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It’s not water into wine, but close enough. By stimulating certain nerve cells in the brains of mice, scientists made plain water taste sweet or bitter. The results show that the brain — not the tongue — is the ultimate tastemaker.

Columbia University neuroscientist Charles Zuker and colleagues took aim at a part of the mouse brain called the gustatory cortex. There, the nerve cells responsible for sensing bitter lie about two millimeters from those that sense sweet. Researchers tweaked these groups of cells so they would spring into action when light hit them.

When the sweet-sensing nerve cells were stimulated with a laser, mice eagerly lapped up plain water, even though the mice were plenty hydrated. And when the bitter-sensing cells were stimulated, the mice