texts: Difference between Mavic Deemax Ultimate 2011 and latest version

texts:
Have an offer to get Mavic Deemax Ultimates from 2011 for my downhill bike. They cost half as much as the current model.
Can anyone tell me what the changes are compared to the current models?


texts: Can I use Shimano trigger shifter with my X3 SRam gears?

texts:
My bike has SRam X3 gears and a grip shifter. I'd like to change for a trigger shifter. In the bike shop where I bought it, they say that I can change for a Shimano shifter (they don't have SRam). I've read that they aren' compatible.

Is it true? How can I discover if they are compatible before changing the shifter and the grip?


texts: Is it possible to use a 9 speed rear shifter with 11 speed cogs/cassette? Is there a disadvantage?

texts:
I'm new to biking and I plan to upgrade my bike, but with limited funds I can only upgrade the wheelset and cogs(cassette).

Is it okay if I add the 11spd cogs but my shifter is only 9 speed (limited funds for now but will definitely buy a 11 shifter.)

What will happen?  Will it be OK?


texts:
Some aero’ wheels are an aluminium rim with a carbon fibre shroud. On a Mavic Cosmic SLS rear wheel, I’ve found that the carbon fibre shroud is separating from the aluminium rim. Just visible in the photo, it is delaminating in the same place on both sides over a length of about 10cm:

Other side with a pick to show the separation:

It’s something I’ve seen before, so to me it’s a known issue- but I don’t know what the solution is. It makes a 1/Rev creaking noise which is a nuisance and I don’t know how quickly it will deteriorate.

At the moment it doesn’t show any damage, it is just separating from the rim. Is it rideable? Is it fixable? Or is the wheel finished?


texts:
I have a Shimano FD-M735 currently on my bike, and I would like to replace the aging FC-TY33 that I have, with a FC-M730 ideally, but they are too pricey. However, I have found a FC-MC36 and a FC-MC34 (42T/32T/22T) at a very reasonable price.

Is there any reason why the FD-M735 and the FC-MC34/36 shouldn't work together?

I have the old style XTII gear shifters:

As an aside, I presume that the FC-MC34/36 is of lower spec/quality when compared to the FC-M730. Would that be a correct assumption?


texts:
The bearings in my freehub are starting to go and I'd like to replace the part. Sadly I have no idea of the part I need to replace it with and cannot find anything specific. My bike is a Merida 140 2016 with a 10 speed shimano rear cassette. The hub specification I can find is limited to "Rear Hub: Bearing Centerlock- 12mm rear" with a slightly better model saying "Rear Hub: Shimano XT 12mm rear"

Searches for 10 speed shimano freewheel don't give me anything that looks like this.

Anyone any ideas what would work?


texts: Why does not the derailleur adjustment work the same way while riding?

texts:
I suppose most of the people have noticed it. While adjusting both front and rear derailleurs, it will shift accordingly, when you have adjusted or are adjusting it, but when you test it by riding, the adjustment fail to perform the same way, Why does this happen?

How does the added weight affect the shifters?


texts: How to tell if a chain should be replaced with park chain checker when it doesn't fit?

texts:
I have a park chain checker CC-3.2 which has two sides to indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75% wear.

However, since I often have some filthy chains due to off-road riding and daily commuting and multiple bikes, I lose track of which ones are worn a little and which ones are worn a lot, Especially after a winter of commuting in salty east coast slush, fine sandy spray from the rainy season, and dirt/sandy stuff flying off my tires from rail trails and singletrack. I've definitely had chains worn well over 1%.

So, Other than performance issues, when neither the .5% and .75% sides of the chain checker fit, how can I tell whether a chain is relatively new (and not well worn) or whether it's really worn (probably past 1%) just using my super basic chain checker?

Does it fit differently or is there anything specific to look for while it's sitting on the chain?

To rephrase: If I have two chains, one with say 0.25% wear and one with 1.25% wear and neither chain allows the indicators on the Park CC-3.2 tool to drop between links, how do I tell the difference? Can I do that by just looking at the park chain checker?


texts: Is cycling with crystal sunglasses dangerous?

texts:
I'm a commuter cyclist. I have a pair of Persol sunglasses with leaded crystal lenses. Do y'all think this is dangerous in case of an accident? I have terrible thoughts of wrecking and glass shards going into my eyes, but I'd rather not carry two pairs of sunglasses. Thanks in advance for your answers.

Edit to respond to below comment because I can't comment yet: I don't know their behavior when impacted... that's kind of what I'm getting at with this question.

Richard


texts: What are the long-term effect of riding with a chain that's too short?

texts: I bought my bike late November 2017, and have been riding it with the same chain ever since. I've only done very light riding with the longest rides I've ever done amounting to 60km. Last week, I took my bike to a bike shop to get my bearings repacked ang regreased, while the mechanic was tuning my gears for accurate shifting, he noticed my derailleur was too stretched out when at the largest gear(Shimano SLX 2X11). Long story short, he explained to me why he thought my chain was too short.  For the four years I've ridden my bike, I have never had any issues with it, so when the time came to replace my chain because it had 0.75 wear, I purchased a brand new Shimano CGNHG701 11S chain (same model as the previous). It's about to arrive in a few weeks, and I'm worried about my drivetrain (which was used for four years for over 2000km) possibly having any issues with my new chain. Any response is appreciated, cheers!


texts: Looking for Bar-end shifters (Shimano Golden Arrow)

texts:
I want to use bar-end shifters instead of downtube shifters on my '85 Koga Miyata Traveller, but I don't know if it can be done easily.
I believe all components are original, because the derailleurs are:
Front Derailleur Shimano FD-A105, 105 Golden Arrow
Rear Derailleur Shimano RD-A105, 105 Golden Arrow
I guess, I need friction shifters, because it's easier, right? If it's also possible to use indexed shifters, which would you suggest?
For example, would they work:
https://vintagenosbicycleparts.com/suntour-bar-end-shifters-accushift-plus-7-speed-barcon-nos/ ?
Any hints/suggestions are much appreciated.


texts: Alternative uses for an aluminum MTB frame

texts:
Any alternative use for old mountain bike tyres and inner tube?

So my frame has a large crack near the headtube and I am replacing it. Could I use the frame in any other way? E.g.

give it away for recycling, get a few beers with the money
make vases from the tubes
make shot glasses from the tubes (e.g. with wooden bottoms)
beat people with it (!?!? one friend proposed this)

Anything more sensible? Maybe I could make some tool or stand out of the material?


texts:
On one of my old bike, I have a twisted Presta valve:

Unlike this user, I can't put glue on my valve because the air is leaking at the tip of the valve (where it is twisted). So, I want to know if I can change only the tip of my valve or if it is possible to just change the valve without throwing the tube.


texts: Do you know of tubes that are fully flat-proof?

texts: I am looking into whether there are inner tubes that are fully flat proof.  Do you know how much they would affect performance and comfort?


texts:
I just bought the In'ride 100 without checking if it fits my bicycle. My Triban 100 bicycle has solid axles and plain axle nuts.  Now  I want to know if it's possible to attach a quick release to a Triban 100 and steps to do it if possible.

Also is it possible to attach the rear wheel to the trainer without the quick release,  I have already tried with the rear wheel as it is now... And it doesn't sit on the trainer well.


texts: Why are puncture-resistant tires not used in professional races?

texts:
Having used with great satisfaction puncture-resistant tires for more than 8 years, and having seen how it can happen than in professional races tires can be punctured, I wonder why are puncture-resistant tires not used from team racing in Giro d'Italia or Tour de France.

I am sure it is not for economic reason, but I cannot figure why.


texts:
Would you recommend front suspension or back suspension to do wheelies?

I am looking for a new bike for my 13 year old.

Is the suspension bought separately from the bike?


texts: I am trying to fit Bluemels mudguards for the front wheel. I am a bit unhappy about tire to mudguard clearance, but I can't move the mudguard more away from the tire because the bracket is touching against the ring that is attached to the end of the tube where the fork comes out (feel free to replace this description with the appropriate name :D). Would it be safe to just put some sort of spacer on the bracket screw so that I can pull up the mudguard further? I can't unfortunately replace the bracket because it is preinstalled on the mudguard.


texts: Front Wheel axle (Quando) with 1/4 bearings

texts:
my first post after years of using the forum.
I am a mobile mechanic and keep coming up against these Quando front hubs (sometimes unbranded) that have a standard 9mm QR axle spindle, but with larger cones (these cones fit fine in a rear hub, just not the axle) and 1/4" bearings. I cannot find replacements anywhere, does anyone know what I could search for, or what is going on here? 99% of hub servicing I do apart from OEM shimano cones etc use the "standard" but this is a wierd hybrid and it's doing my head in!!
To reiterate, I have serviced hundreds of hubs over 10 years of working so I understand the general ideas of bearing sizes. I am really looking for any specific information on this phenomenon from someone who might have come accross it before.
Thanks in advance
Dan


texts: I bought used speed and RPM sensor by echowell. Here is a picture with this product and I highlitghted in red components that are missing. So as I unserstood this is magnet for sensors. Question: can I buy regular magnet for sensor in bike store or does this system require specific magnet made by echowell?


texts: Recommended settings for Specialized Brain with respect to durability

texts:
I am seeking the right combination of shock pressure vs. Brain threshold settings for new Stumpjumper Elite (with Specialized Brain inertia valve) with respect to durability.

Are there any recommended settings for the trail/all-mountain kind of riding for the brain?

I found this chart suggesting 3-open setting for the brain:
http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/AC0419_2013_air_chart_11x17.pdf

Sure it is affected by personal preference. My concern is to find if there is any significant influence of the settings to the Brain durability/service interval by next extremes:

low shock pressure + hard Brain threshold
vs. high shock pressure + soft Brain threshold

Does any of these extremes has significant influence on Brain durability/life-time? Or is it just a matter of personal preference?


texts: Will current (2021) Campagnolo brakes have sufficient clearance for 28c tyres and mudguards?

texts:
I believe that current Campagnolo brakes don't have a quick-release mechanism on the brakes themselves, which means that unless they are paired with Campagnolo levers, it could be awkward to remove a wheel with an inflated 28c.
But I think that otherwise the dual-pivot Campagnolo callipers will clear a mudguard and 28c tyre (assuming the right frame) - is that correct?


texts:
I bought a new bike a few days ago, Cannondale Bad Boy 3 2019 which gets delivered in a few days.

https://www.cannondale.com/en/Europe/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=7f48452b-f9eb-4e10-89e7-4a7550944bfa

Buying the spares I'm at a complete loss on finding the right inner tube size, popped into Evans Cycles today and the guy wasn't much help at all.

Anyone able to tell me and possibly link me to the correct inner tube's required?

