texts:
I'm looking at getting front suspension for my bike for long (several months +) off-road tours (think Great Divide).  I was thinking about whether it would prevent requiring maintenance/servicing to cover & seal my stanchions with something.  For instance, I could take a large innertube, slide one up each leg of the fork and tape it to both the crown and lowers to completely seal off that area from grime and wet.

Note that normal boots don't actually seal off the area in this way.

Would this or any other similar measure prevent wear on the suspension?


texts: Are sealed bearings equal to cartridge bearings in single speed hubs?

texts:
Single speed hubs are often speced with sealed bearings. In my brief market search I haven't seen any hubs with cartridge bearings in the specifications.

Are sealed bearings used synonymous with cartridge bearings in the context of single speed hubs? How to identify if a hub has cartridge bearings?

In general, the presence of a seal does not depend on the type of bearing. A cup and cone bearing may be sealed while a cartridge bearing may lack a seal. However, track bikes (velodrome) usually have cup and cone bearings for adjustability and lack seals to reduce friction losses. This may have led to such hubs' bearings being referred to as unsealed.

See also a related question on hub bearings.


texts: flight deck st 4400 shifter not working. I have sprayed it and a man said is was US. What other shifters can I use new or used. I do not need the electrics cheers Steve


texts: I am changing the shifter cable on a bike with grip shift.  I heard the cable casing is different than other types.  Is the cable different?


texts: The crank arm on my fixed gear "slips" when I put large pressure on the pedals like when I take that first pedal to get the bike moving or pulling up hard on my toe straps to slow down. The slip is very smooth and feels like if your back wheel was spinning in place on wet tile/marble, however, my back wheel is not moving in situations when my crank arm slips. I've just gotten the bike from shop maintenance a few days ago too so I don't think it's an obvious issue? I've heard maybe I need it's a cog or lockring issue. Can someone tell me more? I need to be able to pedal forwards and backwards with a lot of torque safely. Thank you!!


texts: Part name: what is this attachment point for on my new Cube carbon frame?

texts: I've got a new fully today, and there is one attachment point on the frame that I cannot identify. Perhaps it's a silly question, but I've given up after 20 minutes of googling :)


texts:
From reading around on the internet I understand that pannier bags are comfortable to ride long distances with on a bicycle.

In my current rough travel plan I decided I also want to (hitch)hike a large part of the journey, so I would need a regular backpack (±70L).

To keep the costs down I wondered if there's some sort of hybrid pannier bag that not only can be hooked on to a bike, but also to a "body harness" in practice becoming a backpack.
I found some hybrids but these are small and have far less volume than a hiking backpack.

So does a system where I can carry multiple pannier bags on my back exist?


texts:
A few days ago, someone asked a question which touched upon the bedding-in process for their new disc brakes. Because the question did not have any answer already, I wrote one in which I said that bedding-in would happen in any case with use. I kept track of this question and, later, saw a second answer in which the responder said that there was a specific process that you have to follow, otherwise the brakes would not work properly. And I was surprised to see that this answer had several upvotes.

So my question, basically, is, Is there a specific bedding-in process which should be followed? If so, what is it and why is there a process over and above just riding the brakes in? Is it different between disc and rim brakes? Is this process different between one brake and the next? Some concrete examples would be great.


texts: Using non-brand oil for cleaning brake pistons

texts:
I am having some problems with rubbing disc brakes and came to the conclusion that it might be because of "sticky pistons". I would like to clean and lubricate them, as here.
This video instructs to use the same brand oil for cleaning them as is used in the hydraulic system. These brakes use mineral oil. Questions: 1. Is it safe to use another brand's mineral oil for this task? 2. Is it safe to use different mineral oil, e.g. watchmaker's oil?
This question is only about cleaning and lubricating the pistons, not about adding more oil to the system. I am aware that using DOT fluid is not safe—the question is about using other kinds of mineral oil.


texts: New chain skips when old chain was replaced at 0.75% mark

texts:
I have a 3x8 hybrid bike that I use for commuting. I clean and lube the chain about every 200km, and regularly check it for wear using a chain cheker. I usually manage to ride between 1300 to 1600 km before the chain wears out beyond to the 0.75% level, at which point, to my understanding, an 8-speed chain requires replacement.
The problem is that every time I've tried replacing a chain that was worn at the 0.75% level, the new chain skips on all hub sprockets, even though these never look particularly worn out, and even at low load. As an example, see the attached photo with the latest worn hub.

Every time, this forced me to keep riding with the old chain until it broke, usually between 3000 and 4000 km, and then replace the entire drivetrain.
I tried changing the chain earlier, and so far I've got it down to 1200 km, but the issue remains.
Contributing to chain wear are the following: I am over 190 cm tall and weigh over 100 kg; I live in northern Europe, where the climate is rainy from autumn to spring and the grit on the road is granite or other hard stones; I often carry my son in a trailer, adding 40+ kg of pulled weight.

In your experience, is it normal that an 8-chain skips at every turn at the 0.75% wear level?
If so, given the information above, when would you suggest me to change the chain to avoid wearing the hub down?


texts: Which brake pads to choose if you have fake carbon clinchers

texts:
I have one more question regarding this question well answered. (Thanks for all answers.)

Now I checked that, The wheels which I have, are FAKE
 as you see on left image. I have two questions:

Which brake pads should I use if I don't know even is it carbon or not.
Can I use this wheels, or replace them something else.. I'm asking because of aero effect.

Image taken from Zipp official website


texts: Can I use a 9sp chainring set on my MTB which has a 8 speed Shimano CS-HG70 Cassette

texts:
Just installed the CS-HG70 cassette and while doing some tuning, noticed that my chainring is no longer true, especially around the crank so am thinking about replacing the chainring set but can not find a decent 8 speed set but see a lots of 9 speed chainring set, can I use that instead?

Thanks


texts: What is the maximum and average power that can be produced by 175 mm crank length

texts: Power produced by 175mm crank length in semi recumbent racing bike


texts: Bike broke, strange parts came out, and doesn't know where to find exact replacement

texts:
My friend's bike broke and this thing came out... From various sources I found that it's probably a cog from deraileur. He went to bike shops but none could find a replacement that's for this exact brand (and no one told him what brand it is even when he asked...). Therefore it would be great if anyone could give some pointers of what brand/size/etc so we could buy it off the internet (if you know where that would be really helpful too!)
I could also update with more info if needed, e.g. if you need the brand of the bike


texts: Brand new Trek X-Caliber 7 - RockShox 30 Silver lockout not working

texts: I just bought a brand new bike fitted with RockShox 30 Silver front forks and took it for a ride on disused railway gravel cycle track. The lockout dial does not seem to do anything. This is my first time with suspension forks so no idea what to expect.


texts: Where can I buy lugs for a classic roadster frame geometry?

texts: The title says it all. I want to build my own frame and need lugs that will fit the roadster (e.g. Raleigh Tourist) geometry.


texts: Ideal distance between chainring and chain stay

texts:
I am building a single speed bicycle, and I have most of the drivetrain parts:

Rear hub
18T rear cog (40-40.5mm ideal rear chainline -- wheel undished)
1/8" chain
crankset with 40T chainring

I used the formulae in the answers of How do I calculate the diameter of a chainring from the number of teeth? and calculated that a 32T or smaller front chainring is needed to maintain the chainline for an undished rear wheel (otherwise the chainring would rub the chain stay of my specific frame, and I will be forced to increase the chainline, adjust spacers on the rear hub, and dish the rear wheel).

But 32/18 is too low of a gear ratio, so I made a compromise and chose a 40T chainring which I intend to place as close as possible to the chain stay, in order to have a front chainline as close as possible to 40mm, for a rear wheel as undished as possible (because it will be stronger, from what I've read).

The last part that I need is a bottom bracket cartridge with the proper spindle length, that will dictate the front chainline and how close the chainring seats to the chain stay. For the proper spindle length I need to take into consideration (and maybe other factors as well):

JIS vs ISO square taper types -- I think I need to add 4.5mm to the chainline just to leave room for a non-ideal combination of the 2 standards that may result now, or with future replacements; But using this knowledge:  How can I tell the difference between a J.I.S. and ISO square taper bottom bracket? I think I can avoid mixing them wrong.
Flexing of the steel chain stay and frame while riding which may cause the chainring to hit;
After being used for some time, the crank hole might get larger, thus needing to be screwed in farther on the spindle, closer to the frame;
The chainring might slightly bend with time. I don't want the lightest hit to cause it to rub.

No crankset chainline info is specified. But I have an old spindle, I will install the crankset on it, make some measurements, then calculate the proper spindle length and symmetry relative to this one that I have.

How should I proceed with the measurements? What would be the optimal chainring - chain stay distance to aim for? I don't have enough experience to know how much each of the above mentioned factors weighs into the equation.

UPDATE: It turns out that in order to have the 40T chainring placed at 4-5mm away from the chain stay, the rear wheel needs a 4mm dish. How much will 4mm dish weaken the rear wheel?


texts: Securing a bike on a car rack against theft

texts:
I sometimes find the need to leave my bike on my bike rack while I'm away from my car.  It's a simple strapped-on rack, so locking the bike to the rack doesn't help.  (My car doesn't have a towing hitch.)

What can I do to secure the bike to the car in a way that will deter theft?


texts: new to the Presta valve game, I just replaced my tube and the valve tore in less than 10 mins of riding. My bike tire is 26x1.9 the tube the got was 1.7-2.4. I have both the same rims and the front is also running a Presta valve. Not sure if I did something wrong or just a faulty tube.


texts: Can a BB30 Crank Arm (Left) power meter can be used with a BB386EVO Crankset

texts:
I have read many websites and articles about the interchangeability of BB30 and BB386EVOsuch as this and this YouTube video. Many say yes and many say no. Yet, I am not sure which Stages FSA power meter I should order for my Opus Allegro 4.0 2014 version FSA Gossamer C6020SS 50-34 172.5mm crankset.
I am not sure if using a BB30 on a BB386EVO will adversely affect the Q-factor or not. I have attached my left crank arm for your reference.

