texts: How to increase the durability of gear-shifters

texts:
I am not a professional cyclist and may not even be a good rider but it seems like I tend to break my shifters way too often.
I initially had a SRAM-X4 8x3 Shifters which ripped apart in an accident. This seems reasonable because the accident was the reason the shifter broke.
So, I upgraded to a Shimano ST-EF50 8x3. This is where the problems seem to arise. Once again, I want to humbly point out that I might not be a good rider and might have put some excessive stress on those shifters than they are meant to withstand but from what I've noticed, after just 8 months of regular 2 hours/day commutes, the 8-speed shifter's top plastic part just popped out. I was speculating that maybe I might have dropped it somewhere quite hard and this might have done some damage to it but for what I was concerned due to my tight schedule it was at least working so I took some masking tape and rolled around the shifter to temporarily hold the plastic so that I can go home and fix it. Since I am a student and I couldn't find any time to fix it and unfortunately so I was forced to ride my cycle without permanently fixing the shifter. After a month, the 8-speed shifter completely failed, all the parts inside started to come out. I understood that it could be my fault to use it without fixing so I didn't think it was the shifter fault.
This model was the standard shifters found in most entry-level cycles so I assumed it would be reliable so I bought another set of the same shifters and to my surprise, the same issue came again after 10 months but this time in both shifters. This time I just bypassed the shifter and kept my 8-speed derailleur in 4th and was riding it doing 2-3 hour/day commutes. I skied off the main road after a car bumped into me. The impact was high and my rear derailleur (Shimano Altus RD-M310) broke completely. I basically left my cycle on dirt for 6 months and thought of doing a complete 8 to 9-speed upgrade.
I bought a brand new Shimano Alivio RD-M4000 and SL-M4000-R and L shifters. I kept the old stock front derailer Shimano Altus FD-M310. Everything was going smooth, I really enjoyed riding my cycle. It felt brand new. I enjoyed it so much that I took it for 8 hour/8-10 km drives 3 days once and that was the end of the happiness. 1 year later, it happened again. The shifters broke but this time only the left 3-speed one. Right now I am convinced that there's something in my driving style causing the damage. I don't know what is causing the damage but what I do know is there is something which is causing the damage. After some conversations with my biking community, it seems like it is common for gear shifters to fail and I want to know if this is true. My objective is to use your amazing expertise to advise noob cyclist such as myself on how to use the gear shifters and to find the answers to the following questions.

Will the way we're using the shifters affects its durability?
If so then how to prevent it?
Are there more durable shifters in the market then mentioned above?
Are there any other miscellaneous advice regarding gear shifter you'd like to provide for the new and upcoming cycling enthusiasts?

Thank you so much for your valuable time.
PS: I'd like to point out that all the parts mentioned above were bought in an authorized showroom. The cycle was bought from Decathlon and is a Rockrider 5.2.
Initially, it was shipped with a SRAM X-4 8-speed and now after many upgrades, it has a Shimano Alivio RD-M4000 9-speed as mentioned previously. I do know it's expensive to upgrade each part rather than buy a new cycle with the better parts. The sole reason I am sticking to this cycle is for sentimental purposes.


texts: How do I determine what types of maintainence I need to perform?

texts:
I just got a new bike and I want to make sure I’m able to keep it up properly. I am entirely new to this.

Edit: thank you all for your responses, I’ll keep these all in mind and I’m adding them to my reminders to make sure I remember.


texts: Recommended transmission for a commuting bike

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I want to get a new transmission group for my bike and I'm quite confused, so I'd really apreciate some help from the community. Here's some context:

I own, since last October, a Giant Escape 2 (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/escape-2-2016) which I use for my daily 22km commuting (11km from home to work and 11km back) plus daily errants and the eventual lay-back ride with my GF or friends. It has a 3x8 Shimano M191-Altus group.
My regular route has several elevation changes and a couple of steep climbs along the way. According to Runtastic Road Bike, I have about 74m of elevation up and 50m of elevation down and I have realised that I mainly use the middle cog on the front crankset, going from the 3rd (on full stops and uphill) to the 5th gear, and the large cog of the frontal set when going faster, applying the 6th and 7th gear. I have an average speed of 20Km/h.

So, for my question, I'm wondering if I could do better with a 1x11 or 2x10 transmission set, since there's one frontal cog which I've literally never used in the 2500k that I've rode this bike. Or is it me that I'm not using it properly?
If you think I should replace my transmission, which one would you recommend? Considering that I don't want to spend any body part on the upgrade =)

Thank you very much for taking the time to read my amateurish-bad-english-nonsensical question and a big kudos to those who will reply it!


texts: Are there penny-farthings with an internally geared hub?

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Has someone built a penny-farthing (high-wheel/ordinal) with a gearbox in the hub? If not, are there obvious reasons one cannot do such a thing?

(I recognize this is silly, but that never stopped people from doing all sorts of other things.)


texts:
I started using aluminum rollers to ride indoors this winter and noticed streaks left on the tires.  I've also seen tires specifically advertised for use with rollers.

I'm wondering whether using the rollers will tear up or degrade a high quality road tire in any way?


texts:
I see that there are many types of aero bars, i.e., different designs. I am going to buy one but I am not sure which one is better.
Here are two types of aero bar designs:

Type1

Type2

The first one is a bit straight and the second one with a rise towards the forward end.
Can anyone please list the pros and cons of the 2 designs?
I am new to cycling and I hope that this question is not closed as a product recommendation because I am asking about the design.


texts:
I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me. I am a complete novice and know nothing about any of this so I apologise. I recently purchased a Tacx Flux secondhand and have attached my bike to it and its making this awful noise! Does anyone know what the problem can be, or how to fix it, or is the trainer broken? Any suggestions or thoughts are welcomed! Thanks guys
It can be seen/heard here


texts:
I have a 2010 Specialized Tricross Sport Triple. I want to know what type and size of Bottom Bracket I need to replace the original one.

Specialized's archived page for this bike lists the BB as a "BB-7420 w/crank bolts". From what I've read online, this is a British threaded, square tapered, 68mm BB.

From what I've read elsewhere online, a common replacement for this is the Shimano BB-UN55, at around $15 CAD online. However, I haven't found a consensus about what length the Tricross needs. Here someone says 118mm for the 2011 Tricross; Bikepedia lists 113mm for the 2010.

Is there any way to figure that out without taking the bottom bracket out to read the specs off of it?

And is there any other spec beyond the threading, width, taper style, and length, that I need to ensure compatibility?

Finally, if there's a better replacement than the BB-UN55, I'd be curious to know about it. I'd like to stay under $50 CAD.

Thanks.


texts: What is the easiest way to fix a loose chain?

texts: Are there adjustments that can be made instead of replacing it?


texts: Can I change my hub so I can put disc brakes on the bike

texts:
So I have this 2007 Janis XC bike and I’m turning it into a trail bike on a budget. I wanted to know if I could change the hub on the wheel instead of buying a new wheel set so I can install some disc brakes?
The bike frame already has I.S mounts for disc brakes.


texts:
I dug out my late Dad's bicycle. Dad used the bicycle during his medical school days in the late 1940s ... or so. The bicycle has accumulated sufficient rust that it is impossible to identify the manufacturer.

What is this device attached to the seat-tube? It's upper portion appears to be spring-loaded..


texts:
We bought a Watseka XP Cargo Electric Bicycle off amazon back in 2014
recently is hasnt been working and after further inspection we found that one of the batteries has failed (the one pictured below).  However i have been unable to find a replacement.  any suggestions?  its form factor is quite different from the what is standard now (the existing battery is shaped like a cube, where as all of the new ones i see are rectangle).
http://watseka-bikes.com/ seems to be down and has been for a while now so i think the manufacturer is out of business


texts:
I rode the Georgia 3 gap bike ride yesterday.  For me almost a lifetime accomplishment.  I used a Garmin 510 and when it reached 22% I plugged in an external charger.  The screen continued to indicate my ride.  However, when I finished and hit Save  there was no data preserved.  Is there any way to retrieve this data?

Thanks, Dave Holmes


texts:
I have a Race Face Evolve DH crankset which takes 104 BCD chainrings. However, I pulled a 104 BCD chainring off a Shimano Acera Crankset and the rings don't interface properly with the Race Face cranks. The chainring bolts line up, but the shape of the ring below the crank bolts has a different curvature and doesn't mate with the crank spider.

I'm trying to just buy cheap/durable steel chainrings for my mountain bike and didn't expect this incompatibility.

What chainrings are generally compatible with this crankset? Are sram/truvative rings generally compatible?


texts: How to identify counterfeit Shimano parts?

texts:
I bought a pair of Shimano brifters from eBay, brand new.  They have a few bumps and marks on the plastic and metal parts that look like poor quality manufacturing to me.  Can anyone tell from these photos whether these are legit?  The model is Acera ST-EF65.

My tinfoil hat is on because they shipped from China, brand new without original packaging.

I was thinking maybe a good test is to dip the cables in water for a few hours and see if they rust.  To see if they are truly stainless.

Update:  While installing this, I noticed it does not have a hole to adjust brake pull between V or caliper style.  The dealer manual says it should have this.  Hmm...


texts:
On a road bike what is a good target solo speed for someone who wants to be a better than average cyclist?
Like is there a certain speed where you know as a cyclist you are doing pretty good like 20 MPH+ for an extended period of time?
What is the speed and duration in time/distance one would need to be able to sustain in order to consider semi-pro racing (male rider)?


texts: How to remove play in cantilever pivot point?

texts:
I have been working my way through issues with noisy front cantilever brakes. After running through many different ways to solve the issue including new pads (Kool Stop Dura2 Duel Compound), setting the toe in and cleaning the rims.
I now believe the noise is being generated by the play in the pivot point of the cantilever arm. It is not possible to tighten the bolt any further so there will need to be a washer or shim placed in here.

Has anyone had any success in removing the play from the pivot point?

The bike is a cyclocross Kona Jake 2012.


texts: Are brake lever reach limit screws necessary for any reason?

texts:
I have some generic cantilever brake levers on my MTB.  The brake reach adjustment screws are normally fully wound out, so are not limiting the brake's reach at all.

Can I remove them permanently ?   I can't see any downside?

Generic image showing Reach Adjustment Screw


texts: What is the proper position for quick-release levers?

texts: Is it best to have the front wheel release lever in front of the fork, tailing the fork, or aligned with the fork? How about the rear; ahead, behind, or alingned with the chainstays, seatstays, or between the two?


texts:
According to: http://www.sram.com/sram/road/technologies/powerlock

"SRAM chain engineers developed PowerLock as a tool free, sure and consistent way to connect our 10 speed chains. While PL does not require special tools for install, the especially tight tolerances of 10 Speed drive trains mandated that each PowerLock is good for a one-time application only."

