Charismatic St Davids (yes, it has dropped the apostrophe from its name) is Britain's smallest city, its enduring appeal ensured by the magnificent 12th-century cathedral that marks Wales' holiest site. The birthplace and burial place of the nation's patron saint, St Davids has been a pilgrimage site for 1500 years.

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The setting itself has a mystical presence. The sea is just beyond the horizon on three sides, so you're constantly surprised by glimpses of it at the ends of streets. Then there are those strangely shaped hills in the distance, sprouting from an ancient landscape.

Today St Davids attracts hordes of nonreligious pilgrims, too, drawn by the town's laid-back vibe, good sights and eating, and the excellent hiking, surfing and wildlife-watching in the surrounding area.

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