texts: Best bicycle for a moderate to extremely hilly suburbs?

texts:
I've moved to an area that's notoriously hilly. I had gained a lot of weight but managed to ride it off by cycling in a well built but extremely faulty and wastefully heavy chinese bike. The gears gave me the hell (those shitty gears that force you to turn them like a motorbike) and riding up a hill was extremely difficult. I've busted it up by now so this time I plan on asking some experts on which bike I should get.

I'm slightly over weight.
Smoked a bit (stopped) so need to get in shape.
I live in a hilly area so gears matter.
I don't trust bike stores here.

Please just need general over all advice on what type of equipment should be loaded up on my future bike to make my ride easier.


texts:
I am wondering if bike tires have a weight limit.  I have to admit, I am a large guy at 6'3" 250lb (190 cm, 113,5 kg), and I have always had issues with my road bike's tires getting pinch flats.  I could never seem to put enough air in the tire to keep the rim off the road on bumps, etc.  I ride a mountain bike now and I haven't had the same issues.  Though of course they are a lot knobbier/thicker.

The tires are 27 x 1.25


texts: How do I make my pannier bag less smelly?

texts: Because I ride my bike everywhere, my pannier bags (Ortlieb Back Roller Classic) carry all kinds of cargo, from wrapped-up fish-and-chips to damp swimming and gym kit. I store them open whenever I can, so they're not as ripe as you might think, but they've still developed a distinct odour over time. What's the best way to wipe down the inside and leave them smelling like new again? Do you have any recommendations for a particular cleaner that won't damage the waterproofing, or a special technique that gets rid of the bad smells?


texts:
I needed to replace the front brake cable on my old brompton, so (after a bit of searching) ordered what I thought was the right cable (QBRCABFA-M[3] from sjs cycles). Turns out, it was the wrong one and the nipple is too small for my brake lever.

As described in this blog post:
http://blog.brilliantbikes.co.uk/2015/05/brompton-10-degree-brake-lever.html
... brompton move away from their own brake cables to a more standard type in 2012.

It seems the old cables are quite difficult to find now, the front cable I purchased was the only one I could find that looked right. One option might be to buy this cable for the rear brake, and cut the cable to the right length for the front...

So, my question is, how can I get round this without buying new brake levers? Anyone have any other bright ideas?

(Pic below shows my brake lever)


texts: I wonder if anyone knows of a 29er frame that has clearance for at least 2.5 tires that will take a compact (50/34) road crankset? Preferably steel.


texts: How should I handle a highway patrolman who stops me occasionally to give incorrect instructions about my riding duties?

texts:
I live near a minor Tennessee town and frequently ride the few miles into town and back on state highways. Part of the route (the less busy part, ironically) has a dedicated bike lane, but it's filled with debris in many parts, so for about the last year, I've been riding about 6-12" left of the white line and moving over a few feet when a car is about to overtake me (except when there's not enough room, in which cases I've been simply holding position, which is arguably wrong). This has worked quite well and I've had very few close calls. In particular, visibility seems to be anecdotally better when riding at the edge of the lane instead of on the shoulder.

Recently, however, a patrolman seems to have gotten in the habit of stopping me every few weeks to tell me I should be riding on the shoulder… by which he apparently means as close to the very edge of the paved area as possible. But according to this Knoxville Regional Bicycle Program PDF, this Bike Law article, and even the official TN Driver's License Manual (p105, or p116 in the PDF), I

don't have to use a dedicated bike lane,
don't have to ride on the shoulder, and
can occupy the entire rightmost (only) lane if I choose to, since it's of substandard width.

Assuming all this is correct, how should I handle this situation? I don't want to pick a fight with police, but neither do I want to pointlessly endanger myself following instructions that aren't legally required.


texts: Cross training athlete, running out of energy during long rides, what should I eat before I ride?

texts:
I'm a high performance rower that uses cycling extensively to cross train (the local waterways are.....suboptimal some of the time).

When I'm out for longer rides (2-3hr) I generally run out of calories and crash, occasionally getting dizzy.  I've started carrying a camel pack and some snacks (granola, GU, etc.) which helps if the pack decides to stop for a quick pitstop but its often hard to get enough calories down fast without feeling it 10 minutes later.

I never have problems within my normal training but it typically never exceeds 2.5hrs and isn't quite as continuous.  Such a workout can easily burn 1500+ Cal, however.

My question is, is there anything I can eat before rides to maintain blood sugar levels so I don't pass out while trying to strike fear into the hearts of the local cyclists?


texts: Chain get stuck on front sprocket during pedalling

texts:
When pedalling the chain sometimes get stuck on the front sprocket. This happened after I cleaned the gears and replaced the chain. What could cause this?

The purple line is the chain. The circles are front and back sprockets.

You can see the chain in the bottom of the images following the sprocket back up during rotation.


texts: What are the missing accessories for you cyclists?

texts: I am a technology guy and I would like to ask you cyclists, what are the missing accessories with your bike that you want us to do for you? In a project at school, I am asked to use the following sensors: gyroscope, accelerometer, microphone, barometer, magnetometer, compass or the various devices: cameras, geo-location, RFID, wireless transmission, ultra low power devices to make a useful accessory for you guys bikers. Can you guys tell us what are the obligatory accessories you need for your bikes?


texts: Occasional chain slipping/skipping - is it possible for the hub to be at fault?

texts:
So I have this problem for a while now, at first I thought its badly indexed gears, worn chain, worn pulleys, bent hanger etc, etc. But after changing majority of stuff still have this slipping stuff.
It feels like chain jumps/slips every once in a while and I get like 1/4th circle of free spin on cranks.
So my question is, is it technically possible that the hub is at fault?
Since:

Gears indexed well
Shifts very well
New chain
New pulleys
Derailleur good condition
Rear cassette good condition (still pretty newish)
Chainring good condition
Hanger not bent
Frame not bent

Had this problem with old chain too by the way.
Sram 1x11, sram nx x-sync chainring, kmc x11 chain, shimano deore xt derailleur, sram pg1130 cassete (11speed), shimano FH-RM35 hub (still stock, but bicycle was 11 gears stock too)


texts: What could be causing excessive friction in a new rear hub?

texts:
I recently had my bike (Focus Mares CX) serviced by my LBS, during which they replaced my wheels with a set of new Campagnolo Khamsin wheels.  In the month since I had that done I've found it markedly harder to pedal; I'm suddenly struggling to get up hills on my commute that were fine before, despite also having switched from a 27t to a 28t largest sprocket, and I'm drifting back from my companions when we're freewheeling.

When I remove the wheels and hand-turn the axles, the front one rotates smoothly and freely, whereas the rear one rotates smoothly but viscously.  There's a lot more resistance than I'd expect, and compared to my friends' bikes.  In the past I've always had cup and cone hubs, so this sort of problem was usually down to an overly tight cone, but these hubs have cartridge bearings and I'm unfamiliar with them.

I'm finding the hub schematic (pdf) a bit difficult to get my head around.  There's an endcap on the non-drive side that's secured with a pinch bolt, which is apparently used to take us slack if there's play in the axle, but loosening it has no effect.  Is there another bolt that I could loosen?  The new wheel sits much tighter in the frame than I'm used to, and I wonder could the LBS have tightened up something so much to get it in the frame that it's overloading the bearings?


texts: Bike making random noises after being lubricated

texts:
I bought a second-hand bicycle two weeks ago. Everything seemed to work like a charm; smooth rides; no noises whatsoever. However, lately I decided to oil it. I think that I put excessive amounts of oil in the cassette and derailleur.  I used Liqui Moly 1613 MoS2-Rust Remover.

Right after the lubrication, the bike started to make a random noise while coasting. The noise is random, it doesn't appear periodically, but it is there and it kicks in let's say several times in a 1 minute span. It sounds like cracking joints (bones), but a little bit more intense and sharper. Nonetheless, the ride was still smooth.

I didn't have the chance to ride it again after the first trial after the lubrication.

I hope you can give me some insights regarding the possible problems my bike might have. Can it be just because of the excessive lubrication? Is there any risk if I continue riding it like that, given that the ride seems super smooth still?

Edit:

I rode the bike after I came back from vacations, and the noise is not present anymore :).


texts:
I have just started using a trainer, Elite turbo muin B+, the power, cadence and speed are transmitted via the Elite misuro B+ sensor.

The issue i am having is that the speed is being overestimated. I know from my experience of many years of cycling and what i am capable of that the speed shown is too high, the cadence and power output seem about right.

Does anyone have any ideas or experience of this and any possible solutions to rectify this to give a more realistic indication of speed.

The sensor is set to 12 blinks as per the instruction.


texts:
I bought my 3 y/o son a new BMX bike and found out only after that they do not have a coaster brake. They do have two hand brakes, one for the front wheel and one for the rear.

I would like to know the pros and cons of coaster brake vs hand-brake?


texts: Wheel building - ever encountered nipples that are screwdriver-only?

texts:
I bought "powder coated" nipples for a new build to match a frame. It's for a SOMA Wolverine and the wheels were to be black spoke & rim with orange nipples - all the other non-orange parts are black so I'm looking to complete the overall effect. The color is a good match. However the "powder coating" comes off as easily as dried acrylic house paint from chrome. With normal use of a spoke wrench (for example Park Tool SW-22.2) the coating is peeling away as soon as the wrench is removed, around the holes in the rim it's a similar story even though the heads and threads of the nipples are lubricated. Part of the problem is that the "powder coating" is very thick on some nipples, thin enough not to affect the fit of the wrench on others.

The story from the seller - Newson Sportec (select "PC Orange" if you want to see a nipple photo) - is that these nipples can only be tightened from the rear, i.e. by screwdriver. Of course that information only comes after lacing up the wheel and finding that the paint is falling off, turning what should have been a perfect new wheel into a mess.

If you're an experienced wheel builder, have you ever build a wheel without a spoke wrench, do you think it is possible to build a correctly tensioned wheel using only the slot?

My thought is spoke rotation would be far harder to observe and with the wheel in a rotating truing stand it would be almost impossible to keep the driver engaged with the slot. And then the spokes would have to be exactly the right length or else they would protrude from the back of the spoke, disengaging the driver - as a Nipple Driver (e.g. Park Tool ND-1) is designed to be disengaged. Or be too short and not grab enough thread.

