texts: What to prepare for a long distance ride (1600km)

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I will be riding my bicycle from Czech Republic to London this April. Even though I cycle quite frequently, this is my first time I will be doing such a long distance.

I am not doing this for charity, awarness or whatever super meaningful reason (even though if you know some good cause I dont mind to slap a sticker on my jacket...). Simply I got new bike, moved to London and when thinking about how to get it there I thought why not to just ride it.

Here is map of my planned trip:

As I planned it, it should take 13 days, 1600km, average of 120km a day. I don't think I am aiming for a crazy goal.

To the question:

To all of you who done some long distance around europe, what would you recommend for a gear to take with me? I have vague idea about what I want to take, but I probably missed something so better to ask.
Would you recommend bringing tent and a sleeping bag? I am not against sleeping outdoor at all, but after all we are in europe and not middle of sahara, I think I will always be able to find somewhere to sleep, eat etc.

Any advice from experienced long rider would be much appreciated.

Update 1

The Bike I am going to be riding

More info about the bike

This bike comes with very thick tires, I will be changing for thinner flatter tyres. something around 1.95 should be comfortable enough


texts: shimano CS-5600 compatible rear hub and freehub body

texts: What rear hubs and/or freehub bodies are compatible with a Shimano 105 5600 10-speed 12-25T cassette?


texts: How to find a bell that works well in the rain?

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I have a small aluminum bell with a striker on the side that has a good loud piercing "ding" that's easily heard from over 100 feet away (30 meters). However, when it's raining and the bell gets wet, the piercing ding turns into more of a sort of dull metallic "tink" that's barely audible from 10 feet (3 meters). I assume that water drops on the bell are dampening the sound somehow.

Anybody know what to look for to get a bell that will still be useful in the rain?


texts: I recently bought an Azor Opa style bike with 28x 1 1/2" (700 x 38c) tires that I want to switch out with something slimmer.  Would going down to 30c present a problem for my wheel perhaps?


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I am seeking help for a "dilemma" I have with my upgraded bike.
I have an old KTM Ultra Line (2004) that I have upgraded with a new chain wheel (FC-M590 48.36.26t), a Shimano BB52 bottom bracket (previously a Shimano UN26), Shimano Deore XT M772 Shadow (long cage) rear derailleur, a new freewheel body and a Sram PG990 cassette.

Having a bottom bracket shell 68mm wide, and a band type front derailleur, I have installed one 2.5 mm spacer on the left side, and two 2.5 mm spacers on the right side, as specified by Shimano's installation instructions.

Before the upgrade the bike was fitted with a square taper bottom bracket Shimano UN25 ( 110 mm axle width ).

Restoration work continued with new ball bearings for both front and rear hubs, and new cones and axle for the rear hub. Then I brought the bike to a local bike shop to replace brake and shifter cables, adjust the new chain (KMC X9) and check the wheels.

Then the mechanic told me he had to swap the spacers on the bottom bracket because otherwise the chain line wasn't centered and that should have put more stress on the rear derailleur.

When I went back telling him that the two cranks are now asymmetric with the rear crank far more near the frame than the left crank, he told me that the chain line it's that matter and I should not worry.

Yeah I should not worry but I feel the difference on my legs (using cleats on the pedals) and after just 20 km my left leg began to hurt.
What am I suppose to do? I will try to swap back the spacers as per Shimano's instructions, how can I judge it that put some stress on the derailleur?

I have taken some pictures and videos, here: https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21AE3dvdm3sIVKh9c&id=9BC36237EA980F31%21136&cid=9BC36237EA980F31


texts: Should I stick to the fork oil weight specified?

texts: I've got a pair of Rockshox Reba race forks. I'm going to service them. Fork oil weight says 5wt but in the past I have generally used a heavier oil weight 7.5 / 10 wt due to my size. However, saying that, the rebound damping is so effective and adjustable on this fork that I don't have any problems like I used to- should I stick to the 5wt?


texts: Changing from Shimano Road Double Chainset to Triple Chainset?

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Road bike setup at the moment is:
Shimano Tiagra (9 Speed) Shifters / Front Derailleur / 52-39T Chainset / Short Cage Rear Derailleur / Casette 27-11T.

Will I be able to do a straight swap and install an Ultegra 6300 52-39-30T Triple Chainset designed for 10 speed?
If not any other ideas?
Many thanks
Steve


texts: Bolts don't fit for Stronglight ring on Athena 11s

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I wanted to replace my ring on my Athena 11s Compact Crank (from 2014) and bought a Stronglight Ring (CT2 Road, Campagnolo 11s, 5-Arm, 110mmBCD).

Unfortunately the Ring Bolts are one or two milimeters too long, hence the rings dangle.

Any idea what chain ring bolts i need to buy or how i can find out? I only found the Super Record ones and no information about compatibility.

Update:

I found a note on some Stronglight rings that for athena cranks from before 2011 you need the FC-SR200 bolts for 5-arm cranks post 2011.

I bought the campagnolo version but they are exactly the same i already have on my crank. I would need narrower ones but i can't find any.


texts: What type of bicycle parking rack should my company install?

texts:
Recently there are many people coming by bicycle to our company.

I would like to solve the problem about where they should park their bikes.

Do you have any suggestion about what type of bike racks are suitable for us?


texts: Handlebar positioning and posture on Giant bikes

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I currently own a Giant Cypress.

I am looking at buying a new bike. I tried someone's Giant Roam. Although the seat height was a bit low for me, I felt like I was falling forward on the bike, whereas on the cypress I feel a bit more upright, which I prefer.

Is this just the design of the Roam? the info sheet says "Giant Connect, Low Rise" handlebars

So also looking at the Giant Cross City, wondered if that would be a bit more upright.

If the lowness of the handle bars something that can be adjusted? Or can I achieve a bit more upright positioning by getting a larger frame and setting the seat height on the low side?

Any advise would be appreciated.


texts: What is the recommended procedure for adjusting the fit of my bike?

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I have a road bike which is a reasonable fit, what is the recommended procedure for adjusting the seat position and handlebar height to get the "perfect fit"?

A complete answer should include what order to make adjustments; how to determine height of saddle, fore and aft position of saddle on rails and height of handlebars. Also what testing is required. Is this all done on feel or are there basic measurements and mecahnics that affect the adjustments? Does it help to have a turbo-trainer and large mirror or video camera?

Do the same principles apply for hybrid and/or mountain bikes? What changes to the process are needed for other bike types?

I know that this is a service you can pay for at some pro-cycling shops, but since I have a number of different bikes, I would like to be able to get a good fit for each of them at home for a minimal layout. And also, by understanding the process and doing it myself, getting a better understanding between me and the bike...


texts: Alternative for campagnolo rim brake release

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I bought a used road bike for a great price, it came with a shimano 105 groupset, but the brake it's a Campagnolo centaur.

It's a wonderful brake, but every time when I need to remove the wheel it's need to tighten the barrel adjuster to open the brake.
I am aware that the campagnolo rim breake release system it's a button in levers, but I would like to know if it is possible to place a release lever directly on the brake, just like the system on the shimano brakes.


texts: Full helmet (BMX) for Commuting, what is the current 2014 opinion?

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So, back 15 years ago, I think wearing helmet is kinda hype.
I started wearing cycling helmet around 10 years ago seeing how dangerous cycling on the road is.

Just recently I got in an accident which I'm not sure what I can do better to avoid one (the accident) but to have more protection on myself.
The accident happened just when a young motorist decided to pulled out without any signal, checking blind spot and possibly mirror (I use Cateye EL-130, a warning sign 300 m away from me can still reflect my flaslight-strobing well back; a full Hi Vis jacket).

So when I was swerving, I lost balance and get thrown off the bike, chin and face planted on asphalt. 4 stitches on the chin, internal bleeding around the front teeth (have to take fluid for 3 weeks) and scar on face.

Enough with the accident background, my question is
1) Would it worth buying a full helmet (BMX not motorcycle style) just to provide some protection, before my front teeth ever decide to part from me and my abuse.
2) What is your thought being a cyclist, seeing another wearing full helmet on the road?

Side question:
a) Regarding the accident, was there anything else I can do, apart from riding on the very right edge of the lane (UK driving on left) and/or driving unacceptably slowly (less than 10 mph or 16 kmph) to keep control of the bicycle (and encourage motorist behind to overtake).
b) I am still hesitant to claim personal injury against the driver. Is there any advice? Looking for a solicitor I believe?

EDIT: Sorry I forgot to tell that I'm living in Scotland so temperature is not really a problem.. but I have never seen people riding full helmet on the street, lol. I think in here 50% people choosing not to have helmet, even worse...
EDIT 2: I actually mean this kind of helmet just to prevent some simple face-plant injury


texts: Why is it easier to follow a cyclist up-hill

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Watching the Tour de France on TV I notice that the riders like to ride close behind other riders when going up a steep hill.

I understand that rider can benefit from a slipstream on the flat section, but on a climb the speed is so slow, the slipstream has minimal effect.

When climbing, the TV commentators make a big deal of the importance of riders 'getting on to the wheel' of the riders ahead as if it will be much easier if the rider could attach himself to the group ahead.

What is the benefit of being attached to a group when climbing?


texts: What is this device on all the Tour de France riders' bikes?

texts: What is the device behind the saddle on all the riders' bikes in the 2015 tour? I'm seeing it on almost every bike. It looks standardized and electronic.


texts: Fundamental principles of tire friction for off-road biking

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This is a two-part question.

I've been watching various videos and getting various advice about mountain bike cornering. My impression is that all of the advice cannot be true, because the advice, taken together, seems self-contradictory. Also, some logic out there seems rather disconnected from the physics.

A few years ago, I read this book on race car driving: "Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving". It is the best physics-based explanation of car handling I've seen. Based on the laws of physics, each tire has a maximum amount of traction for a given amount of downward force per tire. I want to point out two things that result from this:

If you need more traction, you can: (a) get stickier tires, (b) increase contact patch, (c) increase downward force (i.e. the 'normal' vector, perpendicular to the surface).
For a given amount of friction, it may be used for some combination of acceleration (forward), braking (backward), or cornering (sideways). By combination, I mean the sum of the force vectors. So, the more friction you use in acceleration or braking, the less you have available for cornering.

Unless I hear a better explanation, I think the above explanation above serves as a useful fundamental grounding of tire traction, whether it be on-road or off-road.

Question, part 1: Is my summary of the physics detailed enough to be useful without overlooking any key aspects? Are there problems in borrowing the logic of automotive tire grip and applying it to mountain biking?

