texts: Ways to lock my feet to the pedals, OR, Cycling shoe options for (really) wide feet

texts:
I have very wide feet, like ridiculously wide. I found some data for Australian male foot sizes and I'm at the 80th percentile for length but the 99.7th percentile for width. I'm currently wearing shoes a size too long in extra extra wide, and they're still barely wide enough.

I've been road cycling for a while now, and I'm starting to take it seriously (looking for a club to join). I would like to be able to lock my feet into the pedals, but I don't know where to start. Old school around-the-toe straps are difficult because my regular shoes are too long, and as you might have guessed, off the shelf cycle shoes (at least the few that I've tried) aren't designed with someone like me in mind.

What options are there to lock my feet to the pedals so I can practice optimal pedaling technique? Some kind of shoes+clipless pedals approach is clearly the most common way to deal with this, but I'm willing to look at some more unusual or exotic solutions, whether that relates to the shoes, the pedals, straps, anything. Ideally with some kind of quick release mechanism because I'll be on the road.

As far as shoes go, this question is very similar, but it's over 9 years old and the linked pages don't exist any more. Plus, 9 years is plenty of time for more options to become available.


texts: Shimano BR-T4000 not compatible with frame pivot stud

texts:
I tired to replace v-brakes on my random cheap frame as spring regulation things started to fall apart. For replacement I picked front+rear set of Shimano BR-T4000 v-brakes because v-brakes are so simple and compatible with each other, right?

New vs five year old no-name part

pivot boss/stud(?)

shallow hole (about half of old ones depth) in new brakes prevent them from fully setting in, which also causes that spring spike(?) to only go halfway in

and stud is not reaching all the way through its slot (lacks ~5mm)

Fork is aluminium (or at least not reacting to magnets). Pivot stud is steel, but does not seem wrench-friendly as thick part is oval instead of segmented. Random old non-name v-brakes I somehow had on shelf are perfect match, and all around Internet I only see studs same as one I have.

Are new brakes broken/malformed/fake? Get another brakes? Use adapter part? Or should I just get new fork with replaceable studs?

Edit:

When compared with clean classic cheap v-brakes difference in depth is more visible:

Length of bore in oldies is ~2cm while new ones are ~2.5cm, wider part is respectively ~6mm vs ~3mm.

(yes yes, got new cables as well :)


texts: Can I use a Sora rear derailleur with my 7 speed shifter?

texts: Since the only problems cames from my Tourney rear derailleur. I want to change it to a Shimano Sora derailleur, but, I don't want to change the shifter, I'm ok with 7. Would a Sora rear derailleur work with a Tourney 7 speed shifter?


texts: Can Park Tool CG-2.2 kit work with the bike upside down?

texts:
I've recently acquired a new bicycle with coaster brake and internally geared hub.

Naturally, I'd like the bike to last as long as possible. Unfortunately, the local weather seems to be stuck in "eternal autumn" mode, with rains at least twice a day every day, low temperatures and salt on the roads. Local terrain produces lots of mud and some sand as well. All this produces quite a bit of dirt on the chain, which I'd like to get rid of. Unfortunately, I don't really have any space for a workshop, where I could remove the chain and clean it properly, so I was thinking of getting say Park Tool CG-2.2 kit and using that to get rid of some of the grime. In the instruction manual for CM-5.2, it says that the bicycle should be pedaled in reverse during the cleaning procedure. This seems impossible with a coaster brake, so this leads me to my question:

Can I just turn the bicycle upside-down, so that wheels are pointing up, and then use the CM-5.2 by pedaling forward?


texts:
It is a Bosch powerpack 500 and the other day it stopped charging.

The charger seems to have some output since one of the LEDs on the battery lights up. It is only one LED though and I believe I remember the other LEDs (in the column of LEDs) light up in a fashion when charging.
I only measure 5V of output from the charger which might, or might not mean something. The charger can be so cunning as to output only a low voltage until it has found out a proper Bosch battery is attached and is ready to be charged.

I have tried taking the battery out of the charger and depress the button for 10 seconds as I have been told it resets the battery but to no avail.
I have unplugged the charger, waited for some time, and replugged.
Nothing is running hot, not battery nor charger.

I am taking both battery and charger back to the shop but before that, is there another trick or check?

For future reference I add what has happened so far:
The dealer has software with a license dongle s/he had to buy from Bosch. S/he connected a computer and saw some logs about the battery being too hot (I am certain it has not been) or cold (inprobable) and it being bricked due to hardware failure.
S/he saved the log and then resetted the battery. I can now use the battery again. Bosch has commented the error log with "no danger".
So Bosch bricked my (very expensive) battery without any reason and then forced me (the dealer) to pay for a solution. That is not serious business.


texts: What's the story of Shimano PD-T780 Deore XT Pedals?

texts:
I've seen these alleged XT group pedals on several web sites, but they aren't on Shimano's site. The "PD-T780 Deore XT Pedal" is sold at Arts Cyclery (http://www.artscyclery.com/), Amazon, and REI, but at none of my usual online bike retailers.

It's odd for an XT product -- it's a dual purpose flat/SPD pedal.

Was it an old product that's no longer sold? Could it be a counterfeit? (If so, weird that REI would sell it.)

From http://www.artscyclery.com/Shimano_PD-T780_XT_2-Way_Pedals/descpage-SHT78PD.html


texts: Shimano RS785 hydraulic disc brake caliper will not reset

texts:
Brand new RS685 lever and RS785 calipers.  I installed the front with no trouble.  Shortened line, bled, ready to go.  The rear, however, was a problem.  I shortened and bled the line same as the front.  The first pull of the lever felt normal and came about half way to the handlebar.  The lever would reset but the caliper would not.  I had to wait about 4-5 seconds as the caliper slowly reset allowing another lever pull.

I have extensive wrenching experience and have used hydraulic brakes for a long time without ever seeing this issue.

Air in the line?  I bled the system again.  Same result.

Sticky caliper?  Unlikely as they are new but possible so I pushed the pistons out ~4mm, wiped them and lubed them with mineral oil.  Reset the pistons.  Bled the line.  Same result.  Lever pulled in but caliper would not reset.

Now I totally purged the line.  Drained the oil and injected brand new oil from the caliper bleed port up to the lever.  Problem was I had to push on the syringe with ~30 pounds of force to get the oil flowing up to the lever.  This is not normal.

Clogged line?  Seemed to flow from lever to caliper but not caliper to lever.  I detached the line from the lever and pushed oil from the caliper up through the line with no trouble.  No excessive force needed.

Bad lever?  Each pull and release of the lever rest quickly and oil level rose and dropped at the now exposed connection port just as I expected.

Called several local shops and best suggestion I got was that the tension spring on the brake pads could be too weak.  So I switched the front and rear springs.  No change.

The original line as it arrived from Shimano was mounted to the caliper and had a barb installed at the lever end but not connected to the lever.  The barb had some kind of white seal over it apparently to keep the prefilled oil in the line.  Looks sort of like white Teflon tape.  The front line had the same thing on it.  It was extremely thin and appears intended to simply burst open after installation allowing oil to flow through the line.  This mysterious white seal is not mentioned anywhere in the installation guides I read.

When I pushed oil up through the line with a syringe I could see a little flap of the white sealing material flop open and closed like a heart valve.  My theory is that this little flap was able to open back into the line allowing oil flow toward the caliper when the lever was pulled.  But it could not as easily open toward the lever when the caliper tried to reset the line.  This only occurred when the line was attached at the lever.

I replaced the entire rear hose with a new kit including new connecting bolt, olives and barbs (part SM-BH59-JK-SS).  This had no little white seals on the barbs.  Refilled and bled the line (again).  Perfect.  Brakes work just as they should.

This was an incredibly frustrating issue and perhaps my experience can save someone else a bit of heart ache.

If anyone has another theory as to what caused this I'd like to hear it.  But replacing the hose fixed my problem.


texts: Shimano Deore SL-M590 shifter lever stuck

texts:
I have the Shimano Deore SL-M590 9-speed shifter, bought new and used for about 3 years. On my ride today, the upshift lever got permanently stuck forcing me to complete my ride in the lowest gear. I took the covers off and removed the cable, but it is still stuck. It is well lubricated.
Is the mechanism repairable? Is it worth disassembling it any further, or should I just buy a replacement? I can spend an hour fixing it, but a longer repair is not worth the time for me.
BTW, which other Shimano models are compatible with SL-M590? I don't care about 2 steps upshifting (Rapidfire?), in fact I would rather not have it. My setup at the rear is 9-speed Deore-XT with RD-M760 derailleur and CS-M760 cassette, I think.


texts: Specialized frame warranty - cracked Alu seat tube

texts:
I have a Specialized Allez Sport 2012. Which I purchased, new, just under 6 years ago in the UK. The aluminium frame has developed a crack in the seat tube, just above the brazed on derailleur mount.

I note the newer models of this bike have reverted to a band on front mech mount. Is this because cracks like mine are common, possibly caused by a recognized design flaw?

Whilst I understand aluminium frames have a fatigue problem it isn't the type of crack I would expect to see. The bike has done just under 10,000 miles.

Am I likely to get a replacement frame under the lifetime frame warranty. If so how long is it likely to take?


texts: I bought a new bike a couple of months ago. Recently I noticed that the bottom bracket is getting loose. It is regularly unscrewing itself, and while I can screw it back in partially manually, I cannot generate enough torque to get in back in there all the way in. What tool should I use to do this? I have found some 8-notch bottom bracket tools, but they would require removing the cranks, and I'm not sure that they're the correct thing anyway.


texts: Can I fit larger rotors on a Surly Karate Monkey fork?

texts:
I have a Surly Karate Monkey fork that has 160mm rotors.

I'd like to upgrade to Clarks M2 brakes with 180mm rotors.

How can I tell if those calipers/rotors will fit my fork?


texts: Would it be better to fly with my full-size road bike or rent at the destination?

texts:
I'm trying to weigh whether to fly from Ireland with my full-size road bike during my vacation in Italy or to rent at the destination. Can you give me some rough sense of the costs involved and how I might come to a decision?

Would it make a difference if I flew from the USA?


texts:
Typical situation.  Derailleur goes into a wheel (for whatever reason) and rear derailleur cage is bent.  If you were a customer would you rather have the derailleur replaced and know it is fixed, OR have a mechanic attempt to repair it by bending it back or replacing the cage and accept the problem may not be fixed the first time?

Yes, the replacement is more expensive, but is a sure fix.  Replacing parts or manual adjustment may be cheaper, but introduces doubt into the repair and in all likelihood may work in the shop only to fail in use.  Then a customer would return, upset the repair failed.