If you haven't built a wheel - ever come across "powder coating" soft as butter?

edit: Part of the problem might be that the brass nipples have been plated in what looks like chrome before the "powder coating" was applied. I suspect plain brass, even without any preparation of the surface, would have been a much better base for the color. Anyway they are removed and binned now.


texts: I went riding almost immediately after applying Squirt Lube (wax-based) on a brand new chain, should I degrease my chain and reapply?

texts:
I replaced my old chain with a new chain (factory lube removed) this morning. I applied Squirt lube, a wax-based  The instructions for new chains read "wait until dry". I don't know how long that would have been, but... something came up and I had to use the bike to get around town, so was forced to just ride it anyway.

During the ride the chain sounded a little crunchy when pedaling. Nothing crazy, but it had made a noise which I would call "I should lubricate the chain" sound.

Do I have to restart the process from scratch? Take the chain off, degrease, put back on the bike and reapply? Do I just wipe it down and lubricate it now?


texts: What is the actual width of a Panaracer Pasela tire?

texts:
Not unlike other brands, I've heard that older Panaracer Pasela tires ran slim when compared to their advertised width, probably a marketing ploy to get the weight down for its size - but I've also heard and read (on the internets..) that recent production has changed such that the widths are wider, more true to spec.

The cool thing about the Paselas is that they come in so many sizes.  That's also the bad thing - none of the local bike shops carry them.  I'm trying to determine the widest tire I can fit in my bike.  Anyone out there with Paselas on your bike, can you report the width of the tire at its widest point, along with the spec'd width?  Even better would be someone with the Pasela TG 700c x 28 - the size I'm aiming for - that would more than awesome.


texts: Properly locking on a floor mount rack with a U-lock

texts:
I have read recommendations to lock both the bike's frame and wheel. That's quite easy to do on larger racks, such as Sheffield stands.

The place I work in, however, has a floor mount rack to store bicycles, with semicircular shaped supports. If I park the bike with the rear wheel on the support, the derailleur gets a bit bent, which I believe may damage it (am I wrong?). If I park it with the front wheel, my U-lock will only manage to lock the wheel, which is not a good choice since it's quick release.

Under these circumstances, is there a technique to securely lock it without damaging the bike?

The rack I mention is similar to the one below, but it has no bolts.


texts: Two spokes broke in 10 days interval on rear wheel, should I worry?

texts:
I am the proud owner of a Commencal FCB 2016 and I haven't had to do much maintenance since I've bought it a few months ago. But that was until two weeks ago. I decided to change tyres to better fit the current weather, and in the middle of the process, I noticed that a spoke was broken. I had it repaired and I think it may have been caused by fixing the tool to extract the tyre to a spoke the wrong way, but no way to be sure. Yesterday, when I arrived home, I noticed a noise coming from my rear wheel, and here it was, another spoke broken. The first time, I brought the wheel to a shop and they changed the spoke and took a quick look at the other spokes, which seemed okay for them.

I haven't changed my bike riding style lately, but the road I ride on is under maintenance, so my ride contains a few spots where the quality is very low. But I try to avoid most of the holes and that's pretty much it for the recent changes. Is it just bad luck or is something possibly wrong with my wheel ?


texts: I just banged up my bike, what damage should I look for?

texts:
I'm sort of looking for a "generalized checklist" of damage types to look for on a bike that I recently slammed and dragged against a lot of things and now runs a little slower than before. I haven't noted anything obvious but I'm just wondering where to start.
Specifically, yesterday I dragged and yanked my bike through a dense tangle of trees and undergrowth.
Thanks!


texts: Can I use BMX brakes on my Murray Ultraterrain MTB?

texts: I have an outdated 90's MTB that requires single pivot brake calipers. The only brakes of this kind I have found are either for road bikes or BMX bikes. How do I know if they would actually fit before my online purchase?


texts: Other than chain length, what are the limitations to the number of gear teeth?

texts:
I need to replace my chainwheel and cassette, and it made me think. I know that the chain has to be a specific length relative to the number of teeth on the gears.

I was thinking about changing the cassette for one which a bigger 1st gear. Suppose I could get one with whatever number of teeth I wanted.

The bigger the better, right? If better means less effort to climb hills. But I have never seen a really big gear, like almost the circumference of the wheel.

I assume that's for a practical reason, not just because it would be very lazy if it worked and look ridonkulous :)


texts:
Why are some gear ratios more difficult to pedal than others on a bicycle.
It feels as though I’m missing some very simple piece of reasoning!


texts: Is it bad for the bike to pedal backwards?

texts:
Whenever I near yellow or red lights, I slow down and pedal backwards as I coast so that I can continue to get exercise while I wait for the light to turn green before I reach the intersection. (It's a mountain bike; it doesn't have a coaster brake.)
Is this bad? From what I've read, crank-arms are supposed to tighten themselves as you pedal, so does that mean pedaling backwards loosens it?

(The only thing I can find when doing a web-search on this is about whether it's physically beneficial to pedal backwards on a recumbent bike, not about the effects on a bicycle.)

Note: Some people have mentioned that it's not exercise because of the low resistance, but that's like saying that a motor with no load doesn't burn any fuel or battery to turn. It may not be a hard exercise, but it's still movement. Moreover, there is another point to coasting toward the intersection in that coming to a complete stop at the light requires a lot of exertion to get back up to speed and it's very frustrating to feel rushed, trying to get across while cars wait. By coasting, I'm able to much more easily get through the intersection quickly once the light turns green.


texts:
Are there any alternative exercise to biking while it's raining?

I have been fortunate enough to solve my insomnia with biking...something with it seems to connect and works well to solve my ages old problem of sleep.

The part that helps me most is climbing hills, not so much the flat parts.

Jogging, walking, etc. somehow DO NOT seem to have the same effect in my case.

I am wondering what I will do when winter comes in and it  starts raining... any suggestions other than buying a costly stationary bike?


texts: How to improve braking with hands on hoods?

texts:
I have gravel bike for around 3 months now with mechanical disc brakes and one thing I have problems with is braking. When I ride on drops (which I do rarely) I can brake well -- I pull the brake lever by its bottom end so I can even lock the wheel.

However with hands on hoods I cannot reach the far end of the lever so I have two fingers close to rotation axis of the lever. As the effect I can pull the lever slightly but not to such degree as riding on drops -- as the effect I am slowing down but not really stopping, I cannot execute emergency stop for example.

Which of course worries me. So is there some trick I didn't figure out? Or there some levers with different shape which help braking on hoods?


texts:
Buses in my city have bike racks. In some cases, it is faster to use both the bus and your bike to get from point A to point B (the transit system here isn't too good). Google Maps is great for finding transit directions, or bike directions, but as far as I know, I cannot easily find directions that make use of both...
Are there any tools/websites that would help me finding such information?


texts: connecting center pull dia-compe lever cables

texts:
I have some old dia-compe center pull brakes.

Inside the lever is the little roller pin with a slot in it for the cable and the small hole on the bottom and the larger hole on the top that the nut on the end of the cable sits in. These have suicide levers and a red metal pin sticking out of the inside of the brake handle.

My question is: how do I thread the cable so that the nut is in the big (proper hole) and doesn't fall out when I put tension on it to hook it on to the caliper cable?

The cable is curved it has taken a set from being on there so long. I think it's too simple and I've been looking at it too long.


texts:
I'm building a bicycle for myself on a steel road frame using primarily used and salvaged parts. I measured the inner diameter of the seat tube to be 26.8mm but I only have on hand a 27.2 seat post. Should it be fine to use this post?

I'm only asking this because, to my surprise, the 27.2 post fit cleanly into the frame. No force was needed to insert it and, there's even a small amount of play when the clamp isn't attached.


texts: 9-speed system to 11-speed drivetrain upgrade?

texts: I am currently upgrading my bike from a 9 speed to an 11 speed system.  I am currently using shimano 105 components and will continue to use them within the new system.  Current bike has a shimano 105 rear derailleur but does not specify if it is unique to a 9 speed system.  Will I need to buy a new rear derailleur?


texts: Locknut on threaded headset doesn't tighten

texts:
It's a second hand bicycle that I've owned for a short time, but the problems seem to have started after a crash. The headset started to rattle, and I didn't have a tool to tighten it, so I would just do it with my fingers every 30 minutes of riding. Now that I have a tool, when tightening the locknut, it "overturns", i.e. you can't tighten it.

I'm guessing that it's either the threads on the locknut that are worn-out or the threaded tube on which the locknut screws on. I'm not sure how to identify which though. If it's the threaded tube, is that easy to replace, or do you have to change the whole fork?


texts: How do I calculate calories burnt using my bicycle's weight?

texts:
I've just finished a long bicycle tour on a loaded touring bicycle, and I'm interested in calculating the number of calories I must have burnt over the trip. However, all the calorie calculators I come across don't take into account the weight of the bicycle, which means the data must be a significant underestimate.

So, what is the calculation used to calculate number of calories burned on a bicycle ride, and how can it be modified to take into account the weight of a heavily loaded touring bike?


texts: should my left shifter be clicking more than twice

texts: So the left shifter is for my front mech. When I twist it, it can click  mor than twice. I have three chain rings at the front. Is this normal? Right now when u turn it try changing gears the mech doesn't line up with the indicated chain ring


texts: I picked up an old adult tricycle to restore at a yard sale. It needs plenty of work and needs a bunch of new parts (spokes, fenders ect.), however I do not know anything about the tricycle except for the serial number that was found on the headtube. The numbers being HC0755083, I have seen no other identifiable markings, leaving me to wonder if it is perhaps a custom made tricycle. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Help me build a 2x11 crankset with a 40t/42t big ring and bashguard

texts:
I'm in the process of sourcing parts for a new MTB bike. The frame supports e-type top swing front derailleurs, and 92mm pressfit BBs.

And I want to have a 2x11 crankset with a 40t/42t big ring and 28t small ring, and a bashguard, because the resulting gear ratios fit my riding needs perfectly (I have an old bike with a 42x28 crankset and a 12-36 casette). Also, I want to avoid grease marks on my pants and legs, hence the bashguard.

I thought this would be easy, however it seems lately the industry has shifted to adopt either 1x setups or 2x with 24-34 to 28-38 cranksets that don't support bashguards. That doesn't really suit me, not only because of the missing bashguard support, but because the highest gear, 38x11, is just a tad smaller than my current 42x12, and I still have room for improvement.

What I'm considering ATM is

Build my own crankset sourced from parts on Aliexpress, because, although I find some chainrings on other online stores, I can't find a crank that supports bashguards. And Aliexpress is loaded with offerings, but I don't quite understand the specs, and I don't know how to check whether the specs of chainrings and cranks are going to be compatible both between one another, and the BB. So how do I build a compatible crankset?
Taking a cheap Alivio or lower-end crankset with a bashguard and remove the smallest chainring. I might end up with a 40t/30t crankset in that case, but that's acceptable. Are there trade-offs here, and if so, what are they?

