texts: 32H 2x rear wheel for velodrome - is it ok?

texts:
I'm building new wheelset for my track bike which I am going to use on velodrome only. I have H+SON SL42 rims and Miche Primato hubs, 32H. I've ordered some cheep spokes and suddenly realized that I calculated spoke length with 2-cross pattern.

After some investigation I've found that 32H wheels are being built with 3x pattern, 2x is used for 28H and for 32H it may be less stiff and less durable. Is it really serious problem and will I feel the difference? And is it worth ordering new spokes and making it 3 cross pattern?

For the front wheel it does not matter, it can be even radial as it does not transfer the power from chain, but the problem is about rear wheel only.


texts:
Since I'm replacing my old Shimano M446 hydraulic disc brakes with new ones, I'm wondering is there a way to properly store disc brakes that are not in use (disassembled from bike frame)? At the moment, I'm not sure if I'm going to sell them or keep them but anyway I would like to keep them in working order.

Here are some of questions:

Should I keep system closed (filled with oil), replace old oil (probably needs replacing anyway) or drain it completely?
Should brake pads stay in calipers or remove them and place bleed blocks?
How to handle brake hose so it doesn't break or change shape?
How to store rotors so they don't bend?


texts:
So I have a bike without pegs for the mounting of a cargo bike rack.

It is a steel frame so I was thinking of installing make-shift pegs myself.

Is this going to breach the integrity of the frame?

I know some types of metals and constructions aren't intended to be drilled through.


texts: Polite/Proper Way To Notify Pedestrians and Bicycles

texts:
A question on a bell had a lot of comments on how to notify pedestrians.

How do you notify a pedestrian you need to pass?

How do you notify a bicycle you need to pass?

I imagine this will be region dependent so please state your region.

This is getting a bit of response and it clearly varies by region.  I will give it a couple more hours and just award the answer to the most votes.


texts:
A friend recommended that I take an oily cloth (with regular motor oil or such) and wipe down the entire surface of my mountain bike frame. He claims that it's easier to hose off after, and it actually keeps cleaner. It seems counter-intuitive to me, as I think the dirt would just stick to the oil.

What do you think? Do you do this, and does it work for you?

I should add that this is for a wet, muddy climate; the argument being that oil repels water...


texts: Need assistance identifying new wheel options for Araya VP-20 26x1.5 ETRTO 559

texts:
This is very similar to the question answered for "Need assistance identifying new tire options for Fuji 4130" (by 0-Biker) and answered by "Argenti Apparatus" but I couldn't add a follow-up there.
My son was hit by a car that warped the wheel. It's an old bike but I would like to replace the wheel.
How can it state 26x1.5 when ETRTO 559 = 22"? So should I be seeking a 22 or 26" wheel, please? (And I guess it needs to be 1.5" wide (as it states, VP-20 26x1.5 ETRTO 559)?) (For interest, what does the VP-20 mean?)
Thxalot.
Pac


texts: How does my tire pressure effect the tire's maximum load?

texts: So, I've very recently bought a brand new "Radius Targa"... The pressure I'm told to inflate my tires to (which it says on the side of the wheel) is 50 PSI, the only measurements I can find on the wheel to tell me anything about size or whatever is 26 x 1.95. I weigh just over 120KG, and the wheels say that at 50 PSI, the max load is 90KG... Does that mean that I should then increase the pressure, to increase the maximum load, or decrease it? I'm only using this bike for on-road/footpath riding, nothing offroad.


texts:
I'm trying to determine where I fit on the Cannondale Slate geometry because it doesn't seem they use top-tube actual or seat tube, but rather they're using the Stack? I see a great sale on a 56cm bike but that is classified as a Medium and I'm generally a large. I'm 5'11" with around a 33in inseam. Long arms. I believe my other road bike is a 56cm and I'm going to assume it was measured correctly for me. This is sort of an "all road" bike that will be taken on mild single-track, if that changes my measurement decision. What I don't understand is, it appears they're using stack as the bike measurement?

Is a 56cm too small for me? It appears the top tube and seat tube are tiny and has me really confused. I'll also mention I'd prefer not to ride with an overly aggressive seating position.

** edit - These are 650b wheels.


texts: Clear coat on top of old paint in order to preserve it/frame?

texts: Using nail polish to touch-up scratched/rusted frames is more or less well-known (cf. Girls Biking to Work), but recently a hobbyist restorer of old bikes told me that you can "just apply clear coat over the entire frame" in order to keep the frame from rusting and to protect the paint job. Is this true?— What are the implications of applying a layer of clear coat over an old paint job on an old frame? I would be afraid that e.g. the clear coat would somehow discolor the paint job or perhaps cause the old paint job to somehow come off or something like that.


texts:
I'm trying to put together a list of foods I can easily replenish in the USA as I tour around the country on my bike. I'm looking for things that are:

non-perishable or last in 100F heat for at least 4 days (Assuming desert summers in my bags).
Preferably light-weight.
At least relatively healthy.
Low-cost and ready availability.

Thus far I have various thick-skinned fruits/vegetables that should be alright (especially if attached to vine), peanut butter, beans & rice.

Are there any other suggestions here? I will naturally find information for the area I'm in to scavenge for natural sources of sustenance. However, in the deserts of the southwest where I will be starting this and doing all my training these sources are few and far between so they can't be readily depended upon.


texts: Do I really need to pamper myself with a stand?

texts:
I went through three phases. First I adjusted my child's (I was 9-13?) bike, always fantasizing about a hook-and-cable to the ceiling that I can attach to the metal loop behind the elongated (and lavish) seat. Instead I flipped the bike upside down.

Then in my mountain and hybrid biking days I invested in bike tools. Avoiding to change the ball bearings in hubs/cranks when they were due was more a result of laziness, but delaying the tune-up of derailleurs to perfection was, I imagined, less a result of laziness than lack of a stand.

I'm now entering the road bike phase. On one hand I see that the bike is quite steady when it's upside-down. If I ever dare attempt truing a wheel myself, a stand, even a very solid one, will be wobbly compared to turning the bike upside-down. On the other every bike seems to have a top-access-to-bolts-and-screws design. And hence tuning brakes and derailleurs is inherently easier with the bike on a stand.

I appreciate that an upside-down bike is better than one on a wobbly stand, but assuming it's either a solid stand or none at all, I'm wondering:

Is a bike stand really necessary for pleasant/patient regular maintenance of one's bike?

(Update: And does there really exist such a thing as a "solid stand"? In various repair videos taken in serious bike shops I see that the bike moves way too much with even mild work being done on a screw here or there. It's as if a truly solid hold must grab the frame in three, or possibly two, places.)


texts:
I am attempting to fit Shimano Deore M6000 brakes to my 2017 Trek Stache. The rear brake contacts the frame near the bleed port and keeps me from being able to fully align the caliper to the disk.

The caliper is really close to having enough play in it to get aligned to the rotor. Can I file about 1 to 1.5mm off of the caliper body right where its contacting the frame?

I know there are other brakes I could buy which would clear the frame. For reference the bike came with Tektro M285 calipers which had plenty of space. I've done my research about what other brakes can fit, but I like the M6000 levers compared to others in my price range.


texts: Fitting Shimano cassette to an old mavic wheel

texts: I have a vintage CAAD 2 with Mavic Open CD wheels SUP, (very old) but perfect for what i need. The running gear is campanola but very high geared. I want to change it to Shimano which have a better range. My question is what free wheel hub will fit my mavic wheels for the Shimano 9 speed cassette i bought.


texts: Are Tubeless Continental GP5000s harder to mount than non-tubeless (normal clincher tyres)?

texts:
I'm asking specifically about Continental GP5000 tubeless vs. non-tubeless comparison.
Context: I would like to convert to tubeless on my road bike, and my current clincher GP5000 feel great, but fit my rims just barely (i.e. are pretty hard to fit). I'm reticent to buy 'tubeless' to find out I can't mount them, or with much pain.
I haven't found anything specific to this tire on the web.
Question: is the "tubeless" version of the GP5000 any tighter than the non-tubeless?


texts: Bike temporarily feels like it switches into a lower gear when rapidly braking?

texts:
It’s hard to describe this, and I’m not sure whether there’s something wrong with my bike.
Say I’m cycling along a long straight in sixth gear. If I brake enough to slow down rapidly (like round a corner) my bike suddenly acts as if it is in a lower gear (i.e. first gear), then after a few rotations of the pedals the bike snaps back into sixth. I find this infuriating as I suddenly need to pedal faster temporarily otherwise I will lose my speed.
I spoke to a friend about this but they insisted it was intentional and due to the bike’s “Shimano gear system”, but I haven’t experienced this on other bikes at all (they remain at sixth at all times).
Is there something wrong with my bike? And if so, what?
Edit: Added some photos. It seems to be an Apollo bike from Halfords.


texts: What is the lowest rideable gear ratio (chainring/cassette) possible without feeling like having to balance/trackstand? I'm doing some virtual simulations right now and I'm just setting up IRL limits. If it differs on road and mountain tires, I'd like ratios of both.


texts: 2014 vs 6061 vs 7075 aluminium components

texts:
I saw a crankset made of 2014-T6 aluminum alloy (so it was claimed).

I read that this alloy is somewhere in between 6061 and 7075 in terms of strength. I also learned that it is also more brittle than both 7075 and 6061. But the thing that caught my attention was its bad corrosion resistance. According to the Wikipedia:

  The corrosion resistance of this alloy is particularly poor.

Hence I'm curious if it is worth to get a chainring made of 2014-T6? I am more interested in its durability as I am not into any competitive riding.

Other than from corrosion, do I need to worry about other types of failures?


texts: Can I convert hybrid to mountain bike. Tyres and tubes?

texts:
I have a mountain bike looking frame with wheels that currently have road tyres. The bike is classified as a hybrid.

My tyres state: 28" x 1.6 (42-622)
The rim: ETRTO 622 x 18

I am having difficulty locating any mountain bike tyres for size 28".
Can I use size 29"?
Would I need a different set of rims?
Also, do I need a different tube for these tyres?

My goal is to do some dry trail mountain biking.

Lots of question. Thank you


texts: Are road bike shifter hoods compatible across models?

texts:
I've been using Shimano Sora Shifters since about 2012 .. probably one generation before the current
(https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/sora-3500/ST-3500.html)

The rubber covers are now corroded and slimy so I want to change them, but I am not sure if they are available for an old model. I’m wondering if I use a cover for a different model, how likely will it be compatible?

Anyone familiar with this?

