Love it or hate it, the gym can be pretty damn useful for improving your climbing!













So I have been making my own training programs for a few years now. Through the course of trial and error, a lot of reading, and a fair amount of thinking, I have settled onto some basic principles that have worked pretty well for me. Occasionally, my friends ask me for some guidance as to developing training programs, and I have helped create a few now based on what I have learned for myself.





Last year, I started getting log books printed; I have always used logs, either a notebook or some printed out sheets kept in a folder, to track my progress from year to year and to quantify what seems to work and what doesn’t. Eventually, I found that the printed books, while costing a bit more, seem to keep me more motivated. For whatever reason, having a nice-looking, professionally printed, dedicated logbook makes me take my training more seriously; I feel like I am less likely to skip workouts, to shirk on my training. I am sure if I looked into it, there would be some research to corroborate my personal experiences with this. After all, appearances, for better or for worse, do matter to a degree. Just look at job interviews.





I have also made some logbooks to match programs I have made for friends. These same friends have been telling me lately that I should try and sell them. To be honest, I am not entirely comfortable with the idea, though I do see their point. With that in mind, I have decided to take something of a middle way. Below is an adjusted version of a training program that I used a last year (I don’t like to give out the programs I currently use because I usually try new things and would prefer to see their results before recommending them to anyone) and that I had some success with. Included is the overall schedule, the individual workouts, and a description of the timing parameters and exercises used. I think that this program would be useful for pretty much anyone new to training, though I would qualify that statement by saying that this is probably most useful for people who climb regularly in the v5-v9 range and want to jump to their next, personal level. It can also be easily adapted to fit a variety of schedules; what I have here presumes a Monday-Friday work week. It can also be adapted to sport climbing by shortening Strength and Power and by adding a Power Endurance Phase (if anyone is interested in this, shoot me a message and I can help/make that version).





In conjunction with this program, I have made a logbook that includes all this information and the corresponding log that you can write in and fill out as you go, keeping notes as you see fit. If you would like one of these, click on the “ Training Logs ” page above (or on the embedded link right there), next to the “About” page, where you fill find a link to where you can buy one. That said, if you don’t want to pay, it would not be too hard to take the information below and make your own log or to just use a notebook.





It goes without saying that anyone that decides to try this program is solely responsible for their own body and injury prevention. Have fun, but be careful!

I hope you find the information below useful! Get some!



Note: I just noticed an error; the last three weeks of power have P-6 on Saturdays, but it should be OC. Note: I just noticed an error; the last three weeks of power have P-6 on Saturdays, but it should be OC.









Schedule

Strength and Fitness: 6 weeks

Week Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday S-1/OC C/C S-2 C/C S-3 Rest OC S-1/OC C/C S-2 C/C S-3 Rest OC S-1/OC C/C S-2 C/C S-3 Rest OC S-1/OC C/C S-2 C/C S-3 Rest OC S-1/OC C/C S-2 C/C S-3 Rest OC OC C/C GC C/C Rest Rest OC





OC = Outdoor Climbing C/C = Core and Cardio GC = Gym Climbing





S-1

Warm up (20 minutes) 1.Warm up (20 minutes)

Lifting (40 minutes) 2.Lifting (40 minutes)

Full Body (x 3 each) a.Full Body (x 3 each)

Low Weight High Rep b.Low Weight High Rep

Core (15 minutes) 3.Core (15 minutes)

Cardio (30 Minutes) 4.Cardio (30 Minutes)





S-2

Warm up (30 minutes) 1.Warm up (30 minutes)

Hang Board (30 minutes) 2.Hang Board (30 minutes)

Repeaters x 8 (Pockets, Back Three, Front Three, Four Finger x 2 each) a.Repeaters x 8 (Pockets, Back Three, Front Three, Four Finger x 2 each)

Pull Up Drills (25 minutes) 3.Pull Up Drills (25 minutes)

90 Degree Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes) a.90 Degree Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes)

Full Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes) b.Full Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes)

Lat Pulls x 2 (8 minutes) c.Lat Pulls x 2 (8 minutes)

Climbing Drills (40 minutes) 4.Climbing Drills (40 minutes)

Hover Drill x 5 (4 minutes each) a.Hover Drill x 5 (4 minutes each)

Hang Arounds x 5 (4 minutes each) b.Hang Arounds x 5 (4 minutes each)

Core (15 minutes) 5.Core (15 minutes)

6 Exercise Rotation x 3 (15 minutes) a.6 Exercise Rotation x 3 (15 minutes)

Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes) 6.Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes)





S-3

Warm up (30 minutes) 1.Warm up (30 minutes)

Hang Board (30 minutes) 2.Hang Board (30 minutes)

Repeaters x 8 (Pockets, Back Three, Front Three, Four Finger x 2 each) a.Repeaters x 8 (Pockets, Back Three, Front Three, Four Finger x 2 each)

