texts: I have a frozen fork on a 2011 Diamondback Response MTB. It worked fine when I purchased it back then and was riding it regularly. It has sat in storage for the past 5 years and is now frozen. Can I still use it or should I purchase a new fork?


texts: How can I prevent bicycle theft while bikepacking?

texts:
I’m planning a multi-day gravel ride with a few friends. We would have to sleep in public campgrounds, which are also full of people because of the camping season. What is the best way to secure our bikes at night? As you might imagine, having your bike stolen 150 km (100 miles) away from home in the middle of nowhere might be a harrowing experience.
We’re afraid that locks won’t work because the thieves would literally have all night to remove them. There also might not be something to lock to (what do you do if you’re sleeping in an open field?). Furthermore, a group of expensive-looking bikes laden with camping gear would probably be an attractive target for thieves. Any tips?


texts: Install suspension forks on non-suspension bike

texts: I have a 1990s Saracen PowerTrax. Is there a way I can install a suspension fork, or will that muck up the bike somehow? I'm actually interested in ways to raise the bars with respect to the seat, so that wouldn't be a problem. My toes rubbing in the wheel, in the other hand, would definitely be a problem.


texts: Looking for a 29x2.25 tire for my first sprint tri-athlon

texts: I have entered a sprint triathlon on a whim and have a 29er mountain bike. Is there a road suitable tire for a 29x2.25 wheel out there? Looking for something that will give me good roll and as little resistance for my 110kg as possible.


texts:
I found a frame I'm interested in building up, but it doesn't include a fork.  So I've been looking for carbon 700cc forks... with disc tabs.  I've found a few, but ran into a new dilemma - curved vs straight?

The frames I'm looking at are cyclocross/touring.  I wouldn't think 29ers are into rigid front ends.

Any reason to choose one over the other - brake chatter, bump suppression?


texts: Does it make sense to fine-tune saddle forward-backward position without also adjusting the height?

texts:
Context
To reduce bum pain after switching from cycling shorts to winter clothing (base layer + cycling waterproof trousers, with no gel pads), from an otherwise just-about-right saddle position, I moved the saddle forward (on two occasions, by 2 mm each time). I chose forward because my sit bones were losing contact much of the time with the saddle. Now one ligament (the left) in one leg (the left) hurts after riding (pain level 2-3 out of 10). I'm trying to figure out a compromise.
Question
In the figure below, the point of contact of the dashed circle and the dashed line segment is the point where the sit bones touch the saddle.

Assume you have already figured a "just-about-right" adjustment of the saddle height and the saddle forward-backward position. Assume also you did not tilt the saddle. It remained parallel to the ground.
From that initial adjustment you can assume (?) that the distance of your pelvis from the cranks (large dashed circle) is about right.
Now, every time you decide to fine tune this (already about-right) adjustment by moving the saddle forward, you also need to adjust the height of the saddle, since otherwise you'd be changing the distance to the cranks, when you have already decided that that distance is already good.
Is this true?
Conclusion
If saddle height and fore-aft are not independent adjustments, the conclusion would be that the basic adjustment sequence (saddle height; saddle fore-aft; reach) is flawed. The sequence would be either:

Repeat until there is no pain:

Adjust height.
Adjust fore-aft.

Adjust reach.

Or, since fore-aft itself affects reach:

Repeat until there is no pain:

Adjust height.
Adjust fore-aft.
Adjust reach.


texts: My son is new to comuting by bicycle. He brought a brand new bike and after just one week was having problems with the brakes. He only rides approximately 6–8 miles a day. Halfords advised that his brakes need replacing. Is this right?


texts: I cannot go 30 miles without a flat. I can't figure out what the problem is

texts:
I have Mavix CXP-12 wheels (20mm). I have relatively new Freedom ThickSlick 23mm Tires on the wheels. I've been using these inner tubes: Meetlocks® 700x18-23c. I weigh 165 lb.

I just keep getting flats, both rear and front. More often the rear. Sometimes I get flats twice on a single 20 mile ride.

I was inflating to 110 PSI, and I assumed these were pinch flats, so I tried going up to 125 PSI and that just made things worse. Then I tried running at 90 PSI and that didn't help either. I thought the spokes seemed a bit loose and maybe they were poking the tube on bumps, so I tightened all the spokes a turn and that didn't help. I replaced the rim tape and that didn't help.

The tires are not compromised at all. The rims have no burrs or anything like that and the rim tape looks perfectly intact. These are definitely some sort of pinch flat. The punctures are usually on the side or inside of the inner tube.

I was having this same problem on another brand of inner tubes (I forget the brand name). So I doubt that's the issue.

I have no idea what's going on. Is there an incompatibility between these 23mm tires on my 20mm rim that leads to flats? Do I need to have the wheels rebuilt? They look perfectly true to me.

Any pointers appreciated. My only guess at the moment is I need to get 20mm tires. But I'm worried that'll just be a waste of money.


texts: Replacement seatpost clamp for Saturae seatpost

texts:
I have destroyed the clamp that connects the seatpost with the saddle on my Mekk.

The seatpost is Saturae.

Can someone tell me what type of clamp i need and where I can get it? Its a one bolt seat post and a standard rail saddle.

Thanks.


texts: Alternative replacement cable for classic sturmy archer 3 speed shifter?

texts:
I have classic sturmy archer 3 speed trigger with a snapped cable.
Unfortunaly, these aparently need special cables (endings) http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/classic-trigger

Do I need to replace the cable exactly with such one again (It's really expensive by now for a simple cable) or is there a fitting alternative or trick to avoid spending 50$ for a simple unprotected steel cable?
Does anyone have any experience with that?


texts: How do you know when you need to add more air in the tires?

texts: How much air is too little and you should add more for the safety and ease of your bike ride?


texts: How to fix numb hands on new gravel bike despite professional fitting and shorter stem?

texts: I just bought a new Salsa gravel bike with carbon frame. Despite a professional fitting and shorter stem my hands get numb after only a mile. I wear padded gloves when riding. I have ridden a Trek road bike for over 15 years and never have had this issue. Any ideas on how to fix this problem? I'm ready to return the bike.


texts: What features should I look for when buying bib tights?

texts:
I want to buy a new set of bib tights for cold weather biking, but there are many choices and variations and huge variations in price. What qualities should I look for - e.g. fabric, padded insert, straps, back material, water resistance.

Some have a section of material on the back but would these models only be for more extreme cold weather riding?

I consider cold to be 5 degrees celcius to -5. Extreme cold -5 and lower. Majority of my cold weather riding is not extreme.


texts:
My chain and cogs always look very dirty as the oil attracts dirt. It is a constant problem as you can't fully avoid stains on your trousers and hands. Also, that looks ugly and I believe it wears the chain and the cassette out as the particles stuck on chain act as abrasive.

I used to think that was unavoidable, but then I noticed that on some bikes the chain and cogs are shiny clean. Is that because their owners clean the chain daily (because honestly one day is enough for a chain to turn black after full cleaning) or because they use different lubrication solutions?

I heard about teflon-based lubricants, are they really much better in that sense than traditional oil-based ones? Also, these bikes with shiny chains were always single-speed bikes - does that mean geared system experience more traction and should be traditionally oiled?


texts: In practical terms, how often do you have to adjust the belt tension of a belt drive bicycle?

texts:
Gates claims their belts do not stretch over their life, so theoretically speaking you should not have to adjust the tension (which appears finicky).

I'm interested in anyone with real world experience. Do you ever have to adjust the tension of the belt, apart from when you have to move the back wheel for another reason, such as to change a tyre?

Gates, who make the belts have a FAQ. I can't get a direct link, but if you go to http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/support.php under the question "What are the benefits to the Carbon Drive systems?" this is part of their answer.

  No Stretch – The Carbon Drive belt does not stretch over time like a chain. This means you don’t have to re-tension the belt, or replace the belt due to stretch. This also means no excessive wear on pulleys due to stretch.

Does this claim hold up in practice?


texts: The width of Profile Design Tri Stryke saddle (with cutout)?

texts:
I am interested in Profile Design Tri Stryke Saddle (with cutout), however there is no specs on the website, nor the manufacter answers my e-mail. So maybe somebody has this saddle and would be so nice and tell me what is the width of this saddle?

Thank you in advance.


texts: How to service a 1995 Schwinn Phantom Coaster Brake hub?

texts:
I have a 1995 Schwinn Phantom beach cruiser with a coaster brake that I'd like to service. The coaster brake is staring to feel sloppy and hasn't been looked at in a long time.

What tools will I need?
What are the steps to service it?


texts:
I’m a total amateur when it comes to biking... I recently purchased a new Bergamont Summerville N7 and took it out today for the first time longer than an hour (I’ve had it a week and been to the shops twice with no issues)

However today about 40 mins in the back wheel became incredibly stiff. When I looked I noticed the wheel had shifted position and the tyre was rubbing against the kickstand.

After further investigation it was obvious that the left ‘bolt’ attaching the wheel to the frame was loosening no matter how tightly I fixed it. One of the ‘washers’ is different to the other (which is the one causing an issue)

The one causing an issue also seems to be shearing into the frame itself... I have pics but for some reason this won’t let me upload the images.

Any help would be greatly appreciated before I email the store I purchased from.

Thanks in advance


texts: Repair frame with crack by seatpost clamp

texts: Is it feasible to repair a crack in a frame around the seatpost clamp? Being an aluminium frame I understand soldering is problematic. It doesn't matter if seatpost is fixed in place as per a solution involving epoxy/some kind of wrap etc.


texts:
While I was riding I went to stand and it felt like the chain busted or came off! I jumped off and turned the pedals by hand and they turned fine but any pressure at all and it slips... any ideas ?
I haven’t been on a bike for years, I managed to fix the disk brake caliper  today (never even knew the were a thing until today) and I lost a brake pad so was fairly easy fix.
It’s a Schwinn dual extension.


texts: What should be the ideal saddle height of my bike if I'm 5'10" foot and using a 29" flat bar bike?


texts: Replacement for Suntour Superbe Tech Rear Derailleur

texts:
I recently picked up an 85 Cannondale ST500 with a Suntour Superbe Tech rear derailleur. The cage is bent and the bearings in the guides don't feel too fresh. I'm just starting to get into bike maintenance - what's my best option for replacing this? I've noticed I can get something like a Suntour Cyclone for around $30 on ebay - would that work?

Thanks!


texts:
Simple question for a new cyclist. I want to change my wheelset to these (http://www.rolwheels.com/wheels/wheel/volant-r-t).

