texts: Zero-gap stem (FSA Afterburner) inverted installation

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My question is somewhat related to this one.
I apologize in advance for such a long question! And thanks to everyone who manages to get to the end.
I've bought an FSA Afterburner 12° stem. On the picture in the product description, and in their Stem Installation Instructions the stem is depicted with a negative rise (-12°).
The instructions for installing the faceplate are:

Apply FSA Dynamic Installation Compound on handlebar clamp area. Insert handlebar between stem body ① and face plate ③.
Apply grease to faceplate bolts. Alternately tighten TOP stem bolts until there is no gap between faceplate and stem body. Torque to 60 kgf.cm / 6 Nm / 53 in.lbs.
Alternately tighten bottom stem bolts to 60 kgf.cm / 6 Nm / 53 in.lbs.

The product description mentions:

You have the
option to run this stem at a + or – 12 degrees to suite your racing style.

I plan to install it with a positive rise (+12°). If I just flip the stem over and follow the instructions to the letter, tightening the TOP bolts first, I will have no gap on top, and a gap on the bottom (where it says "No Gap" on the stem body). This seems like a wrong thing to do.
Here are some pictures:

Inspecting the stem body and the faceplate, I see that the stem's front part is symmetrical, it's only the faceplate that determines where the "No Gap" side will be (the side that has the "crossbar", top on this photo).
I see these solutions:

Flip the faceplate upside down, follow the instructions: TOP bolts first. The "No Gap" area on the stem will be the side that actually has the gap. Note: Somehow this "feels" to me like the right answer, however see note for option #2.

Follow the instructions "upside down": BOTTOM bolts first. Seems like violating the instructions, unless we assume that the instructions only refer to negative rise installation.
Note: There are two FSA logos on the faceplate - one normal and one upside down. FSA doing this makes sense if the stem was designed to be flipped together with the faceplate, however it is unnecessary if the stem is flipped and then the faceplate is flipped back. This makes me think option #2 is what the manufacturer intended, however this could also be just a design feature.

Follow the advice of the online bike shop that sold me the stem:

I like that you check the instructions very well, don't take them too seriously. Just install the faceplate, that the gap is almost the same at the top and bottom.

Personally, I'm guessing that options #1 and #2 are both acceptable, with #1 being possibly mechanically better, and option #3 is wrong due to reasons presented here.
P.S. I know it's a different product, but Easton Top Lock instructions contain this:

For positive and negative rise setup, top of faceplate should always be touching, bottom of faceplate should always have gap (Fig. 2).

Note how they point out the E logo being always in the right orientation, unlike FSA, which has one out of two logos always right side up. I just wish FSA would be as careful as Easton when creating instructions.
Bonus question:
The instructions say to use grease on the faceplate bolts (no mention of grease for the steerer fixing bolts). All the bolts have a white coating which I guess is a pre-applied thread locking compound. In my experience, when using liquid thread lockers (e.g. LocTite 243), we should avoid oil or grease. Is pre-applied thread locker different from liquid one, making it reasonable to grease such bolts? The bike shop told me "Don't use grease for the bolts". What are your opinions?


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A long time ago, when I was younger and stupider, I decided to fix my creaking crank arm by welding the bolt. Yes, I know it was so damn stupid, but I thought that was the problem. I didn't use the bike and welding the bolt didn't even fix my problem. So now I need to fix my bike, but I have no idea how to take off that pedal. I thought of cutting the whole arm off on the bottom bracket with a grinder, but I actually have no idea if that would work. I don't really care if I need to replace the bottom bracket, I just want to know if it would come off without many problems. I know that I will need to buy a new crank arm, because the one I have currently is almost broken.

TL; DR Any suggestions on how to remove a crank arm that has the bolt welded and can't be taken off with a normal tool?

EDIT
I'm adding pictures to help you understand what I got myself into


texts: How to exchange a seat stray on a 2013 Cube AMS 150 Super HPC Race carbon bike?

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The derailleur was torn apart so I ordered new seat stays and have to exchange (one of them).

I'm not sure how to do it, there are some bearings fastened by screws where hex-wrenches seem to fit on both sides but I am a bit afraid to use brute force and possibly break something.

This is what it looks like:
https://goo.gl/photos/Cq8kWhYF8ES3ouBEA

Shall I just try to unscrew that pulling the hex wrenches into opposite directions or I need some special tools?


texts: What is the name of the hex screw that holds the brake cable

texts: The opening in the hex screw that holds the rear brake cable has become much looser than it used to be. What is the name of the part so I can order another one? (Hopefully they have some made of harder steel.)


texts: Help altering old Marin MTB to an In-town pavement cruiser?

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I have an old Marin Bobcat Trail MTB with 26" wheels. I want to make a road bike out of it, and don't want to spend a bunch of money. I just want to be able to go fast and coast for awhile, so I don't have to crunch around on my Talus 29er.

I'm also ~230lbs and 6'6". I used to blow tires like crazy on that bike. Am I going to be struggling with that same issue with the tiny road tires??

I'd love to post pictures of the transformation. I just need pointers on how to RE-USE what I have on the bike, minus buying new a wheelset.

Thanks all!


texts: MTB Shimano MT610 crankset with 32t: possible switch to 30t?

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I'm looking at the Raven 8.7 with its Shimano MT610 crankset with 32 teeth. The bike comes equipped with Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed cassette and Shimano Deore XT M8100, 12-speed rear derailleur. I would need a more favourable ratio for the climbs so I'm trying to make sure the original 32t chainring can be swapped with the 30t version.
Here's the manufacturer's page (https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/slx-m7100/FC-MT610.html).

How can I be sure I'll be able to swap the 32t chainring with a 30t one?


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I have a second hand frame circa 2014 that measures about 74mm across at BB.

I'm fitting an Ultegra crankset.

Shimano states I need a BB94-41 for a shell width of 86mm ?????

Am I reading this wrong? how can a BB86 fit in a frame width of 74mm.

Im confused


texts: Wheelbuilding spoke tension vs lateral truing

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I am using rim that is not bent, i screw each spoke nipples at equal distance from point when spoke thread is covered by nipple until spokes are tense.
i get perfectly laterally true wheel, however tension on some spokes comes out different than others some are around 30 kgf (300 N) more.
Why this happens?
When i start to set similar tension for each spoke rim goes out of lateral true and then i spend hours trying to true it while keeping every spoke tension equal which never works out because there's still individual spokes that that needs to be ~20 kgf (200 N) more tense than others in order to have rim laterally true, what's wrong here?
P.S. I am not worried about radial truing because rim is double wall it never gets bent radially.


texts: What substance do they use to grease bottom bracket, crank, pedal bolts etc?

texts: When watching bike assembly videos I wonder what substance do they use to grease carving of bottom bracket, fork, crank, pedals etc? Here is video and screenshot example:


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My freewheel that I have installed myself only 1.5 years ago has totally worn out by the moment and so I just had it replaced along with a chain at the workshop. I'm still concerned though about the previous one's extremely short lifespan and thus suspicious about my current setup as well.

It's 7 gears freewheel on a folding bike (no front derailleur), and the problem is that it's feels very smooth on 4th gear. When you switch on higher gear up to the 7th, you start to feel some strange vibration as you pedal, which, I suppose, may indicate that the chain is not properly aligned and will wear the cogs out quickly.

Am I just being paranoid? Apart from that, everything seems fine now - gear switching is smooth and under load they don't switch lower with a distinctive noise, as before with my old freewheel. Should I try to play with cable's tension to get rid of that vibration on the higher gears as I use them more often than lower ones?

Thanks.


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I bought a new threaded headset for my old steel winter beater bike, but it is slightly different from the current one and I am not sure about the correct order and orientation of the parts. I placed the bottommost one on the left.

Is this the correct order?


texts: Changing the entire chain gear mechanism

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I have a Lapierre shaper 100.

I am looking to change my entire chain mechanism as some of these parts need to be changed. I have selected my components, and I am hoping you can tell me if these parts will be compatible.

Shimano Claris FC-2403 crankset
Shimano CS-HG51 8-speed cassette
Shimano Claris RD-2400 GS rear derailleur
Shimano CN-HG71 chain
Shimano Claris FD-2403 B front derailleur

I would really appreciate your thoughts


texts: Can I use WD40 and generic bicycle oil to maintain my MTB drivetrain?

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For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. This is for a somewhat cheap MTB that sees everyday use for commuting.

What oil? I don't even know, and I don't believe it comes with any specifications. It is the absolutely cheapest I could find on eBay, it costs less than 1 USD including shipping, for 50 ml.

Is there any problem with doing this? If so, what is the problem? It seems to work great for me, contrary to what seems to be popular belief and advice found in professional (or not so professional, I have no idea who actually knows what they're talking about) maintenance videos?

The steps outlined e.g. here

             are incredibly elaborate, they involve among other things, using a modified pair of nailbrushes to sandwich the chain, just to make sure that it gets cleaned properly. It also stresses how important it is to degrease it first. It also mentioned how you must use hot soapy water to clean it. It also suggests using aerosol lube before applying the actual chain lubrication. It is mentioned how you should use grease, and is this the shot where he painstakingly applies it to each link of the chain, by hand? Finally, it says it is not essential (which means, it is a really good idea to do it, you just don't have to) to dismantle your drivechain every time you want to clean it. I don't do any of these things, at all.

I use a worn brush and just rather carelessly scrub a bit at it, removing obviously large chunks and lager pieces of debris. Then soak it in WD40, wipe it off with a rag, use copious amounts of the cheap oil and then off the excess again. I've never had any issues. This is also where it gets to way below zero, there is a lot of salt on the road, often a lot of rain. The bicycle is stored indoors most of the time.

This MTB has some cheap Shimano parts, Shimano M190 31.8, Shimano M191 42-34-24 CG, Shimano CS-HG30-8 11-32, and the chain is a KMC Z72.

Trying to improve my own knowledge about bicycles, particularly in care and maintenance, seems to quickly make me run into a wall of enthusiasts that are just on a completely different level. It is rather demotivating. If there is indeed something wrong with what I do, it would be nice to know exactly what the problem is, and what I can realistically do to improve it. Because, doing what is suggested in that video, I think, is completely unrealistic to almost everyone except enthusiasts.


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I have a Trek T-900 tandem that I bought used.  It's probably about 12 or 13 years old.

I'm having some rear hub issues with it, but I can't identify what hub it is.  Trek's website and other searches just say "Alloy Hub".  I don't even know for sure if the spacing is 145mm or not.

