texts: Can anybody help me identify my road bike frame?

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The serial number is located under the bottom bracket and its C0 30 402322. It was repainted and the fork is also been replaced. It has the downtube shifter mounts on it with braze on front mech hanger. The frame is made of aluminum and its has a standard 1" headset on it. The downtube is teardrop-like shaped as well.
Still trying to identify this frame for 2 years now and scoured the net for any info but no luck even my LBS who knew the painter and previous owner had no idea also cant find the previous owner to ask and the painter passed away.
Hope somebody can help. Thanks. Will add photos if somebody notices.


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Let me begin by saying that yes, I am trying to unscrew the pedal in the correct direction. It is the right side pedal, I am attempting to turn it counter-clockwise.

So here are the pedals I have:

Now, they look like they have a nice textured part that you can grip when installing or removing them. Unfortunately, that is not the case. That knobby part is actually part of the pedal. It rotates with the pedal itself.

The threaded portion of the pedal that screws into the crank is completely smooth. As in baby smooth. There's nothing for a wrench to grip. I have a pair of pliers that are just a tiny bit too wide. I'm going to see if I can find a narrower pair.

The first pedal came off easily. It just unscrewed. This one seems a bit more "stuck". Other than getting a smaller pair of pliers, are there any good tricks to removing pedals like these?


texts: Chain drops off outwards betweeng plastic guard and last cog on crankset

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Chain drops off outwards between plastic guard and last cog on crankset. This effect i mostly managed to remove by moving front derailleurs inside (not happened since). But looks like the core issue is not solved. Sometimes under applied torque chain getting of the cog and just slips few teeth with cracking noise. It's not happening on the stand.
I drove not more than few hundreds kilometers.
I cannot move front derailleur even more, as frame will start rubbing the chain.
Drivetrain: Shimano Claris 3x8. Shimano chain CN-HG71 7/8 with KMC masterlink.
Chain is new and waxed, front and rear derailleurs are new and installed by me. Wiring is also new.
Crankset is a bit older than other components but does not look obviously bent. However I do not know how crakset behaves when I'm applying the torque.
How I can diagnose core issue ?


texts: How do you find the right saddle for road biking?

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I bought a Cube Attain GTRC disc, a great bike apart from the saddle, which is quite chunky and square.

I would like to find a better one.  Tips for saddle sizing for road biking?

Long saddle versus short
Cut out or not
thin versus thick
measurement of sit bones? how?
material?
brands?
length of ride

I once went to the cycle show and sat on a special seat that displaced blue gel and showed the shape of my arse. Is this recommended? Not sure if I will find these in IKEA though.


texts: Riding experience of 21-speed vs. a 7-speed?

texts: I am 5 feet tall, age 63, weight about 110 pounds, and I ride mainly for exercise on paved greenway trails. I used to ride a lot and can go many road miles, say up to 20 miles, quite well on terrain that is mostly flat but I struggle on hills. My old Marin 21-speed from REI feels too heavy and I want a bike that is lighter weight, a little easier overall to ride, and may "help" me get up hills (a la Atlanta, Georgia, if you know what I mean...) without having to walk my bike. However, the Marin has 21 speeds and I like being able to choose gears. But I am thinking of the 7-speed Cannondale Treadway 3 which I tried yesterday and it rides like a cloud! Apparently the 7 speeds only allow you to pedal to a limit on flatter or downhill terrain, and then it sort of spins out and you have to coast. At least that is how I interpret what the bike shop guy said. I'd rather be assured I will get some pedaling exercise while flatter sections. Is this a good tradeoff? I don't want or need a souped-up bike and at $635 the Treadway seems like a nice buy.


texts: Do one-sided clip-in pedals have a bit more friction and inefficiency than alternatives?

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Moving from old style pedals years ago, to when I took up cycling again more recently, I noticed a difference when oiling the bike, while doing maintenance.

After oiling an old style pedal, I would always flick it to see that it rotated more freely due to the new oil.  It would do several rotations and take a few seconds to slow down.  But doing the same with my newer clip-in pedals, they only do a few turns.

Is this due to the one-sided pedal (Shimano LOOK pedal design) having a weighted end?  That is, does this pedal slow down more quickly after it is flipped, due to it's asymmetrical pedal weight distribution?  Or, do people think there would   inherently be more friction in such a pedal?


texts: I have been given this bike and am trying to find out more about it - I can't find anything on the bike that tells me it's make etc - any ideas would be very welcome.


texts: Most effective way to improve cantilever brakes

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I have a Dawes Super Galaxy touring bike with cantilever brakes, and I'm a bit worried about the stopping power of the brakes when I start loading the bike up with kit to go touring. But I don't know what the most effective method to improve the braking power would be.  I've listed below some options I would consider, but I've also included what I don't know which could affect each measure.

Change the brake blocks. Perhaps more expensive brake blocks are much more effective.
Check your brake adjustment. Perhaps there are common and simple mistakes people make when setting up cantilever brakes.
Change to newer cantilever brakes. Perhaps the old style cannot be fixed and it's best to go for more modern cantilvers.
Change to a different type of brake. Perhaps cantilevers as a whole just aren't very good and my forks are compatible with a different brake style.
Buy new rims. Perhaps my rims are made of a notoriously slippery material and changing anything about the brakes will never have that large an effect.

I'd be grateful if people could point me in the direction of finding out which is the single biggest change I can make for better braking performance.
A few notes:

I tried to follow this park tool video when setting up the brakes: Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment - Cantilever Smooth Post

I have these brake pads as spares but I haven't fitted them yet: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-blocks/aztec-control-block-cantilever-brake-blocks/
My current brakes look more like this than this - i.e., long arms which stick out horizontally rather than starting vertically from the bosses before curving out.
I have these brake levers, which have a setting compatible with cantilevers: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers/shimano-sora-blr3000-flat-bar-caliper-brake-levers-222mm-clamp-black/


texts: What is the difference between Shimano BB71 and BB72 bottom brackets?

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I often see the Shimano BB71 and BB72 press fit bottom brackets listed on stores alongside one another, like here for example, so what's the difference?

Are they both the same geometrically? Is one a premium version over the other?

Additionally it appears my Giant TCR Advanced 2 2016 has a BB-71, though from an answer below it appears that's an MTB bottom bracket? How does that make sense?


texts: What do I do wrong to get hip aches after biking?

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I ride about 17 miles each session. After the ride, the outside of my hips sore: only the parts near the outermost joints, most likely the tendon (although this is only a guess). My knees are fine, my ankles are fine, etc.

The only thing that might not fit perfectly for me is the seat height. I'd rather have a longer post so I can lift the seat up an inch or two. Do you think this might create the soreness in the area of the outer hips?


texts: I'm a bit confused on bike shoe terminology. Particularly regarding Look KEO Plus Pedals - what is required to use them?

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I'm a bit confused on terminology.

Clipless pedals are the clip-in style pedals. Correct?
Then the cleat are the shoes you wear? Or are cleats just bottom attachments for any cycling shoe?

A used cycle I'm looking at getting has Look KEO Plus Pedals on it which says it comes with Cleats. The shoes the guy had didn't fit though. I'm not fully understanding if any bicycle shoe will fit the Look KEO Plus Pedal or if I need a particular cleat and/or shoe for it?

Terminology index - a list of bike part names and cycling concepts has a mention of Look Pedals but doesn't really go into any detail that would answer my question.


texts: Rear dropout with adjustments screws of a single speed bicycle

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I have got a single speed bicycle (Pure Fix Original Series) and I need to remove the rear wheel to the replace the punctured tube. The rear dropout has adjustment screws (I am not sure if this is the right term but you can see them in the photo).

I have never removed the rear wheel of my bicycle since I bought it about a year and a half ago. I am not sure if I have to loosen the adjustment screws when I remove the rear wheel or if I have to readjust them when I put the wheel back. I would like to make sure that I do not mess something up when I remove and reinstall the wheel. So my questions are as follow.

Do I have to loosen the adjustment screws when I remove the rear wheel?
Do I have to readjust the adjustment screws when I put the wheel back having in mind that the adjustment was done about a year and a half ago? If yes, how should I do that?

Any help is much appreciated!


texts:
I've erroneously bought a rim (hoping my technical English is right: the part of the wheel between the spokes and the tire). While I have no immediate use for it, shipping it back to the seller for refund would be a waste of shipping costs if I would need a new rim in the foreseeable future. I have been riding a Gazelle street bike for ~10 years now, and it is showing signs of wear along the periphery. In particular, I've recently discovered I've been negligient with checking the spokes of my rear wheel, which has been running some time with broken spokes. For the second time now in these 10 years.

How long can I reasonably expect rims to last on a street bike? Will I be facing replacements sometime soon?


texts: I have a Trek Speed concept series 7 frame size XS triathlon bike which is fitted with 650 size wheels. However I was wondering if I could at all put 700 wheels/tyres on, as when I brought it 2nd hand from the owner they said "Trek only produce XS Frame with 650 wheels otherwise impossible to produce correct geoemtry" and was wondering upon the accuracy of that statement, and  I'm 167cm tall F so wouldn't mind some some 700 wheels/tyres on the bike if that's possible at all?


texts: Another stem diameter question (French steerer)

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The steerer in the French bike I'm restoring has about .2mm less diameter than "regular" ones. With some grease, I manage to fit the "regular" cinelli stem I will use into the steerer. (Mine is the opposite problem as this.)

I'm inclined to I leave it thus. What are the odds that stem and steerer will freeze after some time, making removal hard/impossible?

The alternative is to sand down the stem to get a more easy fit. Downside is that sanding means the end of the stem's very nice looks, forever.