Cheers!


texts:
I currently run a full suspension bike with rather thick tires. I have however been thinking of changing the rear tire to something a bit thinner as the current tire I run makes the wheel very close to the linkage and frame.

When there's even a bit of mud, the mud tends to stick to the wheel and the frame causing the rear wheel to completely jam. Is this a good idea or not recommended?


texts:
Let's say someone had a heavy, overly strong front wheel on their re-purposed mtb. 26" wheel, 36 spokes.

What would be a safe pattern to follow to remove between 6 and 12 spokes?


texts: What type of bike I should buy if I need to ride with a toddler

texts:
Which Bike (Mountain, Hyibrid, Cruiser or Road bike) I should buy if I want to carry my 3 year old daughter on a Child Carrier (fits in rear).

Here is one image of child Carrier I have. It attaches to the rear carrier and stays quite stable for normal usage.

As I want to use my bike for occasional office commute as well, cargo bikes doesnt fits my need.

Safety, Ease of use, utilitarian  value and reliability are primary factor for me.  Any advise is welcome. ( I am also fine with changin child seat if it is not safe)

Thanks in advance for you advise.


texts: I'm looking to buy the MT-40. The website states that it has a 10 speed compatible chain tool. Can this same tool work with my 11 speed chain (Shimano 105 (11 speed) group set so I think the chain is 11 speed). Is there any difference between 10 and 11 speed chain tools?


texts:
I have just finished my first fixed gear based on an old Raleigh Rapide frame. But the chain line is off and I hear a crackling/ticking noise when I pedal.

The wheels are replace with a gipiemme wheelset and I kept the old bottom bracket and crank/chainring combo. The chainline is off by a few milimeters.

I have created an image that shows the issue:

My first guess is to replace the spindle/axle. Are they sold seperatly from the cups? The current spindle is asymetric (longer on the driver side), but for a single speed bicycle I could probably buy a symetrical one right?

How can I find out which spindle I should get?

What other options do I have?


texts: Bicycle trailer for a standing passenger?

texts:
Have you seen a bicycle trailer for a standing passenger?
I came across the following image on Pinterest but cannot locate the source.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/453737731186785705/


texts:
I don't have one to examine. How exactly does a crankset removal work?

one such as this.


texts: My key jammed in my U-lock. How can I unlock/break it?

texts:
I've been biking for 2 months now with my U-lock still on my bike, it sort of gets in the way of pedaling sometimes and I'm kinda tired of it.

Does anyone know of any ways to get the remnants of the key out from the lock? Or is my only option to send this to the bike shop and have them saw it off?

I can provide pictures if necessary. I've been using a secondary chain in the meantime.


texts:
So, I'm 18, have been riding my bike for years, and I was wondering how far I should be able to ride.
Originally, I just used my road bike to ride from and to work, four miles each way.
In the last month or so, I've been riding after work, an average of 12 miles a day, at 14 or so miles an hour. Should I be riding further, faster? Or possibly going slowly for much further? How can I determine the best workout? My goal is eventually to be able to bike 80 miles or so, and I'll see where I go after that.

Here's an eBay link to the bike I'm on

54cm Aluminum Road Racing Bicycle - Black 21 Speed Shimano 22lbs


texts:
I recently bought a rear brake cable for my 60s era Schwinn:

I was expecting it to have a lever interface that looks like:

But they are clearly different:

I was browsing eBay for another cable and came across this:

Looking closer, the lever interface looks like it matches what I need:

Both packages say "Weinmann Tourist levers only, yet they are clearly different.
My question is, what type of brake cable was in the package I purchased? It doesn't look like it's meant for Tourist levers. When I return the cable I purchased to the seller on eBay, I'd like to let him know what type of cable he sent me.
Thank you!


texts:
I have mountain bike which is around 1.5 years old. When I bought it, I used it without any hassles and all was fine. But one day I overshifted the friction shifter and the shifter was bent. Now it won't shift to chain levels. I knew that friction was of no use and I didn't look into this matter. A year passed, and now I am wondering about that issue because one of my friend bought a new cycle and he shows me, and I get burned up.

The main issue is that when I brought the cycle I didn't knew so much about gears. And when I shift gears to the 6th gear, it won't shift at all. I have a 18 speed bike, and out of them I can only use 15 gears. When I shift to 1st gear, one gear remains to be shifted. This was the problem since I bought the bike. But now I am jealous of my friend. And, my friction shifter is out of order. It is bent and not properly adjusted. When I shift to 1st gear the chain falls down, and the shifter rubs with the chain. So I can only shift between 5-2 gears. Please help me, I am not so expert in gears.


texts: I've seen the term Dahonesque used to refer to some folding bikes, what does it mean? What is the connection between "Dahonesque" bikes and the Dahon company?


texts: Are thru axles enough protection for transporting a bike?

texts:
I am travelling with my road bike packed inside my car in the next days. While thinking about how I will fit it in my trunk, I remembered that a lot of people put some sort of spacer in their fork/frame dropouts to prevet any damage from forces that are compressing the fork/frame when no wheels are installed.

Although this is probably more important when traveling by plane, when the bike is packed up in a container and has to sustain the harsh handling that airport luggage undergoes, I was still curious about this.

So to the actual question: Do thru axles screwed into the fork/frame without the wheels offer the same protection as special spacers made for bike transportation or is it worth getting some special equipment for this?


texts:
I was wondering if it was time to change these Powertap P1s cleats. Do we have a rule of thumb for this?

Also, can anyone share his/her feedback to 0-degree cleats of the same model? Thanks!


texts:
I bike a lot and I'm looking to spend £400-800 on a full size bike. It must have full suspension, detachable front wheel, preferably room for a minipump and a large water bottle (without using the far bottom side of the frame). I see this is close to a discussion, but I think there are some obvious answers I'm overlooking. Bike or shop suggestions welcome.

Update: I commute (half off-road), use the canals, in-town and between-town roads, and a lot of off-roading. I would like to be able to manage my bike well, hopefully learn to do more than just replace tyres/tubes. It will occasionally be carried by car. I use bike lanes, pavements and the middle of the road fairly equally.

How complex are softer drivetrains and disc brakes? I'm not familiar with either of them.


texts: I often heard this from other bikers where they do recovery rides the day after a long ride (greater than 100kms). What is it for and is it really needed?


texts: Is Shimano RD-5800 rear derailleur compatible with a 7 speed cassette?


texts: Drivetrain replacement or upgrade - 2009 Cannondale Six 6

texts:
A couple different shops have suggested that it’s time to replace my drivetrain. Chain has stretched and gears are losing shape. The rear cassette is an SRAM PG-950 12-26 9 speed. Crank is Tiagra 30/39/50.

Question is whether I replace the drivetrain apples to apples or use this as an opportunity to upgrade? I’m not sure what I could upgrade without also having to change the tiagra shifters or derailleurs. But I want to keep investing in this hike.

I use it mostly for commuting with the occasional 20 or 30 mile weekend ride (I replaced the stock tires with 28mm Armadillos). I climb hills and often use the 30-26 combo and could use something even more helpful.


texts:
Left  on the picture new shimano 68x122 mm BSA BB. Right one was installed on my bike. It's written there: JIVE 3.0 128K 123. The spindle is 128 mm.
I've mesuared BB tube, it's 68mm. It has also a mount for chain guard. So, it adds 2 mm on the drive side.

Looking on the picture it seems to be the same chain line with both BB. But non drive side is much shorter with shimano. The latter has also shorter body. Could you explain that? Should I reorder 127 mm shimano BB?

UPD
It is not assymetrical BB. They have longer spindle on the drive side. In my case it seems to be longer on non-drive side.


texts: How to inflate a tire with a Presta valve?

texts:
My new bike has these thin tires with a type of valve I haven't usedbefore. I searched online and found out it's called a Presta valve, and it's pretty common and popular. I'm finding it annoying and fiddly and don't know how to use it properly. I have a floor pump, and I know the valves and pump are fine, because the guy in the shop had no trouble using the same one. But after reading online and watching YouTube videos I still can't figure out how to do it properly!

Here's what I'm trying:

Rotate wheel so that the pump can comfortably reach the valve (guides online say the valve should be at 12 o'clock position, but I can't do that because the hose on the pump isn't long enough)
Remove valve cap, unscrew thingy in valve, and tap it a little - a jet of air shoots out. OK.
Push pump onto valve. This is where I get into trouble...

I can't seem to get the attachment onto the valve in the right way. I'm pushing it on with the elbow lever thingy down, and then pulling the lever up as you can see in the pictures, to make the attachment grip onto the valve.

Now, either it flops around loose and leaks air out the sides (when I push it on gently), or sometimes it goes on but then the tire doesn't seem to inflate any, the pump just gets stiff really quickly as if the valve was blocked - then I remove the attachment and it goes pffffft like all the pressure was just backed up in the hose and not actually going into the tire.

I was able to pump up the tire eventually, but it took me about an hour of stuffing around and my "project manager" got angry, because I was supposed to be in the kitchen making her a salad, not mucking around in the garage.

The time I got it on properly I had to deflate the tire completely, and even then it was difficult because with the tire completely deflated the stem of the valve just pushed into the rim. Surely this is not normal? What's the trick of attaching the darned thing?

Also, how can I just check the pressure? When I attach the thing I expect the guage to jump up and show me what pressure it's at, but it just stays at 0.  The tires say on the side to inflate to 110 psi (7.5 atm), but my pump only goes up to 100.


texts: Replacing 'cone nuts' on a damaged coaster brake

texts:
I'm attempting to refurbish a bike that I was given, it has a (not sure what brand) coaster brake, which according to sheldon brown's site has a peculiar kind of cone nut. The wheel might be 10 years old, it's hard to say.

I've been able to remove the otherwise butchered nuts (see below) using a tap & hammer and an axle vice, now that they are free I'd like to know what they are, so that I can replace them, do they have a special name?

I've only ever seen mention of cone nuts resembling a regular washer, but with two flat sides (sorry for the poor explanation) - these that this bike is fitted with are something different, see below:

Apologies for my dodgy graphics work, the middle is threaded, and sized to fix the (slightly larger than the wheel nut thread) centre of the coaster brake axel, the outsides smooth (very much resembling a washer) except for the two grooves.

The entre part is perhaps 20mm in diameter; unfortunately my bright idea of drawing the part, and then using Google image search has failed me!

In the end, I'm sure this particular bolt is a strange european relic designed as some kind of "security" bolt; not dissimilar to the Apple style 5-point start, or similar, to discourage people against fiddling with their coaster brake. But I would really like to rebuild the brake!

I'm sure I could replace them with regular "cone nuts" - that is the ones with two flat sides, but the term "cone nut" seems to refer more to the purpose than the design of the nut itself.

