texts: Why do riders not take advantage of other riders misfortune

texts:
Today on the Tour de France, Vincenzo Nibali attacked while Chris Froome was having mechanical difficulties. According to the commentators and Froome himself, that's something you just don't do. Apparently it's seen as unsportsmanlike. Where does this come from, and why would a rider not take every advantage possible in order to win the race? I understand why it would be in bad form to do something like that on a casual group ride, but it seems like any advantage you could get in a professional race would be fine.

It's especially interesting because Nibali lost a lot of time in the first week due to mechanical problems and a crash. It seems from comments surrounding the occurrence today that it's only bad form to leave the race leader behind when he has a mechanical problem. Can somebody please explain this to me. In any other sport somebody who has an equipment malfunction is just supposed to deal with it, and nobody is going to slow down for them.


texts: Difference between Shimano HG and XT cassettes

texts:
I'm looking to build a 1x10 commuter bike.

Want to decide between these two cassettes

XT series:

http://a.co/d4ez069

HG series:
http://a.co/j4z8KFn

How do they differ?

I still haven't bought chain and crankset.


texts: DT SWISS 1800C Spline converting from 142-12mm to 135-10mm thru bolt

texts:
I'm building up my AWOL 2016 model and bought new wheels and front fork. With the front wheel I have no issue, but the back wheel presents a small problem.
The wheels i bought are DT Swiss C 1800 SPLINE db 23 - Wheelset - Clincher - Centerlock / IS - FW: 12/15x100mm / QR | RW: 12x142mm / QR - 2019
I want to convert them to 135x10mm through bolt and not through-axle, as my frame doesn't support it. I emailed DT Swiss and they advised me to buy this conversion kit:

Caps: DT Swiss Conversion Kit for 240s/350 RW Disc Brake to 10x135mm Thru Bolt - HWGXXX0006560S
Thru bolt: DT SWISS Quickrelease RW RWS Thru Bolt TA10 135x10 mm

All looked good until I got them. The main issue is that they do not have those, steel ribs (Have no clue how to call them properly) and just look like a standard thru axle end caps.
They look more like this version, but in 10mm:

DT Swiss Conversion Kit for 180/240s/350 RW Disc Brake to 12x135mm Thru Axle - HWGXXX0003910S

There is another version of those end caps, like this one: HWGXXX00S3218S, but apparently they won't be compatible with my hub.
It seems that even retailers have a hard time to give a proper advice.
In short, they should have some sort of a lock nut on them, but they don't. When I was writing this, I came across the conversion kits from Mavic from 135 to QR and they also don't have those steel ribs on the sides. Is it normal those days and can I just install those end caps with RWS and it will be fine and secure?


texts:
As shown in the photo, what tool do I need to take this rear hub apart? I assume I need a tool which will fit in the 4 notches.

The problem I am trying to fix is that if you pedal, the rear cog spins but does not turn the rear wheel. Any pointers on that would be appreciated. I guess I will find out the problem when i see inside.

Thanks!


texts: What is causing this chain clicking noise?

texts:
The click only happens when the chain is moving in certain locations. If the gear is low it happens every rotation and if the gear is high it happens 2 or 3 times per rotation of the pedal.

I am trying to figure out if the chain is stretched or somthing is wrong with the cassette.

To explain this more I have uploaded a demostration video of how it sounds.

This happens on multiple gears at different locations on the chain. It happens more than once every turn of the pedal depending on the gear.

Update: measured chain for stretching and looks like no issues.

UPDATE: Fixed by adjusting the cable tension using rear barrel adjuster about half a turn.


texts: How much can I reuse paraffin to wax to my chain?

texts:
I've been waxing my road and mountain bike chains for a few years now, and have always used just paraffin wax.  Typically, I leave the leftover melted wax in the heating element (an old slow cooker) for use the next time, so the wax that's in there now has been heated up and cooled off several times now.

I've noticed that early on when the chain had cooled off it was incredibly stiff with wax, whereas now it's still stiff but much less so.  I'm wondering if the age or constant heating/cooling of the wax is producing a worse/different lubrication.

Should I completely replace the wax every time, or just more frequently, instead of repeatedly re-using it?


texts: How do I stop people blaming me for a crash?

texts:
I regualrly communte to work in central London and am a careful cyclist. I am a quite guy and mind my own business - I hardly talk and try not to get into confrontations. The other week I was involved in a serious crash that was entirely the fault of the pedestrian who decided to walk out in between 2 buses and was on her phone whilst crossing a busy road - I saw here really late and crashed right into her at a high speed; I was flown forward into the road - she collapsed and thankfully after a few minutes she got up albeit with a number of injuries herself; I also still have injuries to bear but has not stopped me from cycling.

The problem was that when the crash happened a lot of people came to help (mainly her) but there were one or two who said "why was I not looking" and "you need to be more careful". I do not talk much and I was also in slight shock (the wind was taken out of me) however, once the lady got up she apologized a lot and said it was entirely her fault and the bus driver also agreed.

However, some people still gave me dodgy looks and I was thinking what else could I have done or said to make them believe it was not my fault? If I said anything it may have aggravated the situation and with me being silent it kind of still aggravated the situation...its a no win situation.

If only she had walked a few meters to the traffic lights this whole mess would never have happened and if only she had been watching the road instead of her phone - I hope she is fine and learnt a valuable lesson but I am yet to decide how else I could have handled this.

UPDATE:

Didn't think this would blow up the way it would...thanks for the posts.

Some points...

Am I at fault - yeah, probably, and I am one of the first to apologise (if you know us British people we say sorry even when it is not our fault) - however I am yet to see how I could have possibly seen her hidden between two buses and squeezing past them running to reach the other side. Even if I was going at 1 mph or 2 0mph - I just would not have seen her until the very last second - granted a lower speed means greater reaction time however (read later on) after 10 years of cycling this I never expected to see this in any day of the week.
I travel this path everyday (weekday) for the past 10 years - its not like this was new to me.
I am not a racer, nor do I have a racing bike - I do not have the fancy gadgets some poeple have - asking me "how fast I was travelling" will not bring any fruition as I have no idea...which leads me to the point of the "high speed" I mention is something I would consider in myself that I am doing - I am one of the slowest in a group of riders so I think you guys seem to think I was going at some crazy speed - I am a commuter rider, not a racer - so not sure if this came across.
This happened between Bank and Chancery Lane - if anyone knows this place there is a slope down to the traffic lights whereby you can easy go above your normal speed (however, not too much high speed as traffic tends to turn left at the lights so your constantly on your brakes anyway...I can't be too sure but I reckon I may have been braking as I apprached the green lights.
There was no bus stop nor any people coming off buses - I am not sure why some of you think this? Even the bus driver who came off the bus sided with me (which surprised me as Buses can be an pain with cyclist) - if there were people coming off a bus then why would anyone cycle fast? That would be self-defeating.


texts: What regulations apply to bicycles in New York City, USA

texts: I have heard of many incidents where cyclists got ticketed for something small, but I can't find the actual rules for cyclists online anywhere. Where are they?


texts:
I'd like to install a bullhorn handlebar on my existing hybrid bike and would prefer to continue using my flatbar Shimano STI R42O gear/brake lever system rather than a bar end brake/shifter solution. I have a 2/8 gear configuration and caliper brakes.

I've been researching it for a couple of hours now and it seems as though this may not be possible. Why? Is it to do with the space required for mounting the brake/shifter? Or is it simply down to the market not providing compatible bullhorn bar and shifter ring diameters?


texts: Does anyone know who made the part that attaches the shifter to the bar?

texts: Looking to set something up like this with bullhorns, can't find the part to attach shifter to bar.


texts:
My bicycle went from this when I bought it:

To this when I crashed (note the front fork bent where it attaches to the stem; front wheel almost touches the down tube):

Update: Just looked at the frame and saw cracks in the paint on top tube and down tube.


texts: Are older road bike parts compatible with newer standards? How do older and newer bikes match up performance wise?

texts:
I'm a big mountain biker and looking to get into road biking.  However, I don't want to drop $1,500 on a new or relatively new road bike without being sure I'd want to stick with it.  Anyway, I found an old 1974 men's Schwinn Varsity 10 speed road bike on Craigslist for about $100 and I'm not sure of a few things:

First, I'd like to upgrade a few parts on the bike if I do buy it, e.g.: clipless pedals, possibly a drivetrain overhaul, etc.  The only thing I'm not informed of is compatibility.

Second of all, I really have no idea how a bike this old would match up to a bike from the last 5 years or so.  I'd be riding with people from my local bike shop and I wouldn't want to have a tough time keeping up because of shortcomings in my ride.  Obviously a newer bike is better, but does the difference really matter if I'm not doing the Tour de France?


texts: Is the cable pull of Shimano GRX FD-RX400 same as the one of 10- or 11-speed road groups?

texts:
What is the required cable pull for FD-RX400?

AFAIK Shimano road 11-speed front deraileurs require the same (larger) cable pull, while 10- and fewer-speed FDs expect lower one (with exception of Tiagra 4700, which uses the "11-speed" pull).

Does 10-speed GRX belong to either camp?


texts: How to find compatable cassette for older Shimano

texts:
I have a 2002 Diamondback Oakpiont. The derailleur says c201. Is it freewheel or cassette? If it's cassette, the last gear seems to be the nut (12 notches). Here is link to the bike on Bikepedia.

How do I get the right cogs/freewheel? And will this tool set work for my needs?


texts: How to attach cable mounting points to a bicycle frame?

texts:
I have a frame-building project that is near completion: An old 90ies steel MTB frame was cut, and converted into a frame for a cargo bike.

In my enthusiasm, I have overlooked one detail: The original routing of the shift cables (shown in the photo below in green) is not possible any more, because

the frontal mounting points near the position of the former head tube were cut off (schematically shown in blue in the attached sketch), and
the cargo beam is attached below the bottom bracket, and therefore takes/blocks the former place of the shift cable guide.

My idea is now to re-route the shift cables along the top tube, as schematically shown in yellow in the photo.

However, I'm still missing the mounting points. If possible, I would like to avoid removing the paint and start welding again. Are there any options, like some cable casing mounting points that can be attached with screws, clamps, or something alike?

Since I believe that this could be interesting to any person that likes to tinker with old bike frames, I'm putting my question here.


texts: Does anyone has an experience putting mini-velo into a standard-sized luggage?

texts: Personally, I don't trust the designs of many folding bikes mainly because of frame failure issues. So, I am thinking about getting a mini-velo bike, but I wonder if it is possible to fit the bike into a standard-sized luggage.


texts: How to pick mountain bike pedals (platform)?

texts:
I am new to mountain biking, I have a Novara Ponderosa 29er and one thing I have noticed is my feet are slipping off the pedals with frequency.  I don't have mountain bike specific shoes but I have been using skate shoes which are flat and have pretty good grip.  I started looking into getting some new pedals but I quickly realized that I could spend a wide range of money on them and I don't even know why.

