texts: Attaching frame pack — velcro straps or fastex sliders?

texts:
I am trying to build a frame pack similar to Apidura and came to a question — why do they use Fastex sliders only at the bottom of the bag and attach top of it (which receives most part of the load) with Velcro straps.

In my experience straps are not very reliable and can unfasten accidentially; in humid and dirt conditions their fixing power drops — does not look like very good choice for attaching things to bicycle frame, but still they use it instead of more trustworthy latches. And not only they — small bags from noname vendors, lamp batteries are attached the same way.

Is there something to be concerned about using fastexes? E.g. did you have any negative experience with them?


texts:
I have changed my tires to road and crank set to 48 teeth. The question is with all my current parts is there a way I can buy a road bike frame and transfer everything on to the road bike frame?

My MTB is running disk brakes, not a V-brakes.


texts:
So I've just gotten a new bike which has disk brakes, and it's my first time using disk brakes. One of the brake pads is rubbing a little on the rotor, so I decided to turn the barrel on the lever anti-clockwise to "take some tension off the cable" (bear with me).

When I pulled the lever and fluid shot out I became aware of 2 things:

there is no "cable" because my brakes are hydraulic.
I'm an idiot.

The brake still works but now that there's fluid missing do I need to top it up?

(I also need to learn about hydraulic brakes).


texts:
Recently, when I pedal sufficiently hard, I begin to feel vibrations through the whole frame of the bike. They are not so strong as to make the bike un-ridable, but neither are they road chatter. I suspect this to be somehow related to my recent replacement of a tire (i.e. the whole tire, not just the tube), but am unsure exactly what is making the sound.

The bike is a 1973 Sekine road bike. The frame is original. The chain and freewheel have enough stretch in them that I'm planning to replace them both again soon. The rims are true, but I don't know their age (came with the bike).

There doesn't appear to be any contact between the wheel and the frame of the bike or the brake pads. There is a periodic grating sound which also starting after I replaced the tire. Possibly it is caused by the metal plate which sits between the freewheel and the hubs, but I am not certain of this (can't replicate it when I'm not sitting on the bike).

Anyway, this seems like a bad thing. I usually like to fix the bike myself, but I'm not sure what to fix in the this case. Any suggestions?


texts: Where Can I Legally Ride Off Road in the UK?

texts: As it says in the title, where can I ride legally ride my mountain bike off road in the UK?


texts: Prescription glasses getting dusty and greasy

texts:
I cycle to work each day, about 2.5 miles in each direction through a moderate sized town on paved roads (I don't use any dusty trails or go offroad etc).

The climate is somewhat dry and arid with temperatures varying between 30c and -15c (I wear a scarf covering my nose when it is much below 0.) This issue does tend to get worse when it's very cold, but that could be due to it being more dry then also. I am in Colorado, USA if it helps, not right in the mountains but still at substantial altitude, thus the arid climate.

However when I get to work each day my glasses invariably seem to be covered in both road dust, which I know how to deal with, but also a greasy film like layer which I do not notice until I try and clean off the dust then ends up smeared everywhere and requires several through cleanings with soap, cleaning solution and cloths and is nearly impossible to fully remove, giving a cloudy smeared look to the lenses.

This is less of a problem on my way home as I can soak the glasses in appropriate solvents which eventually seems to clear them fully, but at work it really makes my day difficult.

I would really appreciate any advice on either different prescription glasses I could use to avoid this issue, or some way to avoid this stuff depositing on them in the first place, or even something to wear over them. Though if possible I would prefer avoid anything that would look enormously out of place doing road biking in a city (if it makes a difference, I am female and in my late 20s). Given I mostly road bike I am not an expert on the various equipment used for this kind of thing.

Eventually I might just get laser surgery to bypass the issue entirely but this is not an option for the next 6 months at least as I am recovering from another medical procedure.


texts:
I saw someone after buying a new bicycle (a hybrid), pulled the brake as hard as he could for few seconds and dragged the cycle along while braking like that, 1 brake per centimeter.

Why did he do this? I didn't had a chance to ask him but did he do this to test something or fix something? Is it usual to do this to new cycles?

Here one more thing I should mention is that the brakes are mechanical disc brakes and before doing this to his cycle, his brake tuning was fine and after doing that, the tuning was not fine at all.


texts: can bottom bracket type be determined without disassembly?

texts: Is it possible to determine wether my BB is press fit or threaded w/out disassembly?  It's XT 8000 if that helps.


texts:
I was on my way to a meeting, pedaling along,  when suddenly there was a loud creak. I stopped, visually inspected the bike, manually revolved cranks both ways, and made sure nothing was sticking into any revolving parts like spokes.

I couldn't find anything wrong so I mounted the bike again and started pedaling carefully. Then it made the sound again about 50 meters later. This time, I'm fair sure it was from the bottom bracket area, but of course, you can never know for sure.

I canceled my meeting and currently I'm walking my bike around looking for a LBS that is open this hour. I'm not carrying enough tools to go loose on the BB, chain or cranks.

My bicycle is a 1970s steel Benotto with a Shimano 600 crankset.

Anyone have any idea what this could be? Feel free to ask questions. I won't have anything to do for a while now...

I have tried applying force to various parts of the frame and wheels without being able to trigger the sound, but for all I know I may have missed the important part. So far, I gave only been able to trigger the sound by sitting on my bike and pedaling (both carefully and violently.) I have not heard the sound when just coasting, but on the other hand I have also not spent a significant amount of time coasting since it happened (if we exclude walking with the bike next to me, which I have done quite a bit, by now.)

Seat post is another possibility, but I haven't  been able to reproduce the sound when stationary yet, even if I shift my weight around on the saddle.

Edit: new evidence! I sat up and thought I'd try riding a bit toward my destination. After a couple of minutes, the pedals started resisting way more than they should in this gear. Both backwards and forwards. Coasting still no problem.


texts: Why are trigger shifters so widely used, instead of the twisting grip shifters(revoshift)?

texts:
I recently rebuilt my whole bike. It was in terrible condition. I also decided to get a new freewheel with more speeds. While i was doing some research and looking through shifters and freewheels, i found out that the twisting grip shifters were limited to only 6 and 7 speeds. I couldn't find any twisting shifter with more than 7 speeds. I personally find them so comfortable, convenient, easy and way faster to shift than the common trigger shifters. I finally decided to get rid of the old 6 speed freewheel and install a brand new 7 speed freewheel with a huge low gear for crawling.
Why are trigger shifters so widely used? I don't see any advantage.
Update: Many people said that twisting grip get stiff over time and are difficult to twist. Yes they get a bit stiff over time, but from my experience they still aren't hard to twist at all
Below image of twisting grip shifter


texts: Is there such a thing as a good Strida clone? What are the qualitative differences between any clones and a real Strida?


texts: How do different types of handlebar tape do in the rain?

texts: I'm planning to replace the handlebar tape (nonabsorbent, basic plastic tape with no padding) on my commuter bike, and I was looking to switch to cork tape.  However, I always park it outside and it occasionally rains, so I was wondering if the cork's absorbency would be a problem.  Also, what about leather and other tape types?


texts: What is this plastic part on caliper brakes called?

texts: What is this plastic part called and is it possible to get a replacement? It's commonly found on Shimano caliper brakes. I have a pair of brakes where one is missing both of these plastic bits and as a result, the brake makes creaking sounds when operated.


texts: Why did my rear derailleur fail in the middle sprocket?

texts:
Yesterday, I replaced my cassette and chain, having ridden the previous ones through the winter, and re-indexed my rear derailleur and checked the limit screws. Today, I had ridden slightly less than a kilometer on that when I noticed the pedaling got stiff in a manner slightly unlike being in a too-high gear, so I shifted to a smaller gear (i.e. larger sprocket), rode about ten meters and heard a snap and a ping.

The snap had been the rear derailleur breaking and I suspect the ping was from the spring in the bit left attached swinging to the extreme position. The derailleur was pointing diagonally upwards, and the chain was on a sprocket near the middle of the cassette, intact.

The derailleur was a Campagnolo Centaur 11, the cassette was Shimano Ultegra CS-R8000, the same size as the previous one, and the chain a Shimano Dura-Ace CN-HG901-11. The brifters are also Campagnolo Centaur 11-speed.

How did my rear mech fail, and what should I pay attention to when installing and maintaining the replacement so as not to have this happen again?

Edit: I received the replacement mech and when I was installing it, I noticed the hanger is bent inwards. I'm not sure if this is a cause or effect.


texts: How to seamlessly upload to Strava after a ride using a Garmin Edge 500?

texts:
I have a Garmin Edge 500. Records everything I need, but the pain is uploading and managing the data into Strava.

I just want to walk in from my ride, have a shower, have breakfast and see my ride stats straight away in my iPad or PC. In other words, I don't want to touch the device until the battery is about to run out. I don't want to plug in my device to anything either (usb, etc).

I know the Edge 500 cannot do this automatically as it does not have Bluetooth or Wifi, but it can connect without cables to the Cadence Sensor, etc. So why can't there be a hack or something to be able to "force" it to download the FIT file once within range of your internet at home?

The reason I ask this here is because I usually ride with my partners very early in the morning, and when I come home I have a lot to do before I go to work - have breakfast, get ready, kids to school, etc. By the time I get to work, and if I have time, I then upload the ride's stats into Strava usually around noon. By then it's "too late" as my ride buddies have already given Kudos to each other and I hardly get any, plus the ones I do get are days later from other people I don't even ride with. I know this sounds egoistic, but that's beside the point of the question and subjective to each one's needs of why we ride, etc.

Thanks


texts: Is it possible to upgrade a 6 speed mountain bike to 7 or 8 speed?

texts: I ride a Hero Sprint, MTB, with 6 gears in rear and 3 in the front. I am thinking about upgrading my 6 gears to something like 7 or 8. Is it possible, if yes, how much does it cost, and what are the plus and minus points i might face if i did that?


texts: Why do my handlebars wobble left and right?

texts: I got this bike secondhand, and so I don't know its history/what could have made it like that. And I mean they wobble while I'm holding them, not while I'm riding hands-free only. I've ridden a few bikes before, and they didn't have this wobble, so I don't think it's just a case of me not being strong enough to hold the handlebars straight.


texts: I bought a cheap bike to ride around the driveway/neighborhood with my kids.  It feels like the pedals are right underneath my butt rather than just in front.  Makes for not so comfortable position.  Is there a reason for this?  Anything that can be done about it?


texts:
I received a new carbon fork. Seller told me is was for a 56/40 bottom headset but after mounting it, here is the result.
I chose a ZS56/40 head set. What is wrong ?


texts: Route planning and avoiding gravel/unpaved roads?

texts:
I've got a Garmin Edge 810. Sometimes when using routes created with Garmin Connect or Strava Route Builder, I unfortunately find myself on bad gravel roads.