These are the Stages FSA power meters that I found (I live in Canada):

1) FSA Energy (3rd Gen)
2) FSA carbon (3rd Gen)
3) FSA SRAM BB30 (2nd Gen)

Any help would be appreciated


texts: Converting RockShox Pike DJ 2018 forks from 140mm to 100mm of travel

texts:
I have a pair of RockShox Pike DJ forks at 140mm of travel that I bought fairly recently. The specific model number and details are as follows:

Model ID: FS-PIKE-DJ-A3

Year: 2018

Spring: Solo air

Wheel size: 26 inch

When I bought these it stated they could be converted to 100mm of travel which I am looking to do for dirt jumping. I cannot for the life of me work out what I need to buy to do this conversion. I have seen various RockShox Pike DebonAir Upgrade Kits online but I don't think any convert to 100mm of travel for these forks.


texts: Are Ultegra 10 Speed Sprockets available separately?

texts: I'm looking to buy some Ultegra 10 speed sprockets, specifically a 16,18,23 and 25. Are these available separately?


texts:
Recently, I realized that my bike front wheel axle is making clicking sound.
Now, i am trying to resolve the problem.

Do I need to put a grease(special oil),
 or I need to buy new front wheel axle,
or I need to change ball bearings.

I am a novice in this.


texts: Is it worth getting a suspension seat post as a cheap alternative to full suspension bike?

texts: I'm planning a ride from Birmingham to London on the Grand Union Canal (UK), which will be quite bumpy for most of the 145 mile distance.  I have a front suspension bike and can't afford a new full suspension bike.  Do suspension seat posts actually work?  If so, I'll get one of them.  Can anyone recommend a good model?


texts: How do I go about choosing a bike for commuting?

texts:
I am absolutely lost in the world of bicycles!  I have long ridden a MTB, but now I am a good 16kms(10+ miles) away from work.(where I wish to commute too) and i just need more speed.

I'm confused by bike talk around "geometries", I want a bike that will handle pretty rough roads/bike paths but one that is a lot quicker than a mountain bike.

It would be great if I could use my bike in amatuer level triathlons or cyclocross style racing, but it needs to be comfy enough for day to day riding.

Any ideas where I should start?  I want to spend less than US$2000.  I'm a 6ft guy with average reach


texts:
What is the name of the part, often seen on BMX bicycles, that allows an additional rider on the back the bike? It appears to be a set of relatively short but thick poles that go on either side of the axle of the rear wheel so a passenger can stand on it and—holding onto the shoulders of the driver—can be transported with minimal effort.

What is that part called?


texts: Loose brake cable hook bushing inside the brake/shifter hood

texts:
I noticed a slight clicking noise and a resistance when squeezing the right (from the bicyclist's point of view) brake. Inside the hood, I can see a white rubber thingy (pivot bushing, thanks mikes) that has come half loose. The pictures are taken from above, when squeezing the brake levers as far as they can go. On the left brake, the white thing sits nicely in its slot. To the right, it has come loose and moves around weirdly and makes a noise.

Is there a way to get to the bushing and put it back in its place? I feel that some disassembly is required.

Another picture, further away and from the front of the bike:

I have a pair of Shimano Sora brake/shifters, manufactured in 2015:

UPDATE: Turns out the thing the pivot bushing sits in is called a "brake cable hook"!


texts:
I've almost always rode on a BMX, so I've never been sitting while riding because of how low the seat is.Now I've had a chance to try out a more normal bike but I found sitting on the seat to be very uncomfortable so I've been riding several km standing.

I've also tried many different seats but they were all too uncomfortable.

I'm quite concerned that if I start doing this everyday Ill develop some leg problems (like blood circulation maybe?) or have other issues.


texts:
I have a 2015 Giant Trance that is about 3 weeks old. Used pretty much every weekend. It's kept in a shed (fully covered,  no insulation just a regular shed), after every ride I give it a nice clean with a hose lightly over top, use an air compressor then use a micro fiber cloth to dry down and tidy up. My bolts, chain and discs for my brakes seem to have a lot of rust on them for 3 weeks old.

I have 2 questions:

Is this rust bad for my bike and if so, how do I remove it?
Is cleaning it with a hose, using the air compressor then the cloth bad for the bike and maybe making it rust?

Sorry if this is hard to understand, feel free to ask questions to know more.
Thanks!

P.S. Where I am from there is a lot of sulphur in the air (it's bad enough people visiting smell it very easily) so maybe that could be apart of it? It's also summer (southern hemisphere) and our trails are mainly in the trees, with the occasional tracks where trees have been cut down. Hope this helps.


texts: Oversized tyres and teaching my son to measure!

texts:
So my son has been trying to customize his bike and seems to have never heard of a tape measure!! I need some help to get him on the road! He has purchased 2 oversized tyres with a size 26 x 2.50. The exsisting tyres are 27.5 x 2.10 so will these tyres fit onto that size rim?
The tyres that are currently on the rims are a brand called kenda and seem to be stuck to the rim somehow, I cant seem to take them off the rim? If anyone can help me I would be so grateful cause at the moment I'm getting grief from all angles and it's not even my fault!!!!


texts: Jockey pulley (upper jockey wheel) suddenly not engaging with the chain when in the three largest (easiest) cogs on the big ring only

texts:
The gears work fine across the whole cassette on the inner ring but all of a sudden the chain has stopped engaging with the upper jockey wheel when in the big ring and three largest (easiest) sprockets of the rear derailleur.

The jockey pulley looks out of position when this happens (almost horizontal to the lower tension pulley jockey wheel - the chain then simply isn't reaching the upper jockey wheel) and the chain makes an unholy racket with the drive train eventually seizing up entirely until I shift into smaller (harder) sprockets.

This seemed to occur straight after I removed then replaced the rear wheel, catching it a little on the brake pads as I did, which resulted in a bit of a clunky removal.

Is this likely to be the result of a bent, misaligned rear derailleur?


texts:
What is a good headlight for my bike?

Requirements:

Swappable between bikes
Good for bumpy roads/situations such as gravel or dirt
Long lasting battery
Far reaching range of light
LED of course! :-)


texts: Can any dynamo hub get the electricity rotating with the spokes?

texts: I want to make wheel LEDs powered by a dynamo hub. I was wondering if that's even possible. Any ideas or models?


texts: could I mount a different manufacturer brand rotor to use with my brakes?

texts: I've a tektro draco hydraulic brakes on my mtb and I would like to know if it is possible to mount a different brand rotor to use with my brakes?


texts:
I am preparing my bike for a 2000 km trip. I have an old and used ~2003 hybrid bike with 105 derailleurs and want to change the current horizontal handlebars to road ones, so I have to change cables and shifters too.

Some time ago I got an almost new Shimano Sora groupset, so I will use, at least, those shifters for my bike. Do you think I should also change the derailleurs or should I better stay with the current old but nice 105?


texts: Using a Tiagra/105 front derailleur with R3000 shifters

texts: The Sora 2x derailleur mech that came with my gravel bike broke in half. Is the 2x Tiagra/105 front derailleur compatible with the R3000 shifters? Thanks!


texts: Will a tube smaller than the tire be compatible?

texts: I have a e-scooter with 10" by 2.50" wheels that needs a tube. Will a 10" by 2" tube be compatible with the tire? Or do I need to purchase one with the same size as the tire? Please let me know. Thank you


texts: Schwinn runabout trailer/seatpost attachment

texts:
I obtained a second hand Schwinn Runabout Child's bike that attaches to the seat post of my bike with the pictured example of the attachment.

However I am missing the three rings to use for a secure fit. Any idea where I could get something like this? My online search came up empty, unless I want to purchase a whole new attachment.


texts: Specialized Allez - Upgrade to Carbon Seatpost for Long Distance Comfort?

texts:
A bit of background: I've been riding a stock 2012 Specialized Allez since I bought it (in 2012). I am a larger guy (105 kg), and tend to go for rides in the 50-100+ km range.

No matter what I wear for my rides (padded shorts, bibs, etc - spanning price points), I start to feel it in my seat right around the 40-50 km point, and end up shifting around due to discomfort for the rest of the ride.

Three questions:

1) Is this due to the stiffness of the aluminum?
2) Is part of it due to my weight?
3) Would an upgrade to a carbon seat post help with this/be noticeable?

Thanks.


texts: Which are bicycle-politicized groups or advocate groups?

texts:
Well, that is it. I want better roads, more safe roads, better maintained roads to bicyclists so I am looking for bicycle-politized groups or advocate groups around the world. I believe they may have done a lot of pioneering work about bicycling like in the safety -issue. So do not let the word politics stray you, I am also interested in their research and material/projects they may have.

The question is general, I am not limiting this answer to any specific country.


texts:
I just ordered and received my bike with FSA Tempo CK-200 crankset and Shimano Saint MX80 pedals (really good deal).

Just received and it seems that they do not fit with crankset! The spindle on pedals is too big. I probably could forcefully put them on, however i believe I would break stuff.

Before ordering i read online and it seemed that all new bikes (road/cyclocross) have the same size and it should fit just perfect.

It does not. What size do i need? I tried googling FSA Tempo CK-200, but I cannot find any information!

Help!


texts: Chain is choking and pedals fly forwards when going up hill or standing on the bike pedals

texts:
I have a 2 month old Vodoo Bizango from Halfords in the UK. I have had this problem about 2 weeks into having the bike where if I'm on the highest gear and want to do sprints (standing on the pedals) the chain will choke/make a churning noise and then the pedals will just fly forwards, I have not been able to replicate the same thing when I turn the bike upside and lay its on it's seat. This caused one of my bike chains to snap, supposedly they replaced the derailer and the chain but I'm still having the same problem. It's now started to creep to lower gears now when I'm climbing up hills too.

I'm a complete novice at bikes and the mechanics but I need this sorting, it's my main mode of transports especially to work.

All help is appreciated, thank you.


texts:
My LBS claims that Shimano's 10 speed groups are going away forever. They told me that if I don't upgrade to 11 speed that my next replacement will cost me an arm and a leg because 10 speed components will cost more due to a shortage. I've googled and checked here but found nothing to support their claim. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong place to get my news, so is Shimano discontinuing 10 speed road bike components, and should I just upgrade/get a new road bike to future proof my rides?

Bike: 2007 Specialized Tarmac Expert Duo


texts: STI brake shifters for cantilever brakes?

texts:
I have a Jamis Aurora 2016:

Jamis Aurora

I'd quite like to convert it to have brake lever gear shifters (the shifters are on the end of the handlebar drops which I don't really like). But will they work with cantilever brakes?

Does anyone have experience of doing this? Is it a lot of hassle?


texts: How old is too old for aggressive cycling?

texts: Downhill, freeride, dirt jumping, BMX. Am I too old for complete experience of these styles at 28 ? Have no prior experience, but think to jump in. I did extensive reading on this topic, forums, blogs and reddit mainly, it usually starts off with how it is never too late, but when I scroll to bottom, there are horror stories like chronical aches, bones never healing properly, repetitive stress injury and other things I don't want in 30s and 40s.


texts:
I have been riding a bike that is in all honesty meant for someone much smaller than me.  I have raised the seat quite high and got it far back enough that my spine is in proper posture while I ride.