My stance is replace it and remove all doubt.  Been asked as a mechanic to "make do" one time too often and want some outside input.

Repair or replace?


texts:
I have a little bit of a unique question here.
Does anyone know of a cycling crash that was caused due to the cyclist drinking out of his/her water bottle?


texts: Does anyone know this brand? I’ve never heard about and couldn’t find anything on Google

texts: It says “PRIMA CYCLE” but I’m not sure its the name of the brand. Any Idea?


texts: Can you interchange a FC7710 Octalink drive side crank arm with a FC7701 Octalink crank

texts: I want to change to a 165 mm crank length on the drive side of my Dura Ace Octaplus FC7703 triple chain set. Can I use a drive side Dura Ace Octalink FC7710 track crank to do this? Are the two crank sets compatible? Thanks


texts: How to install rear rack & fenders on a vintage road bike

texts:
How feasible is it to install a rear rack and fenders on common vintage road bike frames (e.g. Peugeot PX-8, Raleigh Record/Super Course etc.), and how can it be done, exactly?-- on my "true" randonneur from Motobecane (which is now sadly dead), the frame had eyelets to allow a rack to be installed:

However, on some other bikes, the rear rack is merely "clamped" onto the frame:

Considering that e.g. a Raleigh Super Course doesn't have eyelets for a rear rack, would it then be possible to install a rack via this latter "clamp" method? Would it be able to hold a proper amount of weight, e.g. 20kg? Likewise, how would one put fenders on such a bike (if this is indeed possible)?


texts: Chain slips on low and high gear and sometimes when putting some strain into it

texts:
I have been running an 8 speed cassette/freewheel, don't which cuz I never checked before it seized the other day.I was using it with a 7 speed shifter, not ideal I know but it worked OK just used 7 of the 8 cogs.

As mentioned above, the other day my cassette/freewheel seized. I had a spare back wheel with a 9 speed cassette on it (I learnt how to check yesterday) so I whacked that on and thought I could just use 7 of the 9 cogs. The chain now slips at both high and low end and sometimes when putting extra strain on it.

So my question is, what did I do wrong and what do I need to do to correct it please? Btw the rear derailleur is an 8 speed and the crank set is 3 rings, if that helps any.

Thanks in advance XD


texts: replacing stolen rear wheel. compatability question

texts: I recently had my rear wheel stolen, it was a 7 speed. In looking to replace it, most cassette/wheel combos I am finding are 8 speed. The shifters are old suicide shifters and the deralier is congruent with them, so I imagine as long as the cassette is the same gear or higher (7/8) Ill be ok.. True?


texts:
My bike is making this very weird sound. It’s kinda dull I can feel sort of vibration when pedalling. It gets worse going uphill I think. Please check the video to hear it.

https://streamable.com/tg3zkx

Does anyone know what that might be? I’ve tried tightening everywhere, greasing it up but it is getting kinda worse.

Thanks a lot!

More vids: now it’s making a complete difference sound.
https://streamable.com/c2htm2


texts: Are Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket spacers unique?

texts: I'm moving my Shimano Hollowtech II XT crankset and bottom bracket over from a bike with 73mm bottom bracket to a 68mm bike. The only problem is that I only have 1 spacer and now I need 3 bottom bracket spacers.  Do Shimano external bottom brackets have a unique spacer or can I just use any bottom bracket spacers of the correct diameter and thickness?


texts: Tubeless road wheels won't pump past 80 psi

texts:
I bought new Bontrager Aeolus XXX TLR Tubeless Road wheel set and had them put together by A Trek bike shop. They supposedly put in the right amount of sealant but when I pump them up past 80 PSI they immediately decompress back down to about 80 PSI . I rode them at the 80 PSI and they felt good but the rear tire down to 40 PSI at end of 60 miles.

One thing I worry about was the bike shop guy insisted on putting the O-ring on the valve even though the instructions specifically said to remove the o-ring for road tires. The reason I took it to the bike shop was I couldn't get either tire to seat.

I was going to add more sealant but didn't know how much to add since I know there is some already in there and didn't want to deflate the wheel fearing the bead would fall off.


texts:
Whenever I'm exploring a new bike route or climbing a steep hill, I often need to get of the road and onto the pavement to avoid motorists, pushing my bike on the pavement until I feel it is appropriate to join the road again. I look left and right for passing cars, but I feel that I might be doing something wrong.

Is there a  signal I should use when I wish to join the road and is there anything else I must take into consideration regarding how and where I alight?


texts:
I recently had a rim failure, my LBS is offering me a ceramic rim.

Assuming I go for that; I currently have KoolStop salmon brake shoes. I see they make those in green specially for ceramics.

Can I keep my salmon shoes and get a set of greens for next shoe-change? or do I need to get the green asap?


texts: Route between Durham, NC and Carrboro, NC?

texts:
I've been googling around (Strava, mapmyride, local bike shops) and I couldn't find a recommended bike route between Durham and Carrboro (or Chapel Hill for that matter). If google map's suggestion is the best, that's fine, but it would be helpful for someone whose done it to corroborate.

Thanks.


texts: Shifter cable cut deep groove into the rear derailleur casing

texts:
I have an old Shimano RD-M760 DEORE XT Rear Derailleur, where shifter cable cut a deep groove into the guiding steel tube. Here is a picture:

Is that tube replaceable? I think that groove is a contributing factor to too much friction in the cable system, which makes downshifting sluggish or skipping gears.
EDIT
Here is a wide angle picture to make my description more clear. The shifter is in the lowest gear (largest sprocket):

and a closeup with adjusting barrel and the cable removed:

The tube with a groove cut into it, is not a back end of the adjusting barrel, it is a separate part. I don't see a way to easily remove it, but it does rotate in place. Maybe I should rotate it 180 degrees, so the cable doesn't sink into the groove anymore. OTOH, the groove is so smooth and nicely shaped as if it is a part of the design. Is it, though?
EDIT 2
It seems that the groove is not a part of the original design. Here is a picture of an old Shimano RD-M760 from Ebay, showing just a slight indentation on this part nowhere near the depth I have on mine:


texts: I biked to school today with my bike in perfect condition. Locked it up and went to class. When I went to my bike a couple hours later, the derailleur was bent out of position. My bike's front gear was at 3, but the derailleur was forced to the first/smallest sprocket. Now I can't shift gears on my front wheel as the derailleur won't move. Is this fixable? Or do I need to buy a new derailleur. If it's fixable, would it be difficult for me to do it myself out should I simply take it to a shop?


texts:
I have a Mavic Open Pro rim in 700 diameter.

The manufacturer recommends tire widths between 19 and 28 mm : http://www.mavic.com/en/product/rims/road-triathlon/rims/Open-Pro

How strict is this recommendation?
Could I fit a 30mm wide tire on that rim despite the fact that 30 > 28?


texts:
I left my mountain bike hanging from the front tire for a long time. Now my front shock is seized. What should I do to fix the shock? I'm considering spraying it with WD-40, but I'm not sure if that will further damage the shock.

I can attach a picture of my shock if that would be helpful. The shock is close to 20 years old too if that matters.

Manitou mach 5 sx answer cartridge shocks


texts: Limits on tooth difference when replacing crankset

texts:
Would it be possible to replace a 46/34 compact crankset to an even more compact 42/26 (SPA CYCLES TD-2)?
The bike is a Specialized Awol Elite, which uses a Tiagra groupset (except the crank which seems to be no-brand). Links below.

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p3383
https://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/adventure/awol-elite/106555

Haven't gotten the bike yet, but I probably will if I can get the gearing down in order to do some loaded touring in hilly places. With 42/26 + 11/34 it should have a range of 21"-106", but I'm pretty new to all this gear calculation thing and I have no idea if that kind of crank is suitable for the AWOL. I know that I would need to replace the bottom bracket, but is there anything else to keep in mind / is it a bad idea?

One thing I noticed for the crank is "Recommended bottom bracket length 115mm", however Shimano's Hollowtech bb's range mostly in the 70mm range...


texts: Does riding high gear up a hill damage a recumbent bike?

texts:
I have a recumbent trike with 26 gears. While normally I would shift to a low gear when going up a hill, I found that I can go up hills in the highest gear, the configuration that gives me the fastest speed on a flat. This may be because the bike relies on pressure between the seat and pedals instead of pressure from gravity, so I can put more force into the pedals.

Does riding a bike in high gear up a hill put unusual stress on the parts? It does not have high-end parts. E.g. the front and back derailleurs cost $75 together and many of the other parts can be found at Walmart. Does riding up a hill in high gear put too much pressure on a bike that the bike's parts are not designed to handle?


texts:
Situation:
I'm new to the world of trike maintenance. My son and I purchased recumbent trikes at the end of last summer. The weather for the past couple of months has been cold, snowy, cold, and...cold (Northern Pennsylvania climate.) So I cleaned them, tried my hand at lubricating the chains for the third time since owning them, and put them up in the shed to keep them out of the sun and precipitation.

This weekend looks like the first time in awhile that we might be able to go for a ride without freezing the fingers off. I took a look at the trikes, anticipating having to add air to tires and maybe clean the disc brakes, and saw the chains:

The top is one trike, the bottom two are the other...

On soliciting some info, I was told that is "definitely rust." Apparently I didn't do something right when I put them in the shed for a month of storage, or rust is not easy to fend off. As I said, I'm new to this, and trying to improve maintenance skills. I'm hoping this isn't so bad that the chains require removal or replacement at this point.

Questions:

How bad in shape are these chains, relatively speaking?
I have yet to find a definitive answer to this; how do I clear off the rust? WD-40, followed by degreaser and relubricate them?
These are chains that came stock with the trikes. I wonder if the future fix is to get a particular type of rust-resistant chain?

Being winter in PA, the roads will no doubt be salty from road melt material. I'm trying to keep the trikes cleaned, touch up paint where chips are found, wipe them down, etc...but there's a lot of contradictory advice on how to do certain things. Any advice/fixes for the questions above would be appreciated...


texts: New Tubeless Tires leaking from Molding Sprues. Manufacturing defect?

texts:
I recently got myself a new Giant Roam 0 with tubeless ready rims and Crosscut AT2 tubeless tires. Everything was assembled at the local bike shop. After having it a few days, I noticed that the tire pressure in the rear tire was going down much faster than the front tire (down from 60 to 30 psi after 3 days), so I tested the tire with soapy water.

