texts:
Just finished building a gorgeous commuter from a fixed track frame. I've got some nice fat 700x28 tires, a SRAM automatix hub in the rear, and a disc compatible front hub. The frame has mounts for rim brakes but lacks any elegant way to route the back brake cable across the top tube.

I've currently got it wrapped up with some fabric handlebar tap and may end up making a nice stitched leather top tube protector BUT I'm super curious...what if I skipped the back brake all together and just did ONE disc brake up front?

Obviously I'll have to perfect a nice progressive squeeze so as not to go over the front and I'll definitely have to get used to shifting my weight back a bit when I brake (especially on hills) but what other down sides are there to this?

Cheers!


texts:
Can't seem to find software to track maintenance i do / is due on bike(s).

I just want to enter when i changed the chain/casette on bike A, then track how many km ive gone with it. Distance could be entered manually or pulled from stava or some such site.


texts: How are these plastic rings used on my Shimano disk brake mount adapter?

texts:
I boughtt a Shimano SM-MA-R160 Disc Brake Mount Adaptor for my bike.

It came with these black plastic things in the lower right corner of the photo below. I have a bunch and don't know what are they used for:

What are those plastic thingies called?
What are they used for?
How are they applied?
How important are they?


texts: Should I buy a cyclocross bike or road bike to do Triathlons and CX?

texts: I have a mountain bike and used it in my first triathlon without slick on. Now I'd like to get into doing triathlons just for fun, not competitively. I'd also like to get into doing cyclocross. Here's my dilemma...should I purchase a road bike and just use my Gary Fisher mountain bike for cyclocross or should I buy a cyclocross bike and use it for Triathlons? Any suggestions? Also what are the top brands for both road bikes and cyclocross bikes for a 5' female and cost range around 1K?


texts: 23 mm combined with 25 mm tyre in racing

texts:
I met a guy who mixed 23 and 25 mm for his front and rear tyre respectively.

Now thinking about it, I believe it's a pretty good idea since the rear wheel bear a higher proportion of the rider's weight. Wider rear tyres would support more weight with the same pressure as the front. It also helps reduce the wear and tear on the tyre itself.

So why don't bicycle (especially racing) run a slightly wider tyre in the rear, as the rear wheel mostly bear the weight of rider? It makes the ride more comfortable, and not aerodynamically terrible as the front is still 23 mm.


texts: I'm wanting to know what the thinnest tires i can put on my gravel bike are

texts: I'm looking to buy thinner tires for my gravel bike my bike has Weinmann U28 TL rims and right now has 700*40mm tires do I need to buy new rims to put 30mm tires in. On Weinmann's website, they say the  U28 TL doesn't come in a 700c variant so I can't find it there. The bike is a 2020 Khs grit 220 if that helps at all


texts: Better solution for uncomfortably low bars: a stem riser, or taller stem?

texts:
I've got my (threaded) stem at the maximum height, but I'd be more comfortable if the bars were higher relative to the seat. It would be uncomfortable to lower the seat any further.

I was intrigued by the idea of a stem riser as a cheaper solution than a taller stem, or a larger frame.


texts: Shimano 105 Rear Derailleur Housing Frayed

texts: While adjusting my rear shifting cables I noticed that the small piece of housing, which emerges from where the barrel adjuster is threaded in, was broken. Is it necessary to replace this or is it fine to leave it as? If I should replace it, what is the part name I should be looking for.


texts: Why do some bicycles have much bigger wheels than most motorcycles?

texts: Let's consider a mountain bike and a motorcycle. Each one has a need to be as usable as possible and overcome obstacles more effectively. Larger wheels usually mean greater cross-country ability. So what is the theory behind bicycles usually having bigger wheels than motorbikes?


texts: Rear derailleur not in line with cassette

texts:
I have just installed a new rear derailleur (Shimano Acera - RD-M360-SGS), and I feel like that the pulley has a weird angle (image below). It does shift but not sure if it's healthy. Any idea what could've gone wrong? Is it just a faulty item?
Edit (reason for installing new derailleur):
The derailleur hanger got bent, shifted down to 1 on the way home and the derailleur got pushed into the spokes: derailleur was beyond repair, but spokes survived. My local shop straightened out the hanger for me


texts:
I have a Balfa road bike which I cannot find any information on or pictures anywhere.
I would like some help identifying the bike model, the original parts, and the frame.

What I have found so far:

Cycles Balfa was founded in the early 1990 and based out of Canada. Cycles Balfa was sold to Procycle group in 2001.
Balfa BB7 mountain bike was the jewel bike of the company and looked to be the prime focus of the company.
2006 was the last BB7 produced by Procycles group and the Balfa name was no longer used.

Pictures of the Balfa road bike:

I have yet to see any road bikes made by either company.
Any thoughts?


texts:
So, a while back when I was rebuilding my vintage Shogun 6-speed, I realized that I only use 2- 3 gears on my commutes to and from school, crew, and other daily rides. The next day, I went to my local used bike parts dealer and bought a 10 speed cassette, the type that has the 3 screw- in pins on the back and plastic spacers, and tried different variations of 3 non- lockring gears; one large gear, one medium gear, and a medium- small gear, which with the required 2 lockring cogs makes 5 total cogs.

Anyway, what I was wondering about is if it is physically possible to have a gearset like this; would the gaps between gears be too big? Is there any way possible to make a 4- 5 speed gearset, and not have the chain fall in between gears or not be able to grab the next one at all?

Also, I'll upload pics soon.


texts:
I would like to replace my chainring for a bigger one.

I looked up my bike specs and it comes with a FSA CK-316BT, KSS, 42T chainring. I couldn't find any information about this, so I don't know how to buy a bigger chainring.

Here is a picture of what I am trying to replace, I am trying to replace only the chainring and not the whole chainset.

My question is, what type of chainring can I use to replace my current one?


texts: What is the middleground between permatube and normal tubes?

texts:
I've burst my third tyre in two months on my MTB, each time it's caused by something sharp penetrating my tyre at high speed ripping a big enough hole in the tube causing the slime to leak out rapidly followed by a struggle to maintain control of the bike.

So I've considered permatubes, but read that they add a lot of weight to the MTB and are rock hard, so the ride will be extra hard.

Is there some sort of middle ground? Permatubes are rock hard, but will never put me in a position where I have to walk the last 15km of a 40km trail, normal tubes I can inflate / deflate depending on whether I cycle on road or offroad, but it seems slime is not enough.

Any suggestions?


texts: 7-speed MTB cassette on 8/9-speed wheel hub, where does spacer go?

texts:
Sheldon Brown says "Add a 4.5 mm spacer before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub", but doesn't seem to show spacer placement in any picture.  My direct experience is that the spacer below the cassette put the smallest gear so high that it didn't engage the hub splines.  So which is right, spacer below or above the cassette?

I have a 20 y.o. MTB triple with 7-cog cassette, and I recently needed the rear wheel replaced (warped and cracked).  Took it to LBS, they only had 8/9 speed wheels and so told me they had to add a spacer when mounting the cassette.  No problem, I know 7-speeds are old; "you should adjust the derailleur so it doesn't drop the chain", cool I can handle that.

WRONG?  This is where they installed the spacer, which I noted but had no idea at the time might be wrong. 1,2): LBS installed spacer below cassette, which led to 3) small cog NOT able to engage hub splines. (I verified spacer thickness was ~4.5mm.)

P1:

P2:

P3:

I assume the lockring friction was all that was keeping the small gear from spinning. Turns out I could spin on that cog just fine, but standing on a climb caused immediate movement and I guess lockring breakage. As soon as I stood up, I heard a bang and my feet fell out from under me; immediately I was falling forward over the handlebars and splashed on the ground with the bike on top of me (earning road-rashed arms and a fractured elbow, plus surgery for a plate and 6 screws).  I thought I had broken the chain, but it turned out to be fine.  Disassembling to put the bike in the car, I noticed the small cog was hanging loose and the lockring was gone.

RIGHT? Playing around with the assembly aferwards, it looks like on top is where the spacer should be placed, or at least fits best.  4) Smallest cog engages hub splines as it should; 5) the tabs in the spacer just barely contact the splines.

P4:

P5:

Sheldon Brown says "Add a 4.5 mm spacer before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub", which does imply it should go under the cassette, but as my pictures show, ABOVE the cassette seems to make much more sense.

So am I right and LBS wrong?  Or am I missing something?

FYI I haven't taken the wheel back to the LBS yet (still piecing together what the failure mode was) but will eventually.  Still deciding how upset I am.

UPDATE (7/13)

I cleaned some of the grease off and took some better pics.  First to clarify P3 above, there
was a very thin spacer between two smallest cogs, I assume to set correct gear spacing.

P6:

P7 shows the buildup of parts on the hub, with the 4.5mm spacer underneath.  First 6 cogs, add gear spacer (splines completely hidden), add 7th cog (no spline contact, it just spins). P7:

And the same buildup on the original 7-speed hub; P8:

What's more interesting is these pin heads protruding from the bottom of the cassette; side shot shows how much cassette is held off spacer by pins. P9:

Because I have these pins, do I need a different kind of spacer, one with recesses?


texts: Koga touring bicycle bottom bracket loose, does it need replacing?

texts:
I have a 2009 Koga Signature high-end touring bicycle (internal hub gear, hub generator, half-open chainguard, ...). I'm cycling around 100 km/week (8½ km one-way commute) plus trips, so I've probably done over 10.000 km (bicycle+odometer is currently at the local workshop, so I can't check the exact number right now). I live in a sub-Arctic climate with 5–6 months per year of temperatures below 0°C, typical mid-winter temperatures of -20°C with extremes down to -40°C, and snow lasting from October to May. I cycle year-round and have so far surrendered to bad weather only once (on my previous bicycle, in 2008). I live in Kiruna, Sápmi, Sweden.

Since yesterday, I have noticed that the crankset moves sideways and the bottom bracket is almost entirely loose. The problem may have existed before, but it should have been significantly less severe or I would have noticed earlier. Although cycling is still possible, I didn't do so out of fear of damaging the bottom bracket shell. This morning, I brought my bicycle to the local service place, and the handyman at the workshop immediately said that it needs replacing, and ordering from The Netherlands (where I indeed bought the bicycle; as a footnote, I am positively surprised that this was the immediate reaction, as responses when I asked advice earlier were along the lines of "I have never seen such a thing before" in response to some part of my bicycle — not many people around here go regularly by bicycle, and I really do hope the people working at the local workshop know what they're doing). Ordering the part will take time, at least a week, probably longer. A long time to be bikeless :(.