I notice (during the day at work) a throbbing pain in my outer quadricep just above the knee.  I have been riding much more in the last few days (roughly 2 hours per day) and perhaps it's just part of being in my 30s adapting to this increased demand.

Or is it a symptom of bad leg posture that could lead to something worse down the road?


texts: Is SRAM road 11-speed 11-42 cassette compatible with Shimano MTB 11 speed?

texts:
I know that SRAM has adopted Shimano specs for chains and cassettes so they should be interchangeable but before I buy, I'd like to confirm. Are these cassettes interchangeable:

SRAM PG-1130 11-42 - marketed for NX (MTB) 1x11 and Apex (road)
1x11
Shimano SLX CS-M7000 11-42 11-speed


texts: How are Prophete chains with built-in locks assembled?

texts:
I recently bought a 3/32" chain from Prophete, and despaired in the attempt to close it. The complex end of the chain looks like this:

Now, at first thought, the slight groove (the one where you can peek the Euro sign) looks designed to take the bolt, and then pressure during riding will close the link. Unfortunately, the open part of the link is too short for the bolt to fit. Whenever I slide the upper part over the lower part, I have to bend it slightly, and the bolt misses the groove by half a bolt diameter.

How in the world should I assemble this?


texts: Can I put the speedometer sensor for my cycle computer on my rear brake line?

texts:
Pretty simple question I hope. I picked up a Bontrager Trip 3 because I saw it recommended several times for rear mounting (this is on a bike that will sit on a trainer). However, I am finding that there is nowhere on the rear portion of the body that puts the speedometer sensor close enough to the spokes of my wheel for it to sense the magnet as it travels. The only place I've found that might work is on the plastic sheath around the brake line near the rear disk brake. It looks like it requires about 1-3mm distance to be able to pick up the magnet - there's almost nowhere on my bike's body that comes that close to the spokes. The brake line sheath isn't very stable (it's just hard plastic) but it seems to work.

The only other option would be about 1" of shimming near where I have the cadence sensor.

The seatstays and chainstays for the bike are extremely wide because of disk brakes.


texts: Items required in a World travelling bike?

texts:
I saw a fascinating bicycle today with "world traveler" hand-written on the frame. I was awe-struck by this bike. The odometer showed over 2000 km ridden, in freezing winter temperatures. The plastic rear fender looked like it had been hit like by a cannonball. Its Brooks saddle (perhaps this model) and handlebars were very old and worn-out.

The bike had a sturdy headlight in the front, no disc brakes (a good decision, it just had easily fixed rim-brakes), a lock mounted to the frame by tubes wrapped around it, as well as front and rear racks.

There were also many oddities like a Hamex child-carrying-seat without the chair and a metallic chuck under saddle with a hole (perhaps to move something or to attach something).

It did not shine in glory, but it surely is a very well-used bike.

On such a bike, one would have to balance utility, weight, and durability. What do bikes being ridden around the world look like? How should a bike outfitted for an around-the-world tour be equipped?

Please explain why bikes on long-term tours have the equipment they have. I need to know this because I want to understand the differences between different items used on long-term tours.

Resources

spare master links (good insurance in the case of a chain break)
cable-actuated disc brakes or rim-brakes, more here
a lot of good stuff here for traveling


texts: Which lubricant/grease to use for ball bearings?

texts:
A little mishap happened today during cleaning my bicycle. I tried to take off the sprocket wheel for easier access, but instead I opened the lock nut of the hub (cassette type) and the balls came out.

Before I can put this mess back together I got some questions:

What kind of lubricant/grease do I need for the ball bearings?
There are two ball bearings in the wheel. One with smaller balls (the one on the sprocket wheel side), the other has bigger balls. Former used some black grease while the latter used a green, jelly-ish one. I'm confused, do they need different types of grease?
To solve my initial task: How would you get the sprocket wheel off of the wheel/hub/cassette? Does this require a special tool? I tried pulling, but I'm afraid to break something when pulling too hard.


texts: I haven't ridden a bike in many years. I am looking at this Trek bike, but I'm not sure on the model so I can't look up any info on it. Can anyone identify it for me please? And also, let me know if it's a good bike to start off with? The guy said it's in excellent condition, and ready to ride.


texts: Putting a DH fork on an enduro bike: consequences?

texts:
I am into downhill (DH) but I don't live 1) in a country with a lot of DH parks with lifting services etc 2) near such parks. Still I like riding rough stuff (in forests or in town) so that I would finally opt for an enduro bike.

Concretely: I initially planned to buy a DH bike, the Commencal Supreme DH 29 signature 2019 and finally I will end up buying an enduro bike, the Commencal meta AM 29 Signature 2019.

But, I would like to replace the fork of the enduro bike with the one from the DH bike.

Is this a good idea, as it would affect the geometry of the bike?

How would this specifically affect the bike? Would it affect pedaling a lot so that at the end I wouldn't be able to use it for enduro (flat + uphill pedaling) as efficiently? What would be other effects?


texts: What parts do I need to upgrade my drivetrain?

texts:
I have a Cannondale M300 with a 7-speed drivetrain.  The parts are fairly worn and I am considering converting to a 9-speed as 7-speed components are getting harder to find.

What parts do I need to consider to replace the drive-train?


texts: Different size cassette for the trainer?

texts:
Like I hoped, after a few months of hunting, I was finally able to find a really good deal on a road bike, in the winter. With the money saved, I was also able to buy a smart trainer to use with Zwift.

I need a spare cassette for the trainer. My current setup that came with the bike is 105 CS-R7000, 11-30T I'm thinking of getting a second cassette with a different range - I can see that they generally all start at 11 teeth and can even go up to 34T, but actually I'm thinking of getting 11-28 instead as where I live is pretty flat and i don't expect to use the 30T at all.

Should I get a different size cassette? Which one should I use on the trainer (given that Zwift has Alpe d'Huez etc) and which one should I keep for my road use? Is there any point in getting Ultegra (my bike is 105) and I clearly don't care for the weight on the trainer, but I've heard reports that Ultegra is more durable?


texts: Should I choose 26" or 28" size BTWIN Triban 100 with dropped handlebar?

texts:
My height is 5 ft 9.5" (176.5 cm). I went to Decathlon and tried out both the 26" and 28" bicycles there. Both sizes felt comfortable. But I cannot really tell unless I ride for a long distance. I had to raise the seat of the 26" and had to very slightly decrease the seat height of the 28".

Which bicycle size should I choose?


texts: Shimano Tourney Front Derailleur Cable Question

texts:
I'm trying to install a new front derailleur cable on an old mountain bike I've been helping to fix up for a friend. The derailleur is a bog-standard Shimano Tourney.
After removing the old cable and threading the new one through to where the derailleur is, I've realised I can't remember how the cable is attached! I'm not sure if it just fixes directly to the bolt or if it kind of wraps around part of the derailleur before going to the bolt.
I've attached a few photos to show both sides of the derailleur. Could anyone tell me exactly where the cable goes?


texts: Can I convert from a 52/42/30 crankset to 50/39/30?

texts:
I need to update my 9 speed triple crankset at 52/42/30, and those combinations seem difficult to find when I'm also looking to upgrade. A more common teeth combination seems to be 50/39/30, but I'm wondering what else I might have to upgrade if I make this move? Or is there another combination that I'm not aware of so that I don't have to make these updates?

Specifically:

Do I need a new front derailleur? (currently have Shimano Tiagra T, down pull, braze-on type w/34.9 mm clamp attachment)
And I have a 9 speed SRAM chain and 9 speed SRAM cassette. Will those need to be updated?
Lastly I have 9 speed Shimano Tiagra STI Dual Controls, will those need to be updated as well?

Any advice would be great. Thanks!


texts: I have a Trek Silque, 2017. What centimeter size should I be using in my computer for figuring correct distance?


texts:
When I go over a sidewalk, the marker ring on my shock goes all the way down the shock, so I think I need air.

I bought a Giant "shock pump" that supposedly goes up to 400 psi.
I screwed it onto my read Fox Shock, on my 2019 Giant Trance 2. The gauge on the pump reads 0. Shouldn't it be reading some air pressure, if there was air in my shock?

Then I started giving it some pumps. It resisted quite a bit. One pump it went up to 50 psi on the gauge. 2 pumps and it went up to 100. Then I can pump all day and it won't move beyond 100.

I don't think air is actually going into the shock. Is there some trick to this? I read over the manual and it just tells me to fill it with air, but there are no specifics.

Screenshots of my attempt:

The red thing seems to spin.
The blue thing seems to have 3 positions: down, right and left.
Where the pump is connected is the only place I see to make such a connection. * If I screw it SUPER tight, I read 200 psi on the gauge, but it will still not accept more air no matter how much I pump.


texts: Stud Tyres - fixing the spikes on new tyres

texts:
Schwalbe Snow Stud tyres seem like a good winter commuting tyre in places that have only occasional snow/ice conditions. When they are fully inflated they can be used on normal roads and when run on low pressure they should provide good enough grip to cycle in icy conditions.

There is a following note on schwalbe website:

  In order to ensure that spikes are permanently fixed, tyres should be
  run in for about 40km on asphalt, while avoiding any fast acceleration
  or heavy braking.

My question is: Should this tyre be run on normal or low pressure for that initial 40km use on asphalt?


texts:
I'm a guy and since I started wearing a helmet for mostly Trail Riding and occasionally for commuting, I noticed that the helmet looks really large on my head. My doctor later confirmed with a tape that my head is slightly smaller than average, and this explains why my helmet looks weird on me. I would like to wear a smaller helmet.

I have a couple of questions in this regard:

Are Women's helmets any smaller than men's?
If they are, would it be safe for me to wear one (assuming I can find a color I like!) ?
Are there in fact helmets for teenagers that might be useful in my situation?

I am slightly below average height and about 145 lbs.


texts: I have had this bike for a while, it was a gift to my mother from my grandfather. Neither of us have been able to find it online or anything. On the frame it says "Swift-20M Folding Bike Patanta. It was made in China and offers 6 speeds. If anyone knows what it is, can you tell me how much it is worth, if anything at all?


texts:
I got a set of aerobars for free and decided to install them on my hybrid.

1) I just tried them and feel a bit unstable. After checking it out online, I see this is normal, but I wonder if there is an optimal way to install them to reduce instability.

2) Does it make sense to install them on a hybrid? My hands do get numb during a long ride and I have always wanted to shift between positions.