I'm overwhelmingly inclined to go with 1., but still considering 2., and alternative solutions are welcome; I just want a Shimano-compatible 2x setup with a top gear greater than 42/12 and a bashguard.

BTW, I'm aware the front and rear derailleurs have capacities when it comes to min/max sizes of front chainrings and the difference between the smallest and biggest one; I've found compatible derailleurs.


texts: Used a 3/8" hex key to remove the crank but the outer bolt needs to be tightened separately. Perhaps it's possible to tighten it with the crank off or do I need a special pin type tool. Its a ~2008 Cannondale Synapse Carbon. Hollow shaft running to the opposite crank arm.


texts: How do i figure out the maker of my bike?

texts: There are no words on it, it is a chrome frame and the only markings i found on it were a serial number that reads G1109025563. Is there any way i can get any information on it?


texts: I saw my bolt was loose on my mountain bike, so I turned back home, but ended up losing it along the road. I had to walk the bike home because my rear shock (Fox Float RP2) to my bike (Gary Fisher HiFi Deluxe 29er). The shock is connected by two bolts to the bike. I am missing the bottom one. Does anyone know where I can look up this part for purchase or if it is a common part that I don't need a specific one? I've learned lots about this bike just from breaking it so many times, but I can see I have plenty to learn!


texts: How does the length of the studs on winter tires affect traction on ice?

texts:
How does the length of the studs on winter tires affect traction on different surfaces?
I recently bought a pair of Nokian Hakkapeliitta W106 tires for my around-town cruiser. These studs are pretty small, as tires go; these are meant to be good all-around winter tires, not specific ice or deep-snow tires.

The next time I go on a ride on ice or snow, I'll want to get studded tires appropriate to the conditions, probably for my 700c touring bike. (I'm hoping to find them reduced at the end of the winter season.)

How does the length of the stud affect handling?
What kind of tires will I need for icy roads?
Is it possible to have aggressively studded tires at the same time as full fenders (SKB plastic fenders with metal cores, in my case) or would I need to remove my fenders for the winter?


texts: I'm looking at doing a decently long bikepacking trip mostly on road. I currently have a carbon framed orbea avant endurance bike. I'd like to do the ride without necessarily buying a new bikepacking bike. I was thinking that a seat post bag, frame bag, top tube bag, and maybe a backpack to ride with and putting 28 or 30 mm tires on. Does this seem reasonable as a setup? I've done century rides on this bike before and it's comfortable enough. What are the drawbacks of a carbon endurance bike vs. a more bikepacking focused steel or aluminum bike? I know if the carbon cracks I'll be SOL.


texts: My front wheel steers right. How do I solve it?

texts:
Some time ago I had a little accident with my bike. With the accident the front wheel got unaligned from the handlebar.

I simply put it in the right position holding the wheel with my legs and turning the handle bar. Easy solution.

Since than the wheel has a strange behaviour. If I let go of the handle bar when riding the wheel (and handle bar) turns right "automatically". Do you have any idea of what is happening?

Note: Initially I thought it could be a warped wheel but it doesn't seem to be the case.


texts: What is this ring on these bottom brackets?

texts: Ordered a few bottom brackets; I've never seen this ring before. I can imagine its purpose, but that imagining takes me to consider that this could be problematic (bottom out before bolt is tight). So - what gives and is this new?


texts: Chain rubs against frame when in smallest rear cog

texts:
I've set up a 12-speed SRAM Force groupset with an XDR cassette. When in the smallest rear cog, the chain rubs against the frame:
Does anyone know what causes this and how to fix it?
The frame is a Dolan Titanium ADX and the wheels have QR axles.


texts: Pannier rack for larger diameter seat post

texts:
I have recently purchased an old, second-hand folding (or at least collapsable) bike, a Daewoo shuttle to be precise. In order to use it for commuting, I would like to fit a pannier rack onto it. It has very small wheels (16") and so I was thinking of a seatpost mounted rack, preferably with quick release. Unfortunately, the seatpost diameter is quite large (about 35mm, maybe a touch more) and the one rack I bought (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DUAMLDA) didn't fit because of the seat post diameter being too large.

I have searched everywhere for a pannier rack that fits large diameter seat posts, but have drawn a blank. Can anybody suggest any pannier rack that would fit or any tips or tricks to make a standard pannier rack fit onto a large diameter seatpost?


texts: Is there a reason for levers to be reversed on bikes with hydraulic brakes?

texts:
I recently bought a MTB with hydraulic disk brakes, and am finding really hard to adjust to the braking system. From the very beginning I was cycling with the front lever on the right. But now it’s reversed, and it’s really confusing me a lot.

I asked my mechanic about this and he says front brakes on the left is the European style of braking. So I should get used to it.

But, why exactly are brakes reversed on such bikes? And to add up, my mechanic claims that the brakes cannot be switched. Is this true or, am I just being punked?


texts: Shimano 9 speed road hub compatible with XT 11 speed cassette

texts:
I am looking to upgrade my drivetrain, essentially moving from road (Ultegra and 105) to XT mountain.  I'd like to avoid replacing my rear wheel if possible though.

I've read conflicting things about whether the hub spacing between road and mountain is compatible.  Can anyone answer definitively?


texts: What height should drop handlebars be - relative to my saddle?

texts:
I've done most of my cycling with flat handle bars on a mountain bike. I'd like to start commuting to work though and am considering getting a road bike with drop handle bars.

The thing is though, I tried a bike in the past that had drops and didn't really find them comfortable. I hardly used the drops because it felt uncomfortable. This meant I usually kept my hands on the tops of the bars, and then that has the problem that I couldn't get to the brakes as quickly as I could with the flat bar bike I had.

Perhaps I had the drops set up at the wrong height when I tried them. What height should the drops be relative to the saddle?


texts: Can jockey wheels be used in either position in derailleur cage?

texts:
Old jockey wheels are getting toothless and I was wondering, does it make a great difference which jockey wheel goes where?

Can you use the same profile jockey wheel in either position?


texts: Can you run 52/39 chain rings with an 11/32 cassette?

texts: Seems most bikes either come with 50/36 rings and an 11/32 or 52/39 rings with an 11/28 cassette. I live in hilly terrain and do need lower gears but often feel spun out with my 50/36 by 11/32, could you run a 52/39 with an 11/32?


texts:
I'm a runner who has just started cycling. I did a 20 kilometre (12.5 mile) ride last weekend without much trouble, and a total of 50 kilometres (31 miles) during the week.  I'd like to cycle more and I'm wondering if there's a safety limit for increasing distance.

For instance, in long distance running, there's a 10% increase rule where you increase your weekly mileage by no more than 10%.


texts: How can I identify if my 'Cinelli' frame is real & what model it is?

texts: I bought a road bike off ebay. Which is supposedly a Cinelli from the early 90s / late 80s. How can I identify the model?


texts:
bike http://images.craigslist.org/01010_iSEhT1sECUO_600x450.jpg

What model/year is this bike?

I was wondering because the owner of the bike does not know!

Thank you :D


texts: brief pain and swelling in hips during intense movement

texts:
Description:
A brief painful, hot sensation, and swelling in hips. I can refer this as "overheat" as it will disappear if I rest my leg for few seconds, or very slow pedaling. When it disappear, it means gone, entirely, no pain at all. I can tell my hips are swelling as my pants feels tighter.

When:
During intense movement such as fast or heavy pedaling. The "heat" accumulates and keep heating up and more painful if I don't rest my legs or slowing down the cadence. At peak point (which is VERY painful), I can barely move my legs.

Current condition:
height 166.5cm, weight: 105kg, maybe this pain related to obesity but most of the symptoms only appear while cycling, rarely on any other daily activities.

This is very uncomfortable as I need to rest my leg for 5-10 seconds every now and then to let it "cool" down. Is this caused by obesity, or improper seating/pedal position ? I tried increasing/decreasing the height of my sadle without any effect. Can anyone describe what is this and is this common among cyclist ?


texts: Rear axle keeps developing play, is it fixable or time for a new wheel?

texts: 26-inch mountain bike wheel with Shimano loose ball hub and freewheel. The old axle kept developing play. I installed a complete new one and new bearings and problem persists. Cones are properly adjusted and secured.  Is this fixable, do I have to live with it or is it time for a new bike??


texts: Using a chain-type oil filter wrench as a chain whip

texts:
Long story short, I need to remove the rear cassette on my bike. The cassette is a pretty basic Shimano one, and the drive shaft bit I bought a few years ago looks like it also fits the lock ring.
That leaves me with the chain whip. I have been unable to find one at stores nearby, but a few ones carry chain-type oil filter wrenches. The chain looks like a standard bike chain.
EDIT: I don’t have an image of the exact tool I have in mind, but this one is similar. Basically, it is a length of chain with a metal handle attached.

Would this kind of oil-filter wrench work as a chain whip, for the purpose of loosening the lock ring on my cassette?


texts: Using an 8 speed cassette on an 10-11 speed Tiagra FH-RS400

texts:
I'm trying to build a new set of wheels for touring trip (2 months) I have planned and can only find a Tiagra FH-RS400 hub. The issues is that my shifters are Claris 3x8 ST-2403-L and cannot support 10 or 11 speed.

Can I use an 8 speed cassette on the Tiagra hub and if so what size spacer would I need?

Thank you in advance!


texts: I have a city or normal bike and I want to ask, that with the necessary modification except the frame, is possible to convert this bike in a road bike?


texts: Can I use a 650cc tire on a 27x1 1/4 rim?

texts:
I just got these brand-new, never-touched CONTINENTAL HIGH PERFORMANCE road tires and went to install them on my bike when realized they seemed just a bit to small for my 27x 1 1/4" rim, so I checked the description size on my new tires and came across a new size I've never dealt with before continental 23-571(650x23c)

My question: can I use these tires on my most recent project? And if so what other info to know about doing this switch?


texts: Looking for ideas - Decent cheap 26" 1 1/8" suspension fork for 1996 Trek 950 mountain bike

texts:
Goal:

Replace rigid fork with short-travel suspension fork for under $200 (used OK, switching to threadless from threaded OK; standard 100mm QR axle preferred but 15mmx100 through axle OK; V-brake mounting bosses preferred but disk-brake-only OK)

Seems like short travel (e.g. 60mm) will be needed to fit A2C; has low-end fork suspension technology advanced enough that a recent cheap air shock would be better than a 15+ year old used fork like maybe a Judy?