According to: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-pc-1051-chain

The SRAM PC-1051 Chain is compatible with both SRAM and Shimano 10-speed drivetrains. Please note that while the PowerLock installation can be done tool-free, it's recommended to be used only once due to the extremely close tolerances required by the narrow 10-speed design. So if you must break your chain for maintenance reasons, a new 10-speed PowerLock link will be required to reassemble it.

Two questions:

Why is this the case?
Have people hear observed or seen tests about what happens if you re-use?

I use the Park Tool Master Link Pliers to remove master links. I have a hard time believing that doing it that way stresses it significantly.
Related, from http://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-mastering-master-links-36757/:

"According to SRAM, the ridge that joins the two plates of the PowerLock together can be damaged when unlocking it, increasing the risk of failure if reused. So yes, if you choose to reuse a PowerLock there is an increased likelihood of if failing, according to SRAM."
I know a number of professional and team mechanics who routinely reuse PowerLocks on their own bikes, but replace them with a new link when dealing with a customer or athlete, so it’s a bit of “do as I say, not as I do.”


texts:
I just pulled my seat out as the first step of breaking my bike down for winter storage, and found that rust has formed between my seat tube and my seat post. The rust starts maybe 3" down the tube and continues for perhaps 4 more inches.

Is there anything I can do to remove the rust from the tube and post? What steps can I take to prevent it from reforming?


texts: How to judge comfort when buying a new saddle

texts:
I bought a Motobecane Mirage S recently from bikesdirect.com

I took the following advice from a bikes forum:

  Plan on changing the seat, pedals, and possibly the tires. The seat
  will make your butt feel and look like a loose meat sandwich, which
  will be the outcome on just about any road-bike you buy for under
   $1000.00.

Because I am on a budget I bought a Selle Italia Flite seat on craigslist for only 30.00

I see reviews saying how comfortable this seat is even on long rides but when I feel it in my hands it feels significantly harder than the seat that came with my Motobecane Mirage S.  I was hoping someone could shed some light on this counter-intuitive phenomena regarding saddle hardness and whether it will actually perform better on long rides and more importantly, why that would be?


texts: Is it rude to take the lane, then filter when encountering congestion?

texts:
In the city I live in, there's a lot of two lane roads.

I feel much more comfortable taking the lane, as to not have a car come up from behind and clip me while overtaking.

However, when I encounter congestion ahead, I can safely ride between cars, (because I'm the one judging the spacing).

This seems rude to be riding in a way that I'm not allowing people to overtake me (unless using a different lane to), but then allowing myself to overtake others. Are there any etiquette guidelines concerning this technique?


texts: Should I rather treats single spots to conserve the original paint or go for a repaint with a restoration project?

texts:
I'm working on a '76 Peugeot PL8/E and am debating whether I should leave the paint as is, give all the small spots manual treatment or try to restore by getting it repainted/decaled. There are some bigger spots (rear brake bridge, dropouts, fork end, chain stays) and a number of smaller chips all over, e.g. the top tube. I want to prserve the bike for long time use, as most functional parts are still fine. Concrete questions would be:

Will the rusty/blank spots be a functional problem down the line?
Will power coating work well with the steel frame?
Is it possible to treat all the small spots where the paint came independently to preserve "the original"?

picture: complete frame + fork

picture: drive side chain stay

picture: rear brake bridge

picture: original paint nose?

fork end - funnily enough, the fork appears to originally been meant to be a different colour (they also
sold the model in orange)


texts: Itinerary suggestions for a weeklong trip along New York and Vermont Borders

texts:
I'm starting to plan a weeklong trip in July in Northen New York/Central Vermont. I want to find a place where I could establish a basecamp: set up my tent and leave my car, and then bicycle different 50-ish mile loops every day. Maybe mix it up a little with a good day hike as well.

I've never been to this area before, so I'm a little unsure of good options. So far the following areas look appealing:

State Bike Route 9 near Ticonderoga. Perhaps into Green Mountain National Forest.
In Adirondack Park - Maybe basecamp near Indian Lake (more routes highlighted).

If anyone knows of 'must see' or 'must avoid' areas, I'd really appreciate a heads up!


texts: Shifters compatible with: SG-3D55 (Shimano Nexus 3 speed - disk brake - internal gear hub)

texts:
I am planning to buy the SG-3D55 internal gear hub.

According to this forum post, the SL-3S35 is compatible. But what about the other 3 speed nexus shifters? I am finding it hard to find any documentation.

Also I am in the UK, so hoping to source the shifter for here if possible. I am already resigned to having to import the SG-3D55 from the US, as I can't find it in the UK/Europe.

Any specific or general wisdoms gratefully appreciated.


texts: Front wheel shudder on Cyclocross brakes

texts:
I have a Javelin Primitivo with cantilever brakes. My front fork is carbon.

When I brake the front wheel will "shudder". I replaced my wheels and adjusted my brakes (toed them in). I have even tried my road bike wheels.

Any thought on solving this? I would like to upgrade my brakes but I want to keep the option for my wide tires.


texts: What is the maximum number of cassette teeth compatible with Shimano 11 speed 53-39T, 52-36T & 50-34T crankset?

texts: I want to upgrade my bike which can speedup in flats but also climb efficiently in slopes. Can someone give the maximum number of teeth that would be compatible with those 3 cranksets, if I where to use a MTB RD? Also, I prefer Shimano as they are abundant here in our area and way cheaper than SRAM.


texts:
I have a recurrent problem when riding in high humidity climate, either with hot or cool weather: after some hours riding, my nipples (in the chest, not in the wheel :o) get very sore from friction against the shirt's fabric.

It seems that it has to do with salty sweat, the waving-flag movement of the shirt fabric against the skin, and perhaps with cold causing nipple erection, further increasing the friction.

A more experient friend of mine has reported the same recurring problem, having even seen people bleeding from this.

So I ask if anyone else has suffered from this problem, and how I could expect to solve it. I am considering to take along some band-aids, but I think there could be some preventive measure before the band-aids be needed, in the first place.

Thanks for any insight!


texts: Riding packed limestone trails on 700x23 ties

texts:
I recently bought a Trek 2.1 and it came with 700x23 100psi tires. I do a lot of road riding, but every once in a while the packed limestone (rails-to-trails) trails are the better option. I've ridden a few times already with no incident, but I would like some input as to whether this is a safe idea?

Side note, I am planning a self-paced century that will utilize almost 50 miles of packed limestone. If 700x23 is not a great idea, what width would you recommend for a limestone/road century?


texts: I bought a new bike and when I put it on my bike rack in my garage the arm of the rack sits on the rear brake cable, putting some tension on the cable. Could this cause brake problems and if so what can I do to mitigate this?


texts: Used wheels - corrosion or dried rim tape adhesive?

texts:
I recently bought some used Fulcrum CPX 4.5 off eBay. They seem to be in pretty good condition, the hub is fine and wheel runs true etc. However, I noticed that when I moved them I heard dust rolling about in the wheels. I pulled of the rim tape for the rear wheel and found loads of white dust (see picture bellow).

Is this corrosion of the wheel, or something else?


texts: Headset labeling - Does this qualify as EC30?

texts:
I am currently in a dispute with an eBay vendor about the sizing of a threaded headset I purchased. Before I initiate a refund claim, I would like to make sure I'm in the right.

The headset's manufacturer is XLC and the model is HS-S01. The eBay listing describes its dimensions as "1" EC30/22.2 EC30/26.4". When installing it on my bike frame, the cups went into the headset bore without requiring any press-fitting, and they are so lose that they slide right off when not held in place.

The frame has a headset bore of 30.1mm. According to my research from the Park Tool documentation and other sources, this is compliant with the EC30 SHIS standard, and a headset advertised as EC30 should achieve proper press-fit.

There is actually no mention of a SHIS code on the part label, which simply describes the item's dimensions as 22.2/30.0/26.4. It's unclear if the 30.0mm figure refers to the frame bore diameter, as the manufacturer's website seems to indicate (see the link to XLC above), or the cup diameter. On the part I got, I measured a 30.03mm cup diameter.

My argument is that the vendor's mislabeled the item by adding the EC30 SHIS code, which specifies a bore diameter that is incompatible with the part, regardless of how you interpret the manufacturer's labeling. If anything, this is an EC29 part, which would fit the actual cup size.

Based on the information above, is that argument correct?


texts:
I have a rear rack.

However, I don't really have a good way to carry pizza.

Cables?  Any big enough bags?  I can avoid leaning too much, I'll slow on the turns if I have to..

Edit: Delivery?  Not in this town.  I just want a pizza...


texts:
I have Formula T1S disc brakes (2014 or 2013 model). One day when it was quite hot (in the 30s), but otherwise on a very mild ride on bike paths with kids, the brake started rubbing constantly by itself, grabbing the wheel quite strongly as if on both sides, giving me significant resistance (couldn't even spin the wheel freely). I couldn't reset it using normal disc brake alignment procedure (loosen bolts, hold lever, tighen while holding).
Upon more careful examination, when I removed the brake pads at home, it turned out the pistons inside are pushed inwards, not flush with the brake body, and I can't push them back outwards - I mean both at the same time: when I push one outwards, the other goes in.
How to diagnose how to proceed from there? I haven't serviced these brakes since I bought the bike 5 years ago and in fact it was my first bike with disc brakes, I don't have a lot of experience here. Other answers and various videos suggest a full bleed procedure which means I should probably bring the bike in to the LBS, as I don't fancy buying a full bleed kit to do something once every 5 years... and I don't even know if it would solve the problem.


texts: Does ProPedal on FOX RP2 rear shock wear out when on during downhill?

texts: Yesterday I forgot to turn off ProPadal before quite nasty downhill ride on my Fox RP2 rear shock (riding Giant Reign 2011) - I can imagine this makes no real harm to the shock but think there can be some extra wear of rubber sealing etc? The downhill was about 1km of a very old road paved with big round sandstone rocks (about 0.5 m in diameter), I think I could have used about 75% on my suspension travel, the shock could had bumped about 300-500 times.


texts:
My rear tire has a small wobble that I have not been able to get rid of.

When you put the bike on its back, and spin the rear wheel you can notice that it moves about 3mm to one side once every rotation. The small wobble causes series discomfort when braking from high speeds (I have disk brakes) since it makes it feel as if I am braking hard once per rotation causing me to jerk back and forwards a bit.