Is there a route planning tool that allows you to only select asphalt/tarmac?


texts: Help me fix a loose pedal-arm on a fixie!

texts:
Basically, after a few months of riding my bike, the pedal arms start to loosen up every few weeks after skidding/backpedaling. I ended up having to pedal with one foot for at least 2kms today (I know, bad idea).

What is a possible fix for this problem?
I definitely saw metal dust from abrasion. Also may have seen a bit of worn thread on the pedal-arm. Someone told me to replace the self-extracting bolt on the NDS. There’s more to see in the photos I’ve added.

I greatly appreciate all your contributions, this really helps me out.


texts:
My commuting/cyclocross bike (a Surly Crosscheck) has a problem.

If I tighten the quick release skewer to a normal level, sort of firm to close it, then if I step on the pedals hard at some point, the rear wheel basically comes right out of the dropouts.

To keep the wheel actually in the frame, I have to cinch the quick release down hard enough that I get a bit concerned about ever opening it again. The springs get mangled.

This is a somewhat recent development and appears to be getting worse. Any ideas?


texts:
I have a tire with 24x2.125 written on it, and the new inner tube which I'm planning to install 24x2.175-3.0 Is this too big for the tire and can be prone to punctures etc. or should be OK? It is a conventional bicycle.

UPDATE - I ended up buying a tube the same size as the tire and it fits perfectly. I failed to install 24x2.175 tube because a piece of it was sticking out, I worried that the tube would fold inside the tire and would wear off quickly.


texts:
This morning during my morning commute I had an unintended lesson in fixie skidding: I dropped the chain, it got stuck between the cog and the hub and locked the wheel. I'm not sure where that skill came from, but I managed to come to a controlled stop without falling, crashing into the curb, or swerving into traffic. Scary, I must admit.

I was only a few blocks from work, so after a good deal of not-so-gentle pulling I managed to dislodge the chain, get it on the chainring and cog and get going. I did notice during the short remainder of the trip that if I applied back pressure on the pedals, the cog was no longer being held in place by the lockring. Not that I understand how that could have happened, but other than that and the terrible skid mark on the tire, nothing else felt wrong.

Once I get home I will get a new tire on (kids, put brakes on your fixies, if only for financial reasons!), tighten the cog and lockring, check them for damage, measure the chain to see if it needs replacement, and make sure it sits a little more taut.

Am I missing anything? Not sure if I should be looking at anything on the hub, spokes or elsewhere...

Update I spent some time with my back wheel today. The spokes are all dented and scratched, but the wheel is holding up well. I took the lockring and cog off, and they both looked fine, same with the threads. After cleaning them up and putting some grease on the threads, I put the cog back in and tightened it with no problems, but when I was tightening the lockring it disintegrated: it obviously cracked during the chain jam, which allowed it to move out without stripping the threads. I am riding on the flop side of the wheel now, which has made for an interesting discovery of forgotten feelings. I had been thinking of taking a tooth off my back cog for some time, so I'll just go ahead an order the whole pack: cog, lockring and chain.


texts: Expected chainline from 103 mm bottom bracket to 107 mm bottom bracket?

texts:
Frame Windsor - The Hour

Hub Width     - 120mm

Stock Bottom Bracket Sizing - 68 x 103 mm

Miche Bottom Bracket Sizing  - 68 x 107 mm

Miche Crank Set Requirements  - 68 x 107 mm bottom bracket

I'm looking to grab a pair of Miche cranks which call for a 107 mm bottom bracket (most likely the Miche primato).  My bike currently has a 103 mm bottom bracket.  Will the 2mm difference cause issues with my chain line?

On Sheldon Brown's site, I read that 107 mm is best for 126 and 130 mm hub spacings.  I've also read that the Miche Primato has adjustable cups for tuning alignment.  Would this be enough to compensate for the extra 2 mm on the drive side.


texts:
I'm a beginner bike mechanic and am working on a used project bike I got cheap. I was just switching out the rear tire and tube for some new 700x25c Gatorskins and when I went to go put the wheel back, I found a really perplexing issue that I hadn't noticed. Namely, the derailleur side of the rear hub had this very strange offset to it, while the opposite hub had no offset.
When I went to put the wheel back on, I struggled with putting the derailleur side hub in, and with getting the right alignment on the non-offset hub.
This is the first time I've encountered this type of derailleur and I'm not sure what to do. Is it possible to get an offset of the same length, on the other side? Any advice?


texts:
Recently purchased this 1x11 rebuild. Decals have been removed and it has a fresh powder coat. The stripes are coloured electrical tape so don't go by that... I've heard it could be a Miyata or Nishiki but can't find either that have an exact replica. The lugs seem to be very unique.

Any ideas of the make/model/year?


texts: Is it safe to ride on an unevenly bulging tyre?

texts: Most of the tyre looks fine, true and straight but the section photographed shows bulging. The rim itself is true, is this safe to ride on?


texts: Why would each patch produce a new leak before resintalling tube?

texts:
I got a puncture in my tube (size 700c x 23c, Kendra, came with bike) and applied a vulcanizing glue and patch, then checked it. Before reinstalling the tube, there was now a new leak right next to the patch, but the air is definitely not escaping from the lip of the patch, just very close to it.

So, I added another patch. Now the same thing happened again: a new small leak right near the patch but not from the lip of the patch.

I noticed these new leaks before reinstalling the tube, so the problem is not anything on the rim or in the tire.

I am relatively new at this so wanted to see if this has happened to others and what might be causing it.

Following the patch kit instructions, I applied pressure using the kit box from the center of the patch out. Would this potentially rip a new hole? Do I need to be very gentle with this step?


texts: Is anyone able to connect Shimano Di2 SM-BCR2 to Windows inside VirtualBox on Mac OSX?

texts:
I have a Shimano Di2 with the SM-BCR2 charger. Unfortunately, Shimano's e-tube software only works with Windows. I installed it in VirtualBox virtual machine and connected the SM-BCR2 to my Apple Macbook. That was a no go.

I've changed the USB port settings from USB1 to USB2 and still nothing. Windows sees the USB port but the e-tube software does not.

I've read about people using VMWare Fusion and having some luck. But also read about people using VirtualBox and having luck. Not sure why it doesn't work for me.

Would I be better off just buying the d-fly unit (EW-WU101?) and connecting via Bluetooth through my iPhone?


texts:
I have bought a new used bike, I got it very cheap since it was pretty broken up. I have replaced most of the parts and repainted the bike so it looks fine. The only thing I have a problem with is the gear hanger. When I got the bike it was broken of and I have a really hard time finding the right one. The bike frame is made of aluminum.

On the bike frame before I repainted it said "Peak Pt Arlington". But I can't really find any bike with that brand. The closest thing I got was this.

But there isn't any info about it.

Here is a picture of the broken hanger:

Can anyone help me? Thanks!

Here are some more pictures:

https://image.ibb.co/fTCvXU/IMG_20180925_151050.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/jTA4Rp/IMG_20180925_151228.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/dCY2CU/IMG_20180925_151243.jpg


texts:
I'm trying to build a trailer and would like to use wheels with the quick release wheelchair hub/axle mechanism. What I'm not understanding is how these would hold in the actual half inch pipe? Is there a special axle that they attach into?
https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Big-Button-Quick-Release-Axle/634239645?goog_pla=1&variation_id=861854410&gpid=319078017749&keyword=&goog_pla=1&pos=4o10&ad_type=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6ozhBRC8ARIsAIh_VC0LjOKHj92CznjPkJIx45_nhlD9gO-4V-WkeJUu7QxG4-ezHIiGcWsaAg5YEALw_wcB


texts: I need to replace my kickstand because it broke, so I need tips like is there any strategy on how to choose and install that part? Do they all fit into that hole where they need to be attached, or are there different sizes of stand for different bikes?


texts: What is the cause of earlier rear wheel lock-ups in the wet?

texts:
I have faith in Sheldon and Jobst's arguments about hydroplaning.

I do not understand the action of a wheel locking up (entering a skid), other than the intuitive level of braking ~> locks up / doesn't lock up.

I do not understand why the rear locks up more readily on wet asphalt.

Today my rear wheel locked up much more readily, and surprisingly sooner than I would have expected—given that I expected early locking up behaviour.

Why does the rear wheel more readily lock-up on wet asphalt than on dry asphalt.

I've already read this answer: What is the recommended type of tire for riding on wet pavement?

I'm running 47-559 marathon pluses, the bike & load is 20kg ish, I'm 110kg ish.

The ideal answer would give both the science, and render it in a form that a humanities cyclist like myself can comprehend even if by analogy.


texts: New headset cups loose against the frame

texts:
Trying to replace the headset cups and race faces on a steel frame for 1" fork. Removed the old cups by gently knocking them in a circle with a steel pipe of the correct diameter. However, the new cup are a hair too small - although no wobble, they are freely inserted and removed from the head tube. The slack is much less than a mm.

The LBS said that this is normal, and that they can fix it, by inserting something in between the head tube and cups. So is it normal? The headset is this one and the fork is a cheap Zoom 1 inch threaded fork.

What should be inserted, so that the cups can be correctly installed? (I was planning on using the hummer and piece of wood technique)

EDIT:

I purchased a calliper.  30.0mm cup, 30.2mm frame. Тhe cup is really easy to insert while pinching it with fingers, although it does not wobble.

EDIT:

I purchased 2-component glue and nailed the thing in place.


texts:
I have a road bike with shimano front derailleur and dropped shifter. For weeks my front derailleur has been very stiff, requiring much force on the shifter to go onto the bigger ring, so the other day I decided to look inside the shifter. Presumably because of months of 'forcing' the shifter up a gear, the circular rotating bit of plastic which the end crimp of the gear cable slots into was pretty mashed up.

So I purchased a new shifter of the same make and model and installed it (new cable too), but shifting up a gear still takes a lot of force; actually, it doesn't shift at all now. I can move the derailleur directly with my finger and thumb, with what feels like not much effort - I say that with caution because I'm not sure how hard it should be to move it manually. But it moves smoothly at least.