Here is one way to apply this knowledge. As an example, I heard something like this from a video about mountain bike handling (sorry, I lost the link):

  "pedaling out of a corner gives more traction at the rear wheel" (paraphrased)

This seems bogus to me. If you pedal, you are asking the rear tire to use grip for acceleration, meaning less is available for cornering. Question, part 2: Is my logic correct?


texts: How can I tell if my wheels need replacing due to rim wear?

texts: I have v-brakes which have started to groove my rims. What is the surest way to know if they need replacing?


texts: Can I use Avid olive and connector insert in a Shimano brake?

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Basically, this is the question:
I can use the olives and connector inserts proper for Avid in a Shimano Deore M596 brake/hose?
Has anyone tried and can report if it worked perfectly or if there was any problem?
Thank you very much.


texts: Can I replace my mountain bike's back wheel quick release?

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I was wondering if there is a way to replace my bike's rear quick release with something which would be harder for someone to steal.

At the moment all that someone has to do is pull the leaver and they can take my wheels, so I just wanted something which is safer and can be opened when needed with something like an allen key or something.


texts:
I bought this week my first clipless pedals (Shimano A530) as well as some shoes to go with it. After installing one cleat on one shoe, I "locked" the shoe on the pedal, but I do not manage to "unlock". The problem is that I did not tighten enough the cleat to the shoe (thinking that I'd do it afterwards to adjust the position of the clear), meaning that when I try to unlock, the cleat also moves.

Does anyone has an idea of I could unlock the cleat from the pedal without damaging anything?


texts: What is the stopping force of your average road bike?

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Does anyone have any data on the stopping force of a modern road bike? IE when a road biker slams on the brakes the force applied to the ground is x.xxx Newtons (or lbf).

Another way to ask would be if anyone has any speed vs stopping distance vs rider weight data for road bikes.

TO CLARIFY : I'm asking if anyone has a data set of numbers, I'm fully capable of going out and testing my own bike and doing the physics / math to obtain the information I need, but I'd just rather not do the testing. I would expect some deviation based on the kind of brakes and rims involved, but I would expect any modern road bike to have similar stopping force.


texts: What is the purpose of an insert pin for Magura brake hoses?

texts:
I just upgraded my broken Magura HS11 brake lever assembly to a HS33R. The new HS33R was packaged with a sleeve nut and an olive, which I used to connect the brake hose to the brake lever assembly. This all works as intended.

If you look online for "Magura olive" you often find sites, that sell them as a kit with an insert pin. Do I need one or are they only used with disk brakes? What is the purpose?

I also found an official video guide for shortening the brake hose and the manual, but neither mention them.


texts: Construction hints for a sociable dicycle?

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I'm thinking of building a dicycle, specifically a sociable one like the picture below but pedal powered. Has anyone seen one in real life, or better yet, tried to build one?

The broad design is easy enough, I can get ordinary wheels from the local racing/historical scene. It's the drive and handling that concern me. I suspect I will need an adder-subractor gearbox to balance the pedal power and allow it to be ridden solo, but I've never built one except using Lego so I'm not sure how big it'll need to be.

I'd really appreciate tips from people who've built one before.


texts:
I've just read a review of Tom Zirbel's Jamis Xenith SL on Bike Radar and flicking through the pictures there is one of the head tube with the following caption:

  Tom Zirbel's (Jamis Sutter Home) Jamis Xenith SL features a tapered 1-1/8 to 1-1/2in head tube - especially useful in a frame of this size

What benefits does a tapered head tube afford?


texts: How many effective gears do I have on a 21 speed bike?

texts: I have a 21 speed bike (a hybrid commuting bike). But AFAIK, this does not mean that I have 21 different gear ratios. Is there any way to calculate the different gear ratios?


texts:
Can someone help me what kind of alpinestars bike frame is this, and where it is manufactured? Just got it a year ago.. I've already search alpinestars website but couldn't find this exact frame..
Here is the bike's serial number JYW16047461


texts: How to make my Avid Elixir 1 hydraulic brakes more firm?

texts: I have a Specialized Carve Comp 2013, and the front brake is very squishy. The brake system is Avid Elixir 1 hydraulic disc brakes. I wanted to inquire if I need to buy a specific kit to firm up the brake lever, or if there is a simpler, less expensive solution. Please advise, thank you.


texts: How do we understand if caliper brakes can be installed on the frame?

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I have a hybrid bike and I am converting it to drop bars.

My problem is, as I am going to install STI's, I need to change brake system as well. I am using V brake types, how can I understand if I can install caliper brake or not?

1- V brake is mounted on holes on the frame, are caliper brakes' start-end distance(I mean the distance between those holes and the wheel touch point)  same with V brakes'?

2- Or, since my bike's frame is wider than a normal road bike(and using wider tires), is the distance between the mount holes OK or too wide?

This is the random v brake image http://bicycletutor.com/images/bike/v-brake-400x280.jpg I am asking about the horizontal and vertical distances here.

This is the most detailed image of my bike I can find http://www.sedabisiklet.com/images/products/3/622015171123_200.jpg, sorry I couldn't find any photos from behind or front, so I can't show you more details.

edit: Found some better pictures of my bike. Please check them.

back
http://i.imgur.com/Hj0ccPg.png
seems there is a hole like you mentioned. Not designed for mudguard (middle one, rear holes are for mudguards) I think

front
http://i.imgur.com/XccwDqP.png
there is a small hole there, under the cable


texts:
I am engaging in a friendly race with a co-worker. He has told me he plans on drafting behind me most of the race to save energy.

I want to make it hard for him(without doing anything mean spirited) to draft off me.  In general, in racing situations, what strategies can you employ to stop competitors from drafting?

In this specific case he is a probably a better more experienced rider and I am the novice.

UPDATE:  Thanks everyone for the advice.  What I decided on doing were some intervals so I was not going at a constant pace.  I wanted to go my own tempo, and if my coworker wanted to draft bad enough(he didn't) he would have to go my tempo.  A side note, I got a better bike which may have more to do with the win then preventing him drafting, but a win is a win.


texts: E-bike rims: can I use them on my touring bike?

texts:
I am touring with my MTB, now for 4 months.
I have been using really good Pacenti 29er rims, but just 2 days ago I cracked the rear one.
I am carrying a lot of weight and Pacenti (after I contacted them, great guys) made me notice that the rim even if strong for MTB is not made to carry that load.

I am thinking to replace the rims with E-bike ones, because they are actually made for heavier bikes.

Do you think it is a good idea?
The rim I would like to use is a:
DT SWISS Rim 545d 700c 28'' black 622-19 vl 6,5mm 36 hole simply eyed


texts: My hydraulic Hayes brake lever comes down and clicks, and it doesn’t retract?

texts: My Hayes “Purple” hydraulic brake lever doesn’t work. I thought the reservoir was empty, so I put some brake fluid in and it didn’t work. The lever comes down too far with no response to the brakes, then sorta clicks. What should I do? Any suggestions would help a lot because I am going biking soon.


texts: Wider tires offering faster speeds and safer ride?

texts:
I'm looking at riding again. I took a two year break after I crashed going down a hill when a tree branch was down and I went over my handlebars.

I've always assumed that thinner tires were better for riding but I was watching this video from Global Cyclist Network. In the video the rider makes a strong argument for wider tires.

What I'm wondering is there any literature or empirical studies that are public that show these results? I found some small things that corroborated this but I was sure this would be the right place to ask.


texts: What is mysteriously slicing the inside of my tubes?

texts:
For about the last year, I've had a problem keeping my bike on the road. Originally, my rear tube went flat when the tire was punctured by an office staple (don't ask me how a regular office staple could have been positioned properly on the road and puncture all the way through the tire while I was riding, I can't figure that out either). Since then, every time I replace the tube, it lasts for maybe two weeks and then goes flat again. Each time, the tube gets this mysterious slice along the inner side. Here is a picture of one of these slices. It's very faint; only deep enough to puncture fully through the tube in a few places.

This is a picture of the inner side of the tube. The slice is almost halfway down from the seam and runs across the length of the tube shown here. My patch is covering the largest hole, but doesn't solve the problem.

The first time I saw this, I figured it was something to do with the rim. However, this slice (which is usually about 20cm long) appears in different locations relative to the valve on every new tube. So if it is something to do with the rim, it isn't anything that would be in a fixed location on the rim.

I also thought it could be due to installation error, so I made sure a few times I had professionals at the shop do the installing. Same thing; about two weeks later it would be flat with a slice like this through it.

Obviously, this has nothing to do with the tire itself, since no part of the tire is in contact with this part of the tube. Given the time it takes to form, it looks like something is gradually cutting into the tube and, after about two weeks, finally manages to wear through it. I've washed the rim thoroughly and run my fingers along it to check for slivers. Nothing. I thought maybe it was the rim strip, the edge of which contacts the tube. That's still my number 1 guess, but if that's it, why is this slice only along a ~20cm section of the tube (I've checked the rest, no slice) and always in a different place along the rim? Why wouldn't it either be in the same place or along the entire tube if it were the strip?

Anyway, this mystery has me stumped and has cost me a fortune in tubes and bus fare (what with a bike no longer being my commute option). To try to mitigate it, I've tried using self-sealing tubes, which obviously didn't work perfectly (lasted an extra few days though) because they are more suited for punctures on the outer side of the tube. My next thought is trying puncture-proof tubes. If I can't figure out how to stop these slices, I figure puncture-proof tubes would be thick enough to give me a few extra weeks per tube.

For the record, the bike is a Trek 3700 with 26X2 wheels and I usually pump the rear wheel up to about 45-50 psi.

TL;DR: What's causing these slices in my tubes? How can I prevent it?


texts: New hydraulic disc brake has less stopping power than old rim brake—why?

texts:
Recently, I upgraded to a Rockrider 540 bicycle. My previous bicycle (a similar but simpler model) had rim brakes, this one has hydraulic disc brakes.

On the new bicycle, the stopping power of the front brake is clearly worse than on my old one. However, the rear brake works much better than on the old one.

Does this indicate a fault with the front brake, or does it just need some use before it becomes more effective? How can I fix it and make the brake work better?


texts: I had knee surgery on my left knee and I am finding it difficult for me to clip into my pedals on my road bike and then pedal due to no enough float. Are there pedals and cleats with more float so my knee/leg can be slightly roatated outwards?


texts: What PSI for downhill bike tires used for road biking?

texts:
I bought a downhill bike from a friend awhile ago when I was considering trying out downhill biking. Currently, I want to use it to do some road biking. The tires read 29 PSI 2 bar, Max of 80 PSI. I pumped them to 29 PSI, and that biking session was pretty tiring. I pumped it up to 40-ish PSI and I can coast, and pedal much better. My friend at work suggests I pump it to the max of 80 PSI, but just want to be sure this is a good idea before I try it.

