texts: Kids bike overlapping frame sizes, can you go up one size?

texts:
Bike size guide:

105-117cm, 4-6 yrs: 14"
112-125cm, 5-7 yrs: 16"

My niece already has a 14" bike her daddy got her. I have been monitoring her height, she's definitely growing. At the moment she's 114cm tall. Is there a good reason why I shouldn't get her a 16" instead?


texts: How do I measure a fork for suitability?

texts:
I have an old bike I bought from ebay that looks to be '80s vintage. I'm converting it to a single speed. I have some new(ish) wheels that I plan to use. I tried to just slot in the existing wheels and struck the following problems:

The axle would not fit into the dropouts as it's too big.
The axle also wouldn't fit between the dropouts as the space between the dropouts is too narrow
Even if I could mount the wheel the brakes I have don't reach the rims, as the distance from the dropouts to the brake mounting point is too great.

So I think I will upgrade to a new fork. My question is how do I ensure that these measurements will be correct for a new fork? I've measured a fork from another bike that I know fits with my wheels.

The axle is 10mm diameter (on the old fork it's 7.5mm)
The inside measurement between the dropouts is 100mm. Outside measurement is 110mm. (On the old fork, it's 95mm and 100mm)
The distance from the dropouts to the brake mounting point is 355mm (on the old fork it's 375mm)

Will this fork fit? It looks like it will but I'm not sure if the measurements supplied are inside or outside. I'm aware that it's for a threaded steerer and I know it's a 1" steerer tube (see this question for the information about the existing fork.

Also, since the replacement fork is 20mm shorter from the dropouts to the brake point is that going to throw out the angles of the bike?

Update: I bought the fork and it's a great fit for the wheel. The offset against the original fork is less than I expected, somewhere between 10-20mm so the handling is not too bad.


texts: Is it possible to convert a suspension fork to rigid by drilling it?

texts:
I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?


texts: 2009 Boxxer Team Dual Crown - Are springs different from 2010 + models?

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I have a 2009 boxxer team fork on my bike.  I'd like to buy the firmer spring as I am heavier than the last owner.  Can I put the spring from a 2010/2011/2012 boxxer in there or was there something specific about the spring from 2009 that would require me to find one meant specifically for that year.

I only ask as I can get a really screaming deal on a spring set from a newer boxxer fork.  So if it would work I'd like to go with it.

Thanks


texts:
So I was looking to exchange my fork to Suntour one and red that their steerer tubes are just 255mm length, is that too short for my bike? Does anyone even sell forks with longer steerer tubes or is the 255mm standard? And is my headtube unusually long at 215mm?
Also manufacturer calls my headset zero stack:
HEADSET - 1-1/8" Zero Stack Threadless


texts: Upgrading cassette from 11-28T to 11-32T?

texts:
I recently got a road bike that is equipped with a cassette that is 11-28, and while it runs like a dream on flat surfaces, I burn out on extremely steep hills. With that being said, is it worth the investment to upgrade the cassette to a 11-32, or should I suck it up and keep the 11-28 that’s on there now? I have an Ultegra 50-34 compact chainring, and a Ultegra RD-6800-GS derailleur, which according to their site, will accommodate a 11-32. This may be a silly question, but even if the rear derailleur can accommodate a bigger cassette, is the 11-32 much bigger than the 11-28? Will it fit in my tiny 47cm frame?

Thanks!


texts:
I'm trying to upgrade my cassette for lower gearing on a Nishiki Continental. The previous owner put on a (NOS) Shimano XT rear derailleur. I use friction shifters.

I looked on the back of the cage and the models says RD-M739. The document from Shimano says 32T maximum. What do you think, would a 34T 9-speed work?

I would like to have a bigger rear cog so I'm asking just to be sure it's not a RD-M739-SGS. How can I tell? Would SGS be stamped on the back if it would be?

Thanks!

Update: I actually found a 7sp overdrive with a 34T largest cog on another bike that I tried. Seems to work just as fine as on the bike it came from.


texts:
I just recently obtained a classic style bike frame that has horizontal fork-ends (people call them dropouts but they're different).

I wanted to use hollow axles and skewers on this bike but I think that the skewers will slip. I've seen those chain tug screws but what I'm concerned is the axle slipping out of the fork-end, not slipping in. (which is prevented by pulling the axle out, tensioning the chain)

Normally in single speed bikes, it's the chain that prevents the axle from slipping out of the frame. It's different in my case, as I will be fitting a derailleur on this. (the chain is long, and the derailleur tension might not be enough to keep the axle in)

Is there some sort of reverse chain tug or an axle block for a bike that prevents the axle from moving both ways?


texts: I have no clue what happened to my derailleur on my bike. I can ride the bike and after a couple of cranks the chain gets really lose and seems like it's about to come off so I stop pedaling and wait and then the tire does a couple of rotations and the chains tight again.


texts: What are the pros and cons of panniers vs messenger bags?

texts:
I was shopping for new panniers and thought it might be worth it to also check out messenger bags as an alternative.  What are the basic pros and cons of each?

I started out using just a regular back pack to carry my stuff, this was quite hot on my back.  I purchased panniers a few years back, and I've been pretty happy with them.

The major problems I have are that the rack is always on the bike, even when I don't need to carry anything.  They are difficult to carry when I'm not on the bike.  Also, most panniers are sold in sets of 2, and I only ever use 1.

As far as messenger bags go, I've never used one before.  Is it that much better than a regular back pack?  I realize it isn't so high on the back, so it should stay cooler, but I'm not sure about having all the weight on me, and how that affects getting out of the saddle.

Let me know what your experiences are with each of them, and which you recommend.


texts:
Freewheel on my bike is not making any clicking sounds like it used to when I bought the bike from the bike shop.

I got the bike serviced last month due to brake making screeching noises and the rear wheel is wobbling.
I don't know what the bicycle mechanics did to the rear wheel except that he filed the brake pads clean.
I m guessing that they added more grease or sprayed some degreaser on the bearing wheels in the hub and did some adjustments to the rear wheel.


texts: My front wheel has some play which drives me crazy

texts: I have a mountain bike and it's front wheel has some play in it. I have replaced the bearings and the whole axle but it was in vain. If you even tighten the cone nuts more than you should do the play is still there. What is happening and does this mean I need a new wheel? Thank you in advance!


texts: Can I lace my hub with all inward or outward facing spoke heads?

texts:
It seems conventional wisdom says to alternate inward vs outward spoke heads going around the flange when lacing a wheel, like this:

However, I'm wondering what the reason for this is, and if it has advantages or disadvantages for the flange, lateral stiffness, and/or lacing the crosses. It does look nice to have them all match, like this:

Is this 'bad'? Can it only be done in radial spoking? Could you have more lateral stiffness from all outside spokes, and/or less lateral stiffness from all inside spokes (because of more/less angle spread of the spoke angles)? The ideal answer would explain the pros and cons of:

Alternating Inward/Outward Lacing (Standard?)
All Outward (heads facing inward) Lacing
All Inward (heads facing outward) Lacing


texts: Remove rounded nuts/bolts from wheel on old bike

texts:
I have an old bike I need to repair (including flat tyres!)
Unfortunately it has rounded nuts on it and can't seem to unscrew them.

Is there an easy non expensive way to remove them without damaging them?


texts: Disc brake fork with QR and vertical dropouts: worrisome?

texts: The pic below is from the fork of a 2020 Kona CoCo. Eyeballing it, it seems to me that an arc around the disc caliper contact point would pass straight through the dropout. Should this be worrisome? Does the recess around the dropout make this sufficiently (?) safer in the event the QR becomes loose?


texts: Should I seal the open spoke holes on my front rim?

texts:
I have a 16 spoke front wheel on my road bike.  The hub is an oddball Shimano one with 16 big nipples at the hub end instead of the rim end.

This wheel also has a 32 hole aluminium/aluminum rim:

I washed the bike in the weekend and dried it in the sun, then hung it up.  On the first ride I pushed it for half-a-wheel revolution, and water came out of the rimholes that were at the bottom and are now at the top.  Total quantity was perhaps a couple of tablespoons worth?

Should I seal up the 16 open holes with something?  Theres no way they'll ever be used for spokes.

I don't know if this was the original rim or hub, given its a 1998 bike there's a good change its been replaced.

EDIT 2 years later I have retired this wheel.  It broke a single spoke on a downhill road at about 50 km/h (35 mph) and the sudden lack of true made it rub the brake/fork while shaking madly.

The spoke broke toward the hub end, so I still had the oversized nipple stuck in the hub and the rest of the spoke was hanging from the rim.  My suspicion is the spoke was weak from someone (maybe me) holding it badly while truing which weakened the metal with a score/scratch.

If one more spoke broke it could have locked up with a nasty full speed prang.  A normal 32 spoke wheel could survive the loss of multiple  spokes before becoming unrideable.

I did replace the dead spoke, but all of them have a phenomenal level of tension on them, which is also a concern.  For now, its hanging on a hook as a spare wheel.


texts: Bike tires need air every ride...is this normal?

texts: I ride my bike maybe once a week at most. I need to add air to the tires every time to bring it up to the right pressure.  (I ride a mountain bike and I put about 45 - 50 PSI's into the tires.)  Is this normal?


texts: How to adjust seat saddle and saddle position for knee pain?

texts:
I understand that a seat too high can cause:

hips rocking trying to extend to pedals
pain in the back of the knee

And that a seat too low can cause:

can't fully extend legs
pain in front of the knee

Here's my problem: I'm getting a little bit of front knee pain AND my hips rocking back and forth. It suggests my seat is both too high and too low at the same time!!

Perhaps my saddle position is too far forward, making the seat feel like it's too low, therefore aggravating my knee. Should I try lowering the seat height but also moving back the seat position?


texts: Any way to transport kids on a folding bike?

texts:
I LOVE my Strida, but have noticed that the only way to transport kids with it is in a trailer, which seems to defeat the purpose of a compact bike.

I've seen a crazy expensive Brompton bar attachment that becomes an extra kid seat in front of your seat (Here's a thorough review of it: http://documentally.com/2011/08/20/a-child-seat-for-a-brompton-folding-bike-review/) but it doesn't seem to be available any more.

Any other options that combine any folding bike with a child seat?


texts:
Some 1/8 chains and chainrings are sold as "1/2 1/8" and some as "1 1/8". What is the first number describing?

