texts: To what extent is grease interchangeable?

texts: There is a confusing variety of greases for various bike parts out there. I wonder if I can just disregard that and use a 'one-size-fits-all' grease (if such a grease exists?


texts: Difference in brakes and switcher cables?

texts:
I want to change all the cables in my bike. My knowledge in bikes is limited. As i found there are cables for the brakes and cables for the shifters. My question is: are those cables all the same? i.e. if I want to change the shifters and brakes cables, should I only buy two quantities of breaks cables?

Because I found these http://www.fahrrad.de/fahrradteile/felgenbremsen-zubehoer/clarks-universal-bremszug-komplett-kit-vorne/337558.html and I wonder if I should order two quantities or one of this and some other kind of cables for the shifter.

p.s. do I need to buy a cable for each brake handle? Does that mean I need to buy 2 just for the brakes and also 2 for the shifters? Viz, 4 boxes of that in the website?


texts: Where does the name "B-Tension" come from?

texts: Why is the "B-Tension" adjustment screw so called? Does it stand for anything, have there been A and C adjustments, or is there another reason for its name?


texts: Installing fat bike tires on a BSO for winter riding(condition of averaging -23 C for 2*17km). Is it doable, safe?

texts: As for my other question Winter riding: Is it safe to ride on a BSO/cheap bike at temperatures below -15°C on icy or damp roads? I've got a lot of suggestions of getting studded tires for winter roads. The road I take is not very well maintained and there's a lot of bumps and ice... and salt. BUT! I still haven't abandoned my plan of commuting in winter Montreal. Though I haven't seen anyone mentioning fat bike tires. The idea came when I went window shopping for studded tires prices and saw fat bike tires as a cheaper investment. Although I do not know whether it is feasible or not to install them on my BSO.  My BSO is 21" and I will need to ride 2*16 km everyday (commuting).


texts:
Please give me the benefit of your expertise.

I'm 6'3" (190 cm) tall and, though I have the largest sized-mountain bike available I'm bent over as I cycle because I can't push back my saddle any more on its rails.

Is there any way that to remedy this situation?


texts: What are the disadvantages of wearing an aero helmet?

texts:
During the Olympic Final of the Men's Keirin one competitor (Chris Hoy) was wearing an aero helmet (red helmet in the picture below), the other competitors wore normal helmets:

The advantages of wearing an aero helmet seem pretty obvious - less drag so you go quicker (Chris Hoy won the gold medal).

However, most of the competitors did not wear an aero helmet so I can only assume that there are some disadvantages to wearing an aero helmet, what are they?


texts: What are the advantages and disadvantages of ordering a bicycle from a large online retailer, for example Bikes Direct (i.e. not Walmart's website)? What should an inexperienced bicycle shopper be aware of when buying online?


texts:
I'm trying to mount a blackburn central rear bike rack on my Kona Dew bike. I'm on step two of the four step instructions and cannot seem to fit the extender rod through the cam lock when the cam lock is on the post of the rack as instructed. Has anyone else dealt with this problem and have a solution?

From https://www.blackburndesign.com/p/central-rear-bike-rack


texts: Tektro Spyre C — is the rotor riveted to the hub?

texts:
I recently bought the Cube Nuroad FE. I features Tektro Spyre C mechanical disk brakes, and I am underwhelmed by their stopping performance, especially on the rear wheel. I am thinking about changing the rotor and the pads, however after inspecting the bike it seems the rotor is not screwed to the hub but actually is riveted to it.

Can somebody confirm this?


texts: RB not ridden in 4 years unable to shift gear

texts:
After a bit of advice. I recently dusted down my Carrera after a 4 year stint in the shed. Knowing that it had a few issues I dropped it in to my local Halfords store. It required a few things mending with the most relevant to this issue being the rear derailleur.

I get home and decide to go for a quick ride and find that I’m unable to shift gear at all. There isn’t really any tension in the shifters and the chain is currently on the smallest cog. The obvious thing to do would be to drop it back in but if it’s something I’m able to sort then I’d rather get it done myself!

Images below although I’m not sure if it helps in any way.

Thanks in advance


texts: What are the directions for removing the bottom bracket bearing caps?

texts: I am trying to re-purpose a Mongoose MTB frame I was given. The crank axle is "wobbly" within its housing.  I want to get into the housing to replace the bearings, but can't for the life of me, remember the directions to remove the end caps!  I know from experience that if I get the direction wrong I'll end up tightening the cap!  Pics would be advantageous, all help appreciated.


texts: What to look for when buying cyclo-cross or road bike under 600eu/650usd?

texts:
I really want a fast bicycle, that I could use in winter, summer, rain & snow to commute to work. After some research I found out that there is a cool option of cyclo-cross bikes that are build for speed, but can have better tires, mud protection... (winter/rain).

I would use bike mainly to commute to work, usually would ride bicycle on city roads (no off-road or mountain driving). Danish weather is usually moody (rain, little ice here and there) therefore I want something that could have more durable and stable tires.

So again, i came across cyclo-cross bikes and now I was wondering if it is possible to buy a good one under 600eur. Talked with colleagues that have great bikes and they started talking about gears, breaks, handles... and in the end of conversation they summed up that the bike will cost at-least 1500eur.

The thing is, it would be my first 'good' bike and I am not going to go pro or whatever (just commute in different weather). So I decided that I can only spent up 600eur and then I wonder what is the most important things to look for in the bike.

I appreciate any suggestions, tips, help or direction where I should look for bikes to buy/order. Thanks! :)


texts: I'm a 5'9 male- is this 51cm frame road bike too small?

texts:
looking to get into this and after a fair bit of looking I've found this bike. Photos here: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-view-details.html?adId=1245748386

It says 51cm frame and Medium, but everything I can find online suggests that a medium mens should be 54cm ish? Just wondering if anyone has had experience with the brand or could suggest whether it may be suitable.Thanks!


texts: What does this rod inside the my american classic seat post do?

texts:
I've got an american classic seatpost. I bought it used, and wasn't sure how to properly adjust it initially. I found the bolt on the bottom clamps the seat down. The bolt on the rear underside adjusts the saddle angle.

But the bolt on the front was a mystery. I took the post out and looked at it and you can see that the bolt on the front of the post connects to this rod inside the post.

The rod has a fixed end which is inserted up in to the seat tube, and the bottom of the rod is threaded and has a small alloy knob on the bottom. It appears to flare at the bottom and has a slit in the bottom of the seat tub where this knob rests. I have no idea how you would tighten this from outsidem But it looks almost like you could tighten it like a stem for a treaded headset.

What is this for and why did they include this on the seatpost?

Seatpost

Close up of bottom of Seatpost with Rod (You can't see it, but there is a slit in the font of the seatpost)

Rod Removed from Seatpost

Bolt on front of Seatpost


texts:
I'm a beginner trying to get on a road bike. I've been shopping around for a new bike for the last week and am also toying with the idea of getting a gently used "pre-owned".

One of the guys I've talked to, has said that he has only put around 250 miles on the bike. Is there  a way to determine that this info is right? What do I look for to make sure that he is not bluffing.


texts:
Will a Race Face 'single' chainring be compatible with a sunrace cassette, taking into account both are designed for 10 speed 1x set-up?
Can I use the same chainring securing bolts as I currently have; being: Shimano SLX 2x set-up?

Thanks,
Cameron


texts: How To Prevent Holes Around The Inner-tube Valve?

texts: In the last two months I have experienced something new: three inner-tubes (700X25) have popped with holes immediately around the valve and on the same side of the tube as the valve. I suspect there is a deficit of support for the tube as the hole in the rim for the valve is slightly larger than necessary (1-2mm bigger in diameter that I would think best). Should I replace the rim-tape? How may the proper support be imparted to the inner-tube around the valve?


texts: How/where can I find replacements for these 'wheel bearing caps'?

texts:
I have started the restoration of a bike picked up from the bins. The bike has taken some abuse. The rear wheel axle was broken, same for the two "bearings" caps or dust seals. I am not sure how to name these. I am providing pictures here for illustration https://imgur.com/a/fKflsyx
It was really to get a replacement for the bearings and the axle, but that cap piece - maybe because of not knowing its name - I am not able to see it for sale anywhere. I am not sure how standard or custom these pieces are. The hub has no brand or logo. The bike is a carrera zelos if this helps.


texts:
I have an aluminum seatpost in a steel seat tube and I have been noticing some slippage lately. The size of the seatpost and of the seat collar match perfectly the size of the frame. I inspected the seatpost inside and everything looks OK there as well: there is no grease, neither dirt. From a web search, I see that this problem is common for carbon seatposts/frames and there are solutions for that (fiber grip gel, for example). It's not as common for aluminium seat posts.

The seat collar manufacturer suggests a torque of 2.8 Nm on the bolt and I double-checked that as well. My last hypothesis of what can cause the slippage is the fact that I have a brake hanger for a cantilever brakes on the seat collar.

  Is it possible that because of the seat hanger the seat collar doesn't clamp the post correctly? Should I try to increase the torque on the seat collar bolt because of the brake hanger?

Edit (includes solution)

I closed the seat collar on 3Nm without the hanger and realized that the gap is way too small for the hanger to fit there, see the picture. This would explain why the collar wouldn't clamp perfectly, although I haven't tried to ride it and verify that the seatpost is no longer slipping, but I am confident this is the solution.

.


texts:
I bought a used bike whose chain keeps slipping, and I believe it is because either the chainring or the bottom bracket is bent. I tried to show this as best as I could in the below pictures.

I am looking to replace the chainring, but I can't for the life of me figure out what its real BCD is. It's a 5 bolt, and the adjacent bolt distance seems to be ~91mm, with a measured BCD of ~166mm. The below pictures show the taking of these measurements with a tape.

If I calculate the BCD from the adjacent bolt distance, it comes out very differently from what I am measuring it directly with the tape, and, even if it didn't, either of the numbers seem way off from whatever chainset BCD sizes I am able to find out there - unless this one is a very uncommon one? I mention that the bike is a 20 inch foldable Ecosmo mountain bike, 6 gear shimano. I haven't been able to find manufacturer info on it, but the chainring does have "9902-222-118-52T" inscribed on it, and the brand seems to be "Powerwheel". It has 52 teeth.
What am I doing wrong when measuring the BCD, and what chainring replacement sizes would be suitable for this bike?


texts: Pedals with largest outside platform area

texts:
I am 86 years of age with RA and badly splayed out feet. I already have pedal extenders on my custom 350 watt ebike trike (on a Biria frame) and have wrapped rug/carpet laying  tape around the pedals with the rough gritty surface up - to no avail.

