texts:
I started to bike regularly about a month ago. A few days ago I had my first serious crash. I was going at a decent speed on the road and then slipped and fell on concrete.

I am less confident about riding again. Part of it is because it happened so suddenly and when I was not expecting it.

I want to know how often do crashes happen to bikers? Also how do you recover from them, both physically and mentally?


texts:
I'm going to be re-taping my bars for the first time soon, and I was thinking about a putting an extra layer of tape for just slightly increased diameter and padding. I have big hands, but I don't want the padding kits that are available, as I think that might be too much.

Is this under-taping at all common? I was thinking about using cloth medical-style tape. Would this be a good choice?

(I don't race, just exercise/commute/day-trip, will be getting compact drop-bars)


texts: Do higher speed crashes result in less serious injuries.

texts:
I have heard that the severity of injuries tend to decrease while riding a road bike at high speed. An instance of high speed would be like those in the Tour de France.

The reasoning behind this idea is "enough" speed allows the cyclist to "roll" upon landing thus decreasing the chance of breaking bones for example.

This seems contrary to my basic knowledge of physics and momentum, so, is it true?


texts: Frame sizing: "medium" vs. inches vs. centimeters

texts:
How in the world does 17-18 inches match up to 53-54 cm??

I was looking up bicycle sizing charts and found the ones on the Evans website interesting, if somewhat confusing. For example, see the chart for Hybrid frame sizes: http://www.evanscycles.com/help/bike-sizing#hybrid

Looking at the suggested frame sizes, I guess I don't understand how the inches vs. centimetres match up. A frame size of 17-18 inches or "M" is listed as being equivalent to a frame size of or 53-54 cm, however, a simple conversion shows that 17-18 inches is roughly equal to 43-46 cm. Strange!

Thanks!


texts: PF30 cup came out of frame, can it be pressed back in or should it be replaced?

texts:
I have a carbon bike frame with a PF30 bottom bracket. The bottom bracket suffers from creaking when applying high pedaling forces (high for me that is).

I removed the crank to check the state of the bearings, and to see if the crank axle has been under-rotating in the inner bearing races. As usual the crank needed to be tapped out of the bearings with a soft-faced hammer. Unfortunately, the axle stuck in the drive side bearing and the plastic PF30 bearing cup and bearing came out of the frame.

Obviously the force was applied to the inner race, but I was not tapping the axle very hard, so I don't think the bearing was damaged.

Can I press the cup back into the frame, perhaps using some retaining compound, or should I replace the cups (which will mean replacing the bearings I believe)? My concern is that the plastic cup has been deformed by being extracted and is now undersized.


texts: Stupid question: does my rear derailleur have a hanger?

texts: I don't see it. The place where it should be seems to be part of the frame. If not, why not?


texts: Why does cable routing utilize alternation of sections of shielded and unshielded cable?

texts:
Why do manufacturers do this? What's even more interesting, many a bike have the middle cable fully housed, while the other two are "interrupted" as shown above.

IMHO those are the pros and cons of interrupting cable housing:

Advantages:

lighter

Disadvantages:

more complicated to cut to length and install
more friction as there are a lot of enter/exit points for the cable into the housing
far more susceptible to dirt and water
more expensive, because of end caps and labor cost.

As is evident, in my opinion, all cables should have uninterrupted housing. However, all kinds of bikes in all price ranges have these intermissions - on the top tube, bottom tube, seatstay (for the RD). And it is not a factor of weight, as 10-year old massive steel frames also utilize it.

There must be an explanation. But what is it?


texts:
I am transitioning from mountain bike shoes to road bike shoes.  A marked difference is the limitation of versatility in cleat placement.  I prefer to have my cleat as far up and to the inner side of my foot as possible - pretty much at the balls of my feet.  This was possible with my mountain bike shoes but no longer.

It feels weird to have the cleat so centered on my foot.  I feel like I can't use my calves as strategically now.  Is this because it's more efficient to have the cleat central to the foot?  Looking for explanation or advice. Thanks!


texts:
This response to another question provides a wealth of info on winter riding preparation, but doesn't mention any techniques for preventing cables, especially brake cables, from freezing.

Is there a particular type of lubricant that is especially effective in preventing frozen cables?  Would WD-40 or the like be appropriate?  What other techniques are useful?


texts: What is the name of those Old Timey Bikes?

texts:
The bikes with a huge front wheel and small rear, with the cranks attached directly to the front wheel... What are they called?

Additionally, it seems they need to be very tall in order for you to achieve a full pedal stroke, so how is one supposed to mount this archaic device?


texts: Shimano 105 10 and 11 speed compatibility

texts:
Currently I have on my bike the Shimano 105 system (2 years old) with 10 speed cassette. Currently I am buying a new wheelset (Fulcrum Racing zero) made for Shimano 11 cassette. I was told that I can use my 10 speed cassette but I was planing to upgrade to 11 speed cassette in the future. Is the Shimano 11 speed cassette that comes with the latest Shimano 105 compatible with older 105 systems?

I apologize in advance if I don't make myself too clear.

Thanks for any help


texts: Best practice for patching snakebite pinch flats on skinny tubes

texts:
So, I tend to run 700x23c or 700x25c tires on my commuter bike. Sometimes I'm lazy and forget to check the air pressure and inevitably get a pinch flat when I hit some stationary object, pothole, or big curb.

When I get a snakebike type of pinch flat (2 holes somewhat separated, usually on opposite sides of a ridge in the tube, I find it hard to patch.

Either I use a small patch without having the small patch only extend past the holes 1mm or 2mm and usually placed over the ridge/seam in the tube, or I use a large patch which is really hard to apply since it is wider than the tube (making it hard to apply glue and appropriate pressure to patch when gluing) but provides coverage for both holes at once.

Park tool GP-2 glueless patches seem to work ok for this situation since they can easily be overlapped without issue.  However, I hear anecdotal evidence that they are not as durable as patches used with vulcanizing fluid.

What is the preferred way to patch these type of tricky flats?


texts: What to do when there's no more adjustment room on disc brakes

texts: I just built up a new frame and discovered that, due to slightly different geometry the rear disc caliper can't be adjusted so that it doesn't rub. Basically I've got them all the way over to one side and it's still not enough. Can I fix this without getting new brake calipers? They're Shimano BR-M406 hydraulic caliper BTW.


texts:
If have a Shimano FH-M475 rear hub, the cones are pitted and need replacement, the bearing cup on the drive side is pitted, probably still usable, but will never be great. The left side cup is still good.

My question is can the drive side cup be replaced, is it part for the freewheel, or is the hub toast and do I need to use it as an excuse to upgrade to something a lot better?

This is a bike that has only done around 1000km (all off road in mostly dry) conditions. The grease in the hubs was clean when I stripped the hubs. Any reason why the hubs (front one has trashed the cones, but not the bearing race, back one trashed the cones and on race) have failed so quickly? Could it be over tightened in the shop? I never checked the hubs, the wheels were on the bike when bought new from the shop, and have never been removed. There was no play in the wheels, so I never had reason to check the bearings.


texts:
I'm just about to buy a new bike.  It comes with Shimano R501 wheels, which are rather lightly spoked (20 front, 24 rear).

I weigh about 230lbs (I'm 6'6") - do you think it'll be worth getting a better pair of wheels with more spokes?  Or will I be well within the tolerance levels for the wheels?

Thanks


texts: How to ship a full suspension bike frame without the shock?

texts: I'm shipping a full suspension bike frame without a shock and I'm looking for a good way to ensure the seat post tube doesn't get banged up by the rear shock mount or triangle. In the past I have zip tied them together but this frame is in excellent condition and I'd prefer it to not get scratched up in transit. I have seen the plastic dummy bars, but I don't know what they're called and can't find one locally anyway. Does anyone have any suggestions for keeping the two halves stable in transit?


texts: Are road bikes durable for use on roads full of cracks and potholes?

texts:
I live in Reading UK and commute between home and workplace 5-6 days a week (round trip about 6-7 miles). I know that hybrids are good enough for pretty much anything, but I find road bikes really light and good for the job, especially to go around curbs and very high slopes (about 45 degrees). However, most of the roads in Reading are quite broken and full of potholes and cracks. I wonder if it is a good idea for me to use road bikes in general for my daily commute? How badly will it affect me?

A specific example of cracks and potholes I am referring to can be found here or here.

I am really frustrated and want to know how badly will I damage a road bike if ridden on these kinds of roads.


texts: Mechanical Engineering Designing/ Analyzing Stress in the beam members of a bicycle

texts:
This question is for those who are familiar with analytical engineering of bikes (not using Finite element analysis)

Okay guys, I'm trying to do an optimization project on the frame of a bicycle to minimize the weight.  My trouble is that I know I cannot treat the members as two force members (meaning the only force in them occurs axially since there is bending because of the weld joints).  Does anyone know how to go about this? or how to model the weld joints as forces acting on beams so maybe a superposition method can be used.
Anyone know or have a good source for this?


texts: I have a mountain bike with a 7 speeds in on the back cog and 3 on the front. I recently got a Kickr Core. To use with my mountain bike could I use something like a Shimano 7 Speed Cassette, 12-28T, CS-HG200?


texts: Mountain bicycle miles convert to road bicycle miles

texts: Recently I rode 26 miles (42 km) on my mountain bicycle on a dirt/rock mountain trail.  How far could I ride on a road bicycle?  I was thinking of riding in a 100k (62 miles) and wondering if my fitness from a mountain bike could be translated to a road bike.


texts:
How much of an impact does tire width have on the performance of a bicycle?

I am in the process of buying my first real bicycle and am having trouble deciding between a more traditional road bike with 25mm tires versus an "adventure" bike with 32mm tires.  The manufacturers description for the second specifically mentions paths and trails with variable terrain while the road bike only mentions different weather conditions.

Most of my local riding would be on paved trails where I wouldn't expect any problems with the road bike.  However, there is a possibility that I would also like to do some packed dirt canal towpaths that are a little further away.  Ideally one bike would be good in both locations.

Is it a terrible idea to try and use a road bike anywhere but pavement?  How much of a difference does a wider tire make while riding on pavement?


texts: Installing Alfine shifter with nexus 8 hub

texts:
My nexus shifter needs replacing and I don't like the twisting type of shifters so I wanted to use a trigger one with my nexus hub.

Can I use the Alfine SL-S503 with a nexus 8 internal hub?