On the front tire I found no leaks, and the back tire was leak-free around the valve and bead. However, I noticed some slow bubbling around the molding sprues on the sidewall of the tire (the small rubber hairs from the tire molding process). The same leaks are not present on the molding sprues of the front tire.

Does this sound like a manufacturing defect, or could it be fixed with some fancier sealing compound?


texts:
I found an old bmx in my shed and I'm just doing it up a little as a good muck around bike. It's not very good, I don't even know the brand but i cut the front brake off, because it didn't even work but the back brake is a U brake but I've found that when biking I'll pull the lever all the way back (as far and the grip) but it's like the brake isn't even working.. I know it's working but it's just not strong enough. So I have 2 questions.

How do I make the brake lever harder to pull so I don't pull it all the way to the grip?
How do I adjust the actual U brake to be a little closer to the rim?

Any help is appreciated! Just trying to get it working. Feel free to ask any questions too.
Cheers!


texts: Clarification on the steerer tube torque of the stem bolts

texts:
On my stem a label says "All max. 8 Nm" next to the handlebar clamp bolts.

This is the only labeling:

On the internet I found other values ranging from 20 - 30 or even 10 - 30.

Refer to:

This list (List of Torques in German; translate the Page or Look for "Vorbau")
The Parktool PDF in this answer

Shall I assume this torque for the steerer tube bolts too?

It's about these two (not the top one):

I went with 15 Nm and think I'm OK with that.


texts: Creaking sound when pedaling [audio clip included]

texts:
Something is creaking on my Cannondale while pedaling with force. It is easier to hear in low gears, when climbing. An audio clip tells it better than any literal description, so here is a recording of me climbing a steep slope: Recording
You can hear it starting from second 7. I held my phone over the crankset.

If it matters, I run Shimano 2×11, FSA MegaExo BB, DT Swiss 350 rear hub. Drivetrain elements such as chain,chainrings,cogs, pulleys are thoroughly cleaned to look and work as new. Some months ago I cleaned and lubed the BB, chainring bolts and pedal threads. The creaking is also happening while standing, so it’s not seatpost related. Yesterday I also lubricated the rear wheel nipples(WD40) and also placed a drop of lube on the contact points between the spokes, with no results.
Any ideas ?


texts: How often should I charge my (lithium) e-bike battery?

texts:
I had a retrofitted e-bike running a Leed e-bike kit for 4 years. After 800 charge cycles the battery was toast. However this system is quite basic with both the battery management & charger.

I have replaced that bike with an e-bike running Shimano STEPS e8000. This has more sophisticated battery management (I believe it doesn't use the bottom 20% or top 20% of the battery to extend life) & a more advanced charger.

However I want to make sure I get as much out of the battery as possible. On most days I ride <10km which hardly uses any of the battery capacity.

The batteries on my old & new bikes are lithium-ion.

I've come across two theories for improving battery longevity:

Charge every day - that the depth of the charge effects battery health more than the frequency of the charge. So frequent shallow charges is best for the battery.
Charge infrequently when the battery reaches a certain level (say 50%). So lowering the number of charge cycles is best for the battery.

I am really curious to know which of these approaches (or another approach) is the best to extend the life of the battery.

Thank you in advance.


texts: How to determine which size spoke wrench I should buy?

texts:
I was advised to use a dedicated spoke wrench (not multitool) when possible, so I am looking to order one online. How can I determine which size I need before ordering it?

I do have a multitool with spoke wrenches. They are labelled 0,1,2,3. 0 does not fit. 1 fits, but it is not quite snug. Based on Wikipedia, I assume this means that I need the 3.30 mm one. Is this correct?
For the sake of making the question more general, it would be nice to also have answers explaining how to choose the right size if one does not already have such a multitool.


texts:
I recently bought a bike from bikes direct (The kilo TT stripper). Its a fixed gear bike that came with a front and rear brake. I was able to setup everything but the brakes.

The brakes are: Front/Rear Tektro R350 aluminum dual pull, Gloss Black finish
The levers are: Front/Rear cross top Tektro RL570 aluminum, Gloss Black finish.

Here are some pictures

These are the brake cables and housing that I have

and of course the brakes


texts:
Winter is comming, days become shorter, need extra visibility for darker times.

Have somebody used Flectr zero reflector (https://shop.flectr.bike/collections/reflective-products)?
Is it worth the money?

I can't find any decent review of it.

Thanks


texts: Are there real use of the lowest bicycle speeds?

texts:
I'm confused about the speeds amount in my bicycle. There are totally more than 20 different speed configuration on my bicycle, but are there any practical use of such speeds as 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 2-1. What are that crazy places to use these speeds in real world?

Imagine, we can mount top 7 speeds of 10-speed cassette. Would it make sense to avoid slowest speeds since they are unused?

P.S.: The smallest speed i have ever used it 2-3 and that was a crazy steep uphill ride with plenty lot of small stones on it. What is your lowest speed?


texts: How to properly ride over ripples on gravel roads (washboards)?

texts:
On certain back-country gravel roads, a combination of erosion and tire-tread seems to create these 4-inch ripples that can repeat for long stretches of the road. Riding over them at any speed at all creates a horrible vibration that is, to say the least, extremely uncomfortable.

However, not only is it extremely uncomfortable for me as a rider to be jostled around in that manner, it also can't be good for the safety of my bike.

Is there a proper way to go over these annoying ripples without damaging either me or my bike?


texts: Handlebar stolen along with gear shifter and brake triggers. What to do how much am i looking to spend?

texts:
So live in Redfern, Sydney, Australia. I keep my bike at my dad's and he asked me to lock my bike near the police station for a while because he was fixing up his apartment. This was before I left on holidays. He messages me that he checked on the bike and that while the bike is intact, the handlebars were missing. To which I exclaimed as handlebars I imagine are easy to replace. The gears and wheels and pedals are still intact.

But then he added the brake levers and gear shifters are missing. Now I'm sure brake levers and specially gear shifters are going to be a pain but I'm not sure how much of a pain. My bike is a $400/$500 Malvern Star (Australian brand) hybrid with Shimano parts.

How much will this repair cost?


texts: How to choose a frame to be sure it fits to the owned components?

texts: I have parts from another bicycle which got it's frame broken. What criteria should I check before ordering a new frame to avoid compatibility issues with old parts?


texts: How to Remove Specialized OSBB Aluminum Inner Shell

texts: I have a 2014 Specialized Tarmac that uses press-in aluminum inner shell cups to hold the bottom bracket BB30 bearings.  These cups are affixed to the carbon frame with 2 part epoxy.  (see page 2 of this tech guide:  https://media.specialized.com/support/0000003319/0000003319_IG0338_revC.pdf).  I would like to replace the cups.  How can they be removed without damaging the carbon fiber frame?  (for a picture of the shells, go to page 3 of this link, and view the 2014 alum. inner shell to the 2014 SBC Road Frame:  https://praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/PRAXIS-FRAME-GUIDE.pdf)


texts: Is it a good idea to buy a 7-year-old MTB?

texts:
I'm a single speed rider and I'd like to buy an MTB.
My main purpose for MTB is hardcore forest riding(rocks and little downhills).
I thought of buying an used one and I saw today Marin Rock Springs 2007 at a local shop.
The original price is about 1650 euros($2300) and their call is 500 euros($700)

The shop has pretty good reputation and the bike seems to be in good condition.
Fortunately there is a tiny "mountain" behind the shop so I could testride it and the feeling and the fit were just great.

Is it a good idea to purchase a 7-year-old full suspension MTB?
Will I struggle with constant repair of breaking components?
Thanks a lot in advance :)


texts: How do you repair or lengthen a B&M Luxos Control Cable?

texts:
Maybe this would be better off in electronics, but since it's bike gear specific, I thought I'd try here first.
I need to have longer control cables on B&M's Luxos U headlight/charger combo. This control cable (not the electrical leads) runs from the light body to a handlebar switch that also features a USB charging dongle.

Our prior 2 Luxos U lights were a longer cable model, but B&M have discontinued this. The only available control cable on current models is 54cm, IIRC, not long enough for my purposes on non-standard bikes. The switch is used to turn the light on and off as well as turn it to higher intensity and flash oncoming traffic, if necessary, to make them aware of you, which is why just mounting the light and putting the switch closer to the light body (and away from the hands) isn't the best alternative.

I am told that the control cable is a simple 4-strand within a round housing. (This information comes from the US importer.) That sounds like regular USB cable, and it would make it seem like a simple job to just splice in a length of 4-strand cable from a donor USB cable, get the right length, seal it well with heat shrink and self-sealing silicone tape, and be done.
I opened it up and the guts are below. The red/black/green/white cluster at the lower contacts is what runs into the cable that runs to the switch/controller. The wires (including housing) measure 1.1mm in diameter.

However, I contacted an OEM in Europe that makes long bikes and asked if they'd tried this, and they said they had, and that for some reason, it didn't work. (They didn't tell me their strategy for dealing with it. They may still have a stockpile of the discontinued, longer cord model.)
I wondered if anyone here had needed to splice or repair one of these, and had experience or success. Obviously, I'm not eager to buy one of these and immediately cut and possibly permanently disable it with a failed experiment.
(I'm aware of other potential workarounds with other off-light chargers and cache batteries, but those are generally clunky and more expensive, and our experience with the Luxos U lighting and charging has been excellent, so I prefer to try to duplicate that if possible.)


texts:
I am in need of a front derailleur and my previous one is a Shimano Altus 3x8, (triple chainset), (8 speed cassette).
Would any other like a tourney or any others work?


texts:
When I'm alone and plodding along the shoulder of a state highway, I like to stand up to catch a wind gust as large vehicles "fly" by me. The amount of "fun" I get from this is exponentially proportional to the size of the passing vehicle.  Unfortunately, I have a few concerns regarding my mischievous behavior.

Since my average speed is about 15 MPH [1], I'm typically only in the slipstream of the said vehicles for a short period of time. Does standing up for this short period of time actually give me a substantial increase in speed?

Also, I often wear highly recognizable clothing and/or gear.  There may be a few non-cyclist motorists that recognize me.  I'm concerned that my act of standing up right before I'm getting passed could be perceived as "aggressive" behavior.  If I continue to stand up to maximize my slipstream from passing motorists, do you think I will encourage some motorists to dislike me more than they already probably do?

[1] - My maximum speed is 40 MPH but that's downhill.  Also, I can typically get up to 20 MPH on a flat way when there is a strong tailwind.


texts: What is the average reduction in air pressure for a mountain bike tire?

texts:
I've noticed that my mountain bike tire looses air, not because of a leak, etc., but just naturally as time progresses.