3) While riding them, I feel more in control when my elbows are on my flat handlebars and thus not on the pads. Could this be because my seat isn't high enough (that's another problem altogether since my aluminum seatpost is corroded to my CrMo frame)?


texts: Is it worth buying a RFLKT+ or is the RFLKT good enough?

texts: Looking at Amazon, the Wahoo RFLKT is half the price of the Wahoo RFLKT+. What practical benefits would I actually miss out on if I just went with the Wahoo RFLKT? Any pros and cons of the two different models?


texts: Shimano chainring / crankset compatibility

texts:
I discovered a Shimano FC-2300 Crankset (175-mm 52/42/30T 8 Speed) for $62 on Amazon - is this compatible to replace my old FC 3301/3304?

The longer story is I need to replace my Shimano chain (CS-HG50) / middle chainring from an SG 52-42-30 set (and I expect rear cassette too?) after 5 yrs of a modest commute on my 8 speed flat bar bike.
Can anyone recommend an online seller of suitable replacement parts compatible with the Sora FC 3301/3304?  My local shop in Perth Australia proposes to sell me a new bike, but I'd rather repair to safe and functional level - I won't be winning any races on this unit:)
I'm new at the repair work and tho' I've got a chain tool, it appears I'll also need to get special tools (crank extractor?) to get at the chainrings?  Do I also need special tools for to replace the rear cartridge?
Thanks in advance,
Chris


texts: I have an old Sugino 110mm BCD ring set, can I replace low ring with SHIMANO FC-5650 chainring 34T?

texts:
I have a 48 tooth main ring with 165 cranks. FD is Sora double and rear is Tiagra short with Shimano 7 freewheel.  If I can put this 34 ring on it gives me sufficient range for the next few months and time to evaluate before any larger purchase of cranks. (likely I would go to 170 0r 172.5) I'm using Diacompe bar end friction shift.

Is it necessary or desirable to replace large ring as well?


texts: Chain skipping under increased pedal torque

texts:
I read the related post, but my situation is a bit different.  Additional background - I installed new 105 shifters and derailleurs two years ago (~5000 miles) along with chain and cassette.  I also had a 53T chain ring put on in 2013.  All was good.  Had slight hang-up with slack shifting (to higher gears) on rear cogs this spring, so I replaced the cable and sheaths to the rear derailleur.  All was good again.  The bearings in my freewheel started making noise last week.  Which brings me to the present.

I just replaced the rear wheel, cassette and chain on my 30-speed road bike.  The derailleurs shift perfectly and the chain travel when pedalling is smooth and quiet.  However when I stand up or dig in on a hill the chain will skip on the cassette.  It happens on all THREE chain rings in the front and the spectrum of cogs on the cassette.  I thought sure it was a stiff link in the chain, but could not find an issue with it when manually flexing each link.  I tweaked the rear derailleur to the point of shifting cogs in both directions and still have the issue.  Any suggestions?


texts: What's the difference between Shimano HG and SRAM XD free hubs?

texts:
I know that the Shimano free hub is pretty common. I think it's called HyperGlide (HG). But now I heard that SRAM has a free hub called XD. What is this? What is the difference? When do I need it? Can I replace a HG free hub with a XD free hub?
I also heard that Shimano introduced a free hub called Micro Spline. But this is only for 12-speed cassettes, right?
Last but not least, I heard of a free hub by SRAM called XDR. Is this a "better" and more "expensive" version of XD?
All in all it's very confusing. Sometime I see that some hub is compatible with this or that but I cannot find detailed information about the differences and the compatibilities between them.
In general, how do I know which of them fits on my hub? What are the benefits of each of them? Are they compatible?


texts:
I have to repair a Shimano STX shifter 7 speed (from a Raleigh MT200 bike from 1995). It has a broken spring, and I am almost sure that is the only thing to be repaired.

It is similar to that pictured in https://www.cs.hmc.edu/~geoff/deoredx/reductions/P2004.09.08-10.17.55-3814-labeled.02.html

I found a disassembly of the brifter ST-EF28-Left. In this figure, the broken spring would be "Coil spring", I guess.

I would be happy to get a minimally invasive solution.

Is there any chance of getting the replacement part? Where from?

Otherwise, I would get a new shifter/brake, only right side. I found several options. Can anyone let me know which is the order from lower end to higher end?

Acera SL-M310
ST-EF51
ST-EF28 (my spring is similar to the "Coil spring") here
SB-CT91
STX (from ebay, e.g.)
Some V-brake option (see Shimano integrated shifter/brake: Cantilever compatible with V-Brake?)
Some other 8 speed option (it is ok, as per links below).

Can you use a 8 speed Shimano shifter with a 7 speed cassette?

8 speed shifter with 7 speed cassette

Other useful links:

http://www.4bc.org/instruc/shimano/rapid_fire_shifter.html


texts: How should I install the front wheel of a Muddyfox Bike (UK)

texts:
This is my first bike ordered online and I don't have much experience in assembling. My problem is with the front wheel, which according to the assembly guide just fit into the fork.

However there are two nuts attached to the bolt which, as far as I understand can't be taken out and, the fork does not have enough space to "contain" both nuts.

Please see the images, on the left side the nut is between the bike and the fork but on the right side the nut and the fork are aligned so that the wheel moves no longer into the fork.

Any help?


texts: What's the difference between a Mongoose that has logo stamped on frame and a Mongoose with no stamp on it?


texts: Can I keep using my outer tube tyre with a hole in it

texts: I was riding down a nice smooth bike path the other day (at speed), and there was a branch full of thorns about 10m ahead of me, straddling the path. I couldn't have gone around it. One of the thorns pieced my tire, and pricked a hole in my inner tube - which slowly deflated. I will replace the inner tube - but is it worth me buying a new tire because of a 5mm hole from a thorn? Will this hole expose my inner tube too much? Thanks


texts: Is reversing the stem (pointing it backwards) a safe way to reduce reach length?

texts: Assuming a steerer/fork/brake/cable setup that does not rely on the stem facing forward: is it safe to point a stem backwards as a way to reduce seat-to-bar reach (i.e. as a way to 'fit' a too-large bike to a smaller/shorter person)? If not, why not?


texts:
my road bike got a puncture in the front wheel yesterday while I was riding down a big slope, it happened when I was braking the bike then I heard a pop. I stopped and replaced with a new tube, resumed riding, and another pop when I was down a small slope, I remember I braked a bit as well. Two punctures appeared to be near the valve.

I found a hole in the tire, could it be the cause of two consecutive punctures?

Also found that side of the wire has a lot wear

while the other side of the wire has no wear at all

I checked the rim and its tape, didn't find any obvious spike or anything.

Question 1: do I need to replace the tire?

Question 2: what causes the wear on one side of the tire?

update: just found out the second tube I replaced, is a 650/18-25c tube, my rim is 700...


texts: What's the generic name for this threaded/decorative "stem cap" on a Delta threadless steer tube extender

texts:
I picked up one of these Delta threadless stem risers / steer tube extenders so I could try out different handle bars heights on my gravel bike without going through a bunch of stems (since shops near me aren't open for a proper bike fit).

I got it used and really cheap, but it's missing the plastic threaded "stem cap" (see picture). It's not a functional stem cap, per se, as the stem cap bolt actually threads through down inside by the clamp. I guess it's really more of a dust cover, and it threads into the top of the unit instead of being held in place by a bolt. The guy I got it from said it's a generic part that should be easy to replace. But I can't really figure out what it's called so I can order one online. The manufacture has not been helpful thus far.
There's a good chance I'll replace this setup with a proper riser stem once I figure out where I want my bars, so I'm more asking out of curiosity than an immediate need.


texts: Am I using the crank extractor correctly?

texts:
I have this X-Tools crank extractor:

  X-Tools crank extractor tool for removing standard Square Taper and ISIS type cranks.

Here's the end that pushes against the crank:

Here's my crank: (it's threaded on the inside, but there's also threading on the narrower bit further in behind the square opening, which my crank extractor pushes against but does not engage with those inner threads...)

I screw in the crank extractor like so:

Then I put an allen key into the crank extractor and try to turn it clockwise, but it's just not budging:

The inner bit of the extractor seems to be pushing correctly against the crank. But do I have the right tools for the job? Am I going about this correctly? Do I perhaps just need more torque than I'm getting off the allen key?

Follow-up

Well, I left what I thought were "dust protectors" off after working on this. During a cycle, my pedal fell off the bike. Here's are a couple of photos for more info:

What I thought were just dust protectors, which keep the pedal screwed in:

View of the spindle after pedal fell off:

The pedal that came off:

Now I have to get the pedal on the drive-side off, and will follow up.


texts: Would a military helmet make a safe alternative to a bicycle helmet?

texts:
I am in need of a new bicycle helmet and have been exploring some alternative options. One possibility I am considering is visiting my local Army Surplus store and getting a helmet there. I only use my bike for commuting, 3-4 miles in a single trip, tops. So the weight or lack of ventilation won't be a problem for me. Additionally, having a helmet durable enough to not need replacing after a minor bump or contact with the ground seems appealing (and cost-effective).
Right now, I am thinking something along the lines of a vintage WWII helmet.

So my question is would this be a viable and safe option for me or do I need some sense slapped in to me? I figure if it's meant to deflect bullets or shrapnel, then it should work fine for a fall or if I get hit by a car.

Obviously, I'll have look into the legality of this for my state on my own. But I am wondering if anyone out there has any experience or advice for me on this topic.

Thanks.


texts:
I have a question about hub,

When should I grease my hub ? every 20000 km ?
How do I know it needs new grease ?
Because I can not see if the grease is dry or not...?

Thanks


texts: How do you bicycle the most efficiently on a road bicycle?

texts:
I assume this has been studied to no end for e.g. UCI governed bicycle racing, and probably by others as well.

Simply:

How do you ride the most efficiently, in the context of putting down power?

I'm ignoring aerodynamics and bicycle attributes here entirely. Assume a generic road bicycle on any road course. Before anyone screams that it depends on the road you're bicycling, let me just state that I'm looking for a generic answer that can be applied to any stretch of road. A set of simple guidelines, or "rule of thumb" for how to bicycle the most efficiently.

How do you distribute your power budget? Should the rider put down extra power when going uphill? On the level surface? When going downhill? I think I've seen riders often rest when going downhill, is this due to such a rule of thumb -- that this is considered to be optimal, or is it due to personal preference?

Surely there must be a sweet spot in the graph for any inclination -- where efficiency is given as a function of a few parameters, the inclination, the power put down, and the wind resistance? Something like that?

If this is indeed subjective, and cannot be answered on a general basis, then I accept that as an answer. The simple fact that there is no guidelines to be given and nothing to be said on the matter would at least give me some peace of mind.