I'm pretty new to the technical side of biking/bikes.

Cheers.

Update: I forgot to mention that I read this post but it doesn't really mention road biking.


texts: Are disc brakes weak? And what is "bedding in"?

texts:
I've owned a couple of department store bicycles in the past with caliper brakes and I set the brakes up properly so when I squeezed the brakes the bike stopped pretty quickly.

I test-rode a bicycle from a bike shop a couple of days ago which had disc brakes, and it was just so slow to stop the bike, it seemed like the brakes were so weak. I checked the brakes on the spot by standing next to the bike and squeezing the front brake and pushing the bike forward, and there was no slippage, and same with the rear wheel. So I think the brakes were set up correctly, they just seemed to have no stopping power.

I asked the clerk about it and he said they would need to be "bedded in". I couldn't understand what he was talking about, but is it normal? And why can't I get a bike that's ready to go from when I buy it. Do I just buy a bike with weak brakes and use it for a while and after a few days the brakes will work better after it grinds a groove in or something like he said? Or were the brakes not set up correctly?


texts: I have a Shimano UN55 square BB. Within about a month of buying my new bike the Truvativ crank came loose and is essentially too rounded out to salvage. Any suggestions on an alternative crank to go with the existing BB? I would like to avoid replacing the entire crankset if it isn't necessary. Currently running 175mm cranks.


texts: Geometry question: shorter stack with same reach?

texts:
I'm planning on building a new bike soon but I'm quite conflicted about choosing a frame. For now I'm riding a GT Grade AL 2015 that I use everyday to commute but since I'm planning on doing some bikepacking tours overseas, I want to have a lighter bike. Buying a carbon GT Grade might be nice but they don't sell them as frameset and the specs they are offering are... Uuuh... Undesirable.

Now then, I might buy a CX or gravel frame, both are okay as long they can fit at least 38C. The CX frame that I have my eyes on has a stack/reach of 561/374 mm and BB drop 57 mm while my Grade has stack/reach of 578/373 mm and BB drop 70 mm.

Would the differences in stack and BB drop make a noticeable difference? I would say I wouldn't mind a bit of racier position since I also have a road bike but I just need some more inputs.
Also the CX frame costs like 50% less than the current gravel carbon frames that's why I'm leaning toward it. Plus higher ground clearance might mean I could fit 650B wheels there (hopefully).


texts: 1970 Schwinn Tandem - How to move rear seat further away from handlebars

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I scored a cool sierra brown, 1970 Schwinn Tandem 5 speed bike on craigslist (one owner even).  I grew up in the 70s and loved the look of this bike, but I guess I had to turn 45 before I got one.

So to my question,  my wife wanted a new rear seat, she said the 70s era seat technology is a litte rough on her behind.   I put a new rear seat on and slide it as far back on the rails as possible.   But when my small, petite wife rides the bike her knees are close to the handlebar.  I can't ride on the back now without my knees hitting the handlebar.

I stopped by my local bike shop, and the mechanic pulled out a post that had a nice angle on it.    The problem is the diameter of the post,  it was larger then the frame could handle.

They said they couldn't get a post in such a small diameter with any type of angle on it.

What options do I have to get the rear seat moved back away from the handelbars?

Any ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks,


texts:
I have an old 26" hardtail that I want to convert to Shimano SLX 1x12 (M7100) from its current 3x9 drivetrain. As the new 1x12 uses a micro spline hub, I am thinking of changing my rear hub from M475 to
FH-MT500 (micro spline QR 135). Would I be able to use my old wheel and spokes with the new hub, as both the hubs are Shimano and have almost same dimensions/flanges, etc. I can't find new 26" wheels that have the microspline hub.
Or is it better use a Sunrace 11-51T cassette that uses the old Shimano HG hub? If I go this option, I am guessing I won't get the Shimano HyperGlide+ smooth shifting.
Also, is it possible to use a 32T narrow wide 104BCD chainring in place of my current middle chainring keeping the same crankset/BB. I can remove the smallest and largest chainring from my current crank.


texts: Is frame number the same thing as serial number?

texts: I'm registering my bike with Kryptonite anti-theft scheme and it asks for the serial number. My local dealer wrote down the frame number for me, saying I might need this for insurance purposes. Are these two names for the same number or are they distinct?


texts: What things should I look for when purchasing a fixed gear bike?

texts: What features are important or of note? What are appropriate prices to pay? Are there specific brands which provide a clear advantage over others?


texts:
I am switching from a MTB (with pretty old, but still fine, SPD cleats) to a CX and am in the process of picking pedals. I won't be driving the MTB at all anymore, after that, and have switched it to non-cleat anyways, because I prefer it that way on slow, technical routes.

Do I want to worry about converting the shoes to the road cleat system? Or is that just a big hassle ending in an unhappy compromise? The point would be primarily to not have to go and look for new shoes (as the old ones are still well fitting and have not been used much), and just switch out the system.


texts: Screw cap stuck in adjustable stem connection, how to remove or reattach?

texts:
I was trying to detach my handlebar, because lowering was insufficient to make my bicycle fit in my box.  I detached the long screw going connecting two lids thereby fastening the stem-handlebar connection, but the lid of the left side is stuck:

Can I use some gentle violence here, or do I need to unstuck the lid in a different way?  I'm not sure if there is a thread inside the hole, and I'm not quite sure why the cap has ripples.  I don't want to destroy anything.

Note: I'm not sure if my terminology is correct overall


texts:
Not having biked since I was a kid I went ahead and bought a Sirrus 2015 (the base model) for commuting 2x a week (~100 km weekly total) with a view to do 3-5 days. I've done about 1000km on it so far. I'm a fairly heavy guy at (210 lbs but fit from running/lifting) and commute with a backpack. I like the frame, seat and flat bar, but the shifting is slow and imprecise, and I've had it back to the shop a few times now for clunking and clicking in the bottom bracket/crank area. This issue just recently seemed to reoccur. So I'm concerned for the longevity and quality of those components. I've broken the stock pedals too.

Should I be upgrading my components? (I would be willing to shell out about $500 or so) What should I target for the budget?


texts: Shimano A520 SPD Touring Pedals cant clip out :-(

texts:
got a new set of Shimano A520 SPD Touring Pedals and a pair of
http://www.polaris-apparel.co.uk/product/SPLINTER shoes

i cant clip out  once in has anyone had this problem before #amature?


texts:
I'm thinking of upgrading to sram cx-1 and discs for next season but would like to keep the current crank set based power meter I have.

Can anyone think of a reason why I could not use the current Shimano crank set I have with an 11 speed compatible single retaining chain ring designed for said purpose (like: http://www.hopetech.com/product/retainer-ring-110-pcd/) and would have to go with the sram cx1 crankset?


texts:
I am reading a tire review at
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/schwalbe-lugano-2015
and it says

  the Lugano had a gigantic height stroke. Most tires have this, but the Lugano was awful, you will probably notice it on the bike. This is a sign of low-quality control.

and

  quality control seems to be low as the Lugano used for this test came with a severe height stroke. To keep the price low, they probably just don't bin the bad tires.

What is it?   This tire is very low-scoring so I think it is bad.


texts: Garmin Edge Touring - Quality of the maps

texts: I currently have a Garmin Edge 200, which I like quite a bit. But I would like a GPS that has mapping capabilities. I don't need the training features. I'm curious about the quality of the maps in the Garmin Touring. It looks like they are based on some sort of open source maps. Does anyone have this unit and can comment on the quality and accuracy of the maps?


texts:
I have a LeMond Big Sky SLT & an Opus Triton. Every bikepedia-esque site I went on said they had incompatible bottom brackets.

When I actually read the brackets today the LeMond has a BSA. The Opus only states: BC1.37x24.

BSA has the same measurements: 1.37x24 (according to wikipedia.)

Does this mean the crank from one will fit in the other or am I missing something?

I've read a lot about all the crank differences and compatibility issues etc but frankly I can't identify what I have to know if they're different.


texts: What are the rules about take a bike on London Dockland Light Railway (DLR)?

texts: I know that the rules for the DLR are not the same as the Tube, but what are the rules?


texts:
I visited my optician last week and the time has finally come for me to start wearing glasses for driving. As a result of this I figure it is probably a good idea to start thinking about prescription lenses for my cycling glasses too.

Looking on the web, the prescription glasses that I'm seeing are basically "regular" cycling glasses (including regular lenses which may or may not be tinted), plus some kind of insert (clear prescription lenses) which seems to clip to the frame and sit between eye and frame.

The "insert" appears to be shaped to the frame, so it looks like I'd need to buy both glasses and insert, and possibly throw my current glasses away. (I'd rather not do this, but if I have to, I have to.)

I guess my first question, for anyone who already wears prescription glasses, is whether my description above is accurate or not? Second, does having this insert actually "work"? By "work", I mean being able to ride a bike at decent speed, for several hours, up hills, down dales etc. For example, do people experience fogging problems (moreso than you might with non-prescription glasses)?

My next question is more general, a kind of a technology rec. Are there other viable approaches to prescription cycling glasses, that I should consider? For example is it possible to get prescription tinted plastic lenses that will just snap into a frame? (my gut feel is that I would prefer this approach if possible.) [Edit - I've now seen that this approach seems to be available, albeit at a premium (especially as I'd want lenses in at least two colours).]

For the purposes of this question, it's fine to treat money as irrelevant, I can worry about this later.

Please note lastly that I'm not looking for any advice in the general area of cycling glasses here, I've been using them for years and think I already understand the pros and cons pretty well. It is purely the prescription aspect of things, I'd like to know more about.


texts: Pins and needles in my fingers after long rides

texts:
I've started to get pins and needles in my little finger and the finger next to it some times after riding for over an hour. The roads are quite rough and vibrate my handle bars quite a lot. I also wake up some mornings with tingley fingers. I think that might be related to cycling, but it could also be that my fingers spend a lot of time typing.

Is this something that I should be worried about and is there anything I can do to prevent it happening?


texts:
I've used to ride with 3x10 setup on my MTB. Now I've got a new one with 2x10 (Avalanche 9R Expert).

The question is: do I need to worry less or more about chain crossing on this bike?