I've clamped the cable to the derailleur, on the smallest rung, as tightly as I can but still no luck. Any ideas?


texts: Cartridge equivalent spindle length for Shimano BB-6207 116 mm Cup and Cone Bottom Bracket?

texts: I'm building up an old Terry bike and will likely pick up a NOS Shimano 600EX FC-6207 crankset. The corresponding bottom bracket for this crankset is the 116 mm BB-6207 cup and cone. However, given the ease of finding a new UN54 cartridge compared to sourcing a BB-6207, would I be able to use the crankset with a 115 mm cartridge? My bike has 68 mm diameter English threads.


texts: Is there any advantage to soft pedaling over coasting?   Does it provide any power to moving forward?  Is there any aid it gives to your leg muscles recovering?


texts: Tightening steerer expander/compressor and spacer positions with a carbon fork

texts:
I had ugly clicking noises coming from the headset before and after a warranty exchange of a fork (the reason for the exchange was on the other end). I have identified the clicking as coming from the interface of the top cap and the stem. I tried screwing the top cap more and less before tightening the stem but it did not help.

Then, after long searching, I found out at some forum that it could be the loose expander plug. Indeed, when I opened the top cap the bolt below was completely loose. Tightening it very slightly removed the ugly noise. As you can see in the picture the the sides of the stem are still touching at the upper pinch bolt.

Now the question if it is the compressor bolt (no. 6 in the manual) that should be tightened to 6-9 Nm according to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/files/index/download/id/90c31726193366031700722438038db1319/ , how is it possible that it was completely loose? Is it prone to get undone or was it an assembly mistake? Could it damage the carbon steerer when the stem is tightened on an uncompressed steerer? Is it safe for me now to just tighten the bolt, install the cap and mount the stem? I am not sure I trust the bike shop with this anymore, although it is a large company that publishes their own maintenance videos.

Another point is that the referenced manual recommends a 2 mm spacer above the stem. There is no such spacer in my setup, nor there is one in other pictures of bikes of the same manufacturer. There is a 4 mm spacer below the stem. Should I move it above the stem? Is it connected with the fact that the there is no gap now at the upper pinch bolt?

A secondary issue: The photograph of a higher end model shows a rubber dust cover over the top cap. I do not remember having such a piece on my bike, I only remember the cap was very loose once soon after the purchase. Is it important for keeping the dust out of the headset? Under which name can it be bought? If it cannot, I would just put a tape over the opening.


texts: What tool is needed to remove a Shimano HG-50 freewheel?

texts: What tool is needed to remove a Shimano HG-50 freewheel from the wheel hub? It looks like a 12mm or 13mm Allen key. Will this do it or is there some detail I have missed?


texts: I have a Hero Cyclone bicycle that is a single speed. Can I add gears to it? If so, can anyone suggest me a good gear?


texts: Are faceplates for different shimano brifters compatible?

texts:
I got a used brifter and the faceplate fell off. I am pretty sure it was a 105. It works well enough but it looks shitty.

Does anyone know if I can just order whichever shimano brifter faceplate, and it will fit? If that was the case, I might just get one to match my other brifter (a tiagra, I think).


texts: Converting my Raleigh Equipe to a single speed: Can I use a conversion kit?

texts:
I am a complete bike novice and am trying to convert my raleigh equipe road bike into a single speed (after a plastic bag blew out my rear derraileur).

I have purchased a single speed conversion kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LWVTCS0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but have not been able to fit it onto my wheel.

If I purchase a shimano cycling freehub (something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00G98QQU0?pf_rd_r=H50JHNAAZCRQN6SV9FQM&pf_rd_p=e632fea2-678f-4848-9a97-bcecda59cb4e), would I be able to attach it to my wheel, having removed the freewheel, so the single speed kit would work?

Photo of the wheel and removed free wheel attached.


texts: If the parts inside a friction shifter are rusty, should I replace them?

texts: I recently got a bike from my neighbor, and it has shifting problems. It won't shift out of the lowest gear on the rear cassette. The shifters don't do anything. I can pull the cable by hand, and it'll shift gears, but then it'll just go back to the smallest gear. I checked inside the shifters, and it looks slightly rusty, which makes sense because it was left outside. Should I get those shifters replaced?


texts:
I was wondering whether anyone had any retrogradations for a lightweight rear pannier rack and a rack bag which would go on my Giant Defy 2.5 (2009).

I'm doing a 3 day cycle in a fortnight and will need to carry the bare essentials (i.e. toothbrush, travel wash, spare inners, jacket etc.

Thanks.

nick.


texts: Combining Shimano RS500 crankset with Stages Shimano 105 5800

texts:
I've been thinking about getting a power meter for a while now. I finally decided I would get one, but now I realise that Stages only starts at the Shimano 105 level.

I currently have a Shimano RS500 Crankset ( 50 x 34 ) and I'm very pleased with it, so I don't feel a need to replace the whole crankset with a 105 5800.

I also have no plans to upgrade anytime soon to Dura Ace or something like that (the rest of my bike has the 105 5800 set), so I don't think I should buy a higher lever crank arm from Stages.

Now, I know something about bikes, but not a lot. It seems that what I have (RS500) looks compatible with the 105 crank arm (just judging by the looks), but I would like to be certain before I spend this amount of money.

My set: http://www.bikester.be/398351.html
Stages I would like to get: http://www.powermetershop.de/en/stages-power-meter-shimano-105-5800

Kind regards and thanks in advance,


texts: What hand signals work best for cyclists in the US?

texts: I am looking for some guidance on what hand signals and strategies to keep me alive on the roads.


texts: Lost bearing on disc brake for Kona Jake The Snake 2016

texts:
I have this bike, and I appear to have lost the bearing on the front wheel, causing the disc brake to rub up against the fork when I'm riding. (I'm not a bike expert, so sorry if I'm using the wrong terms.)
I was going to donate this bike, but now I don't want to give up so easily, it's a good bike and I like it a lot. Is there a part that I can buy that would fix this issue? Something from here for example?


texts: How big are pull ratios in Shimano 9-speed front derailleurs in MTB and road bikes?

texts:
I am asking about 3x9-speed front derailleurs.

The background this time is longer than the question -- I have a Sora based gravel bike and now I try to marry road shifter with MTB front derailleur with almost a success:

front , rear

small + big = works
small + small = works
middle + big = works
middle + small = works
big + big = works
big + small = does NOT work

It means I cannot push cage outwards enough. It is all about some shy 1.5 mm, I cannot believe I am so close to success and yet I see failure. It is not high limit screw on the derailleur, I am simply out of cable pull to shift the cage just a hair further.

So I wonder, what are those cable ratios, are they so minuscule different then they manifest in ~1.5mm of shortage pull? Or could it be that I have to use the same group for the derailleur and crankset (currently I have Alivio and Acera accordingly; for tests I tried not to spend too much money) because such behaviour is not caused by cable pull ratio difference?


texts: SRAM Red 53/39 10spd rings and 172.5 crank work with 11 speed cassette upgrade?

texts: I want to upgrade my 10 speed to 11. Will my SRAM Red 53/39 10spd rings and 172.5 crank work with an 11 speed upgrade? Looking to upgrade to SRAM eTap with the "kit". I understand the need for a new cassette (11-28), front & rear derailleurs, shifters and 11 speed chain.  Do I need new crank and chainrings?


texts: Is it important to have a road bike shoes and pedals or it won't make a difference?

texts: I bought a Giant TCR Composite road bike yesterday and since it comes without a pedals i bought a MTB clipless pedals but i don't feel comfortable with this pedals, so should i buy a road bike specific pedals and shoes -as it is a clip pedals- or it is just a matter of time then i will be used to it ?


texts:
I've been on the lookout for a new saddle recently and everywhere I look on the web it suggests you should try lots of saddles before you buy.

I went for a professional bike fit, which was great but the guy didn't have many saddles to try. My local bike shop(s) don't offer a try/buy service.

Is there any saddle swap/service available in the UK that will allow me to try some saddles? I contacted Wiggle (popular online bike store) and asked if I could return a saddle if it didn't work out - they said no as the rails will get marked.

What should I do? Just buy and ebay?


texts: Is it necessary to reinforce a carbon fiber steer tube?

texts: There seems to a belief circulating online that carbon fiber steer tubes need to be reinforced with the compression plug specifically underneath the clamp points of the stem.  If this is true, why isn't it necessary to reinforce (with a compression plug or in some other manner) carbon fiber seatposts and handlebars, both of which are tubular and generally subject to greater stresses than a steer tube?


texts: Disk brakes severely reduced in power after replacing bearings

texts:
so I am creating a few posts about bearings and wheels, (story so far):

how to reassemble mountain bike rear wheel hub and bearings

mountain bike freewheel hub stopped rotating

I have now got the wheels, bearings and freehub working.  Started riding to work this morning and I almost couldn't stop at a junction.  Thankfully wasn't going too fast.  I physically can not get the wheel to lock.  I have to use both brakes at full force to get the bike to roll to a stop.  If I only use one brake I would not stop at any junction in time.

Could the cause be any of the following:

Over greased bearings?
Over greased axle?
not tightened cone hubs enough?
not tighted axle enough?

I do not have any grease on the disk brakes them selves.  Rather nervous getting on the bike now.  Don't seem to be doing too well with this bike home fixing thing.

over greased bearings?

EDIT

Forgot to mention that it is hydraulic disk brakes.

EDIT 2

So in the end I took it to the LBS as I didn't have much confidence in my self at this point.  They had to replace the front pads but where able to clean the rear and cleaned the rotors.  (I had tried to clean the rotors but obviously not vigorously enough).  He said it was a bit of a pain to do.  All is working again.  They double checked my wheels and said I had put them back together correctly which is reassuring.

Thanks for all the help


texts: What are my options for replacing a Shimano Hollowtech II BB?

texts:
I have had a 'Deore' equipped mountain bike for 3-4 months now. However, there is grinding noise from the area of the cranks and I suspect the bottom bracket.

On a local MTB forum I heard that Deore BB's last exactly that long. So I am worried about replacing the part with an exact duplicate (for fear of short service life).

Do more expensive Shimano groupsets use the exact same BB or is it different for each? Do they last longer? Is it normal for a Deore BB to fail after such a short time?


texts: I am following up on this thread.  I have found a few rims that match the ERD (604) of my rim, and if necessary I can use one of those.  But I would like to consider others as well.  How much leeway do I have in the ERD for my rim?  If I get one with an ERD of 604±X, what's an acceptable X?  Or maybe it's 604+X and 604-Y where X!=Y.  Or maybe I'm overthinking it. :-)  So, in summary... how much leeway do I have?


texts: SRAM x9 3x9 with a 10 speed Shimano SXL FC-M660 Crankset

texts:
Ok so let's start this out by saying I have not a ton of money to work with, and really want to get my bike up and working with little cost as possible.  I have friends that have changed out parts on their bikes and have given me some parts to use on my bike that are almost brand new.

I was given a SRAM X9 3x9 front derailluer and a Shimano SXL FC-M660 10x3 10-speed Crankset for free and I want to use them.