I think I also need to replace my brake lever so I can install the shifter, what type of lever do I need for the Alfine SL-S503?


texts: Bike derailleur, keeps flicking back when I pedal

texts:
I have changed the derailleur on my daughters back, bought like for like.

Now fitted.

When I try to pedal the derailleur, it flicks backwards and the bike won’t pedal forward, it remains stuck.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Can I install a disc-brake pannier rack on a bike with V-brakes?

texts: I have a MTB with V-brakes. 14-15 years old. I want to get a pannier rack. Will a rack suitable for a bike with disc brakes (eg Topeak Super Tourist DX) fit a bike without disc brakes? I’m not sure if I’m going to buy a new bike in the next year which would have disc brakes, so am trying to avoid buying a second rack at a later date.


texts: What are the differences between "clincher" and "tubular" tires?  I'm just a casual road cyclist at this point and don't put any more than 200 miles in over the course of the week.  I'm looking to upgrade to some better, lighter wheels, but want to make sure I go with the correct type.  I'm looking for something that will be easy to fix on the road and doesn't add a lot of complication when problems spring up.


texts: Is it harmful to store a bike in a repair stand when held by the seatpost?

texts: I am currently storing my bike in a repair stand where it hangs by the seatpost. I was wondering if this might not be ideal and that the prolonged hanging might put too much stress on the bike and that I should instead store it standing on the floor. Does this way of storing the bike pose any chance of damaging the bike compared to storing it standing?


texts: Is rubber cement in stationery stores the same as in tire patch kits?

texts:
Is the rubber cement that you can buy at the stationery shop:

the same as what's in the little tubes of cement that come with your patch kit:

If not, then exactly what is different? What makes tire patches stick much more strongly?


texts:
I have Shimano Inter M Roller Brakes on my bike. I felt the rear brakes were a bit light after riding 800 or so KM (total mileage on my bike so far) so I thought maybe theres a bit of cable stretch involved too but after I adjusted them, it feels the wheel is rubbing the brake and it has significant drag even when I walk the bike.

Are there any instructional links that help me to adjust roller brakes on the web or if anyone has experience with a set of instructions? I had followed a youtube video specifically for dutch bikes but only uses the barrell adjuster..I only utilized the adjustment barrell at the back but now I have tested it by loosening and tightening but it hasnt resolved the situation.

Thank You.


texts:
Several drive side spokes on a mountain bike rear were damaged the rear mech being pushed into the wheel by a rock, with one snapping completely. I've replaced the affected spokes and have managed to get the wheel (almost) perfectly true laterally.

However, I've noticed that the wheel is out of true radially -- i.e. it has high or low points of 2-3mm in a couple of places. I don't know if this was present before I replaced the spokes or not, but I'd like to improve this before putting the wheel back on the bike.

I think I need to tighten (or loosen) spokes equally on both sides at the high (or low) points to resolve this. But doing so seems to have little or no effect when making the kind of 1/4 or 1/2 turn adjustments I used to true the wheel laterally.

Am I going about this in the wrong way? Or do I need to make much bigger changes to spoke tension to affect the radial profile of the rim?


texts:
I was thinking about picking up a new helmet this afternoon.  My current helmet:

Has had a few accidents
Isn't very warm in the winter.
Doesn't have great clearance for ski goggles.

I was thinking about picking up a bern helmet I was toing to get either the:

Bern Brentwood Cycling Helmet
Bern Watts Cycling Helmet

Both helmets are:

"All Season" which means they support putting warm weather inserts into the helmet and have a slot to put a ski goggle attachement on the back.  See: http://www.bernunlimited.com/Innovation/All+Season
Both helmets meet: ASTM F 2040, CPSC and EN 1078 safty requirements.

I have a couple questions:

Anyone have experience with these helmets?  How did you like it?
Was it warm enough to wear in -10C weather?
Any other feedback welcome.
Any preferences between them?

(Note the helmets linked do not include the winter insert.  I still need to figure out where I can get one of those.)


texts: What's the best way for a beginner cyclist to carry children?

texts:
My sister has two children, aged 4 and 2. The 4 year old is starting to get confident on his bike and my sister is finding she can't keep up with him on foot any more. She hasn't ridden since she was a kid and so isn't very confident on a bike. She will only be riding on sealed bike trails (not on road) for the foreseeable future.

I'm not convinced any of the "on bike seat" style of child carriers will work very well for her, because of the reduction in stability and her lack of practice/confidence.

I suggested a trailer but she was wary of the extra weight and the effort required going up hills. I still think this is the best option though.

The other alternatives, the bigger trikes with seating built in are possibly a bit too expensive.

So my question is what's the best compromise of safety, cost, stability, weight and convenience for transporting kids?


texts:
The bike I am riding is an older mountain bike that is a cheaper model, likely from Walmart or somewhere similar. I picked it up at the flea market and have been doing repairs on it as a way to learn more about how bicycles work.
I was in the middle of a ride when all of a sudden I lost the ability to use the pedals to ride the bike. The pedals still turn, but they do not seem to be able to turn the wheel. There is some resistance to pedaling, but I think something might have happened in the bottom bracket or in the connection between the pedal arm and the bracket. I took the bike home and flipped it over and am able to pedal it fine. I think the issue only comes up when weight is being put on the back wheel.
Any insights on how to get the bike working normally would be greatly appreciated!
Here are two videos showing the problem:

Vertical view down from the riders perspective: https://streamable.com/k1ldza

View from the side: https://streamable.com/hkhp93


texts: Oil or grease leaking, I think, from hub

texts:
Black oil or grease is leaking from my brand new src3 hub. Is this normal? I thought internal geared hubs like this are supposed to be sealed.

This the bottom of the hub with the bike upside down. I wiped away a bit of the oil because it looked like it was about to drip.


texts: Where can I find a replacement part for a seatpost collar?

texts:
I have a foldable bike and I need to constantly adjust the height of my bike seat, the problem is that one of the pieces of the seatpost collar is totally worn out and needs replacement.

The part that I need is depicted in this image:
http://imgur.com/NZ97PME

Ideally I wouldn't want to spend too much money on this. Does anyone have a creative solution to this?


texts: Can I use hot water to unjam my Shimano trigger shifters? Has anyone had any experience with this?


texts: Do helmets really lose their quality with time even if kept in package?

texts: A friend of mine, who works as a sales manager in a good bike shop advised me to never buy a helmet that is older than couple of years, and the best thing to do is to buy the current model line, when they arrive to LBS (like fresh bread). Neither he earns from my purchases at his shop, nor he insisted to buy there, and even recommended me a few models that they don't have, so there is no marketing bias in this advise. So the question is, whether a helmet really looses its quality even if it's stored in a bike shop?


texts: Am I better off buying a new bike, or upgrading my old bike?

texts:
Half a year ago I started to use again my old Schwinn Woodlands MTB for commuting. I didn't want to spend a fortune on a new bike, I wasn't certain that I would like to bike commute daily.

Bike has kinda old equipment: screaming Shimano cantilever brakes and Shimano SIS derailleurs (48-38-28, 14-28). Steel wheels. Highest gear is too slow for me. However, the good old heavy CrMo frame is comfortable.

Since then I used the bike a lot mainly for commuting, touring. Now I'm at a crossroads. I'm thinking of buying a new bike (brand new or used) or re-equipping the old bike.  I would like better brakes and a bigger gear ratio on a workhorse.

If I buy a new bike, I would probably choose a new or used Merida Crossway 100D /Speeder/S-presso. I think a trekking bike would be better than MTB because of speed. I've tried a Crossway but at first it was strange, although I loved the big gear ratio and disc brakes.

If I would reequip my bike, I would use Shimano Alivio V brakes (maybe with red/blue Ritchey brake pads), derailleurs and shifters and 7-8 level sprockets. I also need to change wheels.

My dilemma is that is it worth to spend half price of a used bike to my old bike?  to reequip? Or is it better to sell it and buy another (new) bike. There are used bikes with quite acceptable prices.

2012 models are on sale nowadays, although I'm a bit skeptic that I really need a brand new bike.

What do you think?


texts:
I was riding recently and kept hearing a noise similar to a rock stuck in a tread, but I have no tread.   When I got off and inspected the tire, I found these weird bubbles had formed.   I have replaced the tire (the bubble doesn't telegraph through to the inner wall), and the tube appeared just fine.   I can't figure out what caused this though.  I'd really like to know, so if it's something I'm doing, I can keep from doing that.

It was my rear tire, and the tire only has about 1200 miles on it.


texts: Is it considered safe-enough to only have a front-brake on a fixie in a urban area that has many hills?  I've been considering buying one, but I want to get some opinions before I move forward.


texts: How to route shifter cables along frame to a Rohloff external gear mech?

texts: I am currently converting my Rohloff's gear mech from the internal to external version, and I’d like to route the shifter cables along the downtube and chainstay. However, I’m not sure how to route the cables from the shifter on the right side of the handlebars to the gear mech on the left side of the rear wheel. What attachments might I need for this beyond any brazes on my Surly LHT (non-disc) frame? Does anyone have a few high-definition photos they could share of their working and time-tested setup?


texts: Using Loctite for integrated head set and bottom bracket installation

texts:
I'm in the process of building up a new bike from scratch. Since the last time I have done this many things have changed, reading varios forums and watching numberless videos on YouTube have not helped.

I have a carbon frame with a carbon fork without a crown race. The crown race is laminated into the fork. The bottom bracket is a press fit one.

Now what is the best way to install the integrated head set and bottom bracket.
Some suggest to dry fit the bottom bracket, other grease it, yet other use Loctite.

Various forums suggested Loctite 641 or it's stronger form 609. There seem to be various opinions if one should use the Loctite activator 7471 or not. Also some say you must clean the frame with a special Loctite cleaner before applying.

I have settled to use only Loctite 641 without the cleaner and activator, as I see no benefit in using both. The contact points can be cleaned with alcohol or similar. The activator will only speed up the process from 30min down, I'm in no rush here.

But will the Loctite cure without the activator, and is this the best/correct way to do this. Obviously I want to be able to remove and replace this parts if they wear down.


texts: Can a tire that blew off a rim be safely used on another rim, and under what criteria?

texts:
I have a set of tires where one of them blew off the rim on my bike after I slightly over-inflated it.

I originally asked a question about this here, and there are more details at that link. The tire did not appear to sustain major damage from the blow off, just some mild scuffing where the bead popped out over the rim. When I took both tires off after this, I did notice they're quite loose on my specific rims (easy to remove with hands, no levers required), so that's probably why it happened.