Will they be compliant with my current bike? (https://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2015/valence-a3/).

Thanks,

edit: Also, what parameters and specs can I use to determine this on my own?


texts: Differences between bikes 10 years ago and now?

texts:
I'm not too knowledgeable on high-end racing bikes, but I'm looking at getting a used Specialized Roubaix, and I was wondering whether enough significant advances have been made since 2007 to consider getting a newer lower-end model vs a 2007 S-works Roubaix.

Have there been any advancements that render bikes from that long ago obsolete at the high end?


texts:
Do front fairings have an advantage for upright bicycles?

There are fairings for recumbent bicycles such as this Zipper one:

I wanted to know if anybody has experienced increase in speed/reduction in air drag with a fairing [with an upright hybrid].

I saw the body of F40 bike(http://www.lightningbikes.com/f40/) and I was wondering if such an aero design exists for upright bikes and if doesn't, exist would making such a aero design for upright bike worthwhile?


texts: Identify year of manufacturing of Merida frame by Serial number

texts:
I'm trying to buy a used Merida Scultura Road frame, but the current owner does not know the year of manufacturing. It is possible to extract this information from serial number?

Serial:

WC 93055 B

BI - 1582 BR


texts: Best places to put protective clear stickers

texts:
I want to protect the new paint of my bicycle, so I'm thinking of putting some transparent stickers to the most prone to scratch areas of the frame.
But what are the most prone to scratch areas?


texts: Test drive of bike derailed chain easily ... bad sign or nothing?

texts:
I tested a bike at a bike shop today. I rode it about 30 feet / 10 meters, turned left up a very shallow hill, hit the left (forward) dérailleur and the chain came off (went past innermost front sprocket).

I walked it back to the store. They put the chain back on. I did exactly the same thing again, 30 feet, left turn, up hill, switch gears, chain comes off.

I put the chain on myself this time and then walked it back. The bike shop adjusted it a little and warned me not to go completely diagonal on the chain (left most front, right most back or vice-versa). I didn't try it a third time.

I'm not a cyclist by any means but I've owned bikes in the past as a mostly casual rider and never had one derail the chain that easily.

Is it most likely just a matter of adjusting something, or is that bike (or its dérailleur) probably a lemon (bad)? How would I tell?


texts:
I've recently purchased a 1986 Schwinn Passage. Everything works great, but I'd like to upgrade to STI shifters and the Cassette. I've found a great deal on a groupset, Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed. My current cassette has worn down from the previous owner and one of the teeth on the smallest gear is worn down. I've been looking at Sheldon Brown's articles and I'm unable to figure out what I have.

I'd like to know the best way to go about upgrading my current bike, or if it would be better to purchase a new one instead.


texts: Ice tires for winter commuting on non-icy roads?

texts:
Can a tire like the Schwalbe Marathon Winter be used for winter-long commuting (40 km/day) on roads which are mostly or usually not icy?

I might want the studs occasionally (and lower the air pressure to get them), but not on most days.

This is Toronto where it's subzero at night, with snow etc., for about 4 months (it's snowing today for the first time), but they plough and salt the roads.

I wouldn't want to have to swap the tires daily or weekly depending on the weather: only once a season.


texts: I have slipped off my bike 3x in the last 2 months - will changing tyres help?

texts:
Recently picked up a used Boardman Hybrid Team and it's my first bike after several years on boris bikes in London.
I was doing great in the summer but recently have slipped/skidded 3 times in last 6 weeks or so and fallen - cutting my knees, once my palm as well. The first was defs my fault (cornering too fast), but the other two I was behaving what I thought to be sensibly and the falls came out of nowhere - though it was wet both times and manhole covers were involved and after searching I'm learning they could be the culprit.
If I want to avoid falling so much I realise I need to change my riding style (keeping an eye out for those manholes to start with, and being more careful with the disc brakes in the wet as they lock up fast).
But beyond changing how I ride, could the tyres the bike has (Schwalbe Stelvio 28mm) also be a contributor? They're pumped up pretty full so I could let some air out, or I could just buy some new (fatter? grippier?) tyres. Would that help with the skidding and falling everywhere? If it would - I'd appreciate any recommendations for tyres to buy as well :) Thank you.


texts: Is it possible to repair a dent on an aluminium frame?

texts:
I have Centurion Cyclo Cross 4000 bike. Recently I got into an accident with a car door. As a result I have a significant dent on my frame(see the photos below).

I have two questions:

Is it possible to repair the frame?
Is it safe to ride the bike after this?


texts: Replacement bottom bracket compatible with BB-UN100

texts:
My bike has recently developed creaking noises from the bottom bracket area so I decided to take everything apart, give it a good clean, apply some lube and reassemble.

What turned out to live inside the bottom bracket shell was BB-UN100 with plastic cups which I promptly ruined on reassembly. So I am looking for something more sturdy and preferably not made of plasticine.

The spec for my bike shows that it normally comes with BB-UN26, mine for whatever reason did not, but from the picture it seems that at least one cup it comes with is made of plastic.

My BB-UN100 has the following etched on it:

BC 1.37x24
LL123 BC 68

I gather that 68 refers to the shell width, which is 68mm indeed, 123 to the axle length which a quick glance at a vernier caliper confirmed to be 123mm, and the thread type is English. No idea what LL signifies. I came across some manual that said it is a code for 113mm spindle length, so I'm a bit confused.

BB-UN55 looks like what I want and is available in 68 122.5mm size. Will it fit? The fact that they bother to specify the axle length to a tenth of a millimetre (the only length like that) makes me nervous.

Otherwise what other options do I have?


texts: Is it harmful to shift RD while climbing standing?

texts:
I'm just learning to climb standing, and I find I'm often guessing wrong about which gear to use; plus there are times where I'm accelerating up the hill and just need to shift up. Upshifts under power usually cause a loud clunk, so I sometimes "rotate easy" through the shift, but I'm not always that patient or adept.

My question is:

Are full-power rear upshifts while climbing standing BAD for components, or is that a typical expected usage?

I'm still on my "learners" bike, an older MTB triple, and for now I'm still a heavy rider - 230 lbs. I'm actually not too worried about hurting this current bike, but would really like to avoid ingraining bad habits that I'll regret on an eventual new road bike.

I assume I'm putting a more stress on chain and derailleur - the shifts sure clunk pretty loudly.  So far, no actual shifting problems.  Is it just a matter of keeping an eye on chain stretch, or is this a practice I should minimize?  (It's sure fun to accelerate up a hill though!)

Postscript (6/25/2011): Hmm, look what happened to my rear wheel today.  I'm not saying this is due to standing upshifts, or even just climbing standing in general.  And it is a 20-year old MTB I bought used 2 years ago, so history is unknown.  But hmm.  I think I'll spin more and stand less :-)


texts: What type of bike does this text refer to?

texts:
While looking up things for answering another question, I found that USA has a separate import duty category for "Bicycles having a front wheel exceeding 55 cm but not exceeding 63.5 cm in diameter and a rear wheel exceeding 63.5 cm in diameter, weighing less than 16.3 kg complete without accessories and not designed for use with tires having a cross-sectional diameter exceeding 4.13 cm, valued $200 or more each". Does this refer to an existing type of bicycle, and what is it?

As far as I know, the largest common rim size is exactly 63.5 cm, but I have no idea if tire is in included in the number.


texts: Recently bought a used bike, the guy who sold it said it was an 80s/90s Schwinn steel frame. Checked it with a magnet so I'm pretty sure it's steel but I'm not sure about the model, brand, or the year. No identifiers but it seems to have a unique fork and chain guides.


texts: What is this -- seems to be bike-related?

texts:
I'd love to know what it is that is pictured below:

It is worth driving 320 km to pick it up. (Makes no sense.)

I am trying to win a bet that I can find out what it is.


texts: SRAM PG-1130 cassette manual? Meaning of numbers on spacers that go between sprockets?

texts:
Took apart the individual sprockets on my SRAM PG-1130 cassette and the spacers (the ones between the cogs) were so dirty I didn't even see the numbers on them but each spacer has an 11 on it (makes sense, 11 speed) as well as another number on it. You'd assume the other number would be a number 1-6 (there are 6 spacers) but they are 2,3,3,5,6,8.

Not trying to overthinking it but I missed some letters on the rear derailleur pulleys when I cleaned them a couple months ago that indicate which way they should face and it caused a lot of noise/shifting problems. I finally came across a YouTube video of a guy breaking it down, SRAM has no user manual for the Apex 1 derailleur.

SRAM's online user manuals seems ridiculously bad, I never got any with my bike (bought it from a shop who assembled the bike, so that's on them) but feel like you should be able to look up the part number and get the user manual for it but all I could find is this which is super high level and doesn't even cover this specific cassette. Pretty ridiculous.

Also does anyone know if I should grease the spacers when I assemble the cassette? or just on the hub?


texts: Major Problem: 135mm rear spacing road touring frame with shimano 5800 11 speed cassette?

texts:
I have a brand new traitor wander touring frame, it has 135mm rear spacing like a mountain bike (this is a road touring frame).  I bought 29er mountain bike disc wheels that were advertised as 11 speed.  After I tried building it up I realized that my brand new shimano 5800 11 speed cassette will not fit - the freehub is too narrow to accept the 11 speed road cassette.  The problem is I have these wheels and this new full 105 drivetrain.  what will be the cheapest way to make this work?  What shimano disc hub will fit a shimano ROAD 11 speed AND be 135mm wide AND be 32 hole?  Am i screwed?  I could just buy a new wheelset if there is one that will work (if it is cheap enough).

Is there a way to replace the freehub body on these m475 hubs? Where would I get a longer freehub body and would that work with the wtb sx23 wheels lacing pattern?

My last option would be to take my old shimano 5700 10 speed group off my carbon bicycle and use it on the the touring bike set up.  I then question whether or not I could use my new 5800 front derailleur with my old crank set and vice versa...


texts: What does double and triple gear shifters mean?

texts:
I am looking at these components and am wondering what does double and triple gear shifting mean?