This is not a duplicate since I'm mostly interested in difference between 3 and 2*10 setups in terms of chain crossing


texts:
I've suffered a small puncture on my tubeless tyres. It spat out some sealant and then seemed to be OK for a while. But today it couldn't hold a decent pressure.

How can I repair this?
Just put some more sealant in and hope?
Put an inner tube patch inside the tyre?


texts: Solutions for preventing/removing raindrops on glasses when riding in rain?

texts:
I have to wear glasses when riding by bike and when it rains it can become hard to see my surroundings.

Wiping them with my hand/glove makes things worse as it smudges everything.

Before I resort to wearing contact lenses, I thought I'd ask if anyone has any clever ideas on how to prevent this from happening.


texts: Is "touring bike" a common term in the USA?

texts:
Just researching some bikes online and, being from the UK, I cannot find any bikes on US websites called 'touring bikes', as we'd commonly call them in the UK. By this, I mean bikes which come with front/rear racks for panniers and (usually) drop handlebars, along with a steel frame for extra durability but a bit more weight.

I have seen gravel bikes come up a fair bit but am not sure that they are the same thing as many don't appear to have front/rear racks.

I have done Google Image and Pinterest searches but I'm still confused.

Any clarification would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve


texts: Bike chain worn to 1% according to indicator tool

texts:
My bike chain is worn to the 1% gauge on my indicator but only on certain links.  I could check a different link and it won't fit at all. However it would drop right through on certain links.

Should I be looking at replacing the chain and rear cassette?


texts: Problem with chain `skipping` (but not trying to shift)

texts:
I have two bicycles that suffer this problem, both pretty heavy frames (one a ladies, Hollander bike, and the other a man's commuter) - both have correctly adjusted Derailleurs which don't produce any noise or rub on the chain during normal riding.

However with both, on flat ground, at nominal speed - once every 3-10 revolutions of the chain it will simply skip; there's no drive for a quarter of a turn and then everything is OK.

I had originally assumed that this was a misalignment, or normal chain-skip (as I had only noticed it under heady load, cycling hard out of the saddle. However noticing the same happens on my girlfriend's bike, and on mine when I'm taking it easy disconcerts me, and leaves me with little confidence in the bike.

I'm not sure where to start diagnosing, however I suspect that stripping the drive train might be a start… perhaps also examining the chain for nipped-links, and the sprockets for damaged teeth (although, both bikes have a bash-guard on the front sprocket)

Any help or advice greatly appreciated, I'm a pretty handy motorcycle mechanic, but I always found working on my Human powered bikes a lot more fiddly :)


texts:
Please help me (re-)adjust my .Shimano 105 9x rear derailleur of my ancient Shimano 105 3x9 gruppo.  It's a RD-5501, as my research seems to support.

The prequel: After working fine for many kilometers, the pulley cable came loose. I re-installed the cable, of course.

But ever since, the rear derailleur seems to shift randomly into a neighbouring gear without me moving the shift levers. It seems to happen mostly when the chain is on the "middle" cogs; when I shift into the largest or smallest gear, the chain stays on its cog just fine.

The last procedure I tried was as follows:

Loosen cable
Chain on greatest sprocket in front, smallest cog in the rear;
2.1. turn the crank and loosen "high" screw until the chain starts rattling
2.2. tighten the "high" screw until the rattling stops
Turn cable tensioner to most-"loose" position
Install pulley cable
Chain on middle (!) sprocket in front, largest cog in the rear;
5.1. tighten "low" screw until rattling starts
5.2. loosen "low" screw until rattling stops
Try out all other cogs - all gears seem to shift nicely.

Still, when I ride only a short distance, once the chain is on a middle-ish cog, 4th to 6th, it jumps to the next cog intermittantly.

What am I doing wrong?


texts: can i use a 700c tire (Gatorskin 700c x23) on a 650 wheel

texts:
I am thinking of getting some Velocity Rims that are 650c but I am wondering if I will be able to use my 700x23c Gatorskin tires on them? Also what do you think about 650c wheels pros and cons.

Also, lets say I just buy the 650 rims do I need to change anything else in the bike? I have a Fuji Newest 3.0, I think the 2008 version, if that helps.


texts:
I guess I'll start off by saying that I am not a necessarily experienced rider. After years of doing ultra-marathon running I decided to move to triathlon to cross train.  I signed up for a 70.3 a few weeks before it started and turns out I had a knack for triathlon in the swimming(34mins) and running(1hr 40min) section! However, the biking was alright.

I've been training under the guidance of a professional Ironman athlete which has been a world of help(I am training anywhere from 25-29hrs per week). Where we live there is nothing but mountains and rolling hills. Finding a flat area is nearly impossible. I have 3 70.3's which are all flat and fast tt coming up and 2 fulls after which are hilly so no big deal.

I want to know what benefits I gain from training in such mountainous terrain that will transition on the bike on very flat courses.


texts: How do I know when to replace/maintain the crank?

texts: What are the warning signs that a crank (not the chainwheel etc, but the crank itself) is worn out and needs to be changed, or removed and cleaned? I have never changed mine in 5 years or so, because it seemed to fall into the category of 'it's working, don't mess with it'. It makes a bit of a grinding sound now and visibly has dirt in it, but still works fine.  Do I wait till it breaks or what?


texts:
I ride through the winter in the Pacific North West and get soaked about every other ride.

What are the best way you've found to dry your shoes?

I've found that stuffing them with wadded up newspaper works well to draw the moisture out, but if I don't swap the paper out every couple of hours, I just get damp newspaper that smells of mildew.

An ideal solution would be passive - in that I would set the shoes up and then just grab the dry shoes a day later for my next ride.


texts: Can I jump from small heights on my bicycle?

texts:
I have recently bought a Merida Matts 40-D bicycle. I didn't buy it for extreme sports, rather for a recreational cycling, etc, but as I'm only 22 years old, it's too tempting to jump down from small stairs when riding through the city. Let's say the height to jump is less than 1 meter and my weight is 74 kg (162 lbs). Can I use this bicycle for such, once in a while, or should I not? I don't want to break it, nor destroy the wheels, etc.

EDIT: To further clarify what I mean, I made this simple scheme:

So basically, I never hit the stairs, just the ground when landing.


texts: Completely new to indoor cycling, is there a MUCH cheaper alternative to power meter that would be compatible with the RGT app?

texts:
I'm planning to get a cheap, not-smart mag trainer, to cycle inside. I'm currently a stay-at home mom and I would like the cheapest, yet enjoyable app-wise, set up for indoor training with virtual riding. I really like what I read about RGT- no cost to use the app, BUT it seems like  you must have the equipment on the quite expensive end of the cost spectrum. Here is their site's compatibility explanation.
Am I right in this assessment? Is there some type of computer alternative to a power meter that you think could work with this app? I have NO idea what's out there apart from basic speed/cadence sensors which I cannot use for this app. I imagine that is because the virtual ride uses LOTS of specific data from your own ride to make it more realistic and awesome.
I imagine I will end up buying a basic speed sensor and use another app I have to pay for. (Yuck to paying a monthly price for an app. I'm super cheap). Before going that route, I wanted to see if there was any type of alternative buy that may pay for itself over the course of x number of months if I use RGT  as a free app vs. paying monthly for an app. I'm also happy to hear any opinions about the following apps which seem to have the journey cycling feel I would enjoy: Ful Gaz,Rouvy, Bkool, Zwift, another unknown to me, etc.
About my cycling, if it is relevant:  I am a casual cyclist who enjoys leisurely, outdoor cycling and I often seek out new trails. Before I was a mom, I did do longer rides (30-55 mi) so I think I will actually cycle indoors especially if I have a virtual path, BUT I am definitely not a hard-core cyclist trying to get best times. I'm not even looking for an especially tough work-out, although I am competitive in general and would be motivated most by a "self-competition"- something where I could see previous time on same course, etc. But on the whole,  I simply want to enjoy getting exercise regularly inside and, the kicker.... I would like to do it for about as cheap as possible.


texts: Why aren't hub/drum/roller brakes suitable for touring?

texts:
I've got a Dutch town bike with Shimano IM80 roller brakes. They're brilliant. Maintenance free, clean, and effective.

I've been looking at getting a long range touring bike for an initial 3 month camping/hostel trip to Japan, and so I need a more suitable bike. It's probably best that I stick with what I know and like, but it seems that everyone says roller brakes just won't do it.

Why is this? Here's a summary of the issues and my initial thoughts.

"They can't cope with sustained braking on descent."
Is this because of temperature? The cooling fins on a Shimano IM81 roller brake are huge compared to disc brakes. Why is this a problem?
"They can't handle heavy loads."
I give lifts to adult passengers on the back of my heavy bike (a total weight of at least 150kg) and while braking performance is affected it's not catastrophic.

I would really appreciate answers that address the technical performance and safety issues that mean hub brakes aren't recommended. I'm aware maintenance (particularly in the field), weight, interoperability, and style are other factors that need consideration independently from the operation. Thanks!


texts: I recently got this chain master-link for my 21 speed bike but it turns out that it's really meant for a 24 speed drivetrain. Does this mean that the master-link won't be good on my set up? Or that it'll still work just fine? I really don't want my bike to be affected or the shifting to get harsher.


texts:
I'm looking at signing our work up to a Cycle to Work scheme in the UK. There are a lot of online reviews of the benefits of the scheme, but not much feedback on which are the best providers to go for.

Would anyone like to share their experiences with particular providers? Has their customer service been up to scratch?

Thanks very much.


texts:
So I keep my bike in the garage, in Florida where there are plenty of critters.  This would include lizards and frogs including the expected insects.  Heck the other day there was a bird trapped in my garage!

As such I really don't like to keep water bottles anywhere but inside the house where the critter population is far more controlled.  I have one of these water bottles:

There is a strap that holds it in place that without the water bottle in place, the strap would easily fall out.

Any hints on how to store the bottle and the strap so the strap does not become lost?


texts: DT Swiss 370 hub not spinning smoothly in thru axle frame (end caps?)

texts:
I have a brand new rear wheel that uses a DT Swiss 370 hub. (From what I understand, the 370 is the same as the 350 except with pawls instead of a ratchet.) I'm trying to use it on a 12x142 thru axle frame. It came with a SRAM XD freehub body, which I don't want, so I replaced it with a Shimano HG one.
Everything seems fine when the wheel is off the bike. But when I install it and tighten the thru axle to the recommended 10 Nm, the wheel is stiff and doesn't want to turn. (The freehub part works fine, though.)
It seems like the non-drive side end cap is pressing against a rotating part of the bearing assembly. When it's off the bike, I can feel the friction if I press on it while turning it. The drive side end cap doesn't behave like this.
I think I have the correct end cap--it slides onto the axle and gently clicks into place. I measure 142mm from end cap to end cap (eye measurement with tape measure). However, the end cap is shaped like a top hat and the little lip at the "opening of the hat" is a few mm wider than the axle diameter--it seems like it should be the same diameter?
Do I have the wrong end cap? Am I missing a washer or something?
EDIT
Here is a photo of the non-drive side. Everything from the red seal outwward spins around the silver ring.