I will be grateful for anyone with advice to offer.


texts: Is it safe to wear a helmet without a plastic covering?

texts: A friend of mine gave me a foam bike helmet had the plastic covering removed from it. Besides for the plastic being removed, the helmet is in excellent condition. Is there any issues with using this helmet for riding locally as far as safety is concerned? I think the plastic cover was thin to begin with so I think it wouldn't make much of a difference.


texts: I've noticed that when I get going above around 30 mph, normally on a downhill, my front wheel starts to oscillate back and forth slightly, like it is steering is a slightly sinusoidal path rather than in a straight line. I'm curious what might be causing this phenomena? Perhaps it is an artifact of my particular body size and frame geometry, or of the wide tire size catching wind (37 cm)? my wheel is fairly true left-right wise although it has a tiny bump in it up-down wise. I'd expect if this were the cause I'd notice it at lower speeds to though. Any thoughts?


texts: What kind of chain to buy for internal gears?

texts: What kind of chain should I buy if my gears are internal in a drum?  I have seven gears but should I buy a one speed chain?  What would happen if I would use a seven speed chain?


texts: Machining a 9000 series inner chainring to fit on a 9100 series crankset

texts: I'm using a Shimano 9100 crankset currently, with 53/39 9100 series chainrings, but on my last bike I had 53/38 and I loved that combination. I have a 38 tooth chainring to put on, but it doesnt currently fit. While the change from 9000 to 9100 didn't change the chainring bolt position at all (I've checked and they line up perfectly) or the interface with the crank on three of the four arms, the fourth has been trimmed down, to make room for some more material on the crankset. This seems to have been done entirely to force consumers to purchase new chainrings, but they no longer make a 38 tooth in the current series of Dura Ace. Would it be safe to modify my chainring and where would I find someone who would do this?


texts: Why do cable disk brake instructions say not to use the barrel adjusters?

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Most instructions that come with cable (aka mechanical) disc brakes say not to use the barrel adjusters on the brake levers.

Why not? Is there that much difference between the barrel adjuster on the levers and the barrel adjuster on the calliper?


texts: How much faster can my commute be if I use a power meter?

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When biking to work, my routes have have stop signs, stop lights, and other interruptions every few blocks or so.

My understanding is that if I reach my power at target heart rate soon after stopping so that I still save glycogen, my commutes would be faster. I'm commuting five days a week. How effective is it really in practice? How much would I expect my average speed to increase?

Update with examples.

After stopping at stop signs, I plan to accelerate by keeping my power around 150W depending on my fitness.

After stopping at traffic lights, I plan to gradually raise my power to 150W because my heart rate would drop.

In both cases, my heart rate shouldn't exceed 180-age. With power, I know that I'm not overshooting it.

Update: Sample morning race to work ride in response to a comment.


texts: Rotors bent very slightly but no rubbing. Is driving safe?

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I just bought Rockrider 520 with Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disk brakes on it. I didn't ride it yet.

Both brake rotors have a very slight bent and no rubbing. Just nearing both pads every round and braking power seems good. (For me as an unexperienced rider.)

I did a caliper alignment by loosening two bolts, brake hard and tightening. Before this there was slight rubbing every round.

Am I supposed to do something? Is this normal? Is driving safe?


texts:
I commute 17 miles to and from work each day on a road bike, and I recently picked up a puncture. This was no problem. However, on my ride to work this morning it was raining rather heavily and there was a lot of standing water on the road. I have somehow managed to get water into my rear tire. I was wondering if this is normal and should I deflate the tire and let the water out?

Should I also get a new back tire? I can’t see any holes in it and the inner tube only had the smallest of holes in it.


texts: Are new Shimano shifters compatible with old 600 Arabesque derailleurs?

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Does anyone know if I can use new gear shifters, especially integrated road bike shifters, with vintage a Shimano 600 Arabesque rear derailleur? Will the pull ratio of the shifter and derailleur match? Also, should I stick to Shimano or could I use Campagnolo, SRam, etc.

Update:
I have a 9-speed modern cassette and the my frame was stretched to fit it.

Additional question: do you think the 600 will handle a 9 speed cassette?


texts:
I would like to wash my bike.

Which cautionary steps should I take?

Which parts of a Bike are water sensitive?

Which steps should I take after bike wash?


texts: My LBS does not carry fixed-gear/single-speed parts. What next?

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Question Changed. See Below for Original.
My local bike shop neither carries fixed-gear/single-speed parts nor is very knowledgable about the topic.
Should I find an online storefront to take its place? Or try to work with my LBS to get the parts I need?
Original Question: Online Shop Suggestions for Fixies/Single-Speeds

I'm looking for a reliable online shop for fixed-gear/single-speed parts. I have a frame and fork and am wanting to buy new, quality parts to complete my first build. Any suggestions?
Looking for (EDIT):

Fixed/Free wheel-set, cogs and crank.
Shop specializing in, but not limited to, fixed-gear/single-speed parts.
Quality customer service by email or phone.
A local bike shop with a good online storefront.
Prompt shipping.
Ships to U.S. (Texas)

I've tried my local bike shop for these parts, but unfortunately they were not very helpful after mentioning single-speed (they were cool about it, just uninformed).


texts: What are the advantages of having a aluminium frame?

texts: are there any advantages that an aluminium body brings to the tables over carbon frames?


texts: What is the easiest to upgrade my chainrings from a double to a triple?

texts: I have a 2007 Specialized Tarmac Pro Double and I need some better gearing. I am doing more hill climbs and I feel that I need at least two lower gears than I already have. What would be the most efficient way to upgrade my bike. Would it be easy to get a triple chainring? Will I have to get a new derailleur? What else would I need to change?


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I have a question about chain "closing" (not sure of the english word, but you get it, right?).

I know how to open a chain with a chain tool, and I know I must not "go too far" as to remove the rivet from the outside hole. And I consider I have gone far enough when the chain can be opened. So it's pretty straightforward.

But when closing a chain, how do I know I went "far enough"?


texts: Old chain still shifting perfectly, should I change it out?

texts: My chain is ready to be replaced according to gauge, but, my shifting is flawless. Should I replace the chain or squeeze another few hundred miles out ? It currently has about 2500 and is a CN6701. Thanks !


texts: Bike is slightly too large, shorten the stem?

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I feel that my bike frame is slightly too large because I'm stretching out quite a bit even when on the hoods.

I'm considering swapping out my 90mm stem for a 35mm or 40mm stem

It seems like these aren't designed for road bikes, but would they still be okay to use considering the clamp diameter is identical to that of my roadie's?


texts: I changed the battery in my Sigma BC 500 and it only displays flashing SET MPH. How do I stop this?


texts:
I recently switched from a mountain bike to a road bike with 22mm tires for commuting.

I noticed right away that I could not do the things like hop over curbs with this new bike. I also got flats. Lots of flats. I would get 1 flat per week, and I got good at patching tires. After a few weeks of this i got Tuffy tire liners and haven't gotten a flat since. I patched up all holes in my tires from inside before putting them in (and they were a pain to put in).

I still have the following fears:

If I am going fast and I hit a small (less then 3" bump), I might get a pinch flat.
I cannot ride off a curb onto the payment without wrecking my bike.
I cannot hop curbs.
I must check my tires after every ride for glass lodged in them and take it out with tweezers.
If there is a sizeable hole (from glass) in my tire, I must use a patch kit to patch it up.
I must always ride at 120psi per tire (I weigh ~200lbs).
My stopping power compared to the mountain bike is really really bad (especially in the rain).
I must pay extreme attention to the road and go around bumps.

Should I be worried about these concerns? Are 22mm tires too thin for commuting?

Followup:

Well, after about 2 months of daily commuting on the road bike I have this to say in the defense of my earlier self:

My biggest issues turned out to be:

My bike lock which I used to attach to my bike created a lot of vibration which in turn made it impossible for me to hear any noise my bike was making. One time I rode on a flat for a few minutes because I couldn't hear/tell it was there because of the vibration/noise. This incident made me think that flats on a road bike were undetectable.
I rode clipless which scared me in traffic.

I've since started to carry my bike lock in my backpack so now I can hear my bike. I've also replaced my awesome clipless pedals with regular ones which made me feel much more comfortable in high traffic. Not fearing death actually made me faster with regular pedals in the city.

Commuting on the road bike is a blast. I love passing everyone, and now that I figured out how to properly use both brakes, I can actually stop almost as quickly as I could on my fat tired mountain bike.


texts: Is it better to get an entry-level carbon bike or a similarly priced aluminum bike?

texts: I am going to buy my first proper road bike, and I have been comparing entry-level carbon frames with top-level aluminum frames in the same series (Giant Defy). What are the benefits of carbon vs. aluminum frames? Is it better to get an aluminum bike with higher-end components or a similarly priced carbon bike with lower-end components?


texts: Electronic bicycling ranking for the office cyclists?

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in the office many of us cycle to work. We though it would be cool to have ranking of cyclists with different sorting (distance, avg. speed and such). We can track our trips with Android or iPhone apps (like Strava Cycling).

We are mostly developers, so if we find a tool or device that can easily display a ranking (per week, month, all time) we can use the tools to track our trips and compete with each other :) Can you suggest something that might work?


texts: How to fit a Storage Options bike cam helmet mount

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I recently bought a helmet and handbar moutable camera made by a firm called storage options.  The instructions do not explain how to fit the strap for helmet attachment.  It consists of a ring of elastic with a further piece of elastic attached at right angles to the ring to form a half circle above the ring.  The camera mount is at the T where this extra piece attaches to the ring, and is oriented in the same direction as the extra piece.

Here is a photo of the strap.  I think that the camera is supposed to be inserted in an upwards direction into the area above the buckle on the lower strap (although this doesn't seem like a secure mount).

Here is a photo of the camera in situ on a helmet.  As you can see it's not entirely clear how the straps are arranged from this photo

Does anyone know how to fit this to my helmet (which has a sun visor and to the best of my knowledge is a Giro Venti)?


texts:
I want to buy this second-hand bike but the person selling it lives in a different city and I can't go there at the moment.
However I can't explain it but I really like the bike even though I only have this picture of it.
I would like to know if any of you recognize the bike.
The only thing I know about it is that the bike is German.


texts:
I'm building a city/light-touring bike with a single chainring and an 8 speed cassette (11-32T). I bought cranks with the wrong chainring; one for single speed, with a 1/8" chain. I now want to make sure I get the correct chainring. I'm looking for around 44-46 teeth. I'm having some trouble finding one that's not too expensive. I'm looking at this one:

https://specialites-ta.com/plateaux/road/single-chainring.html

It says "Compatible with 7, 8, 9 and 10 speed chains", which I assume is 3/32" chains (what I have), but I'm thinking it might not work well with the lateral movement of the chain from the rear derailleur, as they don't mention derailleurs at all: "Chainring for single use, such as tandem, Rohloff, single speed, urban fittings ...". Can anyone shed some light on this, or what I should look for in a chainring for this use case? Thanks!