I have tried Amazon and eBay and can't identify a wide platform bike pedal that might solve my problem. Does any body out there have a solution or recommendation. Be an angel. Mike Crombie


texts: Switching from 3x9 Gears to Cheaper Ones?

texts:
Alert I am unsure of the right terminology for gear-wheel but I mean the round things near pedals such as 3x9 or typically with 3x7 (3 front, 7 back) mix in commuting bikes.

My current gears are 3x9 (3 front, 9 back) but I plan to change to cheaper, the current gear-wheels are used (about 15k km, 4winters and 3 summer).

Can I put other gears such as 1x7 or somehow reuse the old gears?
What should I take into account when choosing other gear-wheels and gears?

There is nothing problem with my current ones, they work fine (a bit slower than as new but not a problem) but I cannot spend too much on upgrading the gears/gear-wheels. I need to know what to look for in second-hand stores or to find some sort of compromise i.e. perhaps to upgrade things slowly part-by-part.


texts: Are there any online bike route planning options that allow 5-10 mile incriments?

texts:
I would like a bike route going from Camas, WA to Onalaska, WA. I would like something that is the shortest distance with as few streets and turns as possible. Both the routes I find at Google Maps and Mapquest have about 4 dozen different roads. I am not kidding, see for yourself.

I would also like to print this out in such a way that I can mark each 5 mile point. I want to know when I have hit 5 miles, then 10, then 15, all the way up to 90. Finally I would like to avoid the freeway as much as possible, especially since it is probably not legal for me to travel on parts of it via bicycle.

If there is a printed map I should buy for this instead, please provide the details, including where I can buy it online, and if it is not available to buy online, where I can buy it in the Vancouver, Washington area.

Thank you!


texts: Help me understand bottom brackets and cranks

texts:
I have a Norco Threshold cyclocross bike (http://www.norco.com/bikes/road/cyclocross/threshold-carbon/threshold-sl-ultegra/)
. It has a PF30 bottom bracket and an FSA Energy Cross PF30 46/36T crank.

The BB is making a lot of clicking and creaking noises, and if this cannot be fixed, I am thinking about replacing the bottom bracket with a Praxis Conversion BB (http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/). That BB is designed to replace a PF30 BB. It is supposed to work with "Shimano™ Hollowtech II steel spindle road cranks only".  Praxis also offers variants of the same Conversion BB for Shimano Mountain, SRAM road/mountain, Campagnolo. I assume I can ignore the Campagnolo variant.

I am trying to figure out if it will work with my existing FSA Energy Cross crank. I am unable to tell what the difference is between various types of cranks. A lot of websites talk about "24mm standard" but I have no idea what that means. Is it the same as Shimano Hollowtech 2 ?  What characteristics must be the same for two cranks to be compatible ? Diameter, Length, something else ?

This is the crank: http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-cyclocross/energy-cyclocross-crankset-4636-bb30/  On the page, it says "BB30", but it also has a "PF30" logo. Does that mean it works with both types of bottom brackets ?


texts:
The title says it all. I would like to change the bearings for my headset,but i have no idea if this crown race is removable.
It is a Bontrager fork, probably from 2007.
Thank you,
From Norway.


texts: replacing a chain - which coating type or make (nickel vs silver vs TI Nitride vs diamond like)?

texts:
I've been riding a 2017 Giant AnyRoad CoMax for about 2.5 months now and today I checked the chain wear with a Park Tool Chain Wear Indicator:

http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-wear-indicator-CC-3-2

The wear is between 0.5 and .075.  I plan on replacing the chain when it gets to .75, which is probably about a month away, perhaps slightly less.

So, its time to look at ordering a replacement chain.  Upon going to the web page for the bike:

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/anyroad-comax

The specification for the chain is "KMC X11", seems simple enough, but upon searching Amazon for "KMC X11":

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=KMC+X11&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AKMC+X11

or the KMC page for 11 speed chains:

http://kmcchain.us/chaintype/11-speed/

I find I'm overwhelmed with the options.  They include:

-"DLC" (Diamond Like Coating)

-TI Nitride

-Silver

-"ECO PROTEQ"

-Nickel

Weights seem to include L (light), SL (super light), and XL (extra light).

The most popular choice on Amazon seems to be the "KMC X11.93 Nickel":

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-X11-93-Nickel-Plated-Silver/dp/B00P26H1AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480788326&sr=8-1&keywords=kmc+x11+chain

which is also the least expensive by far at $24.  All the others listed above are at least 2x as much, some 3x - 4x as much.

I ride my bike 90+% for commuting, so saving large amounts of weight (ex. carbon vs aluminum frame) is significant, but when getting down to counting grams it doesn't much matter for my riding purposes.

Of course the manufacturer's description of the more expensive chains (i.e. all the options other than Nickel) imply that they are worth the extra cost and provide all-worldly benefits, but I'm skeptical I would notice a difference.

So here are my questions:

-What are the advantages of Silver or TI Nitride over Nickel?

-Is there such a thing as "Diamond Like Coating" or is this just manufacturer hype?

-Would I notice the slight weight difference with the L vs SL vs XL, or is this something that would only matter to a competitive cyclist trying to shave a few seconds off a run?

-Other than the coating, are the more expensive chains actually built more robustly?  Of course the KMC website claims the more expensive chains are more resistant to stretching, but is the difference enough to be significant?

-My inclination is to go with the $24 Nickel chain, is there a compelling reason that the 2x-4x more expense chains would be better for a non-competitive cyclist?

Edit: somebody linked a semi-related post that mentioned Nickel plating, thanks for the suggestion, but that post did not address by other inquiries


texts: Are these chainrings the reason my chain skips/hops?

texts:
When I ride my bike normally, then chain skips like crazy. I know it skips in the front because I stuck some paper in the chain to see if it moved and it didn't.

Chainrings:


texts: What is the problem with my suspension fork?

texts:
I have a Manitou Skareb. I think it is a 2005. It was working fine the last time I rode it. I pulled the bike out after about 1 month of not riding and I could push the fork down about 1.5 inches with very little pressure on the fork. When I lift the front wheel off the ground, the wheel drops down immediately.

The air pressure in the fork is 140 psi.

Any idea what the problem might be or how to fix it?


texts:
I had built a bike similar to this one before. I think many would have this idea, too.

However, for some reason, not many of these designed are commercially marketed.

https://sites.google.com/site/pendalbike/pendalbike

There are several advantages on this design:

More aerodynamic posture
Better up-hill climb efficiency (personal experience)
Less maintenance for the drive train
Less Frame materials (weight are transfer directly through the pedal
to rear wheel, and through fork to Front wheel)

There are disadvantages:

Fewer gears (I doubt this, technology in this Information age should
be more than enough to design a robust Internal Hub gear that support
a pedal axle in the middle)
Cost: Obviously it is not in the stage of mass-production, so the
cost would be high. But I do not see why it should be more expensive
(if not to say cheaper) than a normal bike.

Unless I missed many unforeseen disadvantages, what else could prevent this design from becoming popular in the last 10 years?
What are other disadvantages in comparison with a normal bike that can level the advantages I have stated?


texts: Why is low sprocket minimum 28t for a Shimano 105-GS?

texts:
I have a Shimano 105 R7000 GS (medium cage) rear derailleur and would like to mount a 12-25 cassette. According to its specs, this should not be possible.

I am just wondering: why not? A GS-cage will manage a 25t sprocket fine in many cassette combinations and in reality go as low as 11t. I understand, there is a problem in the other direction and a max on how many teeth it can handle on the highest sprocket.

Would anyone know, why a GS derailleur cannot handle a 12-25 cassette?

Thanks
Morten


texts:
Whilst riding recently the cable slipped from the clamp on the rear derailleur.

I'm attempting to affect repairs by re-clamping the cable. However by pulling the cable tight I have lost the bottom 2 gears. If I then slacken the cable just a small amount I gain the bottom gears again but lose the top gear. I can't seem to reach a balance.

This is the first time I've had to fit a cable to a derailleur, are there any tips? Am I potentially doing something wrong? Do I have to be in a certain gear before attempted to re-attach the cable to get the correct balance?


texts: Hire road bike for one day for race (never ridden one before)?

texts:
So I am thinking of doing a triathlon in a couple of months. I've been training on a hybrid bike and have only ever ridden either hybrid or MTB.

Your probably thinking, don't do it you're mad, totally different riding position, much narrower tires etc.

So what do you think? I would have an evening with the hired road bike the day before the race, do you think I can literally jump on a road bike for the first time and for a race and pull it off or am I kidding myself?


texts: Shimano SM-RT900 Dura Ace Center Lock Rotor on Ultegra

texts:
Is it possible to fit the Dura Ace Rotor (SM-RT900) if you have the Ultegra R8020 hydro disc .

?


texts: Is there a front derailer clamp diameter that is near 29.6 or 29.7mm?

texts:
I have a 1966 Schwinn Super Sport that I bought without a front derailer. The seat tube clamp diameter (i.e., the diameter measured out outside the seat tube, where a derailer would go) is ~29.6mm. Sheldon says the standards are 1 1/8" (28.6 mm) and 1 1/4" (31.8 mm).

Am I correct in assuming this is some Schwinn-specific diameter that predates those standards? I'm sure I could shim on a 1-1/4 in derailer, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious that would fit without shimming.


texts: Can I 'toe in' these cantilever brake pads?

texts:
I'm riding a new bike (new to me) and I am unfamiliar riding with some of the components, specifically the cantilever cross brakes.  On my road bike, I toe in the brake pads to help with noise, feel, modulation, etc.

On this bike, the brake pads contact the rim pretty much evenly and don't have much modulation.  They are making a fair amount of noise right now.  I've done the obvious things to fix this besides toeing in the pads.  However, they don't really sit in and tilt around slightly on a rounded bushing when loosened like on normal road calipers, allowing for toeing in.

Is it possible to toe in the pads on these brakes? If so, how?


texts: Chain falling when shifting from small to big chainring

texts: I just recently installed Q Rings both inner and outer chain rings on Shimano Ultegra 6800 groupset. The bike shifts perfectly when in the bike stand. But when I ride the bike, sometimes the chain falls when shifting from small to big chain ring. It falls towards the frame which seems odd. If it falls out to the pedal then I know I need to set the limit screws but this is different. It usually happens when chain in the rear cassette is in the 2 biggest rings. Any idea?


texts: Will an 11-speed SRAM shifter work on an Alfine 11?

texts: I'm building a bike, got an Alfine hub for cheap, but the shifter feels like garbage. There're lots of new 11 speed shifters out this year, like the SRAM X1, do they work with the Alfine?


texts: How to pour tubeless sealant without removable core valves

texts:
I have an Ultegra UST wheelset and tubeless tyres on them. After suffering some punctures I decided to run them with a tubeless sealant. The problem is that the sealant's manual instructs you to remove the valve cores and pour the liquid through the hole but my rims came with standard integrated valves. I ended up removing part of the tyre off the rim and pouring the liquid through the slit and then quickly using the pump to seat the tyre back in the rim. However, for some reason this is apparently not quick enough as it results in some considerable amount of the liquid spilling out.