Thanks in advance :)


texts: 8 speed flat bar set up with Dura Ace RD-7700 or new Claris RD-2400

texts: I'm buying a new drivetrain (cranks, cassette, chain) for my flatbar commuter that was mostly built of parts.  I currently have a Dura Ace 7700 short cage derailleur on it, I got it from a friend a few years ago after he rebuilt it.  I've been using it with Claris 2x8 index shifters, and the shifting has been so-so.  I'm swapping out my old Ultegra/600 FD for the fd-2400, because I know there are issues with flat bar shifters, road chain rings, and [old] derailleurs.  I'm basically wondering whether I will have better performance from a new 8-speed derailleur (because of trickle down tech over the course of 17 years), or from my old Dura Ace 7700.  I mostly use this bike for fast 12 mile commutes in NYC and weekend overnight (much slower) rides with my wife in the surrounding area.


texts: I want to get rid of the front gears on my Scott Aspect 740 2016, what size sprocket would fit the stock cranks

texts: I would like to know the cheapest sprocket but good quality to buy to single speed my stock Shimano FC-M300 crank set to get rid of the gears and go "1-by" so its a single speed just on the front.


texts: How to repeat the success of Salsa Marakesh when mixing MTB and road components?

texts:
Salsa Marakesh https://salsacycles.com/bikes/marrakesh/2020_marrakesh_sora is based in part on road Sora components and MTB Alivio components.
Let's focus on the front -- in my bike I have Sora brifters, I added MTB crankset (Acera FC-MT300) and I have MTB Alivio front derailleur (FD-T4000). To make it works I had to add jTek pull ratio converter. And with it, it works great.
And here is the Salsa -- Sora brifters as well, MTB crankset, MTB Alivio front derailleur. And that's it. No converter.
So my question is how can I simplify my setup (by removing cable converter) and make it work like in Salsa? The only difference I can see Salsa uses Alivio crankset, not Acera, and Salsa uses 48/36/26 chainrings while I have 44/32/22. I doubt the size matters here, but could it be upgrading to Alivio crankset would allow me to drop cable converter?


texts: Why do some people leave the chain sitting on the smaller sprocket when the bike is not used for a while?

texts: I guess it is something related to the springs in the derailleur. But is it that important?


texts:
Under what circumstances would it be advisable to ride a century without stopping?

If a person had: 100% daylight; no mechanical failures; and, no stop signs or lights to deal with, it would seem possible that she/he could ride 100 or more miles on a bicycle without ever putting a single foot back on the ground.

Given the above assumptions, I'm wondering what other conditions make it favorable for a rider to forgo all stops.  Apart from the above mentioned perils, it would seem to me that nutrition, hydration, waste disposal and arm fatigue would be the greatest challenges.


texts:
what size tire can install on my bike? I have hybrid bike (gary fisher Tiburon 2006).
It has 700x35C tires on it or if you want to call it 37x622.
I want to install the widest tire possible to ride on semi rough trail.
Today I received my new tires 700x42c but I wasn't impressed with the unnoticeable added width of 7mm as if there is no difference in size.

I have lots of clearance on all the relevant tires and frame to accommodate wider tires. I have about 3/4" on both sides of the front forks and rear frame. Also enough space between the brakes holder and rim. I checked with a bike shop and they advised me that I have enough room for much wider tires.

Please advise the widest tire size I can install on my wheels.


texts: Replacing the fulcrum lever of a Sturmey-Archer hub with something else.

texts:
I'm trying to find a way to bodge a S.-A. SRF5(W) hub onto a bike with difficult dropouts.  There are two main problems (looking at step 6 of this diagram and also at these part pictures p.15,41 will aid in understanding this description, should you care to do so):

Problem 1: The axle is a bit too short to take all the washers and nuts on the right-hand (drive) side.

Problem 2: The bend in the fulcrum arm is not sharp enough to get around the lips of the dropouts.

Solution 1: get rid of the fulcrum arm (see link 2, pg. 41) and just use the locating washer (I think I can probably prang it off with a cold-chisel).  I could then cut the fulcrum arm bend off and attach the straight piece with clamps or somesuch to the chainstay.  As I understand it the fulcrum arm is not actually resisting rotational forces (that's done by the anti-rotation washers on the flat-sides axle), but instead is providing a place for the mounting of a barrel-adjuster screw to allow tuning of the shift lever.

Solution 2:  hope that someone is going to tell me that I can simply using Fitting Kit HFIS5.PHSV (p.15 ) which seems to magically replace the fulcrum arm, gear selector guid and g.s.g. protective cover with two simpler parts.

Solution 3:  try to get a thinner, more steep angled fulcrum lever machined for me ... or mock it up out of soft aluminum.  It LOOKS as though it's only function is to provide a mounting point for the barrel adjuster screw (see 3.Gear Adjustment of link 1)


texts:
Which brifters are compatible with Shimano RX100-A410 2x7 drivetrain?

Microshift SB-R472s perhaps?

Thank you for your time.


texts: convert 9 speed wheel to 10 speed, won't shift to largest ring

texts:
My Cervelo P2 has Dura Ace front/rear derailleurs, the ear wheel has Shimano 6600 10 speed cassette, it runs well.

Now I want to use a pair of old Corima carbon wheels. The rear wheel, a 4-spoke, has Shimano CS-HG70-9 9 speed cassette.

I did two experiments:

I put on the 9 speed carbon wheel directly, it seems to run well, chain can be shifted from smallest ring to largest without skipping a ring. 10 speed shifter misses 1 gear of course: shifting from the smallest ring to the largest, the first shift has no effect.
I replaced the cassette of 9 speed carbon wheel with Shimano 6600 10 speed cassette. I did some search, all say it's fine to put 10 speed cassette onto 9 speed hub. Put the wheel back on bike, the chain can only go from the smallest ring to second largest ring. 10 speed shifter misses 1 gear still: shifting from the smallest ring to the largest, the first shift has no effect.

Two questions:

Q1: can I just use the 9 speed carbon wheel on my 10 speed bike? will it cause damage to the chain set? I think the 10 speed chain is thinner, no?

Q2: how come I'm missing 1 speed after replacing the 9 speed carbon wheel with a 10 speed cassette? do i need to adjust the rear derailleur?

update:
I figured out the cause: when I moved the 10 speed cassette I left a 1mm spacer on the hub, as described here: http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/781234-shimano-10-speed-cassette-washer-shim.html because of missing this 1mm spacer, the whole cassette is 1mm closer to the spokes, 1mm further from derailleur. as advised, I adjusted the rear derailleur and managed to get shifting back, but by putting that 1mm spacer back on, the derailleur is off again... though I wasted some time due to this rookie mistake, I actually learned a lot. thanks for all who helped


texts: I just got a western flyer bike... want some background information?

texts:
I went to the Salvation Army today to find an old Western Flyer bike for $20. Being the college student I am, I couldn't resist such a deal. So far my roommate and I are getting it fixed up and it's in good condition.

I was wondering if I could get an actual age for it, and what the initial cost may have been back in the day.

Bike specs:

10 speed mens bike
26in tires
Drop handlebars
The shifters say "Shimano 333"
The rear derailleur is a 1967 Black Lark, and says "Shimano Lark."

Anyone have any information on this bike, or know where I can get more?


texts: new 9-speed chain fails after 4 weeks and ~240 miles

texts:
About 4 weeks ago I installed a new SRAM PC-971 chain on my Surly LHT. This morning I've noticed that one of the outer chain link plates started to pull away (to spread in a way that the pin is not engaged with the outer plate). My previous chain had failed in exactly the same way, but it was 50% worn according to a chain stretch checker. While riding this bike on a daily basis for over 6 years, I've never had this happen before. Does anyone have any ideas of why the chain is repeatedly failing in this fashion?

Drivetrain details:

RD: Deore XT
FD: Tiagra, triple;
Cassette: SRAM 9-speed, 11-32t (reasonably worn, but not skipping yet);
chainrings: original to the
bike, reasonably worn, the teeth don't look terrible yet.


texts: How do mini penny-farthings ride compared to regular size pfs?

texts:
I'm considering buying one of these with a 28" front wheel, pneumatic tires and rear caliper brakes. How do they compare to actual penny-farthings? I've read on another forum with unreliable responses (non-riders giving opinions based on movies) that any high wheel bike should only be ridden on pavement to keep from taking a header. Would this be an issue with the kind of bike I'm interested in?

I wasn't actually asking about functionality as a commuter bike. For that I like a cruiser. I want something to have fun with. Oddly enough I don't like heights so penny-farthings make me a little anxious. I suppose it's from being fairly high up without much of anything beneath me. I do know that it is necessary to pedal against the bike when slowing down. Applying the back brake first is helpful in preventing a header within theory. Most people walk a penny-farthing down hills. True penny-farthings have solid rubber tires. This one has pneumatic tires. The big wheels are supposed to just roll over ruts unless they are big ruts. This front wheel is much smaller. Does that mean that it takes a header over every rut? The high wheel bikes put the rider almost over the pedals. This one technically puts the rider slightly farther back since the legs are longer in relation to the radius of the wheel. Does that help keep the bike from flipping forward? Sorry to be so techincal but that's sort of why I was hoping someone here rides one.


texts: Do specification sheets for older Shimano components exist?

texts: You can find official Shimano spec sheets on their website. They reach back to the year 2004. Do older spec sheets from the 80s and 90s exist?


texts:
Ive tried everything and can’t seem to get the tire off the rim. I’ve double checked the bead and it’s loose. I pushed the beads into the centre.  I’ve tried warming up the tire. It almost seems the tire is smaller than the rim. I try and use the tire leaver to lift it but it almost seems to grab both beads at the same time. I can’t lift one bead up over the rim edge. I really don’t want to take it into a shop as I’ve changed other tires quite easily. I also tried the front tire Incase it was just an issue with the rear one I was working on. Natta. Any suggestions?

Soap and a bunch of muscle power did the trick. Thanks so much everyone.


texts: Are there any tricks to make "U brake" stronger?

texts:
I rebuilt a kids bike. I had the wheelset and calliper/U-brake replaced. Parts that I used are not cheap parts, lets say its more of mid range parts for BMX, normally made of alloy. I made sure the calliper is installed properly and brake shoe are aligned with the rims.

Still the brake is weak, even on a road that is 15 degrees it won't stop. For me it looks like the brake shoe is slipping and not having a good hold on the rims even if its perfectly aligned. I tried pouring soda on the rims to make it sticky but still no good. Any ideas?