All information appreciated, thanks in advance!


texts: Bicycle Headlights for Commuting. Can't Decide

texts:
I'm in the market for my first bicycle headlights, mainly for commuting 10 miles to/from work. The days are getting shorter and I foresee my entire commute will be in the dark in the coming months.

Did some research and I've shortlisted 2 models.

Ligt & Motion Urban 900
Knog Blinder 640

Anyone here have first hand experience on either of these 2, or any other models which you highly recommend?

Best Bike Headlights for Commuting

Best Bike Lights for 2017


texts:
I am planning out a Di2 setup with the Ultegra 6870 series, but I don't need to run a front derailleur. I am making a 1x11 setup. Is it possible to connect the shift level (I am using the ST-R785 levers) directly to Junction B, so I don't need a Junction A at all?

I know for internal batteries, a Junction A is required for charging, but with an external battery, it shouldn't be necessary. Does Junction A do anything else essential? It'd be awesome if someone with a Di2 setup (especially an Ultegra 6870) could test this too.


texts: I removed the fork from my old racer because I was hit by a car. When I'm trying to put the new fork on the frame, I get a gap where the top bearing is situated. What should I do? Could I just remove the bearing and put everything in place, or is that just too stupid?


texts: How to route cables aroung the head tube?

texts:
Consider this illustrative picture:

The cables are routed "across" the heatube. Id est the cable leaves the shifter, crosses the headtube and then curves back under the top or bootom tube.
I often see bikes set up like that, but not always. Sometimes, the cable leaves the shifter, makes a large curve in front and then returns under the top or bottom tube, without crossing the headtube.
Is there a right or wrong way? I have observed loss of paint and even frame damage from cables, rubbing against the head tube (on a Specialized hardrock).


texts:
When hitting bumps, wheels sometimes develop flat spots. Can this be reduced by building wheels with higher spoke tension, or is this mainly result of strength of a rim?

When I say flat spot, I mean wheel radially going out of true, not small nicks on the edge of the rim.


texts:
I have sanded, applied primer and then spraypainted my bicycle. Then I sprayed clear coat on it. This last step ruined my bike. The clear coat was dripping all over the bicycle frame.

How can I smooth this out? Could I use sandpaper with 1200 grit size and then reapply the clear coat on the sanded areas?

I rather not sand down the entire bike and start all over again starting with primer.


texts: Axle flex under load normal for freewheel hub?

texts:
When using a freewheel'd hub is it normal for the drive side of the axle to flex a little bit?

I replaced the kickstand on my bike and the new one sits closer to the rear tire with about 2 mm clearance.  However, since I did this I picked up a squeak/rub, but only when I'm applying power.  I back off the power or coast and the squeak goes away.  Upon closer inspection I have found that the tire is rubbing in spots, but with very little force.

This is the same setup in another question of mine where I was having axle troubles (Reoccurring Bent Axles, any reasons or upgrades?).  I have replaced said axle with a stronger one (so the LBS told me) close to the same time, and so far, no other major issues.  The wheel is true, but tire does have a spot or 2 where it is out of line.  I have checked for play in the bearings, but none is there.

Given that it only rubs though when applying power and it doesn't at all when on the stand then I'm lead to believe that the driving forces is causing the drive side of the wheel to move forward and causing my issue.  Am I right here and is it normal?  If it is normal, is such a flex going to be a bent axle later?


texts: I am 40 Years Old. I got diabetes at the age of 21. In that case how long can I cycling per day. Am I Compatible for long ride. Which type of bike and roads are compatible for me.


texts: Long term benefits and risks of bicycling

texts:
For half a year now I commute to work by bike everyday. It's 30 km each day, about 18.5 miles. I have a good bike, it's comfortable as well as it has good components so I'm having fun riding it. However I found myself wondering about long term effects of riding a bike so often (in average I cover 150 km a week on it).

Considering positive effects I realized my fitness improved a lot, which is quite obvious why. I also feel better about having this regular workout besides my job in an office. So there are both mental and physical benefits. So now I'm just curious: What physical and mental benefits have you noticed from bicycling/commuting by bike often?

I also wonder about risks I could come to face though. Are there long term risks for my health? What other issues might become important after more months/years of bicycling? And of course what can I do to prevent them from getting bad or happening at all? I'd like to avoid typical mishaps and learn from you guys' experience.


texts: I need help Identifying this Dirt Jumper Frame

texts: I just picked up this bicycle but the previous owner didnt know what brand it was. It is custom painted and all the components seem to be high-end with no stock components. Note the unique cutout behind the crank and near the rear dropout.


texts:
It is now stuck very hard because I used apparently too much force to tighten it, how would you take that out? The bolt is in soft aluminium frame so it can be quite tricky thing to do. Some bolt removal tool?

Related question here with the chain-tug -suggestion.


texts:
I'm trying to replace a Suntour XCT fork on a '14 Cannondale Trail 4.

I think it's a got a 1 1/8" straight headtube looking at the specs here: https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Cannondale/Trail-29-4,13741

On Ebay all the forks seems to be tapered. I.e Rockshox Reba or Judy.

Looking on CannondaleAnswers here - https://www.cannondaleanswers.com/definitive-guide-cannondale-frame-headset-fork-compatibility-for-mountain-bikes/, it shows that a conversion is possible for some headsets with a KP205.

The issue is I don't know what I have! the headset has 'Tange Seiki' on it. Does that mean its SI integrated?

Anyway advice is greatly appreciated! we are both new to mountain biking so have very limited knowledge!

Thanks.


texts: How to tell if my handlebar is really too long?

texts:
As some of you already know, I'm putting together a trekking bike. It is mostly to commute where the usual route will be 15km: up to 10km on paved roads and the rest unpaved, including a highway construction site and woods. I also want to be able to take it bikepacking to Bieszczady, the Polish low mountains.
I actually put it together yesterday, and it works pretty great. The frame might've been a bit smaller, but it is quite comfortable.
My friend, who assembled like a hundred bikes so far, says my handlebar is a bit too long for me. He has seen me ride it and still thinks so. I don't  have any comparison, but for me it is really comfortable as it is, without shortening it. But cutting is irreversible, so I am reluctant.
How to tell if I really really need a shorter handlebar?

I'm 194cm tall and 115kg. My shoulders are about 55cm wide, and my handlebar with grips is 65cm wide.


texts: How to store a bicycle for an extended period of time?

texts: What's the best way to store a bicycle for an extended period of time, say 2 months?


texts: adding bottomless tokens for rockshox Rock Shox 30 Gold Solo Air 100mm

texts:
Is it possible for me to purchase bottomless tokens for my fork without having to upgrade my fork?

I find I keep bottoming out my fork unless I put alot of air in it. At which point it's alittle harsh going down minior rocky decents.

If I do have to upgrade my fork, my problem is it will be expensive since I need to swap out  both my wheelset because they're qr 9mm and higher end shox tend to use maxles.


texts: What is this bike model and year? Cannondale CAAD?

texts:
I have an opportunity to buy this bike for $200 and was wondering what model and year the bike is? From one of the pictures I see CAAD and on another, I see seven, but I'm coming up empty handed when googling. The owner says he bought it last year.

Thanks!
Mike


texts: I am considering getting a cruising bike to swap out riding with my existing, shorter mountain bike. I saw one I liked, for several reasons, in the store that is a 29" size. I am tall and could handle the tall bike, but the question is - is there a practical advantage with a taller bike? I live on FLAT terrain, in town. Thanks.


texts: Is klunking the father of mountain biking?

texts: Is attacking downhills with coaster brakes where the sport of downhill mountain biking originated? Or did mountain biking and klunking grow up side by side?


texts: Removing rear hub end caps (Mavic Allroad Pro)

texts: I've just bought a Mavic Allroad Pro wheelset and I want to convert the rear hub from 12x142 to 10x135 configuration. I bought the 10x135 adapters (highlighted in red in the attached image, it's a section of Mavic manual) and I need to remove the original endcaps. I tried pulling them by hand but they don't move at all and I'm afraid of damaging something by using too much force. What is the correct procedure to remove the endcaps? Anyone knows? Couldn't find anything on Mavic site about this.


texts:
I have TX36 E bike. Had no idea when purchased that the overall length is 6 feet (183 cm)  which is probably 6 inches (15 cm) longer than most bicycles. It does not fit into both front and rear tire slots. I have been using a heavy duty strap to secure front wheel.

It has no been brought to my attention I will no longer be able to put my bike on a rack. My problem is I am a disabled veteran and have no other way to get around. Looking for suggestions. I thought about a smaller wheel I could swap out for transit purposes only but axle widths are not the same. I thought about lengthening my control and brake cables that would let me spin handlebars and wheel 180 degrees. anyone have any ideas?


texts: How to attach and mount wheels onto a cargo trailer?

texts: I am planning a bike to move heavy things, separate question here, and sixtyfootersdude is doing a cargo trailer that converges to some extent with my goal to move cargo here. I am not sure whether mounting a trailer wheel is the same as mounting a normal tire but bear with it I am trying to organize sixtyfootersdude's question at the same time as solving my own problem, just answer the question in the title thank you.


texts: Which parameters should I track with bicycle computer so I can analyze changes in my riding?

texts:
I'm building Arduino-based bicycle computer with GPS at my free time as a hobby project.
So I have to find out which parameters of ride will be useful to track to see a progress (or any changes) in riding. Later I will surely write software to analyze recorded track.

What will be recorded anyway:

Trackpoints (latitude, longitude, elevation + time),
Cadence,
Current front gear number,
Current rear gear number.

Which parameters should be also tracked to get the best result in ride analysis?
Or maybe there is some articles about bicyclists training on the web, that I can read to get more information that could be usefull?


texts: I have a Miele Compatto folding bike and the tire and rim size are currently 20" x 1.50. I find that the tubes don't last very long (at most 15 km) I get a lot of flats. Should I increase the tire width to a 1.75 width or possibly buy better more expensive tubes/tires?


texts: Should I change both tires when I need to change one?

texts: I know that it's a best practice in a car to change all 4 tires if you change 1, although in practice, it's only done if 3 need to be changed. Does the same thing hold true of a bike?


texts:
My V-brake isn't working and I am not sure how I can fix it. I have uploaded a photo of it. Any advice or tips?!

I think the flange might have come off the noodle and got stuck in the boot - any tips on getting it out??

