texts: Can I use an 11-32 cassette promoted for MTBs on my trekking bike with Shimano Acera rear derailleur?

texts:
I need to replace my cassette but assortment is restricted atm.
Can I use the following cassette on my bike?
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/cs-pg-950-a1
It's an SRAM PG-950, 9 speed, 11-32T. With regard to those numbers it should be fine on my trekking bike. But what confuses me is that it is explicitely promoted for MTBs. Is that a deal-breaker or irrelevant?


texts: Is the FOx TALAS 32 RLC suitable for reasonable jumps, ligh DH?

texts:
Here is the details of the suspension:
FOx TALAS 32 RLC

At the end it sais, that INTENDED USE is XC, AM.

Not exactly sure what AM means, I have a few light enduro trails nearby, and the biggest jump is under 1meter in height.

Could this be the cause that I ruined the bushing in my fork after 3 month(15hours) of riding on these trails?

Thanks


texts: Busted my bike hub & derailleur (I think) - how bad is it?

texts:
I screwed up :( Background leading to my foolishness: I've been straining my bike quite a bit with hills and inclimate weather, and I haven't been able to find my maintenance kit since I've moved, so in my busyness I've let myself push around on a squeaky rusting chain. I realize I may be learning an expensive lesson now.

Today I kicked off and start pedaling, finding my chain was jammed up and not moving smoothly through a full rotation. That has happened before with a poorly oiled chain and I've pushed or shifted my way back into relatively-smooth operation. Well I pushed and it was stuck, not moving forward at all. Should've got off there but instead I pedaled backward a little, shifted and pushed, and it moved a little. That inspired me to push harder, and in my haste I pushed recklessly hard to pedal forward. Well, it stayed stuck and felt pretty wonky at that point, so I calmed down my haste and got off to check what's wrong. I found the back wheel had tilt/camber to it and the derailleur was bent out of alignment - I was definitely not getting anywhere quick anymore!

I'll bring this to a local bikeshop ASAP to get repaired. Seeing what appears to be a weld severed, I'm not sure if this is a costly repair or a major overhaul I'm looking at. How bad are the damages, can you identify what specifically appears damaged and in need of repair? Is the frame and hub okay to keep and just needs a new derailleur?

From a different angle:

Rear wheel appears normal to me, no clear damage on axle, spokes, wheel frame or anything. I think the connection point for the rear wheel to the frame is what got busted in some way from my pushing, which led to the derailleur getting bent and the wheel off-camber.


texts: When should I move onto double jumps from tabletops?

texts:
I do mountain biking on some of my local trails and I have started doing some tabletop jumps which I can now clear, but I am afraid of starting to try doubles. Any advice?

Thanks.


texts: Front wheel twist and move in dropouts when braking or on aggressive turns

texts:
I discovered that my front wheel moves on the dropouts. I have searched the web to know why? But most of answers was "replace quick release and problem gone" so I replaced the quick-release with different one. Not quite quick-release per se because it is allen bolt(you know hexagon shaped socket) but problem remain. It is quite tight right now I put some strength to tighten it up really good. So I looked at the old quick-release and saw this:

It this quite damaged in my opinion and I'm afraid that because of this my dropouts are damaged too. Could this be the case? How do I resolve this problem? What's to do when problem remain even with new quick-release? Fork is aluminium, wheel size is 29', disc brakes. I would love to provide any information that could help resolve this problem.


texts: Maximum weight an average bicycle can carry?

texts:
A few years ago, I've bought this (see edit) bike. At that time I was around 90 kgs and I didn't have any problems.

Today I'm around 120 kgs and I was considering (among other things) starting cycling again. Is this bike "good" enough to carry me? What should I expect? Any tips?

EDIT! Apparently, Drag have renamed some of their bikes in the last few years, so the above information is a bit wrong. This seems to be my bike. At first I didn't recognize much difference, but this one has suspension on the front which mine also has. Does this change anything


texts:
I'm currently rebuilding a 1992 Kona Cindercone as a 1x9 commuter.
The rear spacing is 135mm and the bottom bracket shell is 68mm.

I've mounted a alfine crank on it and remove the spacer that what installed on the drive side of the crank and put it on the non drive side on the crank.

The chainline looks okay and both crank arms seem to be at the same distance with the chain stay. However I now have that massive spacer in between my crank arm and BB cup and I'm sure this is plain wrong.

I also have no experience with hollowtech cranks.

Here are some picture to illustrate my problem:

So what am I doing wrong here?
Thanks


texts: Can replacing my handlebar tape help reduce finger numbness?

texts:
Despite changing hand positions often and switching to more "cushiony" gel gloves, I'm still experiencing intermittent numbness when I ride (sometimes I get tingling and sometimes not).

Are certain types of handlebar tape likely to help? The tape on my bike is several years old. I see gel and cork tapes (and those that claim to be both gel and cork), neither of which I have tried.

I realize that I don't actually know what the real purpose of handlebar tape is (perhaps that's another question). It might be that it is only for helping you keep a grip on the bars when they get sweaty.


texts: I have a 2013 Diamondback Podium 3. Is it possible to use it as a touring bike?

texts:
I am new to bicycling and i don't have a clue as to what is necessary for a long distance bike trip. I am not sure that the Podium Three will fit my queen sized mattress. Most of the racks available will only hold up to thirty pounds and my TV weighs at least that much.  Should i get a bike that is better suited for longer distances with more weight, or should i just try to modify my current bike to fit the purpose.

P.S. The Diamondback Podium Three is hydro-formed aluminum frame with 105 components(10 speed cassette). it weighs around 20 lbs and is classified as an endurance road bike. It has no mounting points for a rack.

i am also kidding about the tv and mattress.


texts: What are the possible upgrades to a 95' Cannondale M900?

texts:
Everything is original except for saddle, tires and forks. I have a sentimental attachment to this bike but would like to bring it into the 21st century.  I'm looking to make this a nice project bike but don't know much about the compatibility of new components on this model. Things I would like to upgrade are; Suspension forks, wheel set and tires, disc brakes, front and rear chainrings, shifter/derailer, crank arms, handlebar and any other related parts needed. Looking to create a real retro beast.
The bike had the stock rigid forks that I upgraded myself to RockShox JudyXC back in the day but those elastomer pistons are toast. Since it's been a while that I traded serious riding for changing diapers I figure It's time to take the bike out of retirement and make it something worth riding and passing on to my son when he goes off to college in a couple of years.
Any advice and/or guidance would be much appreciated.
Thanks


texts: Short vs Long brake pads (with v-brakes) on road bike rims at high speed

texts:
Would v-brakes with the normal v-brake long pads (as opposed to shorter brake pads) on road rims exhibit any problematic behavior going downhill at speeds of 50 mph?  I am concerned that the longer brake pad may be more susceptible to shudder and/or grabbiness than shorter pads.

Background:

The bike in question is a Surly Cross Check which is set up with brake posts for cantilever or v-brake.  Caliper is not an option.

The brakes I have ready to put on are Deore XT br-t780 (with long brake pads) , front and back.

Other v-brakes with shorter pads are available, e.g., Shimano BR-M422.  (But these M422 are much lower quality than the T780 - and the question is about long vs short pads, not quality of the brakes they come with).

The cable travel in the lever is not an issue as I have the problem solver travel device ready.


texts: What could be the cause of phantom pain?

texts:
I am new to cycling, after doing my usual route, the next few days I feel like a phantom pain in my calves and thighs if I do not use them (like running or cycling).

Could anybody shed some light on this annoying pain?

Cheers!


texts: My Rock N Roll Gold bike lube seems to get solid or gelatenous when stored on my unheated, but enclosed porch at colder temperatures.  Is a chain lubricated with this product still going to be sufficiently lubricated when riding in freezing (below 0c or 32f) temperatures?  Should I find a different cold weather alternative?


texts: Would rotating or flipping disc brake rotors make any sense?

texts:
Front brakes take the brunt of braking forces - so the front rotor wears faster than the rear. With mechanical disc brakes, the rotor gets pushed in one direction only so wear is also uneven.

For extreme cheapskates, would rotating your rotors front to back make any sense (assuming same size discs)?

Would flipping them make any sense (or even be feasible)?


texts:
I have a set of Velocity Dually 29” wheels. The interior rim width is 39mm. I currently have Surly Knard tires but get a lot of buzz when riding on pavement. Ideally, I'd like a set of tires that run smoother on pavement but still good for mild-offroad/gravel.

What properties should I look for in a tire for my needs?


texts: Can I replace a 26"/2,0 rim with a 26"/1.75 rim?

texts:
My bike's front rim bent and I want to replace it.

I bought a Apollo Summit 10 for 250$

After some time the front rim bent when I fell down on the street and when I asked in the market its 120$ for a 26"/2.0 aluminium front wheel.

I searched for the rim online and i found one that is 26"/1.75 Can I use 26"/1.75 aluminium rim for the same Tyre and Tube?

Is it going to work properly ?


texts: Caliper position effect on braking or suspension?

texts:
According to http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/featured-stories/jacks-not-here-man

  Where the caliper grips the rotor along its diameter makes no difference in braking or suspension behavior.

Does "no" really mean "zero", as the article claims? (I often find that universal claims are overstated, so I look out for them.)

Or is the article exaggerating the point that the "most important" forces with regards to suspension comes from the contact patch effect?


texts: Why does my bike make noise in certain gears?

texts:
I'm relatively new to cycling so this question may be obvious to some of you.

When I get into certain gears my chain or drive train makes a noise that I can only to compare to the noise a rollercoaster makes when it starts going up the first hill. (That analogy will either make perfect sense to you or you won't get it at all)

It happens specifically when I get into higher gears on the rear rear cassette.

What could be causing it to make this ungodly noise?


texts:
One of my most useful bicycles is my 58cm 700c Xtracycle based on a Novara Xpresso cyclocross style frame. Lately, as the kids are getting bigger and my back isn't getting any younger: I crave a much lower top bar. I would consider a used mixte frame, a step-through frame, or other really low diamond frame. Recommendations for sturdy and faithful frame models appreciated. Ability to handle 3 rings and 8 cogs plus a chain stay bridge preferred.