Any idea on how to fix this?

I have taken the wheel off and ensured that it was correctly aligned, yet this did not help.


texts: How tight should my front quick release lever be?

texts:
I'm referring to my first new bike, with a front wheel quick release lever as shown.

The picture is picked from Internet

How can I know whether I have locked my front QR lever correctly? Neither too tight nor too loose? When I tried to open it recently it seemed too tight for me as I was not able to open it.


texts: What size of tyres can I use on my BTwin Original 5?

texts:
I own a hybrid, BTwin Orginal 5 which is almost 5 years old. Lately I've been doing a lot of road cycling.
This bike comes with 700x42c ISO 44-622 size tyres which weigh in around a kg per pop. I wish to change my tyres to help me improve my speed and my cadence as I feel the tyres I have now are weighing me down a lot and I have to put it double the effort other road bike riders have to put in. The bike weighs in around 14kgs.
I would love it if anyone could help me out with what size tyres I can put on this bike as I am pretty confused with mixed response from a lot of people. I would like slimmer tyres which could be used in road conditions. I am confused as I don't know if I can put a proper 28mm or a 25mm road bike tyre on my bike or if I have to stick with the hybrid standards of 32mm or 35mm tyres of which all are 700c. Pls help.


texts: Problems with Edge 510 Cadence/Speed Sensor

texts: I have been looking online for a while on how to fix a bug with my Garmin Edge 510 Cadence/Speed sensor but no luck, and now I'm indoors training it's more important that it works (so I can get "speed" data to approximate power). It often drops out as in this ride and this ride for example. It seems I'm not the first to encounter this problem but I'm struggling to find a solution. Is there a fix?


texts: Best posture to ride a road-bike down hill?

texts:
I know it's been "answered" here, but I am still not satisfied.

In my view, you either have to decide whether you feather the brakes (go down hill at pace) or let go of the brakes (go down hill at full speed).

However, no one seems to be asking what posture one should have.

I found that riding down very steep hills (greater than 16deg), I place my butt over the back of the seat and put all the weight over the back wheel. Is that the way to do it, or is there another better way?

Thanks in advance


texts:
I'm trying to make a more road bike from my old GT Avalanche (26 hardtail), `cause I've bought a new one for trails.

I had a 100 km ride last weekend and found that I really lack hand positions on the handlebars. What are my options? I don't want to buy a drop bar, since it's quite expensive and can cause problems with brake levers and shifters. Are there any good alternatives?


texts: How does fork offset affect bike handling?

texts:
Some forks come in a variety of different fork offsets for the same model.
How does replacing the fork designed for the bike with:

A fork with smaller offset, everything else the same
A fork with bigger offset, everything else the same

Affect the handling of the bike, specifically for downhill and enduro mountain biking.


texts:
I'm going to start a job next summer as a sailing instructor. I've volunteered before and biked the 3.6 mi (5.8 km) commute a few times a day on a mountain bike I found trashed a year prior.

I'm thinking because I'll have my license by next summer I won't need a new bike, but also this bike is just fine. The bike just has a bent wheel that is a bit wobbly and the gears are wonky. Would I be saving money by getting a bike and using that, or is it worth the space and luxury to just use the car? (I already have a car I would use).

I was thinking of getting something like this, but with fenders and a suspension fork: https://www.rei.com/product/816068/novara-randonee-bike-2014

I am located on the east coast of the US.

It seems like everybody has a false impression that I'm a sports instructor or that this is hard work; it's not. Sailing can be hard work, don't get me wrong. But I'm in a motorboat following the kids around.


texts: Why are hub shells such different diameters?

texts: I'm curious: why are some hub shells much larger diameter than others?  Is it an aesthetic consideration? Or are there cost/functionality tradeoffs?  Take for example this Dura-Ace hub -- pretty skinny.  Same for a classic Campy record hub.  Compare to this much fatter Tiagra hub, or a Phil Wood front hub.  I'm just talking standard hubs, not internal gears, powertaps, dynamos, etc.  [Addition after DR Hicks answer: nor I am I talking about hub flanges, but rather the barrel of the hub shell.]


texts: Tire not sitting properly after changing spokes

texts: I've changed many a tire, but never seen this issue. It's not sat properly and is bumping against the fork (seems radially misaligned). Pretty sure the inner tube isn't pinched between tire and rim so unsure what the problem could be.


texts:
I bought a used bike which has 24 front spoke and 28 rear spoke.
I'd like to use this bike to go Tour divide.

Do I need more spokes on front?

I'd like to setup a dynamo system, I see there are not many brands which offer dynamo hubs for less than 28 spokes.

Is it a bad idea to use dynamo hub on 24 spokes when you are riding a ultra long distance such as tour divide?


texts: How do I use the plastic backing on patches?

texts:
It seems that the patches I buy for fixing inner tubes come in one of 2 types. Both have metal foil on the stick-to-tube side. One has paper on the other side, the other plastic.

With the paper ones I can peel off the foil, glue them down, wait a minute, then split the paper from the centre and tear it off.

I can't do this with the plastic backing - any attempt to remove it seems to lift the edges.

Am I supposed to leave the plastic on, remove it before I glue the patch, or what?


texts:
I have been trying to find a bike shop or anywhere that still sells M9 nut which holds on the wheel hub next to the back wheel cassette for the cassette on my back wheel. I have a Vintage Sears Free Spirit Danish bike which has the old 3/8th" or 9mm size.

So far, all the bike shops just say they can not help but no additional help at all despite me asking.  I hope someone can help on here please.

Stock photo of bike


texts: Service/maintanace of Manitou fork and shock

texts:
I'm doing complete overhaul and service of my bike and it is time to service Manitou Minute fork and Manitou Radium shock. They both work fine but they have never been serviced (at least for two years as long as I have this bike, and I think they are 2012 or 2013 models :). Problem is, there is no specialized service for Manitou products in my country and there are no replacement parts available.

My options are limited to taking my shocks to Fox/RockShox service but they have no replacement parts for Manitou and I guess I can expect they'll be able to clean all parts and change oil.

Should I send my shocks to such service (cleaning, changing oil and returning old parts) or it is waste of money and risk of something going wrong?
Or, should I continue to use shocks as they are now, until they stop working properly? What are the risks and problems I can except if I don't service shocks for such a long time?

Edit: (Since the question might be unclear): Is it better to do improvised service of shocks or no service at all?


texts:
Hello,

While riding home last night, my brake lever fell off. It's an older item on an older bike. What's the process to re-attached one of these?


texts: Shimano Hub LED lights working sporadically

texts:
My Shimano hub lights are not working correctly.  All help greatly appreciated.  First time I've had a bike with lights like this.

Specifically, the rear works all the time.  But the front is basically out of action.

It worked on the way to an appointment, then on the way back it didn't.  I accidentally pulled the cable out of the plastic housing when I tried to rectify it (in the rain in the dark...) and so no lights at all on the way home.

The next day I reconnected the copper wire in the plastic contecter and the rear worked, but not the front.  Strangely it decided to come on after about 2km riding, on the way home - and repeated this pattern for the next three days.  Start the day dead, then come back to life after the journey home, just as I turn into my street.  But now it's even stopped doing that.

So...  Is the front simply "not charged", is that even possible, and if so, can I recharge it with a battery or something?

Or, as I read on an other thread, have I reconnected the cables in the wrong order and it's now shorting?

Or, something else?

Thanks for the help folks.


texts: Would a IGH drive train last longer than a derailleur drive train?

texts:
Would a single sprocket + 8 speed chain + single chain wheel used in combination with a IGH last longer than a 10 speed cassette + 10 speed chain + 3x chain wheels?

Image I have 2 bicycles.

Bike 1 has a IGH Rohloff Speedhub 14 with

16T sprocket,
40T chainwheel and
8 speed chain
using chain tensioner (the spring loaded one, not a tugnut). The chain tensioner is compulsory :)

Bike 2 has a

10 speed cassette (11T-36T),
3xchain wheels (40T,30T,22T) and
10 speed chain.

Both drive trains are used in the same conditions and maintained and cleaned at the same time and in the same manner.

Questions

Which drive train will last longer?
What influence does the chain tensioner in the IGH setup have?

In the IGH setup, the same sprocket and chainwheel are used for every ride.

In the 10 speed setup there are more cogs to choose from. The wear is spread out.

I think the 10 speed setup will last longer because there are more cogs.


texts: Shimano 105 compatible 13- or 14- cassettes

texts:
I've just purchased a bike with a 105 group-set, 50 + 34 chainrings and a 11-34 cassette.

I was expecting to be able to replace the cassette with a closer ratio one, with a slightly lower top gear: maybe 13- or 14-. However the shop I purchased it from said the 105 rear mech wouldn't accommodate cassettes with a top ring smaller than 11 or 12.

Is this accurate? Surely if the derailleur can handle the combination of 50T chainring and a 13T or 14T sprocket two or three gears down from top, it can handle it 50T combined with 13T or 14T as top gear as well? Wouldn't a 14T-32T cassette require less forward and backward take-up from the derailleur, compared to the 11-34 cassette that's currently on the bike?


texts: Front wheel getting misaligned while climbing hills

texts:
I've got a single speed bike with bullhorn handles. When I'm climbing steep hills I pull on the bullhorns quite hard, and once I'm back on a flat I'll occasionally find that the front wheel has become misaligned.

It's a new bike, could this be due to the amount of lubrication on the stem that will fix itself over time?

If not, I presume I could tighten the stem, but would that introduce any new problems?


texts: Can I fit road tyres on a cyclo cross bike?

texts:
I've been considering purchasing a Boardman Pro CX Cyclocross Road Bike Large 2010. (Broken link replaced with Google search)

The spec says the wheels are 700C and that it comes with 700 x 35C tyres. I'm wondering, should it be also possible to fit some thinner road tyres with sizes 700x20c, 700x23c or 700x25c?


texts: Rear cassette replace 11-30 with 11-32, or 11-28?

texts: I have an 11 speed 11-30 rear cassette that I would like to replace but cannot seem to find an 11-30 anywhere.  Can I safely replace this with an 11-28 or an 11-32 without replacing my rear derailleur?


texts:
I recently purchased and am now installing a 9 speed Deore XT cassette sprocket (CS-M770) on a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR XC. It's replacing a CS-HG50-9, and is mounted on a Shimano rear hub (FH-M525).
The Shimano shop instructions and exploded view diagram a "lockring spacer" and on the exploded view the part number for this spacer has an asterisk by it.  However, there's no note or other asterick on the page to explain this.
Anyone know if the lockring spacer comes included with cassette (brand new out of the box from Chainreaction Cycles) ?   Also, I've never seen a spacer used in this position prior, but this is by far the fanciest and lightest cassette I've dealt with.
Installation went normally and I only caught this business about the lockring spacer because I simply wanted to add the SI and EV download files to my laptop's collection of bike part files.
Thanks in advance.


texts:
I want to buy a bike, in this case a moutain bike, and the salesmen always ask my height, I am 1.90m, searching the Internet I heard about "bike fit", so I found some sites that through the measurements of your body suggest which dimensions Should use:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp
http://www.argonautcyclecoaching.com/index.php?p=bike-fit-calculator

In my region to make a "bike fit" they charge about $ 600, I found it very expensive, being that I will use the bike to get to and from work (14km).