My bike currently has Shimano 8 speed rear derailluer and cassette. I have Shimano shifters also on the bike.  They both work great and don't want to have to change those out.

So my question is, can I use the 8 speed rear parts with the 9 speed SRAM front derailluer and 10 speed shimano Crankset?  And use the shimano shifters?  What would be the major problems?

I would like to just have to buy a chain and use all these parts, and wondering what kind of chain should I use with these three speeds?  8,9 or 10 speed chain?

I know this is dumping a bunch of parts together, but beggers can't be chooser and I would really like to get this to work so I can ride.  My crank and front derailluer are junk and need to be replaced.

Thanks


texts: Will using this kind of parking rack damage the wheel?

texts:
In Copenhagen, there are many of these parking racks (as shown in the picture), usually people (like me) will just slip the front wheel in and lock the bike. After using them for a while, I happen to notice the front wheel of my bike appears to be slightly bent. I have not crash the bike before and didn't make any modification to it.

Is that using this kind of parking rack to park my bike will cause damage to the wheel? If using these parking rack could harm the bike is there any alternative/safe way to use them?


texts: Recumbent with a shaft or other non-chain drive?

texts:
One of the problems of a recumbent is the super-super long chain, often twice or three times as long as a standard chain. It's heavy, it's hard to adjust, it's dirty.

Are there any commercial recumbents** that ditch the chain for something else?

** I.e., not a youtube one-off experimental bike.


texts:
When replacing the rear brake pads I noticed that 4 spokes were broken and the wheel wobbles.  I phoned a local bike shop and was told that they recommend replacing the wheel if more than 3 spokes are broken.

I assume that this is a safety precaution but wonder if the recommendation is in line with common practice.  I certainly have no desire to get thrown off the bike in traffic, but it also seems a waste to (probably) discard an entire wheel because it might be damaged and might fail at some point.

This is a 27" road bike, inexpensive, which I ride for transportation in the city (Tokyo).

The rear rim is a bit scored from waiting too long to replace the brake pad, which is another factor to consider.

To clarify slightly, it probably would be cheaper to replace the wheel as suggested below.  My objection is more of an ethical one -- tossing something useful into a hole in the ground seems irresponsible.  Difficult to avoid though, the way things work right now.


texts:
I have a bike here fitted by OEM with:

FSA Omega Adventure MegaExo crank
FSA BB-4000

No maintenance or mods done around BB area on this bike. If you are curious it is Pinnacle Neon 5 2019-version. Only around 5000 km on it from new.
The crank never really spinned well from the start on that bike. Without the chain in place it does at most 1/4 of a turn before coming to a stop.  I have been asked to look into it recently. I initially thought to write it off as FSA lower-end cranks being garbage in general... But eventually took it apart to take a look. The findings are interesting...
The NDS crank arm has a self extracting mechanism (like most FSA Crank arms do) and against the expectations it worked pretty well. I was able to pull of the NDS crank arm and then take the DS arm out with the axle (no mallet needed). I checked the BB in the shell without axle and it appears to be silky smooth. I did the usual TLC on the BB and crankset:

Removed BB from the shell
Cleaned the threads on BB, shell, self extractor nut, spindle and retaining bolt.
Greased the threads
Greazed the axle
Put everything back together

The crank spins silky smooth until the point when I tighten the NDS crank arm retaining bolt. FSA spec says 40-50 Nm. The crank stops spinning properly around 10Nm which is way too low to be secure in my view.
There is a wave washer between NDS crank arm and the BB face which is supposed to preload the bearings. This wave washer is fully compressed and looks flat at 10Nm. Anything above that and I am compressing the bearings. By the time I reach ~40Nm the cranks is back to the same state as pre-maintenance - it does about 1/4 turn without chain in place.
From the situation described above I am very confiden that the issue is simply with the NDS crank arm sitting too close to to the axle centre when tightened to correct torque setting. Bearings are overloaded and cannot spin free. Could be a manufacturing tolerance issue. There is definitely no alignment problem as the crank arms spin well when the retaining bolt is at 10Nm...
I am really surprised as to how bearings did not get damaged after riding ~5000km in this state but this is off topic.
Any ideas on how to cure this problem? Anyone has experience with FSA cranks?
If there were any spacers, I would start by removing them to allow more room for that crank arm and wave washer, but there are none... Either none came with the crank, or not fitted by whoever was assembling it. And rightly so - spacers would have made it tighter.
To aid the discussion here is an illustration from FSA manual (not the same but very similar crankset:

Ironically in the same document I find this (which clearly does not help):

UPDATE 2021-05-11
Measured the frame with vernier caliper. It's 67.93mm so pretty close to expected 68 (allowing for the tool and measurement accuracy).


texts: Rear wheel touch frame during off saddle sprint

texts:
bike: Cervelo S2 Photo
wheels: Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon (wheel is true)
tyres: Continental Grand Prix 4000S II 23mm

Problem is that during off saddle sprint my rear tyre touch the frame and makes small 'hole' in it. Any idea how to prevent this issue? It is normal or with the frame itself is something wrong?

Many thanks for any response

EDIT:

My weight: 74kg

I noticed that is quite common problem in Cervelo forum even in top models like S5 forum


texts: Is a damaged BB7 inner caliper pin dangerous?

texts:
It was late when I tried installing some replacement brake pads, and for some reason the top of the replacement pads wouldn't fit properly into the channel that is supposed to guide the pads (lower picture). I didn't realize the pads were sitting too low after insertion due to an awkward angle and tiredness (and general incompetence). As result when I squeezed the brake lever the pin got squashed (first picture below).

Question

Does this damaged pin warrant replacement?  If so can this part be replace or does the entire caliper need to be replaced?

I assume brake force is not transmitted through the pin, as it is soft material, but I am not a brake designer so I am not certain.  Once I figured out the pads were not seating correctly, I knocked them in place with a rubber mallet and ran the brake.  Braking doesn't seem to be affected.

Side Note

Here is the channel that the top of the brake pads are supposed to fit


texts: How to dismantle Campag Ergolevers (hex key won't turn)

texts:
Following my recent question Overhauling 1998 Campagnolo Chorus Ergolevers, I attempted to take apart the right hand lever. But I got stuck at pretty much the first hurdle: undoing the bolt that retains all of the inner workings. Using two hex keys, one from the back and one from the front, and lots of force (enough to round off a cheap hex key!), the bolt would not budge.

Am I doing something wrong?
Is there a known problem with these sometimes seizing? If so, any ideas about freeing the seized part?


texts: Will 2 x 10 speed front derailleur work with 11 speed set up?

texts: Would an existing 2x10 front mech work with a new 11 speed rear set up? Using all Shimano SLX with 11 speed shifter, rear mech and chain. Front chain rings are 2 x SLX 38/28.


texts: Would a hard tail 29er be a good starter bike for road and light trails?

texts:
I can't really figure out what kind of bike I should be getting as a "loaner" bike. I have plenty of friends who want to go for a ride but have no bike, and ever since my last loaner got "borrowed" 2 years ago by a friend after the ride, I've been riding solo :(

I have a road bike and a full suspension mountain bike. I do light to medium trails half the time I'm riding, but I cover double those miles on when I'm on the road.

I want a bike that can be a catch-all for friends to join me. Previously I had a hard tail Specialized of some sort with not knobby tires on it that I left between 50-80 PSI. I also never had had a 29er before, and if I'm going to get another bike, I may as well have use for it too. My full suspension is overkill for the local rail trail.

Chances are though, I'll end up on a few good 20-50 mile road bikes with these friends, and I don't want to make them hate the sport due to having the totally wrong bike.

Hoping to get some feedback on how good or bad of an idea this may be! I'm eyeing a used Specialized Fate that's priced relatively well on Craigslist. (But there's a hundred other 29er hard tails out there!)


texts:
Motivation: I'm a casual cyclist (I ride around 4 miles per day, to school and work and back) but I wanted to get into unicycling to casually cycle through parks and the like; nothing too extreme, but just to be able to take it on a bus and cycle around the town.  I was unsure of what to look for in a beginner's unicycle, though.

Main Question: What types of things should a beginner unicyclist look for in their first unicycle?  Is it worthless to buy a unicycle labeled as a "beginner's unicycle"?

I browsed the other unicycle thread, but it didn't explicitly apply to people just starting to unicycle.


texts: How is fat bike traction on icy roads compared to a mountain bike?

texts:
From anything between black ice to 4 inches of snow (paved roads only, no offroad), how will fat bike tires compare to mountain bike tires traction-wise?

Please note since the bike has to be ridden on paved roads without any snow too, extreme forms of spikes or chains on the tires are not an option.


texts:
My key has snapped off in my bike lock and I'm wondering if bolt cutters are going to do the job and if not what else will?

Its this lock that I have:


texts: What can cause headset bearings to become loose quickly?

texts:
On a new-ish CX bike (about 1 year old), I frequently need to adjust/tighten the headset bearings (semi-integrated ahead type).

After a few rides, they become loose which is noticeable by a "shuddering" feeling when using the front disk brake. Additionally, there is noticeable play in the bearings when I pull the brakes and move the bike back and forward.

What can cause the headset to become loose that quickly? What can I do about it? I already tightened all screws on the stem to spec (the label says "all max 8Nm") after tightening the adjustment screw, is there anything else I can try without specialized tools or replacing the headset?


texts: Rim brakes causing vibration and 'honking' noise, like a flock of angry geese

texts:
I've recently acquired a new set of (aluminium) wheels, and at first they were fine, but now when I brake the rear lightly I can feel a shuddering/vibration through the bike. If I press the brake harder, 9/10 times, it will make a loud honking noise, which kind of sounds like an angry goose (i.e. it is not a squealing noise) These are rim brakes btw, as most threads I've searched are a similar problem but are with disc brakes, not rim brakes.

What I did was:

Took pads out, cleaned them.
Aligned shoes to braking surface
Used a business card to toe in the brakes.

This seemed to stop it for a few rides, but the noise has come back again. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I am also using the correct pads as recommended by the wheel manufacturer (Shamal Mille, with Campy blue pads).

Note: An example of the noise can be found here:


texts: So I just bought a bike for my first time as an adult, yay! More specifically I got a Schwinn Meridian trike. Just got it together yesterday and it rides fine but when I ride it or roll it forward it makes a clicking sound. Not super loud. The clicking appears to be coming from that little chain that goes between the front and back part of the frame. All the advice I found online about clicking chains is either for old chains or bikes with gears, neither of which applies here. I'm sorry I don't know the proper name for things. The rear sprockets the chain goes around seems to be just a hair off center. Could that be causing the click?


texts: Can I use a SRAM 10-speed cassette on my Shimano 105 9 speed groupset?

texts: I'm looking to get a separate wheel for my indoor trainer for easy swapping between indoor and outdoor. I found a used wheel + cassette that has a SRAM 10 speed cassette on it already. Will this work with my setup? Would it be easier to just replace the cassette on the trainer wheel?


texts: What are the benefits and drawbacks of different recumbent seat styles?

texts:
I've just bought a project recumbent.  It has no seat yet.  There are many different types - why would I choose a mesh one over a solid one?

