable for me to able to do so? Because, correct me if I'm wrong, but it raises the crankset up a bit away from the frame right? Thanks I really appreciate any info.


texts:
What do I need to research to switch to an internally geared hub?

Having looked at the above Q and A, I have a followup question.  I have a Globe Work 2, that I'm considering converting to an IGH.  Will I need to replace the rear wheel?  I ask because Globe makes a Work 3 with an IGH and as far as I can tell, the bikes are otherwise identical.  Does this indicate that the wheel will take an IGH without modification or am I just being hopeful?

I'm really just curious because I'm considering doing this myself, but I don't want to get in over my head, so I'm trying to figure out how much work this is going to be before I decide.


texts: Can a tandem's front bottom bracket fail catastrophically?

texts:
Many tandems have a front bottom bracket that looks like this:

The front bottom bracket is mounted off-centre in an aluminum shell called "the eccentric."  When the pinch bolts shown in the picture are loosened, the eccentric can rotate within the bottom bracket shell to tighten or loosen the tandem's timing chain (that joins the front and rear cranks).

If the pinch bolts broke, or if the braze-ons they fit into sheered off, would the bottom bracket shell pop open?  It seems to me that the integrity of the bottom bracket shell is totally dependent on the bolts; that you'd bend the frame quite badly if they broke.