texts:
I was just now pedaling home in the bike lane when an oncoming car made an abrupt left turn in front of me. My rear tire locked up as I braked hard and narrowly avoided a collision.   The driver parked in a parking lot, and I considered confronting him but didn't think anything useful would result.

I would really like to be able to report such an incident right when it happens, especially if the driver is parked and police can talk to them.  Is there any recourse I can take when something like this happens?  Would it help if I had a helmet cam to document the incident?

This happened in Florida, USA.


texts: I now have 4 kryptonite keys on my key ring that I carry around for my family.  These are the ones with a black plastic bulb on the key's bow.  In order to make my life easier, I would like to paint it for easy identification.  What type of paint do I need to use along with techniques or other advise.


texts: XC (mountain bike) tire for dry hardpack and loose conditions

texts:
I am just looking for a a new set of tires for my front suspension mountain bike (has a newer nicer fork on it now).

I mostly ride in the Gatineau Park in Eastern Ontario.  The conditions are almost always dry.  There is quite a bit of loose gravel and a good amount of hardpack.  The terrine is pretty hilly and occasionally I find myself loosing traction on my rear tire while climbing.

Right now I am riding a pair of stock tires.  Both tires are pretty cheap.

Rear tire.
Front tire.

Am interesting in upgrading to get a bit more performance out of my bike.  Would also like to reduce the rolling resistance.

Couple questions:

What difference will more expensive tires make?
What width of tires will work best for the conditions described?
What price range is reasonable for a good set of XC tires?
Any other pieces of wisdom I should consider when choosing tires?
Any examples of good tires for these conditions.


texts:
I've been riding an early 90's Italian steel timetrialer (D'accordi TT0.9) for a few months, front tire has a slow leak that needs to be replaced.

The problem is that I can't get the bead totally over the rim.

It's the front wheel, a Campi (it says Lambda Strada on it somewhere), the tire is a 700x23c DSI I have no idea how old it is, though it doesn't seem to have a massive amount of wear.  I'm a bit of a noob on the bike maintenance front (trying to correct this), so while I think I understand how to get a tire off a wheel, perhaps I'm going about it incorrectly.

Basically I've used used a couple tire levers and gotten about 6 inches of tire over the rim, I'd post photos but I'm new so...), but cannot for the life of me get the lever to pick up the bead anywhere else on the wheel.  While I know from reading other things that other tires on these rims may well be easier to work with in the future, I'm currently faced with the more immediate problem. Does anyone have any advice for getting the rest of this tire off the wheel?

Update: Adding that, I can see the rubber tearing away around the bead a bit I try in vain to get the lever under the bead. Do know if this is relevant to my problem, but it is a bit worrying ...


texts: We were doing a volunteer bike repair clinic and came upon this bottom bracket that I've never seen before. It was on a trials bike and the crankset was destroyed but we couldn't find any way to service the bottom bracket and didn't have any matching cranks to replace it with. The bottom bracket was quite large and beefy and like like it would fit a one piece Ashtabula bottom bracket. Didn't end up fixing the cranks as we had no idea how to deal with this.


texts: App to use Mobile phone (samsung S4 mini) as bicycle computer

texts:
What apps to use if I want to turn my old phone into a bicycle computer? I want to view basic info all the time such as speed, trip time, total distance traveled etc.

Are there any apps which will save energy while showing these details?


texts: Why is it important to have good saddles? Other than the comfort in long rides.


texts: Does anyone have any special notes on buying pannier racks?

texts:
I have a 520 mm cro-mo vintage tsunado road bike. It has 27 inch wheels. I'm putting a pannier rack on the back *preferably steel, but I'll consider Al.  It doesn't have the upper mounts but the dropouts have fenders so there are points there. I am going to be using it for touring, commuting, even picking up materials for the construction I'm doing (if anyone knows how to load a 3/4 inch sheet of ply onto bike,  I'll be really surprised)  I'm sure that I'd like to be able to load at least 25kg on that.

I'd be very interested in any pointers on what to get.  I'd like to keep the price in the best bang for buck range,  function/quality nothing fancy. If there any thoughts on bags I'm equally interested - Thanks


texts: What do you do to cure road rash more quickly after a crash?

texts:
Crashes are an inevitability in cycling. This weekend, I hit a 4" stick on my bike. It flipped over, stuck in the spokes of my front wheel and did this to it:

It stopped my bike really quickly and I wound up flying over the handlebars, and earned a trip to the local ER where they spent an hour scrubbing the road out of my face, arms and shoulder.

So what tips and tricks do you folks have for recovering quickly (and without scarring) from road rash?


texts:
I have an old race bicycle and the front wheel got flat (hole somewhere)

it has the following tires:

28 / 32 - 630 (27 X 1 1/4) HS 159

I bought twice of these:

2 x Schwalbe Marathon GreenGuard Draht Reflex Reifen 27 x 1 1/4 | 32-630

And also a pair of these:

Schlauch Schwalbe SV 15, 27/28x3/4-1 1/8" 18/28-622/630, SV40mm

Looking carefully on the package, it doesn't list 28-630..  the closest is 28-622 or 25-630..

I'd like to know if the tubes are suitable for the tires, because they looks something shorter:


texts: I don't race and never will race. However, I am very interested in learning more about it. I read a number of cycling magazines, and I read about so many different racing terms, strategy etc. but they are never explained. Does any know of a good source (like a Bicycle Racing 101 course) where I can learn more about racing?


texts: I have an old cruiser bike that I paid $100 for. The tire popped and the other has a flat but other than that it's ridable. Any way I can sell it? And if so, best website/company to sell it to?


texts: Issue replacing Avid BB7 disc brake pads

texts:
I just replaced the brake pads in my BB7 disc brakes for the first time.

I read up, watched videos, til I grasped what I was doing, and tried more than a handful of times. On the front brake, I can clearly see (with the wheel removed) that the pads are in a V position -- having a narrow gap further inside (the part harder to see), and a wider gap towards the outside. I assume this is just because of the way they sit around the spring.

The problem is, while the narrow part of that gap is (barely!) wide enough for the rotor, I can't get the rotor lined up in it properly. Even when the pads are dialed all the way out, and the caliper bolts are loose, it's hard to manually align it so there's no rub.

So, I tried all kinds of approaches, but in the end, here's something that doesn't seem right, and I can't figure out what's up:

1) Loosened caliper bolts
2) Turned pad dials all the way out
3) Turned outside pad dial all the way in (this was an experiment, I know it's not the right approach)
4) Turn inside pad dial til rotor is snug
5) Tighten both caliper bolts, a little at a time
6) Turn both pad dials all the way out

Even in this case, it was the outer pad that rubbed against the rotor and the inner one had a big enough gap. Again, I know that's not exactly the right approach, but after not getting the outer pad to pull back enough off the rotor, I tried this, and am not sure where to go from here, since the outer pad still won't back off enough.


texts: How to open the top cover of a Shimano Tourney ST EF 41?

texts: My 3 speed gear shifter is stuck. I want to open the cover so that I can clean the old lubricant and dust and apply new lubrication. There are no screws on the top and I am not able to open it even from the bottom. How do I open it?


texts:
I have a 2019 Giant Contend 3 road bike and I have been having an issue with this bike on and off for the past month. The issue is that when I start pedaling the bike it vibrates. The vibration seems to be coming from the rear wheel. The vibration also makes a squeaking sound, which occurs once each time the rear wheel makes one full rotation. When I speed up the vibration goes away but I still feel some resistance in the rear wheel. Moreover, when I engage the rear break the vibration comes back very strongly.
I went to a bike mechanic when the issue first arose and he told me this was a problem with the bearings in the rear wheel and recommended that I replace the entire rear wheel as he didn't have any spare parts to fix the bearings with due to the coronavirus supply shortage. I went to a different bike shop and they managed to fix the problem. Everything was fine until today when the problem came back.
Does this really sound like a problem with the bearings in the rear wheel? If so, what is wrong with the bearings to produce this vibration and what is the cheapest way to fix this problem permanently?


texts: What is the potential danger of riding bicycle with cracked chainstay and how to fix it?

texts:
I got a bicycle that has this big tear in the chainstay.

Is it safe for city riding? What is the potential danger?

What could someone have done to cause this kind of damage?

Most importantly what is a good procedure and material to use to fix it?

Thanks


texts: Tire pressure with latex tubes: higher, lower, the same?

texts:
I have just mounted a set of latex tubes to try it out - inside a set of s-work turbo cotton 26 mm on a regular roady.

You notice the difference immediately. The feel is just very different. In front of my first longer ride tomorrow, I would like to get opinions on the air pressure. From what I can glean in this and other forums, there seems to be some confusion or different opinions in regards to pressure in comparison with butyl tubes:

higher: you can run latex tubes at a higher pressure since the comfort is better. +100psi.
the same: it all depends on your weight and preferences.
lower: in order to get the most out of the flexibility in the latex ironing out a rough surface, run it at a lower psi.

I would love to get some opinions on this. Perhaps some trustworthy sites with recommendations for tire pressure.


texts:
This page is for a general answer and it consists of at least two main parts: personal experience and technical part. The technical parts are perhaps the two hardest parts.

Has anyone attempted to make a cargo trailer for their bike? How did you do it?  How has it worked? How long did it take? Would you do it again?

Technical parts with their own separate questions

How can you make a trailer hitch between a bike and trailer?
How can you attach/mount a wheel onto a trailer?


texts:
I have plenty of near-miss incidents. Most of the time I just awkwardly cycling along with the 'near-miss' driver* (urban, so plenty of traffic lights). And it truly feels awkward!

This time I tried to approach the driver, just to say if he/she ok. The problem with near-miss is that I am usually shaken, for obvious reason. I believe the driver would feel the same. So I thought it would be best for both to stop and talked about it, make sure that both of us is OK to continue the journey, rather than keep thinking about the incident.

One time, the male yells at me I shouldn't be on the road, albeit he was in the wrong?? Another time, the female driver bursts into tears saying sorry??

Is approaching driver after near-miss is a bad idea??

*'Near-miss' drivers in my area are usually considerate, but they are human and prone to making mistakes. If he/she is inconsiderate, I would just shrug it off. This question is not about angry driver at all.


texts: I need a new wheel for my bike. I do not know how to tell what the rim size is. My tire size is 700x23c. It is my back wheel. I tried to have it trued which started breaking the rim. Rim finally broke all the way and is unusable now. I have asked local bicycle shops all they want to do is quote price of rim. I know I can find a cheaper wheel online if I knew what to look for. Any help is appreciated.


texts:
So in the shop they asked me "what chain do you need" and I said 7. They said "you could try this 6-speed, it is half the price of a 7, and we put it on 7-speeds all the time". I said "ok", only to determine later that my bike is 8-speed. (Excuse: I never use the several highest cogs).