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I want to know when to change my chain:
I purchased the following item:

It has two sides:

0,75 % --> for aluminium Cassette

1 % --> for steel cassette
(according to https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettenverschlei%C3%9Flehre)

My bike: https://www.boc24.de/p/compel-rr-100/213327/#itemId=213327-1
According to
https://www.bike-components.de/de/Shimano/105-Kassette-CS-R7000-11-fach-p62071/

Material Ritzel: Stahl

Spider / Ritzelträger: 1 (Aluminium)

(Therefore, I would guess my cassette is made of steel (Stahl)).
Question:
Is my Cassette made of steel and i would go for the 1% side?


texts: Speed to power calc on a 'basic' magnetic trainer

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I'm a dedicated non-MAMIL, and I enjoy riding indoors on a cheap-and-cheerful 14-speed (max tooth ratio 48->14) attached to a $70 basic trainer while watching the footy or listening to music. No wind, no hills, no roundabouts, no car drivers trying to 'door' me, no public shaming from needing to get off the bike to push when I 'gas out' on a hill - seems all upside to me.

My usual exercise protocol is 'steady state' for ~1hour at an average HR in the high-130s and a total cal burn of ~1000kcal, and twice a week I do an HIIT-style workout -

ride until I get my HR to the low 140s (which only takes a few
minutes at cadence ~85 in top gear with 'wine cask' resistance), then
8 x 30-sec maximal effort sprints with 90 sec rest in between.

During my sprints, cadence is 120 (min) to 131 (max) in top gear, and HR always gets to 170 on the second sprint - that's my theoretical max given my age (51) and RHR (58).

After the sprint set, I do another 20-40 minutes at a cadence/gear combination that ensures that my average HR for the entire workout is in the 135-140 range and my average cal burn is 15 kcal/min.

I set my trainer so that it takes a 5-litre cask of wine (which weighs ~5.2kg) to move the pedal from horizontal. (This bit is a key input later, I think).

I'm buying a Wahoo KickR shortly so I will have a fair dinkum speed and power meter and this question will be answered by technology!

Until then I am interested in the performance analytics that can be done with basic mathematics based on what I have now (Wahoo cadence kerjigger in my shoe, Mio Alpha HRM on my wrist, and known-knowns like wheel diameter, crank length, force required to move the pedal, and cog ratio).

By year 10 mathematics it appears that my minimum sprint speed (based on 680mm rear wheel diameter, 120rpm crank cadence and 48:14 ratio) sustainable for 30sec is ~51km/hr, with a peak of ~56km/hr (at 130rpm, only held for seconds - so not relevant).

Those seem inordinately high for a fat old indoor hack - but bear in mind there is no wind resistance, no drag, and to the extent that the 'wine cask' resistance mimics a slope I'm not actually having to move my bodyweight (104kg) or bike (12kg) up the slope.

So here's the question (finally): is there enough information there to estimate power?

We have:

crank length 175mm;
rear wheel diameter 680mm;
cadence 120 rpm;
gear ratio 48:14;
mass required to move pedal from horizontal 5.2kg (with empty bike)

I am reasonably certain that my (and the bike's) weight - 104kg and 12 kg respectively - are irrelevant, except to the extent that when I get on the bike the mass required to move the pedal would increase slightly (probably not enough to really make a meaningful difference to the calcs).

Almost all the power formulae that I've found, use the rider+bike weight - which is pointless on a trainer. If I subtract my weight, then the power formulae return garbage (and are way out of whack with the caloric expenditure during the 'effort' sets).

Has anybody got any insight on this?


texts: I am a new biker. I got some tubes to replace, but I am not able to identify the valve, I try to force air with presta convertor but the moment I remove it air blows off in a second. Please help identify valve and suggest how to fill air


texts:
I'm interested in the design of cottered cranks. The cotter-pin joint as seen in vintage bicycles is not a very widespread type of joint in modern times, so it's hard to find information about this in machinery handbooks, etc.
For example, given a common 5/8" diameter crank spindle, and 3/8" diameter cotter pin, how far is the cotter pin bore drilled from the spindle center? And how deep are the flats on the spindle? Is this described in any standards document, or at least is there a rule of thumb, like the cotter pin bore should overlap the spindle by X percent of the cotter diameter, etc? Are there any resources available to describe this mechanism or can we only reverse-engineer vintage bike cranks?
For reference, here are some dimensions that I measured with a digital caliper, from a random crankset.
Spindle diameter at the crank-arms: 0.0620 (nominal size is 5/8" or 0.626, so the spindle is about 0.006" undersize.
Spindle thickness at bottom of the cotter-notch: 0.505. Therefore the notch is cut about 0.115" deep, or about 18% of the diameter.
Notch is about 3/8" wide and centered about 3/8" from the end of the spindle.
Hole in crankarm for the spindle is about 0.652"...quite a lot oversize! I suspect better-quality cranks had tighter tolerances.
Hole in crankarm for the cotter is about 0.380"...0.005" over the nominal 3/8" size.
The cotter-hole appears to be drilled so that the edge of the spindle-hole touches the axis of the cotter-hole...in other words, if the spindle were fully round, it would cut the cotter right in half...+/- 0.020" or so that I'm able to measure.


texts: Could somebody please identify this bicycle?

texts:
I have been looking into purchasing a second hand road bicycle for my daily commute. I went through many possibilities and would like to know if any of you have seen or can identify the attached. Do you know how much it is worth and is it any good?

Many thanks in advance,
F.


texts: What is the maximum input torque on Sturmey-Archer internally geared hubs?

texts:
What is the maximum input torque that can be sustained by sturmey archers internally geared hubs.  The website is surprisingly short on info about this.

I'm specifically interested in the hybrid gearing hubs that allow fitting a 9 speed cassette onto a 3 speed IGH.  But I expect the internals of all the 3 speed hubs are the same. http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/cs-rf3-silver

The website mentions a maximum sprocket size of 34 teeth, but without the minimum chainring size that's rather meaningless.

Thanks


texts: Dynamo bike lights - unknown short circuit cause

texts:
I've bought and installed dynamo powered lights on my bike. A little bit about the setup - It's the bottle dynamo kind pressing against the tire system. The Dynamo produces current turning clockwise and counterclockwise. The setup completes the electrical circuit using the frame of the bike. The front and the back light are powered by the same dynamo but are wired through separate circuits.

I've set up and used the system successfully. However I was doing some work on the bike and had to dismantle and reattach the front light. From the moment i attached the front light back the system hasn't worked. If i disconnect electrical influx and the return loop from the front light the back light works. If I connect merely the influx connector the back light works again. In other words - the entire system stops working when the front light is connected fully and properly in the manner that the electrical loop / circuit is closed.

I've tried using a backup front light with same results. The bulb, even if it were out on both of the front lights i tried, can't be the culprit - the back light should still work as it is wired to the same dynamo but independently. I've checked the influx / hot / live cable of the front light, it isn't damaged - but again, even if it were and it were to touch the naked bike body somewhere, the back light system should still work.

This is the only situation in which the entire system fails: When the front light is connected properly with the electrical in and out cables attached.

Which would mean that the entire system fails when the flow of electricity through the front light is established, not impeded - which makes no sense!
In all other situations the back light works fine. So what the heck is going on?

I apologize for using improvised terminology (influx and such), I'm not an expert on electrical systems, as such the answer could be glaring however I don't see it.

I've checked previous threads with similar issues like this one
Diagnosing faulty circuit in vintage incandescent headlamp
however I've found no matching issue or applicable solution.


texts: What factors affect the price of a chain?

texts: Just like most bicycle parts, chains have a pretty wide price range. What are the factors weighting in on the price of a chain ? (Other than width/bike-compatibility characteristics)


texts:
My wife has a bicycle like this.  It is only a few months old and it gets light use on weekends on (smooth) some dirt roads.

Recently it sometimes fails to downshift at the rear (i.e. shift to the smaller gears). When she stops I can see that the cable is loose.  The spring in the derailleur doesn't seem to pull it tight. Moving the shifter or gently moving the derailleur fixes it temporarily, but then it may happen again an hour later.

What could have triggered the problem?

What should I try to fix it?  Simply lubricate parts?


texts: I have some tubeless ready wheels and tires, but they were delivered mounted with tubes the old fashion way. I’ve been riding like that for more than 800km, and I wonder if there is a problem removing the tube and add some sealant after so long. Especially since I had a puncture from a small nail, meaning the rubber from the tire already suffered a small punch.


texts:
I have a 1963 Sears cruiser, three speed, which I bought very recently. On my third ride, the middle speed stopped working, and went loose; there wasn't any "traction" when I pedaled. It happened as I rode in a particularly hilly part of town. I'm new to biking, so perhaps I shifted gears at the wrong time? The highest and lowest gears still work fine, only the middle speed doesn't work.
Before buying this bike, the mechanic realized that the lowest gear had this same problem, and fixed it pretty quickly. Do I simply need to tighten or loosen the changing mechanism? Or do I need to replace it?

Thanks,


texts:
I have a frame I would like to get repainted. It is a composite of aluminum and carbon fiber (Al main triangle, carbon fiber seat/chain stays). The carbon fiber is unpainted (maybe a clear coat) and I'd like to keep it this way.

Is it easy to sand blast just the Al part? If the carbon fiber gets sand blasted it will just get destroyed, right? What would happen if I used glass bead or plastic bead blasting?
It should be no problem for a professional to repaint the Al. Simply mask off the carbon fiber and paint away, right?


texts: Where are the bearings in thru axle hubs?

texts:
So I’ve looked all over the internet to find an anatomy picture of a thru axle hub, because I don’t understand where the bearings go, and I can’t find anything helpful.

Can anyone help me understand where the bearings are in a thru axle hub? Maybe show a picture. I just want to know.


texts: Nukeproof Pulse SRAM PG-1030, 11/26, 10-speed to 11/36t, 10-speed

texts:
I'm a bit of an amateur but looking for advice at the moment.

My cassette is 11-26t which is pretty hard for me (not that fit).

I'm looking at changing to the 36t which I can see would be bigger, if so would I need a new derailleur system and gear lever etc.?

Thanks in advance.


texts:
What considerations should be made for converting a downstem shifting system to barcons? Both the current system and the system that I would like are friction shifters.

The bike is a 1986 Peugeot Iseran 10-speed.

Thanks and be well.


texts: On a magazine i saw a bike with a magnificent frame. I would love to know what model it is. Maybe someone can help me.


texts: Cycling on Manchester Metrolink tram routes

texts:
I have been looking around for information on this topic but can't find anything definitive.

The tram routes through Manchester city centre are for trams (obviously), but it seems public transport can use the tramways as well.  My understanding is that is legal for cyclists to use bus lanes, so does the same apply to the tram routes?