These areas would help me evaluate the frames I might find:

Stability: I have heard some people mutter that mixte frames are "unstable" as donor frames. Is this substantial? (I get some shimmy and flex in my present Xtracycle but I'm running a cro-moly frame but it doesn't bother me.)
Fit: Is there a more limited range of geometry among these frames? Could I find frames like these around 56-58cm or about 19.5 inches? If it is a large "WSD" style frame, how much difference does that make for a male pilot?
Strength: Are frames with lower top bars any weaker?  Steel is not a requirement, but I expect to load it up with camping gear and elementary school
age kids.


texts: I am 176 cm height (with 85 cm inseam). What will be my frame size for Surly disc trucker 26? Will size 56cm fit or be too big? I cannot find a size for this model. Thank you in advance for your help.


texts: Converting 3×7 speed into a 2(chainrings)×1(sprockect)

texts:
I own Firefox Rapide 21s, which has Acera 7s(14-28t) groupset are rear and Tourney 3s(28-38-48t) groupset at front.

In a recent accident, the rear derailleur took some impact and is bent now, it doesn't latch on to 7th &1st gear. I went to a mechanic he applied some pressure to make it straight, he said it(method) could potentially make the derailleur straight, and I don't want to spend money in getting a new one.

While coming back home, I tried to shift up to 1st gear to see what happens -- it dug into one of the spokes, locking the tyre, making me fall. Now that spoke is bent and has become loose.

However, the real question is:
Now, I don't like the method he has proposed to straighten it. Hence, I have decided to remove all the gears and make it a single speed.
My focus always has been higher speed, so I'm thinking of getting 53t×11t(chainring×sprocket).
But I'm also thinking - the ratio that setup makes might be a little bit too much for me in all circumstances.
Therefore, I was thinking of fitting a double crankset up front(possibly 34-50t or 39-53t) and single sprocket(possibly 12t or 14t, respectively).
Or is that even possible?

I goolged and looked at most places, but could find any answer.


texts: Can i convert my Road bike to a Fixed Gear bike?

texts: I was just wondering if i can convert my aluminum road bike into a fixed gear bike? If so, what is the BEST/SAFEST way to do so?... Reason why is because i have no need for gears due to the fact that i only ride on flat surfaces for short periods of time throughout the day. The dropouts on my bike are perpendicular to the ground by the way... Thanks in advanced!


texts: What is the relationship between tyre pressure and weight?

texts:
To give an example of what I'm trying to understand:

To accelerate to a given speed or maintain that speed with a tyre pressure of e.g. 100PSI requires a certain amount of energy. If that amount of energy is held constant, and the tyre pressure is dropped to e.g. 80PSI, how much lighter would my bike need to be to attain / maintain that speed.

What prompts my question is the observation that many cyclists who commute have under-inflated tires, yet have paid a premium for aluminium over steel.


texts: Front derailleur won’t shift into third gear

texts:
Total mechanical noob here so I appreciate your help and patience. Have a Mid 2000’s Giant Sedona Cx. The front derailleur won’t shift into third gear.
I have tried a few things to see what’s going on. I’ve attempted tightening the shifter cable, adjusting the high limit screw as well as adjusting the derailleur on the frame. All with no luck.
When attempting to shift into third, the shifter doesn’t seem to engage the derailleur until it is pressed at least 75% of the way down. When pressed all the way down the derailleur isn’t pushed far enough to even contact the chain yet alone push it up to the third gear.
Given this information I suspect the shifter may need to be replaced. I’d just like a better opinion before I go any further. Thanks for any help!


texts: What size Mr. Tuffy Liner should I buy for my 24"x1.95" bike tires?

texts:
Mr. Tuffy size chart is here: http://www.mrtuffy.com/sizes.html

My tire size is 24"x1.95".

If I go by tire diameter, I should go with Mr. Tuffy's Blue liner which fits 24"x1.375".
If I go by tire width, I should go with Mr. Tuffy's Brown liner which fits 26"x1.95".

Since the liners are supposed to be on the long side and should overlap, I'm leaning towards choosing the brown liner.

For those of you who have experience with Mr. Tuffy's liners and its installation and use, what do you recommend and why?

Thank you.


texts: What Dahon adjustable handlebar stem would suit my Dahon MU XL Sport Bike

texts:
I own Dahon Mu xL Sport foldable bike and use it for exercise. I have a back problem and would like to fit a Dahon adjustable stem to keep my riding position more upright. I have tried adjusting the saddle height but am still sore after cycling.
Can you let me know, please:

what Dahon stem would suit

what is the likely cost

I'm living in Ireland and finding it heard to locate a stockist. Can you suggest any store.


texts: On Shimano disk brakes, are both pads supposed to move?

texts:
I have Shimano disk brakes (cable operated, no hydraulics), they are still pretty new.

I noticed that under braking, only one of the brake pads moves inward.

Is this how they are supposed to work? Or are both pads expected to move?

I do know there is an allan-key screw that I can move to adjust the brakes, but I don't know if both pads are supposed to move when braking.


texts: How to determine my bike's seat post clamp size?

texts:
My mountain bike came with a quick release clamp that reads '34' on its side (embossed or debossed, am forgetting. Reading online there are about 3 sizes for seat post clamps I went with i believe '32mm' something (lower than 34, since the next higher size 'sounded' too big to me), but it turned out noticeably larger, so i had to return it. So what does the '34' stand for? And how can I determine size without going to a bike shop?
-thanks


texts: Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?

texts:
This wouldn't apply to riding technical trails or anything challenging, but are there any reasons to eschew the tunes while riding?  Noise canceling earbuds would probably be hazardous to myself and others, but provided I can hear what's going on around me, is there any reason not to?

edit - it almost seems wrong to edit and make some of the answers sound off, but FWIW, I was asking in reference to riding places without cars.  Parks and such.


texts: Day-trip bike for hefty 40-year-old woman?

texts:
I have an Electra Townie 7d, and I'm quite fond of her (sorry, I do anthropomorphize my bike) as a commuter and farmer's-market hauler, but I'd like a more efficient bike for afternoon-trips (say, 50 miles round-trip), mostly on rails-to-trails with gravel or dirt surfaces.

I have done 40 miles on the Townie, but it's harder than I think it needs to be. She's slow (I sometimes have trouble keeping up with my husband on his Trek FX), she absolutely loathes even slight uphill inclines, and because so much of my weight is thrown backward, the longer rides give me a numb butt.

About me:

Hefty. Figure me + gear + water = 250 lbs.
Casual rider
Forty. FORGET about anything but a relatively upright position.
Not great at bike maintenance (I can fix a flat, change brake pads, and adjust my saddle... that's about it).

What I think I'm looking for (feel free to disagree):

Something in the hybrid/fitness/touring line
Aluminum frame (I don't trust myself to maintain steel properly; also, my Townie is heavily scratched, so...)
No fancy "suspension" forks, please.
Women's geometry (mixte or step-through a plus, but not required)
Straight handlebars, possibly with upright bar-ends
Quality components and minimal maintenance a HUGE plus. Internal hub, maybe?
Braze-ons for two bottle cages and a rear rack (I'm old; on day trips I carry first aid for the bike AND for me...) Rear fender a plus, but I can live with a mudguard.

What bike models might work? How do I best eliminate models that won't? Let's say a maximum of USD$3000 for price, but cheaper would be fabulous. Please also rec good components that I should be looking at, considering my weight.


texts: Which Tern is suitable for a beginner commuter?

texts:
I live in Dublin, CA. I have a 5 miles commute each way from my house to my office. There will an upward climb on the way back home.

Google map with biking route

I am a beginner when it comes to biking. I haven't biked for years since I was a kid. Previously I lived in a city where transport is very convenient so there's no need for a bike commute. I just relocated to Dublin, CA for studies and work, it's a suburban area with swathes of land so I have to bike to get from point A to point B. I have to commute to Stanford via trains/bus as well, so it's helpful to have a bike that can fold.

I'm looking into buying a Tern. Brompton is too expensive; I don't know how to appreciate the higher-end folding bikes since I haven't rode a bike in years. I thought I'd start off small with an affordable but sturdy foldie like Tern.

I'm looking into two options: Tern Link Uno or Tern Link D8. Link Uno is cheaper as it is single-speed, and it looks aesthetically pleasing as well. I'm not sure whether I can handle multiple gears since as I said, I haven't cycled in a long long time. However, judging from the bike path, as you can see on the Google Map, there will be an uphill climb near to the end of my journey home. I'm not sure such a climb is considered steep; you should know that I have no prior experience biking in such a suburban place (I lived in a city all my life). Hence I seek your expertise on this matter. Will that warrant for a Link D8 instead? It has multiple gears so that I guess it can take care of the uphill ascent.

Hills aside, which bike do you think is more suitable for a complete beginner? I'm 6'1" tall, 187 lbs, in generally good shape.


texts: Please help me identify this brake pad type

texts:
What is the proper name for this type of brake pad?

Thanks


texts: Mountain Bike has 26 x 2.125 Tires on, Can I Fit 26 x 1.95?

texts:
My mountain bike has 26 x 2.125 tires on it and I am ordering new 26 x 1.95 tires.

Will these be okay to use? What issue might this cause? Or will the difference be negligible?


texts: Rear bicycle rack for car with mini-spoiler

texts:
I have an Audi A1, which has a small spoiler on the back; it's built into the car, not something I have put on. I have been looking for a bike mount/rack that I can place on the rear of the car.

A member of Halfords (popular every-day automobile and bike store in the UK) staff told me that because of the spoiler at the top, there isn't a suitable rack for this type of car. At least not one that they sell.

I am aware brand recommendations are a bit off-topic here, but perhaps there is a specific type of rack I need to be searching for? Roof mounted rack is not an option for me unfortunately.


texts:
I'm very sure that the attached picture is my '55, '56 or '57 Schwinn Traveler. But I've never seen markings like this one has; the striped bands around the frame, the name "Schwinn" in script, and the white pinstriping near the top of the fork. Anyone got an opinion?  Thanks!!

The edge of the picture got cut off, but it is dated, June, 1957.


texts:
More than half a year ago, I bought a 3T Exploro Team frameset. To my big surprise, when building the bike, the fork's race crown is missing.
The brand of the head tube cups is Cane Creek.
Asking since my Google-Fu doesn't cut it this time...


texts: My bike leans to the right. What should I check?

texts:
The bike I use to commute - a cheap, no brand city bike - is unbalanced, and naturally leans to the right. This is not noticeable normally, but it's enough to make riding without the hands on the bars requires quite some effort to avoid drifting right.

Of course I can't just ask you what the cause is, but could you help me in finding it? What should I look for/test/check?


texts: Should I check puncture-resistant tires for glass etc.?

texts:
I'm running 700x35 Marathon tires with their Greenguard puncture-resistance layer (not as thick as the Marathon Plus's, but it's there). Should I check the outside of the tires for bits of glass or similar material? If so, how often?