Whenever I bicycle, I'm always questioning myself, if I'm doing it wrong in terms of how I put down power. If someone could point me to a study that explains how and when to put down power that would be great, or a study that explains why such a thing is impossible.


texts:
I'm a non-competitive cyclist that wants to try a few Cat-5 USAC races for fun; unfortunately, at 40+ years of age, I'm taking more than one natural OTC supplement to self-medicate.

Is there an easy way to tell which supplements are okay and which aren't?

I looked at the WADA List, but that list looks a bit intimidating to me.  I also took the effort to email USAC [1] and USADA directly and they said in their own words that the supplements I take are probably okay; however, some such supplements often contain extra bonus substances that might cause a positive on an anti-doping test.

[1] - Actually, USAC just told me to contact USADA.  USADA was the organization that actually "answered" my question.


texts:
I have decided to buy new wheels for this season. I'm currently riding the Bontrager Race Lite wheels that came with my bike, and now it's time to move to aero wheels to keep up. I'll do about 1300 km of racing this season (approx. 800 miles) where the longest is 540 km (approx. 335 miles), thus I will need good wheels.

I've looked at different wheel sets and considered price, quality and function. I think it has come down to these, but feel free to add anything you miss.

Zipp Firecrest 404/808
FFWD F4R/F6R
Mavic Cosmic Carbon
Mad Fiber

Although some of the wheels above is slightly too expensive, I think they are worth mentioning for the comparison.

So here are my questions:

For a good all round wheel, would you go for taller (>58mm), or lower (<40mm) rims?
Is the price difference from FFWD to Zipp or even Mad Fibre worth it in a TTT race over a long distance with an average pace of circa 35 km/h / 22 mph?
When spending this much on a set of wheels: Clincher, which I'm currently riding, or tubular?

Any advice would be appreciated, and personal experience would be highly regarded.

UPDATE: In the end, i bought Unaas CS-50.


texts:
Doing a London - Brighton run on Saturday morning, so far in the backpack I will have :

Spare inner tubes,
Jet pump,
Multi tool kit,
Tyre levers,
Gel bars,
Fluids,
Cash & Card incase,

Am I going over the top taking a spare chain? Do I need anything else?

By the way I'm doing this on a modified MTB
29" × 2.1 are now 700 × 38,
Grips are now more ergonomic with slight bar ends

So more towards a hybrid but with MTB gearing.


texts: Securing bikes while on a car hitch mount

texts:
I've recently come into ownership of two very nice bikes. I live in an okay area, so I haven't had to worry about bike security very often.

We do, however, often take our bikes to less than savory areas - we have a Thule T2 Pro and often stop for lunch ~wherever~.

What is the most reasonable way to secure our bikes from theft? I understand that no security is perfect. (If you see my profile, most of my rep is form Security.SE /humblebrag)

Presently we do this - this is assuming a worst case, run down terrible area, with a bike chop shop next door to where we park, etc etc.

1) Avoid parking in such areas.

2) Stay with the bikes if at all possible.

3) Bikes are attached to the Thule T2 Pro using the built in cable locks - it connects the front wheel and frame to the rack. The T2 Pro can be firmly attached to the trailer hitch using an expansion screw included in the design of the rack.

We are also considering adding the following:

1) A cable lock threaded through the seat, frame, and rear wheel, to complement the front cable.

2) Locking the bikes together using a flexible plate-link lock.

Neither of these are absurdly harder to implement, and avoid some, but not all, piece-meal theft.

EDIT: The T2 can be attached to the car in such a way that it can't be removed without the key, or spending some time 'hacking' the locking mechanism in one way or another. This post originally didn't say that and some comments will be confusing due to this.


texts: Compatibility of Shimano Ultegra and Sora components

texts: My road bike has an Ultegra groupset, but some parts need replacement (chainrings, chain, and cassette). The chain is worn out, the cassette is sliding with a new chain, and the chainset is also worn out. Can I keep my 3-9 derailleurs and mount new Ultegra chainrings with a Sora cassette (9) and a Sora chain to save some money, or should I keep riding and mount ultegra chainrings, chain, and cassette when they are fully worn out?


texts: Can I use a hardtail for MTB trail riding?

texts: So, I have a tight budget of 600 USD. Now, I just wanted to say that I live in a big city, but I do want to ride trails more often. My intended use with the bike is to ride trails, and perform techniques like bunny hopping, manual, etc in order to ride streets. But after researching, I found that trail bikes are usually full suspensions - much more expensive than my budget. Can I ride trails with hardtails (120mm forks) and whether I should build my own bike or buy new.


texts: Upgrading From a 9 Speed Sora Derailleur?

texts:
I bought a bike on Ebay which has a Sora groupset. The rear derailleur is noisy and jumps in and out of gears despite much tweaking. I've given up on it.

What derailleur can I buy that will work as a drop-in replace of the Sora derailleur without my having to also change the cassette or shifters?

The Sora is either medium or long cage - not sure which. It has approx 3.25 inches between jockey wheel centers.

Cassette has 32 teeth on largest ring.

EDIT: Just found someone else with the same problem. Mine sounds much the same as this: Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)

EDIT2: Motivated by your comments and after a bit of a clean and a bit more of a systematic re-indexing as per the video linked in the accepted answer (which I just changed below) the derailleur noise is in fact much improved. It's still not perfect but it's good enough.

TY!


texts:
I am going to build my own bike. I purchased the 105 5800 groupset the other day and was examining the different components.

The shifters came with some cables and cable housing. I have attached a pic of the cables and housing. As a newbie I can't tell what the cables and housing are for, ie are they both sufficient for the gears and brakes or do I need to purchase some extra? Can someone clarify for me please.

Much appreciated!


texts: Flickering light, Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus with SON hub-generator

texts:
Halfway through my third winter my Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus (powered by a SON hub-generator) headlight has suddenly started fluctuating, after I returned from Christmas holidays. While riding in the dark (and darkness lasts 20/24 hours here this time of the year), my light semi-regularly switches from bright to faint and back to bright. The faint light looks like the standlight, so very much less than the bright light. I ride in the dark around 5 hours/week during around 5 months, so with around less than 500 hours of dark riding, the LEDs should still be fine — or do LEDs degrade much more quickly in the cold (<-20°C)? My own hypothesis would be as mentioned on this forum:

  The flickering of the previous light could have been caused by
  adjusting the light when it has been firmly screwed down. This could
  cause the contact lip to turn in the housing and loose contact with
  the bulb. If this happens bend the lip forward again, and ease the
  mounting bolt a bit before readjusting

but I'm not sure if it applies to my model, I don't know what lip to bend forward and how. I've already firmly attached the plugs on the outside, but maybe something got loose on the inside. As I'm a bit afraid of starting to disassembling things I can't assemble again, I'd need some advice.

What can I open, firmly attach, adjust, etc. in an attempt to tighten all connections that need to be tight, and how do I do this?
What other problems may cause the observed behaviour, and how would I handle those?

(also posted at this Dutch forum)


texts: When does a Marathon Plus tire (not) need replacing?

texts:
I have Marathon Plus tires:

5 years old
15000 km
bike stored indoors

I'm getting more punctures than I used to, but maybe that's caused by my riding now on worse road surfaces than I used to. The punctures tend to be slow leaks from sharp grit (crushed stone which surfaces an unpaved path) embedding in the rear wheel.

Total weight (me and the bike and stuff) is about 200 lb, and the tires are always properly inflated.

Is it plausible that the tires are less puncture-resistant than they used to be, i.e. is it worth replacing them now if I want to avoid punctures? How can I tell? Is the fact that they still have tread (aren't worn smooth) proof that they're not worn significantly?

Schwalbe's web site says,

  Against 'time bombs' such as shards, flints and glass, only a thick rubber belt like Smart Guard will work.

Is it possible that the inner belt isn't working as well as it used to?

The tires are still very rideable but is it likely that they're now significantly less reliable than when new?

It's not nearly as visibly worn as shown on Schwalbe's 'Tyre Wear' page, which shows tyres that are "worn out" and "need replacing urgently", and which says,

  The tires of the Marathon family usually last between 6000 and 12000 km. ... The Marathon Plus is outstanding with its extremely high mileage of often much more than 10000 km.


texts: Shift lever and boss (mount point) compatibility matrix

texts:
I've looked online, but haven't found one. Is there any sort of "matrix" available that puts shift lever boss type on one axis and shift lever on the other, and remarks on each pair's compatibility?

Ideally, this would include bosses that include the following (and any others that might be useful): downtube braze on, downtube clamped on, barend "pods", "thumbie pods", stem-mounted.

Each type on each axis would be collapsed based on same-shape/same-size with some notes on which specific items fall into each type category.  So, something like this:

      Bosses:
             Shimano d/t "A"    Campagnolo d/t "A"    Paul Thumbies    ....
Levers:    ======================================================================
Shimano   |                   |                     |               |
  333     |                   |                     |               |
          |----------------------------------------------------------------------
Campagnolo|                   |                     |               |
SR "A"    |                   |                     |               |
          |----------------------------------------------------------------------
Simplex   |                   |                     |               |
   "A"    |                   |                     |               |
          |----------------------------------------------------------------------
   ...    | ...

Bosses:
Shimano d/t "A": PICTURE.  DESCRIPTION.   DIMENSIONS.  IDENTIFYING CHARACTERISTICS. ETC.
Campagnolo d/t "A": PICTURE.  DESCRIPTION.   DIMENSIONS.  IDENTIFYING CHARACTERISTICS. ETC.
...
Levers:
Simplex "A": etc. etc.
...


texts: Recovery from surgery, and want to race in November

texts:
I'm six months after a double ankle joint fusion surgery.  Both my surgeon and my physio have suggested cycling.  I have a wind trainer and have plinked my road bike on it and being working on my strength now for about four weeks.  I'm up to 35 minutes about fives times a week.  I am permitted to go onto the roads, but am still a little reluctant and am staying at home, inside, for the moment.  Plan to venture outside in the next week or so.

In November I would like to do the Source to Sea race in New Zealand--it's a 120 km road race.  I'm not too worried about racing, but I would like to complete it (it has a nine hour time limit).  I have never cycled that far, ever.
After five months on crutches, I'm not so fit, but I was a very active person doing swimming and rock climbing.  I'm 5'6", and about 125 pounds.
I was hoping for training tips and help.  Thanks in advance.


texts: What's the point of removing the excess oil after lubing the chain?

texts:
There is a very strong point in bike-mechanics culture, which I've seen in very competent answers here, too, to apply one drop of lube in every single roller of a clean chain, and then (!very important!) to remove as much as possible the excess lube with a dry cloth.