I know "higher-speed" means just that the chain is thinner, fitting the recommended chainring, plus any other with less cogs (because there is more space between the cogs).

And, as expected, my bike now makes all kinds of clicking noises and skips. However, upon inspection, the chain does not rub the chainrings. It fits tight, but does not touch the other chainrings.

I will probably replace the chain for a correct one, but before that I would like to know what is the cause of the problem (the skipping).

EDIT: some more detail
We are talking a $300, used regularly for three years. Of it, only the chain has been replaced - twice.

If needed, I will post a photo tonight. Just ask in the comments!


texts:
This is my city bike:
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/escape.3/18736/76133/#specifications

Currently I use trekking bars and the MTB style shifter/brake set that came with it. If I wanted to convert it to STI brifters as far as I know all I have to swap are the bars, levers and brakes. Is that correct? I'll leave it as a 7 speed and use the tourney brifters, I'm just trying to see if I need to swap any other parts.


texts: What accessories do I have to add to my bike so that I may commute during rainy weather?

texts:
I have a hybrid (Schwinn Sporterra) which I use for commuting except when it rains. The main problem of riding it during the rains is the dirt that gets spewn all over, esp over the drive-train. Cleaning it and re-oiling the whole thing is a painful hour long process. Due to this I tend to not take my bike out when there is a chance of rain. How do I get rid of this problem?

I do have some plastic fenders, but they do not cover the wheels fully. If I get new metal fenders which cover most of the wheel will this problem be solved? Do I have to get any other accessories?


texts: Upgrading Joytech hub from 8 speed to 10 speed

texts: I have a Joytech hub and I'm planning to upgrade from 8 to 10 speed. With my Joytech rear hub, do I need to change my hub first and does my hub support 10 cogs?


texts: Can I use a bike for commuting 10km everyday at Jönköping (Sweden)?

texts:
I'm a French student going to Sweden for one year and I would like to know if I could use a bike to go to school even in winter for less than 150€ (or 1500 SEK).

Is it possible without having a bad time when riding and or will I fall every five seconds due to icy roads?

If it's possible I would like to know which type of bike should I use and if I have to add accessories like studded tires or tire chains.

Here's an average weather of the city:
https://weatherspark.com/y/78217/Average-Weather-in-J%C3%B6nk%C3%B6ping-Sweden

And some details about my route:

Start altitude:                  102 metres
End altitude:                    111 metres
Maximum altitude:                129 metres
Minimum altitude:                93 metres
Distance:                        5.1 km
Total ascent:                    54 metres
Total descent:                   45 metres
Maximum gradient ascending:      5% at 1.7 km
Maximum gradient descending:     6% at 0.6 km


texts:
The derailleur on my sons mountain bike is mangled, how do I know what to replace it with?

I understand they aren't one size fits all.

There are 6 sprockets on the rear cassette and 3 on the front.


texts: Doubts about Tire compatibility on my wheels?

texts:
I want to get a pair of 26 x 2.1  tires for my Bicycle.
My wheels are compatible with these dimensions.
A reputable store near me offers 26x1.95 tires. I am pretty sure that 1.95s are compatible with my 2.1 wheel.
The issue is, these are marketed at tires for a single speed bicycle of theirs. Mine is a 21 (3 x 7) speed bike.

From what I can tell, the wheel matters in matters of compatibility with the gearing, and not the tires as long as it is compatible with my wheel. But still, to be extra sure, does it matter that these tires are marketed for single-speed cycles as long as they are compatible with my wheels ?


texts: Can an IGH have the same maximum overdrive-ratio as a crank-sproket setup?

texts: Is there an IGH that gives one the maximum overdrive-ratio that one might get with a 39-53T crankset and a 11-34T freewheel? If not, what is the mechanical roadblock in making one ?


texts: What is this rubber ring around the top tube for

texts: I have seen these on a few bikes. What is the purpose :S


texts: What is a cheap puncture-proof tire against tackweed?

texts:
Lately, each time I ride my bike around the Bay Area, I get tackweed onto my wheels where upon one or both of them flatten overnight. Most of those are five minute rides to my local library. So, I have had to replace the tube at least ten times already for a two-month period. Details of the situation:

Road Bike that I got from Costco.
Tire is 700x40c, Kenda (42-622)

I'm not very verse in bicycles, but my final solution is that I need to find a tire that does not get punctured by tackweed. My problem is that I have not found such tires at a cheap price with the right size. By cheap price, I mean something around $25-30 if able; otherwise, I would alright with something less than $70 as long as the size can be fitted onto the rim.


texts: Are there devices to moderate speed on mountain descents without braking?

texts:
In my neck of the woods there are some mountain descents that are pretty substantial: say 600 meters vertically averaging 7% grade, with lots of curves and other obstacles like potholes. Typically the surface is reasonable-quality asphalt; I have a touring bike.

I’m curious if there are techniques or gadgets to moderate my speed, in order to lessen the need for braking (e.g., in a car one can downshift).

As a back-of-the-envelope, computation, consider a 110kg rider/bicycle system coasting down a 7% grade at 50km/hour, or about 13 meters/second. Due to the grade, for every horizontal 13m, s/he descends 0.91m vertically; hence, every second, the potential energy of a 110kg mass dropping 0.91m is added to the bike & rider system and must be removed in order to not accelerate. That potential energy (U=mgh) is roughly 980 joules; i.e., the cyclist must dissipate about 1kW in order to not accelerate.

This surprises me; it seems like a lot of energy to be dumping into the environment. But it's on par with what can be produced by racers to reach similar speeds on the flat.

What I don't know how to compute is how much energy is consumed by air drag, mechanical friction in the bicycle, rolling resistance, etc., to know really what extra a slowing device would need to consume.

One thing I thought of was a dynamo hub; but those seem to consume less than 5 watts, which would make no real difference.

(I should add that I know I shouldn't brake continuously all the way down. My question is about whether there are additional things I can do or add to the bike to bleed off speed.)


texts: Are modern forks compatible with older style bikes?

texts:
I have an old 10-speed bike (likely 80's vintage) with a threaded fork. Can I replace it with a modern threadless fork with the style of stem that slides over the top of the fork and clamps on? I know I'd need to replace the stem and handlebars too and am happy to do that.

What do I need to look for? Is the diameter of the head tube different with newer bikes?


texts:
I'm trying to find a good floor pump for my Raleigh Talus 3.0 bike which I recently purchased. I don't know much about bikes and have seen that there are different valve types (i.e. - Presta and Schrader) that a bike may possess.

How do I distinguish a good floor pump from a bad one and how can I tell if it is compatible with my bike in terms of its design and features?


texts: Can I convert a road frame to a mountain bike?

texts:
Some years ago, I picked up a Cannondale R3000 and moved all the components to my current bike as an exercise in bike building, never repeated (in fairness, the Cannondale fit me a little better but my beautiful 1998 Klein has such a sweet, sweet paint job...). I've been putting the frame on Craigslist off and on for a few years, but no one seems to want to pay what I'm asking. Regardless, my current MTB is an all-mountain beast that I bought before I knew my riding style, and I'm thinking of picking up a more cross-country steed.

Times being tight and all, is there anything preventing me from building out the Cannondale road frame as a mountain bike? Obvious [potential] answers (e.g., tire clearance) are good, more involved ones (e.g., frame robustness) are too. I'm trying to get a picture of what might lie ahead in this venture.


texts: Has Shimano produced Ultegra 600 Hub Set, 32 hole?

texts: I found this item at an online shop, but can not find infomation about this product. Anyone knows this hub set? and any review infomation available there?


texts: Can I replace a 3-gear crankset with a 2-gear one cheaply and efficiently?

texts:
My commuter bike (a cheap-ish MTB) is in need of new gears. As I never use the "granny chainring", I was thinking about switching to a 2-piece crankset, to save tome weight. However, I am unable to locate such parts in my favorite on-line bike shop.

Are 2-chainring cranksets direct replacement to a 3-piece ones? Are they affordable or are already some sort of exotic expensive equipment?


texts:
I'm into bikes for a long time, but I still haven't got how to do maintenance of the bicycle myself so I only know how to change a tire and put some grease on the chain. I'd like to know the list of stuff I should check in my bike and how to fix/update it in different situation.
I know, it's a really deep question that need a lot of typing, so I rather expect you share some links on reliable sources that fully cover the question.


texts: What skills and techniques are required to descending at high speeds while maintaining control of the bicycle? How does this change when the roads are wet or have gravel in them?


texts:
I'm sure this question must have already been answered somewhere here, but it doesn't show up in any search results I make...

I'm changing the pedals on a 40 year old bike. Pretty sure the pedals are original. The left one came off fine. Unfortunately, I got the thread directions mixed up and tightened the right one by mistake!

Now the right pedal won't come off at all. When I apply force to the pedal wrench (in the correct, counter-clockwise direction), the crank just backs up, and the pedal doesn't budge.

I have two questions:

Short of making the trek to my LBS (which is a little out of the way) what are some ways I could try to get the pedal unstuck?
Is there some way to immobilise the crank? I don't think I have the tools necessary to take the arm off the bike.

Things already tried:

Penetrating oil in the screw.
Hammering the wrench.

Things I don't have the equipment for:

Heating the screw.
Lengthening the wrench.

EDIT: An additional note: It seems the reason the pedal wouldn't come out is that there's something wrong with the threads on the crank. I can't get the old or my new pedal to go in past the second turn. Going to have to take it to the LBS anyway...


texts: Clarification needed on hydraulic disc caliper and lever compatibility

texts: I have a Scott Solace road bike that uses Shimano BR-RS805 hydraulic disc calipers.  The hose spec is BH 59. I want to change from drop handlebars to Jones H handlebars.  I will need new brake levers.  Can I use a mountain bike hydraulic brake lever with a hose spec of BH 90 and use BH 90 hose, if I use the olive and insert for BH 90 on the lever end, and the olive and insert for BH 59 on the caliper end?


texts:
I have a 2015 Giant SCR2. That has Shimano Claris. Outdated by now 2x8. I’m thinking of an upgrade to Shimano 105 5800 or Tiagra.
Which one will fit and do I need to change the wheel?


texts:
I wonder has anyone had any experience using the Cateye Strada Smart in Mirror mode and uploading the ride directly to Strava.

I am having problems with the data on Strava being different than on the Cateye Atlas site and am wondering if anyone has solved this problem already?