And here is a photo of the end cap. It didn't occur to me when I first posted this that it's not normal to have a "washer" flopping around between the "silver part" and the "brim." This "washer" is actually a "second top hat brim" that cracked off. I just left it flopping around thinking that was normal. But when I remove it, the wheel spins fine.

So apparently this wheel came with the wrong end cap. The DT Swiss support site says it's supposed to use end cap model HWAXXX00S6333S, but I can't find that anywhere using Google. Maybe it will be OK to use this one.


texts: I put the right shoe into the left SPD pedal. (I know, you don't even need to say it.) It was not even attached to the bike at this time. Just took both out of their boxes and thought to self, 'how does this work?' My first ever attempt at cleats, and by the looks of things, this is possibly my last.


texts: Parking a 3-speed internal hub in 2nd gear permanently

texts:
I recently bought a gently used, not super well maintained Columbia 3-speed  bike from some time in the 80s. It has an internal hub - the dreaded Shimano 333. My eventual plan is probably to convert it to single-speed, but I'm not quite ready to buy new wheels yet. (Yes, there are probably other ways to do it, but that's out of scope here anyway.) In the meantime, I'd like to put the internal hub in 2nd gear ("neutral") and leave it there permanently.

It should have been an easy operation - just shift into 2nd and then stop shifting! But I was out riding last weekend and I suddenly found I was trapped in 3rd gear. Couldn't shift down for love nor money. When I got home, I found this:

I've never dealt with an internal hub before so please bear with me for not knowing the vocabulary. I gather that the back of bit A is supposed to be a kind of bracket that holds the pin in bit B in place, creating a hinge that lets the cable tension do its work. It's a bit tough to see in the photo, but the back of bit A crumbled off in my hand when I went to put it back together. So I can put the shifting mechanism back together, but it doesn't stay together under tension.

No problem: I wanted to remove the shifter and cable eventually anyway. All would be well if I were trapped in 2nd gear. But I'm trapped in 3rd. I'm not completely sure what the ratio is but it's much too high a gear for single-speed use. So, thanks to this guide I've started to work out how this hub works. I've gotten as far as removing the bell crank and have found the push rod, which slides easily in and out, with the expected resistance at the "in" position. What I haven't yet figured out yet, though, is:

How do I determine what position the push rod needs to be in for second gear?
How do I hold the push rod in the correct place to keep the hub in second gear indefinitely?
Bonus question: assuming this is possible and I manage to get it done, how will this arrangement change the maintenance requirements of the hub?


texts: Price difference between buying a bike in Europe (Austria) vs USA?

texts:
I am moving to Vienna, Austria in two weeks.

My wife and I want to buy bikes before we leave, but I'm wondering if the hassle of trying to find great bikes on such short notice would be greater than just buying some when we get there.

My wife is looking for a town bike for

Thanks,

Eric


texts: What is a good gents' hat to wear while cycling in formalwear?

texts:
As a natty man-about-town, I don't like to go out without a hat. As I always go out by bike, this limits my hat selection considerably to those that will stay attached to my head in any wind, but not using a chin strap or similar which might risk strangling me if the hat gets caught in low overhanging branches.

My everyday solution to this problem is the flat cap. It's smarter than a cycling cap or baseball cap, and its modest peak doesn't generate enough lift to carry it aloft except in the strongest head winds. It also helps that flat caps have been fashionable for the last few years.

Flat caps really don't go with formalwear, though. If I'm cycling to a job interview or a formal dinner, and I'm wearing a suit or a dress suit, I can't wear a flat cap, a sports cap, or a beanie over that. My hair isn't long enough to support a hat pin of the kind you'd see in a ladies' hat. Is there a style of hat that would satisfy both the practical and sartorial constraints of that situation?

N.B. I don't wear polystyrene hats, so please don't post a comment or answer trying to convince me to wear them.


texts:
I'm working on a bike with Shimano Di2 (electronic shifting with servo motors in the derailleurs), and I use the e-tube software on a laptop to configure it.
What I would like to do is be able to password protect the derailleurs setup so it is not able to be changed unless the owner wants it changed. So it's not able to be changed by someone else without the owners permission.


texts: My chain skips on the front chain rings. What do I do?

texts: I currently ride a Cannondale Catalyst 3 and I've noticed my chain doesn't like to catch on my front chainrings. I'm very new to mountain biking and I am on a very low budget, so is there any way to fix this problem without spending $100? Do I have to get new chain rings, a new crankset, or something else? I'm a student and I don't have all those fancy tools that are specially designed for bike work. Any suggestions on what I should do?


texts:
I read an article in the Wall Street Journal about a recent study that concluded that motion-based lighting is the most effective technique for drawing motorists' attention.  I believe the recommended that cyclists wear a lighted strap around their ankles so their leg movement will be visible from any angle.

Do any products exist yet like this?


texts: Bike Size to Human Size Conversion Chart

texts:
I am just shopping for used bikes right now online.  I want to try and save myself a trip to visit the bikes by determining which bikes will fit me.

Does anyone have an approximate height-bike size conversion chart or inseam-bike size conversion chart?

I know that this will not 100% accurate as Sheldon Brown observes.  I was just hoping to get an approximation.


texts: Can I use a 700c suspension fork on a 27.5" frame?

texts:
I have an old hybrid which is a 700c with a front suspension fork which I don't use any more.

Could I swap that fork over to my new 27.5" bike?

My main concern is the wheel size differences.


texts:
Can anyone guess what type of bottom bracket this is?  I'd like to get all the parts ready so I can open and clean it all at once.

It is a Bottechia 989 frame that I bought in Egypt.


texts: Trouble Removing bottom bracket. Is it my Tool?

texts:
I'm having trouble removing my bottom bracket.  I'm using quite a bit of force as far as I can tell. But neither side is budging. The bike is a 2011, and I've never removed the bottom bracket, but it's all aluminum, so I doubt the problem is with rust.   It's quite difficult to keep the tool from slipping out.  I've used this tool before on another bike without too many problems, but I just can't get it to work, and I don't want to strip the cups or do something destructive as this is my good bike.

On the Park Tool website it says you can use a skewer to hold the tool in place if you have a hollow axle, but I don't have a hollow axle. I noticed that my tool works differently than the one on their site, and that the wrench is quite close into the bottom bracket. Mine mounts on a socket wrench, with a 1/2 adapter, and therefore is quite a bit out from the bottom bracket.  There are pictures below to illustrate the situation.

Update

I was able to remove the non-drive side by using my vise grips to grip the tool closer to the bottom bracket. The drive side still won't move, but the vise grips are slipping, not the bottom bracket tool, so I think I may just replace the tools if they have something better at my local bike store.


texts: Fitting Matchmaker X to SRAM Guide T brakes?

texts:
I've got a prebuilt MTB that came with an SRAM NX drivetrain and Guide T brakes and I'm looking at upgrading the drivetrain to higher end parts.
I'm thinking about taking the upgrade opportunity to switch to the Matchmaker X system, the new shifter will definitely be compatible and I can get hold of a clamp like this without an issue:

I understand that the new shifter will be attached to the screw thread facing downwards. The SRAM website claims my Guide T brakes are Matchmaker compatible too (https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/db-gde-t-a1) but it doesn't look like it from their picture as its a two bolt clip similar to this image. My brake body has half the clamp molded into it, then the second piece fits on the back.

The Guide R below appears to be attached through Matchmaker, but the body is a completely different shape below. It appears to have a small wedge with a hole for the Matchmaker clip's bolt to fit through

I'm either missing something silly, or are there are multiple versions of Guide T brakes with different body styles that SRAM doesn't make clear on their site?


texts:
I was just riding my bike like normal the other day and the crank arm started slipping. Upon further inspection, I discovered the 'bolt' that connects the crank arm on the drive side to the chainring was sheared off.

What is this missing part called? How can I fix this?

I have no idea where to start with this repair... Can anyone help me? I'd love some advice on all my options from cheap to overhaul. Plus some expert terminology for all relevant parts so I'm not just saying stuff like a dummy :)


texts: Almost all cyclists who ride road bikes set the seat so high, and when they're in the drops their body can be almost parallel with the road, reducing air resistance. However,their legs can't reach the road from the saddle, and their head is pushed down and it could be dangerous in some situations. With a low saddle position, I feel comfortable and can easily reach the road from the saddle, and my head is upright. When I want to be more aerodynamic, I can drop my upper body and push my rear behind the seat. So why don't cyclists use a low position seat?


texts: Is it possible to convert a single speed rear wheel into a multi-speed rear wheel?

texts: If I buy a wheelset that was meant for a single speed bicycle, how could I convert that wheelset to a multi-speed bicycle? Note that I am not asking about converting a fixie ride into a multi speed one, I only care about the wheels. Tutorials and video links are welcome!


texts: Brake callipers not long enough to allow adjustment of pads

texts:
I upgraded the standard Tektro brakes on my SE Lager to Shimano 105s. The braking performance is vastly improved. I also have Charge Plug wheels, rather than the stock wheels.

However I've noticed that there's not quite enough adjustment in the calipers to position the pads correctly. Even at the lowest position in the caliper arms, the pads are still very slightly too 'high' and overlap the upper curve of the rim.

Is this a problem? Is there anything I can do to solve it?


texts:
I have really enjoyed Google Maps cycling directions but find it lacking a lot where I live. I really want to update the maps with new/better information but I don't know the what, how, or where.

What data can I submit to update Google Maps cycling data?
What format does the data need to be in to submit it to Google Maps?
Where do I submit this data? (i.e. url)
How is the data submitted?


texts: What kind of wheels use spoke washers/nipple washers?

texts:
Just that, what kind of wheels use spoke washers?

Is this a nice addition to any old wheel, or are certain rims designed to use these?  Would these perhaps help with a damaged spoke hole in a rim?

I'd guess you would not normally want to use these with rims not designed for them, because it would elevate the nipple head into the space occupied by the tube and tire.


texts: 19 inch frame MTB Issues for a guy standing 6 feet 3 inches tall

texts:
maybe a noob question.