Questions:

Does the bottom bracket moving sideways indeed mean it needs replacing?
Is it normal that this happens already after 2½ years, under the aforementioned conditions, on a Koga (not the cheapest kind of bicycle)? If not, might I still have guarantee? Unfortunately, it is not practical to return to the store where I bought the bicycle, as this is approximately 2665 km away.
Is it indeed potentially detrimental to continue riding, or is this fine? If it is fine, I could do so until the new bottom bracket arrives.

Similar but different questions:

Does my bottom bracket need replacing?
How do I know when to replace my bottom bracket?
Bottom bracket making noise, should it be fixed now or can I wait until regular maintenance?


texts: How can I measure cadence without attaching anything to the bike?

texts:
This is prompted by curiosity, so a cheap and cheerful solution is desirable.
I'd like to measure my cadence, not just on my own bikes but on the heavy, clunky, undergeared, undersized rental bikes I sometimes use. I don't need realtime feedback if I can record.
So a sensor that goes on my ankle (or in a pocket, but I don't always have leg pockets) would be ideal, but does such a thing exist?


texts:
I'm disappointed with my new Cannondale and it's 105 group, I expected this to be a major upgrade from my previous trouble free bike with the bottom end group set. It's done about 500 miles, had new cables, a new chain and rear derailleur re-alignment and numerous adjustments over the 5 service visits between 2 dealers and it still doesn't shift smoothly every time. Over a 2 hour mixed terrain ride it will miss-shift several times.

It seems to be mainly an issue with the 3 black colored gears in the center of the cassette, regardless of small or big chain ring. Sometimes when up or down shifting the lever clicks as normal but the chain does not move to the adjacent gear, click again and it moves and stays there until the next shift. Other times I would down shift in anticipation of a hill, the chain appears to have moved, but when I stand it slips.

Both of these issues happen randomly and spoil my riding pleasure, does anyone have any thoughts on what the issue might be?


texts: Are Shimano jockey wheels compatible between groupsets, provided same speeds?

texts:
Recently my Shimano 105 (10 speed, RD-5700) jockey wheels have started squeaking during shifting, so they'll be getting replaced.  I'm thinking about moving up to Ultegra jockey wheels for the ceramic bearings/bushings, but I don't know if they're compatible.

What are the general factors that define compatibility?  Is it more than just tooth count?  Anything specific to keep an eye out for?


texts:
I had an old general purpose bike that I wanted to use exclusively with my new turbo trainer. I ended up taking it apart almost completely and of course I did not take pictures so re-assembly was a pain and still have issues now.

Gears don't really change in many positions and result in different types of noise. One gear position worked fine so I  just used that. Now however after about 200km cycling over a couple of months it started to make a noise almost like metal sparking. It's not constant but very frequent and gets worse with higher speed.

Cleaning, oiling, using WD-40 did not resolve the issue. Neither did inflating the tire (it was very low psi). I don't see any obvious wear from friction or other damage. The axis at the center of the wheel gets really hot after 10 min at least not sure if this was always the case and if it's normal.

Can anyone see any issue in the pictures? What else is worth trying to fix this?


texts:
If I'm going out in the evening and don't want to carry a big pannier bag or rucksack, I keep my lights and whatever else in a small 'man-bag'. It's like a smaller version of a messenger bag: about 20 x 15 cm on a shoulder strap. I try to keep it towards my back rather than under my arm, to stop it swinging around, but invariably it slides out (especially on right-hand bends) and towards my front. If I leave it, it dangles under my chest and rubs on my knees as I pedal.

What can I do to keep it in place? I've tried shortening and lengthening the strap, and I've used it nearly empty or quite heavy, and it doesn't seem to make a difference.


texts:
I am looking at buying a helmet meeting ASTM F 2040, CPSC and EN 1078 safty requirements.  Are these reasonable standards and will they protect my head in an axcident?

Are these standards recognised in Canada?  If I am involved in an accident and if I am wearing a helmet meeting these standards will I be found to be partially neglegent?

(These are the helmets I am considering).


texts: Does toddler need a helmet inside a bicycle trailer?

texts: I am thinking about buying a trailer for my 1yo daughter. They are quite common in my region (southern Germany) but I haven't seen a single kid with a helmet inside. I know that there is no law that regulates it. Does trailer's manual ask to wear a helmet? Or are there any official (not necessary German) recommendations about wearing it?


texts: So I understand the difference between the sports but how diifferent are the bikes? are they essentialy interchangeable or are there special racing BMXs?


texts:
I need to replace my Z012 freewheel due to wear on my 12 speed road bike.  I can't seem to find a replacement that matches it.  The large gear has 28 teeth and the small has 13.

I bought a MF-TZ20 to replace it but the teeth on it are 1/8 in shorter and about 1/3 narrower?  The small gear has 14 teeth rather than the 13 on the original.  Will this work and if so will it effect the type of chain it will take? I need to change the chain as well.


texts: How do you tighten a Hope seat post quick release?

texts: I have a couple of these Hope seat post quick release, but I realised I don't know how to tighten it. I am referring to the adjustment on the bolt (not the qr lever).


texts:
I am currently running 2.8" 650b bontrager tyres on my MTB, I am finding that my current tyres do not have enough grip. I cannot find an aggressive enough tyre in 2.8", but I wondered about using a 2.5" tyre.

In short, I would like to know if I can use a 40mm rim with 2.5" tyres, will this have any problems or drawbacks?

Thanks in advance.


texts:
I have an Tektro Auriga Comp Hydraulic Disc Brake System. It's been running worry free for ~10 years.

But now I need to replace the rear disk brake pads (for only the second time). However the 3mm allen key holding the pads in place had rounded off. i.e. Meaning I could not take it out with an allen key. Instead I had to drill it out with a bolt extractor.

I'll need to replace this bolt but I'm not sure what it's called.

Does anyone know the name of this bolt? Alternatively can it be replaced by a different type of bolt?


texts:
My current tube was badly pierced by a screw in the street, so I wanted to replace it with a new one. The tire is a Continental 32 - 622 (28 x 15/8 x 1 1/4 - 700 x 32c), so I bought a 28" tube, exactly this one. (Actually I said in the shop that my tire was a 700 x 32c and they gave me the 28", which made sense at the point).

Then, when I put it in the wheel, it was obviously too long (excess length). How comes? Shouldn't a 28" tube fit perfectly a 28" tire? I got a 26" tube and it fits better. I'm very confused.

PS: The pierced tube was also too long, as it was folded. It's a second hand bike and it's the first time I've taken the tube out in 4 months.


texts:
Every time I have my bike serviced, the bike shop sets up the gears on a stand in their workshop. The gears change perfectly on the stand, but when the bike is on the road, the rear derailleur doesn't change smoothly, and some gears are jumped.

I've fiddled with this myself, but can't improve over the default setup. Is it possible, or does this mean the Shimano gearsets are worn/the springs worn out on the rear derailleur?


texts: i have an se dirt jumper with 4 sealed bearings in the rear hub, can i convert it from QR to solid axle?

texts: i dont want the quick release for single speed, i want to ditch the skewer for a solid axle to torque it down good for single speed...  my LBS mechanic said they couldnt do it but with sealed bearings in the hub that seems absurd, any thoughts?


texts: I have crashed on my cyclocross bike and got a dent on it's alu frame. I don't see cracks. How serious is this dent? Can it lead frame to suddenly fail?


texts: How can I lock a gear barrel adjuster that keeps moving?

texts:
My inline front mech barrel adjuster unscrews itself while riding.  It's on the down tube so I can tweak it on the move, but when I realise it's moved isn't always an ideal time. For example I shift from the big ring to the middle ring, nothing happens, but I know that clicking  the lever again will put me in the granny ring. In gloves I can only adjust it in the granny ring anyway as that's when the tension is least.

It has a spring but that doesn't seem to help; in fact it may make things worse. I've tried loctite (a not-too-hard variety I got as a sample from a loctite rep years ago, but effective on other things).  It doesn't seem to help, but that may partly be because the braze-on is likely to have grease in it despite my best efforts.  Ideally I'd fit a locking nut but there's very little space, it would have to be knurled, and the thread doesn't look like a normal one.

Yes, it's filthy, but that's mostly from yesterday's 200km ride.

So how can I lock off this adjuster (until I need it of course)?


texts: What to look for when buying a single gear bike?

texts:
I'm looking to buy a single gear bicycle. My experience with bikes is very limited, I haven't owned a bike since I was a kid. I have been mountain biking in the Lake District a few times in the last 3 years or so and enjoyed it a lot. At that time, I just hired a mountain bike.

I would like to buy a bike to to commute to and from work (8 miles/13 KM each way - no steep climbs). I'm tempted by the single gear bicycles because they require low maintenance and fitness wise they can be more of a workout.

My criteria so far is:

Has to have a free wheel,
Chain tensioning mechanism,
Brakes on both
wheels

Is there anything else a newbie like me should consider before buying a single gear bike? I'm 6'2" and weigh 10 stone.

Appreciate the help.


texts: Are all side-pull road bicycle brakes compatible?

texts:
I'm new to road bikes, but have been building mountain bikes for many years. I purchased a cheap road bike (at BSO price level) which I am upgrading for fun.

I'd like to upgrade the brakes to something quality, as the brakes it came with barely slow me down. It has some side pull, single pivot generic brakes on it, and I'm wondering if I can upgrade to side pull dual pivot name brand brakes (Shimano 105/Ultegra or similar) without any other changes.

Basically; are there things to check for that would make some side-pull cantilever road brakes non-compatible with any others?


texts:
I have recently started biking consistently: commute 2x 5km@12min from/to school + 1x 12km@22min in the evening before dinner almost everyday.

Now I started reading and viewing deeper into the "cycling diet"-thing and realized that I generally eat a lot of sugar(cookies, chocolate bars) and fat(butter) across the day and especially for dinner after a quick power-round.

My question now: Do I have to be more aware of what I am eating or is it just fine for me to eat whatever I want, like I do at the moment?

PS: I don't have any weight problems by any means (55kg@1.73m@18years)


texts: Upgrading cheap "cruiser"-type bike for commuting

texts:
My current bike is this one: http://www.amazon.com/Avalon-26-Mens-Cruiser-Bike/dp/B00BF0DDRG
To disclaim, I don't know very much about bikes, and I'm trying to get more into bikes for commuting and for pleasure. To that end, I suspect that this bike's frame and tire structure are suboptimal for commuting, because there is a shock in the frame, and also two front shocks. As well, the tires are thicker and lower pressure, and what I'm made to understand is that higher pressure is better for commuting, because the rolling friction is lowered.