My bike:

1996 Trek 950 mountain bike; 26" wheels, cro-moly frame, original rigid chrome fork using 1 1/8" threaded headset.
Trek tech manual says geometry is designed for axle-to-crown race (A2C) distance of 408-430mm, but I would be OK with up to 440mm.
Tech manual link: http://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fisher-Klein-Lemond/1996specmanualTrek.pdf
Bikepedia link: https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=50637


texts:
I want to add regenerative braking to my bike, not for energy recovery, but as a braking supplement/assist on long downhills. Is anyone doing this and how effective is it?
A 3 phase hub motor IS a generator when freewheeling. All that's needed to create braking resistance is a load that can be switched in on demand. In fact, a short circuit might be effective if heat buildup in the windings can be managed. As an electrical engineer, I understand this much.
My question is, has anyone done it and how effective is it as an assist, not the primary brake?
Joe


texts: I am very new to road bikes and have decided to buy one. The problem is both shops I have gone to said I should get a 54cm frame, even though I'm only 5'5. This seems to go against a lot of online information and my friends advice. What should I do?


texts:
In Toronto when the temperature goes above 30 degrees Celcius (90 degrees Farenheit), for a few days and without wind, there is smog.

I find the smog irritates and makes it difficult to breathe in through my nose. Worse, if I breathe in though my mouth instead of my nose then it hurts my bronchial tubes.

A related question is, Is pollution a problem in urban cycling? - which says that it is a problem, but doesn't ask whether a mask or other anti-pollution measure is effective.

Might a mask help me for this situation, i.e. breathing on the hottest days? Are they effective and are they usable? If so what type or brands or models should I look for?


texts: How to get slower gearing on a 1x10 drivetrain

texts:
Looking at purchasing a new bike with a 1x10 gearing setup.  I am concerned that with my current or future level of fitness, I may need slower gearing on the bike.

What is the easiest (and cheapest) way to get easier gearing on the bike?  Options:

Change the crankset
Change the chainring
Change the casset

This is the bike in question:


texts: Brake only touches rim occasionally when brake applied

texts:
On a new mountain bike, the brake pad seems to touch the rim only at some parts when I apply the brake, not the entire rim. It still stops the wheel or touch all parts if I press hard enough. Does this mean the rim is not centered, or warped? Or could be brake pad position issue that I can adjust to resolve?
Thanks


texts: Is it possible to get a slow leak straight after installing new tires?

texts:
So I decided to replace my bike tires to Gatorskins to prevent punctures.

Anyway, so I installed them and they seemed to be okay. I had checked it a day or two afterwards and it was okay. But this morning, after 3 days, I see the tyre is flat again.

I hadn't rode it since putting the new tires in (well I rode it quickly round the block to see how it went but that was like 2 minutes). So I'm struggling to figure out what happened. I know sometimes installing a new tire, you can accidentally puncture the new tube and that's happened a few times for me. But they're usually because I've left the sharp object in the tire or I've damaged the tube somehow when trying to install it. Usually if I stuff it up like this, the leak will be apparent and I'll know straight away.

But this time I'm putting in new tyres and I also used a new inner tube. And the leak took several days so hole must be very slow. Since I haven't rode it, it must've been from me installing it, but what could've caused this? Is it possible to get a slow leak from installing a new tire?

Could it have something to do with the tubes I've used? Maybe they're defective?


texts: Is it okay to true (align) a wheel with a missing spoke?

texts:
I have a Merida Speeder 300 with a broken spoke on the rear wheel, which is now out of alignment and rubs against the brake pads. Is it okay to true it, at least for a short term solution (and if so how would it be different from normal truing)? Will it cause damage on for the rest of the spokes?
Thanks!

Maybe I should mention that I've had this wheel for 4 years (in which I commuted almost daily) and so far I've only had one spoke broken before, which happened a year ago and it was replaced.


texts:
My question is whether there is anything "special" about the Bicycle-Specific Branded Chain degreasers or whether the much cheaper alternatives are just as good.  I've used the ParkTool CB-2 (http://www.parktool.com/product/citrus-chainbrite-CB-2) but it's really expensive.  I'm wondering whether Simple Green, Purple Stuff, or any of the various Citrus Degreasers that you can get at the hardware store by the gallon are suitable.  We ride a lot in our family and I'm presently maintaining 5 bikes, so although I try to use the same "batch" each time in the chain cleaning tool, then use that to wet my brushes for the cogs, etc., it still gets pretty pricey since each bottle only gets me through about 3 cleanings.  If it matters, our two road bikes are Ultegra (circa 2003) and the others are cross/mountain bikes that see mostly road use.  I'm not dealing with offroad sludge.  The guys at my FLBS told me they really like the "real stuff," and that other cleaners might damage my drivetrain.  I know these guys pretty well and they don't usually push very hard, so I think they really believe it, but I don't know what would be "special" chemically about bike-specific products vs. the others.

I'm new here and this is my first questions, so feedback is welcome.  I did try to search first, and found a similar question (What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?) but that doesn't really address my specific issue, I don't think.


texts: I accidentally pulled a Shimano Deore brake lever with the rotor and pads off

texts:
As the title says, I didn't realize pulling the brake will get it stuck in a closed position when wheel and pads are removed. Now the reason I'm asking this previously asked question is none of the answers worked for me.

So what happened? Step by step description of the (rather long) process:

pads were worn off and started making funny noises, so I thought I'd remove them (first mistake)
pulled the brake lever without any pads (second mistake)
used the bike like this for a while
I bought new pads, then removed the (back) wheel
observed brakes stuck in a closed position, then I stupidly pulled the lever again (!)

I tried separating them with a wide range of tools, just they keep coming back in after a few seconds. Right after I stick something in between, push them apart from each other, if I wait a few seconds they are right back in the previous (wrong) position.

I'd like to know if there's anything I can do now, without bleeding the brake or anything I don't think I'm prepared for with my rather primitive tools.

Thank you all in advance for the answers, happy holidays & ride safe and fun!

EDIT: I just noticed this question and its answers. I will try to leave it overnight, then attempt a bleeding if it doesn't work (I'm aware of the trapped air possibility).

EDIT #2: I attempted to spread apart the pistons again, and succeeded, then I stuck a solid piece of wood that barely fit between them. Left it like this overnight + a few hours later, then removed the wooden piece and left it free for a while. It seems the pistons got back to their normal position and all I needed was a bit of patience.

Thanks to all the people who replied on the linked questions, they really saved me some experiments and possibly more. Cheers!


texts: What makes WD40 work well for grip installation?

texts:
I've been using WD40 for installing grips for as long as I can remember.
Don't know where I got the idea, but this just works for all MTB-style grips I tried: spray WD40 inside, which makes it easy to slide them on. Then wait a couple of minutes. For some reason the WD40 seems to dissolve and/or react with the rubber compound.
Anyone know what exactly goes on?


texts: Do I have a genuine GT frame, even though it's not engraved or stamped with the GT logo?

texts: How can I know whether the bike frame I have is a genuine GT? I found the serial number u31036009 on the bottom of the hub. It has no GT logo stamp or engraving anywhere on it. Could it still be genuine?


texts: Help understanding effect of Crankarm length on gear ratios

texts:
Trying to learn more about bike fit and gearing, and having trouble understanding the effect of crankarm length on gearing. In an article on bicycling.com it states

"The relative jumps between gears stay the same, but the overall range will feel slightly easier to pedal, or smaller, with shorter cranks and harder with longer ones."

It makes sense to me that crankarm length would have an effect on how hard it feels to spin a certain ratio, but instinctively I would assume the opposite effect described here -- that a longer arm would give more leverage and make the overall range feel lower.

https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/components/what-you-need-to-know-about-crankarm-length


texts: No trim and can't shift into small chainring

texts:
I have the dura ace 7900 front shifter and derailleur and after my shifting cables have been replaced I have noticed the following.

I cannot trim anymore. The chain jumps onto the big chainring with only 1 click. Previously I could shift into the big ring with 2 clicks.

I cannot shift into the small ring. Well I can but the chain stays on the big ring while I pedal. Only after I turn the cranks for a while the chain drops into the small ring.

I can rule out worn cables and housing since those were replaced right as this problem came up.

I have tried adjusting the cable tension with the barrel adjuster but that yielded no results.

Any ideas ?


texts: How To Choose A Proper Sprocket Combination For A Road Bike Cassette?

texts:
I guess you have to have at least a couple of cassettes in your arsenal for different occasions. Can anyone please advise on how to choose a proper cassette depending on a trip. What can influence the decision process of choosing the right cassette for a trip? Road/weather conditions? Forecasted elevation gain (taken from the Strava for example)? Anything else?

By "proper cassette" I mean the appropriate sprockets combination. There are a lot of different combinations from 11t to 32t. So you have cassettes like 11-23 or 13-28 or any other.

Also I have to note that I'm new to road cycling so I don't have my own "style" of riding and this part of equation is totaly irrelevant for me.

Thank you for sharing the experience!


texts:
I've spend covid times in Asia, and getting ready to go home soon.
For the last several months here, I rode an old Cannondale Synapse with a Claris groupset - not amazing, but I really liked the frame, and it's actually the first indexed shifting road bike I ever used extensively.
Back home I have my old Klein Performance (circa 84'), with the original Suntour Superbe groupset, but I busted its front derailleur before leaving. I want to upgrade its groupset to a more modern indexed one, thinking of buying used on ebay before flying back.
I've always bought used bikes, so I'm looking on ebay for nice finds.
The options I'm more interested in are old Dura Ace 7700 9s, and old 8-10s Campagnolo Chorus. or Campagnolo record if I can get a good deal.
But I realize that I'm not sure how much wear and tear should come into consideration...
Assuming the chainrings are in good condition (no shark fins etc), can I expect a 25 year old derailleur to operate smoothly enough to be happy with it? Or will I be better off spending the same money on a new Shimano 105?
Other relevant questions - 1. Should there be any issues fitting these relatively-newer components on my old frame and wheels? (the Klein has old Wheelsmiths, I'm not sure of the model, I'll try to post a pic).
2. is there an easy adjustment I can make to use the Campagnolo groupset, or will I have to buy Campagnolo wheels to fit it?
TIA


texts:
I found this road bike on Kijiji. The vintage road bike market in my area is terrible, so $125 for something in this condition is the cheapest I've seen.

Is this bike any good? I am looking for something to fix up and restore.

imgur


texts: What are optimal fabrics for cycling clothing?

texts:
The title says it all.

However, should I vary the fabric through the year? Should I go with lycra in the summer and wool in the winter? And maybe, should I wear cotton?