Mesh style - a HPVelotechnik "ergomesh"

"Bench" style - a HPVelotechnik "bodylink seat"
This same shape comes in metal or wood as well as carbon fibre.

an AAZZAA brand seat

A homemade carbon fibre seat

A homemade steamed and laminated plywood seat.

Edit: In the end I was lucky enough to find a used M5 seat for sale, was a lot easier than making my own.  Since then I've acquired a complete HP bent, so no need to make one.   Both seats are in the shape of the wooden one pictured, and are made of fibre-reinforced plastic with a topper pad for comfort.
The main takeaway from my time on both seats is that ventilation and the ski-jump are critical, while the head support is relatively low importance.
Lack of Ventilation means that after a commute I end up with a puddle of sweat in the small of my back, soaking into my clothes.  Dressing lightly to the point of being cold helps some, but its unavoidable.
The ski-jump is the lip/crest at the bottom of the seat, the foremost part.  Picture #2 and #3 have quite a lip up, whereas the HP seat I have now has a curve down, which is horrible and feels like you're sitting on a wire, and sliding down.  Perhaps my back-side is a poor fit, so I ended up padding it with pool noodle around the front which helps. Basically if you're large, a mesh seat would work better.  If you're small/thin then a narrow solid seat would be fine.  For touring/all day rides get a mesh seat.  For going fast, a narrow solid seat.


texts: How can I stop a saddle from creaking in a spinning bike?

texts:
My housemate bought a spinning bike since all fitness places are closed due to corona.
It has an ordinary (non-road/mtb) saddle which creaks when pressure is applied on its edges (nose, back, left/right).
The sound appears to originate from the saddle rails itself.
We've tried replacing it with another saddle, but the sound remains.
We've tried taping the rails, hoping to reduce metal to metal contact, but the sound remains.
How can I reduce the creaking sound of the saddle? I've included a picture of the saddle below:


texts:
I've been biking to work 2-3 times/week this summer and I enjoy it for the most part.  My big problem is that my ride is mostly downhill on the way in to work and mostly uphill on the way home.  These aren't mountainous climbs or anything but for a newbie like me they're tough.

I have a 21 speed street bike and my hills are on streets in quiet residential areas.  What is the proper way to approach a hill in terms of gear selection and effort?  Someone told me you shouldn't have to stand on the pedals to go up hills, but that seems like it can't be right from what I've seen (briefly) of the pros on TV.  I'm completely in the dark on gear selection.  Obviously its easier to pedal in lower gears but then I feel like I'm just wasting my energy pedaling quickly and not getting anywhere.

Any help would be appreciated!


texts: Should I replace my 10000km Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour with a 2000km Schwalbe Marathon Winter Plus?

texts:
Background
I have one Schwalbe Marathin Winter Plus tire that is in good condition (used for 2000km, 10 months old). Below the winter tire with spikes removed.

On the bicycle at present is a Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour (used for 10000km, 3 years old). Below the summer tire.

I am moving to a country where I will not need spiked tires. Because of weight limit I cannot take both tires with me.
I was thinking of replacing one summer tire with one winter tire. I normally only cycle on tar.
Arguments for replacing the summer tire

10000km old / 3 years old
1cm long gash on side of tire due to piece of glass. Gash narrows to a small hole where the tube is visible. I put a boot on the inside.
Winter tire only 2000km old / 10 months old and no gash

Arguments for not replacing the summer tire

Summer tire still "looks good". Tread still looks deep. Tire not smooth. The blue of the inner layer is not showing.
From experience with Schwalbe Marathon tires, gash is not a problem (this is the 3rd large gash on 3rd pair of Schwalbe tires)
Concern: the holes for the spikes on the winter tire are prone to punctures ?
Concern: the rubber of the winter tire is different than the summer tire rubber. The winter tire will wear off faster ?
Concern: winter tire has more nobbles, i.e. the summer tire seems thicker

(Detail: Of course I also have a front winter tire. But the front winter tire has a large 2cm gash also caused by a piece of glas.)


texts: Which bike multitool should I get for a cannondale trail 3 2019? Which other tools will I need?

texts:
I have just purchased a Cannondale Trail 3 2019 online and the bike will arrive pre-assembled in a box. I am new to bikes and mtb, I have no tools or anything.

I saw online I require a multitool and a pump, but other online tutorials say you should buy the multitool that suits your specific bike.

Which multitool for my Cannondale Trail 3 should I get? Which other tools will I need? Please just the minimal to assemble and give basic service.


texts: How to thread gear cables through outers and end caps?

texts:
I'm currently putting a bike together with recycled parts and want to get away with not having to purchase a new gear wire. On my first attempt to thread the RD wire I ended up fraying it, cutting off too big a length and having to purchase a replacement. The old FD wire is too short so I want to switch the wire from the right to the left shifter.

New cables are cut and 'sealed' in a way that they're easy to thread.

For a used wire what is the best way to:

cut the wire to prevent fraying?
thread the wire through the cable outers and end caps without fraying?

It is relatively simple to thread the cable through the entry end cap and outer but even with removing the exit end cap it is difficult to thread through the last cap.


texts: How should I deal with bike messengers + others (salmon) riding the wrong way in a bike lane?

texts:
Frustrated cyclist "jegrgic" poses this question at the New York Cycling Club (NYCC) website.

They say:

  When I see this, I want to just go over to the person and try to give them some common sense. But typically, I just do my best to avoid them (usually by going into traffic) and swear under my breath while shaking my head.

Is it productive to be confrontational in this situation? Has anybody been able to educate them? Should we let the salmon swim upstream unimpeded?


texts: Bicycle trainer tyre - understanding the sizing

texts:
The weather where I live is very bad sometimes. I was thinking of buying either a magnetic or fluid trainer or rollers. I read that the tyres wear out quickly on those and one should use specific tyres for indoor trainers and rollers.

I'm a little confused about the sizing. In a sticker on my rims, it says

ETRTO Rim size: 584 x 19C Inner Rim Width: 19C
ETRTO Recommend Tire Section Width: 28mm - 62mm

On my tyres there's the following

37-622 (700 x 37C - 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8)

What do these mean?

The indoor trainer tyres I'm looking for have a few options:

26 x 1,1
700 x 23C
26 x 1,75
700 x 32C

Which one of these suits my rims?


texts:
I have a rockshox pike with scratches on the fork stanchion. I would like to know if there was anything I can do without buying a new one. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Here is a picture:


texts: What options do I have to charge my GPS and Phone using a dynamo hub?

texts:
I'm planning to purchase a supernova infinity-8 dynamo hub and wanted to use this during daylight hours to charge my Phone and GPS during bike tours.

What products are available that will work with hub dynamos to charge iphone and Garmin GPS units?


texts:
I am switching from 700cx40 to 700cx32. I have a bunch of inner tubes that I bought for the old tires and are in the 40mm range, but I don't know anymore what the range is for each (I didn't keep the packages). Is there a way to tell? Or, if no, what can happen if I use a wider tube (say, a 35-xx or 37-xx tube on a 32mm tire)?

EDIT: OK, I see, the dimension is written on the tube. So, I have a 700 x35/43 tube. Is it safe to use it on 32?


texts:
I'm building a 20" BMX wheel. I want to check the spoke tension, I'm not sure how to do that accurately. It's a high flange hub laced 3x with 186mm spokes. Because of that, the cross is just off center and makes it difficult to get a centered reading with the tensiometer. (TM-1)

Anyone with experience build BMX wheels that could share some wisdom?


texts: Bicycle Computer Mount for Small Diameter Handlebars

texts: I have a steel bike with handlebars that are about half as thick as today's bikes. Where can I find a computer mount for these bars or should I just use some type of spacer? Thanks!


texts: Jamis Commuter 4 conversion to derailleur geared

texts:
I'm trying to convert my Jamis Commuter bike with an IGH to a 10 speed derailleur setup.

I've got a bit stuck on the project with the rear derailleur.  Here's what I want to verify.  Looking at the attached picture, there's definitely a hole for a derailleur hanger right?

From my research thus far I just need to find a compatible derailleur hanger.  I assume my best bet (since this model never had a hanger) is to look for other Jamis compatible hangers and see if I can find a match.


texts:
In time trial races, I see people are using these big chainrings. Is 50/11 combination doesn't give enough top speed? What's the real advantage? I can only think of the negative, which is it makes the speed difference between two cogs wider.

EDIT: new info

I found this article One ring to rule them all: Tony Martin's Canyon Speedmax, stating another benefit of using large chainring:

  ... by running a huge front chainring, even Tony Martin will often have to use a larger rear cog, which will pull the rear derailleur a bit closer into the bike's center and thus slightly out of the wind, further reducing drag.

The chainring in the article is a 58T


texts:
I have been cycling for quite some time now (an MTB - hardtail) and I intend to go for higher speeds above 45kmph (on road). I typically cruise around 38kmph (on road). I can endure my cruise speed pretty well and for very long durations about 2 hours continuous pedalling. But whenever I try to maintain my speed at something above 45kmph like trying to cruise at 50kmph, I run dry pretty fast. Is there a good procedure that I should follow to attain this goal

! - I am specific here about the hardtail mtb. Not the road bikes.
! - I have good aerobic and cardiovascular as well as muscular strength. Applying force on pedals is not the problem. Consistently putting that output for a good duration is.


texts: Replacement or comparable model for my current Bottom Bracket

texts:
I am currently using a old mountain bike which is using a Shimano BB -LP26 / 68 x110 Size: BC 1.37x24
I am not sure if this model is with english treading or Italian treading. I understand the don't make this type of BB anymore.

Can someone help me or give me some idea to what other Shimano models can I use for this old bike.I am bringing my old MTB back to life. The frames are in excellent condition.