What are the important aspects of shopping for new pedals and what are some of the nice to have features that could be a good reason to spend more?  I would like to stick with platform pedals because being new I like the ability to put my feet down.


texts: Are my cycling shoes too big? With 3/4 inch of room

texts: My shoes came in the mail and I have about 3/4 inch of room to the end. On a short ride I didn’t notice any slipping when I had the boa tightened all the way up. I also don’t have any hotspots or blisters. If my shoes are too big will they affect my efficiency or are they fine?


texts: Is there a difference between mountain and road stems?

texts: I see them advertised as being good for one or the other. Is there really a difference? Or is it just a marketing gimmick?


texts: Can I carry my folding bike by using the rack as a handle?

texts:
I put a new rack on this bike. The rack says it can hold up to 25 kg which is about 50 pounds. Can I use this rack to grab it and carry it while it is folded? The bike is about 35 pounds.

Or this way (holding the crank?)? In this position, it rests on the frame.


texts:
I'd like to create a terminology index for the types or categories of riders, similar to this question. By types of riders I mean the categories that pro racers are often identified as being part of or self identify as, i.e. sprinter, climber, time trailist ...

Rules

Answers should include:

One type of rider per answer - i.e. the answer title is "Sprinter"
A description of the the archetype of the rider
An example of a pro who embodies the archetype
A picture of the aforementioned pro that shows body type


texts: Changing the Crankset on a Stevens Cityflight

texts:
I bought my first used Roadbike a few months ago, after some intensive riding the shaft was displaced a few mms to the left leaving the right side with less tooth-length which subsequently lead to the wear out of the teeth on both the shaft and the crank arm. Long story short, I need a new crankset.

I have a 2009 Stevens Cityflight, which has the FC-S500. This crankset is very hard to find online. I am considering some other choices, the question is :
are cranksets standardized so that any set is mountable on any bike, at least when it's from the same manufacturer? If the length of the shafts, and diameters of bearings do vary where can I find the compatibility


texts: Why would someone put drop bars on a bike upside down, with the brake levers pointing backwards?

texts:
A couple of time recently I've seen a bike being ridden near work with drop bars, but upside down and with the brake levers facing towards the rider.    By upside down, I mean as if the stem bolts were loosened and the bars rotated 180°, not set up like bullhorns. I'm inclined to assume that this is a misguided attempt to make the bike more comfortable, but it looked the right size for the rider, who was riding on the bar tops when I saw him this morning. It would seem like the brakes are almost impossible to reach quickly or to cover.

What benefit could this have for the rider?


texts: Sunglasses anti-fog solutions safe for cycling

texts:
I wear full sun protection when I ride, including sunglasses and a tube wrap around the lower half of my face.  The issue I have is that in cool weather the wrap tends to channel air from my lungs up through my sunglasses which then fog up.  This is mainly a problem only when climbing hills, as at all other times there is sufficient air flow from my speed to keep my lenses free of fog. Fog obviously obscures my vision and is a safety problem.

At bit of research shows many different anti-fog solutions, including soap, shaving lotion, and special liquids made just for anti-fog.  The problem is, I have not been able to get a clear answer as to whether any of these are safe or suitable for cycling.  The anti-fog liquids seem geared towards things like swimming and diving, as do most of the reviews.  Some of these products list sunglasses as a possible application, but do not say whether they are safe to use given the many sensitive types of coatings some sunglasses already have applied.  In fact, several places I have read claim one should not use certain types of anti-fog coatings as they can affect the plastics in the sunglasses or the anti-reflective coating - it is hardly worthwhile to reduce fog if creates a new problem of reflective glare or the glasses falling apart.

Note that I'm not asking for a recommendation on eye wear as this post is doing.  I already have eyewear I am committed to using, and just want to know what anti-fog solutions (if any) are safe in terms of not degrading anti-reflective coatings, polycarbonates in the glasses, or the plastic in the frames.

I also already know the trick of breathing out through my mouth and don't want to use this as a long term solution as it makes my throat very dry in a short period of time.

Update: After extensive additional research I have come across a product called "FogTech".  The company claims that the product "contains proprietary self spreading water absorbers dissolved in a very special carrier that can wet plastics... The unique carrier evaporates immediately leaving a transparent micro-thin coating of Fogtech..." and further claims that it is completely safe to use even if the lenses have special coatings.  The only downside is that it is very expensive - as much as $3 for a single application.  Any first hand experiences with this product would be welcome - how well does it work, and more importantly, how long does an application last?


texts: Wheel building - how to tighten spokes to have perfectly equal tension

texts:
So far i figured it out following recipe for perfectly adjusted front rim:

Assemble the wheel leaving tiny portion of thread visible outside nipple for every spoke.
Tighten each nipple equal number of 360 degree turns (e.g. 6 turns out of 12 total).
Keep adding equal number of 90 degree turns to each nipple until you get equal tension of about 100 kgf (1000 N) for every spoke (remove spoke tension)
True the wheel (remove spoke tension)
Adjust the spokes again until you get equal tension of about 100 kgf (1000 N) for every spoke (remove spoke tension)
Keep repeating step #4 and #5 until you get equal tension for every spoke while rim stay's true.

Problem is that step #6 has to be repeated too many times, is there a faster way or can you advice any better sequence for wheel building?


texts: Do I have too much chafer strip showing after fixing a puncture?

texts:
I have had two innertubes explode on me on my bicycle, on the same wheel and tire. The first time I was inflating my inner tube after aquiring a puncture. On this occassion I was pumping my tires (rated at 50-90psi) beyond 70psi.

After the first explosion I replaced the innertube, being careful to avoid pinching. I pumped up to 60psi. A few days later the inner tube exploded while the bike was hanging on it's rack.

After becoming the recipient of yet another puncture on the same tire (city streets...), I am wary of my inner tube installation. This time I inserted the inner tube under the tire, moved the tire beed back to the inner rim, and carefully checked to ensure that no pinching occurred. I have now inflated the tire to 60psi.

My concern is that, despite being very careful, I have sections where beed appears to be showing. My question is, given the amount of bead showing (about 2mm in one section), could the inflation cause another inner tube burst?


texts: Reflective tape instead of rear reflector, in Australia

texts:
I currently have not enough room on my seat post for a saddle bag, rear reflector and a rear light.

My question is if replacing the rear reflector with reflective tape on the saddle bag would be enough to satisfy the law here? The law states: "a red reflector that is clearly visible for at least 50 m from the rear of the bicycle when a vehicle's headlights on low beam shine on it".

Note: My current rear light is a Lezyne Micro Drive Rear which doesn't act as a reflector.


texts: Adaptor for 20mm Shimano saint 810 hub to 15mm?

texts: Currently I'm running a Shimano Saint 810 front hub and fork Lyrik coil 20mm. I've a good offer on a brand new Manitou Mattoc 2014. But this fork uses 15mm axle. I'm looking for an adapter to be able to use this fork with the saint 20mm hub. I've looked everywhere, forums, online stores, etc, no luck so far. Seems I will need to change the hub and rebuild the wheel. Any recommendations?


texts: Compatibility for old Sram 7-speed shifter

texts: A buddy asked me to fix his bike. The shifter is broken. It's an older bike with a Sram SRT300i-71 shifter. I found an exact match on that is fairly cheap on ebay, but I also found a similar model on REI for even cheaper. I was wondering if this or any other newer 7-speed Sram shifter would be compatible. I'm not super familiar with older model shifters like these.


texts: Mounting caliper brakes without center hole

texts:
I recently purchased a used Bianchi Cross Concept. I'm trying to upgrade the entire groupset.
When coming to the rear brakes, I realized the bike frame has two holes (1 on each side) for mounting v-brakes. However, the new rear brakes are I got are caliper brakes which need to be mounted to a single hole in the center (see picture). It's a carbon frame so I can't drill anything.
I'm wondering if there are any methods to make this work, some sort of adapter perhaps?


texts: How to setup my 26er MTB for indoor MTB park

texts:
There is an indoor mountain bike park along the lines of Ray's MTB park being built near me (though I also road trip to rays and rent a bike).  Most of the riding here seems suited for a dirt jumper.

I don't own a dirt jumper. However, I have a 26er setup for XC riding that I havn't really been using since I got a 29er.  It's an older specialized rockhopper with a rockshox suspension fork, bb5 disc brakes, mountain triple, and 9-speed cassette.  The frame is a bit small for me.

What adjustments or parts swaps should I do to make this bike more suitable to this style of riding which includes jumps, rollers, pump tracks, and technical skill sections with narrows, teeter totters, etc...


texts:
I am a software engineer and live in Dhaka in Bangladesh.

My office is 7km far from my home.
I am planning to commute to my office by bicycle every working day.

Is this reasonable plan?
 This is my route


texts:
and just bought a bike and needs to inflate the tyres. I bought a muddyfox trade pump - see attached pics- but still can't fix the air pump head into my wheel. I guess it could be the wrong size or fit, can any one help what to do and how to do this?
Thanks


texts: Is a car "perfectly entitled" to turn left around cyclist

texts:
(I'm in the UK so we drive on the left)

This morning a driver pulled up alongside me (to my right) at a junction. As soon as a gap came available, I pulled out to turn left and he did the same, coming within a couple of feet of me as we turned. I verbally objected (what the ..?). He confronted me a little further down the road, and insisted he was "perfectly entitled" to turn left around a cyclist who is also turning left.

Is this correct? This was from a single lane road, turning into another single lane road.


texts: Cross-chaining on a 3x6 system -- how bad for wear?

texts:
I keep an old 3x6-geared MTBSO near work, and the front shifter is currently broken (smashed plastic gripshift).  It will be a few weeks before I can get it home to replace it with a spare, so I've currently used the FD limit screws to fix it into the middle chainring.  This leaves the gearing a bit low -- I don't have much accleration once I'm spinning over 100rpm which makes keeping up with traffic hard -- so I'd like to fix it in the big ring, but then for pulling away I'd be geared big-big.

Is this likely to significantly increase wear on the gears themselves?  It's only a BSO so I wouldn't mind, except I don't think the sprockets are ever coming off, and if they did, replacements would cost about as much as the bike is worth.


texts: I mistakenly put WD40 for my disc brakes and now pads not anchoring as well as before. Any solution?

texts: I heard it wears off after a few rides but it is still not gripping firmly. Is there any solution for this? I also saw using rubbing alcohol. Is that sufficient?


texts:
I have a city bike and it started doing some weird noises when brake.