Does anybody know the average psi loss over time for a mountain bike tire and tube?

Just the average for a 29" wheel.


texts:
I have Shimano gears and recently it starts slipping transmission under a pressure. That is pretty annoying and painful sometimes especially when you go uphill or accelerating on the traffic light.

I use the bike for already 6.5 years. Is it fixable or I have to change gears?

I didn't do much service, I think I oiled it 3 years ago.


texts: How do I stop my rear derailleur from rubbing against my chassis?

texts:
I have a fairly new Shimano rear derailleur on a cheap department store MTB a friend gave me. Recently the derailleur (particularly the jockey wheels) have started to rub against the chassis in high gears. I tried reseating it on the hanger at a larger angle, but even as far as it will go, it just wants to spring back until it hits the chassis. The best I can get it has it with very little clearance.

Here are some pictures:

Zoomed in so we can see the derailleur hanger (with "Hole A") that is bolted to the frame. It doesn't move when the axle is loosened.

I don't particularly care for the paint job, but I do want it to stop hitting against the chassis and risk affecting operation. How do I fix it?


texts: Determining which derailleur hanger is compatible with a frame

texts:
When your derailleur hanger needs replacing, is there a good resource for matching frames to hangers?

Mine was recently bent, so I had to dig through some websites and compare pictures of the hangers to my bent unit. Surely there's a better way. Any ideas?


texts: How to avoid getting swindled when buying used cranks?

texts:
I'm looking for a cheap, used set of cranks for a bike that was fished out of the garbage :)

Because the cranks won't be on a bicycle when I go buy them, how can I tell if they're bent or not?

I'm thinking of taking a BB spindle and pedals along, putting the cranks on and trying to rotate them somehow...

Any ideas?


texts: Are there brands that sell weather-resistant chains?

texts:
I have to bike in bad weather and especially at work i have no way to store my bike in a dry place, this means that my bike chain picks up rust like nothing else, forcing me to clean it a lot. Now i'm wondering whether there are any brands of chains that are made for this kind of environment (and maybe cost a bit/lot more)?

In other words: I'm looking for the quality product in the chain world that's in a similar place of status as a Brooks saddle in the saddle world.


texts:
From the questions here and a lot of opinions elsewhere, it seems that press fit bottom brackets are bound to be creaking, almost by design, due to low tolerances and how they're installed.
It seems that many manufacturers insist on using them as they are lighter.

I am shopping for my first road bike, most of my top choices have press fit bottom brackets.
How much of a priority should this be in my choosing of a bicycle?
I am planning to buy good frame with decent components and average wheels. I will most likely upgrade the wheels and perhaps the components, but I plan to keep the frame for a long time, so this seems like a long term decision.


texts: Bike travel bags, hard cases, and homemade bags

texts:
I am regularly using airplanes for transportation
between race destinations. In fact, travelling with
a bike is always a very stressful situation. Usually, I am
very afraid when I have stopovers, because most
of the airport staff do not handle my bike bags
politely. In line with this, when we arrive on
final destination, bag is very dirty and some
parts are even broken or damaged. Despite of many
bags that I have already used, I am wondering if
there is a possibility to create a bag at home.

Has anyone experience with homemade bags?

I am still looking for appropriate material. Wood
seems to be very heavy, whilst cardboard boxes are
too soft.

What do you think?


texts: I am 24/Male and I have been riding since a year. Recently endurance riding has interested me. I have done two rides of 20 km each. Now I am planning for a 46 km ride.l My question is, should I go for it? or should I do some more 20 km rides?


texts:
My friend wants to learn to ride, and I've got a road bike that fits him reasonably. He's willing to buy a helmet, but not a trike or anything like that.

My plan was to put the seat low and have him try riding on grass, so falls are less of a problem.

What other exercises would help him get going?


texts: Freehub: why are the pawls on the inside surface not the outside?

texts:
This might have an obvious answer but when I look at freehub designs, I always see the pawls on the inner member and ratchets on the outer member. Here is an example:

Has anyone ever reversed that configuration so that the ratchets are on the inner member and the pawls & springs on the outer member? If not, what are the flaws of such a design?


texts: Mild pain in lower forearms during biking

texts: I feel some pressure and fatigue in my wrists and lower forearms during riding but not after it. I don't know whether it is due to weakness of my wrists or my suspicion that my 18" frame mount bike is small for my 6'1" height. But the thing is that I don't feel any fatigue after biking; only during it. What do you think the problem is?


texts:
Current knowledge is that riding at a higher cadence is good for long-term aerobic efforts. Does that mean that sprinting at lower cadences would be better? I have certainly experienced myself that I seem to be able to sprint faster when pushing a fairly tough gear. It feels like I can put more power out and I am exerting myself more.
Or is it that I'm just bad at riding at high cadences and I should learn how to do so? Professional sprints all seem to be at high cadences.


texts:
How important is a Heart Rate Monitor when cycling for weight loss?

I have an old Everlast HRM watch, but it cannot display the average HR after a workout. I am using RunKeeper to track my rides and I have noticed that it has a field for average HR.

Thanks


texts: upgrade from MF-TZ21 to 7 Speed cassette freehub

texts:
I'm trying to save costs so I want to upgrade to 7 speed 11-28 Cassette to keep the same shifters, dealer says I need a new Freehub, new 7 Speed Cassette, new chain AND NEW DISC BRAKES, why do I need new Disc Brakes? I already have them.

UPDATE: researching I've found it is a 6 Bolt Disc Brake (I added a new photo) so I think seller was trying to sell me what he had (Centerlock hub I think), not what I need (36H 6-Bolt rear hub).


texts: Why have MTB tyres with strong front / back design disappeared?

texts:
Back a few years ago was easy to find tyres with a particular design based on their position, back or front, see this sample image fron a pair of Nokian Boazobeana:

Riding with those was pretty nice, especially with the front one, which provides a great driving precision and security.
So it's strange why is so hard to find something similar in the market today, someone knows why?


texts: Are there valve caps that show the tire pressure?

texts:
I saw these valve caps for cars, set at 2.4 bar:

Is there something similar for bicyles? it would help less careful riders when it's time to pump more air in them.


texts: What is this part of a bicycle trailer called, and where can I find a replacement?

texts:
I have a Schwinn double bicycle trailer for my kids, but it is broken.

The black plastic part pictured fits at the base of the right wall and connects it to the trailer frame. A bolt goes through the hole to allow the wall to fold-up for storage.

As you can see the plastic has broken, so the wall of the trailer collapses, making the trailer unusable.

I asked Schwinn customer support and their response was:

  I'm afraid we don't have that part in stock any longer to repair your
  trailer.  You may be able to find the parts online.  I would recommend
  looking for plugs for canopy frame arms.

Plugs for canopy arms doesn't yield any search results for me.

Does anyone know what this part is called?

Where could I find a replacement?


texts: Is it Smart to buy a carbon mountainbike?

texts:
I'm planning in buying a mountainbike but i'm not sure wether to buy a carbon or an aluminium one. My main concern is that when i fall, will the carbon frame break faster or become unusable significantly quicker than the aluminium one?
It's either the Ghost htx 5 lc or the Thompson xc650 ALU.


texts: Would Lowering my Handlebars Help my Performance?

texts:
I ride now with pretty decent comfort, I have no real back/neck/shoulder pain. As I ride now I feel decent, but I feel as though I might be in too much of an upright position on the bike to get the best performance.

I have been considering lowering my handlebars in hopes that it might tweak my position a little and help give me a little extra power on the pedals.

I first was going to try moving a spacer or two,(5cm) to see if that might help.

Then I considered flipping my stem, but the angle at which my stem sits might be a little to extreme.

Basically I'm just wondering if adjusting my handlebars would help me performance-wise or if it would really just be a waste of time/effort? If it would help, which way should I go about adjusting it?


texts:
Just replaced my pedals on a very old Norco MTB.

I noticed while working on it that the whole pedal structure is wiggling from side to side is this normal?

I took the plastic caps off the base to see if it is an easy tightening fix, but not sure if tightening that bolt is the  way to correct the problem?


texts: Cannot shift to lowest gear - chain too short?

texts:
I’m in the process of switching from an 11-25 to 11-32 rear cassette.  The upgrade has involved replacing the cassette, rear derailleur (short to medium cage) and fitting a new chain.

I can cleanly shift through all rear gears on the small front cog, however on the large cog I’m unable to shift to the lowest few gears.  Towards these lowest gears the rear derailleur looks to be under a lot of tension, the upper jockey wheel is not engaged and things get jammed up:

I believe I’ve sized the chain too short but I’m looking for confirmation as I thought I used the largest front/rear without derailleur + 2 links when sizing.

If I have sized things incorrectly can I just pick up a few more link pins and add some links back?  Anybody able to offer suggestions on how many additional links to add?


texts: Can I use Giant Talon as a road bicycle?

texts:
I bought a Giant Talon bike and I got thinner tires.

Can I use it for road and streets now?


texts: Dahon Speed Uno. Main frame hard to fold

texts: Is there a way to lubricate or adjust the tension on the main frame hinge on a Dahon Speed Uno? New bike, and it is extremely difficult to fold in half.


texts:
I'll need a new saddle for my bike soon. I use it mainly for short commutes (30 minutes). About once a year I go touring for a few days, up 8 hours in the saddle.

My current saddle just came with the bike. I see there are a lot of different saddle types available now, from the ultra thin, to the wide & comfy to the downright fruity.I associate the thin saddles with racers, but thats the limit of my knowledge.

When choosing a new saddle, should I choose based on my body frame or my cycling type (i.e. get one for short commutes, one for touring)?


texts: 26" fork on 24" bike: reduce travel on suspension fork

texts:
My son and I are building him a 24" bike.  The frame was donated from a trashed bike, it had a 24" coil suspension fork with 40mm travel and weighed a ton.  The axle-to-crown measurement was 435mm.
Now I am looking at some air suspension forks, most of which are 26" but all of them have a axle-to-crown that's much more than the 435mm.  I have no experience in this, but I was hoping to reduce the travel on one of these forks such that it has the correct measurement.
Question; would it be likely possible for the fork to be adjusted such that I can reduce the travel more than what is specified on the fork?  For example, I am looking at a fork that is listed as adjustable from 100mm to 80mm travel and I would need to adjust the travel down further to 40mm such that I get the required axle-to-crown.
We are using disc brakes so I am only concerned about reducing the crow-to-axle measurement.
example: a 26" fork is listed with axle-to-crown of 490mm and travel of 100mm (adjustable down to 80mm).  I am hoping to "hack" the travel down to 45mm such that the axle-to-crown is 435mm.


texts: I require advice on a recurring problem with my brakes

texts:
I've had a bike with hydraulic brakes for about six months now, and have a problem with the brake just losing power. I think it's fluid being lost.