Basically, what I want to do is piecemeal upgrade this bike, so that in the end I have a nice commuter bike (perhaps with all the fixings), too. My current plans are:

Get new wheels (not in the least because my current ones are not perfectly flat, and I've had to hammer the rim back into shape using a rubber mallet.
I would like a better handlebar, but the angle of the seat stem makes drop bars seem impractical.
Tires more suited to city riding (which go along with the wheels)
Longer term, get a new, lighter frame

For the record, I'm aware that it could be cheaper and would be easier to simply put away some money each month, and then outright buy a nicer bike. However, this is as much a learning exercise as a practical endeavor.

What general trajectory should I take to accomplish this upgrade to commuter bike?

I appreciate any and all advice and/or criticism!


texts: Sudden loss of air on tubless tyre, and now it won't inflate

texts:
Finding bike answers on the internet is really hard when you have no idea what you're looking for, so I'm sorry if I'm asking a ridiculous question here.

Cycling back today I went over a bump in the pavement and heard a noise come from my front tubeless tyre. Sure enough when I got off and felt the front it was quite deflated. Upon getting back home I've checked the tyre over and can't find any punctures. I then tried to reinflate it (a presta valve, which I have unscrewed and attached my floor pump to) but the valve won't take any air. When I get a proper seal and pump the air appears to go in but I think I feel it escaping from where the valve stem joins to the rim.

I'm suspecting that the valve might be busted over the bump, but I'm not sure how you can tell. Is it possible to just replace the valve in this case?

I've looked a lot around inflating tubeless tyres from scratch and the general feeling I'm getting is that it's very difficult, you should generally use a compressor. Is this the same for reinflating tyres you are not reseating? And how would I tell if the valve is dead or if I just can't get enough air behind it?

Also the valve is entirely depressible into the wheel frame (pretty much). Is that normal in the case of there being no pressure?

This is a bike I got from the shop with the intention of learning more about it as I go, and I guess here we are learning about it.

Thanks in advance


texts: How can one prevent a tube from sticking to the inside of a tire?

texts:
I was cleaning my cruiser today, and as part of that I removed the tires from the rims to give them a good scrubbing. As sometimes happens, the tubes were stuck to the insides of the tires. (This also happens with some of my other bikes sometimes.)

While I was able to slowly peel the deflated tubes away from the tires, this can't be good for them! Is there a way that this can be avoided when reinstalling the tubes and tires onto the rims? This bike has had slow leaks in the past, and I'd like to take precautions against that happening again.


texts: What is the max weight a standard bycycle would take?

texts: I would like to get back into cycling again, however over the last couple of years I have piled a few needless pounds on. I currently weight 178kg (392 lbs), would a standard bike frame withstand my weight? I'm hoping to loose substantial weight hopefully by cycling each day as I've never been much of a runner. But do I need to loose this weight before I start cycling. I had been looking at the Carrera Vengeance Mens Mountain Bike 2015 - 22".


texts: How to determine if a decline is too steep for safety?

texts:
I often find myself confronted by a steep and bumpy bit of hill on the trail, or one or two steps on the path, and end up with three possible results:

A) ride down with no trouble (usually)

B) step off the bike and walk down (often)

C) attempt to ride down and flip over my front tire when it hits the bottom/flat (only once)

I realize that this depends on conditions, technique (as in this answer), and bike (I'm tempted to blame my front shocks for my flip), but it seems like, all other things being equal, there should be a rule of thumb for this sort of thing.

So, how steep is too steep?


texts: Tiagra 4703 74mm bcd, 4 bolt small chainring

texts:
I have search the internet but to no avail to try and find a 74mm bcd 28t or 26t inner chainring with 4 bolts.

Does such a thing exist?

The nearest I can find it this but I want less than 30t:

http://picclick.co.uk/SHIMANO-FC4703-TIAGRA-10-SPEED-74mm-BCD-4-262545355186.html


texts:
My Surly Crosscheck has decals I want to remove - they are clear plastic decals with leterring on top :"Fatties Fit Fine" etc.

What is the best way to remove these without discoloring the paint job?


texts:
I have recently come into possession of a Coventry Eagle that I want to turn into a single speed bike.

The Coventry Eagle has a three speed internal Sturmey Archer hub gear, obviously on a single speed this isn't wanted or needed.

Being a frugal sort is it possible to remove a hub gear and keep the existing wheel? Or should I just get a new rear wheel?

I know I can just set it in the gear I want it to be in and leave it at that but the hub gear adds considerable weight to the back of the bike, and also ruins the look I am going for.

I carry out almost all of the maintenance on my bike and fit new components as and when needed. I can and will learn new skills if needed.

This is a project bike intended to pass time and be a bit of fun, so keeping costs low is slightly more important than the time taken. However if it gets to a point where I am getting nowhere with something and it stops being fun I will seek professional help / buy something more suited to the job.

As a side note:

I want the bike to have a similar riding position as my road bike, so I will most likely have drop bars on it.  If 700cc tires would make this easier to achieve then the removing of the hub gear becomes a mute point.


texts:
I have a few old-but-still-working bikes collecting dust. Instead of trashing them, I'd like to give them to a charity so they can have a new life. I figured we could make a list of charities who accept bike donations.

One per post, please specify location and website (if any).


texts:
I am attempting to adjust my front gears and have also been following a video to adjust the high/low position of my front derailleur.

The issue I am having is that the low adjustment is no where near the 2mm distance that the chain to front derailleur should attain. The photos below also show the distance I can achieve.

Now I am wondering;
Is the angle of my front derailleur is incorrect? If so, what should I line it up with?

I have supplied a couple of photos. Please feel free to ask for additional info.

The photo was taken while the the rear gear was on the biggest cog and the front gear was on the smallest cog. The chain is almost touching the front, pedal side of the derailleur and the chain is almost touching the derailleur at the back on the frame side.

thank you

View from the top - Click for larger

View from the rear tyre forward. Click for larger


texts:
I have a tentative first-time bike touring/camping trip in the planning stages and working out my set-up. I have a good idea of the essentials. My question is especially directed to those who have bike touring/camping experience.

Beyond the obvious, what item did you really appreciate having along? Or, what item do you really wish you had, but didn't?

A few important factors are: One, the trip is in an arid region. Two, a good 130 miles or so is quite remote. Three, it's a winter trip, but with (usually) much warmer temps than my native clime.

The item could be a spare part, an accessory, a tool, safety related, or a comfort item. Basically looking for things that a first timer wouldn't necessarily think of.


texts: Bike sizing question - are these two sizes actually that different?

texts:
Could use some advice on bike sizing. I'm in the market for a new commuter and after a lot of research I ended up picking this one:
https://www.bergamont.com/gb/en/product/bergamont-vitess-n8-belt-gent#geometry

Unfortunately it's online only so couldn't try it and returns cost £35. I'm 6'0" (183cm) with 33" inseam (84cm). I ordered the large (56) frame but when I hopped on, the top bar was too high and couldn't rest comfortably when standing over it without strong pressure down there.

I'm thinking of ordering the smaller one (52) but wanted to check with you if it's not too small (and avoid another £35 return). Comparing the two sizes - there doesn't seem to be much difference apart from the shorter stack/standover! The seat and head tube are slightly shorter (shorter stack) but the reach is the same. Does that mean that the smaller bike will fit just as well or am I missing something?

Here's a comparison of the two frame sizes (you can see the comparison if you click 'Shadow bike'):
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/#9Bergamonta0b4c789.58314d280e624.25905f788.81524g993.29239h427.82039i340j340k1446.65227l926m1194.58314n765.75095o1251.33031p1005.28465q1272.29156r1404.18714s1006.29693t31.8u40v6w7.75408x10y280z40A0B150C25D458.77624E42F172.5G30H30Z6Berg+Ma0b4c791.02661d280e642.17724f752.08989g995.28771h435.49726i340j340k1443.36749l907m1198.02661n765.60378o1248.09764p986.28465q1275.73503r1391.63503s986.28465t31.8u40v6w7.75408x10y280z40A0B150C25D458.62011E42F172.5G30H30Z

Also full geometry is on the bike website: https://www.bergamont.com/gb/en/product/bergamont-vitess-n8-belt-gent#geometry

Thanks!


texts: Shimano Hydraulic disc brakes- Lever compatibility

texts:
I am looking for practical advice on compatibility between various Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, especially the lever assembly. Currently I have two separate sets, one M446 Left lever, attached to a short hose and a caliper (front brake) and one M395 Right lever with a long hose (rear brake). I would like to have the right hand brake to be the front brake. Can I simply disconnect the brake hose and swap the levers? Do I need new 'Olives'(line inserts)?

I know some Shimano disc brakes use a Banjo bolt connection, but this is not the case for my brakes. Some sites claim that all Shimano hydraulic parts are interchangeable. Others claim that there are very small differences in the brake hose diameter for newer brakes. Is there anyone who has made such a setup work?


texts:
I normally ride regular 700c alloy wheels around town and for sport. Not deep section in any way. They're great, no noise or complaints.

Recently I got a pair of really nice mid section wheels (Zipp 303 firecrest disc).

Last time I was riding them, I noticed a "wooshing" sound when cornering hard and certain times while just riding fast.

I've also heard this noise when being approached from behind by a rider who is passing quickly, much to my chagrin. Often they are riding a nice bike with a pair of deep section carbon wheels.

Since I've never heard this on any other bike I've ridden except the one with the 303's, I've attributed the sound to the wheels.

So my question is, am I correctly attributing the sound to the wheels and, if so, why do deep section wheels sound different than a regular wheel?

If it is the airflow over deep section wheel hoops thats "wooshing", does that mean a less turbulent airflow, i.e. that of the 303's vs an alloy hoop, can and does generate more noise than a less aerodynamic wheel with more turbulent airflow?


texts: How to keep my feet cool in cycling shoes?

texts:
I went mountain biking yesterday, when the temperature was 100F / 38C. This is in Southern California in June, so that's not that unusual. The only issue I had is that my shoes get uncomfortably hot, especially the toes.

The trail I rode is just a climb to the top, then a descent back down to the start. There's no shade, and until the descent, there are no opportunities to get airflow that would help cool things off.

My shoes are SIDI Dominator. Black, of course.

I have a similar problem with my road shoes, which are the SIDI Genius 5. It's not as bad, because I'm usually moving much faster on the road, but it's still bothersome.