Thanks in advance.... :)


texts: Replacing mountain bike bars & stem with drop bars

texts:
I have a mid-1990s Specialized Rockhopper. I've trashed the flat bars that were on it previously and I want to install drop bars, but to make that comfortable for me I'll want a shorter and higher stem.

So I need to purchase:

A short riser stem that will fit the mountain bike's nonthreaded headset correctly
A set of drop handlebars that will fit the stem's clamp

but I am lost in measurement purgatory. I've measured the diameter of the tube to which the stem will clamp (with a measuring tape): outside is 28mm and inside is ~25mm. Ok, great! Let's go check out some stems...

...uh.

So the last measurement (80/90/100/110 mm etc) is probably the length of the stem, and the degree is the amount of its rise. What on earth are all of the other numbers? What types of stems usually fit this kind of bike? Are there drop handlebars that usually fit this kind of stem, or do those tend to be a different diameter (because they usually go on road bikes)?

What on earth are the measurements I need to be shopping with?


texts: Why are handlebars the diameter they are (22.2 or 23.8 in grip area)? In general, the best diameter for grip strength is where the hand around the grip has about 1mm from the tip of the middle finger to the palm (this rule is used to select tennis racquet grip diameter for example). Sounds like the usual handlebar diameter is too narrow for optimal grip for most people, even with thick wrapping tape. Any reason for this?


texts: Lube new sealed bottom bracket (BB-UN55)

texts:
I have a new sealed bottom bracket, a Shimano BB-UN55.  Does it come with lube, and if so what kind of lube would that be?

I assume it's already lubed, because how would you lube it without taking it apart.

There's a little oil on the splines and spindle, but that might just be to keep it from rusting while it's sitting on the shelf.

(This is my first time working with a sealed bottom bracket; up til now it's been all cup-and-cone.)


texts: Repair superficial damage to a carbon frame

texts:
I have a carbon frame with an integrated seatpost. The saddle sits on a clamp that is meant to secure the saddle on the seatpost and NOT hold the weight of the rider too. I went on a ride and my knees started to bother me, so I went to adjust the height of the saddle and after reading the torque number for the binder clamp, realized I was shit out of luck and was going to either raise the saddle and risk damaging the carbon fiber or let it be and hurt my knees more.  I of course chose to raise my saddle. So now I have some nasty gouges where the clamp rubbed the length of the seatpost.

I have spacers in place now to raise the saddle to the correct height but now I have some ugly scratches that are visible just below the binder clamp.

So, the question is, what should I use to keep the surface carbon from cracking more and to seal it up?  I have been told to use either paint(not sure what kind) and to use a clear nail polish. Thoughts?


texts: Why are my handlebars difficult to turn in one direction but not the other?

texts: Very odd thing.  I can turn my handlebars more freely in one direction that the other.  It feels like it's rubbing against something inside when I turn it in the "bad" direction.  Any ideas?


texts: 10 speed Shimano freehub to fit an Ultegra 6800 wheel

texts:
I’ve put a CS HG800 11-34 11 speed cassette on my ultegra 6800 wheel, along with the higher capacity RD8000 GS derailleur. Problem is the cassette is actually made for a 10 speed mountain free hub so requires a spacer to work on an 11 speed road free hub. I got all that to work fine in the rear, but the spacer moves the cassette way out to the right and now the chain rubs on the front derailleur when in the smallest two cogs. I cannot adjust the front out anymore.

It seems the ideal fix would be to put on a 10 speed freehub, but the question is, which one?  I tried a 10 speed Dura-Ace 7900 (which uses the same 14mm bolt) but it does not fit the Ultegra hub - the spline diameter is different. Does anyone know if a 10 speed mountain free hub like the FH-m8000 fit the Ultrgra hub? Or some other solution.

Just one other comment: why does Shimano make so many variations of freehub splines when they all do the same thing!?!?


texts: Can I use a mountain bike to go bike touring?

texts:
I'm planning on going bike touring in S.East Asia. I've been planning which bike to get.

Companies like Thorn offer custom made bikes (specially designed for adventure-style cycle touring), but they somewhat expensive and I have enough expertise to build something similar myself.

I was thinking to use a mountain bike frame because they are designed to take more abuse than road bikes and I plan to ride on rough tracks.

A mountain bike seems to offer much of the ruggedness offered by a custom made bike, but then not being a bike designer there must be some shortcoming using it to carry luggage and over long distances.


texts:
I saw a bike with such a mudguard the other day. It was mounted on the seat tube and stuck straight out horizontally, between the two seat stays, over the brake and then over the rear wheel.

I liked the mount point because it means that the top of the seat tube is protected from crud, unlike seat post mounted mudguards.

Does anyone know where I can buy such a mudguard? Or who makes one like it?


texts: Road cyclist keeps popping out of speedplay pedals

texts: I've been riding for years and suddenly I've developed a problem with my right foot involuntarily popping out of my speedplay pedals.  New shoes/cleats and new pedals did not help.  I've even been checked out neurologically.  Any ideas?


texts: I'm looking for a Campagnolo hood like the one in the photos below. Will the newer ErgoPower hoods fit? If not, what should I do?


texts: Standing up, worth practising for a casual cyclist?

texts:
I have no interest in racing, for me a bike is a mode of transport or a pleasant way to enjoy the countryside.

Currently, the only time I ever stand is to accelerate from stationary or for a very short, steep hill... I can't do it for more than about 30s and it ruins my legs!

Friends of mine say they never stand, us it something that's useful to practice or really only for racing? Does it perhaps use different muscles so can be used to alternate with sitting on a hilly route or something, or is it fundamentally a hard core skill?


texts:
I'm adapting a derailleur to a bike by welding it onto the dropout.

By looking at other bikes it seems to me there is not a very strict specification for where the derailleur hanger goes. It seems to vary.

Is there a range of placement with respect to the axle that I should observe? Is it ok to have the hanger in front of the axle, instead of behind it?


texts:
Looking to adapt an old(er) set of FC-M952 XTR cranks to fit new chainrings (see here).

Looking at this auction - how would I determine whether or not I can use it? If it fits I'd also need to buy 9sp chainrings compatible with same old(er) XT/XTR system.


texts: Currently I have a hard tail that I love, but I know that as I get more into mountain biking I'm probably going to want to upgrade. But I'm still pretty new to the trails. I'm wondering which you all think (this question is opinion based) I should buy: a Full suspension bike or just a full suspension frame, using the old components I have. I have a Diamondback hardtail, so yeah it's pretty cheap but I like what I have and the fork seems pretty good as far as I'm concerned. Also, I'm trying to keep a low budget (like under $1000)


texts: Long-arm vs short-arm v-brake linear-pull brake: understanding the sizing

texts:
When a manufacturer's linear-pull brake comes in two versions, a "short-arm" (82mm) and a "long-arm" (108mm) where/how is that measurement taken?

Is it merely the length of the brake from the tip to base?

Or is the measurement taken on-center from the top-bolt (up near to the noodle) to the bottom bolt (holding the brake to the frame)?


texts: Are there any downsides to cheaper biodegradable degreasers?

texts:
I’m after a cheaper (than the bike-specific brands) biodegradable degreaser for cleaning my bike chain.

I have found a few which are apparently biodegradable, however, I’m wondering if there is anything about non-bike-specific degreasers that could cause any damage to the bike?


texts: Can I upgrade cassette without replacing rear derailleur?

texts:
On my road bike, I have an old 8 speed Shimano 600 Cassette like this:

I'm not 100% sure about tooth count on each cog, but I think it's something like:
23, 21, 19,17,15, 14, 13,12 (probably?)

I'm having issues with the size of the cogs. Climbing even basic hills is very hard even on the biggest cog. (It's wearing out my knees).

Can I change the cassette to one with bigger cogs without replacing my rear derailleur? Or would I have to get a new derailleur also?

While at it, can I get smaller front chain rings without replacing the front derailleur?
I have 53T/42T chain rings.


texts: Front derailleur hard to move due to gear cable angle

texts:
To avoid chain rub on the inside of my derailleur when in the smallest chainring and in the biggest cog on the cassette I've turned the L-screw out / counter clockwise. Now the rub is gone but due to the angle the cable is pulling the front derailleur it is nearly impossible to get into the largest chainring.

Turning the L-screw in a bit more pivots the derailleur into a more horizontal position so that the force of the pulling gear cable is no longer towards the derailleur's center of rotation and thus can actually move the derailleur.

To fix this I'd probably need to either get the cable to pull from a position closer to A or at least to somehow generate some force towards A.

The other solution would be to turn the L-screw in again and avoid the chain rub in a different way.

How do I do that?

Tried:

I've already tried to move the derailleur on its braze-on mount.
I also turned the small chainring around so that the numbers imprinted are facing the outside.
I'm sure it's not about friction in the cables. Shifting works fine in both direction if the L-screw is further in.
The manual mentions that the little pin around which the gear cable is lead can be rotated by 180°. I've tried both positions, the left one improves the issue slightly.

Bike is a Cannondale Synapse Women's (Cann-S2), 9-Speed R3000 Shimano Sora, front derailleur: braze-on type.

The green line is the gear cable.


texts: How can I evaluate a used road bike i intend to buy?

texts: I intend to buy a used road bike, but don't know anything about bikes. So how can I buy a good one with a reasonable price? How can I evaluate the one I intend to buy? Thank you


texts: Am I too tall to bother modifying my old trek?

texts: I bought an old Trek 500 series road bike a couple months ago and have put love and parts into it but it's just too damn small for me (I'm 6'4"). All the post adjustments are at their safest limits. Are there mods or extensions worth buying to make it more comfortable/efficient or would it be cheaper/easier just to sell it to a short person and find a bigger framed bike? Thanks, J


texts: I am going cycle touring. What should I carry in my first aid kit?

texts: I am going cycle touring and I am packing a first aid kit to take with me. What items are essential to have in there, and what items are 'extra'? I have found it difficult to find clear information about this. I am thinking to take the usual: painkillers, fluid replacement, sterile swabs, cold medicines, anti-histamines, diarrhoea medicine. What else?


texts: Can't find information on Suntour XOR 100 fork

texts:
This Rockrider 540 MTB description says it has a Suntour XOR 100 fork. I am not able to find it on the Suntour website.

Anyone knows what does XOR stands for?


texts:
I've recently relocated to Arizona.  The place I am currently staying has no indoor storage for my bike, so I have to leave it outside, all day, every day, baking in this ridiculous 100+ degree weather.

