texts: Is it 'safe' to use a 700 x 47c tyre on a rim with inner width of 15mm?

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Looking to upgrade my tyres on an old roadie mash up to something chunkier so I can handle some off road sections on a ride coming up, currently it has a 27 x 1 1/4 front tyre and a 27 x 1 3/8 rear with plenty of clearance all round*.

I've got a set of 700c rims (internal width 15mm) that I am looking at putting on in place of what's already there because the tyres are cheaper for it, so would the wider 47c tyres be suitable for these rims? They have had a set of 32c tyres on them for ages no problems but it still looks like they'd fit a wider tyre quite fine, Just want to make sure first.

Also if wouldn't mind knowing what would be a minimum size tube to use, hoping to avoid having to buy new ones because I am on a $50 budget to get the bike suitable for the ride. At home I already have a number of thinner tubes that I doubt would work (up to 28c I believe) but also a pair of 27 x 1.25" tubes, Would these work for the 700 x 47c tyres? or would I need fatter tubes also?

*should be noted that the tyres already on the 27" rims are slicks or near enough and are falling apart due to being  left out in the weather for many years.


texts: Protecting gadgets against rain during touring

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When carrying laptop / camera around I'm always stressed out when it starts raining. Living in a city one can easily avoid rain though - but on a long touring trip there will inevitably be cases when you have to bike through rain.

What's the safest way to protect gadgets (laptop, camera + lenses, phone, ...) from rain during a long bike trip? What kind of bag would give me complete peace of mind? Or should I just put them in a backpack and wear a good raincoat over the backpack? Anyone else biked with gadgets during rain?


texts: I am very new to this thread and seeking help from an experienced bike enthusiast. I just purchased the aforementioned bike in the title and after bringing it home for inspection(bought brand new from a shop mid NYC which doesn’t allow entry)I noticed a scratch/marking behind the seat post. I was advised to take the seat post out to inspect the inner area to see if it’s structural damage. I will post pics below. My question is this going to bite me in the behind later down the road or should I take it back. No bike shops had this anywhere so I had to drive an hour plus each way to find it. Thanks in advance , I may have botched the format.


texts: When shifting both left and right shifters, what's the preferred sequence?

texts:
My technique has always been "easier, then harder".  When switching to the big chain ring, I first downshift at least twice on the right (easier) and then upshift on the left (harder).  When switching to the small chain ring, I first downshift on the left (easier) and then upshift at least twice on the right (harder).  I find this technique effective because it maintains my cadence and prevents loss of momentum in my legs, especially important when switching to the big chain ring.

Does my technique hold water?


texts:
I just purchased a cruiser bike online that I had to assemble.

When I rode it for the first time, I notice my pedals felt shaky, whether pedaling or coasting, and when I did pedal every few seconds they made a crack/pop.  I don't feel anything abnormal when this happens.

Turned the bike over, and I noticed the chain shakes too. It is tight, but the wheel looks as if it is up as far as it can go- it looks like if I adjusted it further to loosen the chain, I'd be at risk of it falling off.

I opened up the wheel sprocket- no broken ball bearings

Does any one know why this is happening, and if its an easy fix or defective bike that I need to return?


texts: Heavier Thicker Chains and Gears for Winter due to Salt?

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I have two bikes: one having gear-things outside and one with inner-hub. The gear-outside-bike has suffered a lot due to the salt during this winter, the other hilariously looks like a new one. I noticed that some XC bikes have very thick chains and the metal used in chain is different, a owner told me that he changed to a thicker chain during winter. I am planning to do similar upgrade to my salted chains that salt has destroyed during the winter and perhaps to gears as well -- actually I must change everything at once because leaving destroyed gear-round-things would destroy new chain pretty quickly (heard this from an engineer). So:

What should I look in chains and the gears for winter?
When switching to larger gear-round-things and thicker chains, are there some special restrictions?

I have currently (3x9, 3 front and 9 back) gears.


texts: Does tightening a QR skewer in different ways affect wheel alignment?

texts:
Logic tells me no, but if I refit my disc brake wheel and the disc is rubbing slightly on the caliper, if I undo the QR lever, tighten the nut on the other side clockwise and loosen the QR the same amount anticlockwise, then push closed the QR lever again it can correct the rubbing, i.e. it shifts the wheel slightly to one side.
Am I imagining it, or is that a recognised thing of how QR mechanisms work?


texts: Why are there a large number of businesses that do not allow bicycles in the drive through?

texts: What are some reasons that business owners choose to prevent cyclists from using the drive-thru?  Are there legal issues?


texts:
Are there any advantages of S shaped down tubes over the traditional ones on MTB?

For example: what do you think of this design?

Jamis Exile Comp 2013


texts: Schwinn Johnny Pro Stationary Loud Noise Near Sprocket

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I have an older Johnny Pro.  All of a sudden it began making a loud noise, like a bang, from the area near the sprocket. this occurs approximately every 1.5-2 revolutions of the pedals.

I have investigated, but cannot pinpoint the problem.  It may be that the bearings/washers/whatever between the sprocket and the body of the bike are worn.  I tightened the bolts at the base of the pedal, hoping that would do the trick, but no.  I then removed the bolts, trying to disassemble the sprocket connection, but I can't figure out how to take it apart; nothing moves.

Looking at it from above, it appears that the sprocket wobbles a bit and that there is an uneven space where the bearings are.  I still cannot tell exactly from where the noise originates; my daughter thought it was when the chain was trying to right itself on the crooked sprocket.


texts: Some time ago, I bought a used Giant full suspension MTB.  The guy cut the original seatpost too short for me, so I needed a new one.  The post was some weird size, either 31 or 31.1 mm.  Closest I could find was a 30.9.  (Isn't that the standard?)  Needless to say this kept on sliding down as I rode.  I stuck a small strip of metal between the post and frame -- yeah, I know you're not supposed to do that! -- but it still slowly creeps down (about 5 mm every couple hours).  I checked eBay and Giant's web site, to no avail.  Anyone know if I can find one somewhere?  Or anyway to fix it?  (Its amazing how hard it is to slide the post up and down with that homemade "shim" in it, and how hard I tighten up the clamp -- surprised it hasn't broke yet -- yet it STILL slides down!)


texts:
I'm 250 lbs and have been riding for about three months now to lose weight. During my rides I always feel like I am sliding forward on my seat. Because of this I never feel like I'm sitting on my seat and whenever I rest I usually end up supporting myself by standing on one pedal or the other.

Because of this (I think) my hands and feet go numb. This happens about 20 minutes into my ride. Different types of terrain don't seem to matter. Then it becomes a game of shaking out my hands and feet to get the blow flow back until the end of the ride which is usually an hour. I'm getting to the point where I am ready to increase my ride duration, but the pain in my feet and hands concern me. I initially thought it was just my body getting used to the bike, but now I'm not so sure.

I've tried moving my seat forward and backwards with the same result. I've tried adjusting the nose of my seat upwards, but it caused a worse pain in a much more delicate area. I have bought gloves with thick padding which helped a little, but not much. I went to my local bike shop and bought the pedals and shoes. The new shoes caused me even more pain than the sneakers I had been wearing. The shop owner asked me to pedal on my bike for a while so he could watch me and he didn't see anything abnormal thought he is not a fit specialist.

My last hope is to go to a specialist for a real bike fit, I'm just anxious about spending more money for them to tell me I've been riding the wrong bike, wrong shoes, wrong seat. Everyone I talk to gives me the look like they don't have any idea what I'm talking about when I mention it. Could it be that I am just that out of shape?

Edit for additional information:

I'm 5'11 and I'm riding a specialized 56cm road bike (pic). I do wear bike shorts and I have gotten over the initial saddle soreness phase and my sit bones don't have any discomfort compared to my feet and hands. I ride currently with my saddle horizontal. I get the sensation that my sit bones want to slide forward and straddle the skinnier part of the seat. I have tried just going a long with it during one ride, sliding forward. This resulted in my tailbone being extremely sore for a week.


texts: Inner tube - series of dot marks and a puncture, what has caused it?

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This is on the outside of the tube.  There is a series of small dots marks about 1-2mm apart, and one of them has turned into a puncture.

I've felt around the inside of the wheel, and the inside of the rim.  Everything feels normal.

I thought maybe the inner tube had turned, and the spoke had poked through, but the marks seem too close together to be caused by the spikes.

Anyone got any ideas?  I'm wondering if its safe to just put another tube in?


texts: First time to install Clincher Tire to Rim

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I am a beginner here.  I am installing for the first time my own tire and want to make sure I have a basic issue down.  I have a new set of Fulcrum carbon clincher wheels.  Basic question here....I do NOT need to use any type of tape correct on the wheel do I?  Being a carbon wheel there is obviously no spoke holes that are exposed to the tube.  So I assume no tape is needed for this type of clincher.  I just put on the tire and tube and good to go?
Also, any other basic advice anyone has I would welcome again as this is the first time I'm actually doing this myself.
Thanks in advance.


texts: Bottom bracket length without knowing front chainline (fixed gear)

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I'm wondering if I can find the right bottom bracket axle (or spindle, whatever it's called) with knowing my crank model (Gipiemme Dual Sprint, Velobase says BB should be 113mm) and rear chainline (I think 47mm, I can measure exactly with caliper).

As far as I know I have to use Campagnolo BB's with Gipiemme cranks and I can only order them online from where I live. I don't want to have to send back, order another and on and on ;)


texts: Pedals rotate backwards when I move the (rear) wheel in reverse direction

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I recently bought a bicycle and am new to biking. So I decided to try it out on an inclined part of the road near my home. as I descended on the incline just after travelling a few metres I heard a clink sound from the chain system. Naturally I braked at once and decided to check but I could not find anything visibly wrong.

However as I headed back home to further check for something I noticed that whenever I move my rear wheel opposite to its usual direction of motion the pedals started to move opposite to their natural direction of rotation. How can I fix this?


texts:
I have a set of tubular Continental Sprinter Gatorskin (28" x 22mm) that have been sitting in the box on the floor for close to four years.  They look fine, but I'm worried that they won't last long if I mount them.  Should I get new tires?