Buying new shoes is not an option right now, so I am looking for ideas to alter the shoes to be cooler. I want to avoid cutting holes in the shoes, so I came up with two options:

Paint the shoes white or silver. Black absorbs heat, white should reflect it.
Tape some foil on the shoes, especially the toe box. This will look goofy, and durability is questionable, but it should offer the highest level of reflection.
Duct tape. I'm thinking of the classic grey duct tape. Simple, durable, and probably a decent reflective quality.

Anyone have any better ideas?


texts: Extra power needed uphill for weight increase

texts:
How much does weight mean when going uphill?

Let's say I'm going up a mountain with 1000 m of elevation and it's quite steep: 10%. Let's also say I can maintain 250 watts. If I add 1 kg of weight to the bike, can I determine how much slower (in time) I will be? How many seconds will I lose?

Please show me the formula and calculation of this, and feel free to elaborate on the whole subject.


texts: Can a road bike stand constant 40km/h for long distances?

texts: I am planning on converting my road bike into an electrical one and I can see that I can get average speeds of 35-40kmh.  So I am planning on biking long distances at this average speed. Is it safe to do it? What can fail at such high speeds in long run, considering different types of asphalt quality. I know that it depends on the bike manufacturer, but can a generic failure be anticipated?


texts: 2mm clearance between the chainstay and the rear tire

texts:
I use a pair of club roost cross terra (27 1 3/8) on a vintage raleigh bike (maybe it's raleigh record). Originally the bike had 27 1 1/4 tires.
If I'm correct, 1 1/4 is 32mm wide and 1 3/8 is 35 mm wide.
The clearance between the chainstays and the rear tire is 2mm on both sides. Is this acceptable?
The brakes are just fine and I only use the bike for daily commuting.


texts: I just bought a frame off this kid in my neighborhood but don't know who makes it?

texts:
I bought this frame off a kid in my neighborhood for 100$. I looked like a cool freestyle frame. I built the bike up and just wanted to know if anybody had a clue to what company makes this frame?
this was on bottom bracket case opposite side of serial # GRREA21
thanks for any and all help.
SG


texts: Accidentally clipped into Shimano PD-A530 BACKWARDS -- won't release!

texts:
OK, I'll bet I'm the first person to do this boneheaded move: while waiting for a pedal wrench to remove old pedals and install new Shimano PD-A530, someone asked me to demonstrate how the shoe clips into the pedal.  Making sure I grabbed a right foot shoe and the right side pedal, a proceeded to demonstrate -- without realizing I had the pedal 180 degrees in the wrong orientation. After pushing harder than usual, it clipped in -- but it absolutely won't clip out!

Not sure if it makes it worse that my cleats are SM-SH56 "multi-release" cleats.  I really don't see how I can get them to release.  Any expert insight?

Pedals

Cleats


texts: The casing of my back tire appears to be damaged. There is one spot where it is torn, and the tire bulges out when the it is inflated. I want to know what causes this so that I don't do the same thing to my new tires. Also, if there is a way to fix this, I'd like to know how.


texts:
My limit screws' heads have gone rusty, I want to replace them for looks and to make sure they are easy to adjust on a ride. I would love hex rather than Philips heads!

Does anyone know the type of screw these are e.g. M4? Are they the same as SRAM and Shimano? I just want to put the right thing in and not put my bike out of action.


texts: Suitable upright bar brake lever for old caliper brake

texts: I want to replace my existing drop bar and levers with an upright bar and brake lever that will work with the old side pull weinmann synmetric 733 brakes, that are long reach at 65mm according to Sheldon's measurements of caliper brakes. Am I right in assuming that long reach and long pull are two different things and the upright levers I need are standard pull?


texts: "Old" vs new Shimano 9-speed compatibility?

texts: I'm dusting off a 2002 mountain bike to use for commuting, and the existing old Deore LX 9-speed shifters are shot and need replacement. It looks like the current 9-speed Shimano options might be Alivio or Acera, but I wanted to make sure that they would be compatible with my old XTR rear derailleur. A newer derailleur might perform better than a 20-year-old XTR, but I would prefer to keep the classic one on there if possible. Will this new Acera with old XTR combo work ok for me?


texts:
Are all forks the same size i.e 1 1/8th inch?

Looking to replace fork on my road bike and need some guidance


texts:
In the show Yowamushi Pedal, the main character starts out riding a mamachari or "mommy bike" that he has owned since fourth grade. Now he is in high school. In season 1 episode 3, one of the other characters points out to him that in order to go faster he needs to raise his seatpost, and also that his bike has an unusually small front chainring. His bike only has one speed, and because this chainring is so small, he has to pedal at a very high cadence to go fast. The other characters speculate that his mom had the small gear installed for "peace of mind," so that the higher cadence would tire him out and keep him from riding too far away from home.

My question: The show made it sound like this is commonly done in Japan. Is this done in North America or Europe? And if so, what is it called in English?


texts: How to clean sweat-soaked handlebars/handlebar tape?

texts: I just moved to a new apartment in a more humid climate, and while fiddling with my bike trainer setup, I've noticed that my gloves and handlebars are soaked with sweat at the end of a ride on the trainer. I know that sweat is corrosive to metal alloys, so what should I be doing to clean off the handlebars (and handlebar tape) and prevent or limit any corrosion damage? Is this something I should even worry about?


texts: I just bought some SPD shoes and pedals last night and I was trying them out (on one foot) while balancing in my living room. I ended up falling over because I couldn't get unclipped. What suggestions do you have for breaking out of the clips? Do you simply twist your foot strongly to the outside or will that damage the cleats?


texts: How should I restore braze-on brake cable housing guides?

texts:
I own a 1988 Schwinn Le Tour. It's beginning to show its age-- the original paint is chipped in many places and the frame is rusting underneath. The worst areas, by far, are around the rear brake cable housing guides on the top tube, which I believe are brazed on.

I plan to completely strip and repaint the frame. However, I'm wondering what to do about the cable housing guides.

I don't know if the original cable housing guides are worth saving (I'm not sure it's even possible to save them), but I don't have the tools or experience necessary to braze a new set onto the frame. I would like to avoid having a shop braze on a new set for me, unless it costs me less than, say, $50. (Aside: I don't even know if any of the bike shops in my area still do braze-ons.)

Aesthetically and functionally, I think braze-ons are the best choice, but I'm open to other solutions. I have found some clip-on, clamp-on, and stick-on housing guides.

I've dealt with the plastic clamp-on variety on another bike, and I found them to be absolutely worthless (they readily move around and rotate, so the cable never stays put).

I've never tried clip-on or stick-on guides, but I'm wary of what could be a similar lack of permanence-- I don't want to have to repeatedly reposition my cables because the housing guides are wiggly.

In summary, I see these possible ways to approach this (I would welcome any additional suggestions):

Attempt to salvage the original guides, if there's anything left of them under the rust. I have to imagine that this would seriously complicate the stripping/painting process.
Use clip-on/stick-on guides, or clamp-on guides that work better than the ones I've used.
Suck it up, get the proper equipment, and learn to braze.
Try to find a bike shop or framebuilder that can re-do the braze-ons (and preferably doesn't charge exorbitant amounts of money for it).

Which should I choose, and why?


texts:
I just built my first wheel following the excellent ebook from Roger Musson.  The build turned out great, but as hard as I tried, I couldn't master the technique to eliminate the spoke twist.  I've definitely ended up with a lot of spokes twisted from tightening, a few spokes twisted from loosening (in the final truing) and a few spokes that are fine (when I got Roger's technique right).

I know that the twist can release when I first ride the wheel, but I used Wheelsmith spoke prep (instead of light oil that Roger Musson recommended), so I'm wondering if the spoke prep will keep the spokes twisted.

Can anyone recommend a technique to remove the twist?  I think I read something about adding a piece of tape to see the twist, turning the spoke wrench one way to full twist, the other way to full twist and finally turning to the central neutral point between those extremes.  I'm happy to take the time to do this or any other technique that might be suggested.


texts: Passing cars on the right, and later merging into their lane

texts:
My commute takes me along a fairly busy road, with 4 lanes of traffic and parked cars along most of it. There are no bike lanes, but in some places, it's wide enough that I can easily pass traffic on the right (which is legal in my state, as far as I can tell), and in some places, there's actually a whole extra lane on the right for a block or two. However, the conditions change from block to block. On some of the blocks, there is not enough room to pass safely on the right of cars, and there are some places where the extra lane on the right no longer exists across the intersection or is filled with parked cars.

There are several times when I've passed cars on the right, either in a full lane or in the room between a lane of stopped cars and parked cars, and then realized after crossing through the next intersection that I need to merge back into the next lane. What is the etiquette of merging back into the next lane in such circumstances?

There are a few possibilities that I've tried, and all of them seem unsatisfying in certain ways.

Continue to travel in the lane that will run out until it actually does, then stop and wait for a gap in the traffic before merging in. That can sometimes require stopping and waiting for quite a while, due to busy traffic.
Signal to the left in advance of running out of the lane, check for a reasonable gap in the cars while still moving, and merge into that gap once I've determined it's safe, or fall back to the first option if that doesn't work. The problem is, this requires a good deal of judgement to tell when there's a good enough gap in traffic to merge back in, I can only glance back quickly and not make good eye contact with drivers in the lane I'm merging into since I need to be paying attention to what's ahead of me as well, and I'm not sure if I'm cutting people off too closely.
Pass the cars on the right, then pull up in front of them at a stop light so I can take the lane when it turns green. This makes me feel like a jerk, like I'm cutting in line.
Simply stay in, and take, the lane that doesn't keep disappearing. This is what I would do if I were driving a car. The problems are that I get stuck in stop-and-go traffic which slows me down, I have to breathe in the smog of trucks and busses in front of me as I wait, and I hold up somewhat more traffic as I don't take several of the block-long opportunities to make it easy for cars to pass me.
Run red lights. This way, I can actually get into the lane I need to before I have to contend with cars. The disadvantage is, of course, that I'm running red lights.


texts: Anyone know who makes these and which model it is? In the middle of the pedal I can kind of make out "C (possibly, not 100% sure)" "ARV" "E (also not 100% sure, just guessing)".


texts:
I got new Grail CF SL 8 and my headache started when I realized I cannot make headset play stop.
After tightening all the screws to exact values I can still produce play on my steering wheel.
Description, I stand over my bike and hold both brakes fully. Then I start to push bike forward and backwards and I can see my forktube covered with cap going forward and backward (gap becomes smaller and bigger depending on the movement).
All the screws inside are:

2x rear to lock the plastic plate to the fork (fixate steering wheel)
1x top cover
1x transitional plate

https://www.canyon.com/on/demandware.static/-/Library-Sites-canyon-shared/default/dw46151b4d/explosiondrawings/2020/grail/R061-01_R064-01-ME_BOM.pdf
Tnx for help in advance.


texts: What's the smallest possible tube that will work with my bikes?

texts:
I've seen questions concerning tube size but I haven't found anything matching what I'm trying to accomplish.  I want to buy a few tubes to keep around for trails-side emergencies when mountain biking.