I talked to my local bike shop and they said I should use some specific grease.

Unfortunately in the place where I am currently these brakes are not common at all and I will have to buy it in the Internet. I find several types though and  I am not sure what I should use.

https://www.amazon.de/Hanseline-Bremsmantelfett-Tube-45g/dp/B00O7YCRB0/ref=cts_sp_1_vtp?pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_p=1212178327&pf_rd_r=H51QEQ0XKJQCKF4P9SHV&pd_rd_wg=0FzNk&pf_rd_s=desktop-detail-softlines&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_i=B00O7YCRB0&pd_rd_w=5Yy6j&pf_rd_i=desktop-detail-softlines&pd_rd_r=H51QEQ0XKJQCKF4P9SHV&_encoding=UTF8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Roller-Brake-Grease-Fett-fur-Fahrrad-Rollenbremse-100g-Tube-149-50-KG-/400940846506?hash=item5d59efcdaa:g:q8MAAOSwDNdVg7se#shpCntId
http://practicalcycles.com/products/233125--shimano-roller-brake-grease-100g-tube.aspx

Which type of grease should I use for drum brakes?


texts:
I'm an amateur biker, but regularly bike to work.  I've been having a problem with my tubes going flat when the valve tears away from the tube.  Here's a (grainy) picture to demonstrate:

This is happening quite frequently.  It usually happens when I am pumping up my tires, but occasionally when I'm riding.

I've tried a few things with the nut (tightening it extra tight, keeping it loose, keeping it off altogether), but this keeps happening.  How can I stop this?  Is there anything stupid I'm missing?


texts:
The right gear shifter on my bicycle (which controls the gears on the rear wheel) has some wear holes and appears to be leaking oil over the shifter (see pictures). I'm fairly new to cycling, though, so I have no idea. My dad and I share this bicycle, and I don't think he rode the cycle with oil all over his right palm. I tried cleaning off the oil with soap, but it seems like it's still there.

Is there oil present inside the right gear shifter when the manufacturer built the bike?
Are the holes in the right gear shifter a possible cause for oil appearing on the shifter?
If so, what should I do about it? How should I go about fixing it?
If not, do I still need to worry about the wear holes in the shifter?

My dad bought the (Roadmaster) bike at Walmart about a year ago. It gets used pretty regularly except when it's snowing outside or in really bad rain.


texts:
I have managed to repair 10yr old diamondback hybrid as different parts fail. I even disassembled the rear wheel to replace few spokes. But I cannot figure out how to disassemble the rear v-brake arm. (I already replaced the front.)

In the second image you can see the regular bike bolt on the left. When I unscrewed that the arm came off. But looks like the bolt doesn't directly connect to the frame and there is something else (a boss?) between the bolt and the frame and that came off with the bolt.

The new brake (Shimano Mountain Bicycle V-Brake - BR-T4000 - Rear) is exactly like the old one, but does not have this extra piece. So I need to dissamble that from the old brame arm and reuse.

So far I have tried soaking in wd-40 and also freezing the whole thing and then heating the boss(?) but neither worked.

Also noticed that this piece is tubular and has threads inside. A regular bike bolt fits in there and probably it goes all the way. So screwing something into that doesn't give me much grip either because it turns the same way.

Any ideas other than 'take it to the bike shop'? Thanks.

The reason I need to replace the brake is that the small metal rod which pushes the brake away during releaseing the brake broke.


texts: Is there any significant gain of the bell super 3r mips over the 2r mips?

texts:
I am looking into buying a full face helmet with a removable chin bar, both the bell super 2r mips and bell super 3r mips seem to a good choice. The super 2r is about 90 pounds cheaper than the 3r and i would like to know if there is any big reason to get the 3r over the 2r.

Thanks.


texts: Options on converting away from the cotter pin cranks on bsa wayfarer bicycle

texts:
The shell diameter I just measured it at 70mm but am unsure about the threading.

However considering both the fixed and adjustable cups needed a hcw11 to remove, am told it's likely it uses raleigh proprietary threading.

Some guidence on what am  looking for will be greatly appriciated

If possible converting to hollow tech II will be ideal as I already have an MTB  using that BB hence the tools required will be handy to have.


texts: Installing downtube shifters with no clamp

texts: I am trying to convert my Schwinn Mountain bike into a road bike. I bought a set of Shimano SL-SY20A 3 (2) x 7 Speed Down-Tube Shifters. they have a clamp attached but my downtube is very wide and the clamp won't fit. how can I mount them to the downtube. I'm thinking of drilling holes on each side and screwing them in, mounting them that way. Does anyone know how I go about doing this? thanksfor your time!


texts: 1976 peugeot 10-speed bike correct tire pressure?

texts: I have a 1976 peugeot 10-speed bike. What is the correct tire pressure? I ride over concrete sidewalks and rough, pitted asphalt roads and paths.


texts: What kind of spokes for Giant PSL0 wheelset

texts: What specific spokes do I need for Giant PSL0s wheelset. I know they are DT Swiss but what kind and maybe where to get them.


texts: Alternatives to trailers for transporting young children

texts: A representative in Oregon has recently introduced a bill that would prohibit children under the age of six from riding in bicycle trailers. While it is far too early to tell whether this bill will pass, and what the final law would look like if it did, I am curious what alternatives to bike trailers people can recommend. I don't have kids myself, but I grew up riding around in a bike trailer, and know people who do have children and use trailers like these. I am particularly interested in suggestions for families with multiple young children, since one reason my family loved bike trailers was because it could easily fit two of us at once. If this law were to pass, what alternatives would be available?


texts: Can I change my large chainring without changing the entire crank?

texts:
The bike I wanna buy has a 42/34/24 crankset and TX-50 FD, now I was wondering if I could install a 48t(or bigger if possible, do tell) ring upfront while keeping the rest (i.e transforming it to 48/34/24..). Is this possible ? What do I need to adjust ?

Thanks


texts: Are there any types of indoor trainers that are suitable for training sprints insofar as they allow the rider to tilt the bike to get leverage as one would when sprinting on the road?


texts: What 5 speed freewheels are compatible with a Sun Rims M13II rear wheel rim?

texts:
I have a 1972 Schwinn Varsity.  I have purchased new wheel rims. Both the front and rear rims are Sun Rims M13II model rims.   I need to know what 5 speed freewheel will attach to the M13II rear rim hub?   Would the original Schwinn (5 speed Shimano MF-Z012, 14-17-20-24-28) freewheel screw onto the M13II hub?  I can't get the original freewheel off the the original wheel rim, but I would (or buy another one) if I know it will screw onto the new wheel rim.

Thanks!   Nick


texts: Link between bottom bracket and rear wheel widths

texts:
I am building a bicycle by gathering some components I already have. It is for a basic bike, only used as spare bike.
I have to change the crankset and bottom bracket, as they are scrap.
The crankset I want to put on it comes from a MTB with 135 mm read wheel OLD. The bike I am building is also an MTB, but with 130 mm OLD.
Should I get a shorter BB (by 5 mm I guess) to make it correspond ?
Whatever the dimension, I will have to purchase a new BB, because the frame is not BSA, but italian thread.


texts: Is there any way to make a kick stand silent during riding on uneven, stone roads and paths? I am actually refering to the "cube kick stand" for the "cube acid, kick stand ready, 2017" mtbike.


texts:
On any given race within the pro peloton, the teams whose sponsors offer both aero and traditional frames (BMC, Trek, Canyon, etc) typically have a mix of riders on each style of frame, but the GC leaders and climbers on those teams are almost exclusively riding a bike with a more traditional frame. Their bike fits look to be just as aggressive and both bike styles can be built to the UCI weight limit, yet you don't typically see Contador on a Venge or Tejay on a Timemachine.

What benefits do more traditional bikes provide that outweigh the watt savings that aero bikes provide (Roughly 28 watts within BMC's line), especially since both aero and traditional bikes can be built to UCI weight limit?


texts: Identifying Bottom Bracket on Merida Scultura 7000e

texts:
I've just purchased a Merida Scultura 7000e frameset (unsure what year model). How do I go about identifying what bottom bracket standard it uses so that I can purchase one.
Inner Diameter of the bottom bracket hole is 37mm.
Depth of bottom bracket hole is about 9.5mm.
Trying to fit Shimano 105 5800 cranks on there (believe that they are cranks with a 24mm axle)


texts: Is it possible to date Shimano components?

texts: I have heard that Shimano releases an updated or redesigned component line about every four years. The old technology then passes down to the less expensive product line. If this is true, theoreticaly a newer Ultegra component would be a better buy and possibly of better quality than an older Dura-Ace. So my thought is, can you reliably date a component that has no serial numbers or manufacture date.


texts: I found an old racing road bike with a 50 cm frame. I would like to build it out and use it, but I am concerned it may be too small for me. I'm 5' 7.5" and I think I should be riding a 54 cm frame, but I'm not sure. Would that 4 cm difference be an issue?


texts: How much on average does it cost per month to go cycle touring in India?

texts: I am planning on going cycle touring and I was wondering if anyone can advise as to how much it will cost per month


texts: Expected Lifetime Mileage: Bottom Bracket and Headset

texts:
I'll declare a personal interest in asking this question, relating to a dispute with a national UK bicycle retailer. I'm not looking for advise on how to resolve the dispute, nor for evidence / opinion to beat anyone with a stick. In fact, ultimately the sums of money involved are negligible, and almost certainly not worth my time pursuing, so please treat the question as "more out of interest"

Bike is a hybrid manufactured by a well known global bike company, 6 months old, less than 1500 miles. Predominantly commuter riding, road and pavement (25-30 mile round trip, two or three days a week). Whilst not a BSO, I do understand the OEM components to be considered "low end" quality. Weather - typical south west UK, and of my actual commuter days I have worked out the roads will have been damp or raining on roughly 20 days over the period since purchasing the bike new. So I would consider the use of the bike to be well within "normal" use and expected conditions.

My questions:

Would you be expecting to replace a low quality sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket after less than 1500 miles riding in the conditions described above, and when making the decision on what to replace with, what would define a "quality" BB, other than relative price and brand?
As above, but this time consider headset / headset bearings.


texts: Chain stuck between cassette and spokes and damaged rear hub - any way to fix it?

texts:
My rear derailleur didn't have limit screws properly adjusted so when I shifted to the biggest chainring the chain jumped in between the cassette and spokes.