I also seen people cycling on the tramways, but are they actually allowed to do so?  Just because people are doing it doesn't make it legal after all, as plenty of people cycle on the pavements as well (which in Manchester is a special kind of stupidity given how busy the streets are!)

Is there any official policy on the status of the tramways as cycle routes?  I do know that Metrolink are rather hostile to cyclists, and I certainly wouldn't want to lose an argument to a tram whilst on a bike...


texts: Is it OK to bunnyhop on a Kona/Fastrax AF2 while in Lockout Mode?

texts:
I recently got a Kona Tanuki 2012 bike that sports a Kona/Fastrax AF2 Rear Shock. Sometimes while on the road I miss bunnyhopping over things.

Is it wise to lockout the Kona/Fastrax AF2 Rear Shock and bunnyhop like i just don't care? :)
If i over do it, something is going to break?


texts: Inner tubes - if two tubes match the tire, is bigger or smaller better for durability?

texts:
Some of the inner tubes tire thickness ranges overlap. For example Schwalbe often offers tubes in 1.5"-2.4" and 2.1"-3.0" width ranges. Given a tire that fits both ranges, like for example a 2.15" tire, is it better to buy a larger or a smaller tube when it comes to durability?

My intuition tells me that a larger tube will be better, because it will be less stretched, hence thicker, but that's just an intuition.


texts: My chain came out of dérailleur frame, but gap seems too small, am I misunderstanding something?

texts:
So the chain came off my bike on the way to work this morning, but when I tried to put it back on, it seems like it has also come out of the dérailleur frame, but the gap where it seems to have come through is much too small for it to fit back through.

The red arrow shows where there is a kind of metal peg, sticking out from the

There's a gap then, between this metal peg, and the other side of the dérailleur mechanism frame, shown by the blue arrow.

It doesn't seem possible for the chain to fit through this gap, because the gap is too small.

I opened and closed the chain before, so I guess I can do this again, to get it back inside the dérailleur mechanism frame, but what's bothering me is:

Since the chain doesn't fit through the gap, how did it get out through this gap in the first place.
And then, does this apparent impossibility to fit through the gap mean that I'm misunderstanding something about how this is supposed to work?

And the practical question is then: what exactly do I need to do in this situation to fix this problem (as easily as possible).

The chain is not broken.


texts: Why do base kilometers help with time trials?

texts:
Question:
If I want to maintain some objective measure of improvement by keeping track of the time it takes me to do a 40-km round-trip, why is it important to not do a time trial every time (riding every other day), but to vary the workout by introducing longer and shorter trips, and, particularly, to often do the 40-km round-trip at a leisurely pace?
Context and Unlikely Answers:
I have no intention of racing. I'm using time trials as a loose measure of progress mainly because other objective measures (maximum heart rate over the trip when completed in less than a given time; the much more complicated oxygen efficiency measurements) are not quite so straight-forward.
I don't see the parallel in other sports. For instance, 100m/200m sprinters would not practice by running marathons, nor even 1/10th of marathons.
A tennis player who wants to become a better player does need to play leisurely often (with less challenging partners, for example), but that's because the reflexes then improve, making tougher games more easily winnable (by instinct). Improving reflexes is important in cycling, for things such as avoiding falls, but it's unclear why they might help with time trials.
It would be nice to understand what exactly happens when one rides at a leisurely pace, that eventually improves time trials. Do, for example, glycogen stores in muscle cells become gradually capable of storing more (glycogen), hence enabling a more intense workout during a time trial?
Sequels:
Like all good answers, what Michael wrote generates many more questions to help us increase our understanding of the "why" part:

If you've gone to any aerobics class, you'll have noticed that it's a very bad idea to maintain your heartbeat at 170 and immediately leave the studio with a heartbeat dropping down to 70. The workout will take a heavy toll on your body. Instead, it's important to slow down gradually to return your body to the lower energy state. Is something similar happening with cycling? If true: Suppose, for example, that I aim instead for an intense 10-km round-trip (every other day), but do not return until I have cycled 30 more kilometers at a leisurely pace. Does this also count as "periodization"?

Is the idea to simply keep moving at lesser power? Suppose I have a rowing machine sitting unused, or suppose I dabble (also willingly) with tennis. Can I use these alternative activities as the "low power" activities—during rainy days for example? In other words, do the base kilometers really have to be cycling kilometers, rather than running on the court or (virtual) rowing kilometers?

What if I'm not at all aiming for a (yearly) race day? These Tour de France cyclists look like they're a different breed of humans anyway. I just want to maintain a regular, gradual, and possibly very slow, level of improvement. Can I set up my own monthly race day? Is that inherently sub-optimal than a yearly race day? (Or, really digressing, is one yearly race all that the human body can aim for? In particular, do TdF cyclists use the Giro and the Vuelta as merely practice rides? Do they save their real energy for the Tour?)

If you live in Southern Italy and are enjoying cycling year round, you may not quite appreciate the frustration of those of us who have a far shorter season during which to enjoy the thrill. You may not even fathom why we sometime have to think about other than cycling.


texts:
I've recently upgraded my road wheel set on my cross bike to a set of hope hoops which came with hope mono rs hubs. At first they required me to adjust the rear dérailleur so that the shifting was working properly after a few weeks I finally put my cross wheel set in realising that the rear dérailleur required adjustment again. Is this because the hubs are different sizes or my poor mechanical work. The rear hub on my cross wheel set is a tiagra 4600: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-4600-rear-hub/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&utm_source=pla&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=uk&kpid=5360448791

road wheel set: http://www.hopetech.com/product/mono-rs-rear-hub/


texts: Pros and cons of mixed hydraulic/mechanical brakes vs pure hydraulics

texts:
Title of question is self-explanatory.

Recently, it was added to the market brakes that are an hybrid mix between the mechanical Bowden steel cable and hydraulic system, which their oil tank is near the wheel disc.

I just want to know the advantages and disadvantages of this type of brakes over pure hydraulic ones.


texts: Is a garmin oregon series GPS useful as a bike computer for navigation and ride tracking?

texts:
I'm considering purchasing a standalone GPS unit. I've heard good things about the Garmin Oregon series devices for touring since they can be used with commodity batteries.

Is a Garmin Oregon series GPS useful as a bike computer for navigation and ride tracking?

I might want to use it to track rides to upload trails to MtbProject.com or Upload rides to Strava?  I may also want to use this for basic navigation from pre-planned rides downloaded from ridewithgps.com.  I also see myself using the maps for offroad MTB exploring in the national forest near my house.

Navigation, Tracking, and Map availability are more important to me than training features. I'm not fast, I don't care about heart rate / cadence, I just want to know where the hell I'm going and being able to figure out where I went after the fact.

Are these things that will work well with the Oregon series GPS units?


texts: How to tell if a tire should be replaced?

texts: I don’t know how old this tire is. There are small cracks along the sides. In the inside the rubber coating is stripping and peeling. Is this tire still usable? Air has been going out of my tube rapidly lately, in about a day, but I’m not sure it’s from a puncture, maybe a bad valve.


texts: Does the valve have to be straight when replacing a tube?

texts:
I've just replaced the tube on my bike and when I pumped it the valve wasn't particularly straight as can be seen in the image below.

What I'm wondering is do I need to remove the tube and straighten it before use? I assume it wouldn't be any harm to do so but if there is nothing wrong with the way it is I'll save myself the effort. I'm going to be cycling it in the morning so I said I better ask before I do.


texts: What size rotor does the Cannondale CAAD10 2015 have?

texts:
I have a Cannondale CAAD 10 disc frame and a pair of BB7s that are 160mm rotors.

They do not fit because (I think) I need post mount spacers.

What size rotor does the frame expect, and hence, what size spacers do I need?


texts: Any luck using a 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove crank arms off a taper bb?

texts: Is there anyone who has had luck using a 2 or 3 arm crank puller to remove the crank arms off a tapered bottom bracket?


texts: Can I remove one spring from my suspension fork?

texts:
my new below-entry-level MTB came with a basic coil-spring front suspension, with 2 super firm/rigid springs. 2 new soft springs would cost like $50, so I was wondering, can you simply remove a spring from one side, thus effectively halving the spring rate?

Look, I made a fancy picture too :)


texts: is biking lower wacker drive in Chicago a good/feasable idea?

texts:
Not sure if location specific questions are on topic here but, here goes:

I live in Chicago, and I'm curious about biking Lower Wacker Drive. (If you're not from Chicago, it's where the underground scenes were shot in Batman: The Dark Knight). It never seemed like the best idea, but
1. It is easily the most direct route between my house and work and back
2. I do occasionally see bikers on it when I'm driving down there

Specifically I am interested in the chunk between Harrison and Franklin to Lower Michigan and Illinois (which is a fairly large chunk).

Lower Wacker is a multilevel street that runs through downtown along the
Chicago river. Since it's underground, it doesn't intersect with a lot of streets, making it an ideal shortcut through downtown if you know your way around. They don't specifically have a bike lane, but I do see bikers down here from time to time.

The obvious risks are that there is no bike lane; I tend to prefer routes that offer a bike lane, and since there are typically few to 0 bikers down here, drivers are likely not used to looking out for bikers.

Is it a horrible idea to bike here? Is it reasonable if I am paying close attention and taking care to be aware of my surroundings? I would especially value a response from someone who has experience biking down here.


texts:
I have a 5 year old Merida Ride 100, which has done about 5000km. It mostly has been in dry conditions, but has seen some wet conditions once in a while. After the last ride, I noticed some grinding sound from the lower end of the fork. It felt like grime stuck between the bearing and fork (the bike has caged bearings on both upper and lower side of the fork).
I removed the fork and there was indeed a lot of grime in there. I cleaned the bearings, fork and the headset thoroughly with a degreaser (WD-40). Wiped it clean again with a rag, inspected that they were spotless. I then applied grease (Park Tool HPG 1) on the bearings and the headset and reassembled the the headset again.
The sound has now reduced, but I can still hear some sound when the handlebar is turned, but only at certain angles.
This is the only pic I took before I reassembled everything back again (if it helps):

The next thing I suspect are the bearings themselves. Could worn bearings be cause of such grinding noise (sounds somewhat like metal/grime on metal)?
Any other suggestions as to what could be going on here?
Thanks!


texts:
I need to replace the front derailleur on my friends bike, this one is old and rusted, its a shimano FD M191. I've read a bit about what I need to know before I buy a new one but I just wanted to be sure before I make the plunge. Please excuse my newbiness...