Mostly-urban riding; there's a bar en route to work that does sometimes sport the odd smashed bottle in the street.


texts: How to pump tire with cap that won't come off

texts:
I have a Schwinn bike from probably mid 2000's. The front tire has a regular valve cap that I can twist off and pump with a floor pump. The back tire has an oval cap that I cannot get off. And it seems like it is attached onto a tube, not just a regular valve like the front tire. I can't pull off the cap or twist it off. Not sure how to get it off to pump the tire.

I don't bike a ton and am not sure if I am using the right terminology. It might be too vague but if anyone knows what I am talking about I appreciate the advice!


texts: Can an imperfect hub make a disc rotor rub?

texts: I had a 160mm disc rotor on a road bike that was rubbing a bit in one spot, not severely, but enough for me to notice.  I've tried to true it a few times over the past couple months with little improvement.  I finally ordered a new rotor (sram centerline) and noticed it's also touching the pad, possibly more so than the old, but it sounds better under hard braking oddly enough.  I checked the new rotor before I put it on and it was straight.  I'm wondering if my hub is just imperfect and that's whats causing the alignment issue.  Is this common and if so is there a fix?


texts: what is the ideal presta tube valve stem length

texts: I have noticed that presta tube valve stems come in various lengths. I always assumed the longer valve stems were to allow the use of deeper aero wheels. Why is it that many wheels in print ads seem to have what I would consider an excessive amount of stem exposed? Is there an advantage or disadvantage to usng a stem that is just long enough?


texts: Is my 2017 Trek Fuel EX 5 Stealth internally routed dropper seatpost compatible?

texts:
I have got a 2017 Trek Fuel EX 5. After Christmas I may be upgrading it with a dropper seatpost.

I would like to know if it is compatible with an internally routed dropper seatpost.


texts:
I have AVID Juicy Brake pads, the time has come to replace the front pads.  The old pads are very worn. The new ones have lots of "pad" compared to the old ones, of course.  I've tried to install the new ones but there is not enough room for them in the caliper.
I've tried pushing the pistons back with a screwdriver (they moved a little), swearing, shouting, pondering over cups of tea and watching You Tube on the subject.

Should I let some brake fluid out to allow the pistons to open more?


texts:
Jones makes a great pair of touring handlebars with a loop for mounting lots of accessories, but their prices are a bit steep ($120-$425). I'm building a mountain touring bike and I've been trying to find a comparable bar for a more reasonable price, but so far no luck.

Is Jones the only company that makes this style of handlebar?

Note: There are plenty of accessory mounts that can do the same job as the loop on the h-bar, but I'm not interested in those. I'm looking for this exact style of bar, or a significantly similar bar.


texts: handling and steering difference for stem/bar reach combinations?

texts:
I was wondering what the steering/handling differences would be (if any) between the two combinations below?  Assume rider's hands are on bar hoods.
Combo 1 = 90 stem and bar with 80mm reach.
Combo 2 = 90 stem and new bar with 70mm reach.

My current setup is Combo 1 but I feel I am slightly stretched out.  I would also consider a Combo 3 of new 80 stem and bar with 80mm reach (would be cheaper than #2).

I have had a Retul fit done for my older bike. The new bike I got (2 weeks ago) was fitted by the sales person. I am having a painful adaptation to the new bike fit.

I roughly measured the difference in diagonal reach from mid-saddle to the bar (center) near the hoods. The old bike is 11mm less reach than the new bike. But the old bike is also 17mm lower than the new bike ... this is the saddle to bar drop.

In terms of handling ... isn't a 100 stem with a 70 reach bar roughly the same as a 90 stem with a 80 reach bar?

I understand how a shorter stem can affect the steering but ... I usually steer when my hands are near the hoods, not when my hands are on the top of the bars. So when my hands are near the hoods, then the stem length PLUS the bar reach must be considered together. Or am I missing something?


texts:
While carrying my road bike via plane one of my front dropouts has been bent slightly so I can't easily install or remove my front wheel. After I inspected the dropouts I found that one of them has closer tips compared to other, so the threaded axle of the front hub doesn't fit the entrance of the slot.
If I file my aluminum fork's dropout until it is the correct size, will that create another problems? If I remember correctly bending aluminum will create more damage than repairing.
Update
I've taken some pics to clarify my situation. In this picture you could see that axle of front hub has already started to abrade the dropout.

Not sure maybe it's my misalignment but looks like the 2 fingers (ears) of the dropout do not looks perfectly parallel.


texts: I want the year and model of my powerlite BMX bike

texts: This is my powerlite BMX bike. The serial number is ACC93J0783 I would like to know what year and model it is.


texts: Slight wobble/"drift" in chain due to crankset?

texts:
A few months ago I replaced the bottom bracket on my 2002 Fuji Finest. After reassembly I noticed the chain "wobbles" slightly when pedaling. You can see in this video the chain drifts toward the outer edge of the derailleur during rotation.

I assumed the issue is caused by one of two things: 1) the BB; 2) the crank.

Here is what I've attempted so far:

I had another, new BB available. Thought maybe Bracket A was wonky. Both are Shimano square taper brackets new out of the box. I replaced bracket A with bracket B, reattached the arm. Still wobbles.
I had a spare, new crankset available out of the box. Thought maybe Crank A was bent. I tried Cranks A and B on both brackets A and B (so combinations of AA AB BB BA). Still wobbles.
I reseated both cranks on the BBs. The bolts are on tight and the crank itself feels solid. Still wobbles.

At this point I'm a bit stymied. I accept that the bike is rather old, and the bike still functions just fine (I've put a few hundred miles on it since the BB replacement). My main concern is the wobble may get worse if not addressed now.

Any thoughts on this? I appreciate the insight of the more technically adept!


texts: Can you recommend high quality cycling-centric films? Can you recommend good sources (for example, publishers, distributors, vendors, etc.) to locate these films?


texts: How do I determine parts for my bike and where to source them (new)?

texts:
Do bike shops have specs guides or manuals to know which (eg: integrated headset bearings) parts to use on which bikes? And where do they source said parts (other than from the bike mfr)?

And most importantly: where can the average Joe like myself get this info and buy parts?

The bike I'm currently working on is a 2011 Scott SUB 30, but I can't seem to find any information about specific componentry online. If I were to take it into my LBS I'm sure they'd have no trouble figuring out where to buy, eg, the correct drailleur hanger or headset bearings.

How can I do the same? Important note: I live in Canada, so would prefer not to pay large import taxes from international sources if possible


texts:
There are a lot of questions related to using automotive grease on bikes. The answers seem to be split between "well, at least you are greasing your bike" and "use the right grease for the job". This answer was really helpful in that it says any grease that is not too thin and not too sticky will do. The problem is I don't know how thin or how sticky the desired grease is (or where my blue automotive brake grease is compared to that).

I was looking around on Amazon and found that small (few ounces) bottles of bike grease are around $10. That seems expensive since I bought this huge (several pounds) tub of automotive brake grease for around the same price.

I have a cheap Craigslist junker. It creaks real bad and everything is covered in a think black paste. If I clean it all off and replace it with blue automotive brake grease, would it really be all that bad for my bike?


texts: Rear derailleur mounting bolt or hanger thread stripped?

texts:
Having some issue with my SRAM X01 Eagle rear derailleur mounting to the frame idk it won't bolt in with my torque wrench it's very loose? When it comes to drivetrain stuff I'm not experienced enough working with it seems simple issue but idk maybe the bolt is stripped? Or the hanger on the frame is stripped ? Any help appreciated thanks trying to avoid taking to a bike shop.

I think I got it set up right with the tab lined up with hanger and the B-screw


texts: Food to keep in pannier long-term until it's needed?

texts:
For long planned cycles, I'm able to plan to feed myself. But sometimes in the evenings I leave work and just decide to set out for an extra half an hour's cycling about for fun - then four hours later I'm up a hill in a strange tiny village wishing I had something to eat. But this situation only comes up once every few weeks. I've been trying to think of good ideas for 'emergency snacks' that I can just put in my cycling bag and forget about for weeks until I need them;

It should survive being knocked about a bit and sometimes having heavy stuff dumped on top of it (so not biscuits or bananas).
It shouldn't expire for at least a month or two.
Ideally it wouldn't add too much weight or take up too much space.

My best idea so far is a couple of those half-size tins of fruit (like peach slices) with ring-pull tops and a tea spoon.


texts: I broke my chain catcher, so i replaced it. but after assembling everything back on to the bike, i noticed that there's some rattling noises in the bottom bracket. Does that mean that i should buy a new bottom bracket?


texts: Do I need to plug internal cable routing ports?

texts: I have just ordered a OneUp Components 42T sprocket and a Race Face 30T Narrow/Wide single ring so that I can convert my 3x10 drive train into a 1x10.  This means that I'll be removing the front derailleur all together.  I have a carbon frame with internal cable routing so once I've removed the shifter cable there will be open "ports" in the frame.  Is it important to plug these ports?  What might happen if I don't plug them?  There is one where the cable enters at the top of the frame, and one under the bottom bracket where the cable exits.


texts: Can a child seat attached post-manufacture be as good an attachment as a manufacture installation?

texts:
I live in Japan. My wife has a regular good bicycle with a basket. I have a son who is 1 year and 8 months (he is 11 kilograms and is currently carried in a baby sling). My parents who live in Australia want me to buy a bicycle with a manufacturer installed child seat. I want to know if they're right that a baby seat installed after manufacture by a bicycle shop (I don't think we'd have the tools to it ourselves nor is it sensible) is not as good as manufacturer installed seat? Of course there are a lot of factors that could affect the installation but roughly speaking is there answer.

Here is the exact bicycle that my wife has: https://www.aeonbike.jp/products/2162

Here is an example bicycle with baby seat: https://www.aeonbike.jp/products/2152


texts: Help decoding a J.C. Higgins frame number on a vintage cruiser

texts: The serial is 502 46560 887408. The bike is complete, I may fix it up as a cruiser, or completely restore it depending on parts availability, but for now I'm trying to find out the basics. I can see a bracket on the head tube, perhaps it once had a tank?


texts: My rear brakes are wearing out very fast.  I am on my third set since Christmas (2 months). I have no idea why this is.  It is a rim brake.


texts: Looking for a first race worthy road bike - What should I look for?

texts:
I am a runner and have been getting into biking just to add some additional flavor to my workout schedule and racing.  I am wondering what I should look for when purchasing a new road bike.