Is this going to cause any long term damage to the bike, and are there any extra maintenance steps I have to do to compensate?


texts: Battery Draining for Forerunner music 645

texts: My forerunner's battery will drain big time if i pair it with cadence and speed sensor, anybody encounter same problem with me? Any suggested solution?


texts: Do stickers or paint compromise a helmet?

texts: Would sticking stickers on a helmet or painting them etc make a helmet less useful in a crash? Not knowing the science of helmets but perhaps stickers in the wrong place might make it not behave how the manufacturer intended during a crash (not breaking apart correctly)?


texts: Opposed cone chainless progressive 24 speed gearing system using belts, has it been tried?

texts:
I am wondering why on bikes I don't see them using a pair of opposed ice cream cone shaped gears such that a fixed length belt can be moved on them to change the gear ratio.  It would be cool if somehow the teeth on them could be recessed temporarily (perhaps using a cable) so that the belt could slide freely over the cones, then when the cable is released, engage the cones again.  This design would not be for everyone as there would be an interruption in power transfer everytime you would shift, however the same is true on most motorcycles where you normally use the clutch to shift to another gear.

The opposed cones could each have a diameter range of 3:1 for a total gearing spread of 9:1 so that the overall gearing could go from underdrive 0.5 to an  overdrive of 4.5:1.  4.5:1 would be similar to 50 tooth chainring driving an 11 tooth cog.  0.5:1 would be like a 20 tooth chainring driving a 40 tooth cog.  That range should just about satisfy everyone.

So my question is has this been tried and if so, why don't I see it in current bikes?  Has it been tried and it failed or is too expensive?  I would think (and expect) that with today's technology, Engineers could make this concept work.  It is similar to a CVT except that there wouldn't be infinitely many gears since the belt will have some thickness.  The cones need not be perfect cones but could just be "ramped" for each discrete gear.  For example, the cones could have 24 regions where discrete gear ratios could be engaged.  The advantage here is a simple progressive 24 speed and the final drive (perhaps another belt) can be made perfectly aligned and without any tensioner.

Here is a pic of a CVT transmission but my concept is slightly different as previously explained.

Also, just to clarify, my design would be indexed for 24 discrete gears, so where the belt touches the cones would be flat, not slanted like in this picture.  It would be cones with 24 flat regions basically.

I think it would be so much fun to ride a bike like this cuz as you would shift, you would have to pull a lever (like squeezing the clutch lever on a motorcycle between shifts), so it would feel a little like riding a human powered motorcycle.  The fun factor would go way up and I would be willing to pay more money for it.

Also note that with 24 evenly spaced gears, the ratio between adjacent gears would be about 10% which is a nice spacing and a 9:1 overall spread would be super fun.

Here are the ratios.  Format is sequential gear #, gear ratio:

1, 0.50
  2, 0.55
  3, 0.61
  4, 0.67
  5, 0.73
  6, 0.81
  7, 0.89
  8, 0.98
  9, 1.07
 10, 1.18
 11, 1.30
 12, 1.43
 13, 1.57
 14, 1.73
 15, 1.90
 16, 2.10
 17, 2.31
 18, 2.54
 19, 2.79
 20, 3.07
 21, 3.38
 22, 3.72
 23, 4.09
 24, 4.50

If someone didn't want to shift all these gears, they could instead skip gears such as go from 7 to 9 to 11... thus making it a speed super wide ratio 12 speed (21% between gears).  That would be fun too.

The indexed shifter could have 2 rings, one coarse and one fine.  The course would index 2 gears at a time whereas fine would index each gear.

Someone please make this bike in my lifetime so I can try it out.  It would also be cool if different cones would be offered so people could fine tune their gears such as close ratio (4:1) vs. wide ratio (9:1).  On the 4:1 spread, the 24 gears could be equally spread at only 6.2% apart for very fine tuning of cadence but with a good 12.8% between "double shifts".


texts: Center motor ebike costs more, is it worth it?

texts:
I am 90% sure that I will buy an e-bike. Today one of my friends who owns an ebike strongly suggested that I should buy one with center motor, because they are more efficient and battery life will be longer.

Where I live ebikes with center motor costs three times more than ebikes I found before.

Will it worth to buy a center motor ebike even it is more expensive?


texts:
Looking into buying myself a Brooks saddle, and have found two models that primarily differ in having what the descriptions call "single" or "double" rails.

What in the world is the difference, and why would I care? (Rhetorically: why aren't there pictures of the undersides of saddles so that I could work this out for myself?)


texts: What previous Shimano road shifters are 10sp and exit cables under bar tape?

texts:
I'm swapping out some parts on an old road bike I have to build it up as a winter/less cared about run around. Looking for what I can on auction sites etc., but the model numbers elude me.
I have a 10sp cassette and a compact double up front.
I need a pair of Shimano STI shifters for 10 x 2, and I'm looking for the models which hide the cables all under the bar tape.
So far I'm looking at 105 ST-5700 pair, and Ultegra ST-6700 pair. Is there a Dura Ace model, which I presume the Ultegra and 105 were originaly designed off, but from the year or so earlier?
ST-7801 appears to have the front inner side exit I don't want, and also the model number doesn't seem right to me but they never all made sense.
I don't know what the term for the cables exiting under the bar tape is to search for that, does Shimano have a particular marketing term for it?


texts:
I am looking to buy a new brand new bike but I'm not experienced at all with bike specs and quality and things to look out for etc. I have previously only had second hand really basic bicycles in my life that have done the job but I've always gone from issue to issue with then and I decided to stop putting money into a bad bike and spend a little extra on a brand new bike. My needs are not that extensive. I need a bike to go about 15km a day, 6 days a week to and from college. I'll be travelling on road surface but I don't really want a racing bike per say. My budget is 300€ but I have no problem (and I kinda wanna) spend right up the budget to get a bike that I know will last. What I really don't want to is to have problems of any kind (with the exception of flat tyres obviously because this is not the manufacturers fault) really in the first year or 2 of buying the bike.

What I have been looking at so far: http://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bikes/mountain-bikes/carrera-vengeance-mountain-bike-2011-2012-large-20#tab4

This bike seems to fit my needs but is it good? the reviews would lead me to believe that its no professional show stopper but its not gonna break in the next 2 years or so. It is also being sold from a respectable company (Halfords, not Carrera).

Bottom line question: should I buy this? Is it good?


texts: Correct tool to remove Uniglide freehub?

texts:
I have a coworker's rear wheel to repair.  The freehub pawls ceased engaging, resulting in free-spin in both directions.  A replacement freehub body is ludicrously expensive, so I want to remove the existing one and try a clean/service.
What is the right tool to remove this freehub body from the hub?

There are two slots, with a depth of 4mm and the shell has an internal diameter of 29 mm

A Park FR-2 has two tangs but they're about 7mm thick and will not engage.
A Park FR-3 has four tangs so will not fit.

I tried making a form-driver from some stout pipe by grinding it to size (essentially a really big screwdriver) and using the leverage of the entire rim, has broken the corners off my makeshift tool.

I am tempted to try hardening the ends of this pipe, but this is getting well off into the desperate category.

Here's my current collection of freehub and cassette fittings.  I was tempted to grind down the lugs on my FR-2 (front left) but that is hardened steel and may destroy its usefulness for regular usage.
What is the right tool for this job?


texts: Does the SM-BBR60 bottom bracket come in 68 and 70mm widths?

texts:
I ordered an Italian threaded bottom bracket, model number  SM-BBR60. The box has two check boxes, one for 68mm and one for 70mm. The 70 mm is checked.

My bike has a 68mm bottom bracket shell. Everywhere I look shows this model as only one size. But the checkboxes?

Does this bottom bracket come in two sizes? And is 70mm useless to me?


texts:
This is a Raleigh 06 grand prix. I've been trying to find a stem that gives me reasonable comfort. I ran a stem that didn't have the proper spacing and rode it a while observing a knocking sound with a little play in the handlebars. Eventually I got the appropriate spacers in and thought all was well. Then I saw this crack near the forks.

Was this likely caused by my stupidity? Is this a dire mistake or should I ride it cautiously and check regularly it to make sure it's not spreading? Is there anything I should consider doing to reinforce or protect further damage?


texts: Specs for parts on Giant Defy 4 (2013) to decide on upgrades to transfer parts onto another bike

texts:
I have a 2013 Giant Defy 4 and a new Montague Urban(UK)/Crosstown(USA) folding 21" 700c.

I'd like to make the Montague better for the occasional uphill commute home I do when I don't have access to a boot and a passenger seat (hence the folding bike) but I don't want it to be too appealing to thieves (however I don't mind making things appear cheap with mud and sandpaper!). It's built as an urban bike so the seat is comfort and the riser bars are for an upright position (so it's not great for a bent over wind resistant riding position). It only comes 7 speed with no front mech. Making the bike lighter would be lovely when I'm carrying myself and my gym stuff home, cursing at the geographically almost-guaranteed head-wind.

To that end I want to fit parts that would improve my ride (drop bars, better seat and anything else), but I'd rather buy good stuff for my Giant and then replace the not very good Montague stuff with the now surplus Giant stuff. (That's assuming the Giant hardware is indeed better.)

I can't find any useful info on things like the bars, which just say "Giant Sport 26.0" and which I can't find these on the Giant site. Roughly, the Giant is 10.7 kg and the Montague is 12.3 kg. Plus, without (what I consider to be) a reliable pannier rack option I carry the weight on my back. I'm fairly heavy and my road surface is fairly rubbish, I think I'm right to make weight loss a target for the bike ;)

Short of weighing the deconstructed bikes for parts, how do I proceed with this project?

A couple of things to note: I've already made the Montague look like crap by using permanent marker on the text, muddy water and strategically placed plastic carrier bags so it won't be too enticing to thieves - new fancy kit on it would make it a target; also I've got a couple of non-stock parts on my Giant: Shimano R540 SPD SL pedals and a Nukeproof Plasma Speed saddle.