Pull Up Drills (25 minutes) 3.Pull Up Drills (25 minutes)

90 Degree Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes) a.90 Degree Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes)

Full Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes) b.Full Typewriter Locks x 2 each (8 minutes)

Lat Pulls x 2 (8 minutes) c.Lat Pulls x 2 (8 minutes)

V-Max (40 minutes) 4.V-Max (40 minutes)

Core (15 minutes) 5.Core (15 minutes)

6 Exercise Rotation x 3 (15 minutes) a.6 Exercise Rotation x 3 (15 minutes)

Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes) 6.Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes)





Power: 6 weeks

Week Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday S-1/OC Rest P-1 Rest P-2 Rest OC S-1/OC Rest P-1 Rest P-2 Rest OC S-1/OC Rest P-1 Rest P-2 Rest OC S-1/OC Rest P-1 Rest P-2 Rest P-6 S-1/OC Rest P-1 Rest P-2 Rest P-6 OC Rest GC Rest Rest Rest P-6









S-1

Warm up (20 minutes) 1.Warm up (20 minutes)

Lifting (40 minutes) 2.Lifting (40 minutes)

Full Body (x 3 each) a.Full Body (x 3 each)

Low Weight High Rep b.Low Weight High Rep

Core (15 minutes) 3.Core (15 minutes)

Cardio (30 Minutes) 4.Cardio (30 Minutes)





P-1

Warm up (30 minutes) 1.Warm up (30 minutes)

Campus Board (50 minutes) 2.Campus Board (50 minutes)

Ladders Large x 2 (10 minutes) a.Ladders Large x 2 (10 minutes)

Ladders Medium x 2 each (10 minutes) b.Ladders Medium x 2 each (10 minutes)

Doubles Large x 2 (10 minutes) c.Doubles Large x 2 (10 minutes)

Max Ladder Large x 2 each (10 minutes) d.Max Ladder Large x 2 each (10 minutes)

Max Throw Large x 2 each (10 minutes) e.Max Throw Large x 2 each (10 minutes)

V-Max (40 minutes) 3.V-Max (40 minutes)

Core (15 minutes) 4.Core (15 minutes)

6 Exercise Rotation x 3 a.6 Exercise Rotation x 3

Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes) 5.Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes)





P- 2

Warm up (30 minutes) 1.Warm up (30 minutes)

Campus Board (40 minutes) 2.Campus Board (40 minutes)

Ladder Large x 2 (10 minutes) a.Ladder Large x 2 (10 minutes)

Max Ladder Large x 2 (10 minutes) b.Max Ladder Large x 2 (10 minutes)

Max Throw Large x 2 (10 minutes) c.Max Throw Large x 2 (10 minutes)

Up Downs Large x 2 (10 minutes) d.Up Downs Large x 2 (10 minutes)

V-Max (30 minutes) 3.V-Max (30 minutes)

Dynamic Climbing (30 minutes) 4.Dynamic Climbing (30 minutes)

Core (15 minutes) 5.Core (15 minutes)

6 Exercise Rotation x 3 (15 minutes) a.6 Exercise Rotation x 3 (15 minutes)

Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes) 6.Cool Down Stretch (10 minutes)









Appendix





Timing

Exercises are timed according to how long it should take to complete all reps and sets. For example:





90 Degree Locks x 2 each (10 minutes) 1.90 Degree Locks x 2 each (10 minutes)





This means that you will complete this part of the workout in 10 minutes total. Since you are doing each arm twice, and since the unused arm is completely at rest, break the time into 2 five-minute increments. Start timer, do your lock off with both arms, and then rest for the remaining time. Repeat.





For exercises that require a leading arm, such as campusing, in which one arm is dominant but the other is still used, break allotted time according to number of sets. For example:





Mad Ladder Large x 2 (10 minutes) 1.Mad Ladder Large x 2 (10 minutes)





As this will involve using both arms for each exercise, you want to have some rest. Since there are four sets, 2 for each leading arm, break the time into four 2.5-minute increments. Start timer, do max ladder leading with one arm, rest for remaining time, and repeat for each set.





Exercise Descriptions





Strength:





Repeaters: For this exercise, you will be using 4 finger combinations: 2-finger Pockets, Back Three (Middle, Ring, Pinkie), Front Three (Index, Middle, Ring), and All Four. Start with hardest and work to easiest. You will use each combination twice, first on a small hold and second on a larger hold. To execute, pull on and hold as long as you can, then come off and count to five. Repeat this until you have done 5 reps. Rest a minute and move to next finger combination. 1.Repeaters: For this exercise, you will be using 4 finger combinations: 2-finger Pockets, Back Three (Middle, Ring, Pinkie), Front Three (Index, Middle, Ring), and All Four. Start with hardest and work to easiest. You will use each combination twice, first on a small hold and second on a larger hold. To execute, pull on and hold as long as you can, then come off and count to five. Repeat this until you have done 5 reps. Rest a minute and move to next finger combination.

Note: If you can hold a grip for more than ten seconds on the first rep, add weight. a.Note: If you can hold a grip for more than ten seconds on the first rep, add weight.

90 Degree Typewriter Locks: For this exercise, use rings. Pull up until elbows are bent at a 90 degree angle. Shift your weight to one arm by straightening the other out to the side and hold for 5 seconds (or longer). Then, shift weight to other arm in the same manner and hold. Repeat until failure. 2.90 Degree Typewriter Locks: For this exercise, use rings. Pull up until elbows are bent at a 90 degree angle. Shift your weight to one arm by straightening the other out to the side and hold for 5 seconds (or longer). Then, shift weight to other arm in the same manner and hold. Repeat until failure.

Note: To work into this, use a band but putting the ends under your hand on the ring so that a loop hangs down. Put your knee/foot into this loop to take some weight off. a.Note: To work into this, use a band but putting the ends under your hand on the ring so that a loop hangs down. Put your knee/foot into this loop to take some weight off.

Full Typewriter Locks: Same as above, but instead of holding arm at 90 degrees, hold with your chin above your hand. 3.Full Typewriter Locks: Same as above, but instead of holding arm at 90 degrees, hold with your chin above your hand.

Lat Pulls: Set a ring up so that, when hanging from it with your heels on the ground out in front of you, your back is only a few feet off the ground. Put heels apart, bridge back until your legs and torso are in line, and pull your hand to your chest, reaching as high as you can with the other hand. 4.Lat Pulls: Set a ring up so that, when hanging from it with your heels on the ground out in front of you, your back is only a few feet off the ground. Put heels apart, bridge back until your legs and torso are in line, and pull your hand to your chest, reaching as high as you can with the other hand.

Note: The lower your back is to the ground, the more difficult this exercise is. a.Note: The lower your back is to the ground, the more difficult this exercise is.

Hover Drill: Pick a climb well within your grade. Climb it, but before touching any next hold, pause with you hand hovering above the hold for a breath or two. 5.Hover Drill: Pick a climb well within your grade. Climb it, but before touching any next hold, pause with you hand hovering above the hold for a breath or two.

Hang Arounds: Pick a climb well within your grade. Climb it, but for every hand move cut feet entirely and then put them back on. Works best on steeper climbs. 6.Hang Arounds: Pick a climb well within your grade. Climb it, but for every hand move cut feet entirely and then put them back on. Works best on steeper climbs.

Hypergravity Bouldering: Boulder with weight vest. 7.Hypergravity Bouldering: Boulder with weight vest.

Note: Be careful! Start with 10 lbs, and do not go above 20 lbs. I never go over 10. a.Note: Be careful! Start with 10 lbs, and do not go above 20 lbs. I never go over 10.





Power:





Ladders: Climb the campus board without feet using all the rungs, without matching. 1.Ladders: Climb the campus board without feet using all the rungs, without matching.

Doubles: Climb the campus board by moving both hands, at the same time (dyno-style), from rung to rung. 2.Doubles: Climb the campus board by moving both hands, at the same time (dyno-style), from rung to rung.

Max Ladder: Start matched on low rung. Pull with lead hand to chosen rung, then pull lower hand up above that hand as far as possible without matching. Match top hand to finish. No feet. 3.Max Ladder: Start matched on low rung. Pull with lead hand to chosen rung, then pull lower hand up above that hand as far as possible without matching. Match top hand to finish. No feet.

Max Throw: Start matched on low rung. Throw as far as you can with leading hand. Match to finish. No feet. 4.Max Throw: Start matched on low rung. Throw as far as you can with leading hand. Match to finish. No feet.

Up Downs: Start with hands matched in middle of board. Drop a rung with both hands, and then as quickly as possible campus back up to starting rung with both hands. Repeat to failure. No feet. 5.Up Downs: Start with hands matched in middle of board. Drop a rung with both hands, and then as quickly as possible campus back up to starting rung with both hands. Repeat to failure. No feet.

V-Max: Bouldering session, focusing on projects climbs at or above grade. 6.V-Max: Bouldering session, focusing on projects climbs at or above grade.

Dynamic Climbing: Bouldering session, focusing on dynamic movements. 7.Dynamic Climbing: Bouldering session, focusing on dynamic movements.





Core:





For core, you can basically do anything; it will all help. The following is a description of a core rotation:





Using a timer on your phone (Tabata timer apps work well), set up 18 intervals of 30 seconds each with no rest in between. 1.Using a timer on your phone (Tabata timer apps work well), set up 18 intervals of 30 seconds each with no rest in between.

Choose any 6 ab exercises. 2.Choose any 6 ab exercises.

Exercises that are easy to move into and out of work best. a.Exercises that are easy to move into and out of work best.

Look online for ideas for specific exercises. b.Look online for ideas for specific exercises.