My understanding is that practically all modern chains have a 1/2 inch pitch.


texts: does my degreaser hang around and destroy my new chain lube?

texts: I generally clip on the Park chain cleaner, fill it with a cheap department store degreaser (Rubbermaid), run it through for a few seconds, then fill the chain cleaner with water once or twice or more to get rid of the degreaser.  I've been trying out Purple Extreme lube lately.  I'm not getting 100 miles out of an application of Purple Extreme (Conditions have been wet, but not "extreme") .  I'm convinced that some of the degreaser stays behind and breaks down the new lube.  Could this product contain detergents that stay behind and destroy the new lube?  Is this the difference between $10.00 per gallon department store degreaser and $50.00 per gallon "Bicycle" degreaser?


texts: Crank fell off square taper BB. Should I replace bottom bracket

texts:
After years of use and multiple retightenings my crank will fall off my bike about once a week and definitely needs to be replaced. I believe that the square hole of the crank has expanded to the point where it can no longer get a tight grab on the bottom bracket

My question is whether I should replace the bottom bracket when I replace the crank given that it's bearings are still good. Is it possible that BB spindle deformity is also part of the reason the crank is falling or is it probable the spindle is fine and I just need to replace the crank.

For reference, the bb spindle looks fine .


texts: I have a FSA compact crank 50/34 with a 9-speed 12-27 cassette. I need better climbing ability for steep grades, not concerned with flat top speed. What should I do? What is the largest size cassette I can use?


texts: Need help debugging ebike: Laggy motor / inconsistent behavior

texts:
My ebike has been acting weird lately, and I need help figuring out why. It's my daily driver, so I'm hesitant to turn it in for service, as that would probably take at least a month. The bike's one of these. It's built to follow Norwegian/European requirements, which means it has a pedal-assist sensor and a max speed of 25 km/h. It also has e-brakes, meaning the motor is disengaged at the slightest use of the brake handles. Settings are pretty limited with three assistance settings (low, mid, high), in addition to a walk-assist button and the on/off switch. It's mostly stored indoors, both at home and at work. It's only left outside for shorter periods of time when I'm visiting friends and family.

Some observations:

The motor sometimes does not work at all, and only provides assistance in short, inconsistent bursts, completely disregarding set assistance level.
The motor will be always on, disregarding the pedal-assist requirement, just blasting full throttle unless I squeeze the brakes.
The on/off button seems to work fine. As in, when the bike has the battery connected but is switched off, the motor does not engage.
Most of the time, the bike works perfectly.
Possibly coincidental, but the incidents have always happened on/after rainy days.
I first experienced this after leaving the bike unused while on vacation for 3 weeks.
All incidents have occurred on a fully or near fully charged battery.

Hypotheses:

This is somehow related to a wet battery-connection.
Pedal-assist sensor is broken.
Ebrakes are not working properly.

The battery and connector both look fine. I have not yet inspected the wiring or the motor itself. I am grateful for any assistance with how to proceed. Thanks!


texts: Replacing rigid fork with suspension fork

texts:
Can I replace a rigid fork with a suspension fork on a Mongoose  Alder bike. 27.5 .

If so, what particular forks? Under $100.00


texts: What type of grease to use as general purpose bearing lubricant?

texts:
Lithium grease, white litium grease, graphite grease, carbon grease, SRAM`s Liquid O-ring. And those are only the types of greases I have heard about.

What type of grease would be suitable for bearings like headsets, BBs, Shimano hubs?


texts:
The front quick release lever of my Mongoose Threshold is missing or broken.

I don't know the year of the bike and do not know how to determine it. There is a sticker that says ATB4130, another one that says "All Terrain" and 32" size. The tires are 26"

Can I just buy a new skewer, or just replace lever? How do I know skewer size to buy or can I repair what I have?


texts:
I'm looking to use some Pinheads on my bike. The front wheel is a through axle wheel. From Pinhead's product website they have an option for P1.0 or P1.5 thread - I'm looking for a M12 124mm long bolt.

I'm unsure what P1.0/P1.5 signifies on the thread, and also unsure on how to measure it.

Can anyone explain what the P-value signifies? And how I would measure it?


texts: Would Tri-Bars be advantageous for a 260 mile 2 day event

texts:
At the end of August I am organising and completing a solo 2 day bike ride for charity that will be around 260 miles in length.

The longest I have ever done is 105 miles in one sitting, about 6 and a half hours in the saddle.

The first day of my event will be about 175 miles and I am estimating about 12 hours saddle time.

I was wondering if using Tri-Bars would be advantageous with regards to the extra position it will give me, or would I be better sticking to the ~4 positions I currently have on my drop handles?

I have never used Tri-bars before but have a pair in my garage. My bike is a Felt F-85 road bike with quite aggressive geometry.


texts: Replacement crankset for Shimano SG B 52/39?

texts:
I have a very basic Specialized Allez (XL frame) street bike (pictured in my avatar) with a cheap SG B52/39 chainring needing replacement (warped and wearing out after two years of daily use).

But here in Costa Rica the LBS can't seem to find a replacement chainring the same size as I have. They only offer me compact cranksets which I don't accept since I already max out on the flats to the the 52T/12T top gear combination. Therefore I need to figure out what chainring/crankset to order myself the US online.

Unfortunately, I don't know what to order that will fit (something one tends to rely on the LBS to get right) my bike as it is.

So I'm coming to y'all. What do you recommend I get? Here's my details:

Teeth: I learned from this article that there are racing, compact and even mid-compact chainrings. I think I prefer the mid-compact of 52/36T. If not possible, a racing of 53/39. Are both possible?
Crankshaft: Also, my current crankshaft is 170mm and I don't know if that's what I should get on the next chainring. I am 6' tall and have a 33-34" inseam.
Quality: My focus is durability; I ride every day. I don't want to pay a lot for something light since I'm not racing but I also don't want another cheap chainring that bends easily like the stock one did.

I'm hoping you can recommend an exact model chainring or crankset and maybe even where the best place to mail order it is (to a US address from which someone will bring it down to me).

Thanks in advance.

P.S. In case it matters, the stock 8-speed cassette in the back seems fine (Shimano CS HG50 12-25T). I also have a new Shimano Sora RD-3500 rear derailer doing well. The front derailer is the stock Shimano Sora FD-3400


texts:
Will strapping salsa anything cages on my suspension fork damage it?  I'm considering bikepacking, and don't have a rigid fork on the bike I would like to use.

I would likely be carrying something of moderate weight like a couple litres of water on the front of the bike. I won't be using panniers as I would like to keep the weight mostly centered and plan on quite a bit of off road riding.

Is it generally safe to use something like the salsa anything cage (or big bottle cages) strapped to my fork?  Could this damage the fork, more than just messing up the paint a bit?

Likely mounted like this, with intertubes protecting fork, and hose clamps holding cages:

Source http://www.bikepacking.com/plog/bikepacking-the-appalachian-trail/


texts: Find or fabricate a metal bracket for bicycle trailer

texts:
My family and I just recently jumped into cycling. We bought two bikes for my wife and myself and a pull behind trailer for our 1.5 year old little girl. Problem is, my bike has a very small point where the hitch adapter can be mounted.

The stock adapter is shown here, the smaller part attaches to the rear axle:

Where it should, but can't, be mounted on my bike (don't mind the tape measure starting at 2, that's a habit from contracting work, basing off the first visible inch as an offset):

I went to Home Depot hoping for a bracket that would allow me to offset the stock adapter, and found a gate hinge that actually worked, but the metal was too soft and bent. I drew up a representation of what I think I need to make this work, but I don't know what to call it in order to see if a part like this even exists anywhere.

Concept:

If I need to fabricate one, any tips? I don't have any metal working tools besides a drill.

UPDATE: The simplest solution was what worked. Performance Bike didn't have skewers that were any longer than my rear (120mm I think), and I even tried to rig something up on the rear eyelet (M5 0.8mm) but just couldn't get it to fit. Even if I had, I wouldn't have been very confident in it. This morning I was hooking the adapter up to my wife's hybrid, I pulled her QR skewer off and it looked longer than my 120mm - and it was. In fact, it fit perfectly on mine with the washers, and mine fit just fine on hers. I took it for 12 miles and it worked very well. I agree with @Móż that a solid spacer would be better than the washers, something I'll order soon. If I can find clamps like @Criggie suggested I think that will make the best long-term solution, but they were pretty difficult to track down.


texts: What is the practical advantage of disk brakes over rim brakes?

texts: Disk brakes are becomming more popular on bikes now, and I was just wondering what the advantage is of this type of brake over the older rim brakes.


texts: Need help finding compatible bottom bracket and crank set for track bike

texts:
My bike is this:

https://www.santafixie.co.uk/derail-black-fixed-bike.html

The BB measurements on the link are CH55 BSA 68/107.

I know literally bare minimum about bottom brackets and crank sets. I wanted to get this Miche Primato advanced track crank set and I need some ideas of what bottom bracket I could get that would work with this and my bike. (my bottom bracket currently has play in it so I need a new one anyway).

Or if anyone could check my current specs and recommend a compatible BB and crank set (preferably 48t) that is good. I know there are other factors like chain line width but as I've given the BB length I'm thinking a same length new one would be the same chain line width?

Cheers.


texts: Patched up my tire and still lost air again

texts:
I recently popped my tube and I took it out and put a patch on it and made sure that there were no other holes and I didn't find any so I filled it up and rode on it for about an hour, then the next day it was flat. Can you guys please help me!?

And I also patched up the hole in the tire so if anyone can help me that would great.


texts: Can PROMEND cleats match Fizik Shoes and Look pedals?

texts: I got a look keo classic 3 road pedals and I'm looking to buy a pair of Promend road cleats. Will these be compatible and fit my Fizik Tempo R5 road shoes? I've attached the picture of the pedals and the road cleats.


texts: SRAM BB30 cranks - how to remove crankarm from spindle?

texts:
I have SRAM S2200 (X.0) cranks with a BB30/PF30 spindle. They are 3-piece ones, with the self-extracting mechanism on the right (drive) side, and a regular non-puller bolt on the left side.
I want to replace the spindle, because I stripped the thread on the original one. However, I had no luck taking the left crankarm off it. The lobed interface between the arm and spindle is fused tight.
Attempts so far:

WD-40 won't get in there (or has no effect)
I haven't found a safe way to heat up the crankarm to loosen the join (crankarm is carbon = not a good idea)
I can't use the self-extracting mechanism from the right side (because there is no thread for the top cap, see pic).
Hammering on the tightening nut (while it is loosened and slightly protruding above the crank) doesn't seem to do the trick, at some point the hammer just starts to damage the nut itself.

I found a thread on MTBR where somebody accomplished it, but the author hasn't described how (in much detail).
Any ideas on how to take this thing apart?