Is there any weird trick to doing it effectively? Note that "buy different valves" is not going to be considered an acceptable answer (even though I may consider upgrading eventually.)


texts: What mistake might I have made while truing this wheel?

texts:
I bought a spoke wrench and tried to true up a wheel (for a heavier rider 220+ lbs.)

However, as soon as they got on, there was a chinking noise, and the brake rub I had just fixed resumed (albeit slightly.)

I used the motion of the brake pad (I had one pad rubbing on the rim) as the stand.  There was still a slight hop in it.  I wasn't systematic, but, whenever there was too much deviation in one spot I would tighten or loosen the spokes a few times until it was fairly straight.

Does anyone know the most likely error in my process?  Thanks.


texts: Riding Cannondale Synapse on Paris-Roubaix terrain?

texts:
I've test ridden the Synapse Sora 7 and love it! Going to buy it! But i've one concern.
I'd like to know if I can ride my Synapse on the same terrain as seen along the Paris-Roubaix?
I've seen the Cannondale Synapse in action at the Paris-Roubaix with Ruben Zepuntke. But his bike is a special model, mine isn't.
So can my 2015 Cannondale Synapse Sora 7 withstand a normal Paris-Roubaix route?
My LBS clerk responded with "i'm not sure" when I asked that question.


texts:
I ride my bike to work. But every time I get a flat tire, my schedule is messed up because bike shops are not easily available on my town.

Is there any other option besides puncture-proof tires?


texts: Rock Shox Recon does not "completely" lock

texts:
I recently bought the 29er CUBE ACID 2017 equipped with a RockShox Rrecon front fork (Silver TK AIR PopLock 100mm).

I have noticed that even when the suspension is locked, there is still a movement (compression) of the stanchions of about 20mm. It is not completely rigid, not locked, even though the knob and the crown of the fork is in the LOCK position.

Is it supposed to work like this (as the shop I bought the bike from tells me) or is it somehow faulty? I am new with bicycles and I would appreciate your help!


texts: Left outside for over a year, what to do to get it ride-worthy?

texts:
I've got a cheapy cruiser (6 speed?) from Walmart that's been sitting on a bike rack in Minnesota for well over a year. There's rust all over the place and the most maintenance I've ever done on a bike was replacing a tube on my middle-school bike's tire.

I want to try and get it fixed up and safe for my girlfriend to ride (frame's too big for me) and have zero idea where to start, so any advice helps.


texts: my bike pedals but the back tire will not move

texts: I have a mountain bike and it was working well.then I started to pedal and the back wheel isn't moving.could someone tell me what it could be?


texts: Are fixed or floating SPD-SL cleats most suitable for a long commute?

texts:
After much procrastination, I've finally jumped in and bought myself a road bike, under the cycle2work scheme we have here in the UK.

I opted for a Boardman Road Race, as it seems to be the most affordable entry level road racer. Since my commute is 20 miles one way (aiming for twice a week to start with) I've been advised to invest in some SPD-SL pedals.

I've never used a road bike, or SPD-SLs for that matter, however from what I can tell there are two types of cleats, floating (which give a little movement sideways) and fixed (no sideways movement).

For such a commute, which type would be most suited? I'm thinking that floating probably for the extra range of movement which could be more comfortable for a longer commute.

Is there anything in it? Or is it just down to user preference?

p.s. Any reason these pedals/cleats would not be compatible with the above bike? Or are pedals universally OK


texts: How is bicycle fit affected by switching from a riser bar to a flat bar?

texts:
I have a 2009 Kona Dew that comes with handlebars that have a rise in them.

I've noticed that I feel pretty upright while biking so I'm looking to get into a more aerodynamic position. Looking at the 2009 Dr. Dew, it looks like the geometry is more aggressive due to a flat bar and a different stem.

How is the fit/posture affected by the difference in bars? Is it more taxing on the rider to maintain such a posture without increasing the weight on the hands?

Given that the basic frame geometry of the Dr. Dew is identical to my bike, can I replicate the setup simply by switching to a flat bar like this FSA XC-180? Should I replace the stem and/or headset at the same time?


texts:
I have my eye on a set of second hand Campagnolo Bora Ultra two rims that are being sold by a friend for someone else. In South Africa the rims cost about +- R25 k (Rand is South Africa's currency) brand new with this set costing around R12.5 k.

I have had the rims looked at to make sure that they are sound however I would like to know if there is a serial or id code I can use to make sure the rims are real or fakes.


texts:
I tried getting a good measurement with my caliper, but the flexibility of the tire doesn't help much. Let's say I have a 26"x2.125" tire. I know this fits on an ISO 559mm bead seat diameter rim, and 26" = 660.4mm.
26":

The OD of the tire including the tread?
The OD of the tire excluding the tread?
When aired up or deflated?
Means it fits a 559mm ISO BSD
None of the above?

2.125":

Width of tread?
Width of sidewall?
Inflated or deflated?

Essentially, I'm converting the tire sizes to "height off rim in mm" and drawing them with a wheel in a web application, so I need to know how "tire size" translates to this measurement. I'm somewhat assuming that the fractional sizes can be converted to the same measurement, but I'm aware that they have certain differences - so any help there would be of value as well.
Sheldon Brown's Website has been helpful, but still leaves me with the questions above.


texts:
I am building my first wheelset.  The front wheel went without a hitch - nice and true both radially and laterally.

However, the rear wheel has a pronounced (5mm) bulge over about 1/4 of it. The rest of the wheel is pretty much true. As far as I can tell, I should be tightening the spokes around the bulge area, but they're already significantly tighter than the rest of the wheel, and the bulge isn't coming out.

What should I do at this point?  Is it worth loosening the spokes everywhere else so that the rest of the rim settles out? Wouldn't that bring the spoke tension to be even less even?

Thanks


texts: I was sent vulcanizing cement instead of rubber glue. I need a strong glue for LED strip lights. Everywhere I go looking for vulcanizing cement answers leads to tires, but not what all else it can be used for. Can I use vulcanizing cement on LED strip lights?


texts:
Is it possible or recommended to use spacers to fill the gap left by using 100mm front and 142mm rear hubs on boost frames and forks?

Is it fair to think to add possible 2 x 3mm spacers rear ? 5 + 5 mm spacers front?

How to adjust the rotor / caliper positioning?


texts: Problem with Apollo Gradient clunky and missed gear changes

texts:
About four months ago I decided to get back into riding. I bought an Apollo Gradient mountain bike. I know this is quite a cheap/basic bike but didn't want to spend a lot if I didn't stick with it. I have stuck with it and will eventually upgrade to something better but can't afford to right now.

Now onto the problem, the gear changes have never been particularly smooth but over the last month they have got worse. The gear changes themselves, while clunky, aren't a particular issue. What is an issue is that it sometimes misses a gear especially 3rd and 6th gears (so when I change from 2nd it will go straight to 4th or from 5th straight to 7th). This is more of an issue as you will think you are in the right gear and then it will snap back into the correct gear later on. This is a particular issue when cycling up hill as it throws my feet off the pedals. I've got massive bruises on both knees from where they have hit the handlebars at these times. This happens when riding on relatively smooth roads so isn't even anything to do with the type of terrain that I am riding on.

I have taken the bike to a shop to be serviced and they seemed to think it was ok but it is still happening. So with that information and the fact that I can't afford to upgrade my bike straight away what can I do to try and solve this issue with gear changes being clunky and gears being missed (or being missed then snapping back into them as I am riding)?


texts: Are there any high power bicycle generators?

texts:
I have been searching for a generator or 'dynamo' (preferably one built into the hub) to run lights for night riding, but it seems that most are rated for only about 3W (presumably to meet German bicycle standards).  I currently have a DiNotte 400R tail light that serves me well, running from a battery.  I'd like to add a high-lumen headlight (at least 800 Lumens) and run the whole thing from a generator.

I've measured the average power consumption of the 400R on one of the blink modes to be about 2W.  A reasonable ballpark estimate for LEDs is about 100 Lumens per Watt, so I'd need a generator that can source an average power of at least 10 Watts for the head and tail light combined.  I have some experience with electronics so an unregulated output in the range of, say, 5-30 Volts is acceptable.  Storing energy to supply the power surge when the tail light is 'active' is something I'm confident I can handle.  A typical cruising speed would be something like 20 mph (30 km/h).

So: Generator (preferably in the hub) that can output 10 W at a reasonable voltage at 20 mph. Does anyone know of such a thing?


texts:
In the older days I remember that frame locks were soldered onto the frame, but today they seem to be just screwed onto it (example film of installation can be found here).

Doesn't this open for the possibility that someone just unmounts the lock and removes the wheel? (And then takes the wheel to his shop where the lock could be forced and then the wheel combined with another bike that was stolen because the owner only secured the rear wheel to a fixed object)

It doesn't look like the screws becomes covered when the lock is locked.

I assume that the thief would not like to force the lock at site and that the bike frame and front wheel is locked to a fixed object (using a separate lock). The purpose of the lock would then be mainly to counteract someone stealing the rear wheel.


texts: Should I change V-brake pads if they are old and dry?

texts:
Should I change V-brake pads if they are old and look a bit dry?

If yes, how I can determine if pads are dry enough, or not?

Just to be clear, the pads are not worn.


texts: What range of sprockets is useful in a road bike cassette?

texts:
My road bike currently has a 27/39/53 crankset and a 13-26 cassette, both of which need to be replaced.

I occasionally find myself in both extremes—while heading up the very steep hills of the Bay Area the lowest gearing sometimes isn't enough and on much of a downhill grade my legs can't keep up in the highest.

Is it worth going to a wider range on the front or rear?


texts: I've got some Sun Rhynolyte rims and one of the features is being welded and machined. What does it mean when said in relation to a rim?


texts:
I use cheap flat pedals, aluminum or plastic. They lasts about a year (1K-2K kms) before dying (cracking noises at each stroke).

I don't mind paying US$10 each year, but it hurts my eco-heart: I want to recicle, to repair and not pollute the Earth.