Some extra information: I have an iron-distance triathlon soon and my rear tire popped today.


texts: Changing a cassette and adjustments after

texts: I just changed my cassette from a 32 to a 34. All is good but on the big sprocket in the front it will not change properly on the big sprocket on the rear. On the small sprocket on the front it will shift good onto the big big sprocket on the rear. What am I missing? Adjustment or a longer chain?


texts: holes on the inside of metal fork blades, what are they

texts: I noticed there are two very small holes on both blades on my new fork. They are on the inner side of the blades at the end of the fork blade just above wheel axis mounting point. They are apparently designed to put there because they are at the same position and holes are smooth and no damage. So what the purpose of these holes? I noticed that my old fork also got similar holes, which I never noticed before.


texts: How to tell if this light's bulb is blown? And what kind of light is it?

texts: See photo. Is this a normal LED? I'm trying to troubleshoot it and can't tell if the bulb\diode is fine.


texts: Widest tyre you can safely fit on 700c wheel (17mm rim width)

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I am riding a no-suspension hybrid with rigid reinforced fork and 700c wheels.
I go on touring trips with very flexible itinerary. I stay on gravel/tarmac/trail 80% of the time but occasionally I like to link parts of the tour by going off-road or on rough trails.

I currently run 700x35C touring tires and I am very pleased with their performance on good surface. However I would like to get some oversized (preferably foldable) tires that I can pack when touring and put on for a day or two during the tour when necessary. Here are some cases from my recent trips when my 35c's felt "not enough" and I wish I had wider tire:

Here are few details:

Rims are WTB 700C
Rim inner width measures just under 17mm
I currently run 700x35C
Disc brakes, so brake assembly will not be a limiting factor
Frame and fork will not be an issue as well (both look like they could accommodate 55+ size and still have plenty of clearance)

Rim inner width:

Ample tire clearance (pictures taken with Schwalbe Marathon Plus 35c tire in place):

Sheldon Brown says I should not go above 37mm...
Yet I know that this bike came from the manufacturer with 47c continentals fitted...

Any advice is appreciated. I would like to hear not only what is OK for this particular case but also what are general considerations. How does one decide when tire is too wide and unsafe.

UPDATE:

Additional problem that I am facing is that it is hard to find wider 700c tires. For gravel / hybrid tires advertised as 700c sizes go from 25mm up to 37mm.

For mountain bikes (29 inch wheel) sizes begin at 2.25 inches which is approx 57mm.

There appears to be a gap between 37mm and 57mm and it is very rear that one come across a tire that falls in that gap category. Or am I not looking for a right thing?


texts:
My bike has a 175mm crank arm (https://www.sram.com/en/truvativ/models/fc-styl-6k-b1) on a Specialized Epic HT (https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Specialized/Epic-Hardtail-Expert,27186)
I think the important words are (don't know their meaning): boost, threaded, dub,
Now I want to try shorter arms 170 and even 165. Since I don't know exact length I'd like, I'd like to try cheaper ones if I can, try them first and buy a more expensive one once I decide the arm length.
I read DUB cranks are compatible with any existing BB (https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/product_news/sram-dub-370517). What I want to know is if dub BB is compatible with non-dub cranks?  Otherwise my options are pretty limited to SRAM cranks it seems.


texts: Is it difficult for one person to ride a tandem bike?

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About 4 miles away from me, there is a bike hire shop that has tandems. I'm trying to work out the logistics of getting the tandem to my house to pick up the other rider.

I'm an experienced cyclist, but have never ridden a tandem before. It's not convenient for both of us to go to the shop. Is riding a tandem particularly difficult for one person?

I suppose I'll get the bus there...


texts:
I got very frustrated when shopping for bicycle bottle holders because I almost wasn't able to find thick ones (ie, larger, longer, or higher capacity). I just found some and immediately ordered them, hoping they will turn out okay. But why was this so difficult?
I keep seeing pictures and videos of cyclists putting 3 bottle holders on the frame between their legs, and sometimes I even see bikes with 4 bottle holders somehow fitted to the fork. Clearly, tourers are not content with fitting one or two bottles to their bikes, 500 ml or 950 ml (the largest I was able to find in a brick&mortar store) each.
So why are virtually all bicycle bottles so small, especially given that tourers basically live on their bikes and that cycling is a sport that really makes people sweat? I get that they cannot be super long because otherwise they wouldn't fit in the frame, but why are all the bottles 7 cm in diameter, not like 10 cm? That'd be more than double the volume at the same height and if you can fit a 950 ml bottle and a 500 ml bottle inside a normal frame, that increase would get you to 3 liters.
I never did touring and plan to start my first tour soon. I only ever did daily trips and carried big bottles in my backpack. But someone told me that carrying a backpack is a terrible idea when touring. So if there are problems I'm running into by going for big bottles, please tell me.


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How to Prevent Cramping

I get cramps in my feet and calves while riding.  I was told eating bananas and taking electrolyte pills would help.  Once the cramping starts is it too late?  How long does the benefit of the bananas or pills to make an impact?


texts: TRP HY-RD brake pistons won't retract to take new pads

texts: I'm replacing pads on my TRP Hy-Rd brakes. These are cable actuated hydraulics. Using tire levers, wrenches, etc. I have not been able to push the two pistons far enough apart to fit the rotor between the pads. I can move one piston, but the other follows, so there's no increase in the gap. I've tried pushing the pistons apart both with and without the old pads in place. Not having any luck. Any suggestions?


texts: disc brakes start squealing after just a bit of use

texts:
The rear disc brake on the Jitsie Varial 24" Hybrid that I recently got (for Christmas, so about two weeks ago) started squealing and losing its power. This was also a problem on the hardtail mtb that I was riding on before.
I've cleaned the rotors with isopropyl alcohol, sanded down the brake pads, and bedded them in by riding around my neighborhood and slightly pulling the brake lever. This would fixed the squealing noise and loss of power for about a day then it would come back. When that didn't work, I tried replacing the brake pads. That would fix it for slightly longer, but it would still come back after maybe a week.
I have tried to be very careful about not contaminating the pads. I haven't washed my bike with anything yet, and I wear rubber gloves when touching the rotor. Before riding trials I never had any issues with squealing brakes. Is it normal for that to happen continually and after such a short period of time? If not what could be the problem? I did notice that both bikes were running Shimano B01S Resin Brake Pads. I'm not sure if that could be a problem.


texts: Brake levers for riding in upright position

texts: I'm trying to find out the correct name for the brake levers that are on a bike so that you can ride in a nearly upright position?  I had an old Schwinn 10 speed that not only had the regular brake levers on the drop down handlebars, but it also had a set so you use them when you're riding in an upright position? I'm hoping someone can tell me what they're called from my vague description?  Thanks


texts:
For all my life I have noticed that I always cycle in the highest gear (most of my bikes had at least 3x7, so it wasn't a lack of options) whilst most serious cyclists cycle on relatively low gears and are spinning like crazy from my perspective. Now, I get that taste definitely plays a role in these kind of things, but what I would love to know is whether serious cyclists learn to cycle in lower gear consciously or whether "it's just me" that loves cycling in a style where I move my legs as little as possible.

I realize this question is fairly broad and I hope the answer is fairly clear cut, but just to be fair it could theoretically be split up in:

Is there something bad about a cycling style in relatively higher gears?
What causes such a cycling style in the first place?

But I will keep it as a single question as those things are I believe extremely closely related.


texts: Where can I go to change the vertical drop out for a horizontal drop out?

texts: I have an aluminum road bike frame that I want to use to build a fixed gear. My problem with this frame is that it has vertical drop out and no derailleur hanger. Fr


texts:
Can anyone ID my bike. I was given it about 25 years ago. I think it is a 1993 Cannondale M series frame. I only found one number on the bike 02007902204. It has Shimano XT components with RapidFire shifters and a Manitou 3 front suspension fork.  Any help would be great.

[![enter image description here][7]][7]

[7]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTDMW.jpg


texts: Friction-shift (rear) always changing up the gears

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I have an old french touring bike (from the 70s or 80s) with downtube friction shifters.

I recently had it serviced, and ever since there's been a constant pressure on the rear gears which means they have a propensity to shift into the highest gear. If I shift into a lower gear and let go of the shifter, the chain works it way back up the gears. I can generally maintain being in the second highest gear (which is the one I use most often) but it still requires periodic movement of the shifter as it moves its way forward.

It's possible that before the service the mechanism just wasn't lubricated enough for this to happen.

Does anyone know what's causing it and how I can fix it? I'm afraid I'm pretty much a beginner.


texts: Convert urban/hybrid with hydraulic disk brakes from flat handlebars to drops

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I have a urban style bike that I want to convert from flat bars to drops.

Can anyone suggest brake levers that:

will be compatible with the BR-M355 calipers that came with the bike
will be compatible with the hoses fitted to the bike
are of standard brake hood construction and can be used as a comfortable hand position on drops (i.e. I'm not looking to somehow bodge installation of MTB levers)
are easily available in the UK
are not crazy expensive (< £200)
don't involve/require a cable to hydraulic conversion mechanism

Ideally, I'd prefer the levers don't include an  derailleur gear shift mechanism, because the bike has an Alfine hub, for which I'll make separate provision for shifting. However, provided any derailleur shift system can be left disconnected without impacting comfort and braking performance, I could live with it.

If I absolutely have to, I could replace the levers, hoses, calipers and disks, but I'd rather not spend the money replacing the whole brake system if I can get away with only replacing the levers.

I understand the geometry of drops on this bike might not be ideal, and some may feel I would be better off simply replacing this bike with a road bike. That's not an option for me, and neither is owning a second bike.

Thanks!


texts: How can I protect cables in inclement weather?

texts:
I cycle year round, in Maine. It is pretty much guaranteed my brakes and shifter cables will need replacement in the spring, even if I try to maintain and clean the bike after each ride.  Does anyone have any tips or tricks for protecting cables?

(The road salt, or whatever it is, seems to kill the cables, and yeah, I totally remember a time when cables would last a couple seasons, before the advent of what ever is going on the roads now.)


texts: Where to get the short wire of the cantilever brake?

texts: I was riding my bike and rear brake fell apart. As a result I lost the short wire of the cantilever brake, or at least that what it seems to be called. Where can I buy that short cable please ? Here is the same piece of the front brake:


texts: What size is the tiny ball bearing used in SRAM rim-brake caliper quick release detents?

texts:
SRAM road rim-brake calipers (mine are specifically Rival from 2011) have a quick release lever to facilitate wheel changes, as many calipers do.  The SRAM QR lever has detents which make a little "click click click" noise and feeling as you rotate them.  Today I found out how that detent works, and wish I hadn't.