I'd like to identify the hub, because it needs a new cone.  If that's not possible, I'd like to verify the spacing (I don't have calipers) so I can have a new wheel built.


texts: Campy 11 speed and Shimano compatibility

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Two part question.

Is it possible to run Chorus, Record or Super Record 11 speed disc mechanical brake/shifters with Ultegra R8000 11 speed derailleurs?

I can use either campy or Shimano wheels and cassettes.

Are Campy brake levers going to work with Ultegra disk brake?

Thank you.


texts: Difference between road pedals and MTB pedals

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I am interested in buying some pedals I can clip into for my bike. I currently ride a mountain bike/hybrid but I ma looking to get a road bike next year some time.

What are the differences between road pedals and mountain bike pedals? Are road pedals suitable for my hybrid/MTB if I am only riding on roads?


texts: I have a bike that I use for getting from place to place. The only problem is, the chain periodically slips off the gears and gets stuck between the frame and the rear wheel gears. Almost like my bike thinks there's one more gear there. It's pretty scary when it happens in an intersection because it locks my pedals. Any advice on how to fix it?


texts: How can I offer a test ride while selling a bike?

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I am selling a bike to someone I don't know from Craigslist. I expect that the prospective purchaser will want to test ride the bike before making the purchase.

How can I prevent  them from riding away with my bike during a test ride?


texts: How to replace a Sturmey Archer's cable?

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I would like to replace the cable of a Sturmey Archer hub, but can't find a way to disassemble the old cable without destroying it, and it puzzles me how to insert the new cable.

To better explain, I have five elements:

The cable
The cable tip 1 (top)
The cable tip 2 (bottom)
The adjusting part (for the lack of the proper term, I'm refering to the cylindric piece that screws into the hub's cable)
The housing of the cable

I haven't found a way to remove the cable (1) because tip 1 and 2 (2, 3) are attached to the cable, and the adjusting part (4) also is attached and doesn't pass through tip 2 (3). The housing is also too small for the rest to pass through.

I wouldn't mind keeping the current cable, but would really like to know how to replace it.

Here's a photo to document this:

Another one showing the "adjusting part":


texts:
The company I work for provides cycle racks for cyclists in a semi underground carpark that is open at one side. Several cycles have been stolen from this area and one colleage was attacked by a bike thief who he surprised. Another was threatened on another occasion.
The company refuses to install a gated caged area or secure entrance to the car park, does the company have a duty to provide a safe parking area?


texts: How to determine what kind of front derailleur can be used on my recumbent trike?

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I need to replace the front derailleur on my tadpole trike. Unfortunately, I cannot find a brand name or other numbers anywhere on the derailleur, so I cannot just replace it with an identical product. When looking at new items, they have many numbers and measurements which I do not understand, so I do not know whether I will be buying one that fits.

It has three gears.
The back derailleur is an 8-gear Shimano Deore.
I use MicroSHIFT shifters.
The other bike parts appear to be in metric.
The post that the derailleur clamps onto measures 28 mm in diameter.

What details do I need to look for to know that a replacement will be the right size for this bike?


texts: What is the minimum carb intake to not bonk (but also not put on weight)?

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Going on long bike rides (or otherwise doing any form of endurance workout) can result in "hitting the wall" or "bonking".
The well-known solution is to be mindful of one's carb intake.
But very many folks go on long bike rides (or other endurance workouts) precisely for this reason: to force their bodies to break down fat.
Can someone who is not trying to lose fat (and who really doesn't want to lose weight) take some inspiration from those folks and avoid hitting the wall? Surely they do not practice carb loading (before), gel supplements (during), and glycogen replenishment (after) a ride.
Why is it interesting (and important) to know—even for those who are not trying to lose weight, or who actively do not wish to lose weight? Because it is easy to overdo the starch intake, and so knowing what one should do at a minimum to avoid bonking will also stand as a useful limit. In other words, the cyclist can then "do this" and also take some extra carbs, rather than simply indulge in carbs "to be on the safe side".
It is clear that by erring on this minimum one will be taking the risk of losing fat, but then it appears that even the most athletic still have fat.
I hope an answer is known
without
using
supplements, by using only what grows on trees or is raised in farms, rather than what comes out of a chemistry lab or a factory.
Two options are possible:

Conceivably, the answer may be "it cannot be done," or: taking inspiration from those who succeed in losing fat means that one must also take a risk, and routinely suffer from bonking.
Earlier this summer, with gyms closed, I bonked on two occasions right after picking up road biking, but this was a fluke. My "glycogen stores" were pathetically low. They may have now improved enough that I need not worry about bonking.

Epilogue
To appreciate just how difficult it is to get this right, read the comments under this answer.
In retrospect, the question I wanted to ask (too late now!) is: What is the minimum carb intake that will be certain to neither: 1- make me bonk, nor 2- "cannibalize" my muscles. When initially asking the question, I expected a simple continuum. Imagine a line with zones A, followed by B, followed by C. The diet in zone A ensures no bonking (that's easy: eat lots of carbs. Drawback: it'll also be too easy to put on weight). The diet in zone C makes the rider lose fat (as many questions here show, that's hard). The surprise is that even identifying just zone B—the objective of this question (no bonk, no targetting of fat) is hard. Oh well!
And if all this is not tough enough to understand, I don't actually mind losing fat, but since my BMI is quite healthy, I suspect my body will end up rebuilding these fat reserves again. The next question in this sequel is then: does one's liver get exhausted from so much work (metabolize fat cells, rebuild fat cells, repeat) ? If you understand enough about all this, feel free to formulate that question as a proper question.


texts: What is Speed Lockout on a SUNTOUR fork?

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Looking at entry level SR SunTour suspension forks, there are the options of

"MLO" - mechanical lockout
"HLO" - hydraulic lockout
"RL" - remote lockout

Now, mechanical and hydraulic lockout is clear. Remote lockout - not so much - it says that it is engaged from the handlebars, not from the fork itself.

My forks says XCR 011 Series mg. On the side of the knob is written "Speed lockout". I am able to lock the fork while compressed, but if I do it uncompressed, there is some small damping still, which is very nice.

How do I know what is this "Speed lockout" thing, without disassembling the fork.

Note that I have been unable to identify the exact model of the fork.


texts: Stop Kickstand on Plate Shifting into Crank Arm

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I just installed this kickstand on a bicycle with a kickstand plate. The kickstand plate has raised edges at the sides, but the mounting part of the kickstand is a bit smaller. As a result, the kickstand can shift slightly in relation to the centerline of the bike. When it shifts out, the crank arm hits the kickstand while I pedal:

Is there some way to fix the angle of the kickstand mount, either using some kind of shim or just cranking down really hard on the mounting bolt? Or should I get a different kickstand?

The bike has an aluminium frame.


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I'm considering getting some toe grips or straps for my bike.

What are the benefits of these over normal pedals?


texts: Which freewheel remover tool to use on vintage Columbia bike?

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I picked up what looks to be a late 80's Columbia 'USA Racing' Women's city bike on Craigslist recently. It needs a new 5 speed freewheel, but I can't seem to figure out which remover tool to use.

The freewheel center has 12 slots, and is 22-23mm in diameter (best guess is 22.25mm). I happen to have the FR-1.2 and FR-5 and both don't fit (too big).

Also, can anyone suggest a decent freewheel for this bike for around $15? Thanks!


texts: What parts do I need to change to convert from flat handle bar to drop bar?

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I am thinking about getting a drop bar for my Merida Speeder 200 (2015). But I am told that I need to change some other parts as well.

My bike has V type brakes, 3 speed front derailleur and a 9 speed Tiagra read derailleur.

Which shifter-brake lever(I mean road bike type shifter) is compatible with my bike I don't know. Also do I need a modification on brake system? Do I need to change any other parts? Most importantly, what would the cost be?

Can you help me?


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I am asking this question as I ride a dutch bike (chain guard, mud flaps etc) so my chain is not directly impacted by salt on the roads. However, seeing that there is a lot of water splashing with a lot of salt in it, I was wondering the following:
- Many experts have mentioned that cleaning the chain and lubricating it is advisable. Is it the same with bikes with full chain guards? While I assume the frequency would be less for a bike with a chain guard vs a bike with no chain guard, what is advisable as my chain is not visible.
- What about the wheels (rims and spokes and hubs)? Are those part of the cleaning too...and do you put grease on every nut and bolt on the bike...does it not stick to your clothes when you ride or get on/off the bike?
- I bike to work (about 20k a day RT) so the general advice is to sponge off daily using a sponge and a bucket of warm water...is this to be done for the entire bike or just the sensitive areas (hubs, what else?)

My first year riding so these may be novice questions.

Appreciate your advice in advance,

Sal, Toronto, Canada


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My chain broke so I decided I'd fix it.
Don't have a tool to take apart the chain so I tried hammer and a nail over a wrench to no avail. Messed up the chain pretty bad too.

Is there such a chain where these are welded? I smashed this thing with a hammer as hard as I could right in the center with a nail and it didn't even so much as budge.

Also I think my chain is a power link if that makes a difference

I will get a dedicated tool but I'm just baffled at that.

Do I get a new chain or just sever a couple links and get replacement pin?


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Can you tell me what the name of this frame is?
The handle is Philips.


texts: I have an old mountain bike and want to change to a Pashley style girlie bike. I use my bike to go to the shops, pop to places and go out and about with my dog running along side.  I find the seating position of my old bike very uncomfortable in all areas.  My concern is, Pashley style bikes only have a max of 7 gears and I currently have 21 gears, of which I only use maybe 4.  My speedo shows that I cruise between 5 - 15 mph on my old bike but I'm concerned how fast I can go on a bike with only 7 gears.  Is there any way of roughly working this out as I've not found a shop that will let you ride a bike at full speed before you buy it.  Thanks in advance, Sarah


texts: Nexus 3 Speed Hub Up Steeper Hills Turns Weird

texts: I have a Linus Roadster Sport that has a Nexus 3 speed hub on it. It shifts gears just fine but I noticed recently that when I have it in first gear to go up a somewhat steep hill, the pedals turn very freely like it's turning something inside of the hub, but that isn't transferring to my back wheel to be able to power myself up the hill. Similar situation with my driveway. Pedal up and then I pretty much have to get off the bike and walk it up because my pedals just spin in place while the hub makes a unique sound.


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I'm contemplating about getting an electric assist MTB but as much as I can see all (or at least majority) of e-bikes are equipped with 1x transmission.

