texts:
I've just, for the first time, finished servicing the hubs on my bicycle. They are of the cup & cone type (Shimano). The cones of the front hub where pitted so I got them replaced, along with the bearing balls. The cups still looked smooth. I've packed them with a generous amount of grease and adjusted them for minimal play when out of the fork / no play when the QR is closed.

When I turn the axle by hand it feels smooth. However, with the front wheel installed, when I lift the front and give the wheel a spin, there is some clicking/scratching noise. It only seems to be present when running at a certain speed. My guess is these are the bearings touching each other? Is this normal?


texts:
I have a cyclops fluid trainer, and for several months each year I only ride on the trainer. Every time I hook the bike up to the trainer, the trainer bends to accommodate the bike. Is it better for the bike and the trainer (overall) to leave the bike on the trainer for several months at a time or take it off the trainer everyday after my workout?

Here is a video of the bike being placed into the trainer: skip to the 1min,20sec mark.

Releasing the pressure between the tire and the roller daily is a no-brainer.


texts: Swap Bottom Bracket bearings or replace entire bottom bracket?

texts:
I've recently acquired a 2007 Specialized Allez. As I was dismantling the bike for service, I discovered that the bottom bracket bearings are in rough shape. They aren't smooth at all. I took apart the bottom bracket cartridge and I've pulled out the sealed bearings.

Is it typical to replace bottom bracket bearings? Or do people usually just replace the entire bottom bracket cartridge all together? Looking on sites like Performance Bike, they don't seem to carry bearings at all.

Also, if I decided to replace just the bearings, do I simply need to find a good quality set of bearings that are the same size as mine (in this case 15mm x 32mm x 9mm)?


texts: Around the rim of my Bontrager tires, which are about 6 months old, there are small thin rubber thread-like fibers coming off. The brakes do not rub. I ride a Trek 7100 on asphalt roads, with several tall hills I ride down. Do I need to replace the tires?


texts: I know what gears do what (what makes pedaling easier or harder), but my sister and I are having a debate on when exactly to shift. I think I read somewhere that it is better to shift when coasting or lightly pedaling and before the obstacle you are shifting to do better on. Sadly, I can't find the source so I have no proof to show her, she believes it doesn't matter when you shift it but it is better to do it while pedaling. Does anyone know which is correct?


texts: Why are foot-long pedals not widely used?

texts:
A lot of effort and resources go into making cycling shoes stiff, presumably to keep the foot in a suitable shape and spread the force across the sole.

It seems like it would be possible to achieve a similar effect by making pedals long enough to support the entire foot, with or without a retention system. However I'm not aware of the existence of any pedals like that, so I suppose there must be strong disadvantages to them that I haven't thought about.


texts: When commuting with a bike I usually stick to the right lane (I am based in the USA). When approaching a right turn only lane while biking, should I stay in the turn lane and signal to the car behind me that you I'm going forward rather than turning right, or should I move to the center or left lane?


texts: Adaptation of Regular Bike to Disc brakes

texts:
I have a DUNLOP SPORT DS 26 Bike. Here is a similar bike:

I would like to add hydraulic disc brakes at both front and rear.

But the frame or forks do not have anywhere I can mount the Calipers, and the wheels I have are regular ones.

How can I convert my regular wheels to adapt to the Disc brake wheels, and how can I mount the calipers to the frame?


texts: 100 mm front hub, 94 mm fork dropouts, options?

texts:
Simple as that. I thought I could He-Man the fork to fit the hub as it's only 3 mm on either side. Looks like it requires a bit of force and I'm concerned about breaking something in the long-run; either the frame or the hub.

I have a Origin8/Formula front hub and an old steel frame (1970s or so) that seems to be in decent condition.

Which option is best: reduce the hub spacing to 94 mm or widen the fork to 100 mm? And in either case, what's the way to go about it?

The front hub is the top one in the picture below.

EDIT
Turns out my problem wasn't spreading the fork. It was the fact that the axle diameter was too large for the fork dropouts. I filed the trailing edge of the dropouts and tried again to spread the fork to accommodate the hub. It fit without issue. Pictures below.


texts: Reason behind the Tour Down Under "People's Choice Classic"

texts:
The Tour Down Under (TDU) is technically a 6-stage race, but the day before is the "People's Choice Classic",

  The People's Choice Classic, also known as the Down Under Classic, is a single day road cycling race held in Adelaide, South Australia, Australia. The race is the official warm-up for the Tour Down Under. Founded in 2006, the race exists as a men's only competition

The race is the day before Stage 1, but it doesn't have any bearing on the Tour Down Under, and riders don't earn UCI points.

Is there any specific reason this is not part of the TDU?

My first thought was it's good for attendance/marketing/etc for "the race" to both start and finish on a weekend (and both take place very near the city-centre), but there might be some UCI rule preventing a 7-stage.. but this theory is completely unfounded (I couldn't find anything to this effect in the UCI rules/race-guidelines)


texts:
I found a crack under my handlebar and I'm thinking of buying a riser bar and a shorter stem for my mountain bike. is it a good idea? I don't ride on trails, not because i don't want to, I just don't have the chance to.Is it necessary to buy a riser bar & a short stem on a XC hardtail?

Not sure if it's necessary but here is a picture of my bike I found on the internet.


texts:
Based on the Park Tool guide on how to wrap drop handlebars, the bottom of the handlebars should have the tapes installed with an outward direction and reversing directions when it's on its way to the top.

The thing is, the guide is for drop handlebars with brakes/shifters in front. So I'm wondering, how does one reverse the tape direction if there are no brakes/shifters in front? Like say for a fixed gear where the brake is mounted on top of the bar?


texts: If many bottom-outs are happening, should air pressure or compression damping be increased?

texts:
I know springs exert a force proportional to displacement from a steady-state position. On the other hand, an ideal damper exerts a force proportional to the speed of the object.

The procedure to tune an air fork that I have been taught is:

Set positive chamber air pressure according to a table with rider weights or by measuring sag.
Set compression damping according to current trail conditions each time. Aim for the least amount of damping which still avoids repetitive bottom-outs during the ride.

But I still struggle to understand why to increase compression damping instead of positive chamber pressure. What would be the difference?


texts: Is it normal that I find it hard to skid?

texts:
I'm big on bicycle repairs and whipping vintage bikes back into shape.
As such, I took an old Raleigh road bike frame and made it into my very first fixed gear bike.
So far, loving the experience of ridind fixed gear, however I've been trying to learn to skid for a few weeks now and I can't seem to do it, I push really hard but the bicycle just jerks to a stop, no skidding except in rainy weather (but then my skids whip all over the place).
I'm running a 42/12 gear ratio (I know, it's huge but it's all I could scavenge parts-wise) and a 700×28c slick michelin back tire, and I'd like to know if it's normal that I'm having such a hard time skidding?
Also everyone on the internet seems to be running much lower gear inches than me, yet I personally find it fine for my daily commutes in the city. Should I just invest in a new chainring and cog?

Thanks to all those who take the time to answer!


texts: Where can I find information on Kent 700c Eagle Ridge axle nuts, I want to buy Hexlox

texts: Where can I find information on Kent 700c Eagle Ridge front and rear outer axle nuts, so they can be replaced with Hexlox?


texts: What is the hydraulic brakes expected life?

texts:
I bought a pair of hydraulic brakes (Shimano BL-M395) for my MTB. After 8 months (less than 1,000 kms), both (front/rear brake) started to leak oil thru pistons, rendering pads contaminated and the brakes unusable.

Being unserviceable (except for bleeding), the caliper or the whole kit must be replaced in case of problems. That's not cheap.

Thinking about buying a new pair, I wonder How long will last typical consumer level hydraulic brake (years, kms)? It's something you have to discard and replace every year?


texts: My SPD shoes + cleats won't clip in to my SPD pedals

texts:
I purchased some touring shoes (Giro Republic) that support a two bolt cleat. I opted for a standard, popular Shimano M520L pedal with matching cleats.

I installed the pedals, loosened the tension on the clip mechanism, and install the cleats with the triangular end facing forward.

Unfortunately, I can't clip in. It appears that the rubber pads surrounding the shoe make contact with the pedal axle before the cleat can engage with the back of the pedal. Note the forward part of the cleat is hooked into the front, as expected. The rear is sitting on top of the sprint mechanism.

My question is, is there something I am doing wrong in my install process? The dealer indicated they have not had reports of incompatibility between this particular shoe and cleat.


texts: How do I use my power meter file to improve my time up this steep hill climb tt?

texts: The hill is 0.8km long with an average gradient of 13%. My cadence on my 46t-36t 11-25t 9 speed gear ratio starts at 80rpm and rapidly dips to 40 rpm. Is there a way to calculate what gear ratio is best for me to move to?


texts:
I replaced my very first tube ever after my tire went flat yesterday. I successfully installing a new tube, inflated it, and left it overnight.

This evening the tire was still fully inflated, but after a little riding the tire rapidly deflated again. The new tube has a large tear right at the valve (and after inspecting the old tube, that is also where the tear is.

Inspecting the wheel shows this is what the valve hole looks like:

Was this the cause of the puncture, and would replacing the rim tape resolve this issue? Or is that normally how it looks?

The issue is I don't have a reference of what this part of the rim tape should look like.


texts: Rear stand light on a Cube Nuroad FE not working

texts:
I bought online a Cube Nuroad Race FE 2021 that comes full with fenders and dynamo lights. The front light is the Supernova E3 Pure and, although not stated clearly on Cube's site, the rear light should be Cube Pro-D dynamo mudguard rear light that includes stand light function according to Cube's site.
Now when the bike moves, both lights shine brightly and all is well. When I stop however (even after a long ride), the front stand light works, but the rear stand light does not. I noticed however a very very dim light in it.
I have asked Cube for help, but I am really wondering what is going on and whether there is a way to troubleshoot this. I know that this is not a bad component issue, since other users report the same behavior.
Also a minor note: I checked Supernova's manual and the only interesting thing I found was that the rear light should NOT be grounded to the frame. I checked it and could not see any ground cabling on the rear.

There are two wires going back to the rear light.


texts:
I started the debate with my brother asking him, "If you had to do a 20km ride around a circle I.e at the end of your ride you arrive at the same place you started, would you rather cycle on a flat or have uphills and downhills to get the best time?" To this he answered "I would rather cycle on uphills and downhills, mainly because I have time to recover on the downhills." I said that I'd rather go on a flat because you burn out faster on the uphill than you recover on the downhill since the time spent going down is considerably shorter. Id like to hear from the community on which side of the debate they stand and why.