You see, I was replacing the M4x6 button-head screws on the QR "axle", as they were quite rusty (see SRAM Rival brake caliper screws/bolts are rusty, how to replace?).  I had unscrewed one of them a couple weeks ago to check the screw size, ordered the screws, and now had them in hand.  When I unscrewed the second one, I heard a little "ping" as something fell down on the floor.  I searched around for it, and behold, it was a tiny ball bearing!

So in the process of opening up the first brake a couple weeks ago, I'm sure the ball popped out of it, and the floor has been vacuumed since then so goodbye.

The question is: can someone tell me what size the ball bearing is?  I can tell you it's roughly 1-2mm, but I don't have sufficiently precise equipment to measure it.  Bonus points for a link to purchase replacements (in small quantities!).

As an aside, this design seems comically bad: they use a screw which for some reason is more prone to rust than any of the others in the groupset, and when you unscrew it there is this tiny metal ball sitting on a tiny metal spring waiting to eject it from the assembly.  It's no wonder why they don't call out these parts in the service manual!


texts:
I live in Portland, Oregon and I need a bike to ride to work. It's about five miles, with one steep but not long hill. I used to have a track bike with a freewheel that was really nice for Salem, which was a flat commute. Sadly stolen. I loved how fast it accelerated, it helped a bunch in traffic. Hills were killers on my knees, ouch.

Was thinking about maybe two or three gears. But as a cassette in back would make it less snappy off the line, I was imagining a front derailleur only. Is that implausible? Maybe having a chain tensioner at all would kill any snap. Do they make a Hammerschmidt for road bikes? Are there any frames designed for this?

Frame something closer to a racing geometry than a touring geometry, since I won't be taking many long rides, if any.

Also, weight, like to keep it not much over 20lbs. So, not a hybrid frame.

Disc brakes I am in love with from years of mountain biking, and would help control and maintain stopping power in this rainy climate; I don't know how heavy the road discs are however.

So.. a track bike with disc brakes and a front derailleur? Start with a cyclocross? Is there the perfect bike out there already made? Am I nuts? Any ideas?

Thanks!

Edit, to respond to comments:

What I mean by "snappy" - I found that using a super tight chain on a single back ring lets me apply speed faster than one where i have to take up slack first - i can make quicker adjustments to unaware cars. It's the same reason that I like disc brakes, more control.

Sorry if my experiences and desires bother some of you, that wasn't my intent. I follow all the bike laws and ride politely.

@mattnz Thanks for that suggestion, I will look at internal hubs again. A few years ago I looked at Rohloff's but I decided they weren't a good choice, mostly due to weight and ease of maintenance, but it appears that they have updated their lines quite a bit. I think SRAM has one too. Still be heavy I think which would add to angular momentum. There are also the Schlumpf Speed Drive planetary front cranksets.


texts:
The V-brake pads are creaking when the wheel is still and I press the lever. (I.e. not a duplicated of this question, because they don't creak when trying to stop the rolling wheel.)
What could be the reason?
Some thoughts of mine:

I don't think the absence of "toe-in" counts in this case, because the wheel is still, and hence there can be no resonance. (If I understand correctly that's what toe-in achieves: prevents the pad bouncing on and off the rim while it is rotating.)

A similar creaking happened to me once, when the brake pad was rubbing on the tire, but upon close inspection this seems not to be the case now (as far as I can tell, the two are not touching.)

If I loosen the pads, the creaking stops (so I think it is not some other part of the system, which causes the noise, e.g. calipers not being lubricated at the point where they rotate).

When trying to stop the rolling wheel, I don't hear the noise (but maybe it is just so subtle, that it is covered by the other subtle noises the bike is making).

I captured the noise in this video:


texts:
I try to insert back the fork in my bicycle. When I was removing it, after unscrewing everything the fork didn't come off by itself, I had to pry and remove aluminium ring which was the last element holding fork in place. Ok, so far so good, I am putting everything back now and the question is how to insert this ring tightly so it would hold fork in place exactly like before?

This is GCN video which has pretty much the same elements: How To Change Your Road Bike Headset and Forks however note they slid down this ring (silver one, exactly as I set the time at) without inserting it tightly so there is space visible and the fork would fall off if not held from the bottom.

Prying it off was quite easy, because I could do this in one point (gap in the ring) but now, when inserting when I try to push it down in one place the opposite side goes up.


texts: My santa cruz heckler ghost shifts from frame flex. Is there anything I can do?

texts:
I just bought a 2013 heckler used and found that it ghost shifts under heavy pedaling. I weight 230 so I am probably putting more pressure than average. But this only happens when I have smallest cog in front and largest and 2nd largest in back, fairly common gear ratios for a MTB.

My shifter cable housing runs all the way through to the derailleur and my LBS just changed the cassette and chain. I can physically see my rear wheel shift slightly off center when I apply a lot of pressure to my pedal while keeping the brakes on. I think this is the root cause, but don't know what to actually do about it. I don't think there's any damage to the rear triangle that I can see.

I'm also wondering if a bent hangar could play a role. I had a branch jam up in my hanger and it ripped it off and snapped the little metal hanger attachment. But I really think the derailment is coming from the top vs from the bottom. As in, I've caught the bike mid skip, and you can see the chain where it leaves the derailleur is in the correct spot, but above it the chain is 3-4 cogs below where it should be.

Any help is appreciated. This issue is sullying an otherwise amazing bike.


texts: Trouble getting the right cup and cone hub adjustment

texts:
I have a pair of Shimano XT wheels and recently had issues with the hub on the rear wheel requiring new cones and bearings. These were fitted carefully but I've had issues getting the right adjustment tightening the cones.

On the one hand I can tighten it to a point which effectively prohibits rotation, and there is no play. But to get the hub to anything close to a smooth rotation I get a tiny amount of play. I have experimented extensively and cannot find any way to balance not having any play with having smooth rotation - in context smooth means turning cleanly, I realise there may be some friction, particularly with new parts. Conversely when I loosen so there is just a hint of movement I get very smooth rotation.

I've been testing with very small increments in tightness - probably around 3 degrees at a time.

The only thing I can think of is that I've used a general purpose grease rather than a hub bearing specific one, but I would expect that to be a difference between degrees of smoothness, rather than the difference between working and not working.

Can anyone provide any tips or suggestions as to how to address this?

Many thanks


texts: Front dérailleur does not shift into largest chainring

texts:
I have a Shimano ST-EF60-8R shifter with a Shimano FD3303 front derailleur - it does not go into 3rd gear which is the largest; it feels like the wire is going to pop. I just bought the bike, a Trek 1000, which runs great otherwise.

I've tried adjusting according to YouTube videos (not hard at all) but I can't seem to get the adjustment to be able to shift into all 3 gears. Is it a mismatch?


texts: Why are bearing ball sizes measured in imperial units?

texts:
Most everything on a modern bicycle is built to metric measurements - see, for example this question. Major exceptions include bearing balls, where metric balls don't even merit mention on Sheldon's site. This results in some wacky mixed engineering, like cones that are precision manufactured to metric measurements, apart from a race curve that is precision manufactured to an imperial radius.

What is the history behind this? Why wasn't there a Continental European standard that caught on after metric became almost universal? Even French bikes from the seventies, which have metric versions of everything else, use imperial bearing balls. I guess the same question could be asked about the pedal pitch mentioned this question, but I'm guessing that's because the Brits came up with reverse threading first.


texts: Degreaser and oil recommendations for Nexus 8

texts:
Morning!

i read a few articles about how to clean and lube the nexus 8, but i didnt found a good degreaser here i can leave my internal hub inside for a hour at least to breakdown the old grease, which degreaser i should to use?
After i would like to do the bath dunk with Shimano Oil but it is a quite expensive for 1L (£64), is any one can recommended a good oil and cheaper?

thanks


texts: Can replacing the bearings on a hub untrue a wheel?

texts:
Backstory: I've never paid so much attention to my bike.

I recently bought the wrench that allows me to take my axle off, so that's what I did.  After cleaning the parts/bearings and replacing the grease, I put it back together.  I put the wheel back on the bike, and spin it to make sure everything works.

The wheel spins, but there is an amount of untrueness that I wasn't aware of before.  I know that I put all of the bearings in, and the nuts are as even as I can tell by looking.  They might be a little tight, as I'm hearing a bit of clicking.

So, is it possible that the changes I made untrued the wheel, or is it most likely that the wheel was already untrue, and I'm just noticing it now?

(is it "untrue", or "untru")


texts: 1970s era Huffy 3 speed Sea Trails chain

texts:
How do I know what size chain fits this bike? Which chain should I purchase?

Thanks,

Mike


texts: Di2 front ring drop down when going uphill

texts: Di2 ultegra front ring drop down when going uphill. No pressure is applied on shifters.  System works just fine on flat sections. What could be a problem?


texts: Can I replace a Shimano FC-MT500 26/36 crankset with a Shimano Ultegra FC-R8000 36/46 set?

texts:
On my Kross Level 10.0 MTB (2x10) used mostly on dirt roads and pavement I find I never use 1-10 and seldom go below 15th but I need more top end speed. Wondering if the Ultegra would be a straight swap out?

Thanks!


texts:
Since a while my racing bike seems to have delopped a little crackling noise in my headset. I thought servicing the headset bearings might be a logical first step. Unfortunately, when I opend it up I don't seem to be able to access the bearing themselves. It seems like it is a zero stack headset with loose bearings, but I cannot remove the upper race, even with some force since it seems covered by some washer:

I've tried googling a bit and it seems a bit similar to the bearing described in this post. However, I don't see an easily removable circlip in my situation.

Does anyone have any idea how I would be able to remove this race to access and service the bearings? Many thanks in advance!


texts:
I am in the verge of buying an Argon18 E-114.

Can anyone please advise me as to whether it is a track or a triathlon bike?

Looking at the hub spacing on the rear and the bb height it seems to be a track bike. The seller says it is a tri bike.


texts: Shifter won't click and cable doesn't move

texts:
My front gear is set on the smallest gear then the shifter suddenly doesn't click. I also see no cable movement from the front derailleur.
Here is the link for the vid: https://imgur.com/ZncNh70


texts:
So, I'm 6'8".  I have a 36" inseam, and wear a dress shirt with a 37" sleeve.  I'm 220 lbs.

Is there a chart anywhere online showing bicycle geometry across brands, with data on 64cm-or-larger road frames?