P.S. The photos might be misleading, so I'll re-emphasize: i only need to take the left crankarm off the spindle, i.e. the one which doesn't have the self-extracting mechanism. The right crankarm I have no issues with.


texts: What make road bike is this vintage 1980s bike?

texts: The headbadge says "WORLD Japan" over a globe. Belleri handlebars, Shimano 600 frame. Lapize on pedal. Seat selle royal.


texts: Can anyone provide a brief list of some graded climbs in England, Scotland and Wales, please? I tackled a few hills some 30 years ago (as a tourist), which I thought were quite tough - would they be a challenge to a racing cyclist (at racing speeds)? Examples include Berriedale Brae, Carter Bar, Drumochter. I used granny gears and went very slooooowly!


texts: Square taper bottom bracket tool doesn't always fit

texts:
I bought as bottom bracket tool some time ago, a generic Shimano one. sometimes with some sealed bottom brackets from ZTTO it worked beautifully. Sadly in the process of restoring a 98' Kona Caldera, and also fixing some noises from the bottom bracket of my old road bike (photo attached), I've noticed my tool, which is supposed to be a Shimano compatible one, doesn't always fit. The Kona has a Shimano BB-LP26, and the drive side fit nicely, but the other support cup doesn't. Luckily it was finger locked and easy to clean and service. But the one of my road bike doens't fit in every side, it seems like exist an other Shimano BB, but I was not able to find anything on the internet.
Long story short in some BB it works nice, in others simply doesn't.
Do you know what's happening here?


texts: Is it bad to keep hydraulic brakes engaged for many hours?

texts:
I find it easier to park my bike if I can remove one of its degrees of freedom, for example, prevent the wheels from rotating. An easy way to do this would be to strap one of the brake levers down.

This would be for around 8–12 hours, 5–6 times per week. I have hydraulic disc brakes. The bike would be upright.

I have a feeling that this is a bad idea. Is it? And if so, why?


texts: Is torque relevant for steel/aluminium? Where do I find torque specs?

texts:
When you are not dealing with carbon, is torque relevant?

I've never seen it mentioned on the hundreds of answers here, or the hundreds of how-tos I've read elsewhere.

Should I just tighten everything "hard enough"? If not, what's the best way to find the torque specs for old parts?


texts:
I bought and installed Shimano MT200 brakes to my bike and now I'm wondering are they installed correctly. Seems like only small area of pad is touching the rotor. 160 mm rotor in the front. I had some bad Tektro mechanical brakes but replaced them with these Shimano MT200 hydraulic ones.
Pictures of different angles: https://imgur.com/gallery/WAiZkjc


texts: Can the length of disc brake hose influence braking power?

texts:
I recently installed new brakes (Shimano SLX 675), shortened hoses for front/rear brake, done bleeding but even after that rear brake lever feels much softer than front. (I had identical issue with old brakes (M446) which acted in the same way and that is partially the reason for asking this question).

New brakes work fine, they have nice stopping power, there are no signs of oil leaking etc... It is just that rear brake lever feels much softer (and I don't think it is due to lever reach adjustment; it isn't nearly reaching handlebar).

Can the longer length of disc brake hose (rear breake) influence the 'feel' while braking (assuming brakes are correctly installed and working properly) or there is something else causing this 'problem'?


texts: Shimano 170mm FC-TY301 48/38/28 alternative

texts:
I have a Marin Fairfax 2 bike and I’m new to biking. When the bike was assembled the right pedal was not properly put in and came off.it has ruined the threads on the crankshaft right arm.
I would like to replace the crank which is a Shimano 170mm FC-TY301 48/38/28. However, I cannot find this crank as it is out of stock everywhere. Is there an alternative I could use?


texts: Website with bicycle only paths in Europe?

texts: Does anyone know of a website that has a map of bicycle paths in Europe that are bike/walkers only, i.e. no cars?


texts:
I have a Jamis Allegro Sport Hybrid (6 months old) and has gone about 400 miles so far. Today I had an accident (in the UK) because the rear tyre got punctured after hitting a good size pothole. I took it to Evans Cycles (UK) and they did a quick repair job to fix the puncture. However, the repairman pointed out that the brake pads are burning the edge of my tyres and this is very strange to me. Is there any way I can use special brake pads so that I don't have this problem?

P.S. I use Shimano DuraAce 7700 style brake pads which are apparently very cheap.

Please advise.

I've linked to some images:
Image1,
Image2-tyre_worn_out,

Edit:
From the comments and answers, this seems like the most relevant picture:


texts: Are there any community bike shops in the Netherlands?

texts:
I'm a Canadian who's visiting the Netherlands for a few months. I'm awed by the strength of the bicycling culture here, but, to date, I haven't been able to locate any community bike shops. By community bike shop I mean a place where you can borrow tools and do your own repairs on site, for a small fee. Bikecollectives.org doesn't list any in the country. Given the number of cyclists here, though, it seems inconceivable that organizations like these don't exist.

Does anyone know of any community bike shops in the Netherlands?  (Specifically, one in Amsterdam or The Hague where I might be able to true my back wheel?)


texts:
I'm reading The Time Crunched Cyclist and trying to work out a training plan for a century later on this year. I am having a really simple problem understanding the overunder (OU) interval shorthand. For a ride listed as:

90 min. EM with 3 x 12 min. OU (2U, 1O) (8 min. RBI)

What does the (2U, 1O) designation for the OU interval refer to?

I know I'm supposed to do 3 repetitions of 12 min. at some pace with 8 minutes in between. But what is that timing/pace -- how long under and how long over? I can't seem to find it explained anywhere in the text.


texts:
I just got a new Zip 303s Wheelset and the freehub has some play that you can see on this video. I am not sure whether this is normal or not.
Could you help me here?


texts: Recumbent, diamond-frame or trailer to move heavy things?

texts:
Heavy things can be a lot of books, full beer cans, construction woods and other misc in a place where I cannot use a car and the trip is long and suitable for riding. So which one would you favor? And which kind of adjustment would you make to move heavy things? I have seen a post office with diamond-frame bike framed with a metallic balancing thing, for example. Any such devices for other options and what are they called? Stabilizer? Support device?

I have long been looking for something like that but haven't yet found from second-hand market, I believe they could be reasonable priced. A more sturdy example here from Austria with side wheels, now the frame is original. I don't know yet how much such side supports can stand so open to any suggestions, does not need to be diamond-framed like in the picture.


texts: Should I replace with 8sp or upgrade to 9 speed? Or 10 speed?

texts:
The original shifters that came with my 2001 Kona Blast MTB is gone. Also, the cassette and chain are long over due for replacement.

Hence, was think of dropping the 8 speed (3×8) altogether for the following reasons:

Limited options for replacement parts compared to 9sp or 10sp.
Replacement parts even when available are only limited to either the lower range .. or from other compatible brands.
Curiosity/vanity

Currently, will likely to use it mainly for my food delivery job.

I'm also planning to use this bike for touring (few days to 2 weeks). So would prefer to be able to get replacements easily at bike shops in the nearest town.

The reasons holding me back are:
 1.  I was told that 8sp chain and cassette are thicker therefore more durable.
 2. Really cheap to overhaul

9sp and 10sp are about the same price, so I still contemplating which would be better.

Am leaning more towards to 10 since it seemed to be the most common currently.

Would like to hear your opinions on should I just stay at 8sp or upgrade to 9sp or 10sp.


texts: Can I use my nitto campee rack on my bike?

texts:
I just purchased a Nitto Campee 27R rear rack. It seems like it's not wide enough to mount on my All-City Space Horse, which has rack bosses and 130mm rear wheel spacing.

Has anyone tried to install these racks?  Should I just try and stretch them out to make them wide enough or should I buy a different rear rack?


texts: would I be able to put new rear wheel with 12mm x 142 axle on my 2007 RM Element 70 frame?

texts: would I be able to put new rear wheel with 12mm x 142 axle on my 2007 RM Element 70 frame in terms of dropouts compatibility?


texts: I notice that when I pedal that I mostly seat the pedal in the arches of my foot naturally. I also notice that the cycling shoes tend to seat the cleats in the balls of the foot area, as do other cyclists. I was curious about the justification or pro/cons of either. When I try to pedal in the balls of the foot location I find it a bit better to be aggressively pedaling, but my foot slowly drifts back to the arches position. I ride flat pedals only.


texts: Suspension forks on child/youth bicycle for road ringing good?

texts:
When riding only roads and well maintained trails, does it make any sense to have a suspension fork on a children's bike (10-12 years)?

My initial gut feeling is to say no as it just adds weight and complexity to the bicycle.  But I don't have any experience to back this up.


texts: Can and should I sell a bike without wheels?

texts:
I know it is quite easy to sell a road bike that's ready to ride away, as sites like eBay are full of them.  But how easy, practical and lucrative is it to sell a road bike minus the wheels?

Why do I ask?  Well, I'd been planning to sell my road bike for a while: I barely ever ride it and usually store it indoors.  When the in-laws came round for the weekend, I left it in the back yard with the frame but not the wheels locked - and of course, when I came back to it a few days later, the wheels were gone.  The saddle was left alone, which implies to me that the thieves were opportunists.

I still want to sell the bike, but I'd prefer not to buy new wheels (+ tyres + cassette).  This leads me to some specific questions:

Is there demand for a mid-range road bike without wheels?  I don't think I've ever seen one for sale before.  We're talking a 2011 bike with aluminium frame, carbon fork, mostly 105 components - decent, but nothing special.
What kind of discount should I be offering to compensate for the lack of wheels?
How should I explain the situation to potential buyers?  I know the bike is legit and belongs to me, but they might think it's stolen.  I also know that the frame was locked with a very sturdy lock, so the thieves will only have touched the wheels - but potential buyers might suspect the thieves damaged the frame.
Would I bring in more money by stripping the remaining components and selling them separately from the frameset?  I've never removed a bottom bracket or handlebars, but I'm sure I could figure it out (and I like excuses to buy new tools).
Is there a word or phrase to describe a wheel-less bike?  For instance, if I were a buyer and wanted just a frame, I'd know to search for "frameset".  Is there an analogous term?
Is eBay the best place for a fairly niche item like this?  It's my go-to site for selling stuff, but is it really best in this case?
Do I need to take extra care when boxing a wheel-less bike for delivery?  Disclaimer: I have no experience of boxing a bike.


texts: What is the purpose of this rear dropout screw?

texts:
I am a long time MTBer who just got my first road bike. This is a photo of the left rear dropout. The screw I'm talking about is the little silver one just above the axle. There is a groove cut into both the frame, and the bushing of the axle, to allow this screw to fit there. I'm guessing its just an anti-rotation device to prevent the axle fastener from backing out (or slipping during tightening), but I have had dozens of bikes of various kinds without this type of thing, so I don't understand why it's necessary.

