Before You Begin

The Process

1. Preparation

As with any shave, you need to soften the skin and open the pores before using a straight razor. If it’s your first time with a straight razor, then you certainly need to prepare the skin properly to avoid serious burn. Jump in the hot shower, which will also soften the hairs and allow for a smoother shave. Then apply a pre-shave oil to condition the skin, followed by a transparent shave gel. 2. The Hold

Rivera suggests holding the razor at 30-degree angle from the face. “If you hold the razor too flat it will tear the stubble,” he says. “And if held too steep, it will cut the skin.” Keep the grip firm, adjusting as necessary for the different parts of the face, like the upper lip and chin. The real key is to pull the skin taut with your other hand (or by stretching the neck), and applying gentle pressure with the blade. This will prevent you from cutting both the face and fingers. The blade is sharp; trust that it’ll do its job, less you want a Sweeney Todd situation on your hands. 3. The First Strokes

Pick one side of the face, and start at the sideburn, moving downward. “Take the first stroke at a downward slant, from the top of the cheek near the ear,” says Rivera. “The stroke should be short and even and move without jerks or chopping.” After each short stroke, rinse the blade in hot water and continue. Rivera says not to pull or drag the razor, and reiterates that the skin needs to stay taut. 4. The Chin and Upper Lip

Lift the razor slightly as you approach the chin, and use the middle of the blade. “Never begin a fresh stroke on a prominent part of your face, such as the chin or jawbone,” Rivera says. “Begin a little away from these places, and work over them with [gentler], steady strokes.” You can approach the two sides of the upper lip as you would the cheeks, with short, steady strokes. Pull the opposite side of the lip taut, however, to flatten the skin. “Leave the center of the lip, though,” says Rivera. “Do it separately by holding the nose up slightly, to tighten the skin.” 5. The Lower Lip and Neck

Practice adjusting your mouth so that the skin of your lower lip is widened and tightened. Take the first strokes from the corner of your mouth, across the skin to the center of your chin. You can then shave any remaining hairs with short upward strokes; start from the top of the chin, and let the razor follow the contours beneath your lips. Be especially careful on the neck, both to avoid cuts and to minimize irritation. “Follow the grain of the hair in the neck,” says Rivera. “This pattern will differ from person to person dependent on hair growth.” Keep your strokes short and steady. 6. Repeat

It’s likely you will have to do a second pass, spot checking for any missed patches. Rivera suggests shaving against or across the grain on the face during this second round. But, remember to re-lather your face with shaving cream or gel, after a hot splash of water on the skin. “Never take a stroke without shaving cream to cushion and protect the skin,” Rivera stresses. 7. Moisturize

Immediately after shaving, splash some cold water on the skin to tighten the pores. Apply a post-shave balm or moisturizer to the skin, patting it in instead of massaging it. Any rubbing might cause irritation.