Replacing a groupset in step purchases whilst this is a good post and will help if I come to adding a front mech or increasing the cassette, I am not primarily interested in replacing the gears - 7 speed is OK for the most part - I would probably only change it if the bars, stem and seat and drop levers if I change to drop bars. I'm more interested in making as big weight savings as possible and getting a more comfortable setup for reducing wind resistance etc. Though I'm sure once that's done I'll be wanting different gears!


texts: I have a seatpost from a Canyon Dndurace AL 7.0 from 2016. The seatpost has a saddle clamp consisting of two parts. The lower part has one long end and a shorter one. I can rotate both parts of the clamp. Which direction of the lower part should be forward facing? Also was I right in matching the upper part to the lower part?


texts: Can I use ZZ (steel seal) ball bearing instead of RS (rubber seal)?

texts:
TLDR: is 16100 ZZ (steel sealed) 10x28x8mm bearing good for 8.5inch wheel at 25km/h under 100kg load?
Long story, in case someone has better solution:
I am in process of replacing my rear-drive e-scooter front wheel because its so atypical I just can't buy tire/tube (weird size split-rim), so I snatched (almost) same size wheel of popular brand. New wheel had weird axle so I used power of hammer to get rid of it and... encountered a blocking bug.
Original wheel bearing: 6000 RS 10x26x8mm
New wheel bearing: 6001 RS 12x28x8mm
I can not reuse old axle, I can't use new axle, I can't find 12x100 bolt-axle (and even if I could, I'd have to drill out +2mm to fork holes).
After learning more about ball bearings that I am comfortable with, I found out that 16100 10x28x8 exists. Perfect match.
However I can obtain only ZZ (steel sealed) locally, RS (rubber sealed) would arrive after a month or two straight from Chinese factory. Ugh.
I know that sealing in bearing is important, and scooter wheel  is much closer to wet and dirty ground than bicycle. It will also spin quite fast as its beefy 25km/h+ scooter.
Me + scooter + baggage can reach 120kg, but speed drops at such load.


texts: Suggestions on buying a road bike for the city

texts:
I'm looking to buy a bike with which to get around Atlanta.  My budget is about $500.

I've seen lots of suggestions for a fixie but those seem relatively difficult.

I plan to ride about 5-10 miles a day.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Update:

I need a bike in order to get around as quickly as possible.  There are few hills, but pot holes and poorly paved roads are a problem.

I do not need racks or fenders.


texts: Advice on replacing a Weinmann brake caliper when the cable is fed from the bottom, please

texts:
I would like to replace a set of Weinmann brake calipers on a Raleigh ladies' bike with newer, modern and more efficient calipers like a dual-pivot one. The problem that I have is that the cable to the rear caliper is routed from the bottom, as seen in the attached images.
I have not yet managed to find a suitable dual-pivot caliper so that it would accept the cable coming in from the bottom and not from the top.
Do you know of a caliper that would do the job?
Any advice, help and/or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Which the function of this "thing" (photo) in Shimano XTR SL-M952 rear shifter?

texts:
Well, I bought this shifters (Shimano XTR SL-M952) and during the cleaning I found this curious detail in the rear shifter body (integrated to the clamp).
What is the purpose or function of this thing?


texts: How to prevent knee/shin guards slipping?

texts:
I am using plastic guards that cover knees and shins, like the ones displayed here:

My problem is, when I am riding, they sometimes slip down, reducing protection of my knees. This mostly happens because of vibration, while I am riding down (it's when I need them the most), but sometimes also when I am pedaling up.

If I fall down when my guards have slipped, it's as if I had no protection at all.

I noticed that on some days I get lucky with my straps and they sort of "stick" to my legs and don't move, while on other days I constantly readjust them, and they slip all the time.

How can I fix this problem?

I am willing to buy a different type of guards if that would solve my problem (however, I don't want soft/flexible guards - plastic has better protection).


texts: Ackermann compensation for tadpole trikes- how to work Peter Eland's spreadsheets

texts:
I am building tadpoles trike with "dual crossed drag link" type steering, and having been using the spreadsheets below to get the Ackermann compensation right.  I am however not really sure how to get best results. If anybody uses these, or had a more up to date/simpler resource to point me to, do let me know!

http://www.eland.org.uk/steer_download.html

I am also familliar with the much simpler "point your control arms at the rear wheel", but I am not sure how to apply it to a tadpole trike with drag link steering.

Thanks!

Edit:  Here's a picture of the Dual Crossed Drag Link configuration.

From (http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/5192-Crossed-Dual-Drag-Steering)


texts:
The area I live (NE United States) doesn't have a very large infrastructure for biking. There are scattered bike paths and they've finally completed a bridge that allows me to commute to work, but there's nothing like these in London or this one in Denmark. In fact, most of the time I'm sharing roads with typical American drivers ("Ooh! Look! A bicyclist! Let's swerve into him! I won't even have to put the cel phone down!"). In general, I like the solitude and the fact that often I'm the fastest vehicle on congested city roads (nothing like zipping by a line of cars stuck behind a clueless driver) but I've started wondering lately what it's like riding with a lot higher volume of other cyclists on the road. In general I avoid the bike paths in the area on the weekends because there's a disproportionate number of folks who seem ignorant of riding etiquette (slower traffic keep to the right, don't let your children lurch blindly into the path of other cyclists, etc.) but these aren't regular commuters.

Folks who ride in areas with much better infrastructure (doesn't even have to be a bike "superhighway") - do you find that higher volumes of commuters mean a worst commute for you personally? Does having a larger commuter "culture" help with other riders or is it just as frustrating as being stuck behind them in a car as they apply lipstick and chat away on the cel phone?

EDIT: based on some discussion below, an additional (yet related) question - are there considerations built in to the larger bikeways to allow riders to keep a faster pace (i.e., multiple marked lanes)?


texts: Do you need to open the calipers of a hydraulic disk brake in order to clean it?

texts:
I would like some advice about cleaning disk brakes. Recently when I've braked I've occasionally heard a noise as though air is being released, not a squeak or croak but it sounds like there is friction. Many of the roads I've been cycling on have been rough or muddy and I think that there could be grit in my disk brakes.
I've had my brakes serviced quite recently and so I don't think it's a problem of overuse or brake pads fading, they still seem to be responsive. I've read online what most of the steps are but I stil have a doubt.
Is it possible to thoroughly clean your disk brakes without opening the calipers on a disk brake and if it is necessary how do you open them? I'm guessing it could be necessary because I know that brake pads are found inside them.


texts: If I change my cassette to a different range do I need to change my chain?

texts: I have a Shimano 8 speed 11-34 cassette (one of those "mega range" ones).  If I change my cassette to a different one, say an 11-32, will I need to change or otherwise modify my chain?  I just got the chain replaced and now it's slipping on the old cassette.  I'm not the biggest fan of the mega range, so I wouldn't mind changing it out to something different.


texts:
I'm looking to get 3 family bikes functioning as well as possible. I've replaced all the cables, but now want to get the gears as close to new as is sensible.
All bikes old >10 years I would guess:Trek 4300, Kona Lana'i & Ridgeback mx24.
Initial Q is, apart from the chain & cassette, which gear  components degrade the most? Rear mech, front mech, shifters & chainring.
Trying to do a cost-benefit analysis.
Ta


texts: RST Aerial fork service - can't unscrew the bottom bolt

texts:
I have a problem with the RST Aerial fork service. I try to unscrew the bottom bolt (on the mechanical lock-out system side), however, the bolt spins in both directions and it is not possible to unscrew it. Is s there a way to unscrew this screw?

So far I've done:

I hit several times with a rubber hammer in allen key of screw
I used WD-40 for the screw
"fast unscrewing" - I used a drill-driver


texts: Dedicated bike GPS computer over smartphone

texts:
Yes, I know it's a duplicate of questions that have been asked before, for example this one: Are there advantages of dedicated bike computer instead of smartphone apps?

But I feel that most of the reasons given 8 years ago in response to this question have been invalidated:

The phone is larger → yes, but you still have to have it with you
glare → max screen brightness has improved a lot in recent years
not designed to sit out exposed to hot sun, extreme temps, and rain → not really true any longer, with the arrival of IP67/68 resistant phones
ease of use → new phone apps like Komoot, Strava, MapMyRide, etc. make the phones seriously better for bicycling than 8 years ago
battery life → much improved, with a new iPhone I'm getting at least 6 hours of use on the bike, and that's with the Komoot navigation on; for longer rides, it's easy to pack small power banks.

So my question to anyone who is still using and paying for specialized bicycle computers like Garmin and Wahoo, in 2019, what are you getting out of them that a contemporary smartphone doesn't give you?


texts: Is it ok to stretch a steel fork from 90mm to 100mm?

texts: I want to fit a 100mm front wheel on it but the current wheel seems to be 90mm wide..


texts: Shimano tourney 7 speed shifter for rear not working

texts: My bike's shifter for lowering the rear gears is not working. It just slide all the way and "click", "click" sound comes but gear does't shift to lower ones. Its currently stuck at the 7th gear and won't shift. The cable also appears to be a little loose. What should I do? Please help.


texts:
Hi I have a 12 spline left crankarm to replace but can't find the right-hand side crankarm.

got ok for 12 spline its just the size.

My one is TR7JAED 165


texts:
I have the seatpost shown in the pictures below. It came on a 2010 Specialized Tricross. It looks like Carbon fibre on the outside, but when you look at the open end of the tubing, it actually looks more like a thin layer of Carbon over a normal Aluminum tube.

I have two questions:

Am I correct that this tube is mostly aluminum with just a bit of carbon outside? If so, why would they even bother adding the Carbon? Just for show?
If it is mostly Aluminum, would it be acceptable for a long bike tour? From a durability perspective, that is. The reason I ask is I just got a new bike that came with a pretty basic metal tube with a hard to adjust seat clamp and less offset than this Carbon-wrapped one. I would prefer to use the Carbon seatpost from my Tricross since it has the offset I'm used to and a nicer seat clamp that's a bit easier to adjust fore/aft position and tilt separately.


texts: Is it cost-effective to upgrade an old-ish Giant Escape R3 commuter bike with entry-level branded parts (wheels, drivetrain)?

texts:
I'm currently using a 5 year-old Giant Escape R3 (2015)(https://www.giant.co.jp/giant15/bike_datail.php?p_id=00000060) hybrid bike that I bought used (down to $400 from $500 retail price) from a bike shop at almost-new condition (I suspect it was a display/trial model). Thus far I've replaced most of the cables once or twice, cable housing and chain once, and have replaced 2 broken drive-side spokes from the rear wheel (trued by eye). I've also swapped out the mostly bald stock Maxxis Detonator tires with a pair of Schwalbe Marthon GreenGuards. Before then I've had to patch up at least 3 rear tire punctures and am still using all-stock tubes since they still seem to hold air just as well. I'm not religious about cleaning, but I do general maintenance every couple of months particularly after the rainy seasons.

At this point I'm wondering if the following "upgrades" would be worth it:

Wheels: Swap stock Spinforce (no, not really) Lites  to an entry-level Shimano set like the RS100 ($100). They're the same price as the R501's but I prefer the simpler look (11S spacers also come free).
Inner tubes: Swap patched up brandless inner tubes for something fresher like a pair of Panaracer RAir's (2x$11). Do these butyl/latex hybrids hold air for long?
BB: Replace questionable VP BC73 with a Shimano BB-UN55 ($19). I do get the occasional clicking/knocking feel when pedalling really hard uphill, but don't notice any play when wiggling by hand.
Crankset: Replace stock Prowheel 48-38-28 crank for a similar spec Shimano Acera M361 ($44).