Is there a reason why there are no e-bikes with more than 1x drive-train?


texts: Should I leave bolts in frame when I've removed component (mudguards for example)

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I've just remove my mudguards from my Ti frame and as usual I have put the bolts back into the frame where the thread goes into a tube - for example in the chain-stay bridge and brake bridge.
I used anti-seize on the threads and did not do them up tight.

Should I be doing this?

I do it because it looks a bit neater and I suppose to stop water getting int but I thought that maybe I am just risking ruining my frame if the bolt gets stuck in there.

Thanks


texts: I've recently saw that a bmx frame was hydroformed.Is it better than not hydroformed?


texts: Only regular wrench key for wheel mount like this?

texts: With the wheel mounting system like on the photos (sorry for poor quality - this is the best my phone can do) - is my only option to dismount a wheel is to use a wrench? Wheels: CUBE RA 0.8 CX. On the left side it seems that there's a visible thread but I'm not sure what is it for. The ride side shows the end of the axle so I guess nothing to do there.


texts: Smartphone mount: stem mounted vs top tube

texts: For those of you that have tried these, I'm wondering if the stem (or even bar) mount is preferrable over the top tube mount? Seems like having the top tube mount means you have to look further back (and down) to glance at the screen.


texts: I've been riding my bike for about a year and a half now and the back spokes are starting to snap, 2 now. I want to know when was this bike bought from the original owner since the spokes are stock spokes and it is second hand, it would be easy to know. All I do is just wheelies and bunny hops so maybe it might wear off more faster. Also, should I replace the spokes asap?


texts: Cyclometer interference from car detection loops?

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I've noticed several times lately when stopping at an intersection with a car detection loop that my wireless cyclometer (an Atom 4.0) exhibits some strange behavior. It continues to think I'm moving (as indicated by a triangle icon), the distance increases (by a tenth of a mile every few seconds), the average speed goes up rapidly (in accordance with the distance increase), but the current speed appears stuck at whatever the last real reading was, and the maximum speed is unaffected.

I suspect it's to do with the car detection loops in the pavement, since the only other electronic things on my bike are lights, and I've seen this with them off. Is this how interference might present itself in the cyclometer? Are the loops indeed a probable source? Can I try to shield something to avoid it?


texts: Is it possible to predict when roads will have less traffic?

texts: I'm planning a two day trip down the UK country roads. I'd like to time and plan my route so that I'll have a pleasant ride. Is it possible to tell which days of the week would see the least traffic? I'll be cycling from dawn till late afternoon on both days.


texts: How do I differentiate the many varieties of brake/shifter cables?

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I am fixing several old road bikes (all with stem shifters) and I have noticed an abundance of different types of brake/shifter cables. One set of cables that purchased I had to file down to make them fit

I need to buy some cables/housing/ferules in bulk, as well as some brake levers.

How do I differentiate the many varieties of brake/shifter cables, as well as the appropriate types of housings so I can purchase the right equipment to fix these old bikes?


texts: Does this wear pattern on my shorts indicate an issue with my position on my road bike?

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My last three pairs of bib shorts have all worn out in exactly the same place (see picture). The latest pair started wearing after about 5 rides. I average about 100 miles a week. Do you think my position is off? I feel like my sit bones are in the right place on the saddle when I'm riding and I don't have any discomfort. I've had a bike fit. The shorts are all high quality (at least expensive) Specialized and Pearl Izumi.

Bike: 2013 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert Compact
Saddle: Body Geometry Toupé RBX Comp

Here is a picture of the saddle and the clamp from above. I'm holding a level to show how the clamp extends past the saddle. I think that is what is causing the wear.


texts:
There are many sources describing how to wash your bike but all of them are for people who live outside town with a nice garden and a lot of space. Provably most of people live in small flats in a city block making it impossible to use these guides.

How can I wash a bike properly without going outside and having really small space?


texts: I’m attempting to remove a freehub and have removed the locknut and washer on the non-drive side. However, the cone/cone nut doesn’t seem to want to come off. Is this nut supposed to unscrew from the axle, or is it supposed to pull straight off? Do I need a vise, or am I making this more complicated than it needs to be?


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I recently started to have a problem where the chain randomly goes from the large front gear to the smaller one.

Ive been trying to work out the reason for this and would like some input on the more likely culprit:

The front derailleur is somehow slipping. in order for it to stay in the position for the large gear there is quite a bit of tension on it. (Its a 105 shimano if it makes any difference)
My front cassette is worn out AND i noticed that the chain angles towards the left as it comes off the front cassette so it naturally wants to slip down to the smaller gear.


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I have a pair of the MEC Roubaix tights, and noticed they don't have any padding.  Not a big deal for short rides, but...

Are you supposed to wear [spandex] shorts (with padding) underneath?
I went for a roadie group ride, and noticed they were all wearing tights (much thinner material), but under the spandex shorts.


texts:
I have recently purchased a Specialized Roubaix SL4 Elite Disc carbon frame bicycle - But I am not particularly happy with the colour. It is charcoal and white. I like to have a brighter colour.
Is there a way to repaint a carbon frame or at least change the white pin stripe to a bright green.
Thank you for your kind contribution.


texts: Extra screw after removing front wheel (plus enclosed hub brakes)

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My partners bike, a Pashley Princess Sovereign, had a flat front tyre, and whilst I was out a friend came to have a look. He removed the front wheel (detaching the brake, a fully enclosed brake hub), and afterwards had a spare part left over, an eye bolt, pictured below

Would anyone know where this is likely to come from? If it shouldn't have come from the Pashley then it is possible that it was from another bike and had been there a while.


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I am running a tiagra compact 50/34t front with a sora 12/32t rear,

I am still finding the long steep hills a problem, is there a alternative available without going tripple. IE lower front chain rings.


texts: First Hand Ride Comparison Vittoria Corsa G2.0 vs. Continental Grand Prix 5000 Clinchers 700X28

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I currently ride Continental Grand Prix 5000 clincher tires (i.e. inner tube and not tubular) and felt a noticeable improvement in ride quality between that and my previous Bontrager R3s.
I am curious if anyone else here has ridden the GP5000s along with the Vittoria Corsa G2.0 and can provide pros and cons based on first hand experiences vs. product marketing or theoretical comparisons. I plan to run them with an inner tube, but even a like for like on tubeless to tubeless would work too.
The main concerns I have are:

Dry Traction

Wet weather performance - I have not had any issues with the GP 5000, but I always felt a bit weird that there were no treads down the middle of the tire. I know in reading people say that treads are just a like a placebo like effect as the compound is what makes the difference, but one thing I am liking about the Vittoria is the treads down all of the tire. This is why I really would like to get some feedback from someone who may have ridden both.

Puncture Resistance - I am not super worried about this as I try to be pretty careful on the road short of swerving into traffic to protect a tire, but I figure I would include this in case anyone else is curious.

Rolling Resistance & Feel - I know when I first went to the GP5000 everything felt smoother and I was about 2-3% faster for the same perceived effort from the R3s. What if any performance or qualitative benefits have folks felt that have ridden both.


texts:
My workplace is 18 kms ( 11 miles ) away from home. I am planning to commute to and from every workday, 5 days a week.

My stats -

6'1" (185 cms )
82 kgs (180 lb )

I generally average around 22 km/h while going and coming (13 mi/hr). The commute takes about 50 mins, I am in the  zone for 30-35 mins.

I am able to follow this routine, but worry that I am overdoing it. I feel that I am loosing muscle mass.

So far, I do no weight / strength training. Eat a normal and healthy 3 course.

Can anyone please give me idea about -

Diet regiment. ( I really hope suppliments can be avoided.)
Body weight exercises if any is required. I hope I can avoid the gym.

The aim that I am able to achieve is to keep continue cycling with this routine hopefully generally around 15mph ( 25 kmph )


texts: Minor hamstring pull, can I keep going at easy pace?

texts:
I'm 53 and for the past year have been pushing it slightly.  Have always been careful to not push it too hard, but yesterday I got a mild pull in my right hamstring.  Just a slight soreness right behind the knee.

Can I keep riding, 5-10 miles a day, at an easier pace without worsening it, or should I stop riding until I can't feel it?


texts:
I'm a 65-year-old male. And I have osteoarthritis in both my knee joints.

I've Fuji Absolute 1.9D bike and I use it every day for one hour for my morning exercise.

I don’t use it to go places.

When riding on a level road, what is the best gear combination for me ?

2:6 (front gear 2 and back gear 6)

or

3:8

Why?
Will 3:8 combination, harm my knee joints?

As you know, 3:8 combination increases the tension and reduces the speed while 2:6 combination does the reverse.

Thank you for your help.


texts:
I'm not sure if they're all like this, but my u-lock is a bit loose between the two pieces, the U and the bar. The provided mount snaps very very tightly onto the U, leaving the bar to fend for itself, so when I ride, any little bump makes the lock rattle. I believe the main source of the noise is the loose (non-locking) interface between U and bar; it's metal-on-metal there.

It's pretty obnoxious (and I feel like anyone I pass by must think my bike is broken), so if I have a bag I toss the lock in there instead. Sometimes that's not an option though, so I'd really love to stop the rattle while it's in the mount.

I believe it's one of these:

I expect that the little rubber rings are supposed to push up against the bar, and keep things held in place, but mine is loose enough that the right side wiggles around plenty.


texts: How to tell if a bike is good before purchasing?

texts:
Say there's no sales person in a bike shop and you are just looking for bikes.

The criteria would be a good bike to ride to work on side-walks(paved or smooth) and the occasional off-road on the weekends. Female user, small budget, but the bike should have a kickstand, a good seat, lights and a bell.

What are the things to look for before purchasing?

(In Norway, bikes aren't too cheap but the buyer doesn't feel comfortable buying the cheapest)


texts: What are the hazards and risks if I keep using a worn rear tyre?

texts:
I found similar questions:

What are the risks of fenders/mudguards?
What are the risks of untrued wheels?

But I haven't found a structured analysis on the subject of tyres.
Stack exchange technicalities: It is the rear tyres on two bikes in my family that seem to be a concern, so I kept my question specific to rear tyres. But please feel free to edit the title and question if you feel that provides a better balance of things like keeping the question specific vs effort required to provide a clear answer. I just don't know if it's better to deal with just the rear by itself or both wheels together to make this question useful.
Logic: Ideally I would love a structured answer, perhaps based on this article about hazards vs risks. Naturally there may be other ways to approach this.
The hazards that come to my mind are:

Loss of grip in a bend/obstruction avoidance
Braking performance - this is probably fairly gradual until the tyre punctures?
Puncturing - the resistance can probably be measured, with some graphs based on some standard puncturing object vs tread depth?