I was thinking of posting these online for free, with an explanation of what happened, and ask that whoever takes them just state clearly to me that the know the implications of a tire blow off, they know enough about bikes and tires to determine if the tires will be safe on their bike, and will take responsibility for any subsequent injury or bike damage if the same thing happens to their bike.

The tires seem to be in good shape and I think someone who knows bike can determine if it's safe to use them on their bike. I just don't want some noob throwing them on their bike and having the same thing happen while riding, leading to injury, etc.

So I have a several part question:

Can a tire that blew off one rim be safely used on another rim? If so, are there any special stipulations?

 2. Is it OK to give those tires to someone else, assuming I provide a detailed explanation of the blow off issue I had, and ask them to stipulate that they understand the dangers and know how to determine if the tires are a good fit for their particular rims? Or, should I just throw them in the garbage? Feel free to provide your personal opinion on this one, I don't think it has a concrete answer.

 3. Assuming I'm clear about the issues as outlined above, are there any legal implications (i.e. liability for me) if someone else has a blow off and injures themselves with tires I provided "as is"? I'm located in Canada.

Thanks.


texts: Do headset and frame metals need to match, or will a steel/aluminum headset get stuck on an aluminum/steel frame?

texts:
Will a steel headset get stuck on an aluminum frame bike?

Will an aluminum alloy headset get stuck on a steel frame bike?

I am not asking about carbon frames, by the way.

I ask because I have seen some questions about aluminum alloy seatposts getting stuck in steel frames, and I wonder if the same kind of "galvanic pair" issue would cause a steel / "chromed steel" threaded headset to get stuck into an aluminum frame.

Would doing this make the headset impossible to replace?  Does it even matter if it is impossible to replace if the bike is not extraordinarily fancy?

I'm not worried about the  short term, but am wondering about best practices when assembling old bikes from scrap parts.


texts: Do rubber bike pedals or rubber pedal covers exist?

texts:
I'm in a position where bringing my bike into the apartment is my best option at the moment.  However, it is possible for metal edges of the bike pedals to catch the wooden edges of doorways.

To prevent damage, I'm looking for some sort of rubber bumper to put on the bike pedals, or else find bike pedals with rubberised outer surfaces to avoid damaging things they bump into.

Has anyone found such pedals or bumpers?


texts: Is Sram PG850 cassette a substitute for Shimano TZ31 freewheel?

texts:
I need your advice.

I have a Giant Escape 2014 UK model bike and it's time to change the chain and the original cassette/freewheel, which are worn out.

My question is, if I get this Sram PG850 8-speed cassette, will it fit nicely instead of the original Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney 7-speed freewheel?
They say Sram cassettes are Shimano compatible but I just want to be sure, I'm rather a newbie to cycling.

Will it combine well with the bike's current Shimano Tourney TX55 6/7 speed rear derailleur and Shimano EZ FIRE 40 21 speed shifters? (I don't mind having only 7 speeds on the new cassette).

Thanks for helping!


texts:
How does one measure the quality of the suspension of a bike? In other words, what feedback would I be looking for when riding the bike? Is it more than just happy thoughts after landing a few drops off some ledges? The answer is undoubtedly "it depends", but some elaboration on that for some different scenarios would be nice.

After doing dupe due diligence, the closest thing to a duplicate question was this: How to test-ride a full-suspension bike? and at the top the question was about how to know if a frame fits. I could have missed a dupe. If so, I'm sure I'll hear about it forthwith.


texts: How do I keep my seat from tilting back?

texts:
When I first got this bike, I got the saddle adjusted almost perfectly.  Recently it slipped back (so that the nose sticks up).  I loosened the bolt under the saddle, tilted the saddle back into the proper position, tightened the bolt up, and within a week the nose had tilted back up. Did the same thing again, but cranked the bolt even tighter; still happened.

I noticed that there's visible "scarring" or scraping on the top of the seat tube where the clamp that holds the saddle (not sure the proper term for those pieces) grabs onto the tube.

This is a 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker (touring style bike; equipped like a commuter) with the stock seatpost (pretty sure it's 27.2mm.  No real branding on the seat post).  I'm a fairly heavy rider (near 250 pounds) and I do sometimes ride over some pretty rough stuff, so I suspect that might be part of the problem.

So far I'm seeing maybe 3 options:

Get a hex tool with more leverage and tighten that thing down even more
Some sort of super glue or epoxy (or maybe just a bit of old innertube?) to keep the seatpost from sliding back
Replace the seatpost (and clamp assembly, of course).  Except I don't know what to replace it with that wouldn't just get the same problem again...

Update: Pics: (sorry, phone pics, but I think they're workable)

First: overall picture, very careful to take the picture close to level.  Top tube has just a teensy amount of slant, almost level.

Closer in (you can see some of the scarring on the seatpost):

Attempt at closer-in picture of scarring after disassembly, but can't focus close with this camera:

Here's the saddle itself, which has no bending, no visible damage to the rails, etc.:

Here's the actual pieces of the "clamp".  On the right is the bottom piece that sits on top of the seatpost and under the seat rails, there's matching "scarring" at the points that touch the seatpost. On the left is the top piece that goes on top of the rails. On top is the bolt that goes through everything from the bottom (with a curved sort of washer thing that fits into a matching curved area on the seatpost).  The opposite side of the "bottom piece" basically looks just like the visible side of the "top piece", and the opposite side of the "top piece" is boring.

Update 2: Used a hex tool with a longer arm (more leverage), removed the bolt, greased it up and tightened it as much as possible, not worrying about damaging the already damaged seatpost further. The grease helps to allow a bit more tightening. This held up for a couple months but eventually seat started sliding back again.

Final solution: Thomson Elite seatpost, specifically the shorter model with a setback in silver ordered through my LBS. (they had black in stock but decided I was willing to wait an extra week to get silver) It's a two-bolt design that seems to be the top-end for seatposts that don't slip.  I considered a Salsa two-bolt seatpost that was a less expensive, but it didn't seem to be as heavy-duty.  I also considered a Nitto S-83 which is a two-bolt seatpost about the same price as the Thomson and has more of the classic touring look to it, but the Thomson seemed to be a bit better engineered and I like the markings on the Thomson that help you keep the same adjustment.


texts: How do you remove the sprocket from an eighthinch splined BMX style crankset?

texts:
I have the EighthInch Freestyle Splined Crankset. These are very similar to profile bmx cranksets.

I purchased a larger sprocket to use with the crankset. I've used a crank puller to remove the drive side crankarm, but couldn't figure out how to remove the sprocket. It won't just slide off the axle. It fits on the crankset with very small splines. What should I do to remove the sprocket (aka chainring)?


texts: Can I attach a rear cargo rack directly to the seat clamp?

texts:
I'd like to install a rear cargo rack on a bike that doesn't have eyelets for the top attachment. Would it be a bad idea to attach the rear rack stays to this seat clamp that's welded onto the frame, so that they're held on with the same bolt as the seatpost?

Alternatively, I could remove the seat clamp with a dremel and replace it with a seat clamp that has rear rack attachment points included, like this one:

What do you think?


texts: Safely Switch Bicycles before a Century?

texts:
I did an unsupported century last year on my 30 pound "shop" mountain bike.  The first 55 miles were easy but the last 45 or so were pretty horrible.

This year, I want to try it again but with more hills. I really don't want to lug my 30 pound mountain bike up the hills, but I don't have the money for a decent road bike.

If I follow a reasonable training plan on my 30 pound mountain bike this year, will I be "safe" moving into high-dollar 15 pound rental road bike 24 hours before an unsupported century?

WARNING: This question was edited from its original version. It originally used the term "homemade" century to denote an unsupported century.  Also, the question originally asked if it would be okay to switch to a road bike the day of the mentioned century.  Now, the question asks if it is safe to switch 24 hours before the mentioned century.


texts: Is there any reason for the rear frame and bottom bracket to be asymmetric?

texts:
I just received a new non-brand carbon frame and immediately noticed that the bottom bracket looks to stick out significantly more to one side than the other, and the rear bottom forks also seem to be have slightly different dimensions - both somewhat asymmetric along the center line of the frame.

Is there any reason for a frame to be designed like this? Does it have something to do with it being a disc brake compatible frame? Or is this more likely a manufacturing / design problem?

Here are some images:

Thanks! I really appreciate any help + advice.


texts:
I have a SR Suntour Rux S 130 mm fork and I don't know what pressure should I put into the left valve.

For some reason I think this fork should have only 0 - 15 PSI pressure, but I don't know what source I have this from. Where can I go to learn the correct pressure for my fork?

UPDATE as per the current answer:

In the owner's manual linked in the current answer two facts are stated. First is the pressure sheet which seems to regard any fork listed in the manual (my fork included):

Second is the table with forks specifically, which takes things to a dramatic change:

Am I to understand that normally, as per the first chart, the pressure should be around 110 PSI, but for my fork, it should be 15 PSI?


texts: What is a good way to mount / secure a regular backpack, while commuting?

texts:
This is a purely commuting issue.

I have an around 3km route to the office, and a regular backpack (laptop, accessories, notebooks, ...) which is not a problem to carry around during autumn and winter months, but in the summer the back of my shirt quickly becomes sweaty from carrying it, and carrying it only on one shoulder isn't so good stability wise, while on the road.

I'm looking for advice, what would be a good way to mount it to a bike, or securing it in some way so it lasts throughout the trip, so I don't have to carry it on me.

I've tried securing it to my rear rack with "bungee ropes" (those elastic ropes), but it tends to slip to the side during the ride, and I'm afraid it might fall down.

Bike: Author Reflex SX trekking, with rear rack installed.

Edit (Clarification of what I'm looking for): Solutions for carrying regular rucksacks, like baskets that can be secured to rear rack, or side baskets (I've yet to see examples of those), or some solutions that would enable securing a backpack directly to a rear rack, but in a way that enables me to quickly clamp/unclamp it. I'm also not interested in buying specialized bike backpacks/panniers, but wish to carry my current one.


texts:
I'm looking to purchase this bike, I'd like to know if it has lockout suspension but I can't seem to find it on the SPECS section.