Shimano R221 Double Gear Shifters 8 Speed
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38724

Shimano R221 Triple Gear Shifters 8 Speed
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38725


texts: Replacing 1x SRAM chainset with a Shimano chainset

texts:
I've just got a Genesis Datum 2019 bike on clearance.
The spec wasn't exactly what I would want—for a start it has SRAM rather than the Shimano we have on other bikes in our household—but more importantly it has 172.5mm cranks whereas I have reduced hip mobility and 165mm cranks are much better for me.
I therefore need to swap out the chainset, but wonder if it's possible to switch over to a Shimano chainset at the same time?
Since this is 1x, there is no front derailleur compatibility to worry about, just the chain and the bottom bracket. I assume the chain will be fine, since Shimano and SRAM 11-speed cassettes are inter-changeable.
So then it's just a question of the bottom bracket, which I suspect won't be compatible.
I'm quite used to doing maintenance on bikes, but so far I've been lucky to only work on BSA threaded bottom brackets, with either square taper or Hollowtech II cranks, so don't know anything about the press-fit type (86mm shell width, I understand) on the Datum.
The same frame has been sold with Shimano's BB-RS500-PB bottom bracket, so presumably if I get this and a 165mm Shimano 1x chainset I will be good to go?
Or will a 1x Shimano chainset work with the BB used by the SRAM chainset?
And are there other compatibility issues I need to worry about?


texts: Should I apply pressure on the saddle during downhill on a rigid frame

texts:
It is known that, while climbing, one should apply consistent and maximum weight to their saddle, in order to have precious rear tire traction.

The other day I was going down a dirt road, and the road irregularities and scattered stones, bounced the rear wheel maybe  up to 15-20cm in the air. My concerns are two:

loss of rear traction, while the wheel is in air
the saddle hitting me from behind, and throwing me over the handlebhars.

Should I attempt to apply some pressure on the saddle? In what way?

For example, I imagine that I can close my tights, thus clamping the seat and having some control over it.


texts: What's different in women's specific chamois cream?

texts: What's the difference between regular chamois cream and women specific chamois cream?  If my partner also rides, are there disadvantages to both male and female users sharing the women specific type?


texts: Chain length. how long or how many links

texts: I measured from the middle of each sprocket and it's 17 inches. Not sure what length of chain I should get


texts: New bike: disc brakes squeal in wet conditions when NOT braking! Normal?

texts:
I just bought a new bike, and a lot of people seem to have problems with disc brakes squeaking when they brake in wet conditions--however, mine seem to squeak the whole d*mn time.  The bike is fresh from the shop, so has no problem with oil/debris from the road.  Is it normal for them to squeak the whole time I'm riding?  Is there anything I can do about it?

Thanks!!! :3


texts:
I ride a cross bike mostly on the road right now and my rear tire is wearing much faster than my front, which is to be expected. I found the following thread which I think is a similar question but not quite the same, Should I change both tires when I need to change one? which says to just buy one tire and replace the front tire with the new tire and move the old front to the rear. As this article says you want a good tire on the front for traction and safety.

My questions are:
If I am riding knobby tires that have been worn, wouldn't that just make them a little more road like and help with the road riding that I am doing?

Why it a bad idea to rotate tires instead of replacing the worn tire? I would like to stress that they are not "bad" just the knobs have been worn smoother or maybe that makes them bad.

Also, I don't use slicks because I do have short portions of several rides that I do which have short stretches of dirt and/or gravel.


texts: I need a rear sprocket for a 1997 Joshua X1.  Are they available anywhere?  I live in North Carolina.  If not does anyone buy the MTB for parts?


texts: What is the regular maintenance on electric hubmotors?

texts:
I don't own a Blix bike/electric bike though I rode one once... I was wondering where are the technical docs/howtos on the rear motor's maintenance?

I have to rework the back wheel, replace axle or cones or bearings and stuff once a year - or have bike shop/hobby shop do it, maybe because mine is cheaper Fuji bike, or maybe because I often hold a few pounds of stuff in the back rack, go on somewhat rougher bike paths and occasiionally hop off a 3 or 4 inch sidewalk edge.

This got me curious, what is the usual cone/bearing/axle replacement if a back wheel has a hub motor in it?


texts:
I recently bought a used bike that had a rack attached to it. Until last night I didn't notice this strangely shaped part on one of the sides of the rack (circled in purple in the picture). This isn't on the other side and it isn't on the rack on my other bike or the rack on my roommates bike either. I believe that this piece was partially responsible for the issues I had attaching panniers to my rack.
My question is what is this and what purpose does it serve/why is it a part of my rack?

Edit to add photo of top portion of frame pump holder as well.


texts: Advantages of mounting bottle under frame

texts:
I'm wondering if there are any advantages to mounting ones water-bottle on the bottom of the down tube, near the ground, versus on top of the tube.

I'm mainly interested in the advantages, or lack thereof, in the context of a road riding.

It seems like if you are riding a mountain bike or riding off-road, it could protect your frame from stumps, branches, or anything else that you could land on that is taller than the bottom of your down tube.  Also, I could see it helping to keep the center of gravity of the bike as low as possible, for mountain and road.

Are there any other advantages to mounting a bottle on the bottom of the down tube on a road bike?


texts: What sort of bicycle helmet gives me better speed?

texts:
I am working to improve my segment times on Strava riding 10km to/from work.

My average speed is 32 kmph, and over short segments (1km) I can set avg speed 44 kmph / max 49.

Over the last year I have invested in a new bike and bike shoes, and now I leave a week's supply of clothes in advance in my work locker so that I can ride without a backpack - all of these improved my strava times.

Now, I am wondering if my "standard" bike helmet is a source of wind resistance that can be improved.

Is there a sort of bike helmet that is more aerodynamic? For example, a tempo helmet, or a helmet that doesn't have the "cooling" holes?

What features and considerations should I look for when buying a helmet, given I am most interested in riding faster.

Cheers
Viking Steve.


texts: What brand of frame has a star cutout behind the seat?

texts: What bmx bike has a star cut-out just behind the seat? sealed bb.


texts:
I got a commuter rig from a mailorder mike operation and would love to replace the stem with something I've made.

I am getting into some CNC/casting/woodworking was curious if people have fabricated their own parts. I've always wanted to at least mockup my own parts in wood.

But I wonder: has anyone gone the next step to either cast parts in smelted aluminum or CNC'd them out of billet aluminum? Or even kept the part wood and placed the proper metal fittings into it so that it could function like it's metal counter part?

I know it must sound like like I'm taking crazy pills but I can't seem to get this idea out of my head...


texts:
I've had a 2016 Ghost Square Cross 6 bike for about two years and I just realized that I never change the front gears once. To reduce clutter, weight and just make my bike easier to clean, I want to convert to a 1x. So far I think I need the following:

new crank set
new rear derailleur
possibly a chain guide

My front crank is a Shimano Deore XT FC-T8000. Rear derailleur is listed as Shimano XT 10-Speed derailleur and the rear cassette is a Shimano CS-HG500 11-34.

I'm at a loss for what I actually need specifically. A friend told me to look at Wolf Tooth but before I actually pulled the trigger on a purchase I saw "Not compatible with Deore triple (3x) cranksets!" so now I'm just nervous about what to buy. None of my stuff is highend or even midend so I haven't been able to find someone who converted this equipment to a 1x.

Can anyone provide some guidance as to what I am looking for or what I need for a simple 1x conversion? Thank you.


texts:
My wheel feels harder to spin than usual. I just put new tires on, and at first I thought a tire must be rubbing, but that's not the case. Seems like the hub might just be gunked up inside, but I'm just speculating.

From this video, does anyone else think this is higher-than-normal resistance?
https://vimeo.com/57230216


texts: Will driving through heavy rain with bike on my car damage the bike?

texts: I'll be driving for 4 hours with my bike on the rack through heavy rain. Will this damage the bike?


texts: Should I not use a trail because of poor conditions?

texts:
I spoke with someone and they said they were staying off certain trails because snow melt and mud would ruin the trails.  I had never thought of this and really want to be considerate.

Is this a valid concern?  Should I avoid a trail because of this?  How do I know when it is ok to use?


texts: Can I build a wheel with two different spoke types?

texts: Is it possible to build a bicycle wheel using a different spoke type for each side of the wheel? I am having some issues sourcing spokes, but I have found one set of DT Swiss Competition and one set of DT Swiss Revolution spokes in the correct lengths, and I was wondering if it was possible to mix them on the same wheel.


texts: What types of mountain bike handle bar grips are available and how to they affect comfort and handling?

texts:
This question has been floating around in my head for a while, mainly because I don't know anything about grips (edit to resolve confusion:covers for the part of the handlebar you hold on to).

Are there different types of grips available for mountain bikes?

Do different types of grip affect handling or comfort?


texts: How can I bleed my hydraulic disc brakes without buying a kit?

texts:
Is it possible to bleed hydraulic disc brakes without buying a kit?  If so, how would I go about doing it?

I have Shimano BR-M355 brakes, but the question is also applicable to other manufacturers.

What would I need to be able to bleed these brakes, and how does the end result compare?  In the UK a Shimano kit is approx. £30 [Sept 2016] including brake fluid.


texts: Removing lubricant from the rear brake and rim?

texts: I accidentally got lube on my rear brake (v-brake) and my stopping power seems diminished. What is the best way to get it off the brake pads and the rims?


texts: Towing with a Recumbent Trike, Tadpole or Delta?

texts:
I have some experience towing with an upright bike I am considering getting a recumbent trike, as my back side does not last as long as my legs. With an upright bike I automatically move my weight forward, back or center to manage traction. On a trike that would not seem to be an option (have not ridden one yet).

I primarily ride on 'rails to trails', with surfaces running from paved to gravel to grass. Fully loaded my trailer is around 100 pounds (45 KG). My primary concerns are traction during starting, braking and cornering. I am almost exclusively riding up stream, and drifting down with top sustained speeds of around 7 miles per hour (11 KPH). My trailer does not have brakes, adding them is an option.

With a trike in general it would seem the end with two wheels is going to have half as much load per tire, with twice as much surface area, as an upright. Does this balance out the friction/traction or impact when starting, braking and turning?

For towing is a Tadpole or Delta the best option?


texts:
Can I use silicon spray to lubricate my hybrid cycle chain? (Of course,  after de-greasing it using a de-greasing spray)

Thank you for your help


texts: I read around the net that 1 is low and 3 is high, but it's opposite on my bike. Is this correct? I have a Sturmy-Archer src3 ll.


texts:
Why did Shimano name and trademark their variety of direct pull brakes: V-Brakes®?

Is it because of shape? The two arms look kind of like a V? That seems a fail as they are more parallel than most cantilever brakes, which are much more V-ish.

Is it because there were earlier series: I, II, III, IV, and finally V brakes?