Note: someone please edit my tags I have no idea which to use.


texts: MTB freewheel not moving back wheel after change of tyre

texts:
I changed my MTB tyres to a slick set to use on road and also to connect to a turbo trainer.

After changing the tyre, I put the wheel back in, and see that the pedals are moving the chain and the freewheel around the back wheel but the wheel itself does not move at all. If I sit on the bike seat and try to pedal, I don't feel any resistance to push against.

What have I done wrong? Any tips please.

Many thanks everyone, great experience of community helping here. In my case, I managed to take it to Halfords and fortunately they were able to diagnose the problem, that it was freewheel problem but great that they fixed it too. I am really delighted. Many thanks.


texts:
Why is the chain connecting the front and rear cranks of a tandem called a timing chain.  This brings to mind big-block V8s and leaky timing chain covers that plagued my younger years.

What's the history of this term?


texts: Campanolo record power meter crank with veloce crankset

texts:
Can I use a Stages Campagnolo Record left crank with my Campagnolo veloce crankset,   if the sizes are a match?

Want a power meter of some sorts and it would be far cheaper than getting vectors.


texts:
I have a single speed bike with a flip-flop hub and recently I decided to try out the fixed side.   When testing it out in the car-park I was applying backpressure to brake and found sometimes the mechanism slipping.  I tried and recreated it a few times but I could not tell whether it was something in the machine slipping or just the tire slipping on the ground.

Is it normal for the tire to slip on the ground a little bit?  All I did was to loosen the bolts, flip the wheel over and swap chain, and tighten up the bolts again.  Is there any way it's possible to do the conversion 'wrong' or have slipping in the crank/hub?  I don't want to ride the bike on the road like this if it could be unsafe.


texts: What does "modulate" mean when referring to brakes?

texts:
Often in a review of brakes, or an article talking about braking the author will use the term "modulate." E.g. "The brake modulates well" or "Modulate your front brake."

What exactly does this term refer to?


texts: Town bike intermittently harder to pedal

texts:
I have a Dutch town bike with backpedal brakes (omafiets). I live in Amsterdam where it's flat and have checked the tires are fully inflated.

Originally the bike was very easy to pedal and often it still is. However, sometimes it feels about 20-50% harder to pedal. For example, flats feel like small upslopes and long upslopes feel intolerable. I'm trying to account for the slope, wind and my own tiredness. Occasionally it feels like I turn a corner and it's suddenly easier or harder. I'm often doing the same routes with different perceived difficulty.

My feeling is that something is sticking on the rear wheel. I have occasional perceived a small dragging sensation whilst pushing the bike with my hands (dismounted). My assumption is that the brake is slightly sticking. Two different bike shops have told me that this isn't possible. There is some slight side-to-side play in the wheel (about 1-2mm at a guess).

First bike shop said it would be the side-to-side play, second bike shop agreed so I had them fix it. They replaced the chain, pedal attachment, rear wheel and rear axle at significant cost relative to bike value. This did not help. Recently went back and they said the wheel is loose again, suggest tightening again. Of course, I'm doubting this is the problem.

I've read that cone adjustment should be done in this situation. However, my understanding is that tightening the wheel will actually make it harder to pedal - the adjustment is a trade-off between ease of rotation and stability of the wheel. Do I understand correctly?

Any other ideas on what could be causing this?


texts: Rear wheel replacement: freewheel -> freehub and cog size changes

texts:
I've replaced the rear wheel on my bicycle. The new wheel is different in two respects:

I got a 8-speed freehub because 7-speed freewheel hubs seem to be difficult to find these days.
I had a 7-speed cassette with 14-28 teeth and replaced it with 12-32, using an extra 12T cog as a spacer on the distal side.

Two problems emerged:

The previous cassette had a lot of space between the smallest cog and the dropouts. Not so with the freehub cassette. I had to put the spacer cog on the distal side rather than the proximal one because otherwise the chain had no clearance when on the smallest cog. Even then the lock ring touched some sort of round screw head used to secure the derailleur. With a wrench, I was able to bend the steel (more exactly, unbend it; without wheel, I measure 133 mm rather than 135 between the drop outs and they still bend a little to the inside in the back) on the drive side and now it doesn't touch anymore. However, the clearance is very small when the QR skewer is tight (less than 1/2 mm). The question is: is it a good idea to file the screw head a bit or bend the drop out more so as to get more clearance? I'm worried that under heavy load the frame will bend in a way that there is contact with the lock ring.
The derailleur can't handle the chain being the two largest cogs. This crossed configuration is not something that I would ever use, at least on purpose. Is there anything I should be concerned about here?


texts: Do suspension seatposts work as well as a full suspension MTB?

texts:
I used to have department store (Target) MTB that i used for 2 years until it got stolen, i used to ride casually in the city no complaints as of reliability.

Want to buy same because we have very bad roads here where i live and i am tired of going over bumps on the city bicycle.
Where i live its tough to find used MTB with built in rear shock, would i get equivalent suspension if i buy hard tail MTB and upgrade to seat post with shock compared with bicycle on picture?


texts: freewheel stress and possible difficult removal with super underdrive gear?

texts:
I tried to research this online but didn't see any examples of this exact concern, which is if I gear down a very cheap mountain bike that has a 7 speed freewheel, do I run the risk of creating so much torque magnification that something bad could happen?  Is it possible that something could break from the high torque?  What about if and when I need to remove the freewheel?  Might it be stuck from the high torque pedaling in the lowest gear?

Stock lowest gear is 24/28 and I will attempt either 20/28, 24/34, or 20/34 which is about 15.3 gear inches.  I ride mostly on the street at a slow pace (about 10 MPH average) but I also like to ride thru grass slowly and even in grass uphills so I put a good deal of force on the pedals in that situation.


texts: Need Advice with upgrading Chainrings / Crankset

texts:
I currently own a 2012 Specialized Secteur and I am interested in upgrading to a 52/36 crankset. I have a the original crankset (S150) and the 50/34 chainrings. My cassette is SRAM Apex, 10-speed, 11-32t

If I have to upgrade to 52/36, do I have to upgrade the crankset and bottom bracket as well ?

Please advice what all needs to be upgraded ? Is the SRAM Rival set a good option ?

Full bike specs are here
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bike-archive/2012/secteur/secteurcompapexcompact/35153


texts: What pedal cage is compatible with size 14 shoe?

texts: Are there toe clips/straps that are oversized to comfortably fit a men's 14/15 shoe?


texts: Will 40km E-Bike trip in Texel Island(Holland) be hard for untrained people?

texts:
I'm planning to have a trip in Texel island(North-Holland) in April,

We are a group of 5 people, 22 years old, who know how to ride a bike

But we do not train on cycling.

Will a trip of 40km, in 8 hours+-, with an E-Bike be very hard for us?

Thank you very much.


texts: How to remove stuck Shimano Hollow-Tech bottom bracket cups?

texts: When I tried to remove the bottom bracket bearing cups using the BB tool it was very hard to move or it's just stuck. Tried WD40 then slowly tapping the tool using a mallet didn't work. To cut the story short, the tool moves but the cups didn't. Other to remove these? As you can see in the picture, the tool left marks on the cups.


texts: Will Slick Tires Work for a Mountain Bike Ridden by a Heavier Rider?

texts:
I've owned a Trek 3500 bike (shown below) for 2.5 years now and I like it very much.

My bike has the same specs as under the link. It has the XL frame size and 26" wheels with Bontrager AT-550 36-hole rims. I've started looking into changing the Bontrager tires to slick road tires though as I've begun to ride more for exercise and not just recreational. 95% of my riding is on paved roads/trails. The problem is I have no idea what tires can work on my bike for me. I'm considering the high pressure Kenda K193 tires. Can anyone advise? I'm looking for the best tires I can get for around $35 each. Is it even possible to replace the 2" tires with 1.5" without needing to buy new rims and everything?

I'm riding ~35 miles on weekends and let's just say I'm right now a heavier guy (~300 lbs). I've ridden on the same tires almost daily since I first bought it, so I feel it's about time to change them anyway.


texts: Trainer tire for Specialized mountain bike with a Cycle Ops

texts:
I am looking for a trainer tire to use with my Cycle Ops and Specialized Hard Rock mountain bike that uses a 26 x 2.00 tube for outdoor. I have not been able to find this size in a trainer tire, what can I use? My regular tire is very loud when using with the Cycle Ops.

I appreciate help...

Kindest regards,  jeanie


texts: How to reassemble a completely disassembled brake caliper?

texts:
I have mechanical disk brakes in my XC bike and in the process of replacing the brake pads, I completely opened the insides of the brake caliper. There were three ball bearings and a spring attached to the brake lever. Now I have no idea how to put them in position, I tried assembling once but there is no any braking action to the wheels. I think I assembled it wrong. Can anybody help me with this issue?

EDIT 1: Here is the picture of the disassembled caliper. I am not sure of the brand because it is completely erased.


texts:
After my chain has broken what should I know about buying and maintaining a new chain (apart from lubing it and replacing when it 'stretches')? Do you keep a spare chain, or a spare link?

I have a commuter bike (a Kona Dr Dew) with Shimano dérailleurs.

The first chain was replaced "worn to at least 100%" after the first 6 months/5000 km. The cassette seems OK and not worn. This was the second chain, replaced two months ago. I noticed occasional slipping gears but don't know whether that was the chain, or the indexing of the gear shifter.

The chain (the replacement chain, which broke) is an SRAM PC-951 which Google says is "our most economical chain".

Update - it wasn't the removable SRAM link, it was one of the factory links that broke. Because it had been skipping and the previous chain worn more than 100%, I asked to replace the chain and the cassette (even though he agreed that the cassette didn't look really worn, he said 5000 km is too far for a chain); and got a chain stretch measuring tool, if replacing the chain every 6 months isn't often enough. Anyway it's tight again now. The new chain is a more expensive SRAM PC-991 (which cost more than the new SRAM 950 cassette). The original parts I think were all Shimano.


texts: I have a KMC x10e chain which is 162 links long on my Xtracycle electric cargo bike.  The chain is worn and I am trying to replace it.  From what I can tell it is available only in 136 links. Is the way to get to 162 to buy two and combine them?  Or is it possible to buy a custom chain at exactly the length needed or buy a long one and reduce it to 162?


texts: Why are most commuting panniers designed as shoulder bags and not backpacks?

texts:
I commute to work just carrying a light laptop and/or my tablet computer, my lunch, and a few papers.