Thank you.


texts: How to maintain a Shimano Nexus gear hub?

texts:
I have a bicycle with Shimano hub gears (Nexus 7 speed). I would like to know what type of maintenance it needs, besides the normal tuning.
I believe it needs some greasing, but I have no idea how to do it. This type of transmission is not common at all where I live. The local bicycle shops can't help.


texts: Has anyone ever tried to estimate peter sagans ftp and 5 sprint power, if so what would they look like?

texts:
Does Peter Sagan's FTP and 5 second power differ hugely from someone like Mark Cavendish or is Mark Cavendish close in his FTP power range but not world class like Sagan?

As Mark Cavendish is 70kg and Peter Sagan is a reported 74kg? What prompts this question is the performances of Peter Sagan during stages 6 and 7 of the tour of California where he managed a very high placing. Despite being labelled as a sprinter and classics rider in a Shaun Kelly mould.


texts:
Is there any lamp holder for the bicycle stem?
The normal 360º degrees spinning lamp holders do not work, because the stem is slightly top-wards inclined.

Bike stem

Normal lamp holder


texts: Which rotor, Steel or Titanium comes with Avid CODE brakes?

texts:
I just bought Avid CODE brakes. It comes with a rotor (200mm). I checked the website and manual and I can't find out if the rotor is stainless steel or the titanium version.

How can I tell?

Information printed on the rotor.

200mm HS1
BOLT TORQUE 55in-lbs 6.2N-m
A01 SEP 11


texts: What size mounting bolt does a Shimano SL-M7000-11 take (pic included)

texts: I've searched far and wide and can't seem to find a parts list for this shifter. I've lost the bolt and need to purchase another. It is the right-hand (rear) shifter, for an 11-speed Shimano XT group.


texts:
(this isn't a discussion on the attractiveness of large cyclists and likelihood of sexual congress...)

In my cycling career I have varied between 22 stone and 15 stone. At 6'2" the leanest I have ever been is still over 20% body fat.

I am not sure I've ever bonked...

My normal cycling day is an 18 mile ride into work before I have eaten or drunk anything. I have a yogurt granola thing for breakfast and salad for lunch. Some fig rolls mid afternoon then cycle 18 miles home.

I have done 80 mile training rides and really not eaten anything much.

I do sometimes feel tired and a bit weak but I thought that bonking was worse than that.

I assume that as I carry quite large energy reserves around with me that I don't bonk.


texts: Do crank arm pullers vary in sizes or there is just one size?

texts: Just want to confirm if there are different types of crank arm pullers? I'm trying to order one and the contact person is telling me that he has one but for a road bike. Now I'm confused I thought there is only 1 size of crank arm puller, so are there different sized of crank arm pullers?


texts: Mounting a 7-Speed Cassette on an 8/9 speed hub

texts:
I asked an earlier question regarding putting modern road wheels on my old steel frame.

After clarifying a few things the main issue to me is the number of gears on the freehub. (The freehub I'm considering takes an 8/9 speed and has a Shimano fitting). My bicycle is currently a 7-speed and uses a freewheel rather than a freehub.

So I think I have 2 options:

Put an 8-speed cassette on the new wheel and increase the number of gears on my bike. Issues: I assume an 8-speed uses a narrower chain; will my front chainring work with it?
Put on this 7-speed cassette which says it can work on an 8/9-speed hub with a set of spacer rings. Questions: how do I use the spacer rings? Do I need only one of each for the whole cassette of one for each sprocket? Will this allow the slightly wider chain I currently use on the 7-speed.

Which option would be the better choice?

A few points to consider:

Shifters are friction, so no need to consider indexing but I am unsure whether they have the range for an 8-speed (but with a narrower chain maybe the range is the same, just with smaller movements between gears)
My deraileur is actually a modern Shimano 8/9 speed already (as the old one broke). I have adjusted it to suit my 7-speed with the limiter screws.


texts: I need help with this logo, I cannot find any clear answers... The frame is aluminum, the rear dropouts have this logo stamped and the bottom bracket does have two sets of serial numbers.


texts: Why do I have to keep on changing my fit?

texts:
I realize there may not be a true "answer" to this, and some of what I have to say makes no sense, but since I'm not exactly the brightest tool in the refrigerator, it may just be that there is something obvious that I'm overlooking.  I have this O/C thing about constantly adjusting my bike fit (which seems to get worse as the years go by).

No matter how I adjust it, it always feels like something is not right.
There were over a 1,000 changes since 2008, in the last 5 years averaging over 120 changes per year. I've had 6 bike fittings — every one left me LESS comfortable, and slower — with such a variety in positioning, that you'd swear they were for 6 different cyclists!  For example, one had a saddle-to-bar reach of 52 cm, another 59 cm!  So, I know I won't find an answer there.

The main issue seems to be that I need to keep changing my position in order to stay in the same (relative) position.
Here's what I mean:  With all my "fit fooling," I've determined the most efficient (and comfortable) saddle position is pretty much "heel-on-pedal" for height, and "knee-over-pedal-spindle" for setback, give or take a few mm.  (I actually use the "hands-off"/"balance" test to set that, but that also puts me KOPS, so I just call it that.) The thing is, some days I can pass the hands-off test with the saddle tip 8.5cm behind BB, other days I can't pass it unless the saddle tip is 10cm back.

Likewise, some days a saddle height of 79 cm (BB — center of saddle) is HOP, other days it 80cm.  (And, yes, I'm using the same bike, pedals, saddle, etc.)  Usually, soon after I start a ride, I'm like, "WHAT THE &@%*!?!?!?!", because the position feels so screwed up, it's like I'm on someone else's bike!  (Even though the day before, the fit felt perfect.)

So, I spend most of the ride adjusting things, then — usually a mile or two before the end — I finally get it just right.  Then, next ride, once again it's "WHAT THE @^#*?!?!?!?!" So, the whole process starts again. (Like a cross between "Breaking Away" and "Groundhog Day.")  I also fool with the bar position some, but not nearly as much as the saddle. The only theory I came up with — that my job had something to do with it — didn't pan out. (I'm a mailman who walks 8+ miles a day up and down God-only-knows how many hills and steps).

I was thinking I might need a different position when doing a ride after work than when riding on my day off.  Experimented for a while with that, but didn't discover any pattern.

I suppose fitness/fatigue levels may have some affect, but could that result in "to my problem", but wouldn't such big difference in height and fore/aft on a daily basis indicate something PHYSICAL is going on?

If I didn't know better, I'd think my legs randomly grow and shrink at will, or something! Is it possible that I just need a different position on different days?  Could it be due to my torso being 10-11cm shorter than normal compared to my legs? Any suggestions appreciated, but, again, I understand if it does not have a clear answer.


texts: Do I need a special rack for my Schwinn Ascension hybrid bike with disk brakes?

texts: Do I need a special rear rack for my Schwinn Ascension Hybrid bike that has disc brakes? Or will the regular Schwinn bike rack work


texts: Kind of a pennyfarthing with the big wheel in back

texts: Can someone give me information about the bicycle in the photo?


texts: What is the purpose of a braze-on on the underside of seat stay?

texts:
I have a Jamis Citizen 2 Step through (2013 or 14 maybe) which has a braze-on on the underside of the seat stay near the brake studs.  Just one braze on each side.  I'm curious as to what the intent is and what opportunities they enable.  I already mounted rack and fenders so I'm not talking about the brazes near the seat tube.  In the photo behind the link look closely and see the braze-on just on the inside of the back wheel.

Here is the bike:

http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/bike.html?year=2014&model=Citizen%202%20Femme&cat_grp=fem_11

Photo:

http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/images/fancy/14_citizen2step-thru_bl.jpg

Zoomed in photo highlighting the specific braze-on:


texts: Mount additional water bottle on bike frame with only one water bottle mount

texts:
I only have one set of water bottle mount screws on my bike.  I would like to have an additional water bottle.  Ideally I would like to mount the bottle on the frame (preferably on the vertical tube).

Bonus: Can I order/build in Canada?


texts: Shifting Lever Unit replacement/interchangeability on Shimano 8 speed XT/XTR shifters

texts:
Are the levers/internals interchangeable? Meaning will they all fit the same housing or can I swap one for the other if needed?  Will any 8s XT/XTR shimano 8 speed shifter lever fit any other 8s XT/XTR housing?
Looking at the repair manuals, the part numbers are very similar, and the bolt patterns and housings look very similar.
XTR
([Sl-M950][4], SL-M951) [6BT 9801]
XT
(SL-M739, SL-M740) [6BA 9801]
(Everything that comes after that seems to be a sealed entity, or made differently)
pdf
[4]:
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/SL-M950/EV-SL-M950-1629.pdf


texts:
I have been looking online for tutorials on replacing a chainring (or three) for my Scott mountain bike: https://www.thebikelist.co.uk/scott/aspect-40-2012

When trying to take off the chainset so that I can remove a chainring to replace it, the crank bolt holding the chainset on looks different to most of the tutorials I've been watching online. I am wondering what tools and what procedure I would require to remove this so that I can replace my chainset.

The bolt is a hex bolt which has 'CH 12.9' printed on it.

Here are some photos:


texts:
I was told by a friend that 26" wheels are better than 28" wheels for touring. Is this true? What are the pro's and con's?

I'm told that 26" wheels are stronger for their spoke count. What are the practical implications of this?
Are there other reliability concerns? and how much of a concern/win are they?
Does one size have an advantage in terms of ease of carrying a heavy load?
Does one have an advantage in terms of the sorts of terrain it can traverse?

Some context: We're going on a 800km trip in southern Germany and I'm looking to acquire a decent bike for this trip, and hopefully many other such trips (potentially more adventurous ones too). I basically just want to pick up a good base bike that I slowly build on and figure that I should invest in a frame that supports the right size of tires from the start.


texts: What is the widest range 9 speed cassette?

texts:
My commuter rig is an old trek mountain bike that I've converted to fixed gear with an ENO hub/crankset.  I am thinking about going geared for the winter.  I have a rear wheel that I built last year and never used (found the eccentric wheel on craigslist around the same time), an SLX rear derailleur and an LX shifter.  Looking for a wide range cassette so I can take the bike offroad a bit more often, but I'm hoping to keep my 42t chainring on.  I'm willing to take the risk that the ENO ring can work with a 9 speed chain.

The best I've found is a shimano CS-HG61 (12-36) which I think would be more than enough, but if there's anything bigger available I'd like to know.  Not interested in mods/adapters.


texts:
I was trying to paint my bare chromoly steel bicycle frame and fork. I sanded the frame and fork with 120 grit sandpaper to give it a slightly rough surface for the paint to adhere to. I used a quick-drying acrylic rattle can spray paint to apply primer to it.

I waited for more than 24 hours to apply the top coat (same brand and paint type). I stuck masking tape to check if the primer would come off, it didn't. I applied a little too much of the top coat so there were runs on some parts of the frame. I tried wiping the runs with a rag thinking that only the top coat would be wiped off. Unfortunately, when I wiped it off, the primer went with the top coat.