I need all the help I can. Thanks guys


texts: bike-frame-jig: customizations of a standard model - interesting features added

texts:
good day
i am in the mid of creating a bike-frame-jig.
the model is oriented at tanner w s jig: https://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Frame-Building-Jig/
see some the parts (here as Acronyms ) he is using:
HT - Head Tube
ST - Seat Tube
TT - Top Tube
DT - Down Tube
BB - Bottom Bracket
CS - Chain Stay
SS - Seat Stay
note: i found two or three very interesting "hacks" of Tanner W: see the following pictures:
modifications made by Kristofer Henry
a. HT Assembly - The standoffs sit 45 deg.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/blackcapstudio/4913284984/in/gallery-186428325@N04-72157715964842548/
https://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Frame-Building-Jig/

So here is the HT Assembly pretty much put together with the exception
of the bottom "puck" holder and purge fittings. The standoffs sit 45
deg. back from the centerline of the extrusion. This allows me to have
access to both sides of the HT/TT/DT area. I'll mount both standoff's
on a rotary table and radius the ends to make my hands happy. Now that
it is assembled, and I've had some time to stare at it long enough,
I'm thinking I may change how the bottom standoff is mounted so it is
fixed to the bottom of the extrusion and the whole assembly rotates
off of it. Taking a measurement from the top of the main beam will
enable an exact measurement to locate the bottom of the HT in space
which will be nice..

and see the following discussion:

Francois Cau: What did you use for the pivot point of the extrusion
part ? Is it just a simple screw ? (I'm trying to find a good/precise
solutions for Rev2.0 of my jig...)

Kristofer Henry:

There is a shoulder bolt that rides on a pressed in bearing. It's
pretty smooth and clamping action is good.

queston: - very very interesting .- Why did you change the standoff - with a 45 degree-skip?! Can you compare it with a standard - standoff
another hack: by kolb-Rahmenbau.ch
https://www.flickr.com/photos/186428325@N04/galleries/72157715964842548/with/3228571003/
he uses a very very big plate - see the right side  of the spine ...: the plate for the head tube assembly is very very big - much bigger than that one that Tanner W uses.
i guess that this is much more precicely .. he can work with a lower degree of measurement-failures
how do you see this !?
what do you think !?
What else do you like at this bike-frame-jig !? I think it is very very interesting - if we compare it with tanner ws jig!?
look forward to hear form you


texts: At what age/stage should my child be at before I start using a child seat?

texts:
Does anyone have any experience or references on when it is ok to start putting a child in a bike child seat/carrier?

I am aware that our child will need some extra neck strength to not bobble around too much with the added weight of having a helmet on his head.


texts: Replacing a chainring - what did I do wrong?

texts:
TL;DR

I thought I could figure out repairs myself but clearly I'm a moron.

I replaced the chain and chainring on my fixie last Saturday, and this morning it got scary loose on me. I started to feel what felt like slack in the chain, but when I pulled over to check it out I noticed that all five of the bolts on the chainring were halfway to falling out.

From start to finish, here's everything that I did when removing the worn ring and putting the new one on:

Remove old chain (do not remove crankset from bottom bracket)
Starting with an Allen wrench and a screw driver, I started removing the nuts/bolts holding the old chainring in place. Successfully remove three of the five. Glare at rust on threads of nut.
Fight with the remaining two bolts, which seem to have seized. Add a small amount of WD-40 to seized bolts. Fight some more. Swear. Attempt to use a hammer to tap on screwdriver to loosen bolts. Lament my lack of a third arm. Swear some more.
Take a break. Look accusingly at old chainring. Pretend to do something else, in order to lull it in to a false sense of security.
Attack bolts without warning.
Realize that the only thing I'm doing is stripping the nuts and coming seriously close to accidentally stabbing myself with a screwdriver.
Admit defeat, go to LBS. Get a proper chainring nut wrench and a replacement set of chainring nuts/screws.
Cackling with the newly found power of using the proper tool, removing the frozen bolts and the old chainring.
Small amount of WD-40 on a rag used to clean rust transfer off of crankset, then wiped down with clean rag
New chainring in place, finger-tighten new bolts
In star pattern, use Allen wrench and chainring wrench to tighten bolts
Repeat above for good measure
One last time, just crank those suckers as tight as possible
Install new chain
Ride to/from work, no problems.
Ride to work, almost die, s#!t bricks.

All told, I rode about 20 miles between installing the new chainring and the extreme loosening that I had this morning. Did I miss some fundamental step in this process, or was this just bad luck? What can I do to keep this from happening in the future?

EDIT: Now with photos!

I only removed one of the bolts because I didn't have the time to take the whole thing apart. If necessary, I can disassemble the entire thing when I have time.

Also, man my bike is dirty. :-/

Outside of chainring

Inside of chainring

Outside after I removed a bolt

Inside after I removed a bolt

The bolt I removed


texts:
So, I need to be able to carry 3-4 days worth of groceries for one person, about a mile from the store to home.
I'm not too keen on the idea of panniers or anything else that mounts to the frame. I don't want any extra junk burdening me during the 99% of rides that aren't grocery runs.
So, I've been wearing a backpack but its a little small and not well suited to carrying groceries.
Does anybody have a suggestion that will work in my use case?


texts:
Why is Shimano 105 5700 (10-speed) is more expensive than 105 5800 (11-speed)?

Does someone know?


texts: What exactly is Shimano's Shadow Plus technology for rear derailleurs?

texts:
A couple of years ago, Shimano debuted their Shadow Plus technology for mountain bike rear derailleurs. What is it and why would you want it? If it's such a good idea, why hasn't it been copied by other manufacturers or used in other groupsets?

Related: Why doesn't Shimano use shadow technology on road derailleurs? - which deals with the "Shadow" tech, which in true Shimano-style, is different from "Shadow Plus."


texts: New Brake Compatibility with Vintage Bike

texts:
I have a vintage Gitane Sprint from the early '80s which came with Weinmann 405s (single-pivot side pulls). I had been thinking about replacing the front brake anyway and then recently broke the quick release, which has been nearly impossible to replace without buying an entire brake and using it for parts. I was considering putting on a dual-pivot brake to help with some centering issues common to the Weinmanns as well as to increase stopping power.

Would a Shimano Tiagra 4500 be compatible with the Weinmann levers? If not, what type of brakes should I be looking for (whether new or vintage) without having to replace the levers?


texts:
I am building my first road bike. I have been an avid biker rider for quite sometime and always thought about getting a road bike, just never got around to it.

Fast forward to now, my neighbor (pro rider) threw his Scott CR1 carbon fiber frame in the dumpster along with a MOST carbon handlebar and Cosmic wheel set.  Now that I acquired all this stuff for free, time to finally build a bike!

My point of this post is first to get some advice on ... where to start? How do I find out what is compatible to this bike from a component group, to putting everything together etc.

I know I won't be able to do everything but I know I can get pretty far then I am planning on taking it to a local guy to do a tuneup before I get her out on the road.

I want to build as tough and reliable as possible on a budget (don't want to spend a ton but want a quality bike). Let me know if anyone can help out with where to get started, also if you have parts for sale or anything or want to trade for something, I am wide open to that as well. Picture is attached, let me know what year as well if anyone knows.

Thanks David


texts: What is this bottom bracket standard called

texts:
I am looking to buy a cheapish power meter.I Would like to see if am improving at all.

I want to know my bottom bracket standard and if I can fit a bottom bracket power meter?


texts: Front derailleur has too much resistance

texts:
I got a mountain bike on the cheap because of this repair. I'm not experienced with bike repair but hoped I could figure it out.

The front derailleur, a Shimano STX, isn't shifting and it appears to be because there's too much resistance to it swinging outward. When I try by hand to pull the derailleur where the cable lands, it's too strong to move. Only when I get better leverage, such as pinching the cage in my cupped hand, will it move.

Everything is all oiled up.
I opened up all the adjustment stops so it's not them getting in the way.
The cage is parallel with the chain so it wouldn't seem it's at the wrong angle, which would create resistance by joints rubbing the wrong way.
I tried weaving the cable through the clamping screw a different way, hoping it could provide more leverage, but that didn't help.
When I give the cable more slack, the shifter is able to pull it until the slack is gone, so it doesn't seem to be a cable problem.

It seemed to me that only the spring remained. It's resistance is too high, maybe? But how would a spring have more resistance than it was designed to do? And if that's what I need to try, I don't even see how I would get it off if I wanted.

Thanks for any help.


texts:
I purchased a new Mountain bike a month ago and noticed after a week or so the gears were starting to slip, this was expected because of stretch in cables and wear in etc so I took it in for a tune up at the place of purchase and when I got it back the gears were still slipping in places.
I then took the bike to a local mechanic and he said that I shouldn't be using the gears on the high extremes ie the two smallest cogs at the back because of the angle of the chain. I will admit I am no expert but in all my life I have not heard this, is this true?
Thanks
Thanks to all that answered! and to add to my question to clarify some points, i have 3 chain rings on the front and the slipping sensation is more like a clunk from the front crank when i put pressure on the pedals, its not a constant noise. this happens on a flat surface so its impossible to use this gearing on an incline.
It only happens when i have the chain on the small front ring and either of the two smallest back cogs.
I also get a 'ghost' gear shift when i use the middle front chain ring and either of the two smallest back cogs.
There seems to be polarising opinions about cross chaining which i will look into but either way i think i should be able to use all my gears if i want too. yes?


texts:
The restaurant I ate at had these wheels with decorative bent spokes.

Understanding that this wheel is decorative and wouldn’t work, could any wheel with bent spokes work?

For this question, I’d like to exclude spokes that are twisted or intertwined to each other - the bend has to be unsupported as the spokes of the wheel in the photo.


texts: Can a 7 speed Derailleur work on a 8 speed cassette I have a extra 8 speed shifters? and a wheel that has a 8 speed cassette.


texts: Is there any difference between professionally painting a car and a bike frame?

texts:
I'm getting ready to purchase a new bike which I love but I hate the color scheme.

I can't find any custom bike paint shops in the area. Can I simply take it to a car paint shop and get a professional team bike paint job? The frame is aluminum, the forks are carbon. Am I overlooking something?


texts: Protecting quick-release seats and wheels from theft

texts:
I have to say I am not a fan of quick-release, especially for seats. I do not need to raise and lower my seat nearly enough (almost never) to justify the annoyance of having to take my seat with me or worry that anyone could just walk past and take it with no tools while my bike is locked up somewhere.

My local bike shop has locks that you can put on quick release seats that make it so you require a special key, but they run something like $50 which seems too steep to me!  I could also just replace the quick release part with a regular bolt, which might be the way to go, but still somewhat insecure.

I'm just looking for feedback or recommendations on reasonably inexpensive ways to secure seats and wheels for some piece of mind.


texts:
I have recently purchased a new 'MTB' a few weeks ago, and have been enjoying riding ~12 miles daily on it on tarmac. I now wish to taste some off-roading on it.

I wanted to know how much can my bike take given its specs, and what kind of terrain I should throw it on to the best from it.