How long should pedals last? Do serviceable pedals last longer? May I try to repair non-serviceable ones?


texts: Is it possible that the gears switched from left to right?

texts:
I'm 100% sure that my gear levers on the right side are for my front gears and the ones on the left side are for changing the rear gears.

After a muddy ride today it seemed that this changed. I was pressing the right levers to change the front gear and the rear gears started to change instead.

Is it possible? I know I have to take it for maintenance, but I wanted to check before so that the guys there wouldn't think I'm crazy.

My bike is Giant ToughRoad SLR GX 3 2018 and I had it for about 8 months during which it didn't have any issues.


texts: Seeking a very deep/long reach dual pivot brake caliper. 90 mm drop required

texts:
I can get a single pivot caliper deep enough, but the performance is inadequate.
Does anyone know of a dual pivot caliper that's at least 90mm deep? Or another solution? It's for the front of a cargo bike where a disc brake or roller brake is not possible.
I've done a lot of Google searches without result.
Thanks.


texts: What year is this Specialized Stumpjumper FSR?

texts: I'm interested in buying this, but was curious as to what year the frame is? Any help would be much appreciated.


texts: More or less skid patches for winter tires?

texts:
Update: this question is NOT about how to calculate the # of skid patches. I've always used http://www.bikecalc.com/skid_patch_calculator for that and the math is sound.

So, I'm already thinking ahead to next winter to see what I could do better with my fixed gear winter commuter. I'm running a pretty conservative gearing with a deliberately odd-numbered cog (21T I believe) to spread the skid patches all over my rear tire (update: I'm running 44x21 so 21 skid patches, which is a lot). This winter I tried the Schwalbe Marathons and was pleased generally, but after only two months of daily riding, the rear tire looks like the tonsure on a monk's head: completely bald in the middle and treads on both sides.

Why? Because I have SO MANY skid patches that it's a pretty uniform wear. And I hear that the Schwalbes use a pretty soft compound so they wear fast.

So, I'm wondering, what if I switched to an even gearing with **LESS* skid patches? Like a 45x20 for 8 skid patches. Obviously, some parts of the tire would wear more... but others would keep their tread... Has anyone tried this and is it a horrible idea? Or is there some merit? Again, I'm focusing on WINTER riding where I might want to preserve a little tread for grip.

And yes I run a front brake.


texts: Front rack symmetry - spacers and handling

texts:
The combination of disc brakes and full mudguards on my tourer means I'll need to space the left lowrider rack at least 30mm from the fork. On the right I'll only need 5--10mm. Should I space them equally from the point of view of handling?

The panniers for the first trip will be fairly lightly loaded and will be different: one will be my Altura Morph that converts into a backpack because I'll need a backpack when I arrive; the other will be a slightly fatter roll-top.

I've already got the rack, having used it on my hybrid. With a single front pannier the handling was awful at low speeds (but I also had a child on the back) so I'm wary about getting it wrong for a longer ride.


texts: Hose Clamp Salsa Watter Bottle Cage to Rigid Fork with No Sliding (Gravel)

texts:
Last year, I used some plastic clamps I bought from a LBS to mount two stainless steel Salsa water bottle cages to my rigid fork as shown in this picture:

Unfortunately, the plastic clamps wouldn't tighten sufficiently so as soon as I hit the first downhill on plain old pavement, one of the water bottle cages slid into my spokes.  This significantly deformed the Salsa cage and damaged at least one spoke knocking my wheel slightly out of true.

Now (after the fact), I know that Salsa stainless steel cages have slits that can be used with stainless steel hose clamps.  I want to try mounting Salsa SS cages to my rigid fork again using stainless steel clamps from a hardware store instead of the plastic style clamps I got from an LBS.  Only this time, I want the cages to stay in place for a 200 mile gravel ride.

My suspicion is that the stainless steel clamps will tighten much better than the plastic clamps did so the cages will be much less likely to move, but now that I'm transitioning to gravel, the stakes are higher.

If I try this again with stainless steel clamps, is there anything extra I can do (besides installing braze-ons or rivet nuts) that will keep the cages from rotating on a 200 mile gravel ride?

I was thinking I could get some really strong "string" and somehow tie it to my cages and brake posts to prevent rotation, but the strongest "string" I know of is fishing or weed eater line and that doesn't seem to tie in knots very well.


texts: Bike bag options for commuting to and from Airport

texts:
I've got a quick trip later in the year to Italy and I'm considering biking on my full sized road bike to/from the airport at both ends of the trip. I'll have my trusty Chrome Industries Rolltop 37 with me for clothes/tools but I was wondering if there's a fold-able or collapsible bike bag that I could use to transport the bike that would be small enough to fold up in to my backpack? When I get to Italy, I'll have an 80Km cycle so it would have to be lightweight.

An alternative and front runner for now is, getting a ride/taxi to my local airport with bike in a cardboard box (that they ship to shops in) and then hopefully obtaining a box from Safe Bag when I depart. UPDATE This is not available at the airport I'm travelling to but looks like a good product.

This is an EU to EU flight. Cost of bringing the bike on the flight will be about €100. I'm flying with Ryanair and their bicycle policy is as follows:

Bicycles - MUST be contained in a protective box or protective bike bag in order to be
accepted for travel

Bike rental is not something I'd like to consider at this time. The return flight is quite early so I'm not even sure I'd be able to return a rental I was to consider that option.

Any suggestions would be great.


texts: Difficulty maintaining power at recommended cadence. Is recommended or preferred cadence better?

texts:
I find that it's easier to maintain my power at a lower cadence. For example, 75 RPM versus 95 RPM. I'm using TrainerRoad. Recently, I've experimented with a higher cadence.

On one of the workouts, I could only complete 3 of 5 sets. It felt like hitting the wall which never happened to me before on TR.

During FTP tests, I felt that I could test higher for the interval with a cadence that's almost 10 RPM lower.
See VO2 Max 2 and VO2 Max 3.

Even for a recovery week's endurance workout, my hip flexors surprisingly lasted a little more than enough for the workout. Maybe those muscles were my weakest links.

Is it possible that my legs were heavy, making lower cadence even more efficient? My thigh's circumference is 20" and my shin's circumference is 14.5". My height is 5 feet 7.

Is it better to do an FTP test with the ideal cadence or the most efficient cadence (the one that allows you to produce the most power)?

For my workouts, should I select the cadence that works best for me regardless of their recommendations?

Is it likely that my FTP was too low for a high cadence?


texts: Can anyone tell me what bmx frame this is? I can't find anything about it.


texts: What is the benefit of a larger disc rotor?

texts:
What real benefit does having a larger rotor give to braking performance?

Additionally is my assumption correct that you callipers don't actually change in size, just the rotor and the adapter need to be be changed?

And for the bonus point while I'm here, what benefit does moving to a 4 pot system give over a standard (2 piston) calliper?


texts: Kalkhoff Agattu (e-bike) Panasonic 24v engine dead - worth repairing?

texts:
UPDATE:

http://www.kalkhoff-bikes.com/en/bikes/e-bike/e-activity/agattu-impulse-8-hs-8-g-1.html

I went with one of the above. It's not a 2016 model though. The Impulse 2 drive is awesome.

My three year old Panasonic crank engine just gave up the ghost recently.

The dealer says that the engine shorted the battery and vice versa. So I'd need both components as new or used.

The battery costs 600EUR or less depending on capacity.
http://www.amazon.de/Derby-Panasonic-Motoren-Kalkhoff-Ladegerät/dp/B007GBD8RS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450190851&sr=8-1&keywords=e-bike+batterie+24v+panasonic

The engine I could not find at a glance.

So my question is. Do you think it is worthwhile for me to try to fix the electronics of the engine / replace the battery of a 3 Year old bike that was used daily for climbing hills. Or rather just get a new bike that costs 2600,-EUR with newer technology. Impulse 2 system from Kalkhoff.

And would it make sense to remove the engine and use the bike as a non e-bike instead?

Update:

Just to clarify the battery seems to be charging fine in the charger. Pressing the check charge button works as usual. Only when the battery is in the bike, pressing the check charge button makes all charge lights on the battery flash in sync. So I do think the electronics on the engine are gone.

Also:

              this looks like the motor and the electronics are one part that can be swapped.

So the question is, do I want a brand new bike with brand new technology or refurbish a well worn 3 Year old bike with an aluminum frame  that had several falls, lot's of pot holes and one accident running from behind into a car.

Since aluminum does tend to just break without much of notice I'd rather go with a new bike even though it is a heavy investment. The e-motor on the new one and the whole riding experience is superb.


texts: Is there a wheel which can use both disc brakes and rim brakes?

texts:
Could I buy such a wheel, or would I just have to build it? I've heard disc-wheels won't take the punishment from normal brakes.

Edit: I want to get new wheels, and I want to be able to swap them between frames. I don't want to convert all my frames to disc brakes, but I do want parts compatible between all my bikes.


texts:
I am thinking about getting a new bike.

I have a MTB but I am sort of petrified of road riding (cars pass way too close). I have found a nice Specialized Cyclocross bike.

I wanted to have a bit more practice and I do own a Trainer but can I fit a cyclocross on a trainer?


texts: Best bike for neck in straight position?

texts:
What is best bike for person with neck problems ?
To be more specific, problems in inclining and looking up - I feel good when I am in straight vertical position. (for example, for long reading I use: http://www.bookholder.com/ )

Or is bike not recommended at all ? (ok, I know second question is for doc)

I've found answer about posture :
I often get a sore neck when riding. How can I adjust the setup of my bike to help prevent this happening?

Here I ask which types of bike (there are so many of them and their variants, including: mountain bike, european city bike, touring bicycle ,recumbent bicycle ) are suitable (and which are the best) for:

flat area
hilly area

(I am going to buy two bikes, each for different city)


texts:
Is this a common thing, and if so, what is the motivation behind it?

When I went to unlock my bicycle this morning, when I touched the U-Lock, it basically fell apart.  It looks like someone used a hacksaw and cut through it.  If it had been half-cut, I might think someone interrupted them (but even that is unlikely since you just need to say, 'I've lost my key!').  But in this case, it was completely cut.  I had a cable around the tires as well, but it was all connected to the U-lock; so it was completely unsecured as soon as they cut the U-lock.

This was in a parking garage with many bicycles.