I bought a 19 inch frame Hardtail MTB. I mostly ride for fitness and leisure. Have done some commutes as well. I faced some issues while riding long. I started having pains in the palms, and then I discussed with other local bicyclers.

The following was the observations by the local members of the community
1. The seat post cannot be adjusted to my height - seat post was already at the max and one of the members said that it may cause frame breakage on longer rides( I have done max 32km only twice or thrice)
2. I went three times on a 32km ride, and post that had problems with my palms going numb, and didn't ride for more than a week(started riding smaller rides ranging from 8 to 16kms)
3. Frame is too small i.e a 19inch MTB is too small for my height i.e around 6 feet 4 inches, would have to buy a 21 or 22 inch MTB considering my height.

My question is

Can i buy parts such that i can make the 19 inch  MTB fit for my height to be ridden.?

One of the members from a local group said the following

I can buy a 450mm seat post to increase the height of the seat post and the maximum amount of the seat post will be inside the cycle seat stem.. Hence it would create lesser impact on the frame.
I am planning to buy a butterfly bar, an adjustable stem, and also some bar tape to change the handles.

Would these be helpful in making for a more comfortable ride?? Help, observations would be great.

Edit

Cost of the bicycle Rs. 28000 - $400 approx.
The cost of the items I am planning to buy are no more than $30.

UPDATE :
@Gschenk

Thanks for the inputs, I tried sitting at the front most position on the saddle, this allowed me to be more upright and seems the COM is definitely at the place that you said, I tried varying hand positions as well(Tried narrowing it to over the brake lever more closer to the stem, this gives great relief, and was able to ride longer today :) ).


texts:
I'm upgrading an old MTB for commuting, it had a 5 speed on the back but I'm going to be putting on a new 26" rear wheel with a 7 speed cassette because the freewheel axle wobbles, makes noises and is clearly done.  The rear derailleur needs replacing because it doesn't changing gears properly and it jumps out of some gears.  So, I got a new chain, front & rear derailleur and I'm just waiting on the 7 speed gear selectors, all cheap parts but all I need.
The only problem is whether I got the right rear derailleur for the bike.  There is hanger mount and direct mount,  my old derailleur seems to be a kind of hanger mount but I read direct mount is better so I ordered that.
Can you tell me if the new derailleur will work with the new 7 speed cassette, I know it says 6 speed but it has enough travel to go from the spokes to the smallest gear.  The way is sits on the bike is pretty far back compared to what was there before.


texts:
I am not too technical when it comes to bikes, but I wonder about the change of rear derailleur.

I bought my daughter a second hand good shape bike for good money Cube Acid 240 disk with Altus 7 speed derailleur. I wonder if it would be possible to change the rear derailleur from 7 speed to 11 speed SLX? I wonder if it is possible, and if yes how much do you think it would cost (I assume changes will need to be made not just the derailleur but the more things on the bike) and whether it makes any sense?

Thank you in advance.


texts: Is there a way to hop up onto a parallel curb?

texts:
The scenario: you're riding in a curb-adjacent, paint-only bike lane. You happen to look over your shoulder (or in your mirror) and see a vehicle approaching from behind, either fully in the bike lane, or close enough that they can't safely pass. Assume that veering to the inside of the approaching vehicle's path (away from the curb) is not an option, and that there is no time to slow and dismount onto the sidewalk.

Is there any technique which can be used here to quickly lift the bike both up and to the side, while traveling at speed, such that you could safely continue your ride on the raised sidewalk until the danger has passed?

Answers that do not require suspension would be ideal, and it would be especially helpful (though improbable) to find a technique that can also be used while carrying reasonably-weighted (~10 pounds) panniers on a rear rack.


texts: How do I tell how worn my disc brakes are and what are the consequences of letting them wear too low?


texts: I have a really old bike that hasn't been ridden in dozens of years. Now tho, I want to update it to road bike. It is in really bad condition and because I'm from Eastern Europe, my budget is low. What parts do I need to change/add/remove? Size of frame is 56cm/22".


texts: Intersection detection doesn't notice me, what should I do?

texts:
I have just come to the USA (Bay Area) and got a bicycle to commute to my university. Being new to this place I kept wondering why sometimes I have to wait for a long time for a green light to make a left turn, and then a car comes along and the signal switches to green in ten seconds. Today I waited for a green light for five minutes and it did not come, since there were no cars in my lane. I started thinking I was insane, but then found this: How do Traffic Lights Notice Bicyclists? Sure enough, there are cameras in the intersection.

So how do people deal with this? Wait for a car? Turn on the red light? Use the pedestrian style of making left turns? Wave to the camera?


texts: My quick release rattles so how can I convert back to a fixed nut front axle?


texts:
I am trying to put the lockring back on my BB after adjusting it to reduce the play, but I am unable to full tighten it. I can hand tighten the lockring, but as soon as I try to use my hook spanner to tighten it more, it kind of slips and becomes loose again.

Are my threads toast? Is my lockring warped? Or could it be something else?

I did this same maintenance on my bike less than two weeks ago and I didn't encounter any problems.

FYI: My bike is a 1980's Raleigh Capri 410 with regular threads (righty tighty, lefty loosey)


texts: Shimano 105 RD-5501 on a six speed freewheel?

texts:
I was doing a cleanup at the storage room and found a box of mint 105 parts (brakes, FD, RD, triple crankset and BB). Based on the newspaper inside the box, the parts were laying there for at least 10 years.

I have a vintage Nishiki road bike with friction shifters and 6-speed freewheel and would like to upgrade it with 105 parts if possible.

I assume the brakes, BB and crankset should fit no problem. However, I'm a bit concerned whether the rear derailleur (Shimano 105 RD-5501) would work with friction shifters (SR Suntour, mounted on the frame)? And what speed freewheels might be compatible with it?

I don't have much experience with vintage bikes and parts so I hope you can help me out and tell me if my idea to upgrade the bike makes any sense?


texts: When using the front brake, should I always move my weight to the back or is just bracing with arms is sufficient?

texts:
I always thought that OTB is caused by deceleration if the rider stops too abruptly. But I've found an article that says:

  Jobst Brandt has a quite plausible theory that the typical
  "over-the-bars" crash is caused, not so much by braking too hard, but
  by braking hard without using the rider's arms to brace against the
  deceleration...

And also I've found an answer, that supports this argument.

On the other hand, there are also people who say otherwise.

I'd like to read opinions, supported by actual practice or science, on that topic.

P.S.
Personally, I only use the front brake while standing on the pedals and never when I'm sitting on the saddle, so I'm more able to control my balance, shifting my weight to the back more or less and bracing against the deceleration with my arms.


texts: Can a carbon fiber bike have rack eyelets?

texts: With the new generation of gravel bikes, I was curious if any of them are being made with carbon fiber frames and rack eyelets. Are carbon frames capable of bearing the weight of racks installed on the eyelets?


texts: What bottom bracket do I need for a decathlon rockrider 5.0

texts:
The bottom bracket on my Rockrider 5.0 has a little too much play in it so I figured it best to change it before I get a failure whilst I'm commuting. Does anyone know which bottom bracket I would need for it? Or advise on how I can find out? Also any ideas on what type of extraction/fitting tool I may need for this type of bottom bracket?
Thanks in advanced


texts: Any help getting info on this bike would be great. Only tags/badges are a Japan stamp and a diamond with a 5 in the middle under the frame. Thought maybe a Japanese knockoff from Schwinn but the bars and brakes are different.


texts: iPhone app to follow/navigate an imported .gpx

texts:
Is there an iPhone app that allows one to follow an imported .gpx track, in a car navigation-like way?

The apps I found so far, like Trails, can only display the track on a map. What I am looking for is a "download-and-forget" experience for my bike trips. I want to import a track and just look at my iPhone to tell me in which direction is the next waypoint, or how can I get back on track if I get lost.


texts: Alternatives for mineral brake fluid / oil (in a pinch)

texts:
In case you don't have 'original' bicycle specific brake fluid on hand (e.g. "Magura Royal Blood"), what might be a good alternative to use (in a pinch)
 in hydraulic (disc) brakes? (for brakes that take mineral oil).

How long would such an alternative last? Which problems might occur and how soon?

I've read a few suggestions for alternatives:

Fork cartridge oil (the lighter (more viscous) variant)
Total / Castrol LHM Plus Fluid ( I believe it's power steering fluid)

Questions:

What are some alternative (/better) suggestions for alternatives?
Would the Total/Castrol LHM Fluid or fork cartridge oil be a good alternative?
Does anyone have experience with using either a fore mentioned options for brake fluid?
Would the heat generated by braking be an issue for either of these/other alternatives?

What are the requirements for a good braking oil/fluid?, my thoughts:

High boiling point
high fluidity

Do you agree with these requirements? Did I miss any or are some of them simply incorrect?

Any suggestions are welcome.
Thank you!


texts: Rat a Tat noises coming from my bottom bracket area. Please help!

texts:
I recently got my single speed frame and forks powder coated and at the same time had a number of parts replaced - bottom bracket, chain ring, chain and freewheel cassette.  Really please with everything I took it for a ride and almost immediately heard a rat a tat noise coming from the bottom bracket.  Can be felt through the pedals and saddle.  The noise came and went so I returned it to the bike shop who checked and regreased everything.  They put their pedals on and stated the noise disappeared.  I've taken it out again and happily found the noise had gone until 3 miles in when I freewheeled for a bit and when I started pedalling the noise was back with a vengeance.  The volume varies and comes and goes but only ever appears after I stop pedalling for a bit and restart.  I'm convinced it is not my pedals as never been an issue and the noise just doesn't fit.

Any ideas before I go back to the shop to protest?


texts: Loose thread (stripped) tapered bottom bracket frame connection

texts:
The threads in the MTB frame that is supposed to hold the bottom bracket lock rings were very loose and it can't hold the bottom bracket in place. The previous bike owner tried to apply Teflon tape in it but the lock rings still moves out of the frame if pushed from the other side.

Any recommendations on what to do?

Add more Teflon tape?
Convert to a hollowtech crank?


texts: Chain really quite stretched, should I change cassette at the same time?

texts:
I measured my chain last night - 10 links were 25.8-25.9 cm.  So I ordered a new one, tools and spare link pins (Shimano 8-speed HG).  I'm thinking this amount of wear might explain why my least favourite gears feel and sound not quite right, while the ones I use the most are fine (i.e. the favourites are worn with the chain).