That's as far as the more reasonable changes go. However, I'm also wondering if it would be nice to actually upgrade the groupset ever so slightly (newer Altus, Acera, Alivio mix). Like changing to a 9-speed cassette and replacing the old Altus EF51 shifters with something that doesn't wreck shifter cables. Note that the rear derailleur is also pretty banged up after a few rainy day crashes, but still works mostly fine.

I do eventually plan on buying a higher-end road bike for long trips and commuting, but will retain this one for grocery runs and whatnot. Though this will definitely still be my commuter for at least the rest of the year. Already picked out a pannier rack and some new grips with bar ends.

Any advice or recommendations are appreciated!


texts: Is a fatter tire likely to get fewer flats

texts:
Everything else equal is a fatter tire likely to get fewer flats

Actually misread another question
Is a bigger wheel likely to get fewer flats?
So I am posting this question to match my answer


texts:
I have noticed there are a huge number of rims available for sale. Some are cheap, some are expensive. Some are intended for rim brakes, some are intended for disc brakes. Not all rims are available with all possible spoke hole counts.
How should I select an optimal rim for my uses?


texts: What's the best way to shield a rider from the wind in a group (most aero position in the group)?

texts:
Yesterday I caught up with a much stronger rider who was struggling with an injury but really wanted to finish.  Moral support aside, we tried to get him on my wheel on the flats (which happened to often have a headwind, so even at 20-25 km/h it was well worth it). Up and down hill it seemed better to go independently. But we met up with some other friends so there were 4 of us in total.  This gives a few more options.

The rider in question was tough and I'm sure could have done it without help, but in another club/context I could find myself trying to look after a rider who was in real need of an easy ride back. In case it makes a difference, let's assume from yesterday that we're happy (and practiced) with riding pretty close together, but not race-peloton close

How can  we  best position ourselves (in a small group) to shield the injured rider?


texts: I have got a bike as a birthday present. But I can not find it on the official website. So can you help me identify the bike please? I wonder if it is the original Bulls bike or replica. Also wonder which model it is. Thanks in advance


texts: Hey my right gripshift won't turn, need help

texts: My mongoose bikes right shifter won't shift, it's too hard or stiff and the wire that connects to the gripshift is loose which isn't normal because the left shifter is in place and not loose and works. So any help would be appreciated.


texts:
I have a Schwinn Volare 1200 Youth Road Bike that need Inner Tube replacement...However, the 26 x 1.0 measurement of its tire is so hard to find. So, Is there any other measurements that can be used as replacements?

Thanks


texts:
I am interested in buying turn signal lights for bicycles. I read something about here and in other websites, but I did not find answers for the following questions:

For the point of view of a driver, is it better to use a hand signal or if a turn signal light?
Is it safer? How much (are there any statistics)?
What are your personal opinion? I think a bit difficult to balance while making signals with my arm, so I thought about using these lights. Since cars are not familiar with bike in streets (where I live at least), I thought about using a super strong turn signal lights.
Do you recommend any particular type?


texts: Can't figure out the correct wheelset size for my Raleigh Rush Hour to replace the stock wheelset

texts: I'm trying to order a new wheelset for my Raleigh Rush Hour.  The problem being that my bike is at a friends right now and it might stay there for a bit,  I can't remember what frame size I have and I was wondering if the Rush Hour's wheelset changed size based on frame size or if they all just had the same wheelset.  If all of the frame sizes roll with the same size wheelset then I can order based on the stock wheelset.  Anyone know anything about this?


texts: What do I do if I get chain lube on my brake pads?

texts: I was being extremely stupid and accidentally applied a little chain lube to my brake pads? I tried to sand them down a little and cleaned the disc rotor with rubbing alcohol, but the performance is still lower than normal. Is there anything I can do to save them?


texts:
I recently changed the brake pads on my Shimano 105 (ST-R7020), and when pushing the pistons back, I felt a "pop", and the pistons moved back with no resistance at all.

After using the bike for a couple of days, the brake now does not work anymore. It has become very "spongy" and does not maintain the pressure. I can pump it again, and then it keeps pressure for a while, but then soon loses pressure.

I have tried bleeding it again, without success. I fear that something is broken in the brake lever - something that would normally prevent the spring between the brake pads from pushing the oil back in the reservoir.

Since a new brake lever is expensive, I was hoping someone would know how to fix it? Or know where to get spare parts for the brake lever, instead of having to buy a completely new.


texts:
I'm looking at replacing my wheels on my Cannondale Synapse, and I can get a pretty good deal on a set of Renolyds 6 bolt hub wheels, but Shimano does not make a 6 bolt 140mm set of rotors.

What I'm curious about is the suitability of some of the other manufacturer rotors (Avid, others ? ) and their compatibility with the 785's. I have some trepidation about using something other than Shimano rotors considering the importance of me being able to stop.

Is this something I should worry about?

Should I get the centerlock hubs so I can use their centerlock rotors (+600 bucks)?

Thanks.


texts: I'm just getting into the biking world and I am in the market for a better bike than my current Huffy bike. I'm looking on Craigslist and I came across a 1980 Schwinn World Traveler bike for $120. Obviously I will be trying to talk down the price but is this going to be a solid bike? Or should I shop around a little more and find something better. If it helps I can post the link to the craigslist page. Thanks for the help!


texts: I got a new inner tube but it's letting air out

texts: I've tested the new inner tube overnight, to check whether it's letting air out, and it does. Is the tire damaged or the inner tube?


texts: Hub rebuild - cone dust cap conflict, hub integrated vs pressed on cone?

texts:
I had to rebuilt the rear Joytech hub on my 2008(ish) Schwinn High Timber after I broke the axle:

My hubs have a integrated dust cover which consists of a rubber diaphragm that is pressed into the end of the hub and has a opening for the cone:

The cones on the new axle have dust covers on them (the old ones did not), but the opening on the hub is larger than most I presume:

At first I was going to remove the pressed on one from the cone.  I figured if I left them both on there then the rotating integrated one would be sliced apart from the sharp edge of the one on the cone.  So what should I do in this case, or remove the one pressed on the cone?  A quick look at the hubs on JoyTech's website suggest that all the ones with the rubber diaphragm do not use the metal ones on the cones.  Considering this, I'm leaning to removing the ones on the cones.

I just happen to have a new stock spare wheel for this bike that I'm going to use in the mean time.  Here is the photo of it as a reference:


texts: Mountain bike crank hits derailleur cable

texts: Just bought my first bike and it was put together by the store. I was wondering if this little cable/wire is okay, it's hitting my pedal every time I’m riding. It doesn’t really bother me, but I don’t want it to end up messing something up really bad. Help please new bike owner


texts: Is there a reason that velomobiles aren't made in a prone design?

texts: So I just recently began looking at making my own velomobile and I designed a prone position reverse trike. I was having trouble converting my design into real dimensions and decided to look and see if anyone else had already built something similar. When I did I found that there were practically zero examples of a prone velomobile. What i'm asking is why everybody goes for the standard laying down position, and why nobody goes for the prone position?


texts:
What are the factor(s) that would make the brake lever of a hydraulic brake become stiffer over time?

By stiffer, I mean that the lever becomes more difficult to pull, it offers more resistance and I need to exert more force in order to apply the brake.

By time, I am thinking a month or so following a service, with only moderate riding in the meantime.


texts: I would like to know if there is any brand that sells cyclocross bikes with front suspension. I would like to buy the Specialized Crux E5 but I also like the Trek DS 4 but this one is flat and I want it from road.


texts: What features should I look for in a new wheelset?

texts:
I am building a custom bike and I can spend $500-$1200 on wheels.  What are the best features on a set of road wheels?

It would be nice if they were lightweight for climbing but I live on the flats so aerodynamics are also important.  Basically an all around road wheel.


texts: Shimano crankset with FSA bottom bracket?

texts:
I have just taken off an FSA crankset from my Orbea Avant M30. The bottom bracket is a BB 86/92. I would like to replace with a Shimano crankset, an Ultegra or 105. Do I need to change the BB to a Shimano or can I use the existing one? It seems to be in good nick.
Thanks


texts: Remove front derailleur without breaking chain

texts: I recently purchased a Diadora Orbita bike from SportChek. As I was riding it my front derailleur got bent and now I can't use my pedals. So, my question is, can I remove the Shimano FD-TY18 front derailleur without unlinking the chain? I don't have a chain breaker, so my only option seems to be to remove the derailleur without unlinking the chain. Is it possible?


texts: Options to fix a stripped driveside BB thread- Shimano BB-93

texts:
I removed the BB (Shimano BB-93) from my Canondale Trail and found the drive side thread is stripped on BB and frame.
See  and
What are the options for me to replace the BB?
Is there an alternative part which will reach the good thread or other alternative?
I'm aware there could be a machining/welding/tapping option, but would guess that would not be worthwhile on an ageing bike.
Are there any alternative parts I could use?
Sheldon Brown mentions a Velo-orange option that clamps in place, but if possible I'd like to keep my recently replaced Hollowtech II crankset if possible
I'm baffled by all the combinations, hoping someone has been down this path already and can suggest if there's a practical solution.


texts: Loud cracking/creaking sound only when cycling uphill

texts:
I've bought a new road bike with disk brakes from Canyon (Endurace AL Disc 8.0) and have it now for a month.

Since the beginning it makes a loud cracking/creaking noise. It sounds metallic, almost like the noise you get when placing a bike upside down, spinning a wheel and bringing it to a full stop instantly with the disk brakes. I sounds like it is coming from the front wheel, although I'm not so sure of that.

The noise only appears, when i cycle uphill at a rather steep gradient and especially when I stand up on the bike. The noise is consistently triggered when the right foot is at its lowest point. I can also eliminate the noise by sitting down in my saddle and applying a more constant force to the pedals.

Unfortunately it's quite hard to tell where the noise is coming from since I have to be climbing a hill in order to hear it.

What could be making that noise and how do I fix it?


texts: Can I replace a Shimano RM30 8-speed freehub with an RM33 without any fiddling?

texts:
I have a Trek 4300 mountain bike with a Shimano RM30 8-speed freehub that's slipping badly.  When I search for a replacement, some places seem to interchangeably suggest the RM33, but I was hoping someone could confirm that the RM33 is a drop-in replacement.