I do 2 types of riding. Commuting and endurance cycling.

There are optimal fabrics for cycling and for athletic gear in general. What should I look for regarding cycling clothing?

October - April = Typically wet and cool/cold. We don't get much frigid weather, but it does occur for short periods.

May - September = Usually warm and dry. We don't get a lot 90+F temps, but do at times. Out on the coast it can be cool and damp this time of year. East of the Cascades, hot to very hot and dry.

Can this be converted to a community wiki? It has become apparent that the optimal fabric is personal choice and climate determined. Personally, I prefer merino wool and lycra/synthetics; but others find cotton to be their optimal choice.


texts: What kind of maintenance does a shimano dynamo hub need?

texts:
I have a shimano dynamo hub on the front of my bike.

Does it need any special maintenance, or maybe it needs just a little synthetic grease once a year, like a normal front hub?


texts: Descending without braking: where's the sweet spot?

texts:
This may get too math-heavy, but it seems that only a few variables are needed to estimate the optimum slope to descend without gaining/losing speed.

I looked around, but wasn't able to find anything directly relevant- just discussions about drag at high speed.


texts: Bottom Bracket Press fit to a square taper

texts:
I like to use my old Campagnolo crank on a new road bike frame. The frame has already a Pressfit BB71-41A installed. The crank needs a sqaure tape. Is it possible to use the crank with a adapter or do I need to buy a new frame/crank.

Bike Frame: used Bulls Desert Falcon Pro
Crank: Campagnolo Racing T 9 Speed


texts: Does a hybrid truely have a wider tire or does a mountain have a wider tire?

texts: I'm looking around my local bike shop and saw that the hybrids have a slim tire while a mountain has a more fatter tire. And when i researched it says the opposite. Please help me.


texts: What kind of paint should I use on my plastic mudguards?

texts:
I tried repainting my plastic mudguards (fenders) using automotive spray paint. It went on easily and covered well with two coats, but it has no abrasion resistance at all. Within a few weeks my paint job was full of holes where I'd parked the bike leaning on something, and where I'd D-locked the front wheel.

Is there a kind of paint more suited to this task?


texts: Rear wheel odd shape (goes up and down) fixit or buy new?

texts:
I have what I think is Specialized  Hardrock mountain bike.

Recently, when riding on a flat surface the back wheel has a noticeable up-and-down movement with each spin. It is like ridding a horse in the merry-go-round.

When inspecting the wheel spin, I don't see a side movement and can't visibly see the up/down movement, but I can easily feel it to the point that I do not want to ride the bike.

What are the options and costs? Consider I am not a fix-it-yourself bike person.


texts:
I currently ride a single-speed converted bike (vertical drop-outs). I like the ride but feel that when I'm going for high speed on the road, I'm pedaling too much. Currently running a 18T cog on the rear and 42T on the crank, with a 2.333' ratio.

I'd like to increase the ratio and have a cassette on the rear hub, with a 16T cog. I'm wondering what's the best way of switching the chain to the 16T and keeping the chain tensioned.

Would it be as simple as removing one link from the chain or would the tension not be there?

As the 16T is one level down in the cassette from the 18T would the chain line be OK?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

EDIT: Here's a picture of the gearing setup to make it clearer:


texts: I recently purchased a road bike after having ridden a dutch style bike for over a year and a half. The roads that I ride on have the usual gravel and dirt on them but every now and then my road bike goes over tiny pebbles in the road and ends up throwing them (I hear the sound of them bouncing off stuff behind me). Today was the worst because while going very slow I heard a pebble get whacked right in a car at the red light. I apologized and everything but is this normal with road bikes?


texts:
What could be causing this? Tires are about 200 miles old. Used almost exclusively on smooth, cleaned asphalt. Sometimes gravel.

Also - is the tire still safe?


texts:
I do a local community radio show once a week as a volunteer that I can cycle to but the issue is a often take vinyl records with me. Anyone know of bags/panniers that can hold some 12" vinyl?

Cheers


texts:
I have: Shimano Integrated ST-EF51 Shifter and Brake Lever (7-speed), on my stock Marlin 5.  I'm having trouble shifting with the cassette (back Wheel gears).  It seems I'm skipping a gear from 7 to 6, skips 6 and goes to 5.  I need to play around up and down the lever so I get the right gear.  What do I check?

Is there any Budget friendly upgrade, taking in consideration making the least amount of changes on my gear changers?


texts:
I had my bike on a stand yesterday and decided to check the rear wheel for any issues. I then noticed this squeaking noise coming from the rear hub. It happens regardless of whether I am pedalling or not, and the intensity varies with speed.

A video of it can be found here:

What could be the causes of this noise and is this something that needs to be looked at by a bike shop?


texts:
Are there LED based dynamo powered lights suitable for night time MTB riding on singletrack?

Likely they would need to have:
High Brightness, likely 500 lumens or better. Not sure how that translates to LUX used for most dynamo light ratings.
Standlight Mode providing several minutes of light while stopped
Be able to produce a relatively consistent output with varying levels of speed.
Weather resistsant to handle wet / muddy conditions

I'm currently using a battery system, but I'm looking for a non-battery alternative that will handle extended night time use without recharging for events such as 24 hour races and off road tours where I might not have a power source to charge lights.


texts: What is the reason for starting before the traffic light turns green?

texts:
I've noticed that a lot of commuters come to a complete stop at traffic lights but go before the light turns green. They start riding as soon as the light in the intersecting direction turns red. I usually get annoyed and assume that this could only reinforce negative opinions held by motorists, but I've suspected that there must be some valid reason for the early start.

This is a separate issue from taking an Idaho stop at a quiet intersection or blatantly running a red light. For rolling stops and blatant running, there is a significant saving in effort from not completely stopping, and there is an understandable, if not necessarily justifiable, tradeoff between efficiency and legality.

There doesn't seem to be the same tradeoff for early starts at traffic lights. In this case, the saved time is only two seconds, and there is no saved effort (since they have already come to a complete stop).

I've seen enough people do this that I'm sure there must be some logic behind the early start. Are commuters really desperate to save two seconds, or is there (as I suspect) some deeper reason for taking an early start at traffic lights? Does this behavior just hurt relations with motorists, or are there safety benefits that make this something that should be pushed for legalization (as with Idaho stops)?


texts:
https://streamable.com/7q86n7
I have a new bike that makes a cracking sound when cycling. We tried people of all sizes and the rear wheel makes this cracking sound.
Anyone has any idea what can be the root cause? Appreciate it. Have managed to take a video of it.


texts: How to get the tyre back on to the rim easily?

texts:
What is the best/easiest way to get the tyre back on to a rim after removing it to fix a puncture for example?

Some tyres can be really hard to get back on to the rim. I don't like using the tyre levers as I usually end up pinching the inner tube and making another hole. I can usually do it with just my fingers and thumbs but it takes a lot of time and effort (and sore thumbs).

Note, this is for a 26" mountain bike wheel with inner tube.


texts: Can someone help me identify this bicycle?

texts:
It says it is a Cannondale F400, but it seems those all have forks with suspension.  I am trying to figure out what it is, and it's value, before I move forward with looking at it, but I can't find anything that looks the same, and has the same features.

I can't post the images directly.  Thanks.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/4013428729.html


texts: Is my bike capable of swapping for longer cranks?

texts:
I have a cross-check at 52 cm with a casual drop handlebar set up. It's a relatively square frame compared to other bikes I've ridden in the past. The cranks feel very small, like I'm not using my whole range of motion to pedal. I'd be curious to run longer cranks.

The problem is that because of the short wheel base, on turns it's possible for me to accidentally kick my tire when I adjust my clip position to a relatively comfortable position.

Is my frame simply too small to fit longer cranks?


texts:
I am going to be doing a small triathlon soon.  It is just a local triathlon (no affiliation with large triathlon agencies) and the prize money is small, about 50 US dollars.

Is it legal to employ drafting during the bike portion?

Is it a dirty move to employ drafting during the bike portion?

The problem is a good portion of the race the bike trail is too narrow(6ft, two lanes) to pass another biker without drafting on them for at least a little bit.

EDIT: I have checked the website of the triathlon.  There is no statement about drafting.  They have a section about safety guidelines(being careful traffic, obey all laws, etc) but nothing about drafting.


texts: Is a 100mm travel hardtail ok for light downhill and a few jumps?

texts: I bought a haro flightline two dx and i want to upgrade it (fork,brakes,derraulliers,...)iam scared that if i do this with this bike that my fork is going to fail or something like that so could i do this with a 100mm sr suntour xct v2 or could i upgrade it to a fork with more travel. I dont know if a fork with more travel can go on this bike.Will my fork fail?and can I upgrade my bikes travel?


texts: How many spokes for a single speed road bike?

texts:
I want to buy a handbuilt wheelset from a local bike shop and I am in front of the decision of how many spokes I want to put on front and rear wheel.

The application of the wheelset is a singlespeed bike, to be used mostly on paved road (I have another wheelset for gravel) by an 80Kg rider. The rear wheel is going to be built with a track hub with a White Industries freewheel.

I was thinking of lacing 32/32, but then I read the following on Sheldon Brown:

  If you have the same number of spokes front and rear, either the front wheel is heavier than it needs to be, or the rear wheel is weaker than it should be.

Does this still hold on modern rims/hubs? What's the number of spokes recommended for my setup? Do all combination make sense or only some of them? For instance, is 28 front/32 rear ok?


texts: Are chain-drive gears 'ridiculously' efficient even when dry of oil?

texts:
Allegedly chain-drive gears are something like 99% efficient when well oiled and something like 98% efficient when without oil.

Personally I do not like the noise a dry chain makes, this has a 'I must be going slow' psychological effect on my riding so, even if I am not going slow, I think that I am. For this reason I never drive with a dry chain.

If the efficiency gains of an oiled chain are minor then that means the main reason for oiling the chain is to reduce wear/prevent rust rather than efficiency/speed. This is why I would like to know the efficiency of a chain when oiled as well as dry.

Comparisons against other drive mechanisms and their efficiency, e.g. bicycle shaft drive, automatic car transmission are also of interest to put the oiled/dry chain in context.


texts: Must cyclist yield to car turning right across a bike lane into driveway?

texts:
While riding in the bike lane on a four lane street in Northern California, a car passed me on my left, stopped in the right-hand lane twenty to thirty feet ahead of me, and signaled to turn right into a parking lot driveway.

Who has the right of way in this situation? Am I required to stop in the bike lane and let the car turn across my lane, or is the car required to wait until it is safe to turn?