Here are the specs of it -


texts:
I am a MTB beginner and I just bought a used Giant stance 2. I knew from the beginning the bike is bigger than I should have, but it was a good deal. The bike frame is XL and I am 6’. Based on Giant size tables I should be 6’3”. I feel slightly stretched, but I don't feel bad on the bike, but I also haven't been on the bike for a long time.

What is your opinion about the bike size? I heard most people saying that is better to buy a smaller bike than a bigger bike, but my concern is if I will be able to ride the bike and have fun anyways. I suppose I will have to put more effort in stuff like manual, wheelies, but I should still be able to do that right?

EDIT: I am 24 so no longer growing.


texts:
I rented a bike with SRAM Automatix once and it was a pleasure to ride. I'm not sure what the brand was and I couldn't find any information online as to which bikes come with this hub.

I guess I could buy a wheel set and put it on any bike but I'm wondering if somebody knows a few popular models that ship with it. Thanks!

Update: I found IKEA Sladda that is available pretty much anywhere in the world and comes with Automatix along with other nice features


texts:
I've ruined two hex wrenches trying to remove my pedal.  I actually got one off after blasting it with a hot-air heat gun for a while.  The other one remains stuck and Yes, I'm turning it the right way.

I tried penetrating oil as well as the heat gun.  (Side Question:  Can my heat gun hurt the steel crank arm?)

What is my next step?  I've got an extra crank arm somewhere so maybe I cut my losses and go with that new crank arm.

Lesson for all of you:  use anti-seize compound when assembling!


texts: The piston on my Avid Elixir 5 brakes popped out. Does the caliper need to be rebuilt?

texts: One of the pistons popped out of the caliper on my Avid Elixir 5 brakes. Can I just put the piston back in and bleed the brakes and then they will be good as new, or do I have to rebuild the whole caliper?


texts:
I want to clean my disk brakes and am wondering if it is sufficient to only remove the pads and use water & soap when washing the parts.

If not, is there a list of stuff to avoid when cleaning disk brakes?

Thanks!


texts: What is the mechanical advantage of mechanical rim brakes and levers?

texts:
I understand that the amount of hand force required for a given braking force
depends on the mechanical advantage of the braking system, which in turn is
a multiplication of the mechanical advantage of the levers and the mechanical
advantage of the brakes.
However, I have not seen any definitive resource on the mechanical advantage
of the brake components. How can the mechanical advantages be determined?
Let's limit this question to rim brakes. Disc brakes can have their own question.


texts: Are Merrell Barefoot shoes suitable for bike touring?

texts:
These are the specific shoes: http://www.merrell.com/US/en-US/Product.mvc.aspx/22876M/0/Mens/Barefoot-True-Glove?dimensions=0

I'm going on a 210 mile bike trip this weekend and am looking for a new pair of shoes. Would these be appropriate for touring?


texts: What is the handlebar size for an old road bike?

texts: I have a 1980 Fuji America 18 speed road bike that needs to have the handlebar replaced.  How do I determine the handlebar size?  It appears that 26mm is the common size for older road bikes - but I do not have a micrometer to be able to take an accurate measurement.


texts: Selecting a front derailleur: parameters

texts:
The spec sheet for the Shimano Alivio FD-M430 front derailleur contains a number of points that I don't understand.

What does "Maximum capacity: 22 teeth" mean?
Why are "Top gear teeth" constrained to "44/48T"? Is there anything wrong with 46?
What is "Cable Routing: dual-pull type"?
And most puzzling, what is "Chain Stay Angle  63-66 / 66-69" and how do I measure mine?


texts: Fix / clean or throw away tire with 30+ thorn punctures?

texts:
I recently rode through a horrible thorn patch. I came out with 2 flat tires.

Upon examination, I found that the tube was punctured in 10+ places. Throw away.

The tire has 30+ small thorns in it. Some thorns go all the way through, others are lodged in the tire without piercing through.

Do I throw away the tire?
Can I remove the thorns, and keep using the tire?


texts: Do bike manufacturers use stock/shelve components or do they have access to special parts?

texts:
I'm looking at upgrading a bike, and was looking at competing bikes to see what kind of components they are offering. The idea was to take a similar combination for my upgrade, if I found something interesting.
When looking at the specs at the Giant Roam 1 2021, I noticed some inconsistencies in the spec sheet: the rated capacity of the derailleur is not sufficient for the proposed drivetrain (46/30 in the front, 11/42 in the rear -> 48T vs 41T for the proposed RD-M5120-SGS) and they also claim that the front derailleur is a Deore, without giving a reference. "2x" Deore that are from the MTB range are rated for 36/26 chainrings, not 46/30. In the trekking range, Deore front derailleurs are rated for triple chainrings.
So I'm wondering, as general questions:

Do bike manufacturers have access to a different set of parts than retailers do?
Can they spec the frames on a way to accommodate "out of spec" components? (so in that case, taking the same components on a competing bike might not work as well)
They do their own internal testing and consider that the combo they propose works "well enough" and take the "non-compliance" risk on their side? (I would assume this one on this case: margins on Deore are not the highest, and given Deore is mass-produced, it would be more difficult to customize).


texts: Max cargo weight for Gazelle HeavyDutyNL

texts:
What is the maximum allowed (cargo) weight for the Gazelle HeavyDutyNL (dutch)? This (german) store page suggests the max weight for driver+cargo+bike is 135kg; assuming an 80kg rider and 22kg bike would leave 32kg of cargo. This (german) Amazon review suggests 25/10 kg for rear/front rack, i.e. basically the same amount.

These numbers seem low for a steel bike that is marketed as "heavy duty", and the only advantage over e.g. an average aluminum trekking bike with the typical 25kg rear rack limit would be the additional 10kg for the front rack.

So, are these numbers accurate and does a reliably source exist?


texts: Are there any good reasons not to remove cantilever brake bosses in order to fit calliper brakes?

texts:
I have a steel bike, with cantilever brakes. I much prefer calliper brakes.
I'm planning to get the frame resprayed. Maybe this isn't such a great idea, but I'm wondering about having the cantilever braze-ons removed, in order to use callipers instead. To be clear (and to address some of the comments), removed by a frame-builder who knows what they're doing, not removed by me with a hacksaw in my garage.
It so happens that versions of this bike were also built with callipers. Perhaps that makes it a marginally less bad idea...
What do you think?


texts:
I am swapping around some hubs, and this means rebuilding two wheels, a 20" and a 26", both 36 spoke and both were done standard cross-3 lacing.

Here's how the 26" wheel hub looks after assembly.

Notice the two marked spokes?  They're both trailing spokes in this case, each go through the holes opposite ways.  That is, one is inside to outside, and the other is outside to inside.

Is this right or wrong?  And if its wrong, how wrong is it ?

Update - this wheel has been working perfectly for the last four years, and has done a number of MTB endurance rides without issue.


texts:
I will sound a bit thick but i'm no bike mechanic, to give you an idea of what make my bike is here are some pics (the bike isn't mine and the owner doesn't know).

the problem is that I cannot get the valve caps off I tried twisting and pulling, pliers are a no no due to the bike not being mine, here's a pic, any help is appreciated, Thanks.

Quick edit
Just to clarify I've not stolen the bike,
I crashed mine and it's the beginning of summer and I really wanted to ride, the bike is my mother's and just needs some maintenance. Also I appreciate the answers I've tried using more force but the entire valve seems to turn and jam, no movement on the cap. Any ideas?


texts: Would you ride with this tire with cuts in the sidewall?

texts:
I have a next to unused GP5000 road tire, 25mm, which unfortunately has three cuts in the sidewall. I would like to ask, if it these constitutes a safety problem - or if they rather are to be looked upon like regular cuts in the tread.
What is the verdict: dead or not dead?
Thanks,
Morten


texts:
Knowing next to nothing about bikes I bought a Parva hybrid bike a few years ago, which saw only a few rides before being put in the garage to collect dust. Now that I'm moving to a new city I need to get it back into working condition.

Is it worth taking it to a bike shop (halfords is near) for a service or is it likely that I can do most of the work myself using some sort of guide?

Cheers


texts: Loud cracking noise after installing new chain

texts:
I did some work on my Rohloff bike today, installing a new chain & chainring and reversing the sprocket.  When trying out the bike afterwards, something in the drive train was making a loud cracking noise under load.  First I thought it was the hub, but after a while, I tracked it down to the new chain I had put on.  Putting on the old chain was the only thing that made the noise go away.

What would cause this kind of noise on a new chain?  Did I break it or did it came broken out of the factory?  Should I try to get a refund?

You can hear the cracking here:


texts:
Does anyone know the correct order to reassemble a Triban headset (specifically a Triban RC120)?
I bought the bike recently, was raising the handlebar height, but neglected to pay sufficient attention to the order in which the parts are reassembled. Two of the parts stubbornly resist going back (a large thin rubber washer and a wide plastic split ring).
A Triban headset exploded diagram would solve this problem. I've searched online but have come up with nothing. I've emailed Decathlon but they say they do not have have a diagram.


texts: 9-Speed Ultegra (6500) with Mountainbike Derailleur

texts:
I want to go bikepacking with my old road bike. The road bike has a standard crankset (53/39, double not triple), and an 11-28 cassette. The groupset is Shimano Ultegra 6500.
Because I want to do some large climbs in the Alps, I would like a lower gear. I considered changing the crankset, but that seems a bit expensive.
I also have two old city bikes that have mountainbike derailleurs that I could remove: One is a Shimano Deore LX 9 speed, the other is a Sram s500 RD 9 speed.
Can I use one of these derailleurs to fit a 12-36 cassette to my bike, or will that exceed the total capacity of the drivetrain with the non-compact chainset?
I mention both the Shimano and the Sram derailleur because I think the Shimano is more likely to work, but in slightly worse condition than the sram - so if the Sram works too, I will try that.


texts: Storing a nice bike outside cheaply in the city during winter (weather/security)

texts:
I'm no longer able to store bicycles in my flat, as my current place is less than 20m² in size; Is there any way to store a bicycle outside in a way which will significantly minimize weather- and crime-related damage/loss?

The said (two) bikes are nice enough to sell for a decent amount of money, and so they're not throw-away "supermarket trip" bikes and they are rather pretty (i.e. they stick out to thieves). Selling them (for a decent price) will take quite some time, but time is not on my side:

Eventually, someone will either steal them or try to steal them (damaging them in the process), regardless of how massive the lock on them is
The weather will eventually damage them, anyway: Where I am, we can get to -10° C/14° F and have a wonderful amount of snow-plus-rain-turned-ice-turned-muddy-slush. E.g. a shed is not an option: I cannot (i.e. am not allowed to) build or buy any kind of free-standing things to put them under, and I assume that a tarp will get stolen or at least torn quite quickly (I've already had one stolen in the space of a few years).


texts: How to make my wife's bike lighter? Is it worth the cost?

texts:
We inherited a Huffy Stone Mountain 26" mountain bike. We live on the 3rd floor of a walkup. It is quite difficult for her to carry the bike up and down the stairs.  It has a fork with a spring suspension. Other parts of the bike look normal. When I pick up the bike, it seems to be front heavy.
I'm not sure how much the bike is worth now...maybe $50 bucks maybe a little more? Is it worth trying to tweak it to make it lighter or should I just trade this one in?


texts: Brake Cable Ends - Barrel and Pear Nipples

texts:
I can easily find images of these different nipples on Google, and as far as I can tell pear nipples are used on road bikes (in general) and barrel nipples are used on MTBs (in general).