It also bothers me that it doesn't sit perfectly straight when both it and the axle are tightened. When I start assembling everything it looks straight, but once everything gets tight it actually wedges itself into a slightly crooked state, meaning the actual axis of the screw becomes slightly off parallel with the axis of the screw hole, which makes me think the threads are being stressed unevenly.


texts:
I have interest in biking to and from work, but have heard some horror stories from cyclists at work.

Short of asking coworkers on safe cycling practices, where should I go for a more authoritative source of how to practice safe cycling?

For example:

Cyclists sometimes use the cross walk and sometimes using the road's turning lanes. Which is appropriate, and when?
Should a cyclist use a road without a shoulder or bike lane?
What gear is essential for safety?
Are there exceptions to driving in the same direction as traffic?


texts: Hello all, I've won this triathlon frame on Ebay for £150 but have yet to pay. Apparently Vision have never made frames and deal only in components (according to their customer service). Is this some sort of fake? I bought as I felt that I could sell the headset, make back some of the money spent and then just use the frame and forks for a Triathlon build but now I'm worried that the CK headset may be a fugazy as well. It should be noted though that the seller has good reviews on other bikes sold within the past 6 months at a similar price. Any help and insight is appreciated. Stay blessed


texts: I want an old road bike to fix up that goes fast. Where do I start?

texts:
I would like to get into road biking with some co-workers who have fancy new road bikes. However, I prefer to buy an older bike from the 70s, 80s, or 90s because I like fixing up  older stuff and I'm a little cheap.

Will I have a chance of keeping up with these people on an older bike if we have the same fitness level?
I'm looking to buy from Craigslist. What components/brands/features should I look for on an older road bike to know its of good pedigree and capable of keeping up with my co-workers?

Am I setting myself up for failure by buying an older road bike and expecting to go fast? Not sure if it matters, but I'm a fit 195lb 6 ft. 2 in. male.

Thanks!


texts: How can I tell if my bike can ride down stairs without damaging it?

texts:
I would like to know if my bike can handle going down a flight of about 15 stairs. (edit: ride it down, not jump)

Specifically I have a Merida Crossway 100 . However, I would like to know if there is a general rule of thumb that I can use for my future bikes.

Just to clarify:

The stairs in question are 13 x 30 cm each.
I realize that technique is also involved, but whereas bones can heal, wheels cannot.


texts:
I'm looking at possibly buying some kind of bike rack for my 4-door Mazda 3 sedan. I currently just have one road bike, but want to be able to carry two bikes just-in-case. Does anyone have any opinions, one way or the other, for a roof rack versus a trunk rack?

I worry about a trunk rack scratching the paint on the car. We've all seen those bikes on trunk racks that seem to be swaying in the wind and seem "loosely attached", and I do plan to drive on the highway/interstate with the bike.

Trunk racks are a lot cheaper than the roof racks. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a roof rack?

Here are the different options I'm looking at:

Roof rack:
http://www.amazon.com/Yakima-2009-CopperHead-Mount-Rooftop/dp/B001PUX4IO/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372773181&sr=1-3&keywords=car+roof+bike+rack

Trunk Rack:
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00ASSQYK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372773123&sr=8-1&keywords=Trunk+bike+rack

Any help and/or insight is appreciated.


texts: New shifters: is Acera SL-M360 a good buy and how much better is SL-M310?

texts:
I was going to buy the Shimano Acera SL-M360 (but now the shop only has the SL-M310 ones), so I wanted to double check if it's what I'm actually looking for. I just want them to last long and do their job properly, no extreme conditions functionality required..

Basically I just want to know if those are good and if there is any difference between the two (and if there is, how significant it is).


texts: Will 20 inch BMX wheels fit a folding bike (with 20 inch wheels)?

texts:
I'm renovating a folding bike with 20 inch wheels and want to replace the wheels.

Will BMX wheels fit ?

EDIT 22-Feb-2020: 10mm BMX wheels dropped straight in with no mods.

The BMX freewheel was threaded on, I just screwed it off and screwed on the shimano six-speed cluster from my old bike.  It needed extra spacers on both sides of the rear axle beyond what came with the BMX wheels: I used the ones from my old wheels so I didn't have far to look.

The only thing that shows that they are not made-to-fit is, on the front wheel, the ends of the axles stick out half an inch or so beyond the wheel nuts. I suppose I will cut them off in time.

I get it that I will probably have to go single-speed and therefore also replace the crank and chain. Is there any other reason they are not compatible, like different dropouts or axle width... I also know that a 2-inch BMX tire will fit in this frame, I fitted one once.


texts: Why is the rear wheel of my tandem bike skidding?

texts:
We have recently bought a tandem and the rear wheel skids out when riding. Any idea why this happens?

Comment below: When we are riding along in a straight line and there is an uneven surface it does this a lot. The heavier rider is on the front of the bike.


texts:
I'm getting a new rear wheel built for my commuter.  My bike frame does not support disk brakes.  I do not intend to use disk brakes in foreseeable future either .   I checked the price for Hope rear hubs.  The price for disk and non-disk are around the same.

Is here a reason I should't go with the disk brake hub?  Weight is not concern for me.

A good wheel being a substantial investment, why not future-proof the build?  ie, the wheel doesn't need to be rebuilt in case I decide on disk brake bike in future.


texts: Why do bikes have their drivetrains on the right?

texts: Every bicycle I have seen in my life has its gears and chain on the right side? Why is this? The only thing I could find regarding this question is this forum topic, which speculates about things such as the prevalence of right-handed people, the idea that it is easier to produce right-handed threads since they are more common, and the traditions of mounting a horse, but I couldn't find anything definite. Does anyone here have any idea?


texts: Smaller chainring on the right side of a bigger one possible?

texts:
I recently converted my bicycle from a derailleur setup to an internally geared hub. During the conversion, I also replaced the previous crankset (with three chainrings) by a crankset having a single chainring. I am very happy with the result because I mostly ride in flat to slightly hilly terrain where the gear transmission ratios provided by the hub suffice. I especially like the perfect chainline on the bike.

However, I might have to use the bike to climb steeper hills from  time to time. For this purpose, a crankset with two chainrings might be interesting. Because with the current chainline the chainring is already very close to the frame, there is no way of adding an extra, smaller chainring to the left of the chainring I would use 99 % of the time while keeping the perfect chainline for this most important chainring.

However, I have my old, now unused crankset to play around with. I wondered if it would be possible to mount a smaller chainring to the right of a bigger chainring. The answer is: Yes, it is possible, and to me it looks like it could work (see photo below). This way, I would have a rather bad chainline with the smaller chainring, but I would use it only in rare cases.

The question is: Is there a reason that the chainring size in all bicycles I have seen so far increases from left to right or can this be inverted without difficulties? Has anybody here tried to change the chainring order and can tell if it works?

Here is the photo of my old crankset with swapped chainrings:


texts: How is Sir Bradley Wiggins 3D printing his titanium handlebars?

texts:
I just read an article about how Sir Bradley Wiggins is going to try to break the 1 hour distance record soon. In it they mention

  One of the unique new features is a set of 3D printed titanium
  handlebars

How is that possible? I thought you can only 3D print plastics?


texts:
The brakes pads of my front brake are off center, so far that when the brake is disengaged the right pad rubs slightly against the wheel even though there is plenty of clearance between the wheel and the left pad.

From what I can tell, my bike has single-pivot caliper brakes. They look like this:

(Taken from Sheldon Brown's Site )

How do I re-center my brakes so that there is enough clearance for both pads?


texts: Is a tyre with sideways bulge going to cause damage to the rim or the hub or the axle?

texts:
My Schwalbe Marathon plus tour 26'' x 2.0 has a sideways bulge (both rear and front). In between the 2 tyres and tube there is a  anti puncture strip.

The rim seems not to be the problem.

I think the strip is the cause of the tyre's sideways movement. The tyre is already tight/difficult to mount. With the strip mounting  is even harder.

Will such a bulge / sideways movement eventually (i.e. in the long term) cause damage (e.g. by bending)  the rim, hub,  axel, or bearings ?

I am interested in the consequences of this sideways movement not how to fix it.

Update

The bulge is not pronounced. It is at a single spot. I see it when looking down on the tyre (bicycle is flipped over and resting on saddle). When spinning the wheel the tyre suddenly moves right then left (wobble). This happens over 10degrees arc.

I cannot determine the tyre pressure. I've pumped the tyre hard - my guess 3bar. I used soapy water between the rim and tyre.


texts: Are advantages of a 11/28T cassette noticeable over a 14/28T cassette?

texts: I have been riding a road bike for 2 years now and I am being forced to replace it due to damage. I am now considering upgrading to a 11-28T rear cassette. Would doing so give me a major advantage as opposed to a 14/28T cassette?


texts: I slightly wrecked my bike - looking for parts - how do I start?

texts:
2003 or 2004 Specialized Sirrus DISC - my son ran into a parked car and now I  need a new front wheel, rotor and fork. The whole thing is silver, Chromoly. I love this bike, it was a trusted commuter during an interesting season in my life.

My very trusted and loved LBS says "Just over $300" to get it back up and running because they only do top of the line work and if something should be replaced instead of repaired that is the way they go. But a new Sirrus (with no memories, and lower components) is about $450.  So I'm in the middle.... ideas from anyone?


texts: Alternative tools for servicing a Fox fork 2016+

texts:
Official tools are too expensive. I mean lower leg removal, seal driver and seal extractor tools. Forks with new seals from 2016 onwards. Which alternative tools do you use?

My fork: 2017 Fox 32 Float SC Performance 29", 100mm Travel, FIT4 Damper, Remote Lockout, Boost 15x110 KaBolt, Tapered.

UPDATE: Pictures of seal driver and lower leg removal tool. Taken from here.


texts: How long does a shifter, rear mech and front mech last?

texts: I am talking about absolutely dirt cheap components which are non-branded. In terms of number of kilometres how long do they last? The bicycle is ridden on city and country roads and maintained regularly.


texts: Can I attach a 40 spoke hub to a 36 spoke rim?

texts:
I just discovered a crack in the back rim of my mother's bike and I'd like to replace it. The trouble is that the hub is 40 spoke and I cannot find a 40 hole rim that would fit the bike and would be less expensive than buying a new bike.

However I can find plenty of 36 hole rims that are perfect (other than the fact they have 36 holes).

I was wondering if there are lacings that are safe for connecting a 40 hole gear hub to a 36 hole rim.