(The reason I haven't just bought another RM30 is I can't seem to find an 8-speed RM30 replacement- perhaps the RM33 supercedes it?  I can't tell.)

Thanks!


texts: Does it make sense building a wheel using a 2 or 3 cross pattern and aero (bladed) spokes? Or are aero spokes used with radial lacing only?


texts:
So a bit of chai latte (yes, it was mine; I don't like coffee) got spilled over the front of my bike yesterday (NOT MY FAULT, I swear). My bike didn't care... but my combination lock did. The numbers don't want to move independently of one another now, and don't like to line up properly either.

Cleaning suggestions? I honestly have no clue.

Possibly related: "How to deal with lock that keeps jamming" (but that's for a U-lock, not a combo lock)


texts: What rear shock will fit my Scott spark 2009?

texts:
Can anyone tell me what rear shock will fit my 2009 Scott Spark 60?

I brought the bike second hand with the wrong rear shock, because of the current shock the geometry of the bike is incorrect.

It is meant to have a Manitou Radium RL, I cannot find measurements or specification or a place to buy this shock.

Any help will be gratefully received.


texts:
I just had my rear tire replaced at an -- admittedly shady -- bike shop, and now the upper part of the rear brake is rubbing against the lower part of the tire:

The yellow dust on the picture results from the friction between the tire and the brake.

However, the wheel is the same as before replacing the tire and the axis seems to be correctly centered:

Brakes are lowered as low as possible. I'm really at a loss here, so I'll be happy to hear any suggestion.


texts:
I want to calibrate my Park Tool TM-1 for my weird spokes. I want to build a box with some kind of weight measuring device where a spoke can be put under 1600N of tension.

Rumours on other boards say that using a spring scale would yield wrong results, because the spring would move while measuring. I don't quite know if that is true or not?

Because I want a cheap solution, I don't want to spend 50 euros on a digital scale. Now I found a "butcher's scale" on ebay here. Can I use that for my purpose, or will it also yield wrong tensiometer reults? I don't really understand the rational behind a spring scale messing up the results. Can someone shed some light on this?

Edit: Here is a picture and the discussion from some other board.


texts:
Hoping someone can help me as I don't know much about bikes.

I bought a 10 speed bike at a garage sale which the owner said was custom made by a bike maker in St. Louis, MO.  She said the frame was chromoly steel.  The frame has the name "Behring," which I assume was the builder, and there is a label on the bottom tube which says "Columbus Tubing."

Is anyone familiar with a bike of this description?  I have some pictures if that would help.


texts: Are there any Male to Female DI2 wires / exetensions?

texts:
I know you can use a junction port (ie: SM-JC41 Internal Junction Box B) for this, but are there any Male to Female extension cables?

Root Cause: R600 to 5 port junction for a TT setup near the base lever (Magura's so can't use the standard integrated TT brake/shifter)


texts: I have a 2013 Scott CX Team Cyclocross which has an FC-CX50 Crankset.  Unfortunately, I cannot afford a road/triathlon bike right now and I have been using this for triathlons.  I now have road tires on it which has helped a lot but am tired of being passed spinning away maxed out.  I am looking for the cheapest option for an upgrade and I thought that I could look at switching the Crankset's Chainring to a 50 from a 46.  That should give me a little more speed.  I am pretty new to bike mechanics and I did not want to order a chainring till I was sure it would work.  Would someone be able to point me to a Shimano unit that will work or is this even possible?  If so, can I assume that I will probably need a new chain as well?  Thanks in advance.


texts: How does one revitalize chrome lugging without harming the finish of the paint?

texts: I have an older bike that's in the middle of being rebuilt and I need to take care of the chrome.  The paint is still on the bike so I need to be careful of any chemical or physical processes that may discolor or destroy the finish.  How can I best get that mirror finish back on my pitted lugs?


texts:
I am cycling on the highway these days, dealing with tremor of my handlebars or a slight loss of control resulting from either oncoming vehicles or the high winds.

I'm wondering how pro cyclists manage, especially if my bike could be modified and the suitability of mountain biking versus road biking against these conditions.


texts: Gatorskin Wirebead vs Folding (Which gives a smoother ride)

texts:
This isn't your usual wire bead vs folding question, I realise whenever anyone asks folding always comes out better.
I've just renewed the rear tyre on my Specialized Tarmac from the factory S Works 700x24C for Gatorskin 700x25C (wire bead as it's all the shop had) and it's like putting Nike Air shoes on my bike.
I live in Cornwall, UK it's quite rural and the roads can be bad, and the good roads the council likes putting stone chippings down which destroys the surface, changing to the Gatorskin as make the road so much smoother.
I now want to replace the front as well which isn't so urgent, if I invest in a folding will the ride be more/less smooth or the same?
Many thanks and stay safe.


texts: What is safer...coaster brakes, rim brakes, or fixed gear braking?

texts:
I currently have a 'regular' bike, i.e. a bike with hand rim brakes but I've been more fascinated recently with single speed and fixed gear bikes. One of the reasons that I've held off on getting on is the braking.
How does coaster braking and braking on a fixed gear bike compare to rim brakes?  I live in NYC and want to make sure that I can brake in all situations!


texts:
I'm looking into buying a commuter bike. Observing other bikers I see some are hunched over their bikes and some are almost vertical. What is considered the best position for commuting?
[I will be commuting about six miles in NYC (mostly flat save for the bridges); I will not be carrying a lot of luggage]

Also a dumb question what attributes of the bike contribute to the rider's position? Is it just the ratio of the height of the seat to that of the handlebars?


texts:
I hope this question isn't too subjective or open-ended, but I would like to know what I should look out for when buying a beginner mountain bike.

My aim is to ride off-road and downhill tracks, but I don't know what type of bike I should be looking at.

Should I look at a hardtail or do I get a second hand full suspension bike?

Are there specific brands that I should look out for or stay clear of?

Any other tips that you might have would also be greatly appreciated.

EDIT

As per the comment below I am adding some more details.

The trails that I am looking at is more the foresty type single tracks. The way I am going to get to the top will be to take a back-route that is more open view.

For all intensive purposes the forest scenario will be ridden the majority of the time, but I will surely do open view rides as well.

EDIT 2

With the current exchange rate as it is I would say that my budget is roughly in the $1000 range.


texts: What is the size of the front axle nut of the Supercycle Hooligan?

texts:
I was riding my bike one day and saw my font wheel axle nut on the right disappeared.

I tried to find replacements but none of them fit, I don't know the size of the nut so I cannot find one that fits. I got some nuts that were similar size, but they were 24t so it didn't fit, online people are selling 24t and 26t so I think mine is 26t but I am not sure.

The bike is a Supercycle Hooligan with 24" tires. Measurements preferred in mm but inches is fine too.

Btw, if I cannot find any online is it a good idea to 3d print them? I have a 3d printer and I can print in PLA or PETG but not sure if plastic would be a good idea to hold the front wheel in place.


texts: 52/36 Chainrings for Ultegra 6750 crankset

texts:
I have standard compact (50/34) crankset. It seems to be to small for finish on flat stages. I am going to replace chainrings for semi-compact.
I've found that absoluteBlack offers products for older crankset like mine
Premium Oval 110 4bolts

Do you know if there are any other chainrings (52/36) for 110BCD 5 bolt which fits Ultegra 6750 ?


texts: Can I damage my brakes by testing them vigorously?

texts:
My understanding is that it’s important to regularly test one’s brakes, by grabbing the lever and squeezing it hard, perhaps all the way down to the bars. The theory is that if they’re going to fail, it’s far better that they do so on the workstand than during a panic stop.

My question: does this testing itself cause wear or damage? And if so, how can I mitigate or compensate for it?

To clarify: This test is designed to see if anything is broken, not tightened sufficiently, etc., rather than “do the brakes stop the bike”. For example, this weekend I discovered that the cable had worn down over a corner [aside: I have an appointment to re-route the cable] by breaking it during this test.


texts: Plastic taste in my backpack water bladder

texts:
I've seen various suggestions as to how to remove the nasty plastic taste but it still seems to be the overriding taste.  I've tried bleach, vinegar, lemon juice, water purification tablets, bicarb.  I'm almost at the point of giving up and assuming that I'm ingesting carcinogenic chemicals. It isn't branded like camel-back etc.

If anyone has any other suggestions I'm all ears.


texts: What are the standard shifter designs and mechanisms?

texts: What are the standard shifting methods?  I only know the shifting dial on flat bars and the old fashioned levers on ten speeds.  I'm not asking about when to use a particular gear but the mechanics of shifting methods.  Thanks.


texts: Late 90s mtb with shimano ig chain, trouble buying cassette

texts:
So I have really difficult time finding parts. I need to swap the rear cassette to a new one because the chain and some sprockets are worn out. However I can't find ig cassettes anywhere and I don't understand any of the numbers.
The bike was bought 1999 or so and has 7 sprockets rear and 3 in front. So 21 speed. It's been well maintained so I don't want to get rid of it now. I recently bought 2 ig chains (kmc z8.1) for spares and did maintenance and replaced other bits. So I have a bit of sunk cost fallacy going on here too. I think the front sprockets need replacements soon too.
Is there a 7 speed cassette out there that is compatible with my ig chains(kmc z8.1)? Some sram, kmc or cassette maybe? Could I use hg 7 speed cassette with my ig chains? Or do I need to just suck it up and swap to hg parts? And what all hg parts would I need? Or just buy new bike?


texts: Milian Pere - Brompton child seat - installation instructions

texts: My Milian Pere - mount to allow attaching a child seat to a Brompton folding bike - arrived in the mail today. This piece of hardware attaches to the Brompton. How do I attach a saddle to it so that my son can ride in it, which is why I bought it.


texts: What do I need to replace my singlespeed freewheel cog?

texts:
As I learned in this question, the cog of my freewheel are damaged and should be replaced.

I've been searching for some information but I'm still not sure of what I need. At the beginning I though I just needed to search for a cog like this with 1/8" like my chain:

But reading the description it seems like it's only for fixed gears, so I was completely worng. Searching for more items under the single speed category in the website everything looked like that.

What do I need to buy as replacement?

This is how what I have now:

As tools a I just have the basics, when i search for freewheel remover I see hundreds of different things like this:

 ...

How can I know what I need?

Update with photo of the wheel:


texts: V-brake arm not returning to "open" position

texts:
I have a folding bike with v-brakes and I noticed that when I pull on the rear brake lever, one arm of the v-brake doesn't go back to its original position. I tried adjusting the screws but it still doesn't go back. Although I'm not entirely sure if, when it stays in place, it hits the rim.