Update: I already did try to degrease the rims and used more expensive brake shoe(Baradine brake pads) still no good. Brakes did improve but not what I wanted. I have to give so much pressure on the brake lever in order for it to stop, when I say so much pressure I feel like the brake lever and the cable wire is about to snap.


texts:
This BMX is around 25-30 years old, I had it as a kid and was always respraying and changing parts (easy to remove parts, mainly seats and brakes) It eventually was left to rust in the shed until, during lockdown, To kill some time in evenings, I decided to clean it up sand it down and respray it, just wondering if anyone knows what model it is, located in Ireland.
Thanks for looking


texts:
My mountain bike has internally routed cables and and I'm struggling with indexing. My first thought is to replace my cables which I've never done.

Is it as simple as pulling the inner cable out and replacing it with a new one or do i need to replace the sheathing as well?


texts: Recommendations for waterproof map carrier for an adventure race

texts:
I am going to an adventure race that has a MTB segment (~100km) where you get the map 5h before the start.

I am looking for a bicycle map holder that is waterproof and can pivot (Its a team race and pivoting will come in handy when other looks at the map).

Thanks for any advices.


texts: New bike rear derailleur not working correctly

texts:
I got this new bike over a week ago, and I was trying to fix the bike's derailing system and I can't seem to get it fixed.

I tried watching a ton of videos online on how to adjust your derailleurs and the outcome is the same for me; nothing works.  So I'm wondering if anybody could give some advice on what I could try to do.  The current problem is that the rear cassette keeps skipping shifts whenever I try to shift; I can't adjust it properly.

Note: I have made this bike into a e-bike so not sure if that would make a difference for anything.

Here is a link to a video of the shifting not working correctly https://streamable.com/jot1hu

This is a photo of the rear derailleur:


texts: I've got a Raleigh Olympian road bike I use for commutes and my neck is killing me (congenital problem). So I want to put gull wing cruiser bars on this bike, with mountain bike levers in the center area near the stem, leaving the original brake calipers and tube-mounted shifters in place. I know this sounds ridiculous and I also assume plenty of people will say, "just buy a commuter hybrid", both of which are moot points. Is it possible?


texts: Why is lactose never mentioned as a fuel for cycling, either for short fast races or endurance?

texts: Sucrose, dextrose, glucose and fructose, but never lactose. Why not, what's wrong with it as a source of fuel?


texts:
How do I know when bearings need to be replaced?

Should I go by time? Or is there a symptom to guide me?


texts: When coasting (not pedaling) downhill, do single speed bikes tend to be faster than multi speed bikes? Assume that both types are road bikes with similar frame, tires, etc.


texts: Shimano Alivio M4000 vs Altus M370 shifters

texts: I'm planning to upgrade my shifters to Alivio M4000. My old shifters are Altus M370. My question is will this make a significant differrence on my shifting? I'm running Altus M310 FD with Alivio M4000 shadow RD


texts: Does it makes sense to buy a new cycle to learn riding?

texts:
I am a complete newbie in the cycling world but I want to learn to cycle and use it to explore the city and the places yonder. I also intend to use it to ride daily to office gradually.

So my question is that should I buy a cheap/used bike to learn to cycle first, or buy the bike I like such as a Trek DS or similar?

I ask this question as I might be overlooking the wear-tear or other points before I make a hasty purchase. I am in my mid-twenties (yes, you can shame me for not knowing to cycle) and I live in a bike friendly city on the east coast of the United States.


texts: Mountain vs. Road 10 Speed Drivetrain Compatibility

texts: I'm modifying my CX bike to double as a lightweight tourer.  I'm currently running a 1x10 SRAM Force/Rival drivetrain.  I'd like to replace my single front chainring with a "mountain double" to utilize the latter's low gearing.  My question is whether or not there is a difference between "mountain" and "road" 10 speed drivetrains?  Can the same chains be used on both?  How about "mountain" chainrings in the front and "road" cassettes in the back?  Is the distinction just marketing rubbish or is mountain 10 gear heavier duty?


texts: Does cannabis affect cycling performance?

texts:
Some of my friends like to smoke (using both traditional methods and vaporizers that produce no "smoke") or eat edibles before rides, they say it makes it more enjoyable.  I always wonder if it affects their performance, insofar as they fatigue faster, have less endurance, make less power, etc.

They claim it doesn't.  A few have said they are actually better while medicated, for various reasons, like any pain they may be having is numbed or they feel that they can just crank away forever.  I'm not so sure. I usually say "well, it probably just feels that way" - I doubt there is any benefit, but I could be wrong.

Furthermore, for an experienced rider, could it be said that it is dangerous to medicate and ride?

Have there been any studies done or any empirical research that points to a decline in performance and/or increased safety risk? e.g. getting hit by a car.


texts: Pros and cons of using 20-25mm inner tube in a 32mm tire?

texts:
I'm using 700x32mm Maxxis Detonator tires on my hybrid road bike. Although it is possible to find wider inner tubes that could fit better that tire, the 20-25mm ones are popular and available to buy more often.

I would like to know what are the pros and cons of using a 700 inner tube 20-25mm on this tire.


texts:
This may be the wrong site but it's the closest one I thought someone would have knowledge of the question...

It's not for a bike but rather replacing the wheels on a power wheels... The axle is 7/16" can I use a wheel with 5/8" axle hole (bore?) or does it have to be tighter fit like 1/2"? Or even 7/16, 15/32?


texts: Where did a '95-'96 Sycamore mtb fit in the Mongoose product range?

texts: From what I've managed to piece together trawling the internets, this period was before quality dropped for Mongoose, but that Sycamores were low- to mid-range models. I'm considering how much time and effort to spend on overhauling a bike like this for commuting btw, I'm from outside the States, if that matters.


texts: How many spacers I can put on a Shimano hollowtec 2 BB for a 68 mm BB shell

texts:
My bottom bracket shell is 68 mm English thread.

I put a 1 mm spacer on the drive side BB to move the chain rings further away from the frame, so to prevent the chain rub against the inside of the front derailleur cage when the chain is on the small front ring and largest rear cog.

I have already adjusted the FD limit screws, there is no way the FD can go any further to the frame.

Before I adding the spacer the rub is very obvious. After adding the spacer the rub is very minor but I want to eliminate it.

Should I　add one more 1 mm spacer on the drive side? I already added another 1 mm spacer on the non-drive side because left crank will rub the kick stand without it. So I already put total of 2 mm spacers on the BB.

Can I add one more on the drive side?


texts:
I am moving to Ojen Spain for work for 3 months and will be biking to marbella and back.

I have put the ride into mapmyride.com and it says that the ride is a cat 2.

Climb  Start    End      Length   Start Elev  End Elev  Avg Grade
Cat 2  0.00 mi  3.44 mi  3.44 mi   80 ft      1073 ft   5.5%
Cat 5  4.34 mi  4.95 mi   .61 mi  920 ft      1034 ft   3.5%

I am not a stranger to road bikes, I worked as a messenger when I was a kid and used a bike for commuting just about everywhere I have ever lived.  I started riding again about a month ago on a stationary going as hard as the thing will let me for an hour at a time to at least try to acclimate my legs a bit again.  (can't ride in Dubai really, you will end up as a hood ornament)

How much will this climb affect me in the beginning?  I know this is subjective and everyone is different.  I don't expect this to be easy at first, I guess I am just wondering if this hill will absolutely destroy me in the beginning?

I am asking because it is sight unseen and I haven't ridden in probably 5 years.


texts: Is it better to have mountain bike tyres for the winter?

texts:
I have a hybrid commuter bike that is more at the mountain bike end of the spectrum

Currently I have slick road tyres on it.

Is it a good idea to get mountain bike tyres on it to deal with the wet and icey winter conditions?

I've heard conflicting stories about if they help or not

EDIT: To clarify - this is for commuting to work on the road. Not for off-road stuff.


texts:
My "be seen" bicycle light is bar mounted and has to be reattached every time I jump on the bicycle, due to theft risk.  How do I determine when it is correctly aligned?

In particular how are "be seen" lights correctly aligned so they don't blind on-coming traffic, but so that they're best visible from a distance for on-coming traffic?

This question is primarily about how to adjust beam position for courtesy and safety, rather than the mechanics of mounting any particular light.

related question: How to correctly align "to see" bicycle lights?


texts:
What is your preferred weight ratio between front to rear wheels on your bike(s)?  I always assumed 40% front / 60% rear was "normal".  I have been experimenting with tire pressure and stem length trying to improve front tire grip and steering on my trail bike which is often slipping in corners.
These are the front / rear weight ratios I measured on my bikes:
Full suspension MTB:  38% / 62%
Hardtail MTB:  39% / 61%
Cyclocross:  42% / 58%
(Methodology: me on bike with one wheel on a scale and opposite wheel slightly elevated to compensate for height of scale)
The frequently referenced Frank Berto tire pressure experiments assumed a 45%/55% ratio.  Those were road oriented tests.  I'm guessing I might get closer to 45/55 on a road frame.  But I am no where near that on my mountain bikes and was surprised to find I was slightly below 40% front weight on both bikes.
Has anyone else ever actually checked this for themselves?  What ratio do you have?  Have you tried to alter your ratio?


texts: I've tried avoiding riding during the rain for years because I didn't want to hurt my bike.  But, tomorrow I really want to ride, rain (most likely) or shine.  What should I do after the ride to ensure my bike remains in good shape?


texts: What's the logic behind this chain length estimation method?

texts:
I know of several methods of sizing a chain for a bike:

As many links as the previous chain.
Small-small. The RD should be barely expanded, the chain nearly rubbing against itself roller-cogs. The logic here is to be able to have the longest possible chain, that still allows shifting into any gear combination.
Vertical rollers. Shift big front small rear. The rollers on the RD should be in a vertical line, below the cogs. In this position the RD is in a good working point, because it's spring is both tensioned (and thus stiff against vibrations) and not over-elongated (and suffering accelerated wear). This is the medium working point.
Big-big without the derailleur. Without threading the chain through the RD, measure big-big and add 2 links.

My question is what is the motivation of the last method. To me, not threading the chain through the RD just doesn't make any sense. What physical quantity is being measured by shifting to big-big and why are 2 links being added?

As a side note, I recently tested all of those, and no two returned the same result.


texts: What's the difference between road bike disc brake wheels /cyclosross wheels?

texts: What's the difference between road bike disc wheels /cyclocross disc wheels?


texts:
I am doing a 210km (130 mile) ride on Sunday. I assume it'd help me to taper but I'm not sure about the most effective method.

How much should I ride in the last 3-4 days before the ride? My current plan is:

Wednesday: Normal 40km (24 mile) commute
Thursday: Lunchtime ride of
20km (12 miles)
Friday: Lunchtime ride of 20km (12 miles)
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Ride

This page (which is actually related to the ride I'm doing) suggests that I'm close, but should rest on Friday and do a short ride on Saturday.