I would rather not replace the entire wheel because it would, due to the rather antique internal hub currently in use, likely mean adding a derailleur, replacing the gear-line and replacing the chain, which just seems a little overkill.


texts: 2 size bearings for hub which side of hub gets the bigger or smaller bearings?

texts:
The rear axel is a Kung Ten W5ER from a 1999 Trek 4000. The freehub was sticking so I was taking the axle apart to free up / clean / lube the freehub.

I noticed after it was apart that there are 2 sizes of ball bearings for the axle, and I don't know which side gets the bigger bearings.

I know I'm in trouble, any ideas out there?


texts: front luggage carrier for a single speed bike

texts:
I built a Single speed bike based on a old Road bike frame.
What I want to do is to install a luggage carrier to the front for some daily transports (because i like the retro look of those carriers).
But I don't want it to be permanently installed on my bike if there's any way.

So, does anyone know a possibility for a (removable) luggage carrier for a Road bike frame?


texts: Can I run a Schwalbe Marathon 26" on a Mavic CrossLand UST rim?

texts:
I have a old 26" mtb that I still use for commuting and occasional weekend rides. I need to change the tyres as the current ones are very old. I would like to buy tyres with low rolling resistance and good puncture resistance like the Schwalbe Marathon GreenGuard.

My bike has two Mavic CrossLand UST rims, like these (credits to http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=88503):

I currently mount two 26x1,5 tyres (do not ask me model or who had the idea to mount them :-) ). The problem is that, due to the UST rim, these are very difficult to mount (too small for the high rim), and I risk breaking the levers every time. I am wondering if I will have the same problem with the Marathon tyres.

If they do not work, which other (not too expensive) tyres would fit without many problems? I want to use them with tubes, as tubeless seems too much of a hassle to me.


texts:
I'm trying to work out what my frame is, and what size bottom bracket it needs (68/71/73 mm), and the recommended spindle length. I've attempted to measure both and it seems to have a 68/115 bottom bracket.

I can't find any serial number on the frame, but someone told me, circa 2002 that it looked like a Marin.

Complete bike

Yoke

Rear

Rear wheel hub, note the unusual markings

Rear from top

Crank


texts: How can I fix bad elevation data in a GPS log?

texts:
Lately I have been doing my bike rides with a GPS logger, and its elevation recording is extremely erratic and thus unusable. Please see:

http://gpsloglabs.com/share/d9393bc6c20b8b0debfe26234169be632eb019e0/

You can see from the altitude contour that it does some measurement, but it is too jerky, and thus my total climb is way too big.

How can I work around this problem? Is there any service that will 'flatten' my trip to an accurate topographical map and correct the altitude data?


texts: Can't do outdoor training for 150km and only on trainer. Can anyone give tips and training plan?

texts: I just found out that I cannot train outdoors for the next two months for the 150 km I was planning to attempt in the first week of September. Now I am planning to buy the In'ride 100 trainer from btwin as that's what my budget allows me to buy. Will I still be able to prepare for the 150km on the trainer. What are the advantages and disadvantages?  Can anyone give me a training plan and tips. Thanks.


texts: Are there any clip-on fenders that provide as full coverage as bolt-on fenders?

texts:
Are there any clip-on non-eyelet fenders that provide as full coverage as bolt-on fenders?

I live in Seattle and am buying a new carbon commuting rain bike. Many of the high end bikes do not offer fender eyelets. On the other hand, there are many new carbon gravel bikes that do provide fender eyelets. I am curious how important of a factor is it to consider a bike with eyelets. I understand clip-on fenders are available for any bike. But I read online that some clip-on fenders have a gap in their coverage or stop halfway down the wheel.

Are there any clip-on fenders that provide as full coverage as eyelet-installed fenders?


texts: What makes a good entry level road bike?

texts: I've been riding a mountain bike for years, but I prefer to go longer distances on paved ground, so I think a road bike would be better. When I ask what is a good bike, I don't need brands or models - more like what components of the bike should I look for, and what should I avoid? Additionally, is it necessary to "go big or don't go at all" as far as spending - getting a real good quality road bike for $500 to a few thousand, or should I cheap out on a $100-200 road bike, as it is my first, then get a better one when I'm more experienced?


texts:
I'm looking at two specific bikes.

Here is the first: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cross_trail_xiv.htm

It's a cyclocross style bike.

The second:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/turinoelite-discbrake-roadbike.htm

I'm just really unfamiliar with bikes, as I haven't bought a new one since I was a kid over 15 year ago. I will only be riding on pavement; however, the roads along my route are really rough with many potholes in the concrete. I think a roadbike would make more sense, but would the cyclocross be more durable?

If one has rims/tires that will need replacing much less than the other, that is what I want.  But I haven't seen any information on this online? Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance!


texts:
The chain on my internally geared hub bicycle is now too long even when the rear wheel is entirely pulled back. How do I tell whether it's sufficient to shorten the chain by removing some links, or if I need to buy a new chain altogether?

I've done 14335 km (8907 mi) and the chain is a Rohloff.


texts:
I have an Orange 2017 Diamondback Hook that came with an SRAM 1x8 drive-train.

I'd like to upgrade it to increase the range. What are my best options?

Thanks!


texts: My chainstays have been eaten by rust, can something be done?

texts:
I hope you are all safe and sound and your Christmas time is at least decent in these pandemic times.
The other day I decided to give a good clean to my steel city bicycle and I removed the stand, which was quite tightly closed on the frame. Doing this I discovered two horrible holes in the ground-facing side of them:

(I did not notice the ride quality as being very soft, but my other bike is an aluminium bike with a carbon fork, so probably I am biased towards stiffer bicycles)
The other side is in good condition, no rust inside or outside.
Now, is anything possible to fix them? I would like to get 2/3 years more of life from this frame ... in its current form, without building it as a frankenbikes or other funny contraptions :D , if possible.


texts:
I just got a bike with broken hanger and derailleur. As the owner didn't want to put money in good parts, I installed a cheap Sunrun derailleur compatible with index, and a new hanger. Just after I finished the work, adjusting the cable I noticed, that it have 8 speed shifter and 7 speed cassette. I know, that it's not an issue, and there is no problem to adjust it normally and I left the 8 as ghost, but this time I couldn't adjust it: if all the gears shifting up good in 7 > 1 direction, they will not shift good down (1 > 7) and vise versa. There is a point that both directions not shifting well, like remain at gear 7 while shifter showing 6 and remain at 1 while shifter showing 2.
Am I missing something? I cleaned and oiled the shifter, cleaned outers, put a new cable and new derailleur.


texts: Where can I find the maps my Garmin Edge 305 made?

texts:
Back between 2008 and 2010 I used a Garmin Edge 305 on my road and mountain bike. This was before Strava and overlays of routes on Google Maps so I would like to recover these rides and save them into my Strava.

The Garmin is long gone, and the computer I had the software installed on has been long since replaced. However, I do have a full backup of the hard drive. I was wondering what kind of files would the Garmin software have created, and where it saved those files. I do not recall the name of the software that was used. However, I do remember it being pretty crappy and laggy. This was most likely all done on a Windows XP or Windows Vista.

My questions are as follows:

1 - Did the Garmin save each route as a file?

2.1 - What type of file was it? Were they bundled in one big file?

2.2 - If so, what folder would I found that file?


texts:
Is there any manufacturer that makes specific anti-aero training jerseys for increased effort at lower speeds? Sort of like a braking parachute but more practical and subtle?

My reason for asking is that I want my fairly short commutes to give better training while not requiring unsafe speeds in city riding.

Edit: and just to explain.. I'm not so keen on adding weight to my bike or person - not only because it is unpractical, but also because it would make the effort more uneven and more like interval training rather than sustained effort.


texts:
So I went to a bike shop to check out the options that I could buy and came across this board that has the gear using system explained for beginners (I guess?).

Is it not literally suggesting cross-chaining? The bike I'd most likely buy will have Shimano tourney derailleurs, both front and back.. Is this the best way to go about using the setup? The setup is a 3×7 and would be used mostly on flat roads. I'm also thinking about removing two of the chainrings since only one chainring makes more sense. (probably keeping only the middle). Say, I make it a 1x setup after removing two chainrings, (keeping just the middle one), will I still meet with cross chaining?
Yes, I've looked at options that have a 1x setup, but they aren't very reliable, and most of them have cheap suspensions and cheap disc brakes on them, both of which I want to avoid.


texts:
I have some vintage 27 inch wheels and I was wondering if I could use some 700 x 32c Tires on them.

Thanks


texts: Can I find out about compatible newer models of my Shimano chainring?

texts:
I have an MTB that is quite old. The biggest chainring with 42 teeth is now done and I need a new one. It's a Shimano FCMC30, but it seems nobody is selling that new anymore. The chainring in question says "Shimano Hyperdrive C".
Since I can't find the original, is there maybe a single chain ring I could buy that is compatible to my type?
If so, where would I find such information e.g. online?


texts: Changing 700c x 28mm wheel/tire to 650c?

texts: I'm new to the biking community, I was wondering if I would be able to change my wheel/tire from 700c to 650c since I am short. How would I go about it, any recommendations for wheel/tires? I have a Retrospec Mantra Single Speed XS 43cm frame with 700c tires.


texts:
I need a replacement spoke for a Shimano WH-MT500 29er QR.
Shimano dealer manual does not mention the spoke length.
I've figued out its a 13G, double butted spoke but unsure about the length.  I've measured other spokes on the bike and from the hub to the base of the rim, including nipple, they are 290 mm. There are various sizes to buy online including 290 mm and 300 mm.  is there additional length beneath the rim I need to account for?
290 mm or 300 mm?


texts: Which cycle is preferable for daily commute to office in India?

texts:
I have two questions – which cycle and which bag?

I need to travel everyday 20 KM to and fro by office cab. I want to switch to bicycle.
Could you recommend a good enough bicycle in India at low price? I am planning to buy it on Amazon.

I also need to carry a backpack (for my lunch box and perhaps a book), I found messenger bag to be good (Why do cyclists prefer messenger bags over backpacks?). But since I'm not a regular cyclist, I want to know if 10KM is a short distance or long and any backpack is good enough for this distance. And when should I prefer backpack to messenger bag, because I think the strap of messenger bag would uncomfortable as it may keep shifting while walking or riding?

And I also may use the bicycle every weekends for going to library which is 15KM far from my home.