Going to a random local bicycle shop is nigh useless. They have a strong financial interest to sell a brand they already stock, so I need some data on brands to choose the right LBS.
I know a custom builder can just do this, but that's not the question.


texts:
I have an old Trek mountain bike with a "Traditional" handlebar stem (Quill stem?) and I've suddenly become unable to adequately tighten the stem to a) remain in line with the wheel and b) stop the handlebars from being pulled clean out of the steering tube.

I've tried taking the stem out of the tube and there was a thin coating of rust over all the surfaces. I cleaned it all off with a wire brush and went inside the steering tube as best I could. This never had any significant effect.

It is not possible to tighten the nut any more yet the "wedge" no longer seems to generate enough friction to grip the forks. What can be causing this and what can I do to fix it?

EDIT In response to the question by ChrisH, here is a photo showing the wedge properly displaced from the stem as I understand it is supposed to work.


texts: Which is ideal road-bike size for a person with height 5'9.5"?

texts: I am 5'9.5" and in seam length between legs is 33 inch. What is the optimium frame size?


texts:
I am not a pro and I have never taken a long bike trip before, but I think I am up to it. The trip is not going to be one-go. I'll stop for rest. I am thinking that if I do 10 miles a day, I should be at my destination in two weeks.

I really need help with the following:

Do I need to put myself through easier challenges/trainings before I embark on my planned trip?
What food and equipment do I need?
I am travelling in between two cities in Mississippi. What should I be wary of? Or what can I expect?

Really, any help will greatly appreciated!


texts: XT 11 speed derailleur (RD-M8000-GS) rubbing 46T cog with b-screw all the way in?

texts:
I've broken my rear derailleur so I've decided to upgrade from my 2x10 to a 1x setup. For that, I've initially bought:

Deore XT 11 speed derailleur RD-M8000-GS (I've read it can work with 10s, but indexing is not the problem now).
MSC 10 speed 11-46 cassette (I may change this by an 11 speed, same range. See below*).
30T chainring, a chain, and I'm keeping my old 10s Deore shifter (guess these aren't relevant).

My problem is regarding range. It looks like the derailleur wont climb to the 46T cog, even though:

By the spec, it supports 11-46 in 1x setup.
The b-screw is all the way in.
My hanger looks like a direct mount (goes back and outside) and the derailleur is installed as so (no extra link).

* I understand a 10s cassette is not the same as an 11s, but I guess that the biggest cog (46T) is the only one that is in the same position (flush to the base of the hub), so I fear if I buy an 11s cassette (and an 11s shifter) I'll have the same issue.
What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance!


texts: Play in the suntour front suspension of my raleigh hybrid bike, what exactly is the problem? can i repair on my own?

texts:
I have a Raleigh Misceo 700c bike, and recently I can feel some play in the front suspension. At first I thought it was from the headset, so I did some adjustment by tightening the screw on the top area of headset but the problem is still there. After keen observation I came to know that there is some movement in the suspension area. Bottom legs are giving slight movement against the top one which create slight play while applying front brake and also while crossing over a bump. So what exactly is the problem? can I repair it on my own?

Yes, the play is front and back. And it is at the point where upper and lower legs meet. Suspension is Suntour nex sf14


texts: Gears playing up after a chain replacement

texts:
I had used my bike for about a year and thought it was about time to replace the chain. The old chain started to skip links, but only sometimes.
I got the right chain from my local bike shop, I sized it up using my old chain, so it should have been the right length.
I put it on, however, now I got problems with shifting my gears (especially to lighter gears). Before the  chain replacement I didn't have problems with shifting between the gears.
It also sometimes skips links.
Does anyone know what might be the problem?
Thanks,
K


texts: What are the considerations before buying a Full Suspension bike (India)?

texts:
I am planning on buying a new Full-Suspension Bike withing few months specially to use in hilly terrain.  So far I've been to few hills around my home town, they are roughly 100-400 meters high.

What technical and geographical aspects should I consider while purchasing full suspension bike?

Full suspension bikes are very costly here in my country and not many use them also I am confused which one to go for. Full-suspension or proper downhill?

Activities I do on my current hard-tail is lots of small drops (up to 2-2.5 feet) staircases are normal. I want to do more longer jumps, up to several feet.  I also want to do a little more aggressive downhill. I want a bike which is easy and affordable to maintain.


texts: Options for a super-compact crankset for touring (replacing Shimano 105 crankset)

texts:
I plan to use my new Canyon Endurace AL (11-34, 52/36) for some touring and I'd like some slightly more pleasant gears as I'll be carrying some weight (I have a tailfin rack I'm using with it) up some hills.
My ideal setup would be buying a 46/30 crankset for around £100-£150 which I could just swap in when touring (a couple weeks a year) (readjusting the front derailleur of course) and swap out when doing normal riding (95% of the year). I realise I'd also probably need to swap over the chain or shorten it each time.
Are there any such 46/30 or 48/31 cranksets that would work with a 105 setup and standard Shimano BB? I wouldn't want to change the BB over each time. I saw the RX600 but assume this would need a new FD as well due to the chainline difference. Are there any hacks to make it work? Are there any parts in Shimano's lineup that could help - I don't mind if it's not perfectly permitted by Shimano, just need it for a couple weeks a year really.
If not, I guess my options are just to switching the chainrings down to 50/34 - a small decrease of about 6% vs 17% for 46/30 but better than nothing. Would that be just a case of buying two new chainrings and installing them?


texts: Determining front & rear derailleur compatibility

texts:
I have a 2009 Kona Dew and I'm just wondering how to figure out what front and rear derailleurs are compatible with my bike.

Do I just have to find a matching Shimano part that fits 8-speed gearsets? It seems like most of the front derailleurs at Jenson USA seem to support 9-speed only, same goes with the rears too.


texts: Does having machined brake surface on rims matter?

texts:
I'm looking at getting a wheelset with disc hubs and rim brakes to run on my disc and non-disc cross bikes. There are stock wheels that have velocity a23 rims, which are a poupular rim brake compatible rim. However, the stock wheelset tend not to have machined brake surfaces.

Is not having a machined brake surface a problem?
Does it matter whether the rim is painted or anodized?

Update:

It seems like some old heads seem to think that a machined sidewall was a marketing gimick made to stop brake squeal on new showroom bikes. Rivendell sell a lot of rim brake wheels without a machined surface.

Jobst Brandt via Sheldon Brown:
http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/machined-rims.html

Rivendell (probably via Grant Peterson)
http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=52


texts: Is it worth swapping MTB front forks/wheel to ISO 584/27.5" from ISO559/26"?

texts:
Is there going to be some roll over benefit? how about getting up to speed?

I'd be using it at mount stromlo in Australia, everything except the black downhill...

EDIT: I am specifically talking about the rim size, assuming that there would be the same tire width/depth. So therefore a larger rolling circumference on the front than the back

Currently has a SRAM XO - 1 x 10 (11:32 cassette), front & rear brakes etc


texts: 11 speed shifter levers on my 10 speed drivetrain

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Currently my Ultegra 6700 (10speed) shifters won’t shift anymore and I planned to buy a new shifter lever.
I’m planning to replace it with Shimano 105 11s shifter on my 10speed cogs and rd . Is it Okay to replace it with 11speed shifters on my 10speed bike???
Thank you for ur answers.


texts:
There are lots of questions here about back-pain, but generally about cycling in general and cycling on flat surfaces.
I am after more practical tips on avoiding back pain when cycling up hills - with gradients between 10 to 22% (moderate to steep!).
Any suggestions?
I heard regular core stretching and exercises helps with this considerably.


texts: How to adjust brake level movement on hydraulic brake?

texts:
My bicycle has Tektro Auriga hydraulic disc brakes. I can adjust how far the level stitches out with a small screw (see here, figure c2).

I was wondering if it is possible to adjust how much the brake lever can be pulled before it bites. There seems to be considerable difference between the front and rear brakes in how much pull is needed.

With V brakes that use cables, one can simply pull the cable a bit on the brake's end. Is there a simple solution with hydraulic brakes?


texts: How to accurately measure brake calipers?

texts:
So I recently bought brake calipers only to realize they didn't reach my rims. In fact they only go to about the midpoint of my tire.
The calipers are similar to these :

Did I just happen to get a weird size? Are there standard sizes for different types of bikes?
What would be the best way to figure out what size I actually need?
(All of this is assuming you don't have the old brakes to measure)


texts:
What you guys think about bike-discount.de
Has anyone had experience with this website and Radon bikes?


texts:
I'm not finding a huge amount of information online about doing a caliper (only) replacement. My rear Shimano MT500 is having issues and I urgently need to get it working, therefore I've purchased a brand new caliper of the same model.

I can't seem to find information on best practices on how to do it though.

Should this be as straight forward as draining (?) the oil from the brake system, unscrew the rear caliper from the hose, attach new caliper to the hose and run Shimano oil through the system/bleed?

Are there any gotchas to look out for? Can I expect the unscrewing the hose/attaching the hose to be a simple process?


texts: Why some companies stop supplying frames to pro teams?

texts:
Nowadays TIME hardly sponsors professional cycling teams at least with their frames, and I feel others like LOOK, De Rosa or Cervélo are also leaning away from it.

Why it happens? Do they think their reputations are already established enough and thus they don't need to promote and advertise products anymore? Or are they running out of money and can't afford to offer teams a better deal than others? Or the quality of their frame are actually inferior and they don't want to let people be aware of it?

Having nothing against companies like Specialized or Canyon, but I kinda feel sad to see multiple teams share the same bike.


texts: How much air loss over time is considered normal / acceptable for a hybrid tire?

texts:
I'm looking for a rule of thumb as to how much air loss over time is considered acceptable / normal for a hybrid tire.

Surprisingly I have not been able to find much on this upon Googling.  In this post:

How long should a road tyre hold its pressure?

Two people with road bike tires in the 110-120 psi range stated they normally lost 5-10 psi per day.  This seems high, especially if closer to the 10 psi figure.

In my particular case, I'm running 700x32mm tires and the sidewall states "Min 35 psi, Max 75 psi".  I'm currently inflating every other day to about 75 psi (perhaps slightly higher, but always under 80 psi) and I find I'm loosing about 1-2 psi per day, which seems roughly normal but I'm really not sure.