Do bicycle thieves 'prep' bicycles and then return later to steal them all at once?  I was gone for two weeks, so I have no idea how long it has been cut.  I'm mostly just scratching my head wondering why anyone would do all the work, and then leave the bicycle?


texts:
Just want to ask about the finish of matt black carbon bike. I bought a brand new specialized carbon bike. And the surfaces are like the images. I thought it’s kind of smudges or smears that could be left or made in assembling in the bike shop. When I asked them, they said it’s not any smear or smudges. They said they are the edges of layers of carbon meeting and on raw lacquered frames, These cross over points are then visible through the carbon. It sounds like it’s true. But when i see the frame, still doubt if it’s really what it has to be.
So want to hear anyone’s experience or any photos similar with mine to be assured.
Thanks
J


texts: Why does bicycle floor pump not show pressure reading?

texts: I bought a new floor pump and it pumps everything perfectly fine, the problem I have is that it only shows a pressure reading while I am pumping and the moment I stop, the gauge drops back down to zero. I wanted to know if this is normal. I will note that I have not tried pumping anything with high psi, only tried it for things less than 12 psi.


texts: Clanking sound from the bottom bracket when I pedal

texts:
My MTB, having not received much TLC lately, was making a lot of squeaks and noises.
After a long-overdue clean-up and lubrication of the drivetrain, most have gone away.
However there's something still making clicking (?) noises, and it seems to come from the bottom bracket area.
It only happens when I pedal, regardless if I use a lot of force or not, but not for super-light action - like pedalling by hand, with the bike on a stand.
See (and hear) this video.
Any suggestions to what may be causing this?


texts: Do both riders on a tandem need to know how to ride a bike?

texts:
I want to take a visiting friend out on a bike ride.

Since this friend never learned how to ride a bike, I was thinking that a tandem might be a viable solution in the short term, instead of spending time on teaching them how to ride a bike.

I've never ridden a tandem myself, so I wonder if both buddies must be capable of riding a bike on their own, or only one is sufficient.


texts: How do you protect your bike from scratches?

texts: Anyone here use protective tape to protect a new frame? To which areas do you apply the tape?  I have a new frame and I am worried that other bikes sharing bike racks will scratch my ride.


texts: Shifting problems after removing and replacing rear wheel

texts:
I had a mysterious flat tire on my rear wheel after I had left the bike standing for the workday. I removed the wheel and changed the inner tube. I didn't think anything went wrong while doing that (e.g. I don't think I bumped the derailleur) but I did notice that the brake disc was rubbing slightly on the inner pad, so I adjusted the pad a tiny bit and it seemed to be fine. The disc wasn't visibly wobbling when I looked at it between the brake pads.

On the ride home, the chain was sometimes skipping on the rear sprockets and I had frequent trouble shifting. I suspect that the derailleur is misadjusted. Both the chain and rear cassette are pretty new, and I had no skipping problems before I changed the inner tube.

Before I try adjusting the derailleur, is there something else I should check? Is it possible that the quick-release skewer is too tight or loose causing the wheel to be misaligned?


texts:
This is my mother in law's bicycle from when she was a child. While cleaning out a lean-to on the back forty I found this bike inside.  I was hoping to give her a bike that is identical to hers that is restored for a birthday or Christmas.

With that I need to learn more about this specific bike.

My Mother-In-Law was born in 1952 in Eastern, NC.  Given that I would assume that the bicycle purchased at a local hardware store, from the sears catalog, or was handed down from a sibling. Her three older sisters were born between 1932-1942 - thus if this was a bike of theirs it would probably be from 1937-1948... but I find this scenario less likely as they are half siblings.

All of that together, I would have to assume that the bike was built in the 1955-1960 time frame.

Thank you for taking time to look through these photos and any guidance is appreciated.


texts:
I'm planning a randonneur-like bike with drop bars, STI shifters, and nevertheless some low gears. The crankset could be a "compact plus" (I guess from Sugino), 44 and 28 teeths, and the cassette a normal Shimano 105 11-32.

With this setup, the second lowest gear ratio would be 28/28 = one.

I can imagine that this could add some particular mechanical stress on the the entire rear wheel, from the cassette to the spokes. But on the other hand, given that it's not the lowest gear, I probably won't use it for more than a few minutes in a row.
Should an exact gear ratio of 1/1 be strictly avoided ?

Edit: imagine a cyclist pushing from side to side as she/he stands to climb up a mountain road. As long as the 1:1 gear stays in, the rear wheel always get flexed in the same way.


texts: Why the vertical difference between the right-most point of TT and the left-most (union with ST) is not part of a geometry chart?

texts:
One of the things I often look to determine whether a bike fits a specific purpose is that distance mentioned in the title, that is, if you draw a line from the stem to the seat tube, and then you draw a vertical line from the union of both ST and TT to that line, measure such difference.

Maybe it does not provide any meaningful insights, but IMO, when I see a bike with a higher distance at this "metric", it tends to be more focused in AM / Trail, whereas if this distance is shorter, it's often more suitable for XC.


texts:
I just got an older bike - a Schwinn Paramount Series 7 PGD OS bike.  It has 26" wheels.

What is required to convert to disc brakes? Any suggestions on which kit is best to get?

Are there any problems I might have with the conversion?


texts: Are aluminum or steel chainrings more resistant to bending?

texts:
I mash a lot and wind up killing chainrings. I later find that my chainring warps at the midpoint between two chainring bolts. Usually my first sign that something is wrong is my chain pops off or breaks and I can see the bump in the chainring that caused it.

I've gone through a 3 or 4 34t/36t chainrings between my single speed track bike and geared cross bike bike with a shimano deore drivetrain. Both have bash guards protecting the outer ring, so I doubt impact is a factor.

When replacing these, what is going to resist bending more, steel or aluminium?


texts: Mounting Stiff Metal Fender with Strive Bolts

texts:
I am trying to mount a metal fender on my bike that was formerly a cross bike. I explicitly moved to this one (used) because the "crossy", plastic ones tend to slip to one side or another, and are not long enough in either direction.

The fender came with four screws that are, I believe, translated to English as "Strive Bolts" (German: Strebenbolzen/Klemmschraube). In the below image, the screw will sink into the "center" ring, and thus the hole becomes tighter.

One centrally on each fender (see below)

to connect the metal bar to the fender, and two to connect it near the wheel's center on the frame (back) / front fork, to be secured with a nut on the other side.

The holes in the frame/fork are threaded.

This gives me the following problem: Since the direction of the hole is somewhat predetermined by the angle from which the metal bars come, the suitable position for the strive bolt is only every 1/2 turn.

Now it seems to me that I either have it such that the metal bar is loose and will slip right out (and it did already on a pothole), or I turn it another half rotation before trying to insert the bar, and then the hole starts to get covered because the bolt "sinks" into the cover-thing (center, first picture) and I cannot fit the metal bar in at all anymore.

I also cannot screw the bolt further in after inserting the metal bar into it, because the metal bar is connected to the fender which is already mounted on top to the fork.

What am I missing? To me, it seems like the "strive bolts" are perhaps supposed to be inserted in a non-threaded hole on the fork where they can spin freely, then insert the metal bar in the bolt, and then lock the metal bar in the bolt by screwing the nut on the other side tighter and tighter, thus pulling the bolt in and closing the hole. Am I thus trying to combine two incompatible designs?


texts: Rohloff clicking sound with ratchety feeling

texts:
Recently, my Rohloff-geared bicycle started to make a regular clicking sound with a ratchety feeling associated with it. Besides a click, I feel a small resistance transmitted through the pedals. This is the same click that I always feel (have been from the start) when I'm stationary, put weight on the pedals, and change gears. But now I get it at a regular interval when riding; it happens every couple of turns of the pedals. I think it's coming from my Rohloff hub. My hub is a bit more than 3 years old, and I've done 12000 km with it. My last oil change was less than 2 months ago. The only component I have replaced since the bicycle was new was the bottom bracket, which failed last winter so which is now new.

I would bring it along the bikestore for a specialist to have a look at it, but the nearest specialist is 1600 km (1000 mi) away, shipping the bicycle back and forth would cost hundreds of euros. I'm slightly worried that, if it is related to the hub, I might be damaging it by continuing to ride on it. At my last oil change I spilt a little bit of oil, but I'm pretty sure most of the oil went in, so the oil should be sufficient. Should I do another oil change, just to be sure and just to see if it gets rid of the clicking sound? Or is it more likely to be caused by another factor?

Possibly related questions here, here.


texts: Are the Shimano BR650 brakes really Ultegra spec?

texts:
Many ebay and other online vendors advertise the long-reach Shimano BR-650 brakes as being "Ultegra" series.

However, looking at them they don't seem like they are top-of the line or really all that different in manufacture from 105-line Shimano brakes.

The brakes themselves don't seem to say Ultegra on them anywhere but I haven't seen a box for them. Anyone know why they are listed as Ultegra?

Edit: and if they aren't, what series are they? Deores? Altimas? OEMs?


texts: Expanding the range of capabilities of a gravel bike

texts:
I'm a believer in having just one bike that i can use for anything I do, mostly club rides and light touring. I currently have a Giant Defy 1 with 28c tires, but am intrigued by the new gravel grinder bikes such as the GT Grade, which have road bike components but accept broad tires. I'd like to make a few changes to a GT Grade, and would appreciate any guidance on a few questions I have:

I'd like to replace the road bike transmission (Shimano 105) with a mountain bike transmission Shimano XT), both 11 speed.

Is it possible to make the change? Will an XT crankshaft fit on a road bike?
Can i use the 11 speed 105 shifters to shift the XT front and rear derailleurs?

I'd also like to replace the wheels (Stan's No Tubes Grail Disc) with XT wheels, which i expect would be more robust when touring. The XT wheels have an internal width of 24 mm. I believe they will fit the bike, but will they work with 32c tyres (Conti Gatorskins or Schwalbe Marathon Supremes)?


texts:
I plan to use my bicycle 5 days a week to get to work and back, approximately 30 minutes(~6 miles /10 km) one way, mostly good/ok roads but with some bumps here and there.

Should I care about cx bicycles because of not perfect road conditions or typical road bicycle would be able to endure?

I don't care about comfort that much and only carry my laptop with me in a backpack, so my priority is to get from one point to another and do it fast. Any recommendations?