I managed to get it out but then noticed that the hub wasn't coasting anymore - when I push the bike the pedals are also spinning (just like fixie).

I removed the cassette to check what's wrong and saw that the hub was damaged and now it's rubbing against that moving part where I mount the cassette (don't know how it's called). Is there a way to remove that moving part and smoothen damaged side of the hub? Or I need the new wheel?

Here's the pic of the damage so it's a bit more clear what I'm talking about:

EDIT: As Argenti Apparatus advised I brought the wheel to the bike shop. They assessed it and fixed it - filed the side of the hub so freehub can spin again and replaced 7 spokes.
My wheel wasn't super expensive (Shimano RX31 I think) but repair price was still much cheaper than buying the new wheel.
Also thanks to everyone for your input and teaching me about the freehub!


texts: What is the minimum repair kit/parts I should bring on a 150 mile bikepacking trip?

texts:
Planning a 150 mile rails-to-trail ride (GAP trail from Pittsburg) with my family of 5. We'd potentially be 10 to 15 miles max from "civilization", probably further from a bike shop. But expect to see other riders on the trail (it's fairly high traffic, with campgrounds every 10 miles or so)

What's the minimum I should bring?

Bike tools (allen wrenches, screw driver, etc.)
Patch kit (tire levers, etc. hand pump)
Spare tubes
Quicklink (for the two chain sizes we'll have)

Planning to have the bikes serviced before leaving.
New chains as needed.

I'm not super handy with anything more complicated.

I have the non bike stuff covered :

Camping gear
First aid kit
Hiking type stuff (rain gear, socks, etc.)


texts: I have decided to buy an older worn down bike and fix it up as my commuter.  What things should I look for?  I know I should check the frame for rust.  But, that's about it.  For example, is it easy to get a good condition cassette for an older bike?  Or, should I try to find a bike that already has one?  Advice like that.


texts: How much does rider weight increase tire pressure?

texts: When a person sits on a bike, the air pressure in the tires must go up because of the additional weight. With 100 PSI in 700x23 tires on a riderless bike, what is the air pressure when a 100 lb rider is sitting on the bike? A 200 lb rider?


texts: Front derailleur cable suddenly very slack (no shifting), not sure what's caused it

texts:
I last rode the bike on Sunday. Throughout the ride I noticed the front shifter (grip friction shift, Shimano) was feeling "looser" than normal (hard to describe, it didn't feel "right" and seemed to be clicking louder than usual).  However  nothing seemed out of order and shifting was functioning fine.

Today, haven't not rode the bike since, I went back out on the road with it in 1 (smallest sprocket, left there from Sunday) and immediately found it will not shift at all. After pedalling wildly at a wonderful 8mph for a while to a safe stopping point I found the cable completely detensioned and hanging beneath the frame. Twisting the shifter to "H" (limit of its travel) tensions the cable enough that it is nearly in the correct usual position for "L" when the bike is working. It's impossible to produce derailleur movement.

What could have caused this and what do I do now? Not experienced at bike repairs; last time I tried a front derailleur repair, it went horribly wrong, but I want to know what the fault is and whether it's easily doable.

To the best of my knowledge, the bike has been touched by nobody between Sunday and today. The derailleur seems to be working fine (manually pulling it).

The suspicious shifter behaviour on Sunday makes me think the shifter may be at fault, but I do not understand how the cable has suddenly completely slackened. I don't want to touch anything lest I make it all worse - part of me wants to just retension it with the pinch bolt, but I suspect this may not solve the problem.

Possibly related: I'm aware the H-stop on the front derailleur is improperly adjusted, and I've had the chain fly off the outer sprocket on shifting a few times lately. I really need to get around to adjusting that, but suspect it's unrelated to the sudden cable tensioning problem.

ilmiont


texts: Can anyone tell me the specific year and model of this Benotto bike?

texts:
I’m inexperienced and just wanted to work on refurbishing this as a side project but thought that knowing what I was working on was a good place to start.

Only other identifying factors are a partially obscured serial number starting in T and ending in 219.

Otherwise I believe this is 90s or later but I’m unsure of anything else.


texts: At what slope will the best bikes keep a constant speed?

texts:
At what slope will the best bikers (in terms of aerodynamics) on the best bikes roll at a constant speed at 80 km/h on an asphalt surface on a dry day? The reason for this question is because it gives me very accurate information about the force needed to keep the best bikes going at that high a speed. It is also interesting to know the slope at 50 km/h if that is available.

Maybe I could get the answers from watching parts of Tour de France, where they measure speed and slope?


texts: Can someone tell me what year this Elgin Sears Roebuck bike is and what model?


texts: Simplest and best way to keep water bottles clean and hygienic?

texts:
Obviously a daily wash with washing up liquid and water is a good start... But with all the use a water bottle gets and the mouthpiece being exposed to the elements whilst cycling through who knows what - are there any other steps you take to ensure your water bottles are clean and hygienic?

And a bonus question - do you use the same bottle forever, or do you replace them after a certain period?


texts: Helmets with dedicated mounting system for lights, cameras etc.?

texts:
I have came to the conclusion that headlights work much better for me for cycling than handlebar-mounted lights. This is because:

A headlamp illuminates where one is looking, not where the bike is turning towards.
The angle under which the light falls on the trail is much improved. When handlebar-mounted light illuminates the trail, the holes and irregularities look bottomless, making it difficult to select a safe line.

Suppose I am considering buying a full-face helmet. Are there models, that are explicitly designed to have a light attached to them. I imagine some kind of rails on the side or in front or on the top.
Bonus question 1: recommended way to mount a conventional headlamp (one which people put on their heads) to a conventional helmet (skateboard-type or full-face)?
Bonus question 2: any lights, that are supposed to be mounted on the helmet, but their power supply to reside in the backpack?


texts: Reattaching fork to mountain bike - What is the correct assembly order?

texts:
I'm trying to reassemble my mountain bike fork making sure to put the bottom crown race and assorted pieces back together, but I can't quite figure it out:

Here are all the parts I have:

(click the images for full size)

Am I missing something? For some reason, these don't feel like they fit together correctly no matter which way I try it.


texts:
I had the chance to buy myself a bargain the other week. It was a Muddy Fox Courier Comp mountain bike – I had one when they first came out. The thing is I need to get a rear axle long enough to fit my wheel. I have just been to Halfords and bought a 10 x 145 mm and it's too short.

I've tried looking all over the internet for the last couple of hours with no joy. So if anybody has any ideas of which type and size of axle I need, it would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Can I swap out an Ultegra 6750 crankset with a 6700?

texts:
I want to have the ability to change chainsets depending on terrain. I currently have the compact Ultegra 6750 chainset and am after a 6700 53/39 for the flats and races etc. Are the axels the same diameter and width? I have an S-works 2011 tarmac. Not sure what the BB is, I think it's a press fit BB30 but I could be wrong.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


texts: How to mount bike rack on Lemond Versailles (carbon fiber, no rack mounts)?

texts:
I considered clamping an attachment point, but it's not recommended for carbon fiber and the clamp is too small to attach to the metal point at the end (bottom in the photo).
Seat post is carbon fiber.  I could switch to aluminum post and use a canilevered rack, but that should be limited to less than 5 kilograms (10 pounds)  (That's an okay but not ideal solution)
Any ideas?


texts: Any suggestions for how to carry a B.o.B. Yak (or Ibex) on a roof rack? I drive a small station wagon and the trailer is a bit big to fit comfortably in the car with our other gear when we travel with the bikes.


texts: Clips/extenders for road bike brake levers?

texts: While on the hoods, I'd like to have a bit more surface area, or leverage,  for engaging the brakes. I saw somewhere that there are clips or extenders that attach to the standard lever, providing a small protrusion perpendicular to the lever allowing for better engagement or leverage when riding on the hoods. I can't seem to locate/find these clips/extenders.


texts: I'm looking for a recommendation for a good bike polish for carbon clear coat frames.  Something the fills in minor hair line surface scratches and leaves a nice shine.


texts: MTB Bottom Bracket vs. Normal Bottom Bracket

texts: I am planing a Surly Trucker Disc Travel-Bike build and now I am stuck on the bottom bracket bearing. The bearing shell is 73mm wide. Is it possible to install a Sram DUB Innenlager BSA 68/73mm? I am not sure since Sram DUB is declared everywhere as MTB, can I use it and what is the difference between a MTB and a 'normal' bottom bracket bearing?


texts: What's the difference between All-Mountain, Cross Country, Freeride, Downhill bikes?

texts: I'm somewhat new to the world of mountain bikes and I'm seeing various terms to describe different bikes. What is the difference between all-mountain, cross country, freeride, and downhill? Are they just marketing words or do they represent actual differences in the bikes (or maybe a bit of both)? Are there any other types of mountain bikes I missed?


texts:
I had a little accident and went over the handlebars.

I'm okay, I was able to ride the bike home, but it is obviously bent. Everything else on the bike seems to be fine, the wheels are true and rides is straight still.

Where can I take this to get it fixed?


texts: What's your most useful cycle accessory?

texts:
What is the most useful accessory you got for your bike? By useful, I mean something that improved the enjoyment or functionality of using your bike.

Note - I know this is a subjective question, but I ask it to generate a reference list of most useful accessories, as opposed to identify 'the best'.

One accessory per answer, plus a little explanation of why it would be useful. I've put my top two in by way of example.

Edit: This page is meant to list accessories you've found useful, not to record basic cycling concepts (as per this thread in meta). If you would like to write an entry about a basic cycling tool, component, or concept, please use the terminology index for that.


texts: Good pedal and shoe combination for summer touring

texts:
First off given that I will be sightseeing as well is it worth the extra weight to take a dedicated cycle shoe and a walking shoe or is the extra hassle of having something else that can go wrong not worth it?

I'm wondering what are some good combinations of pedal and shoe for touring. Should I go for a dedicated touring pedal like the A520/A530? I don't know anything about shoes so some recommendation would be good there as well. I will be touring japan in the summer so it will be warm but still possibly quite wet.

Finally, how hard is a pedal/shoe combo to set up correctly for comfort? Is it something that's worth getting done in a shop? I have a good LBS and they will most likely do a basic set up for free.


texts: How to clean sealant stuck in pump head?

texts: I have a old trusty pump that over the years has the presta head filled with tubeles goo. Noways it pumps the tires very slow. Is there any chemical way to remove it without melting the plastic?


texts: Is this a good road bike frameset to consider building for a 5'6" rider?

texts:
Can this frame be used to build a decent road bike for someone 1.73m (5.6 feet)? It has 58cm ST, 58cm TT.