Is there something that I'm missing?


texts: Purpose of this screw on my mountain bike's (BCA 29SC) rear dropout/derailleur and how to fix?

texts:
so recently I have been having problems with my bike: the wheels tended to slip out of the dropout and rub against the frame of the bike. However, I had found a way to fix (reorient) the wheel everytime it did so. Atleast I thought I did. I would loosen this screw and the bolt next to it (to be able to reorient the wheel) and then fix the orientation. However, this problem kept persisting every time I rode. Once when I was reorienting, I unscrewed the screw a little too much causing what it was holding (a metal washer like thing that I assume helped the wheel stay in place) on the other side of the dropout to come loose and fall out. The screw that I had the accident with is below marked by the red rectangle
How do I fix this?


texts:
I remember in the early 1990s contemplating getting a suspension stem for my 1989 non-suspended Rockhopper MTB.

I'm surprised that suspension stems appear to have essentially disappeared. Why? They seemed a cheap and easy solution to give a bike front suspension. They could also be made lighter than suspension forks. What were the negatives?


texts: Chain Slip at front changing from large to small front chain wheel (with large cog at back)

texts:
I have a Pinnacle Neon 3 Hybrid, Shimano Sora 9 speed cassette and 2 chainrings at the front.

The bike is 2 weeks old and I've cycled around 65 miles so far.

Chain ring has come off 3 times at the front
1st time was when on the big ring at front and I selected wrong direction on the chainwheel (ie moved it outward instead of inward to smaller chainring - think I was on smallest cog at back), so I put it down to possible user error.

Today, the chain came off inwards twice at the front when moving from the large front chain ring to the small one whilst in the large cog at the back.The chain went past the small chainring. I have read it isn't ideal to be changing like this but should it really be coming off like that?

My previous bike, also a Pinnacle Hybrid, had 3 chainrings and I never had 1 chain slip in 6 years.

I'll probably take it in to be checked but wondered if there's anything I can do to adjust and make it less likely before the 1st free service is due in a month.

There is chain rub when on the largest cog and smallest chainring. Is it worth adjusting the H screw on the front derailleur to prevent the chain flying off when moving inwards as above from large to small chainring, or is it more likely due to the fact I was going from large chainring to small chainring ("extreme gear") when in the smallest cog?

Thanks

Martin


texts: which suspension seatpost for a granny who wants a comfortable ride while cruising the neighborhood

texts:
It is so hard to find info for the granny who just wants some general info for a comfortable ride.  I don't need a professional mountainbike seatpost and not worried about if it is carbon or not, don't understand the difference between long or short travel, not concerned about weight of the seatpost or competion.

But I am a tall granny with a hard tail commuter/crusier ebike and the bumps hurt my back.  I don't want to spend several hundred dollars if 50.00 will do.

Does anyone have suggestions.  I weigh about 155 and tall.
Nancy


texts: I just bought a used Cetma front rack and I'm looking for these types of "clamps". I need the right diameter for BMX handlebars so 22.2mm I believe in diameter (7/8 inch). Does anyone know what they are called so I can't search for them online or ask for them in a hardware store? I kind of assume these are some kind of standard off the shelf parts I can get and not custom made by the guy who makes Cetma racks.


texts: What is the measurement in inches of a XL frame?

texts: What is the conversion of a (XL) frame to it's measurement in inches?


texts: Upgrading cycle from single to multi-speed

texts:
I own a  single speed MTB . I'm planning to upgrade it to multi speed. As I'm on a tight budget, should I just upgrade my rear to multi speed or upgrade both front and rear. Is it a good idea to upgrade just the rear to multi speed?
Edit: My front gear set is a single 38 T one. I'm adding the pictures of current front and rear gear set for more clarity.


texts:
I'm building my first fixed gear bike and I'm nearly finished, I just have to tighten up my crank bolt and wrap my handle bars. The thing is, the crank arm seems to wobble a lot and idk what to do. I've already tried tightening it some more, but I don't think that'll help.

Bottom bracket shell: 68mm

Bottom bracket: SRAM GXP's

Crankset: SRAM Omniums

video showing wobble:

https://imgur.com/f26nppn


texts: measuring a spoke that's already in a wheel

texts:
i have a wheel, and i want a spare spoke to take touring. (it's a front wheel with a disc rotor, i have one for the rotor side but have lost the one i had for the non rotor side)

is it possible accurately measure the spoke when it's in the wheel? i've attempted to use some strings but i'm not clear on where you'd measure to. i understand that you start at the centre of the j bend, but presumably some of the nipple/spoke is inside the rim. perhaps i should remove the tyre and rim tape, and measure the amount of spoke protruding l.

is there a reliable technique i can use for this?

edit: i'd like to avoid removing a spoke out if at all possible. the rim was built by a professional wheel builder, it's running true and i have only minimal wheel trying skills


texts: How difficult is it to install internal seatpost drop cable housing in 2018 Specialized Epic Comp?

texts:
My 2018 Specialized Epic Comp (Aluminum) has a 24 mm threaded bottom bracket.  If I remove the bottom bracket will I be able to route the cable housing down the down tube (there is an opening in the frame for a cable housing), around the top of the cavity where the bottom bracket was and up the seat tube?

Or will there be some sort of tube or housing where the BB was that will still prevent me from routing the cable housing up the seat tube?


texts:
I got a folding bike 2 months ago and got my first hiccup. It has a 3-speed hub gear and while changing gears today, it seems like the chain slipped off the smaller chainring near the back wheel into the gap with the wheel. As the chain is quite tight, my basic knowledge or Youtube info on how put chains back on in dérailleur bikes is useless.

How do you actually slide it back on? Is there a simple technique? I tried simply pedalling but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

If this matters, it's an S-RAM iMotion hub gear.


texts: Bike Hydraulic Brakes constantly pressing against the rotor

texts:
I hope you can help me with this issue. My bike has Avid juicy 7 brakes, and lately both the front and the rear brakes are pressing against the rotor, which makes it really hard to ride it (feels like putting more resistance on a stationary bike). In the past before it got to this point the brakes randomly would be looser and then later more firm.
Is it a bleeding issue or do you think that it's something else?

I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks in advance!


texts:
Changing to an adjustable Ritchey stem on my Trek 7.3. My bars are 25.4 and the stem I'm looking at is stated to be for 25.8-26. With this being half a millimetre bigger, will it still fit ok?

Many thanks!


texts: Which side should I pass other cyclists on a UK cycle path?

texts:
I'm new to using cycle paths and seem to get dirty looks for riding on the left.

When driving along my usual commute this morning I saw others riding on the right and therefore passing to the left of each other.

Surely it's the same as driving? I'm also sure that the give-way markings when crossing roads are on the left.

Edit
For clarity, I am using a single off-road cycle-path as opposed to a cycle-lane.


texts:
I've been working on my cadence for several months now, and I feel like I've gotten to the point where I'm more comfortable using high cadence instead of standing up when I want to accelerate hard.

At stoplights if I'm really gonna accelerate hard, I'll start in first gear and shift up when I get to 140-150 rpm.

I stay seated the whole time. I feel like I'm faster this way than I am standing up, but I'm not sure. Until recently, I've always assumed that standing up in a higher gear was the best way to put on speed fast.

Can someone provide data or logic that points one way or the other?


texts: Head bearing lock nut thread on a vintage english bicycle

texts:
I want to replace the bent forks on my 1950s Humber bicycle (made by raleigh)with another thats too long between the head bearing and the fork crown and will be need to be cut and rethreaded.My question is what size dye  will I need to put back the thread on the shortened 25mm tube ?
The origonal forks are obsolete so buying new is not an option.


texts: Can I use a SRAM Powerlink on a Shimano chain

texts:
Have 9 speed Shimano chain that I need to shorten.

I don't have the Shimano pin so I need to go buy one.
Could just reuse the regular pin but I already broke one chain tool trying that.

I think the SRAM Powerlink would be more convenient.

Is it safe to use the SRAM Powerlink on a Shimano chain?
Or is there some other reusable connector (master link) for a Shimano chain?


texts:
OK, folks, since today is April 1st and April 1st is pretty much the start of the cycling season here in Tropical Southern Minnesota, I figure it's the ideal day to ask this question:

What is the best E-reader to use on a touring bike?  What will mount well on a drop bar, withstand the vibration, and not jiggle so much that you can't read it?

Oh, and it would be nice if it had some sort of bracket to hold it upright, so you don't have bend your head down to read it.

(I realize that "specific product recommendations" are off-topic on Bicycles SE, but what attributes should I look for?  Humor me!!)

Just to be clear

For hysterical reasons it should be noted that this question was first posted on April Fools Day.  I'm not enough of an idiot to use such a reader on my bike, no matter what my wife may say.  (Using one in my car, however, is a different matter.)


texts: Will it be a problem to bike uphill with a rear pannier with books (~2lbs)

texts:
I've been biking to work ~11 mi and my back hurts from carrying books. I was thinking of buying a pannier and putting my books in it. But I'm not sure if it'll be harder to bike, as I live in San Diego, so there are a few hilly/uphill parts (not like SF though!).

Does anyone have experience biking uphill with full panniers?


texts: Why almost every custom framebuilder builds steel bikes, but not many work with aluminum?

texts: I know it's easier and cheaper to work with steel, but is it THAT MUCH easier and cheaper?


texts:
I rode about 5000Km on Mavic Ksyrium Elite Wheels and changed them for inexpensive Prime race wheels.

The difference in ride comfort is huge. The Mavic wheels provide a very harsh ride. The prime wheels are very smooth.

I use the exact same tires (Continental GP4000S II) on both wheelsets at exactly the same tire pressure (90psi). Nothing else changed on the bike.

This left me wondering as to what exactly contributes to a comfortable wheel. The Prime rim is deeper than the Mavic rim. So it should be radially stiffer and provide less comfort instead of more comfort.

My own thought is that the biggest contribution in wheel comfort is provided by the type, and maybe the number of spokes. The Prime wheels use DT Swiss Competition spokes. The thin middle section of this spoke will move radially more under load than the robust Mavic spoke, thus absorbing more vibrations. This would imply that the same rim with a higher spoke count would be less comfortable.