Thank you.


texts:
My bike has 12 gears on the rear wheel. When I put the last gear (12) it starts constantly changing from 12 to 11 gear without me doing anything. For example, I put the last gear and it works; right away it changes to 11 gear for a very short time; then back to the last gear and so on. All the other gears work fine. I don't known what's possibly wrong. Sorry for my English.
Thank you!


texts: Are you required to cross the finish line on a bike?

texts: Suppose you get a flat 100m-1km (or some distance that you can sprint/run) from the finish line. Can you leave your bike and run the remaining distance to the finish line? Or are you required to carry your bike while running? Or are you required to cycle across the finish line (i.e. wait for a service car to come fix your bike)?


texts: Fork travel for 16" frame size, 26" wheel hardtail

texts:
I would like to ask question if my frame and setup are OK for me.
I am 5'6.5" (169 cm) tall and I am using a Merida HFS 1000, frame size 16".  Please tell me what fork travel should I set up with this. Right now I am using an SR Suntour Epicon 100 mm travel.  Should I decrease the travel to 80 mm?


texts: Why are road bikes (not time trial bikes) used in many triathlons?

texts: I've been watching triathlon videos lately and I couldn't help but notice that, with the exception of Ironman Competitions, only road bikes and not time trial bikes are being used. Is there any reason for that?


texts: Atomized bubbles while following Park process to bleed Magura MT5

texts:
I have the Park tool mineral oil bleeding kit (BKM-1), and followed their instructions for bleeding my MT5 calipers.
I ended up with soft/useless brake caliper.  I think maybe I introduced air into the system when I took too long to insert the stopper bolt on the caliper-side, and some oil tumbled out. (as an aside -- with the lever-side bleed screw closed, I thought the sealed system would prevent oil from tumbling out the caliper-side port, similar to how I can use a straw and my finger to lift coke out of a glass. But it doesn's seem to be the case here)
So I went back and repeated the process, adding more fluid in via syring/funnel combo and trying to drive the air out.  I got it to the point that I didn't have any big glug-glug bubbles, but I seemed to have an incessant plume of extremely fine microbubbles on the caliper side when I sucked with the syringe, and on the funnel-side when I pressed the syringe.  I was working at night with a head-lantern, so maybe this was overly sensitizing me to the microbubbles, but they steadfastly persisted.   It's like I somehow atomized the air and diffused it so widely in the fluid it was never going to come out, or at least not till they had a long time to aggregate into larger bubbles?

I had the fittings all snugged on as tight as my fingers allowed and they had their rubber gaskets, so I don't see where there might have been a leak that could suck any air in.
I eventually just pushed up into the funnel, and replaced the fluid with fresh fluid that presumably didn't have all this atomized air in it.  Once I pulled that in and sealed up the system the brakes work, at least ok. (I'm not sure if they're as strong as they could be -- I couldn't get my front to lock-up.)
One variation from the Park guide that I did my second time was detach the caliper from the fork and bring the vent hole up to parity with the lever-side vent so that I didn't leak oil or leave space when I put the stopper bolt on. That seems to have helped.
Anyway, my question is, "what was I doing wrong to generate all these microbubbles which are the source I my problem I assume?"
And I guess secondly is there a followup process I could do to further purge any remaining air from the system?
Thanks


texts:
This question is probably a little too location-specific but I hope it attracts some good answers
Okay, here we go...
Most cities in India do not have dedicated paths/lanes for bicycles
We are expected to ride our bikes on the roads sharing space with a variety of vehicles
(Except for expressways, where two-wheeled/three-wheeled vehicles are prohibited anyway)

In my experience, most motorists are pretty good at estimating my speed when I cruise under 25 kmph
But I often cruise at 35 kmph, occasionally touching 40 kmph for short distances

Some motorists, especially people riding motorbikes, cut me off quite close when they overtake me from behind
Sometimes, motorists attempt to overtake me and realize that I am moving at only a slightly lesser speed than them, after driving in parallel with me for several metres

This is even more common on roads which are 2-lane undivided carriageways

The other scenario equally common is oncoming traffic, where one vehicle is trying to overtake another assuming they can finish the maneuver before they cross me

I solve this problem by occupying the entire lane and slowing down as necessary
The difference is that both the oncoming traffic and i can see each other and we can make each other aware of our intentions

The question is how can I warn the drivers intending to overtake me, that I am moving at faster speeds than an average commuter?

It is interesting to note that I get more attention and consequently more space when riding with a helmet and bright coloured t-shirts on weekends but not when I am riding with normal work clothes

PS: I finally decided to post this question after increased vehicular traffic in my area made these kind of encounters almost a daily affair
Please feel free to edit/comment for clarification


texts: Can I use Cube Analog 29" as touring bike?

texts:
I don't know if there is an excellent place for asking this kind of questions or not, but please help me, I need professional people's help.

I know many people who ride their mountain bicycles as a touring bicycle. And the touring bikes are usually more expensive, and I'm going to travel using Cube Analog.

What do you think?

Can I screw (install) rack, carrier, fender, luggage and something else on Cube Analog?

UPDATE

I made my bicycle trip, and used Analog.
That is an excellent bicycle, and I had no problem with that. But I think it is better to have a touring bike, that should be more comfortable. Something like Cube Central That should be a little more expensive :)


texts: The brake levers on the bike for my son are too far apart for him to grab comfortably; can the lever be changed to adjust for his smaller hands? His bike is a Magna Hardtail with a linear pull system. I understand that I can replace them with short pull brake levers. What do you recommend?


texts:
I'm trying to upgrade my cassette on a (commuter road bike) bike that uses a Shimano rear DX derailleur from ca 1990. What would the maximum tooth count be for this RD?

The model says rd-m650 but I'm not sure if it is the SS or SGS version? How can one tell?

It doesn't look like a short cage to my eyes but it's easy to trick ones eyes.

From what I found the it would be either 28T or 32T maximum. Do you think that a 34T would work? I understand that the extremes (smallest-smallest or biggest-biggest) won't work, but I don't use these gears anyways.

Thanks


texts: Giant Toughroad SLR 2 for 200 miles in two days, will it make it?

texts:
I own a Giant Toughroad SLR 2 bike, it's an hybrid bike and I'm planning to register myself in a Seattle to Portland ride.

It's a 2 day - 200 miles ride from Seattle to Portland.

The question is would this bike make it or do I need a road bike? What modifications would you recommend to use my bike?

Disclaimer, I've never done a long distance ride.


texts: How hard is it to remove a European-style rear-wheel ring lock?

texts:
I have an old Breezer Uptown 8 with a European-style ring lock on the rear wheel. I am thinking of removing it. Does anyone have experience doing this? Is it as easy as unscrewing a bolt? It looks like maybe it is bolted on with the fender mount.

I am worried that this may be very difficult because if it was not, the lock would not be very useful.


texts: Any countries where there's a general speed limit for bicycles?

texts:
This not about e-bikes/e-bicycles or e-scooters, it's about the conventional human powered 2/3 wheeled vehicles, about the plain old bicycle.
I would like to know which countries (Europe mostly) have a speed limit for bicycles in their general traffic law (with article/reference or link if possible, language doesn't matter) for driving in built-up areas or not, on cycle paths or on the road.
Not interested in specific rules in a certain city/province but country wide rules and we all assume bicycles need to obey speed limit signs and regulations in cities, pedestrian zones etc.
All I know for now is Spain where the speed limit is 45 km/h built-up areas or not, but you can go faster if road circumstances allow a greater speed (and it's safe to do so I would add) - Real Decreto 1428/2003 art 48:

e) Para ciclos, ciclomotores de dos y tres ruedas y cuadriciclos ligeros: 45 kilómetros por hora. No obstante, los conductores de bicicletas podrán superar dicha velocidad máxima en aquellos tramos en los que las circunstancias de la vía permitan desarrollar una velocidad superior.


texts: How to play video games while cycling on trainer?

texts:
I'm interested in playing video games while riding the bike trainer this winter. Using a controller with a regular setup would likely require me to sit up on the saddle, possibly setting myself up for some weird / painful conditions due to unusual posture for extended periods of time.  I would likely plan to ride for at least an hour, if not longer each session.

How can I set up my bike so that I can be comfortable holding a controller and riding at the same time?


texts: Why do men's bicycles have a top tube while women's bicycles don't?

texts:
Bicycles intended for men have a top tube that always hits me on that embrassing part when I brake.

Conversely, women's bikes often don't have a top tube. Why is this?


texts: Rear derailleur low limit adjustment changes under load

texts:
I have a hybrid bike, which, when I am sat on the bike, shifts and remains into the largest cog on the rear cassette with no problems.

However, if I take my weight off the bike, then when I start pedalling again, the chain skips between the largest and second largest cog until it settles back on the largest cog. Also, it is impossible to get it to shift into the largest cog when the bike is upside down.

I've tried loosening the L screw, but it hasn't worked yet. I'm guessing that if I keep loosening it it will eventually work, but the fact that the adjustment is so dependent on the load on the bike is making me think that something else might be wrong. Is there anything to worry about out or should I just go ahead and keep loosening the L screw?


texts: Why does coaster brake hub growl when coasting but not when braking or pedaling?

texts:
I have an old two-seater recumbent trike with coaster brakes. One of the rear hubs rumbles terribly when the bike is coasting. When the brake is on, or when pedaling, it doesn't make a noise. I assume it's some bearing giving out, but it just had all the bearings replaced not long ago. Also, it's impossible to tighten up without making at least a slight grumble, so the wheel is slightly loose on the hub.  What to do?

I don't know that I have the wherewithal to just replace the wheel... it's a bicycle hub with thick motorcycle spokes and rim and motorcycle tires. 20". I'd likely have to have a custom wheel built from scratch, plus find someone to cut small spokes.


texts: Are there any studies on fat burning in performance cyclists?

texts:
I know if you're dawdling along you can eat pretty much anything to keep you going, but if you're putting in effort you need to take on carbs/sugars, right?

Anecdotally from a pro coach who said it varied by rider, as in one of his riders could last for hours on water and a banana, whereas another needed four gels an hour; lots of other anecdotes from amateur riders who can do 80 miles on an espresso etc. But is this non-reliance on taking on carbs in-built/genetic or can it be trained into everybody?


texts: Is it possible to use cantilever brake pads with caliper brakes?

texts: Pretty much what the title says. I have an unused set of threaded post brake pads designed for V-/cantilever brake mechanisms (DIN EN 14766 if you're curious). Can I safely use these in a more modern caliper system?


texts:
I have a cheap velo cycle computer made by cateye.  It is a simple read out of velocity and clock and has no fancy functions at all.

It worked fine for months, and then started "blipping" to double my speed.
That is, if I was doing about 20 km/h it would blip to 30 or 40 or 60 and then drop back to my real speed.  I disregarded this and keep riding.

A month later it starts cutting out, reading 0 km/h or numbers like 6 or 9, where I am riding at about 20 km/h on the flat road.

I check closely - battery is okay but I change it anyway.   No water anywhere, no rust, no damage, nothing wrong.

Now it stops completely - only shows a speed for a few seconds then back to 0.

The clock works fine, shows the correct time all the time.  Head unit has not been dropped.   Yes it has been ridden in the rain but that is what these are designed for and there is not water mist inside the screen.