Some information about my training:

I've done this ride before and I'm confident I can finish it, I just want to finish it as strongly/comfortably as possible.
I've done 100km+ (60miles+) for the last 3 weekends in training, along with daily commutes

Update

I ended up doing a slightly longer ride on Thursday, but other than that I stuck to the schedule above. I did feel more rested at the start of the Sunday and I was grateful for the day off on Saturday.

I also Carbo loaded.

Given the variables I'm not sure what helped, but I did feel strong for the ride and didn't 'bonk', which was a definite improvement over previous years.


texts:
Could somebody give me an idea of how to figure out the number of calories I'm burning on a stationary bike?

The bike I'm using is a cheap Pro Fitness magnetic bike from Argos (http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/9237386.htm), and it comes with a digital readout of speed, distance, pulse, calories, etc. but the calories stay the same no matter what setting I ride on.

In other words, if I do 45 minutes at 30 kph on setting 1 (extremely easy), the calorie readout will be the same as if I do 45 minutes at 30 kph on setting 8 (around 200!). Obviously this cannot be true.

I've been using this site (http://prod.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/cycling-calories-burned-calculator) to get an estimation of my calories, and the calculator says I will burn about 750 calories for a 45 minute ride at 30kph, but the calculator is for bicycles and not stationary bikes.

Are there any guidelines or info for stationary bikes only?


texts: Please identify a bike that is like a cross trainer

texts:
Yesterday I saw a strange looking bike that I would like to identify. Its features are:

Stood up riding position with no seat
Had cross trainer (running machine) pedals
Handles were similar to those of a child's scooter with a rubber grip
Located in Bradford, UK

I can't include images as I don't have the rep.

My question is, what is this type of bike called?


texts: I have a Dahon Mariner, can I replace 20x1.6" tyre with 20x1.79?

texts: I have a Dahon Mariner Bike. Can I replace a 20 x 1.6" back tyre with a 20 x 1.79" tyre as I can't get hold of a 1.6?


texts:
I took my bike to the bike shop to get remove the quick release wheel things, so that I can use only one U-lock, anyways they changed it for me but the bike mechanic really got mad at me and said 'you are not suppose put a u lock mount on carbon fiber'

carbon is strong one way but not the other and that i am putting too much stress on the frame etc..

is he right? the small kryptonite u-lock only weighs like 2.38 pounds!


texts:
My local bike shop owner said to me "I would never use tubeless tires for a Gravel Bike".
Where I ride in central Iowa, we only seem to have the large clunky gravel with fairly sharp edges. I have been getting the pinch type flats, like a snake bite. So I started reading and have viewed a number of "experts" who swear by tubeless, especially GCN presenters I follow. I am a fit Superclydesdale rider, so not a featherweight person, and all my bikes must be very sturdy.
Who to believe?


texts:
Today I braked my bicycle from 50 km/h with my front rim brake and  heard a really nasty sound coming from the braking surface of the wheel, and I saw some metal shavings as well.
The brake has been randomly making these noises for a little while, but this is the first time I've seen shavings.  The brake pads and rims are about two months old.

Do you think my wheel is toasted or my brake pads are too hard?

I have rim brakes. It has been happening for a while, randomly but just the sound, never seen the metal shavings flying from my rim. And yeah, the brake shoes are like 2 months old, as well as the rim.

The rim is aluminium.


texts: Triple crank, extra click while downshifting

texts:
I have an Ultegra triple crankset and shifters on a Giant road bike. When downshifting from the outer ring to the middle ring it requires an extra click.

I've experienced this on several triple chainring bikes that I've owned and wondered if it is just the nature of a triple or if I'm out of adjustment somewhere?


texts: I'm struggling to find a replace crank set to replace the SR Suntour set that came on my bike. The chain rings were riveted together so on bending one I had to replace the set. There's very few 7 speed crank sets for a 118mm spindle and separate chain rings. I would like to fit a Shimano M410 on a 113mm bb. This will alter the chain line by 2.5mm, will this be an issue?


texts:
I wish to convert the 6sp to an 8sp.

Which model Dahon has the best 8 speed wheel unit to change the existing 6s speed wheel?

Also, what 3 speed hub gear would fit with the 6sp/wheel unit?

Cheers.


texts:
I'm in the market for a new bike - don't worry I am not looking for a recommendation.  What I am trying to find out is how do I know what groupset I am looking at? for example, I know Shimano 105 has been around for a while, but my understanding is that the 2017 105 is probably more advanced than a 2005 Ultegra.

So, when looking at bikes that both purport to have Shimano 105 or Tiagra or Sora or whatever, how do I know what year the groupset is and how do I know whether the 2017/2018 of a lower end model is better than a few years old higher end groupset?


texts: What parts do I have to change if I want to change my derailleur to higher speed?

texts:
I want to change my derailleur from a Tourney TY-300 to an Altus M2000. What bike parts do I need to change? I want to change my derailleur because i mostly ride forest trails and I have heard the new m2000,3000,4000 are for mtb bike.i have a big buck bike
And I wanted to upgrade the derailleur because my derailleur got bent a little bit because of an accident and after sometime it got more bent because of me riding trails so that why I want to change it and because the derailleur doesn’t shift good and the bike mechanic shop near me said there is no fix for this derailleur and that he Could only adjust it and that fix would only be temporary.so I have to choose between getting a new ty-300 derailleur or upgrading to an actual mtb derailleur


texts: Why are chainrings 50T and larger five-bolt rather than four-bolt?

texts: I've noticed that chainrings 50T and larger all use five bolt holes instead of four, invariant of BCD. How come? Is this simply due to tradition or is there a mechanical stress reasoning?


texts: Aerodynamic effect of drafter to the draftee

texts:
I thought I read somewhere something like having someone drafting behind also has effect to the rider in front. I wonder if it's true and would like to understand how does it work because it's quite unintuitive (if it's true at all).

So, other than robbing the rider in front from tailwind, does the drafter help at all?


texts: Can I replace a 3x8 1999 Sora crankset with a Claris FC-2403?

texts:
I expect I would need a compatible bottom bracket too, like the one that this Claris crankset is frequently bought together with, here. The front derailleur is already a Claris, a few months old.

This is on a Jamis Aurora 2000 that I have been riding since 2003. Between my aging and the bigger hills here in San Francisco, where the bike and I moved two years ago, the gearing on the Sora, at 52/42/30, feels a bit too tall anyway. The Claris at 50/39/30 might suit better.

Would this be worth doing? The bike fits me well, I'm fond of it. The stock wheels are aging and the cantilever brakes are squealing, but it's still a fun ride. I'd have this done by the bike shop, I'm no mechanic myself.


texts: I keep breaking the tips off my presta tube stems

texts:
I can't pinpoint what I'm doing wrong while inflating my tubes.  I use presta valves and have a "Joe Blow" Topeak pump.  I put the tube stem at 12 o'clock, I unscrew the tip of the tube stem (but not too hard), press to let out some air, place the pump head on, lock it on, inflate to 120 psi (as recommended on the tire), then reverse all procedures, trying to keep everything straight (not wiggling the pump head too much).

I inflate before every ride but didn't think that was a problem as long as I'm letting some air out before pumping and am not inflating beyond the max. psi.

Still, after a couple weeks (riding about 3 times per week), the part of the tube stem that screws up and down is gone, and a few weeks later, after inflating, all the air rushes out when I take the pump off, then it won't hold air again.

The last time I replaced a tube for this reason, I decided to keep the little nut in place at the base of the stem near the tire (though my mechanic says it's unnecessary) and to keep the dust cap on the stem.  I'm thinking these two items might not be necessary to most folks, but they'll perhaps protect against whatever I'm doing wrong.

Any other advice?


texts:
I am a product designer and am currently working on a bicycle lighting project and would really appreciate your valuable feedback.

In England, turning left on a bicycle is not really a problem as you would just follow the road, but turning right can be an issue as often you would have to change lanes or cut across traffic. Likewise in other parts of the world where you drive on the right, turning left would be the issue. That is why it is so important to use hand signals, so motorists can see your intentions. But how can motorists see your hand signals in the dark?

I have an idea for a bicycle light which would clip onto the sleeve of your clothing; very much like the way an ipod shuffle would clip onto clothes. It would always be on; therefore acting as a safety light as well. If you wanted to turn right, you could put your arm out and then motorists could see your intentions through the flashing light.

Many people have tried to crack the cycling indication market before, but it involves adding expensive and ugly lights to your bike. What if there was something as easy as the above, that just clips onto your sleeve- no need for bike modifications and probably less than a £10 spend.

This in mind, any answers to the following questions would be great:

Do you find it difficult to indicate in the dark? Do you think an idea like this would improve bicycle safety? Would this be something that you would buy?


texts: Why do we rarely see recumbents and almost never see velomobiles?

texts: Recumbent bicycles are more efficient than ordinary upright bicycles, and velomobiles are even more efficient. Then why do we see them so rarely on the road? Is it because they are expensive, or are there some non-financial, significant disadvantages?


texts:
I just pulled my old bicycle out of the garage. It's about 10 years old (a 21-speed mountain bike). It was working when it was put into storage.

When I tried to ride it today, the crank wouldn't engage properly to make the chain rings rotate; or more casually, when I pedaled nothing moved but the pedals themselves.

I flipped the bike over and if the rear wheel was spinning at a fair speed then the chain rings would engage when the crank was turned and the rear wheel had power driven to it as normally expected.

Is there a freewheel or freehub at the crank / chain ring junction that I should examine?

I read through a few dozen questions but I couldn't find any that addressed this specific issue; I hope this is a new question and not just a serious misunderstanding on my part!

I'll post a video shortly, but to give further clarification...

The chain is on the gears; the chain does not slip
I can backpedal and the chains and gears spin, as normally expected
However, if I pedal forward, the gears which are located at the pedals will not spin; the pedals rotate freely. They rotate as if the thing they are supposed to be affixed to isn't attached.

Also, I'm certainly misusing terms here! By "chain rings" and "crank" I was referring to the areas of the bike as indicated in this diagram:


texts: How to perform a long-distance bunny-hop?

texts:
When I need to clear a missing pothole or a slippery section of the trail, I try to make the hop as long-distance as possible. The result is that, unlike when hopping onto something elevated, now I push the bike forward while in the air in order to "place" it as far as possible forward. The drawback is that I am getting closer to falling off the back of the bike.

Is this smart? What other techniques exist for jumping the furthest at fixed approach speed?


texts:
Summary - I'm using an FSA Orbit MX threadless/integrated headset in a brand new steel frame. My problem is that I cannot seem to adjust the headset to the right tightness - either it is too tight and the forks do not turn freely, or it is too loose and there is substantial play/knocking.