I wonder if it's really good for me to do, or trust these sites?

P.S.: Translated via google translate, corrections are welcome.


texts: Can and should one install rivnuts into an aluminium frame?

texts:
I have an aluminium frame, and would like to add another bottle cage.  But there are no mounts below the downtube. I've installed rivnuts into a steel frame before, which worked well.
Can I install rivnuts into an aluminium frame?  If the thickness governs yes-or-no, then how would you measure the thickness before drilling?

Searches turn up conflicting information, ranging from "OMG no!" through to statements like:

Some have expressed fear of weakening the frame by drilling holes in it.  If done properly with the right kind of rivnut, the rivnut adds strength back to the frame around the hole.  If you use steel rivnuts on an aluminium frame it is actually stronger than the metal it replaces.
from https://www.electrifybike.com/technical/installing-rivnuts-in-bicycle-frames#/

So, should one install rivnuts onto a frame made from Aluminium?
Inspired by What are velcro alternatives for frame mounted bag?


texts: Switch front and rear tire for distributing wear

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Should I change both tires when I need to change one?

On my road bike, my rear tire has much more wear as my front tire (reported by others on this site as well).

Should I switch my front and rear tire to distribute this wear evenly, or let the rear tire wear more and replace only the rear?


texts: Where can I get a fork that will fit a 7 speed gear and a disc brake? Or how could I make one for said specification?

texts: Im trying to insert a 7 speed gear and disc brake on the front wheel of a recumbent cycle that I'm trying to make. However its difficult to find or almost impossible to get forks with widths that accommodate such components. My aim is to make a FWD cycle. Can it be fabricated if not available as such? If so, can someone tell me how?


texts: Best rest length for "getting your seat"

texts:
I am just getting back on my bike after a couple years and have quickly been made to remember that it takes time to get your butt used to the saddle.  I've read articles about "getting your seat" and all pretty much agree that more short rides will help you "get your seat" faster than few long rides.  They also seem to agree that a "short ride" in this case is about an hour (my typical training loop of about 15 miles takes almost exactly an hour right now).

None of the articles that I have read say how often you should ride during this "my butt is bruised" period.  I'm thinking every other day is about right for me, but I'm wondering anyone has more information on this?  Maybe I should be out every day?  Maybe every third day? 4th day? 117th?  I really have no idea.

I'm on a men's Trek 1.1 with a stock saddle... and a sore (not too sore, just normal beginner's sore) butt.


texts: So I have a Trek Fuel SLR 90 and whenever I ride on flat dirt roads, the back gears randomly keep switching on me. It gets really annoying to ride Please help


texts: Help please - I don't know how to enter settings on my Shimano Steps E600 cycle computer or how to reset trip meter after journey.


texts: I need to change the rear mech  inner cable on my Giant Fastroad slr1 (2016). The cables are run internally through the frame, but I need to know if it is a continuous outer sheath or is in sections, does anyone know please?


texts:
I'm trying to convert a bike to a Shimano GRX 1x setup using the following components: RD-RX812, CS-M8000 (11-42T), CN-HG701-11 (and FC-RX810-1, 42T). The problem I'm stuck at is when shifted to the easiest gear (i.e. the 42T), the topmost rear derailleur jockey wheel sits too close to the cassette, causing the chain to not run smoothly from the cassette through the rear derailleur (see picture).

Can you help figure out what I am doing wrong here? Is the chain too long? I have seen images of GRX setups where the lower jockey wheel is pulled much more forward when in the biggest chainring (example). At the same time I am a bit reluctant to cut my chain, as the current length is exactly what Shimano recommends (adding 4-6 links to the length when wrapped around the biggest rings but not through the derailleur). Any pointers are most appreciated.


texts: Do I Install Tape or Valve First on a Tubeless Rim

texts:
I've just unpacked a tubeless wheelset and I'm installing tape and the valve. Which goes first? The tape or the valve?

My wheelset is the DT|Swiss Tricon R 1700. And the manual says: "Mount the DT Swiss valve as shown in the picture. Make sure that NO rim tape ist mounted."[sic]


texts: Problem with chain skipping when pedaling hard

texts:
If I pedal hard, i.e. while standing/taking off/going uphill, the chain skips over the cogs making a load screeching noise and my foot just sinks to the bottom position.

I attempted to fix this problem so I replaced the crankset, cassette and chain with brand new Shimano Drore M590, Shimano Alivio HG400 and KMC X9 93 chain but the problem remains. I needed to replace these anyway since they are 2 years old and I had low quality components (i.e. drive side crank arm becomes vertical with pedal in bottom position).

I feel like either the free wheel or tension in the back derailleur is causing the problem. I removed the front derailleur because I only use the middle chainring.

I read all the other questions on this issue and they talk about the chain or the cogs being old but this does not apply since mine are brand new.

What is the likely cause of the problem in my situation? How can I make sure?


texts: Does the rear tyre carry more weight than the front tyre?

texts:
As I'm riding my bike, it looks as if the rear tyre is carrying more weight than the front tyre: The rear tyre looks more squished downwards, even though both are equally well-inflated.

This I think has been true for every bike I've had.

Am I just imagining it or is this generally so?

Might this also explain why the rear tyre is more susceptible to wear and tear than the front?


texts: Using wrong speed/size cassette on trainer

texts:
I have a 10-speed bike and my wife an 11-speed. I have burnt enough old tyres on my indoor trainer so decided to try a trainer specific tyre on an old wheel.

The old wheel currently has an 8-speed cassette on it. What would be the effect of using that with my bike and my wife's bike? I'm guessing this would be pretty horrible.

What if I change the wheel to a 10 speed cassette (which is what I will probably do) will my wife's bike work?

My current rear cassette is 11-23 if I put a bigger cassette on say 11-28 I expect my chain would normally need to be lengthened. If I don't lengthen my chain will I just lose the use of the largest cogs or would there be worse consequences?

I have no concerns about poor shifting or missing gears because it's only on the trainer. As long as I can get in one gear that's enough, the trainer has its own difficulty adjuster. Wear on the chain or damage to other parts would be a concern.


texts: How do I tell if a used bike (craigslist) is worth it?

texts:
So there are always a lot of sales going on on craigslist / ebay / etc. How do I tell if what they are selling is worth it?

I don't really know the difference between a $500 bike and $1500 bike. I know weight is one of concerns but 20 or 25 lbs or even 30 lbs it's pretty hard to tell the difference. There are multitudes of brand names and even more variations within the brand name.

There are also the group sets (even discounting too much of customization)

My stats: 5'10, 270 lbs
Purpose: Commuting ~12 miles daily (each way) - (assuming for long rides 50+ a hybrid is better)

I am planning to go to a local shop to try out some bicycles but, i also don't mind used, but somehow doubt someone from Craigslist will let me do a 'test drive'. Hopefully this is enough information about what my purpose and question is

to sum it up:
- What should I look for that will make the difference between a $500 bike and $1500 (both for same purpose) when it comes to Frame/Components


texts: How much of a difference would shifting from a (24/34/44, 14x28) to a (28/38/48, 11x34) configuration make when going downhill?

texts:
I currently have a Proton MTB with a 24/34/44 crankset and a 14-28 cassette. I have found the configuration to be lacking when going downhill: The front chain ring doesn't feel stiff enough on the highest gear resulting in me pedaling too hard.

How much of a difference would it make if I shift to a 28/38/48 crankset and a 11-34 cassette? This configuration is found on the Giant Roam 3 (2018) which I am considering buying. I've done some math:

On the MTB, running the highest gear, I am at an effective gear ratio of 44/14 = 3.14 while the Roam 3's config would give me 48/11 = 4.36. On paper, this is a 38% increase, but I am not experienced enough to know if this translates to a significant difference when pedaling.

The other configuration I've mentioned is actually on another bike that I am considering buying (Giant Roam 3 2018). I am not looking to modify the current bike.


texts:
I got four bikes and they fit nicely inside a cheap 3 person tent. Does it offer good protection?
The tent sits on grass.
For some reason, after raining, I see water on the floor of the tent. Not sure whether it’s from condensation or leaking.
Maybe I should put some pavers under the tent. But is it generally OK to store bikes in a tent? How much different it makes compares to a $400 shed?


texts: Are runners or pedestrians allowed to use the bike lane?

texts:
This morning on my commute I encountered a runner in the bike lane I was riding in.  This irked me because:

The bike lane was on a busy street, with three lanes of motor vehicle traffic in each direction.  (I was northbound on Embarcadero in San Francisco, for those of you familiar with the city.)  To go around the runner I had to enter the car lanes, which makes me a little uneasy.
There is a very wide sidewalk available to runners and other pedestrians along this street.  There were no obstructions on the sidewalk, and it was not choked with other pedestrians.  In other words, there was plenty of room for this runner to run on the sidewalk.  (I'm guessing that he didn't want to run on the concrete sidewalk based on the misguided belief that the asphalt roadway would be easier on his joints.)

So when I was about to pass the runner, I called out, "You're in my lane!"  His reaction was... not positive.  He started yelling and cursing at me.  I don't know exactly what he said; probably something about runners being entitled to use of the bike lane, too.

So my question is this:

Do runners or other pedestrians have a legal right to use the bike lane (not that SFPD would ever enforce this even if it were a violation), especially when there is a sidewalk available?  If this varies with the jurisdiction -- and it probably does -- then I suppose I'm most curious about what the law says where I do all of my riding, in the San Francisco bay area.