My mountain bike setups (3 of them):

27.5, 27mm inner-width rims running up to 2.3" tires.
27.5, 30mm inner-width rims running up to 2.5" tires.
29er, 25mm inner-width rims running up to 2.35" tires.

So I'm aware that I can use as small as 26" tubes for all of these but how narrow is too narrow?  Would 1.1"-1.3" rated tubes suffice?  Keep in mind that I run tubeless and I just want to have a tube in my pack that will allow me to get back to my car if I run into more trouble than a tubeless repair kit can handle.


texts:
I bought a set of 29" Shimano Deore XT wheels (WH-M785). The front wheel has a 15mm thru axle, whereas the read wheel has a normal quick release.
Installing the rear wheel on my bike (Trek 8.6 DS 2016) is no problem, but the front wheel is. The current wheel I have uses a quick release and 15mm thru axles won't fit in the Suntour fork (NRX D-DS-RL-COIL 700C TS 265/0).
So I want to ask if this combination of additional parts will allow me to install the front wheel:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/be/en/nukeproof-conversion-kit-15mm-to-qr/rp-prod80192
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=4679 (100mm front wheel version)

I'm a bit worried about the difference between 5mm and 9mm quick release. The conversion kit is for 9mm QR, but I'm not sure the Deore XT qr I'm getting is 5mm or 9mm.


texts:
Yesterday, I cleaned my 5 months old bike using WD-40 Bike HEAVY DUTY DEGREASER and removed some dirt and brake material residue from the wheels. Now my front brakes moan.

I did go through this question and I did set toe-in to around 2 mm, which helped somewhat. Now it's just moaning, not moaning like an old train braking.

I also sanded the pad surface a tiny little bit with a 2000 grit sandpaper. The pads are clean and free from any derbies or foreign particles. They still have some 3 mm before the wear indicator.

The wear on the pads looks mostly even, but there's a bit of unevenness due to the wheel rim wear indicator, but I checked and those points are making good contact with the interior of the indicator.

I'm not really sure what to do now. Most of the searches provide me either with the toe-in solution or give results for disc brakes.


texts: Outboard bearing bottoms bracket (hollowtech II) - assessment of wear and lateral play, lifespans & when to replace?

texts:
I have a road-version hollowtech II bottom bracket (shimano 105 model - BB-R60). over the last couple of days i noticed a very slight clicking feeling as i pedalled.

removing the crankset i find that the left-hand side of the BB cup feels smooth and snug with no play. however the right sided cup has a very small amount of lateral play.

i last replaced the bottom bracket less than six months ago (at which point the old one had developed a significant amount of play after around 1000miles) and i would estimate that the new one has only done around 400miles since. These bottom brackets are non-serviceable, sealed units.

Googling suggests that it's not uncommon to get through these pretty quickly,  although this does seem odd to me as i thought that outboard bearings were supposed to be more durable and I have hardly ever had to service, never mind replace, the older BBs on my older bikes.

i'm about to leave in tour again  (around 3000 miles) and I'm wondering how to interpret this small amount of lateral play

will it definitely get worse, and if so how quickly?
should i just replace it now, or should i take another one with me and replace it when it has developed more play?

i'm also worried that this relatively new bottom bracket is already showing signs of wear.

is this indicative of me doing something wrong during installation and/or usage?

it's worth noting that although the first bottom bracket came with the bike, i did replace the crankset a few hundred miles before  before it started to show play so feasibly i could have done something wrong then; i could have possibly overtightened the plastic pre-load screw on the crank. the second BB didn't have an ideal installation as i did it at the side of the road on tour and there was a tiny tiny amount of drizzle, but i don't think i overtightened the pre load and if any water got into the shell it was only a minute amount.

as it's a touring bike it  has also had a fair amount of use in the rain and with heavy rear panniers and the occasional rough road.

is this a normal lifespan for these BBs? i.e do i need to be thinking replacing the current BB and taking another one or two spares with me for a 3000 mile trip? so far my BBs are looking like their average lifespan is going to be around 1000 miles and i'm planning on cycling 3000 over 3 months...


texts:
I'm curious as to whether or not anyone knows who makes this brake lever or if anyone makes one like it. I know the bike in the image is a Montreal-based company called Bassi that primarily sells through the shop in the same town called "C&L Cycles" however I emailed them and received no response. I appreciate any and all help! Thank you!

Here is another image of the brake lever on the bike


texts: I want to replace my old lever shifters (Shimano 515) with something a bit more modern. Can I do this without replacing the front and rear derailleurs. And which shifter would be a simple, and or equivalent replacement.


texts:
I have a road bike tyre that is proving impossible to get off its a 700x25 on a set of tubeless ready rims (i know these can be more difficult to deal with).

It was very tight to get on in the first place.

I have tried a number things. I cannot free the bead to get a tyre lever under.

I have tried using my thumbs (led to blistering), standing on the tyre and pulling the rim, as well as a set of pliers to pull on the tyre but it won't come loose.

Any suggestions? I am considering cutting the tyre off if anyone as any experience of this that would also be useful.


texts: My 27 year old Raleigh had the very first Rock Shox on them. I replaced with a set that cost about $160. I also upgraded the head set with a new style clamp on stem. Everything felt great until I rode and found that when I turn, the handle bars want to stay and it takes some force to return them to the straight position. I adjusted the headset so the turning is very smooth on the work stand but again the headset feels like it wants to flop to either side. The front wheel is a lot further forward than the original Rock Shox.


texts:
I have a single speed with 48/16 ratio with flip-flop wheel.

I'm considering to change fixie cog to 19t, as it is easier to skit and has more skid patches.

Will I need to enlarge my chain too?


texts: Relatively new tube exploded by itself without any external force

texts:
This morning I heard the tube in the rear tire explode (I never heard a tube explode before. It was quite loud).
I hope someone can shed some light on why this may have happened (and how to prevent it).

Details:

The bike was inside a house and nobody had touched it for 12 hours.
It is a road bike. The tire says pressure should be between 90 and 125 PSI, and just yesterday I inflated it to 110 PSI and after that went for a ride just fine.
The tube was very new, it had only 4-5 days.
The tube has a small hole is one of the sides. The tire has a little crack on that spot. It is very thin and about 0.5cm (0.2 inches) long. The rim seems fine.
The tire was still in place, it did not come off of the rim.
Two weeks ago it happened with another fairly new tube. That time I didn't hear the explosion, but one morning I found the tire deflated without explanation. Both tubes have the hole in exactly the same place, so I guess the cause is related.
10 minutes before it exploded, I opened a door-window next to it, so the temperature dropped a bit suddenly. However, I'm in California so the temperature is very mild. It's not cold at all.
The bike is in the sun during the day.


texts: I've got a 2015 premium bmx. When I start to pedal, the left crank kinda slips, if that doesn't make sense, let me siimplify it. When I pedal, it's like it doesn't grab the chain or something, like it pedals and moves the chain but the wheel doesn't spin, only at first tho then it rides fine. But only when I try to pedal from the left side. I also have a freecoaster, maybe that's why but I don't know


texts:
I've ridden a shaft driven bike once, when biking in deserted mines in Limburg.‡ They used shaft driven bikes because the mines are damp, and a shaft can be enclosed completely, protecting it against the moisture.

I like the clean look of a shaft driven bike, as opposed to a chain driven bike. So I'm interested in getting one. But I found some information (Dutch) that hints at a shaft being a bad choice for a drive train, due to high wear on the gears.

Does anyone have experience with riding shaft driven bikes? Is the wear on the gears that bad? Are there any other issues I need to be aware of?

‡ An experience I can recommend to everyone. With a dynamo fed headlamp, if you stop, it's pitch black all around you.

I used the term "cardan shaft" in an earlier revision of this question, but I think now that use was incorrect. A cardan shaft seems to be a shaft that transfers rotation at an angle, using two universal joints. Drive shafts in bikes usually use gears.
"Cardan" however, is not a brand name.


texts:
I recently bought a Swissbike X5 (same as the Montague Paratrooper, but labeled Swissbike and matte black).

It came with Kenda Kinetics 26" x 1.95" (front and rear)  that I'd like to replace.

Due to good experiences with Schwalbe, I'd like to buy the Nobby Nic, but there are many different Nobby Nic models, as well as widths.

I'm going to use the bike mainly for fun riding in the forest.


texts:
Can I use a trainer with a mountain bike?

I want to the same bike off road at weekends so I don't really want to change the setup of the bike.


texts: Preventing downtube cable stops from sliding out of place

texts:
I've got a vintage road bike with no braze-ons for shift cables: Instead, it's got a cable stop holding the cables against the downtube and parallel to the chainstays. Unfortunately, it seems to slide up the downtube with use, which not only causes the shifting to get all wonky and eventually fail but it also has created a nasty, long scratch along the underside of my downtube:

Moreover, I'm not sure if this is aggravating the problem or not, but the shift lever for my big cog only travels through half of its whole motion before the cable becomes so taught that it doesn't go any further — If you apply enough pressure at this stage, it makes some angry creaking noises, which I assume to be the cable stop moving (but I can't be sure without methodically trying to reproduce it, and thereby causing even more damage to the frame):

How can I fix my shifting setup so that it doesn't go out of whack due to the cable stop moving under stress? — I've tried putting rubber tape between the cable stop and the frame, but that doesn't seem to accomplish much (as visible in the photo above).


texts: Sigma bc 1609 kmh flashing but not counting

texts:
I've just presented a new Sigma BC 1609 (wireless), assembled, put the sensor on the fork and a magnet on a spike, set the wheel size, looks fine.
But the speedometer does not work - it is just flashing?
Any hints?

Thank you.

update
replied the question


texts: Wipperman connex master link on a shimano chain?

texts: Is it possible to use a wipperman connex master link on a shimano dura ace chain? I read a comment on a site elswhere that said this was possible, but is it safe? Or safe-ish?


texts:
I've been riding my bike for a while it's a 55cm square frame. I recently used the online calculator on competitive cyclist. It told me I'd need a seat tube of 53 and top tube of 57cm.