I'd prefer to use panniers rather than a backpack or messenger bag, but once I get to work, I have to carry the bag around day and therein is the rub. Almost all commuting panniers that I've seen convert to a messenger bag using a single large shoulder strap. I don't like shoulder bags as they hurt my back.

I'd really like to see a commuting-size backpack/pannier but these seem to be almost non-existent. Is there a reason why they are so rare? Am I missing out what could be an enormous market -- the businessperson who bike commutes but still needs to carry their bag on their back once they get to their work campus?


texts: I'm going to check out this Masi and the owner doesn't know which year or model this is. Can someone please help identify this bike?


texts: How to remove rear wheel of old school Brompton 3-speed

texts:
I want to remove the rear wheel in order to replace the tire and tube.
How to detach the chain-tension cable on this old-school 3-speed Brompton? Does that black losenge-shaped thingie that is attached to small chain going into the rear hub simply get twisted off the threaded connector? Is that shiny clip somehow involved?
When I attempt to unthread the plastic piece from the threaded connector at the end of the hub chain, the chain-tension cable itself begins to untwist into separate strands.


texts: Mystery puncture -- caused by inner end of ice spike?

texts:
I had to change my back tube yesterday and couldn't find anything by eye or by feel on the inside of the tyre, by eye on the outside (it's a schwalbe winter so you can't find anything except its own spikes by running it through your hands). The rim and rim tape were also clean.

Several of the spike bases showed signs of wear on the inside of the tyre, in one case there were threads showing.  By the time I found that I'd taken the tube out, so I just covered it and put a new tube in.

I haven't yet patched the tube (I do them in batches to save the glue drying up on the shelf) but there was no visible damage (or hissing with everything still on the bike).  The tyre had held pressure for a week before feeling low on Saturday and being confirmed on Sunday, so I'm not inclined to blame grit in the valve.

The tyres only have ~1000km on them, last winter and some of this winter.  They've lost a few studs but the tread looks as new.  They've only been used on tarmac (a few spots on my route are prone to black ice).  They've also only been run close to the max pressure, as recommended for hard surfaces.

I'd be happy to dismiss it as bad luck, but if this is an issue I'll fit tyre liners next time I mount these tyres

So: Can the inner end of ice spikes wear through the casing to cause punctures?


texts: What is the function of these 'bulges' on the frame?

texts:
A friend brought me an old frame that he found on the roadside on bulky waste day (is that a thing outside of Austria and Germany?).
The rear wheel was gone, the front one bent beyond repair, but the rest of the bike was in quite good condition. From the parts on it (a complete Shimano 105, 2x7 groupset) I guess it's from the early 90ies.

The interesting feature on it, one that I have never seen before, are these "bulges" on the main tubes (top tube, down tube, and seat tube).

The feature is visible on the second photo, and in the third image I have made a crude sketch of the cross-section of those tubes.

Does anyone know WHY they are there? Is there some engineering idea behind that? Is it just an optical feature?

PS: I thought that maybe it was some kind of identifying feature of the manufacturer, but I can not find any information about a bicycle manufacturer "Oberriet" (see photo nr. 4) at all. This just made me even more curious.


texts: What type of terrain makes an MTB mandatory?

texts:
I'm somewhat new to biking, and I've been commuting to work on my new touring/hybrid bike for a few months now (it's a 2014 Novara Safari). I am very interested in doing some actual self-supported bike tours, but I'm unclear on what type of routes I can expect to tackle.

Obviously, I can do paved and gravel trails/roads, but will any type of single-track or dirt-path be unthinkable for great distances? I suspect anything with jumps is a bad idea, but that's probably true for any loaded bike. What other things should I look out for on these trails with a non-MTB?

As a follow-up, what can I do to improve my bike for these rougher paths? I have already installed Schwalbe Marathon Pro Tours (original continentals kept slipping in wet grass and getting flats at the sight of a thorn), which have some decent tread.

For context, I'm considering segments on the Ozark Trail in Missouri. If I can't reasonably expect to do this on my current bike, I'll be settling for the Katy Trail.


texts: Low sprocket exceeds derailleur max teeth but total capacity within range of derailleur

texts:
I plan on keeping a 2x10 drivetrain on a couple of bikes, and I've come across a sale on 10s cassettes. One of the cassettes is a Shimano HG-500 with 11-42t count. The front drive will be either 34-24 or 38-28. My rear derailleur is an XT RD-M781 SGS cage which specs out as max low sprocket of 36 and total capacity of 43t.  If I were to put the 11-42 cassette on, the total capacity count is 41.  I realize that Shimano is very conservative with their specs as far as maximum tooth counts, but six teeth over the max low sprocket spec may be a bit much.
Anyone care to chime in on any experiences with a similar set up? Or thoughts on the question, if I've exceeded the tooth count on the max low sprocket but not the total capacity of the rear derailleur, can I expect good shifting?
Notes: yes, I'd like the low ratio to defeat some steep berms that have thus far defeated me.
I typically match up a dedicated chain to a specific cassette, so the 11-42 would come with its own sized chain.


texts: Recently purchased this but can’t find anything on the possible make on this


texts: Recommended spoke for enduro/all mtn riding

texts: What would be the ideal choice of spokes for enduro, all mtn or freeriding? would it be a double butted, triple butted or just single?


texts: When shifting gears, how does a bike chain catch the new cog so reliably?

texts: I think I understand the derailleur mechanism pretty well, yet I still find it surprising how the chain catches on the new cog so reliably.  Is there something I'm missing?  Is it just with the proper derailleur alignment, the chain will inevitably catch?


texts: enter image description hereI purchased this bike at a thrift shop and it rides like a dream.  Out of curiosity I'm trying to figure out the make and brand.  The parts on it seem to be very nice so I'm thinking that the frame is top of the line too.  your help is much appreciated.  Thank you in advance


texts:
I have been hearing a bit about pedal kickback recently, but I do not quite understand whAt it is.

What is pedal kickback and how can I use it to my advantage (if that's possible).

Thanks.


texts: Anyone know a way to get a profile of a ride from google?

texts:
I'm considering adjusting my ride to work a bit - considering a change that will make it slightly longer, and probably a lot hillier.  But from looking at the route on google maps, I can't really tell, even with the terrain layer turned on.

Anyone know of a tool that will graph the profile of a route for me?

Edit: Ideally, I'd be able to just link the tool to my route on google, and not have to redraw it.

(The routes in question:  Current route, proposed route)


texts: Does tire pressure affect rolling resistance on pavement?

texts:
It's a no brainer, right? Yet a comment links to a blog post claiming to have scientifically proven there is no significant effect. It looks solid but is not a paper in a peer-reviewed journal.
What is the current understanding of rolling resistance of a slick tire on pavement?


texts: What steps should I follow to patch a tube?

texts:
I was wondering if I'm missing something when I patch my wheel, because I patched it yesterday and it had low pressure today.

This is what I did:

Released the air
Used 2 screwdrivers to remove the tire from the rim
Removed the tube with my hands
Inflate the tube
Took the tube into a bucket with water to see where the bubbles came from
Identified the puncture point
Let the tube dry
Filled the zone around puncture with a half milimeter layer of glue
Let dry
Took out the transparent plastic from the patch
Put the patch over the glue layer
Put pressure using hands
Put the tube in position on wheel (looking at where the valve should go)
Put the tire in position
Inflate the tube

It happened to me once before, but other times worked ok.

I would like to have a complete procedure to patch a tire.


texts:
I recently serviced my FH-RM66 and was surprised to find that the cones have a couple of washers in the middle. The cones are monolithic, so the weashers can't be holding it together or absorbing vibrations.

What purpose are those washers serving? And how were they mounted in there?


texts:
I have a similar question to Non-quick release through axle - a few questions. My rear axle is similar to that one so I seem to be sorted from that question.

However, the front one is different. It does have a lever, but not a quick-release one I am used to or which I can find in all tutorials. It also has an allen key screw in the centre.

The manufacturer is Mr. Control (12x100mm) and from the Catalogue I ques it could be the QR-MF5-12X type. The description just says "Lever can be adjusted from rotational position. Max force to 150kg".

For regular opening like changing a tube or tyre do I open the little bolt or do I use the lever? What does the little screw with much smaller torque rating? Do I need to have a torque wrench in the field with me for that one?


texts: What are some good flat pedal shoes for XC racing?

texts:
Like the title says, I'm looking for some recommendations on good flat pedal shoes. This could include ones with an SPD or other interface that has removable clips. I'm currently riding with a set of 5.10 Freeriders, which offer great traction and grip to flats, but are really heavy.

At some point, I'll probably have to force myself to race clipped in, but for now I love my ability to quickly dab and destroy any downhill sections.

Quick breakdown of what I'm looking for:

Light weight
Grippy/good traction
No clips/removable clips


texts:
I have a Tiagra 4600 10 speed rear mech (mid length) which is sluggish to shift into higher gears.

Shifting was all over the place, I’ve replaced the jockey wheels and checked the hanger alignment. Shifting is now indexed fine up the cassette but lags behind every click when shifting into harder gears, when the return spring is doing the work. It’s indexed ok this way too, but lags a full cog every click.

Is there any way to service a rear mech, to increase the spring tension? I could source a replacement spring or other parts off junked derailleurs at LBS if there’s a solution to be had there.


texts:
On one online sales site there's a drop-down widget showing various sizes of the Shimano UN55.  "JIS spindle" appears as a bullet-point next to someone of the size choices but not all of them, hence my question:

Is the Shimano UN55 bottom bracket in 68x122.5 and 68x127.5 sizes JIS square taper?

A technical document on the Shimano website didn't resolve my doubts since it doesn't address the spindle standard, and it doesn't mention the 122.5 and 127.5 lengths anywhere, and it shows this BB as available with either English or Italian threads, so who knows if the spindle shape changes too?

Many online vendors include generic pictures with their BB listings and often have incomplete descriptions, so that the inexperienced customer (like me) is often in doubt.  For example, I just bought a BB online that had 1.37 stamped on the body in the accompanying picture which turned out not to be 1.37 at all. It had 36mm OD cup thread, not 35mm (1.37).


texts:
Recent years saw the introduction of hollow axles, as the pipe is the stiffest construction for it's weight for loads expected on an axle.

And now the industry is introducing the 12mm solid rear axle. Solid. Why solid? Why not standardize both axles to be 9, 15 and 20mm and be done with it?


texts: A clicking every couple of pedal turns (video included)

texts:
I have been using a hybrid trek for a couple of weeks.

The bike is still very new with only around 150 miles done.

This morning on a ride it kept clicking every few pedal turns.