(Irrelevant detail: I'm a runner myself -- I do a lot more running than cycling, in fact -- and I've run on this route many times.  I really have no sympathy for those who want to run in the bike lane, just because I feel like the sidewalk is perfectly adequate for runners when it's available.  I don't ride my bike on the sidewalk, after all.)


texts: Does there exist optimal damping setting for all terrains?

texts:
When ζ = 1, there is a double root γ (defined above), which is real. The system is said to be critically damped. A critically damped system converges to zero as fast as possible without oscillating (although overshoot can occur).

Wikipedia

Does this mean that for constant rider+bike weight, there is optimal setting for the fron and rear shock? I had an impression that the terrain and style of riding affect the decision of settings.

Furthermore, if there is optimal damping, does it mean the rebound and compresison damping should be equal (as in the simple model, discussed in wikipedia)? If not, is this because the linear time-invariant model of second order is unable to represent the cyclist as a system adequately? Why?

EDIT (clarifications):

Hmmm, so let's ignore pedaling efficiency. The question still remains relevant.
Optimal as in absorbs terrain irregularities best, resulting in smoothest (closest to straight line) trajectory of the rider.


texts: I need a Crank Reccomendation. Single Speed, BB30

texts:
I am undertaking my first build from a frame. I bought a used Cannondale Synapse Alloy Disc frame. It's quite nice.
I am installing new brakes, cables and everything else.
Also, I am dead set on using an Internal Gear hub in the rear, and have selected a Shimano Alfine 8. My problem is finding a Single Chain Ring crank that will work with it. The frame says BB30 on it and has a BB30 BB installed. It's got two press fit bearings installed and each bearing has a clip ring on the inside of the bearing. The bike only has a couple of hundred miles on it so the bearings look new.
I cannot seem to find a crank that is compatible with this BB30 setup, and I do not know if I can out a different BB in this frame. My local bike shops are swamped this time of year, so no help for months (I live in upstate NY so we have a short season). I'd appreciate any help or advice!! Thanks, Dave


texts: Scott Aspect 710 chain: Shimano or SRAM?

texts:
How can I tell the difference between Shimano and SRAM chains?

I replaced my 10 speed chain and it fell apart. Do I need a power link or a power lock?


texts: How can a recumbent tadpole trike brake three wheels with only two levers?

texts:
So this is probably a terrible idea, but I was looking at recumbent tadpoles recently and it just clicked. I would have two brake levers but three wheels. I would need to have to...

1.) Calibrate the two front brakes off of a single lever which I suspect would be maddening

2.) Only brake using the back wheel and one front wheel (turning when braking sounds like a bad idea)

3.) Forgo braking on the rear wheel since on bikes the front wheel does most braking. I suspect this is similar for trikes. I would instead be able to actuate the brakes on the left wheel with the left lever, right wheel with the right lever etc...

So, the question is, what is the general brake setup for tadpole trikes?


texts:
I bought a new Brooks flyer and applied the first layer of Proofide that came with the saddle.
Considering the price of a full can of Proofide - and also because I am the kind of person who likes to try new stuff:

Are there any Proofide alternatives that worked in your experience (and did not ruin that expensive saddle)?

Did anybody try coconut oil? Will it spoil?

Thanks for your experiences!

Edit: I know that the price of Proofide is still very low in comparison with a new saddle - so it probably makes sense to buy it, but I am still curious for other experiences.


texts: I'm trying to find a front fork. My front axle bolt measures 3/8. The closest forks seem to have a 9mm dropout which is .525mm too small. Should I file down the dropouts to fit the extra .525mm or keep searching for the unicorn, a fork with 3/8 dropout


texts: Can the extreme heat from powder coating influence frame integrity of older bikes?

texts: I just got an older frame powder coated.  The shop that I took it to doesn't specialize in bikes.  They mainly do industrial grade powder coating and perhaps a car wheel here and there, so I wouldn't consider them the most knowledgeable people when it comes to handling frames.  The frame is lugged steel.  Could the heating process influence the frame's integrity?


texts: Chain line adjustment when replacing triple crankset with single

texts: I have an old Univega MTB with a triple 28-38-48 crankset and 6-speed freewheel. The bottom bracket is square taper with cup and bearings. I want to remove the front derailleur and convert to 48T crank, keep the freewheel and rear derailler. The final setup will be 1x6. What adjustments do I have to make to the chain line (priority item) and the bottom bracket, if any. The fixed crankset will be 48T so I expect that chain line adjustment should be minimal, if any, on a bike with a rear derailleur.


texts: What tolerances should I use for spoke tension when building a wheel

texts:
I am replacing the rim on my rear wheel with a new one. I've brought up the tension on the spokes close to the final tension by truing / increasing tension / truing / increasing tension.

I've got myself a park tool TM-1 tension meter.  I've been measuring the spoke tension, and they have a deflection reading varying from 19 to 21 or so, giving tension between 85kgf to 105kgf, using double butted 2.0/1.8 spokes according to the park tool deflection to kgf conversion chart.

How close of a tolerance between spokes tension readings should I allow for the final tension?
How should I even out the tension to the ideal tolerance?


texts: Any special issues with putting a wider internal gear hub in a narrower alu frame?

texts:
Can I safely put my 130mm internal geared hub in a 126mm spaced aluminum frame by forcing it?  What are the consequences?  How would the IGH be "damaged" by this?

My IGH hub has a wheel laced and ready to use, but I would like to use this older, lugged aluminum frame I picked up cheap.

I have heard that steel frames can be "cold set" (i.e. bent), but that aluminum frames cannot.  However, I do find that there is some leeway in stretching the aluminum rear stays, so I think I could force the new IGH hub into the (horizontal) dropouts.  However, Sheldon Brown says that IGH hubs might damaged when you put them on a spacing with the wrong size.

I'm not sure if I would be effectively throwing away my IGH if I put it on this frame.  Has anyone done such a thing?  Does it affect the IGH?


texts:
Fatbikes are traditionally used for sand and snow which are surfaces which are loose and liable to break away under the weight of the bike and rider. They are also materials that don't generally stick to the tyre.

A muddy surface such as a peaty or poor-condition dirt track after rainstorms would also provide some likelihood that the material will break away under the tread. However, mud is often sticky and likely to stick to a tyre.

Therefore is mud more or less likely to stick to a fatbike wide with and diameter tyre than a small skinny ( < 2.5 inch ) mountain bike tyre where more pressure is being exerted over a small surface area, or more extreme a cyclocross tyre (these guys seem to ride and corner in muddy conditions successfully)?


texts: Bent shift lever on Shimano Deore MTB shifter

texts:
I bent the shifter lever on my Deore shifter mech  and the bottom lever that would shift me into an easier gear is running into the lever above it when the bottom lever gets pressed in. If I try and move the top lever out of the way, I can successfully move the bottom lever and get clean shifts with the crisp click every time. Otherwise the bottom lever pushes on the top lever and the shift doesn’t complete. Hopefully the pictures show the misalignment.

Anyone have any good ideas on getting the lever bent back straight? I’m a decently strong guy and I’m trying pretty damn hard to straighten it back out and it’s not moving. I tried removing the bottom cover from the mech as well to use pliers to try and straighten it out to no avail.


texts: Power meter upgrade on 2015 Surly Long Haul Trucker

texts: I have a 2015 Surly Long Haul Trucker with a Andel RSC6 crank and Shimano UN-55 bottom bracket. Is there a crankset I could replace that with that would be compatible with a single side power meter?


texts:
I would appreciate help in identifying this bike.
I was thinking the bike could be a Raleigh as they are common in the UK however the moulding on the tubes is strange to me. I'm guessing the bike is from 1979 based on the sturmey-archer hub having a 79 and 4 engraved.
Any further information on the bike would be really appreciated.

The following link provides the same photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ejkchd1vtSSiqGbRA


texts: How could I find out about my bicycle brand/model?

texts:
I've purchased a bicycle on eBay thinking it was a Colnago as the stickers/item description would let you believe.

Unfortunately, looking at the bicycle a bit more closely, I'm pretty sure this is not a Colnago at some clover-shape embossed stamps are missing on the frame...

The bicycle has got chrome forks and some numbers engraved on the bottom of the frame (see pictures):

D 014
358
6

I'd like to know where my bicycle is coming from and what made/model it is.

Has anyone seen a similar bike in the past?
Would you have any idea how to find out more about this item?


texts: Is it safe to run disc brakes up front on a mountain bike that lacks a disc caliper mounting point in the rear?

texts: Upon sharing my thoughts in an answer to a Bicycle Stack Exchange question, I wondered about my suggestion to use a disc brake up front on a frame that, lacking a disc brake caliper mounting point at the rear and thus implying a lack of additional design considerations for disc brake usage in either the front or rear.  I've a lifetime bicycle tinkering experience, and I know I've heard of running a front disc brake though I can't remember actually seeing this setup.  So, given a bicycle, designed and marketed as a "mountain bike" but lacking a disc brake mounting point on the frame and also equipped with an after market, yet otherwise compatible, suspension fork which has both disc and rim brake mounts: would it be safe to run a disc brake (and rim, of course) in the front of this bike?  If not, why? Any considerations as to safety or viability between the two types of disc systems, hydraulic or cable-mechanical? (Above and beyond the lever, including the ability to use matching front and rear levers in a mechanical disc + v-brake set up).


texts: Avid juicy three piston popped out when bleeding without block

texts:
So, First time bleeding juicy three brakes. I bought a cheap bleeding kit, didn't use a bleed block and the piston was pushed out.Feel a little stupid now.

Pushed piston back in and let the excess fluid out but now there is no reaction from the brakes. The lever goes to the bar. Are the brakes useless? They are about five years old avid juicy threes.

Thank you.


texts:
My daughter is 11 years old. She is growing fast and for her age, she is quite tall (154cm). Her bicycle is too small for her now so I'd like to get her a new one.

The question is: should I look for a kid's bicycle for her or would it make more sense to get a normal bicycle; maybe something like a XS size? My guess is a frame size of 48 ~ 50 cm should be right for her. Do kid's bicycles have anything especial besides being maybe simpler when it comes to using gears, etc? Would an adult bicycle be too complicated for her?

Her old bicycle is an Islabike which is around 9 kg and comes with SRAM X4 Gripshift (32 tooth chainring with 12-32 wide range rear cassette). It was simple enough for her at age 7, when bought it.


texts:
What's the advantages of bigger wheel?
I feel that it's more forgiving on rough road, giving that the tyre width and pressure are the same. Is it just my imagination?

Since population height is improving, why don't we have even bigger wheel by now?


texts: Are aluminum anti-seize and silver anti-seize different?

texts:
I asked someone to pick up some silver anti-seize (which I'd seen recommended) and they came back with aluminum anti-seize.  Is there a difference?