Historical references please.


texts:
Hi guys this may have been brought up before but any advice would be great. I've got a 2007 model specialized big hit 2 fsr. The frame seems an odd design to me where the main pivot is behind the bottom bracket but the chainstay has a sharp drop immediately behind the bottom bracket. The frame has mounts for ISCG old chain devices but the design of the chainstay severely limits the type of chain device that can be used effectively.

My question is would damage the structural integrity of the frame etc if I was to remove the chainstay and refit it upside down? I think this may make for more clearance around the ISCG mounts.

Any advice on this would be great


texts: Can I replace my road bike's front wheel quick release with any quick release?

texts: I lost my road bike's quick release. Pictured are what I lost. Do I need to find a specific quick release that fits, or does one size fit all/most?


texts:
I'm wondering what the purpose of the braze-on pictured below is? It's on the non-drive side of my fork. I thought it could have something to do with racks, but then I figured they would put one on both sides.  It could be used for a cable-guide for disc brakes, but my fork doesn't have disc tabs.  It seems like it's situated too low to be a cable guide for V-Brakes.  The bike is a touring bike, and the fork does have rack mounting holes, if that will give any clues to it's use.

Update

It's the factory fork from a 2011 Devinci Caribou. I think I've seen disk versions, but they are older, all their newer ones have cantilevers, no option for disks. It's not threaded, and there is no split.  I may just be a wire-guide for whatever you choose to use it for, like a dynamo or speedometer. However, I think most wired speedometers are hard wired between the sensor and the computer, so I don't know how you would thread the cable through with the hardware on each end.


texts: Why is a TT national champion not allowed to wear his jersey in TTT

texts:
According this source, Wout Van Aert is not allowed to wear his new TT belgian champion jersey in TTT of the tour the france.

I can remember days where this was allowed. Why and when did this change?

Source


texts:
I got a pair old Shimano SH-R133 shoes for my road road, they are size 46.
I'm thinking about a pair of SH-XC30. Can I use the same size?


texts: What are these rubber rings on my brake caliper bolts for?

texts: I have purchased a disc brake adapter which came with a set of mounting bolts for mouting the adapter and the caliper together. The bolts have a rubber ring on them, but I'm not sure what it's for. Should it be mounted together with the caliper and adapter, or is it just for holding the washers and shims in place as part of the packaging?


texts: Can road bumps excite frame eigen frequencies?

texts:
During my last bike holiday I have happened to ride downwhill on roads which had transversal stripes to mark the approaching of a turn.

The stripes were made with road paint, and were slightly higher than the road plane, so that passing on them makes you feel the bump.

At the speed one can reach while on downhill the repeated "ta-ta-pum" is non comfortable, so I was induced to slow down.

However I was wondering: could it happen that, for some particular speed of the bike, the bump frequency resonates with the frame Eigen frequency leading to potential catastrophic frame failure?


texts: Are there reasons not to use always the max level of assistance?

texts:
I'm using an electric bicycle to go to work. My goals are:

Not to arrive late
Not to sweat (too much)

My bike, like most e-bikes I guess, let me choose the level of electric assistance that I wish. I understand that the range is longer with a lower level of electric assistance. But in my case, this is not relevant. My battery can take the whole commute regardless of the level of assistance.

Is there any reason I should not use always the maximum level of assistance? For instance battery or motor damages/heating/...?


texts: How safe is v-brake system with handbrake and coaster brake for child going downhill?

texts:
I have bought a Volare blaster 16” bike for my 5 year old son (due to arrive tomorrow), but am now a bit concerned whether I have chosen the best braking system for him. The blurb for the bike states it ‘has a safe aluminium V-brake system with both a handbrake and coaster brake.’ I don’t really know what that means now! From the photo, it looks like the front wheel has the handbrake, so I presume the back wheel is the coaster brake. He spent a long time on a balance bike with a handbrake and can sail down our steep hill on this no problem. His first pedal bike was a very heavy second hand bike with hand brakes that were too big for his hands, so he lost confidence on the hill and would wheel it down or drag his feet to slow. I was hoping this bike would be the solution but am now paranoid about him flying over the handlebars if he stops too suddenly. Can anyone explain to me how the braking system works on this model? How do you safely regulate your speed downhill on a bike like this?
Thank you very much!


texts: When registering keys, which number is the Kryptonite key#?

texts:
I've just bought a new Kryptonite lock and am about to register the keys at www.kryptonitelock.com, but which number do I enter in the Key# box? Both? The keys each have two numbers, one LXXXX and one SSXXXXX, and they're in a different order on the big key and little keys.

(Also, I was surprised that the "Personal Password (for security purposes)" entry field on their site is in plaintext! Not very secure, especially for a lock/security company...)


texts: I've started biking and see its potential for being able to go around the local area. But when you are running errands (biking to a store or the bank or something) you have to physically put it somewhere while you shop. The one time I ever did this was to pick a pizza. I put it in the place of a car, grabbed the pizza inside, and left. (I put a light lock on it) I don't know if this is proper or even legal. This is a very stupid question, but I can't find the proper phrasing for an answer.


texts:
Chain lubrication is a popular topic. Perhaps for this reason, it is possible to find data for chain friction and chain lubrication. Some of the results of the research are quite interesting. I'm speaking of results such as these:
https://www.ceramicspeed.com/media/3505/velonews-friction-facts-chain-lube-tests-combined.pdf
I have a cargo bike which uses cables for steering. This application is really demanding on the cables, probably more than braking which puts the cables through less motion than steering does. So I really want to lubricate the cables with the best lube. Is there any research like this, with real empirical data, which compares different cable lubricants instead?


texts: Use Brompton BWR 3-speed hub to create a full 700c wheel?

texts:
I have been looking at getting an internal gear hub wheel for my commuter. I currently ride a fixie and I find myself wanting a lower gear at stop lights and a higher gear in straight aways. Basically I want two speeds: fast and something comfortable from a stand still while I get to fast. I would hate to end up adding a derailleur so I'm very interested in internal gears.

I have ridden several bikes with Nexus hubs and I'm generally underwhelmed with the gear ratio. I was researching hubs and found the Brompton Wide Ratio Hub (3-speed) which has a gear ratio of ~246% (according to Wikipedia and JohnSAllen) which is significantly higher than other 3-speed hubs. Normally the BWR on a Brompton bike would be paired with a 2-speed rear derailleur, which makes the ratio go to ~305%. But I don't care about that. I want the hub.

I can find the BWR for sale online, but as far as I can tell nobody has put one on anything other than a Brompton 20-inch wheel.  That seems like such a waste. So I'm wondering whether it would be insane/impossible to build up a full size 700c wheel with the BWR hub for use on my converted road bike commuter.


texts: How often should I refresh the sealant in tubeless tires?

texts: I've got a set of tubeless tires that have been on my mountain bike for over two summers and have had zero flats. How often should I be adding more sealant? How much? Should I be removing old sealant first?


texts:
I am generally using SRAM chains with a powerlink. For a new chain there is no indication of a preferred pulling direction or inside/outside.
If we demount a used chain that has never been taken off before at, say, about halfway life, are there obvious wear marks that show in which direction it was pulled and which side was on the outside?

Does it make sense to maintain the direction and orientation, or perhaps to reverse one or the other?


texts:
I've recently seen this:
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/revolights/revolights-join-the-revolution?ref=spotlight

Basically it's leds on the wheel + a timing mechanism + persistence of vision effect. The video on the web page shows it in action.

It seems to me that this immensely enhances riders visibility (it's really hard not to see what basically looks like a Tron Light Cycle), but I can't really judge how good is the lighting provided in terms of seeing in the dark, or if the design brings serious reliability concerns.

In conclusion, would these lights make safer than a “normal” light, or is just a costly gimmick?


texts: Does using a DH fork reduced to 150mm (6") make sense on an ebike?

texts: I recently found out that you can apparently reduce the travel of 8" DH forks such as Fox 40 to 6". This raises the question: would it make sense to do this for ebikes? I like dual-crown forks because they are stiffer and heavier and somehow seem more suited for an ebike, yet I don't see this approach in the wild as most people seem to be happy with single-crown fork such as Fox 34 or Fox 36.


texts: How are the racing categories in the US decided?

texts: I have heard mention before of racing cyclists in the US being, say, a Category 2 racer.  What are these categories and how are they decided?


texts: Compatibility of predictive steering hub with boost 110 fork

texts:
I have a bike which had a RS1 fork and a wheel with a required predictive steering hub.

I have a second bike which has a Boost 110 front fork.

Since both these hubs are 110mm wide, can I use the wheel with the predictive steering hub on the Boost 110 fork?

I know it does not work the other way around since the RS1 fork does require the predictive hub.


texts: mtb deraileur for 1998 s-works (8 speed)

texts:
I recently installed a Sunrace R90. The chain jumps in the middle gears. This may hurt my sprockets. I wonder if it is the shifter being worn that causes the jumping back and forth, for example from 5th to 6th. (The shifter is Deore XT.) Also one screw or spot on the hanger is stripped. The bike mechanic says he would start by changing the housing and cable first. I have already had adjustments made.

Any thoughts?


texts:
I just bought a pair of Speedplay pedals and was trying to set them up today. Once I got the cleats on with the included shims, I tried to clip in and had to use an absurd amount of force to get into them (basically pulling up on my frame while putting almost all of my weight into the pedal). I did lube the engagement spring and have tried to put my heel down and wiggle a bit when clipping in but have still been largely unsuccessful.

Is this normal for a first setup before they are broken in? Or did I set up the cleats improperly in some way that is causing me problems?

Also, at 130 lbs, do I weigh enough to be able to reasonably expect to clip in ok? I thought about the X5s or Light Actions since it sounds like the engagement force is less, but Speedplay says you shouldn't race on them and LBS said engagement force wouldn't be an issue.


texts: Torque Wrench required for trainer cassette installation?

texts:
I have a new trainer arriving on the 29th and obviously this will involve either using my existing cassette that’s still on the wheel or a new cassette to put on the trainer.
As my existing cassette has already run the same distance as the existing chain I’m thinking of using the existing cassette.
Now removing and installing the cassette doesn’t seem too hard and I’ve ordered the relevant tools

Chain whip
Cassette tool

How important is a torque wrench on this?
I think I remember somewhere that the R7000 cassette is 40Nm, or roughly 29 ft-lbs.
Do I need a torque wrench or is it a case of being tight is good enough?
Looking at the trainer install video the guy literally does it up with an adjustable wrench. This got me wondering how important is a torque wrench in this instance?
Install Video
Skip to around 6 minutes for the cassette installation


texts: How can I attach a set of five panniers?

texts:
My ex's mother gave me her old set of five panniers. When researching it seems that they normally come in sets of two and, as I understand, they normally attached to a rack over the rear tire.