How the hazards translate to risks then probably depends on several factors, like the sort of riding you do, what mode of failure is developing on the tyre (cracks vs thinning) etc. You could probably write a books about this, right?
Clearly if I'm already pushing my tyres to their limits in bends/braking etc. then the tyres need to be it tip-top condition. I don't think I ever get anywhere near these limits, but I guess I am conscious about emergency braking in commuting on roads.
Do countries have government rules for bike tyre safety, like the MOT rules for cars in the UK? I'm not asking about the annual testing and certification, I'm on about the minimum standards of roadworthiness.
I really thought that this subject has been dealt with on this site or elsewhere, but I couldn't find anything complete/clear/structured.
It if matters, the reason I'm asking is I am a bit of a pessimist (perhaps a primary characteristic), and therefore both a cheapskate and safety-conscious, which I would argue are both secondary characteristics on one hand, but clearly conflicting on the other. Safety and frugal are valid tags on this site, pessimism isn't:-)


texts: Have some new parts on hand but need new frame - frame swap reasonable? or sell and purchase new bike?

texts:
Purchased my first "decent" bike, a Motobecane 700HT about 5-6 years ago as a 'gateway drug' of sorts for myself to get into XC biking. Ended up using it for commuting for a few years as well.

Over time have upgraded both front and rear discs with Avid BB7 (160/180mm) and tried to keep everything clean and well serviced. Frame got beat up a bit commuting (locking to outside bike racks) but just cosmetic. Bike still runs pretty well, shifts great - front gears can be a little slow but that might just be typical Deore derailleur (I have XT in the back and still run like new). Front fork (Dart 2) lockout is broken and I think the rebound is starting to get sluggish. I've replaced several other minor components over time as well.

I currently have on hand:

A brand new Rockshox Reba RL 120mm TAPERED 15mm Maxle lite (steer tube has been cut down just a little bit, should still be plenty long, but affects resale)
A brand new Mavic Crossride Disc wheelset (15/12mm through axle)

These are of course, utterly useless to me right now. I actually did try to mount the Reba fork to my bike using a specially designed headset from Cane Creek and while the fork "fits", it just barely rubs on the inside of my headtube. No dice.

So my question: Would I be better off liquidating everything I currently own and purchasing a new bike, or would it be a reasonable endeavor to port my current parts to a new frame (waiting for a good deal online)? I am not sure how 'compatible' my entire parts list are for modern frames and considering age whether I would be better off starting from scratch. For consideration, I am confident in my ability to swap components over myself, so I won't be having to tack on cost of LBS to do it for me.

I found a local that is selling Dartmoor Primal frames sub $200, which sounds like it might be a winner for me - being 650b or 26er compatible I like the idea of upgrading to 27.5 wheels as a down the road upgrade. I expect to have to purchase some new minor components to handle this swap - probably new bottom bracket (? I am fairly unfamiliar to the different specs on BBs) and seatpost - not sure if frame comes with headset but I'll assume I'll need a tapered headset as well as all new cable. Is this reasoning sound? Or are there likely more parts that will need to be changed?


texts: Bike trainer skewer does not fully seat into depth of mounting cup, is that an issue?

texts:
I bought a used trainer and it came with a trainer skewer. I don't know if it's the original from the trainer.
I've put in the trainer skewer and have mounted my bike to the trainer.
However, I noticed that the skewer ends don't go all the way into the cup at the mounting points. It's most noticeable on the side with the quick release.

You'll notice that the cup even has cut outs on both sides for the quick release lever, but the qr stem end is only half way in.
Should I be concerned? I've done a couple of training sessions and the bike was totally stable.


texts:
Specifically when changing gears from middle chain ring to smallest, the chain will sometimes get 'sucked' up between the inner chainring and chain stay. It seems to happen more often in muddy conditions. I keep my drive train clean and lube my chain often.

I bought the bike new and maybe 1200-1500 miles on the original chain/derailers.
I have swapped out the original (aluminum) inner chainring with a new steel chainring and still get chain suck.


texts: Is 2kg static cross-load dangerous for a carbon frame?

texts:
The bicycle is a carbon fiber cross-country machine. It is from a local manufacturer, not a well known one.
Compared to other CF bikes but for more aggressive riding, when I knock on the tubes it feels that the wall thickness is half of the others! Nevertheless, it handles it's purpose well.
I am contemplating is it safe to add a triangle bag with a multitool, tube, oil, rag. <TODO: I have the bag, just equip it and weigh it> <TODO: add picture> Intended application: cross country with rock gardens and drops below one meter. My worry is that the bag is going to load the top tube radially. And the end strap is at the middle of the tube where it's certainly weakest.


texts: I am trying to remove the rust from inside my steel frame. There are, however, a few small holes in various places along the frame. Any tips on how I can make these water tight so that I can fill it with vaporust and leave it overnight?


texts: Training fasted: just about weight loss?

texts:
Preparing for a 100mile ride in August I was thinking of following a training plan which came in a "Sportive Guide" given away with Cycling Plus magazine this month.

Some of the days on the plan mention training for an hour before breakfast in order to burn fat.

Is this just about losing weight? (If so, I'm pretty sure I don't need to since I'm 6ft tall and weigh about 67kg) Or is there some reason that training before breakfast is somehow better?


texts: What belt-drive compatible frame and belt-drive kit would you recommend?

texts:
I would like to build a custom belt-drive bike for my daily commute. I am looking for a frame and a belt-drive kit for a total budget of about 500$.

I ride all year long, and winters here (Montreal, Canada) are pretty hard on bikes, so I need a simple yet robust frame. Any suggestions?


texts: BB height when change 29er wheel to 27.5 wheel

texts:
I have a 29er frame Specialized Camber Expert Carbon EVO with 330mm BB height with 120mm 29er fork

How much with the BB height be altered if I change to 650b wheels and 27.5 140mm fork?

EDIT

The fork length in 29er is 531mm from crown to axle, and the new 27.5 fork is 527.7mm

@Argenti Apparatus says that 19mm will drop with the rim 27.5, and the image says that with the new fork I will drop from 330 to 328.8mm

This mean that my new bb height with custom configuration will be 330mm - 19mm - 1.2mm? 309.8mm in total. This is low or very low? My loss will be 0.795 inch.

NOTE: all features in the part green in image is actual configuration

NOTE 2: about sag described for @mattnz ¿How this can help?


texts: Is there a complete list of all Shimano bicycle components?

texts: You can search for specific components on si.shimano.com, velobase has a huge database of Shimano components, but it's far from being complete. Is there a definitive list of all Shimano components ever?


texts: What are the reasons for using a cradle with a handlebar mounted drybag?

texts: I am talking about things like the cradles that Salsa and Revelate make. The most obvious reason seems to be to keep the drybag away from cable and cable housings. However, on my particular bicycle, I have wide handlebars (Nitto Albatross) with full cable housing, and it doesn't seem like that's an issue for me. I've done test rides with a drybag strapped directly to my bars, and it seems fine. However,  before I head off on a tour, I'm wondering if there any other reasons I would want a cradle that I'm not thinking of.


texts: I've been told by various sources that WD40 is bad for your chain so have avoided using it. I've seen people using GT85 on their chains but I'm not really sure how the two products differ. So my question is, should GT85 be used on your chain? Or, does it have the same damaging effects as WD40?


texts: Sidewall repeatedly splitting in same place on rim

texts:
Good afternoon, folks. Wondering if anyone has had this or a similar issue:
I blew a tire a few weeks back and replaced the tube and tire after thoroughly inspecting the rim for damage. After a few rides the air in my tire let go while sitting in my living room. The sidewall had spread open and I assumed it was faulty rubber. I've since replaced the tire twice and each time, after a few rides, the sidewall splits at the same place on the rim. I've inspected the rim and there seems to be no visible damage but it's starting to get expensive to troubleshoot. Below is a picture of similar damage to illustrate (not my tire but same result)
Thanks for any input!


texts: Servicing/fixing an Ultegra bar end shifter

texts:
After almost 15 years of flawless service my 8 speed Ultegra bar end shifter has suddenly stopped working.

With the wire detached from the derailleur so there's no tension in it the lever now only moves through 5 clicks.

If I switch it into friction mode the lever seems to be limited to a smaller sweep of motion than the left hand lever. I think they used to move to about the same extent.

Is there anything I can try to get the lever working again? Anything to look for that might explain the symptoms?


texts: Does fitting mudguards / fenders improve aerodynamics?

texts:
Since the tops of the wheels are moving at twice the speed of the bike, you would think that covering them up would make quite a bit of difference to the drag coefficient, particularly the front wheel.

Or is it more complicated than that?


texts: What to do when a snake is in front of you?

texts:
I was coming out of a corner and saw something on the road about 10 meters up but only from about 5 meters I realised it's a snake trying to cross the path.

I panicked but didn't really do anything. Fortunately, it crossed the past quick enough, I just ended up so annoyed/scared.

What's the best action in that situation? Accelerate as hard as you can, while trying to avoid it? Or aim for it? I was too afraid that if I stopped it might chase me.


texts: What is this valve and how do I fill it?

texts:
This is the valve in one of the tubes on my bike:

What kind of valve is this, and how do I fill it?

I originally thought it was a Presta valve, but it doesn't look or work like any of the presta valves I see in instruction videos online. Those presta valves do not have the nut in the middle like on my valve. The nut screws off, but when I do, air immediately starts leaking out and the tube quickly empties. This is in contrast with the presta valves where the inner part can be loosened but still don't leak air unless you press it down with the pump.

I have a Bontrager Charger floor pump which is supposed to fit both Schrader and Presta, but it does not clamp on to this valve at all while the nut is on, and I cannot fill the valve while the nut is off because in that state the air just leaks back out before I have the chance to screw the nut back on. Here is a picture of the pump head:


texts:
Here's my drive-side crank arm, from the inside of the chainrings:

First off, those are not chain ring bolts, they are rivets, argh :)

It looks like the crank arm is fixed to the middle of the three chainrings, with the plastic spread out.

If I drill out these rivets to fit on new chainrings, can this crank arm be even re-used? Or is it fixed-on to the middle chainring for good?

My objective is to replace the chainraings, but maybe I'll end up replacing the full crankset.

I can't drill the rivets now and see, because I need the bike every day.


texts:
I'm thinking of buying a second hand Shimano FC-TY30.