Note: I'm specifically asking about California law but encourage answers for all jurisdictions. While safety and biking defensively is important, my question is only concerned with the law. There is a similar question regarding cars turning right at an intersection, but none of the answers address driveways.


texts: Good way to stop electrolyte tabs from turning into powder?

texts:
I carry electrolyte tabs on multi-day bike rides, especially in hot weather. I use a container like this (though not necessarily this brand — the picture is just for illustration):

What I find is that after a few days on rough terrain the tablets turn into powder (from rubbing against each other and, to a lesser extent, against the container.)

This is a bit inconvenient, so I'm wondering if anyone has any tricks for how to solve this?


texts: At what point does a road become too busy/fast to ride on safely?

texts:
Upfront, I'm willing to admit that I have some nervousness when it comes to commuting by bike that I need to get over. However, I want to know if all of that nervousness is unfounded, or if some of it is valid.

I live in the Southeastern U.S., where bikes aren't really regarded as things that belong on the road at all. This is a map from this article published on Wired in 2015:

As you can see, the Southeast doesn't fare too well. My specific question, though, is about roads like these (image credit: Google Maps):

I've ridden on 4+ lane roads before, but never with a speed limit higher than 35 MPH (~55 KPH), and often with a bike lane. The speed limit on this road is 55 MPH (~90 KPH), and this road and others like it (with no bike lanes) would be unavoidable on my commute. Are roads like these safe to ride on or is the speed of traffic too fast?

Edit: Sidewalk Clarification

Since a lot of people have mentioned sidewalks as a potential option, I figure it's worthwhile to add some details. First, the sidewalk on this road is not consistent. There are multiple spots where it just stops and then resumes 30 or 40 feet later. In other places, it stops and resumes on the other side of the road... but without a crosswalk to get there. Secondly, I checked our state laws, and riding a bike on a sidewalk is illegal.

As an aside, like many U.S. states, we also have an FTR (Far-To-the-Right) law, meaning riders can't take the lane (except for in a few circumstances). The state really isn't bicycle friendly.


texts: Why do I lose so much power/speed in an aggressive position?

texts:
I've heard many cyclist say they can go faster (and are more comfortable) with a large bar drop.

If my bar is more than 5cm below the saddle (even by 5mm) -- or if I increase the reach -- my power drops at least 20% (3-4 MPH slower up a 10% grade).  Is this because my torso is 10cm+ shorter-than-normal compared to my legs?  Or, can it be because my hips are large for a guy?  (Isn't a large pelvis/hips one of the reasons that woman tend to need a more upright position?)

Could it be that the saddle position isn't ideal?  (If I lower or move the saddle rearward from my current position  -- about KOPS & HOP -- the opposite occurs:  I'm slower when upright, then gain power as I force myself into a long, low position.  But, comparing the 2, the more upright, higher/forward saddle is noticeably faster then the aggressive, lower/rearward saddle.)

Is it simply a matter of "getting used to" a lower position?  (If I lower the bar 5cm, and just continue riding that way, will I eventually be able to put out the same power I did while more upright?)

I've had SIX bike fittings done over the years, every one making me LESS comfortable and SLOWER, so there's no way I'm spending more money on that.  (Every fit was completely different.  One had the bar 52cm from the saddle, another set it at 59cm!  One had the saddle 6cm behind BB, another had it 12cm back!)

Since I live and ride in the mountains -- I live 600 ft up the side of one! I'm MUCH more interested in power/efficiency than I am in getting aero (if I need to be more upright to climb as fast as possible, so be it -- but it would be nice to be reasonable aero -- lots of descents, too! -- if I could do so without the power loss.


texts:
I just bought a Schwinn bike with the following codes on the tire. AKR6483 / 40-622 / 700x38c. I have gone to numerous websites to possibly order a solid rubber tire for my bike so I will never have to by a replacement tire or repair a flat due to puncture. Can you tell me which solid rubber tire would be acceptable for this bike

Thank you very much

Ron


texts: Disassembling crank on a 2006 Trek Pilot 2.1

texts:
I'm trying to disassemble the crankset on my 2006 Trek Pilot 2.1; the bike has all OEM parts.
The crank is a Bontrager race crankset, which I'm to understand is a a rebranded Truvativ crank.
For a bottom bracket, it uses an SRAM Giga X Pipe (GXP).
The crank is a two-piece press-fit: it's a hollow tube press fit into the drive side, with ISIS splines on the non-drive side.
I'm trying to disassemble the crank and bottom bracket, so that I can clean the crank and crank spindle, and replace the bottom bracket.
I've unscrewed the GXP bearing cups and removed the crank from the frame, but there's this one last little component on the crank spindle that's keeping me from removing the rest of the GXP bottom bracket. I want to know how I should remove it so that I don't damage the spindle. I'm not sure what the part is, or if I'll need it for installing the new GXP bottom bracket.
Here's a shot showing the crank, spindle, and GXP bottom bracket as it is right now:

And here's a close-up of the spine, showing the collet I can't get off:

Yeah, I know it's a mess; that's why I'm trying to disassemble and clean everything and replace the GXP bottom bracket. That grease isn't grease anymore, it's more like metallic paste. Yuck.
I've already tried some light tap-work to try to get it off; it didn't budge, but I didn't go hard because I don't know if I'll damage it. Also, interestingly, it spins very freely in place.
In summary:

I'm replacing the GXP bottom bracket in whole, so I don't care about destroying it or old pieces that came out of it.
Do I need to preserve this collet? Did it come from the old GXP bottom bracket?
If I do need to preserve it, how do I get it off?

If I don't need it, I plan on trying to tap it off with screwdriver and a hammer; if that doesn't work, then cut it in half and split it open.

Also, since a few other people I had asked had been confused about this - the drive side of the spindle is permanently press-fit into the drive side bracket / crank arm assembly, since it's all one piece. Here's a picture:


texts: I broke my rear axle, apparently it's an old style. Is it easily replaceable?

texts:
My rear axle broke so I took my bike into a shop to see what they suggested. I had read a few posts that had said it should be fairly easy to replace the axle. The guys in the shop said that because my frame is fairly old (1980s) it would be hard to find one that was the right length and connected in the right way (apparently there are 4 different types?). I think they might have said that because the current wheel doesn't have a free hub it means you need a longer axle to fit over the cassette, which might also make things harder?

They said the easiest thing to do would be to buy a new wheel and suggested the Halo Retro (http://www.halowheels.com/products/part/RMHAR76S).

My two questions really are:

Would it really be so hard to find the right axle if I know what the length of the old one is?
If I should get a new wheel is the Halo Retro a good choice? A few reviews I've seen say it's pretty good and it sounds like it would suit the bike but I was just wondering if there were any cheaper options.


texts: Restore faithfully to original condition, or soup it up?

texts:
I just got a bargain on a stripped Cannondale road bike frame, and plan to make it simply awesome. (As far as I can tell, it's a 1997 Cannondale R500 or R1000). So far, I've only powder coated the frame to give it a shiny new paint job.
I'd interested in opinions here - Should I restore it as faithfully as possible to the original condition? Or should I improve on it, upgraded gearing, disc brakes, etc.
Which would version would have the higher value, in your opinion?


texts: Indoor cyclist keeps popping out of clips

texts: I bought a pair of Shimano indoor cycling shoes with two hole cleats to wear during my spin classes.  Unfortunately, during my classes, I snap out of the clips.  I know part of it must be my form but I think another part is that the clip isn't held in like mountain bike shoes are.  Is there a way to buy an attachment to make mine more sturdy. I know there must be something, but I can't seem to find it!


texts: Tick sound on every pedal only for 5 minutes

texts:
I am having a new MTB Montra Rock 1.0D 2016.

When I ride my cycle, for first 5 to 10 minutes, I hear a tick sound on every pedal when my pedal is at 3'o clock to 6'o clock position on my right foot.

After few minutes, no noise at all and everything is quiet and smooth.

Next day, same happens for first few minutes.

I couldn't figure out source of the tick.

Also to note that, when cycle is standstill, no tick sound at all when moving pedal with hand, not for few minutes also, means no tick at all and thats what I want.

If i ride cycle, then only I hear tick for first few minutes

Can anyone help me?

UPDATE

BIKE SPECIFICATION


texts: My white handlebar tape is an absolute nightmare to keep clean even using Sprint Spitfire Spray  and I don't have time in my life to keep on top of it. Are there any bar tapes out there that are very easy to maintain? The tape does not necessarily have to be white.


texts: Advice on carrying a video tripod on a bicycle, please

texts:
I wonder whether there is anyone who carries a video tripod (Manfrotto 525 - 75mm bowl head) on their bike, rather than a dslr tripod. The thing is that although I use a DSLR camera for my filming, I am often using long lenses and accessories such as monitors, lens hood, lights, etc and I need a sturdier tripod. DSLR tripods just don't cut it for the kind of work I do.
I like the mobility of a bike as I can be anywhere so quickly, but I would like to be able to carry a video tripod. I have seen some people using a pannier rack but I wonder whether a video tripod would be too much?
Any advice would be immensely appreciated.

Regards
Sam


texts:
I have an SRAM Guide brake (rear) that after bleeding, the brake lever won't return quickly.  At room temperature, this is barely noticeable, but when the temperature climbs, or the bike is in the direct sun, it takes about 30 seconds for the brake lever to return fully.
This happens every time I bleed it and lasts for at least a couple of weeks.  The front brake, bled the same way, at the same time, has no issues.
At first, I was thinking that there was too much fluid in system and when it got hot, the little bit of expansion would lock up the piston.  However, when I popped the top bleed screw while hot, only a little bit of fluid came out and the lever was still sticky.
I am now wondering if the tolerances inside the lever are too tight.  Once the barrel warms up, it shrinks enough that the spring can't overcome the friction...
Any other ideas?  Should I just give up and try a warranty return with SRAM?


texts: Why does a tire patch leak near the lip, and how to properly patch the flat?

texts:
I had a flat in my back wheel because the tire was worn out. I removed it and patched it as in these directions, except for the abrasion with sandpaper, which I never do. I put the tire back in and mounted the wheel, but it deflated again overnight. The leak is under the lip of the patch, which didn't completely seal, as in these pictures:

The hole was around 0.5mm so it is well covered by the rubber cement and the black area of the patch. I have patched many dozens of flats without this problem.