This is a question I asked earlier
Something wrong with my brakes

I went back to the store and complained and spoke to the manager who gave me a free bleed and new brake pads. After not using my bike at all this quarantine me and my family decide to go out as we haven't been out the house in five weeks. I go to get my bike to find that there is no braking whatsoever. My lever is pushed all the way to the handlebar grips and there is no braking whatsoever for both front and back. I have all the receipts of all the pads I have bought from then and of the purchase and of the bleed.

What do I do now?


texts: Quill stem diameter not matching the fork...possible to get around this?

texts:
I refurbished my bike and in the process got a new shiny quill stem to replace the original threadless stem. Unfortunately, like a dunce I forgot to ensure that the diameter of the stem adapter (the big bolt that connects the stem with the fork) fits the diameter of the fork. The quill stem adapter is ever so slightly larger in diameter than the fork.

I really want to keep both the brand new stem and the fork. Is there anything I can do to make them fit? Some sort of adapter to fit in between? Maybe a thinner bolt that fits the fork and the quill stem - and then somehow add "filling" between the new bolt and the stem? Open to any ideas.

EDIT

It looks like I'm SOL. But in case this helps, here's the current threadless headset and the new quill stem I'd like to mount on somehow.


texts:
I come from a mountain biking background but I've also done a lot of cycle touring but I chose to go with flat bars and bar-ends vs drop bars.

I've also seen bikes that are designed for 'bike packing' such as the Salsa Fargo sporting drop bars.

Recently I've done more road biking but I still don't fully understand the reasons behind drop bars. Can you tell me what the benefits area?


texts: Rear Shimano Acera derailleur skips chain ring after replacing cable

texts:
I've had my Schwinn High Timber F5 mountain bike for probably 15 years and decided to replace all the cables. I've also already borrowed the rear wheel from my guest bike while I figure out how to properly true up the old one (another question will be coming on that).

After replacing the cable and wheel, I cannot get the shifting to work properly. It always skips a sprocket on the way up and down the cassette, never skipping the same sprocket in either direction. I've successfully indexed my gears before, but I cannot get them indexed with this new cable.

Things I've done to the bike so far:

Straightened out a very bent derailleur hanger with the Park Tool DAG-2.2 Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge. I wonder if my derailleur had somehow adapted to the bent hanger or was adjusted accordingly at the bike shop when they installed it. Now that I've fixed the hanger, could it be causing indexing issues?
As mentioned, replaced rear bike wheel. I've had this wheel on my bike prior to replacing the cable and it shifted no differently. The cogs are identical in size and spacing so far as I can tell
Ensured that the limiter screws are properly adjusted

Thinking of just buying new derailleurs, but am hoping I am just doing something wrong.


texts: Uncomfortable road saddle, how to choose a saddle for my riding?

texts:
I have a selle royale laser saddle. Its pretty uncomfortable but not bad for pedalling. I would like to change my city road bike saddle. Does anyone have recommendations, and rules of thumb for choosing saddles?

My specific use case is for short and medium trips in the city. For long trips I have a Brooks Champion Flyer. I was using an mtb saddle. A specialized body geometry saddle on my road bike, but I found that its too wide & need a saddle designed for the road bike. Its a vintage road bike so the saddle position and pedalling style compared to newer road bikes might be different (its a 1950s H.R. Bates).


texts: Is the plastic sleeve optional for a GXP bottom bracket install?

texts:
I took my frame to a bike shop to have the threads chased on the drive side.  When I got home, I realized that they didn't install the plastic sleeve (because I didn't give it to them).  They didn't say anything about it, so is that just to keep out dust/grime?

And what's the official word for that plastic sleeve?


texts: How important is it to re-space my rear hub?

texts:
I just bought new wheels for an older Schwinn frame. I don't know the date it was made, but it's a steel frame and as built it had stem shifters and a cup-and-cone bottom bracket, etc. Probably from some time in the 80s, I estimate.

The spacing between the rear dropouts on the frame itself is 130mm; the new rear wheel and hub arrived spaced to 120mm. It's a flip flop hub with a solid axle (no quick release). I am able to get the hub to fit snugly between the dropouts just by tightening the axle nuts, since the steel frame will bend to make up that 5mm on each side pretty easily.

Is this a safe setup? Or do I need to add spacers to the hub to fit the 130mm frame without any bending?


texts:
I recently rode my bike on some steep hills. After descending on a 4 km road with some sections at 21% slope, I realized my rims were pretty hot not only where the brake pads operate, but even up to the sprokes connection.

Though I realize that keeping the bike moving will allow for a more effective cooling, should one let the rims cool down to preserve braking efficiency in such situations?


texts: Are there standards for tubeless tires/rims?

texts:
I still trying to understand tubeless systems (well, i understand the principal, but it's the implementation that I'm still confused)

In this video, they show a cross section of a wheel rim and tire.
I'm not certain if this is just a artistic representation of a tubeless tire and rim interface or one example for the Schwalbe tires ?

Are there consideration or things to look for when buying a tubeless tire so that I know will fit my tubeless ready rim ?

Schwalbe video


texts: Sachs- Huret derailleur (re)installation

texts:
Sachs - Huret derailleur installation

So the learning curve continues on the '85 Peugeot P-16. The main lessons are to take pictures and time getting each thing done.

I have the rear derailleur hung. There are two numbers stamped on the bracket - 24 & 28. Since my large freewheel cog is 28 tooth, I assume there's some correlation.

Q: how do I know which notch the circular spring (which controls the cage/ jockey wheels) rests?

And second Q: the stock rear axle is held in place with a double nut (one piece - 2 nuts wide) on either end which includes a conical washer. This leaves about 3mm of thread showing inside the nut. There's about 5 mm of axle threaded into each side. Can I replace this factory piece with single of even double axle nuts (cone wrench thickness) so the axle & nuts even out?


texts:
I have a 9 year old road bike with Shimano 105 groupset (approx 20 000 miles).  I clean the deraileur as best I can but have never taken it apart or replaced anything in it.
Recently, when I use the small chainring, the top jockey wheel seems to rest on the chain and cassette.  It makes some noise but shifting is pretty much unaffected.
Are you able to give me an idea of what the issue might be before I start disassembling things or ordering new parts?  What the expected lifespan of a deraileur?


texts: I bought a new inner tube and when I tried to inflate it, the tube got unevenly inflated (check picture). This is the first time I'm installing a tube by myself so I don't know if this is normal. Do you think this is this a production defect, or did I do something wrong while pumping the tube? Can I fix it by myself?


texts:
It's often easier to transport a bike in the back seat of a car with the front wheel off, rather than setting up the bike rack. I've noticed that, due to the way the car seats are built, there's often unequal stress on the fork. Do I need to be concerned with this, over the course of a few hours on the road, or is this a nonissue?

The bike I most often transport like this has a steel fork, although I have a bike with an aluminum fork I put in the back seat every so often.


texts: Does a highly visible frame colour improve safety significantly?

texts:
Studies have shown that wearing hi-viz colours, particularly on moving extremities such as one's feet, coupled with hi-viz helmets and cycling shirts, increases the chance of been seen by a driver from a safe distance. The same principle also applies for reflective clothing at night. Flashing lights, also dramatically increase the chances of being seen by the driver of an approaching vehicle.
Does having a bicycle frame in a bright colour also dramatically reduce the probability of being hit by a vehicle?
(To provide a bit of context I am contemplating buying a new road bike and the model I am eyeing comes standard in black. For an additional fee I can have a custom paint job done, but I am questioning whether it is worth it. Given that I will be using the bicycle mainly in the country side, and not in cities, I am expecting fast moving, but not very dense traffic, and few intersections. I am most worried about the cars over-taking me from the rear.)


texts:
Right now, I've got a SRAM 11/26 cassette. I just moved to San Francisco, and some of the climbs out here (e.g., Mt. Tamalpais) are pretty brutal with over an hour of climbing. My cadence over some of the steeper sections towards the top tends to hover around 70, when I'd much rather be up at 80 or 90. I've been considering switching to an 11/28.

The thing stopping me from doing so is wondering if it would be better, training-wise, to grind it out for now until my power and endurance improve, bringing my ability up into the range where a 26t climbing gear is appropriate. I'm afraid if I switch to a 28t, I'll use it as a crutch. Should I stick it out with the 26t until I get stronger?


texts: Is it normal that the tyre fits effortless the rim?

texts:
I've been constantly having problems with my wheel going flat. I couldn't find anything on the rim but I changed the rim tape and I bought a new tyre.

The old tyre was a bit worn. It was also fitting the rim too easy, something I was attributing to the fact that it was old and also that I've been changing the tube a lot.
Nevertheless, now I noticed that the new tyre also goes a bit too easy, as in, I didn't even have to use any tool to put it.

I am sure they are the right size and I don't see any evident sign in the rim to make me think it is not usable anymore, although it is a bit hit here and there but nothing particular as to make anyone think it shouldn't work fine.

Is this normal? Should I check something else?