Is the bike manufacturer the largest determiner?
Are the components what I should worry about?  If so should I only buy SRAM or is Shimano just as good? Are there other brands to consider?
Is there anything about the wheels that could set one road bike apart from another?
Other than a carbon frame is there anything else I should look for in the frame? (Yes, I understand that it should fit my body.)
What else should I consider when looking at buying a race worthy road bike?

Budget:  I plan on spending about US$3k or less.

Edit-  Just as additional information I bought a Specialized Tri-Cross that I use for commuting, rougher roads, pulling kids and joy rides.  I am looking at doing some 50/100 milers and a 550 mile relay so although unexperienced I want a good racing bike.  Also due to the spouse factor it is easier to buy one $2500 dollar bike then get a starter and upgrade latter especially since I already have an all around bike.


texts:
Next weekend I'll participate in a relay triathlon (1100 mts. swim, 7 kms. run and 13 kms. MTB). I'll be doing the bike section, which is the last. Bike needs to be at the boxes area an hour before the start of the race. I guess I'll start riding about 40 minutes from the start of the race. That's around 100+ minutes since I leave the bike at the box. What can I do to warm up during this time or to start at full power without needing to warm up? I thought about riding a few kms. before parking the bike at the boxes, would it be effective after such a long break?

Thanks in advance!


texts: How to reset my gears after the chain slips off?

texts:
I don’t know much about bikes so whenever my chain slips off I always just force it onto the cog I can get it on.
I think this has been messing my gears up because I’m having issues where Cycling in some gears will feel the same, or in one gear the chain kind of jumps around and makes pedalling very jerky, so that gear is unusable.
I thought maybe the gears are not correctly set upon the cogs. I though I could realign my chain so that the chain is on the correct cogs. But I can’t find much info on the web on how to do that so I think I may be searching for the wrong things. Can anyone help?


texts: Why do skinny tires require less pedal effort?

texts:
Everyone knows (citation needed) that (at fixed rim diameter) tyres with smaller section require less effort to move around (at least on a paved road).

TL; DR.
Why?

A bit of context.

I always thought this phenomenon is due to the size of the contact patch between each tyre and the road. Notably, the area of this patch decreases when you decrease the tyre cross section. [This assumes that a tyre with smaller cross section will have a higher minimum pressure, which is generally true]. Friction is proportional to the contact area, QED.

However, I recently considered that friction (as almost everyone knows) would generate a torque that causes the wheel to spin faster [note 1]. So I had to come up with an alternative explanation.
My best attempt is this.
If tyre A has a smaller cross section than tyre B, tyre A will have a higher manufacturer pressure than tyre B, and therefore will be less subject to deforming.
In terms of conservation of energy, deforming a tyre continuously requires a fair amount of energy, and it's here that our precious kinetic energy goes when we stop pedalling and our expensive toys (or in my actual case, inexpensive toy) come to a sad halt. So tyre A sucks less energy than tyre B, and therefore requires less effort.
How can we put this in terms of forces? There must be an asymmetry in the forces near the contact point, causing a torque that slows down the spin of the wheel. Can you describe this asymmetry?

[Note 1. Friction is a force applied at the contact patch, with direction opposite to the direction of motion. Therefore, friction generates a torque that spins the wheel faster. For instance, in absence of any friction, a wheel would slide seamlessly without rolling.]

[EDIT. I apolgise for the sloppy formulation of the question. I edited to add clarifications where necessary. I opted for adding text rather than removing because some comments would otherwise look out of place]


texts: What direction are the threads on Ultra Torque bearing cups?

texts: I need to remove the bottom bracket bearing cups from my 2010 Athena groupset. Do they both unscrew anti-clockwise, or is one side different (and which one)?


texts: Recommendations for clipless pedals that can be used with regular shoes

texts: Does anybody have recommendations for clipless pedals that can be used with regular shoes?  I only have 1 bike, but I use it enough that I think clipless pedals would offer a nice advantage.  However, I want to be able to just hop on my bike with any shoes, in the event that I'm just biking a short distance, and going to be walking around a lot.  I suppose I could get shoes that are more walking friendly, but I think it would suit me more to have pedals which accomodate both clipless and regular shoes.


texts: Stuck throttle open on specialized turbo electric pedal-assist bike

texts: The throttle is stuck open on my 2016 specialized turbo.  How do I adjust or fix?  Note there is no throttle switch, and is a torque pedal assist mechanism. (it senses how hard you are pedaling to turn on the motor). Is there a screw I can turn to adjust the sensor?  Where is the sensor located, is it in the axle/motor?  Will adjusting the tension on the derailer help?


texts: How to remove rechargable LED SI Urban integrated light strip from cannondale bad boy

texts:
I have the Cannondale Bad Boy and the LED lights are almost dead, I need to recharge it but can't figure out how to remove the lights from the handlebars to charge them.
Here are the type of lights on this bike: https://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Cannondale-Urban-Si-Integrated-LED-Light_p_2311.html

I undid the 2 screws and seems like it should just pull out but i can't get it, don't want to break the casing or have to take the handlebars apart, anybody know a trick to getting it out?

Thanks in advance!


texts: What is the diameter of Lizard Skins Logo and NorthShore grips?

texts:
Those two grips are thicker than usual grips, however so far I cannot find what is the diameter (external) of them (Dual Compound version for both). Maybe we have some owners of them, who would will posting such info here. Thank you in advance.

For reference:

http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-northshore-grip
http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-logo-grip


texts:
I have owned a dynamometric wrench for two years now, and I got it second-hand in the first place. I fear that relying on its indication could be even less accurate than tightening by intuition. For example, I know that oscilloscopes need to be tuned once per year.

How can I measure the accuracy and precision of my wrench? I have a tape measure and a low-end electronic scale (rated 45kg+-10g, but I have noticed deviations as much as 50g between measurements of 2kg parts), plus a wide range of inserts for the wrench. This is a 20Nm-100Nm piece of equipment.


texts: Is it safe to use painted unmachine rims with rim brakes?

texts: I have bought a Masi fixie riser that comes with painted unmachined rims and rim brakes.This does not seem safe.Is it?


texts: Where to get gear shifter for 31.8mm handle bars?

texts:
I'm based in the UK and have bought some new handlebars that are 31.8mm for a hybrid 8 gear bike.

My old handlebars were smaller in diameter so my old gear shifter won't fit. No gear shifters online actually say the diameter of the handlebars they're made for. Is there a standard diameter for mountain bikes and road bikes? Can someone link me to an example 8 gear shifter that will fit 31.8mm handlebar?

Any help really appreciated.


texts: New to bicycle riding. Questions about adjustments and upgrades

texts:
I just got my very first bicycle. At 30years old, I never ever rode a bicycle. I walked into a Walmart, bought the nicest looking mountain bike I could find, a 26" Havoc Men's Mountain Bike.

My first week was horrible. Trying to balance on a bicycle, falling off several times etc. Second week, I would almost die of exhaustion from riding 400meters.
Now, after about 6 weeks, I do about 5miles a day with ease.

I have now realized from a lot of the comments here and on YouTube that I was really using an entry level piece of metal. I have plans for a huge upgrade but while still learning to build endurance, understanding the little bits and pieces of increasing speed etc, any advice on what I can do right now to upgrade this present bicycle to make it more efficient? Anything I should consider doing?Anything I may have left out?  Any helpful tips etc.

Thanks.


texts:
I have a rather old frame that doesn't have threads on the rear rack braze-ons, and thus requires a nut. This nut makes contact with the chain if the chain is on the outer sprocket, so I'd like to tap out threads in my braze-on so the nut won't be necessary.

If anyone has experience with tapping new threads in a braze-on, could you give some instructions on how to do it properly?


texts: What's a good replacement for a Deore LX 3x10 front derailleur?

texts: I recently acquired a Novara Randonee 2014 that came with a Deore LX 44-32-22 crankset, a 10-speed 11-32 cassette, and a Deore LX front derailleur with a stuck and stripped H screw. I broke that screw with a misguided attempt to drill it out. The derailleur still shifts, but poorly. Uphill, when there's tension in the chain, it cannot drop the chain from the middle to the small chainring, nor can it lift the chain from the middle to the large chainring. On level ground it shifts OK. This is with a SRAM TT500 friction bar end shifter. My guess is that even if the H screw broke stuck at the correct limit -- so it does not affect the performance -- this derailleur must probably go because of its other shifting troubles. If I am wrong, I would be grateful for any advice about how to make the derailleur shift properly. And if I am right, what 3x10 front derailleur would do a better job with this crankset and shifter?


texts: What is this metal bar parallel to the frame?

texts:
I saw this at work the other day and I was completely baffled. This bicycle has an additional, adjustable metal bar that runs parallel to the upper part of the frame, between the seat and the handlebar mounts. It looks like a finished product including labels and whatnot. I didn't see any damage to the frame that I could tell.

Can someone identify this device and its function?


texts: How do you spot the left side pedal on egg beater pedals?

texts:
I've just got a new set of crank brothers egg beater pedals and I can't tell which pedal is for the left side, and which is for the right just from looking at them.  Is there an obvious way to tell without simply trying to screw them in?

Update: There isn't an obvious L and R that I (or another pair of eyes) could see.  The only text I could see was really fine print that mentioned the torque to put the pedals in.  I couldn't see anything in the instructions that appeared to say which one was which either.


texts: Rear tire wobbling and feels "tight." Is it likely to be axle issue or no?

texts:
I've noticed that my bike's rear tire has slowly been downgrading, and beginning to wobble more and more. I took no notice of it because it did not affect the bike riding at first, but slowly started to impact riding (such as making it harder to pedal/move the bike). My mistake was ignoring this far too long, and now the wheel barely spins and the bike can't be ridden at all. I looked at the tire and it does not appear to rub against anything, nor is the wheel improperly on -- so I thought the axle could be the issue. I'm thinking so because, if you grab the wheel and shake it, it moves far too much -- sort of like a 1.5 to 2 inch movement (and this is with the wheel tight and on the bike correctly). Also, the bike would slowly make screeching, ripping sounds before it reached this point. What should I look to?

I don't know if I should just take the axle out and play around with it, or look to other options.

Basically, the wheel doesn't appear to move when you pedal; and it seems to sort of get stuck as it rotates, and requires massive force to break past this before it just eventually, quickly does it again. Also, the tires wobbles far too much beyond the norm, even though the tire is on correctly.

I'm thinking there's something wrong with the axle or something that keeps the tire straight; and thinking something in that area is also making it "get stuck" or have trouble moving smoothly.