The current one has a down pulling cable fix and serves 3 cogs, from what I gather these are the only factors that I have to ensure my new derailleur caters for. Is this correct? Can anyone recommend me something sub $30 that would work, and is there anything else I need to consider?

Thanks.


texts: Advantages with longer seatpost in the seat tube?

texts:
I am about to buy a new seatpost and I am wondering what's the ideal length. The one I have now is 33cm long, even though it only sticks out of 10cm from the frame (measured from the seat collar to the saddle rail).

Because of that, I thought a 25cm seatpost would be a better match and I would save in weight. The question is:

  Is there any advantage in having a longer seatpost?

Notice I am assuming the size of the frame and height of the rider is fixed here, so I am only talking about the lenght of the seatpost that's hidden inside the frame. The only thing I could think about is that a longer seatpost is subject to less torque.


texts: Will chain spray evaporate from its can when unused?

texts: My bike chain cleaning spray has evaporated from its can while I stored it in my room after having closed it normally. I have used it only four times. Actually about a half of the bottle should be there, but it has evaporated. Is this possible? How and why?


texts: How dirty should the chain and the cogs be before I should consider cleaning them?

texts:
I'm new to bicycling and have been riding for a month or so. I just saw a few questions here regarding cleaning of the chain and thought "whoa, I should clean the chain".

How dirty (visually) should the chain and cogs be before I should consider cleaning them (pictures are welcome)?

UPDATE

I use my bike on daily basis for commuting, 4-6km a day.
As of weather: I live in Florida, Fort Walton Beach. You can take a brief look at the temperature and humidity history on wolframalpha (consider changing range to "Past Year" for better overview).
It's pretty clean here though.

Here are the photos of the chain and cogs that represent condition after a month of riding:

The chain is definitely not dry, I can feel the lubricant if I touch them.
Should I consider clearning/relubricating them?


texts: What kind of panniers is this tubus rack flange for?

texts: I was bolting on my Tubus Nova front rack and noticed that there were bolt holes on the bottom of it, and got to wondering what they are for.  The instructions are mostly in pictures and just show that it is to attach this little flange "for panniers".  I'm mostly familiar with Ortlieb-style panniers that clip on the top and a sideways hook below.  What kind of pannier attachment would use this sort of thing?


texts: Does the price difference between a Brompton and a budget folding bicycle represent quality

texts:
I understand the difference between a cheap and expensive road bike as I have owned one of each. My question relates to an example of two polar-opposite folding bicycles; a budget £129 bike and a £759.99 Brompton.

Is the £630.99 price difference a result of better components or is the Brompton brand the justification?

Is there a minimum price that needs to be paid to ensure that a folding bicycle doesn't contain budget components?


texts: Which brake should I use, on a full suspension bike, if I broke my brake lever

texts: I broke my back brake lever, and I want to use only one brake, which should I use the front or the back?


texts: I live in a small town home and have limited indoor bike storage. The space that I do have outdoors is too small for products like the tidy tent. Any recommendations?


texts: Newly mended inner tube went down within 15 minutes of pumping up and without any riding or even sitting on bike. Handpump only so no idea of pressure. What did I do wrong/ how can I avoid it happening again?


texts: Custom bike to offer smoothest possible ride on bad roads

texts:
So, I am in a peculiar situation - due to an injury, shaking in any direction leads to pain and my condition is improving very slowly. I'm looking to find/customize a bike so that it offers me the smoothest possible ride on the unfortunately poorly maintained roads in my city.

Today I have a Cirrus Cycles suspension seat post and low pressure on my tires (which I also exchanged for fatter ones) and that helps to an extent, but my current bike is a hybrid with no suspension.

I think that a full-suspension bike would greatly help, but wonder what I have to look for to make sure I can tune it to smooth out road irregularities as opposed to the harsh falls of mountain biking.

Do you have recommendations as to what kinds of bikes or kinds of shocks I should be looking for? Or anything else? Thanks!

edit from comments:
First the road conditions. The following types of irregularities exist:

concrete slab roads where over time slabs have settled at varying heights. sometimes the change in elevation from slab to slab is as much as 2-3 inches, which is similar to falling off a small curb.
potholes and cracks in the pavement with a depth of up to 4 inches as well. some are avoidable, some are not.
gradual dips in asphalt road surface - sometimes parts of the road sink without an abrupt edge, like a soft pothole
raised linear sections caused by tree roots under asphalt pavement


texts: How to keep a component "pressed" so the chain remains hooked?

texts:
I am really at a loss of words to describe my problem, so apologies in advance for the poor choice of words in the title.

Basically I have this component at the rear wheel (which I think is called rear derailleur):

and how far it is from the spokes of the wheel is controlled by the springs(?).
The trouble I have (as it seems) is that this component is too "loose" causing the chain to not be able to catch on to the component's "wheel" properly.

Compare:

Not pressed:

Pressed in:

And notice how in the former case, the chain doesn't lie flush with the "component"'s metal wheel. So that when I cycle the pedals, the chain always unhooks and causes a jam.

Is there any screw etc. that I can adjust to keep the component "pressed in", presumably something to do with the spring..


texts:
I just bought my first set of tires. They were of the folding type.
Even after unfolding and leaving them overnight they still had kinks in the bead. It is a bit unsightly but that isn't the issue. Do the kinks affect the way they should be installed?


texts: Does rim size make a difference to chain length?

texts:
I plan to upgrade my bike to 1x10 from a 1x7. I also want to learn how to build a wheel.

In order to archive this I need to change the hub on the rear wheel, but I am waiting for the hub I need to arrive.

I plan to use my spare thin 650b wheelset then install my chain so I can ride in the meantime. Does the difference in rim size affect the chain line so much I won't be able to use my 700c wheel once I have built it?

I plan to take it to a place in stockport so I can be supervised.


texts:
Do I need to be concerned with the difference between a:

VP BC73 (https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/gears-drivetrain-and-cables/vp-bc73-68-x-122.5-square-taper-cartridge-bottom-bracket-271445.html)

and

VP BC73A (https://www.tredz.co.uk/.VP-Components-VP-Sealed-Bottom-Bracket-Cartridge-Alloy-Cups_118565.htm?sku=452354)

apart from the difference in length of 2.5 mm (120 vs 122.5)?


texts: What's the real difference between cheap and expensive helmets?

texts: Is there any real difference between the cheap and expensive cycling helmets? Is it really worth buying a helmet at say 3 or 4 times the price of a cheap helmet? Will that helmet really give you 3 or 4 times more protection?


texts:
Being faced with a wheel with these devilish things, I'm wondering how people keep them from twisting when tweaking the nipples.  I've been using a pair of Vice Grips, but that's clumsy and seems a bit crude for such exotic items.

Anyone got a better idea?

Note:  These are Easton spokes which are round, with the nipples in the rim (not "backwards" like some fancy rims).  The stub end is very slightly flattened, but there's no practical way to reach that end when the spokes are in place on the hub.

Aside:  I'll note that the Easton hub I've been working on is the devil incarnate.  To do any adjustment of the drive-side spokes one must first (per the manufacturer and my experience) de-tension the non-drive-side spokes 3-4 turns, then re-tension after the drive side is fixed.  Otherwise the drive-side nipples round over.


texts: I'd like to know what technique/s to use to get both the most height, and the most distance from a dirt jump. The stock image below is the kind of dirt jump I'm referring to.


texts: Oval p-clamps for front rack mounting in fork

texts: I would love to find some oval p-clips to mount a small front rack on a bicycle without any eyletes. Are there any available? Or any other solution?


texts: New 26" inner tube different size to old 26" inner tube

texts:
The new 26" MTB inner tube is much bigger than my 26" wheel (and old 26" MTB inner tube). I don't understand why. How to shopcorrectly for new tube?

The bike is 1990s Raleigh mountain bike.

Edit: the new tube is very loose both deflated and inflated. The new tube specs are 26 x 1.5 / 1.75 / 2.125 F/V according to the box and tyre

The old tube was 26 x 1.50 / 2.25 according to its box.


texts: I've used the Ascent fluid trainer for a few years now. My bike is stuck on the trainer. I've applied WD-40. When I turn the adjustment knob, the rear wheel isn't being released. Any ideas? Please help!


texts: What are some other places to buy MTB frames online?

texts:
I am looking for sites that sell bike frames online. i find many sites list all things (forks) but stop short with frames.

The best places I have found are:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/
and
http://www.jensonusa.com/

Open to places that only sell their own brand but more after places which stock many brands.

I am looking at the low-end of the price range too

Also i am located in Australia. Thank you.


texts: What are the advantages of a building an electric bike from a kit vs. prebuilt

texts:
I'm trying to decide on what would be the best option for me for my first electric bike. I need a way to get around, and as I live on a hill where I will have to manage a fairly steep incline coming and going I am wondering what kind of bike I should get.

There is a bike on Craigslist right now with a 36V 12amp battery and 500-750Watt motor, but as it is a Huffy bike I am pretty sure it is a kit build. They are asking 700. -- My other option is the Kickstarter kit by Barak Electric (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1354698863/barak-electric-bicycle-conversion-kit-electrify-yo) that has a 500 watt motor and 36V 10amph battery, and as I already have a mountain bike laying around I could install it myself and it would cost 655. I have no idea what they would be charging in a couple years when the Lithium batteries die for replacements, but I'm sure I could figure that out then. I don't have a ton of money, so going to a bike shop isn't really an option even though I would love the security of being able to return it if it doesn't work. I was looking into the Currie Electric bikes as they seem quite reasonable, but it doesn't look as though they will have enough power to get me anywhere with their small wattage and SLA batteries (not to mention to upgrade to Lithium with Currie is basically the price of the bike!)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


texts: recommended clothing for compromise betwee office and and biking home on a race bike?

texts:
I recently started riding to work again. I'm using a hybrid (they're called that way. its a sporty bicycle with full gears and tires between city and mtb type tires) now, but i want to use my racing bike for it. however cycling in normal office clothes can get quite uncomfortable for the crotch because of the lower race position. I was wondering if there is a reasonable compromise possible. Like a company that makes clothes (specifically pants) for cycling commuters or something.

