Epicurious lists Mosca’s among one of “10 Restaurants New Orleanians Won’t Tell You About”. A fellow blogger wrote in reference to its remote location and sometimes abandoned look, “The first time I was taken to Mosca’s I was thoroughly convinced I was about to be killed and eaten.” My own experience as a concierge at the Royal Orleans in the early 90’s included rumors that Mosca’s had “a lime pit out back for disposal”. I wasn’t too young back then to understand the implication of what things might be disposed. Why is this place shrouded in such playful fear and curiosity? For decades it has been rumored that Provino Mosca, the restaurant’s founder, was once Al Capone’s personal chef and/or driver in Chicago (false) after Mosca immigrated from Italy to the Second City in 1913 (true). However, Mosca’s daughter-in-law’s grandmother did once cater a baptism at which Capone was the godfather – literally, not figuratively (true). It is also said that Carlos Marcello, boss of the New Orleans crime family in the 1940’s, was a regular there (true), and his family still owns the building (also true). Mosca’s is not recommended to the average tourist by locals (true), but only because they don’t think anyone else will “get” it and not because of its reputed mafia connections. There is no lime pit, by the way. Mosca’s is an out-of-the-way, Creole-Italian, cash-only roadhouse restaurant on the West Bank that serves its customers wine in lowball glasses and whose décor hasn’t changed much since the restaurant opened 70 years ago. It’s a jukebox rife with old classics, from Louis Prima to Johnny Cash, set against the occasional whirring of the window units that supplement the central air/heat. It’s a family-style, no rush kind of place; the restaurant asks for at least 50 minutes to prepare its made-to-order entrees. It’s a dive whose storied history includes being open for lunch to feed the workers at nearby Avondale Shipyards and remaining open until the wee hours to serve customers from the gambling joints that were once prevalent in the area (hours are now a strict 5:30pm-9:30pm, Tues.- Sat., with the shipyard and gambling long gone). Hands down, Mosca’s is quintessentially New Orleans! Our group of six headed there last Saturday night in celebration of a birthday, and whereas the nondescript building isn’t hard to find it is easy to pass up if you aren’t paying attention. Mosca’s sits on a slightly deserted stretch of Hwy 90 in Westwego with only a tiny break in the neutral ground for westbound drivers making the left hand turn into the packed parking lot. Upon arriving it became obvious that Mosca’s is a destination for a lot of large groups. Seeing the entrée portions coming out of the kitchen made it clear why: don’t come here if you’re not hungry nor willing to try several different things most of which are loaded with garlic. After a short wait at the bar, which boasts plenty of options minus beer on tap and fountain drinks, we were seated and greeted with freshly baked Italian bread with plates of very large pats of butter. Wine was chosen, a pleasing Sangiovese, and we opted for short glasses instead of stems just as they do in the old country. We followed with a double order of Italian crabmeat salad that wasn’t much to look at but was packed with flavor: iceberg lettuce tossed with oil and vinegar and topped with giardiniera (an Italian relish of pickled vegetables) and loads of fresh jumbo lump crabmeat. For entrees it was suggested by our friendly waitress that we each order a different one so that we could sample most of what made Mosca’s famous. Our choices were Spaghetti and Meatballs, Spaghetti Bordelaise (New Orleans style, without a drop of red wine), Sausage Johnny with roasted potatoes, Shrimp Mosca (headless in shell sautéed with Italian seasonings and white wine), and the renowned Oysters Mosca and Chicken a La Grande. All of the dishes came out about an hour later, as promised, and each was absolutely delicious. Mosca’s “red gravy” is to die for, and I’m thoroughly convinced that olive oil, butter, and garlic is the best kitchen mashup ever created and when tossed with pasta becomes sinful. My favorite dish, although everyone had a different one, was the Oysters Mosca. Green onions, parsley, and garlic are first sautéed in olive oil and butter and then blended with salt, pepper (both black and cayenne), basil, and oregano. This mixture is then poured over a single layer of oysters arranged in a shallow baking dish, topped with bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, and baked until hot and bubbly. The popular Chicken a La Grande is presented with pieces of an entire chicken sautéed in olive oil with rosemary, oregano, an abundance of w hole cloves of unpeeled garlic, and white wine. One of the highlights of the night was wrestling the roasted garlic from its brittle skin and spreading over bread dipped into the pan juices. We made quick work of all six entrees before ending the meal with a pot of strong espresso and housemade cheesecake. They were out of their signature Pineapple Fluff which is reportedly just heavily whipped cream and canned pineapple. Mosca’s isn’t at the forefront of food innovation and has never been aimed to be revolutionary in its cooking. This old classic is a perfect reminder that great food is oftentimes simple and doesn’t need to be served in fancy surroundings and with pretense. Family run since Provino and his wife, Lisa, opened the restaurant in 1946, Mosca’s is best enjoyed with the people you love most as the camaraderie is palpable and the aromas irresistible. Get a group together, pick a designated driver, and enjoy the journey out to Mosca’s for an off the beaten path adventure. It’s definitely a worthwhile experience and a must for culinary aficionados.

Mosca’s

4137 US-90

Westwego, LA 70094

(504) 436-8950

Must tries: Italian Crab Salad, Oysters Mosca, Chicken a La Grande, spaghetti with red gravy or Bordelaise or both!

Misses: Cash only, but there is an ATM on premise; interior is datedly charming and some might think it could use even just a little updating

Mood: boisterous and happy – everyone seems genuinely pleased to have made it there; great for a special occasion with a big group or a family night out

“We’d have to close the restaurant.” Mary Jo Mosca on apologizing for her absence at the New York ceremony where Mosca’s received a James Beard award in 1999.