To elaborate on the problem - I'm building up a new bike from scratch. Rather than try to install the headset myself with homemade tools I took it to a mechanic last weekend to have it professionally installed.

After building the bike up I noticed that the headset was quite loose (a lot of play when tightening the front brake and rocking the bike forward/backward).

So, I tightened it by loosening the stem bolts and tightening the top bolt. That made the play go away, but the fork would no longer swing freely. Loosened a little, and the play returned. I tried for an hour but could not find a middle ground. Either it's too loose or too tight, I can't get it right. Removing the spacers didn't help. The star nut seems to be located properly, a few mm below the top cap. I removed the fork completely and reassembled the upper and lower bearing races and seals, ensuring they are properly seated. No luck.

It's a mystery. Before I bring it back to the mechanic - is there anything I'm missing?

Edit - some photos of the headset, as requested. Sadly I don't have enough reputation to post more than 2


texts:
As I'm getting into the habit of cleaning and maintaining my bike more often, I am burning through my stockpile of rags. Up until now I have been using worn-out clothes as rags. I am going to run out soon and I need to get some more.

My LBS (big chain store) just said they get a large, vacuum packed bag of rags delivered from head office every so often. They were kind enough to give me a bunch for free and they seem to be old bedsheets. Whilst I could go to a charity shop and buy some sheets, I'm not keen on cleaning my bike with something that someone might want to buy to wear.

What do you use as rags and where do you get them from?


texts:
I finally got a rear axle replaced, and all new cones on a new axle... I assembled it back together with 7 or 8 of the bearings in on each side and some grease, put it all back together, put the freewheel cogs on (how did I even try it without the freewheel remover before...) and wheel was spinning fine without play left/right (well, maybe 1mm). The gears all shift too.

When I ride the bike I am often hearing a clunking in the rear though. When I just spin the crank or wheel when the bike is stopped It seems I cannot get it to happen. The back wheel feels pretty good. What should I look at for adjusting this? It happens when freewheeling and when pedaling and I don't see anything obviously tapping or loose.


texts: What would you upgrade first on a road bike?

texts: I have a Decathlon Triban RC500 with all stock components which I'm quite happy with. Since I have cash to burn (actually not, this question is hypothetical :)) what component should I upgrade first to make it faster/lighter? What would give me most bang for my bucks?


texts: What are the advantages and disadvantages of the different chainset designs?

texts:
Over the decades there were many different crankset and especially spider designs: 4, 5 or 6 arm spiders, symmetric or assymetric, different BCDs, direct mount and probably many more.
When looking at all the different cranks from different eras, a myriad of questions come to my mind e.g.:

What's the advantage of 110 over 130 over 144mm bcd?

Why did Shimano changed from 130mm to 110mm bcd in the 90s(?)?

Are certain designs better suited for 1x, 2x or 3x?

Why did road cranks have had a 5 arm spider, while mountain bike cranks always had 4?

Why did Shimano adapt their road cranks to the 4 bolt design? And why didn't they do earlier?

I'm interested in the evolution of crankset design and the engineering line of thought behind the different designs.
Literature recommendations on the topic are also highly appreciated.


texts: Recessed brake pivot nut stuck in carbon fork

texts:
The recessed pivot nut for my front brake calliper (no. 4 in this diagram) has seized inside the fork.

I've managed to remove the brake calliper itself by unscrewing it from the front, but the nut is stuck so tightly that I'm worried I'll round off the socket if I try to extract it with a hex key.  I've tried dousing the assembly in GT-85 but it doesn't seem to be helping.

Someone suggested screwing an M6 bolt in from the front and knocking it through with a hammer, but I'm not sure how hard I can safely hit it (my careful attempts so far haven't worked).

Am I likely to damage a carbon fork by doing this?


texts: Rubber sealing in the TRP Spyre brake cable

texts:
I just got my first bike with disk brakes (TRP Spyre) and have problem using them. When I jam the front brake, I get very little stopping power. To compare it, when I jam the front brakes of my other bike equipped with Campy Athena skeleton rim brakes, I can easily fall over the handle bars.

Upon closer inspection, it seems that I can not brake fully due to the rubber sealing (?) visible just below the barrel adjuster in the picture.

Is it safe to remove them? The TRP Spyre installation video available on their website does not show this part at all.

EDIT: To clarify some of the questions. The metal part with "Spyre" written on it is moving towards the fixed black part with barrel adjuster. By moving, it compresses the rubber boot. From the feel in wheel brake levers, I'd say that there is still movement possible, but the compressed rubber boot does not allow it as it is fully compressed.

The bike was bought in Wiggle, so no first month adjustments. I will try to ride a bit for pads to break in and then adjust the 3mm adjustment screw to see if it helps.


texts: I have only been able to find a headset that measures 1-5/16" on the small end of the bearing cup that goes into the headtube on the bike. All of the bearing cups I've found are 1-3/4" on the large end and take a large diameter bearing. The headset bearing cups I have 1-5/16" bearing cup o.d. but the large end measures 1-5/8". Where do I find a headset like that?


texts: Can I use a SRAM X0 Crank with Shimano XT chain rings?

texts:
I have a SRAM X0 crank on my MTB, and I want to buy some Shimano XT chain rings from a mate.  Will they fit?  Or is the BCD, Spider shapre, bolt size etc incompatible.

All are 10 speed.


texts: Is it possible to drop a foot in corners while using clipless pedals?

texts: My friends convinced me to try clipless pedals, that I never trusted too much (BMX background). Now while I'm getting used to them and experience very funny falls, I try to figure out, can a used-to-cleats rider drop his foot in a sandy corner, or the only thing he can do is to get used to proper race style cornering?


texts:
I ride %50 on road, %50 XC. When the roads are wet/rainy the bike dances with me. Thus, i want to change the tyres.

What I want is safe (in especially wet/rainy conditions) drive both on-road and off-road with a protection against puncture. However, I do not want to give all my effort to friction when I'm on the road.

Which properties should I search for?


texts:
Can a (20*1.35) tire fit on my rim that has a (20*2.125) tire on it now? Is there a general rule to know what tires are compatible with the rim?

For information a friend has the exact same bike with (20*1.50) tires on it if it can help...

Thank you in advance


texts: I've been commuting on a mountain bike these past 3 years. Now I want to get into road bike racing. Is it worth saving up money over a few months for a carbon fibre bike? Or should I just go and buy a good quality aluminum bike tomorrow?


texts:
I would like to take my quadcopter to interesting places. So I can do some flying and aerial photography etc.

Assuming a reasonably large quadcopter or drone - eg DJI Phantom, Cheerson CX-20, Syma X8C, or similar style. So about 350mm x 350mm square, and about 150 mm deep with the legs. It is possible to reduce this size a bit, by removing the propellers, legs, and camera, but I would rather not do that before each flight.

Plus the accessories required, eg the controller, spare batteries and camera.

So how to carry it comfortably and safely on a bike? Some sort of large messenger bag, or a rucksack? Or some way of attaching it to a rack?

It would need something to protect it from getting bashed, ie some sort of padding. And preferably some sort of cover to keep the rain off.


texts: Do pros ride with 1X configuration on some courses?

texts:
I'm looking at the first stage of the Tour of California, which is on a flat course (around Long Beach, USA).

Since there's no real dénivelé (french, "difference in height"), there is no need for a lot of gears.

So, do pro riders sometimes use 1X configuration on their bikes, either on criterium races or on flat courses, or on flat time trial courses?


texts: Why do riders swing the bike out sideways when jumping?

texts:
When people do really big jumps on a bicycle or motorcycle, they'll swing the tail of the bike way out to the side once they've taken off. Then it rotates back under them by the time they land.

Do they do this just because it looks cool? Or do they have to do it for stability reasons?

EDIT: After hunting up a bicycle image of this effect, it's clear that it's a trick.


texts: Does this abandoned 1976 Murray Alpine 26 I found have any significance or worth?

texts:
So earlier this week behind a local school I discovered something remarkable. Someone had put a old, wrecked women's bicycle in a pond.

The wheels toast, the chain rings are useless, rust in many spots and the handle bars take some effort to get them to turn. The frame itself isn't too bad, just has some rust and chipping paint everywhere.

Here are some photos of how I found it initially:

After closer inspection i noticed a decal on the top tube that read "Alpine 26" which I can only assume implies 26" wheels. Also there is a sticker on the down tube that reads:

"Lawrenceburg, TN 07 76"

Made July, 1976 in Tennessee?

I know Murray doesn't make bikes anymore and I heard that there quality of bikes went south in the 80s. I couldn't really bring myself to leave it there so I have it now and would simply like suggestions as to what to do with it.

Scrap/recycle?

Wall art?

I really don't think there is any point in restoring this unless I find another bike that has working components that could fit but a damaged frame or something for free/cheap.

So could this be significant at all? I don't have a clue as I can't find this model anywhere on the web.

Personally I feel like it's not, but just checking.


texts: Ultegra 9-speed brifter upshift problem - beyond WD-40?

texts:
I have a 2000 Ultegra 9-speed right/rear brifter that does not "release" the cable properly.

My initial search on this problem suggested that this could often be cured by flushing with WD-40. So I've done that, and the problem persists. But after comparing the operation of the right brifter with the left I got more insight on the problem.

It turns out that if I hold the outer lever vertical (i.e don't let it move), then the inner lever clicks and releases properly. But if I don't hold the outer lever, the inner one will eventually start pushing the outer lever around without the inner ever clicking.

So it seems to me that there is an arrangement like this:

Outer lever -> Inner actuator -> Inner lever

And there is supposed to be something between the outer lever and inner actuator that is offering resistance to the movement of the inner actuator so that the inner lever will be able to, umm... actuate the actuator.

So, is there an obvious adjustment or missing part that I should be looking for here. Or just more WD-40? It seems like the problem is not enough resistance, not too much, so it doesn't seem like a lube problem anymore.


texts: Replacement for Shimano Nexus 7 outer casing holder

texts:
I swapped my Nexus 7 sprocket with a new and the bracket apparently has a much larger diameter, so my cable is not stopped. The drawings that came along showed that I need an "outer casing holder" like http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-alfine-sl-s700-outer-casing-holder-unit-6tv-9806-prod32968/

Do you guys know of a work around? Or should I just go ahead and order it?


texts: Does anyone know what kind of bike this is?

texts: I found this bicycle a while back and have been planning on either fixing it up (if it's worth it) or selling it. All I have, really, is the frame. I haven't been able to find out exactly what it is and can't seem to find any markings on the frame. All I can tell is that it is a women's bike from the frame design. I'm not a big bike guy, so I don't know if it's even very old, although I would think it is due to the headlight. I would appreciate any help!


texts:
I purchased a new bicycle and I'm confused about the tire pressure.  The guy at the bicycle shop told me to inflate to at least 100psi.