Is that supposed to happen when I wipe off a fresh top coat? I'm not sure if the metal was still too smooth for painting but it is scuffed. Also, for runs, if I can't wipe it off, do I just wait for it to dry and sand to smooth out the surface and then reapply another layer of top coat?

By the way, these are the instructions on the can:

It doesn't say how long the paint dries


texts: Buying a bike: Older, used high-quality components or new average-quality components?

texts:
I realize that fit and personal comfort, etc. are most important, but, I need some advice.
I just got into duathlons and triathlons this year, and started with a very low end bike. I'm now looking to upgrade, but not trying to go crazy.

My question is regarding good versus average components. Are older great components better than new average components?
For an average rider, with some racing goals, etc, does new outweigh better, or does quality always outweigh age?

None of the items are bad, just older or better.

I'm specifically comparing a used 2007 bike with a Shimano 105 groupset and a 2016 bike with a Tiagra groupset.


texts: When I stop pedaling my bike the rear gears keep turning, is this an easy fix? Bike is a vintage Raleigh Grand Prix

texts: Raleigh Grand Prix chain and rear hub keep turning when coasting


texts: How often should I change brake cables and housing?

texts:
Seems like every year towards the end of cyclocross racing my brake cables start to get 'sticky'. The STI shifter is fine for changing gears, but when pulling on brakes it feels like I'm breaking loose something stuck before the pads actually touch the rims. I think water/mud/grime is somehow working into the housing and adding friction.

I have replaced the cables and housing about this time every year. Is this too often? Should I be doing some better (more) maintenance? - I rinse and wipe bike clean after every race and practice, but not really anything special for brake cable/housing.

side question: Should I change shifting cables and handlebar tape at the same time (since I'll have the wrap half way off)?


texts:
I just went for a 50 mile ride on my hybrid (1/3 on an unpaved trail, 2/3 on a paved trail), and I am curious regarding the outfit I'm wearing.

Is it frowned upon to wear a skin tight (road bike style) cycling clothing while riding a hybrid? Would I benefit from a more baggy outfit? What's the "traditional" hybrid outfit?


texts: New Shimano 105 hydraulic brake loses pressure

texts:
I have a brand new bike with about only 25 miles on it. On a ride today the rear brake (Shimano 105 hydraulic) became spongy, letting me max out the lever but giving on about 25% of braking power. I don’t see any sign of fluid leakage.

Any theories on what could be wrong? Could it be something with the mechanism? With the initial installation? It seems too early to be in need of a bleed.

Thanks for your advice.

UPDATE: Brought into bike store. They initially planned to do a bleed, but then determined that the brake lever assembly itself had failed and needs to be replaced.


texts:
I am planning to buy a folding bicycle (brand doesn't matter). Intent is commuting to work inside the city (5-6 kms one side run). Reason for folding bicycle is space constraint in my apartment. I never rode a folding bicycle before I am curious to know how different it is from normal bikes riding wise and any additional maintenance is involved and durability compared to normal bikes

Please advise.


texts: At 3:30ish in this video, they set light to a front derailleur. Why? Degreasing it? Waxy lube that needs melting in? I can't think of a good reason. Any ideas?


texts: Is the front center pull brake supposed to be free floating?

texts:
I have an old Motobecane (see this picture from another person's question)

The brake assembly which is attached to the front forks doesn't move.

As I recall, on other bikes that I have had like this, the front brake caliper unit rotates on the bolt that attaches it to the forks. When the brake pads clamp on the rim, the brake assembly centers itself each time you brake.

On the Motobecane, it's fixed in place...Is it supposed to be "floating" or rigid?


texts: How close do riders follow their wheel/attack

texts: How close do peloton riders typically and strategically follow each other's wheel/attack? Also, how is this distance manipulated in order to allow for strategic movements or a more aerodynamic ride.


texts:
Other than a 12g saving in weight and the Dura Ace label, are there any further potential reasons to prefer Shimano PD-9000 pedals over PD-6800?

Edit: This question is specifically about pedals rather than general Dura Ace vs Ultegra comparison.


texts: I unscrewed the lockring, and *both* BB cups rotated - what's going on?

texts:
I'm fixing up an old tandem, and the cup-and-cone bottom bracket at the front sounds very gritty, so I picked up my c-spanner and applied it to the lockring.  With a bit of effort, left cup and lockring both rotated together.  Not hugely surprising that they're stuck together - both bits are quite old and grimy.  But then I noticed that the right cup was rotating as well - as if it were rigidly attached to the left.  The entire set (two cups and lockring) won't easily rotate more that about 20 degrees,and I didn't want to push any harder.  How can this happen - aren't cups meant to be separate?  Will I damage it if I keep rotating it?  How should I unscrew it?

Some more details:
The tandem is a 1940s Claud Butler - spec here: http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_40/CB15.jpg. The bracket is inside an eccentric casing.  I can't shift this at all, so I don't know how it's all connected inside.  BB make is Bayliss-Wiley.

Photos are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/88429902@N04/


texts: How does one wipe clean and oil the chain? (maintenance details)

texts:
This may sound like a dumb question -- I know how to oil a bike chain, but apparently not how to do it correctly.
I have a relatively new gravel bike, a Giant Revolt, which I ride (on tarmac) about 25 km a day and whose chain I've been oiling regularly, about every 2-3 days, just as I'd done with my previous bike, a mountain bike.  I took my gravel bike in for maintenance and they said I was overdoing the oil, that in fact it was better too dry than too wet.  What they said I should do is -- after every ride -- clean the chain with a towel and then oil it "lightly".  What's "lightly"?  "One drop" they said.  For the entire chain?  I doubt it -- but I'm not sure what they meant exactly.  (I should have asked when I was there, but now, given Covid, it's very hard to get in touch with them again -- we have to make scheduled appointments to see them).
I'm looking for 'easy daily' maintenance -- not 'thorough' chain cleaning, as I've read about in other posts.  Just enough to keep things clean and well-oiled, that is, getting the chain clean with a towel and then lubricating it again.  I guess the crucial question is "how much oil?"
Again, in some ways this is a very simple question, but the devil lies in the details, and that's what I'm not clear about.


texts:
I'm quite new to bikes.
I have a Schrader valve bike with deflated wheels. When I try to pump it up. I take off the protective cap, then there is a valve secured down by a nut (there is another nut securing it to the actual wheel) I then put the pump onto the bit of valve poking up and lock it in. I can then pump it completely with about 5 pushes of the pump. Once it is complete I unlock the bike pump off of the valve, at that moment all the air rushes out immediately (10 seconds) even if I put the protective cap on. What does this mean??


texts: Is there such a thing as a 25mm crank puller?

texts:
I have a BMX with a Primo Pro crank on it that I need to remove.

The thread in the crank arms that the crank puller would normally screw into has 25mm diameter but I only seem to be able to find 22mm crank pullers.

Do crank pullers come in different sizes or is there some sort of adapted that I can use with a standard crank puller?


texts:
hey i am new here and i was just wondering if anyone can help me out with the problem of my chain keeps slipping when i pedal a little bit hard. I took my bike to lbs and they said that my chain was fine and the sprockets were near new if any one can help me out that would be much appreciated.front sprocket

[


texts: Trek FX 7.7 rear tire is rubbing the frame

texts:
I have a Trek FX 7.7 and the rear tire is rubbing the frame with 100psi in the tire.  Stops rubbing at 96psi.  I have 26mm Continental Grand Prix 4 Season tires.  The original tires were Bonetrager 24mm(I think).  I would not think 2mm would make a difference???  Any suggestions, am I missing something simple and stupid??

Update to the information I posted, new tires are 28mm (went to my receipt, sidewall hard to read), previous tires 25mm.  The rub is on the face of the tire, the picture shows with 96psi and not rubbing.  One of the comments I received said that specs for my bike said that 25mm tires would fit, I went to Trek website before I posted this question, and could not find that information.  I did not realize that going up in width would effect the diameter as well.  Sounds like I need to get some new tires.

For some of the other responses I got, 1. Yes the wheel is very slightly out of true, 2. No bulges or anything in the tire, and 3. I carefully checked to make sure the wheel was mounted correctly and straight.

To everybody that responded - THANK YOU!!!

Uploading a picture


texts: UK supplier of short toe clips for small footed woman

texts:
My wife has size 4 feet and we are struggling to find a comfortable set of toeclips for her.

At the moment, even the Zefal 043 "medium" clips are too long, leaving her with her feet almost centred on the pedal.

We are looking for a set of strapped, two-pronged toe clips, ideally nylon, but which have a shorter than normal plate. Does anyone know of a such a product and where it can be obtained in the UK?

(Clipless pedals are not under consideration....)

Thanks in advance.


texts:
I used my old Trek mountain bike last winter (Helsinki, down to -25C, lots of snow) for commuting to work (8km each way, roads) but it probably needs too many repairs to be worthwhile.

I got a new sports hybrid thingy (Crescent Zetta) in the summer, and it might be ok for winter use with some studded tyres. It has disc brakes and 32-622 tyres. I don't know the size of the rims.

I have 26" Nokian Hakkapeliitta W106 studded tyres for the mountain bike, which were very good last winter. These obviously won't fit on the Crescent's bigger 28" wheels, but the W106 also comes in 37-622 (700x35c).

Would 37-622 tyres fit in place of 32-622 tyres or is it too big a difference?


texts: Does this trike have a spoiler for downforce?

texts:
I saw a 1977 Masa Slingshot leaflet on ebay (source), copied below.
It has a lot of differences from a modern tadpole, in particular what looks like a "spoiler" on the front.
Is this similar to a spoiler on a sports car that is intended to provide more downforce to the wheels at high speed? Would that be effective / beneficial on a trike?  I have read that this design was intended for oval track racing, so I assume the riders would get up to a good speed, so maybe that makes sense.  I also read that with its long wheelbase a lot more weight went onto the rear wheel than on today's trikes, which also support the idea. And the brake seems to be on the rear wheel as well which seems consistent with that impression of weight distribution.
On the other hand, is this device just intended for something else? It actually isn't very wide or large in comparison to the frame, you'd think for relatively low-speed spoiler more surface area would have helped and looks like it should have fit. Would extra downforce even be needed? Plus, a larger "spoiler" might have acted somewhat like a fairing to reduce drag. (Is that actually all it really is, just an early or inexpensive / lightweight fairing design?)
Looking around I can find other images of these Masa trikes but very few which have that attachment. The few examples I did find lacked any explanation, though a forum post did use the same term "spoiler". No examples of modern racing recumbents or trikes that I could find had anything like this.


texts:
I'm not sure if oscillation is the right way to describe this, but when I'm riding at speed (say around 35-40 km/h) and take one hand off of the bars, the bars shimmy or oscillate – kind of like they are resonating with something. It's not bad, but it's new – I'm pretty sure the bike didn't used to do this…

Does anybody know what would cause this? Or better yet, what can be done to eliminate it?