Having five, I'm not sure where all of these go without getting in the way of the rest of my bike. There just doesn't seem to be an arrangement where they would all fit.

Pictured at top: The top two have rectangular backing plates, so these seem like standard rear tire mounted panniers.
Pictured at bottom (the one with the reflector): It seems like a front or back pannier? No hooks, only bungies.
Pictured in middle (two oddly shaped ones): The very large, backing plate has five sides shaped like a sideways baseball diamond. They have hooks as well.
The brand seems to be REI PeakValue, but my searching turned up little on this brand.

How would all of these mount to a bike?


texts: Italian bottom bracket Shimano BB-6400 fixed cup tightening - what tool?

texts:
All,

I have a Shimano 600 Italian-threaded bottom bracket (BB-6400) and after riding with it for a few weeks, the fixed cup is loosening. I've since read up about Italian BBs and learned that the correct amount of torque needs to be applied to the fixed cup, somewhere in the 600 in-lb range.

My guess is that my HCW-4 isn't quite cutting it to get me to that level. I'd like to tighten it correctly and am looking for the right tool. If I'm in the market for a torque wrench, what tool or combination of tools will fit the 36 mm cup and allow me to reach the right torque?

Thanks.


texts: What's the rubber tube in my puncture repair kit for?

texts:
I've got an old school puncture repair kit, the type with glue and patches.

As well as the sandpaper, patches, 'vulcanizing fluid' and instructions, there is a 2.5cm long, 3mm wide, beige rubber tube.

What's it for?

(it doesn't seem to appear in the pictorial instructions)


texts:
Bought a aluminum frame with rear suspension, got it sanded and powder paint. While they matched the color perfectly, it's smooth and evenly distributed BUT UNFORTUNATELY totally forgot to cover any threads.

Managed to remove the paint from bottom bracket threads, seat post tube and frame head tube with a copper brush, sandpaper and gently using an awl.

Problem is the #5, #6 threads for equipment and derailleur which is a part of a frame.

Could use a tap on #5 and #6, but the threads aren't damaged so there's no need as they are undamaged.

Any way to remove the paint chemically? Tried a hydrocarbon solvent that I left for 4 hours without slightest effect.


texts: No Tourney or Altus parts on Shimano website?

texts:
Why are there no Tourney or Altus parts on Shimano site, only Acera?

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/acera_9-speed.html?

Did they stop producing anything less than 9 speed? Or am I searching in the wrong place?


texts:
I was climbing a steep hill, and all of a sudden my pedals started spinning freely. The freewheel had given up.
I removed the cassette and found the XD driver looking like this:

The areas around the pawls are damaged, and the bearing is cracked. My guess is that the pawl somehow managed to flip and put a ton of pressure onto the bearing below.
Wheels are Reynolds TR249, relatively new (2k km), serviced only once (two bearings changed, one in the cassette body, one in the wheel hub).

Questions:

How does a cassette body get worn that fast, in such a fashion?
How can a cassette body bearing CRACK??


texts:
What bmx logo brand is this ?

It has a lower case b or upside down p and a right-side up p in the shape of a rocket.


texts: I purchased Pinhead security skewers, and the instructions suggest to tighten them to 8 N-m (70 in-lb) of torque. However, the skewers use a special key which doesn't appear compatible with a torque wrench, so how can I figure out how much torque I am putting on them?


texts: How to deal with lock that keeps jamming?

texts:
I have a kryptonite U lock and lately it's been sticking a lot while trying to turn the key. Usually I can eventually get the key turned. It was getting worse though and a few days ago I (unable to find any lube/wd-40 etc) cleaned it out with soap and water which seemed to help a great deal. I also started being very careful to make sure the little key-hole guard engaged. Last night when I was totally unable to get my bicycle unlocked and had to leave it there and walk home. The key would fit into the lock and turn half way and then stop. I'm going to go try and pick it up now, but I don't know the best way to try and make sure this doesn't keep happening. It's winter here and I wonder if that might have something to do with it.

Edit: I ended up at the hardware store and the guy there (who had built his own bike in his garage, conveniently) recommended jig-a-loo. This made the lock move really well but I still couldn't get it open. This is when I noticed that my key was twisted (From trying to force the lock probably). I flattened the key back in a clamp and was able eventually to unlock it, but I can't seem to lock it again, so I ordered new keys. I'll have to wait till they come to see if that solves anything or it's actually a problem with the lock...

Edit again: Some graphite and new keys seemed to do the trick!


texts:
I've got some spoke nipples on a rear wheel which are stripped, and I'd like to replace them.

I've measured the thickness of the spokes and they have a diameter of 2mm, which correspond to 14-gauge from what I've gathered on the web. The length of the nipples is 12mm.

I ordered some DT swiss spoke nipples, which were marked as 14G 12mm, but when I received them it was written 2mm x 12mm on the box, where the 2mm isn't the thread diameter of the spoke onto which the nipples thread, but the diameter of the flat faces used to tighten them. Obviously, they didn't fit onto the 14G spokes.

What is the standard way of giving the size of spoke nipples, does 14G mean they thread onto a 2mm spoke or is it the size of the spoke tool needed to tighten them?

Thanks for any advice!


texts: Will Deore M6000 SGS derailleur work with 42t cassette in 1x10 configuration?

texts:
I'm building a 26er 1x10 commuter. I have a 40t chainring and 11-42 cassette.

Will an out-of-the-box (no goat link or extra-long B screw) 2017 Deore M6000 SGS Rear Derailleur work with this?

Will the YBN SLA 101-TiB chain have enough links to cover the drivetrain?


texts: What is the purpose of this small block on the handlebar?

texts:
What is the purpose of this small block on a handlebar?

This article on "bicycle archeology" (in Dutch) describes that they have almost completely disappeared, and are found only on very old bicycles.  It does not really describe the purpose, except indirectly that "nowadays we don't care about scratches".  But I fail to see how this block would prevent scratches.

What is the purpose?


texts: Should I replace the bent Derailleur hanger?

texts:
My friend (also on a bike) collided with me while we were riding together. As a result of the collision, I now have a bent derailleur hanger. Should I replace it alongside the Derailleur?

The bike is a Carrera Vengeance


texts: Can I 'upgrade' a 9 speed Tiagra RD to Sora to lower my gears?

texts:
My girlfriend has an oldish Cannondale CAAD8 bike with Tiagra 9 speed triple. The rear derailleur is the RD-4500 GS with a 12-26 cassette. The front is a 50-39-30. She'd like to get a lower bottom gear as we plan on touring up some intimidating hills this summer... The issue is that the RD-4500 doesn't support larger than a 27 tooth sprocket at the back.
Would we be able to switch the RD-4500 for the Sora RD-R3000 GS? My hope is that it's 9 speed, so should be compatible. It has a much wider size (supporting up to a 34T at the back, total capacity of 43), whilst still supporting front chainring difference of 20.
I would then throw on a 11-34 cassette or something like that, changing the chain at the same time.
Is she likely to run into any issues? Is current-Sora worse or better than 15-year-old Tiagra in terms of smoothness etc. (though of course she'll lose out on some smoothness by widening the cassette)?
Is there anything else I should be checking - or any other good ways to achieve a similar range of gears? (She doesn't care too much about the fastest gears, rarely finds herself in them so if you have any options that involve sacrificing a bit of room at that end please go for it.) We're thinking about this option because at least she won't have to upgrade to 10 speed and change all the shifters, etc.


texts: I need an StVZO compliant bike light. Any recommendations?

texts: I tried to buy one from Amazon but after testing it today the beam is clearly symmetrical and has no advantages over a normal bike light. I live in the UK so the StVZO regulation is not one which I have to comply with but I feel it is part of being a responsible road user. I'm open to the idea of having one that mount son my helmet.


texts: Does anybody know of a royalty-free, reasonably comprehensive source of 2D CAD files of bicycle parts? I use LibreCad so .dxf preferable, but most other formats possible. For personal use only.


texts:
I am very new to the bike maintenance, but want to learn how to do it myself. I have got a MTB which won't change the gears at front. It's basically stuck in the granny gear at the moment. I tried to lower down the front derailleur as it was too high I think, in order to do that I had to slack the cable a bit. It still unable to change the gears. Any advice what I can check will be appreciated a lot. I attached some photos.

Cheers


texts: Wheel tru, bearing & cones tight but still WOBBLES

texts:
I have a 35 year old Trek Mountain bike that I have refurbished.
- Rear wheel is true within +/-5 thousandth (it is true as mounted on the bike using a calipers clamped to the frame and perpendicular to the rim)
- Bearings (9 x 1/4") have been replaced and cone is tight (no perceptible rocking)
- All spokes are intact
- The wheel is set all the way back in the frame slot

When I spin the wheel under no load, as expected, it spins true without any perceptible wobble.

BUT when I ride, I feel and hear it rubbing back-and forth on the brakes -- and when I look down, I can see the wheel (and the rim itself) very clearly wobbling back and forth between the caliper pads.

Also, if I put lateral pressure on the rim with my fingers, I can feel it giving laterally, though this may be normal given that it is all under tension anyway.

Note bike was working fine until last week.

What could be causing a wobble under load that doesn't exist under no-load?

Could it be that the spokes aren't under enough tension? (i.e. would it be helpful to say tighten each spoke by say 1/2 turn?)

Thanks


texts:
If I change my 1x chainring from a 44 to a 42, do I need to shorten the chain? If so by how many links?

I am running a 44 with an 11-42 cassette (SRAM Apex1).


texts: Shimano Inter-3 Hub coaster brake maintainance

texts:
When I brake with my Shimano Inter-3 hub coaster brake it makes a loud screaming sound. There is an indication on the hub where you should lubricate it but I do not get it, there is no hole/opening to the hub. Can anybody point me at the right direction? Do I really have to open the entire hub?

I tried to lubricate it with normal chain oil from the outside (I know it's not the right one) but had no success.


texts:
I have a pair of Kinetix Pro wheels on my Dahon folder. The front wheel has developed a wobble, so I got out my spoke key to fix it and.... there are no spoke nipples next to the rim. (The slight bulge you can see in the picture is due to the butting of the spoke, it's not a spoke nipple).

Presumably it's possible to true them from the inside of the rim, but if possible I'd rather not rip off the rim tape only to find out that I don't have the right tool - so if anyone knows what I need, I would be very grateful.


texts:
For nearly 3 years now, I have been using a 21-inch hybrid bicycle (Fuji Absolute 1.9D).