So I'm riding a bike essentially too small for me...

It's not a massive amount out, so I'm sure I can tweak things for the correct position. Layback seatpost, slamming the stem etc.

--But what is the natural position on the bike to ensure no stresses on the back or wrists?

--What are the signs that something is too small?


texts: How to avoid/deal with exhaust fumes when riding in traffic

texts:
I live in Chicago, and I ride through the downtown area and other congested streets to and from work every day. Often when I am at a stoplight, I am directly behind or next to several cars belching exhaust. I can't help but smell and inhale it. Sometimes I try to hold my breath, but I can't always hold it for long enough. It smells bad, and I do not wish to inhale carbon monoxide. Is there some great product out there, or maybe just some tips and tricks from other city riders, on how to avoid inhaling exhaust fumes while riding through heavily trafficked urban streets?

Edit

I believe my question is similar to or the same as the suggested duplicate about "how to protect yourself from pollution", however that question has no usable answer (The answer is basically "a gas mask would help, but of course you cant go biking with a gas mask"). I believe my question is not the same as "is pollution a problem" because I am not making/seeking a judgment on pollution, positive, negative, or otherwise, I am just attempting to avoid it/minimize my exposure.


texts: Need help choosing my chainring and size whilst moving from 3x7 to 1x7

texts: If have a 6/7 speed cassette and I’m thinking of changing to single-speed in my front chainring, what chainring size would anyone recommend?


texts: New to Drop bar Road Bike, severe upper back/neck pains

texts: Took my new Cannondale out yesterday and 40 mins into ride started getting pains just below neck top between shoulder blades, the bike is the right size a 56 I am 179cm, is this due to me not being used the drop bar posture or am I doing something wrong ? Have been told it may take a few rides for the muscles to get used to the posture, just mystified any advice would be welcome.


texts: What is the name of the part between a wheel hub bearing and the fork, and where can I find a replacement?

texts:
I have a mountain bike (2017 Orbea Loki 27+ H30) and at some point I've lost the piece of the front wheel that fills the gap between the bearing, and the fork. As a result, the front wheel has play side-to-side, and is not able to be corrected as usual by adjusting the QR axle or hub. The wheel is a SunRingle Duroc 40 with Boost spacing.

I took the bike to a local bike shop and they said I need a "hub spacer" and should contact the bike manufacturer (Orbea) for a replacement. I emailed Orbea and they did not provide me with a part number but assured me that it's a "standard part" and should be easy to find. I tried searching for "hub spacer" in combination with my wheel, but wasn't able to find anything like it.
What is this part called, and where might I find a replacement?


texts: There don't seem to be many (or any?) carbon wheels for 9 speed bikes

texts:
I have a 9 speed Shimano Sora road bike and I would like to get some nicer wheels without upgrading the bike or anything else at the same time.

Carbon wheels seem to mostly (or entirely) 10/11sp?  Can any carbon wheel be made to fit a 9 speed bike with some sort of spacer?


texts:
I have seen thru axles mentioned in various places but never explained or even described.

I found a post on another site where someone asked the same question and got lots of debate in response, but no explanation.

What is a thru axle? What problem does it solve?

Thanks.


texts: Given that original Shimano SPD-SL cleats are not the cheapest, and do wear down quite quickly, looking for cheaper alternatives.  Have seen various aftermarket options for half the price.  Has anyone any experience in using these?


texts: What is the proper way to paint a bicycle?

texts:
I started a while back restoring a custom-built tandem bicycle, and I sanded it down to bare metal and just used spray paint (Rustoleum I think, took the bike completely apart to just paint the frame) to give it 5 or so coats, then a clear coat... but the paint still comes off pretty easy. To paint it up I just hung it up by the back forks and did light coats. Anyways, it looked good in the end, but the paint still comes off pretty easily.

What are the steps that someone should take to fully paint a bicycle that already has a coat of paint on it, that is tough and good looking?


texts: Vibration from pedals at slightly higher speeds?

texts:
I've bought myself a new bike (BTwin Riverside 120) and I've taken it out for a couple of spins as of yet.. When speeds go above, say, 20-25 km/h (12-16 mph)  (I'm giving a rough estimate based on what strava told me), there's a distinct vibration of sorts that I feel when I'm pushing onto the pedal to propel the bike forward, and the lagging foot (I really don't know the appropriate word, if any that exists) doesn't feel any vibration even at high speeds. The vibration does not happen on speeds around 10 km/h (6mph) at all though.. What can be the reason for this? Is that normal?
Pardon me for being stupid but I'm just speculating here, can it be that the air cutting through my shoe soles is causing me to feel the vibration on my foot? (I may be pedalling wrong).
The saddle height is lower than what it needs to be for my height because the bike's primary use is done by someone shorter than I. I say that because my foot is mostly not parallel to the ground when I'm pedalling, it's mostly pointing up.


texts: Chainring loose around drive-side crank arm / axle

texts:
The splined thing in the picture moves very slightly in relation to the chain rings - it seems to be worn. I don't know how to remove it, or if it is even supposed to be removed. This is an old bike and it might just be easier to buy a new crank arm.
When I'm cycling it causes quite an annoying clicking sound on every rotation of the crank arm.
I think it's a press-fit crank arm looking at this:
How to remove a (press fit?) crank arm from a chain ring?

Update: my friend hit it with a pointy thing and a hammer which fixed the problem...for about a mile.


texts: How should I store inner tubes to maximize their shelf life?

texts:
The LBS's in my area tend to have major sales around the same time once or twice a year. During this time, I can get replacement tubes at about half their normal price. I can buy several tubes, enough to last a year or more.

What is the best way to store the tubes so they last as long as possible?


texts:
After a complete tear down and reassembly I can't seem to find the right tightness adjustment for my threadless fork / headset. If I loosen it to the point that the front fork turns freely, there's play in the system and every time I apply the brakes there's a small clunk (that annoys the heck out of me). If I tighten the top nut to the point we here there's no more play, the fork binds up such that the fork doen't turn by itself due to gravity when the wheel is attached, if you know what I mean - suspend the bike and tilt the frame and the steerer should turn on its own.

It's a horrible feeling riding with a steerer that's too tight, but the looseness is also pretty annoying.is there an adjustment I'm not doing right? My process is (after completely servicing the headset and bearings) to tighten the stack using the top nut, then tighten the clamping nuts, then slightly back off the top nut.


texts:
I am getting serious pain in my hamstrings for the past couple of months while cycling. I warm up before I get on the bike and once I go back the road a bit the pain starts in both hamstrings. I got physio on lower back, a bike fit, foam rolls every night still no good. If I stand up while cycling I get relief until I sit down again and once I get off the bike no pain what so ever in my hamstrings, nothing feels tender. Could anyone help people are starting to think it is all in my head.

Thanks


texts: How strong is a chain link? How about half a chain link?

texts:
I had some intermittent clanking noise on yesterday's ride, thought the chain just needed cleaning and derailleur aligning. But got home to find that one side of one chain link had broken, so only the other side was holding the chain together. The broken side was occasionally clanking against some of the drivetrain components.
I had pushed my 110kg system weight uphill and out of the saddle, which got me wondering how much strain the broken link could have taken.
Are chains designed to withstand a certain amount of force along their length, and how much would a half-broken link compromise that? Or is it when a chain bends around sprockets that it's more vulnerable, not just straight-line force?
Edit - I suppose the half link question is whether a chain actually loses any 'strength' if only one side panel is present on a link, or whether the dual side panel design is solely to locate the chain over the teeth. I'm thinking it would lose some strength, but nowhere near what I would imagine, and probably much less than half its original strength.


texts: Will these new wheels be able to replace the old ones?

texts:
I just bought a Trek 7.1 fx bike off Facebook marketplace and took it in to get it looked at for a once over. What came back was a broken axel in my rear wheel which is the biggest problem, and why now I can’t ride it till it’s fixed. I started looking for options for a new wheel specifically used near me and found a 700c wheel set which I think may work but was hoping one of you could steer me if I should do it.
My current wheels have a 622x19 and the new ones I’m looking at (a set) are 622x18, question one, are these differences okay for my bike? Does that “18 vs 19” make a difference in how my bike will ride?
Secondly, my bike is a 7 speed on the rear hub and these new wheels are for an 8-9-10 speed hub. Will these actually fit to my bike? Is there any information that I should get to check if these will fit?
Both brands of wheels are bontrager the current ones on the bike are bontrager at-750 and the ones I’m looking at buying are bontrager Camino


texts: Usage experience with anti-theft GPS trackers

texts:
Does anybody have any actual experience with anti-theft GPS trackers like BikeSpy? Their website looks terribly unprofessional and there are only very few testimonies online, but the idea is intreaging. I am especially interested in hearing from people who have tried products like BikeSpy in the US, since they rely on cell phone networks.

Are there recurring costs?
How long does the battery last?
How difficult is it to remove the product with common tools?
How reliably does the unit report unauthorized movement?

I have found the following similar questions, but none of the answers seem to come from people who have actually used the products in question:

Are there electronic/active theft deterrents for bicycles?
GPS bike tracking (locks)

I have a good lock but live in a metropolitan area with ridiculously high rates of bicycle theft. I am not looking for an alternative for locking my bike, but for "insurance," in case my bike gets nicked.


texts: How are the wheels spokes laced in the bikes you buy at shops?

texts:
Is there a machine that does the lacing  or does it have to be manual work?
And in the first case, what does it look like and how does it work?


texts: Long post v-brake (or canti) shoes? (Canti studs not sufficiently inboard)

texts:
Someone built me a small, custom recumbent bike recycled from older bike frames. He did a generally decent job, but seems to have messed up placing the rear canti studs. They should have been spaced inward toward the rim at least 5mm per side. At least, that's the estimate I get doing some measuring and initial setup. Where there's only about 4mm of pull left there (pads are contacting the rims at that point) there should be about 40-45mm between the noodle end and the right lever -- according to tektro's directions.

I had first hoped to solve this problem by finding longer threaded post brake shoes. No one seems to market anything like that as a feature. The posts on these are 25mm, which look about the same as any others I've had in the past. I found nothing longer.

Next, I tried to approach this with a pair of female-male m6 spacer on each side, but I can't get enough male threaded post to install correctly.

My other potential option is (not my fave) canti brakes since he did put a canti stop bridge up top, just out of the photo. However, I'm not sure I won't have similar issues with the spacing, depending on post length. It appears that if I use a smooth post canti, like an altus, I might be able to get the far enough inward, since they secure by a loop pulling on them perpendicular to the direction of the post. (Probably should have gone for the canti brake first -- cheaper than the spacers were!)