However, looking at the photo there seems to be either worn or chipped teeth on the second ring1.

Are they actually broken/chipped, or is that by design, for changing gear? Even though I'm not an expert on gear technology, they don't seem even spaced, if they are intentional.

1 At about 9 o'clock, at five teeth clockwise to around 10 o'clock, at half past two and at about 4 o'clock.


texts: Is there a do-it-yourself way to tow a kid's bike?

texts:
We drop our kid at school in the mornings, and I'd like to bike over to pick her up after school.  I've picked her up on our tandem (that's one reason I got the tandem), but she'd like to ride her own bike some of the time.

So I need a way to take her bike with me, something like this, I guess:

...except I don't need to be able to support the weight of the kid on the bike, I only need to be able to tow a riderless bike.  So I'm trying to find a way to do the same thing that's cheaper (hopefully) and lighter (and maybe smaller?).

One possibility (that I'll try) is to simply strap her bike to the back of the tandem.  I'm sure that will work, but I'd also like a system that works if my wife is the also riding the tandem and a system that would on a single bike.


texts: Please help. The derailleur seems to be fine, I'm suspecting the handle. I can't shift to the largest chainring at the front, it drops back to the second largest ring as soon as I release the shifter. I need to keep the pressure on the shifter in order for the derailleur to maintain its position on the largest ring, or else it will drop back to the second one.


texts: Are Shimano saint pedals suitable for trail / xc use?

texts: Thinking of buying the Whyte t129s, but not sure what flat pedals would be most suited for the xc / trail riding I'll be using it for. I looked at Nukeproof Neutrons and DMR V8s - prefer the look of the Saints, but worried they might be more DH/FR-focused and heavy on the climbs.


texts: These pedals were on a used bike I purchased a year ago or so. I just switched them out for some old pedals I had because I didn't have cleats or shoes. Now I want to buy cleats and shoes, but I cannot for the life of me figure out what these pedals are. Can anyone identify these and point me in the right direction for getting some cleats?]1


texts:
I have a Trek Ermonda AL 4 and whenever I pedal forward, I hear a loud and irritating squeaking noise from the middle center of the bike. If I pedal softly I don't hear the noise as much and if I pedal super hard I also dont hear the noise as much. Its just mainly whenever I'm riding at a decent pace. I just replaced the cassette and my derailleur.
Crank
Shimano Tiagra, 50/34 (compact)

Bottom bracket
Press Fit BB86.5


texts: What is the simplest way to lower the gearing on my touring bike?

texts:
I have a 2004 Jamis Aurora with a 52/42/30 triple and an 11-32 cassette in the back. 30x32 (25.3 gear inches) being the lowest gear is frustrating for the hilly terrain where I live (e.g., 7% grade average over several miles, with higher local steepness), and so I'd like to lower my gearing.

I'd like advice on how to most simply do this. The basic problem is that replacing any given part appears to have cascading compatibility issues which may or may not be solvable, and I'm becoming confused.

I do use the full range up to 52x11 (127.6 gear inches), but only on descents that are fast anyway, so I am happy to lose the higher gears and coast instead. There is essentially no level terrain where I live.

Relevant specs (all parts stock in 2004):

9 speed
Crankset: Truvativ Touro 52/42/30, 130/74mm BCD
Front derailleur: Sora 28.6mm, clamped
Cassette: SRAM 11-32
Rear derailleur: Deore SGS
Shifters: Tiagra
Bottom bracket: TruVativ sealed cartridge, 68 x 113mm

Options that I've found so far:

Add a larger cog in back, such as the new Shimano 12-36 cassette. As far as I can tell, this will require a new rear derailleur and a new chain, but that's it. This makes the lowest gear 30x36 (22.5 gear inches), 12.5% lower, and the highest 52x12 (117 gear inches). A downside is the excessive size of the rear cassette.
Replace the crankset, for example with a 48-36-24. This makes the lowest gear 24x32 (20.3 gear inches), 25% lower, and the highest 48x11 (118 gear inches). At first glance, this one is the most appealing, but it seems to also raise the thorniest compatibility questions; the ones I'm aware of so far are (a) finding a front derailleur which is compatible with both my road shifters and the smaller large chainring (one possibility), and (b) differing chainline offsets of road and MTB cranksets.
Swap in a lower granny chainring, say 24 teeth, resulting in a 52/42/24 crankset. My concerns here are (a) whether my derailleur can handle the 18-tooth jump between low and middle and/or the lowness of the granny gear, (b) the awkwardly wide jump between low and middle (75%, or about 5 sprockets), and (c) retaining very high gears that are feasible only for making a fast descent faster.
Swap in 3 new chainrings. This seems to raise similar concerns to item 2.


texts: This bike was given to me from a elderly lady who no longer wished to own it. Other than a columbia I have no idea what year or model. There seems to be no serial numbers from which I can see on the frame itself.


texts: New pedal fell off maybe 50 miles after installation. Should I replace the entire crank, just the arm, or repair the thread?

texts:
Repair newbie here just getting back into mountain biking after a long absence.

I recently bought a Cannondale Catalyst 4 from REI. It's a fine introductory bike for what I'm looking for, but I hated how cheap the pedals felt. So I replaced the stock pedals with these:

Unfortunately, maybe 30, 40 miles after the installation, the left pedal fell off today. When I tried to put it back it seems like the threads on the arm are completely stripped...

I can only assume I messed something up with the install. Probably didn't thread it properly or tighten it fully. Oh well, learning experience.

I'm just unsure what the best way is to replace it. I see these as options:

Repair the thread (can't do myself, as I don't have a workbench or the tools to do so).
Replace just the arm.
Replace the entire crank.
Return the bike to REI and upgrade to a better one, since I'm fairly confident I want to buy a full suspension bike with a dropper post and better everything.

I appreciate any advice.

EDIT:

Thanks for the replies everyone. Local bike store is going to replace the crank for $15 + labor. Should be good to go from there. I'm going to be more careful with my maintenance from now on!


texts: How should I lock my bike in a public front wheel bike stand

texts:
In front of my gym there is front wheel bike stand that means a regular D lock will not be able to  reach from the stand to the frame.

Around the corner is some Sheffield style locks but they are out of the view of the gym - meaning easier for criminals.
I am wondering what is the best approach for locking in a situation like this.
Should I invest in a long chain as a second lock to reach the frame.
Would a thin cable be suitable?
Is it better to go with a Sheffield even if it is not in front of building.


texts: I've changed my chain, and now when I shift into lowest gear, the rear derailleur won't move back out, and the cable goes slack. Any  insight?


texts:
I have an old steel frame (Columbus Number 2 I think) that has the seat post (Suntour Superbe Pro - see, I said it was old!) rusted in. I have tried lots of WD-40 but it will not budge.
Any tips on how I can get it out without having to cut the frame up?


texts: Shimano Tiagra - Install smaller front chainring

texts:
I recently bought a used Trek Checkpoint ALR4, with which I'm very satisfied.
The gearing is ok so far for going on plane ground an light uphills, but when going on long and steeper hills it gets really hard to push which I don't want to sustain on longer rides.

It has a 50 and a 34 tooth chainring in the front and I was looking for a way to replace the 34 tooth chainring with a smaller one. But as far as I can see, I would have to change the whole groupset with both chainrings ant the cranks.

My question is if there is a way to do this without replacing the whole crankset or at least keeping the front derailleur. I couldn't find any evidence online that this is possible without replacing everything.

EDIT:

Rear Cassette: 10x 11-34.

I've got spare a 11-42 rear cassette from my mtb, would this one possibly fit without chainging the derailleur?

Update with the solution I went for:

I changed the rear cassette from 11-34 to 11-36 (CS-HG 81-10) which worked straight out of the box without any adjustments.

For the crankset, I went for the Shimano GRX 2x10 46/30 crankset which was easy to install. I had to shorten the chain by 2 links. It took me quiet a while to adjust the front derailleur and at the point where it shifted correctly, there was some friction when shifting into the higher gears on the bigger front chainring (The chainline of the GRX is 3.4mm wider than the line of the Tiagra crankset). With no possibilities for adjustemnts left, I ended up bending the metal of the derailleur a bit. Im pretty sure every professional would have told me to buy a new derailleur, but now it shifts even better than before all those modifications and the disfigurement that I did to the derailleur is not noticeable if you don't know it.

I'm pretty happy with the gearing of my new setup.
Costs for the complete conversion approximately 120€ and 2 hours of my time.

Thanks for the help!


texts: What is the best way to protect frame from dents during crashes?

texts:
I have a bike and I crash relatively often. I'm concerned about protecting the frame from damage.

I started searching for a way to resolve the problem and I'd like to share options that I've found, discuss their pros and cons and maybe someone would share their experience and other options to protect a frame.

Protective film

I discovered that there is a such thing as a thick protective film that can prevent minor-to-medium damage to the frame's surface. There are special film kits for bicycles, but they are expensive. I'm going to use industrial protective film which is cheaper and probably of greater quality.

Derailleur guards

It's unlikely that I will use them because during crash they may work as a lever and inflict serious damage to the frame.

Adhesive bumpers/pads

I've found special pads for bicycle:

But I didn't find where to buy them.

I also found generic adhesive bumpers:

I think I'll try them but I don't have much hope that they will work.

Motorcycle crash pads

I have a wild idea about fitting such devices to the bicycle frame. But these things also can lead to a serious frame damage.


texts: if you replace the front gear system do you need to replace both the rear casette and the rear derailuer or neither

texts:
I've been given an old bike from the road which has gears where you can't tell what gear the lever is in (there is no number) just a lever in one of three positions or seven for the back).

I am wondering if I upgrade this front gear lever system do I have to upgrade one, both or neither of the (1) rear cassette and (2) rear derailuer?


texts: Removing cushion from Aldi Bikemate Boodie seat

texts:
I would like to remove the cushion from my Aldi Bikemate Boodie seat - it is unpleasant after spending the winter in a damp shed. There is only so much cleaning I can do while it's on and I don't want to expose the plastic shell to cleaning chemicals.

(Edit: Daniel R Hicks pointed out it looks like "Polisport Bubbly Maxi" and it is exactly the same seat, and it turns out so is "Raleigh Avenir" and others - they even keep the "boodie" embossed on the cushion. Clearly it's all licensing etc.)

I contacted Teknihall using the info on the product information plate - but I'm not sure if Teknihall are the original licensor or one of the many licensees. Anyway, they said they would look into this, they may still get back to me and I will update this question if they do.