I cut the ride short as I didn't want to damage it further.

Any ideas from the video?


texts: lezyne super gps wont record data on turbo trainer rides

texts: I just purchased a lezyne super gps and have had no problems on out door rides but indoors where there is no gps signal it refuses to record the data from my power meter. Is there something basic I am doing wrong?


texts:
I'm looking for an entry-level hybrid bike to ride on weekends. My budget is ~£230, I been looking on ebay, amazon, halfords..

Those two look good to me for the moment:

Forme Brute from Ebay

Viking from Amazon

But my knowledge about bikes is limited, so any suggestion would be appreciated.
Cheers.


texts: What parameters are important when replacing a rear hub?

texts:
My rear hub is damaged. I have not yet inspected the source of the damage, but the wheel is moving sideways when rotating (a LOT), plus I rode it like this for about 35km. Therefore, I find it probable to soon need to replace the hub.

The rim and spokes are new (couple of months of commuting). I suppose I wouldn't be running in the "old spokes new hub" problem.

The old hub has 24 spokes. The disc rotor is attacked via 6 bolts.

What else should I know in order to judge if a specific hub will be a compatible swap (beyond that getting the exact same hub should work okay).


texts: A bike for city commute - disc brakes, bar-end shifters, tires

texts:
I'm planning on buying a bike for city commute.

My commute to work is approximately 12km (7.5 miles) one way.  I live in Vancouver which means:

I'll be riding in rainy weather frequently.
I'll be going up and down hills.
I'll be going through lots of intersections (meaning lots of stopping and starting again).

And I'll be commuting mostly during the rush hour.

Here are a few questions:

Since I'll be riding in rainy weather: a) should I get a bike that has disc brakes?  I read somewhere that they behave better than rim brakes. b) should I get a bike that has hydraulic vs wire brakes?
Since I'll be going up and down hills, I'll be changing gears.  Are bar-end shifters the best choice for this type of riding?  Or are they meant for rides where the gears don't change often.
What kind of tires should I be looking for?  I figure (intuitively) thinner tires are faster, but since I'll be riding in rainy weather should I opt for thicker tires (more surface area)?

Is there any other thing I should be looking into?


texts: Who has information on this Fondriest Bike we found? Any good?

texts: Does anyone here know anything about this old Fondriest bike?


texts: Apollo gradient rear bottom frame mount pivot point

texts: After only 6 months of use the bottom pivot point has developed play where the rear frame section is rocking from side to side I have looked everywhere for what is causing the problem and for the replacement parts to fix this problem with no success your help would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
So I'm currently looking for a new bike and would like to get another mountain bike as it's most important to me that it's resilient and that I can ride all terrain.

However most of the time I'd use it for the city.

Are there mountain bikes (or are there ways for adjusting them) that are more fit for cities? In particular I'd like to sit comfortably on it.

I don't have much expertise with bikes which is why I'm asking here.


texts: Why should I wear bicycle clothes made of spandex?

texts: What's the reason for wearing biking clothes made of Spandex (Lycra)? They sure look pretty strange.


texts:
Been reading from posts and can’t find my answer. Any help would be appreciated.

Scenario: I currently have a Felt AR5 10-speed with shimano 105 rear/front derailleur, 105 levers & brakes and a FSA crank 50/34 compact. I will like to change the crankset to 105. But I believe the 105 is only a 11-speed type crank.

Question: will the shimano 105 11-speed 52/36 crank work in this scenario? And what bottom bracket would be needed (BB30 or BB60 English). I would still run with 10-speed.

Thanks!


texts: Why are bolts of brake discs using Torx sockets?

texts:
Most bolts on bikes are using hex sockets. However, there is at least one exception: the 6 bolts of brake discs, which usually have Torx sockets.

What is the reason for this? Has the Torx socket a significant importance in this area in particular?

Related question: I'm considering replacing these bolts with titanium version (saves 6 grams per wheel, woohoo!), and I can buy them with either hex or Torx sockets (hex would be a bit more convenient as I have hex keys readily available everywhere, on the other hand, the Torx socket is technically better). Can I just pick the socket I prefer, or would you strongly advise for Torx?


texts: Why does my front brake cable push out of my brake lever?

texts:
Why is my front brake cable getting pushed out of my brake lever? Is a component of the lever itself broken?
Crashed into a pole the other day, busted the front brake. Brand new to both riding and repairs, so bear with me here. I purchased a new cable + housing to replace the front brake entirely in the hopes that will clear up this issue, but I still want to know what exactly is happening when I press down on my brake lever to cause the cable to push forward? (see video) Thanks for any insight.


texts:
I use my bicycle in a typical urban commute setting. No extreme MTB, but it still accumulates some dust and grime.

How should I wash my bicycle?


texts: Packaging up and sending a bike from UK to Europe

texts:
I need to send my gravel bike (~11 kg) one way from the UK to Switzerland in a few weeks. As I am going by Eurostar part of the way, I was intending on using their Eurodespatch service, but this has been suspended indefinitely due to Covid-19.
Does anyone know of a cheap and reliable service for posting a bike from the UK to Switzerland?
Some couriers claim to post bikes but, when it comes to requesting a quick quote, they often just say that the parcel is too big or too heavy.
Also, any advice on how to dismantle and pack the bike up safely whilst saving space (will need to find a suitably small cardboard box) will be much appreciated.


texts: Has bicycle gearing become 'easier' over the last few decades?

texts:
If you look at a 10-12 speed bicycle from the days before indexed gears you have a 27"/700c wheel with a 42/52 chainset and a 14-28 freewheel. At the time such a setup was standard for High Street bicycles.

Nowadays your affordable bicycle has 24-30 speeds. Typically you get a 26" or 700c wheel with a 44/32/22 triple chainset and 8-10 gears on the back with a range going from 13 to 32. Put it into the smallest gear and pedal at a reasonable cadence and you get to travel at slower than walking speed. Push it into the big gear and you are a long way short of the 52/14 gear of granddad's bike.

Clearly technology has advanced and you can have lots more gears across a bigger range. However, has there been a trend with affordable 'High Street' bikes towards lower and lower gears?

Have we collectively learned to pedal quicker?

Have market forces resulted in 'easier' gearing?


texts: Is it possible to combine rod brakes with a coaster brake?

texts:
I'm restoring an old roadster bicycle with Westwood rims. I love how it looks but the braking is horrible, especially because I live in an area with a lot of downhills.

I don't want to add cable brakes, so I would like to add a coaster brake to the rear wheel, which would be more discreet. Is it possible?


texts:
What are the failure modes (symptoms) of a failing or failed freewheel?

My understanding of normal free wheeling means the rear tire should rotate when the bike is moving and the pedals are or are not rotating.

Failure would mean the bike and the pedals always move together, like a fixed or locked hub, or the pedals and cassette move but the rear tire seems disconnected.

I intermittenly have a 1/4 - 1/2 crank turn 'slip' in the pedals before the wheel begins to move. The condition is very obvious on my trainer, not noticeable on the road. Is it a free wheel failure or something else?

If the freewheel is indeed the problem as I suspect, is it repairable or am I required to replace the freewheel and cassette together.


texts:
I'm looking at getting a new bike, but struggling with the most suitable one given the different geometries.

Given a particular torso angle, is there an optimal stack & reach? A large S&R would see the arms stretched out further in front, while a smaller S&R would see the arms pointing more down toward the ground. If too small, the knees would hit the elbows and if too large, one would struggle to take weight on the hands, but is there a parameter that would dictate the "correct" sizing?

I'll try to add an image soon to help clarify if needed.

Cheers!


texts:
I live in Washington State and here the law states cyclists have the choice to ride on the sidewalks, bicycle lane, or on the road with other traffic. I usually just ride to school and back, which is only about a mile away. There are no bicycle lanes the entire way, so I usually resort to the sidewalk because I'm nervous about being so close to other cars.

I've been rethinking riding on the sidewalk as the other day I got cut off by a lady pulling out of a driveway and was forced to turn into the driveway to avoid a crash. Also, after school there's a ton of people that walk and clog up the sidewalks.

My question is, I want to get on the road but am confused about where to be. How do you ride on a road that doesn't have a bicycle lane?

I do know one thing - I DO NOT want to be on the far right side, by the curb, as that is almost worse. Do I just pretend I'm a car and do everything like them? How do I change lanes, etc.?

I'll mention a few more details that might be helpful. The route I take to get there is pretty quiet until the last half, where there are several schools on the same street so, naturally, it's one huge school zone. Cars cannot exceed 20MPH, and I easily ride at that pace (there aren't any steep hills). I have a set of head lights, brake lights, and even turn signals on my ride that are plenty visible.


texts:
I am trying to use a multigear bike to make a pedal power bike. I am trying to add an extra cog to attach a chain to connect the motor to. See link.http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gadgets/how-to/a10245/pedal-power-how-to-build-a-bike-generator-16627209/
Is it possible with multigear or do I need a fixed gear?


texts: Replacing an ebike's cable disc brakes with hydraulic disc

texts:
I have a Viking Gravity 250w 24v ebike.
I'm just wondering if I can replace the braking system with a hydraulic type and what would happen to the wired braking safety feature? Would I have to retrace the connection and remove it?
Any information would be appreciated as the brakes are rubbish and constantly need adjusting etc.
Also why are my brake pads red? Are they a certain type e.g. ceramic etc?


texts: A complete index of bike maintenance video's

texts:
The internet contains a valuable collection of technical maintenance video's, typically on Youtube.
But it can take some time before you stumble upon the one that is specifically useful for you.
So I wonder if there is some community project that bothers to make a thorough inventory of the most relevant video's and label them with

Brand information
Part numbers
Which task is executed
Which problem is solved
...

Does anybody know about a directory like this?
Should we start one ourselves?
Grts
J.


texts: How to prevent shifting issues due to derailleur or cables freezing in cold weather

texts:
It's been fluctating in temperature between 0F and 20F in my area. I've been riding my 1x9 geared mountain bike to and from work. However, due to the cold weather, I'm having issues shifting.

It seems that I can typically shift in to an larger cog, but my derailleur is unresponsive when I shift to a smaller cog. I think this is because when shifting to a larger cog, the cable is pulled by the shifter, however for the smaller cog, the derailleur would be moved back by spring pressure and due to the cold conditions, it's not strong enough to fight the frozen gunk.

What can I do to keep my bike shifting in the cold?


texts: Trailer connection, off the shelf parts and proven performer

texts:
I am planning a long bike and canoe trip (bike tows canoe, canoe carries bike and cart), There are a couple of purpose built products for towing a canoe with a bike dumb stick & woody hitch but they each have short comings.  There are hub connections used by standard tow a kid trailers, but they are not designed for the heavier usage of towing a canoe, and replacements must be mail ordered.