But not knowing the length of those posts (anyone?) I wasn't sure they'd solve the problem, and I wanted to avoid having to buy new brake levers as well, plus match the front brake to the back. (On this bike, the front doesn't carry much weight, so it should really have a weaker brake than the back to avoid locking up and washing out...)

The final option that I brainstormed was to use some 5mm or 7mm thick by 20mm wide aluminum stock and build a short adapter that attaches to the inside of the brake arms (toward the rim, thus providing the inward spacing) and secures with an M6 screw to the brake arms where the shoe normally mounts. Offset about 8mm to the side (opposite, across the arm center point, for max rigidity) a 6mm hole to mount the brake shoe as normal, with the beveled spacers for making angular contact. Up/down would be accomplished with the normal slot.

That would give me the spacing and the pieces are thick and short enough that they shouldn't flex much. It's a couple hours work with hand tools, I guess.

Adding sketch. The stock I've got is good quality, pretty stiff, and mounting as shown in the sketch actually places the shoe post a similar distance from the middle of the lever arm as the stock mounting slot, and the flats of the middle of the arm are pushing the adapter toward the rim too. Second photo shows midline of the brake arm better than my sketch.

Anyone ever run into a similar issue? Anyone know of longer threaded post shoes or happen to know what the post length is for smooth post canti shoes?

Builder is willing to take it back, redo the rear end, which would mean re powder-coating as well, plus two trips shipping across the country. He won't charge for the fix of course, but it seems like a lot of effort and material, so I'd like to explore less resource-intensive options first.

Failing longer studs, taking any and all ideas!


texts: I have a 2014 Giant Trance with an Overdrive 2 tapered steerer (1-1/2 - 1-1/4). As we know, the standard tapered steerer is 1-1/2 - 1-1/8 inch. I want to replace my OEM fork (Fox 32 Float Evolution CTD 140) with a more advanced Fox or RS. Is it possible to fit the bike with a standard steerer? I know that it would mean changing all the front end of the bike (fork, headset, stem) which I am prepared to do. Is there a headset to accommodate my frame and new fork. Would a standard tapered integrated headset do? Has anyone have an OD2 Giant bike here that have done the same exercise? This bike is problematic!


texts: Looking for help in deciphering what this decal reads?


texts:
I have regular lower back pain (mostly mild, with severe episodes during which I generally stay home; there's nothing wrong with my spine, I just sit at a computer too much).  I just started biking to work - it's just a couple of miles and pretty flat, but having my back arched still doesn't feel very good.

What biking position should I try for?  Any particular adjustments to my bike I should consider?


texts: triple chainring with with single speed freewheel

texts:
I have a Hero Sprint Axis (with 18T freewheel).I ride mostly on flat roads, but want more top speed and a lower gear for starting from standstill. Is it possible to just install a triple chainring with no modifications to the rear freewheel?

Can i get this triple chainring online in India? (or any dealer in Kharagpur?)


texts: What is the weight difference between frame sizes?

texts: I was wondering if any one has an idea of how much more weight a larger size bike weighs. Specifically S-works Tarmac. So for example what would the difference in weight be between a 56 compared to a 61? 100g, 400g any idea?


texts:
I'm really struggling to get the crank off my bike. I got a crank puller from ebay but haven't been able to get it to work.

Have I got the wrong crank puller or am I not using enough force? If it's the former, does anyone know what crank puller I should use?

Image of the crank: https://screencast.com/t/uemyYZb9i

Image of the crank puller and the crank: https://screencast.com/t/D5YONYxg


texts:
Penny-Farthings aren't cheap as anybody who owns one will attest to at £1,300+ for a UDC Penny-Farthing. So I'm keen to secure it from theft, especially since I'd need to be able to evidence that I made reasonable efforts to safeguard it, were it ever stolen for insurance purposes!
However, as a Penny-Farthing doesn't have a closed frame like a safety bicycle but rather a spine, the standard security chain solutions which require the chain to loop back on itself effectively reduce the chain length 50%. So by the time I run the chain through the forks and wheel, there's not enough slack to secure it to a fixed object! This leaves the thief free to toss my Penny Farthing into the back of a pickup truck where they remove the chain with an angle grinder at their leisure.
So conventional security chain solutions don't really work given the unique shape of a Penny-Farthing. Any ideas on how to secure a Penny Farthing?!?!?


texts: Faster Wheels & Tyres for my Cyclocross bike

texts:
I ride a cyclocross bike for commuting but want it to go faster! Instead of buying a new road bike, I'm thinking about new wheels & tyres. My journey is pretty flat at the moment.

The currents wheels are 700 * 35 and its using a 9 speed cassette with disk brakes.

So my question is, what are my options do I have , how small a tyre can I fit to the 35 wheel ?


texts: Hello I have some small pitts of rust on my 1980 Raleigh royal frame. I don't want to strip the paint and sand blast it are there any non invasive treatments? Some of the chrome surfaces also appear to have been eaten away is there anyway to repair the chrome or is it a lost cause?


texts: Replace chain at 0.5% wear, or 0.75% wear?

texts:
Why do chain wear indicators have an indication for 0.5% wear and one for 0.75% wear? Are both measurements included because there is some personal preference from mechanic to mechanic, or rather are there separate uses for each?

I find myself asking this because right now I have a chain that measures at least .5% but less than .75% and I want to replace it before it negatively impacts the cassette teeth. For what it's worth, it's an 11 speed chain.


texts: How to safely remove dried tire sealant from a carbon frame?

texts: I have a carbon mountain bike frame with some good sections of tire sealant stuck on it (Stan's specifically).  If there an easy and/or safe method for cleaning unicorn juice off without hurting the frame?


texts:
A little over a decade ago now, I had purchased a brand-new Raleigh M50 mountain bike.  Though whether or not I really need a "mountain bike" could be very much up to question, I greatly enjoyed the bicycle regardless.  However, various circumstances have brought me to the point that I'm fairly certain it will cost me nearly as much to replace the bike as it would to get it in good operating condition again.  So, I've junked it and am considering my options for a new one.

Since I did so much like that particular model, my ideal option would be for a brand-new Raleigh M50.  Since no such thing exists this year, I'm looking to you guys to help me find a comparable model.

Some particular features (pardon if my verbiage isn't quite industry-standard) I liked about the bike included:

Click-shifting, trigger-style gear changers
Finger-tip braking levers

I'd actually had some trouble adjusting to these at first, with one "learning experience" involving an over-the-handlebars tumble at the end of a hill.  But I eventually grew to really like them.

Front suspension

I like the shocks in the front, but am quite happy to have none in the rear.

Quick-release seat and wheels
Water bottle holster

A minor feature to be sure, but still nice to have.

A really solid-feeling frame

Added after some research:

Mechanical rim brakes:  I have no experience with using or servicing the newer hydraulic or disc brake systems.  I feel that I would trust the mechanical rim braking systems further, since they seem to be much simpler and therefore (I expect) more durable and reliable.

Feel free to politely dispel me of any misconceptions on this point, (I'm happy to learn about the new technologies) but my stance on this in regards to a final purchase decision will not likely change.

Some additional points brought up by @zenbike:

Inexpensive, but good quality: A "real" bike, built by a professional, which happens to be cheap.

This was absolutely a big selling point for me.

Off-road capable: Regardless of whether you need or use this option, it feels good.
Commute friendly: Though @zenbike disagrees, I found this bike very enjoyable during my daily commutes, which typically lasted 1/2 hour or more one-way.  I was even pretty comfortable with it on one particular 3.5-hour trip.  But, I think I did purchase a softer seat for it which probably helped.
Fun.

My needs when I first bought the M50 weren't too outlandish, but I liked the feeling of versatility and ruggedness the mountain bike gave me.  Though I'd probably never test it to its fullest measure, I felt security in knowing that it could certainly deal with whatever I did put it through.

Most of the time, my daily commute was about 10 miles one-way.  Later, the commute was much longer but mostly done via city bus.  Still, I did occasionally get the wild idea to run the whole 20+ miles on the bicycle myself.  This would all be across your general urban terrain - mostly sidewalks and streets, but occasionally across long stretches of grass (where there was no sidewalk, and riding on the road was just plain insane).  Living in Florida also means that steep inclines are few and far between.  Of course, having grown up here also means that most mole-hills feel like Mount Everest to me when I have to ride up them.

Today, my needs are much simpler.  I'm mostly looking for something to ride alongside my young daughter, but also would like to get back out on my own now and then for a bit of joy riding.  I'll probably be sticking a lot more to the sidewalks than I used to, but would still enjoy knowing I can take my bike practically anywhere without much trouble or worry of breaking it.  I'm much more concerned about durability than I am speed or weight.

So, what do you guys figure?  What's the "Raleigh M50" of today, or what else might be a good fit for my needs/wants?


texts: Mino quick link geometry adjustment, what can I do with it?

texts:
My 2017 Trek Fuel EX 5 has a Mino quick link in the rear triangle, but I don't understand what position I should put it in.

Could somebody explain what purpose each position is best suited for, e.g., jumping, technical, XC, DH ?

Thanks.


texts: Bailing out with SPD pedals on a mountain bike

texts:
I got a new mountain bike a year ago, with SPD pedals. I'm OK with these on a road bike (that I don't normally crash), but on a mountain bike when I crash I usually can't jump off the bike like I used to. I can handle stopping OK, but when I'm about to crash I can't jump off and land on my feet.

Do I need to loosen the pedal settings? Should I unclip when I'm getting to a hard part on the trail? (I have pedals that work both ways.) Or should I just practice crashing until I get it right? What do "real" mountain bikers do?


texts:
Is there a reason why no companies are manufacturing front suspension for cx bikes?

Is it limited by the UCI rules?
Would weight mean it would offer no additional value?

I would like to know if a light weight, low travel (<80mm), skinny stanchion (<28mm) would make any difference to speed when off-roading. Comfort wise I imagine the difference would be huge.

I have seen a picture of Lemond racing with a Rockshox fork so definitely been thought of in the past for road bikes.


texts: Five flats in 4 months on new Giant Contend3 (XL)?

texts:
All my life I have bought used speed bikes.  I finally sprung for a new bike which I use to commute to work (6 miles each way).  It's a Giant Contend3 (XL).

I keep getting "pinch flats".

The bike store experts tell me it's because I'm not pumping enough air into my tires.  I have a pump.  I am now pumping twice a week.  (It is baffling to me that skipping pumping for a week would result in a flat, as I have always just pumped my tires once in the spring and left it at that).