7005 aluminum Easton Ultralite aero tubing. 1" aluminum threadless fork.

I'm coming from MBX and never even rode a road bike :)

What are the things i should look for? nothing too indepth, just the major mistakes i can make when starting with a frameset.

For one thing, is a 15yr old aluminium aero even a good choice these days?


texts: How accurate is the 'calories burned' figure on my GPS device?

texts:
I use the Garmin Edge 200 to record the route, distance and speed of my rides. It also gives me a prediction of the amount of calories I have burned on any particular ride.

The only data I have given it is my weight. It must use the speed and elevation GPS data to calculate a prediction but id like to know how accurate that can be if it doesn't take things like wind strength & direction, quality of surface and tyre type into consideration.

As an example, I went for a 50km ride today and it informed me I burnt 1200  calories. Is this in the correct order of magnitude?


texts: Does "Carbon & Aluminium" really mean cheap plastic coated aluminium?

texts:
I'm looking to replace the suspension fork on my MTB (which has blown a seal) with a rigid fork now that I'm exclusively commuting in the city. During my research I came across the
MOSSO 26" MTB Carbon & Aluminium Rigid Straight Fork on eBay, one of the cheapest "carbon" forks in this category at only 80 bucks.

What's the catch? Which parts are are aluminium vs carbon? How do they compare with pure carbon or pure aluminium? Is this just a gimmick to make aluminium forks look cool by coating them in purely cosmetic textured plastic?


texts: Hydraulic brake lever doesn't return after being released, dependent on weather

texts:
I have a pair of second-hand Shimano ST-RS685 hydraulic brake levers / shifters. Unbeknownst to me they hadn't been used for a year and had quite a bit of dirt / grit inside, which I've cleaned to a degree (as much as I can without taking them apart).
When pulling the brake lever all the way back to the bar, it often does not return back and stays in that position. There is a cylinder thing that is pushed by the lever when you press it which moves along a channel with a slight kink in it (which ultimately pushes the fluid out of the reservoir to the pads).
When I release the lever, depending how far I've pushed it, this cylinder will either get stuck at the far end or move back very slowly and not all the way as it should. It often gets stuck at the kink. The lever also gets stuck as I think it's the cylinder thing going back that pushes the lever back. If I've not pulled it all the way, then often moving the lever back manually will allow the cylinder thing to go back to its resting position. However, if it's at the far end then moving the lever back often has no effect.
The first image shows the lever pulled back all the way with the cylinder thing at the far end of the channel (circled in red). I've also added a yellow arrow pointing to the bit that comes from the lever that pushes the cylinder thing.

The second image shows how it should normally look when in a resting position.

I haven't bled that brake yet, but I have on the other brake and that one does it as well, but nowhere nearly as bad, although it does mean that sometimes the pads slightly bind. Bleeding didn't seem to have any effect on it.
I've tried cleaning the levers as they did seem to have some grit / dirt in them and also followed this guide:

             (How To Service Your Shifters - GCN) which works for about a day or two. Then the levers seem to seize up again.
Edit: I'm still having problems. Not as serious as before since I've cleaned up the levers as much as I can, but the cylinder thing in both levers will not return fully (leaving a gap of about 15%-30% between the resting position in the channel and the cylinder), dependent on weather (I think).
Yesterday, it was about 25C here and I'd left the front of the bike towards the front of my garage where it gets quite warm. Both levers were stuck at with about a 30% gap, as described above, and while I could manually push the cylinder back, this didn't stop it getting stuck again the next time I pulled it. The bike was unridable as both wheels' brakes were being applied a fair amount. Later on in the evening, when it had cooled down considerably, they were working fine, leaving virtually no gap on releasing the levers.
Today, it was hotter, but I'd put my bike in a cooler spot. The result was that they both were getting stuck with about a 15% gap. Bike would have just been ridable but with a lot more resistance than normal. Later on when it cooled down, again this problem had largely resolved itself.
Has anyone encountered this?
Further edit
I cleaned them again with compressed air and put PTFE lube in the levers (Triflow) and then greased the moving parts. Thought they were behaving better, but they're doing it again today (24C and sunny). Again getting stuck at about 30% in the channel.


texts: Solutions for pedals screwed in the wrong sides?

texts:
I have a Focale44 fixie with a single speed on the other side of the gear (this is called a flip-flop I think?) and I LOVE it so far! I've ridden it for about six months and haven't had to fix anything big on it yet.

The only problem is that I must have screwed the pedals in the wrong sides and now I can't get them back out. But, in trying to fix this, I'm really hoping not to have to buy a whole new crankset.

Any recommendations on this one? Here is the crankset...Focale 44 Crankset

Can I still ride it? I can't really afford to replace anything for a few weeks and I might die if I don't get to ride during that time! Can I just replace the arms? If not, what cranks can you recommend? I really can't drop any more than about $100 on this.


texts: Should unconventional colors be avoided for lighting?

texts:
Red/amber lights in the rear of the vehicle, white lights, in front of it: that is the good old convention and certainly switching their places is a bad idea.

A quick search, however, shows other colors available to purchase. Concerning "to be seen" bicycle lights, should they be avoided?

More specifically, I would like to have one blue light in the front of my bicycle (just because I find it more pleasing), but am I asking for trouble if I replace my white light for the blue light? Would it be a better option to use both?


texts: Can a 10 speed rear derailleur be modified for 9 speed and then modified again to a 10 speed deraileur?

texts: I have Shimano RD-5700 105 Rear Derailleur (10-Speed, GS Medium Cage, Black).   I bought it to use on my 9 speed bike, but now what to add new shifters (3x10).  My bike shop wants to replace the cassette and chain, which I have done.   But Rear Derailleur, he wants me to replace as well.  I disagree, but I need to show him in writing.   Please post the web link or manual.   (I am an America in Spain trying to demonstrate to my Spanish bike store).


texts:
An acquaintance is selling a Cannondale Rize Lefty bike for under $900. I’m considering buying it for my hubby. Both of us are clueless about bicycles.  This bike is from 2009 or 2010. Our son thinks that the bike looks cringey and extremely outdated. I know my husband would love it just because it is red, lol. He is in his 50’s. He’s in good shape but probably wouldn’t be doing hard riding, just around town and some mountain trails.
Because our budget is very tight, my husband told me that he wants to spend no more than $100 for a used bike. Our kids are willing to pitch in money to get something better as a gift.
The reviews on the Rize Lefty are amazing. Would it be difficult or expensive to maintain? I think my husband would probably prefer a more upright set of handlebars but I’m guessing those would be easy to switch out. The bike has only been ridden a few times and is the right size for him. He is 6’ and frame is large.
The bike has a lot of upgrades and apparently cost $5000 new. It has Shimano XTR components including hydraulic brakes and and upgraded seat. The stock tires were Maxxis so it looks like those are an upgrade as well? I have more detailed photos of the components. The bike looks new to me.


texts: What is the plastic inside this barrel adjuster, and is it okay to be worn?

texts:
I'm replacing the brake cables (inner / outer) on my ~2 year old bike, and noticed that there is a piece of hard plastic tubing (2–3mm diameter) inside the metal part of the barrel adjuster that feeds it between the handle and the outer tube.

Does this part have a specific name? I've tried searching for barrel adjuster "inner plastic" and haven't found much online.
How necessary is it for functioning brakes / avoiding cable wear?
I can't find any similar plastic tubing locally, nor spare parts online.
Would it be alright to just keep it in the barrel adjuster, even though it is quite worn and split at one end?
...Or could you even just do without it completely?
Thanks!
Edit: As per comments and solution — it appears to be the same teflon sleeve that can be found inside the brake cable housing.


texts:
My rear hub keeps coming loose which causes the rear wheel to wobble.

I'm pretty sure that I know how to tighten the cones properly and I've also had the bike serviced in my local shop. Every time the wheel will be fine for about 100km and then it will start to wobble again.

What could have happened to cause this, and how can I fix it? Could replacing the axle, cone nuts and bearings help?


texts: "Right" way to store energy from 2 dynamo hubs

texts:
I just bought a recumbent trike, and plan to do a fair amount of long-distance traveling on it, to the point that a dynamo hub seems like a really good idea.

I was going to put a dynamo hub on one wheel in the front, but I think it would be annoying to have one wheel dragging more than the other, so I'm considering putting a dynamo hub on both front wheels (speed is not a concern to me, but comfort and controllability definitely are).

Ideally, I'd like both dynamos to supply the same storage and electricity delivery system, but with A/C current, directly hooking them up to the same source seems like it would be a bad idea.

Can I just slap some bridge rectifiers on the output cables and hook them into the same input on the storage device?  Do I need to get more clever?  Is this risky at all?


texts:
We are planning a trip with a bike rack attached to our trailer hitch. What is the best way to lock the bikes while the vehicle is unattended? I see some racks have locks on the knobs but they don't seem very strong.

What do you suggest?


texts: What is the best way to improve my cycling distance over mountainous terrain?

texts:
So for years I've been doing long distance biking from my home on my mountain bike, and recently I've been trying to push north into the Hudson Valley. However, even though I'm pretty decent at handling very long, non-stop bike rides, the mountainous terrain has made things extremely difficult for me to keep going past the first two bike path (especially since I have to already clear a good 10 mi. to get there).

Does anyone have any tips for improving the distance I can cover on my bike when it comes to mountainous terrain?


texts: What are typical max speeds for pro downhill races?

texts: Looking videos like Red Bull Rampage or Mega Avalanche make me wonder about the speeds attained by those pro bikers. How fast they go in straight line sections?


texts: Do cartridge BB's have both ends removeable?

texts:
Apologies if this is a dumb question!:

I am teaching myself some bike maintenance skills and was removing my crank and BB.  However, the ParkTools videos I've been following show BOTH ends of the BB cartridge having a cup to remove.

When I tried the same on mine, I could remove the non-chainring side, and then remove the entire cartridge through the chainring side.  I don't know if the cup should be removable, or do some have them built in.

This is all the info I can find on the cartridge and I couldn't find any writing on the cartridge itself:
Bottom Bracket - VP square taper, 73mm shell, english thread


texts: How much can I expect to improve in 1 year?

texts: I am 51 yo, started cycling 2 months ago. I do about 80 km per week (in weekends). Currently my average speed over large distances (max distance I've done so far is 90 km) is around 22 km/h. On flat surface, 600 m distance I currently reach on average 33 km/h, but after about 300 m I lose speed. Two months ago I was doing about 30 km/h. My peak speed is about 41 km/h, for very short distances. Do I have any chance to reach an average speed of 40 km/h over 600 m within one year?


texts: What is the markup on bikes sold in stores?

texts: What is the general markup on bikes sold in stores, specifically bikes sold in bike shops, i don't care about the markup in stores like wal-mart or target.


texts:
I can't easily change my crankset or hub, so I'm looking at pedal power meters. All of them (PowerTap, Garmin Vector, bePRO, Xpedo Thrust-E) use Look/Keo/SPD-SL cleats. For me, walkable riding shoes are a must.