There are around 100 different home made approaches pictured on the internet.  Many of the home grown solutions involve welding or special fabrication solutions, the remainder only have pictures and stories from when the idea was conceived. There are a few stories about long bike & canoe journeys but the ones I found do not have detail about the trailer connection.  I have seriously spent hours looking at posts and problem solving.  Based on research I have a solution that uses off the shelf parts from the local DIY store, but my solution (unique I think) does not yet have a proven history.

On a journey of thousands of miles (Pittsburgh, PA. to New Orleans, LA.), it is reasonable to expect that every component may fail at least once. The more specialized it is the more difficult it will be to replace or repair on the journey.

I am looking for a bike to canoe trailer connection, (I am using the Seattle Sports ATC Cart but not the hitch or tongue) that has a proven (100s to 1,000s of miles) design, that can be built or repaired with materials commonly available in hardware stores and with simple hand tools.

Update per request in comments My bicycle is a disposable ($100 new) from a box store (target possibly), My canoe is an older 17 foot Coleman it weighs about 75 pounds empty but will probably have another 50 pounds of gear at journey onset. The wheels/cart are centered so there is ~1-5 pounds tongue weight. (The dolly is rated at 300 pounds so tongue weight should always be 10 pounds or less)

The current solution only has about 5 miles on it. A schedule 40 PVC 1 1/4 (or 1 1/2?) to 1 inch connector is used as the hitch, the bike has a quick release for the seat, so loosen the seat pull the post out and center the connector and restore the seat = Connected, (takes like 5 seconds).

The support arm is a 4 foot section of schedule 40 PVC 1 inch pipe, structural strength is added by inserting a 4 foot length of 1 inch dowel, slathered (during insertion) with silicone sealant for water proofing, and adhesion to the inside of the pipe.  Connection to the canoe is via two J Hooks with wing nuts (drill through pipe and dowel).  The bow connector seemed like it would have more strain, and there was a slide over T connector (not water tight) with a screw in connector, I cut the screw in part off and used it to add strength to the center/bow connection.  Joining the T to the tube is with PVC cement and a small (3//16?) bolt and nut is placed through the 1 inch junction of the T, Tube & Dowel.

Everything is off the shelf (Lowe's), Because the seat post is at about a 15 degree angle, the hitch self-centers and tends to stay fairly stable.


texts: Replacement from 3x Sugino cranks to any Shimano 3x

texts: Specialized Sirrus with carbon forks, 9s peed Tiagra rear, 3sp front.


texts: Is there a way to know if someone is drafting behind without turning your head back or trying to hear the noises?

texts:
In a group ride when I'm the one pulling, I often unknowingly leave my friends behind until I turn my head and see them in far distance, then I had to slow down.

Is there a way to know that they are still tailing me without turning my head every few seconds? like, does it feel different somehow? or maybe there is a way to peek that I didn't know of?


texts: Seeking advice: single speed conversion, Fuji ultimate road bike (old!) - Which kit? Which chain? etc

texts:
First off - I'm a complete amateur when it comes to doing repairs on bikes. Anything exceeding changing tyres, tubes and perhaps adjusting the brakes is something I've never attempted before. However, I feel like I should get better at it, and this should be a great project.

Here's a pic of my bike, a vintage (don't know precisely how old it is) Fuji Ultimate road bike (10-speed):

I'd like to do the following things:

Temove derailleurs, related cabling, gear shifters from bike
Replace the cassette with a single chain ring at the back, but not a fixed one. I'd like it to be single speed.
If possible, still use the cranks on the front (the small ring), without having to do any removal / replacement
Get a new chain and put it on
If possible: replace the current brake calipers with up-to-date (cheap-ish) ones, e.g. tektro brakes (but still leave the current brake levers on the bike)

I'd specifically like to ask you all for some advice regarding how to go about this project:

Which parts will I need to buy, and what specifically would you recommend? I don't want to end up accidentally buying the wrong size ring/chain or something like that.
What tools will I need? I have a basic toolkit, and some pocket bike tools.
Are there some online tutorials you could point me towards?
Will new (Tektro?) brakes fit on to this bike?
Will I manage this? :D

Finally, here is another picture of the rear wheel / hub / cassette of the bike, to provide slightly more information to everyone:


texts: How to pass a bicycle while driving a car

texts:
I understand this is more of a driving question, but I'm curious to know the answer from the bicycling community and perhaps gain insight into how to act both as a bicyclist and driver.

The other day I was driving on a local two-lane 60mph highway when I encountered a bicyclist. Naturally, I slowed down to assess the situation, waiting for oncoming traffic to pass, and pulled into the oncoming lane in order to give the bicyclist a berth and pass them. This was on a busy country highway with high speed traffic but no bicycle lane nor really a shoulder for them to ride on to avoid cars, so it wasn't the best road to be biking on, but regardless I tried to pass them safely.

To my confusion and amusement, the bicyclist flipped me the bird.

Previously, I had considered to best way to safely pass a bicycle would be to pass them like a car: signal, move into the oncoming lane, move back once the road is clearly seen in my rear view. This apparently was not the correct course of action to the irritated bicyclist, and I am curious to know what the safest and most respectful way to pass a bicyclist is, particularly on a road where there is not a ridable shoulder or bike lane.


texts: How to stop air leak when disconnecting inflator from Schrader valve?

texts: People say that the pin must be pressed down in order for the air to get in. But when I try to remove the pump head by unlocking the lever, too much air leaks before I get to remove the pump.


texts:
I need some help identifying my bottom bracket. One of the bearings is in a very bad shape and needs to be replaced.
Bottom bracket photos


texts: Tips for a novice cyclist wanting to get fit with a turbo trainer before summer

texts:
I have decided to have a dalliance into cycling since a lot of people I know are quite into it themselves.

I have bought myself a bike (Specialised Tri Cross). Only a cheap, used one for now as I can always buy a nice, expensive and more lightweight one further down the line if I find I need it.

I chose a cross/adventure/gravel bike as I do intend to go slightly off-road, along river/canal paths on my travels, rather than being stuck to the road with a specific road bike.

I have also bought a turbo trainer (Tracx Flow smart trainer), along with training tyre so that I can get cycling no matter the weather.

My plan is to make the most of the turbo trainer whilst the weather is less than nice outside, after work so that (hopefully) I can have some sort of fitness for when the summer and the warm(ish) weather comes.

My question for the bicycle.stackexchange community is, how would I best go about doing this?


texts: Need some help with suspension on Mongoose Salvo Comp FS

texts:
I'm 14 years old and have been riding for a year on a Mongoose Salvo Comp full-suspension that was bought second hand and in perfect condition.

The bike is great but after riding a friend's bike, I felt my suspension was probably not good or not set up well it was not really doing the job properly. The liquid in them is oil, and they are very hard.

Do you think I should go to a bike shop to review and fix them or just buy new ones? The fork is SR Suntour, can I fit a  Rock Shox or Fox Fork?

Another question is should the suspension be special to my bike model?

Thanks a lot for answering.


texts: When should the metal clips be replaced on a brompton folder?

texts: I have a brompton which is about 7 years old. Do I need to think about replacing the aluminium clips that lock the frame in place when unfolded?


texts: tyre size for a 28" bike, at the moment: 35C, is 32C too narrow?

texts:
since my tyres are a little old and won't make it much longer, I will buy new ones. At the moment I have Schwalbe Marathon 700-35C  and I was thinking to replace them with a Continental Contact II 700 x 32C. Since there are no Contact II 700 x 35 C I thought about going slightly thinner instead of 700 x 37. Any Ideas on this?

Having less friction on the tyres could be great since my commute grew considerably longer this year.


texts:
Last night I came out of work to a flat tire. This is the second time I've got a puncture with less than 100km done on a brand new set of schwalbe smart sam tires. needless to say I was quite annoyed. The first puncture happened after about 40km and the second was after 95km, last night. It was the same wheel both times. After the first puncture, I checked and double checked for any foreign objects in the tire and rim and I found nothing. I pumped the tire and kept it at about 55psi because I read this is good for avoiding punctures. All this to no avail.

I'm just wonder what can I do to stop punctures for good? I'm a heavy guy (about 110kg) so maybe this just isn't possible? I've tried slime before and that was useless. I currently ride on Smart Sam 26" x 2.25


texts:
Asking about the pump heads that are pressed on the valve, not screwed. One has to lift a lever before pumping. After pumping, push the lever down before removing pump head. I would like to understand the mechanism of the pump head (not the pump itself). Google didn't help.

What I wonder about is that the pump head's cylindrical opening is loose on the (cylindrical) valve and then lifting the lever creates a tight seal between the pump head and the valve. How is this seal created? It seems difficult to narrow a cylindrical opening without something wrinkling, except with an iris valve. But an iris valve would require turning, not lever-lifting.


texts: Why are higher-end freewheels so much louder when coasting?

texts: I tend to ride relatively modest gear (Tiagra/Ultegra), but when I'm riding near higher-end bikes, I sometimes notice that the clicking sound that comes from their cassette/free-wheel while coasting seems to be much louder and more distinct than on my bike.  Why is this?  Intuitively, one would expect that a quieter drive-train would be an indicator of greater efficiency, but that doesn't seem to be the case here.  Is it something to do with different construction, or materials?  Can you get 'quiet' high-end cassettes, or is being noisy while coasting the price you must pay for being efficient while pedaling?


texts: Are collisions with animals something to be worried about when cycling in the country?

texts: I know that driving at dusk in wooded or otherwise open areas greatly increses your risk of collision with an animal, whether that is a deer or other wildlife. I would like to know if when cycling at speed this is something I should keep an eye out for. Have there been instances where a cyclist on a road has collided with a large animal?


texts:
It's time to replace my bottom bracket.  I have an FSA MegaExo with what appears to be a part ID of BB-7100.  There are various markings on the face of the cup, as shown in the attached photo.  While this bottom bracket has done well enough, I'd like to look at other options and get the best price I can.  But I'm not sure what I need to match up to ensure compatibility.  I see, for example, that one measure is 24mm, which appears to be the diameter of the hole for the the splined shaft.  Presumably the width of the bottom bracket shell also matters, but it appears that there are bottom brackets that are made to accommodate various widths.
So, in short, what do I need to match up to ensure that a replacement will fit?  Thank you.


texts: For an expensive rechargeable bicycle light that is bright enough for daytime use, does it detract from charged state if left in a hot garage in the summer?  In other words is it better to bring in the house, especially if you customarily charge them in the house.


texts: Replacing needle bearing threaded headset with an ordinary one

texts:
I got a bicycle like this one (90's trekking/city bike). When I got it, the headset seemed overtightened, when I took it apart I saw that it was somewhat damaged (looks like ridden for some time while being too loose). I noticed that the bottom bearing is needle, upper was regular ball bearing. I managed to get it together and tighten it just right, but I think it should replaced anyways.