I am ready to buy bicycle and backpack soon after I get an answer. Please help me here.


texts:
As of yet, like most other Indians, I've only ridden a single speed, which was brought for 4000 rupees, about 13 years ago.. Yes, it's still in use!
My budget now is strictly 13000 INR for the bicycle (since other things like fenders, pannier will add to the cost). I live in Kolkata (the roads aren't great here), and the bike will be shared between me and my dad. He will be using it for commute (about 10 kilometres one way), six days a week. I'm planning on using it for relatively longer rides (70-80 kilometres), half of it at one go, maybe an hour or two worth of a break and then back. I guessed a hybrid would be the best option for it.. The need is reliability, longevity and cheap maintenance.
Through my "research" (I'm a noob, as you may already understand) I zero'd in on Mach City Munich 21 speed. When I called multiple shops to enquire about its availability, I was told that it's not available currently (would take about two weeks still, if at all). I was also suggested that Montra Downtown is a good option.
https://machcity.com/munich-21-speed/#:~:text=₹%2012%2C285%2F-&text=This%2021-speed%20road%20bike,Shifters%20for%20quick%2C%20breezy%20rides.
https://montra.in/hybrid-bikes/downtown-2019/
Now, Downtown has disc brakes. I'm not sure, but the far I know, they just get the wheel coming to a rather sudden stop, and are also harder and more expensive to maintain. Aren't they?
Both have the same shifters and break levers (three finger) Shimano EZY- fire EF-51, but downtown has Shimano TY300 rear derailleur (TZ40 for Munich) and Montra has TZ500 front derailleur with no mention of what the front derailleur on Munich is. Munich has a steel body whilst Downtown has an alloy body (6061).
What I also want to ask is, say, I get the Munich itself, is it a good idea to swap components before I begin? I've never ridden a geared bicycle before! Or should I just simply get it as is at first and then after I learn a little, then swap, if at all? The rear derailleur on Munich is TZ40, and TX-35 is available online for 899 rupees (Amazon). Different websites told me that TX series is better than TZ series, hence the question.
Please suggest what to do! And also if anyone has any other bike they'd suggest I buy! (please also tell me how I'd be able to find the other bikes and also the reliability of the customer support). I'm not sure if I should be buying online either, I've read various reviews that talk about how much more they've had to spend because of multiple problems with the bike (broken rims, problems with the cassette, derailleur, etc).
I'm also unsure whether triple chain rings are a good idea and would like to know if I should swap them out for something else or if I should just get a bike that's got a single chainring.
Thank you in advance!


texts: Minimal gear for dry winter riding in the city

texts:
New bike owner here. I ride everyday in the city for errands and eating out as long as it doesn't rain (I don't like riding in rain). As winter is approaching, I'd like to find a bag of some sort that would pack the following as I stroll the streets, or linger in coffee shops, in between commutes:

Helmet (clip from outside?)
Wind/Winter jacket (if it gets hotter and less windy, I can put it in the bag and ride)
iPad
Keys, Wallet, misc items

I don't intend to carry anymore things. A backpack could work (provided it doesn't make me sweaty), but is there one where the helmet can be securely clipped on?

Essentially, I want a single bag to carry all essential accessories, so I can just put 'em all in, and carry it with me between the rides, while freeing the hands from carrying anything else.

What are my options?

Update: I live in Victoria, BC, Canada - nearly always above zero degrees. Lots of sunshine. Windy. I don't intend to ride in even mild rain.

Update 2: I carry an U-lock that is attached to the frame, and I just realized that I can lock the helmet to the lock (helmets are unlikely to be stolen I guess), so I don't need to carry the helmet with me. That increases my options.


texts: Repairing Shimano front shifter ST-EF41-L

texts:
My son's bicycle gear shifter SHIMANO ST-EF41-L (front 3 speed) malfunctioned (Both levers became free).
I disassembled it and found 3 very small plastic parts on the bottom side of the shifter were  broken and the spring ring which attaches the 3 plastic parts to the axle were out of place.

Can anybody suggest where to get these small plastic parts?
Thanks


texts: My chain jumps off front chainring or changes gears in the rear when I jump over stuff. Is there a way to prevent this?


texts: Should I worry about a chipped carbon mountain bike frame?

texts:
The other day while I was racing my Specialized Stumpjumper I noticed a chip on the frame. It's on the rear support bar right behind the seat post between the rear tire.

My teammate who is a mechanic said its just outer damage, they tapped along the frame without hearing a change in pitch. Others agreed. I brought it into the bike shop the next day and they said that I shouldn't ride the bike and were willing to sell me a new frame. Are they just trying to get money out of me or is it really cracked?


texts:
I'm currently building up a new bike from a vintage Scott Windriver MTB frame. My plan is to install a Shimano Zee 10-Speed drivetrain because I don't really need more gears in my area, I want it to be durable and there's a huge discount on it. But I'm not sure about the compatibility with my frame.
The bottom bracket is 68mm BSA and the rear dropouts are 135mm apart from each other.
My guess is that I need a FC-M640 crankset. It comes with a 68mm Hollowtech II bottom bracket, will it fit?
For the rear mech I can also choose between "23-28t Close ratio" and "32-36t Wide ratio". Does this concern the number of teeth on the biggest sprocket of the cassette? I rather want to have lower gears so would the close ratio be the right option? How does it affect the choice of the cassette?
And - last but not least - will I get a hub that fits my frame, the cassette and the rear mech? I'm not sure about how common 135mm dropouts are nowadays.

Thanks for any help!


texts: Can I use rimless tape with an inner tube on a regular (tube style) rim?

texts:
The plastic and cloth rim tapes at my LBS come in a couple of sizes: too narrow and too wide. Too narrow barely covers the spoke holes (meaning, it doesn't). Too wide gets into the bead area, making it (slightly) more difficult to mount a tire, and worse, it catches on the tire when I mount or dismount it, and when I check the mount to make sure I haven't pinched the tube. Both plastic and cloth tapes move laterally, potentially exposing spoke holes. Aamof, the cloth rim tape I installed a couple of rides ago has already shifted a little. Once off center, both cloth and plastic tapes take a set, making them tend to stay off center.

Tubeless tapes have an actual adhesive backing, as opposed to the tacky stuff on cloth tapes, and nothing at all on the plastic ones. The adhesive should keep the tape from moving (right?). Some tubeless tapes are also very thin, so are unlikely to be pushed off center by the tire during mounting/dismounting. Obviously thin tubeless tape can take the pressure, but I don't know if will adequately protect a tube. Has anyone tried using tubeless tape with a tube on a tube type rim? How about thin tubeless tape?

For what it's worth, I ride 700 mm x 25 mm road tires, 100 to 110 psi. I don't get many flats due to rim tape failure--I check the tape when I repair a flat (which I do way too often).

I have another rim tape question. I'll post it separately. Thanks in advance.


texts: Suggestions for outdoor commercial (security/parking) stands

texts:
I'm looking for suggestions for space efficient stands for parking multiple bikes.

A sports club (not cycling) for which I sit on the committee is looking to solve a bit of a problem. At the moment many people come to train in the evenings/weekend by bike and end up piling them up in one of the gym rooms. This has been mostly fine because it's dry, relatively secure and they aren't really in the way. The numbers are increasing, though, and ''something has to be done''.

So we're on the search for some stands. We have an amount of outside space that can host some racks, but we want to buy something that can maximise the numbers held, while hopefully still allowing random access (i.e. any bike can be taken away at any time by its owner).

The current suggestion is http://www.esedirect.co.uk/p-2246-the-s-stand-bike-rack.aspx - we've space for about five of these style (i.e. ten bikes).

I feel sure that we must be able to fit more bikes into the space.

So without knowing the dimensions within which we must work, I'm looking for a few candidate types of solutions which are particularly space efficient.

Edit

The main problem I think with these 'S' stands that have been proposed is that, when placed against a wall, I think that the asymmetric nature will mean that, when busy, the slot facing the wall is likely to not be used.

I must admit that my initial reaction is that you have to argue as to why to not just get the Sheffield stand. The wall mounted option looks like an interesting idea and that was certainly the kind of response I was hoping to get!


texts: Rubber washer in camelback Antidote Reservoir 1.5L

texts: I've got this camelback blue waterbag for my bike rucksack. I removed the black rubber washer from the opening wheel for cleaning and now i cannot put it back properly. Could you send me close up photos showing where exactly the washer should be and on what side? A vid would be great, too


texts: I want to convert my 27 speed 3x9 to a 1x9. What do you recommend for chainring and cassette combinations? What are the cautions?


texts:
It is time to change my bike's hydraulic disc brakes . Now I have a Hayes Stroker Ryde system , but I want to order a Shimano M395 instead . The question is that I don't know If I have to order the rotors with brakes or not . Both brakes are for 160 mm rotor but they don't look alike .

This is my hayes brake rotors

And this is the rotors of shimano m395


texts: Bike with a SRAM XD(R) freehub body and trainer with a Shimano freehub body?

texts:
I would like to change the wheelset of my bike, but I also have a smart trainer (Kickr core).
The wheelset I've retained so far are the Mavic Allroad, that are available with a Shimano or XDR freehub body. I understood that XDR free bodies are a longer version of the XD, so I could use a XD cassette with it — with a spacer.
My interest of using a XD cassette is to use a 10/52 cassette, instead of 11/51 that I could get from with a Shimano HG11 freehub body (no MicroSpline for the Mavic Allroad wheels yet).
But what about the trainer? To limit the cost and because I care less about the 10 tooth sprocket with the trainer, I was considering using a 11/51 shimano cassette on it with the same number of speeds. Would there be problems with the spacing/positionning of the cogs or with the derailleur?


texts: Single Speed / Fixie - Chain tension / uneven tension

texts:
I recently changed my chain and noticed it has uneven tension (probably my chain ring being out of rounds). I followed Parktool's video and set the tightest spot to have about 0.25 inch movement up and down.

I wanted to confirm that I did everything correctly, it’s been sort of hard for me to judge if the tension is correct. I’m also not sure if the noise that the chain makes is normal, or if it’s too tight. I have attached videos for the tension and noise.

I would appreciate it if someone could confirm if everything seems good? Thanks!

Chain tension (I start the video at the tightest spot)
https://imgur.com/a/7CFWc0b

Chain sound:
https://imgur.com/a/8fgiLlH


texts: What is the effect on battery life of enabling glonass support on garmin edge 25?

texts:
I'm considering the purchase of a new GPS. The Garmin Edge 25 has most of the basic features I need. However, high accuracy is important to me as I do trail mapping for my local MTB club. I thought that getting a unit with GLONASS support would help improve accuracy, but I was concerned about runtime since the manual indicates it will reduce battery life.