I could imagine that, when used between aluminum and steel, you wouldn't want aluminum in the anti-seize.


texts: 7 speed front Derailleur on 9 speed crankset

texts:
I have 9 speed crankset (44-32-22 FC M542), and matching RapidFire 9x3 speed shifters (FL M590).

Can I use 7 speed front derailleur FD M550 in that combination?


texts:
Yesterday while riding my Surly Ogre around town I noticed that it was making a weird metallic popping noise on the left downstroke. When I got home to take a look I was rather surprised to find that the right chainstay had broken completely free of the dropout at the weld (see pic at bottom).

The frame is out of warranty, so my options seem to be a) buy a new frame or b) try to weld it back. I know nothing about welding, and there is no frame builder in town, but a local machine shop said they could sandblast and TIG weld it back together for $120. My question is a) is this safe and b) is it worth it? The frame set me back ~$440 when I bought it new 5 years ago. So the repair option saves money, but I'd want to be sure the same problem will not arise again in a few years. Also I'm unsure whether it can be rewelded sufficiently strongly.

More generally, what I can do to prevent this from reoccurring? I weigh 175lbs, I've never crashed the bike and have used it exclusively for commuting and ferrying groceries. Back when I built it I sprayed the inside with cosmoline, and it's been kept in a dry climate, so frame rust also doesn't seem like an explanation. I'm puzzled as to how such a beefy bike (to quote Surly's own marketing copy) could fail so catastrophically in a fairly short amount of time.


texts:
I have had issues with noisey drivetrain and inconsistent shifting despite indexing adjustment.
I have found wear on the top jockey wheel cage, is this normal or should the chain not rub here?
Does this indicate a bent derailleur / hanger?


texts:
I'm looking for a new frame. My only requisite is that the frame should be able to take 700x35 wheels (the type of wheel I want).

How can I know if a frame is suitable or not for these kind of wheels?


texts: Torque of the rails or torque of the post?

texts:
I am building a bike and I am  using a saddle with carbon rails on an alloy seatpost. I read that it's not an issue as long as the shape of the clamps is compatible with the shape of the rails, and in my case it is.
However, the torque specified on the rails (6 Nm) and the torque specified on the post (12 Nm ~ 15 Nm) don't have any overlap. Which of the two should I go with?
I am afraid that if I go higher than 6 Nm, it will damage the carbon fiber of the rails, but if I go lower than 12 Nm, the saddle will slip while I ride, and as a consequence will again damage the rails.
Should I ditch the combination all toghether? Or something in the middle, say 9 Nm, is going to work just fine?


texts: When turning cranks backwards, cassette locks up

texts: When I turn my pedals/ cranks the other way, my cassette keeps locking up causing my chain to slacken and I don’t know what’s wrong with it?


texts: What are the axle nut sizes on the brompton?

texts:
What are the exact specifications of the nuts used on the various axles of the Brompton bicycle?

Specifically, I have a 2016 M6R black, but I would appreciate it if you listed the specifications for all models for others as well.

I'm currently bikepacking through South Asia verrry far from a brompton shop. My axle nuts are rounding out, and I'd like to replace them and get some spares as well. Unfortunately, the local shops have nuts too small for my wrench and--worse--I don't know if the threading is slightly off from the axle.

This information was glaringly absent from the specification & schematic docs on the brompton website, but it does mention that the threading may be off between different rear axles, depending on the Sturmey
Archer hub installed:

https://trade.brompton.com/Uploads/QPart/QPart-Datasheets/ds-hubrbits-sa.pdf

Can you please list the nut:

nut size
thread pitch
flat-to-flat width (for wrench size)
pitch-to-pitch width
height
anything else I should know to buy this nut from a third-party


texts: TRP Spyre SLC brakes compatible with other vendors' rotors?

texts: Does anyone know whether TRP Spyre (SLC) mechanical disc brakes can be used with other vendors' 160mm rotors, i.e. the ones for SRAM's HRD brakes?


texts: Chain rattling in lowest gear despite adjustment

texts:
I have bought an 80ies (?) Vicini vintage road bike that I've mostly used on flat terrain so that I haven't used the smallest gear until recently.
I found out that the chain rattles against the front derailleur in the smallest gear. I've loosened the lower adjustment screw as far as it goes and put all the tension from the shifting cable but it still rattles. The FD is installed at the correct height and parallel to the chain. The only possible explanation I can imagine is that the BB isn't wide enough.
It is an old Shimano 105 chainset with frame downtube shifters.


texts:
Today I bled an Avid Elixir 1 after it had gone soft over the winter. I followed the directions in the Park Tools Big Blue Book completely, used an Avid bleed kit and opened a new bottle of DOT 5.1. The bleed went well and the lever had good pressure afterwards.

I went out for a couple of hours and came home and thought the brakes seemed softer. I stood the bike on its rear tyre and pumped the brake 10 times and by the end the lever was against the grip.

I checked both plugs and they seemed to have a good seal.

Any ideas on what I could have done wrong or could be wrong with the brakes to allow significant air into the system?


texts: Consequences of using smaller replacement pulley/jockey wheels in the rear derailleur

texts:
I have a new rear derailleur (Microshift Advent X) which uses somewhat oversized cog wheels with 12 and 14 teeth. I am known to wear these wheels during the winter season, so I am already planning for spare parts.
I have a small stash of smaller 11 teeth pulley/jockey wheels and I wonder if I could install them when the time comes, instead of looking for matching larger spares. The benefits are that the 11-teeth parts are quite more widespread, but what are the possible problems that this could create?
Here are some negative things that I can imagine, but maybe I am missing something or underestimating the consequences.

Clearance problems between pulley/jockey wheels, derailleur cage and chain passing through them. I can imagine that squeezing larger cogs could cause that, but with smaller ones the clearance should increase.

Increased chain friction because of sharper angles when links are wrapping smaller cogs. I could not care less about it. The bulk of my friction problems in that area come from clogged bushings/bearings inside the pulley wheels; something that better seals, not more teeth, should help with.

Change of the optimal chain length. I can imagine that with fewer teeth I'd need to remove a few links from the chain? Or is it the other way around, and the chain must grow?

Worse chain retention (chain jumping inside the derailleur). I wonder if this will be noticeable given how constrained the chain inside the cage is, and with clutched derailleur keeping it tensioned.


texts: Shift Cable for 1963 Schwinn w/Sturmey Archer Shifter

texts:
This is the shifter on my 1963-64 Schwinn Racer:

This is the old cable:

I'd like to replace the cable and found this:

It's hard to tell what the cable ends look like inside the packaging but is anyone familiar with this Schwinn part number and if it's compatible with my shifter? I know there are newer style cables with a loop connecting the adjusting nut (ferrule?) to the hub chain, but I'd like to find the older style if possible.
This is my bicycle. There are many others like it, but this one is mine. My bicycle is my best friend. :-)


texts: There are so many options, mainly because of the own-brand alternatives. So how do I choose a good floor pump? What should I look for?


texts: What advantages are there in mounting a butterfly bar with a drop instead of a rise?

texts:
I own a tourer with a butterfly bar mounted with the near flats rising.  This puts the far flats rising towards the outside of my wrists.  I have, however, seen butterfly bars mounted so that compared to the stem the near flats drop.  This would put my far flats falling towards the outside of my wrists (a position I suspect I may like better.  But I'm having difficulty finding comparative evaluations of mounting butterfly bars in these manners.

Mounted rising: http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/74/22/55522274/photos/velocelestes-R20/R20top.JPG

Mounted dropping: http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/images/flatandtrek.jpg


texts:
I've heard from others that air is what causes sealant to seal. People have said they've read that "somewhere" but I never seem to be able to find those articles.

The reason I think air can't be the sole factor is that there is air inside the tires—in mountain bike tires there is a lot of it. Why wouldn't it just coagulate there? And if you say, well, over time it dries out, that's true—but a puncture doesn't take months to seal.

On top of that, I've accidentally left a bottle of orange sealant with the cap off literally for months, and there was only the barest trace of "rubbery" sealant on the threads of the cap neck.

I imagine this must have something to do with either

the cold produced by the expanding gas coming out of a puncture, or
the low pressure caused by the expanding gas moving rapidly (see
Bernoulli's Principle)
some other unexplained factor.

The reason I want to know is because if I knew the principle behind sealant sealing I might be able to figure out a way to prevent undetectable slow leaks, which I've been getting off and on since I switched to tubeless on my road bike.


texts: I keep getting a lot of pinch flats even though I've pumped my 26x2.00 wheels to 280Kpi (65psi) and I've been thinking about converting to tubeless. But I don't have both tubeless ready tires and rims. What if I buy just the tires but use my current rims, will it work?


texts: Saddle started to hurt after years of riding

texts:
Recently I began having problems with my saddle, or more precisely, my behind. It starts to hurt where my sit bones are after 45-60 minutes. It feels sore at first, but eventually it gets really painful. I've ridden this bike (Trek Madone 5.0) thousands of miles over the past 10 years, but the pain only showed up in the past two or three months. I had a complete professional fitting when I bought this bike. I've changed nothing, and until now it's been perfect. The saddle is the Bontrager Race saddle that came with the bike.
At first I thought it was my shorts. I had some high end shorts that I thought might have worn out, so I got some new shorts that seemed to help at first, but now it's back to the same pain in the same place.
Twenty years ago I was a 10,000 miles a year rider, splitting my time on road and mountain, and I never had this problem. Back then I would be on my saddle for seven hours, and I never had this problem. Today, I'm more like a 3,500 miles per year rider, but I can barely do one hour in my saddle without pain.
I don't have the same pain on my mountain bike, which has a Fizik saddle.
I was looking at new saddles, which might be a solution, but before I do that, I figured I'd seek some advice here. Maybe it's a fit issue? Something changed unknowingly? I know my way around bikes pretty well, but I don't know anything about body mechanics.
Any advice?
Okay, adding some responses to the comments:
The Fizik saddle (MTB) is almost 20 years old. That really surprises me, but it's a 2001 Santa Cruz Superlight, so it must be. That bike still feels new to me! That's not the problematic saddle, however. The Bontrager saddle on the Madone is.
I have lost 15-20 pounds in the last year or so. I thought that might have something to do with it. That I might have less "padding" on my rear, but would that last 2 months? I should have adjusted by now. I'm riding four to five days a week now.
I did a quick check of the saddle. There is nothing obvious that is cracked or broken. Bolts are tight. I twisted and pulled it, but I can't get it to move.
I think the solution is to get a new saddle.