I am aware a "soaked in oil" chain is bad, because grime sticks to it, lube is wasted, the chain "irradiates" dirty oil around (over the bike, trousers, socks, etc.).

I am also aware there could be a "magical point" where the chain is already lubed but not soaked yet, and that perhaps happens when you don't put so much oil, so as when you "run" a thin string of oil over the slowly spinning chain, instead of dripping a (whole) drop of lube in every roller.

Finally, I'm aware too that oil outside the chain is pretty much useless, and the only part that MUST be lubed is unfortunately harder to reach - the inner surface of the inner-plate holes, where it spins around the chain pins.

So, the question is: "Is there anything really bad that happens to the drivetrain if you don't wipe excess lube immediately, or is it just a practical measure to make life easier (or something else)?"


texts:
this is the n-th time I have faced with this problem. The problem is than one flange of the rim is higher than another one. As you can see on the photo.

My rim is new this time, I have dynamo hub. Btw I faced with the same problem on simple hub not dynamo, so hub is not a problem. My hub is asymmetric, so one side should be tighten more than other one.
To be clear right side is where power connector is and left is opposite side.
I tried make equal dish between hub locknuts. And in general wheel is quite okay, laterally and radially true, but this issue.
Even if I have such result I still have to tighten right side as you can see on following photos, so If I do this right side flange will become even more higher than left.
I have some experience lacing wheels,so it is laced using 3-cross pattern correctly, but I have faced this problem several times, and don't know what is wrong. I mean I know that such result is because of one side is much tighten, but how to make correctly dished wheel and without such issue.
Also it is important to note that spokes are the same length, even wheel laced on the factory has spokes of the same length.
I can guess that if spoke on one side were shorter than on the other side everything would be okay, but by default wheel was laced using spokes of the same length.

Please help with this problem, how can I solve it, what is the reason of such result, maybe I should do something differntly ?

Thanks.


texts: Affordable trainers for winter conditioning

texts:
I've just bought a 2018 Specialized diverge with 30mm tires. I'd like to purchase an affordable and efficient trainer that won't cost me too many bananas. Any recommendations? I've perused amazon and there are some best sellers with decent reviews but I can't seem to see if they'll accommodate my tire size size.

Thanks in advance for your help!


texts: Is it ethical to use an abandoned bicycle in my parking garage?

texts:
I've recently moved to a new city and need a bicycle.
I noticed an unlocked bike covered in dirt with flat tires in my apartment's parking garage.  Would it be ethical to clean it up and use it for my commute?  I would leave it back  in the same place at the end of each day.


texts: How to get weight over the back under hard braking

texts:
I've just been doing some hill repeats and killing the boredom I got thinking, what is the best position to be in when braking hard (emergency stop, coming downhill etc.)? Obviously you want to keep the back wheel from lifting off the ground.

For example, I could lean over the handlebars (stupid but its illustrative) sit in the middle of the saddle, sit on the back of the saddle, or hang off the back beyond the saddle...

What is the most effective way to transfer weight on to the back wheel?

(On a road bike)


texts:
I'm looking for a good bike for college. I need to be able to go across paved roads, brick roads, cut across grass- and possibly jump down 5-6 stairs.

This video is from the school I plan to attend:

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My price range is $400-$600

Do I need a road bike? Dual sport? Mountain bike?


texts: Seal Cleat opening on Clipless Waterproof / Winter Cycling shoes?

texts:
I own some Shimano MW7 waterproof cycling shoes I use for wet riding and 45Nrth Wolvhammer boots for deep winter riding. Should I be concerned about water entering my shoe via the cleat opening?

If so, should I attempt to fill any gaps around the cleat holes to prevent water infiltration (especially from hiking through wet snow in the winter)? Or are these types of shoes typically sealed around the cleat opening from the manufacturer?


texts: Better to change rim or tyre size to get lower rolling resistance on trekking tyre?

texts:
Changed back tyre 700x35c (WTB ALLTERRAINasaurus) to 700x23c (Schwalbe Lugano) and front rim from 18 to 13 inner width (photo below), is it better to change rim or tyre size to get lower rolling resistance ?

One of changes made significant improvement (>20% shorter travel time), but not sure which one.

Pressure around max 500kPa front, 700kPa back (max. >8bars)


texts: What are these parts and how to remove them without a tool

texts: Are the two being symmetrical part circled in blue the following picture DU bushings ? How could I remove them without the appropriate tool ?


texts: Torpedo duomatic stuck in one gear because of too much grease. How to lubricate correctly?

texts:
I have a Speedo Duomatic that has been stuck in one gear the last 10 years. Probably because of too much lube in the wrong places. Now is the time to fix this. Everything is clean and I'm ready to put lube in the right places.

How should I lubricate to make sure it doesn't get stuck again?

I've planned to lubricate like this:

Brake flaps gets oil.
Brake drum gets a thin coating of grease.
Bearings and parts that spin on the axle get moderate amount of grease.

I suspect the small plastic ring with a metal pin on it should not be greased (even though it spins on the axle)?


texts: what is the correct chain size for my bike

texts:
I broke my chain and I am trying to find a new one to buy. I have tried looking though had no luck.

I have a 2014 giant boulder with 3 at the front and 8 at the back. So all I need is a size.


texts: What do I have to know, to replace my hydraulic disc brakes with new ones?

texts:
I want to buy a new hydraulic disc brake for my old mountain bike, which already has a disc brake. As I am very far away from any bicycle shop I want to buy the parts on the internet. The shipping costs will be high, so I don’t want to send anything back.

There are different standards to mount the brakes to the bike. Post mount and IS2000, and I have heard that post mount has different sizes/types, e.g. post mount 6 and 7.

Now what I want to know:

What do I have to check or measure to be sure, that the new brake fits my bicycle?
Which adapters do I need (depending on the size of the discs and the type of fixation of the calipers)? Especially, when the new brake has a different disc size than the former one?
Which screws? Are they standardized and fit on all bikes and brakes independent of bike and brake manufacturer?

I want to know this in general, because I also want to replace the brakes of a friend’s bike with hydraulic disc brakes too.


texts: Choosing a foldable 20" bike: Schwinn S2280 vs. Citizen Bike Miami

texts:
At the moment, I'm in the market for a foldable 20" bike, for commuting purposes. I've done my research, and have found two appealing models:

Schwinn S2280
Citizen Bike MIAMI

Which of them would you recommend? How are they different? Any differences in terms of weight, ease-of-use, ease-of-tuning, stability, accessories, size, portability, durability, joy-of-use/misery-of-use (it's for my dad)?


texts: what power did alex dowsett put out during his hour record?

texts: Alex Dowsett recently set a new world hour record of 52.937 kilometres, how much power did he have to produce for an hour to be able to achieve this feat?


texts:
I'm getting some tri-bars for Christmas and I've been told by the bike shop how to set them up on the bike, but I'd like to get some tips from lots of different people. Up-close photos would be great. I've got the straight type of bars.

Sorry, I should have specified a few more details. I'm particularly looking for details on arm rest positions (placement infront or behind of the handlebars and distance between each rest).


texts: What is the benefit of Shimano Click'R technology?

texts:
Im looking into making the switch from platforms to clip-less and just saw SPD pedals with "Click'R" technology ( Example ) Im not sure if its worth the extra money to buy that opposed to SPD pedals without the "Click'r" Technology.

Has anyone tried both?

What do you think?

This will also be my first ever pair of clip-less pedals so i prefer something beginner friendly which is what the "click'r" advertises

Just found this from the Shimano Website a great video Describing their Click'R Technology Youtube

Their Website also has a great Diagram

http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/technologies/clickr.php


texts:
Does anyone have any recommendations in favor/opposed to hydraulic disc brakes on a commuter bike? I'm considering building up a new commuter with discs but, as an old-school kinda person, I have no experience with anything other than rim brakes. Specifically, I'm interested in the commuting aspects of this. Is changing the rear or front tire any more difficult?

I don't like the idea of more complicated roadside repairs but I do like the idea of better stopping in wet weather.

Also, can anyone recommend a good disc brake for commuting?


texts:
first posting here. I bought a second hand Madone 4.5 which makes this weird popping/clicking noise on a few gears, here’s a video to better describe. This happens on my stand or while riding. I noticed that the noise might be from the bottom pulley trying to grab on the spokes...
What I’ve done so far:

Clean and lube the chain, pulleys, front and rear derailleurs.
Changed shifter cables to Dura ace with polymer.
Indexed and adjusted shifting.

Bike components:
It’s a 10 speed Madone 4.5 with an 11 speed cassette.

Shifter: ST-5603 Shimano 105

Rear derailleur: RD-6700 Shimano Uletgra

Cassette: CS-R7000 Shimano 105

Front derailleur: Shimano 105 FD-5700

Chain: HG CN-6701 Shimano Ultegra

Can anyone help me solve this problem? Thanks in advance for your help.


texts: How high should be the handle of a balance bike for a 35 inches tall kid?

texts:
How should I decide about handle adjustment?

Handle is adjustable upto 20 inches.


texts:
I have a GT Grade and I'm planning to swap out the drop bar for something with a smaller reach. It's really easy to find the specs of the replacement bars, but harder to find the drop, reach, and width of the current bar.
The description from GT is this (no measurements): All-New GT DropTune Super Light, double butted 6061 alloy, 16° flare
So, looking for to see if anyone knows how to find the exact measurements.
Thanks.


texts: Struggling with bottom bracket installation

texts:
This is the first bike build I've attempted, so far the process has been pretty difficult but I'm especially struggling with the Bottom Bracket installation.

Firstly, I have a frame with a threaded BB shell, so I bought a threaded bottom bracket, like this one: Threaded Borrom Bracket. This went horribly though, I wasn't sure what to expect in terms of force when screwing it in, I think I ended up with it misaligned and forced it, destroying the threads on my new frame in the process...

To work around that, I bought a BB that doesn't engage with the threads on the frame but threads together instead. Here it is: Bottom bracket number 2.

I have 2x 16 notch tools I can use for installation (1 to hold the other side) but I can't even get it in the shell all the way.

Do I need something to press it in, or is this just a case of my second bottom bracket being not suitable for a frame with a threaded shell?

Any help with this would be appreciated, despite a lot of niggly issues and incorrect part selection on my part, I'm quite enjoying the whole process.

Here's an extra picture of the empty shell which is threaded (well, crossthreaded now...)

Each side of the BB is fitted with a silver notched cup, that I can remove. If I take this off, the BB does fit into the shell and I can thread it into the other half. I just can't seem to get it tight enough to stop the BB from spinning in the shell.