Will I be able to replace it with ordinary ball bearing based headset (I guess I won't be able to find the same ball/needle set easily)? Are head tubes for threaded headsets all the same?


texts: Chain skipping on upper pulley of rear derailleur

texts:
Background: I have a full suspension mountain bike with SRAM GX Eagle components. I snapped my chain recently, and replaced it with a new one of the same model. Made sure to size it the same as the previous one.
After installing the new chain, I am now getting a slight skip on the upper pulley of the rear derailleur. Bike is rideable but want to fix this before I cause more damage. It looks like the chain is not completely aligned with the pulley almost. I haven’t looked at one in detail in great working condition so hard to compare.
The teeth of the pulley are a little worn, so I’m thinking of replacing those. Not sure if I need to replace the cage as well, is it easy to tell if it’s bent? Also not sure how to check if the hanger is in good condition either.
Also additional note that might help, my chainring is also quite worn, could that have to do with it? Was not happening with the old chain, which had stretched quite a bit (don’t have exact measurements)
What should I be checking/doing and in what order? Pretty new to bike maintenance and want to learn from some experts! Thank you in advance.


texts: Is there a difference between big chainring and big sprocket, and small chainring and small sprocket?

texts:
I am using a road bike as commuter its and old bike and have weird front gear selection 52 and 42.

So I took it to work this morning and thought that for a change I will ride it on big gears. While I was getting more tired and lowering the gear I had a thought is there actually a difference between going on low front and back gear and going high front and back gear, but both having the same gear ratio.


texts: Moving tfrom Shimano 9- to Shimano 10- speed

texts:
I'm thinking of changing the 9-speed Tiagra rear mech on one of my (road) bikes to something, still Shimano, but 10-speed.

The obvious replacements I'll need are cassette, right-shifter and chain. But I reckon because of the narrower chain I'm also looking at a new chainset and rear derailleur. However I think the front derailleur and left-shifter should be safe (still keeping the front mech the same). Ditto the bb, regardless of whether I need a new chainset

Has anyone actually done this conversion and is able to confirm (or put me right)?
Thanks

Update

Decided in the end that going from 9- to 10- was too much to spend all in one go. But I used a service as an excuse to change the cassette (to a 9-speed ultegra) and the chain (dura ace) at quite minimal cost. Can upgrade other parts as and when, although I'm basically looking at Shim's 6500 range here so all quite dated now.


texts: What is this tool for? Likely something to do with cables?

texts:
I found this thing in a box of bicycle tool mix I got some time ago. In the end this was the only one I could not identify, so I am asking here: What is this thing and what is it used for, please? I think it might be somehow used to manipulate with the cables. But since I do not know the name of the tool, I can’t look up for more info

Thanks!


texts: What crankset/chainrings on 1990's cyclocross

texts:
I am doing a small project on my secondary bike.  It's 28"/700c steel 1990's rigid mountain bike frame and I am converting it to a dropbar bike.  The theme is to make a "gravel" bike with 1990's tech.  It's an 8 speed system with a mountain bike rear derailleur (RD-M737, from 1994 like the frame) and a 12-32 cassette.  It has cantilever brakes.  The cockpit has a short road bike quill stem, a dropbar and I am intending to set it up with old series 2x8 Claris STI shifters.

What I would like, to keep it within the theme, is to use a crankset with gearing that would have been available at the time (so preferably not a 50/34).  I had assumed cyclocross specific chainrings would be a good candidate.  However I can't find much information on what kind of chainrings they used a the time, and then I even wondered if they maybe always ran 3x at the time (I hope not)...

Q: Does anyone know what kind of cranksets/chainrings were being used on (mid) 1990's cyclocross bikes?


texts: Jammed Giant brand U-Lock. Unable to insert key

texts:
The other day I locked my bike to a fence and upon my return about an hour later, I found the lock jammed. I am unable to insert my key fully into the keyhole. My friend suspects that while locking the bike, I might have removed the key too hastily, resulting in the lock pins being misaligned.

The lock is a Giant brand U-lock. The key goes in about half way and is unable to turn. I tried forcing the key to turn which resulted in me snapping the key (luckily, I have a spare). Any help in the matter is much appreciated.


texts: What bike+equipment for a long daily urban commute?

texts:
In the (distant) past I commuted 6 km (more than half an hour) each way, on a cheap bike with big knobbly tyres.

Soon I'll have a new commute: 18 km each way, daily. That's much further than I've done in the past, and I don't want it to take 2 hours each way; but this reading suggests that it's feasible:

  Most people who reside 10 to 20 kilometres away will also find it quite easy to cycle to work, although the distance in the high end of this range will become a little more demanding.

If I can do it in 80 minutes or even less each way, that would be ideal. I'm 49 years old, 6 foot tall, and weigh 170lb, and I want to commute by bike because otherwise I'd be getting no exercise in my week at all.

I've never bought or ridden anything but a cheap bike.

What equipment should I buy then, to commute 11 miles each way through a city (Toronto) on  flat, paved roads, shared with cars:

Wheels?
Tyres?
Clipless pedals and shoes?
Gears?
Handlebars (e.g. flat or dropped)?
Frame (size, shape, material)?
Mud-guard/fender?


texts: How should a competitive cyclist approach hills?

texts:
In this answer Daniel wrote,

  Mostly what ChrisW said. If you want to become a competitive cyclist you might want to do it differently, but if your goal is simply to enjoy your cycling while building some reasonable degree of strength and stamina then [etc.]

How would you do it differently if you want to become a competitive cyclist?

I don't mean "elite", just competitive.


texts:
I just experienced some uncommon cracks on the tires (Schwalbe Durano Plus)

The tires are pretty new (less than half year old, and used max. 1500 km).

I inflated 6 bars in the tire, and according to the specs 6-8 bars should be normal.
Is it possible that this cracks are caused by overinflation?
Should I immediately replace them or is it still safe to ride like this?


texts:
I'm new here and have a few questions if that's OK.

I have been wanting to get a bike to ride around the beach town I'm close to so I mentioned it to my husband he asked what I wanted and I said we could just pick one up at a thrift store and if it needed a few things we could fix it up.

Fast forward one week I was driving to the gas station at night and spotted a bike on the curb for trash pick up .You're gonna laugh but I thought well that's not in too bad of shape I would have bought that at a thrift store and I grabbed it and wrestled into my truck.

I knew something was up when I had to fight it so hard that sucker was heavy (I'm five foot tall ). I expected a Walmart beach cruiser considering where I live and this was way heavier than that.

I got it home and saw it was a JC Higgins bike. I haven't been able to find too much on what model it is so you have any ideas?

The tires hold air which shocked me to death lol and I have cleaned it up somewhat, things seem a little loose, there is something up with the seat it doesn't feel like it's on right so I'll have to figure that out but it's in pretty good shape considering its age and fate as trash. Do you all have any advice to fix it up?

Here's a picture lease excuse he mess we just had a tree come through the roof during Irma and everything is moved and jumbled around lol.


texts:
From my experience, I've learned that Slime will plug/seal a small hole in a tube. Sometimes the tube needs to be inflated 2 or 3 times for hole to seal.

If a glueless patch is applied over a small hole, the Slime will eventually loosen the patch. The Slime will seal the hole if the patch is removed.

I have a tube with a large hole that Slime isn't sealing. What are some ways to patch it?

I'd like to try to patch it with a piece of tube and rubber cement:

scuff both the tube and piece
apply the rubber cement to the tube and piece
allow to dry
apply piece


texts: Bike comes with frame integrated bolt seatpost clamp - can I cut it off and use QR?

texts:
I've got a Marin Pine Mountain 1 2016 - it comes with a frame integrated bolt seatpost clamp. Is it possible to cut this off and use a QR seatpost clamp instead?

Bike :

Seat Clamp :


texts:
I am completely new to cycling and purchased a road bike equipped with Tektro Lyra mechanical disc brakes. I have ridden an estimated 20 miles total so far and was unaware that there was a bedding in process for the brake system. My question is, how loud are the brakes supposed to be while in low to moderate use? My brakes have an slightly annoying grinding noise which sounds like metal on metal - no squealing, and they seem to shudder slightly when i pull hard on brake. I've tried reading articles and other questions to see if i can fix the issue however i am still a bit confused.

If they were not bedded in properly is there something i can do instead of purchasing new pads and rotor?

Any suggestions on if this is normal during the break in period or if i should do something else to remedy the situation?


texts: My rear brakes squeal like crazy, but not when they are wet!

texts:
I am a new cyclist in Bonn, Germany. Someone gave me a free bike that is very nice, but the rear brakes squeal like crazy, and the weird thing is that when it rains and they are wet, they don't squeal at all, which is the opposite of what I have read, since often people's brakes only squeal when they are wet. What could this mean? Any ideas of how to solve this problem, other than pouring water on my brakes on purpose? Lol! The brakes are new and they work fine, just to give you more information. Also adding that they are rim brakes.

I know a lot of people don't care about squealing brakes, but I mean we're talking, if rode my bike past 11 pm I could wake up entire apartment buildings! And I seem to be the only person in Bonn with this problem, so I'm not going to lie, it's embarrassing. I definitely get looks too! I could just get a new bike but I guess I'm wondering if there is possibly a simple solution. I already asked a bike repair shop and they didn't think anything could be done, but that was also before I had this piece of information that they don't squeal when wet.

They are rim brakes.


texts: What tools are most important on an all-in-one bike tool for a commuter?

texts:
My commute is about 25km/day.  I have a cheapish hybrid bike with Shimano gears, v-brakes and SPD pedals.  I carry a small hand pump and spare tube.

What do I need in a bike tool/ multitool or other spares?


texts: Project idea: Upgrade old MTB to road groupset for commuter?

texts:
I'm thinking of building up a fat-tire commuter bike. I need fenders, racks and wide tires since I live in the northwest (potholes, rain, more rain, hills). I also need it to be fast since I want to be fast on my commute.

I was thinking about buying an old MTB and replacing the groupset with something like the Shimano 105. There's plenty of nice old steel MTBs on Craigslist for ~$100. I would essentially only want the frame.