Are there adapters from Look/SPD-SL to SPD cleats? Is there another solution to this problem?

ETA: I said I can't easily change by crankset or hub. Please don't reply telling me to do that. The reason being, I have a Pinion gearbox which doesn't take custom cranks, and I have a 158mm rear axle which hub-based power meters don't fit.


texts:
I've noticed cheaper pedals (also the <5$ ones) spin forever if you give them a tap with your finger. My own pedals seem to have a little resistance in the bearing. You can turn them with no effort but they stop immediately.

I visited a bike shop and started flicking pedals on various mountain bikes (to the annoyance of the shop owner who must have thought I was fooling around) so I conclude this to be an actual thing for more expensive pedals. It also read on some case "The right amount of friction added to bearing".

So the question is WHY??

And if this really should be a good thing, how many watts can you lose with a pedal like that?


texts: Magura rim brake does not work well on a new rim

texts:
I have a bike with 20inch wheels and Magura HS11 rim brakes. On the rear wheel I have just replaced the rim, because the old one had split after many thousand kilometres. The new rim is an Alex  DM24 406X24. The old one was another wide aluminium rim.
The Maguras were braking fine with the old rim. In contrast now with the new rim the brakes do not work well: After some initial moderate stopping power the brakes do not grip harder when I pull the lever harder.
To explain it a bit more in detail: When I press the lever slightly (say, of a “feels-like’ amount of 10%) the brake reacts as expect by braking of “10%”. But when I press hard, say 50% or 100% (=as hard as I can), the breaking power does not increase at all, it stays at around 10%.
I am pretty sure it is not an issue with the brake system (oil, etc), because when pulling the lever I feel that the pressure against the rim increases. (Furthermore, not oil is leaking out and the brake behaviour is consistent over days.)
I guess it must have to do with the brake pads an the rim surface. The rim looks to me like it has normal alloy sides, so I kept using the old black brake pads.
So, what might cause this strange behaviour? Should I replace the pads with pads of another type? Or is there another fix?


texts: Can I convert my velocity 9-speed rear road hub to bolt-on?

texts: I have an older velocity wheelset with their standard 9-speed road hubs. Can I convert these hubs (particularly the rear hub) to bolt on?


texts:
I'm putting together a bicycle on a budget from a frame I was given and various parts from a bike with a broken frame. The only part of any expense that I really need is the fork, and I want to get this via an auction (likely Yahoo auction Japan).

The frame itself is a women's Scott Tacana. Something like this:

I'm not necessarily looking for shocks, I really just want something cheap that fits. Are there different diameters, tube lengths etc, that I need to be aware of?


texts: Can I attach a trailer to a Bixi bicycle?

texts: Do the bikes used by the Bixi bike sharing system, in cities like London, Boston and New York, accept trailers like Trail-a-bikes and Tag-a-longs?


texts:
Yesterday, a little boy hit my carbon framed road bike with his little bike while I was already standing. He was not very fast, the normal 'little-boy-dreaming-on-his-bike'-speed. So, nobody got hurt, but his mum wanted me to check the frame, she was very sorry and apologized hundreds of times.
After a first look, I can not see any visible cracks or something.

Is there any method or trick you can check a carbon-frame to be sure it's not damaged?
Can there even be some cracks you do not see?
(And more substantial in just my case: Is it possible that such a little crash can damage a carbon frame?).


texts:
The Ms got a new road bike not long ago with an Oval Concepts 527 wheelset. She has a persistent clicking noise coming from the front wheel after only a thousand or 1500 miles, and I can't quite diagnose it. Any ideas would be appreciated. It's definitely the front wheel (Oval already replaced the rear wheel for two snapped spokes in 400 miles): it clicks rhythmically and at a rate proportional to the speed, and is unrelated to the drivetrain. The wheel does spin freely, so the noise doesn't seem to be related to anything causing a drag.

Here's what I've tried so far:

checked wheel in truing stand: it's not out of true and has no appreciable bumps on rim or tire (stock Vittorio road tires 700x25C)
checked magnet to sensor distance on cyclocomputer: it's about 5mm
tightened magnet
swapped sensor out entirely
"plucked" the spokes to compare tension: they're all pretty close
took off the plastic reflector
put bike in stand and checked for tire contacting forks or brakes: plenty of clearance

Some additional information: it takes good ears to hear the click when the wheel is off the ground and spinning freely, but when there's a rider it's audible from several feet away. If I stare at the hub while spinning the wheel v-e-e-r-y slowly, it looks as though it clicks every time one of the Oval logos comes around the top of the hub.

I'm thinking perhaps too little grease in the hub, or maybe an out-of-round bearing, but wonder if it's something that won't necessitate a trip to the LBS for warranty service. Your thoughts welcome and thanks.


texts: Information regarding UN300 and UN100 (new Shimano Bottom Brackets)

texts:
I was about to order a new square tapered BB for some folding bike.
Normally I would opt for Shimano UN55, since they tend to last a long time. However I noticed that some new variants were offered: UN300 and UN100.
Since I could not find any detailed info on Shimano's page (nor got a response from the webshop), I ask here.

Does anyone have press-releases regarding these UN300 and UN100 parts?
Are UN300 as durable as UN55?
Do the Chain-case and E-bike variants indicate a lateral offset? (how much?)

UPDATE
After a bit of digging I bring my preliminary conclusion (partly based upon comments), although nothing is confirmed:

UN55 and UN26 are no longer available so probably UN100 and UN300 will be the replacements
UN300 have a "stabilizer", which is probably just the small plastic spacer on the axle, that will line up flush with the crankset (on the images it looks like UN100 have this too)
UN100 is so far only available with 122.5 mm axle, so they probably only target the most-used axle length (and for low-end bikes you might not care much about the chainline)
The 3x variants (Normal/K/E) seem to differ in the how the right (drive-side) of the shell looks at the outermost part (see the image). Normal version have more axle exposed, and the E-bike variant have a few mm without threading (to allow for a sensor?). Furthermore the chain-case seems to provide a spacer (see the exploded view)
UN300 have aluminium shells on both sides, UN100 have resin shells
In terms of price: UN100 6,2 €, UN26 ~8 €, UN300 10,5 €, UN55 15 € (bike-discount.de 2020-06-09)

My guess it that UN300 is a minor upgrade from UN26, by having alu shells and some convenient improvement with spacers (to me it seems unrealistic that new product in this category is 30% cheaper and more durable). I kind of doubt Shimano will introduce a new "high end" square BB on par with UN55.
I think I will buy one of each, and perhaps bring an initial impressions update.

Update after receiving UN300s and UN100
In general it looks like a production evolution of the previous designs like UN55 and UN26.
TL;DR: UN300 looks to be a well-made unit with good seals, but maybe not as tough as UN55. UN100 looks identical, except for plastic shells.
Let's get the weight out of the way:

UN300 270g for a 113mm axle
UN100 285g for a 123mm axle... so kind of identical.

The shells look like they are fitted/glued on. On the old UN55 the main unit with drive-side looked as if it was machined from a single piece of steel.
The new UN300/100 is 1x steel axle, 2x shells (alu/plastic), 2x cartridge bearings and one middle piece (steel), although the drive-side shell is not immediately removeable.
The bearing on both models are 6903RS (ID17mm, OD30mm). I bought 2x UN300 and 1x UN100, on one UN300 I felt some subtle irregularities/bumps when turning by hand, but I guess that goes away after a bit of use.
The UN300 has the same white powder coating like UN55, and I guess this is similar to blue loctite you find on many bolts. The UN100 does not have this, but for plastic you do not have to care about corrosion anyway.
The finish of UN300 looks great, and has laser etched name + tighten direction.
The shells have seals that attach to the axle and it looks like an effective way of keeping water and dirt out.


texts: Looking for help identifying/fixing a bike

texts:
We become lucky enough to get one of my dads favorite bikes after he passed away. But it needs some TLC. Can anyone help me identify this bike so we can get a new chain for it?
We think it’s the chain. It keeps popping off.


texts: How to increase tension of rear derailleur cable

texts:
I have a Trek Shift 3 (I bought/got new/unused in May 2016) with a Shimano ST-EF65 Shifting Lever (Index) and I am unable to shift gears in the rear derailleur.  I think the reason I can't shift gears is because there is not enough tension in the cable.  Between the rear derailleur cable housing and the internally routed cable housing, there is > 5 mm of play in the cable, even when the index is set to the lowest/easiest gear (1)

I've followed several tutorials on how to adjust rear derailleurs and increase the tension of the rear derailleur cable, which include setting the high and low limit screws and adjusting the Barrel Adjuster, with no success.

I think the cable is too long, because after following the directions in the tutorials, there is still play in the cable.

How can I increase the tensions of my rear derailleur cable AND/OR fix my rear derailleur shifting without replacing the cable and/or housing?


texts: replace shimano st-ef-41-l with shimano alivio left shift

texts:
My shifter st-ef41 is broken the only available shifter is the Shimano alivio or the Shimano acera. please advise Asap
thanks


texts:
Why do we need air in bike tires?
Having changed hundreds of annoying flats, carried a change kit for thousands of miles, and pumped up tires before pretty much every ride, I got to wondering: why do we need to fill tires with air anyway?
Why can't we just have a thin strip of solid rubber meet the ground?
I've been told that air-filled tires give a smoother ride, but I think that the same ride can be achieved with springs and shocks between the rider, frame, and wheels.
Is this a conspiracy of bike and wheel manufacturers, to maintain a steady demand for tubes and tires?


texts: Total brake failure - trying to understand what happened

texts:
As I've mentioned elsewhere I recently had quite a bad crash - broken collarbone, shoulderblade, and a rib.  The circumstances are rather unusual: both brakes failed totally.