texts:
My bike has a hanger like this:

Since the nut acts as a spacer between the end of the dropout and the hub, it's quite hard to center the wheel. What kind of spacer/accessory can be mounted on the other side so that you can just pull the wheel and it would be aligned when it hits the spacer and the hanger? The dropouts don't have adjustment screws.


texts: Should I replace my disk brake calipers?

texts:
I have a pair of Shimano Deore BR-M615s on my mountain bike with about 3,000 miles and 5 years on them. Lately I've noticed that both brakes have too long of "pull" before providing braking. That is, the distance from when I start to pull the lever to when the pads engage feels too long, perhaps 3/4s of an inch or so. The braking power after the pads are applied seems fine. I think the pads and rotors are within spec.
When I remove the wheel and pads, "exercise" the pistons, and clean/lube with mineral oil, the pistons are quite finicky. Sometimes only one moves, other times after some the fidgeting, only the other piston will move. One piston does not return all the way back into the caliper (perhaps 1/2 millimeter protrudes). Sometimes the pistons are cock-eyed, extending from the caliper at an angle. Sometimes I notice air bubbles in the lube oil between the pistons and the caliper. It's difficult to get both pistons extending evenly from the caliper. After some fidgeting, I can improve the "pull" distance, but as the pads wear I have to fidget more.
I am considering replacing the calipers with the BR-M6000, but wanted some input before pulling the trigger. What makes the most sense to try next? Overhaul the current brakes? New calipers? New levers, hoses, and calipers? Live with the fidgeting?


texts: Can you attach front panniers to shocks?

texts:
I'm going on a bike trip and need the extra storage supplied by front panniers. But my bike has front suspension. I can replace the fork with a solid one but that will increase my costs. Is it
A) possible,
B) a good idea,
to attach panniers to forks w suspension?


texts: Replace Brompton folding pedal - what tool is needed?

texts:
I've managed to completely break the folding left-hand pedal on my Brompton.  The bit where it fastens onto the crank* is fine, but the rest of it gone.

What tool(s) do I need to remove the broken pedal and fit a new one?

I'm asking this because I want to compare the price of doing it myself (pedal + tools) to the price of getting my local Brompton dealer to do it (pedal + labor + loss of self-respect).

Thanks.

*Please forgive me if my terminology is terribly wrong! :o


texts: What is the men's version of Trek Lexa SLX

texts: Trek used to make only "WSD" versions of the same model names sold "for men."  But things aren't that simple anymore!  What's the men's version of the Lexa SLX?


texts:
I use my hybrid bike for commuting and casual trips, and comfort is important to me.  I am therefore looking to upgrade my handlebar to the bullhorn type, as this greatly increases comfort and reduces strain on my wrists. However, well-made handlebars can be quite costly, and I see that "extension grips" exist that can just be put on a regular handlebar.

Obviously the handlebars need to be trustworthy, and not be prone to "slip" as I put my weight on it. Can the less expensive extension grips do the job, or should I opt for a whole new handlebar? I value comfort and safety more than price, but if all else is equal, price triumphs, obviously. The kind of extension grips I am looking at are attached at the bottom of this question.

If I opted for a whole new handlebar, I would still need to get one of these ergonomic grips for the horn-part of the handlebar, as the handlebars sold seem to mostly just be the metal bar itself. So I am leaning toward just getting grips to equip on my current handlebar, provided that they last and are safe to use.

So, will such handlebar grips provide me with long and safe service, or is really a whole new handlebar the only way to go? Preferably I want something that can be re-used when I someday buy a new bike.

Source: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/ergon-gp5-grips/rp-prod35359


texts: Roadbike with aluminium wheels in mountains. Is it safe?

texts:
I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.

I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?

I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(

I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.


texts: Bicycle Trailer pulls back wheel sideways

texts:
I have 2 bikes. A touring bike and a mountain bike. The touring bike pulls my 40 lb daughter, snacks, and water just fine (with a Burley classic hitch). The mountain bike on the other hand pulls for about a mile then the front of the tire starts to cant to the right, eventually rubbing on the frame. This used to happen on my old univega mountain bike when pulling my son.
Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this or why it is happening? Is it because my touring bike is designed to pull a heavier load? Thanks in advance!


texts: Can I replace 1 inch threaded fork by a 1 inch threadless one?

texts:
I have a road cycle with a 1 inch threaded fork. I wish to replace the fork in order to allow larger tires on this bike, but will have to replace the fork.
I find in some shops 1 inch threadless forks. Is it possible to adapte this kind of fork (I guess I will have to change the fork bearings, and stem, too).


texts:
I want to 2x check within the community if I got it right the compatibility question between Shimano components.

I have an old (~2006) Sora groupset on my bike (2x8 speed). I upgraded last year to Claris ST-2400 brake lever set (it is for 3x8 but with proper tuning can be used with 2x8).

Now I have to change my crankset Sora FC-3301 175mm/52x39. I'm not 100% sure, but the Claris FC-2450 seems to be compatible.

both FC-3301 and FC-2450 are for 2x8 derailleur (what I have);
both use Octalink axle profile, the FC-2450 needs Octalink V2 but for the old FC-3301 couldn't find what Octalink version is compatible with. However, for both the BB-ES25 bottom bracket is recommended (what I have currently). So I suppose V2 is ok;
both have 175mm arm length versions.

Did I miss something?
Is FC-2450a compatible replacement for the FC-3301?

If I understand well, the higher class Shimano groupset technologies are propagated to the lower class group set while time passes, so like in my case the old Sora set now is compatible with the Claris set, but not compatible with the new Sora set, right?

UPDATE

A cheaper solution would be if I change only the chainrings.
But I have no idea if a 2x10 ring set with the same number of teeth (52 and 39) and the same bolt circle (130mm) is compatible with my old chainrings for a 2x8.
for example: Shimano Ultegra 6700 Road Chainring 2x10-speed

I aks the only support at bike-components and they think is ok the FC6700 chain ring.


texts: Fixing broken STI shifters - plastic gear cable surround

texts:
As pictured, after knocking over the bike I've broken one of the plastic surrounds where the gear cable enters the front derailleur shifter. Shifting between the lower two chainrings still works, but when trying to shift to the outer ring, the cable tension is sufficient to pull the cable into the crack/gap and prevent the shift.

Is there any way to repair this, or have I written off an entire set of STI shifters? Do Shimano sell spare parts for their STI levers? (If not I'm thinking of going to bar-end shifters if STIs are so fragile!)


texts: Crank removal tool broke. Before I buy another, what did I do wrong?

texts:
In my (first) attempt to remove the crank arms from a bike, I broke the crank puller (Super B TB-6485). I applied more force than I was comfortable with, thinking the threads had perhaps rusted over time. When attaching the puller to the crank, I pulled back the driver a fair bit from the coupler, screwed in the coupler, tightened it lightly with a spanner, and then proceeded to turn the driver down as far as I could. I then applied as much pressure as I could, and I heard it snap. Uncoupled everything, and the two bits seen in images 1-3 fell to the ground.

What did I do wrong here? Can the tool be used without the parts that fell out? Should I have removed them beforehand? I'm honestly a little confused as to their function.

Thanks in advance. Images below.


texts: Buying new thru axle road wheels - What do I need to know?

texts:
I got a crazy good deal on a 2018 Cannonade Synapse - So much so I didn't pay attention to it having huge wheels/tires (21c rims and 30mm tires) until I got home. So now I want to swap out the wheels so I can run smaller tires.

Iv'e never dealt with a thru axle before - What do I need to know when buying wheels?

The axle has a lot of numbers on it
Rear: 17 L4 QR51X-12-160-P1.0-16.5
Front: 17 L1 RQ51M-12-125-p1.5-10

Other than knowing it is a 12mm axle, do I need to pay any attention to anything else? Didn't know if there was a width measurement or anything I needed to deal with.

Would I just use the axles that came on the bike with different wheels, or will I need to buy new axles?


texts: Disadvantages of run 650B wheelset on a 29'er

texts:
I am in need of a new wheel set for my 29'er, and wondering if 650B's are an option. My current bike handles more like a supertanker than a bike. Great for straight lines once up to speed, but if there is a corner, watch out...  The 650's are supposed to more responsive than the 29er and roll better than the 26". Additionally my wife rides a 650B, so we would be able to reduce pare tubes and tires.

Bike has disc brakes so that is not a problem.

Apart from lower BB, hence increased risk of pedal strike, if I were to put 650's on my bike, what disadvantages would I have.


texts:
I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about about  Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.


texts: Role of the part situated below the pedals?

texts: I'm wondering what's the role of the plastic/metallic part situated below the pedals on the image below taken from a road bike?


texts: Which chain should I use for Rex Touring with 5 gears?

texts:
The bike is about 15 years old. The size of tyre is probably 28.

I want to change the old chain.
I am not sure which chain I can put to the bike.

Does any chain which length is enough for 28 fit my bike?


texts: Good substitutes for WD-40 in emergency situation?

texts:
I broke my bike in a poor location where I can only find poor rusted bikes. I am switching to one bike with rusted screws, I am trying to get things such as touring back rack and water-bottle holders to the new bike. I cannot find WD-40 here to take the screw out. The comment here speculates Kerosene and Naptha as the ingredients of WD-40.

So how can I substitute the WD-40?
How can I find some physical way to remove the rusted screws in the bike?

Edit: I have solved the problem with time and Coca Cola in one screw. I let the screw to be 2 hours in Coca Cola and I got it off later. I am still unsure whether this is the best solution, at least it tastes good and it is easily available. More this kind of solutions?

I have a multitool with a file, saw and knives.


texts: Sorry  I am new in bicycling , but I think  the head is least like to be in contact with any other things during crash normally down from head rather the head might come in contact in other vectors . So I am curious how effective bicycle helmates are .


texts: Can I use microshift bar end shifters with 9-speed deore lx rear derailleur and 10-speed cassette?

texts: Can I use indexed 10-speed microshift bar end shifters (on retroshift levers) with 9-speed deore lx rear derailleur and 10-speed 11-36 cassette? If not, What rear derailleur would work with the microshift shifters in indexed mode with this cassette?


texts: Plastic insert damaged when tried to open gravity wheelguard ixow

texts: Can anyone tell me where I can find to buy the plastic insert from the wheelguard?


texts: The chains of my bike are clicking and the gear don't work anymore

texts: I have had a bike a couple of years and I noticed that my gears broke pretty often. I bought a new one but now that one is breaking too. They are skipping and clicking and I have brought them to different bike repairers so if anyone knows what the deal is with the gears let me know.


texts: Tire size / rear dropout incompatibility?

texts:
Recently my commuter bike (cannondale quick 5) was stolen, so I decided to get an old road bike off of craigslist - a '91 specialized sirrus triple.  The guy I bought it from had bought it new, used it for about a decade, then hung it up in his garage until this past month. I took it in to REI for a tune-up and some new tires and asked if they could put on tires with a bit more traction, knowing that I'm accustomed to my commuter bike and probably wouldn't do too well with slick tires.