The dropout spacing on the old MTBs is 130mm, just like the 105 hubs. I'd have new 26" wheels built around those hubs and use the 105 crankset, rear and front derailleurs. I'd also put in a drop bar and I think I should be able to use the 105 brifters with the MTB cantilever brakes. Then I'd finish it off with tires like gatorskins or marathons.

Does that sound reasonable? Anything I forgot to think of?


texts:
I have a Shimano Ultegra RD-6700 rear derailleur with a 10 speed Shimano 105 5700 11-28 cassette and Shimano R565, 50/34 (compact) up front.

I would really like a larger gear for climbing. Can I go to a cassette with a larger than 28t that would not require a new derailleur?

I see that in Shimano 105 5700 cassette series only goes up to 11-28,
but the Ultegra 6700 10 speed goes to 12-30. Is there another cassette that I could use that goes to -32t?

How can I tell if I have the RD-6700-SS (capacity 33t) or the RD-6700-GS that has the 39t capacity? It only has "Shimano RD-6700 Japan VIA" stamped on the back. It's the one that came with my 2013 Trek Madone 4.5.

I assume that I have to stick with a 10 speed cassette in any case. Are there any options beside the Ultegra 6700 12-30 that would fit?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

EDIT: I measured the distance between the centers of the jockey wheels, and its about 6cm, so it looks like I do have the short version.

Is it possible to go from a 10 speed to an 11 speed cassette, like the Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-32, without changing the shifter? I realize that I would have to change the rear D to something like the Shimano Ultegra 6800 GS, which says it can handle up to an 11-32.

I didn't see any options for changing the the front chainrings, it seems like the 50/34 compact is the only one that fits this bike.


texts: Can I use a Tubular tyre in a Clincher rim?

texts:
Just tried it - my trekking clincher rim was too deep, so have to use 4 layers of tape to keep side out of rim, but then tubular started to travel forward even during slow acceleration.

Would you try to use glue on all 4 layers + tubular, some special tape or change rim ?

No surprise seller told me it is possible...


texts: What year make and model of my haro frame

texts: I have a haro frame that I believe is a 1986 haro group 1 but the only difference is that it doesn't have a place for the kickstand like the rest I've seen


texts: Can you use SRAM 11-spd trigger shifters such as NX and GX with Shimano 11-spd derailleurs such as SLX and XT?

texts: I have read some threads that say these work well together and solve the hard shifting issue with the Shimano shifters.


texts: Why is track cycling done counter-clockwise?

texts:
As far as I have seen, track cycling is only done anti-clockwise/counter-clockwise/with only left turns, yet looking through what I can find (in a non exhaustive search) I cannot find any mention of this in the rules and regulations, is there a rule or regulations stating that track cycling must be anticlockwise or is it just convention? Or have I missed some clockwise track riding anywhere?

For clarification, by track cycling I am referring to riding round a velodrome


texts: Removing stuck front brake caliper from a modern road bike

texts: I'm trying to remove the front brake caliper from my Specialized Allez.  It took me a long time, a lot of effort, and plenty of 3-in-1 to finally loosen and remove the recessed nut that screws onto the caliper bolt.  I expected that the caliper would then come off the forks with ease but unfortunately this didn't happen.  Am I missing something here or should the caliper be able to be removed when the nut is undone and removed from the bolt?  As I mentioned, the recessed nut was really difficult to remove and there was a bit of rust around it.  Maybe the bolt has rusted to the forks too.  If so, any tips for removing the bolt and caliper?


texts: How to keep bikes safe while camping with a car

texts:
I'm planning to make a trip through Europe this year with my girlfriend. Bikes are going to travel on a roof rack. We are going to sleep on campgrounds in tents most of the time. So my biggest concern is how to store our bikes safe while we're asleep or gone somewhere on foot.

My only idea is to detach front wheels and put them in the trunk of my SUV each time. Also hiding them under some kind of blanket would be necessary not to draw attention of the potential thief (we ride Canyon Nerve & Trek X-Caliber).


texts: So I am building my own trainer/stand for my bike but I am hung up on one part. What is the official term for the part that attaches to the hex bolt on the rear wheel?


texts:
When I'm in the highest (smallest) gear and pedaling hard, it sometimes "jumps".  I'm not sure if that's the right word, but I feel a bump in my feet for a moment and then I continue pedaling.  It feels like I'm shifting gears, but I'm not.  I've spent some time today adjusting the rear derailleur, and all the other gears are good.  Could this be caused by a worn out sprocket?  I don't use this gear all that often, so I'm not sure why it would wear out faster than the others.  Pedaling moderately is fine, this only happens when I push hard.

This is a 9-speed Shimano Sora.


texts: 29" wheels - what advantage do they provide over smaller wheels?

texts: I was wondering what advantages 29" wheels give. From what I understand they are well suited to mountain biking. Are they any use on road bikes perhaps?


texts: Road 10 to 11 speed upgrade, what needs to change?

texts:
Hope all is well.
Currently I have a Cervelo P2 2013 with an Ultegra 10 speed.
I would like to upgrade the drive train from the current 10 speed to an 11 speed setup (either the 105 or the Ultegra). The main question that I have is how do I know which bottom bracket do I need to get for the 11 speed setup to work correctly? Apparently it has a FSA Gossamer Mega Exo bottom bracket currently.
Is there anything else that I would need to consider besides the below:

cassette
derailleurs (front and back)
chain rings
chain
TT gear levers

The current brakes that are on the bike feel fine so I don't need to change those and I have 11 speed compatible rims (Campag Zonda's).
http://www.bikeroar.com/products/cervelo/p2-ultegra-2013/specs


texts:
I'm a complete novice with bicycle maintenance and have a slight problem.  I just picked up a 2nd hand bike as taking part in a charity event this weekend and an unfortunate accident meant my mine was totalled and I couldn't afford to be picky.

The bike is an 04 Giant OCR Zero with Campagnolo groupset.  An okish bike and would've been fine as a temporary machine.  I wasn't able to test ride as my knee is still battered and when I got home I flipped the bike and ran through the gears.

we have 3 on front and 9spd at the rear.  When using the biggest ring at the back and biggest at the front, the tension on the chain is so great that it cannot move.  If the rear is in mid position or lower then it transitions ok but not otherwise.

Any help or advice on how to fix is appreciated.  I thought changing the chain might solve but the chain on there is a 9 spd and as far I know, it should be fine.  replacing it with the same length would just result in the same problem.

Edited to add pics and info.
Apologies for incorrect use of tension. I've taken a few pics(hopefully they've attached ok) showing the different states of the rear mech as I transition through the gears. There is a lot of crud but no slack on the chain at all

Thanks again!


texts: Can I measure my bottom bracket size without removing the cranks?

texts:
I don't have a LBS (there are BS, but not L), so I generally order everything I need online. I need to replace the bottom bracket on my commuter bike, which I know is a VP-BC73 but that BB's available in sizes from 107 mm to 127.5 mm and I'm not sure what size I'll need. The bike has a 28-38-48 triple front chainring.

I plan on using a Sunrace BB as the replacement, which is available in 103, 107, 111, 113, 118, 122, 124, and 127 mm lengths (italics are out of stock at my preferred supplier).

The obvious answer here is to take the BB out and measure it; trouble is, there's no crank puller or BB tool available—I'll be ordering these with the new BB. I've also tried contacting the bike's manufacturer (a bicycle chain store—I know), but they've been non-responsive.

The best I've managed so far was an attempt to measure the distance from the outside of one crank to the other (at the BB), then remove the crank bolts and subtract the distances from the outside of the crank to the end of the bottom bracket axle. This gave a (rudimentary, at best!) measurement of 129 mm.

I can possibly order a couple of BBs and return one, but I'd really like to be able to narrow it down that much, at least. Is it better to be too long, or too short (or does it really need to be exact)?

UPDATE: I measured the chainline yesterday, it's 53 mm at the front (I know that's wide, but that's what it is) and 48.5 mm at the back. The rear cassette is a 7-speed Shimano 14-28.


texts: Does handlebar tape go inside the bar, under the bar-end shifter, when using bar-end shifters?

texts: I'm installing bar-end shifters for the first time (Shimano 9-speeds, for what it's worth) and was wondering if I should be running the tape over the bottom of the handlebar with surplus to insert into the bar.  In the past, I've done this and used wine corks or handlebar caps to hold the tape in.  When using cloth tape, this is no problem; foam/cork tape usually is fine too.  But is it the same with bar-end shifters?


texts: Yesterday evening, my Kryptonite U-Lock was pretty stiff when I unlocked it after work.  The key turned fine, but removing the shackle from the crossbar took a few minutes of pulling and jiggling.  I eventually was able to separate the two, ride home, and lock the bike up outside.  This morning, I couldn't separate the two, even after 10 minutes of finagling.  The key turns 180 degrees and presumably the lock is open, but the two parts will not separate.  I put some tri flow on the joint, no luck.  What is causing this?  How can I remove the lock, and prevent this from happening again?  For what it's worth, these have probably been the two coldest days of winter so far in my area.


texts: Changing from a triple ring Shimano Sora chainset to a double ring chainset

texts:
I've got a Scott S40 Speedster and I'm considering changing to a double chainset from the triple I have at present, also going from a 9 speed cassette to a 10. Not sure whats involved, do I need new wheels and a group set.

Much appreciate some guidence.


texts: Chain skipping and loud noise when pedalling

texts: Last year I changed old chain, all cables, rear and front derailleurs with new cheapest shimano parts. It has 7 speed cassette with tourney 6/7 speed rear derailleur. As summer started I took this bike for a ride and then immediatelly noticed this strange thing. When I pedal harder there is a loud noise which looks like is coming from rear wheel (feels like chain would slip) end and then it seems like the chain would slip and my feet goes all way in and there is just loss of force. Basically the bike is unusable whenever you try to pedal any harder. I tried to see if there is actual slippage of chain but it doesn't look like that is happening. Then I tried to inspect if  freehub is somehow skipping as I read somewhere that this could be the problem, but it engages correctly and doesn't slip. The cassette is quite old but it's teeth still look ok. I tried to change chain, all cables and even tried different casette. But the problem persists. I tried to readjust both derailleurs. When I try test this without actually sitting on bike and pedalling this never happens. Gears are shifting smoothly. However, when I sit on the bike and try to pedal. Immediatelly this chain slipping sound happens and pedalling becomes useless.


texts:
First attempt at a bike tuneup.  Day 2.  I just replaced the front brake pads and finally got them with enough space so there is no rub on the rim.  Now I squeeze the right brake lever and it applies the brake properly but I have to pull it all the way to the bike handle (pic1). So the brakes do work but I though I should leave space between handle and lever when brake is applied.