Would this be a correct assumption? Can somebody shed some light on this?


texts:
My bike's frameset has IS mounts. The mounts are 9.6mm thick. I bought a pair of IS to post mount adapters but they don't come with bolts. The adapters are 11mm thick. How long should the bolts be?
The adapters I bought are not Shimano but I saw that Shimano adapters (SM-MA-F180P/S, SM-MA-R160P/S) come with bolts 18.7mm long. Now I'm not sure how thick their adapters are. Are the bolts supposed to thread past the adapter or just short of it? Shimano also has those snap rings; are those needed or just the bolts and washers?


texts: Freewheel not engaging when temperature below about -20c/-4f. What is freezing?

texts: Is it moisture/slush in the freewheel that is not evaporating because I have to keep the bike outside all winter?  Then it might freeze when the temperature goes low enough.  How long would it take to evaporate if inside at room temperature?


texts: I want to fix my puncture with super glue, can I use it ? I do not have any glue left in my puncture outfit so can I use ordinary super glue?


texts: Can I use an 1/8" chain on an old 8speed I'm converting to single speed?

texts:
I am in the process of converting an old road bike of mine into a single speed. I bought new crank arms, rear wheel (with a conversion kit), and a rear derailleur.
Do I need to use a 3/32" chain, or can I use a 1/8" chain that I see being used on all other fixies?
Edit below

the rear derailleur is because I have vertical dropouts on the bike, so this will be used as the chain tensioner

the new rear wheel with conversion kit is because the old wheel broke (this is part of the reason I'm converting it)

The new crank arms I bought have just one chain ring on them (similar to this)


texts: What are the best ways to start gravel biking for a complete novice (in the Bay Area)?

texts: I recently got a Cannondale Slate and because I’m a complete novice, I’m a little hesitant in starting to ride on trails alone. I’m mostly wondering if I’d have to perform many jumps (which I don’t know how to perform) on the trail. Any advice on trails or best practices would be highly appreciated.


texts:
I am undecided to upgrade the BB and crank or change a wheelset. Any advice on what might help me spend less effort pedaling?

I actually find a steel 26" MTB easier to pedal.


texts: Chain guide/tensioner for 2011 Giant Reign 2 (Press Fit)

texts:
Can someone recommend a chain guide/guard/tensioner that will be mountable to a 2011 Giant Reign 2 which has Shimano Press Fit and 3-ring crankset? The best I could find is:

Kore Chain Reactor - available at ebay.co.uk
Brand-X Chain Tensioner
Bionicon c.guide 2 - reported as not very durable (breaks)
Bionicon c.guide eco - hopefully more durable

I need something that ships to European Union (Czech Rep.). Thanks in advance!


texts: Right vs Left Crank Power Transfer Efficiency

texts:
The drive-side crank of a bicycle must be more efficient than the non-drive side, right?

Not only does the power not have to go through the BB, but the drive side is usually also attached to the chainring out closer to the end, especially on high-end cranks like this one:

Is there any data on the size of the difference in efficiency? I'm not looking for data on this specific crankset, anything general is fine.


texts: Is it possible to fit full coverage fenders on a road bicycle with V-brakes?

texts:
I would like to get a used road bike on a budget. However, I need to ideally fit full coverage fenders due to frequent rain.

Do I simply need to save up for a bicycle with disc brakes, or should I look for a particular type of fork, frame, gap between the wheel and fork, that would allow the fitment of full coverage fenders?

I'm trying to avoid making this an opinion based question -- surely this must be a well-known problem with an equally well-known solution? It seems like most road bicycles have V-brakes, hence many would experience this exact problem?


texts:
While riding yesterday I could shift into the big chainring, but to get back to the small chainring, I had to dismount and press on the chain with my hand (I'm not talented enough nor inclined to learn how to do this with my shoe while riding).  It's an eight year-old triathlon bike and there was plenty of slack in the cable when I tried to shift.

What could be wrong?


texts: i just bought and build a BLB classic frameset. size 53 and im using 700x28c wheelset. but after that, my toe clip touching the front wheelset especially when i want to turn right or left. please help me to solve this prob.


texts: What are my options for replacing/upgrading my MTB front mech?

texts:
I recently damaged my front mech, a Shimano Acera, top swing, bottom pull, triple chainring. The rear cassette is 8-speed. So I need to replace this front mech.

The original Shimano Acera is probably circa 2002 so I will likely not get a direct replacement, and in any case it was a bit cheap and nasty and I'd rather go with something a bit more "beefy". I'm thinking of something like Deore XT, but I can't find a model that says it is compatible with a 3x8 drive train.

The options are a bit bewildering. Can someone suggest a part?


texts: cable too short to reattach into a sturmey archer 3 speed shifter

texts:
I've just been given a Rayleigh Chiltern. The only problem is, the cable has unattached from the gear shifter. I Googled how to re thread, but the cable isn't long enough at the top end to slide right into the length of the shifter - it barely fits inside the shifter at all.

Can I use the excess cable at the hub end (if so how?) or am I just doing something wrong? Never done this before, so any advice would be massively welcome.


texts: Checked Grand Canyon frame sizes and can't decide which one is more suitable for me: S or M. My height is 170cm while S frame recommended height is 162-172cm and M is 172-182cm. S frame comes with 27.5" tyres but I want 29" which comes with M. What would you recommend?


texts:
I'm considering buying a TriRig Omega X braking system front & rear for a bike I intend to use in UCI events. I can't find the right document on their respective website, so I'm asking here hoping someone could elucidate whether or not the TriRig brakes are legal?

 from https://www.tririg.com/store.php?c=omega


texts: Difficulty installing new folding bead tires

texts:
I'm an amateur cyclist trying to change worn out tires for the first time. I ordered some new tires from Amazon and got them in folded form.

The tires are flat like a belt and just won't go on the wheel. I bend them from the edges but they go back to being a flat belt like shape. Is there some special procedure I need to do to get them in shape or are these faulty?


texts: how many spacers do I need for a 83mm bottom bracket and a 142x10 hub?

texts: I have a Zee crankset on a 83mm bottom bracket (downhill bike). The Shimano manual says to use two 2.5mm spacers on the drive side, and one 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive side. However, this presumes the rear hub has a 150mm spacing, typical for downhill bikes. My bike has a 142x10 hub, when I use the spacers as specified, the chainline is completely off, I can't even get the chain on the largest cog. Since I'm not using a 150mm hub I obviously need to change the spacers, but I have no idea how to figure out how many spacers of what size I need on each side?


texts: How do you switch the Raleigh RX10 rear light to flashing instead of constant

texts:
Sorry for the ludicrously specific question, but I just cannot work it out!

Mostly when I turn on my rear Raleigh RX10 USB rechargeable rear light it has a constant beam. Pressing the power button again toggles the intensity of the light. Pressing and holding the power button turns the light off (or back on). Occasionally it comes on flashing instead of constant, but I have no idea how. How can I reliably and predictably turn on flashing mode?


texts: Is it better to get a commuter bike with a front suspension or without one?

texts: Is a commuter/city bike without front suspension comfortable?


texts:
My son has a Boss Stealth mountain bike, The front derailleur has stopped working. It is a 3 cog Sunrun 42t (picture 1) which I am finding difficult to find.

The bike originally had Grip Shift changers and was changed to lever/brake combo about 6 weeks ago and worked fine so I don't think that has anything to do with the issue.

I have looked on Ebay and found so many different type I'm not sure which model I can replace it with. Picture 2 looks similar and has the correct teeth configuration. Picture 3 I'm not sure where the cable would attach.

Can anybody suggest a suitable replacement unit please


texts: I noticed that screws connecting the metal part of the pedal are loose (I don't know the proper name for the metal part). I would like to screw them in but there's a piece of plastic that is in the way. How should I go about this (I don't want to yank the plastic part off the pedal). Here the picture:


texts: Alternating two forks on a single bicycle — do I need two headsets?

texts:
I have a full rigid (fat) bicycle and I am playing with an idea to use a suspension fork sometimes. I want to keep the possibility to swap the old fork back when I do not need suspension but want to drop weight instead. The swapping process does not have to be super-swift but it should be doable without special tools (i.e., only with a set of Allen keys). Almost like a wheel change, only with more steps.

Now, a fork also carries certain hardware, besides the wheel. For example, I would either need two front disk brake calipers or move a single caliper between forks. Ditto for stem and top cap, mudguard, possibly fork's remote lockout or maybe something else. All of them can be moved with hexkeys.

The headset's lower race is what I am worried about. It sits on top of a fork's crown and can be (re)mounted only using special tools, sometimes impact tools. I assume moving the race between two forks would not be easy and most likely reduce its lifespan. What are the best practices in this situation?

Possible solutions that come to my mind.

Buy a second identical headset and use only its lower race on the new fork. The headset in my case is Cane Creek 10 series. However, one top race is wasted as unused.
Transition to some sort of an integrated headset which does not have a lower race. This means removing the old one (both the top and the bottom pieces) and installing the new one. However, after that changing to another fork should be as trivial as popping the old one from the steering and pushing the new one in. However, I am not sure if there are frame/headset compatibility requirements. In my case the frame is a cromoly one.


texts:
Is it possible to fit a SPD pedal and cleat setup on my SPD SL shoe (SH-R131-S)?

The answer to why, is to save the expenses for a new shoe.

But even if it's possible. Is it a good idea to mix them?


texts: How is this kind of cycling correctly called?

texts: Sometimes I like to make rather high-speed descents (during which I also make jumps) in the forest near to my house. I want to know how this kind of activity is correctly called. Is it downhill, freeride, etc.?


texts: What is causing strange resistance when pedalling forward?

texts:
I noticed today a strange resistance when cycling home.
I've done some investigating and by removing the chain have isolated the issue to the bottom bracket area.
When I move the pedals forward there is some resistance which lessons the faster I spin. If I spin slowly the resistance will come then go then come then go and so on. I would liken it to the brakes being applied then released then applied (but obviously this is not the cause as I have removed the chain)
When I reverse the direction (as if pedalling backwards) there is no resistance.
Any ideas on what is wrong? Is this something I should try and fix myself or take to be repaired?


texts:
There is a lot of advice out there to use chamois cream on long rides to prevent sores and chafing.  How are you supposed to apply it?

In particular I'm curious about the following:

Do you apply the pad or to your nethers?
Do you wipe it on with your hands or a cloth?  What about when you are touring and can't wash up easily after applying?
How much cream do you use?


texts: Protecting bikes from elements when traveling suspended on hitch bike rack

texts:
I'll be traveling this summer (1000km each way, with one stop in between) and would like to take our bikes (4) along with us.

I have a Thule Apex installed in a 1.25" hitch that will be host to 2 mountain bikes (29er, 27.5), 1 woman's hybrid and 1 kid's mountain bike (20"). I have storage at destination.

How do I limit the impacts of the elements (rain, road debris, etc) on our bikes, most particularly the disc brakes and drive train, when traveling?

