First Draught: Hockley Valley Dark is the only local craft beer at the Rogers Centre

By David Ort

Hockley Valley Dark by the Orangeville brewery is the only Ontario craft beer at Rogers Centre this season. Image: David Ort

Last year, the Blue Jays caught a mountain of bad publicity when they decided to give Steamwhistle the boot in favour of granting (potentially illegal) exclusivity to beers made by AB InBev. The uproar inspired a petition and possibly led to a very slight change in direction this year.

In 2015 there will be 24 beers made by AB InBev or Sapporo-owned breweries; one gluten-free, beer-like drink by an Ontario brewery; and Hockley Valley’s Dark ale.

This brown ale leans into stout and porter territory. It’s nearly black and topped by a moderate, tan foam. Sweet caramel, dark bread and molasses dominate the aroma notes and a hint of licorice and citrusy hops come out on the palate.

I wouldn’t object to Hockley Dark as a companion for a grilled burger, but it’s tough to see how this makes sense for the Dome. Better to offer a selection from Toronto’s baseball-themed brewers (Left Field), the two-time Canadian brewery of the year (Great Lakes), or the aforementioned next-door neighbour on Bremner (Steamwhistle).

If all of this isn’t enough to demonstrate this gesture’s emptiness, consider the price. A tall can of “ice cold” Hockley Dark will run you an eye-watering $11.50 — that’s more than four times the LCBO price.

Around this time last year I put together a guide to the best craft beer spots near the Rogers Centre. And despite the addition of Hockley Dark your best option is still a few pints at Bar Hop before a quick walk down Blue Jays Way in time to catch the final “guard for thee.”

Hockley Valley Brewing Co.’s Dark, $2.75 for a 473 ml can, LCBO #34660