My use of the bike is primarily for aerobic exercise. I ride about 20 kilometres in the morning for about an hour.

Now I'm planning on switching to a road bike. The purpose of use remains the same -  aerobic exercise.

I ride only on tarred roads.  I don't go off the road.

Now, my questions are:

Am  I making the right decision?
My bike dealer tells me that the size of the road bike should be one less than a hybrid. That is, if my hybrid is Large then my road bike should be Medium. Do you agree?

Thank you.


texts: I am from India and am planning to get a new bicycle. In India the roadster bicycles are very common, hence are cheap and easy to get. Roadsters have 28.5'' diameter wheels. Is it possible to fit 700c wheels to roadster frame, install drops and new drivetrain (and brakes) to make it perform like a tourer?


texts: can a single sprocket be locked on a road bike?

texts: I have a univega and a fixie. i love the idea of fixed gear bikes but live in a very hilly area which requires more than just one gear. Is there a way to combined those two ideas into one awesome cycling machine? comments are appreciated. thanks.


texts: What do I do with this during SR suntour lower leg service?

texts:
I'm trying to do a lower leg service on my fork: SR Suntour Epixon  29er
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014UQDX9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've removed the rebound dial expecting something to stick an allen key into as normal. Instead it is this:

What do I do with this? Do I need to pull the bit in the centre out so I can fit an allen key in? Or a socket wrench that unscrews the whole thing?

If anyone knows of a better service manual than the one provided with this fork, or service videos for this model please share.

Thanks


texts: How do I identify an SR SunTour fork exact model?

texts:
I recently located this SR SunTour service manual, containing schematics of a load of forks. Trouble is, my fork only has "XCR" on a sticker, and production date stamped.

At some forum this is discussed and links are provided to SunTour's XCM, XCR and XCR product lines. Strangely, my XCR does not match visually any of the presented (mine has no V-brake option).

Am I supposed to find a model number stamped somewhere on the fork, as with most other bicycle components, or should I deduce which fork it is from the features e.g. wheel size, brake options, outlook, locking and adjustment mechanisms.

I would be quite surprised if the model is not stamped. How do bicycle mechanics deduce the model - do they know them all from experience?


texts: Chains for fixed gear bike noise problem

texts:
I mounted my fixed gear bike and I would like your opinion about the installation of my chain.
The noise in the following video is made by my chain (and nothing else) and I am not reassured.
I first thought the run of the chain was not correct but yet it seems it does.
I checked that my chain can move vertically more than +/- 0.5 inch (halfway).
Here are my components (they are all new):

Surly steamroller frame
chain 1/2 x 1/8
miche Bottom bracket 107mm
miche primato adavanced drive

Here is the video, how does it sound ?


texts: Are there any drivetrain components designed and sold to last longer?

texts:
If a chain is only supposed to last 2000 miles, a rear cassette 5000 miles and a chainset only 10000 miles, then, at a modest 100 miles a week you are going to go through 2.5 chains a year, a new sprocket set every year and a new chainset every couple of years.

Doing this near-constant refurbishment properly (and paying workshop rates) will mean paying for the bike twice-over in the first two years (or thereabouts).

I have seen components advertised as lighter/stronger/funkier, but, as of yet, none have caught my eye due to their extended 'service life'. Are there any parts sold with 'service life' part of the USP?

If not, why doesn't anyone want extended service life? Do none of us look past the thrill of having a new bike and look for something that will last?


texts: The crank arm slips when pressing hard on pedals with Shimano Nexus

texts:
I have replaced my wheels with a Shimano Nexus 8-speed internal gear hub set but I may have had the problem before the change. When I push down relatively hard on the crank arm for example starting off quickly or riding uphill fast, the crank arm slips with a jolt. Quite often the chain comes off soon after. I can't really see anything as I'm always obviously riding at the time, and the noise can't be located, but it is very irritating and happens in all gears.

Would anyone be able to tell me what this could be?


texts:
I am interested in home-made sports drinks. I have used "Hammer Nutrition" products, but I could probably put it together myself, just by using the key ingredients. Anyhow, has anyone done this? And, how do you determine the carb/fat/protein + vitamin/mineral ratios?

A couple of years ago I ran across an FRS ad on a cycling site. Since Lance was promoting it, I took a look at the claims. Basically, the FRS products contain sugar, some vitamins, plus supplements of Quercetin and Catechin. The main benefit claim for FRS turns out to be the quercetin.

So I came up with a simple concoction of honey sweetened tea, and also pop a multivitamin before a ride. (Tea is one of the highest sources of quercetin.) And carry along a high cocoa bar for catechins. (Cocoa is high in catechin.) So, all in all way cheaper than buying FRS.

Does anyone make their own sports drinks? And if so, what do you put in it? I personally dislike most commercial sports drinks and so for electrolytes, when needed, I use Endurolyte tablets.

  Maltodextrin will go into the mix. However, how do I formulate the rest of it?

Edit: This was recently downvoted. Maybe it's a bad question?


texts: Can a worn drive-train be upgraded incrementally or should it be all at once?

texts:
It seems like I have a worn drive-train (sad trombone previous question) and should think about improving it.

I'm a little leery about throwing good money after bad into a used bike. Must I buy a new drive-train as a whole or can I buy the components separately and see an improvement? If the latter, in what order should I buy components?


texts: Can a chain-lock be better against cutting than a U-lock?

texts:
I'm looking for a bike lock and, in 2013, Kryptonite have a new lock, the Evolution Series 4 Mini Chain:

The chain is quoted as being only 55 cm long, and 10 mm thick.

Is the blue mark below a correct interpretation for the reported thickness?

On that note:

To actually manage to remove the lock, would you have to cut through a single link completely in two places? See the red marked below:

If yes, then that would require cutting through 20 mm of manganese steel — exceeding the 18 mm thickness of the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit that is often regarded as one of the best D-locks.

So when considering cutting, is the Evolution Mini Chain is actually more secure? (With the added benefit of being more flexible than a D-lock.)

On the other hand, if cut only once, would the chain link bend enough to allow the other to slip through?


texts: Is cycling killing me? Excessive congestion

texts:
For lack of insight elsewhere I thought I'd turn to the this active Exchange to see if others have had similar experiences with their respiratory system while cycling. (note: I have already seen a doctor multiple times, not looking for trusted medical advice, just opinions and perspectives).

I've been cycling for 4 seasons. First couple of seasons were fine, I had no real issues. Then last season started well (albeit much more aggressive training) until I soon began experiencing sinus and chest congestion after every ride which developed into pneumonia in the beginning of Fall.

After a hospital stay and most of the winter off, I slowly got back on the trainer and worked up to my previous level of fitness (~6-10 hrs of riding a week and racing multiple times a season). Now, I'm beginning to experience the same type of congestion issues that previously "turned into" pneumonia.

Constant throat clearing and coughing. Half a box of tissues throughout the day and lots of snot/phlegm on the bike. My doctor and a pulmonary therapist suggested that I have activity induced asthma and gave me an inhaler + allergy/asthma medicine. This seems to ease the symptoms a little, but still they persist.

Any similar experiences out there?


texts: Why do my disc brake calipers fall out of alignment?

texts:
Every so often the Shimano 105 7020 hydraulic disc brakes on my road bike start to make a metallic grinding noise and I can feel additional resistance when riding. The culprit has always been misaligned brake calipers on both my front and rear wheels. The fix is simple: throw the bike on the stand, loosen the caliper bolts, spin the wheel, hit the brakes, and tighten the bolts.
I'm wondering why the calipers fall out of alignment in the first place? When using the brakes while riding you're forcing them into the correct, centred position - basically the technique I described above to fix them.
I can also imagine that the calipers might move around due to other forces (bumps, etc) and hitting the brakes doesn't apply enough force to centre them. In that case it probably bends the rotor a bit. The solution in this case is to tighten the caliper bolts more but I already use full force with a screwdriver and don't want to risk doing any damage to the fork posts with a wrench.


texts: What bottom bracket is this and why does it have a lockring?

texts:
After watching some videos I'm pretty sure that the BB on my bike is a three piece square taper type.

After a short search I couldn't see any any videos or articles on how to remove a BB which has the 20 groove cups (?) and a lockring.

The bike is Pinarello Lungavita single speed. I bought it second hand and I cannot find any info on what the BB is.

Would you be able to figure out what BB it is and what the locking is for?


texts: I have a new road bike and when I move into the largest cog in the back, some variation on the above photo happens every couple of rotations. (Has been fixed by adjusting the barrel adjuster). I'm curious: what is this called?


texts: What do you do when the bus bike rack is full?

texts:
Sometimes I take commute via bike, other times on the bus, but I rarely plan on doing both because I worry about the possibility of waiting for a bus only to find that its bike rack is full and having to wait for the next bus, which may also have a full bike rack.

What do you do in this case? I asked a bus driver today on the way home and I couldn't really understand what he was saying, but he said something about a bike rack in the back and I think he was saying that were he not driving the rapid bus and were his schedule different, he would put any extra bikes in the back. Not sure though, he could have said something completely different.


texts: Why do cyclists use padded shorts instead of padded saddle? It seems like putting padding on the saddle would be more optimal. Doubly so for triathlon.


texts: Giant Revel 29er 2015 - maximum width of tire I can fit?

texts:
I own a Giant Revel 29" 2015 which has 2.1" wide tires. I want to go wider.

What's the maximum size of tire that I can put on these rims?


texts:
My cassette (SRAM XG-1175) moves axially about 5 to 8mm (in line with the axle, not up and down) on my hub (whatever is standard on a 2016 Enduro Elite)

But the part of the hub the cassette mounts to also moves with the cassette.

What could be the issue here?


texts: Does anybody have the diagram for a generic Formula hub axle assembly? It has a fixed cone on one side of the axe with no spanner flats. I'm not sure which side of the hub this is supposed to go on and am having trouble with the disk brake spacing in the frame. Bike is an ~ 2006-7 Felt with disk brakes.


texts: First time on any bike that I have broken a spoke. It instantly deformed the wheel making the bike un-rideable. From what I've read a single broken spoke should not do this, so anyone know what's going on here?


texts: SRAM XD cassette will not fit on the splines of an XDR driver

texts:
I have an 11 speed 10-42 XD cassette that I am trying to fit on an XDR driver (this one - https://www.alltricks.com/F-41493-pieces-roues/P-676097-fulcrum_body_sram_xdr). No matter how I turn the cassette it seems like the splines on the driver are too big to fit in the recesses within the cassette. It's not even that it's stiff to push in all the way; I cannot get it on at all. It's like they're not even supposed to be compatible.

