The man behind that movement was Chris Danielson. Not only is Chris the chairman of the USAC Routesetting Committee, the National Climbing Gym Rep for GTHI, and the founder of THREAD Climbing Wall Consultation, but he is the absolute go-to guy for any big comp or gym consulting project. In my research about Chris, I found several instances of other professional setters naming him as their hero and inspiration. In short, the guy is talented.

As Chris represents several companies, including E-Grips, Teknik, So Ill, PMI, Trango, Moon Climbing, and Five Ten, and is constantly shuttling around the country to teach setting clinics and help gyms get opened up, his time is limited. When I asked him if I could ask a few questions, I expected to queue up in line and wait a while. Surprisingly, the answers came back lighting fast, and much more in depth than I could have hoped. I think Chris just really loves to talk setting.

Before we get started, let me tell you where the questions arose from. I've been in the gym too many days lately, several of them setting a problem. Yes, one single problem. It's about 30 moves long, uses small holds, and hovers right around 14a. I wanted it to be perfect, so there's been endless tweaking. It still may not be finished. The idea is to have a problem that can carry me through my maximum recruitment phase and that I might have an outside chance at sending by the time I'm wrapping up AE.