ON the subject of brunch, the chef Colin Alevras holds inflexible opinions.

For example: “I love to go to brunch, but I don’t want to stand in line with the rest of those lunatics. There’s no reason you should ever do that. Ever.”

And: “Espresso has no place at brunch. None.”

The topic was much on his mind this summer as he drew up plans for Permanent Brunch, a forthcoming East Village spot that will serve eggs, waffles, red flannel hash, bloody marys and silver dollar pancakes, all staples of morning eating. Mr. Alevras intends to offer them all day, and all night on weekends.

If it seems like a step down in the world for the former chef and co-owner of the Tasting Room, Mr. Alevras says that is fine with him. What started as a homey little East Village wine bar in 1999 very quickly turned into a restaurant. The bigger, grander Tasting Room he opened on Elizabeth Street in 2006 was a restaurant, capital R, underlined twice.

After nearly nine years of painstaking shopping and at times esoteric cooking, he seems to view Permanent Brunch as a welcome chance to let some of the air out of his own head.

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“I just think it will be fun after running the Tasting Room and all that ego intensity,” he said. “If you’re making up your own food, nobody can tell you if you’re right or wrong, which sometimes you are.”

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At Permanent Brunch, and with a second restaurant he is also trying to open this fall, a Cuban place called La Otra on Avenue A, he is working in known idioms. For La Otra he has been soaking up Caribbean history. His research for Permanent Brunch has been less bookish.