I'm using Giant tubes I got from a Giant dealer so I'm confident I'm not using poor quality tubes, and the tires are Giant branded hybrid or "gravel grinders" that are relatively tough and in good shape so I'm confident I don't have a puncture or slow leak problem (wheels/tires/tubes all OEM/stock parts on a 2017 Giant AnyRoad CoMax).

How much is considered normal?


texts: Very short-pull derailleurs designed specifically for 1x6 drivetrains?

texts:
EDIT: After some searching, it appears this type of derailleur is currently available in the form of folding bike derailleurs, such as the Shimano RD-FT35. It is a SIS 6/7 speed compact derailleur with chain capacity of 17 teeth, max cog size of 28t. As a bonus, it's very cheap. It seems to be targeted as an OEM item, and details are a bit hard to find, but appears to be perfect for this application. I ordered one to try.

Was there ever such a thing as a rear derailleur for a single chainring, but a 6 or 7 speed freewheel?

What I want is a derailleur optimized specifically for 14-28 or 14-34 freewheel, but a single chainring, and indexing compatibility doesn't matter.

The reason I ask is I fix up lots of cheap bikes that are being thrown out and make them rideable again. It's become almost a vocation at this point. In the case I get a good frame and wheels, I even try to make them nice.

I usually throw away the front derailleur and go with a single chainring, for cost and simplicity. That is, when I don't outright convert to single speed, I only keep the rear gears. I ALWAYS change to friction shifting, so compatibility is not an issue.

The common freewheels still available seem to be Shimano 6 speed 14-28 or 7 speed 14-34 "mega range" freewheels, or generic equivalent freewheels.

Since I don't need the range of chain length from multiple chainrings, this means even the 6-speed derailleurs, which are designed for 3x6/18spd gearing, are overkill in terms of chain pull, and result in a chain longer than it needs to be. At the same time, I need a derailleur that can shift onto the 28 or 35 tooth sprocket of the freewheel.

I would really like a derailleur with a shorter cage just for 3-speed to 7-speed freewheels only, with a single chainring. Are there any rear derailleurs, new or vintage, that are like this? If not, what would be the closest?


texts:
During the 2017 Tdf, Tim Wellens abandoned during stage 15 due to bad allergies and not being able to breathe.  The commentators said that his team would not "give him a waiver" to take allergy meds.

What exactly is a "waiver for medication"? Why does one need one during a major race and why would Wellens' team not give him one?

I can see how something like pseudoephedrine or a steroid could cause someone to test positive for prohibited substances in a race with strict substance rules and testing.  Is this the entire reason that he was not granted a waiver?

I would think Wellens could/should have taken something benign to help, like a benedryl, in order to continue the race.


texts: short cranks for new Brompton JIS bottom bracket

texts:
The bottom bracket on my new Brompton is this one (I believe):
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brompton-bb-cartridge-jis-for-spider-crankset-119mm-prod31207/

It is a JIS BB with 119 mm spindle length according to the description. The bike comes with 130 bcd chain ring/right crank, the crank length is 170 mm. I now want to use a shorter crank, 165 mm or shorter if available. So what cranks out there that I can use? The current crank is a single chain ring. Ideally, I want to just swap the cranks and use the current chain ring.


texts:
Im a newbie to the MTB scene, I have a trek bike that has a Shimano 175 FC-TY301 crankset. Today the pedal has come loose and flogged out one of the cranks. While I'm going, what's a good crank upgrade for this that will just go straight into the current housing without having to make any modifications.

I'm in Brisbane if that has any bearing on recommendations.(availability etc)

Cheers if you can help at all. Don't want to be buying parts and them not fitting and wasting money.


texts: Where can I buy a Cannondale saddle or parts in general for that matter?

texts:
I am using a Cannondale Topstone Sora as a roadbike.

  https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bikes/road/gravel/topstone-alloy/topstone-sora/2019

Where can I buy parts that I know will work with this bike? Cannondale doesn't seem to sell parts on their site. I've tried googling around, but am not confident in any of the results.

Based on the look of that clamp, this piece of the bike doesn't seem to reject parts that are not proprietary.


texts:
Is there any reason there are not yet LASER bicycle lights, given some cars already have them?

It makes more sense in bicycles, has they have not a 12V bulky battery like a car, and are more energy efficient than LED lights.

I am speaking about lights which directly illuminate to the front or rear, not things that project a straight line, or a bicycle or a lane on the floor?


texts: Are MIPS helmets compatible with helmet mount lights or cameras?

texts:
I've been looking to buy a new mountain bike helmet. New helmets are touting the potential benefits of MIPS slip plane technology.  However, I tend to do a lot of night riding and mount lights on both my helmet and bars.

Will using a MIPS helmet with a headlight + battery pack cause problems with the helmet while supporting the light, causing the helmet to move around on the slip plane due to the extra weight?

This would also be a reasonable question to ask about with respect to mounting a GoPro or some other camera on the helmet.


texts: San Marco Concor -- is there a "pocket" in non-cutout version?

texts:
I've read that San Marco Regale instead of having cutout implemented a relief zone (see: Regale review). So visually it is like non-cutout saddle, however something-which-works-like-a-cutout is present.

I cannot find a confirmation, that San Marco Concor (non-cutout version) also has such feature, from  technical presentation it is obvious there is some kind of "pocket" (for more foam, or for different kind of foam) exactly where the cutout comes in cutout (arrowhead) version. However what it is for?

Could someone who had such saddle in hand (personally) could confirm or deny this? I.e. the question is -- does non-cutout (non-arrowhead) version of Concor have some kind of pocket to work as some kind of cutout (relief spot)?

Usually the pocket is used as term to describe curved saddle --- but NOT here, here I use it in sense of a built-in channel, or hidden cutout.


texts: Security wheel skewers for front facing horizontal dropouts

texts:
I was looking into upgrading my current skewers to security skewers, e.g. Pitlock skewers (These are skewers which are designed so that its harder to remove a wheel without a specific key provided with the skewers).

An example is here:

(From Peter White Cycles)

My bike has horizontal dropouts, but front facing (i.e. not a track forkend, in contrast to this question).

The Pitlock FAQ states: "If you have horizontal dropouts on your bike's rear wheel (horizontal and open at the rear), we dissuade you from using the Pitlock system.

Usually (almost) all rear wheels are assembled in vertical dropouts (opening diagonally towards the bottom). Here the assembly with PITLOCK works without problems. "

They specifically highlight track-style forkends, but not horizontal dropouts which open in the front. So, can Pitlock skewers be used safely with horizontal dropouts? If so, why can they be used safely with horizontal dropouts which are front facing, but not track forkends?

An example of the dropout types is here (mine is similar to the second one from the left on the top row):

(From Sheldon Brown)

The Peter White page claims this is due to Pitlocks being unable to exert enough clamping force (similar to some aluminum QR skewers, since aluminum can't bite into the drop out enough), but Pitlocks are made from steel, so I'm still not sure why the track forkend was specifically highlighted by the manufacturer but horizontal dropouts were not.


texts:
I'm thinking about ways to put a tail light on my trailer (a B.o.B Yak). Our primary use for the trailer is carrying dogs and running errands around town – so I really like the idea of having lights that I don't have to think (much) about.

One idea would be to build a wheel with a dynamo hub, another would be to wire the trailer tail light to the dynamo on the bike. Peter White has some gold plated Supernova connectors that seem like they'd make it pretty easy to connect & disconnect.

So, the question is: could a second LED taillight (B&M Toplight or the fender mount Secula) be added in parallel with the bike's taillight? Or, are the LED lights designed to pull the same load as the older filament lights?


texts: How do I get rid of weird rubbing noise on my cx bike?

texts:
Recently I got the Giant Revolt 3 and have been riding it for a few days now. I have lately noticed that there is some rubbing noise when I apply the brakes. If you look at this picture (might be a bit hard to tell), there is a needle or some kind of gauge on top of the brake lever. When I got my bike, I believe they were in the middle, now my left one is all the way to the left, and my right is somewhat off centre. I'm not sure what they necessarily mean, but they have something to do with the brakes.

I called the bike shop where I bought this bike and they told me I would have to pay $60 for a tune up, and I don't plan to upfront that much money right now if it is an easy fix. I believe the problem is that since the bike is new, I might have to tighten up my brakes because the wires get stretched?

The brakes that are on my bike are mechanical disk brakes. If someone could tell me what might be wrong I would greatly appreciate it. I fell on my bike once because of a pot hole and scraped one side of the handle bar, but I don't think this is the cause since the needles were starting to get off centre before I fell.

Let me know if you need more information to help me out. Thanks!


texts:
Alright so I’m confused on wheel sizes on a BMX.

I just bought a BMX frame and it came with the front forks and wheel and tire, but it needs a rear wheel and tire.

The tire on the front is 20inches tall so what size wheels do I get?

Do I get 20 inch wheels or what?  I’m confused.


texts: There seem to be two heuristics for determining frame size without testing a bike: inner leg length and body height. I have an inner leg length of 85cm and a body height of 192. According to my inner leg length, I should buy a 55cm frame. According to my body height a >60cm frame. Any advice on what to do there besides testing? Intuitively, I would think that I should buy the highest frame for which I can still put the saddle in a correct position?


texts: I have a vintage Pinarello with a crooked fork

texts:
I have a vintage Pinarello road bike with a bent fork. Like if I am riding the bike and let go of the handle bars the front wheel turns to the right. Usually if you let go of the handle bars the bicycle should stay going straight.

I was wondering about replacing the fork for a better fork.
Should I just take my bicycle to the bike store?

Thanks


texts: Can you adjust your (Shimano) gear shifters to have less/more tension?  I'm frequently downshifting from high to low gear and would like to reduce the amount of finger energy required to downshift.


texts:
Shimano's HyperGlide-C (11-speed), are the hubs backwards compatible?
Can I put an 8/9/10-speed cassette on a Hyperglide-C hub?
Can I put a Hyperglide-C cassette on a Hyperglide hub?


texts: Can the SRAM Rival 1 rear derailleur be used with an 11-46T cassette?

texts:
I want to put the SRAM Rival 1 group on my next bike. Somewhere I heard that the rear derailleur can handle 11-46T cassettes despite the official documentation.
Is that true?
Are there any limitations for the chainring?


texts: Do I need to replace my rims to move up to a larger width tire?

texts: I have a 1965 Schwinn Speedster that has 26 x 1-3/8 rims and tires.i have more than enough room to run larger width tires, I'm just not sure if I need to replace rims?


texts: How do I stop my bike tires from puncturing?

texts: I recently bought a specialized Stumpjumper 29 and its only been a few weeks but I've punctured the tire four times already. I think im getting the punctures from the trees and bark on the trail but is there any type of tire that is more puncture resistant that the stock one I have right now?


texts:
I'm pretty handy with bicycles, but I'm a little stumped on this one. Have a 90s Cannondale SR800 which is solid other than the back wheel was angled to the left side of the chainstays. Ridable, but you can tell if you try to ride it without any hands. Pulled everything apart back there and discovered that the drive side (right) end of the skewer was bent.

