First, Vandy’s sauce. It is honey-colored, thick as heavy cream, mustard-twangy and just a wee bit sweet. If the only thing this restaurant served was white bread topped with sauce, I’d be a regular. On chopped pork, the sauce is a divine halo. The pork delivers an infinite variety of textures — chewy, crunchy, brittle, soft, moist — and its smoke flavor is subtle and alluring. It is lean without a speck of fat, and yet overwhelmingly luxurious, as emphatically unctuous as meat with prime marbling.

After having stepped up to the counter to place my order, I found a seat and soon heard the appetizing sound of cleavers slamming into a cutting board, hacking pork to smithereens for my plate and sandwich. Both come with a drizzle of the alchemical sauce, and a plastic squeeze bottle of more sauce is provided. The bottle is warm — the kind of detail that makes Vandy’s a four-star eating experience despite its very humble appearance. (There is red sauce, too, but it is not in the same league as the gold.)

Located just off Main Street downtown, Vandy’s has been a Statesboro institution since 1929. It is located in a stark little building that has a foreboding mien from the street. But inside, friendly hospitality and good cheer reign. Locals gather for breakfast (eggs, etc.) starting at 6am; the day’s barbecue usually is ready by 10.

Note: There is a second Vandy’s at the Statesboro Mall, 718 Northside Drive. (912-764-3033) It is open on Sunday and also serves dinner until 9pm Monday through Saturday.