I cannot go full lycra because the facilites for changing clothes aren't there.


texts: Which is faster, going all out then burning out, or steady pace all along?

texts: I know in a race, pacing is key so you can always have your power for the last sprint/climbs and ultimately at least finish the race. However, strictly speaking on a solo ride let's say 10 km, and in both of these cases you do finish. Is going all out then burning out and still forcing yourself to keep going, is slower or faster, than having steady sweet spot pace? why?


texts:
For road racing in the US, USA Cycling has women divided into four categories (4,3,2,1) and men divided into five categories (5,4,3,2,1). The procedures for category upgrades for 4-3, 3-2 and 2-1 are the same for men and women, but only men have this extra "category 5", where the typical way to upgrade 5-4 is to simply finish a certain number of mass start races. Women don't have an equivalent "experience-only" category.

Why don't women in the US have a Category 5, like the men?


texts: Why aren't most suspension bikes extremely long travel?

texts:
Considering that all mid-range rear shocks have a setting to limit the travel (called oil gate CTD or equivalent?), why wouldn't most frames be designed for extremely long travel?
What is the biggest factor that influences this?

Is is it that a frame with compromising geometry between cross-country and downhill geometry (head tube angle, chain stay length) can't exist?
Is it because of the added weight?
Is it because many people ride cross-country and don't imagine they will ever enjoy rougher sections of the trail?
Maybe the price is the main reason?


texts: What is the best charging practice for my bike light's lithium ion battery?

texts: I have a Light and Motion Seca 700 with a Lithium Ion battery.  It has a multi-chem smart charger.  I have heard that some batteries like NiMH have "memory" and should be mostly drained before recharging, while a LiIon battery is not supposed to have "memory."  How should I charge the battery to insure a long run time and battery life?


texts:
Can anyone recommend a good bike mount for the iPhone 4?

There seem to be a lot of reviews for the old models.

Update: I'm mounting this on a Trek 1.5 Triple with Bontrager SSR VR bars.

Update: I've heard horror stories about phones popping out of mounts so having it secure would be good, waterproofing is a plus as well.


texts: Finding a rim to swap in on a damaged wheel

texts:
I have a rear wheel with a 29" WTP STp i25 rim.  The rim is irreparably damaged, but the wheel is otherwise in good condition.  The spokes are not affected, the hub is great, and the wheel was pretty new when it was damaged.  It's been hanging in my garage as I mull over what to do with it.  I think I'd like to rebuild it.  If I could find an identical rim, I would (in very broad strokes) just need to undo the spokes (probably tying them together in such a way as to make the rest of the job a little quicker), re-lace onto the new rim, dish/tension, retension, voila!
The problem is that I can't find another one of those rims.  I can find a couple of i29 rims, I think, but not the i25.  So, my question:  For my brilliant scheme to work, don't I just need another rim with the identical ERD?  Or is there more to it?  My goal is to repurpose as much as possible of the current wheel into the new build.


texts: How come pairs are slower than solo riders at the Transcontinental Race?

texts:
As far as I understand, the control points are the same for pairs and individuals, so they both race a comparable length (the precise length will depend on the routing skill of the riders).

However the first man pair at TCR6 (Charles Christiansen and Nico Deportago-Cabrera) finished in 13d 20h 25m, whereas the first man individual (James Hayden) finished in 8d 22h 59m. Riders in pair should have an advantage as they are allowed to draft each other. There is also the advantage of morally supporting each other, which I believe it's very important in such a long race. How come are they slower instead?

The only explanations I can give are: higher probability of mechanical problems for the pairs and less competition in terms of riders that sign up. Or am I missing something else? Do they have more restrictive rules perhaps?

Note: This is being asked for curiousity, but I want to point out that I am a huge fan of Chas and Nico (the winner pair) and I have enormous respect for the spirit with which they approached the race.

Note 2: Here I am only talking about the minimum time of the riders, not average time (I don't have data for that).

Edit I looked into statistics of moving vs stopping time of the above-mentioned riders. Assuming that I am interpreting the tracker stats correctly, here is the info:

                  Chas-Nico    James
moving time       8:15:38      7:05:04
stopping time     5:06:37      1:18:24

This seems to validate @ChrisH's hypotesis in the comments that the biggest difference is in the stopping time.


texts: Are MIPS helmets actually any safer than standard helmets? Independent Research?

texts:
A friend just told me about a relatively new bike helmet technology that reduces torsion (rotational) stress in a bike accident. My wife is a speech therapist (and I write speech therapy software) so I'm well aware that tearing is more damaging than concussive forces.

It's called MIPS: Multi-directional Impact Protection System.

But, I'm not convinced the MIPS system actually improves on that. The only independent research I've seen a citation to is in swedish.
And the next best research was on motorcycle helmets


texts: Is my dream of finding a light/commuter/hauling bike a pipe dream?

texts:
For a while now I have been trying to find the perfect bike. One that is fast and allows me to ride 20 mph for 50 mi. One that I can load stuff on and has braze-ons for racks, fenders, etc. A bike that does not punish you for riding more then 40 mi.

So my question is does this bike exist? Is there a bike out there that will suit all of my needs or will I need multiple bikes for every occasion?


texts: Is it legal to pass a car on the right when that car is turning?

texts:
So I've been poring over the bikes SE, and as a recreational biker and an automobile commuter, I'm naturally most interested in topics addressing how bikes interact with automotive traffic.

In one particular question I noticed that it's legal in some jurisdictions for a biker to pass cars on the right at an intersection in order to move ahead of them.

This really surprised me, and it brought up a related question: is it legal to pass a car on the right when that car is making a right turn?? (In other words, a bike passing a car in such a way that if both maintain their intended path, they would collide.)

That may sound like a stupid question, but I have actually seen this twice in the last year. In one instance, I was the driver and I could see the bike approaching from behind at a distance. As I slowed to make my right turn, I glanced back at him and I could see that he was not slowing down. I slammed on the brakes and narrowly missed him as he whizzed by me on the right. I was in the right turn lane, he was originally directly behind me in the same lane, and there is no bike lane on that street.

In an earlier incident, I was walking my dog when I saw a car and bike collide under nearly identical circumstances. The biker was not injured badly but he did wipe out. I found myself sympathizing with the driver more than the biker. The driver was obviously not prepared for somebody to pass her on the right at 15MPH while she was making a right hand turn from the right lane.

Was his bike maneuver legal? Does the driver owe a biker that right of way? And if a driver hits a biker in this scenario, is the driver legally liable?


texts: 9 speed Shimano shifter with 7 speed drivetrain

texts:
Can I use a 9 speed shifter with a 7 speed drivetrain, with good shifting and without needing complex adaptations?

I am considering that as an alternative for this need:

Using only the brake lever, separated from an integrated shifter/brake

Suitable Shimano integrated shifter/brake replacement for old STX

Shimano STX rear shifter, broken spring

Assuming that is ok, are there 9 speed shifters integrated with brake levers for cantilever brakes? I have mostly seen 9-speed brifters for disc or V-brakes, but not for cantilever.

PS: There are posts related to 8 speed shifters with a 7 speed drivetrain, but I have not seen anything for 9 speed shifters

8 speed shifter with 7 speed cassette

Can you use a 8 speed Shimano shifter with a 7 speed cassette?


texts: How can I gauge what angle I can safely ride at on a downhill curve?

texts:
On a Strava segment featuring a 80-100m-long, 40-50m radius curve going downhill on a paved road at about 8-10%, I make generous use of my brakes out of fear of wiping out on my 23mm, fairly slick road tires. Because of this, my 30-second time is almost double that of the KOM, which seems borderline unsafe from my point of view.

I suppose this is actually two questions:

Is it likely that the KOM has some special downhill setup on his road bike?
If not, what are some best practices to quickly go down a downhill curve on a road bike without losing traction/having a wipeout/otherwise having a bad day?


texts: How much cable can I pull with a brake lever in another custom mechanism, and how can I achieve it?

texts:
I am not sure if this is the correct community for the answer, but since this part is about a bicycle part, I thought it's okay. If this is better posted in physics, or anywhere else, please let me know.

I am working in a custom mechanism for a cosplay prop (which is not relevant here, if you want to know, it's the blades from Attack on Titan). I need to pull a pair of pieces, that work in a lock mechanism. They lock themselves around the piece that goes inside the mechanism with springs, and the way of freeing the object is pulling from them, with the same mechanism as a brake lever.

The matter is that I need that pieces to travel back about 2 cm, which is the length of the pieces, and I don't know if it is posible to pull that length of cable with a simple brake lever (long, I suppose) that I can buy. Would it depend on the length of the lever? The tyoe of lever? The angle? All of them?


texts: What the difference between k050 and k124

texts:
I have an old kids bike. It has been in our family for at least 30+ years.
However it was left in the rain by the our resisdent bike killer.  Its a bloody mess so unless am told otherwise i think its best to buy a new rear wheel

But am unsure the difference between the two sizes.
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Kenda-Kids-12-inch-Tyres_40597.htm


texts: How to make sure that the brake cable anchor bolt properly holds the cable?

texts:
I am referring to the bolt, in the V-brake, that holds the cable on the opposite side of the noodle (as in this question). Yesterday I loosened that bolt to take the wheel off (I learned later that there is an easier way, it is enough to take out the noodle), and even though I fastened it again after putting the wheel back, I don't know how to check if I did it properly enough, and that the cable won't just come loose while I ride and cause the brake to stop working. Of course, I tried the brakes a couple of times, even while circling on the bike, and they seemed ok. But the question remains:
Is there a way to make sure that the cable will never come off from under the bolt? I.e., that 1.) it seats deep enough (and with enough of its surface *) under the bolt AND 2.) that the bolt is tight enough?
* Another question I asked myself is: why is (was) the cable guided only on the top and side of the bolt? Why not give it a full turn, so that it has more surface under the bolt? Would the only problem be, that then it would be sticking upwards, instead of downwards?
N.B.: Even though in this case I unfastened and fastened it (although it was not necessary to do so), the question could apply to many other scenarios (installing new brakes, making sure a newly bought bike, or a bike unused for a long time are safe, ...)


texts: Dynamo cutting out after a couple of seconds

texts:
This sounds like I've an electrical issue, but no idea of next steps.

I have a Gazelle Tour Populair with what I believe is a Busch & Müller LYT Lumotec Retro front dynamo-powered light.

When starting to move the light comes on, but quickly cuts off for the rest of the journey.

The shop have already replaced the light with a new one, and same issue.

