First Draught: Saying farewell to winter with Forked River’s Russian Imperial Stout

Flavours of chocolate, coffee and whiskey barrel are supported by a light creamy mouthfeel.

By David Ort

Forked River Brewing's Weendigo is very dark brown with a large mocha cap with flavours of chocolate, coffee and whiskey barrel are supported by a light creamy mouthfeel. Image: David Ort

For a weekly beer columnist the temptation is strong to check in with the weather on a regular basis. There are other interesting forces that effect what beer we drink, but none is as consistently relevant. I drink most summer beers (except maybe goses) all year, but as soon as the thermometer stays consistently above freezing, the imperial stouts get put away for another eight months or so.

With that in mind, consider today's focus on the Forked River Weendigo, a barrel-aged take on that style, my official sayonara to Jack Frost. This is the last time you'll read me extolling the complexity created when dark roasted malts meet ten points of alcohol until November rolls around.

In a wide-bowled snifter Weendigo is very dark brown with a large mocha cap. Molasses, heavily roasted malt and dark fruit all make an appearance on the nose. Flavours of chocolate, coffee and whiskey barrel are supported by a light creamy mouthfeel. This is definitely a contemplative sipper.

I haven't had the opportunity to taste through the brewery's whole catalogue, but I'm told, by knowledgeable sources that they make some very good boundary-pushing options, including sours. That's definitely appreciated (Ontario breweries, please make more of these) but Forked River does seem to lose focus when it comes to more workmanlike styles. For instance, their Riptide Rye Pale Ale (also at the LCBO right now) fell flat for me.

Forked River Weendigo Russian Imperial Stout, $8.95 for a 500 ml bottle, LCBO #406199