When they put on the new tires (I'm not talking knobby mountain bike, just a little bit of tread - Michelin City tires) they had me sign off that the change in tire size meant the rear wheel would have to not be completely in the dropout - currently it's about halfway in the dropouts and has scant 1/8" clearance from the rear brake assembly; if it was all the way in the dropout it would have no clearance whatsoever.

Is this (the rear wheel not being completely in the dropout) ridiculously unsafe?  I've never had to deal with this before, but it seems like this would be ridiculously unsafe.


texts: Disk brakes swap on a new road bike with rim brakes

texts:
I am planning on buying an Atomic Covert road bike.
Can I put disk brakes on it? Are there adapters for rigid forks/road bikes or do I need to replace parts?


texts: Do we know this type/brand/model of vintage bicycle?

texts: JUNIOR (MADE IN AUSTRIA) AND THE FRAME SAYS ''JUNIOR FLIPPER''


texts:
I've found some manufacturers have front-only or rear-only tire models. What is the actual difference between front and rear tires? Why specific tire supposed to be used only on front/rear wheel?

UPDATE

Very good answer to my question can be found here: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/21613/4114


texts:
I am a big dude, I weigh 250 lbs, and I kill bikes.

The best thing I have found so far is putting 12 gauge spokes on my Mt. Bike, which has reduced the number of spoke I break monthly.

I have a Cannodale Adventure 5, and I destroyed the rear wheel in February.  Anyhow, it had 700c wheels, and I want to replace the 700c wheel with another, but with 12 gauge spokes.

I've been to 2 bike shops, and they seem confused, asking questions like

how did it break,
how many spokes do I break in a year?
do I have them fixed?
why do things wear out so fast for me?

... which all comes back to being a big dude putting loads of miles on a bike.

They want to know more pertinent things too, like freewheel or cassette, and type of rim. Which the answer is I don't think I care. Then they ask other questions like what the wheel spacing is, and I have no idea what that even means.

So, what details do I need to be able to replace a wheel for a frame which I do not have the original wheel to?

What details should I consider to get a sturdy wheel for someone of my girth?


texts: Saddle for long rail trails, streets and dirt paths

texts:
I recently purchased a 2014 HardRock Sport Disc.

I ride on a variety of road surfaces, including pavement, gravel and dirt.

I don't currently have plans to race, do long touring rides, or rough technical trails.

I am riding mostly for fitness, and doing rides up to 40 miles (65 km)

Specialized has a "Help Me Choose a Saddle" section on the website, but I am not sure how I fit their categories.

I would consider me Fitness/Recreational, but according to the website that's more people who do short rides.

Also I would think that road saddles would have more cushion since your sitting on them for long extended periods compared to a mountain saddle when you're standing up off the saddle more, but it seems to be the opposite.

That is, road saddles tend to have the least cushion.

When I did 25 miles (40 km) on the rail trail I wasn't tired but my toosh was extremely sore during and afterwards. To note I'm using the standard saddle that came with my bike which does not feel cushiony at all to me so I would assume I would want something with more cushion. But the ones with the most cushion seem to be not recommended for roads.

Gel seems very appealing to me but have heard negatives about that as well.

Can someone recommend what saddle(s) might be best for me? I'm fine with $40 to $100 US Dollars price range (less of course better if possible) and I'm a 26 male 5'9'' (175cm) around 160 pounds (72 kilograms) if that affects the recommendation.

To note the Milano Sport Gel looks like one option. The Targa description looks more like me but without gel it doesn't look like it would be much more comfortable/cushiony than the standard saddle I have now.


texts:
Ok I have a number of variables at play here and I'm trying to obtain the best chain line possible this is on my polo bike so not super important but if there is a way I can do it I'm willing to put the effort into it.

Being a polo bike it is treated as a single speed and with my setup I've strived to created a more functional polo bike with a 2 cog freewheel. Hence I can ride my bike to the court on my commuter gear, take a 15mm wrench out of my bag slam the wheel and use my polo gear on the same freewheel.

rear hub is a Primo son of a bomb which I believe is 120mm spaced with a 2 speed suntour freewheel.

My rear track ends are 135mm.

Up front is a deore triple crank with a rageface 32tooth (74BCD) chain ring on the utmost inner ring. I had to space this out away from the crank spider with 2mm chain bolt spacers to stop the master link rubbing. The chainring as about 5-7mm of space between it and the chainstay.

Current BB (unsure)

So with all these metrics is it possible for me to workout a BB length and rear spacer set to get a straight chainline?


texts:
Here's my setup:

It runs great. But the chain is a little rusty. I measure the chain wear and it looks like about 1/32 of an inch over 12 inches. So not much, right? But chains are cheap so I try a new chain. The new chain "clicks" at the chainring, especially under high torque. I can feel it in the pedals.

I would think I am perhaps due for a new chainring and rear sprocket, but neither appear that worn:

But the new chain "clicks" and that does not inspire confidence under high torque, and is annoying, so I put the rusty chain back on and all is well. What gives?

Possibly relevant: The new chain sat in the its package for at least 12 months. I rode maybe a mile or two with the new chain and the clicking before switching back to the old chain. The old and new chain are both KMC 8 speed chains.


texts:
In this question I have seen a number of answers/comments mentioning hand signals to notify traffic/cyclists behind you ahead of braking.

I have never seen anything similar in Europe (at least where I was cycling so far). We signal left/right for turns, changing lanes, overtaking - basically the same as cars (or we should, that is). I have not yet seen any kind of pendant to a cars brake lights.

Is signalling before braking a thing which is done in the US/Canada (this was the context of the above question)?
Is signalling before braking considered safe/advisable? (In the light of: you're warning those behind you but you yourself are braking one-handed.)

The way I see it you mostly need two hands on the bar for any kind of sharp braking, and light breaking should pose no problems for those driving behind you. Unless, maybe, if they're drafting (which makes them idiots if they do it in traffic). Also sharp breaking is generally called for in time-critical situations where you don't have seconds to waste for signalling.

This question is distinct from Hand signalling whiled decelerating, which covers left/right signalling while being forced to decelerate (e.g. at the bottom of a hill).


texts:
I have 2 unused rim strips. Along the edges and on the surface there are brown marks (patches, streaks, blotches).

2 images (I cannot improve the resolution)

Observations

Both strips were stored hanging vertically (i.e. not folded nor rolled up).
When I place the 2 strips over each other, I see that the edge marks overlap, i.e. the strips have the same brown edge marks in the same positions.
Overall the rim strip is smooth. The material is not brittle. There are no scratches nor nicks.
Seems like the brown color has steeped into the plastic.
The size written on the rim tape: 32 559
There is a number which looks like a manufacture date: 06/05
Manufacturer: Schwalbe

Questions

Is this rim strip beyond its use-by-date, i.e. if I use it will it need to be replaced soon?
Perhaps an alternative question: what does a rim strip look like when it is in need of replacement?


texts: How should I negotiate price with bicycle salespeople?

texts:
Aside from just knowing the best time to make the purchase of your bike, what other specific tactics can I make use of in negotiating price on a bike? For instance, what devalues a bike aside from just wear and tear, and how can I use these to get a better price on a bike?

Note:
I appreciate all the comments about LBS and local patronage of merchants is something we can all support. However, like going to buy a car, there are always things to know about a product that (when negotiating) play in the favor of merchants (overvalues the car: like when you had to get on a waiting list to get a Prius) and in the favor of buyers (devalues: when you had to be wary of your gas pedal buying a Prius). This is a question to benefit buyers of bikes.


texts: New bottom bracket and crankset - what spindle length?

texts:
I have a bike that I'm doing up as a project and I need to replace the bottom bracket (old-school square taper). Since the front chainring (single, 46 teeth, riveted) is pretty badly worn I was going to take the opportunity and replace that as well. But what to get as replacement?

At the back I've got a 6-speed freewheel with a chain line of 38 mm. The bike is nothing special, it's more for fun and the learning experience (my first project..), so I'd like to keep the costs down. I was looking at some budget cranksets on ebay but most of them don't specify what kind of bottom bracket length to use. How do I find a crankset/bottom bracket combination that will work and also give me a narrow enough chain line? Is it just a matter of trial and error (that could get quite expensive if I'm unlucky I guess..) or is there something I should look out for?

I found a cheap one that for a change specified BB and chain line: 131 mm BB and 50 mm chain line.
https://www.rosebikes.com/article/m-wave-single-crankset/aid:485066
Can I just use a shorter BB to get a narrower chain line or will that not fit? Do you know of a combination that could work?

Thanks a lot!


texts: What is an asymmetric wheel and why would you use it?

texts:
Campagnolo advertises the Khamsin Asymmetric Wheel:

What is an asymmetric wheel and (given that we expect wheels to be symmetrical), why would one want an asymmetrical one? How is it related to dish?


texts: My husband is a beginner in cycling and needs some motivation

texts:
My husband is 40 now. He used to ride a bicycle till he was 15. But now he wants to start cycling. We bought a mountain bike and he started cycling. First day he just managed to ride 4 Kilometers. Some part of the road was sloping too. He was having trouble while climbing slopes.

Do you think 4 Kms distance is good for beginner at this age. How to motivate him to continue even if it is a small distance is covered? Is it normal for beginner to feel tired for the first day?

Update : My Husband has managed to travel 6 Kms to his office in the morning without any rest, but slowly, and returned 6 Kms back in the evening. Thank you all for your motivation.


texts: How can I mount a 25.4 mm seat-post on a frame that needs a 27.2 mm seat-post

texts: My bike has no rear suspension. So I thought of putting a suspension seat-post on it. Unfortunately the only suspension post available in my city is a 25.4 mm one. I have added some scrap metal to fix it for now. But it's still a little wobbly. What is the best way to do this ?


texts: Where can i find a replacement for the metal part (at the end of the 24 inch hose) that clamps around the valve stem, for an old Schwinn floor pump (30 years?)?