Could it be a power build-up somehow?


texts: If I report intentional dangerous driving to police, will it have any effect?

texts:
Today I was riding ~3 feet out from parked cars (dooring is the most common way to get killed) and this pickup truck comes up behind me and just lays on its horn for an entire block. The driver was also revving his engine and coming within a foot or two of my back wheel.

The driver intentionally cut me off forcing me to swerve to avoid the back of their truck. As he passed me the passenger rolled down his window and informed me (using very crude language) that I should get off the road.

I have had three or four incidents like this in the last year and I am getting increasingly infuriated by them.  They have all been on residential streets that drivers are using to avoid the city's arteries.  I do my best to be courteous and don't accept this behaviour.

I think that I need to do something so that I don't end up throwing my bike through someone's windshield doing something inappropriate.

I have been considering getting a camera on my bike but wonder if this would be useful.

Question:  Has anyone ever contacted their local police regarding aggressive drivers?  Were the police helpful?  Would video evidence be useful?  (I suspect that a camera would help to remember an aggressive driver's information even if video evidence was not required by the police).

Question: In the case of an accident would video evidence be useful to press criminal charges against a driver?  If I am injured would video evidence be useful if I wanted to seek damages in civil court?

I live in Ontario, Canada.

Related: "Is complaining to companies about bad driving like howling at the moon?"


texts: Replacement compatability for Shimano Mountain LX Chainring and or Crankset

texts: I need to replace Shimano Mountain LX Biopace Chainrings with 48/38/28 110 bcd and am having difficulty finding replacement chainrings, particularly the center chainring 38T. It appears Mountain LX is rare and I would like to know what other Shimano (Deore) or other chainrings or complete cranksets are compatible.


texts: Why would a bike feature a "carbon wrapped aluminum frame"?

texts: I saw a link to what appeared to be a Carbon bike on amazon.  The price was extremely lower than any carbon bike I had ever seen.  After reading a bit, it seems that the bike frame is really made of "carbon fibre wrapped aluminum". What advantages would wrapping an aluminum frame in carbon have compared to just a regular aluminum bike.  Is it just to get a carbon look bike more cheaply, or does it allow you to use a narrower aluminum frame, with carbon taking up some stress, creating a frame with a weight somewhere between carbon and aluminum?


texts: What are these mounts for on inside edge of carbon fiber fork?

texts:
I just got a new Tommaso Sterrata.

I commute during the winter so I'm looking to put fenders on. I know I can get fenders that clip onto the fork instead of being mounted, but while inspecting the fork, I found these two screws on the inside edge of the fork.

What are they for? What are they supposed to do, and what can I do with them. Would it be feasible to mount the fender stays on them?


texts:
General question:

The rear tire of my mtb runs too close to the chainstays. If the trail is even remotely muddy, the mud buildup on the chainstay clogs the front derailleur and the chain begins to skip/drop. What can I do to remedy the situation, preferrabli without going to skinnier tires.

More details on the problem:

This is a custom build of Bontager XR4 2.35 tires on Mach1 MAD 25C rims, mounted on a Dartmoor Hornet frame. The problem is that the seat stays are WIDER than the chain stays. Consequently, any accumulated mud instead of getting scraped off harmlessly by the seat stays and falling to the side, gets trapped onto the chainstays and into the front derailleur.

PS: Please refrain from comments on not riding muddy trails - I know I would errode them! My riding is XC marathon type, with a few muddy sections around a lake and some streams.


texts: Why is my abdomen much cooler than the rest of my body after a ride?

texts:
Background

Not having ridden more than a few miles each day in over a year, I wanted to start exercising again with a short-medium ride (~15km/~9.5 miles). I did so over the course of an hour this morning. The area I ride in is known for its hills (I'm not sure what the grades/elevation changes are, but some of them are very tough.)

I ate a few bites of a Cliff Bar along the way and drank about 12oz of the 24oz of ice water I carried.

Observations

When I returned and began stretching before I showered, I noticed that the skin around my belly/abdomen was much cooler than the rest of my body.

Thoughts

[The following are my guesses at the answer to the question, none of which I'm entirely satisfied with. A good answer will not only address the title question but also address these thoughts.]

At first I thought this was simply the result of the body diverting blood from my stomach to my legs, in order to keep them oxygenated as I climbed.

However, I also know that the body needs to circulate blood between around the stomach to transfer excess heat to the ice water I drink; equivalently, the blood needs to reach the stomach to be cooled off so that, in circulating, it cools the rest of my body. Why then was my stomach not warm?

Then I considered that perhaps the body was diverting some resources to keeping the stomach cool in order to allow it to continue to process and absorb the ice water: intuitively, this makes some sense. Warm water on a ride seldom gets absorbed by the stomach, or so I've been told.

I suppose the coolness could simply be the result of the ice water—but this indicates that either the cold was not being spread to the rest of my body, or that it was maintained as a sort of "ice pack" at my core.


texts: What happens when a bike has not had maintenance for a long time?

texts:
I recently traded my Kent BMX bike I got from Wal-Mart:

for a Ross road bike ).

My friend tells me the bike sat in his back yard collecting rust, I see it has rust on the chain, the gears, brake lines and the chrome handlebars. The bike rides ok but the gear shifts need a good push and pull with my thumb to work. I know the bike has had no maintenance in a very long time so I was wondering what should I do?


texts:
I have a lot of sweat in all straps and padding in my helmet.

When i ride in heavy rain the salt from my sweat starts dripping down my face. Its very unpleasant especially if it goes in my mouth.

How can I get rid of this salt?


texts: Tools and spares needed to repair a chain on the road

texts:
I'm increasingly riding long-distance randonees/audaxes and I'm pretty confident I can fix most simple things which might go wrong with the bike. However, I've never done anything with a chain apart from clean it and would like to be prepared enough to be able to effect some kind of repair if it broke, even if I ended up single-speed.

I have an 11-speed Campagnolo Chorus chain. I'm considering getting this chain tool, but what spare pins or other kit would I need? I'd prefer not to carry a whole spare chain due to the weight and space.


texts: Is the use of wide fatbike tires problematic with 100mm BSA bottom brackets?

texts: Fatbike frames typically come with 100mm or 120mm BSA BBs. Does the 120mm BB help anything, though? For example, if I have a 100mm bottom bracket and a 5" tire on a 100mm rim, and I switch to the largest cog of an Eagle 1x12 setup, will the chain start scratching the tire? Or will there be adequate clearance?


texts: How much faster can i go after moving from 2x10 to a 3x10 gear setup?

texts:
My 26" mountain bike currently has a 2x10 gear setup with SRAM components: a SRAM S-1250 crank with 38/24 chainrings, and a SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36t cassette. I feel that when riding on non-technical dirt trails I am maxing out my drive-train, meaning that I am not able to accelerate beyond a certain speed when riding the 'hardest' gear.
I have been reading about the Shimano 3x10 system which may allow me to reach higher speeds, due to higher possible transfer ratios. So, how much faster can I with a 3x10 setup? please elaborate on the math in your answer...


texts: Describe main criteria of choosing energy-conserving bicycle that allows getting easily up-hill

texts: It's summer now and it's hot. The way to my office is up-hill (half of the way is off-road). With my health it's not a good idea to work hard physically in such whether. And there is no shower in office. So could you please describe main criteria of choosing a bicycle that allows getting up-hill with less effort? I mean the tradeoff between speed and force - I want to reduce force. I would appreciate two options (without engine): less and more expensive.


texts: Can I avoid falling in the rain on a corner?

texts:
I was riding in the rain a few months ago and fell turning a 90° corner. Here are the details:

Riding on a road bike with new 25mm smooth tires inflated to 100 psi (Cannondale Synapse with Continental Gatorskins inflated to 690 kilopascal)
It had been raining for at least an hour, but was not raining hard at the time of the fall
There was no obvious oil or other liquids around, no dirt or other substances
There was no strong wind and the temperature was well above freezing
I was coasting at about 10 mph (16 km/h) around a corner on smooth asphalt
I weigh 210 lbs (95 kg)
I fell to my inside, right side
The fall was immediate with no dramatic skidding or sliding

Here is a photo of the corner, with a red square where I slipped:

I was surprised to discover that the smooth tires are not particularly the culprit in my fall, as bicycle tires for on-road use have no need of any sort of tread features; in fact, the best road tires are perfectly smooth, with no tread at all.

(Edit: Per multiple comments and answers, the above link is not specific to wet surfaces and the assertion that no tread is optimal does not apply here. It appears treads should help with wet surfaces.)

I live in a desert climate so I haven't had much experience with slippery roads, and none since that accident. Is there anything I could have done to avoid falling, or do I simply need to avoid any wet, asphalt surfaces?


texts:
I saw this.  However, looking at a old 7 speed freehub body, it looks like it takes a special spline wrench (TL-FH10).  It looks very similar to the fixing bolt here.  Or do I need some other wrench to remove it using the notch?  I also did see this.

Do I need this special tool to remove this freehub body or am I totally off?  Is there some other way to remove it without destroying it?

UPDATE: The freehub body does not have notches on it.  I will post a picture of it.


texts: MTB: choosing trajectory (line) through a turn

texts:
Consider a 3 meter wide track, the incline is 30 degrees, the terrain is dirt road with some sand, rocks, maybe mud. An at least 90 degree turn is approaching, and you have clear visibility of the whole turn.
How do you choose consciously (and with practice subconsciously) your path through the turn, in order to minimize loss of speed? What factors affect the decision and in what way?

TL;DR
So here is the scenario. The incline is constant 30 degrees. A and B indicate the terrains on both sides of the track.

What effect on the decision has the estimate how much is A and B dangerous? For example, if B is a 100m drop, and A is lush field.

Here is an example of taking the turn entirely on the outer edge. This has the effect of increasing the turning radius. On the other hand, one slip and the bike leaves the track.

On the other extreme, here is an example of taking the turn as tightly as possible.

Further, if there is another turn very near, the exit line of the first turn directly affects the attack line of the second turn. What are the strategies to deal with a double turn?


texts: Road bike getting punctured often on poor roads

texts:
I brought my road bike to Mumbai where the roads are pretty bad (lots of potholes, gravel...), I've been getting a puncture roughly every 2 weeks. The tires are about 6 months old. They are a bit worn out, but people I ask here say it's fine.