I know this is supposed to work because there's an official SRAM video showing exactly what I want to do:

             (from 37 seconds and you can see the splines engage at 52 seconds).

Edit: I solved it. Turns out that the ease of fitting in that video must only occur when you have it on the wheel. My wheels haven't arrived yet so I was just trying to see if it would fit by hand. It does with a chain whip and cassette tool.


texts: I have an old steel frame Peugot road bike that I want to fit a bottle cage to. It has braze-ons but I'm not sure how to mount it. Can anyone advise? Pictures uploaded.


texts: How to replace a bottle dynamo with batteries

texts:
I have a bike using a bottle dynamo.
It works ok but I just use the light when it's absolutely needed because the dynamo really slows down the bike.

I would like to make the bike run with batteries, what is the easiest way?


texts: How do i fix my v-brake with some part twisted?

texts:
Here's the pictures

I did a lot of searching on the youtube about the fix but couldn't find as i don't know what that part of the bike is called.Its seems to me as if i need to buy new ones moreover since that is twisted and i tried to straighten it but didn't work.
if this needs to be bought what suold i searh for to buy online and what specifiactions


texts:
I've just added a pair of bar ends to my handlebar. I feels surprisingly good, except that they are too thin, compared to my grips.

Are there any options to make them more comfortable? Maybe I can put a bar tape on them? If so, should I look for some specific type of this tape?

This is a picture of them if it helps.


texts: Fitting a CycloTricity E kit to a Sirrus Elite

texts:
The instructions are clear and accompanied by photographs of the procedures.
However in attempting to fit the motor wheel into the forks of the Sirrus I find that the motor spindle is wider than the existing wheel spindle and will not fit into the fork drop out.At this stage the instructions suggest filing the drop outs to fit which I am loath to do, as if I wish to revert to non electric the drop out will be too wide.
I am tempted to file the motor spindle to fit the fork, about 2mm of metal.
All suggestions welcomed.


texts: What's the best way to transport groceries on rough roads without breakage? (My town has a generous budget for potholes.) I currently use a 2-wheeled cargo trailer, but it there anything I can do to cushion the more delicate items (i.e., eggs)? What about items like milk, where every pothole causes the liquid to slosh around?


texts: Winter maintenance before putting bike in winter storage?

texts: What kind of maintenance should I do before putting my bike into storage for the winter?  Are there any special considerations for storing it?  Does temperature matter?  If it's hanging on the wall from the rim all winter long, will that affect the shape of my rims?  Any other winter storage advice would be nice to hear.


texts: Is it possible to do 50 km distance without any previous training?

texts:
I'm considering to do a 50-55 km distance on a mixed surface. Mostly asphalt and gravel, maybe even a little bit of sand. Haven't done any training or exercise, basically been sitting at home all day, everyday for years. Don't know why but suddenly had an urge to go on a journey.

My bicycle is quite old, 12 or so years, not in a great condition either but nothing is falling off so far. That wouldn't be my concern though, my concern is will my legs be able to cycle for 50 km in one go without any previous leg training. Is it advisable for me to do this? Will my legs be stiff after the first 10 km? What do you guys think?

Edit  I'm 24. Last year I tried a 30 km distance, my legs were gone after 20 and I had to step off my bicycle and walk a bit, as it seemed easier than cycling. That was my only real exercise I've done in a couple of years.

I really have all day and can take as many rests as I want. I'd say I have a solid 8 hours. Is it doable if I go on a gear that doesn't require a lot of push?


texts:
I bought a second hand road bike recently, I'm quite new to the field.

I had a wet'ish ride and ever since getting a little bit of mud on my bike there's a metallic chaffing sound whenever I apply any sort of force to the pedals. I think it's coming from the chain but that doesn't seem to lack lubricant, is there a way to test this?
When applying a lot of force to the pedals I'll here more of a cringing sound from somewhere on the bike, I can't tell where that's coming from either :\


texts: Do I need to take my weight off the bike to lock out the suspension?

texts: I've recently bought myself a new mountain bike (my first since my schooldays...) and it has front suspension with a lock-out function.  Suspension is new to me and I'm not sure how to use the lock-out.  It seems I have to stop and take my weight off the bike to lock-out the suspension - is this correct?  Or should I be able to operate the lock-out whilst sat on the bike and I'm just not turning the lock-out hard enough?  As I'm not really sure, I've avoided turning it too hard in case I do some damage.


texts:
I'm nervous about hand signalling (taking a hand off the handle bar) while I'm decelerating: I'm worried that my body being pushed forward will act on the one remaining hand and change the angle of the front wheel.

So I'm sometimes not signalling as much as I'd like to (e.g. while I'm decelerating): as much as I would in a car.

Is this a known problem? Is there a work-around or solution?

This is for riding in city traffic. For example on a main road, relatively fast with cars following, I want to slow down before turning off onto a side street.


texts: Anyone know what brand this emblem is from?

texts: I am curious to know if this is a custom head badge or if it is a stock emblem. searched the images on head badge sites but no luck. I even uploaded image to search by image engines and no correct results. so wondering if someone knows this emblem decal.


texts: Reposition pedal on a fixed gear (fixie)

texts:
I've been riding a fixie for about 3 months, without foot retention, for commuting. As I ride at about 10km/h I don't feel the need for it.

I've learned I can reposition (lift) my right pedal (dominant side) with my right foot by using the the front wheel brake.

I'm always trying to stop with my right foot to the front of the left one, but often I can't and have to lift the rear of the bike to push the right pedal back to the front and sometimes the lights goes from red to green while I'm doing this.

I know I could just learn to reposition and start with the left foot. But is there an easier way to reposition my right pedal? I know I could use foot retention for this, but I feel safer without it amidst cars.


texts: Is it normal for a new Shimano hub to feel rough?

texts: I have recently purchased a brand new Shimano HB-M7110-B front hub. When I unpacked it and started rotating it with my fingers (as you always must) I noticed that it actually felt quite rough, almost like a light pepper grinder. Is this normal for a new hub, or is it an indication that it is defective?


texts: What are the most significant factors affecting downhill cruising speed?

texts:
When I'm riding with my friend, I notice that he rolls down hills significantly faster than me. We can be riding next to each other, both in a similar aerodynamic position, but if we both coast he pulls away from me surprisingly quickly.

I'm a fair bit taller than him and probably weigh a little more (but only a few kilograms/pounds). Our bikes are similar. We both tuck into a similar position.

Apart from our size/shape, the main difference I can see are wheels. I have Campagnolo Khamsin and he has a set of American Classics that he purchased after he got the bike and spent about $800 on. They have a much deeper V than my wheels. My main theory is that the wheels are what's making the difference, possibly with aerodynamics and also better rolling resistance in the hubs, but I'm not sure how to confirm or deny this.


texts: Are there any differences between Shimano 10-speed connecting pins?

texts:
I am looking for connecting pins for Shimano CN-5600 and CN-5701. I found some on eBay but are for Dura Ace. Are they compatible?

The chains in question are super narrow HG which are 5.88 mm wide.


texts: 10-speed chain too short, can I add links?

texts:
I purchased a new KMC DX10SC 10-speed 114 link chain to replace my worn out chain. I'm running a mountain triple and it seems that The chain is slightly too short at it's full length. I can't get in the big ring on front chainring and rear cassette at the same time. I don't necessarily want to ride like that (terrible crosschaining), but I would prefer to have the capacity to do so since If I shift up to the top of the cassette it locks the derailleur in to place due to the tension and I can't shift out of it.

So, can I simply push out the pin and add a few more links and re-join it the same way? I'll have to buy another chain presumably to extend it or find some spare 10-speed links. Is this something that causes problems with 10-speed chains or can I do it the same way I've always done with my 6/7/8 speed chains?

I figure my alternative is to get a short patch of chain and use a couple KMC missing link quick links to join the sections together.


texts: What holds back refinement of self-energizing bicycle brake designs?

texts:
Existing examples, that I've come across at least, are generally a mess and ride more like early proof of concept experiments than something that should ever have been put in the hands of normal people. They're difficult to modulate and add what feels like an arbitrary and unpredictable amount of power to the braking system. This impression of them became more or less entrenched, and that's essentially the last we've seen of them.

But why did it end there so decisively?

In the canti design, instead of completely replacing the pivot with a helical interface, why can't you combine the two? I.e. have a traditional pivot doing most of the work but with a helical interface with a very short, controlled amount of travel layered alongside it to amplify the power up to a certain point. Or, similarly, in a disk brake, couldn't you have traditional pistons but at the end of them there's a little track angled on either side towards the rotor for the pad to get pushed down, similarly adding a controlled amount of braking power?


texts: Apologies if this is the wrong type of question to ask here, but I was just wondering if anyone knows what particular wheel set comes with this Trek 1.5 2013 bike. I'm pretty sure this is the one I currently own, but other than the fact they are Bontrager I can't figure out what specific ones they are. I recently was hit by a car on my bike and (thankfully) the only damage is to the front wheelset, so I was looking to find out the weight so that I can replace them appropriately.


texts: Aero bike vs climbing bike for running in Crits

texts:
I'm considering building a road bike and getting into running Crits this Summer and I'm unsure as to go with an Aero bike or a climbing (lightweight) bike.

Based on my general understanding, when not going up steep hills (which of course is not done in Crits) as a general rule of thumb an Aero bike is definitely faster.

Based on this I would have expected to see most Crit riders on Aero bikes, but when I watch YouTube videos of Crits most of the riders are on lightweight bikes.  There are only 3 reasons I can think of for this:

1) Cost, non-professional riders may already own an endurance bike used for long weekend training rides or commuting on rough roads and not have the $$$ to drop on a 2nd bike just for running occasional Crits.

2) If in the pack most/all of the race, some degree of the Aero benefit would be negated (of course this is not a very good reason b/c if you intend to win then obviously you would not be in the middle of the pack, at least not in the end).

3) Most Crit circuits have frequent turns, perhaps endurance or climbing bikes are better for this purpose?

Even considering the above reasons, the whole point of a Crit is to go absolutely as fast as possible for a relatively short amount of time, therefore I would have expected to see almost all Crit participants on an Aero bike, but from watching Crits on YouTube is seems very few Crit riders use an Aero bike.  Can somebody explain this further?


texts:
When I press down hard on my right foot trying to go fast or up a hill I hear a noise coming from my bike. What is this? Its brand new... If it isn't an easy fix I will take it back. It only happens with my right foot and when pressing down hard...