I can show a video of it, but I don't know if that's to be expected here or not.


texts: Is there a way to convert the Park PCS-12 to PCS-10?

texts:
I have the bench mount PCS-12 but am looking to convert it to a floor mount.  I haven't been able to find the base for the PCS-10, only the entire unit.  Any suggestions?

thanks


texts: Winter is here, what type of trainer should I get?

texts: Well, it started raining today and I'm not much of a road cycling in the rain type of guy. Given that this weather will last for a few months, I was wondering what type of trainer should I get. I would like something that works with my Garmin Edge 520. My rear tire cannot fit the little rubber Garmin tracker thingy, so should I try to get an Ant+ trainer? Do those even exist? If not, what are some decent recommendations that won't break the bank? Are there certain features I should look for?


texts: Why does my chain keep jumping off the front chainring on my 1x9?

texts: My chain has a tendency to frequently jump off the front chainring. I have a 1x9 so it's not a front derailleur issue. It generally happens when I hit something like the lip of a driveway or sidewalk at a crosswalk, which sucks when it pops off in the middle of crossing a busy highway in town. Could my chain be a bit too loose?


texts: I badly bent my rim going down a huge hill and bouncing all over the trail. I've managed to get the wheel much more true to the point where the wheel is ridable. However, due to the extent of the bend, the spokes on one side are really right and some on the other side really loose. There's still some buckle so I'd need to tighten up the tight spokes more to remove the buckle fully. Does the wheel need a few casual rides to allow the rim to move?


texts: Is there a spoke light that is ultrabright?

texts:
I love the setup this guy demos here as it is attention-grabbing and is visible from all directions, however I'm wondering what options I have with ultrabright spoke lights.

The description says they are testing the Serfas Thunderbolt. Can the Serfas Thunderbolt be securely mounted to spokes, or is the demo merely a party trick?


texts:
First, some context: I commute to work on a fixie and go for longer rides on weekends on a road bike.

I often find my legs get sore/tired, especially when I've been on a longer ride or have pushed the speed on my commute... sometimes it's so much fun I can't take it easy :)  My calves seem to be more affected than my thighs

My question is whether compression clothes are very helpful. I haven't tried any, but am quite interested. Also, would you recommend compression gear during the ride, or after riding, for recovery.


texts: Santa Cruz Chameleon tire and wheel choice

texts: I’m thinking about upgrading to a Santa Cruz Chameleon. The majority of the time I would be using it to bike to school. For the amount of times I actually go mountain biking, I can just change the tires each time. I was wondering if I would be able to put hybrid tires on this bike. Also, don’t ask why or judge, but would I also be able to put 26” wheels on the small size frame?


texts: Shimano hydraulic hose - BH90-SB compatible with BH90-J/JK

texts:
My problem, I have a complete M7000 (MTB) brake set that uses SM-BH90-SB hose, and now I want to connect a 105er BR-R7070 brake caliper that needs SM-BH90-JK-SSR or SM-BH90-J-SSR hose.

Are the two hoses compatible? I am aware that BH90-SB uses a banjo connector, obviously that need to go. Can I just cut it off, fix the pin and olive and connect it to the R7070? Anybody here done that?

PS: can pins/olives be reused (just in case I can get them out)?


texts: Bag for holding valuables on bike while parked?

texts:
I ride regularly in the city with my a few valuables with me. My purse, phone, keys, company ID card etc. I hate having a bag on me while ride so I am looking for a solution to have these few items in a bike bag, but also have them safe if I stop somewhere to run into  a shop or a cafe for 15 minutes.

My original idea was to look for a small saddle or top tube bag that is lockable and also safely locked to the frame, and I can simply leave it there. As it turns out there is no such thing! Or I just did not find it?

My second idea was to search for a similar bag, but which is easily detachable and I can take it with myself as a waist bag for example. Same story, I couldn't find anything like this on the market.

Do you know any bag that could work for me? Or do you have an alternate suggestion for my conundrum?

Thank you very much if you take the time to answer! Ride safe!
János


texts:
I just moved to London. They seem to have a decent bike culture but I just spoke with a letting agent about renting apartments and she said that most apartments don't allow bicycles inside and most streets don't allow bicycles chained outside. What do I do?! Or, to better fit the general nature of this site, what do people in London generally do with their bikes?

Only people who have private gardens ride bikes.
Bring the bike inside anyway. Maybe get a folding bike.
The letting agent is lying. There are definitely some flats that allow bikes.
None of the above.


texts: Slipping chain from lowest (largest diameter) cassette sprockets

texts:
I have a Decathlon RC500 road bike. It has 34/50 compact crankset in front and the rear cassette is 11/34 (11/13/15/17/19/21/24/28/32).

When I want to go into lowest gear, especially on uphill riding, the chain does not reach the 32 tooth sprocket at the back, from the 28 tooth sprocket, it keeps slipping down to the 24 tooth sprocket.

How do I fix this?


texts:
This may be a stupid and uncommon (definitely seems so) question. Also forgive me for potential etiquette violations, as this is my first one on bike stackexchange.
I'm thinking about buying a gravel bike (nukeproof digger comp 2020) which has the Shimano GRX 1x11 drivetrain. Having almost no experience with gravel bikes, I'm just trying to understand, whether it would at all be possible in the future to "upgrade" to 2x11 - should the need arise.
So consider this a thought experiment: what would be necessary for such a conversion and what are the potential problems/showstoppers?
Thanks!
p.s.
The rather scarce relevant posts here (see below) did not help me definitively. Also there are might be some GRX specifics

claud-butler-tandem-add-a-front-derailleur
Adding front derailleur vs upgrading the rear one on a (ladies) bicycle

I've also read several articles on extending 1x11 range with aftermarket cassettes and hardware, such as this excellent one on bikepacking.com and understand that something like that might very well be the (significantly easier if more limited) solution too


texts:
I don't know my bike's stock handlebar diameter. I am going to upgrade some parts, for handlebar I tried to read any information written on it but there is only it's brand name. Can you help me please?

EDIT: Sorry for my poor English. I am trying to mean the "diameter" by "width", like the cylinder here http://www.nordenexpress.com/images/packaging.gif (For example I thought- the drop bar I want to buy has a "length" of 44cm, not width. Sorry again)

My bike has a flat handlebar and I am willing to replace it with a drop bar. Drop bars I've found on online bike stores are mostly 31.8mm. I don't know how to measure the diameter of my flat bar, I don't have calipers. Even if I had calipers, I don't know where to measure; the middle of the bar is thicker, ends are thinner.

I am not sure about where is 31.8mm. Just thought maybe it is the diameter of the bar, am I right?

If a handlebar (like mine) is said to be 25.4, can you tell how we get the result 25.4? Measure the diameter? Radius? Periphery?


texts: Good fit vs. Best fit - Lower end of the fit range (Difference of 1 cm). Is it OK? or can this tiny difference still cause pains?

texts:
I want to buy a second hand Trek Cronus (Gary Fischer Collection) bike (50cms) for my wife. I am getting a good deal on it. My wife's height is 156cms. As per the Trek Sizing chart, the range of rider height for a 50cms bike is from 157cms to 165cms. So technically the perfect fit for 50cms looks like 161cms.

So, my query is that would a 1 cm difference (her height of 156cms vs fit starting from 157cms) matter in causing any kind of pains (knee, back etc.) for her in the long run for her? I would ideally like her to go for her perfect fit of 47cms Trek bike. However, this second hand carbon fiber bike with Shimano 105 components is priced at the same rate as a new Trek One series 1.1 with a Shimano Claris components. That's the main pull.

Also, on a side note, how is the Trek Cronus (Gary Fischer Collection) bike? I tried to read reviews. But I did not find many for this particular model as I found for the regular Domanes, Emondas etc.

I tried to search the site if a similar query had been posted i.e. with this close a fit (1 cm) difference. I did not find any. Hence my post.

Thanks to let me know.


texts: do all diamondback bmx bikes have a serial number on them?

texts: I have a diamondback bmx and am sure it is authentic however it doesn't have a serial number anywhere on the frame and certainly not where you would expect it to be ( between where the arm and the crankshaft attach.


texts: Anyone have Open Bars or similar on a Surly Cross Check or Straggler?

texts:
I read around the Internet that many people use a Cross-Check/Straggler as a basis for a relaxed-ish commuter bike. But I'm told by my LBS that running Open Bars or similar on one of those frames is at best missing the point and at worst will make the bike handle poorly.

Can anyone confirm or deny this from personal experience?


texts: New MTB makes it feel like too much weight on arms? How do I make it better?

texts:
My 10 year old montain mountain bike has quite an upright seating position and front tyre, which is what I think makes it very comfortable to ride for long periods of times.
Having recently bought a new mountain bike, with modern geometry and ridden several of my friends new mountain bikes with modern geometry as well, I noticed they all feel the same.  Wide handle bars, where you lean more forward when riding and it feels like there is slightly too much weight on your arms, which over time makes it them much more uncomfortable to ride than my old mountain bike.
I'm not sure what it is about these new MTB's but I am trying to figure out what I need to adjust to make my new MTB more comfortable.
How do I reduce the effect of too much weight on my arms? Seat up / down? Back / forward? etc.
EDIT: My new bike is size Medium and this is the geomtry table:

I normally try to keep the saddle as high as possible and I'm 5ft 10 tall.  My old bike has 26 inch tyres and this new one has 29's.


texts: What's the purpose of the boot on a v-brake?

texts: Just that, what's the purpose of the rubber boot on a v-brake?  How does it do its job?


texts:
I am having a problem with my rear derailleur. I installed as per instructions, adjusting the H and L limits to what I believe is proper. The problem I am having is that when I am in 7th gear, shifting down doesn't actually shift. The cable tightens, but it just pulls the derailleur back instead of sideways along to the next gear. I have tried both tightening and loosening the cable in various amounts. I also noticed that I can push the derailleur from side to side (as if it were changing gears) while the cable remains at the same tension.

As this is the first derailleur that I have installed myself, I really have no idea whats wrong. Did I install it wrong? Is it broken? I'd appreciate any help.

EDIT Added a newer video that hopefully shows the problem better.

Here's a video of the problem


texts: Weight distribution while cornering for maximum grip on road bike

texts: Road bike on tarmac. What should the optimal weight distribution between the front and the rear wheel be for optimal grip while cornering on a descent?


texts: Is it harder to ride a comfort bike on a paved trail than a hybrid?

texts:
If I am on a "normal" paved by trail, hills, and straights, not mountains, sunny weather, and I have two bikes, a comfort bike and a hybrid. Is one harder to ride than the other?  The distance will be about 10 miles, paved, mostly flat trail.