However the bicycle itself has the words 'Maximum inflation - 65 PSI'

The bicycle is a Giant Escape.  I can't remember if they called it a commuter bicycle or a road cruiser (it doesn't have the drop style handlebars).  The tire itself is a 'Giant S-X3, 700x32' and it says '32-622'

I rode the bicycle at 65 psi and, while I'm new, it felt kind of low to me.  I wasn't hitting the rim or anything extreme like that; I just prefer a stiffer ride - but I'm afraid to go past what the tire has printed on it.

Can anyone tell me what I should be inflating my tire to?  I'm ~175 pounds if that matters, most of the sites I've found on the topic give recommendations based on weight.  Still, I'm worried about damaging the tire or rim.

I will be doing 100% street riding.

Thank you


texts: How can I tell if my tire is equipped with a tube?

texts: I have a puncture on my MTB tire. It says tubeless ready, but how do I know if it has a tube in it? Rims are sealed, it is a new bike around 6 months old.


texts:
So these are my five ten freerider elc shoes and I’ve had them from december last year (2017-present). The pedals on my bike are 2013 dmr v12 and cleaning my shoes recently I saw that a hole is being worn in and was wondering if that is normal wear and tear?

Cheers


texts: Why dual pivot brakes, not longer brake arms?

texts:
Dual pivot brakes are marketed as having "more braking power", which in technical terms means higher mechanical advantage. Exactly the same effect can be achieved by longer brake arms (ones which are pulled by the cable).
It was pointed out that dual pivot brakes are more convenient to center, which I disagree with, but that's a different question; here I'm asking about getting the same mechanical advantage without two pivots.
Is there a technical reason to use a more complicated construction? By "technical" I mean "not related to marketing". "Dual pivot" definitely sounds "cool" and probably sells well.


texts:
I bought a used BMC Granfondo 01 which has a carbon frame.

The frame is solid (no chips or cracks), but it's full of weird discolouration. It looks like there were be stickers in the places where discolouration appeared.  The paint is solid in the places of discolouration

The owner told me he bought it with the stains being there already and he assured me that he had no issues with the frame.

What could have caused this?


texts: Is there a 3rd party tool to create a heat map of all activities in a specific area?

texts:
I'm familiar with Jonathan O'Keeffe's Strava Multiple Ride Mapper (tied to the Strava API) but I'm interested in mapping all activities in a certain geopgraphy, not just those I've done.

My goal is to find new trails that I haven't explored so I'm interested in seeing all activities in a region from all users.

(Bonus points if it can then remove the roads/trails that I've logged activities on.)

ref: http://www.jonathanokeeffe.com/strava/map.php


texts:
One of the things that has come up in reports during the first rest day in the Tour de France this year is that the first mountain stage, especially following the rest day, is a shock to the legs.

Why is this, from a physiological level? What specific things can a rider do to more effectively make this transition?


texts: can you use a cycle path to bypass red lights?

texts: Okay, so this is my issue.  On my commute home there is a spot where there is a light straight ahead, before the white line the cycle lane mergers with the path on the left.  Does this mean i can bypass the light, or am i jumping it if it is red?


texts: Are there any light mounting products that is adjustable?

texts:
Let me try to explain my situation.

We have three bikes. We probably have about 3 or 4 locations where we may leave the bike (home, work, parent's place etc.)

We don't want to be carrying a light everywhere as most times we ride in the day time, so my plan is to leave one light at each place.

We have a bunch of lights already but each light generally come with one plastic mounting thing (that thing you put on your handle bar so the light will sit on) and all the lights I have seem to have different types of mounts.

So I guess I got two problems.

1) One light only has one mount, therefore one light can only go on one bike.
2) If I want to put a different light at each place, I pretty much need to put about a couple of mounts on each of the bikes.

I guess one solution is to throw away my existing lights and just invest in 4 of the same brand of lights. But just in case, is there like adjustable mounts I can get which would fit all lights and for which I can essentially just mount on each bike and each light would fit on it?

I've also heard of Knog Frog lights which seem convenient but they look too small to be safe for me.


texts: Daily commuting - are dietary supplements recommended?

texts:
I've been commuting daily (Apart from holidays, illness and some other exceptions) for the past year, riding 12 miles daily (6 miles with 500ft height gain coming in, 6 miles 232ft height gain riding back) on a hybrid.

Recently there have been times when I've been feeling quite run down by the weekend, lacking energy. It could just be a virus doing the rounds, but it made me wonder if there was a specific diet or dietary supplement that would be of benefit to a daily commuteer.


texts: How safe is to use 700x25-32C tube on a 32C tire?

texts:
I know this question begs a clear "of course" answer. But is there any drawbacks stretching the tube to its maximal proportions provided by manufacturer?

Are tubes even more elastic/stretchy so using maximal width isn't nearly as much as this tube can handle? I always worry that inflating the tube to 80-85psi and maximal width can lead to more frequent, irreparable flats.


texts: Why (and how) would someone steal only my innertube?

texts:
Upon my return from winter holidays, I found that someone had stolen the rear innertube from my locked bike. They took only the innertube: the rear wheel was still there, the chain correctly attached, and the bike otherwise seems untouched (so far at least, for obvious reasons I haven't ridden it yet).

I had the front tire and the frame locked to a bike rack.
The bike is stored indoors in a common bike room for my apartment building, so access is somewhat restricted to those with a key.

Why (and how) would someone steal just the innertube?


texts: Red bike frame BMX don't know what it is

texts: I have a red bmx bike with flat plates on both sides in the front it has circles through them I don't know what kind of bike it is it's just the frame I bought from a friend he said he thought it was a diamond back but I never seen one of them made like this one can anyone help me out. Thanks


texts:
I went test riding a second hand bike. During the test I have found that the stem was wobbly around the axis defined by the red star in the picture.

I have tried changing the tilt of the stem to check if it depended on the position, to no good. The stem kept oscillating up and down around that axis.

Is it a serious issue (so a no go for the bike) or is something that can be easily fixed?


texts: Need to replace tire on Dahon folding bike

texts:
I bought a Dahon Vitesse D8 two years ago and it's lasted extremely well so far. Recently, the rear tire got a puncture and as my tires both looked pretty worn, I thought it might be time to look into getting replacements.

I was looking to get some tyres for cycling on roads and occasionally on gravel/canal paths. but I'm now a bit overwhelmed with the amount of tyres available. Could anyone suggest what I should be looking for in a tyre?


texts: While trying to put a new chain on a bike, I rather stupidly removed the "wrong" link in the chain, and it's already very short, so I can't simply remove yet another link in order to get the "correct" combination of links for connecting the chain back together (see the parts in the photo); Is there any way to put the chain pins back in in order to make the chain useable?


texts:
I have a modern bike (ridgeback meteor '13) and It currently has a 21 speed shimano chainset.
I find that going down hills (which I do a lot) and on flats I need a higher gear.
Can I do anything to get a higher gear ratio (such as a bigger large chainring) or am I already at the top?

Spec:
48/38/28 Chainrings
12-32 (7 Speed) Cassette:


texts:
I have an early 80s Schwinn Prelude. I need to replace the rear wheel.
The question at hand is should I spend $300 on a pair of NOS (new old stock) Superbe Pro hubs, which have the original 126 mm spacing it came with, or should I respace the rear dropouts to accommodate a modern spacing (130 mm). I like my current gear ratio as well as the classic downtube shifters. I could be convinced to modernize to bar shifters and 8-10 speed cassette but I'd like to see what my options are.
The fundamental question is as follows: is a vintage high end component set better than a mid range modern set (eg. Tiagra)? Specifically the hubs and bearings?


texts: Distance discrepancies between Strava and bike computer

texts: I have an established 16 mile mountain bike loop I've been riding for a long time. I recently purchased a Magellan Cyclo 315 bike computer which I load files to Strava Premium from. Everything works great except the distance data. The distance value on the computer is always very close to 16 miles, but when I upload the data to Strava (.gpx file) the distance is between 15.2 and 15.4 miles. Any suggestions on how to correct this problem?


texts: Does anyone know of a machinist who could convert a dual ring Campy Nuovo Record chainset ('spider') to accept a 3rd chainring?

texts: I have a 1971 Raleigh International whose Campagnolo Nuovo Record chainset has Campy pedals that are 'frozen' into their threads (I know, this is an instance of neglected maintenance).  I really like this bike and its components - pedals included - and would like to have lower gearing than typically possible with a 2-ring chainset (have 42 rear/34 front, now). I'm looking for a master bike machinist who could tap an additional set of 5 holes to accept the 5 sleeves for a triple crankset?


texts: Aluminum frame quality - how much variation can there be and how to tell?

texts:
Take a look at these two aluminum frames. The first one is a $1k bike, and the second one is a $200 bike.

Is there a significant quality difference between these frames? And if so, how can I appraise the quality of an aluminum frame (other than weighing it)?.

I can see that the more expensive frame has smoother welds with larger, curved tubes, but it's a completely unscientific observation.


texts:
I was on a ride a few months ago and while shifting, my chain came out of my derailleur. So this is a little confusing. Let me explain. The chain was resting on the outside of the bottom part of the rear derailleur cage. There is a little silver cylinder behind the lower jockey wheel that touches but doesn't actually connect the two sides of the cage. Somehow my chain go pushed to the outside of that. When it happened it felt like the chain had gotten shifted off and my cranks jammed up. I stopped pedaling as quick as I could.
Anyways, to get home I had to take out the bolt that secures the bottom jockey wheel in the cage, and open the cage up to get the chain back on the correct side of the silver cylinder. I put the jockey wheel back in with the chain in place and limped home.
I took the bike to the LBS and explained the problem. They didn't know what might have caused it. They checked the hanger, and it was a little out of alignment, but they said it wasn't that bad and fixed it. I also asked them to check that the derailleur itself wasn't bent, but who knows if they actually did that.
Flash forward to yesterday and the same thing happened. I fixed it the same way and limped home again. I've never seen this before and definitely don't want it to happen when I am sprinting.
A few things:

My derailleur is an 11 speed Dura-Ace.
Chain is not worn/bent/no frozen links
Cassette is near new
I was shifting both times, but not putting a lot of power down.
Hanger should have been OK.
The bike has less than 1,000 miles on it
I didn't notice any wear on the bolt or threads and the bolt was tight as could be with locktite in the threads both times

Any idea what might be going on/how to fix it?


texts: Best rear derailleur for a Schwinn ranger?

texts:
A few days ago the cog on my Schwinn Ranger rear bike derailleur broke in half after changing gears.