I also noticed that when I full tighten the BB, the square pegs won't spin anymore.

Thanks!

ADDITIONAL INFO

As requested in the comments, here is a close up of the original threaded bottom bracket I purchased originally (Link at the top) and a picture of the side of the shell that it won't screw into. It looks very neatly cross threaded to me, I was really angry at myself for doing that...

** Hopefully the final edit **

So I've managed to screw in the Tange BB, it actually went in 99% of the way by hand very easily. I tightened it with reasonable force at the end using a Torque wrench but I didn't want to over do it. I notice the non-drive side I can still see 1 thread but it doesn't seem to want to go in any further easily. The drive side is all the way in and flush to the shell. Does this look correct and as expected? I consulted a few video guides from ParkTool but not much was mentioned on expected "flushness" of the cup on that side.

Here are some pictures:

Drive side:

Non-drive:


texts:
what type of ride should I choose? I own kross k10 bike. Currently I am doing 7.7 km lap with combination of slow-fast-slow (40%-20%-40%) of total path.

Am I doing it correct?


texts:
I have a specialized pitch, unsure of the year, and my rear wheel was stolen.

I have the front wheel which had the marking "ETRTO 584x25c" on it

What does this mean and what sizes of wheels would fit?


texts: There are 3 of us with recumbent Terra trikes and need to purchase a trailer or rack to hold them. There are a lot of different trails in Florida and we want to ride them. The trikes don't fold. So how can we do it without taking 2 or 3 cars.


texts: What size nut does it take to fit the rear wheel with a nexus Shimano rear axle? I measured the axle size and I'm getting 9.2mm. or .360 in.


texts: What can I do to be sure I'm getting a fair deal when buying a used bike?

texts: I've been looking at used bikes but I'm worried that I will get taken advantage of because I don't know a lot about bikes. Are there key questions or things I should look for when shopping for a used bike?


texts: How should I angle my foot throughout a pedal stroke?

texts: When I say "angle my foot," I mean in relation to the ground. Is it best to keep your foot level throughout the stroke? Should I point my toes downward or upward at any point? I'm wondering what's best for power transfer, and for your feet and ankles.


texts: Would it be best to take it off first then soak it in soap, or should I use petrol to get the grease off first?


texts: Removing an internal headset before pulling the fork?

texts:
I'm completely taking apart a 2014 Kona UTE (for fun, and to clean it, but nothing wrong with it). I'm not sure how to proceed with the fork. It is now "bare" (no wheel, no cable, no handle, no handlebar, nothing), but does not come loose.

The headset is listed (non-officially, but recent models have "FSA N0.10" as well) as being "TH ZST No.10". I believe the full reference is "FSA No.10 Semi Integrated Internal Headset 1-1/8Inches 8.2mm Top Cone ZS44, XTE1600". I'm not familiar with internal headset, so I've looked around:

The service doc says nothing about how to install / uninstall it,
Some site says that it's "just" supposed to come loose,

Pull fork from bike. It may be necessary to use mallet and tap top of steering column driving fork downward. Once fork is driven down as little as 25mm (one inch), lift fork back up and remove center cone from adjusting race. Remove fork.

Some other site says that I'm supposed to remove the cartridge, like so:

But, as of now, the fork does not move, not even one millimeter (I mean, it can spin, but I can't move it up or down).
Am I suppose to force with a mallet gently, or is there something else that needs to be removed before trying to have the fork come loose?
EDIT: some other solutions are suggested here, like "whack[ing] the steerer from the side a couple time", or "a tiny little flat bladed screwdriver in the gap, and carefully pry one edge up". Also, this post gives the terminology quite clearly.
Update: I give up. I've tried many different techniques, and the fork never moved. Since it is not damaged and work properly, I give up, and just leave it like it is.


texts: Does anyone know what make and model this bike is? Production year?

texts: I found this bike while cleaning up a foreclosed home. I liked it and saved it from others taking it to the recycling center. Does anyone know what make, model and possibly year that it is?


texts:
I have an aluminium frame.

The top tube has become slightly scratched or pitted (by something hard, presumably, I don't know what; maybe while it was parked).

Does it need maintenance (e.g. does the paint job need fixing, will it corrode/weaken without), and if so what?


texts: I have a 2014 Apollo Evade mountain bike that I have upgraded to ride on the roads for long journeys and commute. This bike now runs like a dream pretty fast for a bike that cost me £120 new plus £30 each for tyres (schwalbe city) and £50 each for lighter sports wheels. I roughly ride about 150 miles a week on average and have completed about 10k miles in 2 years. everyone I have spoken to suggest I should now upgrade to a road bike as it is more suited to my journeys but other than being lighter and quicker, what other advantages are there to me spending 5 times the amount that I have spent on my current bike? And I can cover 20 miles in 1 hour 10 mins on a MTB. And because of my good health and fitness I don't even feel tyred (ha ha) afterwards for riding something that quoted to be slow heavy and supposed to be used on mountains. What do you think is the best option stick with my MTB or go for a massive upgrade to a quality road bike? Please advise.


texts: From the perspective of a cyclist, what is a common way to hydrate throughout the day?

texts:
A couple of nights ago, I went for a ride. My destination was only about 4 miles away from my house, and it was a downhill journey. Of course, I had to ride back up many hills to get back home, and didn't stay at my destination very long. The total journey was 8 miles. My bicycle is also a single-speed bicycle, so I didn't don't have the luxury of gears which resulted in a challenging ride.
Anyway, I woke up with a headache and nausea the next morning; this was about a week ago. According to the posts I've have read regarding headaches after cycling, I've come to the conclusion that I must be severely dehydrated because I'm still feeling the symptoms today, just not as much.
I'm just not very disciplined when it comes to sufficiently fuelling my body. I really want to take steps to prevent this kind of issue from happening again. I used to drink 4 litres of a water per day, but the regular trips toilet gave me the impression I was overdoing things when trying to consume 4L in a couple of hours, and so, I got into the habit of drinking when I felt like it which resulted in me drinking much less than 2L per day.
I'd really appreciate some input. Drinking water should be a straight-forward process, but regularly taking small sips like many people have suggested has never worked for me; I end up not drinking as much as I should for my weight of 175lbs/12.5 stone.
I should add that I'm probably in a calorie deficit due to eating 2 small meals per day rather than my usual 3-4 medium to large meals per day. I experienced this issue in the past (many years ago) after weight training (squats and dead lifts) on an empty stomach. A bottle of Lucozade and lying down for a couple of minutes fixed the issue. However, I'm sure many other factors were at play e.g. breathing technique and so one because I trained on an empty stomach years after that and it never happened again.
If the issue has nothing to do with dehydration, then it could be something to do with me not eating enough.
Main question:

What is a common way to hydrate throughout the day at home, but also prior to/after a ride?

I have some additional questions:

After becoming dehydrated, would it be best to rehydrate with water, or use some special kind of energy drink?

Does repeated trips to the toilet when I consume water throughout the day mean I'm hydrating myself incorrectly? I definitely don't have a weak bladder.

Should I be including the water I use in food, i.e. oats, as part of my daily water intake measure, or should I only be measuring water I drink directly?

EDIT

This was in London
I consume very little salt. For example, breakfast consists of oats (made with water), crushed almonds, and fruit. The second meal I've been having is eggs, yams or potatoes and various vegetables. Very bland indeed, and definitely lacking salt from what I can see.
I've been riding regularly since December 2019, and prior to this, although I drive, I used to ride a lot. This is my first single-speed/fixed gear bike though. All of my previous bikes had gears, and riding up hills was easy, however, it's a totally different experience with a single-speed bike. It's much more work, especially with my gear ratio.
At the start of 2020 I was about 187lbs/13.5 stone, but the change of diet and reduced weight training caused me to lose a lot of weight. I wouldn't say my diet is a ketogenic diet though, but I'm starting to believe undereating was the cause of it. I had 4 meals yesterday, a lot of water, fruit and a glass of juice and the nausea and headache have gone. Looks like I really need to pay close attention to my diet.
I've been lifting weights a long time and I'd say I'm quite fit. Even when I take time off training, it doesn't take me long to get back in shape, and although the ride up the hills was challenging because I didn't really pace myself, I wasn't knocked out. I recovered quite fast, but the headache and nausea the next day concerned me.


texts: I'm fairly new to San Francisco. I've taken up biking the last few months while I have been here, and I want to do a variety of rides around the city.  I am having no trouble making up my own, but I have been unable to find a good resource that has routes already mapped out.  If anyone has any websites they can point me to, that would be very helpful.


texts:
I've recently bought a Viva Pista 3 single speed bicycle, after getting my previous bike stolen. It's a really nice ride and very good for road rides. It's my pride and joy.

However, it's not something I want to lock up outside a shop; it's probably going to get stolen if I leave it out of my sight. I have a pretty decent lock (Kryptonite D-lock with cable flex) and the bicycle is properly insured. However, I still wouldn't like to lose it.

Really, what I want is a very cheap, mechanically simple bike under £100/$150. Ideally it'd be single speed, have MTB tires and have a pretty upright posture. Basically, a bike that if it disappeared would be cheap to replace and I have no emotional attachment to.

Does anyone have any recommendations?


texts: Front chainring spacing difference between Shimano and Campagnolo?

texts:
I want to upgrade my mid 80s road bike from a 50 tooth to a 53. But the BCD of the big triple chainring is some rare standard that it costs less to buy a whole (used) crank instead. And of course this saves some weight ;)
Currently the crank is a Sugino with Shimano Deore derailleurs and 105 indexed toptube shifters. I know that this will get me a 'empty spot' in my shifters. I now did get some really good deal on a Campagnolo Veloce 53/39 crank. Is this compatible with the Shimano tech? Thanks in advance.


texts:
I bought a new Voodoo Bizango 2015 6 weeks ago. When I was out earlier I changed down and the chain somehow got wedged between the 2 front chainrings (It's 2x10) and bent the inner ring. I've read on here that this just shouldn't happen unless the chainring was a bit dodgy.

Do you folks think Halfords will cover the part or should I just bite the bullet and get a new chainset? I went into Halfords earlier but have to book the bike in for next week....i'm not very patient :)

Alternatively, I've been trying to find a replacement chainring. How compatible are these? The chainset is SR Suntour CW-XCM-D 22/36T. I'd prefer to go this route so I can buy a couple of them in case it happens again. I can't find the Suntour chainring but there's plenty of Shimano 22T 64BCD online, I'm just not 100% if they will be correct for the bike.

Here's the badness


texts:
Fairly straightforward question the answer to which I presume depends upon ride distance, terrain, bike type, and bag weight, but I'm hoping there's a rule of thumb that generally applies to all scenarios.