The problem is that the cushion is held in place by a clamp/jaw which I highlighted in photos 5 and 10. It seems like it should be possible to slip the jaw off. I gave it a go and it didn't move. I'm conscious I will brake/strain the "tongue" that the buckle sits on if put any more force on it. I can see how there might an element of rotation involved in slipping it on and off. I can't see any catches/levers I would need to prize/lift.

The question is: has anyone removed the cushion on a seat like mine or similar? The tongue that holds the buckle is clearly a safety critical part so I don't want to mess with it unless I am happy my actions are safe.

0 Manufacturer's photo taken from Aldi's website - NB this photo was added after several people commented the photos are not clear.

1 top general view

2 top showing back of buckle

3 top showing front of buckle

4 clamp top close up

5 clamp top close up annotated

6 bottom general view

7 bottom seen from prong ends

8 bottom looking vertically up

9 cushion clamp - bottom view

10 cushion clamp - bottom view - annotated

11 product information plate


texts: I have an opportunity to buy this bicycle. No idea what it is or what its worth. Any help would be appreciated


texts: Building up a 1988 Schwinn Circuit frame with new parts

texts:
I’m very new to vintage road bikes, I’ve had an 1988 Schwinn Circuit frame laying around for years. Is it possible to build it up using newer components?

I understand that it originally came with an 7 speed Sante’ group. I’d like to build it with an 9 or 10 speed group if possible. I’ve heard that you may have to widen the rear to 130mm?


texts: Is a 7 speed chainring compatible with an 8, 9 or 10 speed cassette and chain?

texts:
Currently I have a 7 speed cassette (13-23) running with a spacer on a new Tiagra hub. After I changed my chain, the wear has made two of the gears unusable.

I am considering changing the cassette to increase the number of gears. The simple option would be 8 speed (12-23). The other alternative looking at the chainrings would be a complete change to 9 (11-23) or 10 (11-25) speed and drop a few teeth at the front.

Will my current chainring be incompatible with a new cassette and chain? In other words, can I use a 9 or 10 speed chain with a chainring designed for a 7 speed cassette and chain? Is there a significant difference in durability between the setups?

I mainly use by bike for commuting and light road touring.


texts:
We received this bike from a friend that was cleaning out their garage.  There aren't any identifying badges or marks, etc., except the ID# H990320629.  We tired to find a similar frame as seen here.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Which combination of single chainring and crankset goes with 6 speed?

texts:
I have 90s Bianchi "Project 2" which is early hybrid of MTB and roadbike it says. I want to customised to single chainring narrow wide (somewhere between 48 to 40T), but leaving original rear 6 speed (14-28T). I like this old 6 speeds since I don't ride so much on hills.
First question is, is this set up make sense? Does keeping 6speed makes more complication for further set up? Such as finding apprortiate chain, crankset, other parts, etc. If easier or eventually cheaper to install other setup, please let me know.
If keeping 6 speed is possible. I would like to know; which chainring (narrow wide between 48T-40T) and crankset goes well together?
I have a BB-CS11 but I can also replace with other.
I am beginner and stepped into a mud of bike tuning :)
thanks!


texts: Shimano Steps E6000 battery charge percentage falls abruptly

texts:
When the battery charge gets to about 20-25% it drops abruptly to 5-10%. The steeper the hill and higher the load drop percentage is higher.
Examples:
from 25% to 6% steep hill
from 13% to 8% small hill
from 19% to 8% steep hill

All in High assist. Bike is 2 weeks old / 250km ODO

Is this normal?


texts: Does a rear derailleur guard provide effective protection?

texts: I recently caught my rear derailleur on a log and snapped it in two. I have done some recent work on some department store bikes and noticed that some come equipped with an axle mounted guard around that surrounds the derailleur. Does anyone have any experience with these. Do they work or is it just something else to get snagged by brush and vines?


texts:
What's the proper way to fit a hybrid/commuter bike?

Most detailed bike fit articles seem to apply to road bikes but not so much for hybrid/commuter bikes which cycle commuters, recreational cyclists, and weekend warriors often use. A good bike fit can encourage cycling for transportation, improve fitness and health, and shorten trip times because it increases comfort, reduces injuries, improves power output, and reduces the risk of neglected muscle groups while exercising.

From what I learned, posture actually affects which muscle groups are emphasized. It's about as important as learning how to pedal properly. Using more of our muscle groups can increase endurance and power. It may even improve blood pressure responses during exercise which is especially important for those with a heart condition. A study showed that exercising with our arms led to higher BP than exercising our legs. Arms have smaller muscle groups than legs. They should have fewer capillaries too so the heart has to work harder at the same blood flow. Rolling our hips forward increases glute utilization. With a good bike fit, it's easier to pedal smoothly.

For hybrid bike fitting, can we determine the saddle height by the 30 degree knee angle, heel on pedal with the knee straight, or 109% method?

Would the knee over pedal spindle method be reasonable?

How do you know that the stem length and angle is correct? Road bike fitting often have the back angle at 45 degrees, and the shoulder angle at 90 degree but what should they be for a hybrid bike fit?

Since hybrid/commuter bikes don't have drop bars, should a mountain bike fit be used instead?


texts:
Do pedals come in widths? Can I get a wider pedal to fit my wide feet?

I wear a size 13 EEEE, a wide shoe. I'm biking in regular shoes, not cleated. My pedals are plain platform style (not cleated, no strap, no toe clips, just flat). I'm having trouble fitting my feet on the pedals. I'm either off the outsides by an inch or two, stepping on the crank arm, or both.

I'm getting overuse on the outsides of my lower legs, and I think it's from trying to keep my feet flat on the pedals.

The bike's an MTB, but I'm just using it to get around, nothing intense.

Follow-up a few months later (2017/06/12):

I went with pedal extenders (Sunlite Pedal Extenders, $16.50 on Amazon) and it's about one million percent better.  They offered 21mm and 27.5mm variants, and I went with the wider one which turned out to be the right choice.  My shoe fills all the space between the crank and the outside of the pedal.  (When did my feet get so big?)  It doesn't seem to matter that there's no pedal under the inside part of my feet.

The extenders take an 18mm wrench (field repairs) although I think tightening a pedal with the usual wrench would also tighten the extender.


texts: Risks of pedaling with outward pointing knee

texts:
During my pedaling action I always try to keep my knee moving in plane parallel to the plane containing the frame, or, in other words, my leg parallel to the frame.

I have however noticed other fellow cyclists who tend to spread their knee outward during part or all of the pedaling cycle, like they are about to corner even though they are travelling straight.

Is it just a matter of esthetics, or is one of the two styles safer for joints/bones/muscles?

I am not asking why they do it (as in this question), but rather if it is neutral to the health of the cyclist.


texts: How do I thread rear derailleur cable through this adjuster?

texts:
this is a Lemond Zurich from around 1999 that I'm converting to 10 speed in rear. I can't get the cable to thread past this metal part that seems to be a fine adjustment for rear derailleur. I can't pull it apart. There is a spring mechanism between the part attached to bike frame and the rotating adjustment. Any experience with this? Ideas?
Thanks,
Bob


texts:
I've heard about Mechanical-hydraulic hybrid brakes but didn't find any examples.

Are they exist? If yes, are they comparable with hydraulic?


texts:
When I last got on my Specialized Stumpjumper the seat wanted to spin freely. The seat post was firmly clamped in the frame. With further inspection the seat is spinning where the seat clamp goes into the seat post. Is that a connection that is just glued together? If so, what do I use to re-glue?  It believe its a carbon fiber post.

The image below is not from my bike, but does show that junction where it spins.  Any help would be appreciated.


texts: How to fasten main cable to BR-CT91 (Shimano Altus) brake?

texts:
Basic question, but it isn't addressed in instruction manual that came with the brake.

In picture, (from left to right), there is the brake, a bracket, a rubber washer and a nut.  Where do I a thread the cable through?


texts: Are there any suitable alternatives to alcohol/brake cleaner for cleaning brake rotors?

texts: Alcohol and brake cleaner seems to be the recommended options for cleaning disc brake rotors. I don't have any of that available currently, so are there any suiltable alternatives to them that can be used safely?


texts: Is it safe to install these V Brakes? Arms don't sit flush with bosses

texts:
Replacing my old V Brakes, got sold some Shimano BR-T4000s.
What I found is they don't sit quite flush on the bosses. There's an internal ring that's a bit larger, that ring is just a bit deeper on the old breaks, and just a bit shorter on the Shimanos. While the pin for the spring fits in the hole, there's just this like 5mm gap between the brake and the base. The boss also doesn't quite make it through to the other side like they did on the old brakes, and the included bolt is a bit shorter.
Is it safe to install these? Or do I just have mismatched parts?


texts: LED headlight eating away at power output of USB charger

texts:
I have the following setup:

Shimano DH-3N72 hub dynamo
cycle2charge.de USB charger
LED headlight and taillight, both capacitor-backed

The headlight and USB charger are both directly attached to the dynamo. The taillight is attached to the headlight so that the switch on the headlight switches both off.

With the lights on, the USB charger hardly gets any power. My phone will show that it's charging only after some time (presumably once the capacitors of the lights are fully charged) and only if I'm going fast. If I switch off the light, it takes a much lower speed for the phone to start charging.

I do understand that the lights reduce the amount of energy available to the charger (also the manual of the charger says so), but I am surprised that the effect is this significant even with LED lights. Is that really due to the power consumption of the LEDs themselves, or is this effect due to inefficient circuitry or some kind of voltage regulator? (My hub dynamo came with a regulator device, which I didn't install. It is meant to be hooked up in parallel with the lights and is apparently some kind of ballast. In a setup with two incandescent lamps, if one of them fails, it is supposed to prevent the other from burning out.)


texts: Can I change from short to long derailleur to increase cog size

texts:
I am have a tiagra 11-25 10 speed cassette with short cage. I am a poor climber and looking for extra gear; I would like to go 11-32 for this year until my climbing improves, will the short cage derailleur take a 32 teeth cog?

If not what 10 speed derailleur is recommended?


texts: what should I do when single track gets narrow

texts:
There are some trails I ride on regularly and I've seen many people go each way. A few times the single track gets very narrow and I was wondering what should I do when I see a biker coming towards me? There is also an about 50 foot cliff on one side and a fence on the other so I wouldn't have anywhere to go. Should I turn around and go back to a section that was wider and let them pass? Otherwise the trail is too narrow and won't allow two bikers side by side.