Edit #1

Consider the encountered wind (ie. highway vs. storage) as reviews seem to indicate that certain products may not withstand various degrees of wind.
Using RV in the keywords also tends to help


texts:
I'm doing a 1x conversion with a Shimano SLX (M7000) groupset on an old road frame.

I just installed the rear derailleur and the pulley is too far away from the cassette. 18mm from the max cog (recommended is 4mm-5mm). However the B screw is all the way out and screwing it in only widens the gap. Not sure what's going in. Maybe the chain is too short?

Some photos of the setup: https://imgur.com/a/nCCgBWg

RD-M7000 GS Rear Derailleur Medium Cage
CS-M7000 Cassette: - 11 Speed 11-42T


texts: Why is the front brake always on the left?

texts: You often signal on a bike like you signal a car, with your left hand. This lets most people keep their good hand on the handle for steering. Some of my friends, though, signal with their right hand so they can quickly pull the front brake if they need to. Why aren't bikes made with the front brake on the right side, so you get both good steering and emergency braking?


texts:
I do not need the bicycle for daily commuting or mountain climbing.
I need the bicycle for morning and evening exercise and just for roaming around in order to get some fresh air.

I also want a smooth ride on non-smooth roads. I am a female.

What to look for in a bicycle meant for the above described needs?
Budget: 103$
Country: India

Update

I searched for and found the following bicycles with suspensions.
They fall near about $ 103.

http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-atom/Technical-Specifications
http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-rebellio-619/Technical-Specifications
http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hero/mtb/hero-ranger-dtb-vx-2013/Technical-Specifications

How do I know whether they are comfortable for exercise and roaming around?

Regarding exercise:
I am an underweight female so loosing weight is not my goal.
I wish to get mentally fit and therefore I wish to tire myself out without getting bored. They say physical exercise is necessary to get rid of depression.
Hence I chose to cycle out.

What to look for in a bicycle meant for the exercise?

  The most important thing is that it be the right size for you, and after that you appear to want a "relaxed", upright posture rather than a "racing" posture. For that an inexpensively-built "city bike" (such as Andy's illustration) or perhaps a "hybrid" is probably the best choice.

Are the bikes shown above hybrid?


texts: What is the relationship between block, gear speed and derailleur? With Pictures

texts:
I am buying a new bicycle. The seller tells me it is "14 speed with 8 speed block, but the derailleur won't reach the lowest gear, so I will switch to 7 speed block".

How many gears will the bicycle have, what problems can I expect from this setup?

I have some photos:

\


texts: Do I need to remove & service integrated headset bearings when replacing fork?

texts:
I'm replacing a suspension fork on a bike with 1 1/8" integrated. I'm following these steps

As the fork slides down, have an assistant hold the lower bearings, so they stay up inside the frame. Try to extract the bearing complex intact. Hopefully, the bearings will be in a bearing clip.
Once the fork is extracted, remove the top bearings as well.
Once the old fork is out of the steering tube, clean and lube the inside of the steering tube. Make sure the surfaces where the bearings sit aren't pitted
Using a degreasing solution, clean the bearings, cups, and clips. A good technique to get dirty gunk off free-rolling bearings is to roll then between layers of paper towel. The towel will pick up the gunk.

These instructions seem to apply to a Standard headset configuration, not an Integrated configuration. The bearings don't seem to come out, at least they certainly don't fall or drop out as the article cautions.
So, I've removed stem, spacers, headset cap but not the bearings.
The old fork slides right out and I can slip the new one right in, so far so good.
This other answer suggests that headset bearings rarely, if ever, really need to be serviced.
Questions

Do I need to (or rather, should I) attempt to remove the headset bearings (i.e., to attempt to clean them)?
If so, do I need a Park Tool RT-1 to do this? Or can I use a metal rod or a wood dowel and a hammer (with caution, of course).


texts: Correct spoke tension for DT Swiss EX 471 26" 32h rim paired with Wheelsmith DB 14 spokes

texts:
I am currently in the process of building a wheel, and I'm super confused on how to determine the correct spoke tension.

I bought the Park Tool TM-1 to correctly gauge the tension.

DT Swiss doesn't provide the recommended spoke tension for their rims; I triple checked the manual and couldn't find anything for a DT Swiss EX 471 26" 32h rim. This forum says I should shoot for 123kgf... but I don't know how reliable that is....

I'm also confused about my spokes. I went with the Wheelsmith DB 14 spokes (260mm); apparently these spokes get wider at both ends (2.0mm) and in the middle they are (1.7mm)...

When I go to the Park Tool Wheel Tension App, it asks me for the "thickness" of my spokes.

Two questions:

Should I enter 1.7mm or 2.0mm into "thickness" on the Park Tool Wheel Tension App
What should my tension be for the DT Swiss Ex 471 rim?


texts: Can I change my tyre size from a 20x2.20 to a 20x2.30 with out changing my rims

texts: I have a bmx with 20 x 2.20 tyres on it. Can I change them to a 20 x 2.30 and would I have to change my inner tubes as well.


texts: Pros and cons of single-sided forks (Cannondale Lefty)?

texts:
Looks like they save some weight, but how do they have a better strength/weight ratio than a traditional two legged fork?

With the single-legged fork the fork and axle must resist huge bending all the time, producing even more of a problem than with the 2-legged fork under uneven compression.

So how is this fork constructed and what advantages and disadvantages does this bring?


texts:
I am worrying about this type of protection against chain sucks. After 1-2 months with a new Cannondale F29 2, I've found out that this part was not where it should be. Instead, the chain did it's ugly job.

Talking to a mechanic, he guessed(!) that attaching metal to carbon might not always work, both materials have quite different properties, i.e. that loosing the protection should be a common problem. Is it?

Apart from myself, I've never heard of issues with lost chain suck protectors...

EDIT: Thank you for your comments, and sorry for not being able to reply earlier!

@Criggie / @Frisbee: The following image shows a Cannondale F29 with a chain stay protector attached left of and next to the largest chainring..

@User 3875425: No, AFAIK, by reducing the space between largest chain ring and the frame, they should actually (also) prevent chain sucks. Here, I am very open for correction! BTW: Currently, I am using a can tin wrapped around the frame thighly around the correspunding postion. Looks weird, is not 100% fixed all the time, but works.

@Frisbee: There is a legal case going on.

@ebrohman: The question is whether you have or have heard of problems with metall chain stay protection as weak design part on carbon frames. In order to do so, you should either have such expereience made yourself or you should be in a position, as bike dealer, club member, where you can notice such issues - or not.

---END EDIT


texts: Can I run a SRAM road rear derailleur with downtube shifters?

texts:
Can I run a SRAM road (apex/rival/force/red) rear derailleur with downtube shifters?

I though you might be able to mount the bar-end shifters on downtube, but it seems like they are a ratcheting type as opposed to the usual downtube shifter design.

I've also heard that shimano shifters will probably not pull enough cable in friction mode to accommodate the entire cassette.

Is there any way to do this properly?


texts: When basic maintenance for basic Suntour XCM/ XCC fork is needed?

texts:
When basic maintenance for very basic Suntour XCM/ XCC fork is needed?
Is it needed just in case if something wrong or once a year or after some amount of km?
By maintenance, I mean something like this:


texts: Explanation on the lineup of SRAM Derailleurs

texts: @thelawnet has given a very descriptive answer to my previous question which seeks an Explanation on the lineup of Shimano Derailleurs. I am pretty sure that there are people who confuse about the SRAM lineup too and I cannot find a similar question that addresses their complicated lineup. It would be really nice if someone could provide a proper explanation of their MTB and Road lineup. Thank you!


texts:
I want to see how can I make this 3-gear bike go easier on uphill. It has an internal gear hub. I don't know much about bikes but I'm thinking if I can merely replace the hub for one with 14 gears (Rohloff Speedhub) and also, not sure, but can I change the single chainring at the cranks (front) with another one that will have two chainrings so that I get a smaller one to make uphill even easier.

PICTURE: REAR gear

PICTURE: front gear


texts: When is a bike frame considered too tall?

texts:
I'm currently riding a road bike that feels too short for me. I use it to commute 17 miles per day.

I recently went to a bike shop, and they told me that your ideal frame height is to stand over the bike, lift up the frame, and have no more than a thumb width space below the tire. They also said the frame is measured from the pedal axle to the intersection of the seat post and the cross beam. They said a 57cm frame was probably the best fit for me.

I went home and measured my current bike and it was a few inches smaller. However, I have a few other bikes in my garage in need of repair, and I'm hoping to restore one if it's the right size for me. I measured one and found that it was an inch (~2cm) taller than my goal of a 57cm frame. I was able to stand over the bike with my feet flat on the ground (but the tires were flat).

I'm wondering if this is an acceptable height. How tall is too tall? What downsides are there when the bike becomes too tall versus too short?


texts: Is the Shimano FC 175 TY301 crankset still available. If not, how do I choose a good replacement without changing anything else?


texts: What child seats have a quick-release mechanism?

texts:
I'm looking to purchase a rear child seat for my almost-two-year-old.

The main feature I'm interested in is being able to very quickly and easily take it on and off.

This Yepp Maxi I saw in a store here in NYC fits the description but it is $210+ and that's more than I wanted to spend.  REI link for Yepp Maxi

What others are out there?


texts: Replace a 2.0" tyre with a 2.1" studded one?

texts:
I'm looking at replacing the tires on my GT Aggressor commuter bike with studded tires for the winter.

Based on the current tire sidewalls (the rims themselves don't actually have the width or diameter of the wheels on them), I'm looking at getting a 26x2.0" studded tire set.

Thing is, a local winter bike gear supplier carries one pair of 26x2.0" studded tires, and upwards of a dozen of (generally higher-quality, better-reviewed, knobbier) 26x2.1" tires. Would putting a 2.1"-wide tire on a (supposedly) 2.0"-wide rim be dangerous for the bike or the rider?


texts: How has biking changed in the past 15 years?

texts: I am going to try commuting to work via bike and am really excited about it. The problem is, I haven't really ridden a bike in the past 15 years, when I was in high school. I used to love biking but it just was never really possible to bike to work until now. What are some big ways in which cycling has changed in the past 15 years or so?


texts: How can I fit a tapered fork to a 1 1/8 semi-integrated/zero stack head tube?

texts:
I have a 2004 Giant VT frame with a zero stack / semi-integrated headset.  It currently takes a straight steerer threadless fork.