I also double checked and when the axle sits properly all the way in the dropouts that the wheel is aligned as it should be so I'm pretty sure the frame isn't bent.

So I assume the bad behavior was due to the bent skewer. Ordered a new one. Clamped everything down, and realized that the issue is actually that the axle will shift when enough force is applied to the chain when pedaling hard.

I assumed I just needed to clamp the skewer down harder, but the same issue happened and you can hear a pop from the back of the bike when it shifts. I clamped it down a little harder and the axle movement happened again and this time bent the end of the new skewer on the right side.

The dropouts are a slightly weird design where they are angled down and forward at roughly 130 degrees.

My guess is that the bike is missing a washer or something similar on the axle that's causing it not to clamp down properly. Currently the axle is just sitting in the dropouts with no extra hardware and it seems pretty snug in there. The same amount of axle is protruding on both sides of the back hub as well and I'd say each end is covering about 75% of the dropout.

Any thoughts?


texts: Why are cycle components so heavily branded?

texts:
The average car has the manufacturer's logo on the front and back. Usually that's the extent of the branding. It is discreet and under-stated. Sometimes with the higher-end luxury cars you don't even get the model name and engine size given on the boot. A 'less is more' approach seems to work for cars.

Now take a look at a race or rally car. You get stickers everywhere to let you know who supplied the tyres, brakes, headlights, oil, petrol and other parts, e.g. what the hi-fi would be if they had one. Invariably these are sponsors logos, paid to be on the car. Sometimes boy-racer wannabees have similar sticker collections on their cars but they are rare exceptions, most cars keep the branding simple.

The same goes for the interiors, the parts do not have huge supplier names plastered all over them. There are occasional exceptions, 'GTI' models with 'Recaro' seats, forty-year old Porsche cars with 'VDO' dials and that is about the extent of it.

Now take a look at your average bicycle. Why is it a rash of tacky logos? Why does every component with the exception of a few generic parts on low-end bikes have to be disfigured by the make with model? This is particularly tedious with the big brands that get their own parts made for them. Why cannot Trek just have their logo on the frame and keep it clean? Why do they have to litter the entire 'finishing kit' with 'Bontrager' logos? It is not as if the average Trek buyer really needs to be reassured that they have 'Bontrager' stickered handlebars every time they look down to change gear. The after market for 'Bontrager' handlebars isn't exactly huge either.

So why is it that bikes have to be covered with childish logos everywhere?


texts: Is a recreational bike sufficient for a 10-hour bike trip?

texts: I am planning to go on a bike trip from Chicago to Milwaukee in the end of June. Is my Trek Allant, a recreational bike, suitable for the trip?


texts: Can FSA GOSSAMER ROAD CRANKSET be used together with BB7800 Dura Ace from Shimano?


texts:
What tire size will fit a Schwala Xero 220 rim?  Can it take any 700C tire?

I am having trouble figuring out what size tires could possibly fit this rim: http://www.formulahubs.com/en/xero/?method=detail&aid=17.  The closest I see is this rim size: 700C*20*19MM.


texts: How much to eat and drink during a 50km ride?

texts:
I want to try a 50 km ride for the first time, to be completed continuously one morning.

The most I've even done before is an 18 km (70 minute) each way commute (out in the morning and back in the evening).

When I commute I eat (breakfast, and late afternoon snack) before I ride, but I eat and drink nothing during the ride.

I guess that the difference between that and a 50 km ride is that, on the multi-hour ride, I ought to eat or drink something on/during the ride to replenish? How much should I eat and drink then, and when? Should I expect to take rest stops, and/or to go more slowly on average?

I'm wary because I think I've read that glycogen depletes at around the 2-hour mark, whereas my longest continuous ride to date has has been only 80 minutes.


texts: Upgrading a entry level hybrid bike or purchasing a new better one

texts:
I currently own a Trek Dual Sport 3 2020. I'm very happy about the versatility of the bike from a riding point of view, but also "accessorization". I'm mostly doing light trails (no jumps, but roots and loose stones) and road. I'm also planning a 800km tour — road and gravel.
But I'm not so much happy about the components. I have the impression that I'm using a bit harder that what the bike has been designed for, and would like to either upgrade it or buy a new one.
I've read many comments saying that upgrading an entry level bike is a money hole and money is better spend buying a new one, and I agree if speaking about well-defined categories or old bikes. It seems less categoric here, the options I see are:

upgrade it to better components;
buy a new bike from a similar category, but from brands that have better value for money (like Cube Nature or Giant Roam), and either resell the Trek or keep it for guests;
buy a new gravel/cross-country MTB: my main reserve is in fact that I would loose versatility: a gravel would be less capable off-road, and a cross-country less capable on-road (I'm sometimes doing the 2 in a single trip).

I have a couple of questions:
Option 1:

is "worth" spending the value of the bike in wheels and drive-train? (thinking about Mavic Allroad (S) wheels, SRAM Eagle NX/Apex drivetrain). The total cost - including the bike - would be a bit more than the highest spec'ed Dual Sport for slightly better components. My interrogation with this approach is about the suitability of the frame: if I have sturdier components and I keep using hard, there will be more fatigue for the frame.

Option 3:

is my assumption that I'll loose versatility correct? For gravels, I would think so because of the lack of suspension and the dropped handlebar. And for X-country, if I fit thinner tires and a 42T crankset, it would be possible to have a similar specs, but I noticed that for example Trek specifies that 32T cranksets are the max for their X-calibers, so it wouldn't be possible to install such cranksets. I haven't seen similar restrictions with other brands, but only a few are selling frames separately.


texts: What should downhill technical stance look like?

texts: Today I was riding a XC mountain bike down a semi-steep mountain with some big bumps and tight turns. I had me seat all the way down, was standing with knees bent, and correct stance like it should be. It worked for a little bit until I came to a turn and I felt I was leaning way too far back so I pulled myself forward to fix my stance but for some reason I went flying somewhat sideways off the bike. I was also braking a little throughout the ride but I'm pretty sure I use them correctly. What was I doing wrong? How can I prevent this. This has happened before and it's really hard to recover from while riding.


texts:
So the rear wheel (26x2) on my Electra Townie 7d broke its axle, and I ended up replacing it with a new 26x1.5 wheel, that being what the LBS had in stock. The bike seems a bit faster, which is nice, BUT I find myself cruising in sixth gear (of seven) on flat terrain, and sissy gear is no longer usable at all, even on hills -- the gear doesn't seem to bite.

Is there anything I can do about this, short of replacing the new wheel with another 26x2?


texts:
I need to find a way to easily remove the saddle on my folding bike.

Solutions from Zefal (Lock & Roll) or Pitlock/PinheadComponents/AntiVandale aren't usable because they're meant for regular bikes, where adjusting the saddle is uncommon once set, while folders require adjustment every time the bike is folded/unfolded.

I was wondering if some company made a quick-release saddle bolt, so that I could easily take the saddle with me and leave the seat post.

That doesn't prevent some ass*e to take the seatpost just "for fun", but it reduces the risk and it's a lighter alternative (seat posts on folders are bigger and heavier than on standard bikes).

Thank you.


texts:
I have been mostly lethargic for the past decade, sitting at a desk 16 hours a day. My brothers got me into mountain biking and it has been helping get me in shape. We've been doing it for about 2 months now.

Over the last month, I've noticed that after each ride, I get more and more pain around my kneecap.

There is some pain at the bottom of my kneecap, it feels like I hyper extended and pinched something, but there was no such incident that I can recall. It zapped me once while standing up doing nothing in particular after I had begin noticing it.

I also have pain around the top corners of my knee cap. It feels like muscle soreness, but I don't think there are muscles there. If Google serves me right, that's where my MCL is.

Both spots seems to just build up as I ride more and more. There wasn't any point where I had pain as though I injured either one at a particular moment, no fall, or anything like that. They just build up the more I ride.

Both are about a 2 on the 1-10 scale, but persist all day.

I don't know whether I should stop riding for a time, for risk that I did damage to something, and to let whatever it is heal. Or perhaps, on the other-hand, if riding just requires my knee to "get in shape", and this kind of pain is to be expected while my joints get used to being used again.

I've made sure my position is as right as I can. Has a few people inspect how I right, and also had a few shop keeps look at me too. Everything seems set up right. I extend my leg to where is is just bent a smidge for my saddle height. I've got the pedals under the middle of my foot.

Any insight? Is this to be expected or am I injuring myself by continuing?

More info - I'm 43 with no past injuries. They always have creaked a little more than my peers. Both knees hurt equally, although the right knee def more towards the top of the knee cap while the left is around the sides and bottom. The best I can tell with measuring tape, my legs are even length.


texts: Replacing Crankset. Do I need to replace chain? Then do I need to replace cassette?

texts:
Over the past year, my road bike's crankset has gotten pretty bent up and out of wack. Not due to abuse, just wear and tear I guess.  It's pretty bent and has a nice wobble that I can see as I look down at it while pedaling.

So I'm interested in replacing the crankset. But I've read there are various rules of thumb to follow when replacing cranksets, chains and cassettes. When you replace one you have to replace the other or something along those lines. Something about teeth wearing evenly.

Do I need to replace anything else if I replace my crankset?


texts:
So, while out riding my bike, I really dislike having a backpack on.  I have a trek luggage rack on my bicycle and would love to find something that could attach to it, capable of holding a 17" laptop, preferably in a hard case, with padding.  I would really hate to lose the laptop (or its drive stability) to a fall/crash or even just the basic road vibrations and bumps...

Has anyone seen a product like this, or potentially know a good way to build something like this? :)


texts: Is it possible to run standard mechanical shifting on a Scott Foil Premium frame?

texts:
The Scott Foil Premium is the highest end frame available from Scott Sports, and it is designed to run an electronic drive train, routed internally.