How do I troubleshoot my bike computer?   I know is not a Garmin or wahoo or any flash thing, but is only a year old.  Probably out of warranty and I want to learn how tofix it.  Or to stop from breaking the next one.

Computer is like this one   https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/cateye-velo-5-function-computer/rp-prod26194   with wires, not cellphone or GPS.


texts: Wheel Build Questions for Those who have done it

texts: To the experienced builders. What are the absolutely neccessary tools to build a reliable trued wheel? The wheel will be a 700c wheel for a standard road bike.


texts: I have flipped over my hub to try out the fixed wheel for a change, I am finding it very difficult to keep balanced while attempting to ride backwards!  Does anyone have some advice or is there any trick to learning how to go backwards?


texts: Do calorie estimates for rides include Basal Metabloic Rate?

texts:
It looks like I burn 100 Calories per hour on average. Do activity trackers report the extra burn due to the activity, or the total including the base.

To put it in other terms, if it says 800 kcal for an hour's ride, can I eat an extra 800 kcal or only 700?


texts: How to loosen cable tension in disc brakes

texts:
I have a Victory VEGASJACKPOT bike with cable disk brakes, and I need to loosen my cable tension. How do you do this? I've already done it all the way on the screw/knob by the brake lever.
Thanks!


texts: Wald basket legs too short for cruiser -- how can I install the basket?

texts:
I recently purchased a large handlebar basket, a Wald 139-WW for my cruiser, a Trek Pure. I'm having trouble installing the basket.

Context: The basket attaches using hooks on the basket to the handlebars (no problem there), as well as using legs that from the bottom of the basket to the axle of the front wheel. The legs can attach to either fork eyelets or one can thread the quick-release through the legs, no problem there.)

Unfortunately, the basket legs are too short, by about an inch and a half.

The shop I purchased the basket from isn't of much help, and my LBS doesn't stock longer legs. Wald doesn't make longer legs, although they're willing to send me a second set of legs I can modify and attach to the existing legs -- if I can wait until they can send them out in two weeks.

I'm a little leery of attaching the basket legs to, say, P-clamps on the fork. Stability and strength are important here. Has anyone here attached a similar basket to a cruiser? Can anyone think of a way out of this, or should I give up and return the basket?


texts: I've got a bunch of small hills on the paved roads that follow along rivers by where I ride. They might be a few hundred meters (more or less), so it takes some effort to keep the same pace (or close). If I'm trying to build endurance, should I try to shift more or try to stay in the same gear a little longer? Is there a rule of thumb for how much you should shift in this case? I'm a novice rider with a decent road bike.


texts: What can cause narrow disc brake gap in TRP Spyre-C?

texts:
I have mechanical disc brakes (TRP Spyre-C), second year. Last year I removed and mounted wheels without problems. This year I am all surprised because I cannot adjust the rear brake.

Front -- no problem, plenty of space between brake pads. I can insert 2.5 hex key between pads and even tilt the key a little. Next I can screw in pads-screws, and then fine-tune it with the barrel.

Rear -- I cannot even insert 2.5 hex key between pads (in their neutral position). So basically I can barely put the wheel on, but I cannot adjust brakes at all.

Did I damaged something? Is there is some element extra to adjust?

I already checked and rechecked:

cable tension -- cable is completely loose
barrel adjuster -- all way in (meaning it cannot be shorter)
pads-screws on both sides -- (un)screwed outwards
pads wear -- I just put an identical pair on front and rear

I also removed pads, cleaned the interior (I was thinking about some sand grain), no change.

Granted, last year rotors where 1.9mm thick, current ones 2.0mm, so maybe this explains why I was able to put the rear wheel (but I am sceptical), but the problem remains -- why such a difference between gaps? Could it be my rear brake is faulty (by manufacturer) and I simply didn't notice? Or there is some magical screw (to fix it, or disassemble it)? Is there a way to remove the brake lever (the one at the brake, not at handlebar)?

Any help in solving this mystery is welcome!

Background details:

I upgraded in the rotor diameter as well, front from 160 to 203, and rear from 160 to 180 with appropriate adapters, just as sanity check I unscrewed brakes from adapters and it didn't change a thing.

Last year -- Sudden gap between disc brake and pads? -- I got mud (?) in front brake which had curious effect -- it didn't damage anything, at least I didn't notice, it didn't peel off the pads, yet it widened the gap of the front brake. So from current perspective it looks like it was a fix-therapy and I wonder how I can perform such fix-therapy for rear brake on demand.


texts: How do I know which size and type of rim strip to buy?

texts: I have a Gary Fisher mountain bike. I was changing the tube in my rear tire. The rim strip (rubber lining around the wheel to protect the tube from the spokes) had moved a bit so I went to adjust it and it broke at the hole made for the valve. I've never shopped for this part before. How do I know what size to buy? Are there different types? My tube size is 26 inches.


texts: Converting my Giant Roam 3 into more of a road bike, while keeping its hybrid identity?

texts: I am not rich so the budget is as low as possible. I use my bike for pleasure mostly as I am still a teenager. Of course I want speed, so I was wondering how well it would work if I changed the tires to thinner then they already are. Please tell me what size would be good, I ride on the road often, but I also use the sidewalk enough that a standard 700c tire would have to much vibration. I was also thinking about switching the handlebars to road bike style. Thanks in advance


texts: How do I stop my clipless shoes and pedals from squeaking?

texts:
I'm riding with Shimano SD66 sandals. They are awesome sandals and it's so comfortable riding without worrying about socks and shoes. I'm using Shimano pedals.

I'm getting a squeaking sound, mainly from one shoe/pedal at the top of the power stroke. I'm almost certain it's from the shoe/pedal because just adjusting the angle of my foot a little (inside the play allowed by the cleat/pedal) makes the noise stop.

I'm assuming that the shoe and pedal are deforming/conforming to each other and have started to rub at the most common positioning.

I'd normally look at lubricating, but don't want to use grease as that will track through my house and office.

Any other thoughts?


texts: Campagnolo brake, closes unsymmetrically

texts:
The rear brake of my road bike closes unsymmetrically which results in bad braking performance and the rear wheel is getting pushed to the side. The Video describes the problem best.

The arms of the brake move and close symmetrically if I uninstall the brake an push the arms with my hand together.


texts: Back wheel lock up, when got off wheel would move side to side

texts:
I have a 29 inch Iron-Horse/Sunday 24 speed. My back wheel locked up, when I got off the wheel would move side to side.

I thought I lost bearings, took my freewheel apart and clean. Doesn't look like I lost any bearings, but not sure.


texts: 8-speed MICROSHIFT shifters and ultegra RD-R8000-SS derailleur

texts:
I have Decathlon B'Twin Triban 500 with 8-speed MICROSHIFT shifters in the back. I am in the process of turning this commuting bike into my gravel bike. I already added new wheels and 35mm tires, Shimano chain and cassette.
Now, I have an extra Ultegra RD-R8000-SS 11 speed derailleur that I was thinking to use instead of the MICROSHIFT one. MICROSHIFT is ok but not that crisp. The question is, would it Ultegra derailleur work in this setting and what needs to be adjusted (e.g., limit screws)?


texts: SRAM GXP crank installation and rear hub preload

texts:
I just had some new BB bearings installed and am going to put the crank in but have two spacers/dust shields I am uncertain of position. I had everything laid out how it was removed but it got mixed up :(
Bike is a Trek Superfly 6 with a Sram GX crank. I have a note that the BB is "PF89.5 SRAM GXP" (Also how does one find a kit online for this? I relied on the LBS to figure that out but I do like to learn where/how etc...)
Posted photos of the parts here:

Have not really been able to confirm where the two black spacers go? One on the left is kind of a seal. Other is what looks like an aluminum spacer. The new seals over the bearings are shown held on by a zip tie as they came back from the bike shop. I just want to ensure I get the order correct. And wonder if the black seal on the left of the first photo is no longer needed with the new bb bearings? I suspect the black spacer(on the right) goes on the drive side between the "Spring washer" and the crank. And the left seal I don't know, but suspect non drive side.

Also, for the rear wheel I replaced a bearing as well. Its a sealed bearing and just want to confirm how tight I put the "cone" nut in before locking the lock nut up against it. Does it get set finger tight to snug so there is no play in it by moving it with your hand? Then lock it with the lock nut?

I'm more used to working on cars than bikes and am trying to be careful as they seem like they would be easier to break things.


texts: Older Shimano Road Brake Levers vs Newer Ones Quality (SLR vs Super SLR)

texts:
I'm owner of relatively new (non STI) levers of low Sora/Tiagra level, they are Shimano bl-r400 (Super SLR).

Now i'm thinking of replacing them with pretty Dura Ace BL-7402 (SLR). These come from early 90-s i guess, and were top of the line atm.
I dont care about weight difference.

So my question, is there any significant difference in braking quality (this is most imprortant), construction quality difference etc, considering the fact that there are 20 years between them.
Does 'Super SLR' really matter or it is marketing stuff..?

BTW, i use single Pivots DA BR-7402, so their generation match with desired BL-7402.

Thanks for sharing your ideas about that.

small fix: i discovered my current Levers are Ultegra bl-r600, which are a little bit more fine made i guess


texts:
For some days now I am observing the decreasing performance of my disc brakes on my MTB. Additionally, braking is extremely loud (squeaking). I don't think I have oil or fatty substances on the discs. Still I can't exclude that.

So what do you think is the problem and how can I solve it?

I would guess I have to change the brakeshoes but I am not sure.

How can I check the actual problem without wasting time/money?
If I have to apply new brakeshoes, how is this done safely?

My brakes are hydraulic: Shimano Deore BR-M596.


texts: How do I make a mountain bike go faster (commuting)

texts:
I just began biking around 4 months ago, and due to lack of experience I bought a Diadora Orbita Mountain Bike. I've staring commuting to work recently (about 14 km daily) but I'm not exactly happy with my speed (around 17 kmph with no traffic) that is after inflating my tire and cleaning the chains on regular basis... Would changing the tires into thinner ones make my any bike faster? Are there any other modifications that I can apply to my bike to make it go faster? Or would be easier to just buy a road bike instead?

 (generic image)


texts: compatible Shimano 3 speed left shifter (model: ST-EF51-AL)?

texts:
I have a Carrera Subway Limited edition 2014 with V brakes. The front gears don't shift any longer since I recently got caught in a lot of rain. I've been told by a cycle repair that I need to change the left shifter plus the front derailleur.

The original left 3 speed shifter, model is: Shimano ST-EF51-AL, isn't been sold any longer apparently and I cannot find it on the net.