What is the impact on battery life of enabling GLONASS support on the Garmin Edge 25?


texts: Saw two different tires. One marked 700c 38mm 40 622 measured 1.25 " wide.Other tire ,same markings but with addition of marking, one and five eighths x one and a half,measured 1.5" wide. If both 38mm wide why quarter inch difference in width?


texts: How to determine wheel size on touring bike

texts: I have a touring bike that has tires that read 36 X 2.0.   It is a 9 speed and I want to  buy new wheels.  Can I buy 26 X1.75 and how does the gear system play into the rear tire sizing?


texts: How to prevent hood covers from slipping up?

texts:
I noticed my hood covers (the rubber one) are slipping up -- I pull them down, align with hoods, some time later again (when riding of course) -- they are up. It is really annoying. Granted I put my hands on them, and with the force it is expected in sense of the physics, but I would like them to stay put as they did last year.
Is it a matter of time, I use those hoods and covers the 3rd year, or there is a way/trick to make them sit put and don't move? Hardcore gluing hoods and covers together is not a best option since this in turn blocks access to hood screws and makes replacing bar tape harder.
My brifters are Shimano Sora STI.


texts: Received an old bike from a family member and I've tried to inflate the tires but whenever I attach the pump to the tire it seems that I can't inflate it. All I hear is a hissing and it feels like all the air is escaping out the back of the pump. Both the bike and the pump haven't been used in several years so it's possible one or both is broken. I believe the bike has Schrader valves and the pump works for any type of valve but I'm not completely sure. Does anyone know a way to test if either is broken or a way to make sure there is a good connection between the valve and pump? Thanks x


texts: I can't find my skewer that came with the trainer. Can I use my bike skewer?

texts: I have misplaced my trainer bike skewer. Can I use the one from my bike?  I am not concerned about scratches.


texts: Are there two Raleigh bicycle companies?

texts:
When I go to Walmart and other department stores I find cheap bike like Raleigh!

But when I go to a local bike shop and buy a mountain bike by Raleigh but its a way better quality bike then at Walmart! Is there two bike companies that have the same name or are they the same?

Please help because I have a Raleigh Tokul 2 that I got from my local bike shop and it's not a cheap mountain bike. Its good quality but I see cheap Raleighs that don't last long at department stores. Is mine also cheap and crappy or is it a different company?


texts:
I have a JetBlack M1 Pro Mag Trainer. I use my road bike on it, with slick tires. However it is still pretty noisy.

What are the ways to reduce noise from a magnetic trainer?


texts: Folding bike rear derailleur upgrade help

texts:
Hey guys,

I have the Tern Link B7 7 speed folding bike. It has 11-28T casette (you can see it in the picture) and I want to upgrade it to 14-34T one. So I bought the casette but the stock rear derailleur can't accomodate it, not enough clearence (height-wise).

So I decided to upgrade the rear derailleur. After a short research I narrowed my options down to 2 models: Shimano Tourney RD-TX55 and Shimano Tourney RD-TX35.

But upon seeing the picture I attached here, online bike store guy told me they are both incompatible with my bike.

Any ideas why and how can I find a compatible rear derailleur?


texts: How can I upgrade to a better gear range?

texts:
I have an old, second hand road bike but in good condition. I'm doing a lot cross country cycling and the struggling uphill with the current gear set up.

This is what I have:

Sora RD 3300 derailleur (total capacity: 29T; largest sprocket 27T; front chainring tooth difference 14T)
Sora Flight Deck 2x8 shifters
CS-HG50 12-23t cassette
52/42 chain rings
Hub: don't know

what I've been considering is:

Only replace the smaller chain ring to a 39T (or do I need a whole new chain set?)
Only replace the cassette to another 8 speed or 9 speed (if hub compatible) up to 25 or 27t
Replace both cassette and chain ring(s)

What is the most effective and cost effective way to upgrade this set up?
Would the shifter and the derailleurs work with a 9 speed cassette as long as I stay on max tooth range?

Thanks!


texts: Is there anything wrong with fat blobby frame welds?

texts:
Are fat blobby welds inferior, other than aesthetically?

Here's three examples, one's a BSO, one's a decent/good Trek and one's an expensive Felt downhill full-suspension bike.


texts: Upright bicycle efficiency & seat movement

texts:
The Kwiggle is folding bike that has been around for a while now (even though doesn't seem to be for sale yet): https://kwiggle.odoo.com/en_US/startseite

Apart from it's folding capabilities I was interested in the more upright riding positions which they seem to claim that "You ride faster and your quadriceps have to work less." (https://kwiggle.odoo.com/en_US/home-kwiggle-vorteile)

I find this a quite interesting claim in terms of efficiency. Is there more evidence of this, and if yes, why aren't more "city bikes" doing this?
Another interesting "city efficiency" aspect seems to be the movable seat which is highlighted more in this video and they claim "The movable saddle follows your natural hip movement.":

Personally I think the combination of the movable seat with a more upright riding style (which is what race riders do to increase speed) is a quite interesting combination!
So my question is about general efficiency of this approach. Is it an entire waste of energy compared to regular diamond shaped bikes or is there something to the combination of upright riding + movable saddle?
EDIT
Personally I think most answers are addressed by non-european cyclist. In Europe (Netherlands and Denmark) an upright "dutch" bike is the norm for urban cycling and has showed several postural and efficiency advantages.
A dutch bike posture seems to be very similar to the one presented in this Kwiggle prototype:

With regards to the "swinging saddle" there's very little evidence showing how efficient this system can be. Personally it does sound interesting as the pedal stroke is leveraged by the hip moving towards the direction of the stroke.
Regarding the rest of the features of the bike, there's many things left to be desired, but the question is mainly about the "upright posture" (already established in Europe) and the "swinging saddle".
I'd be curious if there are any other "swinging saddle" prototypes out there since that seems to be the novelty of this approach.


texts: Old 6 speed casette on a new modern wheel

texts:
I've had this old Batavus sprint bike sitting in the shed for years, and recently got into road racing. So I've bought a newish used modern road race bike and recently upgraded it's wheels. Since the old wheels were just lying around I tried fitting them to the good 'ol Batavus.

They were a little squeeze (research has shown there's a 4mm difference.. 126mm vs 130mm on the newer ones), but I got them in fine.

Of course, the only problem is is that there's no cassette on the rear wheel I fitted. My question is, can I fit the old cassette on this new wheel? Or will the cassette body be totally different? Or can a cassette body be transferred to the new wheel? I'm not sure how that stuff works.

It's a Shimano 600 6-speed setup.


texts: Cheap carbon-fiber handlebar from Hong Kong. Will it break?

texts:
I bought a flat carbon handlebar from Hong Kong, unbranded, at ebay. I've paid about AUD25...

I wonder, will it break? How can I tell whether the built quality is OK?

It is for a road bike that I mostly use for commuting, so a bit of bunny hopping.


texts: Do deep rims increase the chances of falling in strong wind?

texts:
In a group I follow there was a recent post from a fellow member who complained about how his deep rims (Fulcrum Racing Speed XLR 55mm, if it matters) caused him to fall down because of a sudden wind gust and how a car behind him managed to stop in time before driving over him.
I have no experience with deep rims myself, but I have the impression that the side area of a cyclist is still larger than the rim area, thus it shouldn't make that much of a difference.
Can deep rims increase the chances of falling because of wind?


texts: Looking for recommendation of disc brake to replace Formula RX

texts:
I have a relatively old hardtail MTB installed with Formula RX brake system and rotors SM-RT53 (160mm) / SM-RT53M (180mm). Now I have to replace the brake system and would like to have some advice.
To be honest I am overwhelmed by the huge amount of product selections. Could anyone give me some direction or specific recommendation?
It was OK with the Formula RX performance, and I would like to have something with similar price/performance classes.
However, robustness of brake system is more important for me than brake performance. I ride just tour on not really challenging trails, prefer ascending than downhill, and I may have trailers with a kid. And I would probably at first keep both SM-RT53(M) unchanged.
Are 4-pistons necessary? or if my rotors are suitable for those?


texts: Rockshox poploc remote lockout not working

texts:
Asking for a mate, so I don't have all the details but hopefully someone could point me into the right direction.
He's got a semi-recent second hand Cube hardtail with an unidentified Rockshox fork that works fine otherwise, except for the lockout. It's using a remote Rockshox Poploc system. It should be installed correctly since it was done by an expert and the dial on the leg turns as it should but the suspension doesn't lock out.


texts: What is the best Rear Derailleur for single speed to 3 speed conversion

texts: I am converting my Sonders eBike from a single speed to a three speed and I need some help finding the best Derailleur. I would like to use a Shimano Altus as I understand that they are a step up from the Tourney line. My rear freewheel cogset is 16,19,22t and my front chainwheel is a 48t. This gives me the same speed ratio as my original when I'm using the 19t rear cog. The original chain is 1/8" and I believe that my new chainwheel is also 1/8". My derailleur uses a SunRace Shimano Compatible Index Hanger Plate. The question is, do I use a short, medium or long cage and what is the model number? Thanks for your help, I am converting 2 of these bikes and would like to only buy the parts once.


texts: Does it matter which cassette I get for downtube friction shifters?

texts:
My grandpa gave me his old 1974 Raleigh International (all original Campy) as a graduation present. Since the stock wheels are for tubular tires, and I do want to ride it around town, I want to get wheels for clincher tires so I can change the inner tube when I flat rather than having to mess with glue jobs.

A new rear wheel means that I can have an option of getting a rear wheel with shimano hyperglide so I can choose modern cassettes. Because the shifters are friction shifters rather than indexed shifters, does it matter how many cogs are in the cassette? Do I have to stick with 5 or could I even go to 10?

I stand corrected that the frame is steel and not alumninum. I was mistaken because the bike is significantly lighter than other steel-framed bikes I have dealt with. I apologize for this error.


texts: I just noticed these numbers on the inside of my Reynolds AR58 carbon wheel (see picture). The left paragraph seems to provide information about the product and manufacturing date/place. Does anybody know what the numbers/codes in the right paragraph mean?


texts:
I want a bike that will take me to and from work quickly, but not make it too easy.

To get to work, I have to ride a quarter mile up a steep hill, which will be difficult on a bike. I want to spend less than 1k on this bike, but I want it to be high quality.

I'm 6/2 masculine build 230lbs


texts: What tension should the front derailleur cable be when setting it up?

texts:
I'm attempting to setup my front derailleur. I've slackened off the cable, adjusted the L screw so the derailleur just clears the chain. What position should the adjusting barrel on the handles be set to and how tight should I pull the cable before tighten it to the derailleur?

I seem to be getting rub in the middle gear at the front, but no run on the top and bottom cog.


texts:
I'm interested in learning more about trials bikes.  I've seen them in pictures and videos with the riders doing really impressive stuff on them; incredible balancing, huge jumps, etc.

This type of riding is new to me and seems very fun (sort of reminds me of bmx riding as a kid).  My regular routine consists of mainly road and cx riding on normal frames with 700c wheels.