I got another flat yesterday, despite my regular pumping.

I'm ready to write off the new bike and go buy another used bike.

Is there something else I should be considering?

In response to the comments below, I weigh 220 lb (100kg) and I target 100 psi (6.9 bar) on the gauge.


texts:
In a race this weekend I found myself in a breakaway with another rider.  We were getting updates on the size of the gap we had opened from the race official who was on a motorcycle.  This was extremely useful but I found myself wondering if the information could be more useful if I understood the math of the timing a bit more.

So, for a gap of a given time, say 30 seconds, is there a good rule of thumb for how the speed of those in the breakaway relates to the speed of the chase group?

ie - If I'm riding at 25 mph and have a 30 second gap, and my speed drops to 20 mph, assuming the chase group maintains their speed (assuming they are cooperating and working together with a larger group) how long will it take the chase group to reel me back in?

Is there a good way to figure this out quickly while on the bike?


texts: Replacing pneumatic bicycle tires with Honeycomb Hole non-pneumatic tires

texts: Can I replace my 24×1.95" pneumatic bicycle tires that came stock on my Yukon Trail Navigator SF24 ebike with 24×1 3/8" Honeycomb Hole type solid non-pneumatic bicycle tires?


texts:
There is a bicycle dealer in my area selling "Olympia" bicycles. I haven't seen any athlete riding those bikes and I was unable to find any reviews on the internet. I know that the company is one of the oldest ones in Italy.
What I want to know is where do the Olympia bicycles stand in comparison with the other top brands like GIANT, Trek, BMC e.t.c.


texts: Do tires with worn sidewalls need to be replaced?

texts:
My bike needs a bit of a tune up, particularly the tires since the back tube has a hole in it.  The rims on the bike are 26"x1.5" and the current tires are 26"x2" and both have great tread, but the sidewalls look like they're worn through in spots (I can actually see through the fibers in a few spots of the sidewalls).  Should I replace the tires, too, or is replacing the tube sufficient?  Also, is a 2" tire OK on a 1.5" rim?

Here's what it looks like:


texts: Are there any things to avoid when being given a free bike?

texts:
Someone has just given me a free mountain bike (No obvious branding on it, but its got a 21-speed Shimano gear system and a shock absorber between the front and back of the bike in the middle of the chassis). It's been sitting in a shed, un-touched for about 2-3 years.

It's clearly in need of a service (lubricating, replacing the brake cables as their ends are frayed). But is there anything in particular that I should look for which would indicate that it's not worth repairing and that I should give it to someone else for parts?


texts: Can I swap the lock out on one suspension fork for the remote lock out on another?

texts: Both forks are rockshox. One has lock out, the other has remote lock out. Can I swap them around, and is it easy or are any special tools needed?


texts: Has anyone had success mixing and matching cassette sprockets for custom ratios?

texts:
I have a 9 speed rear cassette that I am looking to replace some or all of. I would love to have a 9 speed cassette with a 10 tooth or even 9 tooth top gear, but the combination doesn't seem to be available with existing cassettes, so I am contemplating a mix and match affair.

I know each sprocket is indexed and has particular profiles to smooth the down and upshifts depending where around the cassette the shift happens, so this might make the idea a bit crap.

Alternately can someone point to an existing 9 speed cassette that is 10-28 or 9-28?


texts:
How to clamp a brifter to the bar more securely if the clamp is already very tight?

More detail: After a small crash (no scratches on me, just a few on the bike), one Shimano Ultegra brifter was wobbling relative to the handlebar. I tightened the clamp bolt that attaches the brifter to the bar as much as I could, but the brifter was still wobbling. I undid the clamp, removing the brifter from the bar and saw that the clamp is a bit rusty, but looks intact. Retightened the clamp bolt as much as I could (the hex key broke), but the brifter is still wobbling on the bar. Before the crash, neither brifter wobbled.

There is no bar tape or anything stuck under the clamp or brifter edge, I checked before retightening.

The Shimano dealer manual does not give additional info besides tightening the clamp bolt (http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-ST0002-05-ENG.pdf).


texts: Using only the brake lever, separated from an integrated shifter/brake

texts:
I have an old Shimano STX integrated shifter/brake. The shifter part is broken.

Can I separate the shifter part, with reasonable effort, so I use only the brake and get a new shifter?

From what I could see, it is a single piece of plastic housing (I am not sure if there are tiny screws or rivets, perhaps hidden; I do not have access to the bike right now), so I would say no, but suggestions are always welcome.... Who knows. This shows the picture below.

EDIT: This question is related to Suitable Shimano integrated shifter/brake replacement for old STX

EDIT2: I found a couple of related posts

http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/679944-can-you-remove-brake-levers-shimano-ef-50-integrated-shift-levers.html

http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12966554

http://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/can-i-separate-my-shimano-shifter-and-brake-lever.165662/


texts:
Marinas are often located a bit outside from town centers and shopping locations. So a bike might be a good thing to have aboard a sailing boat. Given the limited space on such a vessel I'm thinking about getting a folding bike.

What should I look for in a bike and storage location, considering that the environment, even inside the cabin, will be quite salty and might cause the bike to rust faster than I'd like.

Currently I'm mostly doing short trips so I can store it most of the time on land, but I plan on going on a larger trip around Northern Atlantic once I feel comfortable and properly equipped (and told my boss ;-) )


texts: Can you use a wide range 11-42 cassette with a double crankset

texts:
Can you use a 10 or 11 speed wide range (11-42, 10-42, or 11-40) cassette with a double crankset?

I know these wide range cassettes are typically built for a 1x setup on a mountain bike, but is there any reason why you couldn't pair this with a front derailleur and run it with a double crankset? I would assume to be running a type 2 clutch rear derailleur anyway to support the wide range and reduce chain slap on smaller cogs.


texts: How to patch glass cuts in a bicycle tire?

texts:
How do you deal with the small cuts in a bicycle tires main tread?  Do folks fill these small cuts?

I have continental gatorskins which I periodically check and pull out the street glass shards.

thanks!


texts: I am trying to adjust the brakes of a new bike and need some help. It has mechanical disk brakes. I have successfully aligned the disk pads so that they are parallel and are at an adequate distance from the disk. However, the lever travel is ridiculous, it goes down all the way to the grip. I understand that in order to decrease lever travel you have to bring the pads closer to each other, however I have brought them as close as they can be already without causing brake rubbing. Any ideas on what I can do?


texts: Commuting daily with an Expensive Bike, tips?

texts:
I have been commuting to work daily for years now. Sadly I just switched jobs and there is no bike parking, so I have to leave it in the street. My main problem is that I'm riding a Colnago Single Speed, so I'm not a fan of that solution in the long run.

I just wanted to know if any of you have had a similar problem. Maybe the best solution is just to get a new cheaper bike to be safe.


texts:
I am replacing my smallest cassette cog for the 3rd time.

I have been using Harris Cyclery's Aluminum Cog

Crupi's Chromoly Cog is about 3 times as expensive. Is that still worth it?

Can anyone comment towards how much Chromoly increases the cog durability?


texts:
this is my first time here and i am new in the bike sport. I have a mtb for a month now and i usually use it for road trips with some dirt intervals. It has a 7 speed shimano cassette (14-34) and on the road it seems too light now. I would like to change it to an 8 or 9 speed cassette with 11-30 or 11-32 assembly. Is this possible with my current hub or will i need to replace the whole rear assembly? Of course i will also change the shifter.
Thank you all in advance


texts: Need replacement chainring for Shimano Ultegra FC-6503 42t chainring

texts: The Shimano Ultegra FC-6503 42t chainring is "obsolete" but there must be some 42t 130 bcd chainring that would work. It is the middle of a triple. The mounting bolts pass thru the 52t to a spider hole, then into the 42t ring. the 42t ring is flat, except for some ramps. It would seem a similar 42t ring would work, even if it does not have ramps. Nobody know what would replace it. A Shimano Dura-Ace FC-7800 42 Tooth 10-Speed A-Type Chainring might work. Does anybody know? Thanks in advance!


texts:
I would really like to pickup a pair of bar end shifters but none of my local bike shops are able to get any for me.  My local bike dump laughed in my face when I asked them where I should/could find them.

Where online could I get some bar end shifters for a reasonable price?  (Bonus points for cheap shipping to/in Canada).


texts: Replace a double ultegra crankset for a triple ultegra crankset. Is that possible?

texts:
I would like to exchange a triple Ultegra crankset on one road bicycle to another bicycle with a double Ultegra crankset.

Is that possible?


texts: Can I swap Semi-Metallic brake pads for Sintered Metal Brake Pads?

texts:
I'm running disc brakes on my cyclocross bike with semi-metallic brake pads.  I find that I'm constantly having to keep my rotors cleaned off to ensure optimal performance.  I'm used to my mountain bike which uses sintered metal pads, and still works well in muddy / dirty conditions without needing excess maintenance.

I considered buying new brake pads and swapping them out. However, If I do that, will the new metallic pads work well with the rotor that has been bed-in using the semi-metallic (part resin) pad?  Do I need to get new rotors or do anything to bed in the rotors again with new pads? Would it be any different swapping from sintered to resin based pads?


texts: Are there any route planning/mapping apps or websites that can show a chart of cumulative ascent?

texts:
Strava and Ride With GPS both show elevation charts, but they show elevation at any particular point in the ride, i.e. on a circular route with 2000m of climbing the charts will go up and down but they will always finish at the same elevation they started.
I'm looking for a way of showing a chart that adds up the ascent/climbing as it goes, so the same route would have a chart that always increased and ended up at 2000m. Is there an easy way to do this for any given GPX file?


texts: Does headtube angle affect which fork you can use?

texts:
If there is a fork designed for a slack headtube and you put it in a steep headtube, will the dropouts be affected by the different direction the force from the wheel is coming from? Will the wheel also be secure enough in the dropouts?

Mainly asking about threaded steerers with quick release if that makes a difference.


texts: Orders of the washers on threaded-stud brake shoes

texts:
So today I changed my v-brake brake shoes on my old MTB to put cartridge brake shoes.

I noticed that the order of the washers was different on both brake shoes.
On the newer one the brake arm was touching both convex washers, on the older one it was touching a concave and a convex.
Here's a picture:
I know that you can swap the big and small concave washers to adjust the angle of the brake arm, but is there a specific order for the concave and convex washers ?

On this Park Tool page we can see multiple different washer orders.

Does it depends on the brakes? Does it permit some fine grained adjustment? Does it matter?