Why does the flat still leak? Is the orange area different from the black area, and does it have to be perfectly glued to the tire?


texts: How do self-adjusting hydraulic disc brakes work?

texts: I have Avid Elixir brakes on my mountain bike.  They are the only part of the bike that's a total black box to me.  I understand the principle behind disc brakes, and I understand the principle behind hydraulics.  I could draw a diagram of how this all goes together.  That said, I've been told that they automatically adjust for wear on the pads, so as the pads wear down, the braking action is the same.  Part 1 of the question: Is this true?  Part 2: How the heck does it work?


texts: I recently bought a Carreras centos limited edition mountain bike. I want to find out how to make my suspension bouncier and I want to experience a MUCH more comfortable ride. I have tried fiddling around with the knobs that say preload on them but it isn't making the ride any different. I am quite small and I don't know whether that is affecting the suspensions bounciness. Please help.


texts: How can I use my small flashlight as my bicycle's headlight?

texts:
How safely add my small flashlight to my foldable bicycle temporarily? I want use it as headlight. But I need take it off when I don't bike.  My folding bicycle doesn't have basket, and I don't want add basket.
Because COVID19, I don't want spend money buying light. My small flashlight has a handle.Let me know if you want me write out flashlight name and model.
Michael wrote below

In any case, please make sure to mount it in a way which doesn’t dazzle oncoming traffic.

Criggie

I'd suggest angling this down at the road more than forward.

OK! I know. You can adjust lumens, and I use just 80 lms in day and 800 lms at night.


texts: Protecting bike attachments such as lights against theft

texts: I was wondering what one could do to keep his bike attachments from being stolen. On Monday two lights were stolen off of my bike. I only had them for a day. It was the kind that has a rubber "strap" of sorts that goes on the handlebar. I only really care/want to know because they were fairly expensive...


texts: Can you use a 6/7 Speed Derailleur on a 5 speed bicycle?

texts:
I bent my derailleur beyond repair today. I'm an inexperienced cyclist.

I have a 5 speed Takara. Can I/Should I replace it with a 6/7 speed rear derailleur? I am having trouble finding a 5 speed one and the local bike shops are suggesting I just get a 6/7.

In addition, how difficult is it to install the derailleur?

Thanks.


texts: Electronic shifting for planetary gear hub

texts: Gear hubs are nice, but after getting a Rohloff I realized that shifting is extremely difficult and requires lots of effort. So this got me thinking: do electronic shifting systems exist for gear hubs? I know about Di2 for derailleurs, but what about geared hubs?


texts:
I have a pair of leg warmers, purchased from Performance Bicycle some years ago. They're still in decent shape, but the rubber or silicone layer at the top that holds them up has thinned. The warmers tend to slide down my leg these days.

Is there a way to re-create the layer that's meant to grip them to my legs?


texts: How much faster will I be if I lose 10kg (from 100kg, all else equal)

texts:
All else being equal (power output, weather, wind resistance, etc.), how much faster will I be if I lose 10kg (going from 100kg to 90kg) while riding?

Acceleration and climbing might be much different, but while riding steadily on a flatish road outputting the same power as before, how will my cruising speed change ?


texts: Can I reuse Jagwire hydraulic brake hose?

texts:
They were previously filled with Shimano mineral oil. Now they are to be re-purposed for dot 5.1 oil. Any issues with doing so?

Cheers.


texts: Replacing a crankset, do I also need to replace the bottom bracket?

texts:
I'm planning on replacing a Shimano FC-510 crankset with an FC-R7000. The bottom bracket has had light use (~2000km) and has no obvious play in it, however the videos I've seen showing removal of these types of cranksets suggest I might need to use a soft mallet to get the axle out. Could the crankset removal process damage the BB bearings, and should I have a replacement BB on hand?
Thanks


texts: While changing my bike chain, I noticed letters stamped on some of the links. The old chain (Shimano CN-HG53) has »OG« stamped on some links, while the new one (Shimano CN-HG93) has »RL«. Google doesn't find anything useful. Anyone knows what it means?


texts: What wheels can I buy that fit this Shimano UG 5 speed freewheel?

texts: I am refurbishing an old 70s/80s bicycle, I have everything ready but the wheels, what set of wheels should I purchase that will fit this freewheel from Shimano?


texts: My bicycle tire specification is 40-622 (700x38C-28x1 5/8 x 1 1/2), would you please tell me the right size of the proper inner tube?


texts:
Is it OK to ride the opposite way on a designated bike lane? I'm in Louisville, Kentucky, USA. The reason I ask is because most of the lanes near me are only on one side of the road. The picture below is an example of the type of lane.

The law where I live allows me to ride on the road, bike lane or not.

Is it better to ride the opposite way or ride on the roadway as you would if there wasn't a bike lane?

Edit: I added a different picture that better represents the bike lane. It is actually a two way street with one bike lane in one direction.


texts: Is there a good way to clean brake hoods?

texts:
I just picked up an old bike with white brake hoods. They are pretty gnarsty, covered in a greyish brown layer of filth.

I've tried a soapy rag and scrubber brush with elbow grease. It takes care of most of the issue, but they're not pure clean. Is there any trick to this?


texts: I've been doing some reading about all-road / adventure-ready bikes and I'm leaning toward the Trek SL5. I weigh 265lbs and the official specs say the total weight limit for bike, rider, and cargo is 275lbs. What would realistically happen if I end up getting the bike and ride on it for long distances over time?


texts: What Shimano jockey wheels are compatible with my old Shimano 105 9-Speed Derailleur?

texts:
I'm in the process of getting my Cannondale CAAD serviced, which I reckon is from about 2006 (I got it second hand). I have had the rear cassette and chain replaced, like for like, but the bike shop say the Shimano 105 9-Speed rear derailleur jockey wheels are very worn and may contribute to gear slippage and poor gear changing.

I can't seem to find jockey wheels specifically for the old 9-Speed 105 derailleur. Will the "Shimano RD 5700 Jockey Wheels" for the newer Shimano 105 10-Speed derailleurs be okay for use?


texts: Is it possible to find the actual GPS coordinates of roads, rather than the surface they're on?

texts:
I'm planning to do a bike trip, and it would be useful for me to know how much of actual climbing I would have to do. I wasn't quite sure to post it on travel.se or bicycles.SE, as it's also partly about trip planning.

I was wondering if it is possible to find the coordinates of roads, rather than the surface they're on.
I thought Google maps and or Earth might be able to do this, as they collect streetview data by car. But they seem to only use satellite data.
The difference is nicely illustrated at the bridge of Millau.
Here you can clearly see that the route calculations uses the bridge, yet maps this on the  ground surface.

Does anybody know any way to get the actual GPS coordinates of planned routes over roads?

Source: Google Earth


texts: I am looking for an affordable  folding bike with reliable warranty.  So far all the bikes I looked at have 2 weeks to 3 months warranty for frame and manufacturers warranty for parts, nothing like 5 years to 10 years warranty for their fixed frame counterparts. Why are folding bike warranties so short?


texts:
I want to buy a bike. I have a bike who may interest me, it is a Tri Bike 51cm. I was wondering if it was OK for me.
I know that for my height 53-56 cm is better but I'm only 115 pounds.
Would that be OK for me?


texts: What is the thread size/measurement of the derailleur barrel adjuster?

texts:
The barrel adjuster threads on my commuter bike's RD have been marred when the barrel adjuster got bludgeoned on a side crash and I want to chase the threads before screwing in the replacement barrel adjuster.

My derailleur is a Shimano Deore. (in case different brands have different stuff)


texts: What are good bicycle workouts for a runner?

texts:
I am a runner. I run half and full marathons along the year. All of the runners know that they should cross train and the best cross training is cycling. After achieving my long term marathon goal I will try to run triathlons.

So I need some bicycle workouts or full programs for training. Are there any specific workout types for cycling as cross training?


texts: Does it make you safer to use lights during the day?

texts: My bike light, the Cygolite Metro 360, has a "Daylighting" mode which flashes very brightly and is intended to be used during the day. Similarly, many tail lights have flashing modes. Obviously one should bike with lights at night. But is it advisable to bike with lights on (in flashing mode) during the day as well, to alert cars to your presence? Or does it not make much of a difference? If there are any scientific studies or data on this, please reference.


texts:
My current setup are using a full Shimano 105, medium cage GS 11-34t, crank are 50-34t. Through some digging, I want to upgrade the RD using Deore XT M8000 SGS Long, paired using wolftooth tanpan.
Based on tanpan product specification, it should work with 2 chainring setup with 11-42t sprocket. But I'm not sure. Is there anyone having experience doing this? Do I need change the crank to lower setup, a 46-30t?


texts: I have a square tapered bottom bracket which I am trying to remove but the fixed cup is proving difficult to loosen. The bike is a Peugeout Princeton from the early 90s. I have heard older French bikes are not reverse threaded, would this likely be the case for this bike?


texts: What kind of gear shifter is this? Single lever

texts:
I have this old bike that I'm taking a look at (ie oiling and whatnot) for a friend. The bike is old (maybe 20 years old), with this type of a gear shifter for front derailleur:

It has a single lever/handle thing that looks like it should slide around to switch the gears.

Could anyone tell me what type this is? I need to fix it (because it doesn't shift), but I'm not sure how to approach it exactly...


texts: I have just bought an old Vindec Ventura, With 27x1 1/4 wheels 32x630 rims. It looks like a hybrid but wondering if it was a sports updated. Any one any gen at all on this modelCheers all.


texts: What's the lowest safe cadence on a climb?

texts:
I recently installed a power meter and just used it to get up some rather steep 15%+ climbs.

At my weight and lowest gearing (34f 30r) at a sustainable power level for my fitness (225w) this translated to a seated 35-40rpm cadence.

Higher cadence would result in heart rates of 190bpm+ which I couldn't sustain over the climb without stopping.

This is MUCH lower than what I usually spin at (95-100) and while I made it up the hills, I am concerned that this could cause damage to my knees/body if I continue to do this without losing weight or increasing power. (Working on this :) )

I have searched, but there doesn't seem to be much on this topic.

A triple is not an option as I am doing this for fitness/fun and in the long run the compact I just upgraded to (50/34 from 46/36) will be enough once I get more KM into my legs.

These climbs were 1-2km in length with up to 130m elevation gain (Cat 4), but the question is more about doing this for extended amounts IE (Cat 1 / HC)

Standing for that long of a climb is not achievable for me at the current fitness level.