A new cassette isn't much money, but changing the cassette makes for a much bigger job, and I'd have to buy the tools.  As it is, it's the first time I'll have fitted a new chain.

The bike probably has 2000-2500 miles of mostly tarmac, just enough dirty stuff to get grit everywhere, taking ~100kg up some reasonably steep hills.

EDIT: The difference between my question and this one is that the old question doesn't say anything about amount of stretch (though the answers there would tend to suggest the bigger job)

EDIT2: I finally got the chance to get a photo in daylight.  I don't like the way the chain is sitting (at the top) on the sprocket it's meshed with, though the 11 and the 32 are better than I thought -- I overlaid the image of the teeth of the 28 (little used) on the 32 (works quite hard sometimes).


texts: Shimano Alfine lever does not seem to pump oil into the hose even with reservoir full

texts:
I am trying to refill a Shimano Alfine BR-S500 disk brake system with oil. I have filled the reservoir with mineral oil...

And am repeatedly squeezing the lever, but it feels like no oil is getting pushed into the hose line.

(Note that it is hard to see the clear oil in this photo, but the reservoir is full and the intake hole is submerged).

I have the bleeder at the bottom open 1/8 turn. I have also tried cracking the caliper apart just to see if any oil is coming down the line when I squeeze the lever, but none does.

The brakes were working fine before I drained it.

What am I doing wrong? How can I get the oil into the lines and into the caliper and pistons?

NOTES:

According to the manual, this system is not filled from the bottom like most oil-based bike brakes. Instead it says to open the bleeder at the caliper and then fill the reservoir up at the lever and pump the oil down.

(BTW: It is empty because I had opened the calipers to replace the o-ring in between the two halves.)


texts:
Could somebody please tell me what the numbers 19 and 12 mean that are stamped on my pedal axles?
I’m looking to buy new upgraded pedals for my new Scott aspect 940 but need to know the right diameter.
I hear a lot about 9/16 inch and half-inch, so are those numbers 19 and 12 telling me the exact diameter?
As you can tell I’m a bit of a novice any help would be appreciated.


texts: Use a 3x10 front derailleur on a 9sp setup

texts:
Just to see if anyone did this and if it works:

I am running a 3x9sp setup. I need to change my front derailleur.
Can I use a 3x10sp derailleur?

The shifter will still be a 3sp so the ratio will be fine. My only questions has to do with chain width and if it has clearance on the derailleur.

Thanks!


texts:
I have Shimano 105 Dual Pivot brakes on my bike. They are pretty old (~7 years), and, although I ride the bike very regularly, I do not use the rear brake much and it has become stiff. (By stiff, I mean that the brake does not fully spring back open when I release the lever.)

Previously when this happened, I took the brake off, cleaned it, and then oiled and adjusted the pivots. I used bike chain oil (wet lube). This worked well, but the brake went stiff again pretty quickly so I'm reluctant to do it again.

Does anyone have any tips for a long lasting repair? Should I be using bike oil? Is it worth fully dismantling them (is this possible/advisable?).


texts: Which threaded fasteners on a bike should not be lubricated?

texts:
I have the habit of lubricating most screws on a bike with whatever grease I have laying around, except those which aren't meant to be tightened completely, there I use threadlocker (for example the screw holding the brake lever on a canti brake lever set because it would make it compress to the point the lever gets squeezed and can't proerly be pulled anymore). I put some grease on the thread and sometimes on the bottom of the bolt head as well. Also other parts which might move/need loosening (e.g. inside of stem, seat clamp, seat post, cranks, ...) get some greasy treatment. I do this since I've had major problems in the past loosening screws and parts of all kinds, especially drivetrain related, presumable because when not greased water can get in and form rust etc making the two threads stick together. Or maybe different types of material tend to form a bond, not sure. And because in my head I have the idea that when there's less friction one can actually tighten a screw better. And because I assume it can avoid creaking sounds.

Does this make sense? (bonus question: I mostly use generic ball bearing grease for everything, would there be something more appropriate for things which get fastened?). I don't recall ever having problems with things coming loose due to this practice, but are there any screws or parts which should definitely not be lubricated and why?


texts: What does the number 3500 stand for on my Trek bike?

texts: I know that the higher the number the better the bike. My dad has a 4200, so I was wondering what kind of improvments are made to make his bike better? And also what does the number 3500 stand for on my bike?


texts: Safety comparison, downhill mountain bike vs. downhill ski

texts:
My twelve-year-old recently tried downhill mountain biking when we were in Lake Placid. He found it thrilling and would like to continue with this new sport now that we are back home. I am hesitant for him to practice this sport on a regular basis because of safety concerns. We allow

basketball (with mouth guard)
soccer (with shin guards)
swimming
tennis
cross country skiing
ice skating for fun

We do not allow games with a stick -- ice hockey, lacrosse. And we do not allow American football or downhill skiing.

I'd like to be reasonably consistent with our existing policy!

Where does downhill mountain bike riding (on an established track at a reputable ski center) fit, on the scale of things? He has asked for a full-face helmet and elbow and knee pads, because that's what he was given to use as part of the fee at Lake Placid.

I'd like to avoid fractures, of course, but I'd mainly like to avoid really serious injuries and things that might leave him with longlasting health problems such as a knee or back that is never the same again.

I'm not worried about scratches or bruises.

Responding to a comment:

  This can't be answered without knowing the risk-taking behavior of your kid.

He is a risk taker and has a diagnosed problem with sensory integration (motor planning).

However, I personally think the question I asked can be answered without this additional information.


texts: What kind of bike rack can go with this bike?

texts:
I'm looking for a bike rack to put on my bike so that I can hookup the baby seat with the bike. However, I don't see anywhere on my bike where I can mount the front bracket arms of the rack to it (please see pic.1). There is place to mount the lower arms, though (as shown in pic.2). Pic.3 shows the whole bike.

Do you know which bike rack can go with this bike?


texts:
When I ride up a particularly steep hill my chain nearly always comes off. It didn't used to do this but now happens practically every time. I presume something has either worn or come out of alignment. It's fine in normal riding, but can't seem to handle this more extreme situation.

What is it most likely to be?

Chain wear?
Chainring wear?
Front Derailleur issue?


texts: I've a diameter of 36.4mm, are there any dropper seat posts that make the size diameter for my bike?


texts: Campagnolo crank spider inter-compatibility between 'standard' and 'compact' chainrings

texts: Will a Campagnolo Athena (2014) crank spider and crank arm from a 'standard' chainring setup of 39/53 accommodate 'compact' chainrings of 34/50, also Campagnolo Athena (2014)?


texts: Shimano 105 R7000 drivetrain makes crackling sound

texts:
I got an Shimano R7000 groupset and have the following problem:

After degreasing my chainrings (54 – 36) and the cassette (28 – 11), the drivetrain makes normal noise. However after around 30km, the rear cassette (or chain?) begins to make noise in the lower gears. It is very noticable in the 36 - 28 (the smallest gear), 36 - 25 (2nd smallest gear), and 36 - 23 (3rd smallest gear) combination. Interestingly, the 36 - 21 or any higher combination does not produce the crackling sound.

I made a video which illustrates the behavior. I‘m starting in the 36 – 21 combination which makes normal noise. When shifting in a lower combination, you can hear the crackling sound. At the end, I shift back in the 36 – 21 combination which is totally fine.

Questions:

Does anybody experience a similar behavior when the drivetrain is dirty?
Is there anything to fix this crackling sound?

Additional information 2019-07-09:

Indexing: I don‘t think the indexing causes the crackling sounds, because i experimented with the barrel adjuster and it had no effect on the crackling sounds - it only effected my shifting
L-limit screw: Is set correctly (see photo below)
Derailleur cage: In my eyes, it seems a little bit bent. It is the normal position of a Shimano cage? (See photo below)

Additional information 2019-07-30:

I changed the chain, no effect. Can the spokes produce such a pinging sound? If yes, how can I check spoke tension?


texts:
Is resurfacing the brake pads in disc brakes (hydraulic or mechanical) necessary?  If so, what would you use to do this - medium sandpaper?

I spoke to one mechanic while shopping for a bike, who suggested resurfacing on a monthly basis...


texts: How I can remove this freewheel (without "destroying" it)?

texts:
How I can remove this freewheel (without "destructing" it) ?
By "destructive removal" I mean this:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-destructive-removal

P.S.
I found this tool:
unior tools
But it seems to me to be overpriced (95$),
UPDATE:
I found some indian tool online, which I assume should be much cheaper.
But I didn't find meanwhile, from where I can buy it online.
link to video
link to shop


texts: Why is wearing a skin suit in the Tour de France risky?

texts:
I was watching Stage 1 of the tour and the commentators said that it was 'risky' for Cav to wear a skin suit.

As far as I'm aware, the benefits of a skinsuit are that it's lighter and more aero.

The downsides are that there's no storage for gels/bars. However, surely he can get gels/bars from other riders  in the team.

Are there other downsides I'm not aware of? Why is it risky?


texts: Fracture in folding frame - safe to ride?

texts:
I cycle every day because I live in a city and I find it a fun, fit and convenient mode of transport. I am not a cycling hobbyist, am only averagely fit and know pretty much nothing about bike engineering. So every year or so I take my bike in to the shop for servicing.

The bike in question is a Dahon Jack - it's a full-sized frame folding model. So the frame design is a bit unusual. It looks like this:

The last time it was serviced, a couple of weeks ago, the man in the shop drew my attention to a small crack in the frame. It's on the very top bar and has originated in the gap in the frame where the bike folds. Here's a photo:

The two white lines on the tip of the crack are scratches I put there to see if it's getting any bigger. It hasn't in the two weeks since it was discovered.

The guy in the shop said that while any frame crack is serious, this probably wasn't a big deal. Because it's a folding bike, the load is carried on the thick diagonal strut instead of the top bar. So even if that top bar does suddenly split, it's not going to cause the bike to collapse or throw me off.

He advised me not to take it off-road (which I never do anyway) but that otherwise I should be safe to ride for the time being, unless the fracture grew significantly.

Is he right? Should I get this bike replaced right away? If not, how long do you think it might be safe for me to continue to ride, and what warning signs should I look for to say it's no longer safe?


texts: Do "trailer bikes" help kids learn to ride a bike on their own?

texts:
I'm considering getting a trailer bike for my 3 year old (image below) but want to know if it will help or hurt progression toward him riding independently.

He's amazingly fast on his Strider no-pedal balance bike but hasn't shown much interest in riding his 12" "real" bike with training wheels.  I'm hoping a trailer bike might help him bridge the gap but in the interest of getting him to ride his real bike independently, would the trailer bike help or hurt the cause?