Is there any type of headset I can put on so I can fit a tapered fork?


texts: What exactly do seats with a cut out in the middle achieve?

texts:
I've read that seats with a cut out are a good way of relieving stress on your sensitive areas. So we have seats like this:

My question is: from what I've read, the problem with cycling with bad seats is that it puts pressure on your perineum. This is the part that carries the nerves to the penis and testes -- but the cut out, which is in the middle will in no way reduce pressure on the perineum, which start off perpendicularly from a line joining the sit bones. So if you sit on the widest part of the seat, the perineum won't lie on the cut-out. As in:

Our intention is to protect the perineum; so I'd wager that a cut out in the middle doesn't solve that problem at all.

[I understand that this particular example of a saddle does seem to have some sort of a depression where the perineum would lie -but it's still not perfect, and my question also concerns the use of the cut out in the middle.]


texts: Are heavily worn rims safe to use on trainer?

texts:
I've got a wheelset with heavily worn rims.  This was a cross wheelset used for riding in pretty sloppy conditions all the time.  This was a rim brake based wheelset and used with cantilever brakes.  Now the braking surface is rather concave. It's worn enough that I feel like riding on the road would be unsafe due to risk of failure.

I was considering just using the wheels on my trainer, where I would no longer need to do much in terms of braking (and won't actually be going anywhere).  Do you think this is safe, or should I just go out and buy a cheap / heavy wheelset for indoor training?


texts: Road bike handle bar adjustment to one weaker and shorter arm

texts: I have Erbs Palsy causing my left arm to be shorter and weaker than my right arm. Can the handle bars of a road bike be adjusted to accommodate this or is there another resolution I can consider?


texts:
I have antique hub where i put new spokes and spoke j-bend appears to be too long (This picture spokes are only hand tightened)?
Original spokes j-bend was shorter compared to new.


texts: Looking for Techniques for Riding Uphill on a Single Speed

texts:
I commute on a Single Speed (SS) bike about 13mi round trip. Going home is not a problem as the gradients are low and I can climb them. However, going in to work the gradients are much steeper and I have a hard time climbing them. I usually need to stop and walk a bit. I am looking for any pointers on climbing hills on an SS. Thanks

Edit: I am not really looking for ways to avoid hurting myself, I am young and fit so that isn't my biggest concern. I am more concerned with making my pedaling technique more efficient, especially for hill climbs. Another point I should mention is that I am using clipless pedals to increase my power output.

Verdict: I added this because I can only choose one best answer. I think that @GuyZee best addressed my question about technique, but @Steven offered a great deal of help with regards to getting a better mechanical advantage. Thanks to both of you for providing great answers.


texts: Upgrading cassette - what do I need to be aware of?

texts:
I'm looking to replace my rear cassette and reduce the tooth count between the sprockets in order to make my gear changes less dramatic.

I currently have a 11/26 9 speed SRAM cassette, and a stock shimano tiagra derailleur (whatever the 2011 trek 1.5 comes with). My chainring is a compact 50/34 110mm.

When I'm cruising along I often find that the jump between gears on the cassette is pretty substantial and it feels as though I could do with a missing gear to get the best efficiency with a cadence above 90.

I have my eye on a 12/23 cassette: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-hg50-9-speed-cassette/ (Shimano HG50). This is a fairly cheap cassette so it's not the end of the world if it doesn't work out, but what I'd like to know is if I can just replace the existing cassette with this one without having to buy a new chain/derailleur etc. Or, if I do need to buy some new stuff - what would that be? New jockey wheels?

I have all the tools to replace the cassette so that's not a problem. My concern is all the talk of 'hyperglide chains' etc.


texts: I bought a used frame without a derailer.  What type will I be able to use?  I would like to switch to trigger shifters and a good quality derailer.  See photos.enter image description here


texts: Rohloff gear can only shift between 3 and 4, even when gear disconnected from hub

texts:
My Rohloff gearhub will only shift between gears 3 and 4 (I think; display long ceased to be readable, but it's two low gears).  I tried adjusting the shifter cable tension but it makes no difference.  When I disconnect the gearbox from the hub it still doesn't shift.

The owner's manual troubleshooting section has an item "twist shifter does not turn freely", but beyond 3 and 4, my twist shifter does not turn at all, not even under considerable force.  When I do shift (heavily) between 3 and 4, I do see a slight movement in the cables.  I am not able to manually pull the cables out of the gearbox.

Until yesterday, shifting worked through all gears albeit somewhat heavily.  I took the bicycle on a train, where I strapped it.  After I got off the train, the problem appeared.

What might cause this?


texts:
On my bike I found that when I backpedal, if the chain isnt perfectly straight, it is prone to shift to a more central gear. E.g would be if on the small chainring and the largest cog, backpedaling even a turn or two seems to result in a shift to the 2nd or 3rd cog. I came across a similar question which settled with the answer that it is due to the chainline, which I agree is not perfectly straight, but neither is it so bad that it is considered "cross chaining" and it works quite well in the forward direction.

Beyond just chainline, is it also an indicator of other issues? Chain wear? Cassette wear (I notice that some teeth are angled forward/away from the bike, and such teeth end up causing the shift)?

This is a second hand bike which is 5-10 years old. Running Tiagra 9 speed.


texts: How does lubricating your chain help protect your cassette and chainrings from wearing too?

texts:
I just got my mountain bike back from the shop after a frame warranty, and they replaced my chain as it was apparently worn (2x11). They recommended changing the cassette and chainrings while I was at it, but I wanted to inspect those myself before making those relatively expensive changes.
That got me to think: how does lubricating the chain stop the cassette and chainrings from wearing? You’re not supposed to cover the cassette nor chainrings in lube, so what is preventing them from wearing?
In my case, I noticed that some of my favorite cogs had their contact faces deformed. There was a slight burr where the chain contacts the cog. On the other hand, the big chainring (my favorite) showed significant wear. I’m not surprised by this, considering the occurrence of chainring strikes and shifts under big power, but in some spots I’m pretty sure there’s shavings of metal missing. This corroborates to the fact that I now experience chain slippage every so often when using the new chain. This surely can’t be normal, what am I doing wrong?
I’ve only had the bike for 900km too, and I’m pretty good when it comes to cleaning and lubing. My drivetrain is Shimano SLX M7000 if it matters.


texts: Shimano STI does not shift up/to lower cogs

texts:
Typ: Shimano RS505 2x11 hydraulic

Problem: Up shifting is possible to the 5th or 6th cog, after this the STI does not give the click feedback and the derailleur does not move to the next smaller cog.
If the cable is under more tension the STI shifts normaly and makes a proper click on every shift.
The derailleur is cleaned and has full tension in all positions. I tried a different derailleur and got the same result.

When did the problem occur: After a muddy tour the shifting got worse and inaccurate. Today I cleaned the bike with pressure water. I was always far enough away from the STIs, but maybe some water got into it. After that the derailleur started to stuck.

What did I try so far?: I pulled the rubber hoods down and put some grease into the STI, however it did not get better yet.

Any chance to repair the STI?


texts: Is it common for the left side spokes of a front disc wheel to have more tension than the right side spokes?

texts:
Wiping my bike down after a wet ride, I noticed that the left side spokes on my front wheel are tighter than the right side.  I don't have a tensionometer but squeezing pairs on each side and plucking spokes around the wheel yields a feeling of increased tension and a tad higher pitch sound of the left side spokes. This is generally so around the entire wheel.

The wheel is a 26 inch Mavic 119. The 32 spokes are laced 3 cross.  The 9mm QR axle is fully engaged in the suspension fork's dropouts, and each side of the rim is equidistant to the inside of the fork leg. With the tire still on, can see it seems to run true and centered. The disc rotor is 160 mm Shimano.

Do disc-brake wheels have greater spoke tension on the left, rotor side?


texts: How do I adjust V-brakes that engage too abruptly

texts: New bike and the front V-brake makes the wheel stop as soon as it is engaged. how should I adjust it to soften it up a bit. will adjusting the angle of the pad have an effect?


texts: Unable to get into a 'TT' position, is my bike fit wrong, or am I just fat?

texts: I've been road cycling since July 2017. I am an overweight guy, the cycling has helped shed some kilos but I'm not at my ideal weight yet, and most of my weight is stored in my belly. A month after getting my bike, I got a professional bike fit done, and it has made me very comfortable on my bike. However, when I go on group rides I see the more experienced riders always get into a TT position (forearms on handlebars) during long stretches of roads. I have tried to get into that position but its uncomfortable, and my peddling becomes extremely inefficient. My question, is this because i'm overweight and lack flexibility, and this will just come with time, or is my bike fit wrong?


texts: Chain rubbing on new derailleur and crankset

texts:
My bicycle is a Rockrider 520. I have replaced my front derailleur with Shimano Acera FD-M390 and my crankset with Shimano Acera FC-M391. But chain is rubbing inside of FD even when FD cable is not attached. I tried completely loose L screw but it still rubbing and FD is not moving inside anymore. FD is parallel with chainrings and there is 3 mm gap with FD and biggest chainring. How can I solve this?

Pics: http://imgur.com/a/QJlHg


texts:
Normally, when applying a patch to a tube, both the patch and the tube surfaces are smooth and it is easy to press the patch onto the tube.

However, some tubes have small ribbed areas where it is hard to get a patch to fully adhere.

What do you do to avoid small air leaks by a rib?

Photograph:

Recently, I had another leak in the ribbed area so I took the advice and used a smaller patch, scratched things up better, waited 5-10 minutes, and pressed down with my full body weight. The patch lasted about a week before developing the following slow leak.


texts: Will I snap my derailleur? (too large front chainwheel)

texts:
I have an old racer (1994 Specialized Epic Allez - lugged carbon) that's in pretty good shape. I brought it to an LBS that's got a pretty good reputation and that I've used before, to change the chain and look at the front crankset as it was making a weird noise.

When I come to pick it up they have changed the whole crankset, chainwheels and all. I used to have a 34-50 (or so - I can't remember the details), and now the larger wheel is definitely bigger (52?). In theory I don't mind, as I was missing a higher gear for the flats.

But there's one problem... My chain is not long enough to use the largest chainring in front while on the largest cog at the back. I know that it's not 'the done thing' to use diagonal gears like that, but I did get into that combination by mistake yesterday, and was rather shocked when everything just got stuck.

My question is the following:

Is this a dangerous combination? Will I at some time by mistake get into the 'wrong' gear and by stamping on the pedals ruin the derailleur?