Crash details for those that want to know (TL;DR: I'd been using both heavily, let them off, they didn't come back on):

   I was descending a mountain pass, as I often do, taking it rather slowly as the light was fading and the road was damp with some loose material.  My habit when picking my way down that sort of road is to use the back brake lightly and continuously to control speed, and use the front brake for significant slowing before bends.  Coming out of a bend I released both brakes as the next 100--200 m was straight and not too steep.  When I was fast enough, I squeezed the brakes but carried on accelerating.  I spent a few seconds trying to slow down, braking hard while rolling over the strip of grass up the middle of the road in the hopes of losing some speed, but knew I couldn't make the next bend, let alone the next few km of unbroken descent, so I headed for the grass off to one side to lose speed/hit something softer.  I did manage to drop from around 35 km/h to more like 25 km/h but hit a rock with my front wheel and another with my body (and the aerobars with my helmet, hard enough to bend the aluminium armrest).  Just before I crashed the brake started squealing, and the ceramic pads are normally silent.  The ride on Strava shows that only 20km earlier I'd had enough of a descent to put the brakes through their paces; at the top of the big descent I tightened the barrel adjusters and fixed pads a little as there was more slack than I would have liked -- and I tested them.  A few days post crash the brakes stop the bike while it's being pushed, but the front wheel isn't rideable to test.

My bike has done about 16000 km and I recently had it serviced, including new brake pads. They're ceramic (I usually use metal), and normally have plenty of stopping power though I've had to tweak them a few times in the 1000 km since they were fitted -- new cables settling in?  The brakes are Promax Render-R cable discs (BB5-style pads) and are normally good, barring one case of contamination.

I haven't taken the back wheel off but the front came off to get it home and I took the chance to inspect the pads:

(L) moving pad, (R) fixed pad.

The wear on the moving pad is strange.  The pale patches are shiny metal backing and the actual pad is worn into a wedge shape.  Update: I've measured the pad diameter, it comes in about 0.1 mm bigger than an old set of metal pads I had lying around, and the rotors are perfectly flat.

Further update: There are possible signs of melted material at the back, in the rotor air holes and the edges of the pad, and the pads turn out to be 70% ceramic (and 30% organic I assume).  The front rotor has a groove worn into it to match the pads shown above, and has worn more in the month/~1000 km since these pads were fitted than in the previous 6 months since it was new.  The rear rotor has also taken a lot of wear recently.

I'm as sure as I can be that I wasn't skidding the back - I was steering normally, not fishtailing.  I didn't notice a different feeling in the levers, but I had bigger problems on my mind.

What could have happened? Could they really jam in the off position, perhaps due to heat? With one specific set of pads? I'm happy to replace the brake mechanisms when I can ride again, but want to understand the cause.


texts: What are UCI categories for cyclocross events?

texts: Having more than 10 years of MTB experience, I want to try my first CX race. However when I google for CX events in my country, the results contain some scary codenames called UCI C1 and UCI C2. In MTB enduro races you know that you have pros and amateurs riding the same course, just separated by the start times, so there is no worry to lag behind. In cyclocross it's a different story, I'm afraid to make a joke out of myself or even worse, ruin someone's run if I'm choosing a wrong event. So basically, how do I know if I can try one of those events? Do those events require some kind of bureaucracy (UCI license) to enter?


texts:
The chain likes to jump from the front sprocket, it is my impression that it makes no difference if the chain lies on the inner or outer cogs. Since I am unsure about the root cause I ask here for some pointers to troubleshoot the issue.

Bike:

The bike in question is an old 20" kid bike from a garage sale, history is unknown except that it is at least 7 years old. Former maintenance was neglected. It has an 1x6 transmission. The entire transmission is rather old and not the fanciest one. I do not have much experience adjusting the derailleur but in the end I was able to change smoothly to every gear (adjustment was done with the bike upside-down). The chain is well lubricated and has no stiff links. The entire transmission (front/rear sprockets, pulleys) moves smoothly.

Observations:

Observing my son riding the bike on the lawn I see the chain jumping a bit too much for my liking (amplitude about 10cm), I am not sure if that is fine.
When I tried to reproduce the issue I was able to "block" the chain between one of the rear sprockets and the jockey (upper pulley), I presume the issue was missing clearance between them. AFAIK there is no option to adjust that distance nor the spring tension.

Update

Closer inspection revealed that the large rear cog is definitely worn: The rear cassette will be replaced.

Update #2

I replaced both cogs, chain and derailleur (including cables). The chain behaves a bit better but still jumps from time to time from the front cog. The chain had a stiff link where I joined it, but that got resolved. The new front cog has no wobble. The rear derailleur is properly adjusted (smooth shifting to every position).

Frankly, I have no idea on how to proceed (Will post pictures of the new setup).
Perhaps I should mount a chain guard?

Additional thought: My son is just learning to shift. Perhaps I am overthinking that issue. Could it be that misuse (perhaps he is playing with the shift lever while standing) provoke most of the chain jumps? If so, would a chain guard limit the impact?


texts: Does valve stem diameter matter for my rims?

texts:
Got an old bike that I restored some time ago, and the original tubes literately burst on me today (I knew I should have replaced them long ago, they are probably 10 years old) and now I have some questions on replacing them.

Looking at the available tubes, I see most of them have presta valves. The originals and my current replacements are  Schrader. I don't have much preference on valve, I just want to know if I should limit my selection.

The real question is, I really never paid any attention to the holes drilled in the rims. Do they have different diameters for each type? Would a larger Schrader hole damage a presta valve tube? Or are the rims pretty much universal?

If this is useful, the rims i'm buying new tubes for are: an old MTB Araya RM-20 and an unmarked original from a cheap fuji-4.0 700 bike


texts: Would a Linus Roadster work on an off-road country environment?

texts: Would a bicycle like a Linus Roadster Classic handle well on an off-road country environment or would you recommend a mountain bike for this?


texts:
I have been using the dishwasher for my bottles more regularly since I started using powdered drink mixes, which leave a lot of residue in my bottles that's harder to clean out by hand than when I was only using electrolytes or just water.

Will putting bicycle bottles in dishwasher damage them?  I've been noticing a distinct plastic taste on my bottles as of late.


texts:
I was designing a cart for personal use. I live in an area with elevations on the road, and I fear braking might be an issue for the cart I have behind my bike.
Can anyone suggest a good mechanism they might have experienced or seen for brakes on a cart attached on the back of a bicycle.

Also, How is there a Hitch which is flexible enough for absorbing the force during braking.


texts: I need to change the chainset on my carrera vengance 27.5 frame and wheels

texts: What chainset would you recommend for my bike I'm new to cycling and pretty well I'm a virgin tbh,,,it's 24 speed carrera vengeance the one I have now well it looks like it's warped when peddling,It also slips whenever I put real pressure on it I smashed my knee last time on it...it also makes the chain hit the gear selector for the big cogs.thanks...


texts:
Just replaced a bad inner tube with a new, Presta valve tube. Unfortunately, I seem to be unable to get any air in the tube; I hear air leaving the pump and not going anywhere.

I tried investigating the usual suspects:

The pump is not sealed on tightly enough: Doubtful; several times I was able to lock the pump head so far down on the valve that it took considerable effort to remove it again.
The nut on the valve was closed: Nope. Opened and closed the valve several times, pushed down on the valve enough to hear a minuscule hiss of air. The valve is open.
Wrong pump type: Nope. Managed to inflate my other Presta valve tire just fine.

The only thing I can think of is that the complete lack of air pressure in the tube means there is nothing closing the valve, so the pump has nothing to depress and the sealing nut sits on the air opening. However, that sounds wrong to me.

Any ideas?


texts: Do older Dawes cycles use standard components?

texts:
I'd like to built a commuter/utility/messaround type bike. I like hub gears, and I want a steel frame.

I've been looking at older Dawes bikes. Specifically a 'Streetwise' or Galaxy.

I know some have 135 OLN already (though I'll have to check before I buy). Are all other components standard? Meaning headset dia and threading, bottom bracket, brake mounts, mudguard and rack mounts etc.

I've already been caught out with the non standard-ness of older Raleigh and Peugeot bikes,

Many thanks.


texts:
I recently bought a second hand city bike.
After a 2 weeks I got a flat tire. On closer inspection it looks like this is due to the spoke. The rim tape is fine though. It seems that this particular spoke was changed by the previous owner and its end is more prominent than the others. Can this be the reason? Can I safely cut the excess?

This is the spoke I think caused the puncture (although the rim tap seems fine.

This is the look of the other spokes.


texts:
Coming back to riding after a long layoff, my Cannondale R500, purchased around 2000, according to the local bike shop, needs a lot of work - new wheels, cassette, chain, cables. Also replaced stem with a new taller one so I don't have to bend down as low.

LBS is saying the tune-up/restoration will be around 400 and offered a new entry level Giant for around 650 and won't charge me for the work they've already done on the old bike.

Not sure what to do. The Cannondale rides fine to me, but to be honest, I haven't put that much mileage on it recently so haven't really tested it. I'm a casual rider, planning to do long rides 3-4 times a month and a century or two this year.

My options are:

1 - Pay for whatever work they did and fix the bike up myself. Don't have a lot of tools and wondering if I did do my own work, I'd wind up wasting a lot of time and paying for tools I don't have.

2 - Have bike shop restore Cannondale, hope it holds up.

3 - Buy new bike.

I don't need a great bike, not picky, don't need the latest and greatest - just want something that will be maintenance free-ish for the next 10-15 years. I can afford a new bike, but I rather use the money for other things. And it just seems like a waste to abandon the Cannondale.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


texts:
My current bike tyres are 26 x 2.0 (Manufacturer fitted tyres)

Is it possible to fit 26 x 2.1 or 26 x 1.95 on these wheels or is this going to cause an issue?


texts: How to remove existing fluid before bleeding disk brake

texts:
I've found lots of tutorials on how to bleed the disk brakes. And in all of them there is  nothing about removing existing fluid.
I'm quite afraid that when I start to bleed brakes the existing fluid will be mixed with a new one.
Is there any special procedure to remove the existing fluid and clean the cable?


texts: What are these markings on a Shimano FC-M770 crank?

texts: On the very tip of the Shimano FC-M770 crank arms there are some markings. They are to be found on both crank arms on both of my sets, so they are definitely no random scratches. I suspect these are leftovers from the hollow forging process, but I am not entirely sure. Furthermore, why has Shimano decided to not machine the tip of the arm in order to remove these markings? I mean It's an XT crank, cheaping out shouldn't be the main reason here.


texts: Compatibility between 4700 Tiagra 10 speed shifters and GRX RX400 10 speed derailleur

texts:
I want to build myself a drop handle bar touring setup bike.
GRX RX400 seems like a good budget option. Bikeradar mentioned this groupset to be on same level as Tiagra. Gearing range on this groupset is as per my need. 11-36 in back and 46-30 in front.
Reason why I want to use Tiagra shifters and not GRX shifters (ST-RX400) is because GRX shifters are for hydraulic disc brakes only>. I have never installed
or operated hydraulic disc brakes on STI shifters and I'm not sure how complicated the process of resizing the hose will be, so want to stick with ST-4700 rim brake compatible STI shifters.


texts: How much does number of gears matter for a front derailleur?

texts:
I need a low clamp 2x10 front derailleur. As it turns out to be a challenge to find locally, I begin to wonder

How important is the rear gear specification? What is I get 2x9?
How important is the front gear specification? What if I get 3x10?