One reason I ask is that if two people ride together and one is on a comfort, the other on a hybrid, if the comfort is hard to pedal, ride, etc., I would never be able to stay together (I would have the hybrid.)

For the sake of argument, both are higher quality bikes, not big box.  Is there some reason a comfort bike is inherently harder to pedal?

This is an example of what I saw:

https://www.performancebike.com/shop/bikes-frames/path-pavement-bikes/comfort-bikes/tuesday-bikes-march-7-womens-pavement-bike-31-7312

and,

https://www.performancebike.com/shop/bikes-frames/path-pavement-bikes/comfort-bikes

"Beach Cruiser" was also a term used.


texts: My back wheel will no longer spin freely

texts:
im new to this site and don't know anything about how to repair bikes.
My Problem is
I put my bike into my shed (the shed is cold and damp) and never used it for 3 weeks, it was ok when I put it in but when I took it out to use it the back wheel has become very stiff, you're not able to spin it freely its just stiff. Im not sure where to start, is it the brakes or can it be something else ???

Any help would be great, the bike is less than a year old so not sure why this has happened.
Thanks

This is my bike


texts: Friction shifting 9 speeds using an 11 speed rear derailleur

texts: I am interested in running a 1 x 9 drivetrain using an 11-speed Shimano 105 R7000 rear derailleur. If I'm friction shifting 9 speeds, will using an 11-speed derailleur cause issues? Or is it as simple as setting the limit screws to the proper positions. Would I need to use an 11-speed chain because of the derailleur?


texts: Can I change chainring size on a dirt jump bike?

texts: I don't know the name of it but there is a part on single speed bikes. The gear? I think right where the crank is connected. Well on bmx bikes and especially dirt jumping bikes it is really small and if it is small then that means you have to pedal a lot more to go faster. Well can that gear part or whatever is connected to the crank be changed to a bigger single speed to pedal less? Sorry for not knowing the name guys please help though it's important before I buy this bike.


texts:
I'm looking for a pump at home to use with my high pressure (100-120 psi) road bike tires.  My bike has presta valves, but I would like to be able to use it on Schrader valves, should I get a bike with them.

Who has a floor pump that they like?


texts: Stop my front brake lever screws from vibrating out?

texts:
One of the most common maintenance tasks on my Mongoose Tyax Super is to tighten a small screw in my front brake level. It shakes loose both due to use, and from a habit I picked up riding in Cambodia, where I "tick tick tick" the level as a subtle alternative to ringing a bell when passing pedestrians.

I assume that I could use loctite or some tap/adhesive, but I'd still like to be able to remove/clean/replace this screw. I like to adjust it between downhill and commute (I like less travel and more give on downhill). Any tips? Cheap solutions, and retail solutions?


texts: What are the benefits of joining a team/club and when to join?

texts:
This is probably a stupid question and the answer is more or less subjective, but when should you join a team or club?

I've just started to take road cycling seriously and noticed on my rides there are many teams/clubs out riding where I live.

Is there normally a criteria for joining?

Right now I go on 30 mile rides and average around 13-14mph. That's somewhat pushing my limits. How far and fast should I be able to go to keep up with and consider joining one of these teams?

I will have to wait around 30 years to join the 50 and over club, but truth be told I probably couldn't keep up with them anyway lol. They are no joke where I live.


texts: Crown race for a fork with a straight 28.6mm steerer

texts: I have a fork with a 28.6mm steerer tube. It appears to be completely straight, with no flare at the bottom. I bought a bike with a damaged crown race. I bought a Jessica head set, but the crown race appears to expect a 30mm flare but my tube is 28.6 all the way. Can anyone suggest a solution?


texts: Why is 2nd largest rear cog making clicking noise?

texts:
I have constant clicking noise from the 2nd largest rear cog on my cycle. It starts as soon as I shift into the 2nd gear either from 1st or 3rd gear.

I have checked the following things:

Cable tension - all gear shifts are smooth and quick (both on stand and while riding).
Limit screws are fine.
I have cleaned/oiled the chain and wiped off excess lubricant.
Checked if any of the links are sticking/getting stuck to its adjacent link- they are not.
Visual inspection of teeth shows no excessive wear or bent teeth on any of the cogs.

I have been unsuccessful in trying to locate the problem. I would be grateful for any pointers that will help in troubleshooting this problem.
I am learning to fix my bike and would like to avoid taking it to LBS if possible.

Information: Cogs are 9 speed with Deore derailleur.


texts: Sensible shifting on a triple chainring?

texts:
I have found from experience on my 3x7 MTB that shifting a triple front chainring is useful if you do the following:  I tend to use only the first 3 cogs in the smallest chainring so that is 3 very low gears for hills, grass, or just low speed stuff.  I can use all 7 cogs in the middle chainring but tend to avoid the largest cog so that is 6 more gears.  Then for downhill or just for slow cadence, I can use the 2 smallest cogs on the large chainring so that is 2 more gears.  So that is 3+6+2 = 11 usable gears.  What is particularly nice about this is the shift sequence (using S,M,L for chainring with S being small (granny), M being middle, and L being largest, and using 1 thru 7 for cogs with 1 being largest diameter cog and 7 being smallest) is (S1, S2, S3, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, M7, L6, L7), is that there is never a shift to a gear more than 1 cog or chainring away.  Going from S3 to M2 for example and also from M7 to L6.  So this is basically a poor mans 11 speed bike but it works and fairly well too (from actual riding experience).

So my question is why do people tend to favor a 1x11 as superior to a 3x7 where only 11 of those are used as a described here?  Is it because the 1x11 shifts better and with less complexity?  How about the joy of doing successful double gear shift simultaneously that is fun.  Also with the triple you can get very tall and very short gears without having to resort to very large and very small cogs, both of which cause some problems.  Also shifting the 3x7 as I described here should have better chain alignment on average (assuming it has chainrings aligned with cogs 2,4 and 6 and the 1x11 has the single chainring aligned with cog 6).

Some answers here talk about ground clearance.  My largest chainring on my triple is 42 which is less teeth than the larger chainring on some doubles.

Also to make my triple chainring shift sequence even easier, the rider can shift only 9 gears this order (L1, L2, L3, M3, M4, M5, M6, M7, H7).  A biker can select front chainring sizes such that the shift from L3 to M3 and the shift from M7 to H7 is moderate (10% for example, such as 40 to 44 teeth).  If I had an 8 speed freewheel I could get 10 progressive gears which would be good.


texts: Could a slightly bent rear mech cable be the cause of poor shifting?

texts:
I have trouble indexing my SRAM Apex 1x drivetrain. If I get it to shift correctly at one end of the cassette, it doesn't shift so well at the other end.
Sometimes I have to click multiple times at the DoubleTap shifter to make the rear mech move enough for the chain to jump to the next sprocket.

I have tried the usual, first of all the chain tension barrel adjuster at the rear of the mech. Also, I have tried removing the cable from the mech, changing the tension.
And fiddling with the B and limit screws. To no avail.

For context, the drivetrain has recently been moved from a few years old bike to a brand new frame by a seasoned bike mechanic.

Could a slightly bent rear mech cable under the BB be the cause of the poor shifting (see photo)?

And if so, can something be done about it - other than replacing the cable?


texts: What type of chain lube is best for winter riding?

texts:
I've read a lot about wet vs dry chain lube and there doesn't seem a definitive answer on whether to use wet or dry chain lube in the winter. Some forums are full of people saying they only use dry lube because it doesn't wash off as easy, then other forums are full of people saying the opposite, for the opposite reason!

What type of chain lube is best for winter riding (water, gritted roads etc)


texts:
Hi I got a used bike and my experience with bikes is very limited. The tires and tubes are all broken so I need to get new ones. I found these tires: http://www.fahrrad.de/continental-speed-king-set-26-zoll-draht-362100.html

and I found these tubes for the tires: http://www.fahrrad.de/fahrradteile/reifen-schlaeuche/rcp-fahrradschlauch-26-zoll-universal/285443.html?eqrecqid=be78e9d1-f097-11e3-804f-c8600056a33a

but when I select the tubes the website asks me for the kind of valves I need. How to select that? Should I select the valves according to a criteria or should I get any valves?


texts: Installing Schwinn Vestige frame LED cable

texts:
I read a post (Daniel and Jennifer) from a couple of years ago explaining that the Vestige frame LED should be replaced if it is no longer working.  Thanks for that. Now, I'm seeking tips, a guide or a manual on how to install the new light string so it will work properly.  Mine is not. Dynamo has been tested and works fine.

I do a lot of bike repairs but this one is a big challenge.


texts:
Well, I am new to road biking and I got my first flat yesterday. I was going to go for a ride and the front tire was completely flat, so I popped it off and went to patch it. I found the hole, it was on the rim-side, and I noticed that the rim tape had slipped off a little and the spoke hole was slightly exposed, so I pushed the tape back to position, patched the hole, and pumped the tire back up.

As I was pumping it up the patch blew out. So I went back and tried to stick another patch on, and it blew out too. I ended up going through about six patches before I got one that 'worked.' I let it sit a couple hours and it was holding pressure just fine. After about 4 hours I was going to go for a bike ride and it was completely flat again.

I took the tube off again and there was a wrinkle that formed in the patch where the air is coming out. I checked the rim tape and it was fine, none of the spoke hole where sticking out. My current theory is that the tube is conforming to the shape of the rim on the inside, right where the patch is, and forcing the patch to wrinkle and inevitably blow out.

I am completely at a loss as to what to do here. I've patched tires on my mountain bikes many times and have never had this much trouble. I don't want to get a new tube, I have only like 60 miles on this tube. Should I just try slapping another patch over this patch's wrinkle and hope for the best or should I just start from scratch with a new tube and rim tape?

Thanks.


texts: Schrader tubes in Presta configured Rims?

texts: My 26" mtb rims support presta sized tube stems, however can I drill the diameter of the holes in the rims bigger in order to support Schrader stemmed tubes? what is the proper way to do this, is there a kit?


texts:
My bought-as-2nd-hand bikes have plastic fender-attachements which tend to break. When they break, the fender starts to make a lot of annoying high-pitched sound. So which fenders do you recommend to replace the plastic junk?

Please, do not interpret me wrong, the fenders can be plastic but the attachment-things must be designed the right way. I like the design by SKS in their Bluemells Matt fenders but not wanting to pay extra for the aluminum and branding, have used many plastic-mixture with proper attachments and they have never failed me (now not having the bikes at the hand). Not sure but perhaps price-worthy product, Sunny Wheels, but unknown brand -- cannot get it though. So which fenders are long-lasting price-worthy? 28"
wheels.