I like to do balancing work and jumps on my cx bike, but there is a limit.  The wheels are large and harder (I imagine) to get off the ground than a smaller wheel.  Also, although I treat my cx bike pretty rough, and bang it around, I don't want to crack a carbon frame trying to land a big drop (or jump, or whatever).

I'd love to start riding one of these trials bikes, however, I don't know much about them or what even makes a "trials" bike.

I basically know that:

they don't have a seat post or saddle
The wheels are smaller than a 700c wheel, some 20", some 24", some 26"?
they look superficially like a bmx bike

So my question is what makes a "trials" bike, and, what are the most important features to consider when either buying a used one, or building one myself?  I'm specifically interested in the wheel sizes ( why choose one over another ), dropout types and rear spacing.


texts: I can not find any numbers on frame, only the crown on tank.


texts:
How or where do I clean my bike in winter?

I live in Michigan, USA and winter can be very harsh, along with the added salt used for ice removal.  I am not commuting or anything, just occasionally riding for fun.

Not cleaning my bike after a ride does not really seem like a good idea, so I would assume this would be a common issue.

I tried just using hot water, but it is punishingly cold and difficult.  Maybe it just one of those "suck it up" type things?

Here is a somewhat related question, but more about chain cleaning.


texts: Lock to fit around Big Apple tyres (28x2.35)

texts:
I have a new bike on the way which has Big Apple tyres (28x2.35), which will be my first experience with tyres this big. I'll also be installing fenders.

I'm wondering if my Kryptonite Evo Mini-5 is going to fit around the rim/tyre/fender (Sheldon Brown-style), and if not, is there a Kryptonite U-lock which will?


texts: Can I use pin-held V-Brake inserts in (cantilever) screw-held Shimano M Type brake pad holders?

texts:
I have 1990s Shiman Deore XT cantilever brake pad holder shoes with smooth studs.  I believe these are "M Type" cartridges/inserts. The replaceable inserts slide in and are held in place by a screw / grub. They look like this:

I need to replace the replaceable inserts. However, I am having a hard time finding replacement inserts.

Is it possible to slide in "V brake" inserts that are readily available as replacement inserts?  For example, could I use the following inserts in the shoes shown above?

Or, are there any other inserts that can work with the Deore XT brake shoes that I have?  As a side note, there is corroboration  that aftermarket replacements for my brake shoes are hard or impossible to find (see here and here, e.g.).


texts: Are there any major drawbacks to using a track frame as a frame for a fixed-gear or single-speed commuter?

texts:
I follow a few communities which have a lot of fixie and single-speed riders. Most of the riding discussed is commuting around the city, and often, riders will show off their new bikes, upgraded hardware, or will post photos of parts needing maintenance, seeking repair advice.

I've noticed that many of the bikes are in fact track bikes, based on the track fork-ends where one would normally find dropouts.

Does using a track frame for day-to-day city commuting have any drawbacks, either for the rider, or for the frame itself?


texts:
my name is Benjamin and for quite some time now i have been riding my bicycle to college and other places. The bike i have now is only very simple but has saved as a great alternative for transport and is just simplify great to ride. Having ridden my bike so many times for so long i have now started to grow a taste of what kinda bike i would like to have, my dream bike. The features i would like for my next bike to have would be as followed:

(27 gears) making going up hill much easier and going down hill much faster.
(Efficient front and rear brakes) ensuring full controller over the bike.
(FOX XTD REMOTE LEVER) to adjust bikes suspensions for any journey ahead.
(Remote lever seat post) for maximum comfort when riding on rough terrains.
(Generated back wheel) to supply power to front and back lights.
(large rear rack) to allow for transportation such as bags.
(Onboard lock for back wheel) to allow for added security.
(Onboard portable pump) to ensure good inflation for tires.
(reflectors including wheels) for added visibility.
(battery powered lights) for having to stop in dark where path is not available.

Crazy i know! but as you can see with me wanting such a pasific bike with all these features finding such bike is just impossible leaving me to this question.HOW IN HELL DO I GET SUCH BIKE? is there some place where this beast of a bike can be made? or would i be better off buying a bike and instilling these upgrades my self? if i do take the second option how would i have to go about it and what would i have to do step wise and be wary of?

Super exited to hearing what you guys have to say to my questions and thank you.


texts: When truing a wheel, is it enough to only use a tension meter, and not a truing stand?

texts:
I presume that if you get all spoke tensions equal, and at the recommended tension for the spoke thickness, then the wheel will be true.
My intention is to get a wheel reasonably true (laterally) by seeing where it rubs against the break blocks in situ, and then use the tension meter to fine tune it. Just means I don't have to purchase an expensive stand to measure that the hub is centred, or the rim is over the centre of the axyl. Are these last two measurements unecessary if the tensions are equal?


texts: I'm considering some Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires so I can continue commuting to work during the UK winter ( -3°C to +8°C, with some snow and ice). However, I only have V-brakes. Are those brakes going to be acceptable in sub-zero temperature, occasionally while snowing?


texts: Use a KMC X10 SL chain on an 11 Speed cassette?

texts: I have two KMC X10 SL chains that I never ended up using. I got my new bike, which came with a KMC X11 chain (the bike is Specialized Diverge Comp). I am wondering if I can use the X10 chain on this bike?


texts: Looking to replace my Shimano brake pads. What is the difference between M65/T3 and M70/T3 threaded V brake pads?


texts:
Around where I live the common wisdom is that on a road, gravel or similar bike, a carbon fork will cushion some of the vibration more than a metal fork.

On some web discussion forums I see that opinion reiterated. I don't have any personal experience of it yet.

If indeed it is the case, given that composites can be incredibly rigid, how is this damping implemented? Is this a property of the composite that it can be formed in such a way that rigidity is in certain directions only? Finally, does anyone have any pointers to evidence of this fork property? Is this urban legend or is there truth to it?


texts:
I'm told that when touring (carrying a big load) you're much better off to have 26" wheels than 28". But most second-hand bikes seem to come with 28".

Is it possible to replace the larger 28" wheels with smaller 26" ones?

What sorts of issues would I run into?

pedals hitting the ground?
v brakes not being able to reach tires?
gear/derailleur issues?
etc?


texts: Front derailleur not reaching the "L" screw!

texts:
I was having this problem with my bike recently. While the FD can switch without an issue between the second and third (largest) ring, it can't get the chain to the first ring (smallest). I recalibrated the FD but the problem remains as it is. I noticed though that no matter how much I unscrewed the "L" screw, for the known reasons, the FD didn't reached the new limit but only when I gave it a slight push with my fingers. Is there anything I can do to make the FD reach the "L" limit screw? Btw the FD is an Shimano FD-TZ500.
Thanks!


texts:
Are bikes with aggressive positions required to achieve high fitness levels when training on a bike?

My bike fitter claimed that a more aggressive posture is better for transferring power than a more upright position.

Janheine also agreed that a more aggressive position improves power transfer.
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/02/12/myth-5-an-upright-position-is-more-comfortable/

If their claims were true, I would need something like a gravel, road, touring, or cyclocross bike to achieve high levels of fitness.

Interestingly, TrainerRoad doesn't seem to agree.
https://blog.trainerroad.com/does-bike-geometry-affect-power-output-we-asked-an-expert/

Assuming proper fit, gearing, and training zones. If I use a city or hybrid bike, would it really keep me from pushing hard enough for fitness gains?

What if I get a hybrid bike fit instead of a road bike fit?

Imagine if Chris Froome trained on a city or Dutch bike. Could he have achieved a high VO2 max of 88.2?

Speed isn't the only benefit of fitness. Getting fit often improves our health and energy levels.

There are reasons for a more upright position such as comfort, the lack of room for an additional bike, visibility, cheaper brakes levers and shifters, more room for accessories on handlebars, better vision, room for a front basket as the handlebar needs to be higher and of the right shape to accommodate it, and even safely allowing high power output downhill. If your less expensive bike is less aggressive, you might prefer to leave it on a trainer.


texts: Replaced tyre and tube, now the rear gears will not stop

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Just put on a tyre and innertube, fits perfectly, but now when I stop pedalling the gears at the back keep moving so the chain just sags down so much that it hits the wheel etc.

Any ideas on how to fix it, or why this is happening?

Cheers guys

Jeremy


texts: Adjusting brake rub on a mini-v brake (Giant Propel)

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I have a Giant Propel and the front left brake is constantly rubbing and sticking against the wheel. I've tried adjusting the bolt highlighted below, which I believe is the spring tension, but loosening or tightening this bolt seems to do nothing.

I've also tried adjusting the barrel adjuster but when I loosen it, the right side (which isn't rubbing) will move further out from the wheel, where as the left side (the one that's rubbing) won't move at all no matter how much I twist the barrel.

Does anyone know how to centre these brakes to prevent them rubbing?

Thanks.


texts:
I would much appreciate it if someone could help me identify this bike?

i went ahead and did the measurements asked as well as took a photo for scale. the folding bike infront of a 29" mountain bike tire

tyre reads 12x38
from ground level to the topside center is 21in
from the rear axle to the pedal gear axle is 9.5inches
distance between the two wheel axles is 23.5in


texts: Why doesn't my (battery-powered) light work in the cold?

texts:
I've got a cheap LED lamp running on three AAA NiMH batteries which stops working when exposed to near-freezing temperatures; is there a likely reason for this?

The lamp has been dropped a number of times due to my incorrigible clumsiness and the batteries are a year or two old; could either of these factors play a role?


texts: How is the finishing stage of truing a laced wheel improved by adjusting spokes in groups of 4?

texts:
The finishing stage of truing a laced wheel
usually consists of fine lateral adjustments
yet those meant to remove
the last perceptible errors often create
almost equal errors elsewhere on the rim.
These new errors include both tracking and spoke-tension inconsistencies,
even when spoke twisting has been scrupulously avoided
and the rim /spokes have been reconditioned by
overstressing and relaxing them after each adjustment.

This can be frustrating even if spokes are adjusted
in left-side / right-side pairs as suggested
in the section Lateral Truing on page 102 of
The Bicycle Wheel, Third Edition, by Jobst Brandt.

  Lateral Truing
   · · ·
  To correct a lateral error, tighten spokes in the error zone
  from one flange and loosen ones from the opposite flange.
  If the wobble is to the right, loosen the spokes on the right
  and tighten those on the left.

Some bicycle mechanics minimize fine-tuning surprises
by adjusting spokes in groups of four.

How is the finishing stage of truing a laced wheel
  improved by adjusting spokes in groups of four rather than in pairs?

(This is a
 leading question
 and as such has been
 answered by its poster.
 Feel free to improve that answer or add another.)