Or should I simply learn never to use that combination of gears? And instead be happy that I now have an even higher gear for those nice long slightly downhill stretches?


texts: Is it possible to glue or patch tire sidewalls?

texts:
This morning I discovered that my commuter folding bike had a bad flat tire, and I ran out to buy a new tube, no problem.  I didn't notice until after I'd changed the tube that the tire sidewall was beginning to crack.

I need this bike for my commute tomorrow, and am not going to be able to get a replacement tire on short notice.  Is there anything I could do to reinforce the sidewall to minimize the chance of a catastrophic flat tomorrow?

I saw something on Answers.com about supergluing tears in tires, but I don't know if that's good advice or not.


texts:
So I did a hasty fix this morning when I had a puncture. It got me to where I needed to go, but by the evening it was flat again.

I checked under water and there is that tiny little air bubbles coming out from under the patch. Is there any way for me to save this tube and patch well, or will I just need to replace it?


texts: Reinstalling tire after replacing inner tube, how important is it that tire bead is even along rim?

texts:
Replacing my inner tube, I've been having some trouble getting the tire back on the rim with the bead completely even throughout. For an example of what I'm talking about, see this segment of a tutorial:

             (7:30-8:45)

The tire bead isn't very far up or down where it's uneven, but there's still a handful of spots it's uneven after inflating. It looks pretty good and I've been inflating/checking/deflating/shifting/repeating many more times than I remember having to last time I did this.

How important is it that the tire bead is even along the rim? What are the issues that could arise (or rather deflate) due to unevenness?


texts: Never used a repair stand before. Wondering how much they can handle

texts:
So, I've started to look into buying a bicycle repair stand.  I've never used one before, and I was just wondering if people keep their bikes clamped while really torquing down on a bolt, and trying to get stuck ones off.

I'm interested in going for a bottom of the barrel stand first, but most of them have plastic connectors that connect the clamping arm to the long vertical post that goes down to the ground.  I'm afraid that if I push or pull to hard on the bike, that the plastic part on the stand will break.  Is this a legitimate concern?

Are stands only meant for 'delicate' jobs, or can you leave them in for things like bottom bracket removal too (that often require a lot of force to remove cups)?

Also, doesn't the bicycle 'dangle' and move side to side a lot in a stand since it's only clamped in one spot?  I just imagine trying to tighten/loosen a bottom bracket cup, and the bicycle moving a bunch laterally.  Does this happen?

Thanks everyone.


texts: I have recently been given a bike, all works fine accept the gears keep jumping down to 3. It'll say it's on gear one on the handle bars, but the chain is sitting on the third set of teeth. So I'm looking for a replacement derailleur but I cannot seem to find the right one. It is a Shimano SIS; I have attached a photo of it. If anyone could help would be much appreciated (:


texts: Should I ask for my money back - crack in Titanium frame

texts:
About 2 years ago I got my new bike - an Enigma Ti bike. The frame was customised for Di2 and I had hydraulic disk brakes fitted. An expensive bit of kit that was supposed to last forever and make my commutes a pleasure.
I love the bike, it's fantastic but yesterday I found this:

When the guy at the bike shop (not the one I bought it from) saw it he said I was very lucky it hadn't given way. I had been hearing very worrying noises when applying power. My 18 mile ride home through London was done VERY carefully.

So my question is should I accept a replacement frame or should I ask for my money back? This bike was about £5500 and I've done around 9,500 miles on it in 2 years.
What is to say that this won't happen again and I'll end up under a bus?

I am a heavy guy - hovering between about 16 and 18 stone over the last 2 years but surely a Ti frame should be able to cope with that?

If I do decide to get a replacement what should I reasonably expect the bike shop to do about me not having a bike in the meantime. It's likely to be several weeks if not months to get me a new bike. In that time I expect to have a bike to do 180 miles (290 km) commuting on a week and I have long rides like the Ride London 100.

I do have my old £500 bike but I'm probably going to have to spend a fair amount of money servicing it to get it usable again.


texts: I'm replacing all bearings in pivot links on my full suspension bike and for one of them seems to have more space around bearing itself (housing? if that is right term). I can pop it out and insert it back without using any tools (7 other bearings had to be press fitted). Should I worry about this 'loose' bearing, can I fix this issue by applying Loctite? (Can I use blue Loctite 243 for this or I need stronger grade?)


texts: Should rim tape cover the small holes at the side of the rim?

texts:
My rims have a couple of small holes along the edge of the flat at bottom of the bead (just above the valley). I assume they are there to vent the space between the tube and the tire, i.e., to let air out as the tube is inflated, but I don't see why that should be necessary. Maybe they are manufacturing artifacts?

The holes are small -- about a 0.1" (2.5 mm) in diameter. Should I cover them with rim tape to protect the tube? That will require wider rim tape--wide enough to get into the bead area. Seems bad.


texts: upgrade traditional saddle clamp (not seat tube clamp)?

texts:
I'm currently restoring my folding bike and it has a large diameter (34 mm/1.34 in) seatpost that tapers to the standard 22 mm/0.87 in diameter at the end.

The bike currently uses that traditional saddle clamp that clamps to the seatpost tube.

I wanted to upgrade the saddle clamp to the common 1-bolt clamps you see in pre-built seatposts. I eventually found one while searching but it's a bit pricey for my wallet. I liked its design of having a separate bolt for clamping to the tube.

Are there any clamps similar to this?

Edit: I also found another design but I'm still checking it out.

I just really hate having to wrench out nuts in my adjustments, so I wanted a clamp that uses bolts.


texts:
Can't shift down from 50T with clutch on, but can shift down with clutch off, why?

I'm using sunrace 11-50 and XT RD-M8000 (SGS), finished setting up everything for absolutely perfect shifting, then realised the clutch was off. Turned it on, shifting is still excellent (but with the usual clutch effect) except it will not shift out of 50T. The shifter clicks, the RD stays put, same thing if I do multiple shifts down. I can however backpedal for a while after one downshift to drop the chain into the 42T, the RD then moves, after which I can pedal forward and carry on shifting down perfectly.

This is not a derailleur setup issue, not only have I got everything setup by the book, but I've played around with 4mm to 12mm gaps between the 50T and top pulley with B-screw with no luck.

My calculations (full formula including 2 links for derailleur, not rough estimate) showed that 113.4 (=114) links on the chain should be enough, I installed with 117 links initially, felt that was too much chain, removed 2 links and am using 115 now. Doubt it's chain length, can't see why everything would be fine with clutch off if it's chain length, but worth considering.

RD is just out of the box, so I doubt it's the Nm on the clutch, but going to check that out soon.

It's not a big issue, since there are only 2 to 5 (depending on conditions) places where I need/want the 50T and all of them are during the (mostly) climbing half of my local rides, so I can ride up with clutch off and ride down with it on.

Above all I'm curious why extra chain tension from clutch could cause this; even if the Clutch tension is too high and that is the reason, why would this happen? After all, it shifts even under quite a lot of load with clutch off (I avoid this bad shifting practice where possible, I was just testing!)


texts: Rear brake pad clearance problem on '06 Specialized Langster

texts:
I have a 2006 Specialized Langster, size 50cm. I replaced the brake calipers years ago with older-style Shimano 105 single-pivot sidepull brakes.

The brakes have never been very powerful. Worse yet, the rear brake caliper fixing bolt seems pretty short and the brake sits close to the seat stay bridge, resulting in very little clearance between the pads and the seat stays. This severely limits which pads I can use because most pads bang up against the seat stays and ding it repeatedly.

I'm thinking of replacing the brakes with newer, dual pivot 105's for better stopping power. Is there a way I can tell if those brakes will fit or not before I order them (ie what measurements do I need to know and compare with the newer 105 dual pivots?). Also, I'm wondering if those brakes would provide enough clearance for 28mm tires. I would appreciate your thoughts.


texts: different types of rear shock suspension and their uses?

texts: explain me about the rear suspension of mountain bike.


texts: I picked up a frame a week ago and the guy said that he had it for about a year or so. And he told me that both brake arms were stuck on the brake post. But I tried so many ways to pop these suckers off but nothing worked. I can also see grease on the bottom of both arms so maybe too much grease on them was the case? I never really work with V-Brakes too.


texts: Best entry level heavy rider bike: Northrock XC00 vs. Mongoose Mushaboom

texts:
My current weight is 145 kg and I should be 135 kg before summer.
I'm looking for an entry level bike for street riding to help me lose more wight.
I've read a lot about heavy riders and the top suggestions are wide tires, 36 spokes and steel frame.

So far I've narrowed two bikes in Canada that are very similar, the main differences are:

Northrock XC00 469.99$
aluminium frame
4 inch wide tires
32 spokes front an back
Mongoose Mushaboom 368.42$
steel frame
4.5 inch wide tires
36 spokes front and back

I know nothing about bikes and I haven't road one in 25 years :-)
I prefer the XC00 even if it's 100$ more than the Moshaboom
It seems sturdier in the photos

Is the XC00 aluminium frame and 32 spokes not recommended for a 135 kg rider?
Is there another bike for 135 kg rider under 500$?


texts:
Today I finally got a couple of Urban Cruisers I ordered a while ago.

For the last 7 months I have been commuting on a very heavy cheap 29er mountain bike. These new ones feel incredibly light by comparison, comfortable, rolled beautifully, brakes that actually work, and on my test drive I was flying around, but all in all it was a bit unsatisfying, it was just too easy and it felt 'twitchy'. Skinnier road tyres, lighter frame.

Should I switch bikes every so often to build up my leg strength faster, or will these new bikes do the same thing anyway? I only ride on the road.

More importantly, could I actually lose some leg strength going with the lighter bikes (I didn't feel I got anywhere near the workout I usually do)? Or am I just nitpicking because I'm not used to them?


texts: Shimano Mountain Bike Cassette Comparison

texts:
Can anyone explain to me the difference between the cassettes of different MTB Shimano groupsets in terms of value for money and durability?

In particular I am interested in the entry level cassettes for 8 or 9 speeds as CS-HG200, CS-HG31, CS-HG400.


texts: Are the numbers on a shifter standardised?

texts: My bike has several gears labelled one to six. Do these numbers relate specifically to a certain standard? In other words, would a bike set to say gear four on one bike, perform in the same way as another different bike set to the same gear?


texts: Can I replace the crank on a Raleigh m20 with one from a Schwinn Ranger?

texts:
I have a Raleigh m20 mountain bike with a messed up crankset.

The only other crankset I have is from a Schwinn Ranger. The two cranksets look like they are the same size. Is it possible to install the other crankset on the Raleigh or will I encounter any problems doing so?