[Update]

This question has strayed off-topic due to changes by different users and partly due to my ignorance, sorry about that. The main point is not product recommendations. I am looking for timeless/intrinsic tips to find/maintain/control/(or buy if you can justify properly) fenders. Before you say "XYZ, you are changing question.", no I am not:
the junk description is not necessarily junk, it is to some extent in the eye of the beholder.


texts: Tips for improving commute efficiency/comfort?

texts:
I'm not "a cyclist", but I've been riding to work for 15 minutes or so each way almost every day for the last three years. I've recently moved and am now 30 minutes away and I find that length of ride to be a qualitative change.

I have a Van Moof 5.1 retrofitted with an SRAM Automatix and although it's heavy, it's very practical and I'm not interested in getting a lighter bike or going for clipless pedals. But are there any other tips for increasing my efficiency and comfort on my daily commute?

I've had to start wearing cycling shorts (because... ouch!) but is there any other equipment, technique or training that might be a quick win?


texts:
I have a Tomasso Sterrata.

I love the bike, but I don't love the paint job.

I think I would like the paint job more if it weren't so glossy. (This year's model has a matte finish of course, but I have last year's model.)

What can I do to give it a more matte finish without covering up the existing color and decals?


texts:
I have a roadbike with a 73mm BB shell and I recently bought a Tiagra compact crankset that has a 110mm bolt circle length. However, I can't get enough of it to come out the other side to properly attach the left arm of the crank.

This is really upsetting because, as far as I can tell, Shimano only makes 110mm length cranks for compact (double) chainrings. The only solution I see is getting a new triple crankset for about €100 and this would mean I have to change my STI shifters and possibly the front derailleur as well... Are there any other options?

EDIT:
You are right i was confusing BCD with spindle length, the problem is that the 110mm spindle wont come out enough to attach the left arm, triple cranksets do have slightly longer spindles tough.


texts: Panasonic/Tange brake cable guide removal and replacement

texts:
As someone who has never had a bike with internal brake cable routing (in this case through the top tube), I bought an '87 Panasonic DX 3500 bike for restoration.

The frame as well as many of the components are made by Tange, a Japanese manufacturer.

Before removing rust and touching-up the paint, I am going to strip the frame entirely and that would include the black plastic guides the brake cable enters and exits the top tube through. (BB and headset need replacement, so I would have stripped the frame nonetheless.)

The outer cable is routed through said guides; pulling it on each side makes it move on the other side as well, which means and the guides are attached on the top tube like shown on the photo below:

Having broken hard-to-replace plastic components before, I really don't want to use any force before being sure that's the only way to do this.

I would expect there to be a release pin on the cable guides, but I haven't found any.

Does anyone have an idea about how to remove the cable guides — and in case of emergency, knows how to find a new replacement or if they are non-removable, even for maintenance?


texts: Disk brake and wheel is moving: is my fork too long?

texts:
In the  links I gave below, the website is in French but you can change the language.
Following this thread
I bought new bike components to build my own bike. In particular I bought Surly Steamroller frame and a this Surly fork. I have a QR system to attach this wheel because I wanted to install a disk brake system: disc, brakes.
When I am braking, the front wheel is moving on the left of the fork.
I tried to change the QR attach, tighten it very hard but same problem.
Is it possible I have an incompatibility issue especially between the fork and the frame?

edit: I followed the remarks from here and I tightened the QR even more but same effect.
Could it be my fork that is moving and not my wheel?
I notice that the spacers on top of my headset may be too long (4.5 cm of spacer) and could cause the fork to move, is it relevant? I think I will shorten my fork removing spacers.


texts: Do I have to stop pedaling when shifting up the front chainring?

texts:
If I keep pedaling when shifting up the front chainring, it would fail. Moreover, the chain keeps rubbing with the chainrings and produces many noises. Thus, I have to stop pedaling for around one second when shifting up.

My bike comes with a 'Shimano Sora, band-type 34.9mm' front derailleur. The chainrings are 50/34T.

I am new to road bike and don't know whether it is normal. I am not sure does it indicate wearing or misconfiguration. If it is normal, is the practice of stop pedaling the best technique when shifting up?


texts:
I have a Samsung S Advance smartphone, and I want to mount it on my racing bike. The only bike mounts I can find are either iphone mounts, or a few universal bike mounts, but these are all too small to fit on a racing bike's handlebars or stem. (appr. 4cm in diameter).

I'm a good-weather biker, so I don't need a water-proof case or bag, just a mount, and preferably as small as possible.

I've tried strapping my phone to the stem with elastic straps, which worked, but I'm afraid the vibrations will damage the phone, or that it might fall off.

Any tips are appreciated!


texts:
I have a bike which is about a year old.  I went to ride it yesterday and saw the back wheel wobbling.

Is it a major problem or a easy fix?

Please help.


texts:
I just bought a used 2016 Specialized Diverge Pro. The guy that sold it to me told me that he'd recommend replacing the bearings in the rear hub.

I believe the free hub is an FH-6800 (Ultegra). Any thoughts on rebuilding versus just buying a new one?

Also, if I do buy a new one do I need to worry about the thru-axle size? I can't seem to find a definitive source for Diverge Pro thru-axle sizes and am concerned about buying the wrong hub.

Thanks!


texts: What should I do with my crank/bottom bracket?

texts:
I just got this mountain bike almost 3 weeks ago. I took it for a long ride(120km back and forth). We encountered heavy rain during our ride, we were riding on a highway back then, there's flood water flowing everywhere as you would imagine but not enough to submerge the bottom bracket.

Everything is perfect until the next day. I took the bike for a spin, I felt something inside bottom bracket snapping. I immediately inspected the crank to see if its loose but its not. I then moved on investigating on the pedal, as it may give this feel as well but its not.

I really think this has something to do with the bottom bracket. I then took it back to the bike shop I purchased is from to be checked. What I was thinking is flood water went in and affected the performance of the bottom bracket, I'm thinking of asking them to repack my bottom bracket however. The shop mechanic won't do it, he told me that its too soon for a bottom bracket repack. The snap that I feel inside the bottom bracket is not extreme, as a matter of fact you wont feel it if you don't pay attention to it.

Its just irritating for me specially if I'm not experiencing anything like that before the long ride. If you shake the crank its rock solid. What should I do? I'm using Trinx XC3 treker, not top of the line but high quality.


texts: How can I mitigate the risk of public urination charges on long rides?

texts:
Qualifying offenses for the sex offender registry
can include public urination. Though the chance may be small, the potential consequences are severe. Unfortunately, bladders are apparently designed in ignorance of these laws. A few obvious solutions, such as intentionally becoming dehydrated or only riding in urban settings, are impractical.

How can cyclists avoid becoming sex offenders when nature calls on long rides?


texts:
I've gone through four five frames in the last decade or so, all from different manufacturers, all steel but both lugged and welded both steel and aluminium. Every one of them has eventually developed a crack, and the steel ones have been repaired and then re-developed more cracks until I give up and get a new one.

It's usually on the seat tube down near the bottom bracket, but once on the down tube near the headset, and once twice on the chainstay.

I generally just use the bike for commuting (~150k / week) and occasional weekend riding - all on the road. I've been on my mountain bike for the last couple of years, but I miss my skinny tyres and I'm thinking of getting a new road bike. So is there anyhing I can do to make it last longer than a couple of years or should I give up and just stick to mountain bikes?

Does this point to there being something wrong with the way I ride?
Do you think doing track stands at lights would exacerbate the problem?

Edit: Here's a list of the manufacturers whose frames I've broken:

City Cycles Sydney (steel, unknown origin, but it was really nice)
Cecil Walker Melbourne frame (steel, Ken Evans, a well-respected local framebuilder, custom fit for me, again, very nice)
KHS (steel, Korea, kinda cheap and nasty)
Kona (aluminium, Taiwan(?))
Soma Doublecross (steel, America, from the weight of it I thought it would last, but no).

Seems I don't buy bikes, I rent them.


texts: Can hanger extender be used as replaceable hanger?

texts:
One advantage of replaceable hanger for rear derailleur is that you can replace it (opposite to fixed hanger). I have fixed hanger (or fixed frame) and although it is a steel frame I started wondering if I could add hanger extender as a protection tool.

One point I can see it might fail to protect anything that extender is pretty short (comparing to hanger), it is more solid and there is no really a point where it could bend.

So would it be an overkill (over-protection) and it won't protect anything or is it actually a good idea?


texts:
Last 20 mm of my new Fox 32 Talas 29" 130mm 2013 fork is not possible to reach. It gets quickly hard before the full travel. It is ridden for 150 km so far. Tested both on trail (hitting rocks on hard descents, yet no jumps from 2m or so) and statically.

I've heard the Talas is quite a progressive trail fork but I would describe this behaviour rather as an edge than progressive.

Without an air pressure, the full travel is possible to get (with squelching sound at the end) but as the pressure goes up the raising edge is killing the end.

With very low pressure of 50 PSI the edge is still almost at the end
With pressure of 75 PSI (optimum for my 80 kg) the last 20mm is
just unreachable (neither on trail nor by pressing down hard)
Behaviour at pressures around 65-85 is similar.

The fork is mounted on Specialized StumpJumper FSR Elite.

Is it an error or a „feature“?
Will it get better over time?
Is it possible to set it up? E. g. by a tuning in a service centre. Or is that edge just a design not possible to tune?


texts: Lock ring won't reattach on bottom bracket

texts:
I purchased a road bike and the lock ring wasn't attached, it just hangs loosely on this spindle:

It doesn't seem to reattach by screwing it in like one would expect. I tried screwing it in either direction and it simply doesn't catch. How do I reattach this ring, and what are the consequences of leaving it unattached?


texts: Function of colored tabs on SPD-SL Cleats

texts:
What are the function of the colored tabs on the SPD-SL cleats?

If they wear through to the black, Shimano recommends their replacement.

In my own case, the outboard side of the colored pads are worn down, but not the front or the inboard side.  To me, the function of the front is obvious, it is what actually clips you in.  However the sides are a bit of a mystery.