Thanks


texts:
I have a gearless bicycle. I ride it about thrice a week. Its spokes are rusted. Any suggestions to clean the rust?
Also I need some good technique to clean the bicycle with rags and household material. Please help.


texts: Difference between road & mountain drivetrain

texts:
Basically MTB and road bikes have different brand parts  (like deore / XT; Sora / Utegra etc).

What are the main differences between the 2 types, that will make it incompatible?
Are there things that do differ, but not affecting the whole system, so I can change only one of them to improve my commute?


texts: How might I measure the proportion of a ride spent in various hand positions, or has it been studied?

texts:
This is something I've been pondering for a while, but a recent question How much faster when using drops and particularly Weiwen Ng's answer prompted me to give it more thought.
It's often said that most of the time on a drop bar bike is spent on the hoods, and that feels plausible, but I know with sustained headwinds I've ridden a long way in the drops (and much of the rest on the tops for a stretch on the rare sections out of the wind).  To plug in to calculators, and for curiosity, how might I measure the proportion of a (long) ride spent in various positions?  I'd assume a solo ride, so any solution would need to be mounted on the bike and not affect riding (too much) though a difference between solo and group rides would be particularly interesting and may explain some comfort issues.  Alternatively published data would be of interest, though very limited interest if it relates to pro races.


texts: Shimano gear cable adjuster barrel replacement

texts:
I have a hybrid-style bike with Shimano parts and I'd like to replace the gear cable "adjuster barrel" (?) on the shifter next to my front left brake, as I have mangled it by twisting it with a pair of pliers.

However, I'm not sure exactly what part I need to buy. This looks similar: http://www.halfords.com/cycling/parts/gears-drivetrain-cables/shimano-rd-7700-cable-adjuster-bolt-unit#tab3 ...but it says that it's for the rear derailleur rather than a front shifter, so I'm not sure if it's the right part. If not, could anyone tell me exactly which part I'd need to buy?

Thanks.


texts:
I got a Cannondale Quick1 2010, with the seatpost made with aluminium carbon-wrapped.

The problem is that the seatpost tends to slide downwards, even if I squeeze a lot the snap ring; if the ground is uneven the seatpost slips completely.

Is there a way to solve this problem?

Many thanks.


texts: Need help replacing old cassette and chain

texts:
I have an old bike with a cassette and chain that needs replacement.  The problem is that I can't identify what kind of cassette it is or how to remove it.

There are 14 teeth on the smallest cog and 28 teeth on the largest cog on the cassette.  How do I remove it? There are only two nuts.

Will the bike take any Shimano chain (that matches number of links of the current chain?)

From comment:

I took the wheel off, i watched the video from Parktool but couldn't see any groves inside the cassette


texts:
Factors Influencing Air Density are: Altitude, Air Temperature, Air Humidity and Barometric Pressure. Calculator: http://barani.biz/apps/air-density/

How does riding at different air densities affect Power Output and Speed?


texts:
I want sun protection for my arms.

I bought these from a bike shop.

They fit VERY tightly to my arms.

When I wear them, they cause me to sweat about twice as much as wearing a long sleeve polyester shirt.

Is that normal ?


texts: If I change my cassette, should I also change the chain?

texts:
If I change my cassette to a new one, should I also change the chain?

I measured the chain with a wear gauge and it's ok.

Just to emphasize the obvious: I'm changing the cassette to one of exactly the same type.


texts: Name that frame! (Likely Japanese, likely made in 1986, with known serial number, likely a Bianchi)

texts:
(This post was substanically edited/updated on 5/8/14.)

I have a bike frame of unknown lineage.

What is known:

The serial number under the bottom bracket is IS513786. This fits with the serial numbers for Japanese made Bianchis.
The frame has Shimano EF rear dropouts that are stamped with 'IJ'. That means they were made in October 1984.
Although I can't be sure that the fork is original, the steering tube has "Tange.5.I" and a 'J' and 'S' in a circle stamped on it. Also, the crown race was originally JIS sized.
I got the bare frame, not the complete bike, and the paint is not original.

The dropouts were made in late '84 and we now know that the last two digits of the serial number do not represent the year. (E.g., this '89 Japanese Bianchi has a serial number ending in 86.) So the frame is likely from a '84 or '85 Bianchi (since the dropouts were made late in '84).

FWIW, I've posted pictures below; I've made sure to point out things that could help identify the frame (braze-ons, lug style, etc.). I've tried to arrange the pictures with the most identifying characteristics first.

FWIW, Here is a similar looking, but not identical, 1986 Bianchi Brava. (That Bianchi has the chainstay cable stop on the underside, while my bike has the cable stop on top.)

(I posted this information on a couple bike forums a few years ago. If you want to see what people said, here are the links to the two threads on bikeforums.net and roadbikereview.com.)

The bottom of the bottom bracket, including the serial number. Also note that there is a chainstay bridge.

The front of the headtube front. Note that the lugs have points in the middle (unlike some other Japanese lugs from that era).

The Shimano EF rear, drive-side dropout. Note that there are no eyelets. The date stamp is on the back side, so it is not shown.

The top of the seat stay cap has a flat surface and has nothing written on it. (Some bikes, like high end Miyatas, have curved caps and/or the company name cast into the caps.)

The head tube has a pump peg.

EDIT: The whole frame:

The side of the bottom bracket:

The frame's downtube shifter mounts:

The seat stays have a chain hanger. Edit: it's hard to see, but the chainstay cable stop is on top of the chainstay -- not below it.

The fork:


texts:
I have a bike I purchased from a rental company about 8 years ago. It would have been three years old then, so that makes it a 2008 year bike. I could have sworn it was made by a medium end bike company, like Trek or Specialized, but I can't remember. I've also covered the bike in bumper stickers so I can't see the original graphics. I do have a logo from the front though.

It's a 24 speed but I really doubt that that matters. Here's a side view, but it just looks like a pretty generic bike to me.

I don't think it is a duplicate because I really don't care who made it, but the bike is for sale and a potential buyer may care.

This bike was rented, and later purchased, on Cape Cod, United States.


texts: Which exercises a cyclist should do before/after any ride?

texts: Any exercise that can help the muscles to have more optimism while riding, or relief sore on muscle. I also accept any special massage.


texts: Imprecise shifting on a Shimano 9 speed set

texts:
Edit: Jeff’s answer - replace the cable housing - fixed the problem. I made sure the highest and lowest alignments were correct, that the cogs lined up with the gears, and then replaced all cable housing for the rear gears. It’s now shifting as expected.
I have the following rear components:
Shimano ST-4500 shifter, Tiagra
Shimano RD-M591 rear derailleur
They’re both supposed to be 9 speed. The rear derailleur is long cage. For completeness, I have a 3x front chainring set and that works mostly Ok.
The problem is when I shift from one direction to another, it takes two clicks to make the change. If I’m shifting in the same direction, one click works after that. I’m kinda-sorta used to it, but it’s annoying when I want to change just one gear in the other direction. Sometimes, after shifting twice to change directions, it’ll shift spuriously one more in that direction and then I have to reverse it to get it where I want it. It’s like one of the components is meant for 10 speeds and the other is for 9, but the manuals say they’re both 9.
Any suggestions? I’ve seen elsewhere that a Shimano RD-M592 would be compatible with the ST-4500, but I’m not sure why the M591 wouldn’t be as well.
Oh, cables are new; components have been cleaned and seem to work, otherwise. The cable housing from the shifter is somewhat old, and could probably be replaced, but the cable seems to slide through it well enough.
Thanks!


texts: Why don't standard bike chains have inner/outer combo links so odd chain lengths are possible?

texts:
I noticed while at an amusement park that on the roller coaster, each link of the chain has what can be considered a combination inner and outer plate.  The side plates are somewhat diagonal so they start as an outer then become an inner.  So my question is if these work well for roller coasters which have a lot of load, why not use a similar scaled down design for bikes so that odd length chains are possible?

Here is a pic of a roller coaster chain so you can see what I am talking about: (you can click on it for a more detailed larger pic).

Maybe this design wont shift well?  I wonder what the main reason is.  Motorcycles also do not use it.  Maybe large pitch chains require it cuz being 2 links too long or short is a big difference but with a short pitch chain (1/2 inch or so), it is not so critical?


texts: Can someone give me a short description and comparison of the different road cycling pedal / shoe systems?

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I am looking at buying a pedal/shoe system as the clips and straps I am using are hurting my feet again.

It's been a long time since I have bought a road pedal / shoe system, and I have forgotten the differences between SPDs, Look pedals and all the others.

Can someone give a short comparison of each pedal system with pros and cons of each? My usage is/will be mainly city street cycling and then road cycling (recreation, not racing).

I'd prefer if people would give the pros and cons of each and not their opinion on the "pedal system war".  :) However, "I use them because I find XYZ and it helps in ABC ways" is very useful.


texts: Rear Derailleur wire sags completely in higher gears

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I have a Shimano 7 speed rear derailleur which used to work properly. Lately I observed I was unable to shift down to gear 7 from 6 but let the problem be. The derailleur would move very little (there wasn't even any grinding sound against sprockets when shifting).
Now the gear won't even shift from 4 to 5. Derailleur works fine till gear 4 but as soon as I shift to gear 5, the movement is miniscule. I checked the wire and it was all slack (literally hanging with 0 tension) in this position. Clicking to shift down to 6 or 7 doesn't even produce a clicking noise and there is no effect on wire/
derailleur.
I have read about wire tightening (per this question) but those steps require chain to be on lowest cog. My wire goes all limp in gear 5 and chain is on fourth sprocket. Can I undertake the tightening procedure in this situation? How do I gauge requisite wire tension in this case?


texts: Higher saddle height and pressure on palm

texts: It is recommended to adjust saddle height using a formula. I made calculation and adjusted the saddle position to a higher point than my usual riding position. But now pressure on my palm increased significantly in spite of comfort in riding. Should I use some hand gloves or put some good type of handlebar cover? What are the recommendations for saddle height and palm pressure adjustment?


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I have a city bicycle with an internally geared hub. The problem with it is that all the 3 gears are too small, and I have a few hills around.

Is it possible to tune the gears so that they larger?


texts: Does anybody know what brand this  logo is for bikes?


texts: Can I replace an inner tube with a Dunlop valve with one with a Schrader valve?

texts: I've accidentally bought an inner tube with a Schrader valve for a bicycle that's currently fitted with Dunlop valves. Can I still use it or they require holes in the rim of a different size?