In case it matters the bike is a Trek 620. The front wheel is a pretty plain vanilla rim with Schwalbe Marathon tire (32-622) and a Sanyo dynamo hub.


texts: Can I use 26 1 3/8 tire to replace a 27 1 1/4?

texts:
As in title, can I use  26 1 3/8 tire to replace a 27 1 1/4?

Is this workable with some elbow grease?  Any negative consequences of trying?  It is an older road bike with the original tires (27 1 1/4).  I went to a local store and closest match was 26 1 3/8.


texts: How much cycling distance is needed to travel every day for good muscular exercise?

texts:
As a bicycler I used to travel on cycle daily for about half an hour to maintain fitness of my legs and body.
But I want to know how much time and distance is needed for a good exercise.


texts:
While shopping for new tires on my bike, I saw that some dealers had a specific section for e-bike tires, where the various brands production for e-bikes was present.

Why do e-bikes need dedicated tires?


texts: how do i put my bottom bracket back together

texts:
I was bloody relived I could get the bb apart that I just rushed ahead and fogot to take note of how it came apart.DOH!!

I now have the following dilemas

1)What size bearings were they again(dont ask where those bearings went)

2)which side does the longer side of the axle go in

3)which is the fixed cup and which is the adjustable cup

Am guessing the one with more threads is the adjustable cup and goes on the non drive side.


texts: Gary Fisher Kaitai suffers from handlebar wobble at moderate speed with 10lbs on rear rack

texts:
I have a Gary Fisher Kaitai, their low-end hybrid.    I use the bike for commuting so I have a rear rack and typically carry between 5 and 12 lbs back there.  When I get up to moderate speed (10-15mph) and let go of the bars they begin to wobble badly.  This happens to a lesser degree when there is no load on the rear rack, as well. The wheels are true and balanced, and I am riding Bontrager 700X32 road tires.

Is it possible to correct this?


texts: Bicycle slipping gears on middle sprocket gears 4-7

texts: I see lots of questions on gears slipping but not sure it's the same as what I have.  Out of 21 gears I only have problems with 4 (middle sprocket (2) on left shifter gears (4-7) on right shifter). Since it's only 4 gears I didn't feel comfortable adjusting anything since it may impact what's working now. I'm not sure what to look for but the sprocket, gear and chain wear look okay. I just bought the bike a couple weeks ago (used) and it shifted good through all gears. Bike is 2011 GT Aggressor that looks like new so it's not one of the 'mart' bikes.  Any ideas?  Thanks in advance.


texts: Flying Pigeon brake pads - change or not

texts:
I bought a Flying Pigeon 2 weeks back and am having a lot of fun here in Singapore.
The bike was kept in a pretty good condition by the seller although he used it exclusively for photo ops.
This meant that a few practical issues needed to be addressed:

Braking : Braking is a bit of a problem , especially if there is a downward slope. how can I fix this? Is it possible to buy a set of brake pads to replace the current ones
Front Lamp : The bike uses a dynamo rated 12V 6W to power the lamp. The brightness is enough to warn opposing pedastrians, but won't catch attention of those walking ahead of me in same direction.

The wheels are 28" I believe.
Please help.
EDIT
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm trying to learn more about this system now so that I can do some maintenance on it. watching this for starters :Rod brakes on vintage style bicycles. Setting up and adjusting, tips & tricks, using a 1950 Raleigh
Regards


texts:
I ride relatively long distances on a road bike on Sundays, usually around 90-100 miles and have experimented much as to what to eat.  Here's what I've found so far.

Soreen - tastes good, full of carbs, although must be buttered other the slices become a little stodgy after the fifth slice.
Bananas - Certain provide energy but don't "fill you up"
Power bars, expensive especially if you eat 5-6 on ride, but do what they say and give you a good energy boost
Gels, immediate energy boost for when your really flagging.  However, taken as the sole food but prepared to much through quite a few!
Special K bars, 80 kcals per bar!  I was felt hungry even after eating 8 of them.
Snickers (Marathon) bars, great energy boost but felt like my teeth were going to fall out by the fifth.  Also this makes gum essential, plus with so much sugar you can kinda feel it come out in your skin when you sweat.

Basically I'm looking for superfood which make a perfect riding companion.  To make a good riding food it must be;

Consumable - Easy to open when riding, i.e. the packet can be broken into whilst riding, either through ease of packet, or use of teeth
Digestible - goes down well tastes good, and won't repeat when I start climbing through the hills.
Calories - Must contain enough calories so I can continue to ride without feeling hungry.
Durable - Are they going to melt in the heat?  Or become too brittle to eat in the freezing cold.

I'd be very happy for some more suggestions :-)


texts: What is the convention for highlight colors on cue sheets?

texts: I've noticed on group rides that some cyclists highlight turns and other information on cue sheets in different colors. Is there a universal convention for the colors used? (e.g. blue for left turns, pink for right)


texts: Is it possible to fit a 36 hole rim to a 32 hole hub?

texts: I recently had my rear wheel replaced because the old one was bent. Everything about the new wheel was correct except that the shopkeeper ordered a 36 hole rim instead of 32 one. Due to this he told me he had to fit a new hub as well. The problem is my bicycle came with high quality hubs and the one he replaced it with cost ~$3. My rear wheel is wobbling now and I suspect it's the generic hub. Buying a new hub will cost me twice the price of the wheel. Can I just reuse the old one with the new wheel


texts:
I find silver, black and occasionally red are quite dull colour choices. Granted there are some components out there in more interesting colours, but the engineer in me won't let me choose the "wrong" component simply because it looks pretty.

So I'm wondering what the options are for colouring metallic components, chainring bolts, brake levers, etc, at home. I suspect painting wouldn't look quite right and in the case of bolts, might cause things to get stuck or flake off in use.

How about anodysing? Is it something that can be done safely at home without too much risk of ruining the component? Does anyone have experience of this?


texts:
Disclarimer: sorry for the wall of text and for my English: I tried to describe the problem as best as I could and English is not my native language.
Hello. I have a following problem with my Shimano 105 R7000 new (4k KM) rear shifter:
At the end of a ride a week ago something happened inside it and it stopped shifting altogether all of a sudden. The feeling was as if something disconnected/snapped. I took the bike to my LBS, where the cable was replaced. However, the shifting is not the same anymore. It is impossible to adjust the shifting so that both of the following work: big chainring + smallest sprocket and small chainring + biggest sprocket. The shifting is also clunky no matter what. The chain will always rub against the next sprocket before shiting to a bigger one and will often slam into smaller one. Regardless of how much I fiddle with the barrel adjuster. Also, shifting from 6 to 7 or 7 to 8 smallest sprocket requires two clicks of the lever and a downshift afterwards. Else it won't shift - the derailleur IS moving, but doesn't go enough of a distance to facilitate a shift. Most it gets is a rub on the next bigger sprocket. Conversely, shifting to smaller sprocket afterwards won't produce a shift after 1 click, but instead will shift 2 gears after two clicks (so then to back one gear I have to do the previous routine again).
Needless to say this is hell. The problem is that I had exactly all of these symptoms 8 months ago. Exact same scenario resulting in same symptoms happened to me in November when I hit first snow in Sweden. Back then, the problem got eventually solved by getting a new shifter (after lots and lots of unsuccessful troubleshooting). So now, apart from wanting to fix the problem, I really want to know what is this.
To add to the description: both times, the shiter looks and feels differently than before the incident. The lever is angled a bit more towards the frame. The braking aspect of the lever is now different as well: the distance from the lever's resting point to the "max brake applied" point is around 6 mm shorter. I noticed this as soon as I first got on the bike (I'm quite sensitive with my brakes).
Here are the photos where the shifter's angle as well as the brake distance capacity is visible: https://imgur.com/a/FbAF929
I think it is also worth to add that I have a new casette (2500 KM) and a relatively fresh chain (1000 KM) ridden in good weather conditions. They are both well lubed. The shifter is also lubed. The cable end bit sits correctly in the designated slot in the shifter. The rear derailleur seems to be fine too and shouldn't have been touched or affected in any way, but I have made photos as well: https://imgur.com/a/PZffPTZ


texts: SR Suntour CR9 suspension cartridge removal

texts:
How does one remove the cartridge of a SR Suntour CR9 cartridge? This video shows how for other types, but the CR9 doesn't have the bottom bolt (you have to go in deep on the left side and unscrew a 5 mm allen bolt).

On a side note; when they "break the cap screw loose from cartridge shaft", they seem to be turning clockwise, which would make it tighter? I don't get that...

The CR9 seems a bit different. I undid the top cap, took out the splined gear (to which the knob attaches), and unscrewed the hollow 5mm allen bolt. What is left is a cartridge with a top cap:

If I undo the aforementioned bolt at the bottom of the left tube, I should be able to pull the lower legs down (can't do that yet; missing the long allen key)? But how can I pull them down with this top cap in the way?

Is that supposed to come off? I tried to get it off, but didn't want to yank too hard.

The ultimate goal is to re-grease the bushings and re-oil the wipers of the lower legs; nothing elaborate.


texts:
I've got an SR Suntour XCM HLO 27.5" 100mm travel that comes with my bike. It has preload adjuster on the left and lock on the right.

What I wonder is how to properly adjust the fork softness/stiffness as I encountered some bumps with stiff feelings on the fork.

Also, if I lock it and turn the preload adjuster, I can turn it more than if I let the fork open. What causes this and should I lock it before adjusting the preload?


texts: I'd like to upgrade my SRAM cassette, but confused by options

texts:
I have this bike: http://www.cxmagazine.com/blue-bicycles-norcross-al-cyclocross-bike-review,  with a 48/34 chainring and 11-26t cassette. I'd like to add some lower gearing.

SRAM offers at 11-32 cassette (https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/pg-1050-cassette), and it's supposedly for Apex, but I've been told I'll need a new rear derailleur as well - is this true? And will the 11-32 cassette work with the compact crankset? Thank you!


texts: long distance touring: is high tensile steel silly?

texts:
I am planning a touring trip, let's say around 10'000 km, across Asia more or less.

I have no intention at all to buy one of those several thousands - worth touring bikes.