EDIT:
The  tyre size is 37-622. It is a city (Grandma/Grandpa-like bike).


texts: Derailleur indexing problem - doesn't change from 8 to 7 but skips form 3 to 1

texts:
I just fitted a new 8 speed Shimano cassette (CS-HG41-8) and chain (CN-HG40) to my new turbo trainer (Elite Suito). Answers to my previous question suggest that this should work OK (see Can I put a 8 speed bike on a Elite Suito 11 speed direct drive turbo trainer).
The fitting seemed to go according to plan (fitted 2 spacers=1.85mm in total on the trainer's freehub, then the 8 speed sprocket cassette, then the lock ring, then left and right chainstay adapters as required for 135mm dropout spacing, then installed the bike using the quick release and dropout adapter supplied with the turbo trainer). I then indexed the derailleur by setting the high and low limters then tensioning the shifter cable and adjusting it according to the instructions in this YouTube video:

            .
If I adjust the shifter cable tension using the barrel adjuster to get a nice, clean gear change from the highest (8th) gear/sprocket down to the next one then the gears shift cleanly down through 8, 7, 6, 5, 4 but when I shift to 3 the chain skips straight over to 1st gear without engaging 2nd gear. If I reduce the shifter cable tension a little bit then the gears shift cleanly down through the low gears (3,2,1) but there then doesn't seem to be enough tension to shift down through the highest gears (nothing happens when I click the shifter from 8 to 7 and the chain only shifts down when I select 6th gear). I can't seem to find any setup that works at both ends of the gear range. I don't understand how the shifter cable tension can be correct for the gears at one end of the range but incorrect for the other end of the range. It's almost as if the increments produced by the shifter are not quite compatible with the those required by the cassette but shouldn't a Shimano 8 speed cassette work with any Shimano 8 speed shifter? I also checked the rear derailleur hanger isn't bent - it seems fine as far as I can see and I think it worked OK with the old cassette and chain that were on the bike before I repurposed it to use with the turbo trainer. Any ideas where I'm going wrong are gratefully received as I'm basically following instructions here without any huge insight into what I'm doing!
Thanks in advance.


texts: 10mm through axle hub use in traditional frame?

texts:
My dilemma is i have a hub with 10mm through axle for which there are no qr adaptors. I considered clamping it into the frame just using the steel 10mm through axle as the "skewer". Funnily the through axle is marginally too big for the rear dropout. To make this work I'd  need to reduce the through axle diameter or enlarge the dropout size, very slightly, about 0.1mm or 4 thou.
I have placed a traditional Shimano 10mm qr rear axle through the hub axle. The over length is correct, ca. 11mm. It fits with a small diametral clearance, and hence also fits the dropouts as per common practice.I think it will be perfectly fine to use this axle and skewer to secure the rear wheel.
Can anybody point out an obvious flaw here?
Thanks


texts:
I work in the bicycle industry and have never heard nor needed to know the term Flat Folding Width of a tube. Is this even pertinent information to anything other than maybe how many you can jam in your pack? Anyone familiar with or heard this term before? I'm guessing it's the size of a tube when its still folded up with no air, basically right out of the box..

Which seems really pretty pointless to me. It would be on the distribution side of the industry but even to a shop i don't see it having a point as the boxes they come in will be the deciding factor for stocking on a shelf, not the tube inside.

Anyone heard this term or can think of a reason it would be important to anything?


texts:
I've been having some bike issues with a 2016 Trek Allant 7.4 . I'm looking for any documentation about this problem, or any known solutions that don't include externally routing the cable.

Long story short is that the gears aren't shifting properly. I've seen it up on the mechanic's stand and within a few minutes he was able to downshift on the shifter and the derailleur didn't budge at all.

When I ride you have to downshift one past the gear you want and then upshift again to reliably get it into gear.

If you downshift a few gears at once, like you might when going up a hill, downshifting one more than you need and then up again doesn't always seem to get you into the gear that's selected on the shifter.

What happens then is that the derailleur changes the gears at some unexpected time to the gear that is actually selected on the shifter. There's a crunch that I'm sure isn't great for the cassette or the chain, and your weight gets thrown off balance.

The mechanic I spoke to said that this was a problem with the design of the Allant 7.4. The shifter cable comes out straight at the same angle from the chain stay. It gets bent upward and sits in contact with the quick release nut. The mechanic told me that the problem was due to the sharpness of the angle that the cable was routed after it exited the chain stay.

The same mechanic told me that this problem was addressed in later models. I've attached a photo of the Allant 7.4 and FX-4 routing and you can see that the FX-4 angles the cable upward at the exit from the chain stay. It looks like the FX-4 routing is along a much more gentle curve as well.

The shop I bought the bike from has replaced every single component involved in the rear gears (possibly not the external sheath at the back? The manager told me this couldn't be the cause of the problem). The cassette, derailleur, chain, shifters, shifter cable core (now using a thinner core) have all been replaced.

The bike has been looked at by 5 mechanics: 3 mechanics from the store that retailed the bike and stock only Trek bicycles, and 2 mechanics who are Trek employees.

This experience has really put me off internally routed cabling and Trek bikes in general to be completely honest.

Does anyone know of any documentation around this issue? Are there any known fixes?

https://archive.trekbikes.com/au/en/2016/Trek/allant_7_4#/au/en/2016/Trek/allant_7_4/details

https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx-sport-4/p/21559/?colorCode=grey

The cable doesn't flare out to the right that much, I think my phone's camera is giving a bit of a fisheye effect up this close.


texts:
I have a Trek 820 2014 26 inch for which I had the lbs convert to rigid fork. The original suspension fork was a suntour m3030 which the manufacturer states has a 63mm travel for my bike size. I lost that fork so I have no idea what the length of the axle to crown of that when I’m seated.

My current fork is actually a decent and durable but has about 375 mm axle to crown. I have my eye on a surly 1x1 in which the 100mm travel corrected axle to crown is 413mm. My fork has a trail that I don’t know the measurement of. So does this surly.

My issue is that my shoulders and neck get easily uncomfortable where I have to sit up on my bike(holding my grips with my fingertips) from time to time on only a 10 mile ride. Doing no hands is twitchy, very sensitive to movements so great care is needed when drinking on the go. I have a different bottle now though so I get to drink only during stops, or stop myself to drink, but still, the fact is maneuvering needs good focus.

Additionally, I have thinner tires now that accommodates 1.8 in tubes. I had no ride problems with the tires on the suspension fork, nor probably the rigid ones.

My question is will a higher front make the ride more comfortable for my shoulders and neck? Could the bike tolerate that change in height structurally?


texts: Do aluminium chainrings/cassettes contribute to chain wear?

texts:
In trying to achieve a long lasting, low maintenance drivetrain, I've read statements about aluminium oxide being the source of the black colour of chain dirt and also being highly abrasive:

  Aluminum oxide from chainrings makes chain dirt black - and it is very hard and abrasive. Grinding wheels are made of aluminum oxide!

  — John Allen on sheldonbrown.com

Others state that pretty much all the abrasives (including the aluminium oxide) come from the road:

  I believe almost all the grit comes from the road. Aluminum is very
  common in most soils, in the form of aluminum oxide, which is a pretty
  effective abrasive.

  — Frank Krygowski in rec.bicycles.tech

My question is this:

How much of the dirt/abrasive on a chain comes from the chainrings, and how much does it really affect chain wear?

My feeling is that the aluminium oxide particles ground off the chainrings would be of very low diameter, and thus wouldn't have a significant abrasive effect compared to the larger particles of sand and dirt thrown up from the road/path itself. Obviously this brings up questions as to the lubricant used (as a sticky lube will attract dirt) and riding conditions, but for the sake of this discussion, I'd like to consider a bicycle which is regularly maintained and ridden in all weather, primarily on made roads.

To bring this into the realm of the practical, my reason for asking is that if the cog material truly does affect chain longevity, I would consider changing to steel cogs (not currently considering the other advantages/disadvantages of steel, which have been covered elsewhere).


texts:
Rather than replace the stem on every rusty bike I come across, I want to replace some stem bolts which are rusted, cheap original ones. I know they can differ in size a bit so I would get some that fit nicely the profile of the existing stem.

Are there any specific requirements for bolts to do this job? Can I just bulk buy some stainless steel socket head cap screws?

In particular this is for other people's bikes, or refurbishing ones to be sold. I would maybe try things out on my own bike but don't want to take any risk with someone else's.

Most jobs on the bike I would be more confident about subbing bolts in, or they usually have better lasting bolts, but stem bolts seem really safety critical to me but often rust and deserve replacing. Am I worrying where there is no need?


texts: I'm trying to mount Luxos IQ2 onto the fork crown. There isn't quite enough space between the back of the light and front brake cable and I was wondering if I could add a spacer between IQ2 metal bracket and the fork crown. Or would it weaken the stability of the mount?


texts:
I have a set of two rims which have an inner width of 24mm, both of them are  hooked. It is unclear after looking around various sources if Continental Grand Prix 5000 in 32-622 might fit or may have problems. The pamphlet it came with doesn't specify the maximum/minimum tyre width.

(This rim width marked here is 24mm)

Are they a security hazard or will they be fine?


texts: Adjust rear derailleur - strange behavior

texts:
So I'm trying to adjust and fine tune the bicycle, but there's something that quite doesn't match up anything I've seen or read online about rear derailleur adjustment, most manuals go this way.

Adjust limit screws.
Fine tune cable tension.

2.1 if it's not going from the largest gears to the smallest, tighten, remove tension

2.2 if it's not going from the smallest gears to the largest, loosen, add tension.

My problem is that after getting the limit screws right, it fails in both directions, that means, going from the largest to the smallest and from the smallest to the largest both fail, so adding and remove tension won't work as fixing one would only make the other worse. However this only happens in the higest gears, the climbing gears shift perfectly, where the fast gears would randomly fail in both directions.

Basically everything is new, and yes, it is definitely matching parts, it was working well a week ago, now it feels like the changes in the smallest cogs are too small to trigger anything.

I understand how all the mechanism works with the exception of the B-screw.

Just a comment when I set up my limit screws it seems like I can push the derailleur a couple of millimeters in the horizontal axis and an entire centimeter in the vertical axis, only in the smallest cogs, I could swear to god that's why, it's sticking to the previous position and hence it fails in both directions unless cable tension is able to overcome that, except that there's not enough cable tension to overcome the stickiness of the derailleur in the smallest cogs, but the derailleur is new, some sort of setting or what?

EDIT: I just added oil to the derrauilier and it seems less sticky and it got better, but it still fails a lot to switch.


texts: With a 700c X whatever tire, does the other number really matter?

texts: I'm trying to buy a new tire off of a website but they offer 700cX32c and others like that but are they all the same size or not?


texts: Using cyclocross tires for winter riding

texts:
I've currently got a fixie road bike with some stock road tires. They're fairly low-profile, as in, they aren't knobby, and have low-profile treads.

Because my fork and stays have enough clearance for it, I'm debating using some CX tires at least early in the winter, before riding becomes nigh impossible altogether.

The two biggest environmental hazards I'd be trying to work around would be the cold (I want to try and stay on the bike down to about -10 or -15 ºC) and slush, which is extremely abundant where I am even fairly early on in the season.

I'm not looking to avoid ice; at that point I'll probably look for another means of transportation.

Are CX tires generally alright for winter riding? What road conditions would limit their effectiveness?


texts:
I am looking for replacement chainrings for a mechanical, 2x Sram 11 speed drivetrain and was wondering if I can find chainrings anywhere that will fit the road bolt pattern of a standard crank but are smaller than 50/34 tooth size?

It's pretty easy to find 1x chainrings in smaller sizes for road and mountain, but Sram does not sell anything smaller than 50/34 for 2x sizes.