This question dawned on me as I was mounting a Citi Bike last night:

Should I keep my messenger bag (weighing about 15 lbs.) strapped to my back, or should I secure it in the "protective rack" attached to the handlebars?

My thinking at the time: The bag would fit perfectly, but it would weigh down the front of the bike and make it more difficult to steer.

I opted to keep the bag strapped to my back, but this decision was based on 100% conjecture. I have little to no experience riding with belongings in a handlebar basket. On the other hand, I very often ride with a heavy messenger bag. It's habit at this point, and maybe a bad one.

The ride proved uneventful, though I can report that it isn't exactly easy riding the incline of the Williamsburg Bridge while wearing a full messenger bag on a 45 lbs Citi Bike. Would the ride have been any easier if I had put my bag in the handlebar basket?


texts: Gears reversed (17) after replacing back tire. Why?

texts:
Gears reversed (1<->7) on the back disk after replacing back tire. Why?
Here are pictures starting with 2nd gear then going to 6th but the shift is actually reversed:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HDqZ5JPDCYPpNmTG9
Not an expert BTW.


texts: Cracking/Creaking noise when pedalling hard or standing on a pedal

texts:
So my 1 month old bike started making a creaking/cracking noise when I pedal hard or stand on a pedal. For example if I only pedal hard on one side and just let the other side spin its fine but as soon as i paddle with both sides it creaks on every stroke.
Since I'm short on tools I've only tried new pedals, taking of the cranks and put them back on with grease, took the chain of and just stood on one pedal then switched to the other one and the noise still appeared. Took out of seat post and checked every bolt/axle/quick release on the bike except the BB. It seems to be a sealed shimano cartridge so is there a way to "fix" it, do I buy a new one since while I'm already at it or can it be something else?
It´s a Fuji Nevada 1.9 29 2021

From what I can tell its threaded, looks similar to this one:


texts: Clear glasses without "ghost" double images?

texts:
I've been looking for a good pair of glasses for low-light or nighttime cycling.  I've tried a few pairs but all have the same issue: a "ghost" double image of any bright lights.  It can be a bit disorienting. It seems to be due to some sort of internal reflection.

I've tried the Oakley Fast Jacket and Smith Pivlock V2, and the clear and orange lenses that go with both have the same issue.  Are there any glasses that don't have this problem?


texts: Bearing cone and locknut won’t tighten. Easily fall off when taking wheel off. Has it snapped?

texts:
Recently I noticed a ball bearing had almost fallen out of the hub so I took the wheel off to find out what’s wrong and the cone that covers the bearings just fell off the wheel! Not the one but both. I took a closer look and noticed there was another piece inside that the QR goes through, but that was loose as well and it almost fell out of place when I touched it. So i’ve put everything back in place and put the wheel back on my bike and left it alone.

Can anyone tell me if it has snapped or what’s wrong with it?


texts:
This is my first time replacing the brake pads of hydraulic brakes.
I removed the old ones and the model was Shimano B01S Resin, so I bought the same ones.
However, when I have replaced them. They don’t fit into the calipers... well they fit but there is no space for the disc between the pads.
I have drained the brakes completely and nothing...
Does anyone has an idea about that?

Thanks in advance. I have attached some pics about the issue.


texts: Bike saddle position for mountain biking/jumping?

texts: A few times a week I go cycling with friends, we usually go to off-road places with jumps. I was wondering if having the saddle further backwards or forwards would affect performance?


texts:
I recently had my bike destroyed by a car. I love cycling, and since I'm no longer a research fellow, I'm considering replacing it with a bike with great longevity (N.B. I know that until a process is perfected for constructing self-healing, Adamantium bike frames, no bike is guaranteed to survive a collision with a car). I've owned several aluminum- and steel-framed bikes in the past, and liked them all (although aluminum Canondale and GT frames had fairly thin, oversized tubes and once or twice got dinged on university bike racks, and the steel bikes slowly succumbed to rust in the rain/snow/salt of winter).

For these reasons, I've long held titanium frames in high regard, because I've heard anecdotally that a good titanium bike can last the longest with minimal care (i.e. it is strong and resists corrosion); however, I recently read about stainless steel frames (e.g. KVA and Reynolds 953), which are very strong and corrosion resistant (although I've heard conflicting accounts as to whether stainless is as corrosion resistant as titanium).

Which is the frame material with greatest longevity-- stainless steel or titanium? I've learned that in addition, there are other stainless steel frame types such as the nascent Reynolds 921 (Also, do you know the manufacturer with greatest longevity? I've read that the longevity of the frame not only depends on the material, but depends even more so on the quality of construction, and it's almost certainly better to have a good aluminum bike than a titanium bike held together by gum.) And if stainless is the best, is there a recommendation between KVA and Reynolds options? I found a couple of nice tables comparing physical properties online, but wanted to ask because such tables does not quantify corrosion resistance or the average tube thickness used for that material or the difficulty working with the material (which can manifest itself in greater likelihood of imperfections and later cracks), or any other je ne sais quoi that a bike expert like you can recommend.

Thanks for any help you can offer, and hope all is well with you and your bike.


texts: What tips do you have for making temporary "get me home" repairs?

texts:
I do some mountain biking in remote parts of wales. I usually carry a minimal tool kit: pump, spare inner tube, and multi tool.

I'm wondering if you have any temporary 'get me home' repair tips I might need one day for when something breaks?


texts: Finding Geometry Information for Vintage Frames

texts: I'm thinking about buying a vintage ('80s or '90s) frame for a 650b conversion. In my dreams I'm hoping to find a big frame (60+ cm) with long chain stays that was built for center pull or side pull brakes. I figure this means I want to go looking for old geometry charts and/or catalogs. I know about some sites, such as Vintage Trek and The Headbadge (although I can't find much geometry information there) – are there others?


texts:
I'm having trouble understanding SRAM road component compatibility "map" as they call it, specifically the cassette and rear derailleur part.

For example, the PG-1130 cassette has no black box marker for the 11-28 size. What exactly does that mean? How can specific casette sizes be incompatible with ANY derailleur size (neither medium nor short)?

In my specific case, I'm upgrading to eTap and since I have a spare new PG-1130 11-28 cassette with PC-1130 chain, I was going to use that, but now after checking the chart it does not make any sense to me. Anyone could explain this?


texts: Hydraulic disc brake - lever slowly touches bar

texts: I have a magura disc brake. When I pull the lever and keep applying constant pressure to it, it slowly retracts all the way to touch the bar. This process takes about 10 / 15 seconds. I have tried to bleed several times, even did a gravity bleed, and nothing seems to change. I installed the lever brand new, and the caliper did not have this problem with the previous lever. There is no signs of oil leak. Anyone has seen this before?


texts: Why not have the gears inside the bottom bracket?

texts:
Looking into an IGH it seems the biggest disadvantage is having a huge amount of rotating mass. I've seen one handmade bike where the IGH sits above the bracket, inside a carbon fibre shroud around the place some bikes have rear suspension. There are two chains, one driving the IGH and another to drive the rear wheel.

Why not have an internally geared bottom bracket where the cranks drive the input shaft and the crank ring rotates at a ratio selectable by the gear lever?

Then the rear wheel could have a single drive wheel driven by a chain or belt and a lightweight hub just solid enough to mount the spokes and disc. Then you could have mud-free gearing while reducing rotating mass even below what you have with a conventional cassette... and given that you have thrown out the bottom bracket the overall weight gain would be less.

Quite a job for the home builder to adapt an existing hub I guess but it should be possible.


texts: Does anyone know of a list of city roads with bad pavement ( NYC )

texts:
Is there a list/site out there that contains roads and pavement conditions?

I ride a road bike and some NYC roads are really beaten up, while some maintain reasonably smooth pavement. It would be awesome to have a list of these and to know what to take/avoid.

Failing that, are there any resources in NYC that will tell me where construction is scheduled or happening? At least I could avoid those areas.


texts: How much do you need to concentrate when using rollers?

texts: I'm consider getting bicycle rollers for use over winter, and I expect after the initial newness has worn off it might become boring. Can I realistically watch a DVD while using rollers? Or do they take too much concentration, and I should look at getting something like a fluid trainer instead?


texts: Which tube will fit a -(700 x 25c) wheel?

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BF got a fancy new bike, and promptly punctured the inner tube, I’ve been looking in shops for the right size and getting in a right faff trying to find the right size.

His wheel says on it -(700 x 25c)

I know it’s a Presta Valve, and has to be 700, but I’m confused on the 25.

Does the inner tube have to be 700x25c, or would a 700 x 18-23c fit?

There’s a 700 x 35-38c which I’m sure is way too big, but I’m also concerned that the 18-23c is too small?

Does the inner tube specs have to end in 25? Or include 25 in the numbers? Like say 18-28 would? (Just random numbers)

Many thanks for any help


texts:
I recently received a Tubus rack that I am happy with.
In the instructions there is a wide rear light with a double point attachment.
I want one of those big lights - can someone tell me of one?

see light in this


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I've ordered some second-hand handlebars from one seller on eBay, and brake levers from a different seller. Both claim to be 22.2mm diameter but the clip on the levers (as photographed) will be a very tight fit if it will fit at all.

Am I right in thinking that the clip as photographed doesn't come apart into any other pieces?

The levers do say 22.2, I can't find any markings on the bars. Am I right in thinking that 22.2mm bars and 22.2mm levers go together?

Figure 1. Clip is flush with end of handlebar

Figure 2. Clip raised slightly from end of handlebar


texts: diference between 170mm 172mm 175mm crank arm length on road bike

texts: What is best for which use, advantage, or application, especially for climbing.


texts: Do shops that sell used bikes normally also sell used parts?

texts:
Background

I'd like to buy some used bike parts.

I don't want to shop online. I'm not very good at bike repair. I want to ask the seller if the part is the right shape and size to fit my bike. If they say "no", then I'll know not to waste my money and time buying it and trying to install it. If they say "yes", and it turns out not to fit, then I can get a refund without paying for return shipping.

I know that I can definitely buy used parts from a bike co-op. In fact, because co-ops disassemble so many bikes, they tend to have a better selection of used parts than most bricks-and-mortar vendors.

But I live in the suburbs. I'd rather not schlep downtown to get to a co-op.

There are two different individuals in my neighborhood who fix bikes in their backyards and sell them out in front of their homes. Perhaps they'll have the parts I need. But perhaps not.

Another possible alternative for me would be to go to a local bike shop.

My question

What's the general rule? Do bike shops that sell used bicycles normally also sell used parts?