Apparently, on a lot of websites, high-tensile is described as pure rubbish, without much more arguments (heavier..big deal...what else?). I have troubles finding a ChroMoLy steel frame, so here is my question:

Is it THAT silly to plan a trip with a high-tensile frame? (Brand:Giant Model:Chicago year: no idea, I guess mid 90's, not a single scratch on the frame, I am pretty sure the bike has been stored in a garage)

Any story to share on the topic?

thank you!


texts: Steering and Suspension gets stiff while riding my MTB. I did service the front suspension about 3 months ago (which is not long ago, since i only ride on weekends), but the problem still exists. When i don't ride it and it stands in house, the suspension seems to be working good and steering is not stiff. SR Suntour XCR is the model of my fork


texts: How can I unbend, straighten or flatten a bent rotor?

texts:
Some possibilities, which I haven't tried:

try to bend it back into shape with my hands while still mounted
take off the rotor, sandwich it between a couple of wooden blocks, put some weight on it and leave it for a night


texts: How should I transport Cannondale Bad Boy 5 INSIDE a BMW 4 Series Coupe?

texts:
So, I have a Cannondale Bad Boy 5 and I'm LOVING it.

I'd like to understand how to transport it. I have 2014 BMW 4 Series coupe. Even though I folded back seats (to maximize trunk storage), bike won't fit there (well at least not all the way anyway), so I gotta take one of the wheel off. The wheels are 700c discs and the fork is a Cannondale Lefty fork (i.e. attaches only on one side).

my main concern is since i cannot easily take off front wheel due to lefty fork and i can use quick release to take the rear wheel off; What's better way to handle derailleur (without ruining your cloth, car, etc).

Ideally I'd like to:

use quick release to remove rear wheel,
place chain into some sort of container (suggestions?),
place bike along with separated wheel (derailleur up) inside of the car,
go to wherever, and revert procedure.


texts:
I recently found this bike at a thrift store and although it looks pretty haggard I'm thinking it is a Kona. Some help identifying the model and such would be appreciated.

Serial number is F712K1083 and nearby are the numbers 81-30 as well. I have no way of knowing what parts are original but on the side of the seat there is a K
I looked around online already and it seems similar to the Kona Kahuna but I'm no expert.

I gathered from some things I read that the serial number can be read as: F=Fairly Factory/7=1997/12=December but that's as far as I got. If that is correct, does the K stand for the model?

Thanks!


texts: How do half link chains perform for long term use?

texts:
i was wondering if there is anyone with a Rohloff hub riding half link chains for longer. OK, the hub isn't essential it's just a single speed chain, so experience from anyone who rides more than the guy in the review on that page below is welcome.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31089

These chains are said to be very rigid. Good. But do they last as long as other high-end single speed chains?

best
         Hecke


texts: So when I ride my bike it likes to give a little traction at times like the front wheel wants to turn left. The rim looks straight to me and i double checked it. Is this a problem with the wheel or the tire? Should I buy a new set of Tires for my bike?


texts: Flashing light when pushing bike with (constant) low speed

texts:
When someone pushes his bike beside him in a constant (low) speed the light will not be at constant (low) brightness, instead it will flash with it's full brightness.

Why does it work like that?


texts: Burley trailer hitch, classic or alternative?

texts:
I've just bought a new bike that I intend to tow my Burley trailer. I've always used a standard hitch before but this will not fit on this bike because of the way the rear drop out is made.

I gather my options are the alternative hitch and the classic hitch.

The alternative hitch looks ideal.  However, I can't appear to get hold of one in the UK.  It looks like it might be discontinued.  Does anyone know if that is the case?

As for the classic hitch, I'm reasonably convinced that it will fit. However, I'm unsure how quick and easy it will be to disconnect and connect the trailer. My daily routine, storage space etc. means that I need to do this once a day.  So my question concerning the classic hitch is, how long does it take to remove and reconnect the trailer?


texts: Spoke nipple broke, should I replace more than one?

texts:
I had a spoke nipple break on my rear wheel, the threaded part broke off right where it enters the wheel.

The nipples appear to be aluminum alloy, which I believe are not as durable as brass nipples.

Since I have to replace the failed nipple anyway, is it likely that others were overly stressed after the first one failed and should I replace more than one (or all of them)? Is there any issue with having some brass nipples and some aluminum?

It's a rear wheel with 32 spoke, 3 cross lacing.


texts:
I have an old rear wheel - I think its from a Raleigh Arena roadbike from the late 70s or early 80s.   There are broken spokes that require the sprockets removed to access.  I've done this plenty of times on 26" MTB type wheels.

This bike has me stuck - its a 6 speed and I cannot get the freewheel off.

Here's the first shot, after the axle and ball bearings were removed but with the lock ring and dust shield in place.

I used a "hook" tool to unscrew the lockring - it was a standard righthand thread.   The dust cover responded to a screwdriver so I gently levered it out without bending it.

So my question is - do I continue using chain whips to try and unscrew each sprocket, or do I try and snag something into those two slots in the side of the bearing cup, or are those 9 tiny little slots where some special tool should engage?


texts: can down tube shifters be used with a gear set of 21 gears? (3x7)

texts: I have two bikes - one a vintage 12 speed with down tube shifters - the other a twist shift gear conversion with 21 set shimano gears. I want to put the 21 gear set on the intage road bike - can I simply connect the downtube shifters in place of of twist shift?


texts: Crank arm loose (squared taper). Can it be fixed?

texts:
My problem is that my squared taper crank arm keeps on coming loose no matter how hard I tighten the bolt - it also starts creaking.
Here’s a video of the problem
https://giphy.com/gifs/RlN0wNSZsWluF5izKz
I’m thinking replacing the crank arm would do it since it seems to have become larger than the axle. But I’m curious: can this be fixed somehow?
Edit: I’m thinking the whobbliness is normal since the bolt is suppose to tighten it against the axle. But the problem is that the axle has come all the way through the space for the arm, making it impossible for the nut to squeeze it against the axle.
Here you can see the axle coming all the way through the arm. Is this normal? Shouldn’t it stay inside so the nut can squeeze it against the axle?

Ideas if this can be fixed? I’m thinking that a new axle could also have the same issue
Edit 2: I’m thinking perhaps a washer that is as big as the crank hole walls could push towards the axle?


texts: What different standards exist for crank bolts into modern bottom brackets?

texts:
I bought a SunRace bottom bracket (BBS18). It didn't come with crank bolts, but since all the other crank bolts and bottom bracket I've used have been compatible with each other, including with other new cartridge-style bottom brackets, I expected that this would be compatible with the bolts I already have.

It isn't.

The crank bolts I do have went in a few turns, then the threads bound. I can force it, but this will start to damage the threads. They clearly have a different thread specification.

What different specifications exist? (And what bolts should I look for in this particular case? It's a M8 x P1.0 thread; how are these bolts likely to be described by cycle component retailers?)


texts: Dura Ace 7800 rear mech cable fixing plate replacement

texts: I can't get the rear mech cable fixing plate for a Dura Ace 7800 derailleur part Y5V598040 in the UK is there a substitute part I can use?


texts:
I got a great deal for a Lynskey R260, that is set for caliper brakes. I'm building my first bike from scratch and am thinking of using disc brakes on the front fork. Is there any reason why I wouldn't be able to use this fork with the R260?

I understand I'll need to use caliper brakes on the rear. Is it possible to mix and match?


texts:
Today I own a RST Champ fork with 100mm of travel.

After doing some research I found that there are 3 travel options 80mm, 100mm and 120mm.

I also find out that the adjustment is done by adding or removing things called "travel spacers".

I've done a lot of research but I couldn't find where are they inside the fork and how does it look like.

RST YouTube channel doesn't explain this, fork manual doesn't either and I couldn't find nobody even doing this adjust in their forks...

Any guesses?


texts:
I'm the fool who didn't wash the snow off his bike - it's a rusty mess.

I've just taken apart the front disc brake as it was rubbing. I think that was more to do with the disc being bent, but as I was doing it, I found the disc brake pads (?) are pretty rusty. This is what they look like:

Should this concern me at all? Can I clean them up, or should I replace them? Or are they fine just to be left?


texts:
If a Schwinn is made it China, does it have any resale value?

The decals say "Schwinn Cruiser," the pedals are Schwinn, as is the badge and the pannier bike rack, BUT the Serial Number seems to be "SL16 36" (or 38) which I can't find in any database (perhaps it's not from Chicago, or was made by someone else for Schwinn - made in China, just noticed, Giant?

The Schwinn badge says "Schwinn Quality," and looks like the one from 1995, according to this page:  http://re-cycle.com/History/Schwinn/SwnC_Badges.aspx

schwinn cruiser made in China

Many thanks for any quidance that can be offered : 0


texts:
I saw a picture of a seatpost that I'd like to buy but cannot find after much browsing. Unfortunately I no longer have a photo but have this information about it. Can someone identify it?

Black. Not sure if it was carbon or not.
Had a stylized "C" on it.
Was described as a Campagnolo C-Record seatpost (although I have never seen any Campy seatpost like this before).
Traditional round (possibly 25mm) post which transitioned to an aero profile
Saddle rail attachment was the most distinguishing feature. It was composed of what appeared to be disks with a concave furrow around their perimeter (like a clothline pulley) on either side of the post. The bottom of the saddle rails rested on this. Then there was some other type of attachment (was hard to see detail) on the upper side of each saddle rail.

It was a thing of beauty.


texts: Does there exist a non-electric bike that can go 60mph (95 km/h)?

texts:
I recently ran into this article here where a woman bikes at about 184 mph (295 km/h). Now certainly there were some crazy ideal conditions here like an extra special bike and clothes, drafting behind a race car, and salt flats but that did get me thinking.

Would it be possible to make a bike that can go to decently high speeds without those conditions? Essentially a really good bike that has a LOT of gear levels so you can start with regular bike gear sizes and work your way up to something that could theoretically reach a very high speed.

Now 60mph is probably a bit realistic but what I am essentially wondering is what kinds of bikes are designed with the kind of gear system that would allow for the bike to both reach regular speeds and rather high speeds should the peddler have sufficient strength.

Now I would look to top races like the Tour De France to get an indication of what is possible here but I wonder if there are restrictions involved there that might be limiting that ability. So I suppose my question is: are there bikes that push the limits of human powered pedaling that can be started without driving behind a race-car?

Forgive me if this is a bit of a naieve question. I am fairly new to keeping track of what bikes are out there and what is possible here. I only ask because I am currently able to drive the highest gear on my bike (entry level 500$ bike) on a flat surface without much issue. I am trying to get a feel for what speeds may be possible should I find one with the "next gear up".


texts: Replaced my crackset, chain keeps popping off the small chainring under load

texts:
Looking for a little lower gearing on my gravel bike, I replaced the crankset with a FSA Omega with 46/30 chainrings, along with a new bottom bracket & chain.