Does anybody make sub-compact chainrings in a size smaller than 50/34?


texts: Does the top tube typically open into the head tube?

texts:
This must be a very basic question, but as it often happens with very basic questions, it is often hard to find the answer by searching.

On a modern bike with metal (welded) frame, is the interior of the top tube (and/or the down tube) accessible through the head tube? I.e does the head tube have holes in it that lead into the other attached tubes of the frame?

From what I could see on the Net, it appears that the head tube is typically a full cylindrical tube, without any holes. Is that so?

Meanwhile, it seems that I have some parts rattling inside the top tube of my bike (Specialized TriCross), which routes the rear brake cable through the top tube. I wonder how they got there, if the interior of the top tube is not accessible (aside from two fairly small cable holes/openings)


texts:
This is similar to this question on frame size, however that is addressing it from a road bike standpoint.

My wife is 4' 9", and I am interested in getting her a mountain bike, as she has expressed interest in hauling the kids back and forth to local parks, etc, in a trailer. We had a child's bike previously, that was...clunky at best. It doesn't need to be full suspension (Truthfully doesn't need to be front suspension either, although I suspect there aren't any of those around any more).

The frame size charts that I've seen all stop at 4'11" for the shortest, with a recommended frame size of 13-15". Will that be sufficient, or will I need to possibly look at kid sized mountain bikes? Her body morphology is normal (No overly short legs with larger torso, etc), so everything is in proportion.


texts:
I think my front wheel axle is too short, it is only half the size of the fork notch, see the picture:

But if I remove the nut, the fork would touch the wheel and the disc brake.

When I insert the quick release axle it looks like this:

Is there something wrong, or it is okay?


texts:
Aside from racing or riding across a frozen pond, under what conditions do you find studded tires useful?

I have never used them, and the worst I have had to do is take a day off when it is really nasty and icy. Maybe some climates or landscapes are more prone to the spontaneous formation of ice patches?


texts:
I have a singlespeed/track geometry frame and I am after a fork that matches it.

Besides the diameter of the steerer tube (it's 1 1/8"), what should I be looking for in the fork specs to be sure about compatibility?

EDIT: Let me be be more specific about the actual fork+frame combination that I want to assemble:

Fork (Alpina UD Carbon Track Fork)

Droput lawyer tabs: No
Fork length Axle - Crown (cm): 36
Headset type: Integrated
Rake (mm): 35
Steerer diameter (inches): 1 1/8

Frame
http://ride2rock.jp/products/bike.php?id=31411


texts:
I found a crack underneath the handlebar. Is it okay to keep using it? I can't really afford a new one. I'm riding with the cracked bar right now and there's no weird sound and movement on the handlebar.

To make things easier to explain, here is the crack

Not sure what happened. I can feel the crack with my hands and I felt a string like material on the crack. I lent my bike to my brother and he came back with a broken bike. I replaced the broke parts and I didn't check the handlebar until when my friend noticed a strange white line under the bar. I already know it needs replacement immediately.

Please tell me what cause the crack so I might avoid the same problem again in the future.


texts:
I'm planning on changing my cassette to 11-32.
Im running a Shimano 12-28 8 speed at the moment.

I have no markings on my old cassette and I'm a little confused at all the letters and numbers they use.

Obviously they mean nothing to me as I have no markings to compare.

Can I safely assume If I buy a Shimano 8 speed cassette it will fit my freehub?


texts: Why did Shimano eliminate the B tension spring on the latest rear derailleurs?

texts: While working on my bikes (a road bike with Ultegra 6600 groupset and a MTB with Shimano deore XT M8000) I noticed that the upper pivot on the Deore does not freely rotate. Looking at the exploded part fiches I confirmed it, there is no B tension spring and screw. Why is that? Why was it needed before?


texts: Can I remove the clutch system from bike helmet?

texts:
I recently bought a Kali Chakra Plus helmet for my bike. This is the link with the specs.

It has the inner clutch system made from plastic in order to adjust the fit which is plastic and onto which the padding is placed. I want to remove the plastic clutch for traveling purposes (I need to put it inside a bag) and it looks like it can be removed but I'm not sure.

Does anyone know if it can be removed?

Below is the picture of the helmet from inside with the clutch painted in orange:


texts: What to do to quiet with this clunking, clicking, and banging front wheel

texts:
A week ago I wiped out on some ice. When I got back on my bike I heard a new clicking that, as I rode, turned into clunking. It sounded random, not occurring according to a pattern, and it sped up as I pedaled faster. The only connection I made is that it seemed like it was related a bit to the roughness of the road.

I did a bunch of troubleshooting and figured out that it was the front wheel. The bearings were smooth, the disk rotor was clean and not scraping, the spokes were consistently tensioned. When I was squeezing the spokes, they made a noise where two spokes cross. You know the sound. So I decided to tighten the spokes and went for a ride. Noise persisted. So I decided to loosen the spokes. I made them really loose, like flopping-around-the-rim-goes-way-out-of-true loose. So I tightened everything back up to true, but not as tight as things were. The wheel is a lot quieter now, but it is still giving off some noise. Oh yeah, I lubed the nipples, so this isn't the pinging sound that twisted spokes sometimes make.

This is a double-walled rim, no eyelets. I do not see any bulges or cracks.

What else can I do? Do some wheels just make noise? (this is a cheap wheel - formula hub, generic rim, black spokes)


texts: Can I run aluminum backed organic brake pads with Elixir Avid 5 hydraulic system?

texts: The old pads were steel.  I bought the aluminum thinking they would disperse heat better but if it's going to cause a problem with the braking system I'll go back to steel at less than half the price.


texts: GRX Di2 front derailleur compatibility with Ultegra 2x crankset

texts: Researching an upgrade to GRX Di2, am aware from this forum (as well as Shimano) that the GRX 2x crankset is pushed 2.5 mm outboard and thus requires a GRX FD. However, what about the opposite: using a GRX (Di2) front derailleur with an existing Ultegra 2x crankset that came stock on a 2020 Trek Checkpoint SL6?


texts: Which kind of electric-assist bike would be appropriate?

texts:
I have a regular bike that I wanted to use to commute to my work (~12km/7mi) and back. In practice it turned out that while it was OK for one way, at my current level of fitness, I felt rather too tired after work to get back on bike and drive all the way back, so I only did this a couple of times. Plus, of course, it took approximately 30% more time than going by car (but that's generally OK).

So, I have started to look if maybe electric-assist bikes would be a help there. My  idea was that I would use muscle power as much as possible to give myself a decent workout, but the electric power could help when I felt too tired or when I needed to go faster.

I looked at Hybrid electric bikes, how do they work? and Why would I use an electric bike?, but I kind of feel they assume plenty of things already known.

Do I understand it right that there are several kinds of electrical bikes(hybrid? others?), and which kind would be best suited for the use as I described? How about the fact that electrical bikes are (as far as I can see here) around +10kg to my existing bike?

I am in Eastern Europe.  There are no equivalents to the UK's Bike-To-Work scheme available here.


texts: My old pedals don't spin freely, is it worth lubing them?

texts:
I have a bike that has been left outside and unmaintained for a while, so now I'm trying to fix it back up.

One thing I notice is that the pedals don't spin freely if I flick them with my foot. I don't notice it much when I'm riding, but I assume it reduces the efficiency of the bike somewhat.

Is it worth lubing them or this this probably fine?

If so, what's the best way to lube them to make them more efficient?


texts: Roadmaster Chromium Edition rear wheel falls off

texts:
I've not really maintained a bike since I was young (loooong time ago) and just got one second hand but the rear wheel slips off on hard uphill rides?

Im sure its something simple so sorry if its a stupid question but the bolts are as tight as I can get them, is there something missing that I should be doing? Ive added some images if needed!

Thanks for any help :D


texts: What does "unisex" mean in the context of mechanical disc brakes?

texts: I see the term "unisex" used with mechanical disc brakes. What does the term mean in that context?


texts: I have recently had my tyres on my bike changed from mountain bike tyres to road tyres. I was also advised by the man who fixed it that my saddle was too low for me and he raised it. Since these changes it almost feels like I am cycling with slightly flat tyres. Uphill doesn't feel massively strenuous but I just wanted to see if this is normal or not?


texts:
I am struggling to remove a freehub from my bike. Please help me to disassemble the hub as it is stuck. When I stop pedaling the cassette keeps turning, to the point where it pulls the chain and derailleur.
I think the freehub is full of grease and gunk which doesnt allow my back wheel to ratchet when I stop pedalling.

This is how the wheel looks after a bit of disassembling already.

And this other side

I dont know how to disassemble any further from this point onwards, please help to open it up in order to replace or lube the parts which are stuck.

Thanks a lot.


texts:
I am currently building a road bike. I measured the chain using the largest ring and largest cog method, I counted two extra links and cut the chain using a chain tool.

Both ends of the chain now have narrow ends. I want to use a power link, I understand that if I use the power link to join the ends, the chain will be one link longer than necessary.

How can I remedy the situation?

Appreciate any help.


texts: Cant get my rear derailleur to reach all cogs

texts:
I have been having an issue on my road bike getting the rear derailleur to reach all of my cogs.  I can either not reach my two smallest cogs or two largest cogs depending on the cable tension.

I found a nice set of instructions here: http://www.williambenedict.com/bikes/derailleurs.html and followed through them with the cable disconnected and I was able to set the limit screws so that if I moved the derailleur manually I was able to shift smoothly to every cog.  Once I connected the cable I was able to shift to all but the 2 largest cogs so I started adjusting the barrel 1/4 turn at a time.  I had to turn the barrel almost all of the way in order to get to the 2nd largest cog(I can't even reach the largest) and with this adjustment I can no longer reach the two smallest cogs.

From what I can tell my derailleur isn't bent at all.  Also, I'm not sure if it is much more difficult to shift to a larger cog than it is going back to a lower (I have bar end shifters).  I have to pull on it quite hard.

Since I am able to successfully shift to every gear smoothly whilst manually moving the derailleur, I imagine this is an issue with my cable.  Would it's age have anything to do with it?


texts: Identify old bicycle w/locking steering column?

texts:
Pulled this bike out of an old shed on a property we just purchased. Believe it to be an aluminum frame but was more intrigued with the locking steering column. The badge is not on it; can anyone tell me more about it?