Shimano also says that if you have trouble clipping in or out, or staying clipped in then you should replace the cleats.  I have had no such troubles despite the pads being worn down.


texts: Bent shimano 12 speed slx m7100 rear derailleur. Cause?

texts: Rear derailleur (mileage: 600 miles) simply bent during my ride (I didn't crash and didn't notice something hitting rear mech). Bend is significant. It seems to me that the derailleur cage is bent, not the hanger. I also noticed that the clutch needs oil / replacement. I know that replacing the derailleur is the only solution (if the hanger is really straight). I am trying to spot a cause of this issue for future reference. What could have caused this bend? Worn clutch? Wrong chain line?


texts: Are there better tires for heavy riders?

texts: I have upgraded the backwheel on my hybrid bike to one suitable for a 285 pound rider. Are there tires suited for 285 pound (130 kg) riders?


texts:
I like to start cycling again but I have a steep hill to arrive at home so I would like to put a 42 teeth. I have an Ideal mountain bike model hillmaster with a 9 speed cassette. All videos on you tube show that I cannot install a 42 teeth on my 9 speed. Can I put the 42 teeth instead of the 32 teeth.

Thanks all,


texts:
is it possible to fit gravel tires for Cannondale CAAD 9? If yes then can you please suggest some good ones.
The bike looks very similar to the one in the picture.
Thank you in advance.


texts: Change bike fit to reduce amount I "lift up" on my pedals

texts:
It's folklore than a benefit of clipless pedals is that you can generate power while pulling your foot "up" as well as pushing it "down". I've noticed that under very particular circumstances (while on an indoor trainer, in non-ERG mode, on a climb) that I've started having slight pain which is easiest explained by this point.
Note that this pain has only shown up in these circumstances (which I can easily avoid) and I've always stopped immediately when I noticed it (and it did not linger after that). This is to say that this is a rather minor medical issue, so I'm unlikely to schedule an appointment over it during the pandemic. This means that my options are either:

Try to fix it myself (likely via adjusting bike fit)
Only ride outside/in ERG mode during the pandemic

Either one of these seems fine, I just thought I'd ask for advice about the first before jumping to the second.
In particular, I've been having some pain (roughly) in this region of my left foot:

People other places online say that this part of your foot is responsible for lifting up your toes. I suspect that poor bike fit (and poor pedaling form) is causing me to try to do precisely this. Are there modifications that I could make to my bike to make this movement less likely/"encouraged"?


texts:
I am trying to figure out if I need a 23" or a 19" support bar to install a western saddle for my mothers trike.  Below is a picture of the measurement from the frame mount to the old seat.  I estimate I will have to lower the seat by two inches to accommodate the new style.

Can someone provide  guidance on how to figure out the right size before I order?

The bike has 24" wheels...

This 19" bar or the 23" model? I could not add the 23" model picture because of reputation point limitation...


texts:
I've been searching for the answer to this for a while now and still none the wiser so trying on here...

I've recently bought a second hand hub dynamo and am looking to get some used lights to go with it. I looking for a front light with a switch and standlight function. My question is, do I need a rear light with standlight or not? Logically I think not but can't find any confirmation anywhere.

Thanks in advance...


texts:
When I try to pump my bike tires (Dunlop valves), the valves resist letting air in. It's as if I'm trying to pump air through a blocked valve. If I push really hard and I have a lucky day, something inside gives way and the valve starts working normally, inflating the tire.

Some weeks later, the problem is back to square one and I have to perform the procedure again. I have tried at least three different pump brands. Outside temperature is around 10 degrees Celsius. My hardware is not very old, one or two years, and I have 4 tires with this problem.

Is there something simple I can do to remedy the problem? I'd like to avoid replacing inner tubes and valves if possible.


texts: Why would anyone steal a bike computer off of a bike?

texts:
Lights can be re-used easily, but a bike computer... they would need to setup their own rigging for the wires and the magnets, that alone would cost them money and time, and who's going to buy from them? That person well inevitably buy cheap, because of the illegitimacy, so maybe $10 or $20.

It plain doesn't seem worth it, so I must be missing something, or these things are being stolen for the joy of stealing.

Is there any value in stolen bike computers? If so how?


texts: My new bicycle skids laterally, especially in the wet; what can I do about it?

texts:
My new bicycle is a new regular road bicycle (not specialist) with puncture tough tyres. The bicycle is fine otherwise but a bit rough on all the crappy pedestrian path elements in Japan like kerbs. The pedestrian path is all bitumen with various levels of embedded gravel.

It is not a braking problem- it doesn't skid forward. Turning at speed and manoeuvring (probably on a metal culvert) makes it skid sideways when wet and much less often in dry conditions. It is just a scary problem but seemingly not dangerous.

I have bad joints and back. When I put the old bicycle to the right height for effective riding, it hurts my lower back so I don't think changing my form is sensible.

Can I modify the bike to reduce or eliminate this problem?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  What is the deal with oval chainrings?

I know that eliptical chainrings have been around for a long time and their use seems to have peaked back in the 70's & 80's.  I recently saw a professional rider using them in the TDF and I started thinking...

Is there any empirical data that supports or refutes the claim that eliptical chainrings provide more power output with less muscle fatigue?


texts: Roads that look uphill feel flat and flat looking roads feel uphill. Possible causes?

texts:
There's a route I usually do that has some specific parts that look uphill but ride and feel as flat, and some parts that look flat but feel as uphill.

Besides this being an optical illusion, which is my pet theory so far, are there any other possible causes for this phenomenon, like type of road, for example?


texts:
I just bought a new Clarks CFR-06 rotor to try to improve my crappy Tektro Auriga, but it seems that I made another bad choice. After just a couple of minutes of trials, I noticed that the pads are rubbing "too low" (3 mm) as you can see in the photo. Do I need to put some washer between the caliper and the adapter, or this is just fine?
Thanks


texts:
I've read that the chainring is that spikey gear wheel at the bike's pedals that the chain egages with.

The teeth on that chainring are so worn on my bike that the chain jumps off depite adjusting the derailleur.

The teeth of the chainring at the back wheel don't seem as worn, although this answer says they wear faster.

When replacing the chainring, it seems I should purchase:

Crankset
Chain
Chain adjuster tool

Are there other parts that should be changed at the same time?

Here are three photos of different parts of the chainring:


texts: New rear wheel to 8-speed Shimano Citybike, don't know what to look for

texts:
My current rear wheel wont rotate around the hub anymore, so I need a replacement. I don't know what to look for, but I have this info:

Bike is an Avenue Airbase, dont know how old, but more than 3 years.

135mm hub spacing between rear forks.

28inch wheel with 25mm tire.

8 Shimano gears.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Waka2WUs3RybQXbL7

Also: What do I need to take apart the wheel and check the bearings(Drum brake)?

Thanks :)


texts: How much air pressure for dt swiss m3 shock

texts: Where can I find the air pressure/weight guide for DT Swiss shocks? Or do all shocks have similar guidelines as far as pressure and rider weight goes?


texts: Older Shimano Ultegra Shifter compatibility

texts: I have an older Shimano Ultegra Shifter that broke, and I am wondering how I can know what shifters are compatible with the gear set as a replacement? My broken shifter is on the right side and is a Shimano Ultegra ST-6510 9-speed. Are current generation Shimano 9-speeds backwards compatible with my older gear set? I've looked at this Sora shifter as a possible replacement. I am not so concerned about weight or performance and am only hoping to get a couple more years out of my older bike.


texts: Handlebar-mounted "turn indicator" that can pair with a smartphone for turn-by-turn GPS navigation

texts:
So far I've been using my Android smartphone and a combination of Strava and Google Maps for navigating/recording my routes. This works reasonably well, but as I've been going on longer and longer rides I'm getting fed up with having to take my phone out of my pocket to check whether I've missed my turning.

I've tried mounting my phone on my handlebars, but this isn't a great solution for several reasons:

It's bulky and vulnerable to getting smashed in a crash
The battery quickly runs flat if I leave the display on for navigation
It's hard to read the display in bright sunlight

I've looked at various cycling GPS units which seem to mainly fall into two categories:

Small, relatively cheap units that record performance stats (distance, speed etc.) but don't offer any navigation functionality. I'm not really interested in these features since I can already record most of the information I want using my phone.
Bigger, more expensive units with colour screens that offer route planning and turn-by-turn navigation. My phone already has a nice big color touchscreen as well as a GPS receiver so I find it hard to justify spending ~£200+ on one of these.

All I want is a small, dedicated "turn indicator" that I can mount on my handlebars and pair with my phone (perhaps over Bluetooth).

So far the closest thing I've found is the Schwinn CycleNav. However there are lots of angry reviews on Amazon claiming that the app is no longer supported on current versions of Android/iOS. If so then this rules it out completely for me.

By far the nicest-looking "turn indicator" solution I've seen so far is on the Hammerhead. It's reasonably priced for a cycling GPS unit, although I still feel like buying another GPS receiver would be overkill. I also have some reservations about their Android app, which has some quite poor reviews.

There also seem to be a few relevant products at the crowdfunding stage. In particular Beeline comes close to the idea of a dedicated turn indicator. However it doesn't actually do proper turn-by-turn navigation - all it gives you is the bearing and distance to your destination, which is no good for me.

I'm sure I can't be the only one looking for a solution along these lines. Does anyone have experience with the options I mentioned above, or any other recommendations?


texts: Protocol for slipstreaming another cyclist?

texts:
I have a nice 12 km commute where lots of different bicyclers travel. The entire stretch is only for pedestrians&bicycles, no cars to worry about.

I ride a regular old 5-speed bike (not a racing bicycle or mountain bike), but I'm a very fast biker compared to the general bike traffic I see (average 25-30 km/h). I'm only overtaken by people on electrobikes, and by fanatics (all the right gear, but no bell because it weighs 12 grams?).

It might be interesting to ride closely behind someone whose speed matches mine, but what's the protocol for doing this, apart from road safety concerns? Should I address people first, ask their permission? Or do I just approach from behind and stay close to them, without specifically indicating that I'm there?

At my speed, I won't be stalking a granny -- it would probably only ever be a lone hobby race cyclist here or there. Note that I am steering clear of team bicyclists; they probably have their own patterns that I don't want to interfere with.

I've noted someone following me a few times (without any indication) but it doesn't bother me because people who can keep up with me usually overtake me after a while anyway, so at best I've given them a moment's pause. As long as they don't crash me, they're welcome.

Add-on question:
It's clearly more polite to take turns leading, but does it cost you more energy when someone is following you, compared to cycling alone?


texts: Is it a good idea to buy second hand bike model that has been discontinued?

texts:
I am a new rider looking for a road bike.  I found a deal to buy second hand 2017 Orbea Avant M40 size 51 for $800.  I see that this model is discontinued by Orbea. Will it be a problem to find parts should I need some repairs done in near future?

My last bike was Diamondback Calico - Aluminum frame. I had problem going up on steep hills. At max I have rode a bike for 20 miles in one ride, and my average in the summer would be anywhere from 10 to 25 miles.  This year planning to ride for a 40 miles ride.