If I stand on the pedals while on the small chainring, I can get the chain to slip & pop off the chainring. This makes starting and climbing pretty rough ;)

The front derailleur looks to be adjusted correctly.

I'm looking for other ideas of what could be causing the chain to pop off, or maybe the FSA Omega crankset is just incompatible with my bike?


texts: How to tighten threadless headset? Top cap has no thread

texts:
The headset on my merida ride 100 has come loose. I watched a few videos to see how to tighten a threadless headset. They all say loosen the stem then tighten the top cap. However on my bike the top cap seems to do nothing, it's not threaded or anything and there's nothing inside.

How do I go about tightening the headset on a setup like this?


texts:
It's been a while since I've ridden places where I needed a map. So long that the last time I did it I used an Eclipse handlebar bag with a paper map folded in the pocket…

Sadly the Eclipse bag is no more, and I'm thinking that my iPhone might do a pretty neat job of replacing a paper map. For those of you who do this, I'd appreciate any insights you can offer into that to look for in a bag and/or a phone mount.

One major concern for me is the ease of navigating in urban areas where situational awareness trumps studying the map.


texts: What features does a mountain bike need to be converted to an ebike?

texts:
I'm looking convert a mountain bike and convert it to electric with a rear hub kit. I am wondering what features I should look out for to make this easier:

Is there any way to keep the cassette that comes with the bike or does this have to be replaced? Does it matter if it's a "freewheel" or "freehub"?
Will the front crankset need to be replaced with a larger gear for the higher speeds? Currently looking at a bike with a 40t large gear.
Does it matter which brakes and shocks come with it?
Do mountain bike tires work well at higher speeds or does it make sense to get something less "stubby"?


texts: What are the advantages of investment casting?

texts:
I'm starting to see more and more frames using investment casting for head tubes, drop outs, seat tubes, etc. Such as the new WTP c.r.e.a.m. frame . It looks nice, but I'm suspect on how much more strength this gives you over traditional welds. Does anyone have more info on this technology?

The current version of this frame has a traditional seat tube and head tube.

  For 2014 we have done quite a bit of work to the C.R.E.A.M frame. The
  advanced invest casting junctions have been replaced with a more
  conventional welded design. The main reason for this was to make this
  beautiful frame more affordable.


texts:
I want buy  Stop-A-Flat tube for my tire. Tire size is 26 x 2.25

Closest airless tube what I found, has size: 26 x 2.125

Is suitable that size for my 26 x 2.25 tire ?


texts:
I have been using my 2008 langster (new york edition) as my main form of transportation for a very long time. The drive train has thousands of miles on it, will occasionally slip links when going uphill, and needs a replacement. The teeth are very rounded.

I am not experienced with upgrading parts on a bicycle and do not understand what to look for to ensure compatibility between new and old. My goal is to replace the crankset and bottom bracket + chain + sprocket for a few hundred dollars.

What are the specifications I need to keep in mind for compatibility and performance?

I am also open for recommendations!

Thanks!


texts:
I was diagnosed with lumbar spinal disc herniation and told that I should exercise. I always liked biking, so I want to do that.

I have an older rigid mountain-bike and will be mostly driving on asphalt bike-roads. I know I should pay attention to bumps, so I stand up and use my legs and arms to take the hit.

Are there any more precautions I should take or things to avoid?


texts: What's the verdicts on hub-less circle bicycle wheels? Sturdy and "maintenance-free"?

texts:
You've probably seen these weird hub-less bicycles, the Reevo and the Cyclotron; while they "look cool" I wonder if anyone has long term maintenance experience on these. Considering that normal hub/dérailleur systems ought to get re-greased and fixed, and any stripped cogs replaced, every 10 years or so, I am not sure I believe the "maintenance-free" claim.
Is this bicycle design too new to be familiar with any bike repair shops... or is the verdict still out on the long term reliability on this design?


texts: Mounting a 12v motorcycle light on bike seat rails?

texts:
So now that I built a 12 volt (more like 11v) battery for my bike I would like to accessorize it with some 12v lights to get a unique look. I'm looking at motorcycle tail lights, but they all have two parallel bolts coming out the back 82mm apart. The rails on a bike seat seem to be about 50mm apart.

Is there something I get at the hardware store to jerry-rig a solution?

Back of the bike seat: (two horizontal rails 50mm apart with an angle at the end). Maybe I could zip tie in a ubolt pipe clamp somehow?


texts: Is this damaged aluminium frame unsafe to use?

texts:
Hello
I have a Giant Seek 3 aluminium frame where somehow the rear rim has rubbed the frame creating a hole as shown in the picture. On the other side there has also been some rubbing/scratching but it hasn't created a hole like this side.
I suspect it's unuseable/unsafe but just would like to confirm if anyone knows.

Update: Thanks all for your help.

I have decided to just salvage the parts off it and throw away the frame.


texts: Bottom Bracket terminology - English BB, SM-BBR60 BSA, English 68mm, ISO/English & BB30 confusion

texts:
My head is spinning with confusion on BB terminology, I'm hoping somebody can clarify things.

I'm interested in building a road bike with the Dengfu FM098 frame and an Ultegra groupset that I would like to purchase from Chain Reaction Cycles.

The frame is here:

http://dengfubikes.com/ROAD_FRAME/129.html

And from Chain Reaction the Ultegra groupset can be purchased here with some options:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6800-11-speed-groupset/rp-prod110818?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

or here with pretty much every conceivable option:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6800-11-speed-groupset-builder/rp-prod136551

So here is where the confusion begins.  The Dengfu link above lists the FM098 Bottom Bracket as "BB: English BB/BB30", I'm under the impression that this means a choice of an "English BB" or a "BB30" bottom bracket, is this correct?

Now considering the Chain Reaction Ultegra Groupset links, the one with fewer options does not list an option for BB, rather it states "Incl. Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket SM-BBR60 BSA".  The Ultegra Groupset builder with the many options has 2 choices for BB after choosing the Shimano Ultegra 6800 Bottom Bracket option, "English 68mm" or "Italian 70mm"

So I checked the Wikipedia page for BBs:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket

The table towards the bottom (see the column heading "Bottom Bracket Thread Name") seems to imply that ISO/English & BSC (British Standard Cycle) and BSA all effectively mean the same thing, and that the shell with for these is 68mm.

At this point I'm under the impression that the Denfgu "BB: English BB/BB30" means a choice of an English Bottom Bracket or a BB30 Bottom Bracket.  I'm also under the impression that the Chain Reaction Cycles Ultegra Groupset with "Incl. Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket SM-BBR60 BSA" would match the Dengfu frame with the English BB option, since BSA seems to mean the same thing as English, and English seems to be 68mm, is this correct?

If not, would the Chain Reaction Ultegra Groupset Builder with the "English 68mm" option fit the Dengfu FM098 frame with the "English BB" option (supposing this is actually a separate option from the "BB30" on the Dengfu FM098)?

Sorry if this is a beginner question but BB terminology can be quite confusing!


texts: I bike for work and I've taken a few days off for the holidays. It's been very cold and rainy and Ive tried to keep my bike covered. I hopped on my bike after about a week and a half of disuse, and I began pedaling. With each pedal rotation it seemed like I was going over a small speed bump with my front tire. I tried pedaling faster and slower but the bumping sped and slowed down respectively. Also whenever I used my handbrake I'd smell this weird almost burning smell.


texts: Huffy 24 Alpine mountain bike POWER shifter compatibility

texts: I need a compatible front and rear shifters for a Huffy Alpine 24" mountain bike. It presently has POWER shift shifters.


texts: Can I install/convert a Giant Quick-e+ 2019 to use an Alfine 11 speed IGH?

texts:
I have a Giant Quick-e+ 2019 and would like to install either a Alfine 11 speed di2 IGH. My first question is, is it compatible? I've been looking at the measurements and it seems all ok. But when I ask different bike shops I get different responses from ones like "why do you want to do that?" to it will break because it's an e-bike. One shop had a look and said it looks like it would work and thought that a bike like that being a commuter type bike would have been a good match, which I agreed and why I want it.

From the whole e-bike breaking the hub thing, Shimano list a version the SG-S7051-11 being revised with "Improved internal structure for better gear engagement" and "Improved performance for both E-BIKE and non-E-BIKE usage"
So I think for a 250w - 500w e-bike it should be ok, especially for my type of riding which is all on road/pavement and almost all flat?

What do people think about this project? Is it suitable? Will I have issues? What other components do I need? One bike shop said I might need a torque arm for it. I didn't know about this as I thought all I need was the correct washers for a vertical drop out.

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

edit: I would be running the hub with either a 42T or 44T chainring and a 18T sprocket. Not sure if those ratios would be ok?


texts: Do Shimano MTB shoes in half-sizes make a perceptible comfort difference?

texts:
My 10+ year old MTB shoes are finally dying. I'm looking for replacements.

My shoe size is usually 7 UK (42 EU) for the left foot and 7.5 UK (43) for the right.  I see Shimano do European half sizes (under size guide).
Some shoes are available in half sizes, others not.

Does anyone find that Shimano MTB shoes in EU half-sizes make a perceptible comfort difference compared to full sizes?


texts: What is the maker and year of this frame with the serial number a2008112

texts: I'm needing help identifying my frame with serial number a2008112 please help


texts:
I daily cycle 20~30 km in (high) traffic going between home, faculty and other places. However I have never been outside of city or in any kind of competition.

Now I have to go to another city and I was wondering if it is a good idea to attempt this journey with my bike.

The route:

180 km, Bucharest to Focșani, Romania.
total ascent 900m (mostly final part)
total descent 750m
national road (100 kph), well maintained, 1 or 2 lane(s) per direction, no median barrier
100% asphalt
passes villages and 2 major cities.

My bike I think it is a hybrid bike (or MTB maybe), but nothing high-end.

The weather is nice and at return, if that won't be the case, I have to option to take the train (it hopefully should allow for carying the bike).

My main concern is traffic (I am used to traffic, but in the city) and the bike breaking down.

I don't think there will be physical problems from me and I expect to make it in less than 12 hours, but again I never attempted anything like this so...

The prospect of this road trip with my bike really excites me, but I don't want to do something foolish. So should I go for it, or just take the damn bus? If the bike breaks down and I cannot fix it what are my options? Anything else I should be worry about?


texts: What is air pressure on Marzocchi forks?

texts: I have changed oil in a set of Marzocchi Drop Off forks with 110mm travel. I can’t find the recommended air pressure on Marzocchi website. There is a spring on one side. I think they are 2004 but not certain, forks are black coloured throughout.


texts:
Mavic make a wheelset called Ksyrium.  I can spell it but every time I go to say it, I come out with something different.

Does anybody know how to pronounce the name?