I examined the cog and it was made of flimsy plastic. Was wondering if I could put a new/different rear derailleur on there for this same make and model but of higher quality, with metal cogs.

The bike derailleur that was on there before was a Shimano tourney tx which go for about $6 online. Want to upgrade but not sure how to go about it or what is the correct ratios and such for it.

I know with car parts everything has to be in accordance with the brand and specs. What rear bike derailleurs would be the best fit for a Schwinn Ranger? 21-speed.


texts: restoring old bike, remove scratched stickers, yes or no?

texts:
I'm restoring the first adult bike I owned.

It has about 30 years and was made by a brand that no longer exists, which makes it some sort of a semi-relic :)

My problem is that the brand stickers at the frame, are very scratched and I plan to paint the frame and so probably they will have to be removed...

I've read that when restoring an old bike the stickers are important, and I think this is a matter of "are the stickers that important in this particular bike?".

In other words, should I keep the stickers and try to restore the rest of the frame the best that I can, or just remove them and do a proper restore?

To be honest, this bike's value isn't that much, even with its semi-relic status, I'm just afraid of making the mistake of taking the stickers and find out that it was best to leave them on. This combined to my urge to take a lot of pictures in high-quality to preserve a record of how it looked before the restoration, and then work on it stripped from any sticker, with a proper paint job and all.


texts: Derailleur-shifters compatibility Shimano GRX

texts:
Shimano writes in the description of the Shimano GRX Shadow Plus RD-RX812 11-speed rear derailleur that it is compatible with shifters GRX ST-RX810 and ST-RX600 shift/brake levers.
Should I understand that it is "only" with these shifters because of a pulling ratio different from their road but also from their MTB standard? An information that I can't find anywhere. Or is the derailleur a standard road one compatible with their road shifters?


texts: Is it good practice to wave following cars through when safe?

texts:
When I am being followed by a car that is unable to safely overtake, I would normally take the lane and adopt primary position as recommended, making an obvious move to secondary position once it is safe for them to overtake.

Sometimes the car doesn't immediately try to overtake and may miss the opportunity to get past me, even though it is legal and, in the cyclist's opinion, safe to do so. If I can see further around the corner (being further ahead) that the road is clear, should I wave them through, or leave the decision up to them?

I'm interested in safety and legal issues as well as avoiding irritating motorists for the good of cyclists generally.


texts:
The rear brake lever on my hybrid does not seem to snap back after I release as quickly as it used to, and it doesn't release as quickly as the front brake.

These are standard Shimano V brakes, in service for about 6-8 months.

I suspect that I need to lubricate something, but I am not sure what.


texts: Correct cable end for Shimano BL-M421 brake lever

texts:
I have a Specialized mtb that has been changed over from V-brakes to disc brakes (by previous owner). After using it for a while, I've noticed binding in the brakes which I think is due to the way the cable ends attach to the levers. Both L+R levers have the cylindrical cable end sitting in a weird way inside the lever that makes it look like a part is missing.

]2
What is missing here, and/or how can I get the cable end to sit correctly in the lever and not be twisted?
Thanks


texts: What to get? How do I know whether what I'm looking at is a BSO? (Bicycle Shaped Object); what should I do about the multiple chainrings?

texts:
I'm about to get a ridiculously cheap bike (~$200) sometime soon and have limited my options to two bikes.
One is the BTwin Riverside 120, which people here in India who have put up reviews don't seem very happy about..
https://www.decathlon.in/p/8389398/bikes/hybrid-cycle-riverside-120-grey-yellow
Another one is Mach City Munich 21 speed.
https://machcity.com/munich-21-speed/
The reviews I've read about it are great everywhere I've read them on the internet, and the bike store guy also said that it's a great bike (he's trusted). However, since both are different brands, he couldn't draw out a comparison of which one would be better..
Anyone who can help? It'd be primarily ridden on bad Indian roads (image attached for reference, that's not how all parts of the road are, but significant enough to be considered).
Both have 700×35c stock tyres and can accommodate 38c tyres as well.
If I choose to buy a Mach City Munich 21 speed, I'd also like to know if I should simply remove two chainrings of three (if they're detachable, which I am yet to find out) to help "ease" my riding? It'd be mostly ridden on flat terrain with maybe a 50m 5-6% climb, so I'm not sure, but I don't really think I have any practical use of three chainrings.. By ease, I mean I want to eliminate the risk of putting the chains through a lot of stress and risking the chain falling off every now and then while also causing more wear and tear to the parts than is supposed to happen. I happen to be a student who doesn't really want to go to a bike repair shop all the time, so I'd try maintaining it myself, I've obtained resources for the same in a previous question of mine, thanks to the community here.. If the suggestions still remain to keep the triple chainrings, how to I "properly" shift gears? Is there any guide for the same?
Since I'm buying a rather "expensive" bike for the first time, what else should I be getting with the bike? I've currently understood that I should be getting a helmet, a good quality lock, mud-guards that cover the whole wheel (we actually have a monsoon season), a bottle stand, and a bell. I won't be buying lights because I am not thinking about riding in the dark. I want the bike to last as long as it can, so should I also get a chainstay protector? Anything else that I should be getting?
How do I know something is a BSO (Bicycle Shaped Object)? I also want to know whether any of them are a BSO? I don't even clearly understand what BSO means, given the fact that I don't have a "proper" bicycling experience (I've only ever ridden a ~$60-70 ss bike as of yet).. Are BSOs bad to have?
I've read various questions related to BSOs here but none seemed to answer my query.. I may have missed out on a relevant one though, but I tried not to.


texts: What kind of pump/attachment do I need for this? (picture)

texts:
I am having trouble identifying what tools I need to pump these tires.

We bought some kind of kit that came with multiple attachments and none of them worked. Wondering if something is missing?

All I've ever used before is a presta valve so I am not too well versed in this stuff. Thanks for your help!


texts: How long does it take to replace bottom bracket bearings? Is there anything that can make the procedure take more or less time? How does the type of mechanism affect repair time?


texts: What is the best place to buy a folding bike for $350-$400 in Canada?

texts:
I'm looking to buy a folding bike for my commute to work and want to spend $350-400. The bikes at Vela.ca look very good but I want to make sure I get the best deal.
Shipping costs are also a concern. Vela has a flat rate of $35 which is very low.


texts: How do I tell what width chain my used chainring needs?

texts:
I bought a used crankset from my local bike collective. It has a single 44-tooth chainring and I intend to use it for a single speed conversion with a new cog and chain, but I need to figure out what dimensions of those latter components to buy.

Most advice I see online says that single speed and internal gear hubs use 1/8" chain, while derailleur bikes use 3/32" chain. Great! Doesn't help me here: I don't know what kind of bike this crankset came from. It's only got one chainring, but that doesn't mean it couldn't have come from a bike with a rear derailleur and 6 speeds (or what have you).

So, I resort to measuring. Is it as simple as 'if the width appears to be 3/32", that's what I need'? Or are there subtleties in the dimensions of the chain and the chainring that I need to look out for?


texts: Hybrid bike - would like to switch to a single front chainring, what are my options?

texts:
I have this bike (19" size):

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/elite_trail_x4.htm

I'm doing some things to it to simplify it and reduce its weight for my city commute I've been doing for about two years. I've replaced the front suspension fork with one that's fixed and of the proper geometry, and this helps in both areas.

Next, I'd like to focus on gearing and save both complexity and weight. It's currently setup as it came from BikesDirect, so this means:

Crankset:
SUNTOUR CW9-XCC 28/38/48T
175MM(18~23")ALLOY BLACK CRANK

Front Derailleur:
SRAM FD-3.0-A1 TOP PULL

Rear Derailleur:
SRAM RD-X4-A1 SILVER CAGE

Cassette/Chain:
CKHC 11-32T-8spd / KMC Z-72

I'm considering replacing the entire crankset - but in the meantime, I'd like to go from 3 chainrings to 1. I don't use the largest ring at all in my commute, and I find myself using the granny gear in a couple specific situations, and the easiest half of my middle ring. Typically, my bike just stays on the middle ring unless I'm doing a serious climb (which happens once on my commute). Basically, I don't need speed on downhills as I'm not racing anyone so I'm typically using the brakes to moderate my speed on big downhills anyways. I need a decently easy gear for a small portion of my ride (getting up the Manhattan bridge) but otherwise it's very level riding.

My questions:

Is there a single-ring option that would give me a 2/3 of my easy gear and the easy 1/3 of my middle gear that I could direct swap onto my existing crankset and remove the other two chainrings entirely?
Is this setup safe (1x8) if I remove the front derailleur and shifter where if I shifted to the extremes of my cassette I wouldn't drop my chain - and if not - do you recommend something to go on the front to help hold it on without having to keep the front derailleur?
If #1 isn't an option, is there a crankset I could switch to that would make this setup possible?

Thanks!

Edit:
in a brief spin around the internet, I found some single-chainring options that I have no idea of compatibility:

https://www.bikeparts.com/BPC394186/raceface-evolve-ss-crank-175mm-nw32t-black-9-10-11

https://www.bikeparts.com/BPC169250/sram-gx-1400-1x11-bb30-crankset-32t-x-sync-175mm-red

Seeing as I have an 8 speed cassette, and the first one says 9/10/11 and the second is a 1x11, I'm not sure how compatible these are. Help?!


texts: My front suspension keeps auto locking, brand new bike. Bike shops useless right now

texts:
I bought a Daymak Wildgoose electric fatbike bicycle. It has Forgo Zoom front suspension which I know is a lower end shock.

Since riding away from the store when I unlock the suspension and hit any bumps the suspension locks up and doesn't work. Even with the switch still in the unlocked position. For it to work again I have to move into the locked position and then back to unlocked. But as soon as I hit a tiny bump they lock straight away again.

I talked to the shop about it but given the times were going through right now they are near useless. If anyone has any ideas as to how i can fix this on my own please throw `em at me. Thank you in advance.


texts: Novice: can I replace this bike trailer clamp with an axle one?

texts:
I bought this trailer from FB marketplace. I am concerned about the clamp and feel it's not a very safe option.
Is there a way I can replace this easily with a hitch that sits in the axle? Not looking for anything customized.
In worst case, I'll sell this trailer and get something with the proper hitch.
Thank you!


texts:
My road bike is aluminum with a carbon rear triangle.  The carbon rear slides into the aluminum, and I believe was bonded with some sort of epoxy.  The pieces have begun to separate after 2.5 years and the company will not warranty the frame.