Barrel Nipple

Pear Nipple

I'd like to understand more about them. Why have two designs evolved? Does one (for a given type of bike (or brake?)) offer advantages over the other? Or, is it all just "marketing"? Lastly, are there any other designs in common use?

Thanks.


texts: Safe to ride with Kenda 27 x 1/38 inch studded tires in snow/ice?

texts: I currently have Kenda 27 x 1 3/8 inch tires on my road bike. I live in a snowy, icy city and am a bike commuter in warmer months. I would like to occasionally commute this winter. I am wondering about the safety and challenges of riding with this size of tire width? I can have these tires studded at a bike shop in town, but I am hoping for advice whether this is a good idea. We have some ice and snow on the side roads here, as salt is not used.


texts: Extending range on SRAM PG-1130 cassette / cassette specification

texts:
I'm considering buying a Kona Rove ST bike with a 1x drivetrain setup. However, one concern I have is a limited range of higher gears (40:11 ratio for the highest gear). I would like to have some more range there, and would consider replacing the front chainring for a bigger one. Of course that would present a new problem in lower gears.

That could be solved with replacing the whole cassette or installing an expander sprocket, and I prefer the latter because of the costs.

The problem I have is with the specification, or lack thereof, for the SRAM PG-1130 cassette on the Kona. If I understand correctly, it fits a Shimano HG hub standard (?) and differs from the SRAM XG line.

In that case I should be looking at extender cogs designed for Shimano 11 speed cassettes?


texts: Indoor bicycle tray to preclude the rug from getting wet

texts:
When I take my bicycle indoors, and there's snow, ice, etc on it, the snow melts and the water runs onto the floor. Long-term water damage to rugs is an issue, and I don't want to leave the bicycle outside, due to fear of it being stolen.

Are there any trays or the like that will collect the melted water and preclude it from getting onto my rug? Extra points if they're cheap.


texts: How does stiffness in carbon frames increase speed?

texts: I have a Specialized Roubaix with a 7r carbon frame; the Tarmac has 11r. Will I notice a speed change if I ride "exactly" under the same conditions? Does the additional 4r = more speed? I am thinking in upgrading but I dont want to make the investment without some good feedback.


texts: Ordering in the right size, and making sure it fits

texts:
I'm fairly tall (6'4" or 195cm), and the bike I'm looking for is fairly specialised these days (a tourer, presumably steel, possibly with a sideline as a gravel bike/off-road tourer but no need for full-on CX specs and I need heel clearance).  I ride a hybrid.  My total road bike miles add up to about the same as a decent ride on my hybrid (42 miles) and those were on a too-small bike. So I'm not familiar with road bike fit.  I do know that if I can get the saddle high enough I'll be OK for easily an hour in the saddle of anything.

Nowhere stocks a range of tourers in my size. Even finding one single tourer in stock in my size is rare (tourers don't sell fast).

Of course many places can get one in, try to fit it, fail, send it back, try again...  But how do I maximise my chances of getting it right first time?  I don't see that a rough fit on a typical road bike or even a CX bike would be very informative, as I'm after the long wheelbase, relaxed geometry of a tourer.  It feels like I could extrapolate as well from flat bars. I'd almost be glad if these assumptions were wrong, but I might take a little convincing.

The next step of course is testing it to make sure it fits -- with everything set nominally right it will feel a bit odd as I'm used to flat bars.  How can I tell whether this is bad-odd or OK-odd in a short test ride?

Part of my concern is that I'm looking at the Genesis Tour de Fer, and I'm at the top end of the largest size -- by some shops' size guides I should be OK, but not according to others (including the one I may buy it from)


texts: How can I repair a tyre with a deep cut?

texts: I have some foldable racing tyres, still with plenty of tread but with some small cuts through the tread & cloth.  Can I do anything to them or are they destined for the bin?


texts:
I want to swap out my front wheel (solid axle) with another wheel (quick release axle). Issue is, I DO NOT want to use quick release for various reasons.

I have tried janking out the quick release axle without luck (having seen a few tutorials online). Being a fool, I've scratched/damaged the hub/axle quite a bit. Using my common sense, I figured that there is a little ring on both sides that is stopping the axle from sliding out (see picture underneath):

You can't really see the damage in the picture above but I've quite messed up the metal/paint on the hub/axle on the other side.

How do I get this thing out if possible? (by removing the little ring perhaps? I tried but can't really get the ring out, it's on there tight with little room to work with)
Can I even put in a solid axle in this wheel/hub?

Crucial information:

Current front wheel is a Miche Pistard WR
'new' front wheel is a Campagnolo Khamsin G3. Even though I've almost obliberated the hub/axle, wheel seems to be spinning fine and true still.
I am a mere novice with no bicycle skills whatsoever but I am trying to learn.


texts: What does the "c" in bicycle tire size mean?

texts:
For instance, in some cases I will see a particular bike tire listed as available in 700x25, 700x25c, 700c x 25, and 700 x 25mm.  (Just picking out a number here, it could be 23, 25, 27, etc.)

What, if any, is the difference between these?  I would think that 700x25 is the same as 700 x 25mm, but I'm not so sure about the "c" when it lists both "700x25" and "700x25c" as sizes for the same tire on the same site, and lists different prices for each!


texts: Where can I find statistics on the growth of US & worldwide bicycle use and business?

texts:
I'm having trouble finding up-to-date information on the growth of cycling in the US and across the globe. How rapidly is the cycling industry growing? In what country is cycling growing fastest? Is the industry growing in lock-step with new cyclists or are established cyclists just purchasing more cycling goods? Where are the most new cyclists hopping on bicycles?

Many questions, I know, and don't expect them all answered. More broadly: Where can I find, or can anyone provide, statistics that demonstrate the trajectory of bike use?


texts: Quiet and strong chain recommendation for fixed gear commuter bike

texts:
I went through a couple of chains on my fixie bike, but I was not too happy with any of them.
Basically they seemed pretty noisy when more pressure was applied where cycling.

Could you recommend one that would be both strong and quiet.

Thanks


texts: Rear wheel is not locking when I am braking

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So when I put my rear brake on my wheel doesn’t fully stop (skid) and I can keep on pedalling when I have got it full on. And then the same happens with my front brake, I can have both of them bottoming out but I can still move the bike!
Can someone please tell why this is?


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Some forks come with already drilled mounting points for bottle cages:

I have exactly this one, CroMo fork and I wonder what is the maximum load of it (I am asking about single "leg", one side). I am looking at 1.5kg (3.3lb) -- it would solve my water resources problem -- but I am afraid of rotational forces and I don't want to damage anything during the trip.

So how much load I can put on CroMo fork without destroying it.


texts: I have this MTB with Deore M5100 groupset (2 x 11 speed) and I want to convert this MTB to gravel bike. (Converting from straight bars to drop bars.) Is there any brifter compatible for this series? Has anyone tried something similar?


texts: How to tighten v-brake pad without turning it out of position?

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I find it hard to tighten the hexagonal bolt of a v-brake pad without turning the whole pad out of position. I need to hold it in place somehow; I've tried with a big adjustable wrench, but it's still difficult (doesn't fit very well, and the pad is flexy).
Why isn't a small part of the pad body hexagonal so I can hold it with a wrench while tightening?

What's the proper way to tighten the pad onto the arm?


texts: What is the difference between DOT brake fluids?

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I know that the two main categories are the mineral oil (Shimano, Magura) and the DOT type (Avid, Hayes).

But what is the difference between the DOT 3, DOT4, DOT 5.1?
Which one should I choose for average mountain biking?


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Sometimes at a crossing, when one wants to turn right for example, the "new" street has a different surface and there is a small step (2-4 cm) to get there.

These kind of steps are already unconfortable to apprehend when getting the from the front but when one's turning right, even getting a 45 degrees angle is not always easy.

How should one proceed?
How big a step can a wheel handle? should I stand up? hop somehow?

And when one is facing the obstacle, how to proceed? angle is not a problem, but should one ride slowly towards it? or as fast as possible?

What is the safest way?


texts: Is it generally possible to convert a drivetrain on a bike from a chain to belt drive?  What exactly is involved with this task?


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I am trying too reply to my question on merging routes/tracks but there is no reply button??

see this dropbox link fo rone of the files:-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7i5afte16zel6n/End%20to%20End%20-%20Day%201%20-%20Lands%20Ends%20to%20St%20Just.gpx?dl=0


texts: How can I determine whether rust has made my bike unsafe?

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I ride a 1972 steel frame bike year round through Canadian winters.

When I got the bike it was in good shape, but after putting a few thousand km worth of commuting on it, it has a lot of scratches in the paint - mostly from things like road salt getting kicked up at speed.

In the course of the last winter, despite my best efforts, many of these spots started to rust. I can remove most of the rust spots with careful application of steel wool, but I'm now a little worried about the structural integrity of the bike. I notice some creaking when I shift more of my weight to the bars for instance.

How can I tell whether a bike with some rust damage is still safe to ride on?


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I'm new on the cycling scene and I'm looking to build a bike. I'm a bit worried about my route home, since although only 5KM it's quite steep in places, with 0.25KM being at a 16% incline, and the rest floating somewhere between 3-6%.

Start altitude: 14 metres
End altitude: 99 metres
Maximum altitude: 99 metres
Minimum altitude: 11 metres
Distance: 5 km
Total ascent: 125 metres
Total descent: 40 metres
Maximum gradient ascending: 16% at 2.6 km
Maximum gradient descending: 8% at 3.4 km

I quite like the idea of an internal gear hub, but I'm wondering if that's a bad idea given the gradient and my lack of experience. Is it as simple as just using the pedal gear to vary the ratio going into the IGH, or is it a case that the IGH is simply not a sensible choice for this kind of gradient.


texts: How do I calculate the power required to climb a hill at a given cadence?

texts: Suppose I ride at a cadence of 50RPM for 10 minutes with a 39x23 gear ratio on a hill with 10% grade. Is there a simple formula to calculate the power output required?