I am looking to understand the reasons for those constraints, not just an "1)yes 2)yes" answes


texts:
I need to replace my bike saddle, a Most Ocelot that came with the bike, because the supporting rib (not the rails) broke about four inches from the nose, and it is starting to sag.  I'm only 145 lbs.  I am interested in a snub nose saddle, but in current circumstances, I can't visit a bike store, and I am interested in riders' experience with this style.  I mostly ride in the drops on 2 - 4 hour rides.  I'm not a racer.

Anybody have experience with these?

TIA


texts: Helmet headband is getting wet from sweat

texts:
I cycle to work on a daily basis, however I do like to also sweat a lot. Most of this is ok, I have a change of clothes and can managed, but when it comes to my helmet, it's a different story.

There is a headband around the helmet, which likes to soak up my forehead sweat, the problem is, this headband doesn't like to dry out and I can see it getting mouldy soon. I can't seem to removed the band, so I was wondering:

Are there helmets where this band is removable?
Are there alternatives, like wearing a headband underneath to soak up the sweat instead?

I've seen this post, but it's more talking about keep the sweat out of the eyes, rather than the helmet headband. Though the site does sell things called, skull caps, will that be suitable for soaking the sweat and then I can wash it? I need to find something that will fit under my helmet and prevent the headband from soaking up more sweat.


texts:
I've been trying to fit a second rear wheel to a fracing frame rebuild and I've noticed it is very off-centre. You can see from the pictures that it is much closer to the non-drive side than drive side.
Is this more likely to be a problem with the dishing, or with the axle/hub or something else.
Picture of seatstays

Picture of chainstay

Picture of driveside dropout.

Picture of non-driveside dropout.

Thank you.
I checked the wheel was set in the dropouts correctly. It now seems to be centred when you look between the seatstays (just under the brake) but is almost rubbing against the non-drive-side chain stay.
I checked the frame alignment, measuring the string just by the seatstay.  The gap between the string was about 94mm, and the the non-drive string was a coupel of mm closer than the drive side. So it does seem slightly out of alignment, but would this be enough to explain the wheel almost touching the chainstay?
Thank you.


texts:
I have a Hybrid bike that has 26 x 1.95 tyres fitted, they are knobbly's and I want to change them for road tyres, I have seen a make that I like but it is a 26 x 1.5 Will i be able to fit them to my bike.
Thank You


texts: restoring the finish of an oxidized polished aluminum frame?

texts: In the context of restoring the finish of an oxidized once-polished aluminum finish, is there anything better (easier) than 0000 steel wool with Marvel Mystery Oil? I am restoring an old Cannondale aluminum frame. Over the years, the environment has taken its toll. After renewing the driveline, I would now like to improve its appearance.


texts:
I have an 11 speed Athena chainset, and I've stripped one of the chainring bolts.

It's £40 for a replacement Campag set! Can I just buy Race Face at £4.70 and expect them to fit?


texts: The Jockey and idler of my derailer, are not spinning as freely as I would like. What type of lubricant should I put on these derailer pulleys to make them spin more freely?


texts: The rear brake freezes up on my bicycle.  Never the front which I don't understand.  It is not that cold out either @20 degrees.  This is the first bike I have owned that has disc brakes.  My cantilever brakes never did this.


texts: Shimano bolts; oversized hex driver holes? Planning for failure?

texts:
This is frustrating me. I recently bought Shimano Dura Ace ST-R9120 hydraulic levers/BR-R9170 calipers combination. Got to the stage of bleeding the brakes and removing the bleed caps from the tops of the levers. The caps, as tensioned from the factory, will not undo with a new hex key fully inserted in them. Instead the key takes some tension and then spins around in the hole without moving the caps. To remove the caps I had to get a large set of vice grip pliers and start the caps turning. Of course in soft aluminium that means the outside of the caps are now marked. A pair of these is now on the shopping list:

You might imaging this is using a ball-end key or the wrong size key. No, this is using a new metric set, fresh and unrounded. Nor is it undersized, same as every other key or socket I can find.

Same situation with various other Shimano bolts. Though larger bolts will not let the wrench spin in the socket and fail to move they will grab the wrench when tightened to torque as if the bolt head is deforming and requires some backward movement to release the wrench. Not using too much torque - in fact using a torque wrench to specification.

What is up with their bolts? Am I supposed to buy Shimano 2.55mm hex keys or something here? Are they just using hex driver sizes inappropriate to the bolts? Maybe hex is just bad at transmitting torque and we should be using square (Robertson) drivers.


texts: Explaining the effects of frame geometries

texts:
I asked about buying a bike here, and someone asked on my behalf about test-riding a bike before buying.

My question is, what should I know, or should have known, about the sizing or 'geometry' of a bike?

In reply to my question about buying, people talked about the wheel size etc.; but not about the frame size, or the fork angle.

In the question about test-riding, people talked about aspects of the 'fit' which I think can be adjusted (i.e. the height and front/back position of the seat, and the height of the handle-bar) ... and which are documented elsewhere ... and which are therefore maybe superficial and less important for the purposes of this question.

But, what about the geometry which can't be adjusted: the distance between the wheels, for example?

On a bike which I've just bought, I've noticed for example (since buying it) that the front wheel is rather closer to my foot than I am used to; I expect that's just one example (of a geometry/metric which as a novice it hadn't occured to me to think about).

This Wikipedia article "Frame geometry" introduces the vocabulary but without much detail. Googling reveals mostly short articles too, more ad-bait than detailed/informative.

Given that I'm asking for details, a kind of 'science' question, this question is probably too long to answer here. What I might be asking for then is a link to a suitable introduction/reference (online, or a book...).
Alternatively you might (I don't know) be able to give a short/summary answer along of, "The most important measurements to look at are A, B, and C, which have the following effects... Taken together these few most important measurements account for 90% of the effects of geometry on fit/performance/handling/comfort."

Or, is this a topic that people don't learn about by reading, and which can only come from extensive experience of riding multiple bikes? How did you come by your understanding of geometry? Can you look at two bikes of a similar type and say, "Oh, those have different shapes/measurements" and understand what that (difference in measurements) means or implies?

PS.: interested in 'ordinary' frames: not frames with a suspension (so, not frames for off-road/all-terrain/jumping); not recumbent; not track/racing; not exotic/expensive materials.


texts: Tire popping out of rim when inflating tube

texts:
This is very similar to this question.

When I fill my tubes up to about 85 psi the tire pops off the rim and the tub gets caught on the rim and blows up.  I have gone through 4 tubes in two days at this point and the only thing that seems to help is to inflate them to about 60 psi.  Even putting pressure on the tires so they seat correctly (not sure if that is the correct term, I am quite new to cycling) only works until I put weight on the bike, and then the tubes blow.

For some info, I frankensteined a bike together out of used/old parts so my rims are quite old (although relatively true after ~8 hours of work) but the tires are falling apart.  The rims are 27's (inches?) and there were really no options for newer ones at the place I put my bike together at, only 700's.

Could replacing the tires fix this?  I would like to get the tubes to around 90 psi since at 60 they are quite flat when riding.

Edit:  Some details on the tire, tube and rim.

Rim:  ~1 Inch wide at the top, ~25 1/2 inches in diameter
I couldn't really figure out how to check the bead.
Rim tape looks fine, it is some hardish plastic covering the spoke screws.

Tire:  See these images of the tire.
Supposedly a 27 x 1 1/8 tire that holds 90psi.  Not sure what else is helpful info other than the pictures of the deteriorating side walls (and the lip at the bottom that catches the bead)

Tube:  700x18-23 27x1 48 mm presta valve.  I can't find max pressure, but I am sure it is in excess of 90 psi.


texts: Advice for getting Campagnolo Zonda wheelset on a 2000 8 speed shimano rsx

texts:
So I have an old road bike and instead of coughing up cash for new one I've decided to just start upgrading parts now and slowly build a better custom bike, one piece at a time.

My bike currently has shimano rsx group set minus the shifters which were replaced with Shimano sora flight deck triple shifters. Old stuff I know!

Triple ring in front and 8 in back.

So I wanted to get this wheel set: http://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-wheelset/

But it says compatible with 10 and 11 speeds.

How can I get this working on my bike?

without having to get a newer crankset (10 or 11 speed) or group set. I want to get a new group set but rather get wheels first to make riding more fun and fast.

Any advice is mush appreciated! Relatively new to upgrading.


texts: Why are bicycles priced the way they are?

texts:
This question may not fit the criteria here.
Feel free to close or edit it.

I spent six hundred dollars Canadian funds on a Norco Yorkville Hybrid.
The rationale being that for that price I would get better than an entry level bike. It's a retirement gift to myself. I deserve better than an ordinary bike after forty plus years work.

Now it has become evident that while it is a good bike it is rather ordinary. I look around and see riders spending one,two and almost three grand for what they want. Is this just a case of buyers remorse?
I like the Yorkville. It is nice looking but I wanted something special.A bike that performs better than average.
Why are bikes priced the way they are?


texts: I have a carbon Fibre front fork "BSC profile design" and when I tighten up all the screws on it snugly there is no movement (forward backward) but I go out for a ride and by the end there is a small amount of slop in it (like when pressing the front brake the fork slides back a few mil before hitting the back of the headtube) is this normal? Or is there something I need to do to reduce the slop?


texts: Flat mount brake caliper and rotor tolerances

texts:
So I was finishing my build today putting all pieces together on my Diverge 52 carbon frame when something come to my attention: the flat mount SRAM Red hydraulic brake calipers can barely clear the wheel spokes (about 1-2mm maximum) using 140mm Centerline X rotors on my CLX 32 wheelset (centerlock). Decided not to risk a disaster I put those 160mm old Ashima 6-bolt rotors mounted on a Shimano RTAD-05 adapter, so the brakes now clear the spokes (about 4-5mm) and the rear one clears the chainstay by about 2-3mm.

Here's my question: since I have no other disc brake bike to compare, is it normal to have such tiny clearances on a gravel bike? My original project would be using a 140mm rotor, will it rub the spokes when pedaling out of the saddle or climbing?