The original reports were that this frame would be available to run either a mechanical or electronic drive train, but that information appears to no longer be available.

I would like to run mechanical Campagnolo Super Record on this frame. The question is, does the frame have the necessary cable routing and cable stops for a mechanical drivetrain, or is it electronic only.

I am interested in the Foil Premium, in part because of the graphic design, but I don't want to order the frame, and then find out I can't run the drive train I want. I could play safe and order the Team Issue, but I don't like the color as well, and I may want to run electronic at some future date, so I like the flexibility of the Foil Premium, if it works.

It will likely take a physical examination of the frame to answer this question accurately.

This is the Scott Foil Team Issue, which is designed for mechanical shifting, for sure.


texts: While on a ride, realised rear disc rotor was contaminated, what could I have done?

texts:
Last night, commuting, I got lots of dirty water all over my back brake (Promax Render-r mechanical disc), as well as on most of the rest of the bike, and me. I wiped the rotors with a clean rag to get the grit off, because light braking made an unpleasant grinding sound.  This morning I was about 30km into a rather long ride when I realised I had essentially no back brake.  I don't use the back much except to hold back on descents, though I do normally take up the slack when stopping, so it was the first  decent descent when I discovered this.

I can only assume that the water was oily (certainly possible given the state of the roads and the deep puddles last night) and that I spread it evenly over the disc.

So I ended up riding 250km with essentially no back brake.  I would have tried cleaning the rotor with an alcohol sterilising wipe from my first aid kit, but they'd dried up.  I did get a bit off slowing (not stopping) power from holding the brake on all the way down long descents, and cooking it, but presumably this just moved the oil to the pads and finished them off.

I've ordered new pads (front and rear), which I needed soon anyway.  I plan to degrease the rotor, put the used front pads in the back, and see what happens.

Now I've had the chance to remove the wheel and pads, the moving pad on the rear is unevenly worn -- much more wear towards the centre of the rotor.  It was seated properly; I checked after takling the wheel off and before taking the pads out. I don't know whether this wear was cause or effect, as I had the back brake on hard on most downhills for the little effect it did have.  There are some scratches on the back rotor but not much more than the front (or the MTB) and nothing deep like I'd expect if there was a bit of grit preventing proper contact.  The pads were by no means clean but not gritty either.

But what could I have done at the side of the road? There were no bike shops around, but convenience stores and I could probably have found a pharmacy.


texts: Name for the thing attached to spokes to remove tires?

texts:
Some properties:

it is good to have it plastic so it won't break the inner tire
it is size is about 10cm*2cm*0.5cm at maximum, a small thing
you will attach them to spokes so you can change tire
you usually need them two pcs

Since I miss it, I work with spoons to remove tires but I really need the item. So I am just looking for the word of the tool to buy them from Ebay or some other shop online.

Please, create a label 'definition question' or equivalent.


texts: Seat clamp keeps unscrewing, what is the preferred solution?

texts:
To prevent stealing of the seat, I replaced my "fast lock" seat clamp with a model using a regular screw:

The problem is that the screw keeps unscrewing, and I'm already tightening quite strong. I could screw even further but I'm afraid to break something. The screw is steel M5x12, the collar is aluminium, diameter 31.8mm. The bike frame and the seat stem are aluminium.

I thought of the following solutions:

Apply some thread lock
Use a larger, 2-screw clamp, like the followings models:

Which solution would you recommend?

 Update - adding a picture of my seat clamp:


texts: I want to start riding a road Bike. Is it a big difference if I buy a generic one?

texts: I was looking into buying a road bike. I have been doing some research and I understand a little bit better about components. I was looking at the trek 1.1 but I saw a generic gravity liberty 1. It actually has better components than the trek 1.1. trek 1.1 claris. gravity liberty sora. Both have carbon fiber fork. the price is 419.95 for the generic and 800 for the trek one. What are most important components that I need to look into buying a road bike? Is a frame from a brand like Trek better than a frame from a brand like Gravity? .


texts:
I'm worried about my derailleur snapping. The chain isn't running around the bottom pulley, it's running next to it, scraping against the bottom pulley and the frame.  When I change gears it makes a horrific noise and the bike has ground to a halt without me touching my brakes. This has happened 3 times.

I am doing the London to Brighton charity bike ride in 29 hours. I don't have time to get it into a shop and I have a 54 mile ride to do and I am worried about my derailleur snapping.

What should I do?


texts: Does dropping off a 4" kerb damage wheels?

texts:
Every day I ride off a kerb from the pavement onto the road (about a 4" drop) on a pretty standard commuter bike with 26" tires. (I could get off, or ride around, but it's a pain…)

Is this a good idea? Is it going to damage the tire or wheel?
If I am going to do this, is there a way of doing it to minimise any problems it might cause? (e.g. riding faster/slower, applying brakes/not applying brakes.)

I'm hoping the details won't make much difference, but just in case, I'm 85kg/185lb, the tires are 1.15" wide, and going by the price of the bike (~$800), the wheels are average commuter quality.


texts: Why do tire producing companies still produce tubulars? Isn`t Tubeless the technology of the future?


texts: What can my Shimano BR-M445 caliper be replaced with?

texts: I have a Shimano BR-M445 disc brake caliper that has decided to give up on life, so I need a replacement. It seems like the BR-M445 is no longer produced, so are there other calipers that can replace it?


texts: Ting/Ping noise from front wheel around rotor

texts:
There is a constant ting-ting-ting noise from the front brake/rotor of my mountain bike.  The bike shop said it's the rivets of the floating rotor but I'm not convinced at it happens from the moment I set off, I would only expect it from the rivets as the rotor heats up due to braking.

The pads have been adjusted etc but it's still there.

Any ideas?

Tia


texts: Best chain lubricant for commuter/utility bikes?

texts:
What's the best chain lubricant for a bike used for riding in normal(ish) clothes, year-round?

I've been using Tri-Flow, but that tends to leave black greasy/dirty stains on pants, shoes, etc. I've heard of melting solid parafin, but that seems too labor-intensive.

Most important: not picking up dirt; not staining anything that touches the chain.  (yes, I know of various ways to keep clothes away from the chain, but none are perfect)

Must also work in a wide temp range and wet conditions. For my area, I'll ride in temps from 30F (-1C) to 106F (41C). With heavy rains in winter. Just this last week I've ridden in drizzle, 55F (13C), and 107F (42C)…

Would be nice if it was long-lasting…


texts: Amateur Bicycle Racing outside of the US

texts:
I'm interested in taking a trip to Europe (although perhaps this question can apply to other areas of the world) and do some bike racing at a really amateur level like the equivalent of Cat 4 or Cat 3 in the US.  Mainly interested in road races.

Any ideas on where I can find information on these types of races if they exist?  Also any tips on administrative details of racing as a foreigner are appreciated.


texts: How common is toe overlap on 29" wheel bikes? Also, is there a way to fix the overlap by say replacing the shocks for some with more travel? Lastly, is toe overlap a major issue on a mountain bike?


texts: Do eliptical chainrings give you an advantage

texts: Has anyone tried oval chainrings? Are they worth the time and money? Any brands worth considering? I'm trying to gain any advantage I can get


texts:
My four year old started riding a pedal bike a few days ago, and thanks to his balance bike took to it like a fish to water; he's going up and down the street or park like a pro already.

He sometimes is able to push off to start, particularly downhill of course, but on straightaways he gets frustrated sometimes.  I've taught him to adjust the pedals to the optimal starting spot (about 1 or 2 o'clock position, right?) and to try to get a little speed with his off foot, but sometimes it's just too hard.  He's used to the balance bike, and can get plenty of speed there, but just doesn't seem to 'get it' with the regular bike.

If it's relevant, he's on a 16"/40cm wheel bike with the seat in the lowest position, and is about 44"/110cm tall; the balance bike he used was a 12"/30cm wheel bike with the seat at the highest position.  When he's on the seat his feet reach the ground, but I'm not sure if they get completely flat to the ground.

Is there a proper way to teach a young child to push off?  Anything I can do to help him other than just letting him keep trying?  He's fairly persistent fortunately, so 'keep trying' is entirely reasonable, but if there's a better technique to teach I'd love to get him started right.


texts: spinning handle bar grips - can it be dangerous

texts:
I did have spinning handle bar grips on my bike. I have now replaced them with some specialized lock on grips i.e. bolted on.

For example if you're cycling on the road, could spinning grips upset your balance to the extent the bike washes out from beneath you?

This may be a stupid question but I don't want another trip to A&E and 6 stitches to my chin.


texts:
I'm using TRINX hybrid bike with stock 700cx35c tyres brand KENDA. Using Shimano SPD pedal with running shoe. stock groupset and wheelset. installed aero bars.

I always can't catch up in group riding. Even my friend with MTB with bigger tyre can ride with road bike. I've noticed I can't go more than 35km/h. Make me tired. Shift to higher gear or lower gear can't get my proper cadance.

Riding solo also feel like my bike very heavy to pedal. Only 18km/h. I can get 22km/h on aero bars. My average speed 23km/h. Being training 30km per ride flat road. No hill in my area so I cannot train for hills.

Got any advice to get faster? Change to hollow bottom bracket? Change tyre to 700cx25c? Thanks. And why MTB can go faster than me?


texts: Can Inner tube 1.25 / 1.5 fit 26x1.4 tire?

texts: I have a tire 26 X 1.4 what size tube should I buy for it? 1.25 or 1.5 Inner tube ?


texts: Recommended exercises for preparing to bicycle commute

texts:
I'm female, in my early 40's, and out of shape, but I have the most perfect bike route to work and I want off the bus. I dislocated my right shoulder about four years ago and it's never been the same. My plan is for an upright, swept-back-handles e-bike (there's a nasty hill on the way home) to keep minimal pressure on my shoulder. The commute would be roughly five miles each way.

Being out of shape and overweight at this age and given the shoulder (specifically, the connecting tissues are especially weak along the top of my shoulder), what kind of exercises would you recommend to prepare me and strengthen the muscles I need for actually cycling? I have access to a good treadmill, top-of-the-line rowing machine, mediocre recumbent bike, and resistance bands. I used to exercise before the dislocation happened and the recumbent bike was for exercise while I couldn't jostle my shoulder.


texts: Rear Rack for Cannondale Trail 6 with Disc brakes

texts:
I was having a real trouble finding a suitable rear rack for my bike, a Cannondale Trail 6, with disc brakes.