What could be the likely cause of this? The spring? Lubrication? Thank you.


texts: What is the correct language for talking about cyclocross?

texts: Just a small one that has me stumped. In a newspaper article where I live in New Zealand there is a picture of guy riding a cyclocross bike with a caption saying that he is mountain biking. I realised I don't know the verb for riding a CX bike, is it simply called cycling or mountain biking?


texts: I'm trying to replace my brake pads but when I try to push one piston in, the other one will come out and when I push it back in the previous one will do the same... how do I fix this so that both pistons remain retracted?


texts: What are the advantages of 4 arm cranks for road bikes?

texts:
Are 4 arm cranks the future for road bikes?

What are the advantages?


texts: How to configure an Avid Speed Dial brake

texts:
I got this brake lever on my new bike and I am looking help how to configure this. I do not know what purpose the red screw has on the top I reckon this has something to do with the name "Speed Dial" but I cannot figure it out, neither on Google nor on YouTube. I just get shopping links but nothing like an instruction.

Since this is the first time I am using a disc brake I would like to know if the back small wheel (where the brake cable comes in) has the same purpose as it has using V-Brakes?


texts: How durable are road or hybrid tyre tubes compared to mountain bike tyre tubes?

texts:
The context here is that I'm using a mountain bike to commute and I'm considering buying a hybrid bicycle or road bicycle.

I'm experiencing various issues that require repairs and maintenance. Perhaps the most time consuming being punctures.

Even if the road or hybrid bicycle is faster, I'm afraid that this benefit will be negated by the time lost on more frequent repairs.

I have no idea how these punctures/tears happen, I try to be careful with curbs and avoid any debris I can.

How durable are hybrid bicycle tubes compared to mountain bike tubes?

Another (and perhaps more correct) way of phrasing the question is to ask, what is faster for city commute where there is a lot of curbs, uneven surfaces, traffic, and similar challenges. A hybrid bicycle or a mountain bicycle, when factoring in the maintenance/repair time cost as well as the speed?

As a bonus question, how much faster is a road/hybrid bicycle anyway? Are there any studies that look at average speeds in typical city commutes? Obviously they would need to look at the exact same route and be somewhat serious, not just being marketing blurbs.


texts: How can I remind myself to lock a rental bicycle at the end of the ride?

texts:
In city where I live, shared bicycles have a wheel lock, which is unlocked by a mobile app what starts the rental period and which has to be locked manually by pushing the lever back to locked position to end the rental.

It already happened to me twice that if there was something or someone distracting my attention when I was putting the bike onto its stand and taking my backpack, I forgot to lock the bike and the rental period continued running.

What habit (maybe purely in my mind or maybe even accompanied by a physical token?) can I develop which will effectively and early remind me about the forgotten operation of locking the rental bike at the end of the ride?

(More information about this particular bike sharing.)


texts:
A month ago I bought a Scott Aspect 60, and for about a week everything was ok. Then, I started hearing a noise coming from the crankset.

First thought was that it was the front derailleur - after adjusting, the noise is still here.

Next, I tried cleaning the chain and lubricating it - didn't help with the noise.

The noise happens regardless how I pedal - sitting on the bike, standing, on a stand, forward, reverse.

If it means anything, the noise is gone if I remove the chain.

The noise is more-less constant, something like clicking, but irregular, perhaps more like scraping, but I checked, the chain doesn't touch anything other than the
chainring.

Is there anything else I can do on my own?


texts: Is there a limit to safe downhill speed on a bike

texts:
I have a very steep hill on my route which levels out after about 2 km. The first quarter is extremely steep and shortly after I enter it the bike skips around a little bit and by the time I'm at the bottom I'm gripping the handle bars and working pretty hard to keep it under control.

Is this a normal issue or is it indicative of problems with the bike? It happens both with my mountain bike and the touring bike. Less on the 29'er mountain bike perhaps due to the wider tyres and less twitchy handling.

There is a lot of acceleration right from the start going down.

Clarification:- I'm not concerned with other people's safety or traffic, my question is more about at what speed does my bike become unhandleable and/or fall to pieces.


texts:
My rear tire Presta valve began giving me some problems this morning. I noticed that the top screw (typically unscrew/screw this to inflate/deflate) was screwed too tightly to the valve pin thread and subsequently to the core. With a pair of pliers I was able to get the screw off but with it came the thread from inside the valve. I know how to screw the core back into the tube thread, but can't figure how to get the valve thread to attach/stay inside the core so that I can put it all back together and inflate the tire?

Have attached a picture showing the tire stem, the vale core, and pin thread/screw so you can understand how things have come apart.

Any thoughts on how to get the thread back together with the valve core?


texts: Replace V-Brakes with Caliper Brakes on a Flat Bar Road bike

texts:
I own an Fuji Absolute 1.4, a flat-bar road bike, 2013 model with 700x28c Tires and a carbon fork. The bike is really smooth but I am not happy with the braking power. I want to replace the existing V-Brakes with Caliper Brakes. I have searched all over the net, and found few relevant answers but they were not satisfactory. Now I have few questions in mind.
1. My Bike front Fork is Carbon and it has a hole probably for a fender mount or Calipers. Is it possible to mount Calipers on it. If so what type of Calipers do i need to get (Short or Long Reach Ones).
2. I don't want to use Cantilever brakes as i am not a fan of them.
3. If I have mounted calipers successfully, do I need to change the brake levers to pull the brakes as i know caliper brakes require short pull with increased tension.
I want to convert as i want to change the bike into a touring one in future with good amount of braking power.
Thank you


texts: How do I achieve a lower gear on a Norco Bigfoot with a 9 speed cassette?

texts:
I have 2015 Norco Bigfoot fat bike which has a Shimano HG-20 11-34T 9 sp cassette a with a  Shimano Alivio RDM 4000 SGS 9 sp Rear Derailleur and a  Shimano EZ-Fire EF 51 9 sp Rear Shifter. As I live in a particularly hilly area and intent to most ride this bike off road along animal pads in the bush I would like to reduce the gearing by having a 42t cog on the cassette. From reading I understand this can be done by
- removing a small cog and installing an 42T extender cog in the cassette,
- by replacing the current cassette with a wide range 9 sp cassette (hard to find),or by
- changing to a wide range 10 speed cassette with a change of derailleur, chain and shifter.

Please provide advise as to the best, most economical option. Could I install a 10 speed cassette and just use 9 cogs?

  From https://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2015/bigfoot-62/


texts: Convert Western Saddle to Regular Saddle?

texts:
I have a Sun adult trike with a western saddle.  That's the kind of saddle that you plunk your whole bum on, instead of a standard bike saddle that you straddle and just your sit bones contact.

This trike currently has the 19" U-shaped support bar and whatever the standard seatpost is (7/8" x ?).  This makes for a very low saddle height, and has that big honking saddle.  I'd like to replace this configuration with something higher up and a standard saddle if possible.  I know about the 21" support bar, and longer seat posts, but this bike does not have reasonable seat stays, so no way to just go to a standard seatpost/clamp arrangement (I think).

So, the question is, does anyone have thoughts, or better, has seen a product, that would let me mount a regular saddle on this support bar/weak seatpost combination?  I can get a longer support bar, and longer seatpost.  I can change the angle of the support bar, though not the seatpost.  I could weld on better seatstays, but with a 7/8" post, it probably still wouldn't be strong enough without something like the support bar.


texts: Can i change a 26×1.95 tire to 26×1.75 tire on the same wheel? If possible,am i need to change the innertube also?


texts:
Base on the photos as shown, is it possible to apply the following modification/s and/or alteration/s:

a. replacement of wheels from 20" rear-18" front to 16" both rear and front.

b. installation of disc brake since the bike frame and fork is designed for rim brakes.

c. replacement of the "uncommon" rear suspension to a more common suspension easily found in shops.

The bike is an aluminum alloy.


texts: I have a giant rincon from the 90's and I want to put suspension forks on them and keep the 26" tire what size forks should I be looking into getting


texts: Cruiser bottom bracket is clicking and grinding

texts:
My Trek Pure Deluxe 3-speed cruiser has been making a clicking noise when riding for some time. The problem is faint, and is more felt than heard. However, it's been getting worse; it now makes a grinding noise if I'm mashing a bit when going uphill.

The noise seems to happen when the right crank arm is facing forward. Which gear I'm in makes little difference. I've eliminated saddle noise (by pedaling out of the saddle) and have replaced the chain.

Is there anything else at all that this could be, or should I just replace the BB at this point?


texts: What is year and model of my Diamondback?

texts: I have a Diamondback frame I'm guessing around 1984 or 85 serial # F4042789


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I'm in the middle of swapping my BB30 cranks from stock FSA Gossamer to a (shorter length) SRAM BB30 "IA" S950.  The S950 has a "crank preload" adjuster on the NDS which the spindle is also attached to.  The instructions are just some brief drawings, and I've had no luck finding good install instructions online.  One question I have is:

What the heck is "crank preload".

Thanks!


texts: Why are barrel adjusters different for brakes and gears?

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In my experience, the ones for brakes will look something like this

while ones for gears will look like this

Is it even true that this is the case or did I just randomly see all the bikes having this configuration? If this is the case, what is the reason for this difference?


texts: Why did I feel like crap after racing against a car?

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I raced against a car yesterday for fun, in doing this, I rode at about 25-29 mph (40-47kmh) for about 3 minutes. The temperature outside was in the mid to low 40s (5-8 Celsius).

Afterwards I felt:

Out of breath for at least 3 minutes
Wanted to cough but didn't cough anything up.
Inside of my throat felt cold and painful
I got the feeling of wanting to puke a few times

For the rest of my commute home, which was 15+ minutes I felt like shit.

I think that the cold weather was big factor in this, am I correct? What can I do in the future to prevent this from happening to me? During the 3 minutes of the ride I had no idea that I was going to feel this way.

I should add that I've been riding 10 miles per day for the 2 years (including most of the winter). I usually ride this same stretch going 21-26 mph.


texts: The rear derailleur on my Huffy 21 speed bicycle does not switch anymore. It will click and turn, but the gear won't switch. When I attempt to force it manually it switches back to the biggest gear (smallest cog?). Please help, it's my only mode of transportation.


texts:
Can anyone please explain how air suspension lockout works? I mean physically what happens inside the shock?
 There are also multiple setting in lockout, how are they implemted?


texts: Why are my gears moving but my wheels not turning?

texts: I have two bikes that when I pedal (yes I am pedaling in the correct direction) the gears turn freely, but the wheels don't.  One of them I was riding and it felt like it had shifted while I was standing on it, and the next thing I knew I was walking home.  The other one my friend was riding at the time.