Edit
I live in Orange County California

Any ideas?


texts: How can I keep spiders and other bugs off my bicycle?

texts:
I am an extreme arachnophobe, to the point that I've left dishes in the sink due to a dead spider the size of an M&M.

My bike at work is right in the open, and because of the soft winter, there are dozens of spiders around the parking lot. I very much doubt I can deal with one or more of them sitting or even forming webs on my bicycle without getting all freaked out about it.

I don't want them to get in my bike, form webs on it or even get within a couple of feet of it. Are there any methods I can use? I found https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/2384/what-can-i-do-to-keep-my-shed-or-house-free-of-spiders, but most of those are hard to apply to bikes.


texts: How strong is the remote lockout on rock shox?

texts:
I ask because I realized yesterday that I had left lockout on for hours of riding at a bmx style track hitting jumps and wallrides.

I found the lockout helped a lot and I'll continue using it for that if it doesn't damage my shocks.

EDIT: The exact model of fork I have is

Rock Shox 30 Silver TK Solo Air
Tapered Steerer / Remote Lockout
Reb. Adj. / 100mm travel


texts:
Please help me identify a mystery bike that I purchased at a garage sale and have grown to love.

I am not sure what is original to the frame but the bike has a 56cm frame, Shimano SFR rear dropout, a sticker on it that says 'Champion NO.2 Tange Industries', 26.8mm seatpost, serial number on lower non drive side seat tube that I believe says 'S0S5140'. It has braze-ons for one bottle cage on down tube and on top of bottom bracket a cable bridge.

The components on it are first generation Shimano Dura-Ace cranks, bottom bracket and brakes. Suntour Cyclone front and rear derailleur with Shimano 600 Arabesque shifters, 3TTT stem, Tange headset, KKT pedals, SR seat post Concor S. Marco saddle. Campagnolo hubs with Fiamme tubular rims.

It fits me well and rides great, it just would be great to know who made it.

[]
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texts: Reading various questions and answers around here, I've heard a lot of people say you can tell the quality of the bicycle by looking at the welds.  How do I know what a good weld looks like as opposed to a bad weld.  In this answer its stated that good bikes have smoother welds.  However, when looking at my bike, the welds don't really appear to be smooth at all, even though I know it is a high quality bike.  What should I look for when looking at the welds of a bike? Pictures would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I want to try riding a recumbent two-wheel bike to see if its easier.  So I borrowed one and I just cannot get it to work right.

When the owner demonstrates it looks so easy and really fast.  We are the same height so it should fit me okay.  The bike is not faulty beause he rides it okay.

When I sit on the seat with the bike still its okay but when I start pedaling I can't balence and have to put a foot down really quick.  I tried to put my hand down but it hurt my shoulder.   Once my foot was trapped by the wheel and I fell down hard.

I am a confident rider who cycles 30 mins a day to and from work on a Trek commuter bike.  We tried on the flat smooth carpark at work not a road.

How do I get moving and keep my balance right from start?  Why am I failing so hard?

I do not have a photo of the bike, but it looks mostly like this one  from http://www.dtrecumbents.com.au/DTRecumbents/Images/ProGoal1.jpg  but rim brakes, no rack, no bag on the stem, and no headrest.

I do not use clips or cleats on my road bikes.


texts: I can't identify my bike... Serial number ACM05F006119 20 inch bmx?

texts: Help me identify my bike please. I have a 20 inch aluminum BMX bike with the serial number ACM05F006110   I believe from the 80s?


texts:
When I pedal fairly hard there is a creak coming from the bottom of the bike. I have read several other questions which talk about a similar thing however my situation is slightly different:

The creaking stops when I flip the right hand pedal 180 degrees.

Should I just change the pedals to fix this?

To be clear I believe this is a problem with the pedals.

Related questions dealing with other sources of creaking from the bottom bracket, crankset, or pedal area:

Bottom Bracket Creaking
Creaking from cranks/spindle. How to fix?


texts: Adding gears to a childs trike pickle pashley

texts: I'd like to add gears to my disabled son's pickle pashley tricycle. I have made a start by adding a 5 speed casette, but I'm stuck trying to work out how to shift the gears as there is no where to mount a derailleur and not enough vertical clearance anyway. Any suggestions for alternative gearing solutions would be appreciated.


texts:
I was wondering if anyone could help me identify this bike, or point me to the resources I could use to get get a better idea about what it is.

--

Pictures @ Imgur

Cross-post on reddit

"This seems to be a fairly rare pre-Trek frame, apparently from 1992, going by the serial number. It has pantographed "Greg LeMond" signatures on the rear frame stays, another LeMond signature and "HAND MADE" pantographed on the top of the rear brake bridge, and is stamped "SILVA" on the underside of the rear brake bridge. The BB is stamped with a serial number (25 9237) and 54c, which indicates the size (and Columbus tubing; there's no tubing ID decals and the "SILVA" stamp apparently indicates a frame that was painted in Italy, and not in the U.S. by the importer, as many were when LeMond went belly-up). The chrome dropouts are also stamped "Columbus." There are no model ID decals or other identification marks, as far as I can tell, and I haven't been able to identify it more accurately despite an extensive search."


texts: Shimano 105 early- to mid-1990s SLR groupset on eBay worth it for 70s SuperCycle rebuild?

texts:
Is the below groupset a good value for this frame?

I picked up a vintage SuperCycle Medalist frame (I'm guessing 1970s) and am looking to make a comfortable but capable bike for commuting and general urban cycling. It has a few parts that I'll clean and evaluate while I rebuild, but for the sake of argument, let's say that I only keep the frame/fork, cable guide clamps, and perhaps stem.

I have found a Shimano 105 early- to mid-1990s SLR groupset on eBay for ~$480 shipped. It includes:

BR-1055 brakeset
HB-1055 + FH-1056 Hubs 32 holes laced to AMBROSIO Elite Wheelset 700C 622x13C (pictures indicate tubes and tires may also be included, although that's not a huge concern)
FD-1056 + RD-1055 front and rear derailleurs, respectively (will need a 28.6 mm adapter clamp for the braze-on FD)
BB-UN71 bottom bracket, English threading
STI-1055 shifter 2x8 speed
FC-1056 Crankset SG 53/39 (170 mm, 9/16x20)
Shimano 105 Headset Italian Thread (I'm guessing HP-1055)
Shimano PD-1056 Pedals
134 cm chain
Shimano Freehub 8 speed (13.14.15.17.19.21.23.26.) (I'm guessing standard HG50)

The issues with my bike are minor and twofold. First, my frame and fork spacing will need to be widened slightly by cold setting: from 126 to 130 mm in the dropouts and from 96 to 100 mm at the fork. Second, I would require nutted brakes and perhaps a longer reach as I plan to use 700C wheels in a bike that was likely 27". So instead of using the BR-1055 brakes, I'd pick up some Tektro R559s.

The question is whether or not this groupset + wheels is a decent value. It is attractive for me given that individual parts come with individual shipping costs and vintage/used parts are excruciatingly difficult to source locally where I live. I built a bike last year with Shimano 600 components and while the final product is absolutely amazing, the costs for sourcing individual parts added up quickly.


texts:
I have noticed that my bike makes a high pitched squeaky sound when pedalling on my 12th tooth cassette cog (second smallest), especially when going a bit faster ( over 30 km/h or 18 mph) and applying a bit of torque. The cassette is a Shimano 105 10 speed.

It just happened in that cog. I disassembled the cassette because I noticed it was a bit loose, cleaned it all up, lubed it (with drip lube), same for the chain. After a few tens of kms I noticed that the sound reappeared though much less pronounced and much less frequent.

After another inspection, I noticed that if I rotated hard the cassette it would budge a little, so I decided to tighten much better the cassette and now it appears to not move at all. I do not have a torque wrench so I just did it hard by hand.

The problem now is that I'm back at square 1. The noise has become again very frequent when I pedal at high velocity and applying torque.

I have ridden about 2000 km with this bike (give or take) and the mysterious thing for me it that it happens just at that particular cog (which i would use frequently before). I had the impression that after retightening, maybe the squeak also migrated to the neighboring cogs but I don't think so anymore.

I realise that my comments aren't very precise but I'm quite lost here.

Should I change the chain, because it might be the culprit?  Should I change the cassette? Should I grease the cassette using actual grease instead of drip lube?

Thank you very much.


texts: Over the years I have seen a few people transport a dog on a bike.  What options have you seen?   Please include a photo in your answer if possible.


texts: I don't have a whole lot of knowledge on this, but here goes. I have an old Murray Ultra mountain bike (prob. 15 yrs.+). It is a 15 speed bike, with a 5 speed freewheel. The whole Shimano system is the 515 which includes front and rear derailleurs.I really don't want to spend a lot of money on an upgrade, but an up grade of some sort is necessary because of simple wear and tear. All i'm asking is there a set,or equivalent where i can replace - at least the shifters to a more modern ones,and front derailleur without having to break the bank. At the very least the front derailleur and shifters.


texts: Need a replacement 42 ring for an Ultegra 9 speed triple

texts: I am replacing my chainrings on a Shimano Ultegra triple crankset. It is 9 speed circa 2003. I can't find a replacement 42 ring as I don't think they make them any more. (I have the replacement 30 and 52 rings). What current 42 ultra ring will work with this 9 speed triple? Thanks


texts:
First time servicing a rear hub for me.
I disassembled and cleaned my Shimano FH-M510 rear hub, removing the nut, washers and cone only from the left side of the axle.
When I went to insert new bearings and grease I noticed a silver ring, and i don't understand where i have to put it (you can see it near the old freehub body).

Did I put that ring with axle's parts by mistake? I just remember to have cleaned it from grease.
Can someone help me? Thanks

Ok, maybe it's the left side dust cover


texts: Convert Cannondale Quick5 Hybrid to a road bike?

texts: I have a Cannondale Quick5 Hybrid.  I would like to convert this to a full road bike. What changes do I need to do? Is it possible?


texts: How to check if the gear shifter or the gear itself is broken?

texts:
I'm not a bike expert so I'm not sure if I'm using the proper terminology here. So I bought a used city bike. It's the first time I see such gear and such a bike actually. It looks almost like this bike: http://www.fahrrad.de/kreidler-vp2-schwarz-glanz-385180.html

However there is only a single issue with the bike. The speed switcher only changes from speed 1 to speed 2. I can't change to higher speeds and I don't know what the problem is. When I try to switch to 3 for example the switcher doesn't allow me to, so maximum is speed 2. I went to a bike shop, the guy seemed to be not knowledgeable at all. He said the problem could be from the switcher itself and it would cost 10 Euros to replace it, but it could also be the entire gear is broken and that would cost 200 euros!!! It felt that he wanted to ripe me so he wasn't really willing to tell me what the real problem is.