My usual bike use is to the office (bag containing laptop, lunch, rain jacket, etc. with approx 7-8 kg. weight), but sometimes I do take my bike outdoors, which may or may not require a rear rack.

So, my expectations from the rack are:

Easy to remove them when not needed.
Something that goes in the rear wheel hub (in the quick release notch), not something attached to the frame.
To take on 12 kg. weight.
Easily installable and serviceable by me. :)

Please suggest some options. TIA.


texts: Recommended inexpensive heart-rate monitors?

texts:
Since I last used a heart rate monitor (about eight years ago), wrist-watch only monitors seem to have increased in popularity (based on the offerings at Amazon)

update apparently these watches come with a chest strap, although the chest-strap is not included in the product description..

In the 90's and early 00's, heart rate monitors never lasted me more than a year or two before the signal or the contacts started to fail.

My primary question is ... can you recommended an inexpensive (<$50) monitor?


texts: Can a 12x142 rear hub and 15mm front hub be converted to 9mm quick release with an adapter?

texts: I need to replace a pair of 26er mtb wheels and want to see if my qr fork and frame can be adapted for through axle hubs.


texts:
I am trying to get an online reference to the exact specs of my second hand bike. What are a) Some good techniques/things to look for? b) Some resources to help the dating process.

E.g I see that https://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=24141 visually exactly matches my bike, however the later models are closer in terms of exact specs, but none are an exact match.

I want to find out for examples which models of tiagra RD were 9 speed (which mine is) but I dont know of any good place to find such information. (This hobby seems to be all about latest/greatest :( )

Alternately I want to find out where to find/locate the model numbers of the various components. Other clues I have is a Truvativ crankset 53/39. FD RD and shifters all tiagra.


texts: Does a typical floor pump have an integrated one-way valve?

texts:
In order for a floor pump to work correctly, something has to make sure that when we pull the pump piston up, the air from the tire does not escape back into the pump. For that there should be a one-way valve between the tube and the pump interior.

My questions is: does the pump itself have its own integrated one-way valve (installed in the pump head, in the pump body or in the hose)? Or does it rely on the existing tube valve (Presta in my case) to keep the air trapped inside the tube between pump strokes?

In other words, when I use a floor pump to inflate my bicycle tires, is the Presta valve on the wheel supposed to open and close with each stroke of the pump? Or is it permitted to stay open at all times (pressed down by pump head), while an integrated valve in the pump provides the one-way functionality?


texts: Which is better - Shorts with padding for cycling (mountain bike shorts) or inner-shorts with a cotton short over it?


texts: Why are bicycle tubing diameters often metric approximations of imperial measurements?

texts:
This is related to my previous question about seatposts and handlebars, but I’d like to generalize the question this time.
The majority of bicycle tubes are metric equivalents of imperial sizes. The point about engineers choosing the best size for the application was brought up in the previous question, but the fact that this is so common leads me to believe that it can’t simply be a coincidence. What makes bicycle manufacturers lean towards these unusual decimal sizes of tubing? Is it availability? Tradition? If anything, standard metric sizes would probably be cheaper to purchase tooling for.
Examples: seatposts, seatpost clamps, steerer tubes, and handlebars (except the pointless MTB 35mm standard).


texts: How to make the most out of daily commute?

texts:
I have heard that bicycling is a great form of cardio exercise. I bike to and from work everyday and the whole way everything is flat. I am not sure what the best way is to make the most out of the exercise.

Should I pedal as hard as I can the whole time?

Is this a good enough alternative to jogging?


texts: Should I replace the tyre or can I keep going?

texts:
I just noticed a small tear in my Continental GP 4000s. It does not bulge out from the side. The tyre have been on for some years now but dont have more than 1000km on them.
I am worried though if I should change them or if I could keep going with them?

Edit: Thanks for all the answers!
Replacing the tire seems like the best thing to do. Especially since I mostly go greater distances whenever I go out cycling. I have a hard time seeing the damage actually myself, but there is no doubt that some of the structural components of the tire have been damaged.
I would gladly pay €30 (or whatever the tire costs) to decrease the risk of tire failure. After all, going out cycling is supposed to be fun and not to cause feelings of uncertainty.


texts: Road bike very twitchy when standing in the pedals?

texts:
First time test riding a road bike yesterday after years on ATBs. Loved it.

But when powering up a hill I'm used to standing up. So did that instinctively, and immediately found I had to sit back down because the steering became like a unicycle - guessing my CofG was a way forwards of the steering axis.

Is this that

the specific bike I was riding is the wrong size for me?
I just can't do that on road bikes?
I can do that, but need to learn a different position to what works on an ATB?


texts: What shifters are compatible with the 8 speed cassette and Deore derailleur on my Trek 6500 ZX?

texts: The top half of my right shifter fell off on a trail the other day, so I need to replace it, but I'm not sure what my options are.  The bike is a 1997 model Trek 6500 ZX with an 8-gear rear cassette and Shimano Deore derailleur.  I can't tell what model the existing shifters are - they don't have gear indicators and the only identifying marks are the word "Shimano" and "8s".


texts: Front and Rear speed shifters aligment guide

texts:
How to align the front and rear speed shifters ?

My chain dropped from the front chain ring, and I put it back on the first gear I found, then the rear one fall off, and I put the chain back on the middle gear of the rear cassette.

So my question is, how do I align the chain on the front and back gears in order to put things back in order ?


texts: What year etc is this Specialized Epic Comp?

texts:
I'm trying to find what kind of brand/year my bike is so I can find more information about it. It might help me determine if I should buy a new bike or just wait.
The only information I got now is this:
Epic Comp Specialized, but I don't know the year and so on


texts: Is an e-bike more of a bicycle or more of a scooter?

texts:
With new battery technologies a new kind of "bicycle" has emerged - so-called e-bike.

It usually has an electric motor on one of its wheels. The motor is powered by a rather huge (size of a small bag) battery. Pedals, star wheels and the chain are still in place, so the user can

use it as a normal bicycle or
use pedals to assist the vehicle or
just rely on the motor and use it as a scooter.

Speeds like 20 kmph witout using pedals are typically promised.

What I don't get is in which scenario and how I use such vehicle.

Do I use is as a scooter with ability to be driven by pedals once it runs out of the battery or do I use it as a bicycle with the motor assisting me and letting go faster without too much of activity?


texts: I have a trekking bike. Should I buy a road bike to train for a race?

texts:
I have a trekking bike (similar to this one : http://www.hervis.at/products/product?code=BASE:1842986&referer=at-bike-cross )  and I plan to join some triathlon events in the future. I try to do some long runs (sorry if that is not that long for you) around 70-80 km, but I cannot be faster than 21 km/h. I see the others with road bikes are much quicker than me(but I don't know whether this is because of me or the bike).

My first point is that I dont want to spend money now and I am really undecided whether this is a good strategy to train for later. Do you think there is room for big speed improvement with the road bikes? Is it similar to train with the trekking bike and then change it or does it change the style a lot?


texts:
I bought a TREK FX SPORT 5 a couple of weeks ago and I've ridden it like 200km without any problems.

Today was the first time I biked when it was raining and I noticed after like 100 meter that there was some kind of scratching noise coming from the front disc. I stopped and looked for dirt/whatever but couldn't see anything.

The noise continued for the rest of the ride and I also noticed some screaming when breaking (only from the front brake).

When I got home I cleaned the bike and let it dry and now there are no sounds coming from the front brake and the wheel spins really good.

So, what do you guys think happened here? It felt like as soon as the brake/disc got wet, it started to make a "scratching" noise. Is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future?


texts: Can a 26 Inch Controller Drive a 20 Inch Wheel?

texts:
My situation:

A Bakfiets with a bad controller (hills too much for it I think)
Supplier has offered to send me a new controller
Supplier has also offered to supply a whole new separate battery - controller - motor system to mount on the front wheel (to prevent a recurrence of controller failure). This is a unit he has unused and it is designed for a rear 26 inch wheel.

This sounds great, but I am worried that his second controller won't properly drive my 20 inch front wheel.

My question - will this system work? Do controllers need to be configured to drive different wheel sizes? I feel the answer is yes, otherwise, how can a controller know the speed of the bike - it only has two ways of knowing this - the pedelec or the motor.


texts: Are frame changes needed to switch groupset from Shimano to Campagnolo?

texts: I want change the groupset on my Scott Addict R2 from Shimano to Campagnolo.  Is Campagnolo fully compatible or will I need to make frame changes?


texts: Shimano 105 5800 rear shifter: intermittent downshift jam, clears when held upside down

texts:
First post here. I can't seem to figure out a strange problem with my right-hand Shimano 105 5800 shifter, which is only 15 months and a few thousand miles old.

Initial symptoms on the bike:
Intermittently, when attempting to downshift to an easier gear at the rear (larger sprocket), the large lever would jam just at the point where you would normally expect a click and a shift. No shift happens. This would occur, seemingly at random, in all rear sprockets. The feeling at the lever is the same as hitting the limit stop when you reach the biggest sprocket. Temporary, unreliable remedy: shift up first to a harder gear, then shift down two gears, and hope it doesn't immediately jam again.

My first thought:
Must be the gear cable fraying. These shifters have a habit of eating the rear derailleur cable inside the shifter mechanism. I've had that before, although the symptoms were different: that was a gradual degradation in shift performance, not a total jam. Anyway, I replaced the cable (inner and outer) for good measure, but the problem persists.

Further investigation:
I took the lever off the bike to check the mechanism function without a cable, and the problem is still there. The fault remains exactly as it first presented on the bike:

occasional jam when attempting shift to larger sprocket
shift to smaller sprocket always works perfectly, and sometimes temporarily cures the downshift jam

Most oddly, when the lever is held upside down (lever sticking up in the air), the shifting is perfect (at least, once you've downshifted to get it unjammed, it stays unjammed).

I have taken the bottom inspection plate off to have a look at the inside of the shifter, but avoided further disassembly (so far, at least...). The only thing I've done is clean it out and relube it.

Video:
Youtube video demonstrating

fully correct operation when held upside down
then turning it right side up, and successful upshifts
then the downshift jam occurs
then turning it upside down again; the downshift jam is maintained
lastly, an upshift restores fully correct (upside down) operation

Photos:
These are taken in the "jammed" condition (i.e. will not downshift).

Any ideas?