What are my options to deal with this? Should I line the tire with old tubes?


texts: Able to shift to final gear on bike, but not on smart trainer

texts:
I own a Trek Crossrip LTD 2016 edition bike with a SRAM 11-32 cassete in the back. I also recently purchased a wahoo kickr core to go along with the bike. When the bike has the wheel in and not connected to the trainer, I am able to get into the highest cog in the rear cassette, but when I plug it into the trainer it will only shift to gear before the final gear. I am trying to figure out what can be done to get it to shift into the hardest gear.
I took it to my local bike shop yesterday and paid 30 dollars for the mechanic to take a look at it because my efforts to adjust the derailleurs front and back seemed to not help and I noticed there was a tendency to skip gears when I shift. This skipping gears has gone away, but I am still not able to get into the last gear on just the trainer. I verified yesterday before leaving the shop that I was able to shift into the final cog in the street.
Both Cassettes are 11-32 SRAM with the only difference being the cassette on my trainer is a 1030 model vs a 1050. I am told this is mostly a weight difference.
Also I noticed that between the 4th and 3rd highest gear is where there is a dead shift. For example, if I am in the 4th hardest gear I have to shift twice to get to the 3rd. Then the final shift gets me into the 2nd. There are then no more shifts to take me to the first.
Should I not worry to much about this and use it as is? I would like to use the full range of gears on the trainer if possible. Is it possible that the indexing could need to be reworked or that a dirty cassette could be the issue? My bikes cassette is quite dirty, but I am hesitant to clean it if that means I need to re-index everything.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to help me with this.
Update: I decided to ride it a bit and discovered that the chain skips over the top back jockey wheel to make a clicking noise. I took a photo/video of it and will update a link shortly for those interested.. Going to put the main wheel back on after that and see if it has the same issue.
Update: I put my normal wheel back on, I don't hear the clicking of the jockey wheel, but I see the chain skipping.
Update: Here are images/video. My cat photobombed
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19sZimEvZ4Lr4QODWwqeLaavduzU4_Go1/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BfDo7MmizYbC8wVO8IV_xtwoB9JVxw-u/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JPCbQodQEJ_ItYOGOuSAWbUqeCS_cF8p/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L9MoBYhuimpJgd9MZF3tdE2wKH15PTHX/view?usp=sharing


texts: Can I replace Record bottom bracket with Shimano?

texts:
My Gios Torino carbon bike uses a Record bottom bracket, but those are so hard to get in Nigeria where I live. I've seen a Shimano bottom bracket but I don't know if it will match with the threading of my bike. I've not tried it but I've not been able to use my bike for some time. Buying a new Record bb would be very expensive, and is not in my state which means I have to order it either on Ebay or Amazon and pay international shipping.

Will the Shimano work? That would make me so happy


texts: Upgrade/Replacement options for Cannondale Headshok DD50?

texts:
I have an older Cannondale that I love.

It's an F600 comp (the special edition one in pumpkin orange), with a DD50 front shock.

The problem is that the DD50 is WORN as all heck. Even when locked out, it has "give" to it and makes noises that just worry me...

I ride the bike every day and the worn shock is not a deal breaker - but it sure is annoying.

From what I read, getting an old (1996?) Headshok serviced is next to impossible - and quite expensive.

So I'm looking at options and suggestions. Here are a couple options I've come up with so far :

Get a headset adapter and use a 1 1/8" rigid fork.
Get a headset adapter and find a cheap 1 1/8" suspension fork.
I've found a cheap ($100) RST Deuce fork on eBay (1.5")...that seems like it would be pretty much a bolt-on deal. Other than the fact that it I think the axle would be too large to fit my existing front hub.

What do you guys/gals think? What would you recommend? What are the pros and cons of each option?

If it matters - this is my daily commuter/fun bike.


texts: Failing hub bearings on a beater bike (freewheel) -- time to replace the bike?

texts:
I run an old Raleigh Michigan that only does about 12 miles per week and lives outside a station mostly exposed to the elements.  While replacing the rear derailleur cable yesterday (it had almost completely frayed through) I noticed a lot of play in the rear wheel.  This must have developed over the last couple of months because I fixed a puncture about that long ago and it was OK then.

It's definitely the wheel bearings because if I tighten them the wobble goes away but the rotation becomes stiff and notchy.  It's a freewheel with a 6 speed cluster and a 3/8 axle.  A new hub (assuming I can get one to fit) would cost about as much as the bike is worth and I'd have to rebuild the wheel complete with rather rubbish steel rim.  A new wheel wouldn't cost much more -- except it would be a freehub so I'd need a cassette (I'd get something like a tourney 7 speed and only use 6 with my existing derailleur.  I'd also have to consider how to get a compatible axle.

I suspect the bike is fit only to be a donor bike or part of a frankenbike but I'm hoping I have another option.


texts:
Nowadays there are so many different high-tech materials, so I wonder if there is a suitable material for bicycle locks that would be much less heavy than hardened steel. If there isn't one, can somebody explain from the perspective of materials science why?

The only non-steel material used in locks that I could find is Kevlar, but mostly just as a coating around steel, and from various reviews I don't get the impression that they are better or lighter than ordinary steel ones. My understanding is that kevlar has good tensile strength (so gun bullets can't tear kevlar fabric) but it doesn't resist being sawn or cut. Carbon fibres would presumably have similar issues, it's fairly easy to damage carbon frames if you compress them so a potential carbon fibre lock wouldn't resist bolt cutters.

So are there any light materials that would have the correct properties for a bike lock? And if not, why not?


texts: I finished a 2 hour bike ride outside today, and I parked it next to the wall in my kitchen after I got home. 3-4 hours later... all the sudden the front tire just "blew up". What happened? Thanks!


texts: Road bike shipped with one of the brake cable heads disconnected from the brake lever

texts: Is there an easy fix for this?  From what I can see, looks like I have to remove the handlebar tape, and route the cable from the handle bar through the casing etc like new.  I got the bike from the "direct" "bikes" store.  Did not expect this.  One of the brakes is working and the other has this issue and no action.


texts: I put master link on my bike and it keeps falling off the chain or snapping. The chain makes clicking noises or gets stuck then jumps off crank or the link snaps off. There's less than 5 miles on the chain is there any way to repair it without a chain tool? I've never used a snap on master link and usually use the traditional linking through pins.


texts: California: Riding against traffic on a one-way street

texts:
I did some searching, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer to this question. Is it legal to ride against traffic on a one-way street (no bike lane) in California, specifically in Los Angeles?

VC 21202(b) says:

  (b) Any person operating a bicycle upon a roadway of a highway, which highway carries traffic in one direction only and has two or more marked traffic lanes, may ride as near the left-hand curb or edge of that roadway as practicable.

This doesn't explicitly mention going against traffic, but since it's talking about one-way streets and riding close to the left curb, can we assume that the implication is that the rider is going the "wrong way"?


texts: Is it OK to use a crankset with partially stripped pedal threads?

texts:
The threads on the right side of my crankset have been stripped and now only about half the threads remain (see picture below).

I can still insert my pedal all the way into the crank. Would it be OK to ride the bike like this whilst I wait for a new crank? Will it damage the pedal, or is there any chance the pedal could fall out?

Also is there a particular reason this would have happened in the first place? Under load, the pedal just popped off and took the missing threads with it. (The pedal is definitely the right sided pedal.)


texts:
Does a cyclist have the right of way in a traffic circle/roundabout/rotary (in the US)? Any tips for riding around one of these scary things?

This past summer, I was riding around a rotary (a.k.a. roundabout) and a driver behind me wanted to leave the rotary, by turning right. Because she was driving faster than me, when she tried to turn right she almost ran into me and had to screech on her brakes - then proceeded to yell "You should have used your hand signals" to me, even though I wasn't turning (I was just following the rotary around). I am almost certain I was following the rules, am I mistaken?

I guess the rules go out the window sometimes anyway, and you have to watch your own back...


texts:
I am planning to have a tour 230km with roady bike, elevation <600m overall.
I think with average speed will be ~20-25 kmh
What you recommend should I sleep on half of ride? Are you talking about sleeping or just have a 1 hour break?
Problem is if I will start 7a.m I need min, 14 hour to finish. I don't want to ride  at night.
Please share your recommendations.

Note: I have SPD-SL pedals, and all other dress code :)


texts: Why do deep section front wheels get pushed around in crosswinds?

texts:
If a bike with a deep front wheel or a front diskwheel were to receive crosswinds with a 90 degree yaw angle handling would not be affected since the pressure would be equally distributed among the entire wheel.

So why does the wheel turn at lower yaw angles?

This front "wheel" seems to be designed to handle optimally in crosswinds at normal yaw angles. Maybe one day somebody can make adjustments to the fork to reproduce the same effect.


texts:
I'm building up a 36-spoke dynamo front wheel for a Mongoose Envoy cargo bike. It will be used casually for short trips, but I weigh 230 lbs and I may have a child or a load of groceries on. The stock tires are 60mm wide.
I have a 25mm wide, aluminum rim from an old Mongoose mountain bike, however it is a single-wall rim. I have never ridden or even seen an aluminum single wall rim and I want to know if it will be strong enough or if I should buy a more modern rim such as a Sun Rhyno Lite. As far as I know, disk brakes put more load on wheels than rim brakes and, since disc brakes didn't exist when this single wall rim was made, will there be a problem using it on a disc brake wheel?


texts:
I have a hybrid bike (Merida Speeder 200) with 700x32c tires.
I've been using it on the road with great pleasure, but given the corona situation it's becoming quite crowded on the (nice) roads.
Therefore I'm looking for alternative paths. The beach is semi-nearby and has a wide flat strip of "hard" sand during low tide.
Can I ride on the hard sand with 32c tires?


texts:
Looking for recommendations on a Full Suspension bike - trying to spend < $2000USD.

Looking for an All-Mountain bike - something with at least 6" of travel but I don't want a full on DH or freeride bike either.

I am really intrigued by the Specialized Pitch, so anything that approximates that configuration would work.


texts: Replace threadless headset retained bearings with sealed bearings?

texts: I have a rather simple threadless headset in aluminum frame, and forks. It's creaking quite a bit, I think I'll replace the bearings and races. It has "retained" bearing rings (semi-loose) and cup races. I was wondering if it's possible to replace these with a sealed type bearing set?


texts: How do I make a MTB shifter fit on a Road dropbar?

texts: I'm about to buy a MTB, since we don't have cyclocrosses here in my country. I'd like to have a road dropbar, but can't spend money on a road shifter like tiagra sti. I know the mtb handlebars are thinner than the road handlebars. Is there a way to make, say, a deore shifter on a road drop handlebar?