So, here is what I have tried: Adjusting the V brake cable (pic2) - however, if I tighten this the brakes will rub against the rim.  I also tweaked the brake adjuster near the brake lever (pic3) but this does the same and creates rim rub. Also note that both of these methods do not appear to resolve the slack.

Grateful for any help!


texts:
I recently got a fixed gear bike and I rode it about 5 times. I live in an urban part of the city. I've never rode a fixie before or know much about bikes in general and I knew it would be difficult to ride a fixie since it's only one single gear and you can't stop pedaling.

I did notice how hard it was to pedal at first but after a few blocks I would get so tired I'd have to get off the bike to rest, especially against the wind sometimes. Now when I ride it takes a lot of leg power to go but then I become so tired after riding for a little bit. Is this normal? Does it take getting used to riding a fixed gear? Or is there something wrong with my bike.

I just think it's not right that a bike that a lot of people claim to say that it's the best easy to ride bike can make me unbearably tired after riding it for a few blocks. I just want to know why this is happening and if it's normal.


texts: Minimum mountain bike trekking/touring equipment

texts:
Consider a one week trip in nature, with bikes. Daily routes are to be about 60km with 2000m total elevation change per day (climb, then descend). The group is of 2-5 people. Weather is summer (maybe down to 5 centigrade at night, not sure about rain).

My question is how can we pack smart, so that we can sleep on the trail.

For the bike a multi-tool, tube patches, 1 extra tube, quicklink, pump and chain lube. Anything else?

For food: about 3.5kg of food per rider, or half of that if we pass through mountain huts. Options.

Now, the real question is about sleeping gear. Sleeping bags are bulky and heavy. Here probably the smart move is to get a summer down bag. But what about the sleeping mat? Those are light but very bulky. I am afraid that tying one of the standard foam ones to the backpack will not only create air drag on the descents, but will also catch on vegetation adjacent to the trail. Unfortunately, they are also quite essential.

Any ideas how can we pull this off? How do we carry functional sleeping equipment and still not be too encumbered to ride?


texts: Stiff, hard to use poplock, rockshox recon silver

texts: My bike is equipped  with front suspension Rockshox Recon Silver with PopLock remote lock. The use of that control is VERY stiff and HARD to lock (very easy to unlock though). Every time I need to lock it, I must use carefully my right hand. How can I soften it in order to use it with my single, left thumb? Obviously the problem is not on the lever or its wire, but into the suspension itsself.


texts: Is this crank usable or should it be replaced?

texts:
I've been suffering from weird noises while pedalling for a couple of weeks.  Noise has been isolated to the left foot, its definitely not the right side.

After an inspection revealed no cracks or other badness,  I pulled the left crank off with a puller.

  The lip around the presser on the right hand side of the image?  That's compressed outward, and once I got the crank off the pusher of the puller was wedged in the taper.

The other two sides are only lightly marked.  The two sides pictured are the worst damage.

The crank was cleaned and refitted with a light coating of copper slip on the facing surfaces and it seems to be functioning fine.  But

Question: Is this crank safe?  Or is it vulnerable to further damage?


texts: Are road bike saddles more comfortable in the drops?

texts:
I have a Specialized Ruby and recently bought a the Ruby Expert saddle to get into racing (crits and gran fondos). The saddle is comfortable and pretty much disappears when I'm riding in the drops, but is uncomfortable when I am riding on the hoods, which is most of the time. Is this normal or a just bad fit?

I rode it yesterday for 30 miles with a medium chamois.


texts: Troubleshooting Noise from Avid BB-7 Road Disc Brakes

texts:
I'm trying to track down a dragging sound from some Avid BB-7 brakes on a Kona Sutra. The hub is a Shimano Alfine DH-S501 dynamo hub with an SM-RT82 Centerlock disc. The noise sounds like a dragging pad, but, so far, I've been unable to make it go away. Here's what I've done so far:

Trued the rotor – runout is < 0.05 mm measured using a dial indicator on the rotor in a truing stand.
Aligned caliper to the rotor by loosening the caliper mounting bolts, then tightening the adjusters to clamp the rotor between the pads, and finally retorting the mounting bolts.
Checked pad thickness (wear limit), the pads are tapered, the thickness is about 3.6 mm at the outside of the rotor and about 4.0 mm at the inside.
Checked the hub bearings – the disc side locknut was loose, but the cones seem to be well adjusted. In the truing stand I can cause about 0.1 mm of deflection at the disc with lateral pressure at the rim. That doesn't seem excessive…

As I was looking at the brakes, I noticed that the pads seem to be closer to the rotor at the outside (like their resting configuration is 'V' shaped). As I adjust the pads I start to hear dragging sounds well before the brake travel is reasonable (the lever will go all the way to the bars, and I can move the wheel by hand when the lever is bottomed out). There seems to be a reasonable (i.e., way more than the runout in the disc) amount of space between the pads and the disc where I can see.

I also noticed that the pads themselves do not sit parallel in the caliper. With the adjusters backed all the way out, I can get one side or the other to sit against the frame of the caliper, but the other is slightly angled. It seems like the spring is not pushing out evenly.

Any ideas about what I should do next? Should the pads be tapered / sit in a 'V'?


texts: Can I setup my road bike, mountain bike, and fat bike with the same set of shoes with MTB SPD cleats?

texts:
Can I setup my road bike, mountain bike, and fat bike with the same set of MTB SPD cleats?

Basically I have 3 bikes with VERY different cranksets and Q-factors that range from 148mm to 164mm to 230mm.  I have the same Shimano MTB SPD style pedals on each of the bikes.

Is it reasonable to expect that I won’t have any ill effects from setting up my shoes on one bike and using the same shoes across all bikes? Or will I have knee issues from having my body aligned differently on each bike’s crankset due to the difference in Q-factor / stance width?


texts: Can you help identify this classy, German-built city bike?

texts:
I rode this bike in Germany in the summer and it was great.

I'd like to buy it but I didn't write down the brand, model, or anything.

I just remember that it said on the frame, quite proudly, that it was made in Germany.

It had a 3-gear hub and built-in dynamo lights.


texts: Frame with bottle cage boss ripped out - how serious is the damage?

texts:
I'm a huge fan of Greg Lemond so naturally when this frame showed up in my local Facebook page with just the frame and headset, no fork. I got very excited. The seller says that the bottle cage boss was ripped out, and that it wouldn't be a big problem for the frame's structural integrity. This is the only issue with the frame.

Is this a major problem? Would it be an expensive fix? The frame is a 2000 Lemond Zurich in Reynolds 853 55cm x 57cm.


texts:
Here on bicycles SE I often read questions about right sizing of a bike, how you should sit on a bike, what to do when some part of your body hurts etc. I also came across the answer

  Go to a local bike shop and have a bike-fit

quite often.

I wonder how this "bike-fit" is done? How can I do it myself?


texts:
I have a normal ranger bike without gears, I've had this bike for quite a while now, been 8 years. But recently it's chain has started slipping off. I have maintained it well, changed the chain a couple of times and got new tyres twice.

What could be the reason of the chain slipping? I always tell my bike guy to fix it permanently, on which he bluntly says, "there ain't a permanent fix". I ride it to work everyday so I can't afford these intermittent slip offs. Recently I went to a new repair shop where he told me I should get the rear wheel axle changed. Could it be the axle or the hub?
Is there any way to find out. Coz everytime I go to the guy complaining that the chain is slipping off, he just aligns the wheel and says it won't happen now. LOL

I have used SO for a lot of other queries related to other walks of life. Hoping for a positive response.


texts:
I have a new saddle and I want to buy a compatible seatpost. The saddle rails is CARBON 7x9 as specified by the manifacturer.

I want to understand better the compatibility of this kind of oval rails. Some seatpost manifacturers specify compatibility, here is an example:

  Rail Compatibility    Round and Square Rails

from http://www.zipp.com/seatposts/sl-speed-seatpost--0-/

However, in most other cases, the compatibility is not specified.

Should I assume 7x9 is compatible by default with any seatpost or not?

Edit Follow-up Note: I happened to notice that some manifacturers offer the options of clamps for different size of rails, this is from the Thomson page, for example:

This seems to suggest that there is some difference between the clamps I have to pick.


texts:
anyone know where or how I can get a rubber insert for either presta or schrader head on my joe blow max floor pump? Just bought it and schrader head did NOT have an insert so it won't grab the valve. Is this a Topeak product? Would Topeak send me one??
Mike
Cambridge, MA


texts:
I am thinking about commuting to school on my bike and wanted some advice on it. I do live in a very bike friendly neighborhood, but the thought of turning left on a 40mph road (no stop lights nearby and people speed) does scare me a bit.

What are your recommendations for turning left?
Thank you in advance!


texts: Replacing Tiagra 9-speed shifter with 9-speed 105 or Sora shifters

texts:
So my handlebars were stolen from my Salsa Casseroll the other night, levers and all. (Argh.) The bike has a Tiagra 9 speed triple drivetrain, and Shimano discontinued Tiagra 9 speed hardware, leaving me with only Sora shifter to buy new. On ebay old tiagra 9 speed triple levers that aren't beaten up are hard to come by, but I'm seeing some 105 9-speed triple shifters that look reasonable. Are those compatible with my Tiagra parts? Will I notice any performance difference? Or should I just suck it up and get the Sora levers? (Guy at my LBS looked down his nose at their quality a bit, which has me leery.)
Thanks for any help.


texts: So I have an old Schwinn Crossfit MTB that Ive loved and had for a long time and recently wanted to fix and upgrade it a bit. I wanted to know about the crankshaft compatibility for it, as ill im able to figure out is that its a 28/38/48 Shimano Tourney, and I was curious if it was compatible with the newer ones of the same brand and name. Yes this is not the best bike, and its also not my only bike, but its more a sentimental thing and a good opportunity to learn more about replacing and figuring out crankshafts for more experience and future work. Thanks so much for your feedback!


texts:
Rider_X refers to "guttering the Peleton" in his answer to this question.

What is "Guttering the peloton"?


texts:
Hi members friend got a dohiker ebike off ebay got it went for a ride came home and everything was fine...
plugged it in to charge and then just stopped working pedal assist works and walking mode works but when to turn the throttle nothing won't work ..
I had a friend come look at it tonight he bypassed the throttle an nothing ..  its very strange