Is it possible to repair this by inserting epoxy into the gap and sliding the carbon back in place?  What sort of precautions should I take, and epoxy should I use?

If I can pull the carbon out further, should I sand the two surfaces before re-bonding?


texts:
I have two sets of wheels, both laced to surly singlespeed hubs (the older "new" hubs, not the "ultra new" hubs which seem to make this process much easier).

Anyway the wheelset I like better has a quick release rear, and the other has a nutted axle.  After riding the QR for a year, I've found I don't really like it.  I wanted to go QR for easier on-trail flat changing, but since switching to the new (tubeless) wheels I haven't had a single flat.  So I'm wishing I had the nutted axle on my newer wheels, as it felt a lot stronger.

What I'm wondering is if there's a way I can disassemble the hubs and get the nutted axle onto my new wheels.  I haven't taken apart a hub before but as I understand it these hubs use cartridge bearings, which I suspect makes the process a bit easier.


texts:
Can anyone help identify this bike ?

It is a Vivente bike but I cant figure out the model.


texts:
I've refurbished a vintage bike and I switched the old derailleur with a new medium cage tourney derailleur, the chain is also new and is 114 links long, which should be fine since me largest cog on the rear is 24 teeth and in the front is 52 teeth and distance between bb and cassette is 45cm, however, although I can shift to all gears the cage is really being stretched, is this a problem? should I try to refurbish the old worn derailleur?

see attached pics

Thanks in advance :)]3


texts: Clicking noise in rear wheel that stops on load. Bearings?

texts:
The bike is a Merida Speeder 10 flatbar and about a month old.

I've noticed a rhythmic clicking from the rear wheel. At first I thought the wheel may be bent and the break pads were catching, but that is fine. I also noticed that the noise stops when there is load, eg: when I am pedaling up a hill.

The noise occurs both when cruising and when free wheeling. It happens in any gear and at any speed.

Could the bearing be worn?


texts:
For attaching graphics to a painted metal bike frame, is there a better option than Scotch tape or clear packing tape?  I'm looking for something transparent and adhesive, but not so adhesive it can't be repositioned or removed later.

The graphics I have in mind are home-printed "stickers" (but on printer paper, so they don't have adhesive) and registration marks for things like seat and handlebar position and angle.  I'm not up to speed on painting, so that's not an option.

Scotch tape isn't fully transparent and I don't think it's going to last.

Clear packing tape is nice because it's clear but the adhesive can be hard to remove after a while without using things that can damage paint.

The project's coming along.  I'll have a final report after I try some with sticker paper in the printer.

Here's a picture taken when using Gorilla Clear Repair Tape (on seat tube above the FD) and packing tape (below the FD).  For anyone horrified by the condition of the frame, keep in mind this is my beater bike, meant to look not worth stealing.  If it hadn't come this way I'd have had to distress it on purpose.

Sizing tests on the frame and a reminder on the stem, both with Scotch tape.  The one on the stem has been holding for three months.


texts: Does riding bicycles reduce sperm count?

texts: I have heard this many times before. Is there scientific evidence for this fact? Or have any of you come across this in your lives?


texts:
Once a week I take my bike to the local supermarket to do my shopping.  My panniers fill up really quickly and I always end up with bags on my handlebars (for UK people - the bags I'm talking about are the big blue Tescos reusable ones).  Even with a backpack thrown into the mix, I still need to carry at least one bag, usually.

I know that there are plenty of easy solutions to the core problem (shop more often, take the bus, persuade a friend with a car to drive me there, etc) but let's look at the more fun side of things: what's the best way of getting a very large amount of shopping on my bike.  I have a rear rack so suggestions for really big (backpack sized, large shopping bag sized or bigger) panniers and rack boxes would be useful, but let's not limit it to just that.

Also, if you do your shopping on your bike and have a similar problem, what do you do?


texts:
I have a Babboe City cargo bike with a Shimano Nexus 7 rear hub. Just coming into home on my last ride there was a bit of noise from the drivetrain and, on closer inspection, some other symptoms. The back wheel now has a wobble that is coming, as far as I can see, from somewhere inside the hub (i.e. this is not a broken spoke or similar issue, the hub wobbles along with the wheel). I tried taking a couple of videos, apologies for the shaky camera but I hope the issue is visible. I think it's probably clearer in the first link below. The wobble is present when turning the pedals backward, i.e. the drive is not engaged, and seems to be unchanged when I change gears.

Along with this, the pedals get 'pulled along' by the rear wheel (another video below). Holding the pedals in place will allow the read wheel to keep spinning without any horrible noise, but there is some rubbing noise coming from inside the hub (?) which causes the back wheel to come to a stop rather quickly. To my ear the noise sounds like bearings rubbing (?), but not crunching or grinding.

I'm trying to assess whether I'm looking at a repair, either to be done myself or by a shop, or looking into replacing the hub (or wheel). I'm reluctant to open it up without a plan, since from the diagrams I've seen it's not the simplest of mechanisms. In terms of overall maintenance skill level I'm reasonably experienced. I have an '80s era road bike that I maintain myself, and I either have or would be comfortable adjusting or replacing any part on that bike. However, I've never worked on an enclosed hub.


texts: Can a BBright bottom bracket that now houses a 24 mm spindle be changed to 30 mm?

texts:
Cervélo bikes use a bottom bracket standard known as BBRight. I recently bought a Cervélo with a Shimano crankset, but I'd like to use a Quarq BB30 crankset.

I read that BB30 was compatible with BBright, but didn't do my homework properly. The Shimano spindle is 24 mm in diameter, while BB30 cranksets are 30 mm.

Can the BBright bottom bracket be changed to one that'll accommodate my Quarq power meter crankset?


texts:
I have recently joined the cycling world after committing to losing weight. I am a heavy rider at about 28st (390 lbs) and have after some advice gone for a GT Avalanche. I have had the bike less than a month and only have around 15 miles on the bike.

I use the bike to travel to work which varies from light off road to road.

I was riding back from work and realised that the wheel had started to buckle. Upon getting home I have noticed that some of the spokes were loose. Is this normal and if not is it due to the weight the bike is being asked to carry? Will a home fix be enough to mend the issue?

Update:

I have contacted the seller who has advised me to get booked for their free 6 week service where they can service the bike and they can also true the wheels.

The question I have now is until I am able to get the bike serviced am I able as a temporary measure able to fix this at home and use it as I use the bike for getting to and from work?


texts:
I have a carbon trek Emonda bicycle. Today, my rear derailleur got caught in my wheel. As a result, the rear derailleur is bent, the rear derailleur hanger snapped off, the chain got twisted and the right seat stay got scratched.
Is the scratch on my right seat stay too dangerous to ride again? It goes about 1-2 mm at the deepest part of the scratch.


texts: How to tell if compression damping settings are working?

texts: This is an embarrassing novice question ... I got a mountain bike with a fork that has low and high speed compression damping settings. This is the first time I am riding a bike with an air fork. I do not have experience with them. I cannot notice any difference in the fork's behaviour when going from minimum to maximum damping or vice versa. In contrast, I can notice a difference in the rebound setting. Is this normal? How can I determine if it is working correctly?


texts: How should disc brake rotor size scale with wheel size?

texts:
I was wondering whether 20" wheels can get away with smaller rotors than 28" wheels, and if there is a correlation, if it is linear. If it was linear, then 140mm discs on a 20" wheel would be equivalent to 200mm discs on a 28" wheel (and it would be unnecessary to mount anything bigger for pretty much any application).

At a given forward speed, the circular speed of the rotor scales up linearly with decreasing wheel size, which on smaller wheels should help with the cooling and should provide higher friction power and thus higher braking power.

But I can't find any source confirming this, so I'm asking here.


texts: Is it OK if my brake pads are not “just” touching the rotor in my cable disc brake bike?

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Mountain bike, cable disc brakes.

My bike suddenly took a lot of effort to ride after maintenance. So I loosened the cable locking bolt and released more cable for my bike.

It’s running much better now and the brakes seem to work fine though looser, but not so loose that the lever go too close to the handlebars once engaged.

On online resources I see that they adjust the brakes so that they are just touching the disc? If the gap between the brake pads and rotor is bigger but the brakes are not too loose, is that ok too?


texts: Cycling traffic signs and rules in Germany

texts: I'm over 30 and have just started cycling in real traffic, my first experience, as I have only ever ridden as a child in parks and such. I live in a university town in the state of Baden-Württemberg in Germany. Unfortunately, I have no clue about traffic signs as I neither drive nor hold a drivers license. Could someone recommend a place where I can learn about the traffic signs for cyclists, what they mean, the rules for cyclists, safe riding guidelines, etc? I have tried reading the legal rules, but my German is basic and those make my head hurt. Perhaps a site with photos of signs,simple language (either german or english)would be wonderful. I hope that all the cycling enthusiasts here can help me ride safely and correctly.


texts: Clipless shoes & pedals and long distance

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For the past few months, I have been thinking about clipless pedals.
I am mostly a long distance rider. I go for the randonneuring and long distance triathlons.

From various sources, I am informed that I can increase speed wearing clipless pedals but not ride long distances like 600 km or 1000 km. These are not expert sources. I want to hear from experts.

Can you please tell me if I can go for clipless shoes and pedals for long distances?


texts: Ultegra 6800 shifter with R8000 rear derailleur?

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I'd like to replace a Shimano 105 5800 11-28 cassette on one of my bikes (CAADX 2016) with a CS-HG800-11 11-34 to get a wider range of gears.

My rear derailleur is Ultegra RD-6800-SS, which can't take a cassette this big. I am thinking of replacing it with RD-R8000-GS (current generation of Ultegra, medium cage, takes up to 34t).

Are there any potential issues to be aware of with this combo (6800 shifter, R8000 derailleur, CS-HG800-11 cassette)?

P.S. The bike has a 44/34T cyclocross crankset. Both the front shifter and the derailleurs are Ultegra 6800 (11-speed). I plan to keep all of that as-is.


texts: sram grip shifter to be fox CTD shock remote lever

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the FOX shock CTD remote is a nice shock, but the remote is bulky, even the new 2014 version, still uneasy to change between CTD.

I come across this article
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-clever-levers-37844/

the mechanics of Jerome manage to tweak by sram grip shifter to be the fox shock remote lever.
it's such a very nice hack indeed.
I wonder if anyone did it as well?

would one please post the step by step guide?


texts: I am looking at a full suspension MTB with an Aluminium frame. It's cheap but needs to be welded as the frame is cracked. The bike is a Cult Insomnia 52 inch. It's cracked at the lower bracket, is it scrap or worth a repair?