Additional Info:

The home is located in MS and was built at the turn of the century. The young girl who rode it would have been 12yo in '38. I had moved the bike to a garage and took this photo. Regarding the badge, I looked at the head tube and saw two holes (vertically spaced ~2-3 inches apart) and an outline. We were visiting over the holiday and unfortunately don't have the opportunity for more detailed photos at this time.


texts: Suitability of open sided bearings for frame pivots

texts:
On a 10 year old bike I am trying to replace miniature frame pivot bearings which measure 9mm x 17mm x 4mm, pictured below, and are sealed with 689z stamped on. They must measure the same dimensions to fit in the frame... but I cannot find sealed bearings which are 4mm wide, they are only 4mm as 'open' bearings, those with seals are listed everywhere as 5mm wide, no good.

It's left me rather confused, I definitely have seals and have checked the 4mm measurement.

So how about open bearings for mountain bike use? they are right at the back end of the frame at the rear dropout with a nice 1mmish clearance for dirt to get through. I have assumed so far that open bearings are a no-no for frame pivots, but cannot find anything else from a range of national suppliers. Just how bad would it be to use open bearings as mtb pivots?


texts: Asymmertric Wheel Valve Stem Hole Placement

texts: I have just purchased a new bike. It came with Fulcrum Racing 700 Disc Centrelock Wheelset. I noticed the valve stem hole machined into the rim is off centre. I queried this with the technical desk of the company I purchased the bike from and was told that it was correct. Apparently, due to the asymmetric construction of the wheel it is produced that way to add more material on one side of the rim and thus increase its strength. Your thoughts/comments/is this BS or is it correct?


texts:
I'm new to cycling and I've got a borrowed, older, road bike. I believe it's a 10 speed, with 700 series tires. From what I've been told it was a very expensive bike in the 90's. I'm training for my first century ride in Tehachapi CA and I'm riding for a fundraiser. https://www.generosity.com/community-fundraising/riding4rett and need all the help I can get.

Anyway in my training, I've discovered that I do about a 75-80rpm cadence, but I can't seem to get over 16 mph, on flat land, plus hills kill me. Does anyone have any suggestions how I can get more speed and make the hills easier to climb? I've been told I need to change my cassette, but don't know what my cassette is. Is it the rear gears? Any help will be appreciated.


texts: I let all the air out of  a used Fox RP23 shock (which I haven't ridden yet) to remove it from a frame, and a small amount of oil sprayed out along with the air. Is this normal or is my shock in need of repair?


texts: I have an 8-speed GT Aggressor Pro and I want to upgrade it to have 12 rear cogs

texts: I found a really cheap 12-speed SRAM groupset, and I want to know if I can just get a new rear wheel or if I need a new frame.


texts:
Let's say I was going to design a bike frame for a specific size of individual. I'd start with some basic frame geometries, then I assume I'd calculate the necessary member sizes, stiffnesses, etc. by calculating the force on each member in a number of standard load scenarios (i.e. maximum force applied during standing pedaling, force on seat tube when sitting, cornering at high speeds, braking, etc.) Given these forces, I'd be able to correctly size each tube/member.
My question is: what are reasonable forces to be used in these load scenarios? I assume there are some standard forces used by bicycle designers for different load cases, but thus far I haven't been able to find these loads.
(For context not relevant for this question but perhaps of interest to the casual reader, I'd like to use these forces and a generative design-based software tool (Autodesk Fusion360) to design a bike frame that is near optimal for someone of my size and desired riding style. Probably will eventually try to machine said frame from wood. I know this is not a mainstream material choice but has been used to pretty good effect here).


texts: How would I go about getting this Zefal pump to work with a Schrader valve?

texts:
I have a seemingly well-functioning Zefal pump that I'm unable to identify that has a head on that I'm also unable to identify (maybe it's just Presta?).

All my family's bikes use Schrader valves.

Would there be a sensible way to convert the pump to Schrader? As I can't identify the pump I'm struggling to find a replacement aftermarket head.


texts: Is there any way to convert a track bike to a geared bike? I have a track bike with only the rails for the wheel but I've moved out of the city and there are more hills where I am now living so would like to convert to gears if possible and rather than buy a new bike, save some cash.


texts:
My two pedals are squeaking a bit and probably need to be lubricated. But, I'm not sure which tools I need to buy to unmount them.

What's the size of the square drive sockets to get to unmount the pedals? After googling the pedal size I see that the majority are 9/16", but the square bits are usually in mm. Is 14mm the right size?
I suppose an adjustable wrench will also prove useful to remove the pedals from the crankset. Is there another component needed for that?

Below is a small picture of the pedal in question:


texts: Changing one of the chainrings on SR Suntour NEX crank?

texts:
I have a SR Suntour NEX (42x34x24) crankset and got my system really bad recently.
But as I've used the second (34) chainring most of all I would like to replace only this one.
Is it okay? Does my crank allow it?

Thanks.


texts: can I use an aluminium seatpost to install a tagalong on a carbon fiber frame?

texts:
I've been told not to put a tagalong on my carbon bike because the carbon seat post could crack because they aren't designed to withstand the lateral tension of having the tagalong mounted there.

I'm curious if it'd be OK if I were to just mount an aluminium seat post there instead, and then mount the tagalong to the aluminium seatpost.   Will that risk the frame getting cracked knowing that the tagalong will create some extra lateral tension, or is the mouth of the seatpost hole generally strong enough to withstand a little extra weight?

This would most likely be a temporary installation, so I'm not concerned about the metal/carbon corrosion issue... only about potentially cracking my seatpost hole.


texts: Why don't bikes by auto manufacturers make it into bike shops or onto the streets?

texts:
Currently I am considering getting a 'Mini' brand folding bike mail order, even though I have not seen one in a shop or in the street. This I am happy to do as it is a re-badged Dahon at a special price.

Being a niche product I can understand why bike racks are not filled up with 'Mini' folders, however, I don't know why it is that all other bikes by auto manufacturers seem to completely fail in the marketplace.

Peugeot did really well until mountain bikes came along so it is possible for an auto manufacturer to succeed at bikes. Other than the past efforts of Peugeot the only real-world evidence in the UK of the efforts of the auto manufacturers are a few bicycle-shaped-objects from mail order catalogues with tacky 'Land Rover' decals on them.

I would not mind a Mercedes road bike and a BMW mountain bike just so I could have running jokes, e.g. casually mentioning that 'I came in to the office with the beamer today', 'I parked my Mercedes in the car-park', etc. For joke-reasons alone I would have thought bikes-by-auto-companies would have enough kudos to sell. But they don't. Why is that? Do they sell well outside the UK?

In case you have not seen any bikes-by-auto-manufacturers, here is a small selection of them.


texts:
Not sure if this is the right place for this... But I'm wondering how I can make 'good' jumps. I've made a few using a 1 tonne digger.

I had the tabletop with the pallet a gap at first but I made it a tabletop for more fun. They're okay to jump, but the problem is the landing is really soft and I've watered it, compacted it, done everything I can think of any it's still loose dirt??
So my question is how can I make reliable jumps?


texts: Chain skipping on new single speed freewheeel

texts:
I just got a Colnago Master Arabesque single speed conversion from a friend who moved abroad.

It's set up as a fixie on a flip flop Hub. I flipped the wheel and installed a new single speed 1/8 freewheel, loaded up the chain but it's skipping under pressure,
wondering if anyone had any ideas why along with the below?

New chain? - will be getting a new 1/8 chain today
Misalignment, I noticed he'd probably bodged a cold set to get it to single speed, may be that the freewheel is out of alignment with the crank? - But then the fixie set up he had works fine when I flip it back.

Does anyone have any other suggestions as to why it skips so badly under even a little pressure?


texts: SR Suntour Fork Disassembly - No Screw/Bolt near Dropouts / Giant Sedona LX 2005

texts:
I have a Giant Sedona LX... probably from 2005 (?) with an SR Suntour fork on it. Magnesium...

I'm trying to disassemble the fork to inspect whether it is rusted (and will be tossed as it is not worth the effort) or needs a rebuild.

I can't find the model because it's too old. I looked on bikepedia and elsewhere, using the serial number and the bike model.

I'm trying to take the outer arms off but there is no hex bolt/screw anywhere near the dropouts. It's just circular.

Any help? I'm missing something really obvious? Thanks.


texts: Can I mix and match cogs from 2 different SRAM cassettes and still expect it to work?

texts:
My road bike currently has a 12-25 cassette on it.  I really want the cog with 11 teeth instead of the cog with 12 teeth, but I don't want to upgrade to a full 11-32.  If I were to install a new 12-25 cassette on by bike, but replaced the 12 tooth cog with a 11 tooth cog (effectively creating a franken-cassette) would it still work?  Or are the cogs in a cassette not made to be mixed and matched like this?

It's assumed that both of these cassettes would be general SRAM cassettes, but I'm not talking about cassettes like the XG-1190 that have "compatibility notices".

And as a follow up question, would I need to re-calibrate the shifting mechanism after having created this "franken-cassette"?   The number of cogs would effectively remain the same, so I'm hoping not.


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I've had my SPD touring shoes for about seven years. The cleats are the originals and are now quite worn and I noticed recently that one of them (not pictured) is at a rather wacky angle that can't be doing my pedalling action any good.

As the shoes are more or less OK, I'd like to replace the cleats.

The problem is that the cleat bolts (hex-shaped) are jammed with grit, mud, stones and whatever else I've walked on in the past 7 years. So the allen key won't go in.

Last night I tried picking the dirt out with needle-nose pliers, chiselling it with a nail and hammer and even resorted to trying to drill the bolt out. This last attempt barely damaged the bolt, but heated it up so much the bottom of the shoe started to melt.

Is there any way to prevent this from happening or to fix it when it does?


texts: Replacement timing: bottom bracket after gear and chain

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I am planning to do a massive replacement on my city bike: chain, gears (both front and rear) and also bottom bracket, as I noticed the pedals tend to oscillate to the sides when I load them.

While I can attempt changing chain and gears on my own, I prefer to let a workshop do the bottom braket. This mean that I will probably have some time inbetween the two replace actions.

Since I have read here that it is not a good idea to replace only chain or gear, I wonder if a wore bottom bracket does have a bad influence on newly mounted gears and chaing?


texts: Newbie Question: What do speeds mean on chains?

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I'm shopping for a new chain, and I noticed some inconsistencies when discussing speeds. Specifically, speeds applied to the cassette refer to how many layer of gears it has (I presume). Speeds, when applied to bikes, refers to the total number of speeds it has with the cassette (or freewheel) multiplied by the chainring on the crankset.

Soooo... what do the speeds listed on a chain refer to (ignoring the compatibility issues -- those are very well documented)?

For example, if I have a cassette with 5 gears and a crankset with 2 gears, do I need a 10 speed chain or a 5 speed chain?