I didn't feel any discomfort in my knees, but everything I have read suggests high cadence cycling but I am not there fitness wise yet on these climbs.


texts: Is it possible to have a cover over your chain,cassette,derailleur and cogs to avoid regular cleaning?

texts: i was searching online for a product online but couldn't find anything.There are a lot of people creating new stuffs on crowd-funding projects like on kickstarter. I was wondering if if it is possible to have a cover on the derailleur system on a bicycle to avoid regular cleaning for the bike derailleurs,cassetes,chain,cogs


texts: Are chainrings specific to double or triple cranksets?

texts:
I have a 2008 Specialized Allez with a triple crankset. The large and middle rings were getting worn so I bought replacements of identical tooth counts for them. However, after installing them I found it was impossible to shift onto the largest ring no matter how I adjusted the front derailleur because the space between the middle and largest rings was just too wide.

So I removed the rings and compared them. The new large ring was identical to the old one but the middle ring was not. The tabs where the bolt holes are drilled in the old ring were thinner than the new ring. The result was this made the middle ring stand about 2 mm farther from the large ring, just enough to make shifting upward impossible.

Is it standard for middle chainrings on a triple to be thinner or was that just unique to the crankset used on the bike?  (It was the stock, unnamed crankset installed by Specialized.)


texts:
I'm trying to swap out the top jockey wheel on a rear shifter mechanism.

The bottom jockey wheel simply unbolted as expected but the top one seems to share a shaft with the main spring rather than having its own bolt.

I can twist one of the cage plates a complete turn but it doesn't unthread anything.

I can see a steel nubbin through a small slot, but its not shaped like a bolt head.

Is this Unserviceable?


texts: Carbon fiber fork scratched. Paint over or replace?

texts:
I'm new to carbon fiber in general. The other day my fork scraped up on some concrete. I'm not too worried if it's a scratch; however, I am worried if it means the fork is a goner. I've posted a picture of the damage. Also to add, the paint is about 2-3mm thick and I couldn't feel too much of a groove within the actual carbon fiber. It was merely a scratch and if I had to assume at the worst then .5mm deep into the carbon fiber portion.

Thank you for whoever answers!


texts:
I bought a Trek FX Series 7.5 in April 2017 and ride every day for about an hour. Two weeks ago the crank arms suddenly gave around the bottom bracket and no longer stayed 180 degrees to eachother. I "fixed" this at first by simply tightening the screws on the crankarms. Last week the problem recurred and I took it to a bike store.

The repairman showed there was actually a spacer in the bottom bracket which broke off, which caused the BB and crankarms to wiggle side to side slightly. He put on a new spacer, gave me the bike, but today the problem recurred.

I don't have any experience repairing more serious problems like this, so I have a few questions. Given my explanation and the photos provided, can anyone guess as to what the cause of crankarms not staying 180 to eachother is? Is it indeed a broken BB?

If so, is this the type of thing that is fixed or should the component be replaced? Should more components than just the BB be replaced?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: The picture below shows the problem in greater detail. The "spacer" I was referring to isn't part of the bottom bracket, but the crank arm. Also the chain ring bolt had broken/fallen off. The technician put a new chainring bolt and just screwed the crankarms on tightly. As a solution I have bought new crank arms, same model, both right and left. Thanks for the help!


texts:
I broke a spoke on my rear wheel the other day.  When I took it to my LBS they recommended replacing the wheel all together; stating that it could no longer be trued effectively because the spokes were "frozen" (basically they were difficult unscrew the spoke & nipple).  My wheels are original, as are the spokes and hub (except for the one replaced spoke).  They also mentioned that my rear cassette and chain was about to wear out and brakes needed to be removed and cleaned because they are sticking.

The stock rims are bontrager nebula 6000 series (622x15).

In the land of replacement wheels what would be and equivalent wheel?  Should I consider getting a new hub as well?

Is it worth (I know subjective) having all this work done simultaneously?


texts: Shimano brakeset hood model compatibility

texts:
I am trying to find out if shimano brakeset hood have compatibility with different brakeset.

In my specific case, I have a ST-2200 but can only find arround hood for ST-5800 or ST-6600.

Is their a compatibility of hood for different brakeset model?

Thanks!


texts:
I repacked a front hub I haven't worked on before and can't get rid of the clicking. (It wasn't clicking before I repacked it, just sluggish and overdue for an overhaul.) Bike is a 2016 Kona Sutra; hubs are Shimano Deoro.
I adjusted the cones so there was minimal play that went away when I reefed down the QR, and got constant clicking when I spun the wheel and put my ear next to the hub. Figured it was grease starvation. (This is the first hub I've owned that has dust covers you're not supposed to remove when cleaning and repacking. Not a fan; I like to see how clean the bearing cups are and know exactly how much grease I'm putting in.)
So I took the hub apart again and squeezed more grease on the bearings.
Re-adjusted for minimal play when lightly mounted, and none when reefed down. Clicking's reduced now, but still audible when I spin the wheel and put my ear next to the hub.
I gave bearings, cones, and cups a thorough eyeball inspection when I cleaned them; nothing dramatic there. (I suppose they could be pitted or brinneled at a magnified level, but I wouldn't expect that to cause this kind of noise.)
Any ideas? Thanks.
(PS: While researching this issue, I've twice found references to the same problem on Shimano hubs. One answerer said, "That's just Shimano; live with it." Another on the other post said approximately the same thing. Any thoughts about this, Shimano people?)


texts: What are the main differences in Giant's Toughroad and Revolt drop-bar bike series?

texts:
I'm at a bit of a loss trying to decide what sort of a (Giant) bike I should be looking towards.
I used to have a Ribble Sportive 7005 from 2014 to 2017. I am now looking for something that would enable a better posture for a longer (50-150 km) ride on gravel, compact dirt, and tarmac.
Firstly, I'm looking at Giant because it's one of the few reputable companies that offers anything in my area that I'd feel comfortable going with—including one of the only ones that have at least a slightly relevant model for trying out.
I've been looking at the Giant's Revolt series, but the differences between the various options are not very well described by the company:

Toughroad SLR GX: "When you’re unsure what lies ahead—smooth roads, gravel or dirt—and you relish the adventure of quiet backroads, this is the bike. With its lightweight aluminum frame, drop handlebars and rugged, high-volume tires, you’re ready for anything."
Revolt: "Over half the world’s road are unpaved, offering ample opportunities for adventure on gravel, dirt and scenic byways. This lightweight aluminum all-rounder is the perfect way to explore roads you’ve always thought about but never ridden."
Revolt Advanced: "Almost anything goes in gravel racing and riding. It’s a mixed-up challenge of speed, endurance and handling. This high-performance all-rounder does it all. It’s smooth, it’s efficient, and it’s your new best friend for pushing limits on roads, gravel and dirt."
Revolt Advanced Pro: "Almost anything goes in gravel racing and riding. It’s a mixed-up challenge of speed, endurance and handling. This high-performance all-rounder does it all. It’s smooth, it’s efficient, and it’s your new best friend for pushing limits on roads, gravel and dirt."

I tried a comparison on the Giant site, but it wasn't particularly helpful except for highlighting that the Toughroad SLR GX should be worse in nearly every category. It helps to know that the technologies marketed below in the Giant comparison table relate to bike construction techniques.

Though the Toughroad SLR GX isn't marketed under the "Gravel" category, the description mentions relatively poor road conditions, and in the shop I went to, it was described as the "lower level Revolt". Some other companies (Kona and Bianchi) don't make such a Gravel/Adventure distinction.
road.cc lists the Revolt 2020 model as one of its "best gravel & adventure bikes" while bicycling.com goes out of its way to make clear that the Revolt Advanced is not a touring bike (which to my ears is synonymous to adventure/gravel). Instead, bicycling.com recommends a non-drop bar Toughroad SLR as a touring bike (and even one of its best)—which makes no sense to me. Meanwhile, Specialized Sequoia Elite which is described in this review as "Gravel" (but coming out worse than Giant's Revolt Advanced) is marketed as a "touring rig" by Specialized so there's some overlap here.

I've now also received the specifications for the Giant 2021 range:

How important are the differences between these Giant's adventure/gravel drop-bar series'? Are any of these more suitable by their configuration for specific usages (e.g., racing, touring, forest-riding, etc)?
Please note that answers which say "Go out and try them all" are extremely unhelpful in today's climate where a) many bike shops have been bought empty (e.g., Pelago everywhere), and b) some shops don't offer options for trying bikes in any case (e.g., Kona in my area). I was able to try a Giant Toughroad SLR GX for about 10 minutes, but that doesn't tell me how it would feel going for the 100th (nor the 20th...) kilometre.


texts: base training with or without added energy?

texts:
I am trying to build some base strength in the winter, doing some endurance training. I am mostly following the TrainerRoad Base plan (which seems to be similar to the Bicycle Bible).

So I've tried to do a couple of 2-3h sessions per week. Should I add any energy during such a session?

I read that one would get better fat oxidation doing water-only rides, but would also get more tired, and experience a longer recovery time.

Any advice? I'm training for one 300km race, if it matters

Edit: i mean some added sugar to the water bottle, bars or gel.

Edit2: found this http://triathlon.competitor.com/2014/06/nutrition/inside-triathlon-magazine-fat-burning-machine_31034
This guy seems to do a mix and add energy after 2h.


texts: What happened to the Specialized Stumpjumper HT?

texts:
I have always been a fan of Specialized, especially the Stumpjumper hardtail. I was browsing the Specialized website when I noticed that they no longer have the Stumpjumper Hardtail listed, only the Stumpjumper FSR. I did see that they now have a hardtail version of the Epic.

Did they just change the name from Stumpjumper to Epic? I really liked the name 'Stumpjumper'. What happened?


texts:
For a long time I was a happy owner of an Abus Catena chain lock. However, last night someone tried to steal my bike. Luckily, they either didn't have enough time, or the lock was too tough for them so they abandoned it after cutting through 0.5mm from two sides.

Now I am looking for a better, more secure and more deterrent-looking lock. These are my current options:

Abus Granit Plus 51: U lock, security rating 13/15, 13mm thinckness, 23cm height, costs 46€
Abus Bordo 6000: folding lock, security rating 10/15, 5mm thickness, 90cm length, costs 55€

With the first one, I like the better security. However U locks are sometimes pain in the ass to set, especially because I usually lock front wheel and frame to a stationary object. I am not sure if this is even possible with this U lock, as the distance from the inside of the rim to the inside of the frame is a little more than 20cm.

I like the folding lock, because it is more versatile. I can lock my bike to a variety of stationary objects, but it is less secure for sure. Also, it is a bit more expensive.

I will keep my old chain lock, as it is not damaged too much and change the outer skirt so that nobody knows it was damaged. I thing it should be OK as a secondary lock when I leave my bike overnight in a communal room.
Any ideas what could be a smart choice?