My question is: how to find out which part is broken?

Here are the images for the switcher and the gear itself. And I would highly appreciate it if someone knew what the issue might be so he can also mention the name of the broken part so I can order it online!


texts:
I have a touring bike which works fine. But when I shift to either of the two larger cogs on the front the chain hits the derailleur on both sides. Obviously it's because the cogs don't run straight but I'm unsure what my best options are. (It moves around on the smallest cog as well, but not enough to hit the derailleur)

Can I bang this around judiciously with a hammer and fix it, or is it something that is a potential danger and needs service, or should I just take the derailleur off?

If I take the derailleur off then I'll just have one front gear, but I could probably live with that. There's no bike service places in this country, nor do I have special tools.


texts: Brake cable prevents handlebars from turning

texts:
I just got a bike off of Amazon and I'm not sure how well-assembled it is.
I can turn the handlebars about 45 degrees to the left hand side. On the right hand side, I can only turn them about 15 degrees before the brake cable hits the frame and prevents it from turning anymore. I am concerned that this may be a problem if I need to make a sharp right turn.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? Is it just poor construction?
Here are some photos:

When the bike arrived, the adjustment screw for the brake was fully screwed-in, and I loosened it in order to tighten the front brake up a bit (it still feels too loose to be comfortable, though). Tightening the adjustment screw all the way isn't enough to let the handlebars turn to the right.


texts: Just got a brand new mountain bike and the front wheel is so out off true spin it looks undesirable. But I know it can be fixed. I have the tools for it . my question is, can I just remove the front wheel off of my bike and lay on a flat table , lose in all the spokes and start from scratch to repair the wobble. I mean it really sounds like a logistical technique. Any opions would be very welcomed. Thank you all. Tye


texts: Touring with kids - tag along and kids trailer behind same bike

texts: I am wondering if anyone has experience of pulling tag-along and then kids trailer? Would that be possible to tag a kids trailer to a 20 inch tag along?


texts:
I'd like to start a DH race at my local ski hill (which has a few DH trails) and I'd like to know how to setup the following:

Registration
Practice/Qualis/Race runs
Timing/Results

I realize this is pretty broad, and I have the general idea of how a race weekend goes from watching way too many PinkBike videos, but most of those are large races with sponsors, etc.

Also, the size of the first race will most likely be less than 50 racers or so.


texts:
So I have a steel road bike which orignially had a 1" threaded fork. I replaced it for a ahead fork and have been using this with a 1" Ahead stem without issues.

The stem was just a temporary solution and somewhat too long for my comfort, so I decided to replace it. I found it much easier to find lengths and angles of ahead stems for 1 1/8" steerers, so I opted to get one of those(FWIW Tune "Geiles Teil 4.0").

I was aware, that I was going to need a reducer and I was initially just going to buy one, but then I saw that at 15€ I consider them too expensive for what they are(a piece of shim) and that there are different heights and it was not trivial to find one to exactly match the 39.5 mm height of my stem.

Anyhow: Seeing that I have access to a bicycle workshop and scrap parts, I took an old 1 1/8" suspension fork with an alloy steerer, reamed the inside of the  steerer to exactly 25.4mm inside diameter, cut 39.5mm off and made a 1mm wide cut, along the tube, all the way through, to allow for some compression.

TBH it fits like a glove, it's definitely stiffer than the previous stem, when riding hard out of the saddle  and I am pretty happy with having made my own solution, however one Question arose:

Is it even correct to make a reducer with exactly the inside and outside diameters one is going for, or should, the outside diameter for instance, be slightly larger than the inside diameter of what it will be inserted into.

This might be a silly question, but seeing that I don't have access to a quality reducer like this one to measure myself, I thought I'd ask.


texts:
Back story

During this weekend we went on a trip with rented bikes, and observed the following problem on one of them: the left pedal would sometimes not spin on the shaft (i.e. it remained in the same position, no matter, how the shaft was turned, whereas the normal functioning would be that it is always "horizontal", i.e. it changes its angle relative to the shaft, when the shaft moves -- so that you can keep your foot horizontal too). This is of course very unpleasant and could be even dangerous. (The pedal could be made to spin, by applying much more force on it than normally.)
As I said, the problem was intermittent: sometimes the pedal was spinning normally, then it would get stuck for sometime, then it would get unstuck and spin again, without any apparent reason.

We could not find a way to remove (and then put back) the pedal either, but I'm not sure it would have helped (we also thought of lubricating it, but did not do it in the end).

Questions

How are pedals attached and spinning on the shaft?

  |        |
 /_  _  _   __
()( )( )( ) (  )
+------------------+
|                  |--+ < How does this point work?
+------------------+  |
                      |
                      |
                      |
                      |
                      |

I'm guessing that they are not directly spinning on the shaft, because then they would unscrew (or tighten) as they spin. So I think there must be a rod, which is tightened on the shaft, and a bearing around that, and then the pedal spins on this bearing. Is this correct?

If this is correct then the issue must have been with the bearings and removing and putting back the pedal wouldn't have helped. Am I correct?
The correct solution would have been probably to lubricate the bearings, but how can you do it? Can you take it apart and then assemble it again so precisely that it still works afterwards?


texts:
Recently, I had a problem with the back rim (the axis) and the guy who repaired just replaced the rim.

After few weeks I tried to repair a flat tire, but I found myself unable to remove the tire to change the tube. After two or three hours of fight I found out that I had damaged the tube and the tire, and I decided to just tear the tire apart. Even doing that was difficult.

So after that, I tried with 32-622, 35-622 and 37-622 tires and none of them fit. Impossible. Not even the first bead of the tire, which is supposed to be easy.

Then I decided to measure both rims (the one that wasn't replaced and the affected one), and they seem to have the same diameter as well as the same width. The only matter in which they differ is the well depth. The "good" one has about 12mm of depth, while the one I can't mount has like 8mm.

Can anybody please suggest which tire sizes should I buy?


texts: Hand numb during sleep after training ride

texts: After a hard training ride, I am more likely to wake in the night with my hand numb. This does happen at other times, but more often after a tough ride. I drag it around on the mattress to wake it up. Is there a nutrient I am missing?


texts:
When installing new cables and housing, is is wise to oil the housing?

If so, how? Here Hicks recommends spraying (but for re-newing  old cables). On the other hand, I have found it intuitive to put a drop of oil onto the entrance of the housing, then thread the cable through it.

My rationale is that oil reduces friction, and cables and housings enjoy lack of friction.

So does oiling new housing help, or is it reserved for servicing old housing systems?


texts: Worried I damaged my fork fitting crown race

texts:
I'm an idiot. I've been working on building up a Surly LHT frame and was all going fine until I got to fitting the crown race.

I couldn't get it to fit properly and instead of making a cup of tea and watching some how-to videos like I normally would, I fitted a metal pipe on the crown and a bit of PVC pipe above that and rested the forks on some carpet and smacked the pipe really hard with a metal bar. When I stopped I'd gone through the carpet and put a small (1mm) dent in the bottom of one of the dropouts (not deformed them). After that I went to my LBS and they milled the fork down a bit and fitted the race.

I've inspected the fork really carefully - no visible damage or bending. Is there any chance hitting it that hard could have damaged it somehow? I just don't know enough about steel as a material.


texts: How to clean out the inside threads of a braze-on?

texts:
I'm installing a basket on my cruiser, and getting some of the allen screws into the fork braze-ons is rough going. It feels like there's dirt or grease inside the threads of the braze-ons. Forcing the screws in could damage the threads.

How can I clean out the inside threads thoroughly, using common household items?

Note: Folks installing racks and fenders will often run into the same problems. I mention it here so searches on those terms will show this question.)


texts: Pendulum motion when riding out of the saddle

texts:
When riding out of the saddle, you will often have to rock the bike laterally for stability.
My question is: how do most people synchronise this pendulum motion with their pedal stroke?
In which direction and when should the lean be in relation to the moment you push down on one pedal?
Personally, on each stroke I lean the bike on the side of the foot pushing down, but this GCN video seems to demonstrate the opposite: leaning the bike on the side of the foot not pushing down.
EDIT:
More specifically, what I do is I am leaning the away from the 'push down' side just before I push down. At the instant I do push down, the bike inevitably leans towards the push down side, reaching maximum lean when the foot pushing down reaches the bottom of the stroke (which is when the other foot starts the next stroke).


texts: Finding a single speed kit for an old campagnolo from 1997 with screw on freehub

texts:
I have an old Campagnolo from 1997 that I want to turn into an single speed.

My problem is finding a kit that will fit the freehub. The outer diameter of this freehub including teeth is 34 mm, but when I find a kit like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/400876993505 the dimensions are off. The cog I bought from ebay has a smaller diameter that the freehub.

What should I be looking for when it's an old 1997 screw-on freehub? Would it be easier just to replace the freehub, and if yes, which one should I pick to make sure it's going to fit?

Measuring the freehub


texts: Can I fit 3 x9 speed crankset to 3 x 8 speed cartridge

texts: I have a Merida hybrid cycle fitted with Shimano XT Deore 3 x 8 speed (42/32/24T). The crank has a few worn teeth and I would like to replace with Shimano XT Deore (48/36/26T). The seller states this is for 3 x 9 speed gear set, can I fit to my cycle?


texts: Sora R3000 brifters with the M4000 rear derailleur

texts: Is the pull ratio still the same ? I can only find info on the older gen sora shifters not the most updated ones..


texts: What is the difference b/w dropout diameter(9mm) and 3/8"(9.478mm) Tpi bicycle axles

texts:
I am creating a ski-bike and taking this website as a reference: Alpine Ski-Bike.

I am having some trouble understanding some things, as it says that

  "it fits in 100mm x 9mm front dropout"

but then it states that

  "Mounting triangles and foot pegs are extruded 6061 T-6 aluminum. They
  use standard 3/8" 26 thread-per-inch bicycle axles (140mm and 175mm
  lengths)"

I have two questions:

The mounting triangle uses a 3/8"(9.478mm) bicycle axle but the front dropout is only 9mm so how is it supported?
I am asuming that (140mm and 175mm lengths) = 140mm length of mounting triangles and 175mm length is of foot pegs, so is 140mm is the length of bicycle axle?