Is there anyone that could suggest what left shifter could I buy instead that is compatible with this model?


texts: Quick release wheel is either too tight or not tight enough

texts:
My front inner tube popped yesterday so I changed it, but when I put the wheel back on the bike I couldn't seem to tighten it properly without it being too tight, or not tight enough.

If it was too tight, the disc brake would be rubbing and I couldn't pedal without extreme resistance. If it was too loose, I run the risk of it falling off.

I know theres a way to put the bike back together obviously cause I've been riding it for a while now. Any advice?


texts: Can I use Shimano 105's brakes with vintage bike?

texts:
Complete newbie here, looking for better stopping power and less rusty calipers.

I have a Nishiki Custom Sport with Dia Compe brakes and I was wondering if I could use the Shimano 105 5800's on them.

I've heard conflicting comments on the compatibility with the SLR design and the pull ratio (they state you need "ST-5800, ST-6800 or ST-9000 STIs for correct leverage ratio").

I kind of understand it, kind of don't.

My biggest concern is safety so that's what I'm trying to gauge at (that and the recessed mounting).

Thanks!


texts: Forgive my ignorance, but I have a 2011 Bianchi Pista that I've always ridden fixed. I knew that it had a flip flop hub, but now that I'm looking at it, it appears that I need to actually buy a freewheel to switch it over to freewheel since there is no cog on the other side. Attached photos of each side of the hub.


texts:
I am interested in getting a bike with 27.5+ wheels (that could features tyres up to 3.25".
I'd like to know what is the thinnest tyre I could mount on such a wheel in case I want to have more speed and less "power".


texts: Side pull rear brake is weaker after changing the cable

texts:
I bought an old city bike (and I think I overpaid for it) and after a couple of weeks both front and rear brake cables snapped the same day.

It has side pull brakes. I changed both of the cables, but the brakes don't feel as strong as before, especially the rear brake. Note that I adjusted the rear brake pads before installing the cables.

What did I do wrong?
Should I also change the tubing? If yes, should I put oil/grease inside the tube?

PS. I am planning to change the brake pads with leather face pads for rainy days anyway.

Here are some photos (ignore the uncut brake cable, click for larger):

UPDATE

I have changed the brake pads, I have put some oil inside the tube for the rear brake. While I am at it I have also put some oil around the center pivot bolt so both calipers can move with less friction.

For a couple of days it was worse than before. But now I think the new brake pads have worn out a little bit and fit to their position better and they are strong enough. The rear brake still feels a little bit weaker but it is much better.

Here is the old brake pad and the new brake pad. The old one is worn away pretty badly.

I will also try to install ferrules soon.


texts: What type of hubs attach on only one side?

texts:
I wish to build a tricycle and one of the limiting factors is getting the front hubs. I search for tricycle hubs on eBay and get nothing useful.
I need both the hub and axle or the axle dimension has to be a very common easily obtained bolt size.
What would I search for?


texts:
On my commute yesterday, I noticed that my right shifter was no longer 'clicking' when shifting my rear derailleur up into a larger sprocket. It still shifted fine, but I noted that I should look into it this weekend. On the commute in this morning, it stopped shifting altogether.

Symptoms

Chain/derailleur is on the smallest sprocket. It is positioned fine, no noise.
When I press the brake lever inwards to shift the derailleur up, it moves a bit until I can feel the shift cable tightening ever so slightly. The shift lever stops and feels locked at that point. (It will not go through it's full sweep inwards)
The thumb lever on the sora shifter feels loose and has no tension. (Normal for when it is on the smallest sprocket)
If I pull on the shift cable itself (cable is routed along the top bar of the bike) the derailleur moves smoothly through the gears on the cassette.

When it first happened, I played a little bit with the cable tension, but that effectively did nothing.

This has never happened to me before, does anyone recognize these symptoms and should I attempt a repair or are the internals likely broken in the shifter?


texts: "Le vélo de Tati” - Jacques Tati by Robert Doisneau

texts:
Does anyone know where i can purchase this iconic poster? I've searched the most obvious websites.

thanks


texts: How long is it safe to store new tires before they degrade in quality?

texts:
I bought some road tires that were made for flat resistance, but within two months, the sidewalls on both got damaged to the point where I was getting repeated blowouts. I wrote to the manufacturer, and they were kind enough to send me a replacement pair.

In the meantime, I bought some new flat resistant tires to replace the busted ones.

Now I have two new pairs of flat resistant tires, but I only have a use for one at a time. How long can I store a new pair before I have to worry about the material degrading, dry rot, etc.?

(not mentioning the brands here because I don't want to bash the manufacturer that sent me the replacement.)


texts:
I found a very cool and bizarre-looking bike in Berlin (in Germany) and was very confused about what it in fact "is"; Has anyone got an idea? — To me, it almost looks like some sort of cannibalized bike/moped/mini-motorbike hybrid:

The owner was an older guy who told me that it's "custom" but he had bought it the way it is except for the front case and Winnie-the-Pooh squeaker, which he'd added himself.


texts:
The saddle bag I own has two elastic loops on the underside.
From reading this question on long-term storage of tubes I can see tubes don't like changing temperatures (not really a problem in Ireland as the temperature doesn't vary too drastically) or direct sunlight.
If I were to wrap the tube (to protect from the elements and sunlight), would under the saddle bag be a suitable place to store it? At the moment I keep it inside the saddle bag but I would like to have the extra bit of space if at all possible.
I only cycle ~100km per week and it's a cheap spare tube so it's easily replaceable. (Doesn't need to offer long-term protection).


texts: What is the lifespan of a typical road tire?

texts:
Assuming no accidents, cuts, or other major traumas, what is the useful life of a typical decent-quality (maybe a Schwalbe Marathon as reference?) road or commuting tire, measured in distance traveled and/or time since installation?

Put another way, when should my backbrain be niggling at me to get new tires?

Related but not identical: What's the shelf life of tublar tires?


texts: Are there substitutes for chain lubricant?

texts:
With long journeys and particularly during winter I have noticed that the salt erodes the chain very quickly, even when I have lubricated the chain beforehand. When you are missing proper chain lubricants, what would you use as a substitute? Could you use cooking oil if you are missing the right stuff, or should I keep a small bottle of oil with me on my rides?

Related

Vegetable oil to oil a bike?
How to clean consumable metallic parts cheaply while touring?
Chain lube for winter riding?
Best chain lubricant for road bikes?


texts:
The headset bearings are going out in my bike.  How do I determine what I need to order.  See pictures that might be helpful.

The Bike is an older Trek 3700.

Thanks,
Paul


texts:
I've had my Trek 3900 for about a year now, and I replaced the chain about 3 months ago, but otherwise it's running with the same parts it came with (not counting tubes and tires).
I had to replace my chain because it had gotten really rusty from riding in rain/mud/water on trails, and had started skipping.

My problem is, whenever I ride, if I get above or below a very light pressure when pedaling, the chain skips. I was wondering if this could be caused by my chain, which has gotten a little rusty but not as stretched as the other one was, or if I might need a new cassette?

I just readjusted my derailer, but it still skips.

Does anybody know what could be causing this?


texts: How much distance can I put on drivetrain components?

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I figure the jockey wheels on my derailer will last nearly forever, but what about the rest: cassette, chainrings, and chain?  How many miles, kilometers, or furlongs do they normally last?

I know that there are definite signs of worn out sprockets—what sort of mileage is typical before the point where the wear is significant enough to require replacement?

This is for a commuter/touring bike with Shimano 105 components that is reasonably well maintained.  I clean & lubricate the chain every few weeks.


texts: How to evaluate different alloy types used for bicycle frames?

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Only certain alloys are used for bicycle frames besides other materials like carbon fibres (at least for the mass market). I often stumble over aluminium alloy 6061 and 7005 (and I think I saw 8004 once). It doesn't seem feasible to say that one is better than the other because they have different criteria like density/weight and break resistance. Increasing those criteria towards ideal values for biking (less weight, more break resistance) seems adverse, i.e. engineers have to make a decision between the material trade-offs when selecting it and I as buyer need to recognize their intention to make the right choice. There might be criteria which have non-obvious impact like better processing of a more dense alloy allows to construct thinner frames so that maybe an alloy with less density systematically results in a more heavy bike.

I'm excluding the price from the list of criteria to make the question more answerable.

I'm happy with a reasonable simplification like x always allows to build thinner frames than y while providing the same stability and is thus always light and preferable because of a. Or a sorting of relevance of criteria and a description of trade-offs between them, e.g. it seems that certain alloys bend before they break whereas others break immediately, but then under heavier impact only. I don't even know which one I want (I assume I can't bend the frame back after a crash, so is it a question of security? Can the broken frame be welded back together? Those a just example questions…)

I'm not interested in the criteria the manufacturer uses to select the material for the frame, like weldability, price during a certain period of economic up and down, etc, unless it has impact on the quality of the bike.

I hope you don't recognize this as primarily opinion based. I'm looking for a listing of criteria with relevance to using the bike of which the frame is a part - besides a ton of other criteria which is important in engineering, but irrelevant for biking (like the melting point).

There are certain clues, like "used primarily for less expensive bicycle frames" found in a Wikipedia article on the 7005 alloy, and of course a ton of unverified information in horrifying forums.

I can add an advertisement-like reference for the use of the alloy for different bike frames.


texts: Angled in drop bars like Salsa Woodchippers with slightly less angle in?

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I like drop compact drop bars but I think I'd like them better if they were angled in like Salsa Woodchipper bars. I adjust my brake levers to angle in on regular drop bars and compact drops because like my hand to grip something at an inward angle, not a straight ahead parallel.

I want to try those Salsa Woodchipper bars, but I'd prefer to first try something less extreme, like a cross between the Salsa Woodchipper and the compact drop bars I use now. Anyone know of such an animal?

(I ride more or less upright, saddle about the same height as the top of the bars. Slow, steady, but sensual. And classy.)


texts: Bosch 400 battery pack, that I have not used for a long time. The lights are not lighting, tried to reset and got nothing.


texts: What is the logo gear worn by non-commuter cyclists?

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I live in the suburbs where there are many routes for road cyclists to go for rides.  I assume these cyclists are riding for fun and/or exercise and/or to train for some kind racing events.  Sometimes they are alone, other times they are in pairs or small groups.

Many cyclists have big logos on their shorts and shirts.  What are on the logos?  Where do they get them?  I don't see these in the online bike equipment stores.  I can only guess that these are associated with professional racing.  In any case, it seems that casual cycling folks don't have normal access to big-logo gear.  Where would I get some?

(I don't mean to sound judgemental, but I see it a lot but don't know where the gear comes from.  I am curious about biking communities and what they wear.  I am interested in hearing from those who wear such gear.)