Oh also on my wife now bike if you press too hard on each pedal there is a creaking noise. What is this? sounds something is not lubed. It is a new bike also.

Thanks in advance.


texts: What is different about cycling in London?

texts:
Prologue

I cycle in Toronto, Canada: which has wide straight roads, bike lanes, bike paths, no traffic on residential roads etc.

My brother lives near Brixton: he doesn't cycle himself, and says that it would be too dangerous ... that people do cycle, but are killed too often, squeezed against a railing by a lorry for example.

I asked him if he'd tried "Boris bikes" and he said that those don't exist in Brixton.

I have driven cars in London, but not cycled. I commute in Toronto so I'm used to "vehicular cycling".

I'd expect to use something like a $800 'hybrid' bike, with straight-out handlebars and touring tires and great brakes.

Question

What should I know about cycling in London?

Details

For example, answers to any of the following might be useful:

What's your strategy for getting from A to B: how do you navigate? Is there a list of suggested cycle routes? Is there a 'hidden London', e.g. cycle paths along canals or railways, which motorists or even pedestrians wouldn't know about?
How far can you go in a hour of cycling, starting e.g. from Brixton: what's the average km/hour in traffic?
Assuming you behave on a bicycle as if you were a small moped, i.e. if you "own" the lane you're in etc., is that safe enough?
Are there specific dangers (intersections, lane changes, traffic and others drivers, other obstacles) which a cyclist who is new to London ought to beware?
Is everywhere in London safe to cycle, or should you avoid certain areas of town or certain types of road?
What about not getting your bike stolen? Is a "New York" U-lock on the frame combined with pin-head locks on the wheels enough?


texts:
First of all, I am either inexperienced or very lucky because I have never had a flat bike tire in my life. Now comes the question.

I have a basic "Specialized Sirrus 2013" hybrid bike which has run 2500 kilometers (over 1500 miles) in various conditions. The tires are "Specialized Nimbus 700x28c". Today I accidentally noticed that the rear tire is indeed damaged:

I have no idea how long it has been like this or what is the cause (maybe a very sharp rock?). The cut/scrape is about 1 millimeter wide, 6-7 millimeter long and 3-4 millimeter deep (0.04x0.25x0.15 inches). It is clean of substantial debris but stays open like that when normally inflated at 115 Psi.

What actions should I take? The tire is not flat and I am able to ride normally but should I be concerned?


texts: I have an old '89 Trek Singletrack 950 with the original Shimano Mountain LX group bottom bracket. I'd like to replace the bottom bracket with something new. Can anyone help me determine what will fit and what I should best replace it with for touring and single track? Would a new Shimano Deore xt BB-MT800 fit/work? Anything I need to know before I attempt this project?


texts:
Can anyone tell me what happen to the Vista Bicycle company?  I'd like to know where to find parts, and did another company buy out Vista?

My Vista Sport 27inch 10 speed bike was purchased 40 years ago.  I live in Richmond, Va. There's a bike races coming here in a couple of weeks which got me to  dig out the Vista and clean it up.

Edit:
It took me a while to get back here, but I have found all the parts are SunTour parts. I have found all parts needed on EBay, except the Crankset.....I am still in need , but wonder if I can substitute the Suntour crankset set.


texts:
A friend is about to buy a second-hand Dahon Vitesse D7HG with the usual 20" wheels.

Since she knows nothing about bike mechanics, doesn't want to learn, and that bike has a Nexus 7 hub gear system, it's probably a good idea to go for puncture-resistant tires.

Before I go ahead and get a couple of Schwalbe Marathon Plus, are there other brands I should know about?

Thank you.


texts:
I have Race King (continental) 2.2 MTB 28" tires that I need to store until it's winter and snows again. They are foldable, and I planned to store them in their original boxes, but how do I properly fold them so they fit in the boxes like they did when they were new?

I've tried to just fold them, but they don't fit in the boxes. I need a good description of how to fold them, and pictures are welcome.


texts: While pedaling standing up, bike crank gives in as if shifting, what is causing this?

texts:
While standing up and pedaling, the cranks give in as if shifting.

It seams like I am shifting down, but my hands are off the shifter, almost like the chain is skipping a link.

I took it to a bike repair shop that charged me 30 bucks to replace a chain. However, the problem still exists. What are the likely causes of this?


texts: Bicycle chainring dropping/ making a click sound. Help!

texts:
My bike is a bit dirty but can someone explain whats happening and a possible fix for this issue?

a video with the issue on imgur


texts: Swytch eBike conversion wheel axle diameter

texts: I purchased the Swytch eBike conversion front wheel but I found that the axle was 11mm in diameter, which was too big for my hybrid bike and any other bike fork I've tried. Could you tell me if there are bikes which take an 11mm front axle or advice on what to do next. Thank you.


texts: Where can I look up voting guide for better bike infrastructure?

texts:
All I care about (my #1 issue) is getting better separated bicycle infrastructure (kid, old-person etc friendly) to southern California. Specifically for upcoming election and especially for local city election for a southern California city (Dana Point, CA) where can I look up who to vote for?

Something like the Sierra Club voting guide, but from bicyclist's perspective and especially for local politics. Other elections in addition to city council could be relevant also, state and federal as well as offices like the Sheriff.


texts: Any advice for wobbly/slightly bent bicycle rims on older bicycle?

texts:
I have an older RWC Female bicycle that I bought second hand a year ago and it has now in the past weeks began to feel extremely wobbly and shaky when I am riding it. It feels as if both the front and back wheels are wobbly.
I continued to ride the bicycle having a plan to take the bike into the shop to get looked at and hopefully fixed. Before I was able to do that my back tire blew out and is now completely flat.
I took the bike to the shop today and the mechanics there stated that the front rim (and maybe the back rim) is bent from bike stands etc. The ISO size of the RIM is 37-590, and the mechanic after looking at the wheel stated that this rim size is old and therefore will be very difficult to source and that they do not stock this type of wheel size.
Could you suggest if the wobbling of the wheels is due to the rim being bent (I can't see the bend with my eye as I am no expert) and whether the rim is able to be fixed with tools or if a whole new rim is required to fix the bicycle?
We are in Europe so if you know any suppliers of these size wheels that would be great too.
Thank you!


texts: Shimano 105 front derailleur, Sugino crank and large chain ring, chain touches the derailleur cage

texts:
Why does the chain on Shimano 105 front derailleur with Dura-Ace downtube front shifter touch the derailleur cage with the Sugino large chain ring?

The outer limit screw does not move it far enough. I have set the outer limit screw on furthest out I can set it. I don't see any other adjustments anywhere on the Dura-Ace downtube shifter nor on the derailleur.

There is plenty of play on the smaller chain ring, but I don't know how I could move the whole front derailleur further out? Any ideas?

It seems like the Shimano front derailleur/shifter has sort of 2 speed indexing, maybe this is the problem with Sugino front chainring spacing, I'd love to unset this indexing, but I don't know how.


texts:
Would the airzound bike horn cause hearing damage even if used well under the duration limit?

The Airzound is 115 dB which means according to the NIOSH standard, the duration limit is 28 seconds using a 3 dB exchange rate!
https://mecart.com/blog/2016/06/03/stop-noise-from-harming-your-employees-health-and-productivity/

A safety conscious college instructor taught his class that when loud sounds caused ringing, you've already permanently damaged your hearing.

Customers on Amazon mentined that the Airzound caused ringing in their ears. I experienced ringing in my ears when exposed for less than a second! That means according to the instructor, I've lost some hair cells. Is that really true?

An example here is a cyclist using it for 10 seconds in total in a day in the worst case during a round trip commute. It's possible to have a few right hooks, close passes, etc in one day. If 10 seconds in a day is enough to destroy hair cells and it's repeated once a week, it may become noticeable years later. Light duty hearing protection may be enough to prevent hearing loss. It needs to be light enough for hearing the traffic.


texts: Difference between a professional bike restoration place respraying and power coat company?

texts:
Ok,

Apart from they're a specialist so they can do decals, coach lines, rebuild/strip the bike, is there any difference in how they would paint it?

The professional places charge £200-300 (UK) to paint a frame and restore decals, respray etc. but at a general powder-coating company it's £50. It's very expensive and I'm reluctant to spend that kind of cash.


texts: Finding the correct bike for short tours and daily commutes

texts:
I am looking for a new bike after my current one has started to fall apart mostly.

As a disclaimer upfront: I have very little knowledge on bikes. For my current bike I did very minor repairs myself (fasten lose screws, etc.), for everything beyond that I mostly went to a shop or asked friends.

I am looking for a new bike to replace my - as mentioned before - falling apart old one. My constraints are mostly on the budget as I am not in a position to spend more than around 300€ on the bike - which I know is a rather tight budget.

I will be using the bike for two things mainly:

Daily commutes to the train station from home. This is a short 5 minute ride that however includes going up a quite steep hill. This for me was a point that ruled out a Single-Speed. Not completely sure here though.
Short tours of up to 20km (~12.5 miles). 80% road. 20% dirt/forest road. Nothing to steep, it's mostly flat around here. I would say >95% flat. The other is bridges, etc. so rather short slopes.

With these things in mind I considered to go for a City Bike. My current one also is a city bike and I think that I don't really need suspension, etc. However I might be wrong here as I never tried suspension before.

I also considered buying a used bike - however my problem here is that I am not sure what to look for here, to see if I buy something usable, or something that will fall apart after a couple months.

So to conclude and formulate a question: For my beforementioned budget and use-cases what would be a good bike-type or specific bike to look at and where should I look for it?


texts: Why do some triathlon seatposts go straight up and down instead of at an angle?

texts:
Why is it that some triathlon bikes have a seat post that adjusts straight up and down instead of the more standard axis that aims at the bottom bracket?

This means that if you raise (or lower) the seat on the special triathlon bikes, the torso/leg angle would change more than for a normal bike, right?  Doesn't this also mean that the straight-up vertical adjustment of these special triathlon bikes do not fit as wide a range of riders as if the seatpost adjusted in a way that kept the same torso/leg angle along the axis?

This question is not about triathlon bike geometry or efficiency of peddling.  Rather it asks about why the displayed vertical seatpost adjustment axis is used instead of a more standard adjustment axis for seatpost.

Here is a tri bike with the vertical seatpost:

Here is a more standard bike: