London fashion week used to be about edgy clothes, brand new designers and how many teenage celebrities a designer could persuade to sit in their front row. But the industry is changing. Smart designers are responding to a sea change in attitudes and are at last realising that having a conscience counts for almost as much as having a celebrity presence.

Today, for the first time ever, the British Fashion Council cleared a slot on its official schedule to host a sustainable catwalk show. Until now ethical fashion has existed on the fringes of London fashion week but this season it has been given equal status to international acclaimed designers such as Burberry and Christopher Kane.

The open air event was held in the grounds of Clarence House and provided a showcase for both established designers – including Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood – and newer smaller labels such as Junky Styling and People Tree – the label known for its collaborations with celebrities such as Emma Watson and Sienna Miller. Although both McCartney and Westwood will host their own catwalk shows at a later date in Paris and London respectively, the headline billing of these international heavyweight names added substantial influence to the event.

The show was held in partnership with START an initiative by The Prince's Charities Foundation to promote and celebrate sustainable living. The catwalk was part of A Garden Party to Make A Difference – a festival held at the palace. Unusually for a catwalk event members of the public were also invited, adding an element of informality to proceedings.

On the catwalk vintage denim sundresses had a 70s feel, retro tracksuits were re-imagined into sporty mini-dresses, logoed T-shirts and silky cocktail frocks all served to complete a classic summer wardrobe. Ring-pull clutch bags and denim shoulder bags with chain handles completed the look. Seated at front row the model Laura Bailey described the show as "a tease. It makes you want to see more of each label really."

Today's catwalk underlines the British Fashion Council's commitment to bringing sustainable fashion within its main umbrella. In the past eco events have been seen as something running in tandem with, but separate to the main designer event, but the START catwalk was a significant move towards raising the standing of sustainable fashion.

London fashion week already hosts Esthetica, a static exhibition which showcases cutting edge designers committed to working eco-sustainably. The initiative was launched four years ago with 13 designers and is now in its ninth season hosting 37 designers who have been selected for both their ethical credentials and design excellence.

Despite this attempt to raise the profile of sustainable fashion, the BFC acknowledges that there is still a way to go. Earlier in the week it launched The Value Of Fashion Report which it presented to the government. The report estimated that the fashion industry was worth indirectly £37bn to the UK economy. But it also highlighted the fact that the issue of sustainability was one of the more pressing challenges facing the industry over the next few years.

On Thursday this week, Miriam González Durántez, international trade lawyer and wife of deputy prime minister Nick Clegg added her name to the list of supporters of green fashion at the launch of EcoLuxe, a second sustainable fashion event. She acknowledged that ethical fashion was still not getting the attention it should within the industry. She said: "If you look at the figures it is rather shocking the percentages of sustainable fashion in relation to the whole fashion industry in the UK. But it is growing – which is a good thing."

Chloe Kerman, Fashion Editor of style magazine TANK, who styled the show also admitted that ethical fashion still had some way to go to achieve proper traction within the industry.

She said: "Sustainable fashion is very much in a transition. As people begin to consider their social responsibility as consumers, designers are really starting to consider this philosophy as part of their process." She also pointed to the range of talent on the catwalk and commented that the catwalks showed "how stunning ethical clothing can be".

Before the show, Erin O'Connor, who modelled today commented that the zeitgeist was turning in favour of sustainability at fashion week: "Merging style and conscience has never been so important and valued at London fashion week. I'm proud [to model] for designers who have crafted their talent and considered the true ethical values in the creative design process."